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Аннотация: The woman's book Publication date 1911

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE

WOMAN'S

BOOK

CONTAINS EVERYTHING A

WOMAN OUGHT TO KNOW

EDITED BY FLORENCE B. JACK, LATE

PRINCIPAL OF THE SCHOOL OF THE

DOMESTIC ARTS, EDINBURGH, AND

RITA STRAUSS, ASSISTED BY MANY

EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS

LONDON: T. C. & E. C. JACK

16 HENRIETTA STREET, W.C. : AND EDINBURGH

1911

^otx^

. f\t

PREFACE

We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before tbe Woman's

Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have

attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and

not a few mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-

standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-

fully to new editions being called for, when any suggestions and corrections

sent us can be effected.

We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects

of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied

a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book

as a whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.

Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.

We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter

for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened

for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity

for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the

work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or

by women.

It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past

have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for

certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the

educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's

work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - caUed forth faculties

of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible

book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the

ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In

writing it we have discovered afresh that the quahties that are demanded of a

field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary

quaUfications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,

tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling

the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not

common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon

^0%^^

PREFACE

We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before the Woman's

Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have

attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and

not a feAV mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-

standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-

fully to new editions being caUed for, when any suggestions and corrections

sent us can be effected.

We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects

of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied

a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book

as ia whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.

Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.

We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter

for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened

for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity

for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the

work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or

by women.

It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past

have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for

certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the

educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's

work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - called forth faculties

of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible

book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the

ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In

writing it we have discovered afresh that the qualities that are demanded of a

field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary

qualifications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,

tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling

the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not

common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon

vi PREFACE

a woman. Patience, wisdom, self-sacrifice are called for at every hour of the

day. Morally as well as intellectually the domestic woman's life is rich in

opportunity.

While, however, we cannot appreciate too highly the value of the work

done by the domestic woman, it is absurd to regard that as woman's only sphere.

Many have not the opportunity of such a life : many have not the aptitude

for it. We have therefore endeavoured to take the widest possible view of

Woman's sphere. Everything she can do well, that she is entitled to have

the opportunity of domg. We hope that the information given in the volume

about the various kinds of work now open to women, and the various agencies

at work to quaUfy women for the work they can do, will be found useful ; and

we hope, too, that the manner in which we have presented the domestic informa-

tion may lead to a higher standard of attainment in woman's greatest industry

- the home.

F. B. J,

R. S.

London,

A-pril 1911.

LIST OF CONTENTS

PAOE

The House - Choice, Construction, Fittings .... 1

Mistress and Servants 41

Guide to Household Work 58

Food and the Kitchen 87

Guide to Cookery 116

The Table 236

Household Linen 257

Guide to Laundry Work . . . . . . .271

Dress - its Choice and Care 301

Etiquette and Social Guide 325

Management of Money and Legal Guide . , . . 362

Plain Sewing and Mending 387

Home Dressmaking 419

Home Millinery 432

Health and the Toilet 447

The Child 466

Holidays and Travel . 498

Home Pets 507

Poultry-Keeping 517

Recreations 524

Home Nursing and " First Aid " 548

Home Gardening 580

Household Repairs and Upholstery 604

Careers for Women 615

Literary and Secretarial Work 62b

Medicine and Nursing 633

Women in Horticulture and in Agriculture . . . 647

Domestic Science 658

Women in Business 665

Civil Service and Public Work 678

Arts and Crafts 682

Social and Philanthropic Work 691

Women in Politics 696

Miscellaneous Facts and Figures 699

vii

SOME OF THE CONTRIBUTORS

MRS. BERNARD MOLE, Principal, St. Mary's Nursery College, Hamp-

stead,

MISS FEDDEN, Principal, St. Martha's College of Housecraft, London.

MISS MAUD COOKES, Head Teacher, Dressmaking and Millinery,

National Training School of Cookery, London.

MISS ALICE LEMON, M.R.B.W.A.

MISS MARGARET E. BUCHANAN, Ph. Chem., M.P.S., President of

the Association of Women Pharmacists.

MISS K. M. COURTAULD, Principal of Colne Engaine Farm, Earl's

Colne, Essex.

MISS N. EDWARDS, President of the Ladies' Poultry Club and

Principal of Coaley Poultry Farm, Gloucestershire.

MISS BERTHA LA MOTHE, Teacher of and Lecturer on "Bee-

keeping."

viil

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE HOUSE

THEK. is nothing that requires more careful -nsideration than the^^^^^^^^^

qXt^^Stur-t^^^^^^^^^^^^

never a thought to position, site, aspect ventilat3 ox. samtary a^ange..ente^ ^^

purse.

First Considerations.- The first point for the

would-be householder to consider is what rent

can be afforded, or, if she wislies to Purchase

the house, what sum can be devoted to this

purpose. She should be as exact as possible m

her calculations before she makes up her mmd

whether to buy or rent a dwelhng Bates and

taxes have to be considered m both cases. The

purchase money, it must be remembered, repre-

sents money which otherwise ^vested would

have brought in a yeaily rate of interest. Ihe

loss of this yearly interest must be reckoned as

equivalent to annual out-of-pocket expenditure,

aided to which must be the cost of upkeep

and repairs, and those taxes which, m the case

of a house let on lease, are paid by the landlord,

not to speak of the many other expenses which

the ownership of house property involves.

K it is proposed to lease a house there are

several points wliich Would increase or decrease

the expenditure as the case may be. If it is

taken on a repairing lease, the tenant wiU have

to see to all repairs both inside and out. _ itos

will amount to not a little expenditure in the

course of the year, and therefore repairing leases

should be avoided where possible. In London,

however, and many other large towns most ot

the houses are let upon repau-mg leases. _ In

these ch-cumstances it is more than ever im-

portant that the house be in thorough condition

and repair before the new tenant takes pos-

session.

In some leases a stipulation is made that the

landlord will attend to aU outside repairs, whilst

a tenant wiU be held responsible for inside re-

pairs ; but the ideal arrangement is undoubtedly

that in which the landlord undertakes to do oM

repairs, even though the rent may be a httle

higher in consequence. There are many im-

portant legal points involved in the drawing up

of a lease or a deed of purchase (see Law of

Landlord and Tenant, p. 379). It is always

advisable, therefore, for the would-be house-

holder to secure the service of a good and

reUable house agent to act for her m the trans-

action. She might also find it expedient to

consult her lawyer.

A small amount expended upon agent s and

lawver's fees has often been the means of saving

large sums of money, and it is worse than folly

for the householder without any elementary

knowledge of the law in regard to landlord and

tenant, or of the intricacies of a contract of sale

to We to cope with the legal teclmicahties

invoh^d in a purchase or lease without any

advice. Even if she does possess some know-

Tedge of the law, it is better for her to have

expert advice; often flaws are found in leases

or agreements which only a trained legal mind

can detect, and it is always better to be on the

safe side in these matters. (See Agents Fees,

^'i?f ^regard to the purchase of a house, this

may often be done tlirough the medium of a

THE WOIMAN'S BOOK

good " Bxiilding Society." A Building Society

advances to its members loans for the purpose

of acquiring houses, or of ewjquiring land for

building purposes. In return for the loan, the

house or land so acquired is mortgaged to the

Society. \Mion the loan is repaid, the house

becomes tho absolute property of the member.

The fund out of wliich the Society grants the

loans is provided by the subscription of the

members themselves.

Locality. - Hax-ing calculated to the nearest

figure the sum of money she is justified in

spending, or the annual amount for rent, rates,

smd taxes wliich she can afford to allot out of

her yesu-ly income, the householder must con-

sider in what locality she is most likely to obtain

a house wliich will best meet •w-ith her require-

ments. If members of the family have to go

into the city daily, then the residence should

be one from wliich the city is of easy access.

House rents in towns are higher than in

the suburbs, but where a residence in the

suburbs is selected, train and omnibus fares

will have to be added to the yearly ex-

penditure, so that in the long run the dif-

ference may not be so great. Very often in

some parts of a town rents will be found to be

on a cheaper scale than elsewhere, but this is

mostly the case in streets which do not bear

the best of reputations ; the character of the

locality should therefore be well inquired into

before deciding to profit by a seeming bargain

in the rental of a town house.

Where there is a family of cliildren, it is better

as a rule to choose a house in some accessible

suburb rather than in a town itself. In the

suburbs good roomy houses with gardens can be

had at quit" moderate rentals. Houses with

gsu'dens are rare in town, except at very high

rentals, whilst in many towns even a high rental

cannot secure the most minute amount of

garden space.

A suburb where there is a good train service

should be selected, and the house should be as

near as possible to the station. This last is of

the utmost importance. Some people, whilst

being careful to select an easily accessible spot

within twenty minutes' train joiuney of town,

choose a residence of about half-an-hour's walk

from the station. If they had chosen a home

nefir tho station in one of the more remote

suburbs, they would have been better off. The

time spent in going backwards and forwards

would have been the same, and the drawback

of the long walk to and from the house in

inclement weather would have been avoided.

Many of the smaller towns, it is true, combine

the advantages of town and suburban hfe in that

good dwelling-houses may be had with gardens

at fairly moderate rentals. These towns, how-

evfir, are not great centres of activity, and the

foregoing remarks must only apply, of coxirse,

to those cases where paterfamilias has to earn

liis Uvelihood in one of our large towns or

cities.

In many cases, it will be argued on behalf

of the cliildren, that educational faciUties in

towm are so much greater and cheaper than in

the suburbs or in the country. Nowadays, how-

ever, good educational establishments are to be

found everj'\\-horo, and in regard to specialised

subjects such as those included in cormnercial

training, many of the large town estabUshments

have opened branches in most parts of the

country. Then, again, if the suburb has been

selected with due regard to railway facihties,

cheap fares, &c., there is nothing easier than

to let the young people go into town for their

special lessons if necessary. In the selection

of a house, educational facihties for the cliildren

should never be overlooked, and for this reason

it is always better to inquire whether there are

good schools in the neighbourhood.

The same argument must prevail if the house

is selected in some country place. In many

c£ises, apart from all question of low rental, &c.,

the love of paterfamiUas for the country is so

great, that not aU the tedium and discomfort

of the long train journey twice daily will deter

liim from pitching his tent " far from the

madding crowd." If he is prepared to endure

the discomfort, well and good, but the welfare

of the cliildren from the point of view of educa-

tion must be considered, and for this reason

he should take care to be near some good

educational centre, unless the plan of sending

the children to a boarding-school is adopted.

If one decides to pitch one's tent in tho

co'ontry, care should be taken to find out if

there are one or two good reliable medical men

within easy distance. In case of illness, the

fact of having to send two or more miles for

medical aid may at times amount to actual

calamity. Such risks should therefore be

avoided. It is ad\nsable also that the house

should not be too far away from a village where

food and other commodities can be purchased.

The chief drawback to residence in the country

hes in the fact that up-to-date arrangements

in regard to sanitation, water supply, and light-

ing are not always to be found, and although

many charms are to be found in hfe in a country

cottage, there are also in many cases disadvan-

tages which will more than counterbalar .-o these

charms if great care and discrimination are

not exercised in the choice of both locality and

dwelling.

House versus Flat. - The comparative merits

of houses and flats as places of residence will ever

be a debatable subject. There is no doubt,

however, that as regards town life, for people

of moderate means, flats represent the minimum

amount of annual outlay. It is much easier

for a woman to regulate her expenditure when

she knows that the sums she pays yearly for

her flat will cover not only rent, but also rates

THE HOUSE

and taxes. As the latter usually amount to a

third of the rental, this is a most important con-

sideration. Then there is an old saying that

" a large house is a big tliief," and many a

weary householder, harassed at the thought

of high wages claimed by servants, large sums

spent in cleaning and keeping the house in

repair, has proved the truth of this old adage.

With a flat expenditure is kept within easy

bounds ; none of the thousand and one odd

expenses are Uable to crop up in veirious unex-

pected quarters as in the case of a house, and all

the rooms being on one floor, one's housework

is reduced to a minimum, and the amoiint spent

on servants' wages is correspondingly decreased.

There is also the additional advantage of

security, for one feels quite safe when leaving

for the annual holiday in locking up the flat

and placing the key in the care of the doorkeeper.

It can also be locked up during the daytime,

when one wishes to go out, without the necessity

of leaving any one in charge.

On the other hand, a flat nas many disad-

vantages as compared with a complete dwelling-

house. The rooms are small, in many cases

dark, the larder and cellar accommodation poor

- dress cupboards are generally conspicuous by

their absence, and in even the best and most

expensive of flats the servant's room, where

there is one, is little better than a cupboard in

size. Then, again, flats at the lower rentals are

always on the top or second top stories of a

building or else in the basement. In the case

cf the luxurious buildings which are let out in

flats at high rentals a lift will be provided, but

this is seldom the case in regard to the buildings

at which flats are let out at moderate rents. In

the absence of a lift there will be the weary

cUmb up high flights of stone steps before one

can reach one's dwelling, a disadvantage which

does much to counterbalance the advantage of

the rooms being On one floor. But even with

this disadvantage, top floor flats are preferable

to flats in the basement in regard to light and

ventilation.

In a flat it is impossible to maintain the same

degree of privacy as in a house. One's slumbers

are apt to be disturbed in the small hours of

the morning by the efforts of some conscientious

youngster laboriously practising five finger

exercises in the flat below, or else a " musical

evening " in the flat opposite continued far

into the night, though very enjoyable to those

whom it may concern, succeeds in robbing you

of those precious hours of " beauty sleep " wliich

you prize so highly. In case of contagious illness

olso the danger of infection is greater, as isola-

tion is more difficult.

On the whole, there are many things to be

said for and against flat life ; but it may be

taken as a general rule that for the young couple

beginning housekeeping on strictly limited

means, a flat is always best from the point of

view of keeping down expenditure ; whilst in

the case of a family of young children, flat life

is incompatible with comfort owing to the

hmited space available, and the very fact of all

the rooms being on one floor is in these cir-

cimistances a positive disadvantage.

Site and Soil. - Absence of damp is of the

utmost importance to health, and in tliis re-

spect a great deal will depend on the soil upon

which the house is built. A gravel soil or chalk

soil above the water level is best. A clay soil,

being non-porous, retains moisture and should

be avoided.

On the other hand, the position of the site is

an important factor in determining the advantage

or disadvantage of the soil upon which it is built.

Generally speaking, a house should never stand

low : it often happens that a house standing

on high ground, although built on clay soil, is

dryer than a low-lying dwelling situated in a

valley upon gravel soil. Trees are desirable,

if not too near the house, as they aid in drjnng

the soil, certain trees such as eucalyptus, plane,

and poplar being specially useful.

what is known as " made-up ground " is

about the worst soil upon which a house can be

built. The word " made " is true in its actual

sense, for the ground consists of holes and

hollows wliich have been Uterally filled up with

all sorts of rubbish and refuse to make a founda-

tion. The danger of building on such a soil,

which will in many cases be largely composed

of organic matter from which noxious gases

emanate- and force their way upwards, is ob\'ious.

Carefiil inquiry should therefore be made in

regard to this important question of soil before

selecting a dwelling.

Construction. - ^The absence of damp will also

depend to a great extent upon the construction

of the house, proper construction tending to

minimise many of the disadvantages of an

unsuitable soil. Houses built on clay soil should

be well raised above the ground level, and should

possess neither cellars nor basements. Houses

with basements must be very carefully con-

structed with the view of preventing the damp

from rising up the floor and lower walls. The

subsoil should be drained by means of subsoil

drain-pipes, which consist of short earthenware

pipes laid in trenches several feet below the

surface (see p. 4). To prevent dampness rising

through the floor of the basement, the floor

should be built upon a bed of concrete, wliilst to

prevent moisture from rising up the lower walls,

these should not only be constructed upon a

foundation of concrete, but what is known as a

" damp course " should be provided. A " damp

coiorse " consists of an impervious layer of

cement, slate, asphalt, or bitumen, wliich is

placed in the brick-work of the wall above the

ground level, but below the floor. Houses with

basements should always be separated fi-om

the street by an area.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

A great deal of the comfort and well-being

of the inhabitants of a house ^\-ill depend upon

the plan upon which it is built. Houses with

basements alwaj's entail work for servants in

going up and down stairs between the dining-

room and the kitchen. On the other hand, in

bouses where the kitchen and dining-room are

on one floor, care should be taken that the

kitchen is not situated in such close proximity

to the other rooms as to make the smell of

cooking go all over the house. The ideal plan is

to have the kitchen and pantry shut off from

the rest of the rooms on the first floor by a

one of the upper landings in addition to the bath-

room. There should in all cases be a housemaid's

pantry on one of the upper landings in which

she can keep pails and brushes.

Too much stress cannot be laid upon the

necessity of the house being thoroughly dry:

for this reason it is never vrise to take up resi-

dence too soon in a newly-built house, as the

walls are usually damp. Fires should be kept

burning in all the rooms for as long a period as

possible before going into a new house.

A httle wall-peeling and discoloration in the

case of a new house is almost unavoidable, but

nnn.

Illustration showing Concrete Foundation ol a House with Damp Course

and Drainage System.

A, House drain.

B. Concrete foundation.

C. Intercepting trap.

D, N. Gulleys.

F. Dry area.

G, H. Damp proof course.

K. AV.C.

L. Soil pipe.

O. Rainwater pipe.

P. Dath waate-water pipe.

R. Sink.

separate little passage and door, the passage

running between the kitchen and pantry, the

latter being placed at the back of the dining-

room, with a hatch, i.e. a small cupboard like

an aperture in the wall itself opening from

the pantry into the dining-room, through which

dishes may be passed to the servant waiting at

table. WTien not in use, this little cupboard

can be kept closed and will not be noticeable.

A lift from the kitchen to the dining-room whore

there is a basement is a very great help ; but

these are a.s a rule expensive to fit in and are

luxuries not within the reach of the many.

Plenty of cupboards are also desirable, including

a hot-air cupboard for the airing of linen. If

the house is a high one, water should be laid on

if, when looking over a house which has been

built for some time, the paper is seen to be

discoloured, this may be taken as a suio sign

of damp, and the house should be avoided. In

these cases a musty damp smell will almost

invariably be present ; a house of this kind

cannot possibly be healthy, and residence in

damp dwellings is a most proUfic cause of all

kinds of illness. Many a case of chronic rheu-

matism can be traced to residence in a damp

house. Care should also be taken to find out

if the roof is in good condition, as dampness in

the upper rooms may often be traced to some

defect in the roof, lliough for the purpose of

drainage of the soil it is well to have trees

near the house, they must not be too near, as

THE HOUSE

in this case they are liable to make it damp.

Ivy growing up the walls of the house, though

very pretty and decorative in appearance, is

also a cause of damp.

Aspect. - A house should also be carefully

selected in regard to its aspect. Generally

speaking, the front should face south-west or

south-east. The front bedrooms and sitting-

rooms will in this way catch the morning sun,

wliilst the back rooms will have the afternoon

sun. For this reason it is advisable to have as

many bedrooms in the front as possible. The

breakfast-room should also have a sunny aspect ;

where there is no breakfast-room, the dining-

room should be in the front of the house in

order that the cheering influence of the morning

sun may be enjoyed at breakfast, whilst the

drawing-room will do well in a position where

it receives the sunsliine in the afternoon. It is

not advisable, as a rule, to choose a house facing

due north ; the rooms will be dark through

absence of sunlight, and the house will be cold,

requiring a much greater degree of artificial

■warmth in winter to make it habitable than in

the case of a south-west or south-east aspect.

DRAINAGE

A house should not be purchased nor an

agreement for a lease entered into before the

ptirchaser or lessee is satisfied that the drainage

system is in thorough order. To make sure

of this, it is essential to take independent

expert ad\nce upon the subject and to have

the premises examined by a sanitary en-

gineer. FaiUng this, it would be advisable to

insist upon a written guarantee from the vendor

or landlord that the drains have been recently

tested and are in good condition. It is well,

however, to always have an independent opinion,

therefore the former plan is the better of the

two, and by adopting it the intending pur-

chaser or tenant procects himself from becoming

saddled with a house where insanitary con-

ditions prevail.

However well a house may be constructed

in regard to light and ventilation, if the drainage

is wrong, siclcness and disease will invariably

follow, and a Uttle trouble and expense in in-

vestigating this important matter in the first

instance will save no end of trouble and expense

in the long run.

The most usual system of drainage or disposal

of sewage prevaUiiig in towns and almost all but

remote country places is that known as the

" water-carriage system " by wliich all the

sewage is can-ied off underground in pipes called

drains. Tlie following drain-pipes are to be

found in the average house -

The sink pipe for taldng away water from the

sink; the water pipe for taking away the bath

water ; the soil pipe (discharging from the

water-closets), with its ventilating pipe carried

above the roof ; the outer drain pipe for carry-

ing off superfluous water.

These pipes all lead to the house drain which,

in its turn, is connected with the street sewer.

It is not only important that all drains

should be properly constructed, but also that

they be kept in good condition if the house

is to be health}'. To this end they should be

regularly examined and all defects put right

with the least delay possible.

Good drains should be ( 1 ) water-tight ; (2) well

ventilated ; (3) without direct connection be-

tween those carrj^ing sewage and those carry-

ing waste from baths, basins, and the Hke ; (4)

well flushed.

(1) In order to be water-tight, the drain-pipes

are best made of iron, but owing to the expense

this involves they are generally made of earthen-

ware. Long iron pipes with lead joints consti-

tute the most water-tight system invented so far.

The bed in wliich the pipes are laid must not be

Uable to sink, or the joints wiU give, even al-

though firmly cemented. For this purpose, care

must be taken not to sink the original trenches

deeper than is necessary, as any fiUing in with

fresh earth promotes consequent sagging.

(2) The ventilation must be very thorough,

or sewer gas wiU find its way into the house in

spite of the most careful traps to prevent it.

(3) The waste pipes from baths, &c., should

never open directly into the sewer, even although

the connection is guarded by a trap. They

should pour their water into an open receiver or

gully placed outside the house, and the gully

should be connected with the sewer. Then if

any sewer gas escapes from the gully, it will pass

off in the open air without being conducted into

the house. In the case of all pipes connection

with the sewer must be guarded by a trap.

Traps are devised to prevent the escape of

sewer gas from the drain into the house. Many

of the older traps had the drawback that they

allowed filth to accumulate in them. U- or

S-shaped traps are the ones now cliiefly used.

By having it of either shape, whenever the

drain is flushed some water is retained in

the bent part or trap, which then prevents the

passage of gas through this portion of the pipe.

The water used to flush the water-closet should

not come direct from the chief cistern, but from

a special small cistern, the water of which is

never used for drinking purposes. By tliis

means, if sewer gas passes into the small cistern,

it will be absorbed by the water in it with-

out passing on to the chief water-drinking

cistern.

(4) In order that a drain may be well flushed,

not only must an ample supply of water pass

down it, but the drain must be laid at such an

inchne that the flow is sufficiently rapid. It

must be fairly narrow and as straight as possible

for the same reason ; and, again, friction must

be reduced by making the internal surface

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

smooth. By these means the accumulation of

filth IS reduced to a minimum.

Testing the drains is done by plugging the

outlet of tlie suspectod drain at the nearest

manhole and tlien filling it with water from

the nearest water-closot. If a leak is present,

the water soon sinks, and if many leaks are

present, it may not be possible to fill the

drain at all. Suspected leaks may also be

tested by pouring down strong oil of pepper-

mint or assafetida in hot water, whilst a

second person in the room below determines

whetlier the odour escapes or not, but tliis

method is not so thorough as the former

test, thougli more easily performed by the

householder.

Tlie water-closet must bo of such a pattern

that it is always clean and efficiently trapped,

has no direct connection with the drinking-

water cistern, and is flushed by a special

cistern of its own which should hold from

two to tliree gallons. Tlie " wash-out " closet

and the " valve " closet are two of the best

patterns in use at present - a " hopper " closet

is conunonly used, and it is satisfactory if a

short hopper is used, but a long hopper is

to be condemned for its lack of cleanhness.

What is known as the " pan " closet is an

old form of closet which cannot bo too strongly

condemned. Tlie traps should be furnished

with anti-siphonage pipes to prevent them be-

coming unsealed. In well-built houses water-

closets are always separated from the other

portion of the house by a small passage, and

where there are two or three they are placed on

the different landings one above the other. In

properly constructed houses all places where

water is laid on, such as the bath-room, lava-

tories, hou36-maid's sinks, should come one over

the other on the various floors.

The Earth System. - In the country, where a

sufficient water-supply is not always available

for a complete water-borne system of drainage,

what is known as the " Earth " system is the

most sanitary to adopt. In this system earth

is used instead of water in the closet pails, and

the contents of the latter are buried at intervals

in the garden.

The principle of the earth system is founded on

the well-known power possessed by dry earth

of deodorising and disinfecting faecal matter -

a given quantity of earth, if applied in detail to

fresh excrement, destroying all smell and absorb-

ing all noxious vapours. Where sufficient earth

is not available, ashes should be used. Moule's

earth closets are amongst the best-known sanitary

appliances used in connection with this system.

Removal of Refuse. - All the dry refuse of a

house which does not come under the designa-

tion of " sewage," is removed by dustmen in

the employ of the local authorities at regular

intorv'-als. The most sanitary dustbins are made

of zinc. The dustbin should be kept closed to

keep out rain and damp, otherwise the contents

will quickly decompose, and noxious odours will

be the result. It should not be kept too near

the wall of the house, but sliould bo at least sis

feet away from it. Only dry refuse should be

placed in the dustbin. All vegetable matter,

such as potato peirings, &c., should be burnt if

noxious and unsanitary odours are to be avoided.

(See Kitchen Refuse, p. 94.)

WATER-SUPPLY

A pure and abundant water-supply is a

necessity in every house. Care must be taken,

therefore, to flnd out ( 1 ) if the supply is good ;

(2) if it is constant or intermittent; (3) if the

latter, whether the cisterns are adequate for the

storage of the water and Eire in good condition.

In regard to the purity of the water, this

should be ascertained by applying to the county

or borough analyst for an analysis. The usual

fee for this analysis is one guinea. As a rule the

water-supply in large towns is pure. When, as

in country districts, the water is derived from

wells, the utmost precautions should be taken.

All well water should be boiled before use,

as it is very liable to pollution. If a well is

shallow the risk of contamination is often con-

siderable. A well should be deep and have its

sides protected by some waterproof material

to prevent the surface water from entering it.

The best wells are those wliich are driven

tlirough the first impervious stratum so as to

tap the one lying below.

Filters are largely used for purifying water,

but a number of those in domestic use are not

so effective as is generally supposed. Many

stop some of the germs, which then flourish in

the substance of the filter and infect all subse-

quent water that passes through. Hence puri-

fication of the water by boiling is a much safer

method. Among the more reliable filters are

the Pasteur-Chamberland and the Berkefeld.

In the Peisteur-Chamberland filter the water

passes tlirough a thick-walled unglazed earthen-

ware tube, which stops germs. It has been

recommended to clean this by brushing the

outside with a stiff brush ; as, however, the

germs are not only outside but probably also

distributed tlirough the substance of the porce-

lain, to be thoroughly cleansed it should be

boiled or a new tube substituted. All filters

require thorough and constant cleansing if they

are to be effective. A dirty filter will do more

harm than good.

In most towns there is now what is called a

" constant water-supply.'" The constant supply

system renders cisterns for the storage of water

unnecessary, excepting in connection with the

hot-water supply. Where there is what is known

as an " intermittent supply " tlie water is

turned off for a certain time each day. In these

circumstances the intending householder should

THE HOUSE

find out if the cisterns are large enough for the

adequate storage of the water during those

hours in which the supply is cut oS, and also

if the cisterns are clean and in thoroughly good

condition. Cisterns shoxild never under any

circumstances be left uncovered, but should be

provided with a well-fitting Ud. No house

should be taken until it has been ascertained that

all cisterns have been thoroughly cleaned by

the plumber. This cleaning should be repeated

at regular intervals. Tlie cisterns should be

made of galvanised iron. An overflow pipe

should be provided for any overflow of water

that might arise ; tliis pipe should discharge

into the open air and never into a soil pipe or

drain, or pollution of the water by sewage gases

is likely to result. Cisterns from which drinking

Water is drawn shoidd be as far as possible from

water-closets and drains. The simple precaution

of letting the water run a Uttle before drawing it

in the morning for drinking purposes should

always be taken, as it should be remembered

that the water has been stationary in the pipes

all night, and the supply is therefore not so pure

as when constantly drawn from during the

day.

Hot- Water Supply. - ^A good hot-water supply

is a necessity in every household, and a great

deal of the comfort of the house depends upon

this supply being adequate to the demands made

upon it.

In most houses the water is heated by the

kitchen range, at the back of which is a boiler ;

from this hot water is conveyed to the hot-water

tank by means of circulation pipes. The supply

of hot water will depend to a great extent upon

the efiicacy of the kitchen range and the supply

system installed. The two best-known systems

in this connection are the " tank " and the

" Cylinder " system. In the first system a tank

is supphed for storage

of hot water, while

a cyhnder takes the

place of the tank in

connection with the

second system. Before

taking a house, care

should be taken to

ascertain whether the

hot-water system is

in thorough working

order.

Heating Water by

Gas. - There are other

methods, however, of

securing a hot-water

supply independent

of the kitchen-range.

There has been placed

upon the market with-

in recent years an ap-

paratus known as a " Circulator." Tlais is a

small boiler heated by gas which can easilj' be

Hot-water Circulator.

connected to the " flow " and " return " pipes

from the coal-range boiler, and will then with

a quite moderate consumption of gas supply hot

water to the circulating tank, either indepen-

dently of, or in conjunction with, the coal -range

boiler, the working of the latter, in the event

of the kitchen fire being lighted, being in

no way interfered with. These circulators are

specially adapted for use in flats, and in villas

where the length of the circulating pipes are

not abnormal.

In small houses and flats where gas is

used exclusively as fuel, many people obtain

their supply of water for the bath by installing

a geyser in the bath-room for the purpose

of heating the bath water, whilst the water

for kitchen and other purposes is boiled on

the gas stove. Geysers for the purpose can

be hired from all the gas companies. The

geyser, however, does not give a storage of hot

water throughout the house, and does not

therefore fully take the place of the range boiler

as does the circulator. It is a useful accessory

to the bath-room, however, in summer, as hot

water for the bath can be obtained by this

means independently of the kitchen range.

VENTHATION

A supply of fresh pure air is essential to

health, hence it follows that homes shotild

be well ventilated. Good air must be admitted

and bad air expelled. Ventilation is the

renewal of the air contained in a room. Thљ

necessity for such renewal increases with the

number of people occupjnng it, and the number

of lights burning in it. Both lights and people

ahke use up the oxygen of the air and dis-

charge into it a certain amount of carbon-

dioxide ; but the human breath has a more

noxious effect than the flamo of an ordinary

lamp or gas jet, for it emits a certain quantity

of highly poisonous organic matter, and it is

chiefly this which vitiates the air and gives it

the well-known " stuffy " odour.

Every one is aware that air that has been

breathed is warm, and that warm air rises.

Many people think that if a room is sufficiently

lofty the bad air will all accumulate near the

roof and the air near the floor will not be \-itiated

for many hours. This is a gi'eat mistake, for

unless some means of letting out the bad air

is provided, its warmth will soon become lost

and its moisture will condense, causing the

bad air to become heavier than the fresh air,

when it will sink and niingle with the latter

and a vitiated atmosphere will be the result.

As a matter of fact, the bad air rarely rises

liigher than twelve feet before it becomes cool

and descends.

Every room, therefore, that is to be ade-

quately ventilated requires both an inlet for

good and an outlet for bad air.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

To secure the ventilation of a dwelling-room

vre reciuire no ceiling to be higher than

tvpelve feet, but the windows slaould reach

the coiling and be open at the top. A fire-

place should always be present and the chimney

and the cliininey are the two readiest means of

ventilation.

The ventilation should be arranged so that

the fresh air is lot in with its current directed

upwards, and the bad air let out near the

ceiUng. It is an error to ventilate the room

into the passage bj' lea\nng the door open and

the window closed. " Windows were made to

be opened, doors to be shut." Bedroom

■windows, especially, should never be altogether

closed at the top. Care should be taken that

the bed is placed so that the cold air does

not beat down upon the sleeper.

The danger of draughts, however, must be

reckoned with in many cases, and for deUcate

The ninckes-Bird Method

of Ventilation.

people wide-open windows in winter are not

always advisable. In these circumstances a

very simple system of ventilation known as the

Hinckes-Bird method should be adopted. It

consists in raising the lower sash of a window a

few inches, and blocking up the opening with a

piece of boarding as long as the width of the

window and about six inches broad, thus allow-

ing the fresh air to enter the room, but only

between the two sashes, and with an upper

current.

The proper ventilation of a house will depend

to a great extent upon its warming arrange-

ments. Somo grates are constructed so that

the fire burning in them serves to warm the air

before it enters the room. A Galton's grate, fur

instance, has an air-space behind the chimney

communicating below with the outside air and

above with the interior of the room, the heat

of the chimney being in this way used to warm

the incoming air.

A very simple means of ventilating ordinary

dwelling-houses is found in what is known as

the " Sheringham Valve," which is a metal

guard placed aroimd an aperture in the wall,

so arranged as to direct the incoming air upwards

and made to work on a liinge so as to show the

opening when desired.

A Tohin'a Tube is a pipe the lower end of

which communicates through an opening in the

wall with the outside air, whilst tlie upper end

opens into the room about six feet above the

floor.

Among other simple aids to ventilation with-

out draught are the following : -

Perforaled Bricks, communicating with the

room by gratings, wliich servo to break up the

current and thus prevent the draught from

being felt.

Boyle's Valve inserted in the cliimney near

the coihng. Tliis contrivance consists of an

apertiire leading into the chimney with two

talc flaps, forming a valve, which permits the

air of the room to enter the chimney, but

prevents the smoke from entering the room.

Louvre Panes, consisting of slips of glass placed

obliquely in an oblong opening cut in the

window pane. They are commonly used in

shop windows that do not open. The Cooper

rose ventilator is on the same principle.

LIGHTING

The proper lighting of a house is essential

not only from the point of view of the

health, but also for the comfort of its inhabi-

tants. A person is more influenced by his or

her svuToundings than one would think - good

temper and cheeriness come naturally amid

cheerful surroundings, whereas dark, gloomy,

and ill-lighted premises tend to have a most

depressing effect upon even the most optimistic

of individuals.

Good natural light during the daytime may

be secured by a wise choice of aspect (see p. 5).

Stained-glass windows should be avoided in

living rooms. JIany people elect to have the

lower sashes of their dining-rooms, for instance,

of stained glass. The effect may bo imposing,

perhaps, but it is certainly not cheerful, and

grandeur is dearly bought at the expense of the

light and cheeriness of a room. Then, again,

creepers should not be allowed to grow over

the front of the house in such a way as to over-

shadow the windows, nor should the light be

shut out by the too close proximity of trees.

It must bo remembered tliat plenty of light

is essential to our health, and care should be

taken therefore to secure it.

Artlflclal Lighting. - In towns electric light and

gas form the chief artificial illuminants. Gas

is also suppUed in a large number of country

places, but where this is not to bo had, lamps

THE HOUSE

are generally used. In large country houses,

however, air gas is often made from a plant on

the premises.

Electric Light as an illuminant has many

advantages. It is cleanly, hygienic, and con-

venient; and if caxe is taken in regulating its use,

the quarterly electric hght bill may be kept well

within bounds. It is very little trouble to switch

off the hght when one leaves the room, and if this

is done not once in a way, but as a general rule,

a substantial sa-ving on the electric light bill is

the result. Low candle-power lights should be

used in the bedrooms, one or two 7 or 8 candle-

power lamps being usually sufficient for each

room.

Economy may also be exercised by means

of the electric lamps selected. Tantalum

and many of the other metallic filament

lamps, whilst giving a much brighter Ught than

the ordinary incandescent lamps with carbon

filaments, consume much less current than the

latter, and are therefore more economical.

In connection with the installation of an

electric plant for Ughting in country mansions

situated in localities where there is no pubUc

supply, the initial outlay will necessarily be

higher. Where a pubUc supply is available

the only expense will be that of wiring the

premises and purchasing the necessary fixtures.

In most oases the latter may be hired from

the electric hght company by payment of a

fixed sum every year. The cost of electric

hght varies in different towns. In London

it averages from 4d. to 5d. per unit for hght-

ing, whilst for heating purposes the cost is Id.

per unit.

Coal Gas is obtained by the distillation of

coal in large chambers or retorts. The dis-

tillation proceeds for about four hours under a

great heat, and the products are broadly coke,

gas, and coal tar. The gas is then cooled,

washed with water, and treated with slaked

lime to remove impurities.

The large cylindrical vessels so prominent in

all gas works are the gas-holders, from which the

supply issues to the consumers. These holders

rise and sink in a tank of water by their own

weight and the upward pressure of the gas in-

side. The gas is conveyed from the holder by

mains and from the mains to the consumer by

service pipes.

The use of coal gas as an illuminant is almost

universal, and many important improvements in

regard to fittings have been made within recent

years which have increased its usefulness to a

remarkable degree.

IMeters are used to meastu-e the gas consumed,

and it is important that every householder

should know how to read and check the meter.

Gas meters are usually lent on liire to the con-

sumer by the gas company. It is important

that the supply of gas to the burner should be

regulated. Tliis can always be done by means

of a regulator or " governor " on the main pipes

or governor burners.

Incandescent Gas. - This is by far the most

superior and effective method of gas hghting.

It is used in connection with special burners

which admit air to be burned with the gas, a

most brilUant effect being achieved by the

illumination of the wliito mantle which is

used in conjunction with the burner. The

biirner is usually fitted with a by -pass for lower-

ing and raising the light. By means of this

by-pass the gas may be left turned on at the

stop-cock, whilst only the faintest flicker of a

flame is left on the burner. The Veritas and

Welsbach mantles are amongst the best known

and most effective to lase with incandescent

gas.

Amongst the latest improvements in connec-

tion with gas hghting may be classed the

Pneumatic Gas Switch, by means of which

gas can be switched on in the same manner as

electric Ught. With tliis simple apparatus any

number of gas hghts can be switched on or off,

separately or together. It consists of three

parts - a switch, a valve and a coil of small tubing.

The switch turns the gas up or down from any

position or distance. The valve with by-pass

complete screws on to any ordinary gas bracket

or chandeher at the burner, winch is easily done

without tools of any kind, whilst the tube, which

is as small and flexible as a beU wire, conducts

the air pressure from the switch to the valve,

and is attached to the wall or woodwork with

small staples suppUed with the sets. By touch-

ing the switch, air pressm-e is sent through the

fine tube, and the Hght is thus turned either

on or off as desired. One of the special features

of the gas switch is the fact that no batteries

or chemicals of any kind whatever are requii-ed.

It is self-contained and requires no further

attention when fitted. Another advantage to

be found in using tlais switch lies in the fact

that incandescent mantles will be found to last

much longer owing to the fact that the gas

switches on easily ; it does away with the sUght

explosion which always takes place when a

match or taper is apphed when hghting the gas

in the usual way.

Air Gas, - In large country houses where there

is no pubhc gas-supply, air gas is largely used

for lighting purposes. Tliis is manufactured "

from a plant on the promises, and there are many

apparatus for the purpose on the market. One

of the best apparatus for manivfacturing air

gas is that sold by Messrs. W. A. S. Benson and

Co., Ltd., of 82 and 83 New Bond Street, London,

W. It is known as the " Aeos " Gas Apparatus.

Tlie hght given by " Aeos " gas, whilst being

brilliant and pure white, is exceedingly soft and

restful. The apparatus is exceedingly simple,

as the plant is whoUy automatic ; it is £ilso

absolutely safe to use, being non-explosive.

The price for a 25-light apparatus capable

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of supplying 25-26 candle-power burners would

be as follows : -

Apparatus £42 0 0

Pump and Tank 5 10 0

Carriage, including return of emjities,

about 3 10 0

£51 0 0

whilst the cost of installing would be about £1

per point. Once the initial cost of installation

has been borne this gas proves one of the most

economical ilhiminants it is possible to have.

Electric Light, Gas and Oil Fittings.- A great

deal of the beauty of a room depends upon the

choice and position of suitable Ughting fittings.

In the dining-room there should always be

a centre light coming over the dinner-table in

addition to any other bracket hghts necessary.

With electric fittings it is as well to have one or

two lamps to the centre hght which are switched

on by different switches, so that either one or

more of the lamps can be lighted at will. A red

silk shade over the centre light has a most

softening and soothing effect. The metal work

is most effective when of antique copper or

brass.

In the drawing-room which is lighted by

electricity, the centre pendant is of different

design, usually consisting of a number of lights,

each with separate ornamental glass shades.

A high electric standard lamp, with a pretty silk

shade of a light colour to tone with the general

decorative scheme of the room, gives a very

pretty effect, as do small lamps to be placed on

mantelpiece, table, or piano as desired.

The hall should be provided with a hang-

ing centre lamp of lantern design, whilst,

especially in houses built in the Queen Anne

style, a plain old-time iron lantern should be

hung outside the porch.

In the billiard-room the lights over the table

should have plain green shades. In the Ubrary

or study a centre light with one or two small

metal table standard lamps with soft silk shades

should bo provided.

In the bedrooms there should always be a

light in front of the toilet table and one over

the bed, the latter to be turned on by a switch

at the side of the bed.

Pretty soft silk shades

of a light bright colour

to tone with the colour-

ing of the room should

be used ; pale pink and

pale green shades are

very effective.

Gas and Oil Lamps. -

In regard to gas, where

inverted incandescent

burners are used, fit-

tings for centre hghts and bracket hghts may be

very bimilar to those used for electric hght, and

Bray's Inverted Burner.

whore the " switch on " system is installed, the

illusion can be made almost complete.

Meiny of the disadvantages comiected with

the use of oil for house hghting can be minimised

by moans of suitable fittings. Pendant lamps

should be used as much as possible. In the

hall a lantern lamp is most effective. The

dining-room lamp can be provided with a pretty

silk shade, or, whore it is preferred, a plain wliite

glass shade, and can be carried out in wrought

iron metal work or polished brass. (For Care of

Lamps, see p. 77.)

Bracket lamps for hanging on walls are eJso

made in many pretty and effective designs.

Warming the House. - The comfort of the house

will depend not a httle upon the method of

artificial heating adopted during the cold season.

Warming should always be considered in relation

to ventilation as there is a very close connection

between the two.

Rooms may be warmed either by open fire-

pleices, closed stoves (for burning of coal or coke,

g£is and oil), or by hot- water pipes and radiators.

The old-fashioned open grate will always be

popular in EngUsh homes. There is some-

tiling Very cheery and comforting about a

good bright coal fire that is lacking with closed-

in stoves and other methods of heating. It is

true it consumes a large amount of fuel for the

heat it yields, as most of the heat goes up the

cliimney, but it makes the chimney a vtiluable

ventilation shaft, wliich many more economical

grates do not. A great deal of the heat-giving

capacity of a fire will, of course, depend upon

the construction of the grate. Tlie best heating

fire-places have the back and sides of brick and

not of iron, as brick radiates back the heat,

whilst iron lets heat slip through it up the

chimney. The back should loan over the fire,

not away from it. The sUts in the grid that the

coal rests on should be narrow so that cinders

may not fall tlirough and be wasted. Tlie bars

in front of the grate should also be narrow, and

the space beneath the fixe should be closed up

in front by means of an iron sliield. Again, the

grate should be wider in front than at the back.

All these principles of construction are to be

found in the grates devised by Pridgin Teale

and Lionel Teale ; the Teale system, in fact, has

formed the basis of all the latest improvemeats

in fire-grates. Many fire-places are now made

almost entirely of glazed briquette, this mate.-ial

covering both the hearth and fire-place surround.

This is undoubtedly one of the most 8U"tistic as

well as one of the most heat-giving styles of

grate.

An adjustable canopy is in most cases fitted to

the top of modern grates.

Many of the newer types of grate are con-

structed wthout the front bars. Of these the

Wells fire-grates are perhaps the best known.

The " Burkone " patent barlesa fire is another

also of escelleat design ; both grates are so coo-

THE HOUSE

Btrueted as to give the maximum of heat with

a mimimum consumption of fuel.

Stoves. - Closed stoves greatly economise fuel

at the expense of ventilation. They often give

the room a stuffy odour, probably from organic

matter in the air being charred by contact with

the stove, and also from the fact that hot iron

is porous and permits the escape of some of the

gaseous products of combustion tlirough it.

They also tend to make the atmosphere un-

pleasantly dry. This latter defect can be

remedied to a certain extent, however, by

keeping trays of water around the stove. The

ventilating stoves specially constructed to admit

air by means of pipes or tubes are the best kind

to use. Various kinds of fuel are used for burn-

ing in these stoves, chief amongst which are coal,

coke, and anthracite coal.

The last-named is a slow-burning natural coal

wliich has three times the heating power of

ordinary bituminous coal, and is absolutely

smokeless. The fuel is very expensive, costing

about £2 per ton, but as one fire will last for

hours, an anthracite stove will really prove an

economy in the long run. It has been calculated

that the average cost for fuel for twelve hours

continuous biirning will not amount to more

than l^d. Anthracite stoves are best fitted in

front of fire-places. Where there is no fire-place,

it is always necessary that the flue pipe should

be carried to a chimney.

Heating by Gas. - The open gas fires, consisting

of jets of flame distributed amongst lumps of

asbestos and burning in an ordinary grate with

An Anthracite Stove.

the chimney just as open as for a coal fire, form

the healthiest method of heating rooms by gas

in ordinary dwelhng-houses.

The most careful ventilation of the room is

necessary when any means of heating by gas

is employed. Whenever gas is used as fuel,

whether in open fires or stoves, trays of water

should be kept near the fire-place or stove to

prevent excessive drying of the atmosphere.

The convenience of gas fixes as labour-saving

Boudoir Grate.

devices is undoubted, and for bedrooms especi-

ally they form an easy and convenient method

of warming, the fact that they can be turned

oS as soon as the room is sufficiently warmed

adding not a Httle to their usefulness. There

are some people, however, who, although they

quite appreciate the many good points about

gas fires, refrain from adopting them from purely

sentimental motives, the coal fire representing to

them the essence of homehness and cheeriness.

Gas stove manufacturers are quite aware of the

existence of this feeling, and are continually

inventing new devices calculated to render the

gas fire as near as possible in appearance to

the coal fire. In a new gas fire-grate sold by

Messrs. Davis & Sons, aiid known as the

" Boudoir Grate," an almost perfect imitation

of a homely log fire is achieved. In the

" Boudoir " fire imitation logs are fitted ; and

the marked resemblance to the effect of the old-

fashioned wood log fire is so great as to almost

make the illusion complete. Tliis grate, it is

interesting to note, was designed by a woman -

IMiss Helen Eddon, of the Gas Light & Coke

Company, London.

Electric Radiators. - Wliere electric light is laid

on in a house the electric radiator stoves make

very convenient, cleanly, and useful heating

apparatus. They can be switched on and off

at will as in the case of electric light. The

initial cost is small, very good radiators being

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

procurable for an outlay of 35s. and upwards ;

but they have the drawback of consuming a

great amount of current, and for tliis reason,

unless great care and discrimination aro exer-

cised in their use, they are apt to prove expensive.

Oil-Stoves. - Where no other method of

heating is available oil-stoves are very useful,

but at the same time they have many disad-

vantages. From the point of \dew of ventilation

they ai'e not hygienic, as they use up a good

amount of pure air ; and being neeirly always

used in rooms which contain no fire-place

there is no outlet for the fumes which pass into

the room and \'itiate the atmosphere.

Oil-stoves reqvure constant attention in the

way of cleaning and trimming; they have a

tendency to smell unpleasantly, and this ten-

dency is particularly marked when their care

in either of the above respects is neglected.

The prices of these stoves range from three or

four shillings to two and a half guineas. Very

useful Uttle stoves may be purchased for an

outlay of ten to eleven sliillings. The more

expensive varieties are of course the best. They

burn a good deal of oil, however, and for this

reason, if burning constantly, the weekly outlay

on oil for a stove would represent in many in-

stances more than the outlay on coal for a fire.

Hot-Water Pipes. - This system of heating is

mostly restricted to large houses and pubUc

buildings and institutions. The heat is diffused

by means of hot water circulated through

the house by pipes and radiators. The in-

stalling of a hot-water system amounts to a

considerable sxmi in the first instance. The

disadvantage of this heating arrangement Ues

in the i&ci that it is not easy to regulate the

temperature, and a stuffy atmosphere is usually

the result. Very often in large houses a hot-

water system is installed for heating the hall

and landings, whilst the rooms are heated with

fires in the ordinary way. There is no doubt

that many colds and other similar ills may often

be attributed to the fact that people are apt to

overlook the danger of loitering in a cold and

draughty hall after coming out of a warm room.

Some method of heating the hall to make it of

uniform temperature with the rooms is therefore

highly desirable, and no more efficient method

than that of a hot- water system could bo devised

for the purpose.

General Condition of the House. - Before rent-

ing or purchasing a house, careful investigation

should be also made into the general condition

of the premises.

The roofs should be examined by a builder for

any defect that might give rise to damp and

other similar ills ; walls, flooring, and ceihngs

should be looked into for cracks and other im-

perfections. Care should be taken to find out

that doors fit well, opening and shutting easily,

on their hinges ; also that locks are in good

conditirn. Windows should be examined to see

that cords are good, and that they open both

top and bottom ; also that they are properly

fitted with bolts, and that the shutters (if any)

are in working order.

Defects in cliimneys should be looked for;

these are often indicated by discoloration by

smoke of the marble of the mantelpieces. The

kitchen range and boiler should be tested, care

being taken to find out if a good supply of hot

water can be ensm-ed. In some houses it is

only after a regular furnace has been blazing in

the Icitchen grate for some hours that the water

begins to show any signs of warmth ; this points

to some defect in the boiler, and a plumber should

at once be called in to put matters right.

If the kitchen fire-place is of an obsolete type,

the landlord should be asked to put in a modern

range. AH pipes should be attended to and

put in repair.

Care should be taken to see that the principal

rooms are fitted with belLs, and if so, whether

the latter are in good condition. Needless to

say, the house should be thoroughly clean and

in every way fit for the occupation of the in-

coming tenant. The latter must be careful to

ascertain that this is the case, and also that it

is not infested by rats, mice, beetles, or other

vermin of an even more disagreeable kind.

No pains should be spared in attending to all

these matters, and seeing that attention is paid

to everytliing that makes for comfort. The

landlord who wishes to lot a house is a much

better-tempered and amenable person than the

landlord who has actually " caught" his tenant.

Insist on everything being put in order before

you take over the premises. If matters are

allowed to slide a great deal of future expense

will be entailed, more especially where the house

is taken upon a " repairing " lease. The need

for caution before making a purchase is none

the loss imperative, or else the purcheiser will

find that what with the cost of putting the

premises into repair in the first instance and the

amount expended subsequently upon the general

upkeep of the house, he will have made a very

bad bargain indeed.

It should bo remembered that, excepting in the

case of houses let fvu*nished, a landlord is not

bound in law to put the premises in a state of

repair or even into a habitable condition before

the tenantry commences unless he has entered

into an agreemient to do so with the incoming

tenant.

HOUSE DECORATION

Once a house has been taken and all the

necessary cleaning and repairs have been duly

carried out, the important question of decora-

tion will have to be entered into.

Many women look upon the selection of wall-

paper as a tedious task which is best avoided

where possible, and leave the entire scheme of

papering and decoration to the discretion of

THE HOUSE

the landlord, with very often lamentable results.

True, in some instances, the latter may be a

man of taste and may take sufficient pride in

his property to select papers suitable for the

aspect of the various rooms and the purpose

for which they are intended. But such a land-

lord will prove an exception to the general rule.

The idea wliich ranks paramount in the mind

of the average landlord is how to save himself

expense. In these circumstances it may be

taken for granted that if the selection is left to

him his choice will be governed by no other

consideration that that of his pocket.

The policy of leaving the selection of wall-

papers to a landlord is therefore an altogether

fallacious one, and should never be adopted.

If he has arranged to paper and decorate the

premises for the incoming tenant he will be

only too pleased for the latter to make his selec-

tion, provided however that he keeps within

a certain stipvilated sum. If the tenant wishes

to obtain papers of a better quality than those

procurable for the stun allotted, all that he will

have to do wiU be to make up the difference. A

landlord will always consent to an arrangement

of this kind.

It should be ascertained that the walls are

thoroughly dry and clean before the new paper

is put on. The practice of pasting a new paper

over an old one cannot be too highly condemned

from the point of view of cleanliness and sani-

tation. Care should also be taken that the

paper is fixed to the wall with material that

does not turn sour; bad size used for this

purpose is particularly noxious. A great deal

of illness has been traced to the hanging of

wall-papers with bad paste or size. The walls

of newly-built houses should not be properly

papered for six or eight months, as they will

not be thoroughly dry before that time. A

temporary papering should be provided during

this period.

The decorative scheme should be carefully

considered both in regard to the shape, size,

light, and aspect of the various rooms, and also

in regard to the style of furniture which they

will contain. Rooms that are furnished accord-

ing to a special period scheme, for instance,

must bo papered in conformity with the style

of this period. Wall-papers must always act

as a suitable background for the furniture of

a room both in regard to pattern, style, and

colouring, and tliis fact should never be lost

sight of in making a choice. Then, again, the

aspect of a room must influence the choice of

the colour selected ; what are known as warm

colours should not be selected for a room with

a south or south-east aspect, whilst all " cold "

colours should be avoided in the decoration of .

rooms facing north or north-east. Yellow and

red, for instance, are warm coloxors, whilst blue

is what is known as a cold colour. These tliree

colours are known as the " primary " colours.

Any child who has experimented with a bos

of paints will know that blue and yellow mixed

make green, whilst red and blue make purple.

The secondary colours so made may be either

warm or cold colours according to the proportion

in which their primary colours are mixed. In

green, for instance, if the blue preponderates over

the yellow the result is a " cold " colour ; but

many shades of green in which the yellow pre-

ponderates will result in an almost warm colour,

the warmth of the original yellow being judi-

ciously tempered by the admixture of the cold

colour blue. Certain tones of very pale green

should always be avoided, because their colour

is due to an injurious white pigment containing

arsenic. At an inquest held in London a short

time ago on the body of a man it was found that

his death was due to arsenical poisoning from

the cheap green paper on his bedroom wall.

Fires in the bedroom had caused the fliiff fiom

the paper to be distributed over the room, and

as the man was in a weak state of health the

poison germs proved fatal.

Just because some greens are dangerous,

however, it does not follow that green should be

tabooed in house decoration. It is only the

cheap pale cold greens which should be shunned.

Dark green is one of the most useful colo\irs

that can be selected in room decoration, as

most other colours tone or contrast well with

it. Several delicate greens may also be had

which have no injurious ingredients in their

composition.

Dadoes and friezes enter largely into the

scheme of present-day wall-paper decoration,

but their choice must depend upon the size and

height of the room. In small low-ceilinged

rooms dadoes should never be used, as they only

make small rooms look smaller. In regard to

friezes, there is a certain difierence of opinion

amongst furniture experts. Some say that

they should not be used at all in low small

rooms, whilst others maintain that an un-

broken line of wall-paper from floor to ceiling,

far from adding to the apparent height of a

low room, only serves to diminish it, whilst if

the line is broken by means of a narrow frieze,

the eSect is to make the room more loftj'. It

may be said as a general rule, however, that the

striped self-coloured papers are the best to use

in small low-ceilinged rooms, as the stripes

tend to give an impression of height. All papers

with lai'ge patterns should be avoided on the

walls of small rooms, although, if judiciously

chosen, when used in large lofty rooms they are

very eSective. Before choosing a wall-paper it

is always as well to see it in the piece, and to

try the effect of a piece held against the wall

before making the final selection.

One important thing to remember in the

decoration of rooms is that the vaxious de-

corations should not match each other in

monotonous fashion. The colour scheme is

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

always more effective, for instance, when carpets

or table coverings or both form a pleasing

contrast to the wall-papers. Wlaere there is a

pattern on the wall-paper, let the cvirtains be

of absolutely plain material ; never repeat tlie

pattern of a wall-paper in the cliintz of curtains

or chair coverings.

Ceilings should always be in light tones and

cornices should harmonise with the ceiling,

whilst all woodwork, including wall skirting,

insides of doors, and windows, should be painted

in a tint to match the principal tones of the

W£ill-paper - with light delicate papers white

woodwork is always suitable. In bedroonis,

the designs of which should be always light

where possible, light woodwork is also an

advantage.

On the whole it may be said that the absolutely

plain papers are those which form the most

effective background for both pictures and

furniture, proxnding of course that sviitable

colourings are chosen. \Vhere a number of

pictvu-es are to be hung, elaborate designs should

never be used. Papers with dull svu-faces show

off good pictures to the best advantage. Picture

rails OP mouldings from wliich the picttires can be

hung by means of pictvire-hooks should

be included in the decoration of all

the reception rooms. These mouldings

not only f oma an additional ornament

to the room, but do away altogether

with the necessity of adopting the old-

fashioned method of suspending the

pictures from large nails in the wall, a

method which is certainly not conducive to the

long life of the wall- paper.

Different Kinds of Papers. - Amongst the most

effective of present-day wall-papers may be

cltissed the plain silk fibre papers in uniform

tints. These have a softness of siu-face which is

peculiarly pleasing and effective. Pretty friezes

in floral and other designs are sold to match

these papers.

The most pleasing effects with all plain papers,

however, are achieved by means of floral borders,

which are not only utilised as friezes, but are

carried down the walls at certain intervals to

form wide panels. These plain papers with

border effects form the most fashionable de-

signs at the present moment. The silk fibre

papers may be had from Is. 6d. per piece, an

especially good quality being obtainable for

2s. 6d.

The plain ingrain papers are also very effective ;

they have a somewhat rougher surface than the

silk fibre papers, and may be had from Is. 6d.

per piece.

The moir^ papers have a surface resembling

the silk after which they are named, and may

be had from Is. 6d. a piece. They are especially

effective when thrown into reUef by a pretty

frieze or border.

Verj' artistic also are the satin stripe papers.

These are in uniform colourings consisting of

satin-like stripes alternating with stripes of a

duller siu'face. Their effect in pink, blue, and

all the lighter shades is dainty in the extreme ;

wliilst carried out in alternate stripes of white

and silver they make a particularly effective

drawing-room decoration, especially when used

as a backgi-ound for seventeenth-century furni-

ture.

Patterned weJl-papers, where they are pre-

ferred, can be very effective if judiciously selected,

but the principle that large and bold designs

are only suitable for large lofty rooms should

never be lost sight of. Several very pretty

designs may be had in the chintz wall-papers.

Stencilled papers are much more expensive

than the other varieties. They are very hand-

some in effect, but on the whole are more suitable

for the decoration of large public buildings than

for that of private houses.

The plain saniteiry washable papers are

especially useful for nursery decoration when

finished with pretty friezes and borders illus-

trating nursery rhymes, fairy stories, or re-

presenting various farmyard animals or any

other objects calculated to appeal to the

childish mind.

Tiled walls form an ideal decoration for the

bath-room, but these are necessarily expensive

and beyond the reach of the average purse.

A very good substitute for tiles is to be had in

the material known as " Emdeca," which con-

sists of an alloy of tin enamelled and is sold at

prices ranging from 2s. 4d. the piece (16^x22

inches) and upwards. This, however, would

also form a somewhat costly decoration for a

bath-room when regarded from the point of

view of only a moderately filled purse, but it can

be used as a dado, the upper part of the walls

being painted with " muraline " or some other

washable preparation. Emdeca is also very

useful for fixing in sheets at the back of wash-

stands and sinks, its appearance being very

cleanly and dainty.

Painting and Distemper. - The usefulness of

paint in wall decoration must not be over-

looked, especially when quite plain walls are

required. It does not show damp or dirt in

the same degree as plain wall-paper, nor is it

liable to fade when exposed to tho glare of the

sun in a room with a sunny aspect.

Of the various preparations for painting

walls " Ripolin " is one of the most satisfactory.

The Flat Ripolin has a dull velvety surface

which is very soft and pleasing in effect. Ripolin

may be had in any colour. It should be finished

off where possible with a paper border or frieze,

and a dado of lincrusta or other material where

the decoration scheme of the room admits of it.

Sanalene is also an excellent paint for wall

decoration. Ripolin Gloss and Sanalene Glosa

are especially good decorations for nui-series,

bath-rooms, larders, kitchens, &c., as they are

THE HOUSE

washable. Both Ripolin and Sanalene are also

very usefiil for painting the woodwork of a

room. Plain distempered walls can also be

very effective. Hall's Sanitary Washable Dis-

temper is one of the best to use. It is easily

washed when the walls begin to show signs of

dirt., and proves one of the cheapest and most

economical wall decorations it is possible to

have. A pretty paper frieze can be used with

advantage to finish ofi the decoration of dis-

tempered walls.

Dadoes, Panelling and Relief Work. - Dadoes

make a very effective finish to wall decoration,

being especially suited to rooms with lofty

walls. The Japanese leather papers sold at

from 3s. 6d. a yard are often used in dado work.

Lincrusta is another good material which can

be had at prices varying from Is. a yard and

upwards, a very good quality being procurable

for 3s. or 4s. per yard. The brown lin-

crusta is much used for dining-room dadoes.

" Anaglypta " is also a very useful material

both for dadoes and ceiling relief work. It may

be had in all designs and quaUties, is. a yard

representing a good average price for ordinary

purposes, A pretty dado of white anaglj'pta

makes a very graceful finish to drawing-room

walls.

Dadoes should always be finished with orna-

mental mouldings called dado rails. These

serve not only to set them off to advantage, but

also as a protection to the lower part of the

walls from the knocks of chairs and other

furniture.

Wood panelling makes a very effective decora-

tion for dining-room, library, or study where

the rooms are large and lofty. A panelUng is

carried much higher up the waUs than a dado,

a deep frieze being as a rule the only other wall

decoration required. Oak, mahogany, and cedeur

panellings give a most handsome effect. The

cheapest oak panelling is Is. 6d. a foot. Good

English oak may be had from 2s. 3d. a foot,

whilst mahogany panelling may be had from

2s. a foot. Though the initial expense is

necessarily very great, yet from the point of

view of wear wood panellings are unequalled.

They are easy to keep clean, and can be bodily

removed and fitted in other rooms if desired.

Wood panelling enamelled or painted white is

often used in drawing-room decoration. In very

elaborately decorated period drawing-rooms the

wood is often carried up the walls in very narrow

panels, alternating with panels of silk in deHcate

tints. Such an elaborate scheme of decoration,

however, would only be suitable in very large

and luxuriously fvirnished dwellings. Where

white wood panelling is used in the drawing-

room of the average household it is only carried

to the height of a dado. Needless to say, in very

small rooms panelling of any kind would look

altogether out of place. (For Chimney-piece

Decorations, see p. 22.)

COLOUR SCHEMES FOR DIFFERENT

ROOMS

The Dining-Room. - For the decoration of a

dining-room reds, yellows, buffs, dark greens,

and r\isset browns are the colours most often

selected. There is a certain tradition in regard

to the decoration of a dining-room which dies

hard. Everything about the room must be

imposing, hence a rich red is a very favourite

colour. It is, however, not so fashionable for

this purpose as of yore, its use being to a certain

extent superseded by the present vogue for

papers of buff and russet tints, which are now

being used extensively in the dining-room decora-

tion of the most tastefully furnished houses.

The choice of colour must of course be guided

by the aspect of the room - red, yellow, and the

warmer shades being the most suitable where

it has a north-east aspect, whilst cool dark

greens and mauves are ideal colourings for

rooms with sunny aspects. Red and green,

russet and green, and buff, brown and green,

mauve and grey make admirable dining-room

colour schemes. For instance, a dining-room

papered in red might have dark green curtains,

a dark green table-cover, and an Axminster

carpet in which dark green is the prevaiUng

tone, or else one of these many-toned oriental

carpets, the soft tones of which combine so well

with almost any scheme of colouring ; russet-

colo\ired walls would look well with green cur-

tains, green table-cloth, and a warm red carpet-

square over a dark parquet or polished wood

flooring.

A plain pattemless bufi paper thrown into

relief by a rich brown dado woiild make an ex-

ceptionally handsome background for mahogany

furniture and pictures in dark brown frames,

whilst walls papered in soft mauve with a frieze

of silver grey, mauve curtains, a tapestry

carpet-square with a subdued pattern on a

grey ground, and a tapestry table-cover to

tone with the carpet, would set off a dining-

room suite of oak in Queen Anne style.

The Drawing-Room. - The drawing-room is

the room of aU others which lends itself to Ught

and dehcate treatment. The general effects of

the decorative scheme should be one of bright-

ness and cheerfulness, and, above all, of refine-

ment. Dehcate mauves, soft greens, turquoise

blues, white, pinks, are all suitable colours for

wall decoration. The aspect of the room must

of course be considered. Warm soft pinks and

yellows are best for rooms facing north-east,

whilst soft cool greys, blues and greens form

ideal colourings for rooms with sunny aspects.

Wlnte is particularly suitable in small rooms,

as it gives an impression of greater space. As

a background for Adam's or Empire furniture

it is especially effective. Pretty striped papers

in hght colours with floral friezes go well with

Hepplewhite furniture.

THE WOJyiAN'S BOOK

A drawing-room papered or painted in white

would look well with a frieze or floral border of

a pretty shade of blue green with a carpet and

curtains in the same colouring. The entire

woodwork of the room, including mantelpiece,

overmantel, and dado (if anj') would also be

white.

A drawing-room with a north-east eispect

would look well with a pink satin stripe paper

in a soft tone, an art green pile carpet, and

curtains of the same shade of green.

Soft grey wall-paper with a rose-coloured

floral frieze, rose curtains, and rose and grey in

the colour of the carpet would make another

effective colour scheme.

Notliing could bo calculated to set o2 drawing-

room furniture to better advantage than a

light well-pohshed parquet flooring adorned here

and there by one or two choice oriental rugs.

The cost is, however, prohibitive to those who

are not superabundantly supplied with this

world's riches.

Many people who have carpet-squares or rugs

as floor coverings in all the other rooms of the

house prefer a fitted carpet in the drawing-

room. Where square carpets are used " par-

quet " makes the best surround, but this is

necessarily expensive. Failing parquet a good

floor stain should be applied to the surround.

Many good stains are sold to imitate oak, dark

oak, hght oak, walnut, rosewood, satinwood,

and other woods. Both parquet and stained

floorings require to be kept weU polished

(see p. 66).

The Library. - The hbrary should be painted

or papered in sober colours such as brown,

red, tan, and dark green, in keeping with the

dignity of the room. To paper a library in

the pale eu-t shades of blue or green would

be to go against every law of what is fitting

and proper. A good soft Turkey carpet

forms a favourite floor covering for this

room. The shades of Turkey and other oriental

carpets are so skilfully interwoven that they

will tone with almost any colour. Brown walls

and a deep red carpet and curtains are very

effective. All the wood should be in brown.

Oak and other wood panelUngs are largely used

for wall decoration in the libraries of the rich.

They have a very handsome and imposing

effect. Dadoes in dark shades of anaglypta

or hncrusta are very suitable. Red is a

favourite colour in library decoration. Walls

papered in red with brown woodwork, a carpet

in deep tones of green and red, and curtains

to match makes a very effective background.

Breakfast-Room. - The colour treatment of a

breakfast-room will, of course, depend upon its

aspect. In well -planned houses it usually has

a siinny position. A paper with an unobtrusive

rose floral pattern on a white ground would tone

well with an art blue carpet-square. A plain

blue paper with white woodwork, pretty chintz

or cretonne curtains with a pink floral pattern

on a wliite ground, a pretty cord carpet with a

rose pattern on a fawn ground would also be

very suitable.

Bedrooms. - The bedroom papers should be

bright and cheerful-looldng ; never heavy, and,

above aU, intricate designs should bo avoided.

Those are apt to be particularly irritating to an

invaUd who is forced to spend a number of days

in bod, and worrying over the intricacies of a

wall-paper can at times have an ahnost madden-

ing effect upon a person so situated. As illness

is a factor which will have to be reckoned with

in almost every household, let the bedroom

paper be bright yet restful in design { in fact,

noticing can be better than an absolutely plain

wall-paper. Washable distemper also forms

an admirable decoration, and can be had

in all the best and most artistic shades.

Distempered walls, however, should always

be finished off with a pretty frieze. A plain

white paper or distemper, with a pretty floral

border of roses to form a panelled effect, would

go well with a green art square carpet, rose

curtains, and ivory-white woodwork : soft blue

paper would tone well with a pretty tapestry

carpet with a rose design on a fawn ground,

whilst pretty white and rose chintz curtains

would complete the colour scheme. White

papers with pretty floral friezes and borders to

tone with the rest of the decorative scheme form

the most characteristic feature of present-day

bedroom decoration ; a plain white paper with

a very deep wisteria frieze is especially effective

and would look well with a mauve carpet and

mauve curtains.

The Hall. - ^It is a mistake to think that

gloomy colouring is essential to the decoration

of a hall - so much depends upon whether it is

a bright hall or a dark one. Plain papers or

distemper are as a rule the best to use unless the

hall is a very lofty one. Warm shades of red and

terra-ootta are very suitable, or green where the

hall is a particularly bright one. White dadoes,

friezes, and woodwork will go a long way towards

brightening up a dark hall. Very deep friezes

can be losed with good effect. A rich pile caxpet

to tone with the stair carpet and laid over lino-

leum is a very effective floor covering. Wh en the

hall is separated from the outer door by a small

vestibule, the door of tho latter should be Jraped

with curtains to tone with the rest of the

colour scheme. Wlicre hnoleum is used as floor

covering it should be of a simple pai-quetry

pattern. Any vakicd trophies, such as swords,

other armour, fox brushes, &c., &c., form most

suitable decorations for the walls of a hall.

FURNISHING THE HOME

The choice of furniture for the home should

not be undertaken lightly. It is a matter which

calls for the exercise of much discrimination

THE HOUSE

and forethought, careful consideration of ways

and means, and, above all, much ingenuity in

cutting one's coat according to one's cloth, and at

the same time getting the best possible value for

money expended.

The requirements of the different rooms in

the house should first be carefully studied, and

a list made out of every piece of furniture

necessary for each separate room, including

carpet, fire-irons, window-curtains, curtain rods,

blinds, &c.

It may take some time to make out a thor-

oughly comprehensive list, but it will prove to

be time well expended. To go to a furniture

shop with only a vague idea of the general wants

of the different rooms is to court disaster at the

outset. Money which should have been ex-

pended upon essentials goes to purchase articles

which may be ornamental, it is true, but which

are totally unnecessary for use, whilst the im-

portant essentials that make for comfort are

either overlooked, or else remembered too late.

It is most important, therefore, to set about

buying furniture in a business-like way. Lack of

method in buying will inevitably result in chaos,

and the shopping for the home, instead of being

a pleasure, as it should be if undertaken in the

proper spirit, will prove a positive ordeal for

the unfortunate shoppers.

Many people who have only a very small sum

to spend upon furnitxire make the mistake of

taking little interest in their shopping, resigning

themselves to the purchase of anything, no matter

how ugly, so long as it is cheap. Never was

there a greater fallacy. Good taste should be

the guiding spirit in the furnishing of the home,

and good taste goes a great deal further than

mere money in this respect. Tlie most beautiful

homes are not necessarily those which have been

furnished without any regard to cost ; rather are

they those upon which care and trouble have

been expended in making a judicious and taste-

ful selection.

A woman of refinement and taste will make a

room in which the furnitiire largely consists of

the results of her own handiwork and skiU look

better and much more desirable than the room

of the woman with unlimited wealth at her

command, who does not possess the necessary

taste to guide her in steering clear of mere

vulgar display. Money is a most important

factor in the furnishing of a home, it is true,

but a very little money can be made to go a long

way if only a httle trouble and care are exercised

in the spending of it. A great deal, of course,

will depend upon the resourcefulness of the

young couple. Some men, for instance, have a

taste for carpentering and carving, then how

can this taste be more satisfactorily employed

than in the furnishing of the home ? Pretty

shelves and book-cases and even tables can be

made in this way at a very trifling cost. Ordinary

orange or soap boxes can be turned into wall

brackets, boot cupboards, and even book-cases.

Cosy window-seats and pretty ottomans can be

turned out by the home upholsterer and car-

penter at a trifling cost. It is wonderful what

can be done with a few yards of chintz and a

Uberal supply of enamel. Dainty hangings for

impromptu curtain cupboards, wall draperies

to hide ugly corners, cushions and window-

curtains can be fashioned from the chintz by

deft and skiJful fingers, whilst ordinary deal

tables and shelves may be converted into very

dainty pieces of furniture indeed by means of

a good coating of enamel well applied. As a

general rule, the homes which require the

exercise of so much care, ingenuity, and abiUty

to make a sura of money go a long way in the

furnishing are those that give the most real

satisfaction to their occupants, and what

greater pleastire can there be than in the realisa-

tion of the fact that the httle pinchings and

contrivings have brought their reward. The

young wife who hears a friend congratulate

her on the appearance of a pretty rug which

she has fashioned from a piece of carpet bought

as a traveller's sample for a few sliillings at

a furniture shop, will experience a much more

genuine thrill of pleasure than will her richer

sister who is complimented upon any article of

furniture upon the purchase of which she has

not expended a single thought.

It should be every woman's aim, therefore,

however small a sum she may have to invest

on the purchase of fxirniture, to see that it is

expended to the best advantage, both from the

point of view of taste and also from that of

suitabihty and wear. Do not aim at handsome

effects which cannot be achieved with the

small sum at your command; cheap imitations

should also be shunned. Let what you have be

good of its kind. It is better to buy one or two

really good pieces of simple and unpretentious

fixrniture and add to them by degrees, than to

buy a quantity of cheap imitation which will

be shabby in a year.

A good deal of furniture is sold upon the hire

system nowadays ; that is to say, that, after the

payment of a certain stipulated small sum as a

deposit by the purchaser the furnitiu?e is de-

livered at his premises, and is paid for in monthly

instalments until the pm-chase is complete.

When a hire contract is entered into with a

good and reliable firm the transaction often

proves satisfactory, and for people who have

not the command of a sum of ready money,

however small, with which to buy their furni-

ture it is a most convenient method, but

in many other respects the liire system is

open to objection. To begin with, it will mean

a great strain upon the income of the young

husband during the years in which he is fii'st

beginning to reahse his added responsibihties,

a strain which is apt to become a veritable

burden in the case of those ups and downs of

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

fortune to which every one more or less is

liable. Should any reverse of fortune occur

owing to which for a time he is obliged to sus-

pend his payments, he is confronted with the

probability of ha\'ing the furnitvire taken away,

even though he should have paid off all but the

leist few instalments. Again, when a person

heis a fixed sum to spend, he knows he must

keep within its Mmits, whereas when it is a

question of payment by degrees he often ends

by buying more than he can tifford. As a

matter of principle, therefore, from the point

of view of the young couple who axe just

starting upon the management of a home, the

hire system has much in its disfavour, and,

how3ver small the sum available, it is better

to paj' outright for the furniture, beginning

married life clear of the money responsibiUties

which would be otherwise involved. One can

always begin in a small way, launching out

fiu-ther as the savings accumulate or the income

increases.

A small flat with two bedrooms, a sitting-room,

bath-room, and a kitchen can be very well

fiimished for £50, and much less than that if the

young couple are adept at contriving in the way

already described.

Young engaged couples who have to set about

choosing furniture for their new home would do

well to get some assistance in drawing up a

list of their requirements. Knowledge of the

ins and outs of furnishing is best attained by

experience, and for this reason the bride's

mother will often be able to make many useful

suggestions.

Having made out their list it must next be

their aim to divide up the sum to be spent

upon the various rooms in suitable proportions.

For this they will have to acquire some know-

ledge of the prices of the various articles, and

for information in regard to this point they

cannot do better than send for the catalogues

of one or two of the best furnishing firms.

Furniture catalogues in these enlightened days

are not only true objects of art in regard to

illustrations, but they usually contain all

possible information in regard to the question

of furniture, which makes it exceptionally easy

for the buyer to make a suitable selection.

Comprehensive lists axe drawn up containing

details in regard to each article necessary in

furnishing the home from the table in the dining-

room to the saucepans in the kitchen, and all

the prices are marked in plain figures.

In ewldition, people are advised as to how to

spend certain sums of money on their furniture

to the best advantage. Nearly every furniture

list contains schemes for furnishing flats and

houses for sruns varying from £50 to £500 and

upwards. These schemes are drawn up especi-

ally for the use of people of average means who

have a certain sum to spend and must keep

■within its limits.

Furthermore, all the large firms show model

houses on their premises completely furnished

in accordance with the details in their cata-

logues. A visit to any of these model houses is

an education in itself, and nothing is calculated

to be of greater assistance in giving reUable

guidance to the shopper as to how her money

may be spent. The model dwellings are com-

pletely furnished in every detail, and in each

room a list is usually hung up in some promi-

nent position giving full particulars in regard

to every piece of furniture necessary with the

price of each separate article. The decorative

scheme is complete, including fire-place and

fire-irons, window drapery, curtains and wall

paper, though the estimate in most cases does

not include the latter. A careful study of

these rooms both in regard to the colour

scheme and also to the arrangement of their

actual contents cannot fail to be a useful guide

to any purchaser as to her requirements.

Not only one but three or four furniture show-

rooms should be visited. The shopper can have

no better opportunity of studying really practi-

cal furniture schemes, and even though she

cannot afford to purchase furniture of the kind

so displayed, she will gain many helpful ideas

in planning out her own httle furniture scheme

according to the limitations of her purse. (See

Maples' Ninety Guinea Flat, p. 35.)

FLOORING AND FLOOR COVERINGS

Parquetry. - It should be ascertained that

the floors are well levelled, smooth, and free from

cracks and holes before laying down carpets.

Plasticity and elasticity are very necessary

attributes to all good flooring. It should also

have a good surface capable of easy polish.

Particularly where the floor, or at any rate the

borders of the floors, axe stained and poUshed

is the last quality necessary. Parquetry is the

ideal flooring for hall and reception rooms, but

its cost is very great, and for this reason it is a

luxury to be enjoyed only by the favoured few.

The cost of laying parquetry flooring in a

moderately sized square hall of the kind so often

seen in modern houses and flats might in many

instances be met by economies practised in the

general fvirnishing of the rooms. The first

impressions gained of the interior of the house

upon entering the hall goes a long way to help

the visitor to form an opinion of the whole,

and for this reason the question of hall decora-

tion should never be relegated to the back-

ground when the decorative scheme is planned.

Where paxquetry is used for the entire flooring

it should be of the best. The thin makes are,

however, quite effective as surrounds for

central carpets. They can be purchased at

prices ranging from 3d. per foot and upwards.

Carpets. - Tlie choice of carpets for a house

must first of all depend upon the sum of money

THE HOUSE

to be allotted to their purchase. This should

not amoiuit to more than one-sixth of the sum

allowed for furnishing. Where a house or flat

has to be furnished for £90 to £100, for instance,

not more than £15 should be spent on carpets,

whereas out of a sum of £200 for furniture,

the outlay on carpets should not be more than

£30.

It requires the exercise of no little forethought

to make a small sum of money go a long way

in the purchase of floor coverings. First and

foremost cheap showy carpets should be avoided.

One cannot expect good wear out of a very cheap

carpet. It will very soon become faded and

shabby looking, and nothing tends more to spoil

the appearance of a room than a shabby carpet.

For those with hmited purses there can be no

more economical and, at the same time, more

diirable floor coverings than plain felts and

linoleums.

Felts are now largely used as entire fitted

floor carpets. They wear much better, and are

much more eflPective in every way than the

cheaper varieties of carpets, for whereas the

latter are very seldom obtainable in really

good colourings, the plain felts are to be had in

all the best art shades and are most soft and

harmonious in effect. They lend themselves

admirably to the soft subdued colour schemes

now so greatly in vogue, and act as a very

effective background to furniture. When felt

is used as a floor covering there should always

be in addition one or two pretty rugs scattered

here and there about the room. Felt is also

largely used as a surround for a square carpet,

many people preferring it to Hnoleum owing to

the fact that it gives the room an appearance of

greater warmth in winter. Oriental rugs show

up especially well upon a plain felt carpet.

Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster rugs are

also very effective. Many a bargain in rugs

may be picked up at the annual sales of

any large furniture establishment. In many

cases the large furnishing firms and carpet

manufactxirers sell what axe known as

" traveller's samples " of carpet. These run at

times into lengths of a j'ard and over. They

only require to be finished off with a little gallon,

and very pretty and handsome rugs are thus

made at the cost of a few shillings. Pieces of

the very best Brussels, Axminster, and other

well-known makes may be had in this way,

and when the buyer is able to make a good

selection, she will find that she has a much

better rug than it would have been possible for

her to procvire when buying in the ordinary

way.

Carpets wear much longer if an underlay is

provided to keep them from direct contact with

the floor. Plain grey felt is admirable for the

purpose, and serves not only to preserve the

carpet, but also to make it softer to the tread.

A good underfelt may be had from Is. to

Is. 4^d. per yard running from 46 to 54 inches

in width. Bro-wn paper also makes a very good

underlay, and may be purchased for 2d. a yard.

What is known as felt paper is also suitable and

costs 3d. per yard. A species of coarse canvas

is also used for putting under carpet and may be

purcheised for 4^d. a yard.

Art square carpets as a rule do not require

fastening to the floor, as the heavy

furniture of a room would keep them

in place. Heavy rich pile carpets, how-

ever, require to be fastened here and

there. The most handy fastening for a

square carpet consists of a patent brass

nail which fixes into a groove of the

same metaL The groove is screwed into

the floor, a hole being drilled into the

latter to receive it. The carpet can

thus be lifted when necessary with very Patent

little trouble, the nails coming easily out Carpet

of the grooves when it is pulled gently

upwards (see illustration).

Measuring Rooms for Carpets. - Most carpet

manufacturers send representatives to take the

measurements of their customers' rooms for

carpets, but long distances and various other

circumstances sometimes make it impossible

BAY WINDOW

Plan showing Method of Measuring Room

for Carpet.

for them to do so. The diagram here given

shows how a room should be measured

for carpet and surround. When ordering

carpets a similar plan should be sent showing

position of windows, doors, and fire-place, and

giving the measurements in feet and inches.

The dimensions should be accurately taken,

though the plan need not be drawn to scale ;

carpets of any kind can be made up from such a

drawing.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Different Kinds of Carpets. - For good wear,

artistic coloviring, and handsome appearance

generally the various oriental carpets are un-

equalled. Tliey are hand-made and the design

and colouring ai'e so skilfully interwoven that

they will be found to tone well with almost any

colour scheme. Skill in designing is almost a

tradition with the peasants of the East, for the

various designs are handed down from father

to son, and are woven from memory, the keen

eye for designing and colouring being thus an

hereditary gift.

The carpets are sold in the eastern bazaars.

Jlost large carpet -dealers in Europe have agents

in the various well-known centres of the carpet

industry who are entrusted with the purchase

of carpets on behalf of their firm. Turkey

carpets are very rich and handsome in appear-

ance. Tlioy are favourite carpets for the dining-

room, library, or study. The Anatolian Tvirkey

carpets are particularly noted for their delicate

colourings, especially in the lighter shades

suitable for drawing-room carpets. Persian

carpets have a particularly viaried range of

colouring from the handsome rich tints suitable

for dining-room and study, to the soft delicate

tints for drawing-room use. They are also

durable, being very close in texture. Indian

carpets are lower in quality and consequently

less expensive than most other oriental carpets.

The patterns are worked on various light

grounds for drawing-room wear and also

darker grounds suitable for dining-room and

library. The cheapest varieties should not be

chosen as they do not wear well. The better

qualities are, however, very satisfactory, as the

pile of these is close and deep and the colouring

light and harmonious.

Brussels Carpets seem to retain a perennial

hold upon the public favour. They make very

beautiful and durable floor coverings, but a

fair price should always be paid for them. In-

crease of competition in the carpet trade has

induced many manufacturers to place very

cheap carpets upon the market, advertising

them as " Best Brussels " and quoting very low

prices for them. It is impossible to obtain a

good " Brussels " at a low price ; 4s. 9d. a yard

represents a good average figure for best

Brussels carpets, and as a general rule not loss

than 33. 9d. a yard should be paid if a really

good quality carpet is desired. The pattern

of a Brussels carpet always shows through on

the wrong side. The carpets are made by

•weaving thread through a canvas over wires,

the latter being withdrawn after the carpet ia

woven, leaving the loops which form the pile of

the carpet. A good quality Brussels carpet

can always be judged by the length of the loops

or pile. These carpets may bo bought by the

yard or in seamless woven squares.

Axmlnster. - The real hand-made Axminster

carpoi3 make luxurious and therefore costly

floor coverings. Tliey take their name from

the town of Axminster in Devonshire where

they were first made. They have a rich deep

pile and are woven in the most beautiful designs

and colourings. More within the reach of the

average purse are the machine-made Axminster

Pile Carpets. These are to bo had in many

qualities and in a great variety of colourings -

in light tones sxiitablo for di'awing-room use,

and in the deeper colourings suitable for dining-

room and library, and may be pm-chased for

from 4s. 6d. per yard. Tlie patent Axminster

and the Crompton Axminster are the best of

the maoliine-made varieties.

Wilton Carpets. - The Wilton carpets are

noted for theu* soft appearance and plush-like

surface. Tliey are closer in texture, though

shorter in pile than the Axminster carpets.

They are made in a very similar manner to

Brussels carpets with the exception that the

wires are not taken away until the loops are

cut. They are made in a variety of designs

and colourings, the design in self colours being

especially beautiful. Wilton carpets may be

purchased by the yard or in seamless woven

squares.

Kidderminster Carpets. - These are reversible

carpets without pile. They are mostly suitable

for bedrooms. It is never advisable, however,

to use them as fitted carpets, as the dirt gets

very quickly through the carpet to the floor,

remaining there in thick layers if the carpet is

not frequently lifted. Kidderminster squares,

with linoleum surrounds, are the best to use.

Seamless Edderminster squares are now sold

under a great many different names, each

manufacturer having his own name for his

special make of carpet. The carpets known as

" Roman Squares " are well-known varieties of

the Kidderminsters, as also are the Cheviot and

Shetland squares.

Tapestry Carpets are not unlike Brussels in

appearance, but the pattern does not show

through on the wrong side. They are inex-

pensive, and may be had in many pretty designs,

but are not suitable for hard wear.

Velvet Pile Carpets. - Many varieties of velvet

pile carpets are manufactured in imitation of

Wilton carpets. They are inexpensive, but un-

suitable for hard wear.

Stair Carpets. - Stair carpets reqviire to be

very carefully laid over undorfelt or stair-pads.

A sufficient quantity should be bought to

ensure an extra half yard for each flight of

stairs. This will allow for a periodical shifting

of the carpets at the treads about four times

a year so that the Wear is evenly distributed,

the extra half yard being always kept neatly

folded under the last tread of each flight or

under the carpet on the landing. The carpets

will be found to wear much longer if this simple

precaution is taken.

It is always advisable if a saving can bo

THE HOUSE

effected elsewhere to spend a little more money

on stair carpets and to have them of as good

a quality as possible. They are subjected to an

enormous amount of wear and tear, and the

very cheap kinds will soon become shabby

looking. , Good pile carpets are the best for

wear, Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster stair

carpets being very effective. Tapestry carpets

are also smtable and may be had at moderate

prices.

Plain felt in one of the art shades makes a

very effective and economical stair covering

especia^y suitable for a house furnished in soft

subdued tones.

Those to whom an inexpensive carpet is a

sine qud non cannot do better than try the

cord stair carpets sold by the Abingdon Carpet

Co., of Thames WTiarf, Abingdon, which are

both cheap and durable.

Stair Rods for keeping the carpet in place on

each tread are indispensable to the staircase

eqtiipment. They are usually of brass and fit

Stair Eod aud Eyelets.

into specially made eyelets. The thin round

rods are the least expensive ; the price varies

wth the degree of their thickness. The flat

sexagonal brass rods are the most handsome,

and add not a little to the appearance of a well-

carpeted staircase.

LINOLEUMS

The inlaid linoleums are the best, as their

colourings and designs are so worked into the

materials that they cannot wear off or be

obUterated. One of the best of the inlaid

linoleums is that known as " Greenwich

Linoleum." " Duroleum " is also very good

and durable.

The entire hall can be covered to advantage

with Greenwich hnoleum or duroleum. The

pattern should be very judiciously selected.

Needless to say, floral patterns are quite out of

place, the most suitable being the simple geo-

metrical patterns in imitation of tiles or par-

quetry. Linoleum requires to be very care-

fully laid and should be pasted to the floor

with the edges of each breadth fastened by a

few headless brads.

In many houses linoleum is largely used instead

of carpets in all the bedrooms. It is certainly

the most hygienic floor covering for a bedroom,

as it does not accumulate dust and can be easily

swept and washed, and it is at the same time

the least expensive. In bedrooms carpeted with

Hnoleum rugs are usually placed at either side

of the bed and in front of the toilet table.

Twelve square yeirds will be required to carpet

a room 12 feet by 9 feet. The outlay will

therefore be most moderate, and to those with

inelastic purses this is a very important con-

sideration.

Linoleum is also a suitable floor covering for

bath-rooms and niurseries. Cork carpet is also

largely used for these rooms. It has the ad-

vantage of being noiseless to the tread, and in

the opinion of many has a wairmer appearance

than hnoleima. It may be had at 2s. 2d. per

yard, the shades in dark green and dark blue

being particularly effective.

CURTAINS AND BUNDS

The decorative effect of a room can be made

or marred by the selection of its ciurtains in

regard to material, colour, and suitabihty to

the various rooms in which they are placed.

In dining-room and Ubrary, for instance.

Portiere CurtainB.

there shovdd always be curtains of tapestry,

chenille, velvet, serge, or other similar materials.

In the drawing-room curtains of dainty materials

such as lace or silk and the various art linens

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

are most appropriate, whilst light chintz,

cretonne, lace, musUn, and all other Ught

■washable curtains are suitable for the bedrooms.

The cornice poles from which the curtains

are to be hung must also be suitably chosen.

These will form an item in the general cost of

window decoration which should not be over-

looked. Ninepence per foot represents an

average price for a brass pole one inch in

diameter. For brass poles three inches in

diameter 3s. 3d. per foot would represent a fair

price. White enamelled cornice poles are

suitable for drawing-room and other brightlj'

furnished rooms and are cheaper than the

brass ones. Mahogany poles three inches in

diameter suitable for dining-room and study

maj' be had for Is. per foot. For bay windows

Casement Curtains.

the prices are higher. Rings to match these

poles are sold at prices also varying with their

sizes.

Portiere curtains are often hung over doors,

both for decorative purposes and the exclusion

of draughts. They should bo of materials such

as chenille, velvet, silk, or serge, and should be

hung by means of rings to a rod across which

they can easily be drawn backwards and for-

wards. Where there are curtain cupboards in

the bedrooms, the hangings should always be of

cretonne, linen, or other firm washable material

substantial enough to keep out the dust.

Casement Curtains, are now largely used

instead of the ordinary roller blind, so casement

blinds would be tlio more correct name to give

them. They present a very pretty and decora-

tive appearance and look best with casement

windows, but can also bo used with sash windows.

In th" latter case there must always be separate

bUnds for both upper and lower sash. The

casement cuilains (or bUnds) only reach to the

window sills, and the ordinary side curtains

are used with them. Cretonne, cliintz, case-

ment cloths, silk and Bolton sheeting are the

best materials for these blinds. The selection of

both material and coloiu* will of course depend

upon the decoration aiid upholstery of the room

in which they are used.

Arrangement of Curtains. - Much may be done

to improve an ugly-looking window by the

manner in which the curtains are arranged.

A very narrow straight window may be made

to look wider by extending the cornice pole a

few inches beyond the window on each side.

From this the curtains should hang straight

without being looped up in any way. When

two or three very narrow little windows come

close to each other a top valance can be made

to include them as one wide window. From

either side should hang ciirtains of the same

material as the valance, whilst lace casement

curtains hung over the divisions of the other

windows would serve to complete the one

window illusion, giving a pretty casement effect

to the whole. The casement window lends

itself more readily than any other to decorative

treatment. Special fabrics are sold by all

fiu"niture dealers for this favourite type of

window. In this connection it is interesting

to note the great revival in old-fashioned

fabrics including the actual repetition of the

patterns of the quaint chintzes and printed

hnens which were in vogue dviring the seven-

teenth and eighteenth centuries.

The alcoved casement window is always the

most effective. Pretty casement curtains in

two tiers can adorn the windows, whilst the

broad recess may be occupied by a quaint old-

world window-seat of the same material as the

cm-tains and valance by which the alcove

is enclosed.

Blinds. - Venetian blinds, if of good qualitj',

are always suitable and useful as tlie laths can

be easily cleaned. Their use has to a great

extent been superseded however by the more

ornamental linen or holland blinds trimmed

with lace edging and insertion and working on

spring rollers. Very good quality blinds may

be had for eight or nine shillings each, the cost

of the roller depending upon the particular

patent used. Inexpensive linen blinds suitable

for bedrooms may be had for about four shillings.

With most firms the prices quoted for the blinds

include both the measuring and fitting. Blind

materials are also sold by the yard for people

who prefer to make and fix their blinds them-

selves. Furniture firms usually send pattern

books of these materials when applied for, giving

the price per yard and also the price of the whole

blinds including making and fixing.

Mantelpiece Decoration. - The decoration of

the mantelpiece and its surroundings must con-

THE HOUSE

form with the general decorative scheme of the

room. Period furnishing reqxiires that the

cliimney-piece decoration should have a special

treatment, and its decoration should therefore

be placed in the hands of the firm which is

supplying the rest of the fiirniture.

The ugly gilt-edged mirror which formed the

conventional chimney-piece decoration of the

time of our grandmothers is now mercifully

buried in obli\don. Artistic wooden chimney-

pieces and overmantles combined now form part

of the decorative equipment of most tastefully

furnished hoiises. These are constructed of

mahogany and oak or in other dark woodwork

for dining-room and library, and in wood

painted white for drawing-room and morning-

room. The mantelpieces of bedrooms do not

require the elaborate treatment given to those

Illustration showing Artistic Chimney-piece

and Club Curb.

of the reception rooms. Either a picture or

a small overmantle may be placed over the

chimney-piece of the latter, and where the

woodwork is carried up over the mantelpiece

it is only carried up to a very small height.

Where there ai'e no fitted overmantles in

connection with the chimney-pieces of the

reception rooms the latter must be bought

separately. Very pretty overmantles may be

purchased in oak, walnut, mahogany, and wood

painted white.

Mantelpiece drapery is seldom seen now, but

at times it is absolutely necessary to hide an

ugly chimney-piece. In these circumstances

the material used should be as light and graceful

in appearance as possible. Pretty liberty silks

and satins in the delicate art shades make most

effective draperies.

Tiled hearths and marble fenders are much

favoured in present-day house decoration.

Brass and steel fenders should always be kept

Fire-irons.

well polished. A very ornamental type of

fender is that known as the " Club Curb." This

consists of plain brass or iron rails which reach,

at times to a height of two feet and

which are surmounted by an uphol-

stered seat, usually of morocco.

Sometimes the upholstery goes all

round the top of the curb, but more

usually the seats are only at the sides

and corners. A pair of fire-dogs

and the necessary fire-irons, i.e.

shovel, poker, and tongs, should

form part of the equipment of the

fire-place. Very useful for morning-

room, study, and bedrooms are the

little combination set of fia-e-irons

now sold, which fit on to a speci-

ally constructed stand. These are

inexpensive to buy and look very

well. As the stand is of a good

height the fire-irons can easily be taken from it

without having to stoop as in the case of thљ

ordinary fire-dogs.

FURNISHING THE VARIOUS ROOMS

The Dra wing-Room. - This is essentially the

domain of the house mistress, and it is stamped

as it Were with her own individuality. The

woman of refinement and taste makes her

personahty felt not only in the general furniture

scheme of the room, but in the many dainty

Uttle finishing touches without which there

always seems to be something lacking in even

the best furnished drawing-rooms. This some-

thing is invariably absent from the drawing-

room of the wealthy uncultured woman, who,

though she may have had the good sense to

give carte blanche to a reUable furniture dealer

in regard to the choice of furniture, yet fails

utterly in imparting that atmosphere of refine-

ment conveyed by the subtle touch in the arrange-

ment of details which is always characteristic

of the drawing-room of the gentlewoman, how-

ever poorly furnished it may be.

All stiffness and awkwardmess of arrangement

in drawing-room furniture should be avoided.

There should be an air of daintiness and grace

and at the same time of cosiness about the

room. The drawing-room of to-day is not a

room for show but a room for use. It is no

longer thrown open on strictly state occasions,

nor are children nowadays trained to look upon

it as a sort of Bluebeard's chamber only to be

entered upon occasions when both Sunday frocks

and Sunday manners must be domied and the

maxim " Little children may be seen, but not

heard," most rigorously observed. Tliere are

still some middle-clfiss people who keep their

drawing-room as a show-room, only using it on

" At Home " days and for other similar functions ;

but such rooms always wear an air of stiffness

and lack of comfort wliich is often reflected in

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the manner of the house mistress upon the rare

occasions when she is called upon to sit in it in

state to do honour to her guests.

Pretty occasional tables and daintily up-

holstered tapestry settees, one or two cosy

tapestry easy-chairs, a tea-table, a d^a^ving-

room cabinet, an escritoire, and a piano should

be present in every well-furnished drawing-room,

to say nothing of such ornamental accessories

as tapestry screens, flower-pots on stands, and

the innumerable ti-ifles which go to complete the

furnisliing of a really cosy room. Needless to

say, hea\'y furniture of all kinds should be

banished ; everything in the room should be as

dainty and artistic as possible.

Inleiid mahogany and rosewood are largely

used in the construction of present-day drawing-

room furniture. There is much that is French

in the modem style, wliich is of graceful and

refined design. Furniture manufacturers seem

to have taken as their groundwork some of the

best characteristics of the old world styles,

Comer Chair.

Occasional Table.

evolving from them a style particularly suitable

for present-day needs. Drawing-room chairs

are of a dainty spindle-legged design, the pretty

little corner chair being especially typical of

present-day drawing-room suites. Tables are

small, light, and graceful. The needs of the

slender purse are particularly well catered for

by the modern furniture dealer. People of

average means are no longer compelled to

furnish their drawing-rooms with all sorts of

odds and ends, and chairs which quarrel with

each other in both colour and design axe now

seldom seen in even the most poorly furnished

rooms, as complete furniture suites in inlaid

mahogany or satinwood can be purchased

for quite a moderate svun. The less expensive

suit<" do not contain so many pieces as the

more expensive kinds ; sometimes only a settee,

two small chairs, two comer chairs, and a round

table are provided. In these circumstances

the furnishing scheme must be completed by

purchasing by degrees one or two upholstered

arm-chairs, and, if possible, a small sum should

be expended upon one or two dainty little

occasional tables to match the rest of the suite.

A cabinet and an escritoire might also be added

as sooa as the purse allows. The settees pro-

vided with drawing-room suites are always of

the same spindle-legged pattern as the chairs,

and an added air of cosiness will therefore be

imparted bj' the addition of a pretty drawing-

room Chesterfield or some other similar type of

softly upholstered settee or couch. A jardiniere

to match the furniture will also be effective ;

and where a brass standard lamp mth a soft

deUcately coloured silk shade, may be had,

the effect of the pretty subdued light it gives

at night is very pleasing. A little " tea com-

panion," upon which plates of cake and bread

and butter may be handed round at afternoon

tea, is a piece of furniture the usefulness of which

must be by no means overlooked. A tasteful

fire-screen, preferably one draped in deUcate silk,

liberty style, should be placed before the grate.

Tlie clock should be in keeping with the general

daintiness of the room. Very pretty designs

may be had in the refined Sheraton and Chip-

pendale styles for quite a moderate outlay.

An art tapestry screen in a framework of

mahogany or any other wood of which the

furniture may be composed may also be added

with effect. The drawing-room is essentially a

room to which little extras may be added by

degrees, but - and this is very important - the

additions must always be in keeping T\ith the

general furniture scheme.

The larger the room the more advantageously

can the daintiness of drawing-room furniture

be displayed. It is a mistake, however, to

crowd too much furniture into a small room, not

only from the point of view of space, but owing

to the fact that its effect will be completely

lost and the room made to look smaller than

it is.

A small drawing-room should, if possible, be

papered in white. A white satin striped paper

with a very narrow floral frieze would be effec-

tive. (For Drawing-room Decoration, see p. 15.)

Water-colour sketches and delicate engravings

are the most suitable pictures for drawing-room

walls.

A pretty Indian carpet with a light ground

makes a very effective floor covering. Wilton,

Brussels, and Axminster carpets in the lighter

tones are also suitable (see carpets, p. 20).

Where a seamless woven square carpet is

used in a small room plain Japanese matting

■will be found to make a very good surround.

Many drawing-rooms are furnished nowadays

in reproductions of famous period styles such

as Chippendale, Adam, Sheraton, Hepplewhite,

Louis XV., or Louis XVI. Needless to say,

where such a style is adopted everything must

be in keeping. Chairs of one period must not

be mixed up with tables of anotlicr, and a bureau

of still another epoch ; wall papers and carpets

must also be chosen in accordance with the

particular furniture scheme.

Arrangement of Furniture. - A great deal will

depend upon the suitable arrangement of the

THE HOUSE

room. The position of a piano, for instance,

has spoiled the effect of many otherwise well-

arranged drawing-rooms. Very often it is

necessary to place an upright piano against the

wall through exigencies of space. A more

graceful effect, however, is usually obtained by

placing it at a convenient angle. Where it is

an old and shabby-looking instrument the face

of it can be turned towards a corner of the room

hidden from aU but the pianist, whilst the back

can be draped in silk of a delicate art shade.

Whenever an upright piano is placed with its

back turned away from the wall it should be

draped in this manner.

Grand pianos give an air of " finish " to a

drawing-room wliich is achieved by no other

means. A pretty silk cover should be kept

over the top if photograplis or ornaments of any

kind are to stand upon it. It is bad taste to

have too many ornaments or photogi-aphs on a

piano, a panel photograph in a very handsome

frame and one or two choice ornaments being

quite sufficient. It requires

a very large room to show

off a grand piano to advan-

tage. Demi -grands look very

well, and the ' ' Baby Grands ' '

are very suitable both for

large and moderately siz;ed

rooms. Piano-stools are not

now inartistic as of yore.

The high round piano-stools

are things of the past ; more

attention is now paid to both comfort and appear-

ance in regard to this piece of furniture. The

design pictured in our illustration is much in

vogue at present.

Choice of a Piano. - In choosing a piano four

important things must be considered, i.e. size,

volume of sound, tone, and touch. In connection

with the first two the size of the room must be

taken into consideration so that both size and

volume of sound are in proportion. In regard

to tone, where singing is an accomplishment in

the family it must be seen that the piano has a

good singing tone. The pianist of the family

should also try it before it is purchased to see

that it is in every way to his (or her) satisfaction

in regard to touch. There are many makes of

pianos noted for their soft beautiful tones, such

as those bearing the names of Rud Ibach, Sohn ;

Bechstein, Erard, and innumerable others.

Hall, Staircase, and Landings. - Within recent

years good taste in hall furniture has decidedly

increased. There is a leaning towards the

artistic in every way. Instead of the one time

conventional combined hat-rack and umbrella-

stand we find the quaint, old world monk's

settle and the separate umbrella-stand and

neat wall rack for hats and coats. Oak is a very

favourite wood for hall furniture. Imposing

looking richly carved oak settles with chairs to

match are pieces of furniture upon which very

Piano-Stool.

large sums of money may be spent, but the needs

of the shopper with the slender purse have been

by no means overlooked in tliis connection.

Plain artistically designed settles may be had in

fumed oak for as small a sum as £1, Is. ; a neat

fumed oak umbrella-stand can be purchased for

six or seven shilhngs, whilst high-backed oak

chairs may also be had for very moderate

prices. Where there is an outer hall or vestibule

both hat-rack and umbrella-stand should be

Hat-Rack.

placed there. A grandfather's clock is a very

effective piece of hall furniture. It should always

occupy a prominent position near the staircase.

Mats to be placed outside thљ various room

doors should not be overlooked when furnishing

the hall. There should also be a good fibre

mat in the vestibule.

If the hall is a bright one some pictures can

be displayed to advantage upon the walls, also

any military or hunting trophies (see Hall

Decoration, p. 16). Where there is a high

white dado crowned with a projecting rail or

Umbrella-Stand.

sheK, one or two good pieces of china might be

displayed upon this.

Wliere the haU is carpeted staircase and

landing carpets should match the hall carpet.

In high houses, however, the flight of stairs

leading to the servants' room may be covered with

oilcloth. If a tenant is fortunate enough to

seem-e a house with a tiled hall, she will be

spared the expense of purchasing a floor -covering

of any kind, for a few mats will be all that is

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

necessary. One or two pictures may be hung on

the walls of the stair"-ay if the hght is sufficiently

good for them to be properly seen.

WTiere there axe good landings these are

capable of tasteful decorative treatment. In

houses where there is a large alcoved landing

leading from tho first flight of stairs to a side

wing of the house, the alcove should bo prettily

draped with curtains. A low-standing book-

case enamelled wliite could bo placed upon the

side facing the stairs with one or two choice

pieces of art pottery displayed upon it. A

small table and two chairs could occupy the

curtained recess to the left. Tliose who are the

fortunate possessors of some good piece of

statuary might display it here to advantage.

One or two tall J8u:dinieres contsuning palms

Monk's Settle.

■would also be effective. Such a landing, if

cosily furnished, can easily be used as a smoking

lounge. We do not all possess large square

landings, however, but even very tiny landings,

if of the proper shape, can be gracefully treated

by means of hangings and appropriately placed

jsu'dinieres.

There are so very many different types of

halls and landings that it is rather difficult to

lay down hard and fast rules for their treatment.

The ordinary passage hall does not lend itself

to much decoration. Very often there is only

room for settle, hat-rack, and umbrella-stand.

Chairs are really unnecessary where there is a

good oak settle, but they should always form

part of tho hall fiu-niture where there is none.

The Lounge Hall. - This description covers two

widely different types of hall. The large square

hall of the country mansion, with its carved

wood panelling, deep wide staircase, and hand-

some furniture, need not hero be dealt with.

Such halls aire only possessed as a rule by people

with whom money is no object and who can

afford to pay for the most ejqiert advice upon

the question of furnishing. But there is another

type of square haU which is often met with

now a lays, i.e. that which forms a characteristic

feature of tho modem type of bungalow or flat.

In the smaller flats where there is only one

sitting-room a hall of tliis kind has to do duty

as another sitting-room or lounge. In these

circumstances it should be furnished as much

like a room as possible. Screens should be

used to keep off the draught from tho front

door, whilst curtains should hang from the doors

of the rooms wliich lead out into the hall. A

cork carpet in a sliade of axt green could be used

as a floor-covering, with two or three warm cosy-

looking mats scattered over it. Umbrella-stand

and hat-rack should be banished away in some

liidden corner. Near the fire-place might be

placed a glass-fronted cupboard, painted wliite,

in which either dinner or tea-set could be dis-

played. If space permits there might also be a

low wliite enamelled book-case, upon which one

or two pretty vases in Wedgwood blue could

stand. Two low chairs and a cushioned settee

would complete the " sitting-room " illusion.

A bright fire burning in the grate in winter will

increase the homely and comfortable appearance

of the hall sitting-room. In flats with oiJy one

sitting-room such an arrangement wUl be found

not only cosy but convenient. Care must be

taken, however, to reduce draughts to a mini-

mum. All doors leading on the hall should be

kept closed when it is in use and the portieres

drawn well over them.

Dinlng-Room. - Large sums of money are very

often spent upon dining-room furniture with

very poor results. There is a tradition with

most people that the dining-room must be

sombre and heavy looking, and in the effort of

living up to that tradition they often succeed

in turning out a room which is so gloomy in

appearance that to spend any amount of time

in it is to become hopelessly depressed.

This is a great mistake. The dining-room,

it is true, must be furnished in a dignified

manner, but cheerfulness must not be banished

from it. We have gone past the days of the

ponderoiis Victorian sideboard and hideous

horse-hair chairs. All should realise the fact

that our dining-rooms may be dignified and at

the same time pleasing and artistic.

There was a time when the cost of furnishing

the simplest type of dining-room was so great

that people of slender means could seluom

afford to furnish the room outright, but were

forced to pvirchaso the various articles by

degrees. Nowadays things have changed -

furniture manufactiirers supply complete suites

at reasonable prices, as a visit to any of

their show-rooms can prove, and, what is more,

the workmanship is good and the design

excellent.

In former times the design of cheap furniture

was seldom good, hence the public belief in the

" cheap and naisty " theory which is still so

widely spread. It is true iliat to obtain really

good furniture one must pay a good price, but

the fact remains that manufacturers and dealers

THE HOUSE

>rodel Dining-Roora for small Flat (Maple).

A Simple Bedroom {Heal d: Sotis).

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

are studying more and more the needs of those

to whom money is an object, recognising that

it is not of people with unlimited wealth at their

disposal with wliich to indulge their most ex-

travagant tastes that the major part of the

great army of shoppers is composed, but rather

of those who have only a certain sum to spend,

and who must necesstirily keep within its hmits.

Diimer-"Waggon.

First of all, the dining-room must be suitably

decorated (see p. 15). A few well-chosen oil-

paintings and family portraits (if any) may adorn

the walls. Failing these some very good en-

graxings in frames of the same wood as the

furniture. A good Turkey carpet is the carpet

par excellence for a dining-room, but we cannot

all afford to indulge in luxuries of the kind.

Let the carpet at any rate be as soft in

appearance as possible, with a good pile. Oak,

mahogany, and walnut are the principal woods

utilised in the manufact\ire of dining-room furni-

ture. Especially inexpensive, and at the same

time good, furnitiore may be had in what is

known as " fumed oak."

At one time even the cheapest makes of

sideboards cost a fair siun, and so very often

this article of furniture had to be banished from

the list of many a young couple furnishing on

very small means. Nowadaj's a most artistic

style of fumed oak sideboard, something akin

to a Welsh dresser in appearance, may be

obtained for an outlay of only a few pounds.

This type of sideboard is very effective in dining-

room decoration. It is a type also which is

very fashionable at the present time. One or

two pieces of china should always bo displayed

on the shelves, Dutch fashion. Blue or blue

and white china looks prettiest with oak. Of

the expensive sideboards in the old Dutch styles

richness of carving is the chief characteristic.

In most of these glass in any shape or form is

conspicuous by its absence.

A dining-room can be well furnished at a

cost of between £18 and £20, the furniture

inclu'lmg an inexpensive fumed oak dresser of

the kind described, some high-backed fumed

oak chairs neatly upholstered in green leather,

a good oak dining-table, a diiuier-waggon, or

butler's tray, an easy-chair, a small writing-

table, and the necosseu-y equipment in the way

of cloth table-cover, curtains, cornice pole,

fender, fire-irons, coal-scuttle, carpet and sur-

round hearthrug. Where strict economy has

to be practised the easy-chair and the writing-

table may be omitted. Very inexpensive black

iron coal-scuttles, gipsy pattern, may be pur-

chased for a few shillings, and can be made to

do duty whore a better kind cannot be afforded.

A pretty cloth or art serge table-cover can be

made at home for a very small outlay, and

casement curtains may also be made for a

trifling cost by the clever home worker. (See

Furnisliing Lists, p. 30.)

Morning and Breakfast-Room. - These two

titles are bracketed together because in the

generality of houses, where there are but three

or four reception rooms at most, the terms

" morning-room " and " breakfast-room " ere

synonymous. The " breakfast " or " morning "

room may be taken to indicate the most generally

useful room in the house. It is writing-room,

sewing-room, and school-room in turn. Many a

morning is spent in this room by the busy house

mistress in writing letters, going over accounts,

and attending to innumerable small household

details. It is also often the room where the

elder children, emancipated from the nursery,

prepare their lessons, and partake of that ever

favovirite meal of childhood - the five o'clock

tea.

Tlie furniture for the morning-room or break-

fast-room must therefore be chosen with due

Gate-legged Table.

regard to the uses to which it will be put. As

meals are to be served in this room a sideboard

will be necessary. This can be much smaller

and of lighter design than that of the dining-

room. Then there must be a table - a fair-

sized round gate-leg table of fumed oak would

be useful and at the same time inexpensive.

THE HOUSE

&3 a good one may be purchased for about

£3. Fumed oak chairs with rush seats may

be purchased for from 12s. each. In addi-

tion, there should be a large lounge easy-chair

or two small tapestry arm-chairs, a small

writing-table for the special use of the house

mistress, and a book-case or some book-shelves

for the children's school books.

Wliere there are no cliildren, the morning-

room Tvill be probably utilised as her own

special room by the mistress of the house. In

these circumstances she will be able to give

full scope to her taste for dainty and graceful

effects. Chairs may be upholstered in tapestry,

pretty engra\'ings can be hung upon the walls,

and, apart from the sideboard, which is a neces-

sity in a breakfast-room, the whole scheme of

furnishing may be such that it might be aptly

termed a " boudoir."

There are many possibiHties in the f\:rnishing

of a morning-room, possibiHties which must

always, however, be guided by individual cir-

cumstances.

The Library. - ^There should be an air of rest-

fulness about the Hbrary, conducive to read-

ing and study. A flat leather top desk with

drawers on either side should be placed in a

good light. The writing equipment should be

complete in every way - inkstand, pen-rest,

blotter and letter weight, a stand for note-

paper and envelopes and telegram forms and

postcards should all be there and should be kept

neat and tidy. To go with this desk there should

be a low desk-chair - the round leather up-

holstered revolving-chair is the most comfort-

able type. A very large arm-chair in which

the master of the house can lounge at ease

while reading one of his favourite works is also

Flat Library Desk

a necessity in the well -furnished library. Near

this chair should be one of the ever-handy re-

volving book-cases from which the reader may

select a volume at will. A large stationary

book-case will also be necessary. This should

be with adjustable shelves in order that books

of all sizes can be placed upon it. A very good

sectional extending book-case may be purchased

for a little over £3. One or two high-backed

Hevolring Book-case.

chairs should also be in the room, and a good

hassock footstool should be placed neeir the easy-

chair.

In houses where there is Uttle money to spend

upon book-cases and other similar articles of

furniture, much may be done

by the home worker to-

wards its equipment. With

a Httle knowledge of carpen-

tering inexpensive shelves

can be made and fitted

round the walls. These

should always have some

sort of border, not only as

a finish but to keep off the

dust. It may be often

found advantageous to pur-

chase the writing-table from

one of the large oflEice-fur-

nishing firms, as very often

these firms have second-hand goods which they

are willing to sell at quite a moderate sum.

Desk-chairs may often also be purchased in

this way. A httle smokers' cabinet should also

find a place upon the wall.

There should always be dark curtains in the

library - red or green are particularly suitable.

Where there is a portiere over the door it should

be of the same colour as the window curtains.

(For Library Decoration, see p. 16.)

Bedroom Furniture. - The stiffness, ugUness,

and lack of comfort generally which character-

ised the furnit-ure of the early Victorian era,

was in no way more clearly demonstrated than

in regard to furniture for the bedroom.

Happily the heavy, cumbersome high chest of

drawers, the ungainly wardrobe, and the deal

muslin-bedecked table which, svu-mounted by a

looking-glass of the most conventional pattern,

did duty as toilet-table in even the best rooms

of the average middle-class household, are now

things of the past, at any rate with all those

who prefer the present-day artistic furniture

to the atrocities of the early Victorian tradition.

There are still some people, it is true, who, whilst

sparing neither trouble nor expense in the sviit-

able furnishing of dining-room, drawing-room,

and other reception rooms, barely give a thought

to the furnishing of their bedrooms. So long

as the reception rooms are nice anything will

do for the bedrooms seems to be their guiding

principle, and whilst money is spent ungrudg-

ingly upon the decoration of the other rooms

a totally inadequate sum is set apart for the

furnishing of those rooms in which after all they

spend a very considerable portion of the twenty-

four hours.

Happily in these enlightened days there are

comparatively few people who take so de-

cidedly unenlightened a view of things. With

those who do, it must be presumed that tradi-

tion dies hard and that they are simply carrying

on the tastes of their grandmothers. Sensible

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

people are keenly alive to the fact that, apart

from the usual number of hours spent in the

bedroom, intervals of illness are apt to occur

in the hves of every one of us. In these cir-

cumstances should not our bedrooms be as

bright, cheery, and as pleasing to the eye as pos-

sible ? Neither ungainly inartistic furniture

nor hideous wall pa^^er will be conducive to the

cheerfulness of an invalid in that period of con-

valescence, during which a morbid and depressed

state of mind will do more than anytliing else to

retard recovery. On the other hand, a prettily

decorated room, with a bright pleasing wall

paper, tasteful furniture, however simple, and

a cheerj- aspect have more influence in keeping

up the spirits of the invalid and assisting her

to a speedy recovery than one would generally

suppose.

The ideal bedroom has a sunny aspect.

Tliere is something especially exhilarating

about the morning sun. Care should be taken,

however, to see that the rays of the sun do not

beat down direct upon the forehead of the

sleeper on those summer mornings when sun-

rise occurs at a time when she has not com-

pleted more than three-quarters of her full

amount of sleep. Needless to say, suitable

blinds should be provided for every bedroom,

and these should be kept well lowered, or, if

there is a casement window, the curtains should

be drawn. When the plan of the room allows of

such an arrangement, the bed should be placed

so that the window does not face, but comes

to one side of it. In this way the discomfort

of the early morning glare will be avoided.

It is also essential that the bed should not

be placed in a draught. The head of the bed

should never be facing the window, for instance,

neither should the fire-place be on the same side

of the room as the door. If only for purposes

of ventilation, there should always be a fire-

place in the bedroom - an open gas-fire is especi-

ally useful, as it does away with the labour of

setting fires and carrying up coals, and can be

turned off and on as required without invohnng

any trouble.

WTien taking a house a Woman should be

careful in looking over the bedrooms to note if

they contain any fitted cupboards. Tliese are

a boon in every household, and, painted a

pretty white to match the woodwork, they

tidd considerably to the ornamentation of the

room. The presence or absence of these cup-

boeirds should alwaj's form a consideration in

the taking of a house. It is also advisable to

study the structure of the walls. In many

cases where cupboards are lacking there maj' be

convenient alcoves where these may easily be

fitted, or, if money is a consideration, they may

be utilised for making pretty curtain cup-

boards. Suitably placed alcoves are capable of

treatn.ent, by which they may add considerably

to the decoration of a room. An alcove just

over the bed, for instance, lends itself to tasteful

curtain drapery. Where one occurs over the

window it may be treated in the same way.

In the Queen Anne style of house especially,

many of the quaint old-world casement windows

are set into deep alcoves. What prettier effect

may bo obtained than by furnishing the window

with a dainty chintz-covered window-seat, and

draping the alcove with head valance and

curtains of chintz to match that used in the

upholstering of the seat ?

The furnishing of the bedroom should be

studied first of all from the point of view of

hygiene and comfort. Where there is a fitted

carpet to the room, or a square carpet which

goes under the bed, it should be seen that the

mattress of the latter stands at a sufficient height

from the floor to enable the dust to be easily

taken from underneath it. There are many

makes of bedsteads nowadays, more especially

those of the various modern French styles,

which are so low as to almost touch the floor,

leaving little or no space between the floor and

the mattress. Such a style of bed may be

artistic, but it is certainly far from comfortable,

and in no circumstances shoidd comfort be

made to give way to art, the ideal furnituro

being essentially that in which art and comfort

are combined.

Medical authorities have laid much stress

upon the fact that carpets in bedrooms are

merely harbingers of dust and dirt, and there-

fore unhygienic. Tl:ey maintain that there

should be no carpets under beds, as these cannot

always be moved every day for sweeping purposes

and dust is apt to accumulate there because un-

seen. Bedroom manufacturers have, however,

found a way out of this difficultj', and Messrs.

Heal & Sons, of Tottenham Court Road, London,

sell beds which are furnished with patent rails

upon which they can be moved with the greatest

ease.

There is no doubt that linoleum is the best

floor covering for a bedroom from the point of

hygiene. It can be easily swept and washed,

and one or two nice rugs will serve as a con-

cession to the claims of comfort and warmth.

The next best thing would of course be a

square carpet with a linoleum or a stained floor

surround. There are people who object, how-

ever, to the cold look of the bare boards or

of linoleum even if they only appear on the

border of the room. In these circumstances a

plain felt surround to tone with the carpet is

very useful.

The brass bedstead is much in vogue at the

present day. It is not the cumbersome-looking

object of yore, but a well-designed and useful

piece of furniture. Wlien fitted with swinging

Italian wings it can bo prettily draped with

dainty cretonne or other artistic hangings to

tone with the colour scheme of the room.

Draperies of this kind suspended from wings.

THE HOUSE

and wall draperies hung in artistic fashion from

the wall against which the head of the bed stands,

are the only form of bed-curtains used nowadays,

excepting in the case of the old-time four-poster

Bedstead on Metal Tramway.

which is still to be found in many homes, and

revivals of which many bed manufacturers are

placing upon the market. Valances are as a

rule Umited to the latter type of bedstead.

The wooden bedsteads now on the market are

artistic in every way and free from that ugliness

which characterised those of Victorian days. They

are no longer ungainly, cxmibersome pieces of

furniture, too heavy to move and consequently

difficult to clean. Fitted with all the most up

to date improvements, including iron frames

and wire mattresses, they do not now act as

harbingers of dust and dirt. To the many

hygienic disadvantages of the old-time wooden

bedstead may be ascribed the subsequent craze

for anything in metal, however ugly in pattern.

Some of the most ornamental wooden bedsteads

are those of inlaid mahogany in Sheraton style.

Iron bedsteads can be had for the most moderate

outlay. A white enamelled iron bedstead al-

ways looks dainty and clean. It is one of the

best and most useful types of inexpensive

bedsteads, and looks especially well with brass

tope. The ordinary low iron bedsteads are

very suitable for servants' rooms.

Bedding. - It is of the utmost importance that

the bedding should be of the best. Many people

are apt to study show more than comfort when

furnishing their bedrooms, with the result that

the important question of bedding is very often

neglected. It never answers to purchase very

cheap bedding, for the latter is apt to prove

only too dear in the long run. A cheap mattress

is not only uncomfortable, but it is an actual

menace to the health.

Woven wire spring mattresses with good

horse-hair or wool over mattresses should be

used where possible. Good hair mattresses,

however, are apt to be somewhat costly, and

therefore are not always within reach of the

average purse. Good wool mattresses are in-

finitely preferable to cheap hair ones. They

should in all cases be purchased from a re-

liable furniture dealer, preferably from a firm

who make a speciality of bedroom furniture

and bedding, for in this case good value is

assured.

In buying mattresses never be misled by

an attractive covering, which too often hides

much that is deficient in the quality of the

material of which it is comprised. For this

reason it is seldom ad\'isable to purchase what

are described as " bargains " at sales. The

common qualities of horse-hair mattresses are

filled with various sorts of " short hair " which

afford no hold to the " ties," and therefore tend

to move and work into those uncomfortable

" lumps " which so often turn a bed into a

regular instrument of torture. On the other

hand, the fine long horse-hair used in good

Italian Wing-Drapery.

mattresses gives a proper hold to the " ties "

and is kept in place by them. The French

mattresses, which contain a special quality of

hair mixed with white wool, are exceedingly soft

and comfortable. Cheap flock mattresses, which

are made up from any sort of rags, shovild be

alwaj's avoided.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The wii-e mattress should be covered with a

piece of ticking or Hessian to prevent it from

rubbing the hair mattress which is placed over it.

The colour scheme of a bedroom should be

as bright and cheery as possible, and always

chosen with due regard to the aspect of the

room and to the furniture which it will

contain (see p. 16). Whore the hygienic method

of covering the floor with linoleum or cork

carpet is adopted, care should be ta.ken to prevent

t 1 3 room from having a bare appearance by

putting down a number of warm and cosy-look-

ing rugs of as good a quality as can be procured

for the sum available. Everything that tonds

to harbour dust and dirt should be absent from

the bedroom. There should never be an excess

of ornamental trifles and knick-knacks about

the room. Girls are especially prone to collect

these httle ornaments, to the despair of many

a hard-working housemaid.

Furniture. - The best-designed bedroom furni-

ture of to-day combines much of the artistic

effects of the famous epochs in furnitTore history

with a strict attention to convenience of con-

struction as necessitated by modern needs.

Modern bedroom furniture manufacturers also

make a special feature of reproductions from

the antique. Needless to say, when a bedroom

is furnished in accordance with a certain period,

decoration, carpet, hangings, all must conform

with this furniture scheme.

Oak, naahogany, satinwood, rosewood are

very favourite materials for bedroom suites.

There is also a great vogue at present for white

enamelled furniture. This fashion comes as

something in the nature of a blessing in disguise

for the woman with a slender purse, as the

white enamelled suites show a wide range of

prices, the cheaper kinds being procurable for

a few pounds.

Every furnitxire sviito should comprise a

wardrobe, a dressing-table, a wash-stand and

two chairs, although in some of the more

inexpensive smtes only toilet table, chest of

drawers, and wash-stand are included. When

the latter is not fitted with rails for towels a

towel-horse should be provided. It should be

ascertained that the locks of drawers and

wardrobe cupboards are in order, that the

drawers open and shut easily, and that the

inside of each piece of furniture is in as good

condition as the outside. The wash-stand

should have a marble top and be tiled at the

back. A sheet of emdcca might also be fixed

up at the back of the wash-stand instead of the

ordinary " splasher " for the protection of the

wall. A cosy easy-chair and a table should

also be included in the bedroom furnit'ire

where possible. Very daintily upholstered little

tapestry arm-chairs may be obtained at quite

moderate prices. For an inexpensively furnished

room an ordinary basket chair painted to tone

with the furnitiire and with pretty cretonne

cushions can be made to answer the purpose.

A box ottoman daintily upholstered in cretonne

is a most useful piece of furniture, more especi-

allj' in flats where the cupboard accommodation

is necessarily limited. This inay be either

purchased from a furniture shop or fashioned

by the deft fingers of the home upholsterer.

Pretty cretonne, chintz, lace, or other washable

curtains are the most suitable for the bed-

room. Heavy hangings of any kind should be

avoided. The walls should not be covered with

pictures - one or two engra\'ing8 in Ught-coloured

frames will be sufficient.

The toilet-table linen should always be fresh

and spotless. The pretty duc'icsse sets con-

sisting of a narrow lace-edged or hem-stitched

toilet cover and mats are the most suitable

for the present-day type of table. These sets

are often used also for the wash-stand. They

are apt to get very wet, however, if they are

left on during the toilet ablutions, and for this

reason most people prefer to do without them.

The general equipment of the toilet-table in

regard to pin-cushions (well supplied with pins),

hat-pin and hair-pin tidies must not be neglected.

Any silver displayed on the table should be kept

clean and well polished. All these are details,

attention to which will go a long way to secur-

ing the cosy effect in bedroom decorations which

some people find it so hard to achieve.

THE DRESSING-ROOM

The decoration of a dressing-room should con-

form with that of the bedroom which it adjoins.

It should contain a good roomy

gentleman's wardrobe, a shaving-

stand with mirror, also washstand

and suit-case stand. A shaving-

stand is to be preferred to the

ordinary toilet-table, not only be-

cause it takes up much less room,

though this is an important con-

sideration as dressing-room space

is usually limited, but also be-

cause a shaving-glass is much more

easily adjusted to the correct angle

required by the person shaving,

and, being very light, it is easily

moved to any convenient position.

Toilet Ware. - Over-elaboration

of design in toilet ware should

be avoided in tastefully furnished Shaving-Mirror

homos. Artistic yet simple pat-

terns should be chosen. Patterns after the style

of Wedgwood and Spode arc much favoured by

those whose furnishing is on artistic lines. Plain

colours and simple shapes go best with the

present-day style of bedroom furniture. The

self-coloured art wares are largely used, and

with these the quaintly Hhapod ewer with a

spout like that of a teapot is often seen. On

THE HOUSE

the whole, the ewers of a more conventional

design are preferable to these.

In addition to the regular toilet set there

should be a white china slop-pail, a water-bottle,

and a glass in every bedroom.

THE BATH-ROOM

In the bath-room the sanitary fittings should

be beyond reproach. In a rented house this

will of course be the landlord's affair, so when

looking over a house particular attention should

be paid to the bath-room fittings. A good

fitted iron bath of the latest type with taps

for hot and cold water and waste and without

any wooden casing is the best. Iron baths

are preferable to the more luxurious porcelain,

as the latter take a great deal of heat from

the water, taxing the capacity of the kitchen

range to the utmost, whereas with iron baths

the heat of the water is retained. There are

several methods of covering and finishing the

interior surface of iron baths. Of these the

porcelain enamel process is perhaps the most

effective. Where this process has been applied

the interior of the bath presents the same

enamelled surface as earthenware - ^the enamel

is also very durable.

A fitted lavatory basin with hot and cold

Water-supply is very desirable in a bath-room.

Beyond the actual fittings very little furniture

is required. There should be a towel-rail, a

cane-seated chair, a stool, and a rack for sponges

and soap to be hung on the wall next to the bath.

One of the new bath-racks which fit across the

centre of the bath to act as receptacle for the

soap and sponge which the bather is actually

using is also usefiil, as it does away with the

necessity of reaching up whenever anything is

required to the rack on the wall. A cork bath-

mat and one or two warm bath-rugs are also

necessary. There should also be a mirror on

the wall, preferably the regulation bath-room

mirror, with a drawer for brushes and combs.

Cork carpet or linoleum are the best floor

coverings for bath-rooms. (For Bath-room

Wall Coverings, see p. 14.)

FURNISHING A BED-SITTING-ROOM

The bed-sitting-room represents the home of

many a woman worker, who often takes more

pride in the arrangement of the few simple

articles she can call her own and the purchase

of which in many instances have involved

several little acts of self-sacrifice than does the

possessor of the most luxurious furniture which

money can buy.

It is wonderful what good results may be

achieved with comparatively little outlay in the

furnishing of a room of the kind, but necessity

nearly always proves " the mother of invention,"

as the many ingenious yet simple contrivances

which can Tdc resorted to in furnishing a bed-

sitting-room will go very far to prove.

The great object to be attained in furnishing

a bed-sitting-room is to arrange it in such a

manner that it gives no idea of a bedroom during

the daytime. This result is not so difficult to

achieve as one would suppose. Before taking the

room, first of all ascertain that the wall -paper is

not one of those glaring atrocities so often met

with in the present-day lodging-house. If the

room is suitable in every way and the wall-paper is

the only drawback try and get the landlady to

have it re-papered. If she is not disposed to do

so offer to share part of the expense, which will

not be much. Very simple and effective paper

may be bought for an ordinary-sized room at

an entire cost of from 15s. to 20s., including the

work of hanging, and rather than put up with

ugly WaU-paper it will be foimd better in the

long run to bear the cost oneself, if the landlady

is obdurate on the point.

It is well to observe when taking the room

if there are any cupboard fitments. A good

The "Divan" Bed.

roomy cupboard will save the purchase of a

wardrobe which, besides being somewhat ex-

pensive to buy, would go a long way towards

destroying the sitting-room illusion during the

day. If a wardrobe is a necessity then one

of the plain inexpensive bamboo cupboards

without any glass in front would be the best to

purchase. If the cost of a carpet cannot be

afforded, stain the floor with permanganate o£

potash and polish it with bees'-wax and tur-

pentine- ^the cost of this will be very trifling

if you do the whole work yourself. Two or

three pretty rugs may be purchased for a few

sMUings each. A fairly good art square carpet

for a small room may be purchased for about

25s. ; with this only the surround of the floor

need be stained.

The furniture should include a bed which can be

made to look as much like a couch in the daytime

as possible - a perfectly flat bed of the camp

variety without any upstanding head or foot -piece

would do. With this there should be a good

soft wool mattress. The bed should always be

placed against the wall. In the daytime the

bed-clothes can be neatly folded up and placed

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

nnderneath the mattress, and the whole can be

covered with a pretty Indian rug. Arrange on

this one or two cushions and the result is a

very cosy and effective-looking eastern divan.

Special couch beds are now largely sold by

furniture manufacturers.

A small plain deal table with one or two

drawers may be purchased for five or six sliillings.

This should be stained a shade corresponding

Dwarf Cupboard.

with the rest of the furniture of the room and

placed against the wall, and a good-sized

looldng-glass hung on the wall directly over it.

The table will do duty as both toilet-table and

writing-table. In the daytime the brushes and

hand-mirror, together with the toilet-cover and

mats, may be put aside in the drawer, their

places being taken by a neat blotting-pad, an

ink-stand, and the necessary writing materials.

A dwarf cupboard could be made to do duty

as a washstand, the toilet ware being placed in-

side the cupboard during the daytime ; or, if the

conventional wash-stand is preferred, this could

be placed in a corner of the room and com-

pletely hidden by a large screen.

Then there must be a table large enough for

meals. A round deal gate-leg table would be

very useful, as the flaps can be let down and the

table put on one side when the meal is not in

progress. A large box ottoman in wliich clothes

niay be kept should also form part of the fur-

niture ; one or two smaller ones made out of

sugar-boxes and upholstered in cretonne to

match that of the ottoman would also be useful,

acting as handy receptacles for millinery.

At one side of the room there should be a low

table or cupboard which can do duty as a side-

board. The usefulneas of corner brackets and

shelves in a room of this kind cannot be too

highly estimated. A hanging corner cupboard

with a glass door would bo especially useful for

the display of a dainty afternoon tea service

which cannot safely be trusted downstairs. Very

many large general stores, such as Whiteley's

in London, make a special feature of the sale

of white wood articles for carving, poker work,

or tnamelling. Very well-designed pieces of

furniture may be had in this white wood at

a comparatively smaU cost. Thirty shillings

will purchase a pretty cliina cabinet in whito

wood, wliilst a small book-case with glass doors

may be had for even less, and a hanging book-

case 27 inches liigh would cost from twelve

to ^teon shillings. Small book-shelves and

wall-brackets may be bought for from Is. Ud.

and upwards. When properly stained or

enamelled this furnitui-e looks very well indeed.

For an extra change it can be stained at the shop

where it is purchased

Throe or four smaU chairs and one or two

easy-chairs TsdU complete the furniture of the

room. Upholstered tapestry arm-chairs may

now be had for as Uttle as fifteen shillings.

Wicker chairs when prettily upholstered can

be made to look very cosy. When bought

ready upholstered they necessarily cost more

than when the work is undertaken at home.

In the section upon home carpentery and up-

holstery many useful hints are given in regard

to the making of inexpensive little odds and

ends for the home which the proud possessor

ot a bed-sitting-room would do well to study.

Pretty curtains and draperies, dainty table-

Ottoman

cloths, all can be made by the deft fingers of

the woman who takes a pride in making her

surroundings as cosy and dainty as possible,

however heavily she may be handicapped in

regard to means.

Period Pamltnre.- Distinctive style in furnitiu-e

IS becoming cultivated to a very great extent

nowadays, and people who have the means with

which to indulge their taste in this direction

lilco to furnish at least one room in their house

in accordance with one of the famous furniture

periods. Genuine "* antiques " can as a rule be

only indulged in by those with well-filled purses.

Other people, however, may be fortunate enough

to pos.sess one or two pieces of really good

antique furniture which has come to them by

inheritance. These should be cherished as

articles of real value, and placed amongst

surroundings in keeping with their character.

A good piece of furniture is apt to prove some-

what costly at times in the expenditure entailed

by living up to it. A Louis XVI. cabinet, for

instance, will demand that not only the rest of

the furniture in the room but also the decora-

tion be in the same style. It seems superfluous

to remark that no woman of taste would allow

THE HOUSE

such a piece of fiirniture to be placed in a room

furniBhed in accordance with the early Victorian

tradition.

All women should have at least an elementary

knowledge of the chai-acteristics of the various

styles of fm-niture belonging to the famoixs

epochs. Without this knowledge they are apt

to make somewhat glaring errors when attempt-

ing to fvirnish their rooms in accordance with any

particular period. The study of the evolution

of furniture has a fascination peculiarly its own.

Through it the manners and customs of our

forefathers may be traced step by step from the

time when primitive man first began to carve

out of wood or stone those crude implements

suited to his needs, through the centuries of

progression marked by the Gothic, Tudor,

Jacobean and Georgian periods to the Victorian

era (which last, strangely enough, marked a time

of positive decadence in the art of furniture

designs), and thence to the present day.

The connoisseur does not need to concern

herself with the styles of furniture which pre-

vailed prior to the foxirteenth century, however.

The needs of our ancestors in those days were

too simple for the evolution of any really

characteristic style, which could be adapted to

present-day needs. The real evolution of

artistic furniture in this country began with the

Tudor period. Many Italian craftsmen, settled

m England dtiring Henry VIII. 's reign, and the

influence of the Italian Renaissance has left its

mark upon the furniture of the period. The

furniture of the " Jacobean " period has a

dignity all its own. Many people like their

dining-rooms ftirnished in this particular style,

which prevailed during the reign of James I.,

1603 - until the end of the reign of James II.,

1685. It was during the eighteenth century,

however, that English fvtrniture reached its

greatest degree of artibcic perfection, and it is

with this period, therefore, that collectors are

most concerned. It gave birth to such artist-

craftsmen as Chippendale, Adam, Hepplewhite,

and Sheraton, whose names will ever live in the

annals of furniture design. Contemporaneous

with these famous English styles were the

French styles of Louis XV., Louis XVI., the

Directoire, and the First Enapire.

As has been already remarked, during the

Victorian era art in furniture went through

a marked decadence. The furniture of this

recent period is marked by its stiffness, un-

gainliness, and general air of discomfort. It

may safely be said that connoisseurs of the

future will not readily advocate a revival of the

Victorian style.

Those who wish to make a study of the char-

acteristics of the best periods in furniture cannot

do better than read some good books upon the

subject. Mr. Edwin Foley, in his book entitled

" Decorative Furniture," traces the evolution

of artistic furniture from the most remote times.

explaining the main characteristics which dis-

tinguish the art of each particular period. Much

valuable assistance is given to the collector by

the many coloured illustrations of the various

styles wliich are to be found throughout the

book. She should also make a point of visiting

museums and other places where specimens of

old furniture may be seen ; such as the Victoria

and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London ;

the Royal Scottish Miiseum, Edinbixrgh, and the

Dublin Museum. For French decorative furni-

ture in particular the Jones Collection, South

Kensington Museum and the Wallace Collection,

Hertford House, Manchester Square, should be

visited.

SOME FURNISHING ESTIMATES

Tlie following Hsts, giving suggestions in

regard to the best way of spending two fairly

representative sums of money on the furnishing

of a small house or flat, will prove useful to the

young couple who are about to furnish a home,

and who reqtiire guidance not only as to the

furniture to be purchased, but also in regard

to the cost of the various articles. The first

Ust of this has been compiled by Messrs. Maple

in connection with a ninety guinea model flat

displayed at their show-rooms. The second

scheme for furnishing a house for £300 has also

been largely compiled from information obtained

from the same firm -

THE NINETY GUINEA FLAT

The sum of ninety guineas is apportioned

amongst the various rooms as follows : -

£ s. d

Dining-room 1853

Drawing-room 22 17 6

Bedroom 20 19 1

Servant's room .4 3 3

Bath-room 17 3

Hall 343

Kitchen . 2 1 5i

Linens, blankets, &c 7 8 4

China and glass 3 6 7i

Electro-plate and cutlery .... 5 5 2

Ironmongery 6 1 10

£94 10 0

The following lists give detailed expenditure

for the various rooms : -

DINING-ROOM

£ 8. d.

Seamless tapestry carpet (12 ft. by

9 ft.) 266

Linoleum surround (say) 8 yds. at

Is. ip 9 0

2 pairs casement curtains with rod

and fittings 17 6

Qoth table-cover ....... 10 0

Black curb fender ...,,,. 76

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

£ 8. d.

Set of fire-irons 4 6

Coal-sooop 10 0

Fumed oak sideboard 4 8 6

Dining-table (3 ft. 6 in. by 6 ft.) ..250

1 Elbow-chair with rush seat ... 1 2 6

4 Small chairs with rush scat at

13s. 9d. 2 15 0

Oak side-table 17 6

1 Lounge easy-chair 13 6

Hearth-rug 8 3

£18 5 3

Dra wing-Room

, . £ 8. d.

Axrmnstor pile carpet (12 ft. by 9 ft.) 4 4 0

Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at

Is. l^d 11 3

2 pairs of Mapleton damask curtains

with rods and fittings .... 1 6 U

Curb fender ... 76

Set of fire-irons 4 6

Brass coal-scoop 10 0

2 " Neston " easy-chairs upholstered

in tapestry at 22s. 6d 2 5 0

1 " Neston " settee upholstered in

tapestry 1 18 6

1 Arm-chair with tapestry seat ..110

2 Small chairs with tapestry seat at

13s. 9d 17 6

Inlaid mahogany cabinet 4 15 0

Inlaid mahogany centre table . . . 1 12 6

Inlaid mahogany occasional table . . 9 9

Mahoganj' escritoire 2 5 0

£22 17 6

Bedroom

£ 8. d.

Felt carpet planned to room (say) 12

yds. at 38. 9d. 2 5 0

2 pairs cretonne casement curtains with

rods and fittings 18 4

Curb fender 7 6

Set of fire-irons 4 6

4 ft. 6 ins. Bedstead, white and brass .18 9

Wire-woven mattress 10 6

Sanitary pad 5 9

Extra thick wool mattress .... 1 1 1 6

Feather bolster 10 0

2 Pillows at 6s. 9d. . . . [ [ . * 13 q

Decorated white bedroom suite, com-

prising dressing-chest with jewel

drawers, double wash-stand, ward-

robe, bevel plate glass mirror,

pedestal cupboard, towel-horse,

and 2 chairs . 10 5 0

Double set toilet ware 13 6

Easy-chair 12 9

Bed furniture 12 6

£20 19 1

Servakt's Bedroom

Linoleum for covering floor .... 99

Bedside rug ^ 3 q

2 ft. 6 in. iron bedstead and wire mat-

tress, wool mattress, pad bolster,

and pillow complete .... 1 7 9

Japanned oak wash-stand .... 53

Simple set of toilet ware 3 6

Japanned oak chest of drawers with

dressing-glass fixed 15 6

Cane -seated chair 2 6

Japanned oak towel-rail 19

Fender * 3 6

£4 3 3

Bath-Room

Covering floor with linoleimi . . .

Cane-seated chair

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings

Bath-mat ....

8. d.

4 6

3 6

17 3

Hall

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings

Fumed oak umbrella-stand .

Fumed oak hat-rack ....

Linoleum for covering floor (say)

Black fender

Fumed oak settee . .

£3 4 3

Kitchen

Id.

16| yds. linoleum at Is

4 ft. kitchen table . . .

2 Kitchen chairs at 2s. lOd

Kitchen fender ....

£2 0 11

Linens, Blankets, &c.

1 pair blankets (84 by 104 in.) .

1 Under-blanket

1 White quilt [ ]

1 Down quilt

2 pairs cotton sheets at 10s. 6d.

2 pairs pillow-cases at 2s. 4d. .

1 pair blankets for servant's bed .

1 Under-blanket

1 Coloured quilt

2 pairs cotton sheets at 58. 1 Id.

1 pair pillow-cases

£ 8. d.

17 9

4 6

12 9

17 6

1 1 0

4 8

8 11

2 11

3 11

11 10

1 11

THE HOUSE

2 Damask table-cloths (2 J by 2 yds.; £ s. d.

at 5s. Ud 11 10

6 Napkins for 3 9

6 Huckaback towels for 4 9

3 Bath towels at Is. lid 3 4^

6 Servants' towels at 6^d 3 5

6 Tea-cloths for 2 11

6 Glass-clotlis for 2 6

6 Dusters for 2 0

2 Kitchen table-cloths at Is. ll^d. , 3 11

2 Roller towels at Is. l|d 2 3

£7 8 4i

Cutlery

6 Table knives for

6 Small knives for

1 pair meat-carvers

1 pair game-carvers

1 Steel

6 Electro-plated table forks for .

6 Electro-plated dessert forks for .

4 Electro-plated table spoons for .

6 Electro-plated dessert spoons for

6 Electro -plated tea spoonB for . . .

2 Egg spoons

1 Butter knife

1 pair sugar tongs

2 Electro-plated sauce ladles at 2s. 6d.

1 Electro-plated cruet with mustard

spoon

2 Electro-plated salt spoons at 9d. .

Electro -plated teapot

£5 5 2

China and Glass

£ s. d.

Dinner service for six persons . . 16 0

Tea and breakfast service for six

persons 120

Service of glass for 6 persons, viz. : 6

port glasses, 6 tumblers, 6 sherry

glasses, 2 decanters complete . 9 3

Water-bottles and glass for bedroom 1 5

Water-bottles and glass for servant . 10

China and glass jor kitchen use -

6 Plates, assorted sizes .... 16

1 Vegetable^ dish 2 3

3 Dishes for 2 9

1 Sauce boat 6

2 Breakfast cups and saucers at

5^d 11

2 Plates at 3d 6

1 Sugar basin 4

I Milk jug 7

1 Salt cellar 3^

2 Tumblers 5

1 Set of 3 jugs 13

2 Pie dishes 16

2 Pudding bowls

1 Teapot 6d., 2 store jars for Is. 5d.

1 Bread pan

a. d.

1 2

1 11

1 3

£3 6 7J

Ironmongery {Kitchen List)

1 Bath (galvanised)

1 Bowl (hand)

1 Bread grater

1 Cake tin

1 Chopping board

1 Clothes horse

1 Coal scuttle

1 Coffee canister

1 Coffee pot

1 Corkscrew

1 Colander

1 Set of dish mats

3 Dish covers : 1 each, 3s. 6d., 63. 3d.,

1 Dvist pan o . .

1 Egg slice

1 Egg whisk

1 Fish kettle

1 Fish slice

2 Iron spoons for ........

3 Tea spoons , .

1 Set steps

1 Slop-pail

1 Tea canister

1 Tea tray

1 Tin-opener " . .

1 Toasting fork

1 Glass tub (pulp) .......

1 Nutmeg grater

1 Gravy strainer

1 Housemaid's box

1 Tin kettle

1 Iron kettle .........

1 Knife board

1 Knife tray

3 Knives and forks (table) ....

1 Galvanised pail

2 Flat irons for

1 Flat iron stand

1 Flour dredger

1 Flotu" tub

1 Frying pan

1 Funnel

1 Paste board .

1 dozen patty pans .......

1 Pepperbox

1 Plate basket

2 Plate leathers

1 I^tchen poker

1 Rolling pin

1 Salt box

3 Iron saucepans, 1 each. Is. 4d., Is. 9d.,

2s. 9d

6 10

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

£ 8. d.

1 Enamelled saucepan 1

1 Set skewers

1 Soap-dish

1 Towel roller and brackets .... 1

1 Wire sieve

3 Wood spoons

Brushes-

1 Hair banister brush 1

1 WTiisk brush 1

1 Long hair broom 2

1 Carpet broom 2

1 Dusting brush 1

1 Nail brush

1 Scrubbing brush 1

1 Bass scrubbing brush

2 Plate brushes for 1

1 Set shoe brushes 2

1 Set stove brushes 2

1 Sweep's brush

£6 1 10

£300 HOUSE

Summary

£ a. d.

Hall 9 13 3

Dining-room 55 4 0

Drawing-room (with piano) . . . . 84 13 3

Moming-room 18 14 11

Best bedroom 32 16 8

Spare bedi-oom 19 8 5

2nd spare bedroom 14 17 11

Servants' bedroom 9 13 0

Kitchen 4 7 2^

Bath-room 1 14 3

Plate and cutlery 9 0 0

Linen and blankets 17 18 5

China and glass 8 0 0

Ironmongery and extra fittings . . 10 0 0

£296 1 3^

This leaves a balance of £3, ISs. 8^d., wliich

will go towards any extra expenditvu-e upon

clocks, cushions, portidres, and fancy table-

covers which have not been included in our

lists.

DETAILED LISTS

Haxl

18 yds. stair and landing carpet at

4fl 3

2 doz. rods, eyes and pins

Covering floor with linoleum (say) 12

yds. at Is. 6d

Hat"ack

Fumed oak settle 1

Fumed oak umbrella-stand ....

Rug

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings

Fender

£ s.

1 8

17 6

£9 13 3

DiNEsra-RooM

£ s. d.

Axminster pile carpet 12 ft. by 12 ft. .040

Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at

Is. lid. 13 6

2 pairs casement ciu-tains with rod and

fittings .136

Table-cover 15 0

Pierced steel fender 110

Set of fire-irons 9 0

Coal-scoop 110

Mahogany sideboard 8 17 G

Mahogany 2-tier serving-table ... 2 10 0

Dining-table 4 12 6

6 mahogany small chairs upholstered

in morocco at 22s. 6d 6 15 0

Easy -chair upholstered in tapestry .440

Easy-chair upholstered in tapestry .350

Mahogany occasional table . . . . Ill 6

Mahogany escritoire 4 116

Mahogany book-case 7 10 0

£55 4 0

MOBNINQ-ROOM

£ a. d.

Seamless tapestry square carpet 12 ft.

by 9 ft 2 6 6

Linoleum surround 9 0

2 pairs curtains with rod and fittings . 17 6

Ciirb fender 7 6

Set of fire-irons 10 0

Coal-scoop 5 0

4 small rush-seated fumed oak chairs

at 13s. 9d. each 2 15 0

Fumed oak sideboard 4 8 6

Easy-chair 150

Hearth-rug 8 3

Gate-leg table 2 0 0

Sectional book -case 3 2 8

£18 14 11

Drawing-Room

£ a. d.

Axminster pile carpet 10 ft. 6 ins. by

9 ft 4

Felt surroimd (say) 12 yds. at Ss. 9d. . 2

Pierced fender 1

Set of fire-irons

Brass coal-scoop

2 pairs casement curtains with rod and

fittings 13 6

THE HOU^E

Inlaid mahogany Sheraton cabinet .

Inlaid mahogany writing ....

Piano 1.* '

Piano-stool with velvet cushion . •

Inlaid mahogany circular table . . •

Settee upholstered in tapestry . • ■

Easy-chair № ' . ' ' '

1 Inlaid mahogany elbow-chair . . .

4 Inlaid mahogany small chairs at

223. 6d

1 Inlaid mahogany occasional table .

Hearth-rug

Screen

8 17

2 17

40 0

1 2

2 5

5 7

2 12

1 17

4 10

1 6

3 2

Kitchen

Covering floor with linoleum

4 ft. kitchen table ....

2 Kitchen chairs at 6s. 6d. .

1 Windsor chair ....

1 Carpet deck-chair . . •

Alarm clock

Coal hod

Strong shovel

Kitchen poker ....

Bug

£84 13 3

£ 8. d.

£4 7 2*

Bath-Room

Covering floor with Unoleum . . •

Cane-seated chair

Glass with drawer for brush and comb

Bath rack

Bath mat

£1 14 3

Bedroom

w 12 ft. . .

£ 8. d.

. 3 12 0

Double set of toilet ware ....

Easy-chair . 12

Hearth-rug

Occasional table •

1 set of bed draperies to match curtains

Oval Sheraton mirror

Screen

Linen basket

£32

Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at

Is. Hd

Curb fender

Set of fire-irons

2 pairs casement curtains with rod and

fittings 1

4 ft. 6 in. brass bedstead ^

Wire-woven mattress

Sanitary pad

Hair mattress -

Feather bolster

2 Pillows • • ■

Inlaid mahogany bedroom suite, com-

prising : - Wardrobe, dressing-

chest with glass, washstand fitted

with cupboard, and towel -rail and

two chairs 12

Spare Bedroom

Caledon carpet 12 ft. by 9 ft. . . .

Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at

Is. Id. •

2 pairs Mapleton damask ciirtains with

rod and fittings

1 set of bed draperies to match . . .

Fender

Set of fire-irons

3 ft. White and brass bedstead . . .

Wire-woven mattress

Sanitary pad

Hair mattress

Bolster

Feather piUow

White bedroom suite, comprising : -

Wardrobe, dressing-chest, with

glass, washstand fitted with towel -

rail and 2 chairs

Single set toilet ware

Hearth-rug

Easy-chair

Occasional table

Linen basket

Second Spare Bedroom

Fumed oak bedstead with wire spring

mattress 2

Sanitary pad

Hair mattress 1

Bolster

Feather pillow * ' *

Fumed oak smte comprising : - 2 ft.

6 ins. wardrobe, 2ft. 6 ins. dressing-

table, washstand, and one chair .

Oak shaving-stand

Easy-chair

Set of toilet ware •

2 pairs casement cm-tains with rod and

fittings

Clothes-basket

Linoleum to cover floor (12 by 9) . .

2 Rugs at 73. 6d. each

9 0

£19

8. d.

4 9

3 9

7 6

6 0

9 0

15 6

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Servants' Bkdroom (2 7naid8)

£ s. d.

Covering floor with linoleum ... 99

2 Bedside rugs GO

Two 2 ft. 0 ins, iron bedsteads and

wire mattresses, wool mattresses,

pads, Ijolsters, and pillows com-

plete at £1, 73. 9d. each ... 2 15 6

2 Painted chests of drawers at £1,

9s. 6d. each 2 19 0

2 Painted washstands at 12s. 6d. . . 1 5 0

2 Painted dressing-glasses at 4a. 6d.

each 8 9

2 Painted chairs at 4s. 3d. each . . 8 6

Double set of toilet ware 7 0

Fender 3 6

1 pair casement curtains with rod and

fittings 10 0

£9 13 0

(For Ironmongery, see p. 37.)

(For China and Glass, see p. 37.)

(For Electro-plate and Cutlery, see p. 37.)

LETTING A FURNISHED HOUSE

Speaking generally, it is unad\asable to let a

well -furnished house. To do so is to place your

precious household goods at the mercy of

strangers, who will not appreciate them or care

for them as you do. Dilapidations and break-

ages of various kinds are bound to occur, and

even if their money value is received, there

are some things that cannot be replaced in the

owner's estimation.

Very often, however, a woman finds it ab-

solutely necessary to let her house. She may

be called abroad, and might not care to leave

the house shut up or in charge of a caretaker.

Again, the finances for the annual holiday might

depend to a great extent upon her abiUty

to let it. In these circumstances, therefore,

she must take the utmost precautions to ensure

that it is lot to careful tenants. Tlie house

should bo put in the hands of a good agent,

who will see that all the formalities in regard

to suitable references from the prospective

tenant are proceeded with, and who can make

judicious inquiries apart from these references.

The agent will charge a commission upon the

amount received for rental, together with fees

for drawing up agreement and taking inventory.

An inventory has always to be taken of every

piece of furniture, plate, and linen left in the

house. Wliere the house is large it may some-

times take a whole day to go over this carefully.

The mistress of the houso should see that this

important piece of work is properly done, draw-

ing the agent's attention particularly to articles

she wishes to be carefully noted.

It is usual to leave a certain small supply

of plate and linen ; but the bulk of this with

other cherished articles should be locked care-

fully away. A very large cupboard or a room,

sometimes both, should be reserved for locking-

up piorposes, and the agent should see that the

doors of these are carefully sealed.

If the furniture is very good, never let the

house to people with young children, as these

are often responsible for a great deal of damage.

Dogs, if not under proper control, also often

cause a large amount of wear and tear. It is

as well to have a clause inserted in the agree-

ment that no dogs must be kept without the

landlord's consent. This consent shovild not,

however, be unreasonably withheld. Many people

would not dream of taking a house without

taking their pets with them. Let it be impressed

upon the tenants, therefore, that they will be

held responsible for any additional wear end tear

which the keeping of these pets might entail.

Before letting the house it should be thor-

oughly cleaned from cellar to attic, and the

chimneys should be swept. The tenant should

also leave it as clean in every way as when he

(or she) took up the tenancy.

QUARTER DAYS

English

Lady Day Mar. 25

Midsummer June 24

Michaelmas 1 Sep. 29

Christmas Dec. 25

Scotch

Candlemas Feb. 2

Whitsuntide May 15

Lammas Aug. 1

Martinmas Nov. 11

Half-Quarter Days

Feb. 8, May 9, Aug. 11, and Nov. 11.

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

There is an old and very true saying that " knowledge is power." Nowhere does this maxim

more fittingly apply than in the case of the woman who is thoroughly acquainted with every

detail of the work of the home, and knows how the various domestic duties can be most efficiently

and, at the same time, most expeditiously performed.

Even to the woman who is so comfortably endowed with this world's goods that she can

afford to maintain a staff of highly trained servants at liberal wages, a knowledge of house-

wifery is an invaluable asset. Then hers must be the brain to supervise and direct the smooth

running of the household machinery, to see that each servant performs conscientiously and efficiently

the work allotted to her, that the whole establishment is maintained in that perfect working order

which is a typical feature of the good housewife's regime.

In this section each phase of the servant question is carefully considered. The duties of the

mistre&s in regard to the treatment and management of servants and the proper organisation and

supervision of their work are clearly outlined, as are also the duties of each servant in accordance

with the number kept. Useful information is also included in regard to the engagement of servants,

prevailing scale of wages, allowances and hoHdays.

DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS

Knowledge of Housewifery Advisable. - Like

every other profession the profession of home-

making reqtiires a certain amount of training

and apprenticeship. It is quite a mistaken

notion to think that housewifery comes in-

stinctively and naturally to every woman, and

that the woman who is unfitted for any other

career in life can stay at home and " keep house."

Domestic skill can oni^' be acquired by training.

Whatever other calling a girl or woman may

choose to select, be it ntu-sing, teacliing, medi-

cine, art, or any other of the professions open to

women, both time and money are expended in

order to qualify her for her career. Why should

housekeeping be left out when training in this

is just as essential, seeing that the happiness and

comfort of so many will depend upon her fulfilling

her duties in an intelligent manner ? A woman

who has no knowledge of the right way to

manage a house has no more right to marry and

be responsible for her husband's worldly goods

than a man would have to accept a post the

duties of which he was qiiite ignorant.

A servant is quick to grasp the fact when her

mistress is not versed in the arts of domestic

science, and quicker still to take advantage of

the ignorance thus displayed. She knows that

there is no trained eye to detect flaws in her

work ; that a room half dusted will seldom

evoke a protest - a table carelessly or slovenly

laid will as often as not pass unheeded. The

mistress will be made to suffer in many little

ways for her ignorance in respect to house-

hold duties until by bitter experience she will

awaken to the realisation of the fact that know-

ledge is indeed power, and strive to learn what

she should have known when she first began to

reign as mistress of her own home.

To the girl who is destined to begin married

life in such humble circumstances that she will

not be able to afford to keep even a general

servant, ignorance of the rules of household

work is apt to become something in the nature

of a calamity. An untidy, ill-kept home, to

say nothing of iU-cooked meals, is not conducive

to the good temper or cheerfulness of a husband,

more especially when he comes home after a

hard day's work to find chaos reigning supreme,

and that atmosphere of discomfort which few can

analyse, and only those who have experienced

it can understand. Indeed, it may be said that

many a little " rift within the lute " has been

occasioned by nothing less prosaic than the

lamentable ignorance of her household duties

displayed by the young wife.

Training in housekeeping may be acquired in

different ways. Firstly, a young girl may be

trained in her own home under a good mother

or guardian, and this is the best training of all.

The training may be given gradually tlu"Oughout

early life by allotting her little home duties to

perform and teaching her the importance of the

small things on which the comfort of the home

depends. Or, if the greater part of the girl's

life has been spent away from home in a boarding-

school, then the training may be given in a more

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

concentrated form when the school life is over.

The practical nature of a real home training is

of much greater value them any isolated courses

of lessons, which may be taken later on in life.

Training can also be swxjuired at one of the

numerous schools of Domestic Science now

estabUshed in vai'ious parts of the countrj%

and if only sufficient time is allowed this is

another excellent way of learning various

branches of household routine. Finally, know-

ledge can be gained by experience, but this un-

fortunately may be at the expense of needless

worry and anxiety not only to oneself, but to the

other members of the household as well.

Modern housekeeping requires an expert and

not an ignoramus, and there should be nothing

degrading about having to look to the ways of

one's household. In fact, it will generally be

found that the better educated and the more

intelligent a woman is, the higher will be her

housekeeping capacities. A sound knowledge

of household details does not tie one more to

one's own four walls, but it enables one to get

the best results with the least expenditure of

time and energy.

Oversight and Inspection. - ^It is the duty of

the mistress to see that her house is kept as

spotlessly clean as it is possible to make it.

Etich part must receive her attention, not only

the principal rooms of the house, such as the

sitting-rooms and bedrooms, but the kitchen,

scullery and servants' bedrooms as well.

She must also see that food is neither wasted

nor thrown away. This will necessitate a daily

visit to the larder (see p. 101), and even the

scrap-pail and dust-bin must not escape her

notice. Constant watchfulness in this respect

is all-important, and if a mistress thorouglily

understands what ought to be, she will detect

waste from the beginning and be able to put it

right.

Sinks and lavatories must also be included in

the tour of inspection, and if there is any un-

pleasant smell it must be seen to at once.

It will also be the duty of the mistress to see

that the locking up of the house at night is

attended to - that all low windows and doors

of unused rooms are locked and back and front

doors bolted. She must see that silver is care-

fully put away, and that all fires are in a safe

condition to leave.

Order and Arrangement. - The wheels of

domestic mewliinery will not run smoothly

unless the mistress is orderly and methodical

in all her arrangements.

She must first of all have a clear idea of what

she wishes to have done, and then make her

plan accordingly, so apportioning the work

among the different workers that for each detail

some one person is responsible. There must

be a fair division of labour, so that too much

does not fall to one person and not su£Scient

to auotlier.

There must also be a proper time for every-

tliing and everything should be done in its time.

Punctuality and method will contribute essen-

tially to the comfort of the home, and if house-

hold work is systematised there will be little

fear of friction or neglect.

It is impossible to draw out a model plan which

will suit the requirements of all households, so

much depends upon the size of the house, the

number of the family, the style of living, and the

means at disposal ; it therefore rests with each

mistress to devise her own particular working

scheme. She may not always succeed in

attaining her ideal, but she can at least have

a certain standard at which she aims and

which she does her best to attain. This amount

of method must not prevent departure from

routine should circumstances require it. It

must always be remembered that rules are made

for people not people for rules, and the mistake

must not be made of subordinating everything

to the keeping of the manage.

If there is one thing worse than an uncom-

fortable and disorderly home, it is the house-

hold where order and system are carried to such

a pitch that all those pleasantly diverting pur-

suits, which tend at times to upset the general

arrangement of things, are reduced to a nunimuin

in order to avoid unnecessary work, to save the

carpets, keep the furniture in good condition,

or something else of a like nature. This is to

make a desert of a home.

Order and system shovild be silent factors

which do not obtrude themselves, necessities

which are best kept out of sight, but which act

none the less as drops of oil on the machinery

of domestic routine.

Daily Duties. - ^The duties of the mistress of a

household are very numerous and very varied,

and it will be well for her to try to draw out a

plan and time-table of her own daily routine.

The extent of her duties will naturally depend

upon her income, the staff of servants at her

disposal, and the size of her household.

To house the members of her household in

comfort and health, to feed them properly and

nurse them in sickness, to keep household

accounts, to engage servants and allot to tach

their proper share of work, and to do the work

herself when occeision requires, are amorig a

few of the duties which ^v^ll rest upon her

shoulders.

Details of the variovis branches of work for

which she will be responsible will bo found

under their respective headings, such as The

House, The Table, Nursing, &c., and it is hoped

that the instructions there given will prove

helpful to the woman who desires to be a real

home-maker.

The Duty of Cheerfulness. - Cheerfulness is one

of the most valuable of possessions ; it is really

the sunshine of life, the promoter of health and

happiness. To be able to keep up the spirits

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

of those around us not only adds to the bright-

ness of the home, but helps to make all duties

comparatively light and easy. It is a woman's

duty to make the life of the home as happy and

gay as possible, and however depressed she may

sometimes feel she ought to struggle against the

feeUng and not damp the spirits of those around

her.

No one can be more trying than the person

who continually gives way to low spirits, going

about with a martyr -like expression, and making

a habit of airing her grievances at every meal

or family gathering. Such a person is a constant

source of irritation to the other members of the

household.

Unfortunately, it is often upon the home-

loving woman that the little worries, the small

contretemps of daily life weigh most heavily.

She takes it too much to heart if her house is

not so spotlessly clean as she would like, or if

her well -planned arrangements have been upset,

and she finds it difficult to look at things from a

right perspective.

It requires some strength of will to grapple

against this spirit of worrpng and getting

depressed, but the home-maker ought to think

of others before herself and do her utmost to

keep these Uttle troubles in the background.

Health and happiness are a thousand times

more important than all the spotless homes in

the world, and to worry over every speck of dust,

over every broken dish, or such-Uke trifles will

only result in greater miseries, broken-down

nerves, and prematiu-e wrinkles and old age.

Home Touches. - ^The duties of the mistress

are not finished when the routine of household

work is set agoing and cleanliness and order

havo been established. The little finishing

touches, the smal^ elegances, the tasteful

arrangement, the special provision made for

individual comfort must come from her or be

wanting altogether. She must endeavovu" to

make the rooms as pretty as possible and give

to them an air of repose and restfulness. Who

does not know the difference between a room

that is merely kept in order by a servant and

one in which the lady of the house takes an

interest as weU. It is perhaps attention to the

small tilings of the house that has the most to

do with the comfort of it, and it is just these

minor details that require the most thought, as

they are outside the ordinary routine. If they

are neglected or forgotten all the cosiness, all

the home feeling and soothing influence will be

gone and bare utility alone will remain.

The true home-maker is also one who has the

intuitive power of divining the tastes and feelings

of others and who is ever ready to minister to

their needs. With a ready tact she will put

herself in the place of those around her, will be

able to perceive their unspoken worries and

disappointments, and sympathise with them

^vithout remark. She will even be able when

occasion arises to shield them from unkindly

notice or an ungenerous remark. Tact of this

kind is perhaps innate, and yet much of it may

be acquired by observation and kindly feeling.

Women are the real home-makers, and it rests

with them to make the four walls in which they

live something more than a mere dwelling.

Happy is the woman who can so surround her

own fireside with the true spirit of home, as to

make it the spot where the brightest and most

desirable of everything is to be found, a harbour

from all outside cares and worries ; she will find

that not alone to herself, but to those around

her as well, it has become the best place in the

world.

Duty towards Herself. - Last but not least, it

is the duty of the mistress to take care of herself

and attend to her health. However busy she

may be, she ought to contrive to have a period

of leisure and to be out of doors for some time

every day. Self-sacrifice in the cause of duty

may become almost a fetich with many women.

No woman, however, is justified in making

herself a domestic drudge. She confers no benefit

upon any one by being a slave to her family and

to her home. The best house-mistress is un-

doubtedly the one who allows herself time for

both relaxation and diversion, realising that with-

out it not only her health, but also her nerves

and her temper would suffer in the long run.

The head of the house must also find time for

her own toilet and make the best of her personal

appearance. There is no occasion for her to

wear costly apparel tinless she can afford it,

but she must always be neat and wear what

suits her and looks attractive. A lady cannot

expect servants to look up to her and pay

attention to their dress if she herself goes about

in slovenly attire ; in this, as in everything else,

she must be the example to be copied.

Beyond the Home. - We often hear it said that

if a woman does her duty in her own home this

is all that can be expected of her. But this is

a very narrow view to take of life, and such a

limited existence is bad not only for the woman

herself, but for the other members of her house-

hold as well. In fact, the reason that so many

heads of famiUes break down in health is because

they wrap themselves up too much in the cares

of their own household and worry so much over

every trifle that it ends in their requiring a rest

cure or something of the kind.

A woman ought, as a responsible member of

society, to use her powers to help and encoxu-age

those beyond the borders of her own home.

If she did this, even to a small extent, she

would find that the strain of constantly thinking

of household affairs was very much relieved,

and that she gained strength for renewed effort.

Then there are social duties to perform -

the paying of calls, the giving of entertainments,

the cultivation of friends, &c., and these are

claims which cannot be neglected. If we shut

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

ourselves up from our friends and live entirely

within our o^m small circle we very soon become

narrow-minded and end in being forgotten.

ENGAGING SERVANTS

There are several different ways of obtaining

servants. If one can be heard of by recom-

mendation, either tlirough friends or through a

servant in one's employment, tliis is certainly the

most satisfactory and easiest way, but it is only

occasionally that one is favoured by such a

chance.

Then there is the registry oflBce, which may or

may not be good. While there are offices of

high standing, where business is done in an

honest and upright manner, there are many

others whose deaUngs can by no means be

rehed upon. As a rule, city registry offices

are of little use for supplying servants for the

ordinary middle -class household, as they cater

more for hotels and other large estabhshments ;

and while they may have on their boolcs a long

list of butlers, cooks, lady's-maids, parlour-

maids, and other specialists in domestic service,

the cook-general, house-parlourmaid, or general

rarely seeks for a situation through that channel.

A good suburban registry office may, on the

other hand, render valuable assistance, especially

if a girl belonging to a special district is required.

A well-drawn-up advertisement inserted either

in a local paper or in a good general newspaper

with a wide circulation is one of the best means,

and this method often enables one to have a

better choice. The wording of the advertise-

ment must be concise, and at the same time it

must neither be vague nor misleading. A few

particulars as to requirements should be given,

and it should be stated whether the applicant

is to write or to apply in person and at what

hour. The following specimen advertisements

may serve as a guide to those who are inex-

perienced in this work : -

General Servant. - For small flat, three in

family, must understand plain cooking, no

washing. Wages £16-£18. Good health and

references essential. Apply after 4 p.m.

Cook General. - Wanted immediately, small

house, four in family. Wages £18-£20. Late

dinner. Age 25-30. Apply after 7 p.m.

Parlour- maid. - Wanted 1st July, good at silver

and needlework, a little housework. Age 22-28.

Wages £20-£25. Three servants. Apply

Young girls trained in domestic work can also

be obtained from charitable institutions, but

this plan should not be resorted to unless one

is prepared to devote a considerable amount of

time and trouble to their training. Although the

girls have had training of a kind in their institu-

tion, they are as a rule quite unaccustomed to

the nicfties of a private house, and are apt to

be very uncouth in their manners. There is

difficulty, too, in getting other servants to take

kindly to a girl of this class, and not infrequently

it proves an unhappy arrangement on both sides.

It is always wise to have a personal interview

with a ser\'ant before engaging her. This not

only helps tlio mistress to judge of her character

by her appearance, but it also enables the girl

to see the house to which she may be asked to

come, and gives her a better idea of the work

that will be expected of her.

The mistress should begin the interview by

asking the maid some questions as to what

experience she h£is had, how long she remained

in her last place, and what reason she had for

leaving it - what wage she had been hav-ing, and

what she would now expect. Some inquiries

should be made regarding the girl's family and

also whether she has good health or not. Atten-

tion should also be paid to her personal appear-

ance, whether she is clean and tidy in her

person, neatly and suitably dressed, and of a

prepossessing manner. If the information thus

obtained is in the main satisfactory, the mistress

should next give an outline of the duties she

would expect her to perform, and if after a little

mutual conversation the arrangement seems

hkely to suit both parties, details may be

entered into a little more fully.

A servant must never be engaged under false

pretences, and it is never a wise plan to make

things appear better than they really are. It is

better policy to make it quite clear what will be

expected in the way of work, so that there may

be no chance of futiore misunderstanding.

Some information should be given as regards

the habits and customs of the family, the number

of servants kept, and the amount of entertaining

likely to be done. Tlie mistress should also

state her wishes as regards dress, caps, aprons,

&c., and whether she will allow visitors or not.

The question of wages must also be discussed

and a clear statement must be given as to what

time will be allowed off and what holiday will

be given, also what notice must be given

should either party wish to terminate the

engagement. If a cook is being engaged, there

should be a clear understanding about perquisites.

The first conversation in a matter of this kind

counts for a great deal, and there is nothing like

making everything clear at the outset.

If a maid has been asked to come some dis-

tance in order to have this interview, it is usual

to pay her expenses.

With regard to references, a personal inter-

view with the maid's last employer should bo

obtained if possible. There are a few occasions

on which a written character may be safely

accepted, but these should be the exception

and not the rule, and written particulars should

be accepted with a certain amount of caution.

Besides, ladies will always give more information

verbally than they will by writing, and there is

always something to be gained by seeing the

house in which the girl has been previously

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

employed, as this also serves as an index as to

what has been expected of her in the way of

service. In fact, it is never a very wise plan

to take a servant who has been employed in

a house out of one's own rank in life. For

instance, a servant who has been employed by

a lodging-house keeper, by small trades-people,

or even in an hotel is not suitable for private

service with gentlefolk, as she would be unac-

customed to the ways of refined people. Each

branch of service has its own standard, and

what may be ideal in one Une of life, falls very

far below the ideal in another.

During the above interview the mistress should

ascertain the reasons for the maid leaving her

place and also her capacity for work. She must

also make inquiries as to her moral character,

whether she is clean, neat, good-tempered, also

whether she has good health and is an early riser.

If the answers to such inquiries prove to be

satisfactory and the mistress considers the girl

likely to suit her requirements, the next step

is to write to the maid or to ask for another in-

terview in order to fix the date of arrival, and

to make the final terms of engagement. In

Scotland and the North there is an old-fashioned

custom of giving arles or earnest money as a

token of engagement. The sum of 2s. or 2s. 6d.

is given to the maid as seahng the contract.

But this is merely an old custom and not a

necessity.

The usual custom of hiring a servant is from

month to month ; this means that they are paid

once a month and the engagement can be

terminated on a month's notice. (See Law of

Master and Servant, p. 377.)

Character-giving. - Although a mistress cannot

be compelled to give her servant a character, it

is customary to do so when a girl is leaving her

employment. The fact of refusing to grant a

reference would almost imply inability to testify

to any good qualities in the girl's character,

and this would be most prejudicial to her future

career.

A character must not, however, be given

lightly ; it is essential to state only what is true.

There must be no exaggeration either of the good

or of the bad points, and the mistress in search

of a maid must be considered as much as the

maid herself.

A mistress has no right to hide some serious

fault from a desire to give the girl a better

chance, but she must be absolutely frank and

impartial in every way. (See Law of Master and

Servant, p. 377.)

WAGES, ALLOWANCES, AND HOUDAYS

Wages. - The wages of an indoor servant

should be paid monthly, dating from the day

the maid enters your service. Or, for con-

venience sake, where there are several servants,

a fixed date may be chosen, say the 1st of the

month as general pay-day. In this case, the

odd days when a girl arrives would have to be

paid for separately. Wages must always be paid

regularly, and under no circumstances should

a servant be obhged to wait for her money.

The amount payable as wages varies very

much in different localities, and one has to

conform very much to custom in a thing of

this kind. The wages in town are usually

higher than those paid in the country.

The following table may serve as an approxi-

mate guide as to what is usually paid : -

Butler £45- £90

Housekeeper

Cook .

Cook-general

Parlour-maid

Housemaid .

House-Parlour-maid

Kitchen-maid

Scullery-maid. .

General Servant .

Lady's-maid

Footman

Valet .

Tweeney

Hall Boy .

30- 80

20- 40

18- 25

16- 25

16- 20

15- 25

12- 20

8- 14

10- 25

25- 50

20- 30

30- 50

10- 16

9- 12

Licences. - An annual Hcence is required for

each man-servant in addition to wages (see

p. 384).

Board Wages. - When servants are left in

charge of a house during the absence of the

family, or if they are sent away temporarily for

the same reason, it is usual to put them on board

wages. This means that in addition to their

regular wage they are paid a sum ranging from

7s. 6d. to 123. 6d. for a woman-servant, and from

12s. to 15s. for a man-servant per week as food

money. The amount varies according to the

style of Uving, and the district in which they

are Uving. Wlien several servants are left

it is very usual for them to club together and

for one, generally the cook, to do the catering ;

but this is a matter of arrangement amongst

themselves. If they are obhged to find their

own accommodation as well as board, an extra

allowance should be paid for lodging or the fare

paid to their own homes.

Food Allowances. - In a small household where

only one or two servants are kept it is not

usual to have food allowances. In fact, the

less difference there is made between the meals

of the family and those of the servants the better.

When there are several servants it is very

customary to make an allowance of such articles

as tea, butter, and sugar, but here, again, unless

there is a large estabhshment it is seldom wise

to make a difference in the quaUty of these

commodities, unless it be tea, where a special

brand such as China tea is frequently used for

the dining-room and another, better liked by

the domestics, is given for kitchen use. Other-

wise to give an inferior quality of anything to

the servants only leads to discontent, and. the

sa\'ing of expense is scarcely noticeable.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The usual allowances for tea, butter, and sugar

are the following : - J lb. tea, i lb. butter, and

1 lb. sugar per week for each servant.

As regards the different meals, the following

is a very usual rate of allowances : -

Breakfast. - Tea, bread and butter and por-

ridge (if wished) with some little addition, such

as dried fish, egg, or boiled bacon. There are

some houses whore this addition is not granted,

but this is poor fare when we consider that a

girl is expected to do a morning's work on the

strength of this early meal.

Lunch. - This is not a recognised meal, but

when breakfast is taken very early, a little

bread and butter, with a cup of milk or a cup of

cocoa, should not be denied, especially as some

girls are unable to take much breakfast.

Dinner. - Tliis meal is usually the same as the

dining-room lunch or early dinner, and consists

of moat with at least one vegetable, and pudding,

or soup and cold meat with a little cheese or

stewed fruit.

Tea. - Bread and butter with a little jam or

dripping cake in addition to tea.

Sapper. - Cocoa or coffee with bread and butter

and cheese, or the remains of any salad, savoury,

or simple pudding left from dinner. Meat is

never given unless there are men-servants, but

a basin of soup may sometimes take the place

of the cocoa or coffee.

Laondry Allowance. - If the washing is not

done at home, servants are usually allowed from

Is. to Is. 6d. for their laundry bill ; if the lesser

sum, some of the smaller articles would require

to be washed by themselves.

Holidays and Time Off Duty. - There is no hard-

and-fast rule as regards this, and it is best for

each mistress to arrange the naatter with her

maids. The usual allowance is an evening or

afternoon once a week with an afternoon and

evening on alternate Sundays ; while a fort-

night's holiday in the year is very general.

TREATMENT OF SERVANTS

It is most important that when a new servant

arrives, the house, or her department of it at

least, should bo in good order. It is very

disheartening to have to commence by cleaning

out cupboards and clearing away some one

else's disorder before any good work can be

started.

In small houses the mistress should take the

maid round and show her where her work

will be. and whore she will find the necessary

implements to perform it. A list of her duties

should be written on a card and hung in some

convenient place, such as the kitchen or pantry,

and it will be just aa well to have the time off

duty stated on the same card. The details of

the m:"id'8 work should be given her by degrees.

There is no use confusing the girl's mind by

telling her too much at once; the necessary

instructions for the first day^s work will be

quite sufficient to begin with. For the first few

days a Uttle patience and forbearance will be

necessary until the girl learns the ways of the

household and the wishes of her employer, and

allowance must be made if everything is not

done exactly as one would wish.

Then, lat"r on, though a mistress cannot ex-

pect perfection, it is her duty to see that the

work is properly and regularly done, and if

anything is wrong, to speak about it at once

and not allow it to shp. This should always

be done in a kindly spirit and without any

show of temper. In fact, if she is very much

annoyed about anything, it is much better to

wait until the first feeling of vexation has passed

over and she is able to speak calmly and firmly

without showing unnecessary vexation.

A servant should never be corrected before

a third person, neither should a message of re-

primand be sent through a child or a fellow-

servant.

Then, again, it is a bad plan to be constantly

going after a servant and doing oneself any

work that may have been slurred over or omitted.

Tliis is fi-equently done to save oneself the

trouble of speaking, but it will not make a

capable nor a reliable maid. A girl ought to

be given a reasonable amount of work to do

and then held responsible for its fulfilment ;

if it is found to be more than she can properly

do it is much wiser to relieve her of some of it

than to have the constant feeling of dissatis-

faction.

Above all things, a mistress must make an

effort to be absolutely fair and consistent, and

there should be nothing underhand in her deal-

ings. By these means she will have a bettor

chance of obtaining faithful service. A good

servant likes to feel that there is a firm hand

over her, and that the mistress notices whether

her work is well or badly done.

While reproof should be given when necessary,

praise must not be withheld when work is well

done. A word of commendation is very wel-

come to all of us. To those who clean oufrooms,

cook our food, brush our boots, &c., we cannot

be too grateful, as, at the best, it is monotonuiis

work, and one's maids are certainly due more

consideration than is frequently given. They

are not aU demons trjnng to " do us " at every

turn, but human, often very human, and they

should certainly be treated reasonably and their

rights respected.

As we exact and expect civility and courtesy

from our maids it is only fair that we should

render them the same. A fear of familiarity

should never be an excuse for a curt answer, nor

justify the omission of " please " from oui'

requests, nor a word of thanks for any service

rendered. Neither should we be reluctant to

wish them the common salutations of " good

morning " and " good night."

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

Servants who are treated with this courtesy

of manner will, as a rule, like their place and try

to render faithful service.

It is also fitting that well-perfoi-med duties

which tend to make the home happy and com-

fortable should be rewarded by Utile kind-

nesses- a gift now and then in acknowledgment

of some special service or at a special season,

such as Christmas or on return from a holiday,

or an occasional hoUday or treat. A httle

encouragement of this kind goes a long way

towards making the drudgery of housework

pleasant and easy.

One should not be backward either in raising

the wages of a girl who has worked well. If she

has been in our service for a year or eighteen

months, she is worth more than when she first

came, and the rise will be appreciated so much

more if it is given unsought. Then when a gift

is given, let it be something that shows a httle

kindly thought - a length of print, a mushn

apron, or a pair of stockings are very useful and

sensible, but they are not pretty, and every

girl who is earning a fair wage ought to be able

to afford these necessaries. How much nicer

would be a Uttle handbag and ptirse, a pretty

work-basket, a set of toilet brushes in a case,

or sometMng which she would not Ukely buy

herself, wliich would show the friendly thought

and serve as a httle keepsake.

There is much said nowadays about the dis-

like of the lower classes for domestic service.

One reason to account for this is the increased

education which they receive in the elementary

schools. This naturally creates a spirit of

independence and a wish to rise in the social

scale, which is not altogether unworthy. An

employer, to be successful, must therefore take

this new spirit into consideration and make

allowances for it by respecting the rights of those

who serve. Many mistresses fail to move with

the times, and cannot see that the requirements

of the working-classes are altering, and that

more hberty and more wages is demanded.

Fortunately, much is being done to raise

domestic service to a higher level, and it de-

pends very much upon the employers whether

these efforts succeed or not. If the mistress

herself despises household work, and allows it

to be seen that she looks down upon those who

do it, it will not be surprising if her domestics

cultivate the same ideas. On the contrary,

she ought to be able when necessary to take part

in the household work without in any Way losing

her dignity.

A lack of leisure and want of privacy are other

reasons for making domestic service unpopular.

It frequently happens that a maid has no time

she can call her own, and that she is continually

under the eye of her employer. Now although

there is no hmit regarding the working hours

of a servant, beyond the fact that she must be

allowed a sufficient time to sleep, this does not

entitle us to demand service without relaxation.

A certain amount of leisure must be granted

and then strictly adhered to. An effort, too,

should be made to make this leisure time happy

by letting servants have a comfortable place to sit

in. Often the only means of freedom from work

is to go out of the house, no matter what the

weather is hke. A few boolis or magazines or

even the daily paper sometimes might be passed

on to the kitchen with advantage.

Then a certain amo\int of privacy is due,

especially at meal times. Servants have a right

to take their meals free from interruption, and

they should not be called away if it can possibly

be avoided. Although a mistress should feel

free to enter her kitchen at any time, she ought

to choose her times for doing so and not be con-

tinually passing in and out. -

Allowing a servant her independence does not

prevent a mistress from taking a kindly interest

in her affairs, and she must remember, too, that

from the time the girl enters her house until the

hour she leaves it, she is morally, although not

legally, her guardian. It is an exception when a

girl resents being spoken to as a fellow-woman,

and yet some mistresses hesitate to do this

and thus fail to win respect and affection.

Servants should be encouraged to tell their little

ailments, and to say at once when they are not

feehng well. It should be seen that they go

to bed in good time and that they take proper

and sufficient food.

It is especially necessary in the case of a

young servant to exercise this supervision, and

particularly so if she has been brought a long

way from her own home and her own people.

Then it will be the duty of the mistress to ascer-

tain where she is going to spend her time off.

In fact an " evening out " should scarcely be

granted unless she has friends to go to or can

go out with a fellow-servant. An effort should

rather be made to let her go out during the day

until she has made the acquaintance of some

respectable girls with whom she can be trusted.

A word might be said here about servants'

bedrooms. The places in which some maids

are asked to sleep are a disgrace to civilisa-

tion, and not infrequently it is in the houses of

the wealthy that the worst accommodation is

found - underground bedrooms which, besides

being dark and airless, are sometimes damp eind

insanitary as well. For her own sake as well

as theirs a mistress should see that her maids

are provided with proper sleeping quarters, and

each servant mtist have her own bed, a good

mattress, and sufficient covering. The room

itself should be hght and airy, and it must be

cleaned and attended to in the same way as the

other rooms of the house. A servant herself

is not always fastidious and particular about

her room, and will sometimes be lax as regards

the cleaning of it, but none the less we must

see that sufficient tirne is given to clean it and

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

that our wishes in this respect are carried out.

There is no reason either why the servants' bed-

room should be the only ugly room in the house -

a place to hang useless pictures and store un-

sightlj' pieces of furniture. A pretty wall-paper

or, better still, a washable distemper of a nice

colour, a nice clean coverlet on the beds, tidy

furniture, &c., is a training in itself and helps

to increase the girl's seK -respect.

And, finally, let us treat our servants with a

spirit of trust and confidence, and we shall

seldom have reason to regret it. For instance, a

too strict locking up of daily necessaries is not

always a good plan, as it shows a lack of con-

fidence which a good servant will often resent,

while a dishonest one will find a way of being

dishonest whatever precautions we may take,

and she is better out of the house. Besides,

for one's own sake, it is bad to live in an atmos-

phere of suspicion and watchfulness. Human

nature is the same all round ; the best in us

responds to trust, and the worst rises to the sur-

fewje if we are constantly being rubbed the

wrong way. Servants, like other people, would

often do better if they were trusted more.

DUTIES OF SERVANTS

In drawing up a scheme of servants' duties

it is not possible to make a plan wliich wiU

suit all requirements, as every household has

its own individual arrangements and no two

are exactly ahke. All that can be done is to

furnish a broad outline of the work which

requires to be done, and the following para-

graphs must be looked upon as suggestive only.

It is to be hoped that they will serve as a guide

to the inexperienced and help them with their

manage until they have gained sufficient know-

ledge to make their own plan.

The amount of work to be done before break-

feist by the different maids must depend upon

the hour of that meal, and if before 8.30 or

9 o'clock some of the duties put down in the

following lists must be delayed until later in

the morning.

There has been little or no provision made for

home washing, but where this is undertaken it

must be looked upon as the special work of the

day and time given for it in accordance with the

amount to be done.

The exact time for doing the various pieces

of work has not been stated, because, as a rule,

it is a bad plan to tie a worker down in this

way and to say that a certain piece of work has

to take a certain time, and so on ; it makes

her grow into a sort of working machine, and

takes away from her all responsibility.

If the servant is active she has no inducement

to work quickly if she finds that her spare

moments are just filled up with more work, and,

on the othor hand, if she is slow it is very dis-

couraging to find that her work is never finished

at the time oxi)ected.

The Cook. - The cook, as her name impUes,

is the one who prepares and cooks the food of

the household. She is the chief servant in the

kitchen, where she reigns supreme.

There are different grades of cooks. First we

have the Professed Cook, who is only found in

lajge estabUshments. In former years a chef

or man cook frequently filled this post, but

women cooks have now come more to the fore,

and a chef is rarely employed in a private

manage. Tlie professed cook has always one

or two maids under her - (kitchen-maid and

scullery-maid) - to whom she assigns the cleaning

of the kitchen premises, the preparation, and

possibly the cooking of vegetables, the cooking

and serving of servants' meals and also nursery

meals if there are such, while she devotes herself

to the higher branches of cookery only, assists

the mistress in drawing up the necessary menus,

and orders the stores required for her department.

She does no cleaning nor housework, but is

waited on by her underUngs.

Then we have the Good Plain Cook, who in

large households, where there are a number of

meals to be served, will undertake all the cooking

that is required and the cleaning of the kitchen

and kitchen premises. Sometimes she will have

the help of a charwoman once a week to do the

heavy cleaning or scrubbing, or that of a

" tweeney," a young girl who divides her time

between the house and the kitchen, working

generally londer the housemaid in the morning

and under the cook from lunch time onwards.

She may or may not undertake the cleaning of

her own bedroom, but beyond that will do no

work in other parts of the house.

And finally we have the Cook-General, who is

usually found in middle-class households, where

only two or three servants are kept. Her

duties extend somewhat beyond the kitchen.

She is expected to take some share in house-

work proper, such as the cleaning of the dining-

room or library, the cleaning of the front hall,

door-step, and brasses, and to give some assist-

ance to the housemaid.

Qualifications Necessary. - There are certain

quaUties necessary to the making of a good

cook, whatever her grade may be. She must

first of all have some knowledge of cookery

more or less extensive according to what is

required of her. She should at least know

thoroughly what she professes, and if it be only

the simplest cookery, it must be good of its kind,

palatable, and nicely served. She must also be

punctual in all her duties, and especially so in

the serving of meals. There is nothing which

upsets the ways of a household so much £is having

meals served at uncertain hours, and for this

the cook is usually responsible.

It is edso important that a cook be clean and

tidy in her work. All the kitchen premises and

utensils should be kept spotlessly clean, and

while cooking is going on there should be tidy-

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

ing up and clearing away at the same time.

An untidy and littered kitchen is very dispirit-

ing for other servants, even if the cook herself

does not mind the disorder. No good work

can be done in a muddle ; in fact, the best cooks

make the least mess and use the fewest utensils.

The kitchen should be tidied up after every

meal and made to look as bright and comfort-

able as possible, especially in the afternoon

when the heavy part of the day's work is usually

over.

A cook should also be an early riser. With her

rests the lighting of the kitchen fire, upon which

the hot-water supply for early morning baths,

&c., depends, not to speak of the cooking of the

breakfast. The amount of actual work done

before breakfast will naturally depend upon the

hour at which the meal is served, but unless

an early start is made the cooking of the break-

fast will be hurried and unsatisfactory, the

water will only be tepid, and the rest of the work

will be behindhand all day. The other servants,

too, look to the cook as an example of what is

required in this respect, and if she rises late

the others wiU doubtless follow her lead.

Method and forethought are also valuable

quahties for a cook to possess, as by their practice

the labours of the day can often be considerably

lightened. In cooking so many little things

can be prepared in advance, and if the bill of

faxe is known a day beforehand one day's work

can often be fitted in with another's. Then,

when it comes to the actual cooldng of the meal,

the cook must consider carefully what dish

requires the longest time, and so arrange that

everything is ready at the hour appointed.

Forethought, too, in the ordering of stores and

provisions may save many a worry and bustle

at the last minute. Then, again, in the matter

of breakfast it is often possible to prepare what

has to be cooked the night before, so that if

anything should happen in the morning to make

her a httle late, the first meal may still be

prepared with a calm mind.

And last, but not least, a cook ought to have

consideration for her fellow-servants, and al-

though the kitchen is her domain, there is no

reason why it should ever be a place where

others are afraid to enter, and where she acts as

tyrant. On the contrary, she should do her

best to make the place cosy and comfortable

for them, as it is often their only resting-place

when they have a Uttle leisure to sit down. It

is the cook's duty, too, to see that the kitchen

meals are served properly, and while it is right

that she should have no interference with the

larder, she must pro\'ide a sufficient supply of

well-cooked food and that which has been

ordered bj' the mistress herself. A word of

warning, too, is sometimes required to cooks

who have young servants working under them,

as they are often tempted to put an undue

amount upon tliem, especially of the heavy

work, while she herself does only what requires

Mttle output of strength.

Personal Appearance. - A cook should pay

special attention to her personal appearance,

and specially from the point of view of cleanH-

ness and neatness. Her hair must at all times

be neat and not allowed to come beyond bounds.

There is nothing more revolting than to see a

woman preparing food with her hair hanging

round her head in an untidy fashion, or, what

is worse still, brushing or combing her hair in a

kitchen.

A cook should always try to keep her hands

in good condition, and they must always be

washed before any cooking is commenced.

Gloves should be worn when doing any dirty

work, such as the flues, the grates, and the

cleaning of tins. In winter-time, if the skin

is inclined to become very rough, a little gly-

cerine should be rubbed in occasionally.

A dress of washing material, such as print,

drill, or galatea should be worn in the early peurt

of the day ; in fact, there is a large amount of

cooking to be done in the evening, and as the cook

is not expected to leave her kitchen, it is very

usual for her to remain in her cotton dress.

Or she may if she chooses wear a hght print

dress in the morning, changing to a darker

cotton one in the afternoon. Cotton, being

easily washed, is a much more suitable material

for Idtchen use than any woollen stuS.

The dress must be short enough to clear the

ground by two inches. White linen aprons

with bibs should be worn while cooking, and

these should be furnished with a good-sized

pocket. White hnen sleeves, too, are sometimes

slipped on, but a shorter dress sleeve or one

that can be well rolled up is in many ways

preferable, as the white sleeves to the wrist

become very soon soiled, and in warm weather

are very heating. A strong coarse apron should

be donned while doing the rougher work or

standing at the sink. A neat and simple cap

should also be worn. If the cook has very Uttle

cooking to do in the evening, it is usual for her

to dress in a dark navy blue or black dress, and

to wear a muslin apron hke the other house-

servants. Tidy and comfortable shoes shoiild

be worn at all times.

Duties of the Cook. - It is the duty of the cook

to do all the cooking that is required either

single-handed or with the help of a kitchen-

maid or scullery-maid. Then beyond this her

duties will vary according to the mmaber of

servants kept and the style of living of the

household.

Although it is impossible to draw out a plan

which will suit all cases, the following table of

duties may serve as a guide where the cook takes

a share in the work of the house. In larger

establishments where the cook's ser\'ices are

entirely confined to the kitchen it is very easy

to delete the other duties, and the order of the

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

remaining work would continue in very much

the same way.

Duties of the Cook-General. - Rise at six, strip

bed, and leave bodroom airing. Dowiistairs at

6.30. Open up kitchen premises and air where

necessary. Light kitchen fire and clean range.

(If the boiler is not a self-filling one, it should

be filled the night before.) Fill kettles with

water, and if there is anything for breakfeist

which requires long cooking, such as porridge,

put this on to cook before leaving the kitchen

and leave other tilings ready for breakfast as

far as possible.

Then go to dining-room, draw up bUnds and

open windows, clean fire-place and light fire if

necessary. Sweep room with carpet-sweeper,

dust it carefully and fill coal-box. Sweep and

dust hall, clean doorstep and brasses and shake

mats.

Then serve kitchen breakfast and prepare

what is required for the dining-room. Clean

gentlemen's boots and sweep any backstairs or

passages.

Qear away dining-room breakfast things, and

take up crumbs. Wash all or some of the

dishes.

Tidy kitchen and larder, and be ready to

receive mistress. In the forenoon prepare and

cook early dinner or luncheon and prepare late

dinner as far as possible. Dust and tidy cook's

bedroom and commence any special work of the

day.

Answer the front-door bell untU 1 o'clock, wliile

the housemaid is engaged upstairs, and attend

to any messages which come to the back-door.

Serve lunch, then kitchen dinner and wash

up, leaving kitchen tidy. It is usual for the

cook to wash the dinner service used in the

dining-room, although glass and silver are done

by the housemaid. Finish special work of the

day, and dress if there is no late dinner or a very

simple one. Kitchen tea.

Prepare and cook late dinner or supper and

coffee if ordered. Wash up (this can often be

done while the meal is going on, and need not

be a troublesome matter). Ivitchen supper.

Leave everything tidy for the night and fuel

ready for lighting fire in the morning. The back-

door should be locked as soon as it is dark and

windows the last thing before going to bod.

Bed at 10 o'clock.

Special Weekly Duties. - Besides the daily

routine some special cleaning should be under-

taken each day so as to keep all in order.

This might be arranged in somewhat the

following manner : -

.Vo';u/av- Downstairs windows.

rtte^dai/- Backstairs and passages.

Wediiesday- Clean dining-room and hall alternate

weelcs.

77i"r"daj/- Clean tins, brasses.

Frida}/- Larder and cupboards.

.Saturday- Kitchen (flues before breakfast).

Notes. - The above plan prc^iiipposos that the

dining-room breakfast is at 8.30; if eai'Uer some

of the housework must be left until that meal

is over.

It is sometimes customary for the cook-

general to help the housemaid with the beds

except when there are young ladies in the house,

when they generally undertake this piece of work.

The clearing of the breakfast-table and wash-

ing of some of the dishes is also frequently done

by the ladies of the house, especially if the family

is large and only two maids are kept.

The cook-general is often expected to do some

washing, such as all the kitchen towels and

dusters, her o\vn we.shing, and sometimes the

flannel washing as well. When this is the case,

this should be done on Monday or Tuesday and

be regarded as the special work of the day. It

should be started as early in the forenoon as

possible, the cooking being made as simple as

possible that day, and a little extra help might

be given by members of the household.

The cook-general is also expected to take the

housemaid's duties when the latter has her

evening out or her free time.

The Nurse. - See under Section " The Child."

The Housemaid. - A housemaid is employed to

do work about the house and more especially

in the bedrooms and sitting-rooms. This work

will vary according to the number of servants

kept and the style of hving. In larger estab-

lishments where there are many bedrooms and

a constant coming and going of visitors, there

may be several housemaids - an upper house-

maid and two or three under -housemaids. In

this case the upper housemaid would be respon-

sible for and supervise all the work done in the

bedrooms and sitting-rooms, although most of

the actual cleaning and all the rough work would

be undertaken by the junior maids.

The upper housemaid would do the lighter ami

more difficult work in the principal rooms, would

see that the bedrooms were properly prepared

for guests, answer the bedroom bells, and

attend to the wants of the ladies of the house.

Sometimes she is required to act as lady's-

maid to her mistress if there is no special maid

for this purpose. She would take charge of

the bed-linen, giving out the necessary supplies,

and keeping an accurate account of the stock.

She would also take charge of all curtains and

hangings, cushion-covers and table-covers, see

that the suitable articles were in use and all

kept in good order. She might also have time

for some of the mending.

It would be her duty to take early tea and

water into the principal rooms in the morning,

and again give the necessary attendance in these

rooms throughout the day and in the evening.

Some of the locking up at night might also

fall to her share.

The under housemaids would do all the

cleaning proper, such as the sweeping, dusting.

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

and scrubbing. The cleaning of the bath-

rooms, lavatories, and housemaids' pantry, the

cleaning of all grates and the Ughting of fires.

If there is a school-room or nursery it would be

the duty of one of them to do all the cleaning

and waiting required in that department. The

junior maid would also have charge of the

servants' bedrooms and back staircase. The

boot cleaning, too, would be shared by the under-

housemaid unless there was a boy or man em-

ployed for the purpose.

In smaller households where only two or three

servants are kept, the housemaid will have to

do the work of the bedrooms single-handed,

and the sitting-rooms are generally divided

between the different maids. She may or may

not have some mending to do ; this will depend

upon the extent of her other duties,

A single housemaid is also expected to give the

parlour-maid some assistance in waiting at table

and ans^^'e^ing of bells, and to take her duties

during off-duty times.

She will also have the cleaning of ladies' and

any childreii's boots.

The House-parlourmaid combines the duties

of housemaid and tablemaid, and, in addition

to her house duties, she will have charge of the

table, i.e. the setting and clearing of the table

for all meals, all the waiting required, and the

washing of the silver, glass, and china. She

should answer all front-door bells after one

o'clock and might have to undertake a Mttle

washing. The cook may or may not give some

assistance -with the housework.

Qualifications Necessary. - A housemaid must

be clean, orderly, and an early riser. Much of

the comfort of the household depends upon

getting a fair amount of cleaning done before

breakfast. She must b, quiet and unobtrusive

in her work and make as little disturbance as

possible with her cleaning. She must be polite

and courteous in her manner and always respect-

ful. She must also be methodical, arranging

her work so that too much does not fall to one

day and not sufficient to others.

Dress and Appearance. - A housemaid should

at all times be neat and tidy in appearance, and

pay particular attention to her hair and the

cleanUness and freshness of her person.

In the morning she should be dressed in a

neat print dress with a plain white apron with

bib, a linen collar, and a simple cap with cambric

frill. A coarser apron may be put on when

doing any rough work, and a pair of gloves

while cleaning the grates. In the afternoon the

cotton dress should be changed for the orthodox

dress of some black woollen material, plainly

made, but neat fitting with tight sleeves and of

a smart walldng length. A muslin apron should

then be worn with a becoming cap and turn-

down collar and cuffs visually fastened with

bows of black ribbons. Quiet shoes should be

worn at all times.

Duties of tlie Housemaid. - (Three maids -

cook, housemaid, and paj-lour-maid.) Rise at

6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave room

airing.

Open up drawing-room or any other sitting-

room under her care, clean fire-place, sweep

and dust room, and light fire if necessary.

Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the

bedrooms and early cups of tea if required.

Prepare baths. Ivitchen breakfast. Clean front

hall and doorsteps unless done by cook, clean

any boots, make her own bed, and tidy bed-

room.

While family are at breakfast go into bed-

rooms, and see that windows are open and beds

left to air. Then empty slops and attend to the

wash-stands. Make beds with the parlour-

maid's help. Dust bedrooms and put them in

order and then do special work of the day.

Kitchen dinner. Dress. In the afternoon

finish off any Ughter pieces of work which are

not dirty, and do mending if required.

Kitchen tea. In the evening take hot water

to the bedrooms half-an-hour before dinner is

served. Draw dowTi blinds, and Ught up at

dark, closing windows if required.

During dinner it is usual for the housemaid to

do the carrying of the dishes from the kitchen

to the dining-room and vice versci, so that the

parlour-maid may never require to leave the

room, and also to give what assistance she

can with the waiting. When dinner is over,

retiim to the bedrooms, empty slops, and give

fresh supply of water, turn down beds and lay

out clothes for the night ; remove any dirty

boots and see that all is in order.

Kitchen supper. Bed at ten o'clock.

Special Weekly Work

Monday- C\ea.n drawing-room and spare bedroom

alternately.

Collect and count washing.

Tuesday- GXe^n two bedrooms.

IFedn€"daj/- Clean servants' bedrooms and housemaid's

pantry.

Thiirsday-Cle&n bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.

jPridai/- Clean library or morning-room and front hall,

unless done by the cook.

Saturday- Yat away linen from washing and make

things generally tidy for Sunday.

Duties of the House-parlourmaid. - (Two maids,

cook general, and house -parlourmaid.) Rise at

6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave

room to air.

Sweep and dust drawing-room or librarj',

and light fire if required. (The dining-room is

done by the cook.)

Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the

bedrooms and call the family.

Kitchen breakfeist. Lay sitting-room break-

fast and clean boots, serve breakfast. Empty

slops and see that beds are left airing. Ehist

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

and tidy own bedroom. Clear brealdast-table

and wash up, vuiloss this is done by the cook.

Make beds with the assistance of the cook or

some member of the family.

Dust and tidy bedrooms and proceed to special

work of the day. Dress by one o'clock. Set

the table and serve lunch or eaaly dinner.

Kitchen dinner. Clear the dining-room table,

take up crumbs and leave room tidy. Wash

up silver and glass and finish any light work.

Answer front -door boll in the afternoon and

evening and indoor bells all day.

Prepare and take in afternoon tea. Kitchen

tea. Wash up afternoon tea things.

Draw down blinds, close windows (if required),

and light up at dusk.

Lay dinner-table and serve dinner. Wait at

table, clear and w£ish up. Serve coffee if

required.

Attend to bedrooms, emptying slops, laying

down beds, and removing any dirty boots.

Ktchen supper. Bod at ten o'clock.

Special Weekly Duties

Monday - Clean drawing-room or spare bedroom alter-

nately.

Collect and count washing.

Tuesday- Clea,n one or two bedrooms.

Wednesday- Clean bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.

r?"ur"iat/- Clean servants' bedroom and pantries

Friday- C1ea.n silver and brasses.

iSafwrdai/- Put away washing and tidy up generally.

The Parlour-maid. - A parlour-maid or table-

maid's chief duty is to look after the table and

see to the serving of all meals. It is a very

important position, and one which would be

filled by a butler in houses where men-servants

were employed.

The parlour -maid takes the sole charge of the

silver, glass, china, and other valuables in daily

use, and is mistress of the pantry. She also has

chsu-ge of the sideboard, the wine, cake, fruit,

&c., and sees that fresh supplies are ordered as

required.

The care of the table-linen will be another of

her duties. She must see that the table is

suflBciently supplied, and that anacciu-ate account

is kept of the stock. The mending, too, might

be done by her if time permitted.

A parlour-maid usually undertakes the cleaning

of one or two sitting-rooms, usually the drawing-

room and one other smaller room as well. She

attends to the sitting-room fires, and lamps and

candles if used.

She answers the front-door boll throughout the

day, unless relieved for part of the time by the

housemaid, and announces all visitors.

She may also be responsible for the floral

decorations of the table and for the arrangement

of lowers and plants throughout the house,

vmlods the mistress herself undertakes this piece

of work.

If there is no man-servant the peu-lour-maid

valets her master, attending to the brushing of

his clothes and the cleaning of his boots. If

there is no lady's-maid she may be called upon

to wash up and do lace and other fine articles

belonging to her mistress and also any fancy

articles, such as d'oyleys and tray-oloths for

table use.

She might also be called upon to assist the

housemaid with bed-making, and would do

housemaid's duties in the latter's off-duty times.

She is usually responsible for the shutting of

the sitting-room windows .\t night and the

front door, unless done by some member of

the family.

Personal Appearance and Requirements. - A

parloior-maid should be tall and elegant in appear-

ance and rather slight, so that she can move

about easily and be graceful in her movements.

The dress, wliich is similar to that worn by the

housemaid, must be neatly made and fit well,

and the apron, collar, cuffs, and cap must always

be spotlessly clean, and especially so when the

maid is waiting at table.

A paxlour-maid should pay particular attention

to her hands, in order to have them nice for

giving attendance to the members of the family,

and her hair should be neatly done without

being too elaborate or fussy in style. She

must be orderly and punctual in all her doings,

and have a thorough knowledge of waiting at

table and other table requirements.

As a parlour-maid comes into such close con-

tact with the family, the post can only be filled

by a woman who is capable and conscientious,

and who has the interests of her master and

mistress at heart. Her manner must be

pleasant and respectful at all times, she must

know how to receive and address people of

refinement, and be able to give in an intelligent

way any information that may be required.

Daily Duties of Parlour- maid. - Rise at 6 or

6.30, according to time of breakfast. Dress,

turn down bed and leave room to air.

Open up sitting-rooms under her charge,

light fires if necessary, and do the sweeping and

dusting. Give any attendance required by the

master of the house and clean his boots.

Ejtchen breakfast. Then set sitting-room

breakfast-table and make toast, tea and coffee

unless done by the cook. Serve breakfast and

wait if required. Finish any work in the sitting-

rooms. Clear breakfast-table, take up crumbs,

and leave room in order. Help housemaid with

bods. (This might be done before the clearing

of the table if breakfast is a very prolonged

meal, but at the same time the beds should be

left sufficient time to air.)

Dust and put in order her own bedroom, un-

less done by the housemaid. Wash up dishes,

including silver. Sec that all cruets are filled

ready for the next meal, also jam and sugar

dishes attended to, and butter rolled or made

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

into pats. Attend to the sideboard and see

that the necessary wine is decanted, and that

fruit and cake dishes are clean and tidy. Make

a note of any stores required. Attend to any

floral decorations and water-plants. Attend

to lamps and candles if used in the sitting-

rooms.

Dress by one o'clock, in time to lay luncheon

table. IMake up sitting-room fire, and put

room in order before setting the table. Serve

luncheon and wait as required.

Kitchen dinner. After dinner clear luncheon

from sitting-room table, leave room in order,

and wash up. If time permits, do mending in

the afternoon or a little ironing. Take in after-

noon tea and attend to all visitors. Light

up sitting-rooms at dusk and draw down

blinds.

Kitchen tea. Prepare for dinner, lay table,

and at the appointed time announce the meal

in the drawing-room or sound a bell or gong.

Wait at table either alone or assisted by the

housemaid. Carve if required. Then clear and

wash up. Serve coSee or any other refreshment

that may be required.

Kitchen supper. Bed at ten P.M.

Special Weekly Duties

3/onda2/- Collect and count table linen, wash out towels,

dusters, wash-leathers, &c., and give special

attention to plants.

Tuesday- Clean drawing-room or other sitting-room.

Wednesday- C\ea.n second sitting-room (moming-room

or library) or assist housemaid with special

cleaning.

Thursday- CleSin silver.

Friday- Clesin pantry and her own bedroom, or any

brasses and other ornaments.

Saturday- CoMiit and put away washing, general tidying

up ana preparations for Sunday.

The General Servant. - The general servant is

employed to do the entire work of the house,

except that which is undertaken by the mistress

herself or some other member of the family.

If the household consist of more than two or

thi-ee persons it will be necessary for the mistress

to give a considerable amount of help, if the

work is to be done properly. She may either

do the cooking or the lighter parts of the house-

work, such as dusting, laying the table, washing

of silver and glass, &c. ; this depends entirely

upon her own tastes and inchnations.

Although a general servant cannot be ex-

pected to be an expert in all branches of house-

hold work, she ought to have a good all-round

knowledge and be able to cook simple dishes in

a wholesome and appetising manner.

Her work need not necessarily be harder than

that of another servant who only performs

special duties, but it must be systematically

arranged, and she must be quick and active if

the day's proceedings are to be carried through

in a satisfactory manner. A general servant

is not infrequently looked down upon as holding

an inferior position, a sort of " jack of all trades

and master of none " ; but this entirely depends

upon the maid herself and upon the house in

which she serves. If she does her work well,

she is a most valuable person, and her position,

if conscientiously fiUed, may become one of

trust. If she has the good fortune to be em-

ployed by a kind and considerate mistress, her

life should be a very happy one. She will enter

into much closer relationship with the family

than it is possible to do where there are several

servants, and she will get full credit for all her

work. A good general is always particular

about her personal appearance ; the fact of

being busy should never be an excuse for having

a dirty and dishevelled appearance ; in fact,

this state only denotes a slovenly worker. It

ought also to be a source of pleasiu-e to be

dressed in good time in the afternoon. The

dress should be that worn by any other house

servant, i.e. a nice print dress in the morning,

with a white linen apron, linen collar, and cap,

and a black or dark blue dress in the afternoon

with a muslin apron and more dressy cap. A

coarse apron or overall should always be kept

at hand to sUp on when doing any dirty

work.

Daily Duties. - ^Rise at 6 or 6.30, dress, turn

down bed and leave room to air. Unbolt door,

draw up bhnds and open kitchen and sitting-

room windows. Light kitchen fire and tidy

grate. FiU kettle and put on porridge if re-

qtiired. Clean boots, sweep and dust sitting-

room, lighting fire if necessary. Sweep and

dust hall and clean doorstep and brasses. (If

breakfast is at an early hour this may be left

until later.) Prepare sitting-room breakfast and

have kitchen breakfast.

Empty slops and air bedrooms. Tidy and

dust her own bedroom. Clear breakfast-table,

wash up and tidy kitchen. Take orders for the

day.

Make beds with assistance, dust and tidy bed-

rooms, and sweep and dust stairs. I^epare

early dinner or lunch and do special work for the

day. (If late dinner is the rule, the mid-day

meal should be as simple as possible, and most

of the cooking should be prepared in the

morning.)

Serve lunch and have early dinner. Clear

and wash up. When kitchen has been tidied,

change dress, attend to any light duties in the

afternoon, and serve tea. Attend to all bells

promptly. Serve supper or dinner at the hour

appointed, and do what waiting is required.

Clear and wash up and have kitchen supper.

Light up at dusk, draw down blinds, and close

windows as required. After dinner tvu-n down

beds and attend to the bedrooms. Collect

sticks and coals for the morning. Bed at

ten P.M.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Special Weekly Duties

J/OTuiai/- Wash towels and dusters, &c. (Heavy washing

can scarcely be undertaken unless the maid

is relieved of most of her other work for the

forenooa.)

TuAKfay- Clean drawing-room and dining-room alternate

weeks.

Wednesday- Cle&n bath-room, staircase, and hall.

Thursday- Clean bedrooms.

Friday- Clean pantry, larder, and any back premises,

also siiver and tins alternate weeks.

Saturday- Clean kitchen.

The Housekeeper. - The housekeeper is the

representative of hor mistress, and in large house-

holds she fulfils the duties which naturally fall

to the mistress herself in a smaller manage.

This leaves the lady of the house free to attend

to social and other claims.

The housekeeper is second in command, and

answerable only to the head of the house. She

engages and dismisses servants and pays their

wages - with the exception of the nurse and

lady's-maid - arranges their work, and is respon-

sible in every way for their appearance and

behaviour and the fulfilment of their duties.

The housekeeper is responsible for the proper

keeping of the house in every part, and she

sees to the needs and comfort of the whole family

and domestic staff.

She orders and gives out all stores, keeps

£iccounts, and pays the bills. If there is a butler

he reheves lier of some of those duties, and he is

always responsible for the men-servants.

The hoiosekeeper should see her employer at

stated times in order to give in a report of the

various departments, and also to receive her

instructions and learn her wishes.

The housekeeper has always her own sitting-

room in which her meals are served by one of

the under - maids, except dinner, which she

usually takes with the other servants.

Her sitting-room may be shared by some of

the upper servants, such as the lady's-maid, the

butler, and the valet.

The Butler. - The position of butler is usually

one of great trust. He is head of the men-

servants, is responsible for the work of those

under him, arranges their off-duty time, and

often engages them as well.

He has sole charge of the wine collar, and

gives out the wine required, keeping a note of

the stock, and frequently seeing to the buying

in of supplies.

To his care is confided the silver and otlier

articles of value in daily use.

He is responsible for the arrangement of all

meals and the table appointments. He an-

nounces when meals are ready, puts the dishes

on the table or does the carving, pours out the

wine, and waits assisted by a footman or parlour-

maid.

He is responsible for the care of the billiard-

room and smoking-room or library, and the

fires and lighting arrangements of the other

rooms.

If single-handed, his duties would be very

much the same as those already detailed for the

house-parlourmaid. If there is no valet he

waits upon his master. He also looks after any

carriage or motor rugs and lamps, and in the

country would be responsible for shooting and

picnic lunches.

When there is no housekeeper the butler

frequently pays the bills and does the marketing.

He usually goes out every day.

The butler is also responsible for the shutting

up of the house.

In the early part of the day his dress should

be dark trousers and waistcoat and black tail

coat, with a white front and collar and black tie

- in the evening the regulation dress suit with a

white tie.

The Footman. - The footman is generally an

all-round useful man and his duties may be

very varied. If there is a butler, he would

work under him, but in houses where he is the

only man-servant his duties might be somewhat

after the following : -

He would clean boots and shoes, knives and

windows, fetch coal and see to the filling of

coal-scuttles and the keeping up of fires.

He would lay the table and wait, assisted by

a parlour-maid or housemaid, and wash up the

silver, glass, and china after each meal.

He would valet his master and go out with the

carriage if required, attending to any rugs.

The charge of lamps and window - plants

would also fall to his share. He would answer

bells, announce visitors, and take in afternoon

tea.

He would also be responsible for the locking

up of the house at night.

A footman may or may not wear livery. If

this is not supplied it is usual to give two suits

in the year, either new or from Ms master's

wardrobe.

The Lady's - maid. - Tlie lady's - maid devotes

herself to the personal requirements of her

mistress and looks after her needs in every

way.

She undertakes the charge of her wardrobe

and sees that all her belongings are kept in

good order and proper repair.

She assists her mistress v.'ith her toilet, helps

her to dress and undress, brushes and dresses

her hair, selects and lays out the clothes she is

going to wear.

She does any packing and unpacking and

travels with her mistress when required.

She requires a bedroom for herself, which is

sometimes fitted as a bed-sitting-room, where

she can do her sewing and other work.

She will keep her own and her mistress's

room in order, do the dusting, and make the

beds with some assistance ; but she will not

be expected to clean grates nor do any hard

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

cleaiiijig, and she will take no part in general

housework.

If well filled the post of lady's-maid is no

sinecure, as a varied knowledge is necessary to

do all that is required. A woman who under-

takes this work inust be able to sew well in

order that she may both make and mend neatly.

She must also have some knowledge of dress-

making and millinery so as to be able to alter and

renovate, to change the style of an evening dress,

to make a tasteful bow, retrim a hat or bonnet,

or give the necessary finishing touches to a

lady's toilet. She must be a woman of taste,

and be able to give advice as to the choice of

dresses, &c.

She ought to know enough laundry work to

enable her to wash and do up laces and silks and

musUn, wash shawls and feather boas, and other

fancy articles.

She must be a good hair-dresser, and if a

fashionable coiffure is required, it is a good plan

to take a lesson occasionally from a first-class

hairdresser in order to learn the newest

modes.

If she travels with her mistress a knowledge

of languages, especially French, is invaluable,

and she should know how to make travelling

arrangements, see to tickets and luggage, and

be responsible for the exchange of money.

A lady's-maid wears no uniform, but ought

to be quietly and neatly dressed when in attend-

ance on her mistress.

Her manner must be pleasant and respectful,

and she must know how to exercise self-control.

As she comes into such close contact with the

private life of her mistress, it is her duty to give

her faithful and loyal service as long as she

remains in her employment.

The Valet. - The valet attends to the personal

wants of his master just as the lady's-maid waits

upon her mistress. He helps him with his

dressing, and takes fxill charge of his wardrobe,

brushes his clothes, cleans his boots, and attends

to any repairs.

He sees that his master's wash-stand and

toilet-table are supplied with the necessary

requisites, and is responsible for all his belongings

being kept in order and in the proper place.

He must know how to pack and unpack, and

if he travels with his master he must know how

to make all arrangements, take tickets, and see

to luggage, &c.

The valet is sometimes expected to give

assistance in waiting at table.

The Laundry-maid. - The laundry-maid is re-

sponsible for the washing and dressing of the

household linen.

She will have full charge of the laundry, seeing

that it is kept clean and in perfect order. Slie

will also be responsible for all the Unen con-

fided to her care.

If the family is not large, she may be expected

to take part in some of the housework as well.

(For fuller details of her duties see Guide to

Laundry Work, p. 271.)

The Scullery-maid. - The scullery-maid ranks

lowest amongst the kitchen servants, and if there

is a kitchen-maid she works under her.

A scullery-maid is employed primarily for

cleaning all the dishes and utensils used in the

kitchen ; she washes the kitchen floors and does

the scrubbing. She will assist with the pre-

paration of vegetables and be responsible for

the keeping up of the kitchen fire.

If there is no kitchen-maid, the scullery-

maid will assist the cook and work under her

direction.

Although the work may be somewhat labori-

ous, it is a good beginning for a young girl who

aspires to be cook, and if she is quick and willing

she may learn a great deal, and gradually rise

to a better position.

The Kitchen-maid. - A kitchen-maid is em-

ployed to work under a cook, to be her apprentice

as it were. She is responsible for many of the

plainer dishes, thus leaving the cook free for

more important duties. She prepares and

serves the kitchen meals, and also cooks for

the mu-sery and school-rooin if required.

If there is no scullery-maid, the kitchen-maid

will also undertake the cleaning of the kitchen

utensils, the kitchen stove, and some of the

kitchen premises.

Provided a kitchen-maid serves under a good

cook, this is the best way for her to learn the

art of cooking.

The Tweeny. - This is a title given to a young

girl who divides her time between the house and

the kitchen. In the forenoon she may work

under the housemaid or the nurse and do the

housework, and from lunch time onwards assist

the cook. She does all the odd jobs and must

be ready to make herself generally useful.

The Hall Boy. - The hall boy or boy in buttons

is sometimes kept in place of a single man-

servant, and if clever and wilhng he may

be an extremely useful member of the house-

hold.

He wiU be found of special value in the house

of a professional man, such as a doctor or

dentist, where there is much answering of bella

required, and perhaps running of messages as

well.

A capable boy will soon learn to clean knives,

boots, and windows, to fill coal-scuttles and

look after fires. He will also be able to set

the table, do some waiting and most of the

wasliing up.

The boy in buttons must be provided with

clothes ; a Uvery suit of some dark cloth,

navy serge, dark green, or dark crimson with

the coat buttoning to the neck, and for

doing cleaning or rough work he should

have a cotton jacket of dark blue or striped

drill or strong hoUand and some good stout

aprons.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

HOUSEKEEPING WITHOUT A SERVANT

In these days of flat life, when accommodation

for housing a ser\'ant is very limited, it is often

found more convenient to do without one

altogether, or to manage with eitlier daily help

or the ser\nces of a thoroughly competent

worker once or twice a week.

It ought to be quite possible for a newly

married lady to undertake the work of a small

flat with perhaps the occasional help of a char-

woman, and to have time for other interests as

well. Or if, as is often the case, two sisters or

two friends live together, the work should be

all the more easy to manage, as each can take

her share of the household duties.

Some knowledge of housekeeping is, however,

necessary for the successful management of a

" no servant " manage, and if one is entirely

ignorant of the ways of doing things, it should

scarcely be attempted unless absolutely necessary,

as the results are not likely to be satisfactory.

Good health is also a sine qua non, although

no great phj^sical strength is required ; so much

is done nowadays to make the work of a house

simple, and especially the work in a flat. There

are no stairs nor front door -step to keep in order,

the cooking and water heating can be done by

gaa, and all provisions, &c., can be brought to

the very door without the trouble of going up

and down stairs. Yet with aU the conveniences

possible, success in the undertaking will depend

to a large extent upon the order and method

displayed in its organisation. The work must

be planned carefully, or one will either be in a

constant muddle, or be continually at it, and

have time for nothing beyond the daily round of

house duties.

To begin with, the woman who does her own

work must dress suitably when performing her

household duties - a short sldrt, a cotton or

other washing blouse, and a big apron or overall

is the most suitable attire ; or a complete wash-

ing dress might be worn if the weather is warm.

A large overall to slip on over a good afternoon

dress will also bo found useful.

It will be well also to seciure as many labour-

saving apparatus aa possible, such as gas-cooker,

carpet-sweeper, knife-cleaner, mop for washing

dishes, &c.

Care.too, must be taken of the hands. Because

a woman is her own maid-of-all-work this is no

excuse for her being careless in this respect.

Gloves should be worn as much as possible, and

after doing washing up the hands should be well

dried and a few drops of glycerine and rose-

water should be rubbed into the skin.

Do not commence by doing too much before

breakfast. Unless one has been accustomed to

early rising it is apt to knock one up for the rest

of the day without any reason. Do not attempt

to light fires and clean out a sitting-room before

a meal has been taken. Sometimes it may be

possible to prepare a certain amount the night

before, and in any case there should be a small

gas or even an oil-stove upon which the morning

meal can be prepared. If the sitting-room has

not a stove which can be lit without much

trouble, there is no reason why the kitchen should

not be pretty enough and tidy enough for the

first meal to be taken there.

On rising in the morning put on a large kettle

of water. If there is porridge for breakfast this

should have been soaked over-night in a double

cooker. Put a light under this also. Then

dress, and when ready let breakfast have the

first attention, talcing time to have this meal

leism-ely and in comfort. Next collect the

dishes and clear the table, and either put the

dishes to one side while the bedrooms and

sitting-room are being done, or wash them up

straight away.

The sitting-room should be done next, as it

will be as well to let the bedrooms air as long as

possible. If a fire has to be laid, do this with

order and method. Go over the floor with a

carpet-sweeper, then dust every part and leave

the window open. Next turn yovu- attention

to the bedrooms, put these in order, and then

sweep and dust the passage. Now return to

the kitchen, wash up all the dishes, and sweep

and dust. If breakfast has not been very late,

all the cleaning should be finished by eleven

o'clock, unless some special work has to be done,

such as the thorough cleaning of a room, silver,

brasses, work this could also be fitted in.

The cooking for the day should now be thought

of, and although it is alwaj's possible to have

meals at a restaurant, or to order various dishes

from a caterer's, it must be remembered that

this is an expensive way of living, and with the

necessary knowledge of cookery it should be

quite possible to have dainty little meals at

home, and so feed well with very little trouble.

The woman who does her own work will not

require to spend much time considering what is

in her larder ; she will no doubt have arranged

in her own mind what the different meals have

to be whilst doing her other work. All the

cookery required should either be done in the

morning or at least prepared as far as possible,

so that what must be left for the evening will take

very little time to get ready when required.

Light utensils should be used, such as aliuninium,

enamelled tin, or earthenware saucepans, as they

are easier to handle and keep in order. One or

two steamers would also be invaluable, as so

much cooking can be done in these -nathout

trouble and attention.

After the mid-day meal it is a good plan to

rest, even if only for half-an-hoiu", and then, after

dressing, one ought to feel quite fresh to go out

and turn one's thoughts in a different channel.

The afternoon should be free from household

MISTRESS AND SERVANTS

If the evening meal has been prepared in the

morning it will not take long to get it ready, and

haK-an-hour as an ordinary rule should be

sufficient. Then if washing up in the evening

is found awkward, there is no occasion to do

more than the silver, which it is never wise to

leave, and the other dishes, if they are not re-

quired in the morning, could be packed up and

washed with the breakfast dishes.

Marketing. - The time for doing this will

depend upon circumstances, and need not be

rigidly fixed. If it is inconvenient to go out in

the mornmg in the midst of the other work it

may be possible to order in the afternoon for

the following day, or another way is to arrange

for the tradesmen to call, and for everything to

be brought to the door at a certain time.

Outside Help. - This may be obtained either

daily or once or twice a week, according to

circumstances and individual needs. If a

young girl is engaged to come in for an hour or

two every morning, she might do the washing \ip,

prepare the vegetables, and attend to the other

kitchen work, also clean the boots and stoves

and assist with the rooms as well. Many prefer,

however, to have more competent help even if

it is not so often. A good worker for half a day

could do all the hard cleaning, including the

stoves, scrubbing of the kitchen, and thoroughly

clean one or two rooms each visit. If the rooms

can be prepared for her, and any ornaments and

other trifles dusted and afterwards arranged, it

will be a great saving of time, and in this way

half the rooms could be cleaned one week, and

the other half the next.

Advantages. - Besides the actual saving of

board and wages of an indoor servant there will

be a feeling of independence. It will be possible

to leave home for a day or a week without any

need for worrying about the house. There will

also be freedom from that feeling of close

proximity to a servant which is impossible to

avoid in a flat, and which destroys the sense of

Hberty which is essential to the happiness of

both parties.

Warning. - ^It must be remembered that house-

work must not crowd out everything else ; one

mvist have time to read a little, rest a little, and

keep in touch with the outside world as welL

The economy that saves money at the expense

of health and the capabihty of enjojrment is in

reality one of the worst extravagances.

Another point is that the housekeeper must

remember to feed herself. If the mid-day meal

is taken alone, she is only too apt to make it as

meagre as possible to save trouble, and also to

take it too qiiickly, whereas time would be well

spent in eating something reaUy nutritious, and

if the quantity is small the quality should be

all the more carefully considered.

One must also learn to do without many

things, and not expect to live in the same style

as those who have plenty of servants at their

command, but this can quite well be done with-

out falling into a slovenly way of living and

losing any of the refinement of life.

WAGES TABLE

Giving the rates per Month, Week, and Day of Yearly Incomes from £10 to £50

Year.

Month

Week.

Day.

Year.

Month.

Week.

Day.

£ 8.

B. d.

8. d.

10 0

0 0

0 Hi

10 10

10 0

0 lU

11 0

17 0

101

0 llf

11 10

0 0

0 llj

11 11

10 0

1 Oi

12 0

18 0

1 Oi

12 10

0 0

1 o|

12 12

10 0

1 0|

13 0

19 0

1 1

13 10

0 0

1 u

13 13

0 0

1 If

14 0

0 0

1 2J

14 10

0 0

1 3

14 14

0 0

1 3|

15 0

0 0

1 4^

15 10

0 0

1 7|

15 15

0 0

1 11

16 0

10*

0 0

2 2J

16 10

io|

0 0

2 5i

16 16

0 0

2 9

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

The object of the foUowing pages is to furnish the housewife with directions for the performance

of such details of household work as ai-e not dealt with under special headings.

The directions are the result of many years practical experience of everything pertaining to

household management. ^ o x- e

The various details of household work are dealt with separately under their own headings, and

the many useful hints with regard to cleaning, &c., are the result of actual test

It 13 hoped that the information given wiU afford valuable help to the harassed housewife in

the little difficulties which are continually cropping up in the course of daily duties. If it does

this the imssion of this section of the book will be abundantly fulfilled.

THE CLEANING OF ROOMS

Before beginning to clean a room of any kind

it is very important that everything required for

the work should be collected together, so that

there need be no unnecessary running about to

seek for tliis or that duster or brush. So first

consider what has to be cleaned, and then take

with you the necessary implements, seeing that

everything is in order for the work to be carried

out satisfactorily and systematically, with the

least possible waste of time.

TO CLEAN AND TIDY A BEDROOM

Dally Work.- First draw up the blinds as far

as they will go, being careful to keep them

straight, and open the windows top and bottom.

Then turn down the bed and spread out any

night garments on a chair. Allow the room to

au- for an hour at lea^t before the bed is made.

During this time the slops may be emptied,

towels hung up evenly, and any clothing or

other articles left lying about the room put

away in theu- places. It is always better if

two people can make the bed. When this is

neatly finished, fold up the night-dress or

sleeping-suit, put it in a neat case, and lay it on

the bed just beneath the pillow.

If there has been a fire in the room attend to

the grate next, being careful to make as little

dust as possible.

It will not be necessary to sweep the room

every day, but the floor must be gone over

with a short brush and shovel or with a carpet-

sweeper, so as to take up any pieces or surface I

dust. Be careful too that all fluff is removed

from underneath the bed. Some people prefer '

to have the carpet wiped over with a slightly

damp cloth or leather.

Then dust the room. Commence at one corner

and go steadily round, dusting each article until

every part has been done. Pay particidar at-

tention to the toilet table. Lift each article

and diist underneath it, arranging everything

with order and taste.

If the edges of the floor are pohshed or covered

with hnoleum, rub them round with a shghtly

damp duster, or, better still, with the flannel or

cloth which has been used to rub up a polished

floor. The latter will have the remains of a

httle wax upon it, and will keep the floor in good

condition.

If a candlestick has been used, see that this is

in order, putting in a fresh candle if required,

and removing any old matches.

Finally fill up the ewer and water-jug with

fresh cold water, and lower the blinds and

windows a httle if desired. Look round the

room to see that everything is in order and

that no duster or brush is being left beliind, and

close the door quietly on leaving.

Weekly or Thorough Cleaning.- Once a week,

or at least once a fortnight, a bedroom will

require a more thorough cleaning if it is in

constant use.

After the slops have been emptied, the bed-

room ware and any gas globes should be carried

away to a bathroom or housemaid's pantry,

where they can be washed. If this is not con-

venient, they must be covered over and washed

afterwards in the room.

Before making the bed, brush the mattress on

both sides and well round the edges, as this is

one of the best means of keeping away moths;

Dust also the bedstead under the mattress and

then make the bed, but do not put on the top

cover ; this is better kept off until the cleaning

is finished. Tuck up the valance all round, if

there is one, and brush and pin back any

curtains out of the way.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

Next lay some sheets of clean paper or a large

towel on the top of the bed. Dust all ornaments

(keeping aside any that may require washing)

and other small articles, and lay them on the top

of the bed over the paper, or towel. Shake and

fold up the toilet cover, and all table-cloths

and towels ; shake and remove any short

window-blinds, and lay these also on the bed.

Cover all with a large dust-sheet, which will

hang well over the sides.

Dust and remove from the room as many as

possible of the small articles of furniture, and

cover over what is left with dust-sheets or old

newspapers. If any of the chairs are up-

holstered, these should be brushed with a

furniture brush before being covered. All

clothing must be taken down from the back of

doors and kept out of the room or under cover.

Roll up all rugs or n^ats, and take them out-

side to be beaten later on. If this cannot be

done they must be brushed with a short brush

in the room and then removed.

If there has been a fire in the rooim, remove

all the cinders and dost, but do not pohsh the

grate until the room has been swept. Next

close all windows and doors, and see that drawers

too are shut.

Sprinkle the carpet with tea-leaves or bran,

and sweep it thoroughly. When the dust has

all been collected in a shovel, the window should

be thrown open and the room left for a httle

while to allow the dust to settle.

Meanwhile the dust in the dust-pan should be

taken away and burnt at once. K left lying

about it is very apt to be knocked over and the

contents perhaps scattered around. The articles

that have been outside can also have attention.

The rugs should be brushed or beaten outside

and carried back in readiness to be laid down,

the ware in the batliroom washed, and the

small fxirniture rubbed up.

Then return to the room and finish off the

fireplace, using a hearth- cloth.

Roll up the dust-sheets, which should after-

wards be shaken in the open air. One word

about dust-sheets - too often these are used

vmtil they reach such a dirty state as to be

rendered almost useless. They should be

washed whenever necessary.

Tlie dusting may now be commenced. First

mount a pair of steps, dusting all out-of-

reach places, such as bhnds, curtain poles,

inside of windows, pictures, top of wardrobe

and door, &c. Then dust and polish, if neces-

sary, the furniture that remains in the room ; also

dust round the skirting board, panels of doors

and floor where it is uncarpeted.

When the dust has as far as possible been

removed from the room, it is time to do any

necessary washing. Wash the top of the wash-

stand if it is marble, the tiles round the fire-

place, the window ledges if they require it, and

any finger-marks off doors. The windows and

mirrors too if they require special cleaning

should now have attention. Also finish off the

edges of the floor in a suitable manner, accord-

ing to whether they aie hnoleum, varnish, or

matting.

Now put back in their places the articles which

were laid on the bed, let down the bed valance,

and put the bed in order.

Then bring back the things from outside and

arrange everything in order. Supply the wash-

stand with fresh water and new soap if required.

Spare Bedrooms. - These will not require to be

cleaned so often as the rooms that are in con-

stant use. If they are aired and dusted regularly

they ought to keep in good order without being

tm-ned out more than perhaps once a month. Of

course, this depends a good deal upon the locaUty

in wliich a house is situated. A room in a

smoky city will requii-e much more cleaning

than one in a fresh country district.

Note. - For details of the various operations,

see under special headings.

TO CLEAN A SITTING-ROOM

The order and method for this is very much

the same as for a bedroom, except of coiirse

there is not the bed and wash-stand to attend

to.

Daily Work. - Draw up the blinds and open

the window. Remove any table-covers, shake

them and fold them up, and roll up the rugs

(sometimes tliis is done over-night).

If there has been a fire in the room, attend to

that first. Lay down the hearth-cloth before

commencing, and finish off the grat" com-

pletely.

Then with a dust-pan and short brush - or,

better stiU, with a carpet-sweeper - go over the

floor, taking up any crumbs and pieces and ail

siu-face dust. Be careful to make 6is httle dust

as possible. Lay down the rugs and brush them

over also.

Tlien take away the dust and burn it at once,

also the contents of the waste- paper basket.

Next dust the room ceirefully, commencing at

one corner and going steadily round.

If there is a poUshed or hnoleum surround

to the carpet, wipe this round with a slightly

damp duster and then with a dry one. Dust at

the same time the sku*ting-boards. Replace the

table-covers, and see that cushions, books, &c.,

are all in order.

To " Thorough-Clean " a Sitting-room. - A room

that is in constant use will require to be cleaned

more thoroughly once a week. A drawing-

room or room that is only used occasionally will

not require it so often. The mistress of the house

must decide for herself how often it is necessary

to turn it out.

To Prepare the Room. - First remove all plants

and flowers, and these sliould be attended to and

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

arranged outside before they are brought back

into the room.

Pull up the blinds as far as they will go.

Shake or brush the curtains, and pin them high

up out of the way. Remove any short window-

curtains, shake them and fold them up.

Then dust thorougWy all ornaments, odd

books, music, &c., and cither remove them from

the room or cover them over on a table or side-

board inside.

Dust also and remove, if possible, all small

articles of furniture.

Roll up all rugs, and have them taken out of

doors to be shaken or beaten later on.

Take off all table-cloths and antimacassars,

shake them and fold them up. Boat all cusliions,

but not too roughly, and then cover all these

small things with a dust-sheet.

Upholstered furniture and footstools should

be brushed, and all furniture which cannot

be removed should be covered over with large

clean dust-sheets.

To Clean the Room. - Follow the same order

for sweeping, dusting, and doing the grate as for

a bedroom. (See 59.)

After sweeping, and while the dust is settling,

the things outside should be seen to. Rugs

should be shaken, dirty ornaments and glass

globes washed or cleaned, and any necessary

polishing done.

After the inside dusting is done, put back the

furniture in its place, and put on table-cloths and

antimacassars. Bring back all ornaments, &c.,

take down the curtains and see that all is in order.

Finally replace any plants and flower decora-

tions.

CLEANING OF HALL AND STAIRCASE

Before commencing to clean these, close all

doors leading into them. Take up all mats and

have them shaken outside the house. In

houses where there is much going up and down

stairs the latter will require to be swept down

daily, but with a quiet household it may be

sufficient to sweep them two or three times a

week, and to simply dust them on the other days.

Begin at the top landing and work down-

wards. If there is a long stretch of landing

on any of the floors, this should be swept with a

long broom or carpet-sweeper instead of the

short brush, as it will save unnecessary kneeling.

To sweep the stairs, take a banister or stair-

brush and a dust-pan. A double brush, with

bristles on one side and hair on the other, is the

most convenient for the purpose. Sweep the

top and front of each step, catching the dust in

the dust-pan. Use the bristle side of the brush

for the carpet and the soft hair side for the paint

or varnish.

When the bottom of the stair is reached take

the dust away at once and have it burnt ; if left

lying in the dust-pan it is very liable to be

knocked over and spilt. And here a word of

warning may be given about the danger of leav-

ing cleaning materials on a stair ; most serious

accidents have happened owing to carelessness in

this respect.

Allow the dust to settle before doing the

dusting. Stairs and banisters will require to be

dusted thoroughly every daj', and each banister

rail should be done separately.

The varnished or painted sides of stair and

landing should be wiped first with a slightly

damp rubber, as this will prevent the dust flying

about, and then poUshed with a dry one.

Doors, door-handles, and window ledges must

also liave attention. Lay down the mats last

of aU.

Weekly Cleaning, - Once a week the stairs will

require a more thorough cleaning.

When sweeping the steps, pull out the ends of

the rods and sweep away the dust from under-

neath. The banisters too, if they are of wood,

should be carefully brushed. If made of painted

iron, they may be washed after the sweeping is

finished with a wash leather wrung out of warm

water and a very httle soap. Care itiust be

taken to wring the leather rather firmly, so as to

prevent drops of water falling on the steps.

After the stairs have been thoroughly swept,

and while the dust is settUng, the rods may be

cleaned. While doing this an old newspaper

or large duster should be laid on the steps to

protect the carpet, and not more than one or two

rods must be taken out at one time.

Then after the steps and banisters have been

carefully dusted, polish the hand-rail with a

little furniture pohsh and the sides of the stairs

and landing with floor polish, or bees' -wax and

turpentine. If of varnished wood, or if of

enamelled white paint, wash them carefully with

a little plain soap and water, and rub up with a

dry cloth.

A stair carpet will require lifting more fre-

quently than other carpets ; twice a year at

least, and oftener, if there is much going up and

down. When the carpet is up, the stops should

be well scrubbed with a little carbohc soap before

it is relaid.

If there is a linen drugget over the stair

carpet, this should be lifted frequently. Poll it

up as gently as possible so £is not to disturb the

dust. Then have it taken out of doors, well

brushed and rubbed over with a damp cloth.

The carpet underneath should be well brushed

before laying it down again. Change the position

of the drugget a little each time it is relaid, so as

to ensure equal wear.

To Clean the Hall. - The rugs having been re-

moved, sweep the floor carefully, keeping the dust

down as much as possible. Take the dust up in

a dust-pan and have it burnt. Then allow the

dust that has risen to settle, and dust all the

furniture, skirting- boards and doors. If the

hall is tiled or covered with linoleum, it ought

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

to be washed once or twice a week, or as often aa

necessary.

The hall mats should be shaken or beaten out-

side the back-door if possible, and they must not

be relaid until the floor is dry. The door-steps

must be washed every day (see p. 73), and as

early in the morning as possible. If there is not

time for much work before breakfast, then the

steps can be done first and the hall left until

later in the day. Empty the scraper, and black-

lead it brightly. Polish all brass door-handles

and plates ; those inside once a week and those

outside every day.

Once a week the furniture in the hall should

be well rubbed up, all brass or other ornaments

cleaned, gas globes washed, gas bracket dusted,

and any windows and mirrors cleaned.

Note. - For details of the various operations,

see under special headings.

THE BATHROOM AND LAVATORY

To Clean Baths. - All baths should be thor-

oughly well rinsed and wiped out after having

been used. If the soapy scum which rises on

the top of the water is allowed to he on them,

they will be found much more difficult to clean.

Enamelled Baths. - Empty or run out all the

soapy water, and then let in some clean warm

water. Take a flannel or soft brush and

wash the sides and all over with this, using a

little soft soap, or Sunlight soap if necessary ;

but if the bath is in constant use this will not

likely be required every day. If the enamel

becomes stained or discoloured, dip the flannel

in a little dry salt before applying it. Rinse

with clean warm water if soap has been used,

and then dry rith a cloth. This treatment

should be sufficient to keep the bath in order,

but if the enamel becomes very dirty use a

little Sapolio along with the ordinary soap.

Care must always be taken not to roughen the

surface of the enamel, because if once the poUsh

is spoilt it is much more difficult to keep it in

order.

A Porcelain Bath can be treated in the same

way as above, but Brooke's soap may be used

instead of Sapolio if the ordinary soap and

water is not sufficient to make it clean.

A Zinc Bath is a little more difficxilt to keep

in order. It should be washed out as above,

and, if much soiled, rubbed with a mixture of

soft soap and Brooke's soap. Shred down some

Brooke's soap and mix it In a saucer with some

soft soap. Apply this to the bath with a flannel,

rubbing it well in, rinse and dry thoroughly.

Fine bath-brick dust mixed with a little paraffin

is also an excellent thing for cleaning zinc, but

it requires a lot of rinsing to get rid of the

smell.

The Water-closet Pan. - This should be well

flushed out with water every day and brushed

round with a special brush, which is kept for

this purpose only. Then once a week at least

a good pailful of hot soda-water should be

poured in and the brush used again.

If the pan has become discoloinred or a coating

of fiir collected on the sides, empty out as much

of the cold water as possible and scrub it well

with sand and soft soap, or use a little coarse

salt. If this is not sufficient to bring it into

good condition, dissolve a penny-

worth of spirits of salt in one quart

of boiling water ; pour this into

the pan and allow it to remain

there for a short time. Then

brush round vigorously and rinse.

Care must be taken that the

mixture does not touch the hands,

as it is very poisonous and liable

to burn.

The lavatory brush should, if

possible, be hung on a nail out-

side the window. Each lavatory

should also be pro\aded with a

towel hung on to a nail by a

loop.

It is very important that no

rubbish be put down the lavatory,

such as bmrnt matches, hair com-

bings, faded flowers, pieces of

orange peel, &c. It must be

remembered that the pipes are

usually made with a bend, and

such articles would be Ukely to obstruct them.

Young servants shovild always be warned against

throwing any scraps they find in the bedrooms

into the slop-pail.

The window of the lavatory shoiild always

be kept open and the door shut.

The Lavatory Basin. - If this is emptied im-

mediately after use and rinsed with a little cold

water, it will be easily kept in order. It is

when dirty soapy water is allowed to remain

in the basin that it becomes more difficult to

clean. When necessEiry wash with hot water,

soap, and a brush, using a little Brooke's soap

or Sapolio if required for any stains ; rinse with

cold water and dry with a cloth. Every day

the taps ought to be dried and rubbed with a

duster, and twice a week at least they sho\ild be

polished with a little metal polish to keep them

bright and shining.

CARE OF CARPETS AND RUGS

To Sweep a Carpet. - In these days of carpet-

sweepers and suction dust-lifters much of the

old-fashioned hand -switching has been done

away with. A carpet-sweeper is now to be seen

in almost every house, and it is certainly an

immense saving of labour. The price varies

from 10s. 6d. upwards. It is quick and simple,

and takes up the dust where it lies instead of

raising it to float about the room in an un-

hygienic way. It must be rolled across the

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

carpet with even strokes, and there is no occa-

sion to press too heavily. Care must be taken

not to use it near heavj' furniture, so as to avoid

knocking it, and a brush will always be required

as well to brush all corners and places where

Carpet-Sweeper.

the sweeper cannot reach. The sweeper must

bo emptied each day after use, and any fluff,

hairs, or thread ends removed from the brushes.

If attention is not paid to this the sweeper will

very soon become clogged and out of order.

\V1ieu cleaning a carpet which has a thick pile,

such as an Axminster, it is better to use a brush

in preference to a sweeper, as the rollers on the

latter are liable to leave marks on the soft

surface.

Patent suction diist-lifters or vacuum cleaners

are also coming into use, but the really practical

ones are still much too expensive for the ordinary

private house.

When none of these patent cleaners are avail-

able, then a carpet must be swept. It will

not be necessary to sweep it with a hard broom

every day ; it will be sufficient

/''~\^ just to go over it with a short-

^ \ handled brush and dust-pan,

taking up any pieces or smface

dust. Then once a week, or once

a fortnight, according to how

much the room is used, the carpet

must be brushed more thoroughly.

Cover up or remove as much of

the furniture as possible. Shut

down windows and close all doors

before beginning to brush. Then

sprinkle the floor all over with

one of the following : clean bran

slightly moistened, tea - leaves

which have been washed and

drained and mixed with a little

coarse salt, or cabbage blades

shred and mixed with coarse salt.

Any of these will prevent the dust

from flying about the room un-

necessarily and also help to freshen the carpet.

Thf n take a carpet broom or switch and brush

all o\ er the floor with short sharp strokes. Com-

mence at one of the corners and work methodi-

cally, sweeping all the dust towards the fli'oplace

short-handled

Brush.

or door. Sweep in such a direction as to flatten

the pile, or tlie cau-pet will have a rough appear-

ance and be apt to collect dust. The brush

ought to be turned occasionally so as to wear it

equally. The dust must be kept together sis

much &s possible and not sent flying over the

room. When brushing a tliick pile carpet, such

as an Axminster or Turkey, be particular to

brush the way of the pile, or the dust will only

be swept into it. Collect all the dust together

in a heap, brush into a shovel and take it away

to be burnt. Then open the window, and leave

the room for a short time before doing any

dusting.

To Revive the Colour. - If the carpet is old and

somewhat faded, tlie colour may be somewhat

revived by washing it over with a flannel wrung

out of ammonia and water ; or if the cai-pet is

soiled as well, wash over first with carbolic or

Sunlight soap and water, and rinse with ammonia

and water.

To Remove Stains. - Ink. - As much as possible

should at once be absorbed with a piece of

blotting-paper. Then pour on some fresh milk,

rub it in, and off, then take some more milk and

repeat the process, finally wasliing with a little

clean warm water. If this fails, which may be

the case if the ink has been on the carpet for

some time, try Sanitas, or one tea-spoonful of

oxalic acid mixed in half a teacupful of water.

Grease. - If it is candle grease, remove as

much as possible with a spoon or bone paper-

knife ; then place a piece of thick brown or

blotting-paper over the stain and apply the

point of a hot iron, allowing the grease to sink

into the paper. Move the paper and repeat the

process. Other grease stains may be removed by

covering them with a paste made of Fuller's earth

and water. Allow this to remain for twenty-

four hours and then brush off. Black-lead stsuns

can also be removed with Fuller's earth.

Chiver's carpet soap is also very good for re-

moving stains.

To Beat Carpets. - If a carpet has to be beaten

at home it should be taken into the garden and

carried as far from the house as possible. If the

distance cannot be very great, all windows and

outside doors should be closed while the beating

is going on to prevent the dust entering the

house. Hang the carpet over a clothes-line with

the wrong side out, and beat it well with strong

canes or carpet- beaters. Care must be taken

that there are no sharp points in the sticks which

would be likely to injure the carpet. When the

wrong side seems clean and no more dust rises,

turn the carpet and repeat the same process on

the right side. Then if there is some nice clean

gresa, spread the carpet over it and sweep off the

surface-dust with a strong broom. The carpet

may even be drawn over the grass to freshen it.

Rugs should if possible be taken out of doors

to be beaten or brushed. If they are too heavy

to be shaken by hand, they should be hung over

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

a rope and beaten with a stick, or laid on the

grass and brushed thoroughly. Wlien there is

no garden or yard they must be swept in the

room to which they belong. If much soiled, wa^h

them over in the same way as carpets.

White Skin Rugs. - If these are large it is wise

to send them to a professional cleaner to be

cleaned, as it is too much of an undertaking to

attempt them at home, and the result is not Ukely

to be satisfactory. A small skin rug can, how-

ever, be washed without much trouble. Prepare

a tub of warm water and make a strong lather

with melted soap or soap powder, adding

enough ammonia to make the water smell rather

strongly. Put the rug into this and knead it well

with the hands, or put it on to a washing-board

and brush with a brush. Repeat the process

in a second soapy water if the first is not sufficient

to clean the rug. Rinse thoroughly in warm

soapy water ; put it two or three times through

the wringing-macliine. It is always better to

leave a little soap in the skin, as this helps to

keep it soft. Shake the rug well, in the open

air if possible, and dry in a good wind or indoors

in a warm atmosphere, but not too near a fire.

Whilst drying the rug should be shaken and

rubbed occasionally to keep the skin soft.

Cocoanut- Fibre Door- Mats. - These should be

beaten right side downwards, and on a green if

possible. When very dirty, wash them "with hot

water and soda and a very strong brush. Then

dip the brush in salt and water and wash over

again. The salt will help to keep the fibre stiff.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DUSTING

It is very important that aU dust should be

removed from oior rooms, not only because

dusty rooms are uncon.fortable and unpleasant

to look upon, but also because dust is one of the

sources of disease when we inhale it into our

lungs.

The first point in dusting is to be provided

^vith the proper sort of duster. This should be

made of some soft material that will gathpr up

the dust, and something smooth that leaves no

fluf?. In large families there is generally some

old material that can be used for the purpose,

such as remains of old curtains, or print dresses,

old window-blinds, or even thin bed-covers, which

have become too shabby to serve their original

purpose. Cotton is as a rule better than Unen.

A duster must always be hemmed. A ragged

duster should never be used for fine work, as it is

very likely to catch on to some ornament or

pointed furniture and cause an accident. Old

dusters can alwaj's be used up in the cleaning of

grates, brasses, and the like.

It is a good plan when dusting a room to work

with two dusters, one slightly damp to gather up

the dust, and the other dry to follow after and

polish up. The aim in dusting must be to

remove the dust and not merely to flick it from

one part of the room to another. The duster

ought to be rolled up into a sort of pad, the dust

collected in it and then shaken out of the window

from time to time. The work must be done

on some distinct plan to ensure every part of

the room having attention. Commence at one

corner of the room and work steadily round it

until every article has been dusted. High and

out-of-reach places should be dusted first, as then

any dust falling from the upper part will be re-

moved when the lower part is being done. It

is not only the tops of fm-niture and the places

that are seen that require dusting, the backs of

chairs, chair and table legs, the ledges of wains-

coting, and other out-of-the-way places all

require attention. When dusting a chimney-

piece or table where small ornaments, &c., aje

placed, Mft each article separately, dust it and

also the surface tmderneath it before laying it

down again. A furnitiu-e brush should be used

for the dusting of ornamental fiu-niture.

THE CJLEANING OF FURNITURE

All furniture requires regular dusting to keep

it in good order. A soft duster is necessary ;

in fact, it is best when dusting and polishing

to work with two dusters, one with which to hold

the article of furniture, and the other to do the

dusting and rubbing up. A soft brush will be a

help for any twisted or ornamental parts.

Upholstered fui-niture will also require a

brush, and especial attention must be given to

the crevices, and folds and buttons on chairs.

Furniture brushes can be bought in many

Kurniture Brushes.

different patterns, and it is as well to choose

the one that is best suited to the work to be

done.

It must be remembered when dusting and

rubbing up furniture that more can be done by

plenty of " elbow grease " than by any amount

of furnitvu-e polish ; in fact, this latter is often

used in far too lavish a manner.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

In addition to the regular dusting a more

thorough cleaning and rubbing up will be re-

quired at periodic intervals, and then some

furniture polish may be applied. This may

be prepared at home in one of the following

ways : -

(1) Put into a bottle equal quantities of

boiled linseed oil and brown vinegar - shake

together and use as required. This is very

simple and very good.

(2) Take equal quantities of linseed oil, tur-

pentine, brown v-inegar and methylated spirits

and mix all together in a bottle.

:Many other formulas might be given, and

melted bees' -wax is a very favourite ingredient,

but although a good thing it requires an amount

of very hard rubbing to remove the effect of

its sticky properties. Furniture polishes may be

bought ready prepared, and many of these are so

good and so inexpensive that it is just a question

whether it is worth one's while to go to the

trouble of making one's own.

Furniture polish must never be used until the

furniture has been well dusted, or it will smear

and clog. Shake the bottle before beginning,

and apply a little with a flannel or soft cotton

pad. Rub it well into the wood, and evenly

according to the grain. It should never be used

in excess. Afterwards rub off with a soft duster

and polish with a second duster or chamois

leather.

When working with furnitxare polish be carefxil

to place the bottle where it is not likely to be

knocked over.

At spring-cleaning time, or at least once a year,

most furniture will be improved by being washed

before polishing.

Mahogany Furniture should be washed either

with cold tea or with vinegar and water. Use

a soft flannel or sponge for the plain pieces and

a soft brush for any carved or ornamental parts.

Dry and then polish as above.

Oak Furniture. - A little warm beer is the best

thing for washing this, as it improves the colovu".

This is better than soap and water, and especially

for old oak, as soap would spoil the appear-

ance of the wood. When dry, polish with

furniture cream.

Highly Polished Furniture should be washed

with methylated spirits and water. Put two

table -spoonfuls of methylated spirits into three

broakfast-cupfuls of warm water, wring a small

sponge out of this and weish the furnitvire all

over. Dry and polish with a chamois leather.

No further polishing will be necessary.

Pitch-Pine Furniture may be washed with warm

water and a little soap, but care must be taken

not to make it too wet.

Stains on Furniture. - White Stains, which are

duo to hot dishes having been placed upon the

wood, can bo removed with spirits of camphor.

Rub well in with a soft rag and then polish the

wood in the usual way. Ink Stains can be

removed by rubbing them with a little oxalio

acid. Do not spread the acid over the wood

more than is necessary. A cork is a good thing

to use for the application. Wash off with warm

water and then polish.

Upholstered Furniture. - To clean this thor-

oughly it should be well beaten and brushed in

the open air. If the material with wliich it is

covered becomes soiled and dirty, it may be

considerably restored by rubbing it over with

warm bran or fig-dust, which can be bought

from any corn -dealers. Benzine will probably

remove any obstinate stains.

Leather Chairs. - These can be washed when

dirty simply with soap and tepid water. Rub

very Ughtly with a sponge, and then wipe off the

soap and dry with a soft cloth. Very Uttle water

must be used. When dry, poUsh with the

Unseed oil and vinegar polish, or with an

application of wliite of egg slightly beaten.

White Wiclcer Chairs. - Wash with soap and

warm water and a soft brush. Rinse off the

soap, and rub the cane over with equal quantities

of lemon juice and water, or with a pennyworth

of oxalic acid mixed in two cupfuls of water ;

this will help to whiten the cane. Put the

chairs in the open air to dry.

Grease stains may be removed from wicker

by rubbing them with a little methylated spirits.

FIRES AND FIREPLACES

Before beginning to lay a fire or clean a grate,

the hearth-rug, if there is one, should be rolled

up and put on one side and a hearth- cloth

laid down over the carpet. Any coarse close

material will do for this, such as sacking, tick,

or an old cretonne curtain ; but care must be

taken to spread always the clean side next the

carpet.

Have at hand everything that will be required

for the cleaning of the grate and the laying of

the fire. Some old newspaper, dry sticks, and

a supply of small coal ; a sweep's brush or

grate brush, a small shovel, black-lead or other

stove polish, with brushes for putting it on and

polishing ; one or two dusters, the necessary

materials for cleaning steel or brass, and a pair

of gloves. The best plan is to keep all these

in readiness in a housemaid's box, which is

usually fitted with small divisions for keeping

the different requisites, and is sometimes pro-

vided with a cinder-sifter as well. A pair of

gloves should always be worn, as there is nothing

worse than black-lead for the hands, and there

is no occasion to have them unnecessarily

spoilt.

First remove the fire-irons and place them on

the hearth-cloth. Then clean out the fiireplace,

using a piece of stick for the purpose, as this

will make leas noise than the poker. Be careful

to make as Uttle dust as possible. Next brush

the back of the grate and inside the fireplace

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

■with the sweep's brush, and remove all ashes and

cinders. The latter must be reserved for lajdng

the fire, or if there are too many,

biu-nt in the kitchen or boiler

stove. The grate must now be

thoroughly dusted before any

black-leading or poHshing takes

place.

If the stove requires black-

leading, apply a very little black-

lead that has been moistened with

water and a few drops of ttirpen-

tine, by means of the black-lead

brush. Or instead of black-lead

a specially prepared stove polish

may be used, such as Nixelene or

EnameHne; and this is almost

simpler and cleaner, as there is

no danger of it being splashed

over any siu:rounding tiles, or

even on the carpet. Brush oS

with a poUshing brush, and then

finish ofi with a firm polisher. There is no

occasion to use much black-lead or poUsh ; in

fact, if a stove is in constant use, it will not

likely be required every day ; a rub up with

the polisliing brushes will be stifficient, except

Sweei)^s Brush.

Black-lead Brushes.

perhaps once a week when the room is having

a more thorough cleaning.

The bajs of the grate wUl always require a

little extra attention, and may reqiiire to be

blackened more often.

Next lay the fire. Many people never succeed

in lajdng a fire that will burn well, because they

pack it too tightly and do not leave enough space

for the air to get through between the paper and

sticks. Conunence by laying a few cinders at

the foot of the grate with some lightly crumpled

paper on the top. Next place in some sticks

crossways, allowing some of the ends to rest on

the bars of the grate, and then some more large

cinders or small pieces of coal on the top. The

fire should be made to slope backwards, so that

when it is first hghted the smoke will not blow

into the room. Fire-lighters may be used

instead of ordinary sticks ; they are resined and

burn up very quickly.

If the front and sides of the grate are tiled,

rub these over daily with a duster, and occasion-

ally wash them with a flannel wrung out of warm

water and a little sunlight soap ; rinse, dry with

cloth, and polish with a chamois leather. If

the tUes are stained, a httle Sapolio rubbed on

the flannel and appUed rather dry will gene-

rally remove the marks ; then wash over and

finish as before. Do not use too much water

when doing the cleaning, as it will be Uable to

sink into the cement and ultimately loosen the

tiles.

Then finally clean the fender curb and fire-

irons. If these are of brass, copper or steel, it

will be s\ifiicient to rub them well with a dry

duster or chamois leather each day, and to give

them a more thorough cleaning, say once a

week. (See cleaning of brass, steel or copper,

p. 72.) If they are made partly of iron and

partly of steel, &c., the iron part may be brushed

over with the pohshing brushes, or a little

Brunswick black may be used to the fender if it

becomes very shabby. Black-lead must on no

account be put on the handles of fire-irons.

If an iron grate is not to be used for some time,

it is a good plan to rub it up with a little Pvonuk ;

this will not only keep it looking bright, but will

prevent rust. Directions for use are given with

each tin.

If by any chance the grate has become rusty,

rub well with a mixture of bath-brick dust and

paraffin, then wash off and dry before polisliing.

Grates that are seldom used are sometimes

painted with Brunswick black to keeo them in

good condition.

CARE OF CHIMNEYS

Chimney on Fire. - This can to a large extent

be prevented by keeping the chimneys clean.

Every chimney should be swept once or twice

a year at least, and oftener if the fireplace is

in constant use. Kitchen chimneys should bo

swept oftener ; throe or four times a yeai' will not

be too much if large fires are kept burning daily.

In addition to the thorough cleaning given by

the sweep, any soot which accumulates near the

fireplace should be swept away with the sweep's

brush when the different grates ai'e cleaned.

If the chimney should catch fire the first thing

to do is to close the door and •n-indow to prevent

a strong current of air from increasing the flames.

Then throw over the fire a few handf uls of salt,

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

■when it will as a rvile burn itself out in a very

short time.

HOW TO SCRUB A ROOM

The room must first be cleeired of as much

furniture as convenient, and all rugs and pieces

of carpet rolled up and put on one side. Then

sweep the room with a soft broom, and remove

aH the dust in a shovel.

Have readj- a kneeUng-mat, a pail of warm

water, a scrubbing brush, a piece of house

flannel or a swab, and a little soft soap.

Commence at the corner of the room farthest

from the door. Wring the flannel out of the

Scrubbing- Brush.

■water, and wet as much of the boards as the

arm can conveniently reach. Put a httle soap

on the brush and scrub each piece thoroughly

backwsurds and forwards, and -with the grain of

the wood. This loosens the dirt, and it is now

important to have it removed. Wring the

flannel again out of the water and wipe the

portion of board that was scrubbed until all the

soap is gathered up ; then dry with a coarse

cloth. Do not make the boards wetter than is

necessary to make them clean, especially if it is

a floor that has a ceiUng underneath, and change

the water as soon as it becomes dirty. Work

methodically over every paxt of the floor until

all is finished.

If the wood is greasy, a little soda may be added

to the water, and when washing boards that are

much soiled a little sand used along with the

soap win be a help. A bad stain can be usually

removed from a floor by spreading it with a

paste made of Fuller's earth and hot water,

allowing it to remain overnight and then washing

off.

When finished, allow a good current of air to

pass through the room to dry it ; or on a damp

day it is better to have a fire burning, more

especially if it is a bedroom or a room that will

be used immediately.

CARE OF POLISHED FLOORS

These should bo swept and dusted every day.

First remove as much as possible of the surface

dust with a soft short-handled broom and dust-

pan, or, if there is a large surface of flooring

under treatment, a long broom can bo used.

Then rub the floor with a dry duster, or what is

better still, with a floor-duster. If there is much

polished flooring to be kept in order, it is very

important that the worker should not do it on

Floor-Duster.

her knees. Then once a week the floor should be

pohshed.

To Prepare Floor Polish. - Shred down I lb.

bees' -wax, and put it into a jar v/ith ^ pint

turpentine ; allow tliis to melt slowly in the oven

or on the side of the stove, stirring occasionally

with a wooden stick.

Rub a httle of this on to the floor ■with a piece

of flannel and then poUsh with a pad, which can

be bought for the purpose, or ■with a floor-

poUsher.

Special floor poUshes can also be bought pre-

pared, such as Ronuk, Jackson's C&mphorated

Floor-Polisher.

Pohsh, &c., and the use of one of these would of

course save the trouble of making, but 't would

come a little more expensive than the simple

bees' -wax and tiurpentine.

TO CLEAN LINOLEUM OR FLOOR-CLOTH

Much washing and scrubbing is bad for the

ordinary linoleum. It should be well swept

every day, and only washed when necessary.

Take a pail of warm water, some plain yellow

soap, and a piece of house flannel, and wash the

hnoleum with this. Wring out the flannel and

take up as much of the moisture as possible.

Then dry with a clean dry towel. If the linoleum

is very dirty and requires a brush, then a soft one

only must be used. The use of soda, ammonia,

or washing powders must be avoided.

....r^

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK

Greenwich Linoleum, which has the pattern

all the way through, can be washed with warm

water, a flannel, and a little Brook's soap. This

revives the colour and makes it look like new.

To give the linoleum a more finished appearance,

it may be rubbed over with a little skimmed milk

after washing and finished with a dry cloth ; or

with a httle glue water made thus : - Take one

ounce of glue powder or shredded glue, dissolve

it in one pint of boiling water and allow it to

melt, stirring occasionally with a stick. The

linoleum may of course be pohshed if a brighter

gloss is desired. (See Polished Floors, p. 66.)

Indian Matting. - This should be washed on the

floor with a strong solution of salt and water and

then dried quickly with a soft cloth. Or, if it

becomes very much soiled, take it up and scrub

with soap and water and a moderately hard

brush. Rinse on both sides and dry with a

cloth or in the open air. If there are stains on

the matting a little ammonia might be added to

the water or some benzine applied to the spot.

Care of Tiled Floors. - Sweep every day with a

soft broom ; and once or twice a week, or oftener

if necessary, wash them over with soap and

water. Take some water in a pail and add to it

a little soap powder or melted soap. Use either

a house flannel or brush to wash with. If the

tiles are very dirty a brush will be required.

Rinse oS the soap, and then make as dry as

possible with the flannel. A little Brook's soap

or Sapolio will be useful for removing any stains.

If it is desired to have a poUsh on the tiles, they

may be rubbed over with a little milk after

washing, or with Unseed oil and turpentine mixed

in equal quantities.

THE MAKING AND CABE OF BEDS

However well chosen and hygienic a bed may

be, if it is not well made, the cornfort of it will be

greatly reduced, if not altogether spoilt.

A bed must be thoroughly well aired every day

for an hour at least before making. The windows

of the bedroom should first be thi'own open top

and bottom, the bed-curtains drawn back, if

there are any, then the clothes stripped oS the

bed one at a time and placed over the back of

a chair or chairs. The pillows and bolster must

be well shaken and beaten, and placed near the

open window if possible, and then the mattress

raised on its two ends so as to form an arch for the

air to pass through. If there is a feather mat-

tress, this should be laid over the end of the bed.

In making a bed individual taste should always

be considered. Some like all the surplus length

of blanket doubled over at the top, while others

like the covering only to reach to the shoulders ;

and in the case of a feather-bed some like the bed

made so as to slope towards the foot, and others

prefer it perfectly flat, and so on. These may

appear fads, but it entails no extra trouble to

givo in to them - only a little thought; and

attention to these small details may add very

much to the comfort and real repose of the

sleeper.

It is always better and more expeditious if two

people can be engaged in the making of the beds ;

and needless to say their hands should be spot-

lessly clean, and they should each wear a clean

apron or overall.

The mattress must be turned each morning

- one day from top to bottom, and the next

from side to side - so as to ensure equal wear.

If there is a feather-bed, it must be thoroughly

shaken to prevent lumps. Take the two op-

posite corners and shake the feathers towards

the centre, then the other two corners and do

the same, and next the sides. When the feathers

seem perfectly hght and free from lumps,

smooth the mattress over, being particular to

fill the corners with feathers. If any feathers

shovdd come out during the process, it will

generally be from a hole in the seam, and this

should at once be attended to and sewn together

with a needle and cotton.

In laying the clothes on the bed each article

must be put on separately, and not thrown on in

a mass to save time. They must be put on

evenly, allowing the same amount to come over

each side of the bed and be tucked in all round.

It is also most important to have them free from

wrinkles or folds of any kind.

When the mattress is arranged, next put on

the binder or under-blanket. This should be

wide enough to tuck in well at the sides of the

bed, when it will hold the mattress together and

make the bed smoother and more comfortable.

The under-sheet is now put on and tucked in all

round, and the bolster laid on the top at the

head of the bed, unless no bolster-sHp is used,

when the under-sheet must be left long enough

to fold over the bolster and completely cover it,

but this is not such a comfortable arrangement.

Next, place on the top sheet with the wrong side

uppermost, and the widest hem at the top to

turn over the blankets. On the top of the

sheets lay the blankets with the open end at the

top (as it is easy then to throw off one fold if the

occupant of the bed should find it too hot).

Then a coverlet or sheet should cover all, and

must be light in weight, as it is meant for night

use. This should be turned in over the blankets

at the top, and the end of the sheet tm-ned over

it; the blankets are thus preserved from dust,

and the bed has a more inviting appearance

when it is turned down for the night. Then

slip in the pillow or pillows on the top of the

bolster without flattening them down, and on a

double bed place the opening of the sHp to the

inside of the bed. Lastly may be put on a

pretty counterpane, which is removed at night.

This should not be tucked in, but allowed to hang

over the sides in graceful folds. If there is a

centre pattern, be sure that tins comes to the

centre of the bed, and any surplus length may bo

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

laid in folds at the foot. If carefully folded up

at night and eJways in the same folds, the

counterpane will keep clean for quite a long

time, and it adds very much to the dfiinty appear-

once of the bedroom during the day.

If an eider-dowTi is used it should be rolled up

or folded double at the foot of the bed. Those

•who like warmth without weight will find it a

great advantage to make the bed with the eider-

down between the upper sheet and the blankets.

The warmth is thereby sensibly increased, and

if the eider-down is well ventilated it is not

unliealthy.

If pillow shams and sheet shams are used,

the pillows should be placed on the outside of

the counterpane during tlie day, and the sheet

sham slipped under the bed-clothes and arranged

so that the embroidered edge rests on the

counterpane.

If there are curtains, draw these back and

arrange the ends neatly on the pillows.

Turning down a Bed. - First remove the

eider-down ; tlien take off the counterpane and

sheet and pillow shams, if there are such, and

fold all these up very carefully, and place them

where they will not be crushed nor sat upon.

Then turn down the clothes about a foot or a

foot and a half at the top of the bed, and one

corner, or two corners if it is a double bed, may

be turned back again towards the centre, but

this is a matter of taste. It is also a question of

taste whether the clothes be left tucked in at

the sides or loosened. Let down and draw any

curtains. See that pillows are nice and smooth

and all straight and even, and then replace the

eider-down, spreading it out over the bed this

time.

Care of Beds. - The strictest cleanliness must

be observed as regards beds, not merely in

the changing of the linen, but in the bed itself

and everything about it.

One hears of beds the spars of which are

never dusted except at the annual period of

spring cleaning, and sometimes not even then.

We ought to remember that the dust in our

houses, and especially in our bedrooms, is not

only earth dust, soot, fraying of carpets and

curtains, &c., but that there is a large admixture

of animal matter, for our outer skin or cuticle

is constantly peeling off and being removed ; and

added to that, this dust if not removed becomes

impregnated with noxious gases exhaled from our

lungs and from the pores of our bodies, and

poisons the air we breathe, thereby greatly

lessening the beneficial effects of sleep. Every

part of the bedstead should be carefully dusted

once a week, a small brush being used if neces-

sary. The best time for this will be before the

bed is made on the day the room is thoroughly

cleaned.

ITie bedstead itself, and especially the under-

part, should bo washed with warm water and

carbolic soap at least once a year. If at any

time insects should appear, the bedstead should

be rubbed over with paraflSn or very strong

ammonia.

Japanned bedsteads may be revived by rub-

bing them over with a little paraffin, and then

poUshing with a leather or soft duster.

Brass bedsteads should bo dusted daily, and

occasionally rubbed over with a little sweet oil

and polished with a leather. Metal polish

should not be used, as the brass is lacquered.

If this wears off it will reqxiire special treat-

ment.

If the mattresses and pillows have been

covered with cotton slips (see p. 258), it is very

easy to have these taken off and washed as soon

as they become soiled. The bedding can then

be thoroughly brushed and beaten, special

attention being paid to the edges and to the

little corners where the mattress is tacked down.

If this can be done out of doors, so much the

better.

The mattresses ought to be taken to pieces

and re- made every few years - not merely because

they will, even with the most careful treatment,

eventually form into hard lumps and hollows,

but because they will really require to be pvu-ified

from animal matter. Although it is possible to

do this at home, this course is scarcely to be

recommended. It is much wiser and simpler to

send them to a good upholsterer.

Blankets, too, must be washed or cleaned when-

ever they require it. Once or t'wice a year will

be sufficient under ordinary circumstances, pro-

vided they have proper care in the way of airing,

shaking, and being kept covered from dust ; but

if they have been used in the case of illness they

must of course be washed specially, and if thљ

illness is an infectious one, disinfected as well.

EMPTYING OF SLOPS AND CARE OF

THE WASH-STAND

The appliances necessary for tliis portion of

household work are : a slop-pail, a can of

boiling water in which a little soda has been

dissolved, a small mop,

two slop-cloths, and a

glass- towel. The slop-

pail used for carrying

about is best made of

enamelled tin, as it is

easily kept in order and

there is no danger of its

breaking. It should al-

ways bo fitted with a lid.

The slop-cloths should

be of some thin open

material, which can be

washed and dried easily. RIop-Pail.

One must be used for the basin and wash-stand

and the second for the chamber and bedroom

slop-pail. It is important to keep each cloth

for its special purpose.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

Commence by emptjdng everytliing into the

slop-pail. Pour a little of the hot soda-water

into the chamber, and aUow it to remain there

while the wash-stand is being put in order.

Rinse out the basin with clean water, using a

little of the soda-water if necessary to remove any

stain or soap-suds. Then pour a little clean

water into the basin and rinse the tumbler and

water-bottle, and dry them with the glass-towel.

Next rinse any sponges or loofahs, &c., and

either hang them up to dry or place them in a

sponge basket. Then pour out the water, and

wipe the basin thoroughly with its special cloth.

Empty the ewer and wash it out if necessary.

If rain water is used there is frequently a con-

siderable amount of sediment which settles at

the foot of the jug.

Wipe also the wash-stand, Ufting each article

and wiping it clean. Pay particidar attention

to the soap-dish.

Wash the chamber with the mop, using the

water that has been standing in it ; rinse and

dry with the special cloth. If there is a slop-pail

belonging to the room, empty this also, wash

with hot water, using the mop. Then rinse

with cold, and dry with the chamber cloth.

Finally fill up the ewer and water-bottle with

fresh water. The former with soft water if

available, and the latter with drinking water.

It is very important that the ewer should be

quite emptied every day ; if old water is allowed

to remain and just a little fresh added, the

water will very soon begin to smell. So let it all

be jresh.

Cover the slop-pail before taking it from the

room, and have the contents emptied at once.

Care too must be taken to keep tliis pail very

clean and fresh. It should be rinsed out every

day with hot soda-wa.er; rinsed, dried, and

then left with the lid off to air. The lid should

have the same treatment, and then be hung up

until required again.

The two slop- cloths should be washed every

day and hung up to dry. The glass-towel if

properly used ought to last a week.

Once a week, usually on the day the bedroom

is being turned out, the wash-stand, &c., wiU

require a more thorough cleaning.

The ware should be taken out of the room if

possible and well washed in the housemaid's

pantry or bath-room. Use hot water and a

little paraffin soap or soap-powder. Pay par-

ticular attention to the handles of ewer and

chamber, and use sniall brush for the corners, if

necessary. The inside of the ewer too must be

washed as well as the outside, and a little soda-

water may be required to remove discoloration.

If the water-bottle has become stained and

dim, it ought to have special treatment. (See

p. 75.)

Wash the wash-stand with a little soap and

water, using a washing flannel or soft brush ;

wipe off the soap and rub up with a towel. Then

replace the ware, and supply with water and

soap too if required.

TO CLEAN WALLS AND CEILINGS

Papered Walls, when they become dirty,

should be thorouglily dusted. To do this, tie

a clean soft duster over the head of a long-

handled broom. Any soft broom will do, pro-

vided the wall is not very high, in which case

it is almost necessary to have a special waU-

broom, or Turk's-head broom, which has a

jointed bamboo handle,

and can be shortened or

lengthened as required.

Sweep every part of the

wall, moving the brush

up and down in long

straight lines, and be

particxilar to remove all

dust from any cornice or

mouldings. The duster

must be changed when

it becomes dirty.

If the paper has still a

soiled appearance after

dusting, it may be

further improved by

rubbing it all over with

stale bread. Cut a

plain dry loaf in four

pieces, and rub the

paper aU over with it.

It will be necessary to

mount on a pair of

steps to do this. Commence at one of the top

corners and rub with Ught even strokes, under-

taking about a yard at a time. There is no need

to rub very hard ; too much vigoiir would only

destroy the surface of the paper. Go over each

piece in a careful methodical way, and in the order

most convenient to yourself. This manner of

cleaning will make a considerable difference to

dirty wall-paper.

The ceiling of a room can be cleaned in the

same way, and special attention must be given to

the corners, where cobwebs so frequently lodge.

Varnished Paper and Painted Walls may be

washed ajter dusting. Take a pail of tepid water,

and add to it enough melted soap to make a

hght lather. Use a sponge, and wash the wall

all over with this. Then carefully remove the

soap with a second sponge or chamois leather

wrung out of clear cold water. Leave the wall

to dry without any further wiping.

TO CLEAN WINDOWS

Windows must never be cleaned in frosty

weather, as the glass is then very brittle and

would be liable to break as soon as moisture

were appUed. Choose a dull di-y day when the

sun is not shining upon them.

Turk's-head Broom.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Painter's Brash.

First dust the windows inside and out, axid

also the woodwork surrovinding them. A

painter's brush or any other soft brush is the

best thing for the purpose. Then take some

tepid water and add enough liquid ammonia to

it to make it smell slightly, or a small quantity

of paraffin. Wring a sponge or chamois leather

out of tliis and wash over the

window with it, paying particular

attention to the sides and corners.

Finish off with a linen duster

or a dry chamois leather. No

material of a fluffy nature must

be used. Clean soft newspaper

makes a very good polisliing-pad.

Commence always at the top and

work downwards.

Paint or other stains can bo

removed from the glass with a

little vinegar or oxaUc acid.

Various powders are now sold

for cleaning windows without

water, and these in many cases

are found quite satisfactory.

Directions for use are given with

each special make.

It must be remembered that

no woman is allowed to sit or

stand outside an upstairs window

in order to clean it ; so that for large windows

wliich cannot be cleaned from the inside, it

will be necessary to employ a man. These

men usually bring their own apparatus. The

usual charge for cleaning is about 2d. a

window.

TO CLEAN BLINDS

Venetian Blinds. - These ought to be thor-

oughly dusted once a week. Let the blinds down,

and by means of a pair of steps, dust all the

webbing and the cords. Then with a soft duster

dust each lath separately. Commence at the

top and work downwards. Do one side first,

all the way down, then turn the blind and dust

the other side. Put the duster over the finger

and rub well round the cords where they pass

through the laths.

Once a year, or even oftener, Venetian blinds

should be washed. Take a basin or small pail

of warm water in which a little soap and borax

have been dissolved, wring a sponge out of this,

and wash each lath separately. Then di[> the

sponge into clean warm water and rub the soap

off the wood. Dry with a soft towel. Or, if

found ea-^ier, the laths may be removed. To do

tliis, undo the knot at the foot of the cord which

runs through the blind. Then pull out the cord

and remove the laths. Wash them as above,

and when thoroughly dry, put them back in

thi ir place and lace the cord through them.

Linen or Holland Blinds. - These should be

dusted weekly. Let the blind down as far as it

will go and with a soft duster wipe it well on both

sides. Dust also the cord and roller.

To clean them more thoroughly they should be

taken down, laid flat on a table and well dusted

on both sides. Then take some stale bread or

bran, and rub this lightly and quickly all over

the material. Dust off with a clean duster. If

this is not sufficient to clean them, they will

require to be washed. Unless the blinds are

small in size, it is not wise to attempt this at

home, as they really require special washing to

give them a good gloss and keep them in shape.

TO WASH PAINT

Dust the paint first, using a soft brush for

the purpose, as this is less likelj- to drive the

dirt into the wood than a cloth. Then have

ready at hand a pail of warm soft water, to

wliich a little dissolved soap has been added,

and a soft flannel ; a second pail of cold or tepid

water with a sponge, and a soft cloth or chamois

leather for drying. Wring the flannel out of

the soapy water, and wash the paint gently with

it. Do not use the flannel too wet, and be careful

to avoid splashing the surrounding wall. Then

rinse off the dirty soap with the sponge and

tepid water, and this will prevent the wood having

a smeary appearance. Finish off with the dry

cloth or leather.

Do not wet too much of the paint at one time ;

if there is a large quantity of woodwork to be

done iL will be a great advantage if two can be

engaged at the work; one to wash, and the

second to follow and do the rinsing and drjang.

The water must be changed as soon as it becomes

dirty.

For varnished paint use tepid water only ; in

fact for any paint care must be taken not to

have the water too hot.

Soda must never be used, but a little borax

may be added with safety to water that is hard.

Care must be taken, too, that the soap used is

of a pure and simple kind. Good yellow soap,

mottled soap, or carbolic soap are to be recom-

mended. Then as regards the flannel, the

ordinary house flannel is too rough, and house-

keepers would do well to save up any pieces of

old flannel, woven under-garments, old b'ankets,

&c., for this purpose. The towels, too, that aro

used must not be of a fluffy nature ; old huck-

aback bedroom towels are excellent for the

purpose.

The woodwork in a house should bo washed at

least twice a year. Flics and other insects lay

their eggs along the crevices of doors andwindows,

and by keeping these clean we can do much to

avoid the arrival of these unwelcome visitors.

Finger-marks and other marks should, of course,

be removed as need arises ; a little benzine

applied on a flannel, or simply a gentle rub with

a soapy sponge, will be sufficient. All hard rub-

bing must be avoided.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

White Enamel Paint. - The following is a very

good preparation for cleaning this special kind

of paint : -

Take one gill of vinegar, one gill paraffin, and

half -gill linseed oil, and shake them together in a

bottle. Apply this to the paint with a clean

sponge or soft flannel and the result will be

excellent. No washing is required.

TO CLEAN MARBLE

When marble is in good condition, it can be

kept in order by simply washing it with soap and

water, rinsed off and then dried. This would

apply to marble wash-stands and slabs which are

in frequent use.

A chimney-piece which is not cleaned so often

may require a httle stronger treatment. Dust

it first, and in this case a Uttle shredded Brook's

soap or SapoUa used along with ordinary yellow

soap or soft soap will be efficacious, and a

brush should be used for any ornamental

parts. Al"7avs rinse off the soap, and take a

second water if necessary. Dry with a cloth

and polish with a chamois leather. Black or

grey marble may be rubbed over with a

little linseed oil after washing to give it a

gloss.

If the marble is stained, the appearance of it

may be improved by the following treatment : -

Take 1 oz. powdered chalk, 1 oz. powdered

pumice-stone and 2 ozs. soda - pound these

together and pass them through a sieve. Then

make them into a paste with boiling water, and

spread this over the marble, especially over the

stained parts. Allow it to remain overnight,

and wash off as before.

Another way of cleaning marble is to coat it

all over with a layer of thick hot-water starch

(see p. 280). This starch penetrates in+o all

the cre%'ices and absorbs the surface dirt. Wlien

dry it will scale off in large pieces, bringing the

dirt away with it. Then wash with soap and

water and dry as before.

Oxalic acid, too, will sometimes remove a stain,

but it must be rubbed on and washed o2 again

very quickly, as it will discolour the marble if

allowed to remain. If a stain is very deep-

seated the only sure way of eradicating it is to

have the marble repolished.

Marble Statuary should be washed with soap

and water only. Sunlight or paraffin soap is

good, but nothing of a gritty nature must be

used. The washing should be done with soft

brushes, small ones being used for any corners

or intricate parts. The water must be changed

whenever it becomes dirty, and care must be

taken t(. rinse off all soap. Allow the marble

to dry, and then polish with a leather or soft diy

brush.

Marble statuary may also be eleaned with a

paste of starch as above.

TO CLEAN PICTURES

The Glass. - To clean the glass of pictures,

dust it first with a soft silk or muslin duster.

Then put one tablespoonful of methylated

spirits into a small basin of warm water (about

two breakfast-cupfuls), wring a sponge out of

this and wash the picture glass all over. Be

careful not to wet the frame when cleaning the

corners and edges. Pay particular attention to

any fly-marks or other stains. Then dry with

a fine towel and polish with a chamois leather.

Oil-Paintings. - These require very careful

treatment. They should be dusted frequently

with an old silk handkerchief or feather brush,

but if the latter is used one must make sure

there are no sharp pieces of quill or wire fasten-

ings which might scratch the canvas. The

picture must be taken down to be cleaned

thoroughly. First of aU it should be dusted,

back and front. Then sponge the oil-painting

very carefully with a fine sponge or piece of

cotton-wool wrung out of lukewarm water.

Soap must on no account be used. Rub the

svirface over Ughtly and quickly, and do not

allow it to remain wet longer than is needful.

Dry with a fine cloth or chamois leather. This

can of course only be done to oil-paintings that

have a coating of varnish over them, as it is the

varnish only that will bear the washing. If

this gets rubbed or worn off, the picture must

be dusted only. If an oil-painting becomes

very much discoloured and dirty through age,

it is better to send it to an expert to have

scientific treatment, as trying different things

at home might easily end in injuring the picture.

Brass Picture-Chains. - These become very

dirty after they have been exposed to the atmos-

phere for some time, but they can be made to

look quite fresh again by the following treat-

ment : - Brush them first with a soft brush, so

as to remove as much of the dust as possible.

Then plunge them into a pail of boiling water

to which a good handful of soda has been added,

and allow them to remain until that is cold.

Next wash them in clean hot water with soap

and a brush, rinse and hang them up to dry.

Finally they may have a rub with the chamois

leather.

Gilt Picture-Frames. - If the frames are made

of inferior gilt they wiU not endure much clean-

ing. Dust them carefully with a soft brush, and

if the gilt has chipped off in places it may be

touched up with a little gold paint, which can be

bought at any oil-shop.

To clean good English gilt frames, dust them

first with a soft brush or silk handkerchief, then

wash gently with a small fine sponge wrung out

of equal quantities of methylated spirits and

water. Or a camel's-hair brush may be used

instead of the sponge. Dry with a chamois

leather.

A little onion water applied with a spongo

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

sometimes helps to restore the colour of the

gilding, and also keeps off flies.

Prepare it thus : - Remove the skin from two

or three onions and boil them in two breakfast-

cupfuls of water until all the goodness is ex-

tracted. Strain through a very fine strainer or

piece of muslin and use warm.

JAPANESE JRAYS OR PAPIER-

MACHE ARTICLES

•Clean these by washing them gently with a

sponge wrung out of tepid water. Tlien dry

with a cloth and poUsh with a little dry flour

rubbed on with a soft dtister or chamois leather.

TO CLEAN MIRRORS

First remove all dust. Then take a basin of

tepid water and add enough ammonia to make

it smell slightly. Wring a sponge or chamois

leather out of this, and wash the glass all over,

going carefully round the edges and into the

corners to avoid wetting the frame, and especially

if it is a gilded one.

Dry with a soft towel, and polish with a

chamois leather or old sUk handkerchief.

If the mirror has not been cleaned for some

time, and is smeared and stained, instead of

washing it, make a paste with fine whitening and

methylated spirits, and rub this well over the

glass with a piece of flannel. When dry, rub

oS with a duster and polish as before.

For gilt frames see p. 71.

TO CLEAN STEEL

If steel is rubbed daily with a dry duster or

leather, and so kept free from dust and moisture,

it ought tў retain its brightness for a considerable

time. When it requires extra cleaning, use very

fine emery paper ; No. 0 is best. Rub the steel

backwards and forwards with this, and always

in the one direction. Cross-rubbing will not

polish properly. Emery powder, fine bath-

brick dust or crocus powder made into a paste

with paraffin or methylated spirits are all good

things for the cleaning of steel. These should be

applied with a piece of flannel and well rubbed on

to the metal. Then a little of the dry powder

used for polishing and the chamois leather for

the final rub up.

The emery paper is, however, cleaner and

simpler to use, and unless the steel is allowed to

get into bad condition, it ought to be sufficient

to keep it in excellent order.

TO CLEAN BRASS

There are many different materials used for

the cleaning of brass, but perhaps nothing is

better than fine bath-brick dust or powdered

rotten-stone made into a paste with a littlo

paraffin or oil of turpentine. Apply tliis with

a flannel, rubbing the brass well ; then rub off

with a second flannel, using a little dry powder,

and polish with a duster or chamois leather.

There are also many modern polishes that can

be used, but with some of them the result,

although good to begin with, is not lasting ;

the brass tarnishes and becomes dim very

rapidly.

Tlie " Blue-bell " polish is one to be recom-

mended, and it has the advantage of being very

clean to use. Directions for its use are given

with each tin. If a paste of any kind is used,

care must be taken that none of it is left sticking

to the brass.

Outside brasses may be kept from tarnishing

by rubbing them over with a Uttle vaseline after

cleaning.

Benares Brass should be washed in very hot

soapy water, and well rubbed with a flannel or

soft brush. If the brass is greasy, add a little

borax to the water, then rinse in hot water and

dry with a towel. If the brass still remains

stained or discoloured, rub it over with the

squeezed half of a lemon and wash again.

Finally polish with a chamois leather. It is

better not to use any polishing paste for chased

work, as it is almost impossible to remove it

entirely ; but a Uttle dry whitening may be

used to poUsh with, if it is very carefully

brushed off.

Lacquered Brass requires very careful treat-

ment, and especially so if it is not of a very good

quality, as the appUcation of paste and a great

deal of rubbing would then be liable to remove

the lacquer, wliich is only a sort of varnish which

can quickly be worn off.

Lacquered articles should be rubbed up fre-

quently with a leather, and if this is not sufficient

to keep them in order, wash them in warm

water with soap and a flannel. Then dry and

polish. Soda must never be used when washing

lacquered goods, but a little borax may be added

if the water is hard.

THE CLEANING OF BOOKS

Books should be kept as free from dust as

possible. If the book-case is covered with glass

this is comparatively easy, but when the books

are placed on open shelves they will require

more attention. Care should be taken to

always cover them with a dust-sheet before any

sweeping is done in the room. Then from time

to time, or as often as necessary, the books should

bo removed from the shelves and thoroughly

dusted. Take them two at a time, and clap

them together to disperse the dust, then dtist

them gently with a very light duster or soft

clothes' -brush. The dust must not be rubbed

into the leaves. The shelves, too, should be

dusted before the books are returned to them.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

THE CABE OF A PIANO

The most important point is to protect it

from all damp. It should never be in a tempera-

ture under 60 dogs. Falirenheit, therefore it Ls

unwise to have it standing in a room where there

is no fire in winter. Great heat is also injiu-ious.

A piano should never be placed against an

outside wall, unless it can be protected in some

way, neither should it stand in a direct draught.

A strip of felt or a pad of silk is sometimes

placed over the keyboard to protect it from

damp and dust.

It is a bad plan to pile books and ornaments

on the top of a piano, as any weight is apt to

spoil the tone of the instrument. A flower vase

with water should be especially avoided, as

there is always the danger of the water being

spilt and soaking between the keys.

Pianos should be carefully dusted with a soft

cloth or silk duster, and polished when neces-

sary with a chamois leather. Any marks on

the keyboard may be removed with a damp

chamois leather, but soap and water should

never be iised.

A piano, whether it is in use or not, should be

tuned regularly by a competent tuner. An

arrangement can be made for this to be done

periodically, generally four times a year, for a

very moderate charge. This will preserve the

instrument and keep it at the necessary pitch.

BRASS CHANDELIERS OR GAS BRACKETS

Keep these free from dust with a soft brush or

duster. When they become soiled, wash with a

sponge wrung out of vinegar and water. Dry

with a soft cloth, and polish with a chamois

leather.

TO CLEAN BRONZE ORNAMENTS

These must never be washed. Dust with a

muslin or silk duster, and use a soft brush for any

ornamental part. If this is not sufficient to

make them clean, sponge the ornaments with

stale beer, using a small sponge, and when dry,

polish with a chamois leather.

TO CLEAN IVORY

Wash in lukewarm water with plain yellow

soap, using a soft brush if necessary to remove

dirt from any carved parts. Rinse and dry.

Then polish with a chamois leather. If the

ivory is stained, rub with a Uttle salt and vinegar,

or salt and lemon juice, after wasliing ; rinse and

dry as before.

Or, if the ivory is discoloured, lift it out of the

soapy water and stand it in the sun. Before it

becomes dry, repeat the process if necessary. It

must not be allowed to remain dry in a hot sun,

or it will warp. Rinse and dry as before.

Kneeling- Mat.

TO CLEAN DOOR-STEPS

First sweep away all the dust with an old

broom kept for the purpose. Then take a pail

of cold or tepid water, a piece of strong floor-cloth

or swab, and some rough hearth-stone, which can

be bought at the rate of two or three pieces for

a penny. A kneeling- mat must always be used.

Wring the cloth out of

the water, and wet over

as much as is con-

venient of the steps at

one time. Then rub

over with the stone

evenly backwards and

forwards, and not in

curves.

Next wring the cloth again out of the water,

and wipe the stone again to prevent it having a

patchy appearance when dry. Then go on to

the next piece of step and do it in the same way,

and so on until all is finished. The sides and

front of the steps must also have attention.

In frosty weather a handful of salt should be

put in the water, and this wiU prevent its

freezing.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR

" WASHING UP "

Before commencing the actual washing of

dishes, &c., a certain amount of preliminary

arrangement is necessary. First of all, one

must see that a plentiful supply of hot water is

available. If there is a hot- water supply in the

house, this is a simple matter if the fire is first

attended to, but if only a side boiler or kettles

are to be relied on, some looking ahead will be

necessary to see that these are filled in time,

and then refilled, when once they have been

emptied, in order to cause no delay in having

to wait for the water to boil.

Then everything that requires washing must

be collected together and put within easy reach.

The contents of dishes on which food has been

served must be put away on clean plates or basins.

All scraps of food, crumbs, remains of mustard

or jam, &c., must be removed from plates ;

slops must be poured out of teacups or coffee-

cups ; remains of tea and tea leaves from the

teapot, and so on.

If this were not done before starting the

washing, the water would not only become un-

necessarily dirty and require more frequent

changing, but the work itself would be dis-

agreeable.

Arrange all articles of one kind together,

plates of different sizes in neat piles, saucers by

themselves in another pile, cups by themselves,

and so on.

Silver and glass ought to be kept apart on a

tray, or in the case of the former in a plate-

basket, until they can be washed. They must

not be mixed up with other dishes.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Knives should be placed blades downwards

in a washer or jug of hot water. (See p. 76.)

If attention is paid to these small points,

*' wasliing up " will be a much simpler affair

than if it were just started in a muddle. Much

time too will be saved, as all unnecessary turning

round and walking about with wet and soapy

hands ^^•ill be avoided.

Two basins or small tubs will be necessary for

the wasliing, one for hot water and the second for

a cold or tepid rinsing water. For silver, glass

and fine china, a small wooden or pulp-ware tub

is best, as this is less liable to scratch or break

fine articles ; but for ordinary dishes, and

especially greeisy dishes, zinc or tin is preferable,

Eis it can bo kept clean more easily.

If the water is hard, it must be softened with

a little soda or borax, and a little soap or soap-

powder must be used if required. Care must,

however, be taken to avoid unnecessary extrava-

gance in the employment of these materials; there

is frequently considerable w£iste caused by their

needless use, and this must be guarded against.

With regard to dish-cloths, these are best

made of some open material which will not re-

tain the grease, such as thin old towelUng, or a

cheap canvas-like material sold for the piirpose.

Some people prefer a mop or dish-,brush

instead of the dish-cloth, and both are useful.

When all is arranged, commence with the

glass and silver, and when these are out of the

way start on the cleanest and least greasy of

the dishes. If there are two people to do the

work, then one can wash while the other does

the drying.

The water must be changed whenever it

becomes dirty ; continuing to wash in the dirty

water would only result in smeary dishes, with

probably an unpleasant smell. This is one of

the most important points to pay attention to.

Another very important point is the use of dry

and clean towels. The thickness of the towel

must be regulated according to the kind of

article being dried. Glass, silver, and china will

require fine smooth towels without a fluffy

surface, while coarser dishes will require a

coarse and stronger material. In all cases

the towels must be clean and free from grease,

and as they become wet should be hung near the

fire to dry.

Finally, when the " washing up " is finished

and everything put away in its place, the dish-

cloths or flannels that have been used must be

washed out and hung up to dry, and also any

towels that require it. The tub or basin must

be well washed and rinsed and set on end to air.

All then will bo clean and ready when wanted

again, and a pood worker is recognised by

attention to these small details.

3ee also detailed directions under special

articles.

For the washing of kitchen utensils, see pp.

92-94.

CARE OF SILVER

The daily care of silver is much more import-

ant than the thorough cleaning which is given to

it at stated intervals. In fact, if a Uttle extra

time were spent over the regular washing and

drj-ing, the " thorough cleaning," as it is called,

need not be oftener than once in tliree weeks or

a month.

The keeping of silver requires a good deal of

care, but it is not difficult if the work is done

with method, and attention paid to a few special

points.

Table silver should be washed as soon as

possible after it has been used. A papier

mache or wooden tub is the best for the purpose,

as then there will be Uttle danger of it scratching

the silver. Take water as hot as the liand can

bear, add a few drops of ammonia and enough

melted soap, " lux " or soap-powder to make a

nice lather. Wash the silver in this, using a

piece of flannel or soft towelling to rub it with.

Rinse in clean hot water, and dry with a finљ

towel whUe the silver is still warm. If allowed

to he wet, it will be difficult to remove the water-

marks. For this reason, if a large quantity of

silver is being done, it is better not to start it all

at one time, but one lot can be finished as far as

the rinsing, and the second lot put to soak in

the soapy water while the first lot is being dried.

When dry give each article a good rub up with

a chamois leather, and then arrange the silver

neatly and in order in the plate-basket, or on a

tray ready to put away.

Throughout the process the greatest care

must be taken not to scratch the silver, and

with this in view it is really better if forks can be

kept by themselves. In the case of real silver,

a careful worker will first lay a towel or piece of

flannel on the tray on wliich the silver is drained,

and, in fact, never allow it to touch a hard surface,

which might be liable to injure it.

Another important point to remember is, that

both towel and lather must be perfectly clean

and free from grease, and in the case of the

former it must be changed when it becomes too

damp. A wot towel is practically useless.

From time to time the silver will bo improved

by having a more special cleaning. One of the

best things to use for this is fine Spanish whiten-

ing or some good plate powder and liquid

ammonia.^ Put a little whitening (not more than

one dessert-spoonful at a time) into a saucer

and mix into a perfectly smooth paste with the

ammonia. It should be of the consistency of thin

cream. Apply tliis to the silver with a piece of

soft flannel, rubbing each article well, and

especially the parts which are most likely to be

1 Elkington & Co. Ltd., Birmingham, sell a plate powder

which ia thoroughly to be recommended. It is free from

mercury, and does not contain chalk in any form. Chalk is

very injurious to silver and electro-plated articles from its

cutting nature, and unfortunately forma the basis of many

of the plate powders in existence.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

stained. Allow this to dry on the silver, then

rub ofE with a second piece of flannel, using a soft

silver brush whereVer necessary to remove the

whitening. Forks require special attention, as

the powder is apt to lodge between the prongs.

The " Selvyt " fork polisher is useful for this

purpose. Tlien polish well with the

chamois leather. When finished, it

must not be handled more than

necessary.

There are many other plate

powders which can be used in place

of the whitening, but care must be

taken to use one that is thoroughly

reliable, as so many of them are

mixed with mercixry, which is in-

jiirious to the plate. Rouge and

hartshorn powder are both very

good, but unless the former is care-

fully removed it looks bad. Methy-

lated spirits may be used instead

of ammonia, and will be found very

satisfactory, but when once a good

method is adopted it should be

Silver Brush adhered to, as it is easier for the

worker and better for the silver.

Silver forks and knives with ivory handles

should not be allowed to soak in water,

or at least the handles must be kept out of

the water, or the heat will melt the cement

which fixes them together. The best plan

is to hold them in the hand while washing

and to place them in a jug for rinsing with

enough boiling water to reach just up to the

handles.

Egg spoons that have become very much

stained with the suJphur from the egg should be

rubbed with a little fine dry salt and then

washed.

A silver teapot may be washed in the same

way, only if it has a wooden handle or

wooden or ivory rings on the handle, it must

not be allowed to soak in hot water. A teapot

must on no account be left standing with the

remains of tea and tea-leaves in it, but should

be emptied and rinsed out with boihng water as

soon as possible after use. When it begins to

have a discoloured appearance inside or to

smell musty, fill it to the brim with boiling

water, and add a piece of washing-soda. Qose

down the lid and let it remain thxis all night.

Next day pour out the soda-water, wash with

soap and water, using a small brush, and rinse

thoroughly. A teapot must be dried inside

as well as outside, and left with the hd open

until quite free from moisture.

Silver should be exposed as Uttle as possible

to the action of the atmosphere, more especially

in damp foggy weather, when it will very readily

tarnish. That which is in daily use should

be kept either in a baize-hned plate-basket and

covered with a piece of felt or flannel, or in a

baize-lined drawer covered in a similar way.

Articles that are not in constant Tzse shotild

be kept in the lined C£ises, or in bags made of

flannel or chamois leather.

A lump of camphor stored with silver will

help to preserve its brilliancy.

Britannia Metal Goods. - Messrs. Dixon and

Sons, manufacturers, Sheffield, have kindlj-

suppHed the following directions for cleaning : -

Rub the article all over with a piece of woollen

cloth, moistened with sweet oil, and then apply

a Httle pounded rotten-stone, or polishing paste,

with the finger till the polish is produced ; after

which, wash it well with soap and hot water, and

when dry wipe off smartly with soft wash-leather

and a httle fine whiting. This simple method

will effectually preserve the colour.

By attending to the above, Britannia metal

goods are warranted to stand their colour any

duration of time.

THE WASHING OF GLASS, WATER-

BOTTLES, DECANTERS, &c.

Glass requires very special care if we want it

to look nice. Tumblers should be washed first

in warm water, with a very Uttle soap or a few

drops of ammonia, using the fingers or a fine

cloth to rub them with. Then rinse them in

clear cold water and place them upside down on

a tray to drain. Use a very fine towel for drying,

as one tli^t is fluffy would leave small particles

on the glass. Care must be taken, too, that the

towel is dry and free from grease, or it would give

the glass a smeared appearance. A final polish

with a chamois leather is sometimes given ; but

this is objected to by some people, because they

think it gives the glass a taste. Wlien a tumbler

has been used for milk or any other Hquid of

a greasy nature, it should be filled with cold

water as soon as possible to prevent the grease

sinking into the glass and making it troublesome

to wash.

Wine-glasses should be treated in the same

way as tumblers, only the greatest care must bo

taken in the drying, because of the slender stems.

If a Httle vinegar is added occasionally to the

water in which table glass is rinsed, it will give it

an extra brightness.

Moulded or Cut-glass Dishes. - When washing

these use a hght lather of soap and warm water,

and a few drops of ammonia as weU, if the articles

are very dirty. A soft brush, too, will be found

useful for removing any dust or dirt from the

crevices. Always rinse well in clear cold water

to remove all trace of soap, and dry and polish

as before.

Water-bottles and Decanters. - WTien these

become stained or discoloured, they may be

treated in one of the following ways : - Fill the

bottle half -full of warm soapy water, and put in

some pieces of brown paper, some tea-leaves or

small pieces of raw potato ; let it soak for some

time, shaking it occasionally, then pour out.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

rinse and drain. Crushed egg-shells or fine sishes

used along with a little soap are also very good.

If none of these are enough to remove the

discoloration, try vinegar and coarse salt -

one part salt to two parts vinegar, undiluted

with water (this can be used more than once) ;

allow them to remain

some hours in the bottle,

then pour out and rinse

and dry as before. Some-

times a brush is an assis-

tance in the washing of

decanters.

If tlio stoppers become

fixed in wine decanters,

it is a good plan to poiur

a few drops of oil round

the neck and place the

^k/g^ \\\ decanter near the fire, and

■^^B .^-^ ^" ^ short time try to

^^Es ^^Su loosen it gently ; if it

^^^B ^^^tI ^^^^^ sticks, wash it in

^^^^B ^^^^ warm water and repeat

^H^B ^^^^ ^^^ process.

^T^^ ^ Sometimes a few gentle

^ taps ■with another stopper

Bottle-Brushes. "^l^ ^^Ip to loosen the

fixed one. Glycerine,

too, is a good thing to use instead of oil.

Flower Vases should be washed inside with a

small brush, and if stained, treated in the same

way as decanters.

TO WASH CHINA AND OTHER DISHES

Tea Dishes. - If these are in daily use, it wiU

be sufficient to wash them in hot water with a

soft dish-cloth ; rinse in cold or tepid water and

dry with a fine towel. If the water is very hard,

a little borax or soap-powder may be added to it,

but soda must never be used for fine -coloured

china, and especially if there is any gilt on it.

Excessive rubbing, too, must be avoided when

finely painted china is under treatment. The

water must not be used too hot, and the china

should not be put in until the heat has been

tested with the hand. If the water is too hot for

the hand to rest in, it is too hot for the china.

Commence with the cups, then the saucers, and

lastly the plates and any jugs or basins. Par-

ticular attention must bo given to the handles of

cups and jugs to see that thoy are clean.

Care, too, must be taken in the drying of fine

china ; it will require very gentle handling.

Tea stains may be removed from cups and

teapots by rubbing them with a little common

salt, or by rubbing a little Brook's soap on a

flannel, and then applying it to the mark. This

will also remove burnt stains from meat-dishes

or pie-dishes.

China Ornaments which are washed only

occasionally will require a little more rubbing,

and the addition of soap to tho water will be

a necessity. A soft brush will also be found

useful when washing any intricate parts. After

wtishing, rinse well ; drain, dry, and polish with

a channiois leather.

Dinner Dishes. - As these are stronger and

generally more greasy than other cliina, the

addition of a little soda to the

water in which they are washed

will bo advisable, except in tho

case of gilded ware, when borax

or soap-powder must be used

instead.

When using soda in the water,

it is a good plan to use a small

mop instead of a cloth to wash

with ; the hands will not then

require to come into such direct

contact with the water. Plates

and other dishes must always

be washed on both sides, and

must always be rinsed in clean

cold or tepid water before being

put aside to drain. If there is

a rack, the plates may be put

straight out of the rinsing water

into that, and a certain amount

of drying will thus be saved.

They should be taken down

when dry, and rubbed over lightly with a

clean dry cloth to give them a polish.

Dish-Mop.

THE CARE OF KNIVES AND STEEL

FORKS

Soiled knives must never be put into a basin

or tub of hot water and allowed to soak, as this

would melt the cement or glue in the handles,

and cause the blades to come apart.

Stand them blade downwards in a knife-

washer or jug with sufficient hot water to reach

just up to the handles, and add a small piece of

soda. Allow them to soak for some Uttlo time,

then wipe them well, handle and blade, with

a dish-cloth, and dry them carefully with a

towel or coarse cloth kept for the purp<^se. If

an ordinary towel is used, the greatest care

must be taken that the knives do not cut it, as

this accounts for many holes whicli appear far

too soon in kitchen and pantry towels.

With regard to polishing the knives, tliis can be

done either on a board or in a knife -cleaning

machine. These latter can now be bought for

a few shillings, and they aro certainly a great

saving of labour, but care must be taken in

their use. Tho knives must in all cases be put

in clean and free from grease, and tho machine

must be turned gently and not more than is

necessary. If the knife-board is used it is a

good plan to remove the worst stains from the

knives, and especially from the points, before

beginning to rub them on the board. This may

be done either with a piece of raw potato dipped

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

in bath-brick dust or knife-powder and rubbed

on the knife, or with a piece of cork used in the

same way. This will lessen the rubbing con-

siderably and lessen the wear and tear of the

knife. Then sprinkle the knife-board with a

little of the powder, and rub the knife quickly

and lightly backwards and forwards on this.

Any pressure must be brought to bear on the

back of the knife rather than on the sharp edge,

and the point must never be rubbed down. The

knives must finally be weU dusted to free them

from all powder, and must be kept in a dry

place.

Should the ivory or bone handles of Icnives

become stained or discoloured, they may be

improved by rubbing them with a cut lemon and

a little dry salt, or vinegar and salt, then wipe

off with a damp flannel and dry. Fine emery

powder moistened with a Httle water and applied

with a flannel is also a good thing to use for

stains.

When knives are not to be used for some

time, it is a good plan to rub the blades with

sweet oil and then to roll them, one by one, in a

piece of flannel or felt, and in such a way that

they do not touch each other. This is especially

necessary in damp districts, because if once rust

is allowed to attack the steel the appearance of

the knife is spoilt.

Steel Forks must be treated in the same way

as knives, only instead of rubbing them on the

board apply the knife -powder or bath-brick

with a piece of flannel. Particular care must be

taken to dust well between the prongs.

THE CARE OF LAMPS AND OIL-HEATING

STOVES

If lamps are used in a household, the care of

them should be in the hands of one person, and

unless there is a capable maid who has time to

devote herself to the work, it is really better for

the mistress to undertake this duty herself. The

Value of a lamp depends upon its being properly

attended to, and if it is allowed to smoke and

smell, it is not only worse than useless, as far as

light is concerned, but there is nothing more

disagreeable.

To begin with, lamps must be cleaned and

filled by daylight, as there is always a certain

amount of danger in working with oil by artificial

light. Needless to say, this must not be done on

the kitchen table, nor where any fine work is in

progress, as lamp-oil stains are very difficult to

eradicate. If a small table cannot be reserved

for ihe purpose, then the best plan is to use an

old tray or a piece of thick mill-board.

A lamp in daily use should be filled tliree

parts full every morning, as it is dangerous to

use when the oil is very low in the reservoir or

container. The oil should be poured in by

means of a feeder, and not from the can itself,

for in the latter case it would be apt to come

out by jerks and be spilt over, or the lamp would

be made too full. It is very important also to

use oil of a good quality. In fact, it is no

economy to buy cheap oil, as it not only gives

an inferior Ught and burns more quickly, but it

is also more dangerous to use. Good oil should

give a white light, have no smell, and be as clear

as water.

Then with regard to the wick ; it is of the

utmost importance that this fits the biirner

well, and it should be just long enough to reach

the bottom of the reservoir. A wick should

last for three months, after that time it is best

to renew it, when the end to be lighted should be

dipped in the oil first. As a rule the wick should

not require cutting, but should be turned low

and the uneven charred part gently rubbed off

with a piece of card-board and the surface made

smooth with the top of the tubes. If it stiU re-

mains uneven, it may then be trimmed carefully

with a pair of lamp scissors. After this any

bla<3k pieces of wick must be removed from the

burner, and the outside of the lamp rubbed first

with a piece of newspaper and then a soft rag,

until free from oil.

From time to time, both the reservoir and the

burner will require to be thoroughly cleaned.

The reservoir should be emptied of all oil and

washed out with warm suds to which a few drops

of ammonia have been added. Rinse thor-

oughly, and then turn upside down in a warm

place to dry. When the burner becomes

clogged and dirty, it should be taken to pieces

(care being taken to notice how it is fixed

together), and put into an old saucepan with

a lump of soda and enough cold water to cover

it. Bring to the boil, and boil for half-an-hour.

Then rinse in warm water, and use a brush if

necessary to remove any charred wick. When

quite clean place in a warm place, or a cool oven

to dry. The lamp must not be refilled until

both reservoir and burner are quite dry, or the

oil will splutter.

Pains must be taken to keep both the chimney

glass and the globe very clean and bright. The

chimney should never be washed, but may be

cleaned with lamp -brushes, or a pad of chamois

leather or felt fastened to a stick. The Selvyt

lamp -cleaner is a most useful article for tliis

purpose. If the glass becomes marked or very

much soiled, a Httle methylated spirits may be

used to remove the stains. The outer globe

should be dusted every day and occasionally

washed in warm water with a little soap, then

rinsed and dried with a glass-cloth.

If a lamp biu-ns badly or smells, it is generally

due to one of the following causes : -

(1) It has been filled too full, and the oil when

heated expands and runs over the sides.

(2) The receiver and burner have not been

wiped after filling.

(3) The wick does not fit properly, or it has

been badly trimmed.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

(4) Inferior oil has been used.

(5) The lamp -glasses are not clean.

When hghting the lamp, turn up the wick only

slightly and keep it burning low until the

chimney is thorouglily heated ; then turn it up

as far as it N%-ill go without smoking.

When not in use the wick must be kept low,

otherwise the oil oozes up tlu-ough it and over

the sides.

To extinguish a lamp (if there in no patent

extinguisher attached), turn down the wick

until it is level with the tube, and blow quickly

across the top of the cliimney.

The best lamps are fitted with a patent burner

which permits of the lamp being blown out with

safetj% or, if overturned, will extinguish itself

at once. Should an accident, however, happen

and the oil be spilt and catch fire, it must be

remembered that water poured over it would only

spread the flame. The best thing to do is to

throw sand or earth on the burning oil, or to

smother the flame with a thick rug. Door and

window should immediately be shut.

The same remarks apply to the keeping of oil-

stoves. It is almost impossible to prevent their

smelling a little, but with proper care this smell

should be so reduced £is to be almost imper-

ceptible.

TO CLEAN BOOTS

Boots should never be cleaned when damp.

If they have been brought in very muddy, they

should be wiped with a damp flannel or a small

wet brush. Then put on to boot-trees, or if

these are not available, stuff the inside with

some crumpled newspaper, and this will help

to keep the boots in good shape. Never put

boots close to the fire to dry, as too rapid drying

will harden, and perhaps crack the leather. It

is much better if they can be allowed to dry

slowly in a warm atmosphere. If the leather

should become hard, a little vaseline or sweet oil

may be applied. This should be rubbed well in

and then off again with a piece of flannel.

It is very important that the inside of boots

should be kept clean during the process of

cleaning. For this reason it is a good plan to

cover the hand that is placed inside the boot

with a clean duster. Gloves, too, should be

worn to protect the hands. Thanks to the

many good boot polishes which can now be

obtained, the old-fashioned liquid blacking,

which was liable to be spleished or spilt where it

was not wanted, is now a thing of the past, and

boot-cleaning may be quite a clean and tid3'

occupation. So much so that many ladies

who do not keep a lady's-maid prefer to

clean their own shoes, and especially those of a

fine quality. In fact all the necessary requisites

can be kept in a very small tin box, and cause no

inconvenience anywhere.

First remove all dust or mud with a brush -

then with a piece of flannel or an old stocking-

leg, apply a little boot-polish, rubbing it well in

and all over the boot, not forgetting the heels and

the back part. Then polish with a polishing-pad ;

one covered with velvet or selvyt cloth is best.

When boots are new and they are found

difficult to polish, a few drops of paraffin added

to the paste will bo found a help.

Brown Boots should be cleaned in the same

way, using brown boot-polish instead of black, or

the ordinary bees' -wax and turpentine (see p. 66)

does very well. Stains may be removed with

lemon-juice or methylated spirits, or with the

inside of a banana skin.

Patent Leather Boots require rather different

treatment. Wipe them first with a damp sponge

and dry them. Then rub over with a flannel

dipped in a little milk. When the leather

becomes shabby it is better to use one of the

special polishes sold for the purpose at any

bootmakers ; or a small quantity of vasehne

well rubbed in will keep them soft and bright.

The edges of the soles should be blackened.

White Shoes. - Those made of canvas or drill

should be cleaned with pipeclay or whitening

mixed to a creamy consistency with cold water,

then applied evenly with a sponge or piece of

soft rag. Place the shoes in the sun to dry, and

then hghtly brush off any superfluous powder.

White kid shoes should be cleaned with a special

dressing sold for the purpose.

CARE OF BRUSHES

House Brushes should all be soaked in cold

water for some hours, and then well dried before

they are used. This prevents the hairs or

bristles from coming out, and increases the dura-

bihty of the brush.

When house-brooms and such-like become

dirty, they should be washed. Put a little

boiling water in a pail, and add a handful of soda

to it. Then pour in cold or tepid water until the

pail is three parts full. Take the brushes one at

a time, carefully remove from them all fluff,

thread ends, hairs, &c., and work them up and

down in the soda-water. Rinse thoroughly in

cold water and shake well to get rid of as much

moisture as possible. Dry in the open air or

hang up in a warm atmosphere.

Brushes should never be left lying or standing

on their bristles. Small brushes can be hung up,

and the longer brooms should be kept in a rack.

No pieces of wool nor fluffy matter should be left

sticking to the bristles.

It is also very important that brushes be kept

for the special purpose for which they are in-

tended, and not used for all and sundry purposes.

EXTERMINATION OF PESTS

Beetles. - These objectionable insects infest

usually the ground floor and kitchen premises

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

of houses. They disappear in the daytime and

come out at night through the cracks in the

flooring, and they multiply so rapidly that

Brush-Hack.

sometimes they can be counted by the thousand.

They will attack food of all kinds, and the

leather of boots and shoes ; in fact, everything

that comes in their way.

Many different kinds of traps have been in-

vented, and they all serve their purpose for the

time being, but one of the safest and surest

methods of extermination is the use of " Blatol."

Spread this paste upon pieces of thick paper

about three or four inches square. Lay these

at night in the places most frequented by the

beetles. Remove the papers in the morning

and burn them. Lay fresh papers with the paste

every night for a week, or more, then every

second or third night until all the beetles have

disappeared. The " Blatol " so effectively de-

stroys them, and at the same time so com-

pletely dries them up, that their dead bodies do

not emit the slightest smell.

Fleas. - Strict cleanliness, good ventilation and

plenty of light and sunshine are the greatest

enemies of this kind of pest. Fleas flourish in

warmth, dirt and darkness ; these are just the

conditions which favour their development.

If a bed becomes infested, the best thing is to

have the mattress brought out into the sunshine

and thoroughly brushed. The blankets, too,

should have the same treatment. Then the bed-

stead itself should be well washed with carbohc

soap and water, and also the flooring under the

bed. Tlirow the windows of the room well

open and let it be thoroughly aired. Various

powders are also used for the destruction of

fleas, and most of these contain the plant sub-

stance " PjTethrum," which has accordingly

been popularly known as " Fleabane." This

can be bought in powder form from any chemist,

and other ready-made insect powders can also

be obtained. Lumps of camphor laid between

the bedclothes, or carried in a small muslin bag

on the person, is also a preventive, but the chief

destroyer of all is cleanliness.

Moths. - It is very important that all moths on

the wing should be destroyed as soon as they

are seen. They lay their eggs in all kinds of

woollen materials, carpets, blankets and bedding,

upholstered fxirniture, &c.

Any article that is hkely to be attacked should

be brushed frequently, and special attention

should be paid to them in the month of September,

which is about the time when the eggs are laid,

and then again in the month of March, when

the insect is still in a dormant state.

Care, too, must be taken of woollen things that

are laid away for any length of time. They should

be well brushed, and then folded up in a news-

paper or sown into cotton with something

aromatic, such as cloves, caraway seeds, camphor,

naphtha balls, or sprigs of the common bog

myrtle put between the folds of the material as

preventive. The moths seem to disUke the

printer's ink on the newspaper, and they won't

eat through cotton. When a mattress or

piece of upholstered furniture is once really

attacked by moths it will require to be sent

away to be professionally stoved and cleaned.

Bugs. - These are rarely found in clean and

weU-kept houses, although occasionally through

accident they may be introduced. They must

bo attacked at once, as they breed very rapidlj%

Whenever their presence is noticed in a bed-

room, the bedding must have the most careful

attention. The mattress shovild be well brushed,

and especially in the corners and crexices, where

eggs may possibly be laid. Then the bedstead

itself should be taken to pieces, thoroughly

washed with hot water and carbolic or paraffin

soap. Wlien dry, paint it over with turpentine

and allow it to air. Any woodwork too that

seems to be infested should be painted over

with turpentine.

A formaline lamp left burning in the room is

very good for fumigating.

Mice. - The best plan is to starve them out.

All eatables should be enclosed, and nothing

left uncovered that would supply them with food.

A cat or small dog which is a good mouser are

also preventives. A trap, too, is often very

effectual in catching a stray mouse here and

there, and in frightening away others. There

are many different kinds, but perhaps the old-

fashioned make, which catches the animal alive,

are the most humane ; others, which are supposed

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

to kill instantaneously, often succeed in only

half doing it, and so caxising unnecessary

Buffering.

There are different poisons too which can be

bought for the destruction of mice, of wliich

phosphorus paste is perhaps the best ; but care

must be taken in using them, and especially if

there are domestic animals in the house.

Rats. - WTien rats enter a house, it is often

a sign of insanitary drainage, and if that is the

case the wrong must be seen to at once, and

the necessary repairs carried out. Or it may be

that the house is in the close proximity to a

stable, and the rats have made their way into

the house through some holes. A trap is some-

times of good service for catching the rats, and

directions for baiting them are usually given

with each special kind. Poisoning is another

method ; but this must be done with caution, and

especially if there are any domestic animals in

the house. Another danger of poisoning is

that the dead bodies of the rats sometimes

decompose under the flooring, and cause a very

bad smell. A small dog, a terrier, sometimes

keeps them away most effectively.

If the rats become numerous, a rat-catcher

should be employed, who will hunt the rats out

with trained ferrets. When once the vermin

have been got rid of, all holes by which they

have entered should be carefully filled up with

cement or plaster.

Flies. - When flies are numerous, it is a good

plan to wash the windows and window ledges

with a strong solution of carbolic, or if the smell

is an objection, sprinkle with Persian powder at

night, and then sweep up in the morning. Fly -

papers will also catch a number, but they are

rather disgusting things to use. They should if

possible be put in out-of-the-way places, such as

the tops of cupboards. A very simple fly-paper can

be made by spreading treacle or honey on brown

paper, and sprinkling it with Persian powder

or other insect poison. Fly-papers prepared

with some sticky substance to which the flies

adhere and endure a slow torturing death should

be avoided- Another good way of getting rid of

flies when they become numerous is to disinfect

the room \\-ith sulphur.

The blow-fly, which is larger than the common

house-fly, is the kind most to bo dreaded, as it

is a great enemy in the larder. It frequently

lays its larvae in meat, which causes it to de-

compose very quickly. In hot weather all

meat should be examined when it is received,

and if anything is suspected, it should be care-

fully washed \^-ith a solution of Condy's fluid and

water. The proportions to use will be found

printed on the bottle. The meat should then

be well sprinkled with pepper or other spice,

wliich will help to keep the flies away. It is a

good plan to fasten a piece of muslin or fine

gauze over the larder window to prevent the

flies entering.

Ants. - These are very troublesome creatures

to get rid of when once they infest a house, and

sometimes different remedies have to be tried

before one succeeds. One of the best is to find

the opening through which the ants come, drop

in some quicklime, and wash it over with boiling

water. A strong solution of carbolic acid or

spirits of camphor might also be tried, as ants aro

very averse to strong smells. Or, again, some

petroleum or tobacco juice poured over their

nests is sometimes effectual.

SPRING CLEANING

Every year, as soon as the cold days of winter

are over, and the promise of fine weather bids

fair to be reahsed, the thoughts of the busy

housewife turn towards preparations for the

inevitable " Spring Clean." There are still

some people who look upon this yearly cleaning

as a perfectly unnecessary fetish before which

the housewife bows down in deference to a mere

time-honoured tradition. This point of view

is erroneous, and those who share it show but

httle knowledge of the art of housewifery.

However clean a house is kept, and however

regularly the various rooms go through their

daily and weekly cleaning, it is always necessary

to have a special cleaning from cellar to garret

once a year at least. This is not intended to

take the place of the daily or weekly cleaning,

but rather to supplement it, and to give an

opportunity of attending to such matters as can

most conveniently be seen to at this season,

when all necessary renovation, papering and

whitewashing can also be undertaken.

This annual cleaning need not necessarily take

place in the spring - the time may be arranged

according to the convenience of the household ;

but spring is the season which appeals to most

people as being the most natural time for hav-ing

a good " turn out." After a long winter, things

have put on a dark and dingy appearance, and

seem very much out of keeping with the fine

weather and the bright sunsliine. There is a

desire to get rid of all dark curtains and other

hangings that have been in use all tlirougii the

wintry months of the year, and to replace them

with something Light and pretty, and to give

things generally a fresher appearance.

The best time for this cleaning is the beginning

of May, when fires are reqmred less regularly, and

the weather is likely to remain fine. If, however,

the autumn or summer suits the arrangements

of the household better, it is by no means

necessary to adhere to any rigid rule.

A spring cleaning may be hard work while it

lasts - a few days of undesirable toil ; but there

is another side to the picture. What a feeling of

satisfaction and air of content there is when all

is accomplished, and how fresh and bright the

rooms look after they have had their yearly

overhauling, and put on their spring dress.

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

The spring is also the tirae to see to any repairs

and renovations, as, for instance, the re-covering

of any furniture which has grown shabby, the

re-gilding of any picture-frames which require it,

the mending of all locks and door-handles, and

so on. Then a new shelf or cupboard might be

put up here and there, and any Httle additions

made which might add to the comfort of the

home. Deficiencies in stock, too, should be

replenished, broken and cracked dishes discarded

or given away, and numbers and sets of things

made up as completely as possible, so that the

work of the house may start anew with a suffi-

ciency of materials and implements.

Importance of Method. - In former times

the advent of the annual spring cleaning was

looked upon with positive terror by the un-

fortunate householder. To him it represented

a period when he would return home from his

hard daily work in the city to find a tired,

untidy-looking, cross-tempered wife, furniture

heaped pell-mell in all the passages, pails of

water and scrubbing brushes at every turn, and

curl-papers bristling in the hair, and a liberal

display of smuts upon the face of " !Mary Jane."

His evening meal, more often than not, would

have to be taken haphazard in the kitchen,

where pots and pans and other culinary para-

phernalia in the various stages of the cleaning

process would not add to the comfort of his

surroundings. Small blame to the man who

under these circumstances would seek refuge

in the comfort and cheerful society to be found

at his club !

In these days of up-to-date cleaning con-

trivances such a state of affairs should be inex-

cusable, yet in many houses to-day the words

" Spring Cleaning " and " Discomfort " are still

synonymous. The extent to which cleaning

becomes a nuisance depends very much upon

the way in which the work is performed. Some

system should be decided on beforehand, and a

haphazard way of doing things must be avoided.

By the exercise of a Uttle foresight much time

and worry may be saved, and method, organi-

sation and thoroughness will bring the work to

a speedy conclusion. For instance, if painters,

joiners, plumbers, or any other workmen are

likely to be required, they ought to be engaged

in good time ; the services of the sweep too

must be retained, and if extra help is required,

a charwoman must be engaged.

Before the work is started in real earnest, the

housewife should make sure that she has in

stock a good supply of all the necessary cleaning

materials, such as carbolic soap, soft soap, soda,

soap-powder, borax, amimonia, methylated

spirits, bees' -wax, &c., and also a sufficiency of

towels, cloths, dusters and brushes to carry on the

work. Of course the ideal way to do a spring

cleaning is to have the house emptied of all its

occupants, except only those who are taking

part in the work. Then the correct order in

which to do it would be to commence at the top

of the house, and to work downwards, beginning

with the lumber-room, if there is one, then the

bedrooms, next the sitting-rooms, bath-room

and lavatory, finishing with the kitchen, cellars,

and any outhouses. In the case of a flat a

different order may perhaps be taken. If this

ideal plan cannot be followed, then it is best to

do the cleaning by degrees, and not to plunge the

whole house into discomfort by undertaking the

whole performance at once. In fact, some

mistresses find it more convenient to clean half

the house in the spring and the other half in the

autumn, or even to clean only a single room now

and again. In this way it does not seem such

a formidable undertaking for servants.

Each day's work should be carefuUy planned.

Too much must not be undertaken at a time, but

only what can be done without undue effort.

There is never anything to be gained by over-

taxing one's strength. A point should be made

of ha\'ing comfortable meals served all the time,

as without this the end of each day would

simply mean exhaustion.

There will be a great saving of time when the

actual cleaning begins if all cupboards and

drawers can be turned out beforehand. When

they have been emptied of their contents, the

insides should be scrubbed out with carboHe

soap and warm water, and then left some time to

air. Meanwhile the contents should be looked

over, and all rubbish disposed of. The remainder

should then be dusted, brushed or washed,

according to the nature of the various articles,

and put in gc/od order. Then the shelves and

drawers should be neatly lined with clean paper,

and the contents put back in an orderly fashion.

Any winter coats or dresses which are not likely

to be required for some time should be well

brushed, and if possible hung in the open air

for some hoiirs ; then carefully stored with

some preparation which will keep the moth

away. (See p. 314.) Winter curtains should

undergo the same treatment.

Books, and book-cases too, and stands with

music, should all be cleaned and sorted out

beforehand, and any magazines or pamphlets

that are of no further service destroyed, or sent

to some hospital for the use of the patients.

Spring Cleaning a Bedroom. - The first thing

to do before ha\nng a room spring cleaned is to

make it as empty as possible. If it is a bedroom,

the bedding should first be seen to. All the

coverings, including the covers of mattress and

pillows, should be sent either to be cleaned or

washed. Then if there is a garden to wliich

things can be taken easily, everything which

requires shaking and brushing should be taken

outside, such as mattress, pillows, cushions,

rugs, upholstered chairs (unless too hea^'y to be

moved), &c.'; and after they have been cleaned

either left in the open air or in an adjoining

passage until the room is ready to receive them.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

All pictures, ornaments, and small articles of

furniture should be dusted before they are

removed from the room, to avoid having dust

carried to another part of the house ; and that

wliich must bo left because of its size or weight

must be dusted first, and then carefully covered.

If there is a nailed-down carpet, this must be

lifted, and folded up carefully to prevent the

dust flying about, and then taken away to bo

cleaned or beaten. The floor should then be

sprinkled with a Uttle wet saw-dust or bran,

swept with a soft brush, and the dust burnt at

once.

Should the cliimney require sweeping, this

should now be done, the sweep having been

engaged beforehand. It is well also to see that

the work is properly carried out, and that the

brushes have been carried up the whole length

of tlie chimney.

When this is finished, the room is now ready

for any papering and painting that may be re-

quired, and must perforce be left in the painters'

hands until their work is completed. If nothing

of this kind is necessary, the cleaning must be

done in the following order : - First, get rid of all

dust by dusting all walls, curtain poles, blinds,

and woodwork ; secondly, black-lead and polish

the grate ; and thirdly, do all the washing that is

required, such as woodwork, marble, furniture,

including windows, bedsteads, floors, &c. Then

the room ought to be left to air and dry with

door and window wide open.

Meanwhile the articles of furniture, &c., out-

side can have attention, and as far as possible

everything should be cleaned before it is brought

back into the room. When everything is dry,

all necessary polishing should be done. Pictures

can then be re-hung, and everything as far as

possible returned to its proper place. The carpet

should of course be re-laid as soon as it is ready ;

only if tlois hsis been sent to the cleaners, it may

be necessary to wait for two or three days.

Fresh curtains should then be put up, clean

chair-covers, and cushion-covers where they are

needed, and dainty touches given to make every-

thing look pretty.

A Sitting-room. - The order in which a sitting-

room is " spring cleaned " would be very much

the same as that followed for a bedroom (with

the exception of the bed), but there will probably

bo more furniture and odds and ends to attend to.

Hall, Staircase and Bath-room. - It is always

well to leave the staircase and bath-room until

all the other rooms are finished, as there will of

necessity be more tramping up and down the

former while the cleaning is going on, and the

latter has frequently to bo used for the washing

of ornaments, bedroom ware, &c. The walls

of the bath-room should always be of a washable

nature, and then the cleaning is a very easy

matter, as it simply means that every part must

be washedfrom the top downwards, finishing with

thefloor. If the bath itself has become veryehabby

it should bo re-enamelled. Tliis can be done at

home, although as a rule home enamelling is

not very satisfactory, and if the extra expense can

be afforded, it is much bettor to have it done by a

skilled workman. When the washing is finished,

the door and window should be left open to dry

and air tlie room, and then the polishingof brasses,

woodwork and floor should be undertaken.

The hall and staircase is a more difficult

undertaking. The rugs and stair-carpets having

been removed, and all pictures, &c., taken from

the walls and moved out of the way, the first thing

to see to will be the cleaning of the walls. If

they are very high, it is scarcely work that can

be undertaken by maid-servants, especially if

tlie walls require wasliing ; if it is simply a matter

of dusting them down with a long broom, it may

be possible. The stairs, railings, and banisters

must next be well brushed and washed, and also

the floor of the hall and any passages. Wash

also any pieces of furniture that require it, in-

cluding gas globes, flower-pots and ornaments.

Next polish all woodwork, stair-rods, brasses

and furniture, and lay the ceu-pet and rugs last

of all.

The Housemaid's Pantry. - In a well-appointed

house where there are several servants there is

generally a small room set aside for the house-

maid's requirements. It is usually upstairs in

close proximity to the bedrooms. This little

Housemaid's Box.

room should contain all that the housemaid

will require for cleaning purposes, (oeo list

on page 83.)

It should be fitted up with a sink and be

supplied with hot and cold water. There should

also be a shelf at a convenient height for holding

hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, dust-sheets,

&c., and, if room, a rack for hanging brushes and

a small pulley or towel -rail for drying the various

cloths. It will also be convenient to have a

small cupboard in which cleaning materials

could be kept in jars, also paper and sticks for

lighting fires. A small solid table would also

be most useful if space permits, as on this the

housemaid could do any special cleaning of

silver or brass required for the bedrooms and

also the brushing of clothes that come under her

care. A few hooks should be put up along the

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK

edge of the shelf and at the sink, as they will be

found handy for hanging up small articles, such

as taper-holder, bottle brushes, sink brush,

tin jug, &c.

The following is a list of the articles wliich the

housemaid's pantry might contain : -

A housemaid's box, a slop-pail, a pail for

housework, a pair of steps, a kneeling-mat, a

dust-pan, hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, a

large can for carrying water, a tin jug, a soap-

dish.

Brushes. - A carpet switch, a long broom, a

small short-handled broom, a banister brush,

a wall-broom, a carpet-sweeper, a fvuriiture

brush, boot brushes, black-lead brushes, two

scrubbing brushes, a bottle brush, hearth brush,

clothes' brush.

Cleaning Materials, &c. - Wasliing soda.

Brook's soap or Sapolio, yellow soap, polisliing

paste, furniture polish, boot polish, turpentine,

ammonia, bees' -wax, coarse salt, emery paper,

black-lead, paper and sticks, or fire-lighters,

matches, taper in holder.

Towels, &C. - Dusters, glass towels, slop-

cloths, washing cloth, swabs, coarse towels for

drying floors, &c., old soft towels for drying

paint, two chamois leathers, pieces of flannel for

cleaning purposes, dust sheets, hearth cloth,

grate cloths, a pair of gloves.

A REMOVAL

Introductory. - Thanks to modern enterprise

on the part of removal contractors, this does not

require to be the dreaded affair it was in days

gone by. Although a removal is undeniably

somewhat of an undertaking, it can be robbed of

many of its terrors if it 's put into the hands of a

reliable firm, and the preliminaries are arranged

with some thought and care.

Of course, if money is no object, it is quite

possible to step out of the old house in the

morning and spend the day enjoyably in town,

or with friends, and to walk into the new home in

the evening to find there that one's belongings

have been bodily transported and placed in

position, leaving very little to bo done except

the arrangement of personal belongings to one's

own liking, and other small details.

But this expeditioiis and easy way of manag-

ing the business means money, and we are not

all lavishly endowed with this world's riches.

People of modest means must be prepared to

buckle to when such an important affair as a

removal is on hand, and undertake some of the

work and arranging themselves.

Thought, advice and experience can, however,

do mu';!h io lessen discomfort, and prevent chaos,

and the more carefully the order of the removal

is planned the easier the change of house will be.

Making the Contract. - The first point to

decide is how the furniture has to be removed,

and by whom. It is always best to choose ex-

perienced removers, for although the initial ex-

pense may appear more, the ultimate sa\'ing in the

avoidance of breakages and kindred annoyances

is unquestionable. It is better, if possible, to

choose a firm near at hand, who will send a re-

presentative to look at the things and furnish

an estimate free of charge. He will also

tell you what arrangements it is necessary to

make, and what preliminaries must be attended

to. Removals can now be conducted to all

parts of the United Kingdom in vans of the

most improved construction (pantechnicons),

and all risks and responsibihties are undertaken.

The charge will depend on the quantity and

quahty of the furniture, and upon the distance it

has to be moved.

Preliminaries in the Old House. - Before the

actual removal takes place there are certain

preUminaries which must be attended to, both in

the old house and in the new.

One very important point to attend to before

lea\'ing the old house is to turn out all the

rubbish. Clothes that are of no further use,

broken and hoarded crockery, damaged and

soiled knick-knacks, old saucepans and kettles,

empty bottles and jam-pots, all should be dis-

posed of ; in fact everything should be done to

avoid the carriage of dirt and worthless stuff.

Old papers should, however, be kept, as these

will be found useful when packing.

Then all the furnitiu-e should be sorted oufc

and considered with a view to its place in the

new abode, and that which is unsuitable should

be sold or otherwise disposed of. It sometimes

happens that an incoming tenant will only be

too pleased to buy odds and ends of furniture,

and even a carpet or two.

Furniture which requires repairing, cleaning

or re-covering, and pictures requiring new frames

or re-gilding, should be sent away to have the

necessary attention, and not returned until the

new house is ready to receive them. The decora-

tion and colouring of the new house must of

course be borne in mind when choosing any

new upholstery, and shades must be chosen

which will tone well with the new surroundings.

All carpets should be hfted and sent awaj' to

be beaten or cleaned, according to what is

necessary. Ciu-tains, too, which require cleaning

or dyeing, and any heavy extra washing, such as

bed-covers, spare blankets, &c., should be sent

from the old house, and returned to the new, as

in this way some of the removal expenses will

be saved.

Of coiirse this means a certain amount of

dismantling beforehand, but upon the whole

it is better to have the discomfort before the

removal rather than after it has taken place.

Once in the new quarters one is naturally

anxious to get settled as quickly as possible,

and it is annoying to have to wait for this or

that to arrive upon the scene.

Preliminaries in the New House. - The business

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of a removal can be very much simplified if one

can obtain possession of the now house some

time before it is necessary to move into it. The

house can then bo made ready, and entered with

comfort.

First of all, every chimney should be swept.

Tlien whatever whitowasliing, papering or

painting that is necessary should be done.

It is fortunate for a new tenant when the

landlord undertakes to do up the house

throughout, and will give the choice of papers

and colouring.

When the workmen have finished, it will next

be necessary to have all the floors scrubbed with

carbolic soap, soda and a brush, and under no

circumstances should one be satisfied with the

superficial cleaning given by the painters, or even

by the late tenants. Grates and windows can

then be cleaned, and if it is winter time, coal

should be ordered in and fires put on so as to

thoroughly dry and air the rooms. The hghting

and heating arrangements should be carefuUy

tested and necessary alterations made, as it is

most annoj-ing later on to have to disturb carpets

or linoleum for the sake of laying a new gas-

pipe or an electric wire. The water-pipes and

taps should also be seen to, and the cistern

thoroughly cleaned out.

Then the question of floor covering should be

considered. It is an immense help if all linoleum

and any nailed-down carpets can be laid before

the furniture is brought in. This is really

the secret of being quickly settled. When once

the carpets and linoleum are satisfactorily laid,

then the furniture can be brought in with the

happy feeling that it will not require to be moved

again. Besides, it is much easier to fit and lay

down a large carpet in an empty room than it is

when heavy furniture has to be lift/od and moved

from one place to another. Of course, if the

carpets consist merely of small squares or large

rugs, it would be wiser to defer laying them until

later on in the proceedings. Linoleum in any

C€we, and especially that which surrounds a

room, should be put in position previous to the

moving in of the furniture.

Then with regard to curtains and blinds, if

any of these can be put up beforehand, it will

greatly add to the comfort of the first few days,

even although the old house has to be robbed of

them a trifle sooner in consequence.

Packing. - While years ago it weis deemed

necessary to pack all furniture, to tie wisps of

straw round the legs of tables and chairs, and

even sew each article into a sheet of sacking in

order to preserve it from ill-treatment, now one

can confidently leave the tables, chairs, and such-

like to the removal men, who are in most cases

trained specialists to the work. The largo vans,

or pantechnicons, take most things, and especially

the heavier articles of furniture, just as they are.

It is also bettor to leave the packing of glass,

china, and other breakables to the men, who will

bring the necessary crates and straw for the

purpose. They will be much more hkely to

avoid breakages than any amateur packer,

however careful he (or she) may be. It must

be remembered too, that a removal contractor

can only be held responsible for things he has

packed himself, and not for those packed by the

owner.

Of course there are always a few things which

can be packed beforehand, and if all small things

can be stowed away in portable cases, the

actual removal is done in a very short time.

Books, for instance, can be safely packed ; they

should be dusted first, and then put in cases

lined with paper. Any precious volumes with

fine or delicate bindings should be wrapped

separately in paper, in order to prevent them

from being scratched or rubbed. In the case

of large heavy books, it is better to make them

up in bundles, and put a piece of cord round

them. If they have a valuable binding, they can

be wrapped in paper as well. The packages

must not be made too heavy. Music too may bo

tied up in the same way.

Clothing and personal belongings should also

be packed. These will go very well in boxes

and drawers. The latter can quite well be

utilised, as the men simply carry out the different

pieces of the chest, and put them in position

again in the van, and nothing can come to harm.

A towel or large cover should be laid over the

contents and well tucked in. Household Unen

should be packed away in the same manner.

If there is no room for blankets and eider-downs,

they can be made into a bale which can easily

be lifted. Silver and other valuables should be

put in a chest, and securely fastened.

The Removing. - This shoiild always be com-

menced early in the morning, at six o'clock in

the summer, and at eight o'clock in the winter at

the very latest. Althoiigh everything may be

left to the workmen, as a rule, it is better for the

members of the household to take a share in

order to expedite matters. In fact, if the re-

moval is to be got over rapidly, the only way is

for each one to give assistance where h'^ or she

can.

Beds and bedding should always be sent in

the first van, and placed where they will come

to hand easily at the other end. Things should,

as far as possible, leave the old house and arrive

at the new in the sequence in which it is most

convenient to handle them.

As soon as the packing into the van is well

on its way, a responsible person should, if

possible, act as pioneer and start for the new

house, so as to be on the spot when the first van

arrives to direct the carrying in of the furniture.

If this cannot be done, then each piece of furni-

ture should bo marked, or labelled, so as to in-

dicate the room for which it is destined. As

far as possible, each article should be carried

to its own room and nowhere else ; and in fact it

GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK

may, in many cases, be actually put down in its

proper place.

A strip of coarse matting should be laid over

each carpet, to prevent the meia's feet making

marks.

It is a good plan to get every bed that is to

be slept in put up and made early in the evening,

and then, even if it is ten o'clock before the last

vanful of furniture is unloaded, one can shut the

door and feel that at least a place of repose is

secure. Otherwise, one is inclined to go on

working at other things until a late hour, when

there is httle strength left to make a bed far

less put one together.

The question of refreshment on the day of

removal is also an important one. It is often a

saving of time if the men can be provided with

a lunch of bread and cheese, and beer or coffee ;

and if it is intimated to them beforehand that

this will be ready at a certain hour, it will save

their time going off to some pubhc-house in

order to get refreshments.

A good tea at the other end should also be

provided, if at aU possible.

For the members of the family, cold refresh-

ments, supplemented by hot drink, must suffice,

and those who are not strong enough to support

this frugal r6gime should be out of the way, if

possible, on the removal day. Of course it

sometimes happens that kind friends come

forward and invite the party to a comfortable

meal, and this of course is an untold blessing,

not only from the point of view of the mere

food question, but in regard to the respite

afforded from the bustle and hurry of the

day's work. Then at the other end, if a maid

can be sent over in good time to light a fire and

take a picnic basket wii/h her with necessaries

for tea, this little meal will prove a comfortable

welcome to the new home.

Settling Down. - As soon as the bedrooms

have been put fairly straight, it is perhaps best

to give one's first attention to the sitting-rooms

and kitchen, as when once these are in order

and meals can be served with comfort, the worst

of the removal is practically over.

The stair carpet and hall rugs should be put

down last of all, when all the carrying and extra

walking backwards and forwards is at an end.

Then there will no doubt be extra furniture

required, and additions of various kinds to

make, but it is just as well not to hurry the

buying of new things, as it is much more easy

to judge what is needed when everytiiing is in

its place, and one has been in the house for a

few days.

It will of course be weeks before all the odds

and ends are put finally in their places, but

these trifles do not matter, and once the real work

of removal is over and the new house begins to

look ship-shape, it should only bo a pleasure to

arrange the various trifles and knick-knacks to

one's liking.

SHUTTING UP A HOUSE

If a house has to be shut up for three months

or longer, it is better to lift all carpets, and to

take this opportunity of having them sent away

to be cleaned or beaten. Take down aU curtains

and other hangings, shake them well and fold

them up neatly. Remove all chair-covers, table-

covers, antimacassars, &c., brush or shake them,

and fold them up hkewise. Keep the furniture

as much as possible to the centre of the room,

where it will be safe from damp or soot, and

cover everything with dust-sheets or large sheets

of paper. Any valuable pictures should either

be taken down from the walls or covered with

fine gauze or muslin, to preserve them from dust.

Light and fragile articles, such as ornaments and

clocks, should also be covered in tins way.

All soiled Unen should be collected and sent

to the wash if possible.

Close and fasten aU windows, and leave nothing

open where rain can enter.

Grease any metal fenders or fixe-irons with

mutton fat, draw them away from the fixe-place,

and cover them over.

Turn off the gas from the main, and leave all

waste-pipes connected with the water open.

No food must be left behind, wliich would be

hkely to smell or encourage mice and other

vermin. Kitchen premises especially should be

left well swept and as clean as possible.

All valuables, such as silver and jewels, shovild

be packed in a strong box and sent to the bank.

Pull down all blinds, or if there is danger of

their being spoilt with the sun, cover the windows

with brown paper, fastening it up with strong

drawing-pins. Close and bolt the shutters, and

shut and lock all doors.

Notice should also be given to the poUce that

the house is closed, and they will give it special

attention.

WHAT TO DO IF FIRE OCCURS

Fire accidents, large or small, are liable to

occur in every house, and one ought to be pre-

pared to take the necessary precautions to pre-

vent the spreading of the flames.

In the case of a partial fire, speedy action may

be the means of putting it out at once. For

instance, if a curtain catches fire, which fre-

quently happens owing to its too close proxi-

mity to a gas-bracket, it should be pulled down

quickly (provided the person who does so is

clothed in a woollen dress), and the flames

crushed out with a piece of carpet or a rug, or,

if the damage has not gone very far, they might

be beaten out with a rug or wet cloth.

A wet blanket or cloth is valuable for beating

out flames wherever they are, or if the fire is

on the ground water may be pom-ed over it. A

syphon of soda-water is also a good fii'e-extin-

guisher, and in the case of sudden fire, Jire

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

grenades are excellent, and no large household

should be without them. All that is necessary

is to break the glass globe and sprinkle the con-

tents over the burning place.

Burning oil, as in the C£ise of a lamp being

overturned, should be extinguished by tlirowing

sand, earth, or ashes over it. Water would only

help to spread the flames.

If a person's clothing should catch fire the

wearer ought to at once tlirow herself down on

the floor and roll over and over, first wrapping

herself in a rug or any other heav-y woollen

article if anything of the kind is handy. If,

when the accident occurs, another person is

present, the latter should endeavour to ex-

tinguish the flames by covering the victim with

any hea%'y wooUen articles in reach, pressing

them well over her and forcing her to maintain

a recumbent position. Heavy table-clotlis are

amongst the best things to smother the flames.

It is a fatal thing for the burning person to rush

out and call for help : as long as the upright

position is retained the flames will spread, and it

is always the face and upper parts which will be

the most severely attacked.

In all cases of fire the doors and windows

should be kept closed as much as possible, as any

draught only helps to fan the flames ; smoke

follows the current of air, and flames follow the

smoke.

If the fire is of a more serious nature, the alarm

should be given at once and the fire-engines sent

for. Every effort must be made to escape and

to help others to escape by the first means of

egress. If aroused at night to find the house on

fiire, wrap yourself in a blanket or rug and get

out of the room at once. If the room is full of

smoke tie a wot towel or handkerchief or even a

wet stocking over the nose and mouth, and this

will exclude the smoke and still permit of breath-

ing. If the smoke is so dense that you are

unable to stand upright, crawl along on the hands

and knees, as the clearest air is always next the

floor.

Should the ascent and descent of the stairs be

impossible, try to make your way to the window

of a front room and if there are others in the

house try to get them to do Ukewise. Unless

some one is in the burning room the door should

not be opened, and no attempt must be made to

extinguish the fire until life has been saved.

On no account should you throw yourself

from the window, and if in extremity and

no assistance is at hand tear up the sheets

and tie the pieces together to form a rope,

allowing good ends so that the knots will not

slip. Fasten one end to a bedstead or other

heavy piece of furniture near the window. Then

slip the improvised rope out of the window and

let yourself down hand under hand, taking

advantage of the knots to keep yourself from

slipping too quickly.

Those who are helpless to let themselves down

should have the end of the sheet tied round

their waist and be lowered through the window.

A mattress should if possible be thrown out of

the window, as this might be the means of

softening a fall if the sheet should happen to be

too short.

The most important thing in all cases of fire

is not to lose one's presence of mind and not to

waste a moment in taking action.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

This article deals with all that a housewife should know in regard to the management of the

culinary department of her household. Useful hints are given as to the suitable ftirnishing and

efficient cleaning of the kitchen premises, care of the kitchen range, and cooking by gas, electricity,

and on oil-stoves. Each aspect of the commissariat department has also been considered, including

such iniportant questions as the marketing and storing of provisions. The article concludes with

a complete calendar of meat, fish, poultry, game, fruit and vegetables in season, which has been

compiled for the purposes of easy reference.

HOW TO FURNISH A KITCHEN AND

1 SCULLERY

The furnishings and fittings of the kitchen

premises are very important - so much of the

comfort of the household depends upon this de-

partment and the way in which it is managed

that it is well worth while to fit it up comfort-

ably and suitably. When we consider that ser-

vants not only have to live in a kitchen as we

live in our dining-room and drawing-room, but

that their weekly " afternoons " or " evenings

out " constitute the only change they have from

their surroundings, we ought to try to give the

room in which they spend so much of their

time as homeUke an appearance as possible.

It often happens, however, that people who

are most particular about having the other

rooms of their house dainty and comfortable

grudge the bare necessaries when anything in

connection with the kitchen is concerned.

The kitchen itself should be bright, airy,

and roomy. Unfortunately, it is not always

possible to have all these conditions fulfilled,

especially where there are underground premises

and an area, and the kitchen -window looks

out on to a stone wall, but in such cases

the best must be made of a bad job and

a few additional inside comforts must make

up for the want of outside dew. Sometimes

the hght in premises of this kind may be in-

creased by having the oatside wall painted

white or a light cream colour.

The ventilation must be good, and in addition

to the doors and windows it is well to have a

ventilator placed in the wall above the height

of the window to allow the fumes of cooking to

escape.

The sanitary arrangements should also be

carefully attended to, and there must be a good

supply of water.

The kitchen ought to be within easy reach

of the dining-room, and yet so placed that the

odours of cooking do not reach other parts of

the house. The larder and storeroom should

also be close at hand to avoid any vmnecessary

going backwards and forwards from one place

to the other.

Walls and Ceilings. - The ceiling of the kitchen

ought to be smoothly plastered and then white-

washed. This whitewash must be renewed

every year, not only for cleanliness, but also to

give more light. For the waUs glazed tiles are

the ideal covering, as they can so easily be

washed, or a high-tiled dado with distemper or

other suitable finish above. But both these

methods of wall -covering prove somewhat ex-

pensive, and people of moderate means have

to content themselves with sometliing a Httle

cheaper. The walls may be washed all over

with a simple distemper, and as this process

costs very Uttle the distemper may be renewed

whenever it becomes dirty. Pretty Hght

colours, such as buff, pink, pale blue, or pale

green are the most effective. Varnished paper

makes another appropriate covering ; it leists

well, looks bright, and can very easily be cleaned ;

or, again, the Sanitary or so-called Washable

paper might be used - this is less expensive than

varnished paper, but it will not last so well nor

stand so much cleaning. Specially prepared

paints, such as Ripohn, Sanalene, and Muraline

are also to be recommended ; they are to be had

in a variety of shades, and make a kitchen look

very pretty. Tlie woodwork in the kitchen

should either be painted the same colour as

the walls in a darker shade, or with wliite paint

or a light oak stain.

The Floor. - Tlie flooring of a kitchen varies

very much according to locality. In some

parts of the country we find red flags, in others

glazed tiles, in others red or yeUow bricks, con-

crete, or wooden boards, &c. Wlien the floor

consists of flags, tiles, or bricks it does not, "is

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

a rule, require fxirther covering, eis it can be

easily washed, and one or two rugs or mats for

standing on 6ire all that is necessary. But when

there is a wooden floor it is important to cover

it with some material that is easily washed, as

boards soon become soiled and are very difficult

to keep in order. Good linoleum is the best

kitchen floor -covering, and one with a pattern

is to be preferred to a perfectly plain one, as

it does not show meirks so quickly. Inlaid

linoleum is the best, as its pattern is ingrained

in the material, and although the initial outlay

is greater it comes cheaper in the end, as it is

so much more durable than the other makes.

(See also p. 21.)

Fixtures. - The number of immovable fixtures

in a kitchen varies considerably with the style

of the house - they usually comprise a dresser,

shelves, cupboards, a pulley for hanging up

towels, &c., a roller for towel, gas or electric

fittings, bells, sink and kitchen range or stove.

The dresser is really the kitchen sideboard,

and as a rule it is fitted against one of the walls

and belongs to the house. If it has to be made

to order, take careful

measurements of the

wall space you can allow

and have it made to fit.

The upper part is usually

made with grooved

shelves, on which the

plates and dishes of the

dinner-service are kept,

or it may be fitted with

shelves for jars with

hooks along the edge of

the shelf on which to

hang small utensils. The

top part of the dresser

gives room for soup-

tiu-een, vegetable dishes,

sauce-boats, knife-tray,

weights and scales, &c.

- beneath there should be two or three drawers

for holding spoons, knives, &c., and kitchen

towels, while the lower part is fitted up with

cupboards for holding dishes and the larger

cookery utensils. If the kitchen is small, make

the most of it by using the walls. It is a good

plan to have a shelf carried roimd all the

available wall space, and just as high as a

servant can reach. When a number of hooks

Kre required a strip of wood might be fixed

below the shelf, and nails or hooks put into that.

It is a bad practice to drive nails into the

wall itself, as they are sure to come out and

bring some of the plaster with them.

Then there should be a well-constructed sink.

Stone-ware or tiled sinks are the best, as they

are the easiest to clean and keep in good order.

The back of the sink should be made of some

material which will not spoil with the splashing

of the water; if not already fitted with tiles.

Kitchen Dresser.

a sheet of zinc might be fitted up or a sheet of

" Emdeca," wliich is an imitation of tiles and

very practical. (See p. 14.) Above the sink

should be a plate-rack in which plates can be

drained, and the necessity of drying thus avoided.

Underneath might be one or two shelves or a

Plate-Eack.

small cupboard for keeping cleaning requisites

- and at the right-hand side of the sink a

sloping grooved board on which to lay dishes.

Sec, to drain. A flap table might also be

arranged at the side on which to place dishes

when they are dried if table space is scanty.

If there is a separate scullery this would

naturally contain the sink, &c., and here all

the washing up would be done. Tlio walls of

the scullery should be lined with shelves,

and as much as possible made of the available

space. Tlie shelves on wliich saucepans are

placed shoTjld be sparred, as this allows the air

to get inside to dry them. If there is not much

room for sheKdng, a saucepan-stand which can

be placed either in kitchen or scullery is often

found most valuable. A small cupboard or

shelves underneath the sink

wiU be found useful for keep-

ing cleaning materials. Tlie

scullery, like the kitchen,

should be light and well

ventilated, and unless the

floor is tiled or flagged it

should be covered in the

same way.

Cupboard accommodation

is also most valuable in a

kitchen. If this is inade-

quate, it is sometimes pos-

sible to have a cupboard

fitted up on the wall for

holding a small store of

provisions. A recess or a

corner can also be utilised Saucepan-Stand.

for this purpose, and a joiner

will be able to fit up a few shelves with a

simple door at a very small cost.

Every kitchen should be supplied with a

pulley on which to dry kitchen towels (unless

those can be hung elsewhere) and also a roller

with brackets on which to hang a roller-towel.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

The lighting of the kitchen is another im-

portant point, and the light, whether it be gas

or electricity, should be so arranged as to make

it possible to see clearly both at the table and

at the stove.

The Kitcheu Range. - The most important

fixture of all is the kitchen range. It is impos-

sible to do good cooking vfithout a good stove.

The open grate limits one's sphere of work con-

siderably, and there is always the risk of getting

food smoky and saucepans dirty. It is certainly

best for roasting (a roast never tastes so well

as when cooked in front of an open fire), also

for broiling and grilUng, but with these its

merits end. An open range is scarcely to be

seen now in modern houses, the kitchener or close

range has taken its place.

There is an endless variety of kitcheners, all

more or less similar but going under different

names. A tenant has not usually a choice in

this matter, but before taking a house it should

always be seen that a proper stove has been

provided and that it is in good working order.

In choosing or bujdng a stove, do not look

out for the cheapest kind procurable, but buy

one of a thoroughly good make, and have it

well fitted up. The material must be good.

Cheap stoves are usually made of some Hght

metal which wears out very quickly, causing

great waste of fuel and much annoyance as

well, while a weU-constructed one will be made

of malleable iron, wrought iron or steel.

A good stove should be provided with an

adjustable bottom, which can be raised or

lowered according to the size of fire required.

Thus, when the stove is not being used for

cooking purpose? the fire may still be kept in

and the water wai'ineo, but with a very small

consumption of fuel. There should also be a

well-ventilated oven, a good boiler and water-

supply, and a plate-rack on wliich to warm

dishes.

The best type of stove is usually convertible

into an open range, and a cheerful fire can be

arranged in the evening by simply sliding back

the top plate, .i.

It is a good plan to have a light screen made

which can be hooked on to the front of the fire,

as this serves as a great protection when any one

has to stand near the stove to stir a sauce or

do other cooking.

Very often the reason why a kitchen range

does not burn well is that it is not understood.

It is important, therefore, that both mistress

and servant should thoroughly understand the

working of it, and also the method of cleaning

before the stove is condemned as being in-

efSciont. For cleaning, see p. 91.

Furniture. - For the ordinary kitchen there is

very Uttle movable fiu-niture required. Tlie

table is the chief article, and this ought to bo

as large as is convenient. If there is not much

floor space available it is better to have it

made with flaps, wliich can easily be put down

when not in use. It ouglit to bo made of plain

unpainted deal, and should be of a convenient

height to work at and very steady on its legs.

Ivitchen tables are generally made oblong with

one or two drawers at the ends, which are

always an advantage. Sometimes too a narrow

shelf is put underneath on which articles can

be placed when cooking is being done, thus

keeping the table itself more clear.

In larger kitchens a second table wiU always

be found useful - a smaller and hghter one wliich

can be moved about, or even a collapsible one

wluch can be put aside when necessary.

A fender may also be required and a simple

curb is all that is necessary, although one made

of steel will of course bo more ornamental. In

very small kitchens the fender might be dis-

pensed with altogether, and a hght

screen hooked on to the front of the

fire to prevent the cinders faUing out

will take up much loss space. A

strong poker, coal shovel and scuttle

should also be provided. The best

shape of scuttle is that known as a Coal-Hod.

coal-hod ; it takes up little room,

and is not easily knocked over like the scoop

shape. The flue-rake and flue-brush are gener-

ally supphod as part of the stove.

The chairs should be of plain varnished wood,

and the nimiber wiU depend upon how many

maids there are - ^there should be one for each and

one over. Tlian if the Idtchen is used as the

maid's sitting-room, there ought to be one or two

comfortable chairs for resting in the evening.

Strong wicker ones or the hght-coloured Windsor

ai'm-chairs are both suit-

able- or even camp-chairs

■with a strong carpet cover

might be used, as they can

be folded up during the day

and put out of the way.

In any ca;Se it should be

remembered that our maids

require something a little

better than a straight-

backed wooden seat when

their day's work is over.

One or two strong rugs

should also be supplied -

sometliing of a nice bright colovu*. Pieces of

stout carpet neatly bound at the edges will

serve the purpose very well. A rule should

be made that these rugs are rolled up at night

and not put down again until the prmcipal

work in the kitchen is finished the following

day.

A dark serge cloth might also be supplied

to cover one of the tables and give it a less

forbidding appearance.

The arrangement of the window depends

very much upon the style of the house. As a

rule, a short muslin curtain across the Mrindow

Windsor Chair.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

is all that is necessary and all there is room for.

Madras or strong washing muslin is tho best

to use for the purpose, or, if preferred, a light

casement cloth ; but it must be of a material

that will wash well and not lose its colour in the

tub. The curtain should be simply made with

a hem top and bottom. If tho window is wide

it may be better made in two parts with a

division in tlie middle, but, if narrow, it will

look better in one piece. The curtain should be

half as wide again as the width of the window

to allow for fulness. A hght brass rod should

be fitted across the window at a convenient

height and the curtain fixed to that either by

means of small rings or by slipping the rod

through the upper hem of the curtain. If the

kitchen is large and the window wide, short side-

curtains, of some pretty cretonne, linen, or

casement cloth might add very much to the

comfortable appearance of the room. These

are easily washed, and, provided they arc

not made too long, they will not be found an

inconvenience. A simple brass or bamboo rod

should be fixed across the window and the

curteiins attached to that by means of rings sewn

on to the upper hem or heading. By this

means the curtains can easily be slipped off

when they require wasliing.

A good clock must not be forgotten when

furnishing the kitchen - either one to hang on

the wall above the kitchen mantelpiece or a

small aliirm clock, wliich can easily be caxried

about or taken to the maid's bedroom at

night.

Utensils. - The number and kind of utensils

must be determined somewhat by the size and

circumstances of the household.

Unless there is a kitchen-maid it is a mistake

to buy a largo quantity of utensils which require

polishing and keeping bright. In fact, it is

never wise to buy too many to begin with ; the

more you have the more there will be to keep

in order, and when means are limited and

service difficult to procure it is much wiser to

start with what is strictly necessary and add

by degrees to the supply.

In small houses and flats the kitchen utensils

must be reduced to a minimum. Shelf accom-

modation is scarce and there are few if any

cupboards ; large and heavy saucepans would

then be quite out of place and a multifarious

collection of moulds and dishes only in the way.

At the same time it is unreasonable to expect

dainty cooking to be done without implements,

and every facility should be given to those who

undertake the work.

It will generally be found that the better the

cook the fewer utensils she will require, but

still maids have difJerent ways of working, and

it is always wise to give them what they ask

for within reasonable limits.

And, again, when service is short an effort

should be made to give as many labour-saving

appliances as possible, such aa a knife -cleaner,

a mincing machine, a gas stove or gas ring, &c.

Whatever is bought should be good of its

kind. Buy plain and well-made articles and they

will l£ist a lifetime.

Saucepans. - Except for a large estabUshment

where cooking has to be done in big quantities

it is a mistake to invest in a number of heavy

iron saucepans. One or two will be quite

sufficient. The others might be made of steel,

copper, aluminium, enamelled tin, or fire-proof

w£ire.

Both steel and copper saucepans are excellent

and very durable, but they are expensive to buy,

and those made of copper are liable to verdigris

unless well looked after.

Tlie enamelled tin saucepans will be found

most useful, but they should be bought in a

good quality. The hard grey enamel lasts

better than the white, and will stand any

amount of hard wear. The cheap make of

this kind of saucepan should be avoided, as

the lining soon begins to crack and peal off

and then they become dangerous to use.

Aluminium saucepans are also to be recom-

mended, and they are rapidly supplanting all

others made of metal, as they are absolutely

safe from all fear of verdigris and they do not

rust. They are easily cleaned (see p. 93), and

nothing could be hghter to handle.

Then there are the clay terrines and brown

stoneware saucepans, so dear to the heart of

the French housevnfe, and which are coming

more and more into favour in this country

(see p. 148).

When once a trial has been made of the

lighter style of saucepan, there will seldom be

a return to the heavy iron make which are such

a labour to clean, not to speak of the lifting.

The following list of utensils with approxi-

mate prices may prove useful to those who are

starting housekeeping for the first time. It is

suitable for a small house with one or two

servants.

s. d.

1 Galvanised bath 2 2

1 Galvanised pail 10

I Tin enamelled basin 10

1 Fish-kettle 3 3

1 Frying-pan 10

1 Iron stewpan 2 0

1 Iron saucepan 19

2 Enamelled saucepans. Is. 3d., Is. 9d. . 3 0

or 2 Earthenware saucepans .... 2 0

or 2 Aluminium saucepans 3 6

1 Iron kettle 3 6

1 Tin kettle 16

1 Wire sieve 12

1 Cooking board 2 3

1 Pot-rest 3

1 Rolling-pin 6

1 Flour dredger 6

1 Sugar dredger 6

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

8. d.

1 Funnel 3

1 Cork-screw G

1 pair of scissors 10

1 Tin-opener 4

2 Oven tins 14

1 Cake tin 8

1 Tray 2 0

1 Sink tidy frorn 6J

1 Gridiron or hanging grill 1 4|

1 Steamer 6 0

1 Set of skewers 6

1 Grater 7

1 Poker 9

1 Egg whisk 6

1 Soap dish 4

1 Jelly mould 10

1 dozen patty pans 4

1 Palette knife 10

1 Cook's knife 13

2 Table knives and forks 1 10

1 Potato knife 4^

2 Iron spoons 6

2 Wooden spoons 5

2 Dessert spoons 8

2 Tea spoons 4

1 Toasting fork 4^

1 Gravy strainer 10

1 Knife-board 10

1 Pepper and salt box 9

1 Shovel 6

1 Coal-scuttle 1 11

1 Roasting tin and stand 16

1 Long broom 16

1 Yard broom 14

1 Set shoe brushes 2 9

1 Set stove brushes 2 9

1 Sweep's brush 9

2 Scrubbing brushes 16

1 Nail brush 2

2 Egg-brushes 3

1 Sink brush 6

1 Dish mop 4i

3 Jugs 1 O'

2 Pie dishes 16

2 Pudding bowls 12

1 Large mixing bowl 10

2 Breakfast cups and saucers .... 11

0 Plates assorted 16

3 Dishes 2 9

1 Sugar-basin 4

1 Salt-cellar 3

1 Lemon squeezer 4|

Jars and tins will also be required for kitchen

use, but it is seldom necessary to buy these.

The following might be added if means allow -

6. d.

1 Mincing machine 4 8

1 Spring balance 5 0

1 Meat-saw 2 6

1 Knife-sharpener 10

1 Box-cutter 10

8. d.

6 Small moulds 10

1 Frying basket 16

1 Set of steps 5 0

1 Omelet pan 16

2 Sandwich cake tins 10

1 Preserving pan 4 0

2 Fancy moulds 3 0

1 Pestle and mortar 3 0

1 Fish slice 8

1 Vegetable presser 16

1 Flour tub or crock 2 6

The above does not include utensils for

laimdry work. See under special heading.

If the housemaids' utensils are not separate,

the following brushes, &c., will be required iii

addition for household use : -

8. d.

1 Plate brush 9

1 Carpet whisk 2 6

1 Double banister bnosh 2 9

1 Dust pan 10

Note. - If there are several servants they

should be allowed inexpensive crockery and

glass for their own table use apart from the

dishes used for cooking.

The Cleaning of the Kitchen and Kitchen

Utensils. - The kitchen may be cleaned either

all in one day or by degrees. The latter method

is generally found the most convenient, as it is

less obtrusive and does not upset the comfort

of the house so much. The saucepans and tins

may be cleaned one day, cupboards and windows

another, larder, passages, and outside premises

another, flues and range another, with the

scrubbing of the floors and tables, &c., to follow.

This is entirely a matter of arrangement

and must be planned to suit the ways and cir-

cumstances of each individual household.

An effort shoiild be made to have the cleaning

done early in the day or at a time when there is

no special cooking to attend to.

Instructions for the various cleaning opera-

tions will be found below. (See also Duties of

the Cook, p. 49.)

How to Clean a Kitchen Range - Weekly

Cleaning. - A large strong apron, or overall, a

pair of gloves, and a cap which covers the heiir

should be worn when doing this piece of work.

The kitchen, too, should be prepared by remo%-ing

or covering with a dust-sheet or sheets of

paper anything that is likely to be soiled with

dust. Remove any kettles and saucepans from

the top of the range and put the fender, plate-

rack, and fire-irons to one side. Put down a

hearth cloth and have sweep's brush, flue rake

and brush, shovel and black-lead brushes in

readiness. Commence by raking out the fire,

and be particular to pass the rake well to the

back to get all the cinders out of the boiler

flue. Brush out oil cinders and ashes and

save the former for making the fire later on.

THE wo:man's book

To clean the flues commence at the top.

Open the dampers and the httle doors or slides

at the entrance to the flue or flues. Pass the

flue brush up as far as it will go, then to the sides

and tlien downwards, working it well against

the side of the flue. The loose soot will all fall

downwards to the back of the stove and will be

removed later on. In a large stove there may

be two or even three flues and each one must

bo done in the same way. Brush the top of

the dampers and brush the flue doors or slides

and put them back in place.

Now remove all rings and tops from the

top of the stove and brush all the soot oflE

the top of the oven with the sweep's brush,

letting it fall either down the side of the oven

or into the fire-place - the former is the simpler.

Also pass the flue brush down the sides and back

of the oven if there is an opening. Brush the

under -side of all the top pieces and put them

back in place. If there is a boiler or second

oven at the other side of the range the top and

sides of this must be cleaned in the same way.

Every part must be freed from soot, and always

work from the top downwards.

\Vhen the top part is finished remove the httle

door or shde wlaich will be found underneath

the oven, put a good-sized shovel below it, pass

the flue rake in at the hole and draw out all the

soot. Repeat the same at the other side if

necessary. The soot must be taken outside at

once, and if there is a garden it should be kept

for manuring purposes.

Next dust the stove all over, and if the top is

greasy wash it with hot water and soda. Thor-

oughly dust or brush out the oven. If the

shelves £ire greasy wash them out with hot water

and soda, then whiten thfem with a paste of

whitening and water, which will give them a

nice clean appearance.

To Black-lead the Stove. - Apply the black-

lead very lightly with the black-lead brush, com-

mencing with the highest part of the stove and

doing a small piece at a time. Brush ofi with

the hard briish and polish with the polisher

(see p. 65).

If there are tiles at the back of the stove

these must be washed over with a soft cloth,

soap, and water, or, if stained, with Brook's soap

or sapolio.

Clean all steel parts with fine emery paper or

with fine bath-brick dust made into a paste with

paraflin (see p. 72).

Lay the fire, using the cinders along with some

small coal, sticks, and paper.

Sweep the hearth, wash it over with warm

water, and whiten with soft sandstone. Put

back the fender, fire-irons, &c., and put a light

to the fire if required.

Dally Cleaning. - The fire should be well raked

out every day, the top of the stove brushed with

the sweep's brush and polished with the stove

bnishes. Black-leading should not be required

more than once a week, except perhaps on the

special parts which tire much used.

Rub up the steel parts with emery paper, or

wipe them with a soft duster or selvyt cloth,

and clean the hearth.

If properly done, the flues should not require

cleaning more than once a week, but if a largo

fire is kept constantly bui'ning it may be neces-

sary to brush over the top of the oven more

frequently - sometimes, too, in the case of small

stoves the flues require cleaning more than once

a week. This must bo regulated according to

how the stove burns.

Cleaning Saucepans. - Clean saucepans form

one of the first essentials of good cooking. " You

can judge a workman by liis tools " cannot be

better appUed than to a cook, as no woman

who has any pride in her profession would put

up with such a thing as a dirty saucepan. They

ought to be her special pride and care.

Now that saucepans are used almost entirely

on gas-stoves and close ranges whore there is

no smoking from an open fire, there is no excuse

for having tho outside coated with soot or black

grease which comes off on everything that

touches it. The handle and outside of the

saucepan should receive the same attention as

the inside.

As soon as a saucepan is finished with, it

should be filled with warm water and left soaking

until it can be cleaned.

Care must be taken not to pour cold water

into a hot enamelled saucepan or there will be

danger of cracking the hning ; in fact it is

always a risky thing to do if the pan is very hot.

Saucepans should be cleaned as soon as possible

after they are taken from the fire and never

allowed to remain dirty overnight except under

very special circumstances.

The method of cleaning will depend somewhat

upon the Idnd of saucepan, but the rule that they

must be properly clean and fi'ee from taint of

any kind apphos to all.

If the contents of a saucepan have become

burnt boil some hot water and soda in it before

attempting to do the cleaning.

No saucepan must be laid away before it is

perfectly dry unless it is placed wliere the air

can reach the inside, tis on a sparred shelf.

Iron Saucepans. - Wash them well in hot

water and soda, scrubbing inside and out with

a pot brush. Use a little sand, if necessary,

to make them clean. Tlie sand must be used

almost dry or it will not have so much power.

When clean, rinse thoroughly so as to get rid

of any grit and dry with a coarse cloth.

Enamelled Saucepans. - Wash well in hot

water and soda, and then apply a little Brook's

soap or sapolio to take off any marks or dis-

coloration. Salt or fine silver sand may also

be used, or even crushed egg-shells ai'o very

good for whitening the enamel. Rinse thor-

oughly and dry with a cloth.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

Tin and Steel Saucepans. - Clean in the same

way as enamelled saucepans.

Earthenware Saucepans. - Wash first in hot

soapy water, then apply a little fine sand or

sapolio, if necessary, to remove any marks.

Rinse thoroughly and dry with a stout cloth.

Copper Saucepans. - These require very special

care, as, if once neglected, they are apt to har-

bour verdigris, wliich is very poisonous. For this

reason the tinned linings should always be kept

intact, and directly there are signs of wear and

the copper begins to show through the saucepans

should be sent away to be re -tinned.

Clean the inside of copper saucepans with a

mixture of soft soap and Brook's soap or soft

soap and fine silver sand apphed with a piece of

flannel or soft cloth wrung out of warm water.

For the outside use the skin of a lemon dipped

in bath-brick dust, or salt and vinegar applied

with a flannel. Well rinse the saucepan with

hot water and dry quickly and thoroughly.

The outside may be further polished by rubbing

it up with a little dry whitening.

Aluminium Saucepans. - Wash well with hot

soapy water, using a little silver sand if necessary

to remove any discoloration or burnt matter.

Rinse thoroughly first in hot and then in cold

water and then dry with a soft cloth. Soda

must on no account be used with aliiminium

ware, and patent cleaning mixtures should also

be avoided. The outside may be polished

occasionally with metal polish.

The vessels should not be scraped, nor

should the liglit brown enamel which will form

inside be disturbed, as it is not only quite

harmless, but adds considerably to tho life of

the articles.

Wooden Articles. - An effort should be made

to make kitchen tables, boards, and wooden

utensils as white as possible. The following

will be required for cleaning them : a pail or

basin of warm water, a piece of house flannel,

scrubbing brush, sand, soap, and a stout cloth

for drying. Wash the wood over with the

flannel wrung out of warm water. Rub a little

soap on the brush, dip in sand and scrub with

the grain of the wood. Rinse weU in order to

remove all grit and dry quickly with a clean

cloth. Soda should not be used, as it tends to

discolour the wood. Sand helps to whiten it.

^Vlien cleaning a kitchen-table the legs should

not be forgotten. If plain wood they may be

scrubbed in the same way as the top, but if

painted they must only be wiped over with a

damp flannel and di-ied.

Wooden utensils must not be put too near a

fire to dry or they will warp ; they ought to be

placed upright where the air will get round

them.

Sieves. - A sieve should be cleaned as soon as

possible after it has been used. If any substance

is allowed to harden on it the cleaning will be

much more diflficult. Wash thoroughly with a

little hot water and soda and scrub well with a

bnish. If it is a wire sieve hold it up to the

light and see that none of the Httle holes are

blocked up. Be particular also to scrub well

round the sides where the rim joins the surface

part. Rinse well and dry with a strong cloth.

The sieve should then be put in a warm place

to dry. If this is not attended to a wire sieve

will become rusty and a hair one coated with

mildew.

Sieves mxist always be kept in a dry and clean

place.

Tin Lids, Moulds, and Dish Covers. - Hot water

with a little soap powder or plain soap should

be used for wasliing these. They must be well

rinsed and then dried at once.

Saucepan lids should be washed or at least

well wiped with a cloth each time after use.

The rim must have special attention, as any

grease from a stew or such-hke wiU lodge there.

It is a good plan to give all saucepan lids a good

washing once a week.

A brvish may be used when washing fancy

moixlds of any kind. When the insides become

difficult to clean the moulds should be put into

a saucepan with hot water and a little soda, and

boiled for half-an-hour. This will loosen any

matter or burnt pieces which may adhere to

them. They may also be secured with a little

silver sand, or Brook's soap may be used to

remove any discoloration. Thorough rinsing

wiU be necessary.

All tinned goods must be well dried before

being put away, as they are liable to rust.

Polishing. - Tins that are put up for show may

be polished to make them look bright, but this

should never be attempted before making sure

that they are quite free from grease. IMake a

smooth pastљ with a Httle whitening and water

- rub this on the tins with a piece of flannel, and,

when dry, rub off with a duster. A soft brush

may be used to remove the whitening from any

corners. The inside of moulds should never

be polished.

A few drops of ammonia may be added to the

whitening, but as the tinning of some moulds and

lids is very tliin, strong cleansers should as a rule

be avoided.

Zinc. - Sometimes the surround of a sink is

covered with zinc, and tliis may be cleaned in

the following way : Scrub first with hot soapy

water to which a little soda has been added.

Rinse and dry. The zinc may then be polished

with a little whitening mixed to a paste with

turpentine. Apply with a piece of flannel,

and when dry rub off with a duster.

To Clean Floors, Linoleum, &c. - See " Work

of the House," p. 66.

Baking Tins. - Wash well in very hot water

with a little soda in it, using a strong brush and

a little sand if necessary. Rinse well and dry

with a coarse cloth. If a roasting-tin has

become very brown and is hard to clean, let it

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

soak in hot water and soda for an hour or two

to soften the burnt substance.

Kitchen Knives and Forks. - Wipe these with

a cloth wrung out of liot water to remove any

grease, but do not allow them to lie in hot water,

wliich would tend to loosen the handles. Then

rub off any stains with a little Brook's soap or

sapoho applied rather dry on a piece of flannel.

Rinse off and dry with a knife-cloth. It is not

necessary to polish kitchen knives on a knife-

board ; it only wears them vmnecessarily.

Kitchen Cloths. - At the end of the day all

cloths which have been used and are soiled

should be washed in soapy water with a little

soda ; then thoroughly rinsed, wrung out, and

hung up to drj'. At the end of the week they

ought to be laid aside in order to have a more

thorough washing with the rest of the household

linen (see p. 276), and a fresh supply put into

use.

Pudding Cloths. - After a pudding cloth has

been used it should be tlirown into hot water

with a little soda and allowed to soak for half-

an-hour or so. Then wash out and rinse with

care until no trace of the soda water remains.

Dry in the open air if possible. Fold up care-

fully and keep in a clean place. A pudding

cloth must only be used for its own special

purpose. If the above process is not sufficient

to make the cloth clean it ought to be boiled

in a saucepan for half-an-hoirr with hot water

and a small piece of soda and then rinsed in the

same way. The use of soap and soap powder

should bo avoided as far as possible.

Jelly Cloths. - Wash in the same way as

pudding cloths.

Care of the Sink. - This is a very important

matter in the management of the kitchen and

scullery, and a sink left in a dirty and greasy

state, especially the last thing at night, will at

once denote a careless and untidy worker.

Every sink should be provided with a sink

basket or tidy and a sink brush. The former is

Sink Bafiket.

xised to place over the opening to keep back any

tea-leaves, vegetable parings, or other refuse

which might block the pipe. An old colander

will servo the purpose very well.

Do not throw anything but water down a sink,

anf' if the water is greasy flush it well afterwards

with hot soapy water. It is a good plan also to

pour down some very hot soda and water when

the washing up is finished.

If water in which vegetables have been cooked

is not kept for making soup, it should never be

poured down a sink, as it would cause an un-

pleasant smell, but should bo emptied straight

into a drain or outside in the garden.

An effort should be made to keep the pipe and

trap (an elbow -like bend in the pipe just below

Sink Brush.

the sink) in good order by preventing grease and

refuse collecting in them. If tliese become

choked and clogged an unnecessary expense

must be incurred to have them cleared out, not

to speak of the annoyance. Do not be afraid

of plenty of hot water when washing up ; it is

greasy luke-warm water which clogs the pipe

sooner than anything.

WTien the washing up is finished the sink

should be well scrubbed out with some hot

water and soda and a little soap, rinsed with hot

water, and then finally the cold pipe should be

allowed to run. If the sink is discoloured, use

a Uttle sand or Brook's soap. The sink brush

and any dish clothes must also be washed out

and hung up to dry. Also any tub or basin that

has been used for weishing up.

Refuse. - In every household there must

necessarily be a certain amount of rubbish to

dispose of consisting of ashes, sweepings from

floors, broken crockery, old tins, food remains,

&c.

Part of this refuse should be put into a dust-

bin or ash-pit, with either of which every house

should be provided, while the remainder should

be burnt.

The ash-pit is more frequently found in country

districts where the removal of rubbish cannot be

so frequent as in towns. It is usually built of

brick or stone and should be well cemented and

placed at some distance from the house.

The best kind of dust-bin is one made of

galvanised iron and round in shape. The size

wiU depend upon the needs of the hou&ohold,

but it is better to have two, if necessary, of a

medium size than one that is too heavj' to be

lifted. Those dust-bins are very often provided

by the landlord and belong to tlie house.

There should always be a hd to fit the dust-

bin to prevent damp from entering or dust from

flying about. It should be placed at least a

few feet from the house and never near a win-

dow, and it must be removed and thoroughly

emptied by the dustman twice or at least once

a week.

Nothing but dry refuse should be put into a

dust-bin unless it can be emptied very frequently,

as damp favours decomposition and very soon

causes an unpleasant and very unhealthy smell.

Animal and vegetable refuse in this case is better

burnt, and if there is a kitchen range in use it

FOOD AND THE KITCHEX

should not be a difficult matter to dispose of all

vegetable payings, tea-leaves, and such -like by

this means.

There are two ways of burning food remains.

They may either be dried slowly at the back of

the fire or underneath the grate, after which

they will burn quite readilj% or they may be

put into the stove in small quantities when the

fire is very bright and hot enough to consume

them quickly. If refuse is put on to a low fire

in a damp condition it will cause a most un-

pleasant smell.

Needless to say, it is the duty of the mistress

to see that nothing is thrown out or burnt

except that which is absolutely of no value.

In some houses the dust-bin is one of the most

fruitful soiu-ces of waste. (See Law in regard to

Removal of Refuse, p. 382.)

COOKING BT GAS

Gas Stoves. - There is much to be said in favour

of a gas stove, and if properly managed it can

be a great saving of time, labour, and expense.

It can either be used to supplement a kitchen

range where there is a large amount of cooking

to be done, or in small houses it can be made to

take the place of a coal stove altogether.

It is especially useful in flats where ladies

very often have to do all their own work or the

Breakfast Cooker.

greater part of it themselves, and where actual

labour mtist be reduced to a minimum.

If the whole stove is not required and the

oven part would be of Uttle or no use, a small

griller or even a gas ring is often a great com-

fort and saving. It can be placed on the top

Gas Boiling Ring.

of the range or on a small table in the scullery,

and will often save the keeping up of a fire for

the sake of boiling a kettle or doing some light

cooking in the evening. A httle griller would

also be found a great boon in the morning when

an early breakfast has to be prepared, as it will

not only boil a kettle but make toast or grill

fish or bacon at the same time. A very nice

griller and boiler can be bought for 7s. 6d. or

8s. 6d., wlxile a small boiling ring will only

cost two or three shillings plus the india-rubber

tubing (6d. to 9d. per foot) required for attaching

it to a gas bracket.

Gas stoves can be had in different sizes and

various makes. Improvements are constantly

being made, and there is great competition

among the different makers as to who will pro-

duce the most perfect article. Before bujdng

one it is a good plan to go to one of the Gas

Company's offices or exhibitions where all

the different kinds of stoves are displayed, and

where they can often be seen in actual use.

The newest make of gas cookers is well raised

above the floor, which saves a great deal of un-

necessary stooping, and also does away with the

necessity of having a slab on which to place the

stove for the sake of protection. Those with

enamelled Hnings are the most easily kept in

order. The size chosen must depend upon the

amount of cooking to be done and the oven

space required, and also upon the size of the

kitchen. It is a mistake to have one larger

than necessary, as it always means a greater

consumption of gas to heat the oven, &c.

Tlie price of gas stoves runs from about £4

to £12 according to size, while they can also be

hired at a rental of about 2s. 3d. per quarter

and upwards. In fact, in many cases it is

better to hire than to purchase, as the Gas Com-

pany not only supply the stove but keep it

in repair, and will change it when desired for one

of another description.

It is very important to have a gas stove

properly fitted up and to see that there is the

necessary ventilation. The work should be

put into the hands of a capable workman,

because tmless the pipe to which the stove is

connected is of the right size and there is suffi-

cient pressure of gas, the stove will not work

properly. It is sometimes a good plan to have

a separate meter for the gas stove in order to

regulate the consumption of gas.

How to Use a Gas Stove. - It is also very

important to know how to use a gas stove,

otherwise there may be great waste of gas and

many spoilt dishes.

Tlie Gas Companies give special demonstra-

tions all over the country where the working

of the various stoves is fully explained and a

cookery lesson given at the same time. Tliey

are also beginning to send out lady demonstrators

to private houses to show how each part of the

stove should be used in order to secm-e the best

possible results for the smallest consumption of

gas ; but the hints given below may be of use

to those who cannot avail themselves of these

special lessons.

Every gets stove is provided with several

biu-ners on the top and each btirner has a special

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tap in connection witli it. There will also be a

special tap for the oven.

A taper is preferable to matches for lighting

the gas.

Do not turn on more taps than are actually

required at one time, and be careful to tiu-n off

the gas directly you Imve finished using it.

V\lien about to uso the oven open the door

first, turn on the gas, and then apply the light.

Be sure that all the little burners inside are

lighted and on both sides. If they shoiild become

clogged with grease or other matter the little

holes must be cleared with a needle or fine wire.

Never keep the gas burning longer than is neces-

sary- for instance, when once the contents of a

kettle or saucepan have come to the boil the

merest flicker of light will keep them simmering.

The large round burner should not be used

when the smaller one is sufficient. Then, again,

when the griller is being used a saucepan or

kettle of water should always be placed on the

top to utilise the top heat as well as that of

imderneath.

Gas maj' also be economised by using a steamer

or patent cooker (see p. 148) in which several

different articles can bo cooked one above the

other with only one jet of gas underneath. It

is also a waste of gas to use hea\'y saucepans,

as they require an unnecessary consumption of

gas to bring them to the boil. Steel, aluminium,

and enamelled saucepans are all suitable, also

the fireproof china and the glazed earthenware

ones. The saucepans must also be clean at

the foot ; if there is a coating of soot or black

grease it acts ais a non-conductor of heat, and

this again will cause a waste of gas. It is always

better, if possible, to keep a separate set of

saucepans for a gas stove and not to use them

indiscriminately for a gas cooker and a coal

stove.

Tlie flame of gas must not be allowed to blaze

up the sides of a saucepan, but only underneath.

When once the oven has been properly heated

the light should for most purposes be turned

down half way, and in some cases even lower.

Then the cooking should be so arranged that

when the oven is lighted it should be made use of

to the fullest extent, two or three dishes being

cooked in it at the same time. For instance,

if there is a small roast it may be cooked on a

roasting-tin on the bottom shelf, while such

things as a milk pudding, potato or macaroni

pie, baked potatoes, or stewed fruit might be

cooking above. Or, when pastry is being cooked,

cakes or scones might be cooked at the same

time. It would not, however, do to cook pastry

with a roast, as the air of the oven would be too

moist. It is a waste of gas to light the oven to

cook one dish.

To Grill. - A special prill pan is supplied with

every gas stove, and this can be used for many

purposes, such as for cooking a chop, steak,

kidneys, bacon, fish, or in fact anything that

could bo cooked on the ordinary grill. Very

good toast can also be made vmder the grill.

Place the grill pan under the griller, hght the

gas and wait until the griller is red hot before

putting the meat or whatever is being cooked

underneath. Then proceed eis for ordinary

griUing (see p. 107), turning the meat and reduc-

ing the heat as required.

To Make Toast. - The gas should bo turned

down after the griller is once hot. Tlie bread

must be watched very carefully and turned

when necessary. The toast must not be made

too quickly or it will be soft and heavy.

To Use the Oven. - A gas oven generally con-

tains two or three grid shelves and always one

solid shelf. The latter is used to throw down

the heat, and is placed above anything that

requires browning. Nothing should bo placed

on the soUd sheK or it will burn, with the excep-

tion of Uquid things or anything that can be

placed in a tin of water. The top of the oven

is always the coolest part. When dishes in

course of baking are becoming too brown before

being sufficiently cooked, the solid shelf should

be removed altogether.

It used to be thought necessary to place a tin

of water at the foot of the oven, but this is not

the CEise.

When roasting meat the joint should either

be hung on a hook attached to a bar which runs

across the top of the oven or put on a roasting-

tin placed on one of the grid shelves at the

lower part of the oven. If the former method

is adopted the shelves of the oven will require

to be removed and nothing else can be cooked

at the same time. The thickest part of the

joint must always be hung downwards. Heat the

oven well before putting the meat in, and after

the first ten minutes reduce the gas one-half or

even more according to the amount of pressure ;

follow in fact the general rules for roasting

(see p. 165).

When baking cakes the oven should first be

thoroughly heated and then the gas turned

down more or less according to the special kind

of cake, and whether it requires a moderate or

hot oven. Place the cake or cakes on the grid

shelf and below the browning shelf, and gradu-

ally reduce the heat until the cakes are ready.

If the cake is large it may be bettor to keep out

the solid shelf altogether and even to cover it

over with a double piece of kitchen paper to

prevent its taking too much colour. With

large cakes, too, it is a good plan to leave them

in the oven for about half-an-hour after the gas

has been turned off, and to let them dry slowly

in the gradually reducing heat. The same rules

will apply to the baking of pastry.

If a little care is taken and attention given

to details a gas oven is really very easy to

manage, and after a little practice one becomes

quite exi>ert at regulating the heat to a

nicety.

FOOD AN"D THE KITCHEN

How to Clean a Gas Stove - Weekly Cleaning. -

Put down a hearth-cloth and have in i-eadiness

a pail of hot water and soda, one or two strong

cloths or swabs, and black-lead brushes, &c.,

for cleaning purposes. Remove the bars from

the top of the stove and wash these in the pail

of hot water, using a brush if necessary. Wash

the top of the stove, being very careful to make

the burners clean ; sometimes it may be neces-

sary to clean out the httle holes with a piece

of wire or a fine skewer if they have become

clogged. Wash also the tray under the burners,

the oven shelves, the sides of the oven, which

are sometimes fitted with movable linings, and

the tin which stands at the foot. If there are

enamelled linings, as in some of the stoves, a

little salt or Brook's soap may be used for

cleaning purposes and also for the oven tin to

remove any brown marks or other discoloration.

Then black-lead the bars, the top and body of

the stove, and put back the different parts in

their proper places. Polish the brass taps with

metal polish, rub up the steel with fine emery

paper, and the stove is finished.

Daily Cleaning. - If the stove is thoroughly

cleaned once a week it will not require black-

leading the other days ; it will be sufficient to

give it a good brush over with the harder

polishing brush, to wash the tray underneath

the biu-ners, and the oven tin if the oven has

been used.

Neither grease nor any kind of food which

may have been spilled during cooking should

ever be allowed to remain on a gas stove, but

must be washed off at once with a cloth wrung

out of hot water and soda, otherwise an un-

pleasant smell will be caused the next time the

gas is used.

COOKING BY ELECTRICITY

Although we have long been accustomed to

electricity as a Hghting agent and even for

heating purposes, electric cooking stoves have

not yet become common. There are, however,

several different makes to be had, and the pi'ice

of some of them is by no means prohibitive.

One of the simplest and most economical

stoves on the market is the " Tricity " cooker ;

it is so simple, so easily regulated, so perfectly

controlled and so safe that it cannot fail to

appeal to those who try it. There are different

types of this stove - The Single Cooker, The

Duplex Cooker, and the Extension Cooker,

while the ovens are sold separately.

The Single Cooker can be used for grilling,

toasting, boiling, steaming, stewing, heating

irons, airing clothes, or as a radiator to warm a

room. The round plate on the top of the stove

is raised to a dull red or lesser heat controlled

by means of two switches, and any degree of

heat from " very hot " to " low simmering "

can be obtained.

Electric cturent is brought to the stove

through a flexible steel-covered cable which

ensures absolute safety. The cable is ten feet

in length and is attached to a wall -plug. The

"Tricity" Stove.

1. Single Boiler. 2. Oven. 3. Extension Boiler.

4. Grill Pan. 5. Toaster.

cooker can easily be moved when desired within

the range of the length of the cable, and, when

in use, should be placed upon a table or on a

wooden pedestal as shown in engraving. It

should be a convenient height for working at.

Special sets of cooking utensils are sold for

use with this cooker. They are qtiite simple, in

both metal and earthenware and without wires

of any kind, but one important point about

them is that each article is absolutely flat at the

base so as to obtain good contact with the hot-

plate and thus make the cooking more rapid and

economical.

The Duplex Cooker has two hot-plates, and its

uses are the same as those of the Single Cooker.

The Extension Cooker has also one hot-plate,

and is generally used in conjunction with one of

the other cookers or to give top heat to the oven.

It is also useful alone for boiling, stewing, and

similar simple operations.

Ovens too can be bought in two sizes, and are

heated by being placed on the top of a Single

or Duplex Cooker. Tlie larger size is quite

sufficient for the needs of the average household.

The following is the working cost of the

" Tricity Cooker " with electricity at a Id. a unit.

1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for 5 hours

at lowest heat.

1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for IJ hours

at greatest heat.

Full particulars regarding price, use, &c.,

can be obtained by writing to the makers, the

Berry Construction Co., Ltd., Chaxing Cross

House, London.

COOKING ON OIL STOVES

A small oil stove may sometimes be a con-

venience when neither gas nor electricity ia

within reach. In summer, when a big kitchen

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

fire is not required, a stovo of tlus description

will often perform all the cooking opcratioiis

necessary. Being independent of any fittings,

it can be moved about at will, and placed

wherever it is most convenient. Sometimes,

too, in country quarters where the kitchen

range is inadequate for the cooking required, an

oil stovo will bo found of valuable assistance,

and it can e^•en be used in an out-house if the

kitchen is small and inconvenient.

Tliey are to bo had in various sizes, ranging

from a small stove on which only one saucepan

or kettle can be placed, to a large family stove

with oven, boiler and accommodation for several

saucepans as well. It is important to buy a

stove of a thoroughly good make, and of late

years there have been so many improvements

made in their construction that they are more

easily regulated and there is less danger of their

smoking than formerly.

It is always well to see the stove at work

before buying it, and to obtain full instructions

as to its use, as with each special make there are

certain points which require explanation. One

of the greatest objections to oil stoves is their

smell, but tliis can be to a large extent, if not

altogether, avoided by proper management

and care.

To secure the best results, care must be taken

to keep the stove very clean and to use good oil.

The wicks, too, must fit properly and be kept free

from all charring. Tlie oil-receivers should be

well filled before using the stove, and the oil

must not bo allowed to biirn too low.

It is also important to stand the stove out of

a draught, and for this reason, as well as for the

sake of convenience, it is better to raise it above

the ground. It may be placed either on a simple

four-legged stand or if it is a portable stove it is

a good plan to have a box made which will serve

at the same time as packing-case and a stand

upon which to place it when in use. (For

Cleaning and Trimming, see p. 77.)

COAL AND OTHER FUEL

Arrangement of the Coal Cellar. - A good-sized

coal cellar is always an advantage in a house, as

there will then be room to store not only a

quantity but also at least two different kinds of

coal. The contents of the cellar should be so

arranged that each kind can easily be found,

and a supply of slack or coal dust should also be

kept in one corner.

\\Tien a fresh supply of coal is ordered it must

not be thrown in on the top of the old dust,

but this should first be scraped to one side and

used along with the larger pieces. If this is

onco buried there becomes an accumulation of

dust in the cellar which is never used up.

A strong coal shovel should be kept in the

cellar, also a hatchet for breaking the coal when

necessary. A large lump of coal should always

be broken on the gi'ound and not on the top of

other coal, which would in all probability pro-

duce an unnecessary amount of small coal and

dust.

The Buying of Coal. - Coal is always cheaper

if it can bo bouglit in largo quantities - by the

sack or bag is one of the most expensive ways

in which it can be procured. Naturally the

amount ordered must depend upon the accom-

modation there is for storing. The prices are

generally much cheaper in summer than in

winter, and, if convenient, there is a distinct

advantage in laying up a store at this time of

year. Diu-ing the months of June, July, and

August is the most advantageous time to buy.

Sometimes it is possible to make an arrangement

with the coal company that if the purchase is

made in the summer the coal will only be

delivered a ton or half a ton at a time as

required.

It is important to buy the right kind of coal

for the different ranges or fire-places. Range

nuts or cobbles are excellent for kitchen use, and

it would be most extravagant to use finer coal

for this purpose. Coke, which is cheaper than

coal, is often burnt along with the range nuts.

A larger and better kind of coal will lie required

for use in the sitting-rooms. The housekeeper

should see that the coal with which she is

supphed does not contain too much dust. A

careful watch should always be kept on this.

Coal should always be ordered from a good

reliable merchant, and, if possible, from a depot

in one's own neighbourhood so as to avoid any

extra charge for carriage. The price of coal

fluctuates very much according to the supply.

It is also affected by laboiu- disputes involving

strikes, lock-outs, &c., and is, as a rule, cheaper

in localities which are in close proximity to a

coal-field.

Householders who live in flats should ask for

their coal to be delivered in half -sacks, as these

are easier to carry up a number of stairs.

Economy in the Use of Coal. - An extravagant

use of coal is one of the greatest soiu"ces of waste

in a house, but, with careful management, much

can be done to economise in this direction with-

out in any way reducing the amount of comfort

to be gained from the fires.

Fortunately the construction of stoves and

grates has been very much improved of late

years, and what are known as slow combustion

stoves are fitted up in all the modern houses.

Small coal should always be burnt along with

the large. A ton of coal always produces a

certain amount of dust, but if this is not suffi-

cient an extra amount can always bo ordered

by the sack.

When a room is not in actual use or when the

weather is mild and it is yet advisable that the

fire be kept in, a lump of coal should be put on

when the fare is rather low and then a good

shovelful of damp slack placed on the top.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

Tlais is called " backing the fire," and by this

means it can be kept in for several hours, and

when a blaze is wanted a little breaking up with

the poker is all that is necessary. Continual

poking is also a cause of waste ; the less a fire

is touched the better, and if it is desired to keep

the room at an equal temperature the fire should

never be allowed to burn too low, but a few

pieces of coal put on gently from time to time

with a sprinkling of dust.

Sometimes the fire-place in a room is unneces-

sarily large, and this can be remedied by the

use of fire-bricks, which will reduce the space

and at the same time throw out heat. Clay

balls are sometimes used for the same purpose.

Briquettes are also used to economise coal.

They are made of coal dust moistened and formed

into blocks. Used along with a Uttle moistened

slack they will keep a fire in for hoirrs, even all

night, and they are a great convenience in this

way. The only disadvantage to their use is

that they cause a lot of dust when broken up.

Cinders should also be utilised. The larger

cinders in the room -fires should be used when

laying the next fire, while the smaller ones

which have been sifted from the ashes can always

be used in the kitchen-fire or in a boiler-fire .if

one is used.

Wood. - Logs of wood are frequently used as

fuel, and in country districts a supply of logs

can often be had quite cheaply, and they make a

nice cheery fire in the winter. In town, however,

they are not as a rule any cheaper than coal.

Firewood can be bought quite cheaply in

bundles, but even with this extravagance should

be avoided. One bundle should be made to

light two fires ; in fact, with care it can be made

to serve for three. Tuere are also different

kinds of firelighters to be had, and sometimes

these are cheaper than the bundles of wood as

they light the fire more easily, especially if the

coal is of a hard make.

THE LARDER

A hoiise of any considerable size usually con-

tains a larder in which perishable food can be

kept, and the importance of this room cannot be

over-estimated. The ideal arrangement is to

have it in two parts, so that dairy produce may

be kept separate from butcher -meat, &c.

Position. - Whenever possible the larder

should have a northerly or easterly aspect and

comparative absence of bright sunshine. It

is important, too, that it should be conveniently

near the kitchen, although not near enough to

be influenced by the heat of the range. It

should never be placed near a lavatory ; neither

shovild the window overlook that part of the

premises where the gulleys to receive the contents

of the waste-pipes are placed.

Arrangement and Fittings. - The ceiling should

be lime- or white-washed. The walls too, if they

are not tiled, should be lime- or white-washed or

painted with some sanitary paint which can

easily be washed.

The shelves aie best made of stone, marble, or

slate, although wooden ones are sometimes fixed.

In any case it is well to have a slab of slate or

marble on wliich special things, such as butter

and milk, can be placed to keep them cool.

Window-sills shoiold be Uned if possible with

glazed tiles, and the floor should be of stone or

tiles (red flags) or concrete.

Ventilation. - There should be one or more

windows with which to ventilate the larder.

If there are two one should be glazed to let in

Ught and the other should be fitted with wire

gauze or perforated zinc, fine enough to exclude

all flies. If there is only one window it should

be kept open constantly, and a piece of musHn

should be stretched tightly across it to keep

out fhes and dust. There must be a through

ventilation, and sometimes it is advisable to have

one of the panels of the door fitted with perforated

zinc in order to secure the necessary draught.

Or sometimes perforated bricks are let into the

walls, which help considerably to ventilate the

larder.

The door of the larder should fit securely.

Requisites for the Larder. - Strong hooks

securely fixed in the ceiUng or himg from

rods of iron running from

side to side of the larder,

from wliich to hang meat,

game, &c. ; a few smaller

hooks fixed to the shelves

or walls ; a wiie rack,

baskets or wooden boxes for

vegetables; bags of netting

for lemons ; a bread-pan, a

large earthenware pan for

milk with a piece of muslin

as a covering ; wire covers

for cold meat, odd cups,

basins, plates and dishes,

also a few muslin bags for

holding meat, hams, &c.,

and some improvised meat-safes made of muslin

bags stretched out by wooden hoops.

A refrigerator is an advantage in a larder

but by no means a necessity, except in lai'ge

estabUshments or in houses where ices are

largely used (see Ices).

Temperature. - This should not exceed 50№

Fahr. in simimer, nor fall below 38№ Fahr. in

winter.

Cleaning the Larder. - Absolutљ cleanliness must

be maintained in the larder by daily and

weekly cleaning.

Daily Cleaning. - ( 1 ) Wipe over the shelves with

a damp cloth and put food not being used

immediately for cooking on clean plates and

dishes.

(2) Wipe over the floor also with a damp

cloth or with a brush with a damp cloth or swab

Vegetable-Kack.

100

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tied over it (sweeping and dusting must never

be done •while food is in the larder, as it simply

raises the dust to lot it fall afterwards on the

food).

(3) Wipe out the bread-pan.

(4) Burn any scraps not quite fresh of fish,

bones, vegetables, &c.

Weekly Cleaning. - A special day should be

chosen for tliis : -

( 1 ) R-emovo all food from the larder.

(2) Sweep and dust walls and floor ; gather

up dust and burn.

(3) When dust has settled, dust and scrub

shelves, using cfl,rbolic soap, or if the weather is

hot some disinfectant may bo added to the

water, such as carbolic, Jeyes' Fluid, Sanitas, or

Izol.

(4) Scrub floor with soft soap or carbolic soap

and water.

(5) Leave door open to dry floor, &c. When

dry replace the food on clean dishes.

(6) Thoroughly wash out bread-pan and leave

it to dry and air before returning the bread.

(7) In hot weather place bowls of charcoal or

disinfectant and water on the shelves.

Occasionally -

(1) WTiitewash or limewash the ceiling about

every six months.

(2) Scrub wire gauze or perforated zinc of

windows and doors with disinfectant or carbolic

soap and water.

(3) Scald and scrub meat-hooks and wire

meat-covers.

(4) Wash muslin covers when necessary.

(5) Fill up any cracks or mouse-holes with

cement and place traps when necessary.

Treatment of Various Kinds of Food - Meat,

Game, and Poultry. - All uncooked meat should

be hung. If there is a cut side keep this upper-

most to prevent the juice running out. Examine

the meat carefully each day and wipe it with a

cloth to keep it dry. It may also be dusted

over with a little flour. The marrow should be

removed from the bone of such joints as a

sirloin, ribs of beef or loin of mutton, before the

meat is hung up.

If there is any sign of taint cut off the infected

part and burn it, then wash the meat with a

weak solution of Condy's fluid and water, vinegar

and water, or borax and water. If there is a

danger of flies attacking the moat, pepper it

well and hang it up in muslin ; or if there is a

danger of the meat not keeping, it may bo

partially cooked.

Frozen meat should be well thawed before

cooking ; it should be taken from the larder and

kept in a warm kitchen for an hour or two.

Cooked meat should be lifted out of the gravy

with which it has been served and put on a dry

plate covered over with a meat-screen.

If game or poultry has to be kept some time

it should not be plucked, as the feathers are a

protection from fliee. Tie a piece of string

tightly round the nock to exclude the aii and

liang it up. A Uttle charcoal may also be put

inside the vent to help to preserve it. This may

bo made by putting a piece of wood in the oven

and letting it remain until it is quite black. It

should be hung in a current of air and well

sprinkled with pepper if there is any danger of

flies. If there is anj' sign of taint the feathers

should be removed and the bird washed in salt

and water or vinegar and water. Repeat if

necessary and then rinse in fresh water.

The length of time game should be kept

depends partly on the weather and partly on

individual taste, some people not caring to eat

it until it smells distinctly high, while others

prefer to use it comparatively fresh.

To Keep Suet. - If there are any glands or

kernels to be scon these should be removed, also

any parts which show discoloration, as these

very soon become tainted and spoil the rest. If

the suet has to be kept for several days it is a

good plan to bury it in flour. If it is put into

the flour-bin it will not impart any flavour to the

contents.

Ham and Sides of Bacon. - Hang in muslin

bags dusted with pepper or ginger to keep off

the flies. If they are to be kept a long time the

bags should be made of calico, or strong brown

paper may be used for wrapping them in.

Lard. - Keep in a closely covered crock or

basin.

Bones (for stock). - If unable to use at once

bake sharply in the oven for a few minutes.

Stock and Soup. - See p. 118.

Fish. - Fish should always be placed in the

coolest part of the larder - on a marble or slate

slab if possible. It is always better if it can be

used fresh, but when necessary to keep it for

a day or two sprinkle liberally with salt, or in

hot weather it may be wrapped in a piece of

muslin wrung out of vinegar and water. Dried

fish should be hung on a rod or hook.

Farm Produce - Butter. - Keep in an earthen-

ware crock, cover with a piece of muslin wrung

out of salted water and then with a tight-fitting

lid. If there is a largo quantity of butter to bo

stored it should be packed very tightly in the

crock so as to leave no

room for air to get down

the sides. Place the

crock in a cool, dark,

and airy place.

To keep fresh butter

in hot weather a butter-

cooler should be used;

this is made with a

cover into which is

poured a little water.

Failing a butter-cooler

place the butter in a bowl standing in a larger

bowl of cold water. Cover it with a piece of

muslin, allowing the ends of the muslin to dip

into the water. The water, which should be

Butter-Cooler.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

101

changed daily, is soaked up by the musUn and

thus kept constantly wet.

Butter must not be put near any strong-

smelling substance as it quickly absorbs any

flavotir.

Cheese. - A cut piece of cheese should be

wrapped in grease-proof paper or in damp

muslin and kept in a cheese dish or jar or tin in

which there is a little ventilation. A large piece

of cheese ought to be turned frequently and the

rind rubbed occasionally with a cloth to prevent

moisture collecting. A ripe cheese must be

watched carefully to see that it is not attacked

by the cheese fly.

Milk and Cream. - Strict cleanHness is the

first necessity. The jug or basin in which the

milk is kept must be thoroughly scalded and

rinsed with cold water. Milk should always be

kept covered, and, Uke butter, it should not be

put neao" anything with a strong smell, as it

readily absorbs" odovu-s. It is a bad plan to mix

milk - a fresh lot should never be added to some

that has been in the house several hours. In

hot weather the milk should be scalded if it has

to be kept for several hours. Stand the jug

containing it in a large saucepan of water and

heat to almost boiHng -point, or tliis may be done

in a double saucepan. A pinch of carbonate of

soda or powdered borax may be added to the

inilk to preserve it, but this spoils the flavovu*.

The same care must be taken with cream. If

it is scalded as above it will keep sweet for

several hours. A lunnp of sugar will also help

to preserve it.

Eggs should be kept in a basket or on an

egg-stand where they do not touch each other.

If there is room for storing, the thrifty house-

keeper will buy a quantity of eggs in the spring

and store them for winter use. They can be

preserved in one of the following methods : -

(1) Place them in an air-tight box between

layers of coarse salt. Tlie small end of the egg

should be placed downwards and they must

never touch each other. Put a layer of salt

two inches deep on the top, cover with a thick

piece of caUco or strong paper, and then a tight-

fitting lid. This must be kept in a cool place.

(2) Grease the eggs (they must be very fresh)

over with lard, oil, or any pure fat and place them

on a tray with a layer of bran above and below.

(3) Pack in lime, in the same manner as for

salt, only this renders them so brittle that they

are unfit for boiling.

(4) Lay them in a bath of water glass. Water

glass can be bought for about 4d. per pound, and

full directions for its use are printed on each tin.

Bread. - Bread should be kept closely covered

in an earthenware bread-pan with a hd, or in an

enamelled iron bin. It must never be put away

while hot, but should be allowed to cool where

the air can circulate freely round it.

The pan or crock must bo wiped out regixlarly

in order to free it from all musty crumbs, and

once a week or once a fortnight thoroughly

scalded, and then allowed to become cool and

dry before the bread is returned to it.

Bread can also be kept well if it is placed in a

clean cloth and placed on a shelf.

What to do when there is no Larder. - In many

small houses and flats there is no proper larder,

and one cupboard has to serve the purpose of

larder and storeroom and sometimes as a place

for keeping dishes as well.

When this is the case the quantities ordered

must be as small as possible and cleanUness and

order are all the more necessary. If the shelves

are made of wood it is a good plan to have them

covered with white oil -cloth, as this can so easily

be wiped over or washed. In addition to tliis

cupboard, a meat-safe should be provided and

placed either outside or in a cool place. Need-

less to say, it should not be placed anywhere near

a lavatory. A small meat-safe can occasionally

be fixed to the outside ledge of the kitchen

window. If it is out of doors the top must be

protected from rain by a covering of wood or

galvanised iron, and it must be scrubbed out

every week and just as carefully as an inside

cupboard.

FaiUng a meat-safe, small cane and muslin

cages should be bought in which meat can be

hung up in any cool and well-ventilated place.

They are very inexpensive to buy, or they can

even be simply constructed at home by making

a bag of musUn di-awn in at top and bottom.

Place a plate at the foot and keep out the sides

with hoopf- of cane lightly tackod in position.

Economy in the Larder. - No housekeeper

should dispense with a daily visit to the larder.

A survey of this department will help her in

ordering the meals of the day besides acting as

a stimulus to the cook to avoid waste and keep

things in good order.

The chief points to notice when inspecting the

larder are : -

(1) What food there is left from the previous

day's meals, and how best it can be made to re-

appear at table.

(2) What scraps there are for the stock-pot

and odds and ends of fat that can be rendered

down.

(3) The condition of any meat or game that is

being hung.

(4) The condition of the bread-pan - if there

are any scraps that will require to be used up.

(5) What new provisions will be required.

(6) That the larder itself is as tidy and fresh

as it ought to be, and that plates on which food

rests, as well as any basins and jugs, are all clean.

STORING FRUIT AND VEGETABLES

Vegetables. - When vegetables are only bought

in small quantities as required thej'^ should be

kept in baskets or a vegetable rack and stored

in a cool place - ^the floor of the larder or cellar

102

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

is the best. Potatoes alone, carrots and turnips

together, and green and other special vegetables

by themselves. Onions, ehalots, chives, and

garlic are best hung up by strings or in a net bag

and kept away from other food.

Parsley and niint sliould be kept with the

Btalks in water, and the water changed every

day.

Tomatoes should be kept on a plate or spread

out on a shelf without touching each other.

To Store Vegetables. - Although vegetables

are at their best when freshly gathered, they can

wlien necessary be kept for a limited period.

\\lien potatoes axe bought in large quantities

and stored through the winter, they should be

kept in a dry dark cellar and covered with straw

to keep off the frost. If kept in a bright or

damp place they will spoil and become milled

and withered. Rub off all sprouts and shoots

as they appear. Examine frequently and re-

move any that show signs of decay. In the

country potatoes are sometimes stored in a deep

liole in the ground lined with straw and banked

up with sand.

Artichokes caii be treated in the same way.

Carrots, Beetroots, and Parsnips may be pre-

served in dry sand or earth in a dark cellar.

Turnips should be allowed to lie on the floor

of a dark cellar.

Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers will keep for

some time if they are hung up by the stalk in a

cool situation.

Small Cabbages too, if they are sound and

firm and cut before the frost touches them, can

be preserved for a few weeks if they are spread

on a stone floor in the dark.

Herbs. - If these can be bought fresh in the

summer time it is best to dry them quickly

beside the kitchen fire. Then strip off the

leaves and rub them through a fine sieve. The

different kinds should be kept separate and

stored in air-tight boxes or bottles.

Fruit. - If only bought in small quantities,

such fruit as apples, pears, plums, apricots, and

oranges should be wiped

and spread out on a tray,

on the shelves of the store-

room or larder, or on a

special fruit -stand.

Bananas and grapes

should be hung. Softer

fruits, such as currants

and berries, should only

bo bought as required and

then used at once.

Lemons should bo wiped

dry and hung up in nets,

or if laid on a shelf they

should be turned every

day.

All fruit should be kept in a cool place and

out of the sun, unless it is a kind which requires

further ripening.

Frnlt-Stand.

When Apples have to be stored in large

quantities for winter use, they should be dry,

sound, and not too ripe. They should be spread

out on slielvos in a fruit-room or an attic that

does not admit too much sunshine. They should

not be allowed to touch each other and any

decaying ones should be instantly removed.

Rough-skinned apples, such aa russets, keep

best.

Pears, if not ripe, may bo kept in the same

way or hung up by the stalks.

THE STORE-ROOM OR STORE-CLOSET

If a small room can be set aside for the storage

of groceries and other household commodities

it will be a great convenience to the careful

housewife, and if she has some knowledge as to

the stocking and general management of that

store-room she will feel a sense of pride in keeping

it well plenished and in good order.

A store-room should be dry and airy, tidy and

weU arranged. A room with a northern or

eastern aspect is the best. It should be as near

the kitchen as possible in order to avoid un-

necessary carrying, end not in the vicinity of

a sink or closet.

If a small room is not available a good-sized

cupboard can serve the purpose, and goods, &c.,

must be bought according to the acoommodation

for keeping them and individual requirements.

Fittings and Arrangements. - The store-room

should have its walls and ceiling white-washed

or coated with sanitary paint, which can be

easily washed. The walls and floor should be

examined for any cracks, and if there are such

they shoiild be carefully filled up with cement

to prevent the entrance of mice, beetles, and other

vermin. Tlie floor should be well boarded and

either left uncovered or covered with linoleum.

If there is an outside window it should be

covered with wire geuze or fine perforated zinc

through which no flies can enter.

The walls should befitted with plenty of shelves,

and if these can be graduated in size it will be

found an advantage ; broader shelves below to

hold the bulkier and heavier articles, and narrower

ones above for those that are lighter. It is a bad

plan to have the shelves so wide that the jars

and other receptacles have to bo placed one be-

hind the other ; it will be a case of " out of siglit

out of mind," and it will bo impossible to see

at a glance what the store-room contains. The

shelves should be covered with white or brown

oilcloth, which is easily wiped down or washed.

This can be fastened in position with drawing-

pins if there is difficulty in making it lie flat.

If space permits it will be found a great con-

venience to have a small inner cupboard with

one or two drawers, also a strong steady table

with a pair of scales or balance.

A few hooks along the edges of the shelves

will also bo useful for hanging such articles aa

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

103

can be suspended, and they sometimes lielp to

eke out an otherwise Hmited space.

Requisites. - Besides the stores and pro-

visions it will be found useful to liave the

following articles in the store-room : -

(1) A dust-pan and brush and one or two

dusters for keeping the shelves, floor, &c., in

order.

(2) A supply of paper, brown and white,

string, pen and ink, and some labels or adhesive

papers. A drawer in the table or cupboard

might be utilised for these or a special corner

of the shelves.

(3) Jars, canisters, boxes, and bottles for

keeping the various stores. Any odd jars and

boxes, &c., can be used for the

piirpose as long as they are sound

and have tight-fitting lids or

saucers to cover the tops very

closely. Empty biscuit-boxes, jam

or pickle jars, can be utilised for

the purpose. For those who can

afford something daintier there are

many kinds of store jars to be

bought both in earthenware and

enamelled tin with the names of

the various groceries, &c., printed on the outside,

from about Is. each according to size. Glass jars

with lids are also nice for groceries that are bought

in small quantities, such as almonds, preserved

fruits, cocoanut, chocolate, &c., and neat tin

boxes or a small chest for keeping the various

spices. Receptacles that have no printed name

must be neatly labelled to show the natiure of the

contents.

(4) A slate and pencil for noting down what

stores require replenishing should be hung in a

convenient place in the store-room, or a store

Store Jar.

rrf

> ,

g8"8

; ""

" ^ '

store Indicator.

indicator may be piirchased for about 3s. This

useful little remembrancer gives a printed list

of the different stores on a neat frame, and a

system of pegs and holes indicates what is

required.

(5) A few implements will also be required -

a pair of scissors, a cork-screw, a knife, a tin-

opener, two or three spoons of different sizes,

a few scoops, and a cheese and soap-cutter.

(0) It will also be found useful to keep a small

tool-box in the store-room containing a hammer.

s&w, gimlet, screw-driver, a pair of pincers,

chisel, and a tiseful supply of nails, hooks, and

tacks.

Grouping the Stores. - ^In arranging the store-

room the various articles must be grouped

methodically according to their kind and in

such a way that they can be easily found. Keep

a special shelf or corner for cereals, another for

the different kinds of sugar, another for jams

and preserves, another for bottled goods, and

so on.

If there is a small cupboard this might be

reserved for a medicine cupboard, or for special

articles or poisons, which are better kept under

lock and key. There should also be a special

corner for wine if there is no separate wine

cellar, and a special corner for cleaning requisites.

Then if there are drawers these might be used

for kitchen paper, dishpapers, cutlet frills,&c.,and

another one for an extra supply of dusters, dish

cloths, floor cloths, &c., while the nails and hooks

can be utilised for such articles as can be hung.

Articles such as tea and coffee, cheese and soap,

must not be placed near each other, as the smeU

and flavour may be imparted from one to the

other. Nothing must be kept in paper parcels,

and every jar, canister, box, &c., must be

clearly labelled on the outside. The heavier

jars should be placed on the bottom shelf or

on the floor, if dry, and those in constant use

readiest to hand.

Cleaning the Store-room. - The store-room must

be kept very tidy. The jars ought to be taken

down periodically and thoroughly dusted, and

the shelves dusted and washed over before they

are retiirned. When necessary, the jars should

be washed out and well dried before being

refilled. The table and floor shoTild also be

scrubbed when they require it, and everything

kept in good order. If the stores are dropped

about in an untidy manner it will only encourage

mice and insects. It is important also that the

store-room should be well aired.

Giving out Stores. - Stores should be given out

regularly, either daily or weekly and at a fixed

date. They should be checked when they come

in, and the consumption should be strictly

regulated, or the method of bujdng in quantities

will be found an extravagant one.

There are two ways of checking consumption :

one method is to keep all stores and pro\asions

under lock and key and to give them out by

weight and measure. Tliis method is exact, but

it does not always answer ; it is more suitable

for a public institution or for a large establish-

ment than for a small private house. It is often

a cause of worry and annoyance, and is apt to

cause friction between mistress and servants.

As a rule, good servants will work most willingly

in houses where they are trusted, and if we

begin by calculating measure for measure with

them they will doubtless do the same with us.

Servants who are inclined to be wasteful will

104

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

waste by ounces just as easily as they can by

pounds.

Still, it is not wise to have large quantities

out at one time for general use. Smaller jars

can be filled with the different stores for daily

consumption wthout actually doling them out

by the ounce and half ounce and so much

for each person. Some things, such as butter,

tea, and sugar, it is very usual to measure out

for kitchen use, and where there are several

servants this is a wise plan and is thought

nothing of (see p. 45).

Another way of checking consumption is by

means of the weekly bills. Each housekeeper

must draw up her o\vn estimate as to how much

should be spent upon certain things and then

make an effort to keep within its limit (see

p. 365).

GENERAL NOTES ON STORING

Tea and Coffee should be kept in air-tight

canisters or in a lead-lined chest.

Dry Groceries. - Keep in covered earthenware

Jars.

Starch. - Keep in a cool place and well covered,

as air turns it powdery.

Soda and Salt. - Keep in a wooden or tin box

with a lid. Damp is bad for them; it forms

them into blocks.

Spices. - Keep in air-tight tins or in a spice

chest.

Flour. - Keep in a wooden or enamelled bin.

Sometimes the bin is divided, and one portion

can be used for household flour

and the other for Vienna flour.

If the floor is of stone or damp the

bin must be raised.

Jams, Pickles, Bottled Fruits, &c.

must be kept in a cool place as

they are liable to ferment. If the

store-room is hot they should bo

placed noar the floor.

Soap. - Cut in blocks with an

old knife or soap - cutter and

stack up with a space between each block.

Candles. - If store-room is warm rub with

methylated spirits to harden them.

Biscuits and Cakes. - Keep in tin boxes with

tight-fitting lid.

CARE OF WINES

Wines require a great deal of attention, and

their preservation in a state fit to drink largely

depends upon the treatment they receive. Any

carelessness or neglect is sure to bo followed by

deterioration in quality, and the loss of those

properties which can only arrive at perfection if

the maturing process is allowed to proceed under

conditions which are favourable to their growth

and development.

The Wine Cellar. - The collar should bo under-

Enamelled Bin.

ground if possible, as it will then Ije less affected

by variations in temperature. It should be

cool, dry, and well ventilated without any

strong draughts. Tho walls are generally made

of brick or stone and white-washed, and the

shelves or bins of wood or iron.

Ceire should be taken to see that the di'ainage

is good and that no foul air enters. The windows

or holes to admit light should be small, as any

sunshine would rai.se the temperature which

ought to be kept uniform. The thermometer

should stand about 65№ Fahr. and there should

be no variations. If at any time it is necessary

to raise the temperature artificially, gas must

on no account be employed, as the vitiation of

the air which results is injiu-ious to the wine -

an oU lamp or small oil stove is better.

Apart from any artificial heating there will

always be a slight difference in the degree of

warmth between the top bins and the lower

ones, owing to the tendency of warm air to rise,

and in consequence of this care must be taken

to arrange the different varieties of wines in

separate parts of the cellar according to their

indi\'idual requirements as regards heat.

Binning Wines. - Bins are the open divisions

in the cellar in which the wine is placed. They

may either be fixtures in

the cellar or may be

bought separately and

placed on the floor ; if

the latter is done, care

must be taken that the

bin stands steadily or the

wine will be disturbed.

In arranging the wines

it must be remembered

that all wines cannot be

treated alike.

As a rule, it is best to

bin the light varieties such

as Hock, Moselle, and all

sparkling varieties at the bottom. Clarets and

Burgundies in tho middle, and Sherry and Port

and other fortified wines at the top.

The bottles must be placed in the bins Iiori-

zontallj', as the wine would soon deteriorate

were they allowed to stand upright. When

binning port tho bottles should be so placed

that tho chalk or white paint-mark is uppermost

on account of the sediment.

Tlie corks of wine bottles should be examined

for signs of decay, because if once they become

faulty and the air can penetrate the wine will

be spoilt.

Wine should bo consumed as soon as possible

after the bottle has been opened. The lighter

wines are hardly fit to di-ink if they are kept for

even two or three days after being decanted,

although the fortified wines, such as sherry

and port, will last rather longer. (See also Service

of Wines, p. 248.)

Ale, Stout, and Cider. - ^These beverages require

Wine Biu.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN"

105

a temperatui-e of about 50№ Fahr. Tlie bottles

should be allowed to stand upright a few days

before use. Stout should not be kept in the

house too long, as it is liable to generate too

much gas. If beer is kept in a cask, a stand

should be provided in order to raise it about

a foot from the ground. A cask should be so

placed that there is a space all round it to

enable of its being examined from time to

time. It must also be perfectly steady and

wedges of wood used, if necessary, to keep it from

shaking.

Spirits (Whisky, brandy, rum, and gin). -

Spirits are best stood upright, and when in

bottles require very little attention.

Australian Wines. - These wines are easily

handled, being sold in flagons with screw stoppers.

Care should be taken to keep the stoppers

screwed up very tightly, because if the air is

allowed to get to the wine it is liable to turn

it acid.

When no Wine Cellar is Available. - ^If there

is no wine cellar in wliicli. to keep a supply,

wine must be bought in smaller quantities and

just enough for immediate reqtiirements. A

corner of the store cupboard or some down-

stairs cellar can sometimes be utilised for

Wine Cabinet.

keeping a moderate supply of bottles, and for

convenience sake a small bin might be fitted up.

Or a wine cabinet is sometimes found useful,

especially in flats and small houses. They are

fitted with a strong lock and key, and one

to hold four dozen bottles can be bought for

about 30s.

MARKETING

General Hints. - It requires a considerable

amount of forethought and common-sense to

do really good marketing, to buy just what is

necessary for the needs of the household, to

secure cho best value for one's money, and to

be economical in the true sense of the word

\sithout being parsimonious.

Whether we have much money or little at

our disposal it always requires some care to lay

it out to the best advantage, and the less there

is the more necessity there will be to make the

most of it.

Money is often wasted and time lost by the

hoiisekeeper not knowing how to choose and

order food. It requires some experience to do

it well, but with common-sense and good will

the art of marketing is easily acquired.

Each purchase should be thoughtfully con-

sidered, and when means are scarce money must

not be frittered away on any trifle which may

strike the fancy and has no real value.

It is always best to deal with good reliable

shops and not to be continually hunting after the

cheapest market. Try, if possible, to patronise

the shops in yoiu- immediate neighbourhood,

and preferably those in which there is a big

turnover, where articles are being constantly

sold out and renewed. Avoid shops where the

goods are not kept in an orderly and cleanly

condition, or where they are exposed to the

dust and dirt of the street, or to be touched and

handled by every passer-by.

However small the income may be, it will

never be found economical to buy goods of

inferior quahty in order to save a few pence.

Aim rather at secvu-ing good material of its kind

and at avoiding luxuries, except as an occasional

treat when they can be afforded.

In order to ascertain whether or not you are

being charged a fair price for your provisions,

try to obtain a price list from two or three good

shops and then compare them.

It is the duty of every mistress to see that her

merchandise is good ; there is no virtue in

allowing short weight and inferior quality nor

in permitting oneself to be imposed upon in any

way. One only gets thљ best attention by ex-

pecting and demanding it.

Previous to making out her order the mistress

should go tlirough the larder and store-room and

make a note of what is requii-ed, always bearing

in mind the bill of fare for the day. Sometimes

it is possible to order for two days at a time or

to order always one day ahead to ensiu-e having

the provisions in the house in good time in the

morning. This is often necessary in houses

where a very early dinner has to be provided for,

and it enables tlie cook, or whoever undertakes

the cooking, time to start her preparations

directly the breakfast tilings are cleared away.

Whenever possible, the mistress of the house

or housekeeper should do her own shopping,

not necessarily every day, but certainly occasion-

ally. In this way the tradesmen get a better

idea of her likes and dislikes and can generally

serve her better. Variety will be suggested

by what she sees in the shops, and a knowledge

of what things are in season is more quickly

obtained. With meat especially she will get a

bettor joint or more suitable piece of meat for

her purpose if she sees it cut and weighed tlian

if she simply L^ft it to the butcher's discretion.

At the fishmonger's, too, a personal visit is a wise

106

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

plan, as tlio price of fish varies so much, and even

from day to day according to tlie weather and

other circumstances. The more plentiful kind

will always be the cheapest for the time being,

and it will generally bo found that it is the best

as well.

Shopping should be done as etu-Iy as possible,

as there is generally a better selection in the

forenoon and provisions are fresher.

If this personal shopping cannot be managed

by the mistress of the household and there is no

responsible person to whom the business may be

deputed, a duplicate order book should be used.

A sepfirate list for each tradesman should be

written out in duplicate form, giving exact

quantities requirec^ and price if possible. The

tradesmen can then send for their orders, one

list being given to them and the other retained

for reference and for the purpose of chocking

the house books. This is a safer method than

that of giving haphazard verbal orders to

message boys.

Small vouchers or weight bills should accom-

pany all goods sent from the shops, and these

should be used for checking the various items.

(For Payment of Bills, House Books, &c., see

pp. 365-66.)

GENERAL NOTES ON ORDERING GROCERIES

AND PROVISIONS

When ordering stores there are several points

to be considered besides the ordering of what

is actually requii'ed. We must consider in

addition what will keep well, what space there

is for storing it, what we can afford, and whether

or not it is the best season for a large purcheise.

The slate or indicator will help us as regards

what is wanted, as when each article is finished

or nearly so the fact ought to be noted and then

that article included in the next order.

It must be remembered that articles bought

in small quantities are often dearer in proportion

than when purchased in large quantities ; not

only is the price per pound less, but the weight

of paper and paper -bags is saved.

Good-keeping things should always be bought

in large quantities where the purse is not very

straitened and where space is not a consideration.

As there is generally a cheap and a dear

season an attempt should be made to benefit by

the former by buying in as large a store as

possible of any special commodity that will keep

well and for which there is likely to be use.

All things having a strong taste or smell, such

as spices, essences, coffee (when ground), &c.,

should be bought in small quantities, as they are

apt to deteriorate.

.Ul Grains and Cereals, Soda and Salt, may bo

bought in moderate supplies according to the

needs of the household.

Sugar may also be bought in considerable

quantities, although moist sugar must bo

watched, as it sometimes becomes infected with

sugar mite. Cano sugar is the best for all

preserving purposes ; jams made with it will

keep longer and have a better coloiu- than if

beetroot sugar were used. Beetroot sugar is,

however, quite good for other sweetening

purposes.

Tea should be bought in moderate quantities.

It should be well twisted and the leaves not too

small. Tlie special blend to use is entirely a

matter of taste.

Dried Fruits will also keep well and should be

bought in the autumn when the new fruit comes

in. Figs, however, must be carefully looked

over, as they often become infected with small

maggots.

Soap improves with keeping and may safely

be ordered in large quantities. The drier it is

the less it will waste when used. There ai-e

many different kinds - ^plain yellow soap, mottled

soap, paraffin soap. Sunlight soap, and carbolic

soap are all useful for household purposes ; also

the soft soap, which should be bought in large

tins and given out as required.

Candles will also improve with keeping.

Tinned Foods. - Choose tins that are in perfect

condition and free from rust. There should be

no bulges, which are a sign of fermentation ; the

tops and bottoms should be rather concave.

Foods preserved in earthenware or glass jars are

better and safer than tinned ones, but they

generally cost more money.

Cheese and Butter must always be chosen by

the taste. Cheap butter should be avoided - it

is better to use good dripping or lard for cooking

purposes than inferior butter.

The choice of cheese is entirely a question of

taste. For a moderately priced cheese some of

the American cheeses similar to our Cheddar

cheeses are to be recommended, also the round

Dutch cheeses. In choosing such cheeses as

Stilton, Grorgonzola, and Roquefort, select one

that combines moisture with green mould.

Cream cheeses must always be bought very

fresh and used at once.

Eggs if fresh are clear when held up to the light ;

if stale there is a dark spot or cloudy-looking

part. They may be tested by putting tnem in

salt and water - 1 ounce salt to 1 pint water ;

eggs that float in this are not good. They

should not be too light, and when shaken the

inside should not float about. When eggs are

cheap it is sometimes a good plan to buy in

large quantity and store them for the winter.

(See p. 101.)

Ham. - Choose a short thick leg with a

moderate amount of fat. The rind should be

rather thin and the bone fine. Tlie quality

may be tested by running a pointed knife or

skewer in close to the bone ; when withdrawn it

should not bo greasy nor have an unpleasant

smell, but, on the contrary, be clean and have a

good flavour. Hams vary in price according to

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

107

the manner of curing and special reputation. In

England the Yorkshire and Cumberland hams

are generally considered the finest and still

command a good price, although some of the

southern cotmties produce hams by no means

inferior. In Scotland, the Dumfries and Gallo-

way hams rank among the best, and Irish hams

from Belfast are much prized. Canadian and

Danish hams are also in the market in large

quantities, and although the flavour is not con-

sidered so delicate as that of the home-cured

variety, their moderate price recommends them

to those who have to study economy.

Bacon must be fresh and free from rustiness.

The fat should be very white ; the lean should

adlaere closely to the bone and be of a nice red

colour, and there should be as little gristle as

possible.

The following diagram mil give a general idea

of the way in which a side of bacon is usually

cut in England ; there wiU of coiirse be sub-

divisions to make smaller pieces. What is

known as " streaky " bacon and the flank are

considered the finest, but, being much in demand,

they fetch a high price. The back and loin are

also prime pieces, while the fore-end and gammon,

although not so fine in texture, do excellently

for boiled bacon.

Side of Bacon.

1. Collar.

2. Back.

3. Loin.

4. Corner.

5. Gammon.

6. Flank.

7. Streaky.

8. Fore-end.

HOW TO CHOOSE MEAT

General Hints. - It is very important to buy

meat from a good butcher, and one who can be

thoroughly trxisted.

There are certain signs by wliich the quahty

of the meat can generally be judged. The

texture should be firm and moderately elastic,

and, when pressed, should not leave the imprint

of the finger. If the flesh is flabby and moist

and has an unpleasant odour it is not good.

The lean part should be finely grained, and the

fat, wluch should not be in any undue propor-

tion, should be free from kernels, brown spots,

and streaks of blood.

The meat of most animals that have died a

natural death or by accident should be avoided.

Good meat does not waste much in cooking,

and when left on a dish the juice should not

exude from it in any quantity.

Besides these general points to be remembered

each special kind of meat has its indivndual

character by wliich it can be judged.

Beef. - The best kind of beef is of a nice red

colour, almost a cherry red, and the lean has a

marble appearance, being slightly intergrained

with fat. The fat is a pale yeUow colour, not

mottled, and the suet hard and dry. It is fine

and smooth in textiu-e, with rather an open

grain. There should be little or no gristle

between the fat and the lean, as this generally

indicates that it is the flesh of an old animal.

Beef of a dark colour with very yellow fat should

be avoided.

Beef is more nourishing and strengthening

than mutton, but not so easy of digestion. Ox

beef is better than cow beef and generally

fetches a higher price. Bull beef is very coEirse,

and is never sold by a good butcher.

Beef should be well hung before it is used

to make it tender ; the time it should hang wUl

depend upon the weather, and it must never be

allowed to become high.

Mutton. - The best mutton is pltimp and

small-boned. The quality depends very much

upon where the animal has been reared, and also

upon the age at which it is killed ; the mountain-

fed sheep are considered the best, and from four

to six years old is the best age for killing, only a

farmer can rarely afford to keep his sheep so

long, and they are generally killed between two

and three years of age.

The lean of mutton is not so red in colour as

beef, but has a darker and browner hue. It

should be firm, close in textiire, and not inter-

grained with fat. The fat should be hard and

very white and waxy. Mutton, like beef, should

be well hung.

Lamb is paler in colour than mutton, and

the fat is pearly white. When fresh, the veins

in the neck end of the fore-quarter have a

bluish tinge, and when stale these develop a

greenish hue. In the hind-quarter the kidneys

should be examined ; if they are flabby with an

unpleasant smell the meat is stale.

A piece of the caul, a thin transparent-looking

membrane, should be sent with each joint of

lamb to wrap round it and protect it when

cooking.

The New Zealand or Canterbury Iamb is much

cheaper than the home grown, but as far as

taste is concerned it is more like mutton, as

it seems to lose its characteristic flavour during

the process of freezing.

The flesh of lamb is tenderer than that of

mutton, but it is more watery and not so nutri-

tious. Lamb cannot be hung for very long.

Pork. - Pork requires very careful choosing

as it is more subject to diseeise than perhaps

any other animal food, and unless one is sure

of its source it is safer to leave it alone. The

flesh should be of a pinky white colour, smooth,

finely grained, and firm to the toucli. The skin

108

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

must not be too thick. Tlie fat sliould be

pearly white with no black specks nor kernels.

Small pork is the best. It is much more difficult

to digest than either beef or mutton, as it con-

tains such a large proportion of fat.

Veal is the flesh of the calf. It should bo

very pale in colour, firm, and closely grained.

The fat should be white, and if that which sur-

rounds the kidney is hard and without smell

the meat is in good condition. Veal is not so

nutritious as beef and it is more difficult of

digestion. Like all other young moats, it should

not l:>e hung verj' long.

Venison is the flesh of deer. Tlie lean should

be finely grained and dark in colour. The fat

should bo plentiful and of a creamy white

appearance.

The age can be judged by the hoof ; in the

young animal the cleft is small and smooth,

while in the older one it has become much

deeper and more rugged.

Venison should be hung as long as possible,

but it must be frequently examined. Its fresh-

ness can be tested by running a knife or skewer

into the bone at the haunch ; if when withdrawn

it smoUs well and is not sticky this is a sure

sign of good condition.

The flesh of the buck is considered superior to

that of the doe.

Suet. - This must be very fresh and of good

quaUty. The solid fat, which surrounds the

kidney, either beef or mutton, is considered the

best. Beef suet should be cream coloured or

pale yellow and mutton suet very white and

waxy. Both should be very firm and dry.

Internal Meats. - All inside meats such as

tripe, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, &c., must be

bought very fresh and used at once.

CALENDAR OF MEAT IN SEASON

Beef, Mutton, and Veal are in season all the

year round.

Lamb. - House lamb from January to May,

grass lamb from May to September, and New

Zealand lamb all the year round.

Pork. - All the year round, but best from

September to May.

Venison. - Buck venison from May to October,

doe venison from October to end of January.

DIFFERENT JOINTS OF MEAT AND

THEIR USES

The cutting up of meat varies somewhat

according to locality and also according to the

special demands of the people with whom the

butchers have to deal.

The following diagrams will give an idea of

how the different animals are cut up by English

butchers, and m.ay also be of assistance to the

housewife in knowing what pioco to order for

the special purpose she has in view.

BEEF

Diagram showing niofle of cutting up Beef

in England.

Sirloin.

:o.

Fore Ribs.

Rump.

11.

Middle Ribs.

Aitchbone.

12.

Chuck Ribs.

Buttock.

13.

Leg of Mutton Piec

Mouse Buttock.

14.

Brisket.

Veiny parts.

15.

Clod.

Thick Flank.

16.

Keck.

Thin Flank.

17.

Shin.

18.

Cheek.

The Sirloin. - This is the best part for roasting,

but it is somewhat expensive. It is usually

divided into three pieces varying in weight

according to the size of the animal. The middle

cut is considered the best, as it has the largest

amovmt of undercut. The piece next the ribs

has very little undercut, and the one next the

rump is a joint difficult to carve, as it has a piece

of bone on one side.

The sirloins from both sides of the animal

not cut asunder form what is called the baron of

beef, corresponding to the saddle in mutton.

This is a joint rarely seen nowadays, but was

famous at banquets in the days of our ancestors.

The fillet or undercut of tlie sirloin is the most

tender part for entries or fillets of beef.

Ribs. - The cuts from the ribs are also good

for roasting, those nearest the sirloin being

the best. Various sizes of joints can be cut

according to special requirements. It is more

economical to have the bone removed and used

for soup and the meat itself rolled. One or

two ribs treated in this way make a neat little

roast for a small family. \Vhen a large cut of

the ribs is ordered and roasted whole, it is better

to havo the thin end cut off and used for a

separate dish, otherwise it becomes overcooked

before the thicker part is ready. The piece of

ribs next the shoulder is better stewed or braised

than roasted.

The Rump. - ^This is divided into three parts

- the middle, the silver-side, and the chump end.

The middle is an excellent piece of fleshy meat

for any purpose. Some of the best steaks are

cut from tliis part ; it is also a first-rato cut for

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

109

pies, for rolled beef, or for a tender stew. The

chump end is also good for stewing. Tho silver-

side is very often salted and is good for boiling.

Buttock or Round. - This is another very fleshy

piece of meat vath little bone. It is one of

the best pieces for braising or boiling, and

is often salted. It can also be roasted, but,

although economical, it is not so fine in flavour

as the ribs or sirloin.

Aitch Bone, or Edge Bone. - This is a cheap

piece of meat, but as it contains a large propor-

tion of bone and wastes very much in cooking

it is not really economical. It is an awkwardly

shaped joint and very difficult to carve. It is

generally boiled and sometimes salted.

Brisket. - This is also sold at a low price,

and is used principally for boiling or stewing.

It is rather fat, but is excellent when salted and

boiled and then served cold.

Flank. - The thick flank is one of the most

economical parts to buy, as it contains no bone

and verj^ little fat. Suitable for braising, stew-

ing, and boiling. The thin flank contains much

more fat, and is best salted, boiled, and eaten

cold.

The Clod and Sticking Piece are both some-

what coarse and only suitable for soup or cheap

stews.

Shin. - This is also coarse grained and very

gelatinous. It is excellent for stock and soup.

The top part will also make an economical stew

if slowly and carefully cooked.

Cheek. - Only suitable for stews and for

making soup. As it contains so much bone it

is not really economical.

Cow Heel is very gelatinous, and is iised

principally for making jelly, or, along with

iTieat, as a foundation for soups. It can also be

carefully boiled or stewed and then eaten with a

good and piquant sauce.

Tail. - This is somewhat expensive. It is

used for making soups, and can also be stewed

or braised.

Heart. - This is rather coarse and very in-

digestible, but it can be made palatable by

being stuffed and very carefully roasted or

braised.

Tongue is usually salted and then boiled

and served cold, or served hot with a good

sauce, or cut in sUces for an entr^.

Tripe. - The inner lining of the stomach.

It is usually sold partially prepared, although in

Scotland it requires many hours' boiling. It is

very tender and easily digested, and for this

reason is frequently ordered for invalids.

There are several different kinds of tripe

popularly known as " honeycomb," " blanket,"

" double " or " book " (because it is like the

leaves of a book), and " reed " the dark -coloured

portion.

Liver. - This is a cheap piece, and is nutritious

for those who can digest it. It requires careful

cooking.

Kidneys.^Used for making soup. Can also be

stewed, although rather indigestible.

Midriff. - A thin fleshy piece which runs across

the middle of the animal. It is rich in flavour

and is very good for stews or beef-steak pudding.

Sweetbread. - In the ox tliis part is coarse, and

can only be made palatable by careful cooking.

VEAL

Mode of cuttlnc up a Calf.

1. Loin.

2. Chump end of Loin.

3. Fillet.

4. Hind-knuckle.

5. Fore-knuckle.

6. Neck (best end).

7. Shoulder.

8. Blade-bone.

9. Breast.

10. Flank.

11. Head.

Veal, which is the flesh of the calf, is cut up

into the following different joints : -

The Fillet. - One of the finest pieces, very

fleshy with little or no bone. Can be used for

any pvu-pose. The best cutlets are cut from

this part. It is high priced, but not over

expensive, as there is practically no waste.

The Breast. - If boned, stuffed and rolled,

this part makes a nice little joint for roasting.

It can also be braised or stewed. Entrees are

also prepared from this piece.

The Loin. - One of the best pieces for roasting,

also for chops.

The Neck. - A good joint for breiising or

stewing. Can also be roasted. The best end

may be cut into chops. The scrag-end is more

suitable for broth.

Knuckle. - This is a favourite part for soup

or broth and is much used in the making of

white stock. The fore-knuckle is more tender

than the hind-knuckle and is often stewed or

boiled and served with a good sauce.

Head and Feet are sometimes served to-

gether as a hash, b\it, being rather insipid in

flavour, they require a good sauce. They can

also be used for pies, when some ham should be

added, and for different entr^s. The head is

iised for soup- Mock Turtle Soup - and the feet

for maJking jelly - Calf's Foot Jelly.

110

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Sweetbread. - This is considered a great

delicacy, and is generally expensive. It is much

iised for entrees, and is a favourite dish for

invalids. The throat Bweotbrcad, which is the

thymus gland of the calf, is considered inferior

in quality to the heart sweetbread.

Kidney. - Generally sold along with a piece of

the loin and roasted. Can also be used separ-

ately in the same way as sheep's kidneys.

Brains. - A \ory delicate morsel for entr6es.

Liver and Heart. - Can be used in the same way

as sheep's hver and heart.

MUTTON

The following diagram will give an idea of the

different joints into which mutton is cut : -

Diagram showing mode of cutting up a Sheep.

1. Leg.

2. Loin.

3. Chump end of the Loin.

4. Neck (best end).

5. Scrag.

6. Shoulder.

7. Breast

8. Head.

9. Shank.

10. Trotter.

The Leg. - This is one of the most economical

cuts for boiling or roeisting, as it is lean with a

small amount of bone in proportion to its size.

It is too large a joint for a small family. It is

sometimes a good plan to have it cut in two

pieces and to roast one piece and boil or stew the

other. \Vlien a piece of the loin is cut along

with the log it is called the haunch.

The Loin. - This is generally divided into two

parts, the best end and the chump end, or

even subdivided into separate cutlets or chops.

The loin makes one of the finest and most

delicate roasts, but it is not economical owing to

the large proportion of fat and bone. If ordering

for a roast it must be well jointed by the butcher

or it will be found difficult to carve, or sometimes

the chine bone, the bone which runs down the

centre of the back, is sawn nearly off and then

removed altogether after cooking. The double

loin from both sides of the animal is called the

saddle. It is considered a very fine joint, but

too large for an ordinary household.

The Necii. - The best end of the neck is also

used for cutlets. It is an excellent piece

for broiling and braising, as it is tender and

delicate in flavour. The scrag-end, wliich Ues

nearer the liead, is a cheap piece of an awkward

shape and contains a good deal of bone. It is

only suitable for broth or plain stews as it is

impossible to cut it in neat pieces.

The Shoulder. - This is another good joint for

roasting, and some people prefer it to the leg.

It is perhaps more delicate in flavour, but is

inchnod to be fat. It can aiao be braised or

boiled.

The Breast. - Is a cheap piece of mutton with

much fat and skin. If boned, stulTed, and

rolled it makes quite a nice little roast. It is

also very suitable for Irish stew where the

potatoes absorb some of the fat.

The Head and Trotters are generally sold at

a low price, but they make excellent broth,

and can also be served as a dish by themselves

with a good sauce or made into a pie and served

cold.

The Pluclc. - This consists of the heaxt, liver

and lungs, which are often sold together. In

Scotland they form the foundation of haggis.

The lungs, or lights, are very inferior, and by

themselves are seldom used, except perhaps as

cats' meat. The heart is sometimes sold by

itself, and is very good stuffed and roasted.

The hver can also be bought separately, and is

generally fried or sauteed along with a httle

bacon.

Kidneys. - These are very dainty morsels

and are a favourite breakfast delicacy. They

axe generally broiled or stewed, and are also used

along with beef in pies and stews. The Iwn

roast often contains one of the kidneys.

LAMB

When lamb is large it is usually cut up and

used in the same way as mutton, but when small

it is cut in quarters. The fore-quarter consists

of the neck, shoulder, and breast, and the hind-

quarter of the leg and the loin.

If the hind-quarter makes too large a joint the

upper part may be cut into chops and served as

one dish, while the lower portion will make a nice

little roast or may be steamed and served with a

good sauce. Or a larger -sized piece may be cut

off the top and made into a stew or braised.

The fore-quarter may be divided in the same

way, the breast piece being stewed or braised

and the shoulder roasted. The chops from the

neck may also be cut off separately and either

broiled or fried or used for hotch-potch.

Lamb's Head can be used in the same way as

sheep's head and is more delicate in flavour.

Lamb's Fry, consisting of the liver, sweetbread,

and heart, is generally cut in slices and fried.

The sweetbreads alone are considered a great

delicacy and are much used for entr^s.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

111

PORK

Diagram showing different cuts of Pork.

1. Spare Kib. 4. Fore-loin.

2. Hand. 5. Loin.

3. Spring or Belly. 6. Leg.

The usual joints of fresh pork are the follow-

ing :-

The Loin is generally scored and roasted.

Pork chops are also cut from this part.

Leg. - Another piece for roasting. The skin

must always be scored by the butcher, or it

would be impossible to carve the joint. It is

sometimes salted and then boiled.

The Hand and Spring or Belly. - These parts

are rather fat, and are usually salted. They

are best boiled and served cold.

Head. - Usually salted. Can be made into

brawn or boiled and served cold.

Feet (Pettitoes) can be cooked in various

ways. Usually boiled or stewed.

The Tongue should be pickled and then served

in the same way as sheep's tongue.

VENISON

The finest joint for roasting is the Haunch.

The Loin and Neck are also good roasting pieces.

The Shoulder and Breast are better stewed or

made into a ragoHt. Chops are usually cut from

the loin or neck and steaks from the leg,

t №

FROZEN MEAT

Large quantities of meat are now imported

from abroad in a frozen condition and sold

in this country at a considerably lower price

than that of home production. New Zealand,

Australia, the United States, S. America, and

Canada all send us in supplies.

The prejudice against tlois kind of meat has

to a large extent disappeared, and it is certainly

an immense boon to those who cannot afford

the high prices asked for our home-fed meat.

Needless to say, this foreign meat does not

equal British meat as far as quality and flavour

are concerned ; the process of freezing apparently

takes away from its goodness, but with careful

thawing and good cooking it compares very

favourably with the more expensive joints, and

in many cases it requires an experienced palate

to detect the difference.

Mutton and lamb seem to suSer less than beef

from the process of freezing. That known as

Canterbury lamb is the best. When ordering

frozen meat it must be remembered that it will

not keep in warm weather without a refrigerator.

HOW TO CHOOSE FISH

General Hints. - Fish to be good ought to be

in season.

Moderately -sized fish are better than very large

ones, especially those which are thick and plump

in proportion to their size. A short thick fish is

always better than one that is long and thin.

There are several signs by which its freshness

can be judged ; the fish should be firm and stiff,

and when held up the tail should not droop ; but

this alone is not sufficient sign, as fish kept on

ice will retain its rigidity although several days

old, so we must look for other signs as well.

The gills in fresh fish are a bright red, the eyes

are bright and not sunken, and the scales also are

bright and can be easily removed when rubbed.

A flat fish should never be bought without

looking at both sides, and especially the grey

side, as this betrays any want of freshness more

quickly than the white.

A plaice, for instance, can always be judged

by its spots ; when fresh they are a bright red,

and after it has been kept some time they take

a brownish hue.

In choosing cut fish, such as cod, halibut, or

salmon, &c., the flesh should have a firm appear-

ance with a close grain; if it looks fibrous and

watery it is not good.

Never choose fish that is bruised or has the

skin broken, as it will not keep well.

CALENDAR OF FISH IN SEASON

January. - Barbel, bream, brill, carp, cod,

dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut,

hake, herring, hng, mackerel, perch, pike, plaice,

skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench,

thornback, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, slirimps.

February. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory, eels,

flounders, gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring,

ling, mackerel, mullet, plaice, perch, pike,

salmon, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon,

tench, thornback, trout, turbot, whitebait,

whiting.

Crab, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

prawns, scallops, slii-imps.

March. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders,

gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, ling, mackerel,

mullet, pike, salmon, skate, smelts, soles, sprats

(tench until 15th), thornback, trout, tiu-bot,

whiting, whitebait.

112

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

pra'wns, scallops, shrimps.

April. - Bream, brill, chub, conger eel, cod,

dory, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,

ling, mackerel, mullet, plaice, salmon, shad,

skate, smelts, soles, sturgeon, turbot, trout,

whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, ojrsters,

prawns, scallops, shrimps.

May. - Bass, brill, cod, dace, dory, eels,

gurnet, hake, halibut, herring, ling, mackerel,

mullet, salmon, shad, skate, smelts, soles,

sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, scallops,

shrimps.

Jane. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, cod,

dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, halibut,

hake, haddock, herring, lampreys, mackerel,

mullet, porch (after 15th), pike, plaice, salmon,

shad, soles, tench, trout, turbot, wliitebait,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.

Joly. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, dace,

dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, hake,

halibut, herring, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike,

plaice, salmon, sea-bream, shad, smelts, soles,

tench, thornback, trout, turbot, whitebait,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.

August. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, dace,

dory, eels, flounders, giu-nets, haddock, hake,

halibut, herring, lamprey, mackerel, mullet,

plaice, perch, pike, salmon, sea-bream, shad,

soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, prawns, shrimps.

September. - Bass, bream, brill, carp, cod,

chub, dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, had-

dock, hake, halibut, herring, lampreys, mackerel,

mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon, sea-bream,

shad, smelts, soles, tench, trout, turbot, white-

bait, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, oysters, shrinaps.

October. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory, eels,

flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,

mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon,

sea-bream, skate, soles, smelts, tench, turbot,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, shrimps.

November. - Bream, brill, carp, cod, dory,

flounders, eels, gurnet, haddock, halibut, herring,

mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, salmon

(Dutch), skate, smelts, sprats, soles, tench,

turbot, whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, shrimps.

December. - Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders,

gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, mackerel,

mu'let, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch),

sea-bream, skate, smelt, sprats, soles, tench,

whiting.

Crabs, crayfish, lobsters, mussels, oysters,

scallops, shrimps.

ON CHOOSING GAME AND POULTRY

General Rules for Choosing Poultry. - AH

poultry when young should have smooth and

pliable legs, with the scales overlapping very

slightly. The spur on the leg must be short and

not prominent, and the feet should be soft and

rather moist. If the spur is large and the legs

hard and dry the bird is no longer young. The

flesh should be smooth and without long hairs.

Wlien choosing a bird that has not been plucked

it should be seen that the plumage is smooth and

downy with soft young feathers under the wing

and on the breast. If freshly killed the eyes

will be clear and not sunken ; there will be no

discoloration of the flesh and the vent will be

hard and close.

When poultry is bought quite fresh it may bo

hung for a few days, but should not be dfaw n

until about to be used. It must never be over-

hung, and when it shows the least sign of turning

green it is unfit for food.

Fowls. - The comb should be smooth and of a

bright red colour. For roasting choose a fowl

with black or yellow legs, as they are supposed

to be more juicy and to possess a better flavour.

For boiling, choose one with white legs, as the

flesh will likely be whiter.

A fowl for roasting, frying, or grilling should

be young and tender, but for boiling, braising,

or stewing an older one may be taken, as old

birds are generally cheaper, and long slow

cooking makes them tender.

Geese and Ducks. - Young birds have yellow

feet and bills with few bristles ; as they get older

they become darker and redder, although the

wild duck has small reddish feet even when

young. The feet should be white and smooth

and without wrinkles. A goose must always

be eaten young ; when over twelve months old

it is not good for table use.

Pigeons. - A dark-coloured one is thought to

have the highest flavour, and a light-coloured

one the most delicate. The legs should be of a

pinkish colour ; wlien they are largo and deeply

coloured the bird is old. The tame pig'^on is

smaller than the wild species and is better for

cooking. Tame pigeons shou'd be cooked at

once as they soon lose their flavour, but wood

pigeons may be hung for a few days.

Turlieys. - A good turkey will be recognised by

the whiteness of its flesh and its smooth black legs.

Tlie wattles should be a bright red, the breast

full and the neck long. Beware of those with

long hairs and flesh of a violet hue. A moderate-

sized bird should be chosen. A hen is preferable

for boiling on account of the whiteness of the

flesh, and the cock is usually chosen for roasting.

If freshly killed it should be kept for at least

three or four days before cooking or it will

neither be white not tender. It should be hung

up to bleed.

Norfolk turkeys eire considered the best.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

113

Game. - It is rather more diflBcult to choose

game than it is to choose poultry, as the birds are

usually sold unplucked, but still some of the

same signs will hold good. The young birds

are known by their smooth and pUable legs and

short rounded spurs. The feet should be supple

aVid moist and easily broken. The feathers

also help to indicate the age of the bird, as when

young there are soft and downy ones under the

wing and on the breast. The plumage of the

young bird is even and soft, the long feathers

of the wings are pointed, while in the older bird

these become round and the colours are usually

brighter.

The condition of the bird can be judged by

turning back the feathers of the breast and seeing

if it feels pkunp and hard ; it should also weigh

hea%'y for its size.

As regards the time for keeping game, it is

impossible to lay down any definite rules. To

begin with it depends very much upon in-

dividual taste, those who have it seldom as a

rule Uking it higher than those who are con-

stantly having it. Then old birds can be hung

for a longer time than young ones, and again

the weather must be taken into consideration ;

close muggy days will not be so good for keeping

purposes as those which are dry and cold.

Game should be hung unplucked and un-

drawn and in a current of air if possible. It

must be remembered that if it is required to

taste high when cooked, it should smell almost

offensively so beforehand.

Water birds should always be eaten fresh, as

their flesh, being of an oily nature, very soon

becomes sour.

Hares and Rabbits. - When young the claws

are long and pointed, the cleft in the jaws is

very narrow, the teeth are small and white, and

the ears can easily be torn. The small nut

under the paw should also be well developed.

When the animal is old the claws become

roimded and rough, the cleft in the jaw deepens,

the front teeth are long and yellow, and the ears

become tough and dry, and the little nut under

the paw disappears.

Rabbits, like poultry, should be used fresh.

Choose one that is plump and short-necked, and

the flesh should be stiff without any discolora-

tion. Wild rabbits are generally preferred to

tame ones, as they are considered to have a better

flavour. The flesh of the tame rabbit is wliite

and more delicate. A rabbit should be paunched

before it is hung up.

Hares, on the contrary, require to be well hung

- at least a week - and should not be paunched

until about to be used.

CALENDAR OF POULTRY AND GAME IN

SEASON

The following will be found useful for ready

reference : -

January. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens,

ducks, fowls, geese, hares, larks, landrails,

partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintail, plover,

pullets, snipe, tiu-keys, wild-fowl, widgeon,

woodcock.

February. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens,

ducks, fowls, geese, hares, larks, landrails,

partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintail, plover,

ptarmigan, pullets, prairie-hen, rabbits, snipe,

turkeys, teal, wild-fowl, widgeon, woodcock.

March. - Capons, capercailzie, chickens, ducks,

fowls, geese, guinea-fowls, hares, landrails, orto-

lans (partridges, pheasants, and plover until

middle of month), prairie-hens, ptarmigan,

pigeons, pullets, quail, rabbits, ruffs and reeves,

snipe (until 15th), teal, turkeys, widgeon, wild-

fowl, woodcock.

April. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,

fowls, guinea-fowls, goshngs, hares, leverets,

ortolans, prairie-hens, pigeons, ptarmigan, quail,

rabbit, ruffs and reeves.

May. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,

fowls, guinea-fowls, gosHngs, green geese, hares,

leverets, ortolans, pigeons, ptarmigan, pullets,

quail, rabbits, rufis and reeves.

June. - Capons, chickens, ducks, ducklings,

fowls, guinea-fowls, gosUngs, green geese, hares,

hazel hens, leverets, ortolans, pigeons, puUets,

quails, rabbits, ruffs and reeves, turkey poults,

wheatears.

July. - Capons, chickens, ducks, duckhngs,

fowls, green geese, gosUngs, hares, leverets,

ortolans, pigeons, plover, pullets, quail, rabbits,

ruffs and reeves, turkey poults, wheatears.

August. - Capercailzie, capons, chickens, wild

and tame ducks, duckhngs, fowls, geese, gos-

Ungs, grouse (on I2th), hares, larks, leverets,

pigeons, plover, pullets, quails, rabbits, smpe,

teal, turkey poults, woodcock, wheatears.

September. - Capercailzie, capons, chickens,

wild and tame ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, haxes,

larks, leverets, moor-game, partridges, pheasants,

pigeons, plovers, pullets, rabbits, snipe, t\irkeys,

turkey poults, teal, widgeon, woodcock, wheat-

ears.

October. - Black game, capercailzie, capons,

cliickens, wild ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, hares,

larks, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, pintails,

plover, ptarmigan, pullets, rabbits, snipe,

turkeys, turkey poults, teal, widgeon, wood-

cock.

November. - Black game, capercailzie, capons,

chickens, wild and tame ducks, fowls, geese,

grouse, hares, larks, landrails, peu-tridges,

pheasants, pigeons, pintails, plover, ptarmigan,

pullets, rabbits, snipe, turkeys, turkey poults,

teal, widgeon, woodcock.

December. - Black game, capercailzie (until

20th), capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese,

grouse (until 18th), hares, landrails, larks,

partridges, pheasants, pintail, plover, ptarmigan,

rabbits, snipe, teal, turkeys, turkey poxilts,

\vidgeon, woodcock.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE CHOOSING OF FRUIT AND

VEGETABLES

Although it does not require much experience

to tell when fruit and vegetables are fresh, it

does require some attention and care to see that

one is served with the proper article.

Vegetables are never so good as when pro-

ciired fresh from a garden, and when one is

not the happy possessor of a piece of ground

it is sometimes possible to make an arrange-

ment with a gai'dener or farmer to send a

supply two or three times weekly, if not

daily.

If vegetables and fruit have to be bought from

a shop personal choice is always preferable to

a written order. The greengrocer or fruiterer

is naturally anxious to get rid of his stock, and

it is not to be wondered at if he tries to dispose

of the articles he has had longest before selling

those which are fresh.

The careful housewife will, however, insist

upon getting wliat is really fresh and will accept

nothing that is doubtful.

Salads and other green vegetables especially

are only good when newly gathered ; if they

have been IjHng packed one on top of the other

for any length of time they become unwhole-

some, and this is often the cause of green vege-

tables disagreeing with people who have a weak

digestion.

Cauliflowers should be close and very white,

and those of a medium size are best; avoid

those that have a greenish colovu-.

Brassels Sprouts and Cabbages should be close

and firm with plenty of heart. Young cabbages

are the most delicate in flavour.

Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows should also

be firm, and those of a medium size and straight

in form are to be preferred to the twisted and

overgrown specimens.

Tomatoes must not be over-ripe. Tlio home-

grown red tomatoes are best for salads and for

eating raw, while the foreign ones, which are

cheaper, are excellent for cooking purposes.

Peas and Beans are best when they are young,

especially if they are to be served separately as

vegetables to accompany meat. The older ones

can be served in soups and stews.

Celery should be chosen of a medium size, and

tlie stalks must be very stiff and close -together.

The whiter it is the better.

Root Vegetables, unlike green vegetables, may

bo kept for some time without suffering in any

way ; they must, however, bo firm and not

withered or shrunken. Some kinds, such as

potatoes, carrots, turnips, and parsnips can even

be stored for -winter use (see p. 102). Potatoes,

for instance, can often be bought very cheaply

by the sack in the summer, and there may bo a

distinct advantage in laying in a store at this

season. There must, of course, bo the proper

accommodation for keeping tliom, and the

greatest care must be taken to see that they axe

sound and good when bought.

It is always best to buy the vegetables that

are in season ; they are then at their cheapest

and best. The early and forced varieties rarely

have the same flavour as those of maturcr growth

and should not be bought by the tlirifty house-

wife for the ordinary bill of fare.

The same care must be taken in the choice of

fruit, and only that which is perfectly sound

should bo accepted. Wlien it is to be eaten raw

it ought to be fully ripe without being over-

much so.

CALENDAR OF FRUIT IN SEASON

January. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, medlars, nuts, oranges,

pears, pines, Spanish nuts, walnuts, &c.

February. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, medlars, nuts,

oranges, peaches, pears, pines, rhubarb (forced),

Spanish nuts, walnuts, &c.

March. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, figs, grapes, lemons, melons, nuts, oranges,

peaches, pears, pines, rhubarb (forced), Spanish

nuts, walnuts, &c.

April. - Almonds, apples, bananas, dried fruits,

figs, grapes, nuts, oranges, pines, rhubarb, &c.

May. - Almonds, apples, apricots (forced),

bananas, cherries (forced), dried fruits, figs,

grapes, green gooseberries, melons, oranges,

pears, pines, rhubarb, &c.

June. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bananas,

cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, grapes,

melons, nectarines, poaches, pears, pines, rasp-

berries, rhubarb, strawberries, &c.

July. - Almonds, apricots, bananas, cherries,

currants, damsons, figs, gooseberries, grapes,

melons, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears,

pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, &c.

August. - Almonds, apricots, bananas, cherries,

cobnuts, currants, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes,

greengages, medlars, melons, mulberries, nectar-

ines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,

raspberries, strawberries, walnuts, &c.

September. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bana-

nas, cherries, cobnuts, damsons, figs, filberts,

grapes, greengages, melons, medlars, mulberries,

nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,

quinces, walnuts, &c.

October. - Almonds, apples, apricots, bananas,

cobnuts, cranberries, cocoanuts, damsons, figs,

filberts, grapes, medlars, melons, nectarines,

oranges, peaches, pears, pines, quinces, walnuts,

&c.

November. - Almonds, apples, bananas, chest-

nuts, cocoanuts, cranberries, figs, filberts,

grapes, melons, nuts (various), pears, pines,

pomegranates, plums (Californian), quinces,

walnuts, &c.

December. - Almonds, apples, bananas, cheat-

nuts, cocoanuts, cranberries, figs, filberts, grapes.

FOOD AND THE KITCHEN

115

melons, nuts (various), oranges, pears, pines,

plums (Californian), pomegranates, rhubai'b

(forced), walnuts, &c.

CALENDAR OF VEGETABLES IN SEASON.

January. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,

Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots,

celery, chervil, cress, cucumbers, endive, leeks,

lettuce, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salsify,

savoys, spinach, tomatoes, turnips.

February. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,

Brussels sprouts, cabbage, celery, chervil, cress,

cucumbers, endive, greens, leeks, lettuce, mush-

rooms, potatoes, onions, parsnips, salsify,

Scotch kale, savoys, sorrel, spinach, tomatoes,

turnips.

March. - Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broc-

coli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots,

cauliflower, celery, chervil, cucumber, endive,

greens, horse-radish, leeks, lettuce, muslirooms,

onions, parsnips, new potatoes, radishes, savoys,

spinach, sea and Scotch kale, turnips, tomatoes,

watercress.

April. - Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, cab-

bage, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, endive,

eschalots, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, spring

onions, parsnips, new potatoes, radishes, sea-

kale, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips.

May. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,

cabbage, new carrots, cauliflower, chervil,

cucumbers, endive, lettuce, leoks, mxishrooms,

mustard and cress, peas, new potatoes, spring

onions, radishes, sea-kale, spinach, turnips,

watercress.

June. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,

new carrots, cucumbers, endive,

greens, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips,

peas, new potatoes, spring onions, radishes,

sea-kale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable

marrow, watercress.

July. - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot,

broad beans, cabbage, carrots, cauUflower,

chervil, cress, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce,

mushrooms, spring onions, peas, new potatoes,

scarlet runners, spinach, tomatoes, turnipg,

vegetable marrow, watercress.

August. - Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbage,

carrots, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumbers,

endive, leeks, lettuce, muslirooms, peas, pota-

toes, salsify, scarlet runners, spinach, tomatoes,

turnips, vegetable marrow, watercress.

September. - Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cab-

bage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumber,

endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips,

peas, salsify, scarlet runners, spinach, sprouts,

tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, water-

cress.

October. - Artichokes, beetroot, cabbage,

carrots, cauUflower, celery, cucumber, greens,

leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, savoys,

scarlet runners, Spanish onions, spinach, sprouts,

tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, water-

cress.

November. - Artichokes, beetroot, Brussels

sprouts, carrots, celery, cress, cucumber, greens,

leeks, lettuce, parsnips, savoys, Spanish onions,

spinach, tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress.

December. - Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli,

Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower,

celery, cucumber, greens, leeks, parsnips, salsify,

savoys, Scotch and sea-kale, Spanish onions,

tomatoes, turnip tops, vegetable marrow,

watercress.

IMPERIAL WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

Avoirdupois Weight

16 drachms (dr. )

16 ounces

28 pounds

4 quarters . .

20 hundredweights

14 pounds

8 stones

112 pounds

make 1 ounce (oz.).

,, 1 pound (lb.).

" 1 quarter (qr.).

" 1 hundredweight

(cwt.).

1 ton.

make 1 stone.

" 1 hundredweight.

Liquid Measure of Capacity

4 gills make 1 pint (pt.).

2 pints ,,1 quart (qrt.).

4 quarts , 1 gallon (gal.).

Dry Measure of Capacity

2 gallons make 1 peck (pk.).

4 pecks " 1 bushel (bush.).

8 bushels " 1 quarter (qr.).

GUIDE TO COOKERY

It is a very mistaken idea that good cooking is necessarily an expensive matter. On the contrary,

it is the skilful cook who literally " gathers up the fragments that nothing may be lost," and the

careless one who looks upon them aa trifles not worthy of consideration.

We as a nation are very much behindhand in our cooking arrangements, and it is only now that

we are beginning to realise that training in the subject should form an important branch of every

girl's education.

It is Hamerton who says that " Intellectual labour is in its origin as dependent upon the art of

cookery as the dissemination of its results is dependent upon paper-making and printing. Cookery

in its perfection - the great science of preparing food in the best way suited to our use - is really the

most important of all sciences and the mother of the arts."

In the following paragraphs elaborate dishes which require the skill of a professed cook, very

expensive dishes and dishes which take a long time to prepare have been purposely excluded, and

only those given which are within the power of the amateur and home-worker. It cannot be too

emphatically ui'ged, however, that to ensure success great care is needed in the preparation of every

dish.

The cook, whether professional or amateur, owes something to the author of the recipes she uses,

and that debt is not discharged if the recipes are carelessly read and carelessly followed. Nearly

every one has heard the remark, " I am sure I don't know why the dish is like this - the recipe must be

^\Tong." The recipe cannot reply : can only defend itself by success, and so in the interests of fair

play it ought to receive just treatment. Accuracy in the weighing and measuring of ingredients must

be strongly insisted upon. Cooking may be an art, but it is also a science, and to ensure success we

must be exact. There must bo no guess-work. An ounce more or less may bring ruin on your

labours.

Let all your materials be good of their kind, and do not of set purpose substitute one ingredient

for another.

See also that the fire is in good condition for the cooking required of it, or that the oven is in a

fair way to be at the right heat by the time you are ready to use it.

Lastly, do not scorn those little details of arrangement which add nothing to the taste, but only

to the tastcfulness of the dish. A little fresh parsley, a lace-edged paper, a sprinkling of sugar, &c.,

may make all the difference between a tempting and an untompting dish.

STOCKS, SOUPS, AND PUREES

GeDeral Remarks on Stocks and Soups. - It is

quite an art to make a good soup, but it is an

art easily mastered if only a little care and

trouble are expended upon its acquirement.

There are few things, whether fish, flesh, fowl

or vegetable, which will not lend themselves to

soup-making. The variety of soups is very

great ; in fact, it has been reckoned that there

are over half a thousand different recipes. This

number, however, is obtained by giving a separ-

ate) title to every separate variation of a com-

bination. For example, clear stock, which is

the basis of so many clear soups, will take a

different name from each special garnish or

flavouring that is added to it, and the same

throughout with the other soups - the slightest

variations will furnish the occasion for a dis-

tinctive name. When the numerous recipes come

to be examined, it will bo found that, broadly

speaking, they can be classified under one of the

three following headings : -

(1) Clear Soups and Broths.

(2) Thickened Soups.

(3) Purees.

An explanation of these different classes of

soups is given below, along with a few typical

recipes, which ought to serve as a guide to the

other varieties.

The excellence of the soup will depend to a

largo extent upon slow and steady cooking and

to the judicious introduction of the flavouring.

Although all soup should bo sufficiently seasoned

116

GUIDE TO COOKERY

117

before it is sent to table, salt must always be

added with care, as an over -salted soup can be

relished by no one.

In the following recipes the approximate

amount of liquid required is always given, but

the exact quantity will depend somewhat upon

the rate of cooking. If the soup becomes too

much reduced by boiling and, consequently, too

thick, more water or stock must be added to

make up the original allowance.

Tlie vegetables, too, are always spoken of as

'prepared, and full directions for doing this will

be found under the heading of " Vegetables."

STOCK

Stock is the foundation of nearly all soups,

and it can be made from fresh meat, bones,

fish, vegetables, or scraps of cooked meat and

bones, &c.

For the better soups, such aa clear soup and

good whito soup, fresh meat is required, while

second stock or general stock will serve as the

foundation for many of the ordinary soups, and,

besides furnishing the Hquid part of stews,

whether white or brown, it wiU go a long way

towards making gravies and sauces a success.

There are different kinds of stock, i.e. brown,

white, and fish stock, meat boilings and general

stock. Of brown stock and white stock both a

first and second stock can be made.

Brown stock is made principally from beef with

sometimes a little veal or some chicken bones

added.

White stock is made from any white meat such

as veal, rabbit, or chicken.

First stock is the first boiling of the meat and

vegetables.

Second stock is produced by putting the meat

and vegetables on to boU a second time with

fresh water.

Fish stock, as its name implies, is made from

fish or fish trimmings.

Meat boilings is the name given to the water

in which a joint of meat, fowl, or rabbit has

been boiled.

General stock is made from scraps of meat,

bones, and vegetables, and drawn from a stock-

pot.

PmST STOCK FOR CLEAR AND BROWN

SOUPS

Ingredients -

3 lbs. Shin of Beef or 2 lbs.

Shin of Beef and 1 lb.

Knuckle of Veal. •

3 quarts Cold Water.

1 Carrot.

1 Turnip.

1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs

or a sprig of Thyme,

Marjoram, and Basil.

Method,

2 small Onions.

2 or 3 sticks of Celery or J

tea-spoonful Celery Seed.

2 dozen Peppercorns.

8 Cloves.

1 blade of Mace.

2 Bay Leaves.

A few Parsley Stalks.

. dessert-spoonful Salt.

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth.

a very sharp knife and cut the meat into small

pieces, keeping back any fat, but using the skin.

Put the bones and meat into a stock-pot or

large goblet with the cold water and salt, and

if time permits let them soak for half-an-hour ;

then put the pan on the fire, and bring the

contents slowly to tire boil. Simmer slowly

for haK-an-hour, and then remove any scum

that may be on the top. If you begin the

skimming too soon, the best part of the stock

is removed. Next add the vegetables, prepared

and cut rather small, and the herbs, celery seed,

and peppercorns, &c., tied in a small piece of

muslin. Simmer slowly from four and a half to

five hours, never letting it go oif the boil ; then

strain through a hair sieve or cloth stretched

over a colander into a basin, and stand until

cold.

A darker-coloured stock may be obtained by

frying the meat in a little dripping or butter

before pouring on the water ; but the present

fashion is to have clear soups pale in colour.

Meat boilings may be used instead of water

for making this stock, and any uncooked chicken

bones would improve the flavour. Do not

throw away the meat and vegetables left after

straining, but put them on again with same

quantity of water as before, and boil again

for Second Stock,

FIRST STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS

Ingredients -

3 lbs. Knuckle of Veal or

2 lbs. Knuckle of Veal and

1 lb. Neck of Mutton.

3 quarts Cold Water.

J Carrot.

i Turnip.

1 Onion.

12 White Peppercorns.

1 stick of Celery, or J tea-

spoonful Celery Seed.

6 or 8 Cloves.

J tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs

or a small sprig of Thyme,

Marjoram, and Basil.

1 blade of Mace.

2 Bay Leaves.

and removo all marrow from the bone. Take

1 dessert-spoonful Salt.

Method. - Make in the same way as first

stock for brown soup (see above), but use

fewer vegetables, as they tend to discolour the

stock. Rabbit or chicken may be used instead

of, or along with, the veal. Any white meat

will do. A piece of lean ham or a small ham-

bone will improve the flavour.

A second stock may be taken from the meat

and bones.

SECOND STOCK

After first stock is made, the meat and vege-

tables should be put on again with the same

quantity of water and boiled as before.

It has not the same fresh flavour as first

stock, but it is most useful in the making of

sauces and gravies, and of many soups for

which very good stock is not required.

Second stock is generally a stifier jelly than

first, as more of the gelatine becomes extracted

from the bones.

Sometimes the meat and vegetables are fried

118

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

in a little dripping first. This gives the stock

a darker colour and a richer flavour.

FISH STOCK

or a sprig of Thyme, Mar-

joram, and Biisil.

A few Parsley Stalks.

1 dozen Peppercorns.

3 Cloves.

1 blade of Mace.

1 Bay Leaf.

1 dessert-spoonful Salt.

Ingredients-

2 lbs. of White Fish or Fish

Bones and Triroiuiugs.

2 quarts Cold Water.

1 small Carrot.

1 small Turnip.

1 Onion.

1 stick of Celerj' or J tea-

spoonful Celery Seed.

1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs

Method. - Any white fish or trimmings of

white fish, such as haddocks, cod, halibut,

plaice, flounder, ling, "&c., may be used for

fish stock. Fish such as mackerel, herring,

and salmon are of too oily a nature and too

strong in flavour. By fish trimmings is meant

the bones, heads, fins, and skins of fish. If a

light-coloured stock is wanted, avoid using too

much dark-coloured skin. Wetsh the fish or

trimmings thoroughly in cold water, and cut

them into small pieces. Put them into a fish-

kettle or large goblet with the water and salt.

Put the lid on the pan, and bring to the boil ;

then skim well, and simmer about fifteen

minutes before adding the vegetables. As more

scum rises remove it, or the stock will be

cloudy in appearance. Prepare the vegetables,

cut them rather small, and add them to the

stock with the herbs, celery seed, pepper-

corns, &c., tied in a small piece of miislin.

Simmer slowly from three to four hours, then

strain into a basin.

This stock may be used as a basis for all fish

soups and fish sauces.

A whiter stock may be obtained by using

half milk and half water, fewer vegetables, and

by straining after half-an-hour's slow simmering.

VEGETABLE STOCK

Ingredients -

2 Onions.

2 medium-sized Carrots.

1 medium-sized Tuniip.

2 sticks Celery.

2 quarts Water.

Salt.

8 oz. Lentils.

A sprig of Parsley.

" Thyme.

,, Marjoram.

12 Black Peppercorns.

1 blade Mace.

3 or 4 Cloves.

Method. - Prepare the vegetables and cut

them in pieces. Put them in a saucepan with

the water and seasoning, and boil all together

for two or three hours. More water must bo

added if the liquid becomes too much reduced.

Skim well, strain, and it is ready for use.

^ote. - Almost any kind of vegetable may

be used for making this stock, and the more

variety the better. The trimmings and even

the parings of vegetables can be utilised in

this way, only care must be taken to see that

they are thoroughly clean and fresh.

GENERAL STOCK- THE STOCK-POT

In every household where moat is used every

day a stock-pot sl\ould be in general use. A

regular stock-pot is inade of tiiined copper, tinned

iron, aluminium, or cast iron. In large houses

where much cooking is done it is better to havo

one fitted with a tap, which will permit of the

Stock-Pot.

liquid being drawn off when required without dis-

turbing the fat, which rises to the top. For small

households an ordinary tinned or silicated sauce-

pan will serve the purpose very well, or what is

known as a digester, which is made of cast iron

with a close-fitting hd. This latter is not ex-

pensive, but it has the disadvantage of being very

hea%'y. An earthenware casserole or marmite

is also to be recommended for small quantities

of stock ; it is very clean, and it is easy to keep

the coni^ents simmering at a gentle rate.

All scraps of meat, cooked or uncooked, bones

and pieces of vegetable, poultry giblets and

rinds of bacon, should be kept for making stock.

Earthenware Casserole.

Remains of gra^^ too should be saved for the

same purpose, although no tliickenod sauco

must be added, as it would cloud the stock.

Look over the scraps carefully and see that

they are all clean and free from taint. Break

up the bones, remove any fat from the meat,

and cut the vegetables in small pieces. Put

them into the stock-pot with cold water to cover

them, or the water in which meat or vegetables

(except potatoes or cabbage) have been cooked

may be used. Add a little salt, put on the lid,

and bring the contents slowly to the boil. Then

keep the stock slowly simmering at an even

temperature, taking off the lid from time to

GUIDE TO COOKERY

119

time in order to remove the scum. A few

washed and crushed egg-shells put into the

stock will help to clear it. One whole day's

cooking will be sufficient, and at night it must

be strained through a hair sieve into a basin

and allowed to cool. The stock-pot should be

thoroughly washed before it is used again.

Tlie bones and any pieces of meat of value

may be put on the next day with any fresh

scraps, but not the vegetables if they have been

boiled for long, because when the flavour of

these has been extracted they become worse

than useless, and only absorb the meaty

flavours.

Nothing must be added to a stock-pot Txnless

it is quite clean and contains some goodness.

Little bits must not be added at odd times, but

only when the stock-pot is put on for the day ;

all other pieces should be saved for the next

day's use.

Stock should always be made the day before

it is required, as by this means the fat can easily

be removed.

To Remove Fat from Stock. - Have in readiness

two iron spoons, a basin of boiling water, a

cloth, and a small basin or dish into which to

put the fat.

Heat the spoons in the boiling water, and

use first one and then the other to skim off the

fat. The spoons, being hot, melt the fat, and

make it much more easily removed.

When as much as possible has been taken off

with the spoons, dip the end of the cloth into

boiling water, and wipe the stock over with

this until quite free from grease. If the stock

is not a jelly, pieces of kitchen paper must

be passed over the t-^p of it instead of the

cloth.

Do not remove fat from stock or soup until it

is about to be used, as it keeps out the air and

helps to preserve it.

GLAZE

Glaze can either be bought by the oiince or

made at home from stock. Glaze, as a rule, costs

2d. per ounce, and this quantity will be sufficient

to glaze an ox-tongue or a fair-sized piece of meat.

Put the glaze into a small saucepan with sufficient

water or stock to cover it, and allow it to melt

slowly over the fire. Or put it into a jar with

a very little water or stock, and stand the jar in

a saucepan of boiling water until the glaze is

melted. It will then be ready for use.

Home-made glaze can be very easily procured

in houses where there are large quantities of

stock anil bones at disposal. Any good brown

stock can be used, and the second boilings from

meat and bones is almost preferable to freshly-

made stock, as it is more gelatinous. Free the

stock from all grease, and put at least one quart

into a saucepan. Allow tliis to boil quickly with

the lid off the pan until reduced to about half

a pint, skimming when necessary. Tlien strain

through a very fine strainer or piece of muslin,

and reduce again in a aimaller saucepan until

the glaze becomes as thick as treacle, when it

will be ready for use.

If not required at once, it should be poured

into a jar, and if a little melted lard is poured

over the surface the glaze will keep good for

weeks. In fact, this is a very good way of pre-

serving any surplus stock, as a little glaze is

useful at all times for enriching soups and sauces

as well as for coating meat, &c., and, diluted with

water, it will again take the form of stock.

To Glaze Meat. - Have the glaze prepared as

above and in a melted condition, but not too

hot. Use a small paint-brush or egg-brush, and

paint the meat all over with it in even straight

strokes. If one coating is not sufficient allow

the first one to cool, and brush the meat over

again as before. Meanwhile keep the glaze in

a melted state by putting the pan or jar con-

taining it in a saucepan half full of hot water.

Do not waste any glaze that is left, but pour

it carefully into a clean jar ready for future

use, and rinse the brush and saucepan with

boiling water, which pour into the stock-pot.

CLEAR SOUPS AND BROTHS

Clear Soups (Consommes). - The basis of these

soups is good brown stock, which is clarified

according to directions given on page 120.

While first stock is always to be preferred for

the purpose, it is quite possible to utilise good

second stock, only the soup thus obtained is

liable to be rather gelatinous in flavour and

somewhat lacking in that fresh meaty taste,

which is one of the chief characteristics of good

conso)7i7ne.

The different clear soups take their distinctive

name from the garnish that is added to them.

There may also be some variation in the meat

used for the stock - as in clear game, oxtail,

or txirtle soup, &c.

Clear soups are amongst the most expensive

soups to make, and at the same time they sire

the most generally used, especially if a dinner

consists of several courses, as they are hght

and strengthening without being rich and

satisfying.

A good consomme should be of a rich amber

colour, and this must be obtained without

the addition of caramel, which would spoil the

flavom*.

Broths. - A Broth differs from a clear soup in

that it is unclarified, and the meat with which

it is made is either served in the soup or lifted

out and served as a separate course.

There is usually a garnish of rice or barley

and cut-up vegetables, or the vegetables may

be cut in larger pieces and served as an ac-

companiment to the meat.

A broth is a very substantial soup and qviite

120

THE \VO]\IAN'S BOOK

unBuited as the prelude to a long dinner. It

forms almost a meal in itself and is excellent as

a luncheon dish, especinlly in cold weather or

for a nursery dinner. It is always acceptable

too to those who have been working in the open

air or engaged in sports. It is one of the niost

ecoaoroical forms of soup.

Clear Soup

(Fr. Consomm6)

Ingredients -

1 quart good Brown or First

Stock.

6 OS. lean Juicy Beef.

1 lump of Sugar.

1 white and shell of Egg.

Method - Carefully remove all fat from the

top of the stock, and put it into a clean lined

or copper saucepan. Wipe the beef with a

damp cloth, and shred it down finely with a

knife, or put it through the mincing macliine,

removing all fat and skin. Add this to the

stock with the white of the egg and the shell

well washed. Whisk these over the fire with a

wire whisk until the soup just comes to boiling

point. Then remove the whisk and let it boil

well up. Draw the pan to the side of the fire

where the soup will keep warm, but not siijamer,

and cover it over with a plate or saucepan lid.

Let it stand from ten to fifteen minutes. Tie a

clean cloth on to

a soup - stand or

the four legs of a

chair tm-ned up-

side down, letting

it fall slightly in

the middle so as

to form a bag.

Pour some boiling

water through the

cloth into a basin

to thoroughly heat

the cloth. Put a

clean diy basin

underneath, and

pour the soup

gently through the

cloth. The soup

will not be clear

the first time, as it

gets shaken with the straining, so change the

basin and pour the soup through again, repeating

this process until the soup runs through quite

clear. In reheating add a lump of sugar,

which makes the soup sparkle.

Notes. - The various consommes take their

names from the different garnishes that are

addr>d to this soup.

The following are a few of the many vsirleties : -

Consomme & la Brunoise. - A garnish of cooked

carrot, turnip, celery, leeks - cut in dice.

Consom.m4 A la Celestine. - With fine slu-eds of

savoury pancake.

For clearing soup.

Consomme d la Crecy. - Garnish of Httle balls

of glazed carrot.

Cori^omtni d'Orleans. - Garnish of small green

and wliite quenelles.

Consomme d la Florentine. - ^With cheese

quenelles.

Consomm4 A V Impiratrice. - Garnish of poached

eggs.

Consommi d la Jardinilre. - With mixed

vegetables cut in pretty shapes.

Consonwii Jerusalem. - Witii little balls of

cooked Jerusalem artichokes.

Consomme d la Julienne. - With different

vegetables cut in long thin strips.

Consomme aux Pdtes d'ltalie. - With Italian

paste in fancy shapes.

Consomme d la Printaniire. - With spring

vegetables and young green peas.

Consomme Royale, - With rounds or dice of

custard.

When the garnish is made of vegetables these

should be cooked separately and only added to

the soup at the last. Root vegetables should

be cooked in a little stock and seasoned with

salt and a pinch of sugar. The stock should

then be allowed to reduce to a glaze. Fine green

vegetables, such as green peas, asparagus points,

or French beans, should simply be steamed or

boiled carefully in a little water.

Various fancy cutters can be bought for cutting

vegetables in fancy shapes.

For quenelles use a small quantity of nicely

made quenelle meat, put it into a forcing-

bag and force out fancy shapes or small balls

on a greased tin, then poach in boiling stock or

water.

ItaUan paste or macaroni must also be cooked

and rinsed in cold water previous to adding it

to the consomme, otherwise it would destroy

the clearness of the soup. There are scores of

garnishes for clear soup besides those given

above ; in fact, new names are constantly being

invented, and a special event or a passing fashion

will furnish the occasion for a new name, which

in most cases means only a very small variation

in a well-known soup.

Chicken Broth

(Fr. Bouillon de Poulet)

1 table-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Pepper and salt.

Ingredients-

1 Chicken.

2 or 3 pints Cold Water.

1 table-spoonful Rice or

crushed Tapioca.

Method. - Draw and singe the chicken, and

make it very clean. The inferior part^ will do

quite well for making the broth. The breast

may be cut off and reserved for some other dish.

Cut the rest of the chicken into joints first, then

take all the meat from the bones and cut it into

small pieces. Chop the bones and wash any

part which does not look perfectly clean. Keep

GUIDE TO COOKERY

121

laack any soft fat, but use the skin. Wash the

neck well, and let it soak in cold water and salt

for some time to draw out the blood. Open the

gizzard and remove the bag of stones from the

inside, then wash it well, pulUng off all the fat

skin from the outside. Remove the gall-bag

very carefully from the liver, cutting it away

with a pair of scissors, and wash the liver well.

Also wash the heart and scald the feet, letting

them lie in boiling water for a short time, and

then scrape them well.

Take a clean lined saucepan, put into it the

meat, bones, skin, neck, Uver, gizzard, heart,

and feet. Add the salt and enough cold water

to well cover all ; the quantity depends upon

the size of the fowl used. Put the lid on the pan

and bring slowly to the boil, then skim several

times until the broth looks quite clear. Allow

the broth to simmer from four to five hours until

the goodness is well extracted from the bones, &c.,

skimming when necessary. Strain the broth

through a fine strainer or hair sieve, and let it

stand till cold. Then remove all fat from the

top of the broth, return to a saucepan, and

thicken according to taste. If rice is used, wash

it well and cook in the broth until tender. If

tapioca, bring the broth to the boil, sprinkle in

the tapioca, and cook for ten minutes, until

quite clear. Season to taste, and add the chopped

parsley last. If small pieces of chicken are liked

served in the soup, the best plan is to lift some

of the nice pieces out of the broth as soon as

they are cooked, but before all the goodness is

extracted, and reserve these for returning to the

broth just before serving. A more economical

broth can be made by using a piece of mutton

or veal along with the chicken.

Sometimes the chicken is kept whole and

served as a separate course ; in this case small

pieces of vegetable or thinly sliced leeks might

be cooked with it, and the rice or tapioca added

about half-an-hour before serving.

Note. - A more highly flavoured broth may

be made by cooking small pieces of vegetable

along with the chicken.

Cockle Leekie

An old cock, along with a plentiful supply of

leeks, is generally used for this soup, hence the

name. Make in the same way as chicken broth

(see above), allowing double the quantity of

water and rice and six or eight leeks.

Ingredients -

Hotch Potch

2 quarts Mutton Broth.

Equal quantities of young

Carrots, Turnips, and

Spring Onions.

1 Lettuce.

1 Cauliflower.

1 pint Green Peas.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Paraley.

1} lbs. Lamb or small Mutton

Cutlets.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Put the mutton broth or water in

"which some mutton has been boiled into a sauce-

pan, and bring it to the boil. Clean some young

carrots, turnips, and onions ; cut the carrots

and turnips into very small neat pieces, and the

onions into thin sUces. About one teacupful of

each will be required. Put them into the sauce-

pan with the broth, and boil quickly for half-an-

hoiir. Trim the chops neatly, removing most

of the fat ; add them next with the flower of

the cauliflower broken into small pieces, and

the lettuce finely shred. Simmer the soup

slowly for one hoiir longer, then add the peas,

and cook until they are soft. Add the parsley

last, and season with pepper and salt.

Mutton Broth

{Fr. Bouillon de Mouton)

Ingredients -

IJ lbs. Neck or Knuckle of (" 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped

Mutton. Parsley.

3 pints Cold Water. A small piece each of Carrot,

1 table-spoonful Rice or Turnip, Onion, and Celery.

Barley. I Pepper and salt.

Method. - Wipe the meat, and cut it awaj'^

from the bone and into small pieces, removing

any superfluous fat. Prepare the vegetables,

and cut them into small neat pieces. Put the

meat, bones, and water into a saucepan with a

little salt, put on the lid, and bring slowly to

the boil. Sldm well ; add the rice well washed,

or the barley washed and blanched, and the

prepared vegetables. Simmer from two to

tliree hours, or until the vegetables are well

cooked. Remove the bones, and any grease

from the top of the stock; add the parsley, pepper,

and more salt if necessary before serving.

Another way of making this broth is to keep

the meat whole and to serve it as a separate

course with a httle of the liquid broth strained

round it. The vegetable should then be added

in rather larger pieces and used as a garnish to

the meat. The broth itself may also be finished

differently. After the meat and vegetables

have been removed, switch it for a few minutes

with a wire wliisk, then beat up an egg in a

basin, pour it into the soup-tureen and pour

the soup slowly on to it. This makes a very

delicious soup.

Pot au Feu

Ingredients -

1 lbs. shin of Beef or shoulder

of Beef.

i quarts Cold Water.

2 oz. crashed Tapioca or

Sago.

2 Carrots.

1 Turnip.

1 Parsnip.

3 sticks of Celery.

3 Leeks.

A bunch of Herbs.

1 Cabbage.

20 Black Peppercorns.

6 Cloves.

1 small blade of Mace.

Salt.

Method. - Break up the bones, wipe the meat

with a damp cloth, and tie it into shape with a

piece of tape. Put them into a large saucepan

or earthenware casserole with the water, and

bring to the boil. Add one dessert-spoonful of

122

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Bait, and skim well. Tlien simmer very gently

for two hours. Meanwhile have all tho vegetables

carefully cleaned and prepared, and, with the

exception of the cabbage, cut them in moderate-

sized pieces and tie them in a piece of muslin.

When the meat has simmered the required time,

add the vegetables to the pan, with a bunch of

herbs and the spicos, also tied in a piece of

musUn. Simmer gently for two hours more.

Then add the cabbage, cleaned and trimmed,

cut in two, and tied together with string. Cook

again imtil the cabbage is tender from half to

three-quarters of an hour. Tlien lift out tho

meat on to a hot dish, undo the tape, garnish

with the vegetables, and pour some of the liquid

round as gravy. Serve the cabbage separately

in a vegetable dish, remo\'ing the string. Re-

move the herbs and spices from the stock in the

pan, sprinkle in the sago or tapioca, and cook

until transparent about fifteen minutes. Season

to taste, slvim well, and serve in soup-tureen.

Note. - Pot au Feu is the favourite dish in

many French households.

Spring Soup

{Fr. Potage Printaniere)

Make in the same way as Hotch Potch (p. 121),

omitting the meat.

Veal Broth

(Fr. Bouillon de Veau)

Make in the same way as Mutton Broth (p. 121).

THICKENED SOUPS

Thickened soups can be made of fish, meat,

or vegetables, and they generally have some

stock as their basis. The stock may be either

brown, white, fish, or vegetable, according to the

nature of the soup, or sometimes a mixture of

stock and milk, or milk and water is used.

Some starchy or farinaceous material, such

as flour, arrow-root, cornflour, tapioca, &c.,

generally supplies the thickening property, or,

in the case of the richer soups, a liaison or com-

bination of eggs and cream is used.

Portions of the substance of which the soup is

made are frequently served in it as in kidney

soup and ox-tail soup. Care must be taken

not to make those soups too tliick.

Cabbage Soup

Ingredients -

1 Cabbage.

1 small Onion or Ixsek.

1 quart Meat Boilings.

i pint Millc.

1 table-siKX)nful crushed

Tapioca.

Method. - Wash the cabbage well in cold

water, and remove the coarse outside leaves and

any hard pieces of stalk. Separate all the leaves.

I tea-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Some crofttons of Toasted

Bread.

White Pepper and Salt.

and let thorn soak in cold water and salt for

half-an-hoiu". Then drain the water away, and

slired the leaves finely. Put the shred cabbage

into a saucepan of fast-boiUng water, salted in

the proportion of one dessertspoonful to the

quart, boil quickly for five minutes, and then

drain. Slice the onion or leek very thinly, and

chop it finely, put it into a saucepan with the

cabbage and stock or meat boilings, and simmer

for twenty minutes. Add tho milk and crushed

tapioca, and cook for ten minutes longer, or

until the tapioca turns quite clear. Add the

parsley just before serving, and season to taste

with white pepper and salt. Put some small

croiitons of toasted bread into tho soup-tureen,

and pour the soup, boiUng hot, over them.

Calf's Tail Soup

(Fr. Potage de Queue de Veau)

Ingredients -

2 Tails.

3 pints White Stock,

i pint Milk.

IJ oz. Butter.

IJ oz. Flour.

A Bay Leaf.

Some Parsley Stalks.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

2 Yolks.

1 gill of Cream. .

J Carrot.

A small piece of Turnip.

1 Onion.

6 Cloves.

1 glass of Sherry.

1 oz. grated Parmesan.

Method. - Wash the tails, and cut them into

pieces about IJ inches long ; put them into a

saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover

them, bring to the boil, and pour the water away.

Rinse out the saucepan, and return the pieces

of tail to it with the stock, bring to the boil

again, and skim well. Add the vegetables all

carefully cleaned, and cut in small pieces, the

bay leaf, cloves, nutmeg, and parsley stalks.

Put the lid on the pan, and simmer slowly from

one and a half to two hours, or until the meat

wiU slip quite easily from the bones ; then strain

through a wire sieve into a basin, and remove

all fat from the stock. Melt the butter in a

saucepan, but do not brown it, add the flour,

and mix smoothly together with a wooden spoon ;

then pour on tho stock, stir over the fire until

boiling, and allow it to boil about five minutes.

Boat up the yolks of eggs in a basin with the

cream, add the sherry, and strain these into tho

soup, stirring all the time. Add the pieces of tail

and seasoning to taste, but do not boil again.

Put the grated cheese into tho soup -tureen, and

pour the boiling soup on to them.

Note. - The cheese may bo omitted.

Cauliflower and Lettuce Soup

(Fr. Potage de Choufleur et de Laitues)

Ingredients -

a large Cauliflower.

1 small Lettuce.

1 quart Meat Boilings or

Second White Stock.

1 oz. crushed Tapioca or

small Sago.

1 oz. Butter.

White Pepper .ind Salt.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped Parsley.

Method. - Use the wliito part only of the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

123

cauliflower. Cut it into small pieces, wash in

cold water. Then scald in fast-boiling water

for five minutes and drain.

Put the stock into a saucepan, and bring it to

the boil. Throw in the pieces of cauliflower, and

boil them until tender, about half-an-hour ; then

add the milk, the butter, and the lettuce cut in

fine short shreds. Sprinkle in the tapioca or

sago, and cook all together for ten minutes

longer, stirring frequently. Season to taste, and

add the parsley at the end.

Curry Soup (White)

{Fr. Potage au Cari (Blanche))

Ingredients -

IJ pints White Stock or

Meat Boilings.

1 table-spoonful Curry

Powder.

1 oz. Cornflour.

2 table-spoonfuls Cream .

1 yolk of Egg.

1 table-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

Squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Small pieces of Chicken or

Rabbit.

Boiled Rice.

Method. - ^Any light stock, or the water in

which a fowl, rabbit, or piece of veal has been

boiled, will do for this soup. Put the stock into

a saucepan, and bring it to the boil. Put the

curry powder and cornflour into a basin, add

the milk graduallj' to them, mixing with an iron

spoon until smooth. Add this to the stock, stir

until boiling, and simiuer for ten minutes. Then

draw the pan to the side of the fire, and strain

in the cream and yolk of egg mixed together.

Season to taste, and sprinkle in the parsley. If

possible, add smie small pieces of cliicken or

rabbit. Stir the soup over the fire until almost

boiling. Do not boil, or the yolk of egg will

curdle. Squeeze in the lemon juice, and pour

the soup into a hot soup-tureen. Serve with

plain boiled rice, on a separate dish (see p. 157).

Lettuce Soup

{Fr. Potage de Laitues)

Ingredients -

2 large Lettuces

i lb. Spinach.

2 or 4 Spring Onions.

3 oz. Butter.

2 pints light Stock.

1 or 2 yolks of Eggs,

i gill of Cream.

Method. - Wash the vegetables, drain and cut

in fine shreds. Put them into a stewpan with

the butter and seasoning, and cook them over

the fire for ton minutes, stirring all the time with

a wooden spoon. Add the stock, wliicb mny

either be vegetable stock or boilings from meat,

and simmer from three-quarters of an hour to

one hour. Draw the saucepan to the side of

the fire and add the yolk of egg and cream

mixed together. The soup must not boil

again.

Mock Turtle Soup

{Fr. Potage do Faasse Tortue)

Ingredients -

J Calf's Head.

J quart Cold Water.

1 glass Sheery.

} tea-spoonful Celery Seed.

2 Bay Leaves.

1 blade of Mace.

A sprig of Parsley, Tliyme,

and Marjoram.

Pepper and Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Force-meat Balls.

4 Carrot.

i Turnip.

1 Onion.

2 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Cornflour.

6 Cloves.

3 oz. lean Ham or a Ham-

bone.

Method. - ^Wash the head well, removing the

brains, which are not used in the soup, but may

be kept for some small savoury dish. Take

away all the gristle from the nostrils, and let the

head soak in cold water, with a handful of salt

in it, for half-an-hour at least. Then blanch it

- that is, put it into a saucepan with cold water

to cover it - bring to the boil, pour the water

away, and wash the head again in cold water.

Cut all the flesh from the bones, and tie it in a

piece of muslin. Put it with the bones and

water into a large saucepan, and let it simmer

gently, skimming occasionally, for three and a

half hours. Then strain the stock through a hair

sieve, and let it stand till cold. Melt the

butter in a saucepan, have the vegetables and

ham cut into small pieces, and fry them in it

with the herbs and spices. Let them get a nice

hght brown colour, and stir well to keep them

from burning. Then add the cornfloiir, and

mix it smoothly in. Remove all fat from the

top of the stock, pour it into the saucepan, and

stir until boiling. Add pepper and salt to taste,

and simmer slowly for one and a half hours.

Remove any scum that may rise. Strain through

a hair sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan,

and return the soup to it to reheat. Add the

wine and lemon juice, and serve in it force-meat

balls (see p. 179) and small pieces of the heeid

cut into dice.

Oyster Soup

{Fr. Potage aus Huitres)

Ingredients -

2 doz. fresh Oysters or 3 doz

tinned Oysters.

2 pints White or Fish Stock

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

A pinch of Cayenne.

1 gill of Cream.

2 yolks of Eggs.

1 tea-spoonful

Essence.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice,

White Pepper and Salt.

Anchovy

Method. - Put the oysters into a small sauce-

pan with their outi liqiior, bring them almost to

the boil, then strain, saving the hquor. Beard

the oysters (that is, remove the piece like a

fringe that encircles them), cut them in two, and

put them aside for serving in the soup. Put the

beards into a saucepan with the liquor and the

stock, and let them simmer for half-an-hour, to

extract all the flavour from them. If the stock

is not previously well flavotired, small pieces of

124

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the different flavouring vegetables should also

be cooked in it. Strain tlirough a fine hair

sieve or piece of muslin, and rinse out the sauce-

pan ready for use. First melt in it the butter,

being careful it does not brown, add to it the

flour, and mix together until quite smooth.

Pour on the stock, and stir constantly over tho

fire until boiling. Skim if necessary. Season

to taste with a little white pepper, salt, ancho\^

essence, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up the

yolks of eggs in a basin with the cream, draw the

pan with the soup in it to one side of the fire,

and strain them into it, stirring all the time.

Reheat, but do not boil again. Add a squeeze

of lemon juice. Put the oysters into the soup-

tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve.

Sorrel Soup

(Fr. Potage d'Oseille)

Ingredients -

J lb. Sorrel.

2 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Totato Flour.

IJ pints ^^'hite Stock.

Method. - Wash the sorrel very carefully, and

then shake it as dry as possible in a sieve or

colander. Cut it into fine shreds with a sharp

knife. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and, when

hot, put in the sorrel, and cook it over the fire

for ten minutes. Then add the potato flour,

and stir for a few minutes with a wooden spoon,

being careful the contents of the pan do not

discolour. Add the white stock, and stir until

boiling. Put the Md on the pan, and simmer

slowly for twenty minutes. Add the milk or

cream, and season to ttiste with white pepper

and salt. Remove the crust from a French roll,

and dry it in the oven. Then break it in pieces,

and put them in a soup-txireen. Pour the soup

boiling hot over them, and serve.

Turtle Soup

Potage h la Tortue)

i pint Milk or 1 gill Cream.

The crust of French Roll.

Pepper and Salt.

{Fr.

Ingredients -

\\ lbs. Knuckle of Veal.

ij lbs. Shin of Beef.

J lb. sun-dried Turtle.

4 quarts Cold Water.

1 small Carrot.

} Turnip.

1 Onion.

J lb. le.in Ham.

2 oz. Butter.

24 Black Peppercorns.

Method. - Buy the turtle four or five days

before tho soup is wanted. Wash it well in

warm water, and soak it in water for three

days at least, until it is well swollen and com-

paratively soft. Change the water every twelve

hours. On the fourth day commence to make

the soup. Wipe the beef and the veal, and cut

them both into small pieces, removing as much

8 Cloves.

1 blade of Mace.

2 Bay Leaves.

A sprig of Parsley, Thyme,

and Marjoram.

Pepper and Salt.

1 glass Madeira.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

2 oz. Cornflour.

fat as possible. Put the pieces into a large

saucepan with the cold water, the ham cut in

small pieces, and the turtle tied in a piece of

muslin. Bring slowly to the boil, and skim well.

Add all the vegetables, cut in small pieces, and

the herbs, and simmer the soup slowly for

twelve hours, removing any scum as it rises.

Strain through a hair sieve and lot it stand till

cold. Remove carefully all fat from the top

of the stock, and cut the turtle into neat square

pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and let

it get slightly brown, then add the cornflour

and mix until smooth, pom* on the stock, and

stir luitil boiling. Boil for a few minutes, and

skim if necessary. Season with pepper and

salt, and add the wine and lemon-juice. Serve

the pieces of turtle and small force-meat balls

in the soup (see p. 179).

PUREES

A pur^ is perhaps the simplest and most

economical kind of soup. It differs from other

thickened soups in that its thickening is effected

by rubbing the meat, fish, vegetable, or other

ingredients of which it is composed through a

sieve and serving them in the soup.

A puree can be made of almost any vegetable,

whether fresh or dried, and of meat, game, fish,

and some farinaceous substances such as rice,

barley, macaroni, &c. Either stock, milk, or

water, or a mixture of all three will supply the

liqmd portion.

Tlie ingredients of which a puree is composed

must always be simmered slowly until qxiite

soft and pulpy in order to facilitate the sieving

process. Although a pur6e is never so smooth

and soft as when rubbed tlirough a hair sieve,

when time and labour have to be considered a

wire one must suflice. In all cases it will be

found ad\'isable to rub the mixture tlii'ough a

wire sieve before putting it tlirough the hair

sieve, as the use of the latter alone is a most

laborious undertaking. Always when sieving

have two spoons in readiness, one to do the

rubbing through and the other for scraping the

sieve imderneath. Stand the sieve with the

narrow rim uppermost within a basin. The

basin must not be so small that the sieve

covers tho rim. Pour a small quantity of the

mixture on the top of the sieve and commence

the rubbing through. Put two fingers on the

bowl of the spoon and rub through with the

edge. Moisten the mixture with some of the

liquid part of the soup when necessary, and

from time to time remove what adheres to the

lower side of the sieve with the second spoon.

What comes through is called the pur6e.

As little as possible should be left on the top

of the sieve when the work is finished, and upon

the patient rubbing through the success of the

soup will depend.

In the case of a meat pur^e it will simplify

GUIDE TO COOKERY

125

the work if the meat is pounded in a mortar

with a little of the Uquid before sieving.

A puree can always be rendered richer by the

addition of some cream and one or two yolks

of eggs just before bringing it to table.

A p\ir6e should be of the consistency of thick

cream, and is usually served with croutons of

bread, or with " pulled " bread served on a

separate dish.

Croutons of Bread. - Use bread not less than

one day old, and rather close in texture. Cut

the bread into sUces one quarter of an inch

thick, take off the crust, then cut it into strips

one quarter of an inch wide, and then across

into even squares. Or the sUced bread may be

cut into fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter.

These may either be fried in boiling fat, in

clarified butter in a frying-pan, or soaked in

stock and browned on a greased tin in the

oven. Drain well on kitchen paper before

serving. Tliey should be crisp, dry, and of an

amber colour.

Croutons can also be made of scraps of pastry

cut in fancy shapes, and either baked or fried.

TTiey may, if liked, be sprinkled with a little

grated Parmesan.

Pulled Bread. - This may be either bought

ready or prepared in the following way : take

the inside crumb of a French roll, pull it with

the fingers (it must never be cut) into small

pieces, and brown these in a slow oven until of

a nice amber colour.

PUREES MADE FROM FRESH VEGETABLES

ArticLake Soup

(Fr. Puree d'Artichauts)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Jerusalem Artichokes.

1 oc. lean Ham.

1 stick Celery or J tea-spoon

ful Celery Seed,

1 oz. Butter.

1 Bay Leaf.

Some Parsley Stalks.

Method. - First wash and brush the artichokes,

then put them into a basin with clean cold water

and peel them carefully, changing the water as

soon as it becomes dirty. Throw the artichokes

as they are peeled into another basin of clean

cold water, with a little vmegar or lemon-juioe

in it, in order to preserve their colour. Skin

and slice the onion tliinly, wash and brush the

celery and cut it into shi-eds, and cut the ham

into small pieces. JVIelt the butter in a lined or

enamelled saucepan, add the axtichokes, drained

and cut in thin slices, also the onion, ham, celery,

bay leaf, and pai-sley stalks. Put the lid on

the pan and cook over the fire for about ten

minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent

the contents biu-ning. Tlien add the stock,

white pepper and salt, and let all simmer gently

1 small Onion.

IJ pints White Second Stock.

i pint Milk and 1 tea-spoon-

ful Flour or 1 gill of Cream

and 2 yolks of Eggs.

White Pepper and Salt.

from one to one and a half hours, or until the

artichokes are quite soft. Rub the soup through

a hair sieve into a basin, then rinse out the

saucepan and return the soup to it to reheat.

Put the floiu- into a basin, and add the milk

gradually to it, mixing until qmte smooth. Add

this to the soup, and stir over the fire tmtil

boiling. Continue boiling for a few minutes,

and add more seasoning if necessary.

If cream and yolks of eggs are used for thicken-

ing, omit the flour and milk. Beat the yolks of

eggs and cream together in a basin, strain them

into the soup, stirring all the time, and do not

boil the soup again or it will curdle.

Note. - Tliis soup should be white in colour.

If it turns green, the ai'tichokes have not been

carefully prepared, or it has been made in an

iron saucepan.

Carrot Soup and Turnip Soup

(Fr. Puree k la Cr6cy et Puree de Navets)

Both are made in the same way as Potato

Soup (p. 126), substituting 1 lb. carrots or 1 lb.

turnips for the potatoes. The addition of a little

cream wiU be an improvement to these soups.

Celery Soup

(Fr. Puree de Celeri)

Make in the same way as Artichoke Soup

(see above), substituting a head of celery for the

artichokes. The celery must bo very carefully

washed and brushed and then cut in fine shreds.

Onion Soup (White)

(Fr. Puree aux Oignons)

Ingredients -

3 Spanish Onions.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

1 quart Meat Boilings.

1 Bay Leaf.

^Vhite Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Skin and scald the onions in boiling

water for a few minutes. Slice them down as

tliinly as possible from the top to the root. Melt

the butter in a saucepan, put into it the onions,

bay leaf, blade of mace, and parsley stalks ;

put the lid on the pan, and cook for ten minutes

without browning. Then pour on the meat

boilings, simmer until quite soft, about one

and a half hours, and rub through a fine wire

or hair sieve. Rinse out the saucepan, and

return the soup to it. Break the floiu* gradually

with the milk, add this to the soup, and stir over

the fire until boiling. Boil five minutes, and

season to taste. A Uttle cream is an improve-

ment to this soup, and grated Parmesan cheese

may be served with it.

Onion Soup (Brown)

Make according to preceding recipe, but brown

the butter or dripping and then brown the

1 blade of Mace.

1 oz. Floui' or Rice Flour.

I pint Milk.

A few Parsley Stalks.

126

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

li pints Stock

Boilings,

i pint Milk.

repper and Salt

A few Parsley Stalks.

onions in it, being careful they do not blacken

or the soup will have a disagreeable taste. Omit

the milk, but add the flour broken with a Uttlo

stock.

Note. - 1 dessert-spoonful of sheiry may be

added.

Parsnip Soup

{Fr. Puree de Panais)

Make according to directions given for

Potato Soup (see below), using 1 lb. parsnips

instead of the potatoes.

Potato Soup

(Fr. Puree de Pommes de Terre)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Totatoes. \\ pints Stock or Meat

1 stick of Celery or i tea-

spoonfiil Celery Seed.

1 Onion or 2 Leeks.

1 Bay Leaf.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

Method. - Wash and brush the potatoes, peel

them very thinly, removing any black specks,

and then weigh them. Cut them down into

very thin slices, and let them he in cold water

for a short time. Wash and shred the celery,

and skin and slice the onion thinly. Melt the

butter or dripping in a saucepan, strain the

potatoes, and add them to it with the prepared

onion and celery. Put the lid on the pan, and

cook over the fire for a few minutes without

burning. Then pour on the stock or meat

boilings, and simmer slowly from one to one

and a half hours, or until the potatoes are quite

soft. The soup must be stirred frequently, as

it is most liable to burn, and should it become

too thick, more water must be added. Then

rub as much as possible through a fine wire or

hair sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan,

and return the soup to it to reheat. Add the

milk and more seasoning if necessary.

Note. - Any remains of cold cooked potato

may be used up in this soup, and a small ham-

bone cooked in it is an improvement.

The addition of two or three tomatoes will

make a nice change from time to time.

Tomato Soup

(Fr. Puree do Tomates)

Ingredients -

1 tin or 10 or 12 fresh

Tomatoes.

3 pints Second Stock or

Liquor from the tin.

1 Onion.

1 Carrot.

i Turnip.

1 oz. Butter.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

12 Peppercorns.

6 Cloves.

1 lump of Sugar.

1 oz. Rice Flour or crushed

Tapioca.

1 oz. lean Ham or a small

Ham-bone.

1 blade of Mace.

A sprig of Parsley, Tliyme,

and Marjoram.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Melt tho butter in a saucepan, and

put into it the ham cut in small pieces, the onion

thinly sliced, and tho herbs tied together in a

bunch. Fry these for a few minutes over the

fire, letting them colour sUghtly. Then add

the tomatoes, cutting them into slices if they

are fresh, the other vegetables cut into small

pieces, and the rice flour, cloves, peppercorns,

maco, and salt. Mix these well for a few

minutes, and add tlio stock or liquor from tho

tin. Allow the soup to simmer slowly from

three to four hours, until tho vegetables are

thoroughly soft, and then rub through a fine

wire or hair sieve into a basin. Rinse out tho

saucepan, and return the soup to it to reheat ;

add the sugar, lemon juice, and more salt if

necessary. A little milk or cream may also

be added.

Vegetable Marrow Soup

(Fr. Puree de Courge)

Follow the directions given for Potato Soup

(see above), substituting vegetable marrow for

the potatoes. Wash the marrow, then peel,

weigh, and cut it down into tlain sUces, but do

not remove the seeds.

PUREES WITH NUTS

Almond Soup

(Fr. Puree d'Amandes)

Use the recipe given for Chestnut Soup (see

below), allowing J lb. sweet almonds, weighed

after peeUng, instead of the chestnuts, and add

half a teacupful of bread-crumbs. Blanch and

chop the almonds and pound them in a mortar

with a few drops of water. Put thorn into a

saucepan with the bread-crumbs, stock, &c., and

proceed as in the last recipe.

White Chestnut Soup

(Fr. Puree de Marrons)

Ingredients -

j lb. Chestnuts, weighed

after peeling.

1 quart White Stock.

1 gill of Cream or J pint

Milk.

1 oz. Butter.

A small blade of Mace.

White Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

A few Parsley Stalks.

Method. - Weish the chestnuts and cut a small

piece off the end of each. Throw them into hot

water, and boil for ten minutes. Then skin them

and put them into a lined saucepan with the

stock and a small blade of mace. Simmer for

one hour or more until tho chestnuts are quite

tender ; then rub them through a fine wire or

hair sieve, using the stock to moisten them.

Rinse out the saucepan, and return the chestnut

pur6e and stock to it. Add tho milk or cream,

and boil for ten minutes until quite smooth.

Add white pepper, salt to taste, and a pinch of

GUIDE TO COOKERY

127

cayenne. If too thick, more milk or stock naust

be added.

PUB^S MADE FROM DRIED SEEDS

Pea Soup

[Fr. Puree de Pois)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Split Peas.

2 pints Cold Water or Meat

Boilings.

1 oz. Dripping or Butter.

1 Onion.

A few Parsley Stalks.

A small piece of Carrot and

Turnip.

2 sticks of Celery or J tea-

spoonful Celery Seed.

A pinch of Sugar.

1 Bay Leaf.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Put the peas into a basin, wash

them well in cold water, and remove any dis-

coloured ones that float on the surface. Then

pour over them the two pints of cold water

or meat boilings, cover the basin with a plate,

and let them soak ovenoight. Next day strain

off the water and keep it for making the soup

with. (A certain amount of noiu-ishment is

always drawn out of the peas by soaking, and it

would be wasteful to throw this water away.)

Prepare the vegetables and cut them into thin

slices. Melt the dripping or butter in a saucepan,

add to it the peas and sUced vegetables, and stir

them over the fire until the fat is thoroughly

absorbed. This is called sweating the vege-

tables ; it softens them, and makes them cook

more easily. Next pour on the liquid in which

the peas were soaked, stir well for a few minutes,

and let it come to boiling point. Remove any

scum that may rise, add pepper and salt to taste,

and if using celeiy seed, add it now tied in a

small piece of muslin. Allow the soup to simmer

slowly from two to three hours, or until the peas

are quite soft and pulpy. Stir the soup occa-

sionally to prevent it sticking to the foot of the

pan and burning, and if it should become too

thick whilst cooking, add a little more water.

When well cooked, rub through a wire or hair

sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan, and

return the soup to it to reheat. Add more

seasoning if necessary, and serve with dried mint

finely powdered and sifted.

Note. - ^A Uttle boiled milk or cream is some-

times added at the end ; it has a softening effect.

The water in which a piece of ham, pickled pork,

or salt beef has been boiled, if not too salt, does

very well for making this soup. One tea-spoonful

of curry powder may be added.

Both Lentil and Haricot Bean Soup {Fr. Puree

de Lentilles et Pur^e de Haricots Blancs) can be

made in the same way as above. For the

Lentil Soup either the red Egyptian or the

green German Lentils can be used, and they

will take rather a shorter time to cook than

split peas. In making Haricot Bean Soup it is

as w^ell to omit the carrot and turnip if a very

white soup is wanted, and a little boiled milk

added at the end is always an improvement.

Some Parsley Stalks.

A Bay Leaf.

1 oz. Flour.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

1 blade of Mace.

PUREES OF FISH

Fish Soup

(Fr. Puree de Poisson)

Ingredients -

2 lbs. White Fish or Fish

Trimmings.

3 pints Cold Water.

2 Leeks.

A small piece of Carrot.

A small piece of Turnip.

^ATiite Pepper and Salt.

1 stick of Celery.

Method. - Any white fish can be used for tliis

soup, such as whiting, flounder, haddock, or

cod, trimmings of fish or a cod's head. Wash

the fish well and cut it into small pieces ; put

it into a saucepan -with the cold water (which

should cover it), add a little salt, and bring to

the boil. Skim well and boil for about ten

minutes. Then remove a few nice pieces of

fish, free from skin and bone, and reserve them

for serving in the soup. Prepare the vege-

tables and cut them into small thin pieces,

add them to the soup with the bay leaf, parsley

stalks, and blade of mace. Let all simmer

slowly from one and a half to two hours. If

a cod's head is used, longer time will be required.

When well cooked, strain through a fine wire

sieve into a basin, rubbing through a Uttle of

the fish and vegetables, being careful that

none of the bones are rubbed through. Rinse

out the saucepan and melt the butter or dripping

in it, then add the flour and mix smoothly

together. Pour in the soup and stir until boil-

ing ; add the milk, chopped parsley, and small

pieces of fish, and bring to the boil again.

Season to taste with white pepper and salt.

The yolk of an egg may be put into the soup-

tureen and the soup poured boiling hot on to

it, stirring all the time ; or it may be served

with small egg balls in it.

PUREES OF MEAT

Chicken Soup

{Fr. Potage de Volaille)

Ingredients -

1 Chicken.

2 quarts Cold Water.

I Carrot.

A small piece of Turnip.

1 blade of JIacc.

1 oz. Butter.

J oz. Flour.

1 stick Celery.

1 Onion or Leek.

1 gill of Cream, or } pint

Boiled Milk.

Pepper and Salt.

1 Bay Leaf.

A few Parsley Stalks.

1 oz. lean Ham or a small

Ham-bone.

Method. - Pi'epare the cliicken in the same

way as for chicken broth, p. 120, and, if wished,

keep back the breast for serving in some other

way. Put all together into a clean lined pan,

with enough cold water to well cover - about

two quarts ; add a little salt, and bring slowly

128

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

to the boil. Then skim well and add the vege-

tables, cleaned and cut in small pieces, the bay

leaf, blade of maco, and peirsley stalks. Simmer

slowlj' from five to six hours until reduced about

one-third, remo\nng any scum that may rise.

When cooked sufficiently, strain tlirough a hair

sieve into a basin, and let it stand till cold.

Remove all fat from tlio top of the stock. Take

some of the pieces of meat from tho chicken,

pound them well in a mortar, then rub tlirough

a wire sieve, and moisten wth some of the

hquid whilst rubbing through. Melt the butter

in the saucepan, add the flour and mix until

smooth. Then pour in the soup and the pur6e,

bring to the boil and pour in the cream or boiled

milk. Sesison to taste with white pepper and

sjJt. A yolk of egg may also be used if liked.

Put the yolk in the soup -tureen and pour the

hot soup on to it, stirring all tho time.

Notes. - Tlie breast of the chicken may be

cooked in the soup, and then lifted out, cut into

small pieces, and served in the soup when ready.

The soup may be garnished with some cooked

green peas, a little finely chopped parsley or

chervil.

Rabbit Soup (Fr. Puree de Lapin) can be made

in the same way, but the rabbit should be

sdlowed to he in salt and water for an hour

before it is cut up, to remove the strong taste.

Some nice little pieces of rabbit may bo lifted

out after they have cooked for about aji hour

and reserved for serving in the soup.

Hare Soup

{Fr. Potage de Lievre)

Ingredients -

1 Hare.

1 lb. lean Beef,

} lb. lean Ham.

2 oz. Butter or Dripping.

2 Onions.

A small piece of Turnip.

2 sticks of Celery.

A bunch of Herbs.

1 J oz. Flour or 2 oz. Oatmeal

24 Black Peppercorns.

6 or 8 Cloves.

1 blade of Mace.

1 Bay Leaf.

2 quarts Cold Water.

1 glass Port Wine.

I tea-spoonful Jamaica

Pepper.

Salt.

Method. - Skin and paunch the hare, saving

the liver and as much of the blood as possible.

Then wash the hare, dry it, and cut it into small

pieces. Wipe the beef with a damp cloth, and

cut it and the ham into small pieces. Melt the

butter or dripping in a saucepan, put in the

pieces of hare, meat, ham, and onions thinly

sUced, and fry all those over the fire from ten

to fifteen minutes ; then pour in the water,

bring to the boil, and skim well. Add the other

vegetables cut into small pieces, the herbs,

peppercorns, cloves, mace, bay leaf, and a little

salt. Let all simmer gently from four to five

hours ; then strain through a hair sieve into a

basin, and let the soup stand until cold. Remove

the fat carefully from the top of tho stock, put

some of the meat from the hare into a mortar,

pound it well with a little of tho stock, and rub

it through a fine wire sieve. Return the soup

to the saucepan with the sieved hare. Break

the flour with a httle of the stock, add it to the

soup, and stir until boiling. Boil for a few

minutes, adding Jamaica pepper, black pepper,

and more salt if necessary. If oatmeal is used

for thickening, put it into a basin with half a

pint of cold water ; lot it stand for half-an-hour,

stirring occasionally, and then strain off the

hquid part into the soup, keeping back the

oatmeal ; bring to the boil, and boil for a few

minutes. The oatmeal gives the soup a soft,

velvety taste. The wine and blood should be

added to the soup just before serving, but do

not boil again, or the soup %vill curdle.

Serve small force-meat balls (see p. 179), to

which the liver of the hare cooked and chopped

has been added, in this soup.

PUREES OF FARINACEOUS FOODS

Cream of Barley Soup

(Fr. Potage a la Creme d'Orge)

Ingredients -

1 quart of Chicken or Veal

Boilings.

2 oz. fine Pearl Barley.

1 oz. Butter.

1 gill of Cream or i pint

Boiled Milk.

Pepper and Salt.

1 Onion.

J inch Cinnamon Stick.

1 Bay Leaf.

A few Parsley Stalks.

Method. - Use the fine barley for this soup.

Wash it well in cold water. Put it into a sauce-

pan with cold water to cover, bring to the boil,

strain and rinse again with cold water. This is

to blanch or whiten the barley. Rinse out the

saucepan, and return the barley to it with the

meat boiUngs, or thin white stock. (The water

in which a fowl, rabbit, or piece of veal has been

boiled can be used for this soup.) Add the

onion, thinly shced, the bay leaf, cinnamon, and

parsley stalks. Simmer for two hours, or until

tho barley is quite cooked. Then rub as much

as possible through a tammy cloth or hair sieve.

Return this piu-^e to the pan with the butter,

and add the cream or boiled milk. Sea.^un to

taste, and stir over the fire until boiling.

A few cooked green peeis or asparagus points

may be added.

Cream of Rice Soup

{Fr. Potage au Riz)

Follow the same dii-ections as for Barley Soup,

using half teacupful of Patna rice instead of

the barley. The rice will not require to be

blanched, and one hour will be sufficient to

cook it.

Macaroni Soup

{Fr. Potage Macaroni)

Follow the same directions as above, allowing

2 oz. macaroni insteewi of the barley. The

macaroni will not require to be blanched, and one

and a half hours will be sufficient to cook it.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

129

PUREES OF GREEN VEGETABLES

Asparagus Soup

(Fr. Puree d'Asperges)

Ingredients -

50 beads of Asparagus. 1 Bay Leaf.

1 quart White Stock. Pepper and Salt.

1 gill of Cream. 1 oz. lean Ham.

2 yolks of Eggs. A few Parsley Stalks.

1 oz. Butter.

Method. - Wash the asparagus in cold water,

scraping the stalk ends lightly with a knife.

Cut off the points, reserving them for serving

in the soup, and sUce down the remainder into

pieces of about an inch in length. Melt the

butter in a saucepan, and add the asparagus to

it with the ham cut in small pieces, the bay leaf

and parsley stalks. Put the U'd on the pan,

and shake it gently over the fire for a few

minutes until the butter is absorbed. Then

pour in the btock, and add a little white pepper

and salt. Simmer slowly from one and a half

to two hours, or until the asparagus is quite

tender. Then rub as much as possible through

a hair sieve. Return the soup to the pan to

reheat. Beat up the yolks of eggs and cream

in a basin with a fork ; draw the pan with the

soup to the side of the fire, and strain them in,

Stirling all the time. Tlien stir carefully over

the fire until the yolks thicken, on no account

letting the soup boU. Have the asparagus

points cooked separately. (Steam them gently

about half-an-hour or until tender.) Put them

in the soup -tureen and pour the hot soup over

them. The soup should be of a delicate green

colour, and if necessarj a little spinach green

must be added- care being taken not to overdo

the colouring.

Note. - The yolks of eggs may be omitted

and cream only used, or the cream omitted and

a little milk added to the yolks.

Brussels Sprout Soup

{Fr. Puree de Choux de Bruxelles)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Brussels Sprouts. i 1 gill of Cream or } pint

1 quart White Stock. I Boiled Milk.

AS'hite Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Trim the Brussels sprouts, cutting

away any decayed or discokurod leave?. Wash

well, and let them steep in a basin of cold water,

with a few drops of vinegar, for half-an-hoiu*.

Then drain and tlurow into a saucepan of fast-

boiling water (salted in the proportion of one

dessert-spoonful to one quart), adding also a

small piece of washing soda. Boil quickly with

the lid off the pan from fifteen to twenty minutes,

removing any scum that may rise. Do not

overcook the sprouts, or their colour will be

destroyed. When ready, drain and rub through

a fine wire bieve. Put the stock into a sauce-

pan, add the Brussels sprout puree, cream or

milk and seasoning, and make quite hot, but

do not boil again.

Green Pea Soup

{Fr. Piiree de Petits Pois)

Ingredients -

1 pint Shelled Peas.

1 handful of Pea SheUs.

1 small Lettuce.

A few sprigs of Parsley.

White Pepper and Salt.

3 Spring Onions.

A sprig of Mint.

1 lump of Sugar.

IJ pints Second White Stock.

1 gill of Cream.

Method. - Wash the shells well, and cut them

into pieces. Wash and shred the lettuce, and

wash and sUce thinly the onions. Put all these

into a saucepan of boiHng water salted in the

proportion of one dessert-spoonful to a quart,

salted ; boil for ten minutes, and strain off the

water. Put the stock into a saucepan, and

bring it to the boil. Add the scalded vegetables,

the peas, mint, and parsley, and boil all together

until tender, about half-an-hour. Then rub

through a hair sieve into a basin. Rinse out

the saucepan, and retmrn the soup to it to reheat.

Add tlie cream, and season to taste with white

pepper and salt.

Note. - A few leaves of spinach may be added

to this soup, and sometimes a few of the peas

are cooked sepeirately, and served whole in the

soup.

Water-cress Soup

{Fr. Potage au Cresson)

Ingredients -

2 bunches Water-cress.

li smaU bunch Spring

Onions.

i pint Haricot Beans.

White Pepper and Salt.

1 quart Cold Water.

li oz. Butter.

1 table-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

1 or 2 table-spoonfuls Cream.

Method. - Wash the beans in cold water. Put

them into a basin with one quart of cold water,

cover with a plate, and let them soak overnight.

Next day put them into a saucepan with the

water in which they were soaked, and boil until

quite soft, about three hours. Then rub through

a fine wire or hair sieve into a basin, and make

up this puree to one quart \\-ith boihng water.

Wash and pick the wat€r-cress,carefully remo\'ing

the stalks, and shred it finely with a knife.

Wash the onions, remo\ang the roots and most

of the green part. SUce them also thinly.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, put the greens

into it, and stew them gently for about ten

minutes, until they are just beginning to change

colour. Then pour on the haricot pur^, and

sinuner from fifteen to twenty minutes. Add

the cream, pepper, salt, and the chopped parsley

just before serving.

Note. - Lettuce, sorrel, endive, or any green

vegetable may be shredded and used in the

making of this soup.

130

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

FISH AND FISH ENTRIES

How to Clean Fish. - The thorough cleansing |

of 6sh is essential to its wholesomeness. When

it is bought from a fishmonger it is generally so

far prepared, but if caught or obtained from a

fisherman it will require very careful cleaning

before it can be cooked. Some fish, such as

haddock, whiting, or cod, require to be cut

open before they can bo emptied, while others,

such as sole or plaice, can have the entrails drawn

out tlirough the gills. Be careful not to dis-

figure the fish, but clean it thoroughly, and see

that no blood or black skin is left inside. If

there is a roe tliis should be allowed to remain

if the fish is small, but if large it must be removed

and cooked separately. If the fish feels sUmy,

rub it well ■"-ith a Uttle salt. Scales should be

scraped off with a knife, scraping from the tail

upwards, and the fish well rinsed afterwards.

If the scales are very hard to remove, as is

sometimes the case with fresh-water fish, dip

the fish in boihng water for a moment. In

cutting off the fins, cut from the tail upwards

with a pair of scissors. The fins of turbot

and skate may be left on, as they are very

gelatinous and are considered a luxury. In

taking out the eyes, if the skin over them is

tough, cut it first with a pair of scissors, and

then the eye can easily be pulled out, or pushed

out from the inside. Fish that have a strong

muddy flavour should be soaked in salt and

water before being cooked.

General Rules for Cooking Fish

Boiling. - Boihng is best suited to large uncut

fish or to thick pieces of fish such as salmon,

hahbut, cod, Hng, hake, and turbot. This

method of cooking is not to be recommended

for small fish or for thin shces of fish. Fish

should never be skinned for boihng, and when

whole the head is left on ^vith the eyes taken out.

Turbot should be scored across on the black

side to prevent the white side cracking. All

fish, with the exception of salt fish, should be

put into water that is very hot, but not actually

boihng ; or it is better still if fish stock can bo

used instead of water. Salt the liquid in the

proportion of 1 oz. of salt to a gallon and two

table-spoonfuls of \anegar to the same quantity.

The latter is added to keep the flesh white and

fimn, or lemon juice may be used if preferred.

Always weigh the fish before boiling ; eight

minutes to the pound and eight minutes over is

tiie time usually allowed, but no hard-and-feist

rule can be laid down, as the time very much

depends upon the shape and thickness of the

fish. A fish-kettle is the best utensil to use for

boiling fish, where you have a drainer which

enables you to hft out the fish easily without

breaking it. Have enough water or stock in

the fish-kettle to cover the fish and no more ; if

too much is used the skin of the fish will be hable

to crack ; and add salt and vinegar in the above

proportions. Place the fish on the drainer and

lower it gently in. If a fish-kettle is not to be

had, a stewpan must be used. An old plate

should bo placed inside, and the fish tied in a

piece of muslin or cheese-cloth. Allow the fish

to simmer slowly for the required time. If

allowed to cook too quickly the outside will

be broken before the inside is ready. All

scum that rises must be removed. If allowed

to settle on the fish it will spoil its appearance.

When the fish is ready, the flesh ^vill have lost

its clear appearance, and will look white and

opaque. The flesh will also leave the bone easily.

Be sure to cook the fish sufficiently, or it will be

unwholesome, and at the same time do not

overcook it or it will be flavourless. Lift the

fish out of the water as soon as it is ready, and

drain it well. Never keep it hot in the water.

If it has to be kept warm for a time, place the

drainer, with the fish on it, across the fish-kettle,

and cover over with a clean cloth. Dish on a

strainer, and serve with appropriate sauce and

garnish.

Steaming. - Fish may be cooked by steam in-

stead of boiling it. It is a slower process, but

the flavour of the fish is retained better than by

boiling, especially in smaller pieces of fish.

The fish is placed in a steamer which fits on to

a saucepan, and success depends upon keeping

plenty of water boiling under it.

Slices of fish, small skinned whiting, or fiillets

of fish can be cooked to perfection both as to

flavour and substance by steaming, whereas

boihng would render them woolly and tasteless.

If it is only a small quantity of fish which

requires cooking it may be steamed on a plate.

Grease the plate with butter and lay the fish

neatly on it. Season to taste and squeeze a

little lemon juice over the top. Put a piece of

well-greased paper on the top and cover with

a second plate or the saucepan lid. Place this

on the top of a saucepan of boihng water and

allow it to remain from twenty to thirty minutes,

or until the fish is sufficiently cooked. The

liquid on the plate should be served with the

fish or made into a sauce with a httle flour and

butter, and then poured over the fish.

Note. - This is an excellent way of serving

fish for an invalid.

Frying (French or Wet Frying). - This is cook-

ing in a large quantity of fat, sufficient to cover

the article to be fried. Clarified fat, oil or lard

may be used for the purpose. The fat must be

put into a plain iron stewpan, neither tinned nor

enamelled, as the great heat would destroy the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

131

lining. Success depends upon getting the fat

to the right degree of heat. It must be quite

still. If it bubbles it shows that it contains

water, which must pass off by evaporation before

the fat can reach the required heat. A blue,

smoky vapour should also be seen rising from it.

It should then be used at once, or drawn back

from the fire, to prevent its burning and making

an unpleasant smell.

This method of frying is sviitable for small

fish such as smelts or small pieces of filleted fish,

such as filleted haddock, sole or plaice. Larger

pieces of fish which require more cooking must

be done by a slower process. (See Dry Frying

below.)

Fish to be fried must first be made as dry as

possible by wiping it gently with a cloth and

then by dusting it with flovtr. Any loose flour

which does not adhere should be shaken off.

The fish should then be further protected from

the fat by being egged and bread-cr\imbed or

dipped in frying batter (see p. 195).

Do not put too many pieces into the pan at

one time, as they will cool the fat too much, and

always bring it to boiling point again before

adding more fish. If the fat is not sufficiently

hot, it will soak into the articles fried, and make

them greasy instead of crisp. Either a frying-

baaket or a perforated spoon must be used for

lifting out the fish. Let them fry a brown colour,

and always drain on kitchen paper before

serving. Always dish fried fish on a d'oyley or

dish-paper. The fat must not be left on the

fire when finished with, but should be strained

through a piece of muslin into a tin basin, and

put aside for further use If care is taken of it

in this way it will keep for a long time, and wiU

not be found an extravagance.

Dry Frying. - This is suitable for larger pieces

of fish, such as cod or salmon steaks, and whole

whiting or haddocks, which require a longer

time to cook than French frying allows for.

Dry frying means frying in a saute or frying-

pan with a small quantity of fat. The fat must

be made smoking hot before the fish is placed in

it, so that the outside is sealed up, and the juice

and flavour retained. Brown the fish first on

one side, then turn over with a knife or fish slice,

and brown on the other. When cooked, Uft out

and drain on paper. Serve on a hot dish with

a fish-paper or d'oyley on it.

Broiling. - Tliis is cooking lish on a grill either

in front of or over a nice clear fire. Herring,

mackerel, trout, haddock, red mullet, &c., may

all be cooked in this manner. They may be

prepared ip either of the following ways : -

1. Wash and clean the fish, cutting off the

heads and fins, and dry them lightly in a cloth.

Then score the skin across three times on each

side to prevent it cracking during the process of

cooking. Season the fish with pepper and salt,

and brush it over with oil or melted butter, or

allow it to soak for an hour in a mixture of oil

and vinegar with a little chopped parsley and

shallot ; or

2. The fish may be spUt open, the bone re-

moved and then Mghtly coated with flour or fine

oatmeal. The latter is most suitable for herring,

mackerel, or trout. A coating of egg and

bread-crumbs may also be used if hked.

Thoroughly heat the gridiron, grease it well,

and lay the fish on it. Keep the fish rather

near the fire while cooking or it uill become

flabby. Cook it from seven to ten minutes

according to the thickness of the fish, and turn

it once at least during the process. When

finished it should be nicely browned on both

sides and show the marks of the grill. Serve

at once with cut lemon and small pats of Maitre

d'Hotel Butter. If there are any roes belonging

to the fish these may be cooked on a tin in the

oven and used as a garnish.

Note. - Fillets of fish, such as salmon, turbot,

or sole, are sometimes wrapped in a heart-shaped

piece of greased paper with a spoonful of any

good sauce and grilled thus. They may also be

soaked or marinaded in a mixture of oil, &c.,

as above, previous to being wrapped up. They

should be served in the paper (en papilloUes).

To Skin and Fillet Fish

A Haddock. - First wash the haddock in cold

water, and cut off all the fins.

Make a sUt in the skin up both sides, so that

it can easily be removed.

Make a cut across the skin just below the

head, and commence at the flap part.

Loosen the skin there, keeping down the flesh

with the knife, and beginning very carefully ;

then pull downwards towards the tail.

Turn, and do the other side in the same way.

To fillet it, remove the flesh cleanly from the

bones on both sides of the fish.

Commence at the open side of the fish, slipping

the knife along close to the bone, and laying the

flesh backwards, but do not separate it from the

other side.

Tui-n, and do the other side in the same way.

A fiUeted haddock should be in one piece.

A Sole or Plaice. - First wash the fish, and cut

off all the fins.

Lay on a board with the tail end nearest to you.

Make a cut across the skin just above the tail,

slip a knife under it, and commence raising the

skin from the flesh.

Then with the right thumb loosen the slun

all the way up the right-hand side.

Loosen up the other side in the same way,

this time using the thumb of the left hand.

Hold the tail of the fish firmly down on the

board ; take hold of the loosened skin with a

cloth, and pull it off quickly, dra^sing it upwards

towards the head.

The white skin may be removed in the same

way, but this is frequently left on.

132

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

To fillet the fish, make a cut straight down

the middle of the back to the backbone.

Then remove the flesh, first from one side and

then from the other.

Two fillets ai-e taken from each side.

It will be fomid easiest to raise the first fillet

from the left-hand side of the fish, working from

the head towards the tail ; and then to turn the

fish round, and to raise the second fillet, working

from the tail towards the head.

Turn the fish right over, and do the other side

in the same way.

Not€. - Filleting is really best leeirnt by watch-

ing a fishmonger or other competent person

at work.

Cold Fish Re-dressed

It is wonderful the variety of Uttle dishes

wliich can be made out of the scraps of cold

cooked fish. Either smoked or fresh fish may

be utiUsed in this way and made to appear

again in an appetising form. The smallest

pieces should not be thrown away, even two or

tiiree table-spoonfuls will suffice to make a fish

omelet, or, with the addition of some potatoes or

rice, enough fish-cakes for two or three persons.

Wlienever possible, the skin and bone should

be removed from the fish while it is still warm,

as when cold the gelatine in the fish hardens and

it becomes more adhesive. Cooked fish very

soon becomes dry and then hard, so it is better

to keep it covered with a plate or basin and to

use it as soon as possible.

The removing of the bones must be done with

the greatest care, as it is just the very small

bones which are so difficult to see which some-

times get into the tliroat and cause trouble.

It is often an improvement to use a little smoked

or salt fish along with the fresh ; it gives more

flavour to the dish.

Fillets of Cod au Gratin

(Fr. Cabillaud au Gratin)

Ingredients -

IJ lbs. of Cod.

2 oz. Butter.

1 Shallot.

1 tea-spoonful

Parsley.

chopped

6 or 6 Button Mushrooms.

2 table- spoonfuls Bread-

crumbs,

i Lemon.

I'epper and Salt.

Method. - A piece from the tail end of the

cod is best, for it is the most tender. Remove

the skin and the bono, and cut the fish into

neat fillets. Mix together the bread-crumbs, the

shallot, par-sley, and mushrooms finely chopped,

a little grated lemon rind, pepper and salt, and

melt the butter in a small pan. Grease a dish

which can stand the heat of the oven, sprinkle

over it some of the mixture, then place on the

dish a few fillets of cod with a little lemon juice,

melted butter and more mixture, then more

fish, and so on until all is used. Stand the dish

in a tin containing water, and bake in a moderate

oven for half-an-hour, basting the fish occasion-

ally ■with the butter on the dish. Serve hot.

A little white wine may be added.

Note. - Other kinds of fish, such as halibut,

haddock, whiting, or even smelts, may be pre-

pared in the same waj'.

Cod Baked in Batter

Ingredients -

1 lb. Cod.

2 oz. Flour.

IJ gills Milk.

1 Egg.

1 tea-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

1 02. Butter or Dripping.

Method. - Wash the cod, dry it, and cut into

small neat pieces, free from skin and bone.

Place these at the foot of a greased pie-dish,

and sprinkle them with a Uttle wliite pepper

and salt. Then make the batter according to

directions given on p. 192. If time permits,

let this batter stand for a short time. It gives

the flour time to swell, and makes it hghter.

Then pour it over the fish, and wipe round the

edges of the pie-dish. Bake in a moderate oven

from twenty to thirty minutes until the batter

is well risen and nicely brown, and the fish feels

tender. Serve as soon after it is taken from

the oven as possible.

Notes. - Any white fish may be used instead of

cod, or the remains of cold cooked fish may bo

utilised.

Half a tea-spoonful of finely powdered mixed

herbs may be used in addition to or instead of

the parsley.

The dish may be made richer by adding a few

oysters, shrimps, or sUces of hard-boiled egg.

Cod's Roe (To Boil)

{Ft. Laitance de Cabillaud)

Required -

Cod's Roe. I Vinegar.

Boiling Water. White or Parsley Sauce.

Salt. >

Wash the roe well in cold water, but do not

let it soak, then tie it up in a piece of muslin

or a pudding cloth, to prevent it breaking. Put

it into a saucepan or fish-kettle of slowly boiling

water, salted in the proportion of one table-

spoonful to one quart of water, and add a few

di'ops of vinegar. Tho water should just cover

the roe. Simmer slowly from fifteen to twenty

minutes according to size. When ready, Uft

the roe out, and let the water drain well from it.

Serve on a hot dish with white or parsley sauce

poured over it, or on a folded serviette, and

hand the sauce sepcu-ately.

Cod's Roe (Fried)

{Fr. Laitance de Cabillaud)

Cut cooked cod's roe in half-inch shoes, coat

them with a Uttle flour, and fry in a small

GUIDE TO COOKERY

133

quantity of butter or clarified fat. Serve

garnished with parsley.

Note. - If wished the slices may be egged and

bread-crumbed before frying.

Salt Cod with Parsnip Pur^e

{Fr. Morue a la Puree de Panais)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Salt Cod.

3 or 4 Parsnips.

1 oz. Butter.

2 or 3 table-spoonfuls thick

Cream.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Soak the fish overnight in cold

water, then take it out and wash it well in clean

cold water. Put it into a saucepan with cold

water to cover it, and let it boil slowly until it is

quite tender, about one hour. Then drain it,

remove the skin and large bones, put it on to a

dish, and keep it warm while the pur6e is being

prepared.

Boil the parsnips luitil quite tender, then

drain and rub them through a fine wire or hair

sieve. Reheat this pvir6e with the butter,

pepper, salt, and a Uttle cream. Pour it over

the fish, and garnish with a little very finely

chopped parsley.

Note. - Instead of the parsnip puree a good

egg sauce may be poxired over the fish.

Dressed Crab (Cold)

Ingredients-

1 Crab (boiled).

2 table-spoonfuls Cream or

Salad Oil.

1 table-sp. White Vinegar.

1 tea-spoonful Tarragon

Vinegar.

1 tea-spoonful made Mustard.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

2 table-spoonfuls white

Bread-crumbs.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - Pick the meat from the crab, keep-

ing back the unwholesome part near the head.

Scrub the shells thoroughly to receive the mix-

ture, dry and grease it ^vith a little oil or butter.

Chop the meat from the crab very finely, being

very careful to remove any small pieces of shell.

]VIix all the ingredients together in a basin,

and season rather highly w^th pepper, salt, and

cayenne. Return this to the prepared shell,

and garnish with sprigs of parsley, thin slices

of lemon, and the small claws. Serve on a

folded d'oyley or dish -paper.

Note. - Dressed crab may be served in a fancy

china dish instead of the crab shell.

Dressed Crab (Hot)

{Fr. Crabe au Gratin)

Ingredients -

1 Crab (boiled).

2 oz. Bread-crumbs.

2 table-sp. Melted Butter,

Cream, or Salad Oil.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Pepper and Salt.

1 tea-spoonful Vinegar or

Lemon Juice.

1 tea-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

A little grated Lemon Kind.

1 tea-spoonful Anchovy

Essence.

A few browned Bread-

crumbs.

\ oz. Butter,

small pieces of shell. Put this into a saucepan

with all the other ingredients except the browned

bread-crumbs and half ounce of butter. Season

rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne.

Make the mixtiu-e thoroughly hot over the fire,

and return it to the shell prepared as above.

Sprinkle the browned bread-crumbs over the

top, and put the butter on in smaU pieces.

Bake in the oven or in front of the fire for about

fifteen minutes. Serve on a d'oyley or dish-

paper, and garnish with parsley and small

slices of lemon.

Note. - If hked, two table-spoonfuls of tomato

pur6e may be added.

Fish Cakes

{Fr. Croquettes de Poisson)

Ingredients -

J lb. cooked Fish.

J lb. cooked Potatoes.

1 oz. Butter.

1 yolk of Egg.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 tea-spoonful

Essence.

Pepper and Salt.

A little Flour,

Bread-crumbs.

Anchovy

and

Method. - ^The remains of any cold cooked fish

may be used for making fish-cakes. Free the

fish from all skin and bone, then weigh it. Chop

it finely, being most careful to remove any small

bones, which might be most dangerous if left

in. Sieve the potatoes, or put them through

a vegetable presser, and chop the parsley very

finely. Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add

to it the fish, potatoes, parsley, yolk of egg,

and seasonings, and mix well together over the

fire. Turn out on to a plate, smooth over with

a knife, and set aside to cool. \Vhen the mixture

feels firm, divide it into ten or twelve small

pieces. Flour the hands, take one piece at a

time, and roll it into a ball, laying them as they

are formed on a slightly floured board. Then

with a knife, also floured, flatten them slightly,

and shape them into neat round cakes. Egg

and bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling fat

to a nice brown coloiu*. Drain well, and serve

piled high on a hot dish with a dish-paper under

them, and garnish with parsley.

Note. - Well-boiled and dried rice may be

used instead of potatoes.

Method. - Chop the meat finely, removing any

{Fr.

Ingredients -

i lb. uncooked Fish.

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Bread-crumbs.

1 gill of Jlilk.

AVTiite Sauce.

Fish Cream

Creme de Poisson)

1 gill Double Cream.

1 white of Egg.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Weigh the fish, free from skin an-i

bone, and slired it down finely with a knife.

Put it into a mortar, and pound it well. Rinse

out a small saucepan with cold water, to prevent

the mixture sticking to it. Put into it the

134

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

butter and the milk, and bring them to the boil

over the fire. Then add the bread-crumbs, and

stir with a wooden spoon over the fire until the

bread-crumbs swell and tlie mixture thickens.

Add tliis mixture to the fisli in the mortar, pound

well together, and rub tlirough a wire sieve,

scraping the sieve underneath.

Put the mixture into a basin, and season to

taste. Beat up the white of egg with a knife

on a plate imtil stiff, and whip the cream in a

beisin with a wire whisk until tliick. Add both

these to the fish mixture, and stir them in as

lightly as possible with an iron spoon. Pour

the mixture into a well-greased mould. The

mould must not be more than half -filled. Twist

a piece of greased paper over the top of it, and

steam slowly for half-an-hour, or until firm to the

touch. Tvirn out carefully on to a hot dish, and

pour ancho\-y or white sauce round it.

Note. - This may be steamed in a border

mould, and the inside afterwards filled with

green peas, or oysters mixed with a little of the

sauce.

Fish Cuny

Ingredients -

i lb. cooked Fish.

1 oz. Butter.

1 small Apple, or

1 stick of Rhubarb.

1 small Onion.

1 tea-spoonful Currj- Towder.

Method. - Melt the butter in a saucepan and

add the onion and apple or rhubarb cut in small

pieces. Cook until a nice brown colour, and

add the chutney, curry powder, rice flour,

pepper and salt. Stir until boiling and then

simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Rub the

sauce through a sieve and return it to the sauce-

pan to re-heat. Add the fish, broken in flakes

and free from skin and bone. Allow it to got

thoroughly hot, and add the lemon juice at the

last. A little cream is an improvement. Serve

boiled rice separately.

Fish Custard Puddings

i tea-spoonful Chutney.

1 gill Fish Stock.

1 tea-spoonful Rice Flour.

Pepper and Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

2 whites of Eggs.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

A little Coralline Pepper.

Feppar and Salt.

Ingredients -

I lb. cooked Flah.

i pint Milk.

4 yolks of Eggs.

1 tea-spoonful Anchovy

Essence.

Method. - Grcstso very carefully about six

dariol moulds or tiny basins, and decorate each

one at the foot with a little finely-chopped parsley

or coralline popper. Free the fish from all skin

and bone, and then weigh it. Chop it rather

finely, and about half-fill the moulds. Make a

custard with the eggs and milk. Beat up the

6ggs, yolks and whites, in a basin, and add the

milk. Season with white popper, salt, and

anchovy essence. Strain and pour over the

fish. Place the moulds in a tin with boiUng

water to reach half-way up the sides, cover

with greased paper, and poach in the oven or

on the top of the stove until the custards are

sot, about fifteen minutes. Turn out and

serve hot.

Note. - Tliese are excellent made with cold

salmon.

Fish Cutlets

{Fr. Cotelettes de Poisson)

Ingredients -

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 tea-sp. Anchovy Essence.

Pepper and Salt.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

J lb. cooked Fish.

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

1 gill Milk or Fish Stock.

1 yolk of Egg.

Method. - Free the fish carefully from all skin

and bone, then weigh and chop it finely. Melt

the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and mix

with a wooden spoon until smooth ; then poxir

in the milk or fish stock, and stir until the

mixtm-e boils and draws away from the sides of

the saucepan. Remove the pan from the fire,

add the fish, yolk of egg, and seasonings, and

mix well together. Tm-n the mixture out on

to a plate, smooth over with a knife, and set

aside in a cool place until firm. Divide into

eight equal-sized pieces, and finish in the same

way aa lobster cutlets (p. 137).

Fish Omelet

{Fr. Omelette au Poisson)

Ingredients -

2 oz. cooked Fish. I 2 Eggs.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley. I Pepper aud Salt.

1 oz. Butter.

Method. - Free the fish from skin and bon.j,

and chop it finely. Separate the yolks and

whites of the eggs. Put the yolks into a

medium-sized basin, and the whites on to a

plate. Add to the yolks the chopped fish,

parsley, pepper and salt, and work these well

together with a wooden spoon until of a creamy

consistency. Beat up the whites of the eggs

on the plate with a broad-bladed knife until so

stiff that you could turn the plate upside down

without the whites falling off. Remove the

wooden spoon from the basin, and with an iron

one stir into it the beaten whites lightly and

thoroughly. Molt the butter in an omelet pan,

and poiu" the mixture into it, scraping out the

basin as quickly as possible. Stir the mixture

round \^'ith an iron spoon until it begins to set,

stirring mostlj' on the surface, and not scraping

the foot of the pan. Then hold it a little longer

over the fire vmtil the omelet is nicely browned

on the under-side. Slip a knife under it, and

double over first from one side and then from

the other towards the centre. If not quite

cooked on the top, hold it in front of the fire for

a minute or two. Then turn it on to a hot dish

GUIDE TO COOKERY

135

with a fish-paper on it, and serve as quickly

as possible.

Note. - One or two table-spoonfuls of cream

added to the mixture is an improvement.

J lb. cooked Potatoes.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

A little Milk.

Fish Pie with Potatoes

Ingredients -

J lb. cooked Fish.

1 gill White Sauce.

1 hard-boiled Egg.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Break the fish into flakes, free from

skin and bone, and put it into a greased pie-

dish. Sprinkle with white pepper, salt, and a

Uttle lemon juice, and put the egg cut in slices

on the top. Make the sauce by melting ^ oz.

butter in a small pan, add ^ oz. flour and mix

until smooth, pour in 1 gill of milk or fish stock,

and stir until boiling and thick. Season to

taste, and pour this sauce over the fish and egg.

Melt the butter or dripping in a saucepan,

have the potatoes sieved, and add them to it ;

season with white pepper and salt, and moisten

with a Uttle milk. Pile this on the top of the

fish, &c., and smooth over with a knife. Mark

up the sides with a fork or the point of a knife,

and brush over with milk or beaten egg. Bake

in a moderate oven until nicely browned, and

serve hot.

Gateau of Fish and Bice

Ingredients -

4 lb. Carolina Rice.

i pint Fish Stock or Milk.

2 Eggs.

J lb. Fish (cooked).

1 oz. Butter.

Grated rind of i Lemon.

Pepper and Salt.

1 tea-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

A little Coralline Pepper.

Method. - Wash the rice, and put it into a

saucepan with the milk or stock. Allow it to

cook slowly until quite soft, adding more liquid

if necessary. Then add to it the fish chopped,

the butter, pepper, salt, and grated lemon rind.

Beat up the eggs and add them, mixing well.

Then grease a plain mould or basin, and decorate

it with chopped parsley and a little coralline

pepper ; pour the mixture into this ; cover with

greased paper, and steam slowly from one to

one and a half hours, until Qira to the touch.

Turn out on a hot dish, and serve with or

without sauce.

Fish Pie with Macaroni

{Fr. Poisson au Macaroni)

Ingredients -

J lb. J'ish, cooked or un-

cooked.

J lb. Macaroni.

* pint White Sauce.

\ oz. Butter.

Lemon Juice.

A little grated Lemon Bind.

Pepper and Salt.

1 table-spoonful Bread-

crumbs.

Method. - Put the macaroni into a saucepan of

hot water and boil until quite soft, drain, and

chop it rather small. Remove all skin and

bone from the fish, and cut it into small pieces,

or if cooked, break it into flakes. Grease a pie-

dish, and put in half the fish, seasoning with

pepper, salt, a Uttle grated lemon rind, and

lemon juice. Next put in half the macaroni

and half the sauce, then the remainder of the

fish, more seasoning, and the rest of the macaroni

and sauce. Sprinkle the bread-crumbs over the

top, and place the butter on in small pieces.

Wipe round the edges of the pie-dish, and bake

in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes if the fish

is cooked, or half-an-hoiir if uncooked fish is

used. Brown the pie nicely on the top, and

serve hot, garnished with sprigs of parsley.

Note. - A few oysters, picked shrimps, or

hard-boiled egg, cut in sUces, may be added to

this pie.

Another very good pie can be made by

using cooked and sieved potatoes in place of

the macaroni.

Steamed Fish Pudding

{Fr. Ponding de Poisson)

Ingredients -

1 tea-sp. Anchovy Essence.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

Anchory or Parsley Sauce.

i lb. cooked Fish.

2 oz. Bread-crumbs.

1 oz. Butter.

1 gill Milk.

lEgg.

Method. - First grease a plain mould or basin,

or several small moulds, with clarified butter,

and sprinkle the chopped parsley over the

inside. Free the fiish from all skin and bone,

and chop it finely. Put it into a basin with the

bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, and anchovy essence.

Put the milk and butter into a small saucepan,

bring them to the boil, and then poiu* over the

ingredients in the basin. Let these soak for a

few minutes, then add the egg well beaten.

IMix together, and pour into the prepared mould

or moulds. Cover with gi-eased paper and

steam from ten to fifteen minutes if in small

movilds, and for half-an-hour if done in one

large mould. When ready, the mixture should

be fijrm to the touch. Turn out on to a hot

dish, and serve with anchovy or parsley sauce

poured round.

Potato and Fish Timbale

{Ft. Timbale de Poisson)

Ingredients -

J lb. cooked Potato.

1 yolk of Egg.

1 oz. Butter.

2 table-sjwonfuls grated

Cheese.

Seasoning.

2 table-sp. white Bread-

crumbs.

\ lb. cooked Fish.

2 t&ble-sp. 'NMiite Sauce.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Seasoning.

Method. - Sieve the potatoes, add to them the

butter molted, the yolk of egg, cheese, and

seasonings. Mis well together, and if not

136

THE WOMAIs^S BOOK

sufficiently moist add a very little milk. Butter

a basin or plain mould, and sprinkle it with the

bread-crumbs. Lino the bottom and sides -with

the potato mixture, keeping back a Uttlc for

the top. Then remove all sldn and bone from

the fish, mix it vrith the wliite sauce, and add

parsley and seasoning to tasto. Hard-boiled

egg cut in pieces, oj'sters, ancho\'y, or mush-

rooms may bo added. The mixture must not

be too moist. Put it into the prepared mould,

and cover with the rest of the potato mixture.

Make the top very smooth with a knife. Bake

in a moderate oven about forty minutes. Place

a hot dish on the top, invert the mould, and let

it stand a few minutes. Then carefully with-

draw the mould. Serve plain or with white

sauce.

Scalloped Fish

{Fr. Coquilles de Poisson)

Ingredients -

} lb. cooked Fish.

1 gill Whit-e Sauce.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

VMiite Pepper and Salt

1 table-spoonful browned

Crumbs.

J oz. Butter.

Some Scallop Shells.

Method. - Flake any nice white fish (herring

or mackerel would be too rich) into neat pieces.

Season the fish with white pepper, salt, and

a few drops of lemon juice. Butter some clean

scallop shells and sprinkle \\-ith a few bread-

crumbs. Put in a spoonful of sauce •with some

of the prepared fish on the top, and continue

putting in fish and sauce in layers until the

shells are full. Ck)ver the top with bread-crumbs

and a few tiny pieces of butter. Bake in a

moderate oven imtil nicely browned and serve

very hot.

Notes. - A little grated parmesan or a few

oysters or picked shrimps may be added to the

sauce if wished, and a little cream is always an

improvement.

A fireproof dish may be used instead of the

scallop shells.

Stuffed Fillets of Haddock

{Fr. Filets d'Eglefin Farcis)

Stuffing -

Ingredients -

2 small filleted Haddocks.

I'epper and Salt.

Lemon Juice.

2 table-spoonfuls browned

Bread-ciTimbs.

Maitre d'Had Butter.

Anchovy or I'araley Sance.

2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

1 tea-sp. chopped I'arslty.

1 dessert-spoonful melted

Butter.

Grated I-emon Kind.

Pepper and .Salt

A little Milk.

Method. - Wipe the fish with a clean cloth,

end cut them in half lengthways. Lay them

out on a board with the side which the skin

was taken off uppermost, and sosison each piece

with white pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice.

Prepare the stuffing as directed on p. 169,

lay a little on each fillet, and roll them

up, commencing at the thick end, and rolling

towcu-ds the tail. Stand them up on a greased

tin, cover with a piece of greased paper, and

bake in a moderate oven about fifteen niinutes,

or imtil the fish has lost its clear appearance,

and looks quite wliite. When ready, roll the

pieces in some fine browned bread-crumbs,

coating them well. Place them on a hot dish,

pour some anchovy or parsley sauce round,

and put a small pat of maitre d'hotel butter on

the top of each.

Smoked Haddock Balls

Ingredients -

6 oz. cooked Smoked

Iladdock.

6 oz. cooked or sieved

Potatoes.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

1 hard-boiled Egg.

1 yolk of Egg.

A little Milk.

I'epper and .Suit.

A little Flour.

E^g and Bread-crumbs.

Method. - Chop the fish finely, being most

careful to remove all skin and small bones.

Chop also the hard-boiled egg and sieve the

potatoes. Melt the butter or dripping in a

saucepan, and put in the potatoes, fish, and

hard-boiled egg. Add the raw yolk of egg,

and season to taste with pepper and salt. Mix

all together over the fire, and if too dry add a

little milk. Turn the mixture on to a plate,

and then form into balls. Egg and bread-

crumb, and fry in boiling fat.

Smoked or Finnan Haddock Stewed in Milk

Ingredients -

1 Smoked Haddock.

i pint Milk.

1 oz. Butter.

J oz. Flour.

Pepper.

Sippets of Toast.

Methods. - Dip the haddock into boiling water

for a minute or two, then remove the skin and

all fins. Cut the fish in neat-sized pieces, put

them into a saucepan with the milk, and simmer

slowly about fifteen minutes or until the fish

is quite tender. Then lift out the pieces of

fish, and keep them hot on a dish. Work the

butter and flour together on a plate with a

knife, and when thoroughly blended add them

to the milk in the pan. Stir over the fire, and

cook a few minutes. Add a pinch of pepper,

and strain this sauce over tlie fish. Geumish

with sippets of toast, and serve hot.

Halibut with Tomatoes

(Fr. Fletan aux Tomates)

Ingredients -

]} lbs. Halibut

3 or 4 Fresh Tomatoes.

1 table-spoonful Flour.

Pepper and Salt

I Juice of J a Lemon.

2 table-spoonfuls

crumbs.

I i oz. Butter.

Bread-

Method. - Wash the halibut, and cut it into

small neat pieces free from skin and bone.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

137

Put the flour on to a plate, and coat each piece

of fish lightly with it. Let the tomatoes soak

in boihng water for a few minutes, then hft

them out, dry, and skin them. Put them on

a plate and cut them in shoes. Grease out a

pie-dish with a little butter, lay in a few pieces

of fish, and season with pepper, salt, and lemon

juice. Over these put some of the tomatoes,

then more fish and seasoning, and so on until

all is in. ]\Iake the top layer tomatoes ; sprinkle

the bread-crumbs over last of all, and put the

butter on in small pieces. Bake in a moderate

oven from three-quarters to one hour, and brown

nicely on the top. When ready remove from

the oven and wipe round the edges of the pie-

dish. Place the pie on a dish, and serve very

hot.

Halibut (Mayonnaise of)

(Fr. Fletan a la Mayonnaise)

Required -

Halibut. I rarsley, Lobster Coral or

Xfayonnaise Sauce. I Salad to garnish.

Method. - Boil a nice middle cut of halibut,

being careful not to overcook it, or it will lose

its shape. Drain well, and remove the skin.

When quite cold, Uft on to a clean dish, and

pour over enough Mayonnaise sauce to coat it

nicely. Garnish with some finely chopped

parsley or lobster coral sprinkled lightly over

it, and rovmd the dish arrange some sprigs of

parsley or some nice leaves of lettuce or cress.

Cucumber or tomato salad would make a nice

accompaniment to this dish.

Note. - Cold halibut c an also be served quite

simply without the sauce. It should be prettily

garnished and accompanied with salad.

Fresli Herring au Gratin

(Fr. Harengs au Gratin)

Required -

4 fresh Herring.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

Mustard Sauce.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Mushrooms.

1 oz. Butter.

Browned Crumbs.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Butter a gratin dish rather thickly

with some of the butter, and sprinkle over the

foot half the parsley and half the muslirooms.

Have the herring nicely cleaned and trimmed,

remove the heads, and score the skin across in

several places. Lay the fish in the dish, season

them well, and sprinkle with the remainder

of the parsley and muslirooms. Cover with

browned bread-crumbs, and put the rest of

the butter in small pieces on the top. Bake in

a moderate oven about twenty minutes, and

.serve with mustard sauce (if Ukod) in a sauce-

boat.

Pickled Herring

(Fr. Harengs Marines)

Required -

3 or 4 Herring.

1 table-spoonful Flour,

i tea-spoonful powdered

Mace.

Pepper and Salt.

4 or 5 Cloves.

12 Peppercorns.

Brown Vinegar and Water.

Method. - Wash and clean the herring, cutting

off the heads and the fins, and scraping the

skin well with a knife. Dry them in a cloth,

and then spUt them open, and remove all the

bones. Cut each herring in two lengthwaj'S.

Put the flour, pepper, salt, and mace on to a

plate, and mix them well together. Dip each

piece of herring into this, and roll them up from

the tliick end towards the tail. Pack them into a

greased pie -dish, putting them in two layers if

necessary. Pour round them in equal quantities

water and brown vinegar, enough to half fill

the dish. Put in the cloves and peppercorns.

A bay leaf may also be added. Place small

pieces of dripping here and there over the top,

and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.

Set aside till cold. Serve as many pieces of

fish as will be required at one time on a clean

dish, pour a httle of the hquid round them,

and garnish with parsley. Herring done in

this way will keep for several days. More

xanegar should be added if required. Do not

let the fish become too dry.

Note. - Mackerel may be prepai'ed in the

same way.

Lobster Cutlets

(Ft. Cotelettes de Homard)

Ingredients -

1 table-spoonftil Cream.

A sijueeze of Lemon Juice.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Spawn or CoraL

\ oz. Butter.

Egg and Bread-cnimbs.

1 Hen Lobster.

1 oz. Butter.

li oz. Flour.

1 gill "Water }- Panada.

or Fish

Stock.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Remove all the flesh from a boiled

lobster, and chop it very finely, carefully keep-

ing back any little pieces of shell. Pound some

spawn or coral in a mortar with the half ounce

of butter, and rub it tlirough a hair sieve. Tlus

is called lobstor butter.

Make a panada by putting the butter and

water or stock into a saucepan, and when they

boil, stirring in the flour. Mix well with a

wooden spoon vmtil perfectly smooth and well

cooked. Tlien add the lobster, the lobster

butter, cream, and seasonings. Jlix well

together, and turn out on a plate to cool.

^Vhen cold and firm, form the mixtiu-e into

small cutlet-shaped pieces, using a little flour

to enable you to shape them more easily. Then

egg and bread-crumb thorn and fry in hot fat

to a golden brown. Drain well on kitchen

138

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

paper, and stick a small piece of the feeler or a

piece of parsley stalk into the narrow end of

each to represent a bone. Dish in a circle on a

hot dish with a dish paper iinder them, and

garnish with fried parsley.

Note. - Crab Cutlets may be made in the

same way.

Mussels a la Poulette

{Fr. Moules a la Poulette)

Ingredients -

1 quart Mussels.

1 Onion.

A few sprigs of Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

I pint ^^'hite Wine.

i oz. Butter.

i oz. Flour.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

1 yolk of Egg.

Method. - Choose small mussels ; they are

the most deUcate. Scrape the shells carefully

with a knife, and wash weU in cold water,

changing the water several times until the

mussels are quite free from grit. Put the

mussels into a saut4 pan or shallow stewpan,

with the onion thinly sliced, sprigs of peirsley,

white wine, pepper and salt. Cover the pan,

put it on the fire, and toss the mussels occa-

sionally. When the shells open, the mussels

are done. Drain them, and strain the liquor

into a basin. Remove the shells from the

mussels and carefully remove the piece which

looks like a weed. Melt the butter in the pan,

add the floiu*, and mix until smooth with a

wooden spoon. Poiir in the strained liquor,

and stir until boiling. Add the yolk of egg and

chopped parsley, and allow the sauce to thicken,

but do not boil again. Put in the mussels to

re-heat and serve at once.

Oyster Souffles (Baked)

{Fr. Petite Souffles d'Huitres)

Ingredients -

IJ dozen Oysters. 1 oz. Butter.

1 Whiting. 1 oz. Bread-crumbs.

2 Eggs. 1 gill Oyster Liquor, Milk,

2 table-spoonfuls Cream. or Fish .Stock.

■\Miite Pepper and Salt. A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

A pinch of Cayenne. A pinch of Nutmeg.

Mctlwd. - Put the oysters into a saucepan

with their liquor, bring to the boil and strain.

Then remove the gristle, and break them into

small pieces with a fork. Scrape the flesh from

the whiting, free it from all skin and bono, and

pound well in a mortar. Melt the butter in a

small pan, add the oyster liquor and bread-

crumbs, and stir over the fire until the mixture

thickens. Add this panada to the whiting in

the mortar, pound again for a few minutes,

and then rub through a fine wire sieve. Put

the sieved mixture into a basin, and add the

oysters, yolks of eggs, soeisoning, and cream.

Mix well. Beat up the whites of eggs to a stiff

froth on a plate, and stir them lightly into the

mixture with an iron spoon. Pour into small

greased souffl6 case^, cliina or paper, and bake

in a moderate oven for about fifteen minutes,

until well risen and firm to the touch. When

ready, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve

quickly.

Perch (To Stew with Wine)

{Fr. Perche au Via Blanc)

Ingredients -

3 or 4 Perch.

WTjite Stock and Sherry.

2 Bay Leares.

A few Parsley Stalks.

1 small Onion.

2 or 3 Cloves.

I 1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

1 tea-spoonful

Essence.

Pepper and Salt.

Aachovy

Method. - ^Wash and clean the fish thorouglily,

scrape well to remove the scales, and cut off

the fins. Lay the perch in a stewpan with

equal quantities of sherry and stock to cover

them. Add the bay leaves, cloves, parsley

stalks, and onion thinly sUced. Season with

pepper and salt, put the lid on the pan, and

stew slowly until tender, about twenty minutes.

When ready, lift the fish carefully on to a hot

dish, and strain the hquid into a basin. Put

the butter into the pan, and let it melt over the

fire. Add the flour, and mix with a wooden

spoon until smooth. Then pour in the strained

liquor, add the anchovy essence, and stir over

the fire until boiling. The sauce must be of a

consistency to coat the fish. If too thin, allow

it to reduce for a few minutes ; if too thick,

add more stock or sherry. Pour this over the

fish, and serve hot.

Note. - Perch may also be boiled or fried.

Red Mullets au Gratin

(Ft. Rougets au Gratin)

Ingredients -

2 Red Mullete.

i glass of Sherry.

1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.

1 tea-si)oonful Anchovy

Essence.

3 or 4 Button Mushrooms.

1 oz. Butter.

chopped

1 tea-spoonful

Parsley.

} tea-sp. chopped Union.

Orated rind of | a Lemon.

1 table-spoonful browned

Bread-crumbs.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Wash and clean the mullets, cutting

off the heads and fins, and dry them in a cloth.

Greeise a gratin dish with some of the butter,

and sprinkle over it half the chopped parsley,

mushrooms, and onion, and a little grated lemon

rind. Score the fish across once or twice with

a knife, and lay them on the top. Sprinkle

with popper and salt and the remainder of the

chopped ingredients. Pour over the wine,

ketchup, and anchovy sauce, and cover with

browned bread-crumbs. Put the rest of the

butter in small pieces on the top, and bake in a

moderate oven about twenty minutes. Wipe

the dish, and garnish with parsley before serving.

GUIDE TO COOKEKY

139

Russian Fish Pie

{Fr. Pat^ de Poisaon a la Russe)

Ingredients -

J lb. White Fish.

1 tea-spoonful chopped

Parsley.

1 hard-boiled Egg.

Vhite Pepper and Salt.

1 table-sp. White Sauce.

A little grated Lemon Rind

and Lemon Juice.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Kough Puff Pastry.

Method. - The fish for this pie may either be

cooked or uncooked according to the kind used.

Cod, halibut, or turbot would require to be

cooked first, but such fish as haddock, sole, or

whiting may be used raw. Break or cut the

fish into small neat pieces and put them on

a plate. Seeison with pepper, salt, cayenne,

grated lernon rind and lemon juice. Add the

white sauce and hard-boiled egg cut in small

pieces and mix all carefully together.

Make the proportion of pastry with ^ lb. of flour

(see p. 164), and roll it out to a square shape and

about one-tighth of an inch in thickness. Trim

the edges with a sharp knife, reserving the scraps

for decorating the pie. Put the fish mixture in

the centre of the square, wet the corners of the

pastry with cold water or beaten egg and fold

them upwards, making them meet and overlap

slightly in the centre Uke a handkerchief sachet.

Press the joins well together and brush the pie

over with beaten egg. Decorate the top with

some leaves cut out of the scraps of pastry

that were trimmed off. Brush over the leaves

also with beaten egg and lift the pie very care-

fully on to a greased baking-tin. Bake in a

good oven from three-quarters to one hoiu",

until the pastry is thoroughly cooked and of a

brown colour. Serve h >t garnished with parsley.

Notes. - Cooked salmon may be used for this

pie.

Sometimes a little cooked rice is mixed with

the fish.

A few oysters or picked shrimps may be added.

Salmon (Mayonnaise of)

{Fr. Mayonnaise de Saumon)

Required - Decorations -

A middle cut of Salmon. Lobster, Coral, TruflBe,

Mayonnaise Sauce. Parsley, Lettuce, Endive,

Aspic Jelly. or Cucumber.

Method. - Boil a nice cut of salmon, remove

the skin, and let it become cold. Put it on to

a clean dish, and coat with thick Mayonnaise

sauce, to which liquid aspic heis been added in the

proportion of half gill to half pint of sauce. Use

the sauce in a setting condition, covering the

fish all over, and then set aside until filrm.

Garnish with anytlung suitable, such as lobster,

coral, truffle, parsley, lettuce, endive, cucum-

ber, &c. A border of chopped aspic will make

a pretty finish to the dish.

Notes. - ^Remains of cold salmon may be used

for this dish. The fish ought to be flaked, piled

liigh on a dish, and then coated with sauce.

Potted Salmon

Ingredients -

\ lb. cooked Salmon.

2 oE. Butter.

1 tea-spoonful Anchovy or

Shrimp Essence.

J tea-spoonful Vinegar.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of powdered Mace.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - Free the salmon from all skin and

bone, and then weigh it. Put it into a mortar

with most of the butter melted, and season to

taste and rather highly. Pound well until

smooth, and then rub through a sieve. Pack

this smoothly into a small pot or jar, and run

the rest of the butter over the top, which will

preserve the mixt\u-e and prevent it from be-

coming dry. This makes dehghtful sandwiches,

when a little thinly sliced cucumber or small

cress would be an improvement.

Note. - Other fish, such as cod, halibut, brill,

or mackerel, may be used in the same way.

Required -

i dozen Scallops.

Pepper and Salt.

Fried Scallops

{Fr. Coquilles Frits)

A little Flour.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

Method. - Wipe the scallops and cut them in

two pieces. Dry them with a httle flour and

then coat with egg and bread-crumbs. Fry a

nice brown colour in boiling fat, drain and serve

garnished with cut lemon and parsley.

Scalloped Scallops

Required -

Scallops.

Pepper and Salt.

Lemon Juice.

WTiite Bread-crumbs.

A little chopped Parsley.

Butter.

Method. - Choose perfectly fresh scallops, open

and remove them from the shells. Cut off the

beards and black part, and wash them thoroughly.

Wash and scrub the deeper shells and dry them.

Grease them with butter, and sprinkle a few

white bread-crumbs over. Lay three scallops

into each shell, and season them with pepper,

salt, lemon juice, and a little chopped parslej'.

Cover with more bread-crumbs, and put some

small pieces of butter on the top. Brown

quickly in a hot oven or before the fire. Serve

on a hot dish \%-ith a dish paper under them,

and garnish %vith cut lemon and parsley.

Shrimp Patties

{Fr. Petits PAtes de Crevettes)

Ingredients -

J lb. picked Shrimps.

2 table-sp. WTiite Sauce.

1 tea-sp. Shrimp Essence.

2 table-spoonfuls Cream.

Method. - Heat the sauce, add the shrimps

and seasoning and mix well. Poiu* in the cream

and make thoroughly hot before using.

Pepper and Salt

A pinch of Cayenne.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Rough Puff or Puff Pastry.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

To niake the Patties. - ilake the pastry cases

according to directions given on p. 165 (first

or second method), and fill thorn witli the

shrimp mixture. Put on the lids of pastry and

garnish with sprigs of parsley. Serve on a

liot dish with a d'oyley or dish-paper under

them.

Note. - Lobster or Oyster Patties can be made

in the same way, using small pieces of cooked

lobster or oysters instead of the shrimps.

The wliite sauce shovdd be made, if possible,

with fisli Steele.

Sole a la Bechamel

{Fr. Sole a la Bechamel)

Ingredients -

1 Sole.

J 02. Butter.

i oz. Flour.

il gills Fish Stock.

1 table-spoonful Cream.

Pepper and Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Decoration.

Method. - Prepare and cook in the same way

as Sole au Parniesan (see below), omitting the

cheese and adding a little cream to the sauce.

Decorate with chopped parsley, chopped truffle,

hard-boiled and sieved yolk of egg or lobster

coral, or alternate strips of each.

Sole au Gratin

(Ft. Sole au Gratin)

Prepare and cook in the same way as red

mullets au gratin.

Fillets of Sole au Parmesan

{Fr. Filets de Sole au Parmesan)

Ingredients -

1 Sole.

2 oz. grated Parmesan.

Pepper and Salt

A pinch of Cayenne.

J oz. Butter.

J oz. Flour.

li gills Fish Stock.

A little Lemon Juice.

Method. - Skin and fillet the fish. Wash the

trimmings and bones, and put them into a

saucepan with one gill of water and one gill of

milk, a small piece of onion, a bay leaf, a blade

of mace, and some parsley stalks. Simmer

slowly for fifteen minutes, and strain this stock

ready for use. Trim the fillets neatly, and lay

them on a board v^-ith the side from which the

skin was taken uppermost. Season with popper,

salt, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Double

each fillet over lengthways, place them on a

greased baking-tin, cover with greased paper,

and bake from ten to fifteen minutes. Make

a sauce with the butter, flour, and stock and

season with pepper, salt, and caj'enne. The

sauce must be thick enough to coat the fish.

Add most of the cheese to the sauce, but do not

boil again. Dish the fillets on a hot dish, one

leaning against the other ; povir the sauce over,

and sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the top.

Brown in the oven and serve hot.

Note. - Fillets of any other white fish may be

prepared in the same way.

Whitebait (to Fry)

(Fr. Blanchailles)

Required -

Whitebait

Flour

Method. - ^These fish must be perfectly fresh,

and should be carefully looked over and put

into water with a lump of ice in it, and kept

there until required. Have ready on the fire a

saucepan of boiling fat or oil (see French Frying,

p. 130). Put two or three table -spoonfuls of

flour on the centre of a clean cloth, di'ain some

of the wliitebait free from water in a colander,

and then shake them lightly in the flour.

Empty the bait without delay into a frying

basket, and shake well to let the loose floiir drop

out. Plunge it into hot fat and let the fish fry

for a minute or two. Then lift out the basket

of fish and lot the fat re-heat ; put in the fish

a second time and fry till crisp and lightly

browned. If there is a quantity of whitebait

to be cooked it is a good plan to fry it all the

first time and lot it drain, and give it the second

frying just when it is required. Serve garnished

with quarters of lemon and fried parsley, and

hand brown bread and butter separately.

Note. - Devilled Whitebait is prepared by

sprinkling the fish ^vith black or red pepper

b<3fore the final frying.

SAUCES- SAVOURY AND SWEET

General Notes on Sauce-malcing. - Sauces are

easily made if the rules for making them are

closely followed and the various ingredients

carefully measured to the exact quantities given

in the recipes.

The basis of most sauces is butter and flour

cooked together, which makes a thickening. This

thickening is frequently called a " roux." If for

a white sauce, the flour and butter are not

coloured ; if for a brown, the butter is first allowed

to take colour and then the flour is cooked until

brown. To this thickening is added the liquid

and seasoning suitable to the dish with which

the sauce has to be served. After the liquid is

poured on to the thickening the sauce must be

stirred constantly until boiling or it will be

lumpy. Sauces frequently have a raw taste

owing to the flour in them not being properly

GUIDE TO COOKERY

141

cooked. No sauce is ready as soon as it

thickens ; it must boil at least three minutes.

The thickness of the sauce can be regulated

according to the purpose for wliich it is to be

used by adding more or less liquid.

When wine is required allow the sauce to boil

for two or three minutes after it has been added

in order to blend the flavour. If cream is added

let it boil in the sauce for a minute or two. Be-

fore adding yolks of eggs to a sauce, draw the

saucepan to the side of the fire and drop them

in one at a time, stirring briskly, and do not boil

again. When lemon juice is added to any sauce

containing milk or cream, add it last of all, and

do not boil again. Strain aU sauces before \ising

except those which have a chopped ingredient

served in them such as caper, parsley, egg

sauce, &c.

The best sauces are usually rubbed through a

hair sieve or wrung through a tammy-cloth, to

make them perfectly smooth and velvety in

appearance. The washing of the tammy-cloth

must be carefully attended to, or it is apt to

give the sauce an unpleasant flavour.

To Keep Sauces Warm. - Stand the saucepan

containing them inside another pan of hot water

and cover the sauce with a Ud to prevent a skin

forming on the top. With very thick sauces a

little water may be run over the top.

Sauce AUemande

Ingredients -

1 pint Velout^

(p. 146).

Sauce

3 yolks of Eggs.

J oz. Butter.

Method. - Put the velout^ sauce into a sauce-

pan, and let it boil nntil reduced one-foiu'th.

Then di'aw the pan to the side of the fire, and

add the yolks of eggs and butter. Stir briskly,

and cook for a minute or two over a slow fire.

Do not boil again, or the sauce wiU curdle.

Strain tlirough a fine strainer or tammy before

using.

Anchovy Sauce

{Fr. Bemre d'Anchois)

1 dessert-spoonful Anchovy

Essence.

White Pepper and Salt to

taste.

Ingredients -

J oz. Butter.

\ oz. Flour.

i pint Fish Stock or 1 gill

of Milk and 1 gill of

Water.

Method. - Melt the but<.er in a small lined

saucepan, add the flour, and mix smoothly with

a wooden spoon. Cook for a minute or two over

the firo without discolouring, and then draw the

pan to tho side before adding the liqiiid. Fish

stock will give tho sauce a better flavour ; but if

that is not to be had, use milk and water. Add

the liquid gradually, then return the pan to the

fire, and keep stirring constantly until boiling.

Add the anchovy essence, and season to taste

with white pepper and salt.

Note, - Preserved anchovies may be used

instead of the anchovy essence. Three or four

will be required for the above quantity of sauce.

Lift them out of the oil in which they are pre-

served, dip them for a minute into warm water,

and then scrape o2 the silver skin. Pound

them in a mortar, and rub through a wire or hair

sieve. Scrape the sieve well underneath, and

add this paste to the sauce.

Apple Sauce

[Fr. Sauce aux Pommas)

Ingredients -

3 or 4 Apples.

J oz. Butter.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

i gill of Water.

1 table-spoonful

Sugar.

Brown

White Pepper and Salt

A pinch of Cayenne.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Method. - Wipe the apples with a cloth, then

peel, core and sUce them thinly. Put them into a

lined saucepan with the water, sugar and nutmeg.

Let them stew slowly until reduced to a pulp

and stir frequently with a wooden spoon. Add

the butter and mash them until smooth or rub

through a hair sieve. Make thoroughly hot

before serving.

Bechamel Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Bechamel)

Irigredients -

li oz. Butter.

IJ oz. Flour.

1 pint Seasoned Milk.

J gill Cream.

Method. - Melt the butter in a lined saucepan,

add tho floor, and mis smoothly with a wooden

spoon. Cook for a minute or two over the fire,

but do not brown. Di'aw the saucepan to one

side of the fire, and add the milk all at once.

Return to the fire, and stir constantly xmtil

boiling. Add the cream and seasoning, and

cook for a minute or two longer. Remove the

saucepan from the fire before adding the lemon

juice, and strain before using.

Note. - Seasoned Milk - (1) Put as much milk

as is required into a lined saucepan, with a small

piece of carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, a bay

leaf, one or two cloves, and a few parsley stalks.

Let the saucepan stand by the side of the fire

until the milk is well seasoned, then strain and

cool before using.

(2) More or less milk may be added, according

to the thickness of the sauce required. If con-

sidered too rich, the cream may be omitted.

(3) If used for masking meat, this sauce must

have two or three leaves of gelatine or somo

aspic jelly added to it.

Black Butter

{Fr. Beurre Noir)

Ingredients -

2 oz. Butter.

1 table-spoonful Vinegar.

Method. - Melt the butt"r in a small saucepan,

and stir it briskly until it becomes quite brown.

1 dessert-sp. Minced Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

142

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

but not burnt. Mince the parsley rather |

coarsely, throw it in, and add the v-inegar and

seaisoning. Simmer a minute or two and the

sauce will be ready for serving.

Black butter is frequently served with fish.

(Fr.

Ingredients -

i pint Milk.

2 oz. Bread-crumbs.

} amall Otiion.

3 or 4 Cloves.

Bread Sauce

Sauce au Pain)

J oz. of Butter or

1 table-spoonful Cream.

■\Miite Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - Rinse out a small lined saucepan with

cold water and put into it the milk and the piece

of onion stuck with cloves. Set this by the side

of the fire and simmer very gently until the milk

is well flavoured. Then remove the onion and

cloves and eidd the bread-crumbs, which must

be finely made by being rubbed through a wire

sieve. Stir over the fire and cook slowly until

the bread-crumbs swell and thicken the sauce.

Add the butter or cream and season to taste

with white pepper, salt, and a pinch of cayenne.

Brown Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Espagnole)

Ingredients -

1 02. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

1 pint Brown Stock.

1 small Onion.

A small piece of Carrot and

Turnip.

1 stick of Celery or J teasp.

Celery Seed.

1 dessert-sp. Ketchup.

1 tea-sp. Harvey's Sauce.

A small sprig of Thyme,

Parsley, and Marjoram.

1 Bay Leaf.

1 blade of Mace.

3 or 4 Cloves.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,

and let it brown. Add the onion, skinned

and cut, in thin sUcos, and stir until it is

brown. Add the flour, and brown it also.

Then draw the stewpan to one side, pour in

the stock, and stir over the fire until boiling.

Boil for a few minutes, and remove all scum with

an iron spoon. Have the other vegetables pre-

pared and cut small, and add them next with the

sesisonings. If celery seed is used, tie it in a piece

of muslin. Simmer the sauce slowly for at least

half -an -hour, stirring occasionally, and skimming

when neoessarj'. Strain through a fine strainer

or tammy-cloth, and ro-heat before using.

Note. - If the stock used is well flavoured,

some of the seasonings and vegetables may be

omitted-

A few chopped mushrooms and a sliced

tomato may be added if wished, also a little

wine.

Tliis sauce is the foundation for many other

brown sauces, as for instance : -

Sauce aux Olfves. - Cook one dozen or more

turned olives in a glass of sherry and add half

pint brown sauce.

Sauce Mad^re. - Add one glass Madeira and

one tea-spoonful lemon juice to half pint of

brown sauce.

Sauce Piquante. - Cook one table-spoonful

chopped capers, one tea-spoonful chopped

shallot, one table-spoonful chopped gherkin,

in lialf gill %'inegar, add half pint of brown sa\ice

and just before serving one dessert-spoonful

chopped parsley.

Caper Sauce

Sauce aux Capres)

1 table-spoonful Capers.

1 table-spoonful Vinegar.

White Pepper and Salt.

{Fr.

Ingredients -

3 oz. Butter,

i oz. Flour.

J pint Fish Stock or Meat

Boilings.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small lined

saucepan, being careful it does not brown. Add

the flour, and mix until smooth with a wooden

spoon. Cook a minute or two, then draw the

pan to the side of the fire, and pour in the liquid.

Return to the fire, and stir constantly until

boiUng. Add the capers, roughly chopped, and

season to taste with white pepper and salt. Boil

two or three minutes longer, and add the vinegs*

last.

Celery Sauce

{Fr. Sauce C6\6n)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

3 gills White Stock or Milk.

1 head of Celery.

White Pepper and Salt.

2 table-spoonfuls Cream.

Method. - Wash the celery, cut it in shreds, and

stow it slowly in the stock or milk until tender.

Then rub as much as possible through a hair or

fine wire sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan,

add the flour and cook two or three minutes.

Poizr in the celery puree and stir until boiling.

Add seasoning to taste and the cream at the

last.

Chaudfrold Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Chaudfroid)

Ingredients -

} pint Bechamel or Velout6 I 2 or 3 table-spoonfuK liquid

Sauce (see Kecipes). I Aspic,

Method. - Add the aspic to the sauce, boil for

a few minutes, and strain or tammy before

using.

Note. - This sauce is used for coating large or

small joints of meat, and care should be taken

to get it of the right consistency. If too thin,

it will not look well ; and if too thick, it will

have a lumpy appearance.

If aspic is not to be had, dissolve two sheets of

gelatine in a little water or stock, and strain it

into the sauce.

Brown Chaudfrold Sauce can be made in the

same way, substituting brown sauce for the

white and adding about a quarter of an ounce

meat glaze.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

143

Chestnut Sauce (White)

{Fr. Sauce aux Marrons)

Ingredients -

i lb. Chestnuts.

3 gills White Stoclc

2 table-spoonfuls Cream.

Kind of J Lemon.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Remove the brown outside skin

from the chestnuts, and throw them into a sauce-

pan of boiling water. Boil for a few minutes,

then drain and peel off the inside skin. Put

them back into the saucepan with the stock and

thinly peeled rind of half lemon, and simmer

slowly for one hour or longer until the chestnuts

are quite soft and pulpy. Rub them and the

stock through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon,

and return again to the saucepan. Add the

cream, season to taste, and stir until boiling.

Serve very hot.

Note. - Brown chestnut sauce may be made by

using half a pint of brown sauce and one gill of

brown stock instead of the white stock and

cream.

Cranberry Sauce

{Fr. Sauce aux Canneberges)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Cranberries. i 1 teacupful Water,

i oz. Brown Sugar. I

Method. - Pick and wash the cranberries and

stew them slowly with the water until reduced

to a pulp. Stir them frequently while cooking

and add the sugar at the last. Sometimes a

little port wine is added before serving.

Curry Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Carl)

Ingredients-

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

J oz. Rice Flour.

3 gills of Stock.

1 Onion.

1 lump of Sugar.

1 tea-sp. Curry Powder.

1 tea-sp. Chutney.

1 small Apple.

Pepper and Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Method. - Peel and chop the apple, and skin

and slice the onion very thinly. Melt the butter

or dripping in a small stewpan, put in the apple

and onion, and fry them for a few minutes.

Next add the curry powder, rice flour, and

chutney, and mix well together with an iron

spoon. Add the stock, and stir until boiling.

Season to taste with pepper and salt, and let the

sauce simmer for half-an-hour, or until the apple

and onion are qmte soft. If a smooth sauce is

wanted, rub through a sieve before using, and

return to the saucepan to re-heat. Add the

lemon juice and sugar just before serving, and

a table-spoonful of cream would be a great

improvement.

Note. - A stalk of rhubarb, or a few green

gooseberries, may bo used instead of the apple.

1 table-sp. bottled Chutney.

1 tea-spoonful Mustard.

1 table-sp. Worcester Sauce,

1 table-spoonful Marsala.

Devilled Sauce

{Fr. Sauce au Diable)

Ingredients -

J pint Brown Stock.

i oz. Butter.

i oz. Jblour.

i tea-sp. Bed-currant Jelly.

1 tea-spoonful Chili Vinegar.

Method. - Melt the butter in a stewpan and

brown it slightly. Add the flour, and niix until

smooth. Then draw the stewpan to the side of

the fire and pour in the stock, stir again over the

fire until boiling, when the other ingredients may

be added. (The mustard should be mixed into

a smooth paste with the Worcester sauce.)

Cook all slowly from ten to fifteen minutes, and

strain before using. Add salt if necessary.

Dutch Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Hollandaise)

Ingredients -

2 oz. Butter. i A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

1 table-spoonful Vinegar. Salt and Pepper.

2 table-spoonfuls Water. A pinch of Cayenne.

2 yolks of Eggs. 1

Method. - Put the water, vinegar, and yolks of

eggs into a saucepan, place the pan in another

saucepan of hot water, and stir over the fiire

constantly until the sauce thickens. Draw the

pan to the side of the fire, and add the butter in

small pieces, letting each piece melt before

another is added. The sauce must not boil, or

it will curdlt). Add the lemon juice, and season

to taste. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead

of plain, and is preferred by many.

Egg Sauce

{Fr. Sauce aux CEufs)

Ingredients -

5 oz. Butter. 1 hard-boiled Egg.

3 gills Milk or Fish Stock. ^^^lite Pepper.

J oz. Flour. Salt.

Method. - Make a sauce with the butter, flour,

and liquid. Chop the hard-boiled egg finely,

and add it to the sauce, with white pepper and

salt to taste. Boil two or tliree minutes longer,

and the sauce is ready.

Note. - A plainer sauce maj' be made by using

half water and half milk. Sometimes the wliito

only of the egg is used, and the yolk rubbed

tlirough a sieve, and used to decorate whatever

the sauce is poured over.

Gooseberry Sauce

{Fr. Sauce aux Groseilles)

Ingredients -

J pint Green Gooseberries.

1 gill ^^^lite Sauce.

1 dessert-spoonful Sugar.

1 oz. Butter.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

J gill of Water.

Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries, and

wash them in cold water. Put them into a stew-

144

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

pan with half a gill of cold water, put the lid on

the pan, and simmer slowly for half-an-hom-, or

until the gooseberries are quite soft, then rub

tlirough a hair sieve. Put the white sauce into

a saucepan, add to it the gooseberry pulp, the

butter and seasoning, mix well together, and stir

over the fire until boiling.

NoU!. - Rhubaj-b sauce may be meule in the

same way.

Horse-Radlsh Sauce

{Fr. Sauce au Puaifort)

Ingredienta -

2 table-spoonfuls grated

Horse-radish.

2 table-spoonfuls Vinegar.

1 tea-sp. Castor Sugar.

1 tea-sp. made Mustard.

Tepper and Salt

Metlwd. - \Vasli and scrape the horse-radish

until it is quite white, then grate it on a grater.

Put it into a basin with the other ingredients,

and mix well together. A little thick cream

added is a great improvement. Serve in a

sauce tureen.

Note. - K this sauce is to be served with hot

fish or meat, heat by standing the basin con-

taining it in a saucepan of hot water. Do not

boil or it will curdle.

1 tea-spoouful Lemon Juice.

Mattre d'Hotel Butter

Required -

1 oz. Butter.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley. I

Method. - Put all on to a plate, and with a

knife work them well together, to form a neat

pat. Stand the plate slightly on end, that the

lemon juice may run out of the butter again ;

and set in a cool place or on ice until wanted.

The parsley should be very green and very

finely chopped to make this butter look well.

Mayonnaise Sauce

{Fr. Sauco Mayonnaise)

Ingredienta -

2 yolks of Eggs.

About 1 gill Salad Oil.

1 tablesp. White Vinegar.

1 table-spoonful Tarragon

Vinegar.

White Pepper and Salt.

1 tea-sp. Chili Vinegar.

\ tea-sp. made !Mustard.

A pinch of Sugar.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - Take a basin largo enough to hold

IJ pint (the size of the basin is important), and

twist round the foot of it a cloth ^vrung out of

very cold water to keep it steady and cool while

mixing the sauce. Divide the yolks very care-

fully from the whites of the egg, and put them

into the basin with the pepper, salt, mustard,

and sugar. (The sugar may be omitted if not

liked.) Mix these well together with a wooden

spoon or small wire whisk. Cut a small wedge

fri m the cork of the salad-oil bottle, largo enough

to allow the oil to come out, drop by drop, when

it is hold up. Keep stirring the yolks all the

time with the right hand, and dropping in the

oil from the bottle with the loft, until the sauce

is so thick that it is stirred with difficulty. One

gill is about the usual quantity required for two

yolks, but there is no necessity to measure it.

Next add the vinegars gradually, and mix well.

Notes. - If this sauce is not kept cool, or the

oil mixed in too quickly, it will cvirdle. It

cannot bo made in a hurry. If it should curdle,

the fault 7nay be rem.edied by putting a fresh

yolk into another basin and adding the sauce

very slowly to it, stirring all the time. A whiter

sauce can be made by using lemon juice instead

of vinegar.

More or less vinegar may be added to the

sauce according to taste, and according to the

purpose for which it is to be used.

If used for dressing a salad, it should be

tliinned down considerably with vinegar. If

used for coating joints of meat, a little liquid

aspic is usually added to make it stiffen.

If this sauco has to be kept for several hours

before using, cover the basin containing it with

a cloth wrung out of very cold water. This will

prevent a skin forming on the top. If bottled

and kept in a cool dark place, it will bo good for

a week or longer.

Be particular to use good oil. If the taste of

the oil is not liked, two table -spoonfuls of thick

whipped cream may be stirred into the sauce

at the last, which will tone down the taste. Or

cream may bo used instead of the oil.

Melted Butter

{Fr. Beurre Fondu)

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Ingredients - •

2 oz. Fresh Butter.

Pepper and Salt. |

Method. - Put the butter into a lined sauce-

pan, and melt it gently over a slow fire. It

should not lose its creamy appearance. Add

the lemon juice and a little pepper and salt.

Serve in a hot tureen.

Mint Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Menthe)

Ingredients-

2 table-sp. finely chopped

Mint.

1 table-sp. Brown Sugar.

2 table - spoonfuls boiling

Water.

1 gill Brown Vinegar.

Method. - Put the sugar into a basin or sauce

tureen, pour over it the boiling water and stand

until dissolved. Wash the mint, which should

be young and fresh, pick it from the stalks and

chop finely. Mix all the ingredients together

and stand two or three hours before serving.

Mushroom Sauce

Sauce aux Champignons)

{Fr

Ingredienta -

k pint Brown or Madeira

Sauce.

1 gill tinned Mushrooms..

1 tea-spoonful Lemon Juice.

Metlwd. - Cut the button mu.№hroom in halves,

and let them boil quickly in a little water for

GUIDE TO COOKERY

145

seven or ten minutes. Then strain and put

them into half a pint Brown or Madeira sauce.

Let them continue to simmer in the sauce for ten

minutes, and add the lemon juice at the last.

Note. - If fresh mushrooms are used they

should be picked, washed, cut in small pieces,

and then stewed for a short time in brown stock

before the sauce is added to them.

White Mushroom Sauce may be made in the

same way as above, using white sauce instead of

the brown.

Mustard Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Moutarde)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter. 1 tea-sp. Chili Vinegar.

1 tea-spoonful Flour. 1 gill Water.

1 tea-spoonful dry Mustard. Salt.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small saucepan

without discolouring it, add the flour and

mustard, and mix until smooth with a wooden

spoon. Poui in the wat/cr, stir until boiling, and

cook three minutes. Add the vinegar and salt,

and serve hot.

Onion Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Soubise)

Ingredients -

i pint "White or Bechamel I White Pepper and Salt.

Sauce. A pinch of Cayenne.

3 or 4 large Onions. 1

Method. - Skin the onions, put them into a

saucepan with boiling water and a little salt,

and boil quickly for one hour, or until tender.

Then drain toell and chop them finely. Put this

onion pur6e into a saucepan with the sauce,

bring to the boil, am/! reduce if necessary.

Season to taste with white pepper, salt, and a

pinch of cayenne.

Note. - A smoother sauce may be made by

rubbing the onions through a sieve after chopp-

ing. One or two table-spoonfuls of cream are

an improvement.

Oyster Sauce

(Fr. Sauce aux Huitres)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

i pint Milk or Fish Stock.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

1 dozen Oysters and their

Liquor.

J gill Cream.

White Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayeune.

Method. - Remove the beard and gristle from

the oysters. Cut each oyster in two, and scald

them in their own liquor - ^that is, bring them to

the boil and strain. (Keep the liquor for flavour-

ing the sauce.) Put the beards and trimmincs

of the oysters into a saucepan with the milk,

and simmer for a few minutes to extract the

flavour. Tlicn strain the milk and oyster hquor

through muslin, and keep them for making the

sauce. The trimmings of the oysters may now

be thrown away. Then make a sauce with the

butter, flour, and strained liquid. Season to

taste and put in the cream, add the oysters and

lemon juice last.

Parsley Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Maitre d'Hdtel)

Ingredients -

J oz. Butter.

i oz. Flour.

} pint Fish Stock or Meat

Boilings.

Method. - Make a sauce with the butter,

flour, and liquid. Add the parsley, pepper, and

salt, and boil two or three minutes. Squeeze

in the lemon jmce just before serving.

1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.

White Pepper and Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Poulette Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Poulette)

Ingredients-

1 pint Velout6 Sauce. | 1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.

3 or 4 Mushrooms. | 2 or 3 yolks of Eggs.

Method. - Chop the mushrooms, and simmer

them in the sauce for about fifteen minutes.

Then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire,

and add the yolks of eggs and parsley. Cook

for a minute or two, but do not boil again.

Shrimp Sauce

{Fr. Sauce aux Crevettes)

Ingredients-

I oz. Butter.

J oz. Flour.

i pint Milk or Fish Stock.

1 gill of picked Shrimps.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Make a sauce with the butter, flour,

and fish stock. Pick the slirimps, and add

them, with white pepper and salt to taste.

Squeeze in the lemon juice before serving.

Tartare Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Tartare)

Ingredients -

J pint Mayonnaise Sauce.

1 table-sp. chopped Parsley,

1 table-sp. chopped Capers.

1 table-spoonful chopped

Gherkins.

Method. - ^Make the Mayonnaise according to

directions given for that sauce, and add to it

the above ingredients.

Tomato Sauce

{Fr. Sauce aux Tomates)

Ingredients -

} oz. Butter.

J oz. Rice Flour.

5 or 6 Tomatoes.

1 oz. lean Ham.

J pint Stock.

Pepper and Salt.

A small piece of Carrot,

Celery, Turnip, Onion.

A sprig of Thyme, Mar-

joram, and Parsley.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

1 lump of Sugar.

Method - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,

put into it the ham and vegetables cut in small

146

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

pieces, and fry them a few minutes. Wipe the

tomatoes, and cut them in slices on a plate.

Add them next to the saucepan with the rice

flour, and mix well. Pour in the stock, and stir

until boiling. Season to taste ^\'ith pepper and

salt, and simmer slowly for at least half-an-hour,

stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too

thick, add more stock. Strain through a fine

strainer, hair sieve, or tammy, re-heat, and add

a squeeze of lemon juice and a lump of sugar.

Note. - Tinned tomatoes may be used instead

of fresh, and these will not require sUcing. If

the stock is well flavoured, the vegetables may

be omitted.

Velout6 Saace

(Fr. Sauce Velout^)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter. I A few drops of Lemon Juice.

J oz. Flour. White Pepper and Salt.

J pint White Stock. | A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - JIake in the same way as wliite

sauce, using the stock instead of milk.

White Sauce

Ingredients -

J oz. Butter.

i oz. Flour,

J pint Milk.

{Fr. Sauce Blanche)

White Pepper.

Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small lined

saucepan, add the flour, and mix smoothly with

a wooden spoon. Cook for a minute or two

over the fire without discolouring, then draw

the pan to the side and pour in the milk. Retiu-n

to the fire, and keep stirring constantly until

boiling. Boil for two or three minutes so as to

thoroughly cook the flour, and season to taste

with white pepper and salt. Remove the pan

from the fire before adding the lemon juice.

Note. - A plainer sauce can be made by using

half milk and half water. If required for fish,

fish stock may bo used instead of milk.

Cornflour is sometimes used instead of flour.

SWEET SAUCES

Apricot Sauce

{Fr. Sauce a rAbricot)

Ingredients -

ll gills Apricot Purie. I 1 dessert-spoonful Sugar,

i oz. Arrowroot. ' 2 or 3 drops of Carmine.

J gill Water.

Method. - Make the pur6o from tinned apricots

by rubbing four or five pieces through a hair

sieve and making up the quantity with the

Bvrup. Put this pur(5e into a small lined sauce-

pan, ewid to it the arrowroot broken with the

cold water, and stir over the fire until it boils

and thickens. Add the sugar, flavouring, and

enough carmine to make it a pretty pink colour.

Cook two or three minutes longer, and serve.

Brandy Sauce (1)

(Fr. Sauce au Cognac)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter. IJ gills Water,

i oz. lloor. i glass Brandy.

1 oz. Sugar.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small lined

saucepan, add the flour, and mix with a wooden

spoon until smooth. Draw the pan to one side,

and pour in the water ; then return to the fire

and stir constantly until boiling. Add the

brandy and sugar, and boil a few minutes longer.

Brandy Sauce (2)

i glass of Brandy.

1 oz. Sugar.

Ingredients -

2 yolks of Eggs.

h gill Cream.

J gill Water. |

Method. - Put all the ingredients into a basin,

and stand the basin in a saucepan of slowly

simmering water. Whisk the contents with a

fork or small wire whisk from six to eight

minutes until thick and frothy, when the sauce

will be ready. Do not boil, or it will curdle.

Chocolate Sauce

{Fr. Sauce au Chocolat)

Ingredients -

1 gill Milk.

1 oz. Chocolate.

1 tea-spoonful Sugar.

1 yolk of Egg.

4 or 5 drops of Vanilla

Essence.

Method. - ^Rinse out a small lined saucepan

with cold water, and put into it the milk and

chocolate, either grated or shred down finely

with a knife. Simmer until quite dissolved.

Mix the yolk of egg and sugar together in a

ba.sin, and pour the chocolate gradually on to

them. Retiu-n to the saucepan, and stir over

the fire until almost boiling. Remove at once,

and add the flavouring.

Custard Sauce

{Fr. Creme Cuite)

Ingredients -

2 yolks of Efrgs. 1 dessert-spoonful Sugar.

1 white of Egg. A few drops of Flavouring.

i pint of Milk.

Method. - ^Rinse out a small lined saucepan

with cold water, put the milk into it, and let it

heat over the fire. Put the yollcs and white of

egg into a beisin with the sugar, and mix them

well together with a wooden spoon. Then pour

the hot milk gradually on to them, stirring all

the time, and mix thoroughly. Return all to

the saucepan, and stir very carefully over the

fire until the sauce thickens. On no account

must it be allowed to boil, or it will curdle.

Have ready at hand a clean basin and a strainer.

As soon eis the sauce shows signs of thickening,

and it is almost boiling, remove the pan from the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

147

fire, continue stirring for a second or two, then

strain into the basin. Add flavouring to taste.

To keep the sauce warm, stand the basin con-

taining it in a saucepan of hot, not boiling water.

Note. - The sauce may be made richer by

using more yolks of eggs and no whites.

Ingredients -

2 oz. Fresh Butter.

i oz. Castor Sugar.

2 whites of Eggs.

Hard Sauce

A few drops of Vanilla or

1 dessert-spoonful Brandy,

Sherry, or Liqueur.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

2 or 3 drops of Carmine.

Method. - Warm the butter very slightly in a

basin, but be careful not to oil it. Sieve the

sugar over it, and beat these two together with

a wooden spoon until they are -vevy white and

light. Then add the whites of egg whipped to

a stiff froth, and beat again for a few minutes.

Flavour to taste, and set the sauce in a cool

place or on ice to harden. Serve as cold as

possible.

Jam Sauce

{Fr. Sauce au Confiture)

Ingredients -

2 table-spoonfuls Red Jam.

1 gill of Water.

1 oz. Loaf Sugar.

Method. - Put the water, sugar, and jam into a

small lined saucepan, and let them boil quickly

for a few minutes, skimming if necessary. Add

the lemon juice and two or three drops of carmine.

Strain before using.

Note. - Raspberry or strawberry jam is to be

preferred for making this sauce.

A little wine may be udded.

Lemon Sauce

{Fr. Sauce Citron)

Ingredients -

i oz. Arrowroot IJ gills Water.

Bind and juice of i Lemon. J oz. Butter.

1 oz. Sugar.

Method. - Wipe the lemon with a damp cloth

and grate off half the rind on to the top of the

sugar. Grate very lightly, being most particular

not to take any of the white, as it is bitter.

Work the lemon rind and sugar together until

they are well blended. Break the arrowroot

with a little of the water, then add the rest of the

water, and pour into a saucepan. Stir over the

fire until boiling, add the lemon sugar, and the

lemon juice strained, and cook for a few minutes.

Break the buttc in small pieces, and put it in

just before serving.

Orange Sauce

{Fr. Sauce a 1' Orange)

Ingredients -

J oz. Arrowroot I Juice of 1 Orange.

1 oz. Sugar. J 2 table-spoonfuls Water.

Method. - Squeeze and strain the orange juice

into a saucepan. Break the arrowroot with the

water, and add it to the orange juice. Stir these

over the fire until boihng, then boil for a few

minutes and add the sugar. If too thick, a

little more orange juice may be added. Strain

before using.

Pineapple Sauce

{Fr. Sauce a I'Ananeis)

Ingredients -

J gill Pineapple Syrup.

2 oz. Pineapple.

I oz. Sugar.

A few drops of Carmine.

Method. - Strain the pineapple syrup into a

small saucepan, and add all the other ingredients.

Boil for a, few minutes, and remove any scum

that rises.

Sweet White Sauce

Ingredients -

2 table-spoonfuls Water or

Wine.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

1 dessert-spoonful of Sugar.

A little Flavouring.

1 oz. Butter,

i oz. Flour.

i pint Milk.

Method. - ^Make in the same way as white

sauce (p. 146), adding sugar instead of pepper

and salt.

Wine Sauce

Make in the same way as Brandy Sauce, using

one wine-glassful of sherry instead of brandy.

VEGETABLES AND SALADS

General Notes on Vegetables

To havi vegetables in perfection they should

be cooked very soon after they are taken from

the gi-ound. If freshly gathered out of the

garden they should be washed just before they

are cooked, but when bought in the shops, it

is often necessary to soak them in water for

some time that they may regain some of their

original freshness.

To secure a good colour and flavour in vege-

tables when cooked, careful dressing and pre-

paration beforehand are essential. Earthy

roots, such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, "&c.,

must be both well scrubbed and thoroughly

rinsed in cold water before peeling.

All vegetables, such as cauliflower, cabbage,

sprouts, &c., which may contain slugs, must

be soaked in cold water with vinegar in it for

some time before cooking.

148

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Coarse or discoloured leaves and any daxk

or decayed spots should be removed from all

vegetables before cooking.

Throw aU vegetables as they are prepared

into cold water.

To Prepare Vegetables

A Carrot. - Wash in cold water, brushing well

with a vegetable brush. Then cut oS the top

and any green part, and with a knife scrape

the outside lightly until the carrot is quite clean.

Scrape from the thick end downwards, and do

not take off any more than is necessary, as the

best part of the carrot lies on the outside.

Throw into clean water until required.

A Turnip. - Wash in cold water and brush well

with a vegetable brush. Then with a knife

cut off the top, and peel rather thickly, as far

as a yellow line which will be seen a little way

in from the skin. The outside of the turnip

is hard, indigestible, and bitter in flavour.

Throw into clean water until wanted.

An Onion. - Cut off the root and top, and

remove all the brown outside skin. If the

strong flavour is objected to, put the onion into

a small basin with a pinch of salt, or small piece

of washing soda. Cover it with boiling water,

and let it stand for at least five minutes. The

water in which it soaks turns quite green in

colour.

Note. - The preparation of other vegetables

will be described under their special headings.

The Cooking and Serving of Vegetables

As a rule the ordinary cook pays far too little

attention to this branch of cookery, although,

thanks to the growing popularity of vegetari-

anism, more efficiency in this department of the

culinary art is now demanded.

Vegetables boiled in water {cuit & I'eau), as

often as not without salt, and served, or rather

tmnbled, into a vegetable dish without further

attention would be looked down upon with

Bcom by the French housewife and reg8U"ded as

something almost savage.

Take, for example, the potato, which is one of

our most useful vegetables and without which

no dinner is thought to be complete- why is it

that in nine cases out of ten it is the boiled

potato wo see ? Simply because our cooks do

not exercise a little ingenuity and seldom care

to bestow a little extra trouble on so simple a

dish. In fact the throwing away of cold cooked

potatoes is one of the commonest forms of waste

in the kitchens both of the rich and of the poor ;

and yet the variety of wa5's in which a potato

can be cooked and a cold one re-cooked are

almost legion.

The cooking of vegetables requires as much

care as the cooking of moat or the turning out

of a pudding, and the simplicity of the opera-

tion should not be an excuse for slovenliness;

a vegetable must be taistefully seasoned, well

served, and temptingly arranged, with an eye

to colour. Those little attentions will give a

special air of finish to the simplest cuisine, and

a well-prepared vegetable, instead of forming a

mere adjunct to another dish, can often be served

Bs a separate course, thus saving a joint or

avoiding the necessity for another meat dish.

Steaming of Vegetables

This is one of the best and most successful

ways of cooking vegetables. The old-fashioned

method of boiling them in a quantity of water

and then throwing that water

away h£is much to condemn it,

as so many of the valuable

properties are lost in the water.

A steam cooker is a most

valuable addition to any kitchen

- there are several different

makes, and the prices range

from 5s. upwards, according to

the number of steamers. Tliey

axe particularly viseful and

economical on a gas stove,

where one light will serve to

cook meat, fish, one or two

vegetables, and a pudding if

necessary. The time for steam-

ing will depend upon the kind

of vegetable and also upon

its freshness. Full instructions

for use are generally given with

each kind of steamer. See also under separate

recipes.

Hatchings' Patent

Cooker.

Vegetables Cooked "En Casserole"

This is another excellent method for cooking

the lighter vegetables, and various recipes are

Fireproof Pot.

given to show how a vegetable may be both

cooked and served up in this clean and useful

fireproof cooking-pot.

Vegetarianism

It is impossible to deal with vegetarianism

fully in a book of this kind. The subject is

one which opens out so many important ques-

tions that it would require a book itself in order

GUIDE TO COOKERY

149

to do it justice. Suffice it to say, however, that

it does not do to give up a meat diet suddenly

and live on vegetables such as one finds in

the ordinary English cuisine. There must be

something to take the place of meat if the body

is to be built up as it ought to be, and any one

wishing to follow this regime could not do

better than write to some speciahst such as

Eustace IMiles, Chandos Street, London, who will

supply pamphlets and give all particulars about

a non-meat diet, or to the Reform Food Co.,

4 Furnival Street, Holbom, London, who will

also give valuable information about a special

vegetai'ian diet.

Globe Artichokes (to Boil)

{Fr. Artichauts au Natural)

Cut the stem off even with the leaves, remove

the haxdest bottom leaves, and cut about an inch

off the others at the top, thus making an open-

ing in the centre of the artichoke. Wash the

artichokes thoroughly, and soak them in cold

water \rith a few drops of \anegar in it for

half -an -hour, to draw out any insects. Lift

them out, rinse in cold water, and place upside

down in a colander or sieve to drain. Have

ready on the fire a deep saucepan tliree psirts

full of boiling water salted in the proportion of

one dessert-spoonful of salt to one quart of water.

Put the artichokes into this, and boil quickly

for half-an-hour or longer. To ascertain when

they are ready, pierce with a skewer or triissing

needle, which should enter easily, or try if the

leaves can easily be removed. Drain well, cut

them in halves or quarters with a sharp knife,

remove the hard inside or " choke " with a

spoon, and dish on a folded napkin.

Different sauces may be served separately,

ti^ dish taking its name from the sauce, thus : -

Served '*h -

French

llelted Butter- Artichauts au Beurre.

Bechamel Sauce- Artichauts a la Bechamel.

Dutch Sauce- Artichauts i la HoUandaise.

Or cold with Oil and Vinegar- Artichauts a. I'Huile.

Note. - Only the bottom of the artichoke and

base of the leaves are eatable.

Jerusalem Artichokes with White Sauce

{Fr. Topinambours h la Sauce Blanche)

Ingredients -

1 to li lbs. Jerusalem Arti- i J pint White Sauce,

chokes. I

Methol. - First wash and brush the artichokes

thoroughly, and tlirow them into clean cold

water. Then peel them carefully with a small

knife, and as each one is done, tlirow it into

another basin of fresh cold water with a few

drops of vinegar or bmon juice to preserve the

colour. Do not allow the water in which the

artichokes are being pooled to become too dirty ;

change it if necessary. Have ready on the

fire a Uned or earthenwaie saucepan with just

sufficient boihng water to cover the artichokes,

and salted in the proportion of one tea-spoonful

to one pint of water. Drain the artichokes and

throw them into this, and cook them gently

with the Ud on the saucepan from fifteen to

twenty minutes, or until they can be pierced

fairly easily with a skewer. Or put them into

a double cooker and steam them for half-an-

hour. Strain off the water, pour in the white

sauce, and finish the cooking over a slow fire.

A Httle finely-chopped parsley may be added

at the last, or one or more tablespoonfuls of

grated Parmesan.

Note. - They can also be served with brown,

tomato, or HoUandaise sauce.

Asparagus

(Fr. Asperges)

Choose the asparagus with fresh purple points

and wliite stalks. If the cut end is brown and

dry and the heads droop, the asparagus is stale.

It may be kept for a day or two by standing the

stalks in a jug of cold water, but is better used

fresh. Cut the asparagus aU one length, scrape

the white part hghtly with a knife, and wash

in cold water. Tie with tape into bundles of

eight or ten, keeping the heads all one way.

Asparagus Cooker.

and cook in a steamer over boihng salted water

until the vegetable is tender, from thirty to forty

nrunutes. Or what is better still, cook it in an

asparagus cooker •nliich has an arrangement

whereby the stalks only are in the water wliile

the points are cooked by steam. When eis-

paragus is done, which is ascertained by press-

ing the points with the fingers, it should be

taken up at once, else it will become flabby and

spongy. Drain well and send it to table on a

folded napkin or in an asptiragus dish.

Asparagus may be served witli many different

sauces.

Served with - Frcixch

Melted or oiled Butter- Asperges au Beurre.

White Sauce - Asperges a la Sauce Blanche.

Dutch Sauce- Asperges Ji la HoUandaise.

Or cold with Oil and Vinegar- Asperges ii I'HuUe.

150

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Beetroot (to Boll)

{Fr. Botteravos au Naturel)

Required -

Beetroots. I Salt.

Boiling Water. I

Method. - Wash tho beetroots very gently and

carefully. On no account must the skin be

broken, or tho juice will run out, and the colour

of the beetroots be spoilt. Put them into a

saucepan of boiling water large enough to hold

them without breaking. Add salt in the pro-

portion of one dessert-spoonful to one quart,

and boil gently with the lid on the pan. Tliey

will take from two to three hours to cook, accord-

ing to age and size. To test them, hft them

out of the water, and press them with the finger ;

they should feel rather soft. Never pierce a

beetroot with a fork. When ready, drain, and

put them on a plate. If to be served hot, peel

them quickly, cut in thin slices, and arrange

these in a hot vegetable dish, and pour white

or any other suitable sauce over. Small beet-

roots may be served whole.

Broad or Windsor Beans (to Boil)

(Fr. Feves)

Beans to be nice must be young and freshly

gathered. They should not be shelled until

about to be cooked. After shelling, wash and

drain them. If old, the skins should also be

removed before cooking. To do this, put the

beans into a basin with boiUng water to cover

them, stand for a few minutes, then drain, and

remove the skins. Throw into a saucepan of

fast-boiling water, salted in the proportion of

one dessert-spoonful to a quart, and boil rapidly

until tender. They will take from fifteen

minutes to half-an-hour, according to age and

size. Any scum rising on the water must be

removed. When ready, drain in a colander,

return the beans to the pan with a small piece

of butter, season with pepper and salt, and shake

over the fire for a few minutes. Beans are

frequently served as an accompaniment to

boiled bacon, but should always be cooked

separately.

Broad Beans k la Poulette

(Fr. Feves a la Poulette)

Ingredients -

1 pint Shelled Beans.

1 gill White Stock.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of .Sugar.

i oz. Butter.

Method. - Prepare tho beans (removing the

skins), boil until tender and drain well in a

colander. Melt tho butter in a small stowpan,

add the flour, and stir over the fire for two

or three minutes ; then povir in the stock.

J oz. Flour.

1 gill of Cream.

1 yolk of EKg.

\ tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs.

and stir until boiling. Put in the beans,

season with pepper, salt, and tho herbs very

finely powdered. Simmer five or ten minutes,

then draw the pan to the side of tho fire ; add

the yolk of egg and cream, stir and make

thoroughly hot, but do not boil again. Sorvљ

at once in a hot vegetable dish.

Brussels Sprouts

(Fr. Choux de Biuxelleb au Bourre)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Brussels Sprouts.

Boiling Water.

Pepper and Salt

1 oz. Butter.

Method. - Wash the Brussels sprouts carefully,

and trim them, cutting away any outside dis-

coloured leaves. Make a sUt across the stalk

of each to allow them to cook more easily,

and as they axe prepared, throw them into a

basin of clean cold water with one tea-spoonful

of vinegar added, to draw out any insects.

Let them soak in this from twenty to thirty

minutes, then rinse and drain in a colander.

Cook them in a perforated steamer (see p. 148)

until quite tender, about half-an-hoiu*. Test

them by trying if they can easily be pierced

with a fork, and do not overcook them. When

ready, drain well. Melt the butter in the pan,

toss the sprouts in this, sprinkling them with

pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Sometimes

a little cream is added.

Carrots ^ la Flamande

(Fr. Garottes a la Flamande)

Ingredients -

J gill Cream.

1 yolk of Egg.

\ tea-spoonful

Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

chopped

6 or 8 young Carrots.

Boiling Water.

Salt.

i gill Water.

2 oz. Butter.

Method. - Wash and scrape the carrots very

lightly, cutting off the green tops. Put them

into an earthenware casserole with boiling water

to cover them and salted in the proport-'on of

one dessert-spoonful to one quart ; boil ten

minutes, and strain. Then cut the carrots into

thin slices, and return them to the casserole

with the butter, half gill of water, pepper, and

salt. Put on the Ud, and simmer for twenty

minutes. When the carrots are tender, add the

yolk of egg and cream, beaten together, and

the chopped parsley ; stir carefully over the

fire until thick, but do not boil. Serve hot

en casserole.

Cabbages with Butter

(Fr. Choux au Bourre)

Take one or two young cabbages and trim

them carefully, removing the outside leaves and

any discoloured parts. Cut in three or four

pieces according to size and wash in plenty of

cold water. Then soak in cold water with a

GUIDE TO COOKERY

151

few drops of vinegar to draw out any slugs,

and rinse again in fresh cold water. Place the

prepared cabbage in a steamer, sprinkle with

salt and st"am from three-quarters to one hour,

or until tender. Score across with a knife and

serve in a hot dish with a good pat of salt butter

on the top.

Cauliflower with White Sauce

(Fr. Choufleur a la Sauce Blanche)

Required -

1 Cauliflower. I Salt.

Boiling Water. I White Sauce.

Method. - Select a fresh cauliflower with firm,

close head. Trim off the thick part of the stalk,

and nearly all the leaves, only leaving on a

few of the smaller ones to protect the flower.

Make a cut across the stalk in both directions

so that it may cook more easily. Wash the

cauliflower in plentj' of cold water, and then

let it lie ioi half-pn-hour in fresh cold water,

to which one tea-spoonful of vinegar has been

added, to draw out any insects. Cook it in a

steamer until the flower feels tender but not

broken from thirty to forty minutes. When

ready, lift it out, drain for a minute or two,

and serve in a hot vegetable dish with white or

any other suitable sauce poured over it.

Cauliflower with Cheese

{Fr. Choufleur au Fromage)

Ingredients -

1 Cauliflower. I 1 gill of Water.

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - Prepare and cook the cauliflower

as above, drain and break it up into small,

neat pieces. jNIake a sauce with the butter,

flour and water, adding the cream, seasoning

and rather more than half the cheese. Butter

a fireproof fancy dish, and arrange in it the

cauliflower and sauce in alternate layers.

Sprinkle the remainder of the cheese over the

top, pour a little melted butter over and place

the dish in the oven to brown.

Note. - The remains of cold cooked cauliflower

may be used up in this way.

Chestnuts

{Fr. MjuTons)

These may be prepared in different ways and

make a good winter vegetable. Wash the nuts

and make a slit in the skin at the stalk end.

Put them into boiling salted water and cook

them until tender from twenty to thirty minutes.

Then drain, remove the skins, and serve them

quickly with a little melted butter, salt, and

wliite pepper. Or they may be served in a

good brown or tomato sauce.

A Chestnut Pur6e too is very good as an

2 table-spoonfiils Cream.

2 oz. grated Parmesan

Cheese.

accompaniment to roast fowl or beef. Cook

the nuts as above and rub them through a sieve.

Re-heat with a Uttle butter, seasoning, and

enough brown sauce to bind all together and

make the mixture of a right consistency.

Celery with Cream (to Stew)

(Fr. Celeri a la Creme)

Required -

1 head of Celery.

i pint "White Stock

Broth.

Pepper and Salt.

i gill Cream.

i oz. Butter.

i oz. Flour.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

Method. - Wash the celery and cut it in con-

venient-sized pieces. Put the stock or broth

into a saucepan, and when hot put in the celery

and parboil it. Then strain, and naake a sauce

with the butter, flour, and stock. Add the

cream, season to taste. Retiirn the celery to

the saucepan and allow it to simmer slowly

in the sauce until it is quite tender. A few

sippits of toast or a little chopped parsley may

be used as a garnish. Or the celery may be

cooked and served en casserole.

Required -

Celery.

A little Flour.

Celery (to Fry)

{Fr. Celeri Frit)

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

Frying Fat.

Method. - Prepare the celery, cut it in short

lengths, ard cook in salted water until fairly

tender. Drain it well, and spread the pieces

out on a cloth to dry. Dip the pieces first into

a little flour, coating them hghtly ; then egg

and bread-crumb them and fry in boiling fat

until a nice brown colour, and drain well on

kitchen paper. Dish them up, cross bars, on

a hot dish, with a d'oyley or dish paper under

them, sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan,

and garnish with parsley.

Note. - Frjnng batter may be used instead of

egg and bread-crumbs.

Cucumber

(Fr. Concombre)

Cook in the same way as vegetable marrow

(see p. 159).

Ingredients-

Curried Vegetables

{Fr. Legumes en Caii)

Curry Sauce (see p. 143).

Any kind of cooked Vegetable.

Boiled Rice.

Method. - Any cooked vegetable may be used

for a curry, such as turnip, carrot, cauliflower,

vegetable marrow, beans, &c., or a mixture of

vegetables. If large, cut them in smedl neat

pieces. Make the curry sauce rather thick.

When made, put the cooked vegetables into it.

152

THE wo]sl\:n's book

and let them simmer for a few minutes, so sa

to get thoroughly heated and flavoured with

the sauce. Serve on a hot dish with a border

of boiled rice (see p. 157) round, or the rice may

be served in a separate dish.

Egg-Plant (to Fry)

{Fr. Aubergine Frit)

Required -

Egg-plant I Frying Fat.

Egg and Bread-crumbs. 1

Method. - Cut the egg-plant in sUces about a

quarter of an inch thick. Peel the slices, and

let them soak in strong salt and water, propor-

tion one table-spoonful to one pint, for two hours

to remove the bitterness. Drain and wipe each

slice dry in a towel. Egg and bread-crumb the

slices, and fry in boiling fat luitil nicely browned.

Drain on kitchen paper, and serve piled up on a

hot dish with a d'oyley or dish paper under

them. Garnish with parsley.

Note. - Egg-plants should be fresh and glossy

looking when piu-chased, or the cooking of them

■will not be successful.

They may also be split and baked simply

with a little butter,

Egg-PIant (Stuffed)

{Fr. Aubergines Farcies)

Required -

2 Egg-plants.

2 table-spoonfuls

Bread-

crumbs.

1 table-spoonful chopped

Ham or Tongue,

1 tea-spoonful chopped

Onion.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 oz. Butter.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Mushrooms,

Pepper and Salt.

Some beaten Egg.

A little grated Lemon Rind,

Method. - Wipe the egg-plants, and cut them

in half lengthways. Scoop out the meat,

leaving the rind about half an inch thick, that

the shape may be firm. Melt the butter in a

small saucepan, add the chopped onion, and

cook a few minutes. Then add the bread-

crumbs, ham or tongue, mushrooms, parsley,

and the pulp from egg-plants chopped finely.

Season with popper, salt, and a little grated

lemon rind, and add sufficient beaten egg to

bind all together. Sprinkle the inside of the

egg-plants with broad-crumbs, popper and salt,

and fill up with the mixture. Spread a few

more crumbs on the surface of the mixture, and

place the pieces on a greased tin or saut6 pan.

Cover with greased paper, and bake in a moderate

oven for one hour. Serve hot on a folded

d'oyley.

Endive (Dressed)

{Fr. Chicoree)

Required -

2 or 3 Endives.

Boiling ^yate^.

Salt

1 oz. Butter.

1 table-spoonful Cream.

Lemon Juice.

Pepper and Salt

Method. - Wash the endives carefully, sepa-

rating the leaves and removing any decayed

parts. Let them soak for half-an-hour in clean

cold water, to which one tea-spoonful of vinegar

has been added to draw out any insects. Then

drain and steam according to directions given

on p. 150, until the loaves feel quitљ tender,

from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. Next

chop the endives finely, or rub through a wire

sieve ; the latter mode is preferable. JIake hot

again in the pan with the butter and cream,

and season to taste with pepper, salt, and a

squeeze of lemon juice. Dish in the shape of

a pyramid in a hot vegetable dish, scoring up

the sides with a fork, and decorate with sippets

of toast or slices of hard-boiled egg.

Note. - Lettuce may be cooked in the sajne

way.

Flageolets

Wash the flageolets, and let them soak in cold

water overnight. Next day drain, and put

them in a saucepan with fresh cold water, and

boil slowly until tender (about two hours).

Then serve in the same way as green peas

(see p. 153),

Note. - ^They are good also as a puree made in

the same way as puree of green peas.

Freoch Beans

{Fr. Haricots Verts au Naturel)

Choose young fresh beans ; when old they

are tough and stringy when cooked. First wash

them well in cold water, then cut off the heads

and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the

bean to remove the strings. Lay several

together, and cut them into thin strips length-

ways or across in a slanting direction into

lozenge -shaped pieces. As they are cut drop

them into cold water, with a small quantity

of salt in it. Have ready on the fire a saucepan

of boiling water, salted in the proportion of one

dessert-spoonful to one quart ; drain the beans

well, and tlirow them into this. Boil quickly

from twenty to thirty minutes with the lid off

the saucepan, removing any scum as it rises.

When the beans are ready they will sink to

the bottom of the pan, and must be taken off

the fire at once. Drain well in a colander,

return them to the pan, and shako over the

fire to dry up the moisture from the beans ;

add a small piece of butter, popper and salt,

and keep moving the pan until the butter is

melted, and the beans thoroughly hot. Do not

stir the beans with a spoon, as it is apt to break

them. Serve them up as quickly as possible.

Very young beans are sometimes cooked whole.

Scarlet runners may be cooked in the same way.

Sometimes a little lemon juice and some

finely chopped parsley are added to the beans ;

they are then called French Beans a la MaJtre

d'Hotel {Fr. Haricots Verts a la Maltre d'Hotel).

GUIDE TO COOKERY

153

Green Peas

(Fr. Petits Pois au Naturel)

Required -

J peck Peas.

1 oz. Butter.

1 or 2 sprigs of Mint.

White Pepper and Salt.

1 tea-spoonful Demerara

Sugar.

Method. - Shell the peas a very short time

before they are to be cooked, otherwise they

become hard. Wash them in cold water and

drain well. Put them into a lined or earthen-

ware saucepan with just sufficient boiling water

to cover them, add the mint, salt, and sugar,

and simmer slowly with the lid off the saucepan

until the peas are nearly tender, from twenty

to thirty minutes. Add the butter, sprinkle

with pepper, and allow them to finish cooking,

shaking the pan occasionally. Lift out the

mint and serve the peas very hot. A little

chopped parsley may be added.

Green Peas with Lettuces

{Fr. Petits pois aux Laitues)

Cook the peas as above, adding one or two

young lettuces cut in shreds. If desired a

thickening maj be added made of two yolks of

eggs beaten up with two table -spoonfuls of

milk or cream. The mixture should not boil

after these are added, but must be gently stirred

to cook the eggs.

Green Pea Pur^e

{Fr. Puree de Petits Pois)

When the peas become too old for serving

whole, they can very well be made into a pur^e.

Boil them in salted water until tender, then

drain and pass them through a sieve. Return

them to the saucepan with a good piece of butter

and enough hot milk or cream to moisten.

Add seasoning and a very little sugar. This

may either be served separately along with meat,

or kept fairly tliick and pressed through a

forcing bag as a garnish for the centre of an

entree or as a fancy border.

Note. - Dried green peas may be used, but

they require soaking and long boiling to make

them tender.

Haricot Beans ^ la Maitre d'Hotel

{Fr. Haricots Blancs a la Maitre d'Hotel)

Ingredients -

J lb. Haricot Beans. I i oz. Butter.

1 small Onion. 1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Cold Water. 1 White Pepper and Salt

Metltod. - Wash the haricot beans, and let

them soak in cold water overnight to soften

them. Next day put them into a saucepan

with plenty of cold water, and the onion skinned

and cut in foiu-. Let them boil from two to

two and a half hours, or until they feel qmte

soft. The time will vary according to the age

and size of the beans used. If the water boils

away while they are cooking, add more cold

water. Keep the lid on the pan, and let the

water boil steadily all the time. When ready,

drain in a colander, and lift out the pieces of

onion. Return the beans to the pan, and let

them stand by the side of the fire with the lid

partially off, to allow them to dry ; then add

the butter, parsley, pepper, and salt. Shake

the beans over the fire for a minute or two, and

serve them hot. Do not stir with a spoon, as

it is apt to break them. A squeeze of lemon

juice is sometimes added, or they may be served

with parsley sauce poured over them.

Note. - The water in which the beans have

been cooked should be reserved for making a

sauce or put into the stock-pot.

Haricot Bean Rissoles

Ingredients -

1 lb. cooked Haricot Beans.

1 oz. Dripping.

1 Onion.

1 oz. Butter.

lEgg.

A little Flour.

Pepper and Salt.

Bread-crumbs.

Method. - ^Rub the beans through a wire sieve,

and add to them the butter, seasoning, and

enough beaten egg to bind all together. Allow

the mixture to cool, then form it into balls with

the aid of a little flour. Egg and bread-crumb

these, and fry them in boiling fat to a nice brown

colour. Drain on kitchen paper, and serve the

fritters hot garnished with parsley.

Required -

\ lb. Crones.

1 oz. Butter.

Japanese Crones

{Fr. Crones Japonaises)

1 table-spoonful Cream.

Salt and Pepper.

Method. - ^This is a vegetable wliich has not

yet become very popular, but it is very light,

and well worth eating. Crones have a slight

resemblance to Jerusalem artichokes, only they

are very much smaller. Trim the ends of the

crones, and wash and brush them well in cold

water. Warm the butter in an earthenware

saucepan, put in the crones, and cook them

in the oven from twenty to thirty minutes,

shaking them from time to time. Add the

cream and seasoning a few minutes before

serving.

Note. - ^They must not be overcooked or the

flavour will be spoilt.

A good whitљ sauce with cream may be added

at the last, or the crones may be served in small

scallop shells with the sauce over and a little

grated Parmesan on the top.

Stewed Leeks

{Fr. Poireaux au Jus)

I Some light Stock.

I Pepper and Salt

Required -

6 Leeks.

J oz. Butter.

Method. - Trim off the root, the green ends,

and the outer leaves of the leeks. Split them

154

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

down the middle, wasli thorougUy, and lot them

lie in cold water with a little vinegar for half-

an-hour. Then drain, cut in convenient-sized

pieces, and wash again in fresh cold water.

Put the looks into a Uned or earthenware sauce-

pan with enough stock to cover thorn, and stew

slowly until they are quitљ tender, from thirty

to forty minutes. Allow the stock to reduce

until there is just sufficient to serve as gravy.

Seeison \^4th salt and pepper, and add a small

piece of butter just before serving.

Lentils k la Bretonne

{Fr. Lentilles a la Bretonne)

Ingredients -

li tea-cupfuls of Lentils. 3 t"a-cupfuls of Cold Water.

2 ox. Ilam Fat. 1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Pepper and Salt, 1 Shallot (finely chopped).

Method. - Wash the lentils in several waters.

Put them into a basin with three cupfuls of cold

water. Cover over and soak all night. Next

day put them into a saucepan with the water

in which they have been soaked, the ham fat

(cooked or uncooked) cut in very small pieces,

the shalot, a pinch of pepper, and a very little

salt. Simmer slowly for two hours until you

have a smooth thick puree. It will be necessary

to stir from time to time, and if the mixture

becomes too dry, to add more water. Add the

parsley at the last, and serve very hot.

Macaroni and Walnut Scallops

Ingredients -

2 oz. MacaronL

3 oz. shelled Walnuts.

1 tea-sp. Chopped I'arsley.

Bread-crumbs.

I 1 oz. Butter.

1 table-siwonful Brown or

Tomato Sauce.

1 Salt and Pepper.

Method. - Cook the macaroni and cut it into

half'inch lengths. Roast the walnuts for a few

minutes and chop them

moderately fine. Mix these

two together with the sauce,

parsley, and seasoning.

Then grease out a few scallop

shells and sprinkle thom with

bread-crumbs. Fill them with

the mixture, sprinkle with

more bread-crumbs, and put

the butter in small pieces on the top.

Scallop SheU.

Mushrooms (to Stew)

{Ft. Champignons au Jus)

Ingredients -

) lb. ifushrooms.

i oz. Butter.

1 gill of Stock.

1 tea-spoonful Flour.

1 table-spoonful Cream.

Pepper and Salt.

A slice of Toast.

Lemon Juice.

cloth. If small, they may be left whole ; but

if large, cut in pieces, it will make a neater

dish. Put them into an eaxthenwaro casserole,

and sprinkle with pepper, salt, and a good

squeeze of lemon juice. Put the lid on the pan,

and stew very slowly for ten minutes. Add the

stock very gradually to the flour in a basin,

mixing with a spoon until quite smooth ; poiu*

tliis in beside the ntiuslu-ooms, and stir until

boiling. Stew ten or fifteen minutes longer,

add the cream at the last, and serve very hot.

Mushrooms (Stuffed)

(Fr. Champignons Farcis)

Ingredients -

6 or 8 medium-sized Mushrooms.

6 or 8 crotitons of Fried or Toasted Bread.

Stuffing -

J oz. Butter.

1 tea-sp. chopped Onion.

Trimmings of Mushrooms.

Pepper and Salt.

1 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

1 table-sp. Stock or Gravy.

1 dessert-spoonful chopped

Ham or Tongue.

Method. - Peel the mushrooms, and cut off

the ends of the stalks. Wash them in cold

water with a little salt in it, and then dry in a

Meilwd. - Peel the mushrooms and cut off the

stalks. Throw them into a basin of cold water

and salt, and let them soak a few minutes.

Then remove and dry them. Trim them all onљ

size, keeping these trimmings to add to the

stuffing. Place the muslirooms, with the black

side uppermost, on a greased baking-tin, and

then make the stuffing. Chop the onion, mush-

room trimmings, and ham, all very finely. Melt

the butter in a small pan, add to it the chopped

ingredients, and cook for a few minutes. Tlien

add the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and stock,

and cook a few minutes longer. Put a little of

this stuffing into each mushroom, cover them

over with greased paper, and bake in a moderjitљ

oven for ten minutes. Put a dish paper on to

a hot dish, arrange the fried croutons of bread

on this, and then stand a musliroom on the top

of each. Garnish with parsley, and servo as a

vegetable entremet or savoury.

Nuts and Nut Foods

Nuts of various kinds are now becoming quite

a popular food, and instead of being used as a

mere adjunct to our dessert course they can be

made to take an important part in otir diet.

They are among the most nourishing of our

vegetable foods, and potatoes and nuts are said

to have boon the principal diet of the monks in

many of the old monasteries.

Nuts are frequently found difficult of digestion,

but this is partly owing to their being taken at

the end of an already substantial meal, or be-

cause they have not been properly prepared nor

masticated.

Tlicy form a very good substitute for meat for

those who choose to adopt a non-flesh diet, as

they contain a large amount of proteid matter

which is valuable for building up the tissues and

GUIDE TO COOKERY

155

enriching the blood. They are also rich in oil,

which supplies us with heat for the body.

Tliere are quite a variety of nuts now on the

market, both shelled and unshellod, such as the

hazel, cashew, Brazil, peanut, walnut, almond,

pignolia, chestnut, filbert, &c. Rlixed nuts are

also sold for about Is. 2d. the pound.

There are also various nut foods to be had

from the different nut food specialists, along with

special recipes for their use.and several kinds of

nut butter, which form very good frying media.

For those who go in for nut cookery to any

extent, a nut mill will be found invaluable. The

price of this little machine is from about Is. 6d.

upwards, and if the nuts are first slightly roasted

and then ground they are more likely to have a

good flavour than those bought in the ground

form.

Nut Omelet

Ingredients -

3 Eggs. I A pinch of Nutmeg.

J lb. shelled Brazil Nuts. ' Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Make in the same way as savoury

omelet (see p. 186), adding the nuts finely grated

to the eggs. When the omelet is cooked, sprinkle

a few ground nuts over the top and brown

slightly.

Nut and Potato Rissoles

Ingredients -

i lb. Cooked Potatoes,

i lb. Mixed Nuts.

■1 oz. Butter.

Pepper and Salt.

2 table-spoonfuls Milk or

■^Vhite Sauce.

1 table-sp. grated Parmesan.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

A little Flour.

Method. - Roast the nuts slightly and put them

through the mill. Meli the butter in a small

saucepan, sieve the potatoes and add them to

it with the prepared nuts, milk, and seasoning.

Mix thoroughly, and turn on to a plate to cool.

Form into balls with the help of a little flour ;

egg and bread-crumb and fry in boiling fat. (See

Potato Balls, p. 156.)

Onions " en Casserole "

(Fr. Oignions en Casserole)

Required -

3 Spanish Onions. I Pepper and Salt.

IJ oz. Ihitter or good Beef A pinch of Nutmeg.

Dripping. I

Method. - Skin and scald the onions. Then

remove some of the outer part, mince this rather

finely, and place it in the casserole with the fat

and seasoning. When hot place in the whole

onions, put on the lid, and cook slowly from

one and a half to two hours until tender.

Parsley (to Fry)

{Fr. Persil Frit)

Required -

I'arsley. | Boiling Fat or Oil.

Method. - Wash the parsley and pick it, leaving

the stalks about an inch long. Lot it lie between

the folds of a cloth until dry, and then put it

into a wire frjdng basket. Have ready on the

fire a saucepan of deep fat or oil (see French

Frying, p. 131), deep enough to cover the

parsley. Plunge the parsley into this for a

second or two, and Uft it out. The moisture in

the parsley will make the fat bubble up, and if

kept in too long will make the fat come over the

sides of the pan. When the fat becomes quite

still, plunge the parsley in again for a second or

two, and it will be ready. It ought to be quite

green and crisp. Turn on to kitchen paper and

drain well.

Note. - ^This is used as a garnish for frierl

dishes, such as fried fish, rissoles, croquettes, &c.

Pease Pudding

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Sugar.

Ingredients -

i lb. Split Peas.

1 oz. Butter.

1 Egg. 1

Method. - Wash the peas well, remove any

discoloured ones, and soak overnight in cold

water. Tie them loosely in a cloth, lea\dng

room for them to swell, and put them into a

saucepan with a good pinch of salt and enough

boiling water to cover them. Boil quickly

from two to two and a haK hoiirs, or until the

peas are quite soft. Keep them well covered

with water all the time. When ready, take

them up and drain. Tiirn the peas out of the

cloth, and rub them through a wire sieve or

colander. Add the butter, egg, well beaten,

pepper, salt, and a pinch of sugar. Beat all well

together for a few minutes until the ingredients

are thorouglily mixed, then tie up tightly in

a floured cloth. Boil the pudding for another

half-hour, turn on to a hot dish, and serve as

an accompaniment to salt beef or pork.

Potatoes (to Steam)

Required -

Potatoes. I Salt.

Boiling Water. |

Method. - Steaming is one of the simplest and

best ways of cooking potatoes. First wash and

brush the potatoes well in cold water, to get rid

of all the earth, and tlirow them into a basin of

clean cold water, ready for peeling. With a

potato-knife peel them as thinly as possible, and

with the point of the knife remove all the " eyes "

or black species, and keep tlie potatoes in water

until they are wanted. Have them all of one

size. If some are larger than others, cut them

in two or tliroe to make them equal. Put them

in a steamer and sprinkle with salt. Place the

steamer on the top of a saucepan of boiling

water, and put the lid on. Keep the water in

the saucepan underneath the potatoes quickly

boiling the wb.ole time. If tlie potatoes are

steamed in their skins, peel them before they are

quite ready, and then return them to the steamer

156

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

to finish cooking. They will require from thirty

to forty minutes, according to their size and

kind. \Vlien they can be pierced easily with a

skewer, cover them •with a clean cloth, remove

the steamer from the water and stand it in

a warm place until the potatoes are dry and

mealy. Ten minutes should bo sufficient.

Mashed Potatoes

Ingredienla -

} lb. cooked Potatoes. I 2 or 3 tablc-spoonfuls Milk.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping. [ White Pepper and Salt.

Method. - The potatoes should be well cooked,

dry and floury. Rub them quickly through a

wire sieve or put them through a vegetable

pressor. Melt the butter or dripping in a sauce-

pan and add the potatoes to it. Season to taste

with white pepper and salt, and add the milk.

Mis well together and pile up in the form of a

pjTamid on a greased tin or platљ that will stand

the heat of the oven. Smooth over and mark

with a knife or fork, and brush over with milk

or beaten egg. Bake in the oven until nicely

browned, and then with a fish slice or broad knife

slip the pudding on to a hot vegetable dish.

Note, - The yolk of an egg may be added to

the mixture, or cream may be used instead of

milk.

Potato Rice

{Fr. Pommes de Terre au Neige)

This dish is made by putting freshly boiled

potatoes through a vegetable pressor or wire

sieve, and letting them fall on to a hot vegetable

dish. The potato grains resemble rice and

make a good accompaniment to stewed or

roast meat.

Potato Balls

{Fr. Croquettes de Pommes de Terre)

Ingredients -

i lb. cooked Potatoes.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

White Pepper and .Salt.

Frying Fat.

1 yolk or i a whole Egg.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

Method. - Rub the potatoes through a wire

sieve, or press them through a vegetable pressor.

Melt the butter or dripping in a saucepan, and

put the sieved potato into it. Seeison with white

pepper and salt, and add one yolk of egg or half

a whole egg well beaten (the other half may be

used for egging and bread-crumbing). Mix all

well together, and tiom the mixture on to a

plate to cool. Then flour the hands slightly and

roll the mixture into small balls of equal size and

free from cracks. Egg and broad-crumb these

ba'ls, and fry thorn until nicely browned in

boiling fat. Do not put too many into the fat

at one time, or they will cool the fat so much

that it will soak into them and cause them

to burst. After frying, drain well on kitchen

paper, and serve on a hot dish with a dish paper

under them, and garnish with parsley.

1 yolk and 2 whites of ]

Frying Fat.

Note. - ^This mixture may be made into

different shapes, such as cutlets, conos, or small

rolls. A little chopped parsley, chopped ham

or tongue, or grated cheese may bo added to

the mixture.

Potato Fritters

{Fr. Beignets de Pommes de Terre)

Ingredients -

J lb. cooked Potatoes.

1 oz. Butter.

I'epper and Salt

Method. - Prepare the potato mixture as

above, adding the whites of eggs beaten to a

stiff froth at the last and mixing them in very

lightly. Drop the mixture in pieces about the

size of a walnut into boiling fat, and fry until

nicely browned. Lift out with a perforated

spoon on to kitchen paper ; drain well, dish on

a dish paper or folded napkin, and garnish

with parsley.

Potatoes (to Fry)

{Fr. Pommes de Terre Fritos)

Required-

Potatoes. I Frying Fat or Oil.

Salt. I

Method. - Wash and peel the potatoes. Cut

them into thin slices as nearly the same size as

possible. Make them quite dry in a cloth, and

put them into a frying basket. Have ready

some deep fat and make it moderately hot, but

not boiUng. Plunge the potatoes in and cook

them at a moderate rate until tender and

slightly coloured. Then Uft them out, drain

them, and let them get partly cold. Replace

the fat on the fire, and when it steams return the

potatoes to it and shake them about until they

are crisp and nicely browned. Drain quicldy

and sprinkle with salt. These potatoes are

usually served with grilled chops or steaks.

Potato Chips and Ribbons. - Choose large,

smoothly shaped potatoes. Dry them well after

they have been washed and peeled.

For Ribbons cut the potatoes first in slices

half an inch in thickness. Then take ono slice

at a time and with a small knife peel slowly

round and round it, cutting the ribbons so thin

that you can see the knife tlurough them, and

making them as long as possible. Do not throw

them back into the water ; keep them lying on

the cloth until it is time to cook them. Some of

them may be tied into bows or knots. The

drier they are the more easily they will fry.

For Chips cut the potatoes first into thin

slices, then across into strips or chips. Cook

both these in the same way as above.

New Potatoes

Required -

1 lb. Potatoes.

1 gill light Stock.

Salt.

1 or 2 oz. Butter.

1 tea-spoonful

I'arsley.

chopped

Method. - Wash and peel the potatoes veiy

GUIDE TO COOKERY

157

thinly (unless this is done they will not absorb

the butter). Put them into a stewpan or

earthenware dish with the stock and a little

salt if necessary. Cover with the lid and cook

in a moderate oven for twenty or thirty minutes,

or until sufficiently cooked. Strain off any

stock that may be left, add the butter and

parsley, and toss over the fire for a few minutes.

Serve very hot.

Required -

Patna Kice.

Salt.

Rice (to Boil for Curries)

Boiling Water.

Method. - Patna rice is the best to use for

curries. It is a long, slender grain, pointed at

the ends. Well wash it in several waters until

the last water that is poured off looks qmte

clean. Have ready on the fire a saucepan, three

parts full of freshly boiling water, add salt to it

in the proportion of one dessert-spoonful to a

quart, and throw the rice into tliis. Boil quickly

with the lid off, stirring it frequently with a fork

to prevent the rice sticking to the pan, and also

that it may be well tossed about with the water.

Cook from twelve to fifteen minutes, or until

the grains will rub down easily, when one is

tested between the finger and thumb. Then

strain tlirough a sieve or strainer, and finish

cooking and drying it, either by putting it back

into the saucepan by the side of the fire, or

lea\dng it on the sieve, which may be placed

on the rack above the fire, or on a plate in a

moderate oven. While drying stir hghtly with

a fork every now and then to keep the grsiins

separate.

Neapolitan Rice

(Fr. Riz a la Napolitaine)

Ingredients - ■

J lb. cooked Kice. 1 oz. Butter.

2 Tomatoes. Pepper aud Salt.

2 oz. grated Cheese.

Method. - Have the rice well cooked, the

tomatoes rubbed through a hair sieve and the

cheese grated. Melt the butter in a fireproof

dish, add the other ingredients, and stir together

over the fire. Season to taste and serve very

hot in the casserole.

Salsify (to Fry)

(Fr. Salsifis Frit)

Required -

Salsify. Frying Fat.

Flour. Pepper and Salt.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

Method. - ^^Vash the salsify and scrape the

roots gently to rid them of their outside coating.

Throw them into cold water to wliich a little

lemon juice or vinegar has been added to

preserve the colour. Then boil them in salted

water until just tender, and drain carefuUy so

as not to break them. Finish in the same way

as fried celery (p. 151).

Note. - Salsify may also be served in any

smtable sauce according to directions given for

JerusaJem Artichokes (p. 149).

Sea- Kale

{Fr. Chou Marin)

Cook in the same way as celery (see p. 151).

Sorrel

{Fr. Oseille)

This must be very fresh to be good. It can

be cooked according to directions given for

cooking spinach. Sometimes it is mixed with

equal quantities of spinach, or with a few leaves

of lettuce.

Spinach (to Boil)

(Fr. Epinaxds au Naturel)

Required -

1 lb. Spinach.

} oz. Butter.

Pepper and Salt.

Lemon Juice.

Sippets of Toast or Fried

Bread.

Method. - Spinach reduces so enormously in

cooking that one pound will make a very small

dish. Double the leaves lengthways and strip

off the stalks. Then wash the spinach thoroughly

in several waters until qtoite free from grit. It

is a vegetable which requires most particular

washing, growing as it does so near the ground.

It is very earthy, and takes a great deal of water

to make it clean. Handle it as lightly as possible,

as touching it too much with the hands causes

the leaves to lose all their crispness. Put it

into a saucepan, without any water except

that which adlieres to the leaves, sprinlde it

with salt, and put the Lid on the pan. Spinach

is the only green vegetable which is cooked with

the lid on the pan ; but, as no water is used,

were the lid left off, evaporation would be so

great that the spinach would soon burn. Tlie

green of it is so intense that there is no fear of

its discolouring unless it is cooked too long.

Cook until it is quite tender, from twenty to

thirty minutes, stirring frequently with a spoon.

When ready, drain well on a fine wire sieve with

a basin below it, and press out as much water

as possible with the back of a wooden spoon.

Then remove the basin, put a clean dry plate

underneath the sieve, rub the spinacli through

on to tlais, and scrape the sieve well under-

neath. Retiun the spinach to a saucepan,

with the butter, pepper and salt if necessary.

Stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, and add

a squeeze of lemon juice. Arrange it in a neat

pyramid on a hot dish, marking it up the sides

with the back of a fork, and garnish round the

base with sippets of toast or fried bread, a few

slices of hard-boiled egg, or some cooked beetroot

158

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

cut in fancy shapes, unless served as a garnish

to meat, when the croutons should be omitted.

Spinach with Cream

(Fr. Epinards a la CrCme)

Prepare in the same way as above, adding

two or tliree table -spoonfuls of cream at the

last.

Note. - A garnish of poached eggs or some

tliin slices of nicely fried ham or bacon is a

very nice accompaniment to tliis dish.

Stewed Spaghetti

Ingredients-

J lb. Spaghetti.

i pt. TeAl or Chicken Broth.

1 oz. Butter,

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Spaghetti is a very fine form of

Italian paste, and it is considered more dehcate

than macaroni. Break the spaghetti into small

pieces, and put it into a small saucepan with

the broth or any good light stock. Allow it to

simmer slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes

until soft and the liquid is all absorbed. Then

add the butter, and season to taste. The sieved

pulp of one or two tomatoes may be added for

a variety, or poached eggs may be served on

the top of the spaghetti. A httle grated cheese

too may be added.

Sweet Potatoes .

This vegetable is not as yet very well known

in this coimtry. It resembles the common

potato in size and appearance, and can be

cooked in the same way. Or, the following two

recipes are very good.

Sweet Potato Pie

Ingredients -

1 lb. cooked Sweet Potatoes.

2 table-spoonfuls Browned

Crumbs.

i pint well-seasoned White

Sauce.

1 oz. Butter.

Method. - Cut the potatoes in slices and

arrange them in a greased pie-dish in layers

with the white sauce. Sprinkle the crumbs

over and place the butter in small pieces on the

top. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty

minutes.

Sweet Potatoes with Cream

Ingredients -

1 lb. cooked Sweet Potatoes. I } oz. Flour.

2 oz. Butter. 1 table-spoonful chopped

1 g:n Cream. | Parsley.

Method. - Stir the butter and fiour in an

earthenware dish until they form a paste. Add

the parsley and cream and then the potatoes

cut in slices. Season to taste and serve very

hot en casserole.

Tomatoes a I'Americaine

2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

2 table-sp. grated Cheese,

i oz. Butter.

I'eppcr and Salt.

Ingredients -

6 small Tomatoes.

1 gill Tomato Sauce.

1 tea-sp. Curry Powder.

1 tea-spoonful Ked Currant

Jelly.

Method. - Choose small firm tomatoes, not

over -ripe. Put them into boiUng water for a

minute or two, then Uft them out, dry and peel

them. Then grease a fireproof dish, and place

the tomatoes in it. Sprinkle thnm with half

the crumbs and cheese, and a little pepper and

salt. Add the curry powder and red-currant

jelly to the tomato sauce (see p. 145), and pour

this over the tomatoes. Put the remainder of

crimibs and cheese on the top, then the butter

in small pieces, and bake in a moderate oven

about twenty minutes. Serve hot. This dish

may be geirnished with rolls of bacon.

Tomatoes au Gratin

{Fr. Tomates au Gratin)

Ir^redients-

J lb. Tomatoes.

2 oz. Bread-crumbs.

1 oz. Butter.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Put the tomatoes into a basin, cover

them ^Tith boiUng water, and let them stand for

a few minutes. Then take them out, dry them,

and remove the skins. Cut them in sUces,

keeping them on a plate, so as not to lose any

of the juice. Grease a small pie-dish or gratin

dish, and put half the tomatoes at the foot of it.

Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put in half

the bread-crumbs, and half the butter in small

pieces. Then lay in the rest of the tomatoes,

season them, and put the remainder of the

bread-crumbs and butter on the top. Wipe

round the edge of the dish, and bake in a quick

oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve

in the dish in which it is cooked.

Tomatoes (Stuffed)

{Fr. Tomates Farcies)

Ingredients -

5 medium-sized Tomatoes.

J'epper and Salt

1 oz. Butter.

3 table-sp. Minced Meat.

2 tal)le-sp. Bread-crumbs.

1 Shallot

A little Stock.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

A few browned Bread-

crumbs.

5 croutons of Fried Bread.

Method. - Wipe the tomatoes first with a

cloth, tlion remove the stalk, and make a small

round hole at that end. With the end of a

teaspoon, scoop out the soft part from the inside,

and put it into a basin. Be very careful whilst

doing this not to break through the skin of the

tomatoes, and do not make the sides too thin.

Sesison the inside \v-ith pepper and salt, and turn

them upside down on a plate to drain. The

soft pEirt from the inside must be strained or

GUIDE TO COOKERY

159

rubbed through a sieve, and kept for moistening

the stuffing. The best meat to use for stuffing

the tomatoes is ham, tongue, or chicken, but any

nicely cooked meat will do. Melt the butter in

a small saucepan, add to it the shallot, very finely

chopped, and cook it slowly over the fire for a

few minutes. Then add to it the meat, white

bread-crumbs, and parsley mixed well together,

season to taste, and moisten with the liquid from

the tomatoes, and a httle stock if necessary.

Cook over the fire to swell the bread-crumbs,

and then fill up the tomatoes with this stuffing.

Do not fill them too full or they will biirst whilst

cooking. Sprinkle a few browned bread-crumbs

over the top, and place thom side by side on a

greased baking-tin. Cover with greased paper,

and bake in a moderate oven until they feel

tender, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Put

the fried cro^itons of bread on to a hot dish

with a dish paper on it, lift the tomatoes care-

fully on to this, and garnish with parsley.

Note. - -If liked, sauce, brown or tomato, may

be served round the tomatoes or separately.

A little grated Parmesan cheese or chopped

mushrooms may be added to the stuffing.

Small stuffed tomatoes axe sometimes used as

a garnish for meat dishes.

Young Turnips In Butter

{Fr. Navets au Caramel)

Required -

6 or 8 young Turnips.

Salt.

A pinch of Cinnamon.

Butter.

A pinch of Sugar.

Method. - Prepare the turnips and steam them

until half cooked. Then take them up and put

them into a casserole with a little butter, sprinkle

with salt, and add the sugar and cinnamon.

Put on the lid and cook slowly until the tvu-nips

are tender. They should be turned gently from

time to time to be a nice golden brown coloixr

when ready.

Required -

Turnips.

Pepper and Salt.

Mashed Turnips

Butter.

Method. - Prepare as many turnips as required

and cut them into mediun^, -sized pieces. Cook

them in a perforated steamer, or, if old,

boil in salted water until thoroughly tender.

The time will depend upon the age and freshness

of the turnips, from £ of an hour to li hours.

When qiute tender drain them thoroughly and

retvu-n to a dry saucepan. Mash them with a

fork or potato -beater until free from lumps,

and add butter in the proportion of ^ oz.

to each cupful. Season to taste and serve in a

hot vegetable dish in the form of a pyramid,

marking up the sides with the back of a fork.

Vegetable Marrow with White Sauce

{Fr. Courge a la Sauce Blanche)

Required -

1 Vegetable Marrow. I White Sauce (see p. 146).

Boiling Water. | Salt.

Method. - Wash the marrow, cut it in quarters,

remove the seeds, and peel it very thinly. If

large, cut it into neat-sized pieces, and throw

them into cold water until wanted. Then place

the pieces in a steamer and cook them until

tender from ^ to | of an hour. Serve in a

hot vegetable dish with white sauce or any other

suitable sauce poured over it.

Note. - The marrow may be boiled in milk,

and the milk afterwards used for making the

sauce.

Vegetable Marrow with Cheese

{Fr. Courge au Fromage)

Method. - Cook the marrow as above and

finish according to directions given for cauli-

flower with cheese (p. 151).

GENERAL NOTES ON SALAD-MAKING

Nearly all vegetables and meats may be used

as salads.

Cooked vegetables must not be pulpy but

firm, in order that they may be cut in slices or

fancy shapes.

All green vegetables should be young and

crisp, and must be carefully washed in cold

water to free them from dust and insects.

The main thing to observe in the washing of

green vegetables, such as lettuce, endive, cress,

&c., is to handle them very lightly ; if too much

touched their crispness is destroyed.

It is also imiDortant to have the vegetables

well dried after washing ; if any

water is left on them the dress-

ing will not adhere, but will run

to the bottom of the dish, and

both salad and dressing will be

poor. Green salad vegetables

should be shaken in a sieve or

wire basket first and then tossed

lightly in a cloth.

There are few vegetables

which cannot be used as a

salad. Among the most ap-

propriate may be named lettuce,

endive, mustard and cress, wat"r-cress, toinatoes,

celery, cucumber, spring onions, radishes, &c.,

various cooked vegetables, such as beetroot,

cauliflower, French or haricot beans, asparagus,

carrot, turnip, potatoes, Spanish onions, &c.

Poultry and game of any kind, ham, tongue,

or, in fact, any tender, well-flavoured meat cut

in small pieces may be used.

Fish too, such as salmon, turbot, halibut, sole,

cod, lobster, crab, oysters, &c.

Salad Basket.

160

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

A few hints on the preparation of the various

salad vegetables may be useful.

Lettuce. - Cxit off the root and remove any

coarse and discoloured outside leaves, and trim

away any decayed parts from the inside ones.

Sepeurate the rest of the leaves one from the

other, trim off the hard pieces of stalk, and

tlirow them into a basin of fresh cold water.

Wash lightly in tliis, and then take a second

clean cold water, and wash again. If rather

limp let the lettuce soak for half-an-hour or

so in cold water, then shako as dry as possible

in a sieve or wire basket, and toss lightly in a

towel. Tlie larger leaves of the lettuce may be

cut across in fine slireds with a knife, and the

smaller ones used as a garnish. Many people

object to use a knife and prefer to tear the leaves

in pieces with the fingers, but if a sharp knife is

used, and it is quickly and lightly done, it really

does no harm, and the lettuce looks much bettor.

Endive. - Prepare in the same way as lettuce.

Mustard and Cress. - Wash in several waters,

removing all black seeds. If rather Ump, soak

for half-an-hour in cold water. Shake in a wire

sieve or basket, and then in a cloth until dry.

Water-cress. - From the nature of its growth,

it requires most careful cleansing, or it may

prove most harmful. Remove all fibres and

deca3'ed leaves from the stalks. Then wash

carefully in several waters, and shake dry.

Radishes. - Cut off the tops and wash well in

cold water, rubbing off all black with the fingers.

If large, they may be scrubbed with a brush.

Dry in a towel. Tlicso may either be served

whole in a salad or cut in thin slices.

Carrot and Turnip must be cooked, but not

too soft, well drained, and cut in dice or fancy

shapes.

Spring Onions. - Cut off the roots, part of the

green tops, and the outside skin. Wash well,

letting the water run between the leaves. Dry

in a cloth, and serve whole or cut in tliin slices.

Celery. - Use the white inside part for salads.

Divide the stalks, and brush each part in cold

water with a vegetable brush. With a knife

remove any brown or discoloured parts, and, if

limp, soak for a short time in cold water. Then

dry and serve in a celery glass or cut in shreds

in a sal6kd.

For prep8U"ing the other vegetables see under

the special salads.

TO SERVE A SALAD

A salad should bo served as cold as possible,

and the dressing should not bo mixed with it

long before it has to be eaten.

A special spoon ought to be used for mixing

the dressing in horn, wood, or ivory. Silver

is apt to promote verdigris.

The dressing itself may be made hours before,

and even sufficient for two or three days made at

one time and bottled ready for use.

Although exact quantities have been given

for the various salad dressings, diversity of taste

must bo considered. There are two typical

dressings, i.e.. Vinaigrette sauce or French dress-

ing, made of oil and xnnegar, and Mayonnaise.

The former is the simpler and more wholesome

of the two, and that most frequently used on

the Continent. Mayonnaise is as a rule more

appreciated by the English people.

When a salad is served along with other dishes

the French dressing is the more suitable, but

for such salads aa chicken, lobster, game, &c..

Mayonnaise is generally used, as these are as a

rule served as a separate course.

Never use any but the best oil, and if not

using it frequently buy it in small quantities,

as it is apt to become rancid. Keep it in a cool

dark place. Cream may always take the placo

of salad oil.

The variety of ways in which a salad may

be garnished is endless, and although special

garnishes are specified in the following recipes,

they can of course be altered according to the

season of the year and to suit indi\'idual taste.

A salad may either be served in a salad bowl,

a glass dish, or in one of the various fancy china

dishes which can now be bought for a very small

sum. It is also customary to serve salads in

small dishes, allowing one to each person.

SALAD DRESSINGS

French Dressing or Vinaigrette Sauce

Ingredients -

Salt

i tea-sp. made Mustard.

2 table-spoonfuls Salad Oil.

1 table-spoonful Vinegar.

White Pepper.

Method. - This dressing is frequently made at

table in or over the salad bowl. If it is pre-

pared beforehand it should not be poured over

the salad until the time of serving. Mix the

salt, popper, and mustard together, and add the

oil gradually. When these are well blended

and the salt dissolved add the vinegar. A

pinch of cayenne and a little sugar may be

added. Sometimes a toa-spoonful of Tarragon

vinegar is put in, and by some people more oil

is preferred.

Salad Dressing

Ingredients -

2 hard-boiled Yolks.

I tea-sp. made Mustard.

White Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

A pinch of Sugar.

3 tea-spoonfuls Salad Oil or

Cream.

2 table-spoonfuls Vinegar.

1 dessert-spoonful Tarragon

Vinegar.

Method. - ^Rub the hard-boilod yolks through

a sieve, and put them into a basin with the

seasoning. Mix well together, and add the oil

gradually, stirring all the time. Then add the

vinegar, a little at a time, and mix well. The

sauce should be of the consistency of cream.

Note - If the dressing is to bo used for fish

GUIDE TO COOKERY

161

or lobster salad, a tea-spoonful of anchovy or

shrimp sauce is an improvement. The hard-

boiled whites of eggs may be shred and used as a

garnish for the salad.

Potato Dressing

1 table-spoonful Vinegar.

J tea-sp. made Mustard.

A pinch of Sugar.

Ingredients-

2 table-spoonfuls boiled and

sieved Potatoes.

3 table-spoonfuls Salad Oil.

White Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Put the potato into a basin with

the seasoning, and mix well together. Add the

oil gradually, stirring all the time, and then pour

in the vinegar. A little Tarragon vinegar may

be added. Cream may be substituted for the

oil.

Celery Salad

{Fr. Salade de C61eri)

Required -

1 head of Celery, Salad dressing.

Oarnish -

Parsley, Beetroot, or Small Cress.

Method. - Remove the outside stalks from

the celery, reserving these for flavouring stocks

or soups, and use the white inside part for the

salad. Separate the stalks, and wash and brush

them well in cold water. If time permits, let

these lie for half-an-hour in cold water, then lift

out and dry in a cloth. With a sharp knife

cut the celery across in shreds, and also shred

the white . of egg left from the salad dressing.

Mix these lightly together, put them in a salad

dish, and pour the dressi'^g over.

Garnish with a little finely-chopped parsley,

smaU sprigs of parsley, the green tops of the

celery, small cress, or beetroot cut in fancy

shapes. Curled celery may also be used as a

garnish.

To Curl Celery. - Cut a few firm sticks of celer^

into pieces about four inches in length. Then

with a sharp knife cut these in fine strips, like

a fringe, about three inches from the top, and

leaving about one inch at the foot as foundation.

Lot these lie in cold water for half-an-hour, or

until they have a curled appearance, and use

as a. gaornish.

Chicken Salad

(Fr. Salade de Volaille)

Required -

Some cooked Chicken.

1 Lettuce.

1 or 2 sticks of Celery.

Some small Cress.

A few Radishes.

Mayonnaise Sauce (p. 144).

Method. - Cut the cliicken in dice, removing

the skin. Wash the lettuce and celery. Dry

well and cut them in shreds. Mix these with

the chicken, half the cress, and a little Mayon-

naise. Pile high on a salad dish, and pour some

more Mayonnaise over the top. Garnish with

the small leaves of lettuce, radishes, and the

remainder of the cress.

Note. - Endive may also be used as a garnish,

Smd cucumber used instead of celery. A hard-

boiled egg cut in pieces may be added.

Crab Salad

{Fr. Salade de Crabe)

Required -

1 Crab (boiled).

1 Lettuce.

1 bunch of Water-cress.

1 hard-boiled Egg.

1 Tomato.

French Dressing (p. 160).

Method. - Pick aU the meat from the crab and

shred it finely, carefully removing all pieces of

shell. Wash and dry the lettuce and cress, and

slired them finely. Mix these in a basin with

the crab and salad dressing, and season rather

highly with pepper and salt. Pile this mixture

in a salad dish, and garnish with the tomato

and hard-boiled egg cut in pieces.

Note. - Mayonnaise sauce may also be used

for this.

Fisli Salad

(Fr. Salade de Poisson)

Make in the same way as crab salad, using

neat little flakes of cooked fish instead of the

crab. A little cucumber or a few radishes may

be used as a garnish.

Cucumber Salad

{Fr. Salade de Concombre)

3 or 4 Spring Onions.

French Dressing (p. 160).

Required -

1 Cucumber.

White Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Peel and slice the cucumber as thin

as a sheet of note-paper. Wlien doing this

always commence at the thick end and slice

towards the stalk ; if done the opposite way,

the cucumber will have an exceedingly bitter

taste. Lay these sUces on a plate with the

onions washed and thinly sliced, and sprinkle

them rather liberally with salt. Cover \vith

another plate, stand for half-an-hour, and then

pour off the water that has exuded from them.

This tends to make the salad more digestible.

Arrange the slices neatly in a salad dish and

pour the dressing over.

Note. - The oil may be omitted and vinegar

only used, and water-cress may take the place

of the onions.

Frencli Bean Salad

{Fr. Salade de Haricots Verts)

Required -

1 breakfast-cupful of cooked

French Beans.

1 tea- spoonful finely chopped

Parsley.

Method. - Have the beans cut in slireds and

as dry as possible. Mix them with the parsley

i tea-spoonful finely pow-

dered Herbs.

French Dressing (p. 160).

162

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

and mixed h"rbs finely powdered. Arrange

neatly in a salad dish, and pour the dreesing over.

Game Salad

(Fr. Salade de Gibier)

Make in tlie same way as chicken salad, and

use Ttulare sauce instead of Mayonnaise.

Haricot Bean Salad

{Fr. Salado do Haricots Blancs)

Prepare in the same way as French bean

salad (p. IGl), using small cooked haricot beans

instead of French beans. Garnish with tiny

sprigs of parsley or some curled celery.

Lobster Salad

{Fr. Salade de Homard)

Prepare in the same way as oyster salad

(see below), using some nice pieces of cooked

lobster in place of the oysters. It may be gar-

nished with slices of hard-boiled egg and bvmches

of sliced cucumber and radish.

Mixed Salad

For this take as great a variety of Balad

vegetables aa you can get, according to the

season of the year, and a suitable proportion

of each.

Such vegetables as finely shred lettuce and

endive, spring onions thinly sliced, tomatoes

peeled and cut in pieces, sUced beetroot, sliced

cucumber, shred celery, mustard and cress,

radishes, small pieces of cooked carrot and

turnip, &c., &c., are suitable. Mix well with

any of the salad dressings, axid garnish according

to taste.

Oyster Salad

{Fr. Sedade aux Hultres)

Required -

1 dozen Oysters.

Cayenne Pepper.

Salt

Mayonnaise Sauce.

Metiiod. - Wash, drain, and shred the lettuce

very finely, and arrange a bed of this on six

little china dishes. Put two oysters in each,

1 Lettuce.

A little Cress.

Small slices of Lemon.

and sprinkle with cayemie pepper aud salt.

Then coat the oysters with some thick Mayon-

naise, and garnish with small cress and a

small slice of lemon. Tliis salad is sufficient

for six pei-sons. The quantities can of course

be increased or reduced at pleasure.

Note. - This may also bљ served on one larger

dish. '

Potato and Beetroot Salad

{Fr. Salade de Pommes de Terro eu Betterave)

Required -

1 tea-spoonful finely chopped

ShaUot

Potato Dressing (p. 161).

4 or 5 cooked Potatoes.

1 cooked Beetroot.

1 tea-spoonful finely chopped

Parsley.

Method. - Potatoes for a salad should be rather

waxy, not mesdy - new potatoes are best. Cut

them into neat slices, and trim the slices with a

round cutter. Peel and slice the beetroot, and

arrange it in a salad dish in alternate rows or

circles with the potato. Sprinkle with finely

chopped parsley and shallot, and pour the

dressing over.

Note. - A little grated horse-radish may be

mixed with the dressing, and some water-oreas

used aa a garnish.

Tomato Salad

{Fr. Salade de Toraates)

Required -

3 or 4 Tomatoes.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 tea-sp. chopped Shallot.

French Dressing (p. 160).

Method. - First peel the tomatoes. To do this

either soak them in a basin of very hot water for

two or three minutes, or put them in a wire

basket and plunge them into boiling water for

a minute. The latter method is better ; it does

not soften the tomatoes so much. Remove the

skins very carefully with a small knife, and if

time permits allow the tomatoes to become quite

cold before cutting them up. Then slice them

rather thinly and, if large, cut the slices in two.

Place these slices very neatly on a salad dish,

sprinkling them with chopped parsley and

shallot. Pour the dressing over.

Note. - Mayonnaise sauce may be used instead

of the plain salad dressing, and the shallot may

be omitted.

PASTRY AND PASTRY-MAKING

General Notes on Pastry -making. - The making

of pastry requires a considerable amount of

pract'oe, and failure at first must not discourage

the bjginner. The following rules must be care-

fully attended to : -

Use only the best materials, and if an

economical pastry is wanted use good dripping

or lard in preference to inferior butter.

See that all the utensils used, such as board,

rolling-pin, and basin are particularly clean and

cool. Clean hands are also imperative. If the

hands are inclined to bo very warm wash them

some little time before beginning the pastry in

very warm water. Make the pastry in as cool a

place as possible ; the colder it is kept during

the making the lighter it will be. Roll the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

163

pastry lightly and press equally lightly with

both hands.

Never rub little pieces oS the fingers on to

the pastry, as, when cooked, they will form hard

lumps ; but clean the hands back into the basin

with a Uttle dry flour.

Never allow pastry to stick to the board, but

lift it occasionally on the rolling-pin and dust

some flour underneath. If anything has stuck

to the board, scrape it off carefully with a knife

before beginning again. Always sprinkle flour

over the board and pastry tlirough a flour-

dredger ; it makes it finer and hghter.

If the rolling-pin sticks to the pastry dust a

little flour over it, and brush it off again lightly

with a small brush kept for the piirpose. Never

roU a quantity of dry flour into pastry as it

gives it a white pasty appearance.

The exact amount of water to use is not given

in the recipes, as so much depends upon the

consistency of the butter and also upon the

flour used. The finer the flour the more water

it will take up.

However well pastry is made it will not be

a success unless the baking is carefully attended

to and the oven properly heated. If the oven

is not hot enough the butter will melt and run

out of the pastry before the starch grains in the

flour have time to burst and absorb it. This

makes the pastry heavy.

When the pastry is well thrown up and nicely

browned, cover it over with kitchen paper and

remove it to a cooler part of the oven until

sufficiently cooked. Before baking pastry in

any oven you should thoroughly understand the

heating of it, as the hottest part of one may be

the coolest part of anc+her. Never slam an

oven door, but open and close it gently and not

oftener than necessary.

Flaky Pastry

Proportions -

10 oz. Flour. A pinch of Salt.

7 oz. Butter. Cold Water.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Method. - Weigh the butter, and let it lie for

some time in cold water before using it. Sieve

the flour and salt into a clean dry basin, and add

the lemon juice. Lift the butter out of the

water, and squeeze it dry in a clean floiu-ed

cloth. Divide it into four equal pieces. Take

one of these pieces and rub it into the flour with

the tips of the flngers and thumbs until quite

free from lumps. Then add sufficient cold

water to form all into one lump. Mix with the

hand as lightly as possible, and turn out on to

a floured board. Knead lightly until free from

cracks, and then roll out into a long narrow

strip. Take one of the remaining portions of

butter, and with the point of a knife spread it in

small pieces and in even rows all over the pastry.

Now flour the surface lightly, and fold the paste

exactly in three. Turn the pastry half round.

bringing the joins to the right-hand side. Press

down the folds sharply with the rolling-pin, so

as to enclose some air. Roll out the pastry

again into a long narrow strip, and proceed as

before until the two remaining portions of butter

have thus been used. If the butter becomes

soft during the rolling, lay the pastry aside,

for a short time, before completing the process.

The last time roll out the pastry to the desired

thickness, and if it reqmres widening, turn it

across the board and roll across. Never roll in

a slanting direction, or the lightness of the pastry

will suffer.

This pastry is not quite so rich as puff pastry.

It may be kept for several days in cold weather

if wrapped in greased paper or in a damp cloth.

Puff Pastry

{Pr. Feuilletage

Proportions -

i lb. Flour. A squeeze of Lemon Jalce.

i lb. Butter. Cold Water.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Weigh the butter, and let it lie in a

basin of cold water for some time before using it.

Sieve the flour and salt into a clean dry basin,

and add the lemon juice to them. Lift the

butter out of the cold water and dry it lightly

in a floured cloth. Take a quarter of this and

rub it into the flour with the tips of the fingers

and thumbs until there are no lumps left, then

mix with cold water into a stiffish dough.

Turn this on to a floured board and work it well

with the hands until it will no longer stick to the

fingers and forms a perfectly smooth dough.

Then roll it rather thinly into a square or round

shape. The butter to be used should be as

nearly as possible of the same consistency as the

paste. Form it into a neat flat cake, and place

it in the centre of the pastry. Fold it up rather

loosely, and flatten the folds with a rolling-pin.

Then roll out the pastry into a long narrow strip,

being careful that the butter does not break

through. Fold it exactly in three, press down

the folds, and lay the pastry aside in a cool place

for a quarter of an hour at least. This is caUed

giving the pastry one " turn " and seven of these

is the number usually required for puff pastry.

The next time the pastry is rolled, place it with

the joins at yovu* right-hand side, and the open

ends towards you. Give it two " tiu-ns " this

time, and again set it aside in a cool place for

at least fifteen minutes Repeat this until the

pastry has had seven rolls in all, one roll or turn

the first time and after that two each time with

an interval between. The object of this cooling

between the rolls is to keep the butt<"r and

fioiu- in distinct and separate layers, in which it

is the function of the rolling-pin and folding to

arrange them, and on which the lightness of the

pastry depends. After it has received its last

roll, it is better to be laid aside for some time

164

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Cold Water.

before using it, then roll to the thickness re-

quired. Tliis pastry will keep for several days

in cold weather if wrapped in a piece of well-

greased paper.

Rough-Pufl Pastry

Proportions-

i lb. Flour.

} lb. Butter or Lard.

A piDch of SalU

Method. - Prepare the butter as above, and

sieve the flour and salt into a clean dry basin,

and add the lemon juice to it. Put the butter

into the basin, cover it well over with the

flour, and then break it into pieces the size

of a hazel-nut. Have some very cold water

in a jug ready for mixing with, and make a

well in the centre of the flour and butter. Mix

very lightly with the right hand or with a

knife, pouring the water in gradually with the

left until you have added sufficient to bind all

together. Flour the baking-board and turn the

dough out on to it. Flour the rolling-pin and

roll the dough out very carefully into a strip

about three-quarters of a yard in length and

from seven to eight inches wide. Lift occasion-

ally while rolling, and dust some flour underneath

the pastry to prevent it from sticking to the

board. Roll the pastry on the one side only,

do not turn it over, and roll in short quick

strokes always from you. When rolled to tlie

required length, fold it in tliree, and press down

with the rolling-pin. Turn the pastry half

round, bringing the joins to the right-hand side,

and roll again in the same way as before. Fold

again in three, half turn and roll again, repeating

this until the pastry has had three rolls and three

folds. The fourth time of rolUng out, roll to

the size and shape required for use.

Note. - If the pastry becomes very soft while

polling, it should be laid away in a cool place

before completing the process. It is improved

by being kept for a few hours before using. In

cold weather it will keep for several days if

wrapped in a piece of greased paper. This pastry

may be mswle richer by using 6 oz. of butter in-

steeul of 4 oz. to J lb. flour. An egg well beaten

may be used for mixing with along with a little

water.

Short Crust

Proportione -

} lb. Flour.

1 tea-spoonful Caator Sugar.

i lb. Butter.

Method. - Rub the flour and sugar through a

wire sie' e into a clean dry basin. Add a squeeze

ot lemon juice, and if fresh butter is being used,

a pinch of salt also. Put in the butter, cover

it well over with the flour, and break it in

pieces. Then rub together lightly with the

tips of the fingers and thumbs until as fine as

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Cold Water.

bread-crumbs. Next make a well in the centre

of these dry ingredients, and add cold water

very gradually with the left hand whilst mixing

with the right. Mix with the hand or with a

knife. Use very little water in the mixing of

thi.s paste, or it will be tough instead of short.

Flour the pastry -board sliglitly, lay the dough

on it, and work lightly with the hands until free

from cracks. Then floiu- a rolling-pin, press

down the pastry first, then with sharp quick

strokes roll it out to the thickness required.

This pastry only requires one roll. Roll it on

the one side only, and be careful it does not

stick to the board.

Notes. - The above is a fairly rich paste, and if

a plainer one is wished, use only 3 oz. of butter,

or substitute lard or dripping for the butter.

The pastry may be made richer by using

rather more butter, 6 oz. to ^ lb. flovir, and the

yolk of an egg beaten up with a little water for

mixing.

The quantities given will make a pastry quite

suitable for all ordinary purposes.

Tliis is one of the most wholesome Idnds of

pastry. The butter is so thoroughly mixed with

the flour, that the latter is more thoroughly

cooked and is more digestible than in some of

the flaky pastries.

Plain Short Crust

} tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Cold Water.

Proportions -

i lb. Flour.

4 oz. Lard or Dripping.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Make in the same as above. A

little castor sugar should be added if the pastry

is to be used for a sweet dish.

Suet Pastry

} tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Cold Water.

Proportions -

1 lb. Flour.

i lb. Suet

i tea-spoonful Salt.

Method. - Weigh the flour carefully, add the

salt and baking powder to it, and rub these

tlirough a wire sieve into a clean dry basin.

Remove the skin from the suet, shred it very

finely with a sharp knife, and then weigh it.

Put it on a chopping-board, and sprinkle it with

some of the flour already weighed out. Then

chop it very finely, using enough flour to prevent

it sticking to the board and knife. The finer it

is chopped, the better the pastry will be. When

ready, mix it thoroughly with the flour in the

basin, rubbing all the ingredients hghtly together

with the tips of the fingers. Then make a well

in the centre of these drj' ingredients, and add

enough cold water to form into a smooth soft

dough. Turn out on to a floured board, leaving

the beisip "' 'e clean. Work lightly with the

hanr' " , .P e from cracks, then flour a rolling-

pi' ''^^ n^ak^Qg t to the thickness required.

/■

GUIDE TO COOKERY

165

Note. - Buttermilk or sweet milk may be used

instead of water for mixing.

Half the quantity of flour may be omitted,

and \ lb. bread-crumbs used in its place.

To Make Patty Gases

First Method. - Take | lb. of puff pastry that

has had seven rolls, and roll it out to J inch in

thickness. Let it rest for fully five minutes

before cutting, to allow for slu-inking, or the

patties will be oval instead of round in shape.

Then take a cutter 2\ inches in diameter, and

stamp out as many rounds as possible from the

pastry. Do not cut too near to the edge of the

pastry, as it is usually of rather uneven thickness

there. Mark the middle of these rounds to

about half their depth with a cutter 1| inch in

diameter, a border being thus left outside the

centre cut of about \ inch in width. The pastry

should be icy cold when cut, or it will not rise

evenly. Lay the rounds on a baking-tin, keeping

them as much to the middle of this as possible,

a precaution which also promotes their rising

evenly. Brush over the tops with beaten egg,

being careful not to touch the edges, as the egg

would harden the pastry and prevent it rising.

Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes, or

until the pastry is well risen and nicely browned.

If on taking the patties out of the oven one side

is found to be higher than the other, press the

tops gently into place at once before they have

time to stiffen, using if necessary a little beaten

egg on a brush to make them stick. When the

patties are ready, lift off the inner circle of

pastry and remove the uncooked paste from

the interior to make room for the filHng. If Uds

are wanted for the cases, roll out the remainder

of the pastry to about J inch in thickness, and

stamp out rounds for covers with the smaller

of the two cutters used for the patties. Bake

these on a separate tin, as they vnW take a shorter

time to cook. About ten minutes should be

sufficient.

Second Method. - Use either rough puff or

flaky pastry, rolling it out to rather more than

J inch in thickness. Let it rest for a few minutes

to allow for shrinking, and cut into rounds with

a plain or fluted cutter 2\ inches in diameter.

From half of these rounds cut a hole in the

centre IJ inch in diameter. Moisten the edges

of the whole rounds with egg or water, and lay

the rings on the top. Place the patties on a

baking-tin, and prick the centres with a fork to

prevent them rising. Brush over with beaten

egg, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes.

On another tin put the small rounds cut from the

centre of the rings, brush them over with beaten

egg, and bake about ten minutes. These will

serve as covers. Wlion the patties are ready,

fill up the hollows in the centre with any mixture,

and put on the lids.

MEAT AND MEAT DISHES

SIMPLE METHOD OF COOKING MEAT

BAKING AND ROASTING

Roasting, properly speaking, is cooking in

front of an open fire, but owing to the limited

accommodation and the construction of the

stoves in modern houses, this method of cooking

has become almost a thing of the past, and

baking, or roasting in the oven, has almost

entirely taken its place.

The rules for both are practically the same.

The meat to be roasted should be weighed and

well wiped with a damp cloth, but never washed.

If frozen meat is being used the joint should be

allowed to thaw slowly in a warm kitchen for

Bome hours before it is cooked.

The tin used for roasting should, if possible,

be a double one, the under one being large

enough to hold a little water, wliich will prevent

the dripping in the upper portion from becoming

too hot and acquiring a burnt taste. The meat

should be placed on a small stand or trivet in the

baking-tin to prevent it soaking in the dripping

and becoming sodden. The tin should be large

enough to hold the meat comfortably without

projecting over the edges.

The first point in baking or roasting is to

expose the meat to a high temperature for ten

minutes in order to harden the outside and form

Double Koasting-Tin.

a coating, as it were, to prevent the escape of the

juice. Then the heat must be reduced and the

cooking continued until the joint is sufficiently

roasted.

During the process of cooking the meat ought

to be basted with dripping or butter at intervals

of 15 to 20 minutes to prevent its becoming

dried up. If the meat is not sufficiently fat

in itself a little extra dripping or butter should

j be added or kept in a jar on the top of the stove.

I The spoon used for basting ought to be laid on a

166

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

plate to prevent the drops of grease soiling the

stove.

There are one or two patent roasting-tins now

on the mau-ket which save tlie trouble of basting ;

one which bfistos the meat automatically \ out any trouble, and another where no attention

is required for either turning or basting.

It is very important that the oven should be

clean and well ventilated, otherwise the operation

of roasting will cause a most unpleasant smell.

It is impossible to lay down any exact rule

regarding the time for roasting meat, as the form

and thickness of the joint must always be taken

into consideration. A thin long piece of meat

would naturally take a shorter time to cook

than a thick soUd piece of equal weight. The

approximate time for cooking beef and mutton

is 15 minutes to the pound and 15 minutes over,

and for pork, lamb and veal, 20 minutes to the

pound and 20 minutes over ; but common-sense

and experience will be found to be the best

guides. Beef and mutton may be left rather

underdone if fancy dictates, but wliite meats are

unwholesome unless thoroughly cooked. If the

joint is large and thick it should be turned upside

down during part of the time to ensure the under

part being sufficiently cooked.

When the meat is ready lift it on to a hot dish

and keep it hot while the gravy is being made.

Pour the dripping from the tin into a jar and add

a small quantity of boiUng w-ater. Then with

an iron spoon scrape down any glaze or meat

juice which adheres to the side of the tin and add

stilt to taste. Never add colouring. If a large

quantity of gravy is required, a little stock

may be necessary, but any with a strong pro-

nounced flavour of vegetables should be avoided.

The pure juice of the meat is the best gravy.

Remove any grease from the surface of the gravy

with a piece of kitchen paper. Strain some of it

round the joint, and serve the surplus in a sauce-

boat, as it is awkward for the carver if the dish

is made too full.

BOILING

Although this is one of the simplest methods

of cooking meat, it is one which frequently meets

with failure. Instead of ha\ing a tender joint

full of juice, a piece of meat both tough and

tasteless will be served up. Boiling is best

suited to large joints ; in fact, nothing under three

or four pounds should be attempted.

If it is fresh meat, wipe and weigh the joint

the same as for rotisting and then plunge it

into a saucepan with sufficient boihng water to

cover \t. Boil quickly for 5 minutes to form a

casing on the outside of the meat, then draw the

saucepan to one side and allow it to simmer only

until sufficiently cooked. There should be just

a gentle bubbling on the surface of the water ;

if boiled hard the meat will be leathery and taste-

less.

Salt in the proportion of one table-spoonful to

a gallon of water should be added to the water,

and any scum that rises should be carefully

removed. Suitable vegetables, such as caa-rota,

turnips, or parsnips, should be cooked along with

the meat.

Salt meat should be put into cold or tepid

water to begin with in order to soften it and

draw out some of the salt. In fact, if it is very

salt it is a good plan to soak it in cold water for

some time before cooking. The time for boiling

will vary from 20 to 30 minutes to the pound and

20 or 30 minutes over according to the kind and

shape of the meat. It must be borne in mind

that boiled meat should never be underdone,

and it is better to err on the safe side and give

it too much time than to undercook it.

If the meat is to be served cold, it should be

allowed to cool in the water in which it was

cooked.

The usual gravy for boiled joints is some of

the liquor in which they are cooked A tasty

sauce can also be served separately, such as

caper sauce, or onion sauce with boiled mutton,

bechamel sauce with boiled lamb, horse-radish

sauce or tomato sauce with boiled beef, &c.

The remainder of the liquor in which the

meat has been cooked should be reserved for

making soup.

BRAISING

Take a stewpan with a tight-fitting lid and

place a few slices of fat bacon at the foot. On

the top of this put a layer of carrot, turnip,

onion, and celery cut in dice and in equal pro-

portions. Season with pepper, salt, and a small

bunch of herbs. Pour in enough stock or water

to reach tiie top of these ingredients and bring

to the boil. Place the meat to be braised on the

top and cover with greased paper so as to keep

down the steam, and cook slowly at the side of

the fire or in the oven. This method of cooking

makes tough meat tender and of good flavour.

The time will depend upon the size and kind of

meat.

FRYING

Dry Frying or, properly speaking, Saut61ng, is

cooking in a shallow pan with a small quantity of

fat. The fat should be made quite hot and then

the meat placed in and cooked on both sides.

Chops and steaks can be cooked in this way, but

they will not be so digestible as when grilled.

Deep Frying or Frying Proper. - Proceed in the

same way as for fish by this method (p. 131).

STEAMING

Both meat and poultry can be steamed by

placing them in a double cooker or patent

steamer, or even in a jar jjlaced in a saucepan of

boiling water. It is a slow method of cooking

and most suitabl" for tender pieces of meat.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

167

There must be plenty of steam or the process

will not be a success.

STEWING

Stewing means cooking in a small quantity of

liquid at a low temperature. It is one of the

most economical ways of cooking, firstly because

there is nothing lost, any juice that is drawn

from the meat being served in the gravy.

Secondly, because the coarser and cheaper

pieces of meat may be used as the long slow

cooking makes them tender ; and, thirdly, very

little fuel is required and very httle attention

when once the stew has been set going.

A stew is generally a mixtiu-e of meat and

vegetables, and success depends very much upon

the careful seasoning and blending of flavours.

Examples of several different kinds of stews will

be fovmd in the following recipes.

A stew may be cooked in a stewpan or in a jar

in the oven. A double saucepan is also very

useful for this mode of cooking or the saucepan

containing the stew may be placed in a larger

one containing hot water. The lid should be

removed as seldom as possible, and it should fit

the saucepan or jar tightly so as to avoid all

waste through evaporation.

The time for stewing will depend upon the

kind of meat used and the size of the pieces.

Stevrlng in Earthenware. - This method of

cooking is becoming very popular, and the simple

clay casseroles which can now be bought in so

many different shapes and sizes are admirably

adapted to the purpose. They have much to

recommend them from the point of view of

cleanliness ; they are easily cleaned and there is

no danger of rust. They are also economical

as far as fuel is concerned, as their heat-retaining

power being so great they wUl simmer for hours

over a gentle heat without burning the food.

They are not expensive to buy, and if proper care

is taken of them they will last a long time.

Food cooked in them is usually served in the

pot, hence the term " En Casserole," and therein

lies part of the novelty. A folded serviette may,

if liked, be pinned round the outside, but some

of the pots are so quaint and ornamental, this

rather spoils the effect.

There are different kinds of ware for cooking

purposes now on the market ; besides the all

brown clay-pot there is the brown and green

tire-proof ware with white or yellow linings and

the all white fire-proof china.

Little rechauffes of meat, fish, and poultry

can all be served up " en casserole," and it is

also an excellent method of stewing fruit.

BROILING OS GRILLING

This is cooking on a hot gridiron either over or

under a bright clear fire. The process can only

be applied to small thin pieces of meat, which

will cook quickly, such as chops, steak, kidneys,

joints of game and poultry, &c.

The meat chosen must always be of the best

quaUty, otherwise it ^dll be tough and uneatable.

It is impossible to obtain that red juicy appear-

ance which is essential to a good steak or chop

with inferior meat.

The state of the fii'e is one of the next points of

consideration. It ought to consist of glowing

red embers, without any smoke or flame. A

handful of salt sprinkled over it sometimes

helps to disperse any smoke.

Place the gridiron, which must be very clean,

over the fire and allow it to become hot, then

grease it with a piece of fat or suet held on the

end of a fork. The gridiron must be placed or

held in a slanting position and from three to six

inches above the coals, according to the intensity

of the heat. Lay the meat on it and let one side

cook while you count ten at about the same rate

as the ticlang of a clock, then turn with the

steak tongs or the blades of two knives and cook

the same length of time on the other side, and

repeat the process until the meat is sufficiently

cooked. The regular turning is very important,

as it means slower cooking and prevents the

surface from being burned.

The time must be regulated by the thickness

rather than by the weight of the meat, and ex-

perience alone can teach when the chop or steak

is done to a nicety. Touch is the best guide.

If, when pressed with the back of a fork, the meat

feels spongy and very elastic it is still in a raw

state ; if, on the other hand, it is hard and without

resistance it is overcooked. Tlae aim must be to

hit the happy medium and serve the meat well

browned on both sides before that puffed appeaj-

ance has disappeared and all the steam of the

juices has escaped through the crust.

Broihng can also be done in a hanging gridiron

in front of a clear fire, but the result is not so

satisfactory.

When a gas stove is used the grilling is done

underneath the light instead of on the top (see

p. 96). A little water put in the dripping tin

will prevent the fat catching fire.

BEEF AND MUTTON

Boiled Salt Beef

Choose a nice piece of salt beef, aitchbone,

rotmd or brisket, and bind it up firmly with a

piece of tape to prevent it having a ragged

appearance when cooked. (For Boiling Salt

Meat, see p. 166.)

It is usual to cook vegetables along with this

meat. Prepare a supply of carrots, turnips, and

onions in proportion to the size of the meat ;

keep the onions whole, cut the carrots into three

or four pieces lengthwise, and the turnips in

thick slices. Wlien the meat has come to the

boil add the vegetables, or if the meat is very

large put them in rather later so that they do not

168

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

become too much cooked. Small dumplings are

also a favourite accompaniment to tliis dish.

For servang lift the meat on to a hot dish and

remove the tape. A silver skewer may be put

in to keep the meat together. Garnish with the

vegetables and dumplingrs placed alternately

round the dish. Strain a little of the liquid

round and serve an extra supply in a sauce-boat.

A dish of green vegetables may be served

separately.

Dumplings to Serve vrlth Meat

IngredienU -

4 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A little Water or Milk.

6 oi. Flour.

2 oz. Suet.

1 tea-gpoonful Salt. I

Method. - Chop the suet and mix it lightly

with the flour, salt, and baking powder. Bind

all together with water or milk and knead lightly.

The dough must be soft without being sticky.

Make it up into small balls and cook them from

ten to fifteen minutes beside the meat. The

water must be kept simmering all the time they

are in. Serve at once, or they will be heavy.

Roast Beef

(Fr. BcEuf Roti)

The best joints for roasting are the sirloin

and the ribs. The round and aitchbone can

also be cooked in this way, but to be successful

the meat requires to be very tender. If a large

sirloin has to be roasted it is a good plan to cut

a piece off the thin end and either stew or cook

it in some other way, as if roasted with the

rest of the joint it is apt to become overcooked

before the other part is ready.

Ribs of beef are often better boned and rolled

before roasting ; it makes a neater joint and is

more economical, as the bones Asith all their

goodness can be used for soup. (For Roasting

and Making the Gravy, see p. 165.)

A little shredded horse-radish may be used as

a garnish, or horse-radish sauce may be served

separately. Yorkshire pudding (p. 193) and roast

or baked potatoes are the usual accompaniments.

Grilled Steak

The steak must be cut from a well-hung juicy

piece of meat. The beet are from the rump or

fillet or from the tender part of the round. The

steak should be cut from IJ to IJ inches in thick-

ness. Wipe it with a damp cloth and trim off

any superfluous fat. Beat the meat slightly

with a cutlet bat and then make it as shapely aa

possible. If small round steaks are required, it is

best to use the fillet cut in slices. Moisten both

sides of the meat with a little salad oil or melted

butter, place it on a well-heated gridiron and

cook according to directions given for broiling.

The time will vary from twelve to fifteen

minutes according to the thickness of the meat,

and also upon wliether it is liked very underdone

or well cooked. Serve at once on a very hot

dish and put a pat of maitre d'h6tel butter on

the top. The heat of the meat should melt the

butter and the parsley should look fresh and

green.

A little water-cress may be iised as a garnish,

or a few small baked tomatoes may be put round

the dish. Potato chips or balls should be served

separately.

Braised Round of Beef

(Fr. Boeuf k la Casserole)

Ingredients -

3 lbs. Round of Beef.

2 oz. good Dripping.

Trimmings of Ham

Bacon.

1 Carrot

1 Onion.

Bunch of Herbs.

1 pint Stock.

Seasoning.

Metlwd. - Put the dripping and some trim-

mings of ham and bacon into a stewpan, and,

when melted, put in the vegetables cut in pieces

and the seasonings. Tie the meat into a neat

shape with a piece of tape, and when the contents

of the saucepan are hot place it on the top with

any bones or scraps round the sides. Put on the

lid and cook slowly for twenty minutes until the

meat has taken colour. Add the stock and, if

Hked, a glass of white wine. Cook slowly from

three to four hours untU the meat is thoroughly

tender. Lift it on to a hot dish, remove the

tape, and keep it warm while the gravy is pre-

pared. If the liquid in the saucepan has reduced

very much add a little stock, and strain into

another saucepan. Boil for a few minutes,

remove any grease from the top, pour some of

this gravy round the meat, and serve the re-

mainder separately.

A puree of potato is a good accompaniment

with this dish.

Scotch Collops

Ingredients -

1 lb. lean juicy Beef.

2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs,

1 oz. Beef Dripping, Butten

or Bacon Fat

1 Onion.

J pint Stock.

Pepper and Salt.

1 tea-sp. Flavouring Sauce.

1 Slice of Toast.

Method. - Have the meat minced along with a

small proportion of fat. Melt the one ounce of

fat into a stewpan, and, when hot, put in the

onion finely chopped and the meat. Pound well

with a Mooden spoon until nicely browned. Add

the stock and seasoning and simmer slowly for

half-an-hour. Add the bread-crumbs about ten

minutes before it is ready, so as to absorb the

grease. Serve garnished with small crotltona of

toast.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

169

Haricot of Ox-Tail

{Fr, Queue de Boeiif en Haricot)

Ingredients -

1 Ox-tail.

1 pint Brown Stock.

1 Carrot, 1 Turnip, and 1

Onion.

A sprig of Parsley, Thyme,

and Marjoram.

1 Bay Leaf.

1 stick of Celery.

2 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Flour.

Pepper and Salt.

1 glass of Claret.

GarnWi.

Fancy shapes of Carrot and

Turnip or Glazed Onions.

Method. - Wash the tail, and cut it in pieces,

removing any superfluous fat. Put them into

cold water, and bring to the boil. Boil for ten

minutes, then strain and rinse the pieces of tail.

Dry them well, and coat them with the flour.

Melt the butter in a saucepan ; when smoking

hot put in the tail, and fry a nice brown colour.

Add some small pieces of vegetable, the herbs,

stock, and seasoning. Cover the pan, and

simmer slowly from three to four hours, skimming

when necessary. When the tail is tender lift

the pieces on to a hot dish. Skim the sauce,

add the wine, and strain through a fine strainer

over and round the tail. Garnish with fancy

shapes of carrot and turnip which have been

cooked separately.

Beef Creams

(Fr. Cremes de Bceuf)

Ingredienta-

i lb. lean juicy Beef.

Pepper and Salt.

Pur^e of Spinach or Potato.

1 table-sp. Brown Sauce.

lEffg.

2 table-sp. whipped Cream.

1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 des.-sp. chopped Mush-

rooms.

Brown or Piquante Sauce.

1 gill Stock.

1 oz. Butter.

Panada

I 2 oz. Flour.

Method. - Greaae six or seven small entree

moulds, and decorate them at the foot with

chopped parsley and mushrooms.

To Prepare the Cream. - ^Remove all skin and

fat from the meat, and pass it through the

mincing machine. Make a panada with the

stock, butter, and flour ; put the stock and

butter into a saucepan, bring them to the boil,

and sprinkle in the flour. Then mix until

perfectly smooth, and cook thorouglily. Put

this panada into a mortar with the meat, brown

sauce, egg, and seasoning. Pound well, and rub

all through a wire sieve. Add the cream and

the remainder of the parsley and mushrooms.

Mix lightly, and fill up the prepared moulds.

Place these in a shallow pan or tin with a double

fold of paper at the foot. Pour in enough boiling

water to come half-wayup the sides of the moulds,

and cover with greased paper. Steam slowly for

fifteen minutes, or until the creams feel firm to

the touch. Lift them out, and allow them to

stand for a minute or two. Then unmoxild

them carefully, and dish on a puree of potato or

spinach and poiu" brown sauce or piquante

sauce round.

Required-"

Beef Olives

Force-meat

IJ lb. Beef (cut thin).

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

1 oz. Flour.

J pint Stock.

1 dessert-spoonful Ketchup.

Pepper and Salt.

3 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

1 table-sp. chopped Suet or

melted Butter.

1 tea-sp. chopped Pargley.

i tea-sp. mixed Herbs.

Pepper and Salt.

Egg or Milk to bind.

Method. - First prepare the force-meat. Put

the bread-crumbs into a basin, and add to them

the parsley, herbs, suet or butter, pepper and

salt. Mix all together, and add enough milk or

beaten egg to bind, but do not make the mixture

too moist.

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and cut it

into oblong-shaped pieces, suitable for rolling

up, and as much one size and shape as possible.

Any nice pieces of meat that are too small or

ragged to make into rolls may be cut up and

rolled inside the other pieces, also some small

pieces of hard fat. Spread out all the strips of

meat on a board, put some of the force-meat into

the centre of each, and roll them up. Tie round

with a piece of coarse thread or fine twine, and

roll them in the flour. Melt the dripping or

butter in a stewpan, and when smoking hot put

in the rolls of meat and keep turning them over

with a spoon until they are browned on all sides.

Lift them out on to a plate as they are ready,

and when all are done, pour away the fat from the

pan and add the stock. Add also the seasonings,

bring to the boil, and skim well. Return the

rolls of meat, put the Ud on the pan, and simmer

very slowly from one and a half to two hours, or

until the meat feels quite tender.

To Serve. - Lift out the beef oHves on to a hot

dish, remove the strings, and arrange them

neatly down the centre of the dish. Strain the

gravy over and round. Garnish with a little

very finely chopped parsley, green peas, or carrot

and turnip cut in fancy shapes.

Note. - Some finely chopped ham or tongue

may be added to the stuffing, also a little

chopped onion if desired. Or a tiu-ned ohve,

an oyster, or some chopped mushrooms may be

put inside. Sometimes sausage meat is used

instead of the above force-meat. The beef olives

may, if liked, be dished on a border of potatoes

or spinach.

Instead of cutting the meat in pieces it may

be made in one large roll. Veal olives can be

done in the same way.

170

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Russian Steaks

{Fr. Biftecks 4 la Russe)

Ingredients -

1 lb. tender Steak.

i lb. Fillet of Veal.

1 small Shallot

chopped.

lEfor.

finely

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

2 oz. clarified Fat.

Tomato Suuce.

Method. - Remove all skin from the meat, cut

it in pieces, and pass it twice tlirough the

mincing machine. Then put it into a basin, and

add the shallot, parsley, and seasoning. Moisten

with the egg well beaten, and mix well. Spread

the mixture on a plate, and allow it to set for

half-an-hour. Then di%'ide it into eight or ten

equal-sized pieces. Form each piece into a

round flattish cake, using flour to prevent the

mixture from sticking to the board, and egg and

bread-crumb them. Then flatten the steaks

with a knife and re -shape them. Melt the fat in

a frying-pan. When smoking hot, put in the

steaks, and fry them first on one side and then

on the other until nicely browned. They will

require fully ten minutes to cook. Drain them

well, and serve in a circle on a hot dish. Pom-

tomato sauce round.

Note. - These steaks may, if liked, be dished

on a border of potatoes (p. 156), and green peas

used as a garnish.

Tripe with Tomatoes

{Fr. Tripes a I'ltaiienne)

Ingredients-

\i lbs. dressed Tripe,

li 02. Butter.

1 cupful Tomato Sauce.

2 table sp. Orated Cheese.

i lb. Mushrooms.

Stock.

2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

Seasoning.

Method. - Wash the tripe in warm water and

cut it in thin strips. Put it into a stewpan with

the mushrooms peeled and sliced, the butter,

seasoning, and enough light stock to cover.

Stew slowly until the tripe is tender, add the

tomato sauce and cook a few minutes longer.

Arrange the stew in a fire-proof dish, sprinkle

the bread-crumbs and cheese over the top, and

brown in the oven.

Boiled ToDgue with Caper Sauee

(Fr. Langue de Boeuf - Sauce aux Cfipres)

Rehired -

1 Fresh ToDgue. A bunch of Herbs.

1 Carrot. Salt.

Turnip. Caper Sauce.

1 On.oD stack with Cloved.

Method. - Trim the tongue, removing any un-

tidy-looking pieces from the root end. Put it

into a saucepan with cold water to cover, bring

to the boil and boil for ten minutes. Strain and

rinse away any scum with fresh water. Cov"r

the tongue again with M'arm water, add the

ti'immings, and, when boiling, add the vegetables

cut in pieces and the other seasonings. Cook

slowly for four hours or until the tongue is qviite

tender, then lift it up on a hot dish ; remove the

skin and cut it in halves without quite severing

the pieces. Make some caper sauce (see p. 142),

adding to it two yolks of eggs and mask the

tongue with this.

Stuffed and Roast Shoulder of Mutton

Required -

A shoulder of Mutton.

4 oz. Bread-crumba.

IJ oz. chopped Suet.

A little grated Lemon Rind

1 table-sp. chopped Parsley.

A little Milk, or 1 Egg.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

Method. - Remove the bone from the mutton,

wipe it well with a damp cloth, and season with

pepper and salt. Then prepare the stuffing : -

Put all the dry ingredients into a basin, and

season to taste. A little finely chopped ham

or tongue may be added or some finely powdered

herbs. Add enough beaten egg or milk to bind

all together into a stiffish paste. Place this in

the centre of the mutton and either sew it in or

strap it into shape with a piece of tape. Weigh

the joint and then roast according to directions

given on p. 165.

Remove the tape or sewing-cotton before

serving and keep in shape with a silver skewer.

Pour a plain gi*avy round and garnish with

small baked tomatoes.

Ingredients -

\\ lbs. of Mutton.

1 lb. Potatoes.

3 Onions.

A little Parsley.

Hot Pot

2 Sheep's Kidneys.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

}"pint Stock.

Pepper aud Salt.

Method. - This dish should be cooked and

served in an earthenware pot. Trim the meat

and kidneys and cut them into small neat pieces.

SUce the onions thinly and scald them in boiling

water a few minutes. Peel the potatoes, cut

a few of them in halves or quarters, and slice

the remainder rather thickly. Arrange the in-

gredients in layers in the dish, seasoning each

with a little pepper and salt. The last layer

should be the pieces of potato. Pour in the

stock and put the butter or dripping in pieces

on the top. Cover with the lid or twist a piece

of strong paper over the top, and cook in the

oven from one and a half to two hours. About

half-an-hour before serving remove the cover

and allow the top to become a nice brown

colour. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley

and serve in the dish.

Note. - Beef or veal may be used instead of

mutton. A few mushrooma may bљ added if

liked.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

171

Dutch Stew

Ingredients -

Ij lbs. Mutton.

1 tender Cabbage.

1 gill warm Water.

4 or 5 Potatoes.

1 Spanish Onion.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Wipe the meat and cut it in con-

venient-sized pieces. Put it into an earthenware

stewpan, add water and seasoning, and simmer

for half-an-hour. Then add potatoes sliced and

cabbage carefully prepared and cut in six or

eight pieces. Replace the lid and stew from

three-quartei-s to one hoiu" longer. Add more

seasoning if necessary and serve in the casserole.

Note. - Any bones shovdd be stewed with the

meat and lifted out before serving.

Mutton Cutlets

(Fr. Cotelettes de Mouton)

Required -

li lb. best end of the Neck

of Mutton.

Pepper and Salt

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

Frying Fat.

A Potato Border.

Brown, Tomato, or Piquante

Sauce.

Method. - For mutton cutlets the meat shoiild

be very small, and the butcher should be in-

structed to saw off the chine bone, since when this

is done the cutlets can be easily divided without

the aid of a saw or chopper. Wipe the meat

first with a damp cloth, then cut it with a very

sharp knife, allowing a bone to each cutlet.

(This quantity should make five.) Trim off

the fat, leaving only a narrow rim, and scrape

one inch of the bone at the end quite clean to

allow of a cutlet fiiU '^ing put on afterwards.

Scrape also the bone on the inner side, and if

too long and unsightly, chop a piece off from

each, but make all the cutlets as nearly as

possible the same shape and size.

Season them with pepper and salt, brush over

with well-beaten egg, and coat with finely made

bread-crumbs. Put the cutlets on a board and

re -shape them with a clean dry knife, and remove

all crumbs from the inside bone. Then lay them

on a dish or tin with a double paper under them,

and they are ready for cooking.

To Cook the Cutlets. - Melt about two otince

of clarified fat in a frjdng-pan, and allow it to

become smoking hot over the fire. Then lay in

the cutlets, and fry them rather slowly, first on

one side and then on the other, until they are

nicely browned. They will require from eight

to ten minutes to cook. Drain them well on the

kitchen-paper before dishing.

To Serve the Cutlets. - Arrange a border of

mashed potatoes on a hot dish and arrange

the cutlets on the top of this, one leaning

against the other, and with all the bones to

the inside. The ends of the bones may be gar-

nished with small cutlet frills. Pour brown,

tomato, piquante, or any other suitable sauce

round. (See Sauces.)

Uotea. - ^The outleta may be dished in a straight

1 small Apple.

J pint Stock

A little Chutney.

Pepper and Salt.

Boiled Eice.

row down the dish instead of in a circle. Spiiiacli

may be used in place of potato, or the cutlets

may be dished without either.

Green peas, small baked tomatoes, or a

macedoine of vegetable may be put in the centre

as a garnish.

Curry of Kidneys

Ingredients -

4 or 5 Sheep's Kidneys,

i oz. Butter.

1 dessert-sp. Kice Flour.

1 tea-sp. Curry Powder.

1 table-spoonful Cream.

1 small Onion.

Method. - ^Melt the butter in a stewpan or

eaxthenware casserole, put in the kidneys, split

and skirmed, and cook them for a few minutes.

Skin and slice the onion very thinly, peel and

chop the apple, and put these two into the pan

with the kidneys. Fry for a few minutes, then

add the rice flour, cm-ry powder, chutney,

pepper, and salt. Mix weU, and pour in the

stock. Allow the kidneys to stew slowly in this

sauce until they are quite tender, from half to

three-quarters of an hovu-. Add a httle cream

at the last, and serve with boiled rice.

Note. - Veal kidney may be used instead of

sheep's, but it will take rather a longer time to

cook.

Grilled Sheep's Kidneys

{Fr. Rognons de Mouton Grille)

Ingredients -

6 Sheep's Kidneys. Croiitons of Fried Bread or

IJ oz. Butter. Buttered Toast.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - ^The kidneys must be very fresh.

Take off the thin skin which covers them, and

spht them open without separating the two

parts. Remove the white tube or duct, and cut

away the fat from the middle. Hold the kidneys

open and pierce them from one side to the other

with small wooden or silver skewers. Melt the

butter and brush the kidneys over with it,

season them with pepper and salt, and sprinkle

them with a few bread-crvunbs. W^arm a grid-

iron, grease the bars, place the kidneys on it

with the cut-side downwards, and grill over a clear

fire for about eight minutes. Turn the kidneys

frequently whilst they are cooking. When done,

place them on a hot dish, with a croflton under

each, and remove the skewers if they are wooden

ones. The hollows in the kidneys may be filled

with mSitre d'hotel butter and devil sauce may

be served separately.

Sheep's Tongues k la Maddre

{Fr. Langues de Mouton a I'ltalienne)

Ingredients -

4 Sheep's Tongues I 1 pint Madeira Sanoe.

IJ pint Stock. I

Method. - Sheep's tongues may be bought

either fresh or pajrtially boiled. If freah, soak

172

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

them in salt and water for two or three houra,

and then rinse them. Put them into a stowpan

with enough well -flavoured stock to cover them,

and simmer slowly about two hours or until

tender. If partially cooked, the tongues will

not require soaking, and from half to three-

quarters of an hour will be sufficient to cook

them. When ready take them up, remove the

skin, trim the roots, and cut each tongue in

tliree lengthways. Put them into a ste%vpan

with the sauce, and simmer for ten minutes.

Tlien dish the pieces of tongue neatly, and pour

the sauce over.

Lamb Cutlets with Chestnuts

{Fr. C

Ingredients -

8 or 9 Larab Cutlets 1 oz. Butter.

Pepper and Salt. A pinch of Salt.

2 oz. Butter. A pinch of Sugar.

Brown Sauce. Water.

1 lb. Chestnuts. A little Stock or Milk.

Method. - Prepare the pur6e of chestnuts

(p. 126), and keep it warm.

Trim and cook the cutlets in the same way as

mutton cutlets (p. 171), and arrange them in a

crown on a hot dish with the pur6e of chestnuts

in the centre. Pour a good brown sauce (not

too thick) round the dish.

Ragout of Lamb with Green Peas

(Fr. Ragotit d'Agneau aux Petita Pois)

Ingredients -

2 lbs. Breast or Neck of

Lamb.

2 oz. Butter.

1 table-gpoonful Flour.

1 pint Shelled Peas.

1 Lump Sugar.

Seasoning.

Some light Stock.

A sprig of Mint.

A small bunch of Herbs.

Method. - Cut the meat in neat pieces and

sprinkle it with the flour. Melt the butter in a

Btewpan, put in the meat and brown it slightly.

Add the seasonings, peas, and enough light stock

or meat boilings to cover. Stew slowly for

one and a quarter hours or until the lamb is quite

tender. Lift out the mint and herbs before

serving. One or two table-spoonfuls of crram

added to it at the last will be an improvement.

Note. - Veal or mutton may be cooked in the

same way.

Lamb

's Fry

(Ft. Foie et Fressure d'Agneau)

y ngrp(ii^nts^~~'

I.amb's Fry.

1 Onion.

Parsley.

2 oz. Butter.

Lemon Juice.

Method. - Wash and dry the fry, then cut the

liver in sUcea and the heart and lungs in small

pieces. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the

onion finely chopped, and fry it a hght brown

colour. Then put in the heart and lungs and

stir them over the fire for seven or eight minutes.

Add the liver and seasoning and cook for ten

minutes longer or until all is well browned.

Sprinkle with parsley, add the lemon juice, and

serve very hot. This dish is suitable to serve

en casserole.

PORK AND VEAL

Pork Cutlets

(Fr. Cotelettes de Pore)

Ingredients -

5 or 6 Pork Cutlets. i 1 table-spoonful Flour.

Seasoning. 1 Fried Apples.

Method. - The cutlets should be taken from

the loin or best end of the neck and must not

be more than half an inch in thickness. Trim

them neatly, removing most of the fat, and try

to make them of uniform shape. Season with

pepper and salt and coat lightly wnth flour.

Melt some of the fat trimmings in a frj'ing-pan,

and fry the cutlets in this. Cook slowly, turning

them three or four times. Serve them on a very

hot dish and garnish with fried apples.

Fried Apples. - Cut some rather acid apples

in quarters. Remove the core, but not the

skin. Then fry the pieces in butter until tender

but not broken.

Note. - Apple sauce may be served instead of

the fried apples.

To Boil a Ham

(Fr. Jambon Bouilli)

Soak in lukewarm water at least twelve hours

before cooking, then scrape it and weigh it.

Put it into a saucepan with sufficient lukewarm

water to cover it (if the ham is very salt, cold

water will be better), bring to the boil, and

skin well. Then simmer slowly until the ham

is cooked. Allow from twenty-five to thirty

minutes to the pound according to the kind and

thickness of the ham. It is ready when the skin

peels off ea.sily. A few vegetables may be

cooked with the ham if liked, or sometimes a

pint of ale or a gill of brown vinegar is added

to give the ham a more mellow flavour. If the

ham is to be served cold, allow it to cool in the

water in which it was boiled. Then remove the

rind and trim the fat. Sprinkle with brown

bread-crumbs and brown sugar, and, if liked,

stick in a few cloves. Place in the oven for a

few minutes to brown. Fasten a paper frill

round the knuckli^.

If the ham is to be served hot, lift it from the

water when cooked, and remove the skin. Then

place it in the oven for a few minutes, and brush

it over with liquid glaze. Serve with greens,

Brussels sprouts, spinaoh, green peas, &c.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

173

Ingredients -

\ Pig's Head (salted).

2 Onions.

6 Cloves.

1 dozen Peppercorns.

1 blade of Mace.

Brawn

A sprig of Parsley, Thyme

and Jilarjoram.

1 Carrot.

1 Turnip.

Cold Water.

Method. - Wash the head thoroughly in tepid

water, and remove all gristle and soft parts from

the nostrils. Rinse well in cold water. Then

put the head into a large saucepan with sufficient

cold water to cover it, and bring slowly to the

boil. Skim well, and add the vegetables cut in

pieces and the herbs tied in a piece of muslin.

Simmer slowly from three to four hours until the

flesh will leave the bones easily, and skim when

necessary. Then strain the liquid into a large

basin and put the head on a dish. Next day cut

the tongue and the meat from the head into small

pieces, removing gristle and any superfluous fat.

Skim all fat carefully off the stock, and return

it to a saucepan with the bones from the head.

Boil quickly until reduced to about half the

quantity, and then strain over the meat. Let

this stand until slightly cooled, add more

seasoning if necessary, and then pour into

wetted moulds. Set aside until cold, and when

firm, turn out on a dish and garnish with parsley.

Notes.- li Uked, the moulds may first be

decorated with sUces of hard-boiled eggs.

The feet may be cooked along with the head

if wished.

Breast of Veal Stuffed and Roasted

Ingredients -

3 or 4 lbs. Breast of Veal.

6 oz. Bread-crumbs.

3 oz. chopped ,Suet.

i Lemon Rind Grated.

2 oz. Cooked Ham.

Seasoning.

1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.

lEgg.

A little Milk.

Method.- Remove all the bones from the veal

(these rnust be kept for making stock of soup).

Then trim and season the meat and lay it out

on a board with the skin side underneath

Prepare the stuffing as for roast shoulder of

mutton (p. 170), adding to it the ham chopped

finely. Spread the stuffing over the veal, roll

up and fasten securely with a needle and fine

string Then flour the meat and roast it care-

fully, basting well. When ready Hft the roll on

to a hot dish, remove the sewing, and pour thin

tomato or brown sauce round. Garnish with

rolls of bacon (p. 174).

Ingredients

Steamed Veal with Celery

2 lbs. Fleshy Veal.

\ lb. Bacon.

A few Parsley Stalks.

1 Onion.

1 Head Celery.

Seasoning.

Parsley Sauce.

Method. - Trim the veal and bind it up with

a piece of tape. Put it into a double cooker with

the bacon cut in strips, the parsley stalks, and

seasoning. Use the white part only of the

celery, cut it in small pieces and the onion in

quarters. Add these to the veal and steam

slowly for two hours or until the veal is tender.

Lift it on to a hot dish, remove the tape, place the

vegetables, &c., round and smother in parsley

sauce made with white stock.

Jellied Veal

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Grated Bind of half Lemon.

Pepper and Salt.

Ingredients -

1 lb. Fillet of Veal.

\ lb. fat Bacon.

1 gill Jelly Stock.

2 hard-boiled Eggs.

Method. - Take a plain tin mould and decorate

the foot of it with a few slices of hard-boiled egg

and a little chopped parsley. Wipe the veal

with a damp cloth, remove all skin and bone,

and cut it into small neat pieces. Remove all

skin and gristle from the bacon, and cut it into

narrow strips. Mix the veal and bacon together

on a plate with the remainder of the eggs cut in

pieces and the seasonings. Pack this mixture

loosely into the prepared mould, melt the stock,

and pour it over. Should the stock not be

sufficiently stiff, dissolve a little gelatine in it

first, and if no stock is at hand, boil the bones

from the veal for about half-an-hotir with a

little water and small pieces of flavouring

vegetables, then strain. Fill up the mould with

the stock, cover over with greased paper, and

bake in a slow oven for two hours, iviien

ready, the veal should feel quite tender when

it is tested with a fork. If necessary, fill up the

mould with a httle more stock, and set aside to

cool. When wanted, turn out on a dish, and

garnish with parsley or some fresh salad.

Note. - Rabbit may be prepared in the sajne

way.

Veal Olives

Prepare and cook in the same way as beef

oUves, adding a Uttle chopped ham and grated

lemon rind to the stuffing.

Ingredients-

Veal Cream

{Fr. Creme de Veau)

} lb. Fillet of Veal.

1 oz. raw Ham.

1 gill thick Cream.

1 gill Bechamel or Velout^

Sauce.

2 Eggs.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

Grated rind of J Lemon.

Velout^ or Bechamel Sauce, Green Peas.

Method. - Wipe the veal, cut it in small pieces,

and put it twice through a mincing machine with

the ham. Put this minced meat into a mortar,

add the eggs, sauce, and seasonings. Pound all

well together, and rub through a fine wire sieve.

Put this puree into a basin. \Vhip the cream

lightly and mix it with the pvu-6e of meat. Pour

174

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

all into s well-greaeed mould or moulds. The

moulds must not be more than three-quarters

filled. Place them in a saucepan resting on a

double fold of kitchen-paper. Pour in enough

hot water to come half-way up the sides, cover

with greastxl paper, and steam very slowly until

the cream faels firm to the touch. About three-

quarters of an hour if a large mould, from fifteen

to twenty minutes if the moulds are small.

Turn out carefully, and coat with bechamel

or velout^ sauce, and garnish with green peas.

Note. - ^This may be made richer and of a more

delicate texture byusing 1 J pint of cream with the

purfe of meat, and no sauce and no eggs. Or,

plainer, by using i pint sauce, one or two eggs,

and no cream. The mixture, especially when

containing much cream, must be steemied very

gently.

Veal and Ham Cutlets

{Fr. Cotelettes de Veau)

Bread-crumbs.

Fat for frying.

A Border of Potatoes

Spinach.

Brown or Tomato Sauce.

Slices of Lemon.

IngredietUa -

) lb. Fillet of VeaL

3 or 4 oz. of Bacon.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

lEgg.

A little grated Lemon Bind

and Lemon Juice.

1 tea-sp. melted Butter.

Method. - Have the veal cut in a slice about

Linch thick. Wipe it with a damp cloth, and

at it slightly with a wetted cutlet bat or rolling-

pin. Trim it into nice oblong-shaped pieces, free

from skin and bone, and squeeze a very Uttle

lemon juice over each. Beat up the egg on a

plate, and add to it pepper, salt, the chopped

parsley, grated lemon rind, and melted butter.

(The butter is added to soften the veal.) Brush

over each of the cutlets with this, and then

bread-crumb them. Press the bread-cn.imbs

well on with a knife, re-shape the cutlets neatly,

and lay them on a tin or dish with double paper

imdor them ready for frying.

Have the bacon cut in thin slices, remove all

rind and rust from it, and roll it up into neat

little rolls. Place these on a skewer, and cook

them on a tin in the oven for about ten minutes

while tJi9 cutlets are being fried.

To Cook the Cutlela. - Fry in a small quantity

of fat in a frying-pan (see p. 166). They will

take from ten to twelve minutes to cook and

should bo well done. Drain on paper.

To Serve the Cutlets. - Make ready a border of

spinach or potatoes on a hot dish, and dish the

cutlets along the top, one leaning against the

other. Pour some brown or tomato sauce round,

and place the rolls of bacon in the centre or

round the sides. Cut one or two thin slices of

lemon, quarter these slices, and place a piece of

lemon between eskch cutlet.

Note. - Tlie cutlets may be served without the

border of potatoes or spinach, and green peas

or any other suitable vegetable used as a gsuTiish.

Stewed Veal Kidney

(Fr. Bognons de Veau Saut^)

Ingredients -

1 cupful of good Stock or

Gravy.

3 Veal Kidneys.

2 oz. Butter.

1 small Onion.

Pepper and Salt.

1 oz. Flour.

A few Mushrooms.

Juice of i Lemon.

1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 oz. Butter.

1 gill Button MuBhroomB.

1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.

1 table-spoonful Sherry.

Method. - Remove the skin from the kidneys,

and cut them in halves lengthwise. Take out

the white nerve from the centre, and cut each

half into thin slices. Melt the butter in a small

stewpan, add the onion finely chopped, and

brown it slightly. Then put in the kidneys,

pepper and salt, and stir briskly over the fire

untU the pieces are aU equally coloured. Sprinkle

with the flour and mix well. Add the stock and

wine, and stir until boiUng. A few muslirooms,

sliced and cooked with the kidney, will be an im-

provement. Cook slowly from fifteen to twenty

minutes, and add the lemon juice and parsley

at the last.

Calf's Liver Sautd

(Fr. Foie de Veau Saut6)

Ingredients -

1} lbs. Calf s Liver.

1 table-spoonful Flour.

1 teacupful Stock or Gravy.

Pepper and Salt.

A little finely chopped

Parsley.

Method. - Wash the Uver well in several waters

and dry it in a cloth. Then cut it in slices

1 inch in thickness, and coat these very lightly

with flour. Melt the butter in a frjang or saut6

pan. When quite hot, put in the liver, and fry

gently for twenty minutes, until the liver is a

nice brown colour and thoroughly cooked. Lift

the pieces on to a plate, and pour away all fat

from the pan. Pour in the gravy, add the

mushrooms cut in halves and the seasonings,

and stir for a few minutes. Then return the

liver, and cook it for five minutes in the sauce.

Dish neatly with the gravy poured over and

round, and sprinkle with a little finely chopped

parsley.

Note. - Tlio mushrooms may be omitted.

Calves' Brains In Saace

(Fr. Cervelles de Veau en Sauce)

Ingredients -

2 or 8 sets Calves' Brains.

White Stock.

I oz. Butter.

I oz. Flour.

Pepper and Salt.

2 yolks of Eggs.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

6 rounds of Fried Bread.

Method. - The brains must be very fresh.

Blanch them and remove any clots of blood and

fibre. Put them into a saucepan with white

stock to cover and simmer gently for twenty

minutes; then strain. Make a sauce with the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

175

butter, flour, and about half a pint stock from

the brains. When well cooked, add the yolks

of eggs, seasoning, and lemon juice. Reheat the

brains in this, but do not boil again. Serve on

small rounds of fried or toasted bread and

garnish with chopped parsley.

Note. - Sheep's brains may be cooked in the

same way.

Calf's Feet with Poulette Sauce

{Fr. Pieds de Veau a la Poulette)

Ingredients -

2 Calf's Feet. I 1 pint Poulette Sauce.

2 plDts White Stock. I

Method. - Put the feet into a saucepan with

cold water to cover them, bring to boiling point,

and throw the water away. Rinse well and

return the feet to the saucepan with enough

light stock or meat boilings to cover them, and

simmer gently for four hoiu-s. Then remove the

bones, and press the feet between two dishes

with a weight on the top untU they are cold.

Cut them into small neat pieces and simmer for

five minutes in the sauce. Serve garnished with

crolitons of toast.

Braised Sweetbreads

(Fr. Ris de Veau, braisee)

Ingredients -

1 pair Calf 8 Sweetbreads. Jpint Browu Sauce.

1 Carrot. A Croiiton of Bread.

1 Turnip. Chopped Parsley.

1 Onion. J pint Stock.

Method - To Prepare the Sweetbreads. - Wash

them well and then soak in salt and water for

at least half-an-hour. Then rinse and put it

into a saucepan with enough cold water to cover.

Bring to the boil and pour the water away.

Throw the sweetbread again into cold water,

and trim off all fat with the fingers. Tlien press

between two plates until cold.

To Braise the Stveetbreads. - Prepare the

vegetables, cut them in rough pieces, and put

them into a stewpan. Pour the stock over and

warm slightly. Then lay the sweetbread on

the top, cover with greased paper, and braise

carefully from thirty to forty minutes. When

the sweetbread is tender, lift it out and place it

on a croflton of fried bread in an entree dish.

Brush it over with liquid glaze, and pour the

sauce round. Garnish with, button mushrooms

which have been cut in halves and warmed in a

little stock. Sprinkle some very finely chopped

parsley over.

Sweetbreads " en Casserole "

(Fr. Ris de Veau en Casserole)

Ingredients -

1 pair Calf 8 Sweetbreads.

White Stock.

A Bunch of Herbs.

1 Onion.

1 oz. Butter.

} oz. Flour.

A little Cream.

Seasoning.

Method. - Prepare the sweetbreads as in last

recipe, and, after pressing, cut them in neat

pieces. Put them into an earthenware sauce-

pan with white stock to cover them, an onion

cut in pieces, and a small bunch of herbs. Simmer

for three-quarters of an hoiir or until tender ;

then strain and make a sauce with the butter,

flour, and stock. Return the sweetbread with-

out the herbs, &c., and stew a few minutes

longer. Season to taste and add cream at the

last. Serve in the saucepan.

Galantine of Veal

(Fr. Galantine de Veau)

Ingredients -

3 or 4 lbs. Breast of Veal. lb. Ham or Tongue.

1 lb. Sausage Meat. 2 hard-boiled Eggs.

Seasoning. TrufileB.

Glaze. Aspic Jelly.

Method. - Prepare the meat as in breast of

veal stuffed and roasted. Season the sausage

meat rather highly and spread it on the top.

Cut the hard-boiled eggs in pieces lengthwise

and the tongue or ham in strips, and place these

in rows on the top of the sausage meat. Two or

three truffles and a few pistachio nuts may also

be put in if wished. Roll and sew up the meat,

then tie it in a cloth very firmly and in the shape

of a bolster.

Put the bones from the veal into a saucepan

with stock or water to cover them and a few

pieces of flavouring vegetable. Bring this to

the boil, put in the roll of veal, and cook slowly

from two and a half to three hours.

When done, lift it out, and if, owing to the

shrinking of the meat, the cloth looks wrinkled,

take it off and re-roll it, and press till cold

between two boards or dishes with a three or

four poimd weight on the top.

When cold, take the galantine out of its cloth,

and trim the ends. Brush over the surface with

a little melted glaze, and apply two coatings if

necessary.

Serve garnished with aspic jelly or some nice

salad.

GAME AND POULTRY

To Roast a Fowl

{Fr. Poulet Rdti)

Have the fowl trussed for roasting, which

may be done either before the fire or in the

oven. In either case the breast of the fowl

should be covered over -with a piece of greased

paper or some slices of bacon, to prevent it from

taking too high a colour. Keep the fowl well

basted with butter, dripping, or bacon gra^'y.

The time will depend upon the age and size of

the fowl ; a chicken will take three-quarters of

an hour, a fowl from one to one and a half hours

to cook.

When the fowl is ready lift it on to a hot dish,

remove any trussing string or paper and pour

176

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

away any grease that may nin on the disli.

GamiBh with water-crees seasoned with lemon

juice and salt.

A nice gra\'y should always be served \\-ith the

fowl. Pour away the fat from the tin in which

it W£i8 roasted and add one cupful of stock or

water. Stir over the fire mitil boiling, rubbing

down any browning from the tin. Season nicely

and serve in a sauce-boat. Breewi sauce may also

be served with the fowl.

The best accompaniment to roast poultry is

a well-made salad, although many people still

prefer hot vegetables.

Not€. - Instead of the above sauce, chestnut

or muslu-oom sauce maj- be used.

It is no longer the fashion to stuff a fowl with

veal force-meat, but it may be filled with shelled

chestnuts before cooking.

To Steam a Fowl

First rub the fowl over with a piece of cut

lemon to keep it wliite, sprinkle it with salt

and wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper. Put

it into a double saucepan or steamer (see p. 148)

and cook from one and a half to two and a half

hours according to age and size.

When sufficiently tender lift it on to a hot

dish and remove the paper and string. Mask

it with parsley, oyster, bechamel, egg, or celery

sauce and garnish with little rolls of bacon or

hard-boiled egg. There should be sufficient

sauce to coat the fowl and to cover the flat part

of the dish.

Fricassee of Fowl

(Fr. Fricassee de Poulet)

Ingredients -

1 tender fowl.

Cold Water.

2 oz. Butter.

Pepper and .Salt

1 table-Bpoonful Flour.

1 pint ^^^lite Stock

1 glass White Wine.

A bunch of Herbs.

6 Button Onions.

3 or 4 Cloves.

2 yolks of Eggs.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

1 oz. Kresh Butter.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Method. - The colour of the fowl for this dish

should be very white, therefore it is sometimes

blanched before cooking it, although this cannot

be said to improve the flavour. Cut the fowl

into neat joints, remo^nng as much of the skin

as possible. Warm two ounces of butter in a

stewpan. Add the fowl, salt, and pepper.

Colour for a few minutes over the fire, but do

not let it take a deep tint. Add the flour, and

one pint of hot white stock. Stir until boiling

to prevent lumps ; add the herbs, onions, one of

them pierced vfiih cloves, and the wine. Put on

the lid, and simmer gently for one hour at least,

or until the fowl is tender. The sauce should

have reduced one -half. Then strain and return

sauce to saucepan. Add the yolks of eggs,

lemon juice, fresh butter, and parsley, but do

Ciicumber, Radishes,

Tomatoes.

Aspic Jelly.

not boil again. Serve garnished with crodtons

of fried bread.

Notes. - This may be cooked in an earthen-

ware pot and served en casserole.

Rice cooked in stock may be served separately.

Chaudfroid of Chicken

(Fr. Chaudfroid de Volaille)

Ingredients -

Cooked Chicken.

White Chaudfroid Sauce.

Mayonnaise Sauce.

Some Green Salad.

Decorations (see below).

Method. - Cut the chicken into neat joints,

removing as much of the skin as possible. Place

the joints on a draining tray or on a dish tvu-ned

upside down, and coat them all carefully with

white chaudfroid sauce (see p. 142). Give them

two coatings of the sauce if necessary. Then

decorate the joints lightly and tastefully. For

this may be used small fancy shapes of tongue

or truffle, finely chopped truffle or ham, tiny

sprigs of chervil, chopped parsley or yolk of

egg, fancy shapes of the red part of radishes,

tiny pieces of tomato, &c. Do not overload the

joints -with decoration, and use colours that will

blend well together. After decorating, run a

little aspic jelly over each joint, so as to give

them a glossy appearance, then let them set.

Slired some green salad, mix it with any re-

mains of decoration and a little chopped cliicken

(any trimmings will do for this), and moisten

with mayonnaise sauce. Pile this in the centre

of an entree dish, and arrange the joints of

chicken round it. Decorate with chopped aspio

jelly, more salad, and thin slices of radish or

cucumber.

Mayonnaise of Chicken

(Fr. Mayonnaise de Poulet)

Prepare in the same way as chaudfroid of

chicken, using mayonnaise sauce instead of

chaudfroid sauce.

Aspic Jelly

(Fr. Aspic)

Ingredients -

li pints Water or Meat

Stock.

1 pill Sherry.

1 gill assorted Vinegars.

2 oz. Sheet Gelatine.

Rind of 1 Lemon.

Juice of 2 Lemons.

A small piece of Carrot.

A small piece of Turnip.

1 stick of Celerj' or tea-sp.

Celery Seed.

Method. - Take a clean lined saucepan and

rinse it out with hot water. Put into it the

1 tea-spoonful Salt.

A sprig of Thyme.

A sprig of Marjoram.

A few Parsley Stalks.

2 or 3 Bay Leaves.

1 blade of Mace.

The whites and shells of

2 Eggs.

20 White Peppercorns.

6 Cloves.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

177

water or stock (which must be quite free from

grease) and the gelatine cut in small pieces.

If the stock is a jelly, less gelatine may be used.

Add the vegetables, prepared and cut in pieces,

the herbs tied together with fine string or thread,

and the smaller seasonings tied in a piece of

musUn. Add also the sherry, whites of eggs,

and the shells washed and crushed. To measure

the vinegars, take half a giU bro^vn malt vinegar,

nearly half a gill of Tarragon vinegar, and make

up the remainder with ChiU vinegar. Or less

brown vinegar may be used and some spiced

vinegar added. Add the vinegars to the other

ingredients, with the salt, lemon rind peeled off

very tliinly, and the juice strained. Whisk all

together over the fire until a good froth rises

and the jelly is almost boiling. Allow it to boil

up as high as it will without boiling over, then

draw the saucepan gently to one side of the fire,

when the jelly will keep warm without simmering,

and cover it with a lid or plate. Allow it to

stand for ten minutes, and then strain.

Any kind of cloth will do for straining the

jelly, as long as it is not too close in texture and

is kept for the purpose. Tie the cloth to a jolly-

stand, or to the four legs of a kitchen-chair turned

upside down, letting it sink in the middle so as

to form a bag. Have ready two basins and some

boiling water. Poiir the water through the

cloth into one of the basins, so as to heat it

thoroughly ; then put the dry basin underneath

and pour away the water. Remove the lid from

the pan, lift it carefully over without shaking it,

and pour all the contents into the cloth. The

jelly will not be clear the first time, as it is shaken

up in pouring through, s^ change the basin, and

pour what has run through back again into the

cloth. Repeat this several times, until the jelly

runs through perfectly clear. Cover the stand

over with a piece of flannel or blanket, and let

it remain until all the jelly has run through.

Chicken a la Cardinal

(Fr. Poulet a la Cardinal)

Ingredients-

1 Chicken.

Some White Stock.

1 gill Button Mushrooms.

J pint thick Tomato Sauce

(p. 145).

1 dozen Cherry Tomatoes.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Cut the cliicken into neat joints, and

put it into a stewpan with sufficient white stock

to cover it. Simmer gently from one to one and

a half hom-s until the chicken is quite tender.

Add the tomato sauce, which must bo very thick,

and cook a few minutes longer. Then lift out

the pieces of chicken, and arrange them neatly

on a hot dish. Reduce the sauce, if necessary,

until it is thick enough to coat the pieces of

chicken, and then strain it over the joints.

Garnish the dish with small cherry tomatoes

which have been cooked in the oven but not

broken, and button mushrooms saut6d in a

little butter.

Carried Fowl

(Fr. Poulet en Cari)

Ingredients -

1 tender FowL | 1 pint Stock.

IJ oz. Butter. 1 gill Cream.

1 Onion. Juice of J Lemon

1 tea-ap. Curry Powder Boiled Rice.

A pinch of Salt

Method. - Cut the fowl into neat joints, re-

moving as much of the skin as possible. Melt

the butter in an earthenwai'e stewpan, and

colour in it the onion, sliced or chopped. Add

the fowl, curry powder, and salt, and colour

gently over a moderate fire, turning the pieces

frequently. Then add the stock, and cook for

one hour at least, until the fowl is tender and the

liquid is reduced to one-third. Add the cream,

simmer a few minutes longer, and add the lemon

juice last. Serve en casserole and hand boiled

rice separately.

Boast Dock

(Fr. Caneton R6ti)

Fill the duck with apples peeled and cut in

quarters and a few French plums which have

been soaked and stoned. Roast in the same

way as a fowl. It will take from three-quarters

of an hour to one hour.

Serve with brown gravy and salad.

Note. - Sage and onion stuffing the same as

for roast goose may be used instead of the above.

Roast Goose

{Fr. Oie R6tie)

Roast in the same way as a fowl. The time

required will be from two to two and a half hours.

The following stuffing may be put inside : -

Sage and Onion Stuffing

i Spanish onions.

8 or 10 Sage Leaves.

lEgg.

J lb. Bread-crumbs.

Liver from the Goose.

Seasoning.

Parboil and chop the onions, add the bread-

crumbs, sage leaves finely powdered, and Uver

boiled and chopped. Mis all together, season

well, and add the egg slightly beaten.

Apple sauce and brown gravy should be

served separately.

Note. - The goose may be stuSed with apples

instead of the above stuffing. (See Roast Duck.)

Apple sauce would not then be required.

Partridge Braised with Cabbage

(Fr. Perdrix aux Choux)

Ingredients-

1 Partridge. 2 Small Cabbages.

Slices of Fat Bacon. 1 Carrot.

A bunch of Herbs. 1 Onion.

Seasoning. Gravy of Stock.

Method. - Wash and parboil the cabbages,

178

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

then drain them well and cut into quarters.

Place some shces of bacon over the breast of

the partridge and tie it up. Lay some more

bacon at the foot of a stewpan, the carrot and

onion cut in slices, and a bunch of herbs. Place

the bird on the top of this, and put the pieces of

cabbage round. Season well and add enough

stock or gra\'y to half cover the contents. Put

on the lid and stew slowly for at least one hour or

imtil the partridge is tender. Then lift it out,

cut it in quarters, and keep it warm. Strain the

cabbage and place it in the centre of a hot dish.

Arrange the joints of partridge on the top and

garnish \rith the carrot and pieces of bacon.

Remove the stock and pour it round the dish.

Note. - Small sUces of cooked sausage are

sometimes added to this dish.

Broiled Partridge

Butter.

Browned Bread-crumbs.

Potato Chips.

Some good Gravy.

Ingredients -

2ior more young Partridges.

Chopped Parsley.

Chopped Mushrooms.

Chopped Shallot.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Pick and clean the partridges,

cutting them in halves. Leave on the legs, but

cut off the toes. Press the legs well back

towards the wings, and inake the joint as much

in the shape of a cutlet as possible. Mix to-

gether some chopped parsley, mushrooms, and

shallot with pepper and salt, and sprinkle the

pieces of partridge with this mixture, and baste

them with warm butter. Then sprinkle them

with browned bread-crumbs, and broil over a

clear fire for fifteen minutes. Baste again wdth

warm butter, and serve very hot garnished with

potato chips. Serve good gravy or some thin

brown sauco separately.

Roast Turkey

{Fr. Dinde Rotie)

This can be cooked in the same way as roast

fowl. The time will depend upon the size of

the bird ; a small turkey will require one and a

half to two hours and a large- bird from two and

a half to three hours. A turkey is unually

stuffed before being roasted, and the following

makes a nice force-meat : -

Take one pound sausage meat (pork preferred)

and add to it six ounces cooked and sieved chest-

nuts and the liver of the tiu-kcy parboiled and

chopped. Season rather highly, and put this

into the crop of the turkey before trussing. The

above is sufficient for a medium-sized bird.

Brown gravy and bread sauce should bo

served with the turkey.

If the turkey is to be served cold, brush it

over with liquid glaze after roasting. A little

chopped aspic and some fresh salad may be used

to decorate it.

Ingredients -

Remains of Game.

I pint Gravy or Stock.

1 glass Port Wine.

2 or 3 Shallots.

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

Salmi ol Game

The Rind of 1 Orange.

The juice of * Lemon.

A pinch of Cayenne.

A sprig of Thyme.

Croutons of Fried Bread.

Method. - Cut the game into neat pieces, and

put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan.

Add the gravy or stock to the bones in the pan,

also the shallots, orange rind peeled very thinly,

and thyme. Simmer this for at least half-an-

hour, and then strain. Melt the butter in a

saucepan, and when it is slightly brown stir in

the flour, add the strained stock, and stir again

vmtil boiling. Add the wine, lemon juice, and

seasoning to taste. Warm the pieces of game

thoroughly in this, and skim wcU. Serve

garnished with some pretty croutons of fried

bread.

Stewed Rabbit with Brown Sauce

Ingredients -

1 Rabbit.

2 oz. Ham.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

1 oz. Flour.

2 Onions.

1 pint Stock or Water.

i table-spoonful Ketchup.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Clean and wash the rabbit well.

Dry and cut it into neat joints. Melt the drip-

ping or butter in a saucepan. Coat the pieces of

rabbit with flom*, and brown them in the fat.

Then add the ham cut in small pieces and the

onioias in sUces, sprinkle with pepper and salt,

pvit the lid on the pan, and cook slowly for ten

minutes. Then add the stock and ketchup,

mix well and cover again with the lid. Allow

the stew to simmer slowly from ono and a half to

two hours, or until the rabbit is quite tender.

Remove any grease before serving, and dish

very neatly on a hot dish.

Stewed Rabbit with Onion Sauce

Ingredients -

1 Rabbit. li oz. Butter,"

3 Spanish Onions.

2 oz. Ham.

Seasoning.

1 oz. Flour.

A small bunch of Herbs.

Croutons of Fried Bread.

Method. - Prepare the rabbit as in last recipe

and put it into a saucepan v^'ith cold water to

cover it. Bring to the boil, pour the water away,

and rinso both rabbit and saucepan. This is

to whiten the rabbit. Cover again with warm

water or white stock, add the seasoning, herbs,

ham cut in small pieces, and onions scalded and

cut in quarters. Put the lid on the pan and

cook slowly for one and a half hours or longer

if necessary. Strain and keep the gravy and

ham. Place the pieces of rabbit on a dish and

keep them warm. Make a sauce with the

butter, flour, and gravy from rabbit. Add the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

179

onions finely chopped, season nicely, and pour

this over the rabbit. Decorate with small

croutons of fried bread.

Jugged Hare

(Fr. Civet de Lievre)

Ingredients -

1 Hare.

Jib. fat Bacon.

1 Onion stuck with 6 Cloves

Bunch of Sweet Herbs.

2 glasses of Port Wine.

1 inch Stick Cinnamon.

2 Bay Leaves.

Juice of J Lemon.

1 dessert-sp. Arrowroot.

1 pint good Stock or Gravy.

1 table-spoonful Red-Cur-

rant Jelly.

Pepper and Salt.

Force-meat Balls.

Method. - Cut the hare into neat pieces, not

larger than the size of an egg, and wipe the

pieces with a cloth. Cut the bacon into small

pieces, and put it into a saucepan. Fry it for

a few minutes, and then add the hare, onion,

herbs, pepper, salt, cinnamon, and bay leaves.

Put the lid on the saucepan, and cook slowly

for twenty minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.

Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the stock, and

add to it the hare with the lemon juice and one

glass of port wine. Stir over the fire imtil

boiling, and then turn the contents of the sauce-

pan into a strong jar. Cover the jar closely,

and cook in a moderate oven from three to four

hoiu-s. It is safer to place the jar in a shallow

tin, and to keep a little boiling water round it.

The time will depend very much upon the kind

of hare used, but the cooking must be continued

until the meat is quite tender. A few minutes

before serving, add the other glass of port wine

and the red-currant j^Uy. Dish the pieces of

hare neatly, and strain the gravy over. Garnish

with force-meat balls (see below).

A pinch of Cayenne.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

2 oz. Butter or chopped

Suet.

1 whole Egg or 2 yolks.

Force-meat Balls

Ingredients -

3 oz. Bread-crumbs.

The grated rind of J Lemon.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 tea-sp. Thyme and Jlar-

joram.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - If the Hver from the hare is good,

it may be added to above ingredients. Cook

it until it is firm, and then grate or chop it

finely. Put it into a basin with all the dry in-

gredients and season nicely. Rub in the butter,

and then bind into a paste with the egg. Form

this mixture into small balls and flour them well.

Fry them in boiling fat until a nice brown colour.

RECHAUFFES OP MEAT

Cold Meat Shape

Ingredients -

i lb. cooked Meat

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley

1 hard-boiled Egg.

ipint light Stock.

} oz. sheet Gelatine.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Tlie meat used for this must be very

tender, as it gets no further cooking. A mixture

J oz. Butter.

A little Stock.

Seasoning.

Browned Bread-crumbs.

of meats such as veal and ham, mutton and

tongue, &c., is best. Trim away all skin and

gristle, and cut the meat in small neat pieces.

Chop the parsley very finely, and cut the hard-

boiled egg in slices. Then rinse out a mould

with cold water, and decorate it at the foot with

some of the egg and parsley. Place in very

lightly a little of the meat with seasoning and

more egg, then more meat, &c., and so on until

all is in. Do not press it down. Dissolve the

gelatine in the stock, and strain it over the meat.

Set aside in a cool place until cold and firm.

When wanted, turn out and garnish with parsley

or salad.

Darioles of Beef

Ingredients -

6 oz. cooked Beef.

2 oz. cooked Potatoes.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

lEgg.

J oz. Bread-crumbs.

Method. - Grease half-a-dozen dariol moulds

or small basins and coat the sides with fine

browned bread-crumbs. Melt the half -ounce of

butter in a small saucepan, add the meat finely

chopped, the potato sieved, and enough stock

to moisten. Mix well, season rather highly

and according to taste, and the egg slightly

beaten. Fill the prepared moulds with this

mixture, sprinkle a few more browned crumbs

on the top and bake in a moderate oven from

fifteen to twenty minutes. Turn out the

darioles on a hot dish and pom* some brown

gravy or thin tomato sauce round.

Note. - Any kind of meat may be used, and

a little ham or tongue used along with the other

meat is always an improvement.

The mixture must not be made too wet or

the darioles will not keep their shape.

Glazed Beef Roll

Ingredients -

J lb. cold Roast Beef.

2 or 3 oz. cooked Ham or

Tongue.

1 dessert-spoonful Ketchup.

A little Stock.

lEgg.

4 oz. Bread-crumbs.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 des.-sp. chopped Pickles.

J tea-sp. Mixed Spice.

Pepper and Salt.

Some Meat Glaze.

Method. - INIince the beef and ham finely,

being careful to remove all skin and gristle.

Put them into a basin, and add the bread-

crumbs, pickles, parsley, spice, pepper, and salt.

Mix well, and bind with the egg well beaten,

the ketchup, and, if necessary, a little stock or

gravy.

Form into a roll, and tie into a pudding cloth

like a roly-poly. Boil this roU in the stock-pot

for half-an-hour, then lift out and press between

two dishes with a weight on the top until cold.

Remove the cloth and brush over with a little

melted glaze. Serve cold garnished with parsley

or salad.

180

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Note. - ^This roll may aJso be made \vith fresh

uncooked meat. It will then require longer time

for cooking, from one and a half to two hours.

Meat Scallops

(Fr. Coquilles do Viande au Gratin)

Ingredients -

\ lb. cooked Beef or ^■eal. i 2 table-spoonfuls browned

1 gill Brown Sauce. Bread-ci-unibs.

1 table-spooDful Sherrj'. I 1 table-sp. grated Cheese.

1 oz. Butter.

Method. - Cut the remains of beef or veal into

small squares, and heat them in the above

proportion of good brown sauce. Season highly,

and add the sherry. Grease six or seven china

shells, and fill them with the mixture, piling it

higher in the centre than at the sides. Sprinkle

over them some browned bread-crumbs and

grated cheese, and place a small piece of butter

on the top. Place them in a hot oven about

ten minutes. Garnish each with a sprig of

parsley and a small shce of lemon.

Potted Chicken or Game

Ingredients -

1 lb. cooked Chicken or I 2 oz. Butter.

Game. | Pepper and Salt.

2 OS. cooked Ham orTongue. I A pinch of Nutmeg.

A little powdered Mace. I

Method. - Take all the meat from the remains

of cold fowl or game, remove all skin and gristle,

and allow butter and ham or tongue in the above

proportion.

Put the meat twice through a mincing machine

and then pound it in a mortar with most of the

butter (previously melted) and season to taste.

Rub the mixture through a fine wire sieve, pack

into little pots, and ran the remainder of the

butter over the top.

Note. - Almost any meat can be potted in the

same way. Two different meats used together

are always tastier than one, and a little ham or

other salted meat is alwaj's an improvement.

If the ham is very fat, some of the butter may be

omitted.

The above seasonings are very simple, and

different condiments may be added to suit

individual taste.

Chicken and Spaghetti

Ingredients -

0 oz. cooked Chicken.

) pint \V'hite Sauce.

2 or 3 oz. cooked Ham.

A little grated Lemon liind.

1 o. ButUr.

i lb. Spaghetti.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

A few Bread-crumbs.

Method. - Chop the chicken and ham finely,

removing all skin and gristle. Cook the spa-

ghetti in boiling water and salt for half-an-hour

or until quito soft, then drain and cut in small

pieces. Make a sauce with one ounce of flour,

one ounce butter, and half a pint milk or chicken

stock, and season with white pepper and salt.

Mix the cliicken and ham in a basin with the

sauce, adding the nutmeg, lemon, and parsley.

Then grease a pie-dish, and put into it alternate

layers of the chicken mixture and the spaghetti.

Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs, put the

butter on in small pieces, and bake in a moderate

oven from twenty to thirty minutes.

Rissoles

Ingredients -

i lb. cold cooked Meat

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

1 gill of Stock.

1 tea-sp. chopped Onion.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley,

A pinch of Nutmeg.

Pepper and Salt.

A little Flour.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

Method - ^Remove all skin and gristle from the

meat, chop it very finely and then weigh it.

Molt the butter in a small saucepan, add the

onion, and cook for a few minutes over the fire.

Then add the flour, and stir until slightly

browned. Pour in the stock, and stir until the

mixture begins to draw away from the sides of

the saucepan. Add the meat and the seasonings

and mix well together. Turn the mixture on to

a plate, smooth it over with a knife, and set

aside to cool. When cold, it will be firm and

easUy shaped. Portion it out into about twelve

equal-sized pieces. Take the pieces one at a

time, and shape them on a board with the aid of

a knife and a little flour. They may be made

into any shape that is liked, such aa cutlet

shapes, balls, small rolls, round cakes, or cone

shapes. The dish will look neater if only ono

or two shapes are used. Use as little flour as

possible in the shaping, just sufficient to keep

the mixture from sticking to the board. Then

egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling

fat until they are a nice brown colour. Drain

well, and serve hot with a dish-paper under them.

Garnish with parsley.

Note. - Any kind of meat may be used for

making rissoles or a mixture of meats. A little

ham or tongue used along with fresh meat is a

great improvement.

Scrambled Mutton and Tomatoes

Ingredients -

1 tca-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 or 2 slices of Toast

Pepper and Salt.

\ lb. cold Mutton.

2 Eggs.

1 cupful Tomato purie.

1 oz. Butter or Dripping.

Method. - Remove all skin and gristle from

the mutton, then weigh it and mince it finely.

Either fresh or tinned tomatoes may be used ;

rub tliem through a hair or wire sieve in order

to get a pur6e. Molt the butter or dripping

in a saucepan, add the pur6e, meat, eggs well

beaten, pepper and salt. Mix quickly over the

fire until thoroughly hot and thick, and taste

to see if sufficiently seewoned. Serve on neat

GUIDE TO COOKERY

181

pieces of toast or fried breswi, and sprinkle each

with a little very finely chopped parsley. Send

to table very hot.

MEAT DISHES WITH PASTRY

Beef Steak and Kidney Pie

{Fr. Pat6 de Bifteck et Rognons)

Ingredients -

Pepper and Salt.

i table-sp. Stock or Water.

J tea-sp. Jamaica Pepper.

Flaky, Rough-Puff or Drip-

ping Pastry.

1 lb. Beef (cut thin).

2 Sheep's Kidneys.

1 hard-boiled Egg.

1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.

1 dessert-spoonful Flour.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Method. - Wipe the meat with a damp cloth

and trim away all skin and any superfluous fat.

Cut it into narrow strips suitable for rolling up.

Split the kidneys, removing the skin and inside

fat, and cut them into sm.all pieces. Mix the

flour, salt and pepper together in a plate.

(The usual proportions of seasoning to allow are

one tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful

of pepper to each pound of meat, but this must

vsu'y according to taste. The flour is used to

thicken the gravy, and this should be omitted

in a pie which is to be served cold.) Dip the

pieces of meat and kidney into this mixture,

coating them well. Roll up the strips of steak

with some of the kidney and a small piece of

fat inside each. Place these rolls loosely in a

pie-dish, heaping them rather high in the middle

of the dish to support the crust, and sprinkling

them with the chopped parsley. Remove the

shell from the hard-bo'led egg, and cut it into

six or eight pieces. Arrange these pieces round

the meat and poxir in the ketchup and half the

stock.

Notes. - The best steak should be used for

pies, any other is likely to be tough. It is not a

good plan to partly stew the meat beforehand,

the pie will not have such a good flavour. The

addition of a little potato and onion, partly

cooked and thinly sUced, is considered by some

people an improvement. The egg might then

be omitted.

To Cover the Pie. - For a plain pie, to be eaten

hot, dripping crust (p. 164) does very well ; but

for a superior pie, either rough-puff or flaky

pastry is more suitable. The quantity made

with half a pound of floui' will be about the

requisite ajnount for the above proportion of

meat.

Roll out the pastry into an oblong shape and

from one-quarter to three-eighthsof an inchthick.

From tlais cut a strip about one and a half inches

in width or rather wider than the rim of the

pie-dish. Then wet the rim of the dish with

cold water, and lay this"^ neatly on. Where a

join is made wet one of the edges to make them

stick. Do not overlap the pieces or one part of

the edge will be thicker than the other. Wet

this strip of pastry with cold water and lay on

the larger piece of pastry to cover the top of the

pie. Press this piece of pastry well on, easing

it in shghtly and not dragging it over the dish.

With a sharp knife cut off the larger pieces of

pastry hanging round the dish, then hold the

dish up in the left hand and with the right trim

neatly round the edges. When trimming take

short quick strokes, always cutting away from

you, inclining the knife in such a way that the

edges of the crust will have a considerable out-

ward slope. Then flour the fii-st finger of the

left hand and keep pressing the back of it down

on the rim of the pastry, while with the back of

a floured knife you tap the edges smartly all

round, making them look Uke the leaves of a

book. To scallop them, draw the back of the

knife sharply across them at intervals of about

half an inch, drawing the knife upwards and

inwards, while with the thiunb of the left hand

you keep pressing the pastry just in front of the

knife downwards and outwards. Make a hole

in the centre of the pie with a knife and briash

over with beaten egg, omitting the edges. Roll

out the trimmings of the pastry and cut out

leaves for decorating. To do this in a simple

way, cut the pastry into strips about one and a

half inches wide. Then divide these obliquely

into diamond-shaped pieces. Mark each with

the back of a knife to imitate the veins of a

leaf. From seven to nine of these leaves will

be required for a centre ornament. Radiate

the leaves from the hole in the centre of the

pie, towards the edges of the dish, brush them

over with beaten egg and the pie is ready to

bake. Place it on a baking-tin and put it in a

hot oven for the first half -hour or until the crust

is risen and set and of a brown colour. Then

move it to a cooler part, so that the meat may

cook more slowly. As soon as the crust is dark

enough, it should be kept covered with a double

piece of paper until the pie is cooked. The time

required will be from one to one and a half hoiu-s

or longer if the meat seems tough or the pie is

a large one. It may be tested by running in a

skewer through the hole in the top. As soon

as the pie is done remove it from the oven.

Wipe the dish with a wet cloth and garnish with

parsley before serving.

Note. - A few chopped mvislirooms or an oyster

may be rolled up inside the meat instead of the

kidney. A little finely chopped shallot may bo

added if desired.

Beef Steak and Kidney Pudding

Ingredients -

1 lb. Beef (cut thin).

2 Sheep's Kidneys.

1 dessert -spoonful Flour.

Pepper and Salt

3 table-sp. Stock or Water.

1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.

Method. - Prepare the meat according to

directions given in previous recipe. Take a

pint basin and line it with suet crust according

to directions given on p. 164. Fill up with the

182

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

prepared meat and poiir in the keteliup and

stock. The contents should be rather heaped

in the middle, as they slirink in cooking. Roll

out the trimmings of pastry into a round shape

to form a cover. Double down the edge of the

pastry which lines the basin over the meat and

wot it with cold water. Place the round piece

on the top and press the edges well together.

Cover with a scalded and floured pudding cloth.

Plunge the pudding into a basin of f£ist-boiling

water and boil quickly for at least two and a half

hours or steam for tliree hours. When ready,

lift out and let it stand for a minute or two.

Tlien remove the cloth and turn the pudding

carefully out on to a hot dish. Make a slit in

the pastry at the side to let the gravy run over

the dish.

Note. - Larger puddings may be served in

the bsisin in which they are made. Heat a table-

napkin, fold it neatly and pin it round the basin.

Chopped muslirooms or onions may be used for

flavouring. The pudding may be baked instead

of boiled.

Chicken and Ham Pie (Cold)

{Fr. Pate Froid de Volaille)

Ingredients -

1 tender Chicken.

2 Hard-boiled Eggs.

2 oz. Earn or Bacon.

A pinch of gi-ound Mace.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

A little grated Lemon Rind

and Lemon Juice.

Pepper and Salt.

Some Jelly Stock.

Rough- Puff or Flaky Pastry.

Method. - Cut the chicken into neat pieces

free from bone and with as little skin as possible.

Season it with pepper, salt, and parsley, and add

the ham cut in small pieces. Take a pie-dish

just large enough to hold the meat, rinse it out

with cold water and leave it wet. Then decorate

the foot with sections of hard-boiled egg and

chopped parsley. Fill up with the chicken and

ham, &c., and press the meat well down, making

it level with the top of the dish. Pour in half

a gill of white stock, or just enough to moisten

the meat. Cover the pie according to directions

given on p. 181, but put on no decorations.

Bake in the oven from one to one and a half

hours, or until the chicken feels tender when it

is tested with a skewer. When roa the pie from the oven and pour in as much

stock (that will jelly when cold) as the pie will

hold. If the stock is not stiff enough a little

gelatine must first be dissolved in it. Tlien set

the pie away until it is quite cold. To serve -

remove the pastry frf)m the top and place it

upside down on a clean dish, and turn the moat

par^ carefully out on the top of this. If it

is inclined to stick, dip the dish into hot water

for a moment, and then loosen round the edges.

Garnish round the sides of the pie with some

nice salad and servo cold.

Note. - This makes a nice supper or luncheon

dish.

IngredicrUs-

2 Pigeons.

I lb. best Steak.

1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.

1 gill of Stock.

1 hard-boiled Egg.

Pigeon Pie

(Fr. Pat6 de Pigeons)

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

1 oz. Butter.

1 dessert-spoonful Flour.

Pepper and Salt.

Rout,h-Pufr or Flaky I'astry

Method. - Draw and singe the pigeons, then

cut them in quarters and wipe or wash the

pieces. Reserve the feet for decorating the

pie. Remove as much of the skin from the

joints as possible, and trim away any parts

which do not look eatable. Wipe the beef with

a damp cloth, trim off the skin, and cut it into

small neat pieces. Put the flour on a plate and

clip the pieces of pigeon and beef into it, coating

them well. Molt the butter or dripping in a

frying-pan ; when sinoking hot put in the beef

and pigeons and fry them until nicely browned.

Lift out and arrange in a pie-dish, sprinkling

with pepper, salt, and the chopped parsley.

Pile the meat liigh in the centre and put the

egg cut in small pieces round the sides. Pour

in the ketchup and half the stock and cover the

pie according to directions given for beef-steak

and kidney pie (p. 181). Brush the pie over

with beaten egg and place it on a baking-tin.

Bake in a good oven for two hours or until the

contents feel tender when tested with a skewer.

When ready, lift from the oven and pour in the

rest of the stock through the hole in the top by

means of a filler. Wipe the dish with a damp

cloth. Scald the pigeon feet in some boiling

water and scrape off the outside skin. Stand

these up in the hole at the top of the pie and

garnish with some sprigs of parsley.

A^ote. - Be particular to choose very tender

pigeons for making pies. A little bacon is

sometimes put in to give flavoiu". Partridge

pie can be made in the same way.

Roman Pio

Ingredients -

6 oz. cooked Aleat.

3 oz. cooked Macaroni.

3 oz. grated Cheese.

1 gill Stock or Cream.

1 parboiled Onion.

1 tea-sp. made Mustard.

Pepper and Salt.

1 table-spoonful crushed

Vermicelli.

1 gill Brown or Tomato

Sauce.

Dripping Crust.

Method. - White moat, such as rabbit, mutton,

chicken, or veal is the best to use for this pie.

Remove from it all sldn, bone, and gristle and

chop it finely. Put it into a basin with the

macaroni, cut in small pieces, and add the onion

finely chopped and grated cheese. Season with

pepper, salt, and mustard, pour in the cream or

stock and mix well together.

To Make the Pie. - Take a pint basin and grease

it with butter or dripping. Put in the crushed

vermicelli and coat the sides of the basin with

GUIDE TO COOKERY

183

this. Line the basin with some dripping crust

rolled out thinly. Fill up with the meat mixture

and put a cover of pastry on the top. Make a

small hole in the top of the pie and place it on a

baking-sheet. Bake in a good oven for one hour.

When ready, remove from the oven and turn out

on a hot dish. Heat some brown or tomato

sauce and pour it round.

Note. - Bread-crumbs may be used instead

of vermicelli. The onion may be omitted.

Sweetbread Patties

(Ft, Petits Pites de Ris de Veau)

Ingredients -

3 oz. cooked Sweetbread.

1 oz. cooked Ham or Tongue.

1 table-spoonful good White

Sauce.

A little grated Lemon Kind.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

2 table-spoonfuls Cream.

Pepper and Salt.

Rough-Puff or Puff Pastry.

Method. - To Make the Mixture. - Chop the

sweetbi-ead and ham or tongue very finely. Put

them into a small saucepan with the sauce and

stir over the fire until well mixed. Season to

taste with pepper, salt, grated lemon rind,

lemon juice, and a pinch of nutmeg. Pour in

the cream and make the mixture thoroughly hot

before using.

To Make the Patties. - Make the patty cases

according to direction given on p. 165, first or

second method, and when baked fill them with

the mixture. Put on the lids of pastry, and

garnish with sprigs of parsley. Serve on a hot

dish with a d'oyley or dish -paper under them.

Note. - Chicken and ham patties may be made

in the same way, and tongue may be used

instead of ham. The cream may be omitted

and white stock added to make the mixtui'e

sufficiently moist.

Chicken and Ham Croquettes

{Fr. Croquettes de Volaille)

Ingredients -

3 oz. cooked Chicken.

1 oz. cooked Ham.

1 table-spoonful thick good

White Sauce.

Itea-spoonful finely chopped

Parsley.

Scraps of Pastry.

A little grated Lemon Bind.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

1 Truffle chopped.

Pepper and Salt

Egg and Bread-crumbs or

Vermicelli.

Frying Fat.

Method. - First prepare the mixture to put

inside the pastry. Remove all skin and gristle

from the meat, and then weigh it. Chop it

very finely with a knife or put it through a

mincing machine. Then mix in a saucepan

with the white sauce, wliich ought to be fairly

thick, and add the seasoning. Turn the mixtiire

on to a plate to cool.

To Make the Croquettes. - ^Roll out some scraps

of pastry very thinly. The thinness of the

pastry is very important. If left too thick it

will not be properly cooked, and will be most

unwholesome and unpleasant. Stamp the pastry

out into roimds with a plain or fluted cutter

three to four inches in diameter, and with a

small brush wet round the edges with a little

water or beaten egg. Put a small portion of the

mixture into the centre of each piece of pastry,

and double over, pressing the edges well together.

Any other suitable shape may be used instead of

rounds if preferred. Next egg and bread-crmnb

the croquettes, or, instead of bread-cnmibs,

use crushed vermicelli. Fry them a nice brown

colour, but not too quickly, in boihng fat, and

drain well on kitchen-paper. Pile them on a

hot dish with a d'oyley or dish-paper under

them, and garnish with parsley.

Note. - Cooked game, sweetbread or tender

veal may be used instead of the chicken.

These can be baked instead of fried.

EGG AND CHEESE DISHES, SANDWICHES, ETC.

Ingredients-

Eggs in Bread Sauce

i pint Bread Sauce.

2 table-sp. grated Cheese.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Heat the bread sauce and povir it

into a fii-e-proof dish. Slip into it the foiar eggs

without breaking them, sprinkle the grated

cheese over the top, and bake In the oven about

ten minutes. Allow time to cook the eggs and

to brown the cheese.

Note. - The cheese may be omitted and

browned bread-crumbs used in its place.

Eggs a la Cliartres

{Fr. CEufs a la Chartres)

Ingredients-

5 Eggs.

5 round cro 5 rounds of Tongue or Ham-

White Pepper.

2 oz. Butter.

3 or 4 table-spoonfuls Stock.

1 tea-spoonful Meat Glaze.

Salt

Method. - Cut the rounds of bread about three

and a half inches in diameter, and the rounds

of ham or tongue of the same size. Take an

egg-poacher (this is necessary in order to keep

the eggs a good shape), and first pour a little of

184

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the butter (melted) into the cups, then break

the eggs carefully and drop them in ; the yolks

must on no account be broken. Sprinkle lightly

with white pepper and salt. Put the poacher

in hot water, and cook the eggs for four minutes,

or until set without being hard. Meanwliile fry

the croutons a nice brown colour in the rest

of the butter, and warm the slices of tongue

or ham in the stock. Place the croutons on a

hot dish, the shcos of tongue or ham on the

top, and then the eggs. Melt the glaze in the

stock and pour it round.

Eggs en Cocottes

(Fr. CEufs en Cocottes)

Ingredients -

Eggs.

Butter.

A little Cream.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Butter as many small fire-proof

dishes as you wish. Break an egg into each,

sprinkle with pepper and salt, and pour one

tea-spoonful of cream over each egg. Stand the

cases in a tin with enough hot water to come

half-way up the sides, and cook in the oven

about seven minutes, or until the eggs are set.

Note. - ^This dish may be varied very much

by putting one teaspoonful of chopped ham,

tongue, mushroom, &c., at the foot of the Utile

case, then the egg with the cream on the top.

Or grated cheese may be sprinkled both above

and below the egg, and this makes a nice dinner

savoury.

Eggs with Green Peas

Ingredients -

4 Eggs.

i pint cooked Oreen Peas.

1 gill ligbt Sauce.

2 table-sp. Milk or Cream.

A pinch of Sugar.

Sippets of Toast or Fried

Bread.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Heat a little light-coloxired sauce

and add the peas and seasoning. Cook for a

few minutes, and add the milk or cream at the

last. Turn the peas with their sauce on to a

hot dish, and place on the surface four nicely

poached eggs. Garnish with sippets of toast

or fried bread.

Eggs a la Maitre d' Hotel

(Fr. CEufs h. la Maitre d'Hotel)

Ingredients -

0 Eggi.

Maitre d'H6tel Butter.

6 pieces

Toast.

of hot buttered

Method. - Arrange the eggs, nicely poached,

on the top of the pieces of toast. Put a pat of

maitre d'hotel butter about the siz^ of a shilling

on the top of each egg, and send them to table

while the butter is just melting. (For Maitre

d'Hfitel Butter, see p. 144.)

Ingredients-

4 Eggs.

4 rounds of hot buttered

Toast

J lb. cooked Chicken or

Veal.

Eggs a la Reine

{Fr. CEufs a la Reine)

A little chopped Parsley.

2 oz. cooked Ham or Tongue.

2 table-sp. light Sauce or

Ora^-y.

Seasoning.

Method. - Mince the meat and ham or tongue

very finely, and heat it in a small saucepan with

the sauce to moisten it. Season to taste, and

spread this neatly on the rounds of hot buttered

toast. Place a poached egg on the top of each,

and sprinkle with a little finely chopped parsley.

Serve at once and very hot.

Eggs with Shrimp Sauce

Ingredients -

1 cupful White Sauce.

6 rounds of hot buttered

Toast.

Fresh or potted Shrimps.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Heat the sauce in a small saucepan

and add enough potted or shelled fresh shrimps

to thicken the sauce well. Poach the eggs, and

lay them on six rounds or squares of hot buttered

toast. Season the sauce with pepper and salt,

and pour it over the eggs. Serve very hot.

Eggs sur le Plat

(Fr. CEufs sur le Plat)

Ingredients -

3 Eggs.

I 1 oz. Butter.

Salt and Pepper.

Method. - Lightly butter a flat fire-proof dish,

and break the eggs into it without breaking

the yolks. Season with pepper and salt, and

put the rest of the butter in small pieces on the

top. Set the dish in a moderate oven, and let

it remain until the whites become set, but by

no means hard. They will require about ten

minutes. Serve hot.

Note. - A httlo cream may be poured over the

eggs before putting them in the oven.

Eggs with Tomatoes

Ingredients-

2 Tomatoes.

1 oz. Butter.

1 tea-sp. chopped Onion.

1 oz. Ham (chopped).

2 Eggs.

1 or 2 slices of Toast

Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Put the tomatoes into boiling

water for a minute, lift them out, dry and peel

them ; then cut them in small pieces. Melt the

butter in a small saucepan, add the tomatoes,

onion, and ham, cook for about ten minutes,

and season to taste. Remove the pan from

the fire, and add the eggs well beaten. Stir

again over the fire until the mixture becomes

thick, but on no account must it be haxd. Cut

GUIDE TO COOKERY

185

the toast into neat fingers or fancy -shaped pieces,

put a Uttle of the mistxire on each, garnish with

parsley, and serve very hot.

Eggs Stuffed with Sardines

Ingredients -

6 hard-boiled Eggs.

2 oz. Butter.

2 or 3 drops Vinegar.

1 dessert-sp. Sardine Paste.

Cayenne Pepper.

Salad and Small Biscuits.

Method. - Cut the eggs in halves across, re-

move the yolks, and cut a small piece off the

white so that the pieces stand Uke httle cups.

Put the yolks into a mortar or strong basin

with the butter, sardine paste, and seasoning,

pound well and then rub through a sieve. Spread

the biscuits with some of the mixture, and fill

up the egg-cups with the remainder, piling it

high in the centre. Serve very cold, garnish

with cress or other small salad.

Note. - This dish will look better if the mix-

ture is put into a forcing bag and forced into

the eggs ; a little being used to garnish round

the sides of the biscviits.

There are many varieties of this dish, as any

savoury paste may be used instead of sardine

flavouring. The decoration may also be varied -

small pieces of pickle, ham, beetroot, or truffle

cut in fancy shapes will help to give a Httle

colour, while chopped aspic instead of the Uttle

biscuits may serve as a bed upon which to dish

the eggs.

Poached Eggs with CSieese

(Fr. CEufs poch^s au Fromage)

Ingredients -

4 or 5 Eggs.

1 gill White Sauce.

3 table-sp. grated Cheese.

3 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

Pepper and Salt

A little Butter.

Method. - Butter a flat dish, and sprinkle it

with half the bread-crumbs and cheese. Poach

the eggs, and place them on the top. Then

pour over the sauce, and put the rest of the

cheese and bread-crumbs on the top. Lay on

a few small pieces of butter, and place in a hot

oven to melt the cheese and lightly brown

the top.

Savoury Egg Cutlets

Ingredients -

3 hard-boiled Eggs.

\ oz. Butter.

J oz. Flour.

i gill MilK.

2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

i tea-sp. Anchovy or Shrimp

Essence.

6 or 8 Button Mushrooms.

Egg and Bread-crumbs.

A little Flour.

Seasoning.

Method. - Boil the eggs very hard ; let them

lie in cold water for a few minutes, then remove

the shells and chop them rather finely. Melt

the butter in a small saucepan, add the flovu-,

and mix until smooth. Tiien draw the saucepan

to one side, add the milk, and cook again over

the fire, stirring all the time until smooth and

thick. Add now the chopped eggs, the mush-

rooms finely chopped, the bread-crumbs, and

seasoning. Mix well together, and spread the

naixture on to a plate to cool. Finish in the

same way as lobster cutlets (p. 137).

Scrambled Eggs

{Fr. (Eufs Brouill6s)

IngredierUa-

4 Eggs.

1 table-sp. Milk or Cream.

1 table-sp. Stock or Gravy.

1 oz. Butter.

Seasoning.

1 slice hot buttered Toast.

Method. - Melt the butter in an enamelled or

earthenware saucepan - add the eggs sHghtly

beaten and the milk and stock, and season to

taste. Stir over a moderate fire until the eggs

begin to set and the mixture is of a nice creamy

consistency. It m\ist not be overcooked or the

eggs will be tough. Place the toast on a hot

dish, cut it in three or foiir pieces, and pour the

scrambled eggs over. Garnish with small sprigs

of parsley.

Note. - This dish may be varied by adding

different ingredients to the eggs, &c., thus : -

With Ham. - Fry one or two ovmces of chopped

lean ham in the butter before adding the other

ingredients. Tongue can be used in the same

way.

With Peas or Asparagus Points. - Add two

or three table -spoonfuls cooked gi'een peas or

asparagus points to the eggs before they begin

to thicken.

With Anchovies. - Add one tea-spoonful an-

chovy essence to the mixture, and serve gar-

nished with fine strips of anchovy which have

been warmed on a plate over hot water.

Ingredients-

1 oz. Butter.

Plain Omelet

(Fr. Omelette Naturel)

I Flavouring

I taste.

Pepper and Salt.

according to

Method. - An omelet is the most difficult to

prepare of any egg-dish. It reqmres some prac-

tice to give it the right shape, to have it soft

inside and to give it a smooth slightly browned

surface. The first essential is to have a perfectly

clean and smooth pan - and one which is kept

for this special purpose.

Beat the eggs just enough to break them, and

at the last moment, or they will become watery.

The rule is twelve beats. Add pepper, salt,

and minced onion, parsley, herbs, muslirooms,

or whatever fancy may dictate. A dessert-

spoonful of milk or cream may be used or not.

Have the pan evenly heated, but not scorching.

Put in the butter, and let it run evenly over the

186

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

pan, but not brown, and then add the eggs, &c.

With a fork break the cooked sm'faco in several

places quickly, so that the egg from the top

may run to the bottom and cook, or loosen

the omelet from the sides of the pan, letting

the uncooked ptirt run under. Tliis must be

done in the beginning, so as not to make the

surface uneven. Wlien the egg is cooked, but

yet quite soft on the top, lift the pan on one

side, slip a knife-blade under one half of the

omelet, and carefully roll the egg to the centre.

Let it cook a moment to set any egg that has run

out. Place a hot dish over the pan and turn

them together so that the omelet will fall in the

right place. The outside of the omelet should

be firm and lightly browned, the inside soft and

creamy. Garnish with parsley, and serve at

once. Have everything ready before beginning

to cook an omelet, as it will not improve being

kept while the dish is heated and the garnishing

found.

Note. - The size of the pan must always be

considered. Unless it is proportioned to the

number of eggs, it will be unmanageably thick

or thin.

More eggs may be used if a larger omelet is

required, but never more than eight.

Savoury Omelet

{Fr. Omelette aux Fines Herbes)

Ingredients -

1 tea-ap. chopped Parsley.

i tea-sp. mixed Herbs.

2 Eggs.

i tea-spoonful choppedOnioii

or Shallot.

1 oz. Butter.

Pepper and Salt

Method. - Separate the yolks from the whites

of the eggs. Put the yolks into a medium-sized

basin and the whites on to a plate. Add to the

yolks the parsley, onion, herbs, pepper, and salt,

and work these well together with a wooden

spoon until of a creamy consistency. Beat up

the whites of the eggs with a broad-bladed knife

until so stiff that you could turn the plate upside

down without the whites falling off. Remove

the wooden spoon from the basin, and ^^dth an

iron one stir the whites lightly into the other

mixture. Melt the butter in an omelet pan,

and pour the mixture into it, scraping out the

basin as quickly as possible. Stir the mixture

round with an iron spoon until it begins to set,

stirring mostly on the surface, and not scraping

the foot of the pan. Then hold it a little longer

over the fire until the omelet is nicely browned

on th? under-side. Slip a knife under it, and

double over first from one side and then from

the other towards the centre. If it is not quite

cooked on the top, hold it in front of the fire for

a minute or two. Then turn it on to a hot dish,

and serve as quickly as possible.

{Fr.

Ingredients -

4 Eggs.

2 oz. Butter.

Cheese Omelet

Omelette au Parmesan)

3 table-sp. grated Cheese.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Make in the same way as Savoury

Omelet, adding the grated cheese to the eggs.

Ham Omelet

{Fr. Omelette au Jambon)

Ingredients -

2 oz. cooked Ham. ■ 1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

2 Eggs. A little made Mustard.

1 oz. Butter. I Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Make in the same way as Savoiu-y

Omelet, adding the ham (finely chopped) and

mustard to the yolks of eggs.

Mushroom Omelet

{Fr. Omelette au Champignons)

Ingredients -

6 or 8 fresh Mushrooms.

1 Shallot.

1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.

Pepper and Salt.

i oz. Butter.

A Savoury or Plain Omelet.

Method. - Remove the skins and stalks from

the mushrooms, and let them lie in salt and

water for five minutes. Then dry them

thoroughly and cut them small. Melt the

butter in a small saucepan, and put in the

mushrooms, shallot finely chopped, parsley,

pepper and salt. Cook these together for about

ten minutes. Make a plain omelet, and before

folding it over lay the cooked muslu-ooms on

one half.

Shrimp Omelet

{Fr. Omelette aux Crevettes)

Ingredients -

3 Eggs.

1 oz. Butter.

1 tea-sp. Anchovy Essence.

Pepper and Salt.

Mixture -

1 cupful picked Shrimps. I Seasoning.

1 gill White Sauce. I

Method. - Put the shrimps into a small sauce-

pan with the sauce, season to taste, and make

thoroughly hot over the fire.

Make a Plain Omelet, and before folding it over

put the shrimp mixture in the centre.

Cheese Custard

Ingredients -

1 pint Milk.

2 Eggs.

} tea-spoonful Mustard.

Method. - Beat up the eggs with the mustard,

pepper and salt. Heat the milk and pour it on

to them. Add the cheese and pour all into a

3 oz. Cheddar or Oruy6re

Cheese.

Cayenne Pepper and Salt.

GUIDE TO COOKEKY

187

1 gill of Milk.

2 Eggs.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

greased pie-dish, sprinkle a little more cheese

over the top and bake in a moderate oven for

haK-an-hour. Serve hot with plain biscuits.

Cheese Fondue

{Fr. Fondue au Fromage)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter.

3 oz. grated Parmesan

Cheese.

1| oz. Bread-crumbs.

A little made Mustard.

Method. - Put the bread-crumbs and butter

into a basin, boil the milk, and pour it over them.

Add the cheese (keeping back about one dessert-

spoonful), yolks of eggs, and seasonings, and

mix well. Beat up the wliites of eggs to a stiff

froth, and mix them in Ughtly at the last. Poiu*

the mixture into a greased pie-dish or fire-proof

dish, sprinkle the remainder of the cheese over

the top, and bake in a good oven about twenty

minutes, or until nicely browned and well risen.

Note. - Instead of baking tliis in one large

dish, the mixture may be poured into small

china dishes or paper cases, and baked from

ten to fifteen minutes in a good oven. Those

would be called Cheese Ramequins.

Cheese Souffle

{Fr. Souffle au Parmesan)

2 yolks of Eggs.

3 whites of Eggs.

Pepper and Salt.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Ingredients-

1 oz. Butter.

4 oz. Flour.

IJ oz. Cheddar Cheese.

IJ oz. Parmesan Cheese.

1 gill of Milk.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,

add the flour, and mix these two well together

with a wooden spoon. Pour in the milk, and

stir quickly over the fire until the mixture draws

away from the sides of the saucepan. Then

remove the pan from the fire, and add the

grated cheese and the seasonings. Next add the

yolks, one at a time, and beat well together.

Have the whites beaten to a very stiS froth with

a wire whisk, and stir them lightly in with an

iron spoon. Pour the mixture into a greased

fire-proof souffle dish, and do not fill it more than

three-quarters full. Bake in a good oven from

twenty to thirty minutes, or until the souffle is

well risen, is nicely browned, and feels firm to

the touch. Serve in the dish in which it is

baked, and as quickly as possible.

Note. - This may be baked in small china or

paper souffle cases instead of in one large one.

Parmesan Balls

Ingredients -

2 oz. grated Parmesan Salt.

Cheese. Cayenne Pepper.

2 whites of Eggs.

Method. - Boat the whites of eggs to a perfectly

stiff froth with a pinch of salt and a dust of

cayenne. Then stir in quickly and Ughtly 2 oz.

of freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Drop small

tea-spoonfuls of the mixture into a saucepan

of boihng fat, and cook them until a pretty

brown colour (about five minutes). Drain well

and serve on a d'oyley or dish-paper, sprinkled

with Paprika popper and grated cheese.

Potato and Cheese Mould

Ingredients -

J lb. cooked Potatoes.

2 oz. grated Cheese.

2 table-sp. Milk or Cream.

1 oz. Butter.

2 Eggs.

A few browned Bread-

crumbs.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Sieve the potatoes, and add to them

the butter melted, the yolks of eggs, cheese,

seasoning, and the milk or cream. Mix well

together. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, and

stir them in lightly to the other mixture. Grease

a plain mould or basin, and line it with browned

bread-crumbs. Tliree parts fill it with the mix-

ture, and bake in a moderate oven about thirty

minutes. Turn out on a hot dish, and serve at

once.

Swiss Fondue

Ingredients -

4 Eggs.

2 oz. Gruy^re Cheese.

1 oz. Butter.

A little made Mustard.

Plain Biscuits or thin Toast.

Pepper and Salt.

Method. - Beat the eggs in a saucepan, add the

cheese grated and the butter. Season highly,

and stir over the fire until the mixture is soft

and creamy. Serve very hot on toasted biscuits

or fingers of thin toast.

Note. - White wine should be served with this

savoury.

SANDWICHES

This term has now a much wider meaning

than formerly ; it includes not only the plain

sandwich consisting of shoes of meat placed

between two pieces of bread-and-butter, cut in

varying degrees of thickness, but also many

dainty trifles suitable for afternoon teas and

other Ught refreshments.

The variety of these little sandwiches is

endless, and the following hints and recipes are

merely suggestive. Clever fingers and a httle

ingenuity will soon invent many others.

Sandwiches may be made of white or brown

bread, small rolls, various kinds of biscuits,

toast, or pastry, fiUed with meat, salad, eggs,

fish, flavom-ed butter, nuts, &c., and made up

in a variety of ways.

Wlien Bread is used it shoiild be a day old

and fine in texture. New bread that is full of

holes and crumbly will not cut well. A sandwich

loaf is the best for white bread, and Hovis,

Bermaline, or other fine makes for brown.

188

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

If rolls aro preferred they must be quite fresh

and small, and with a soft crust. The little

finger-shaped ones are neatest and are very easy

to arrange.

There are many kinds of plain Biscuits wliich

can be utilised for making sandwiches, and they

make a nice change from the visual bread-and-

butter species. The plain water, milk, wheaten,

and parmesan are eill suitable ; in fact, any kind

which is unsweetened and not too crumbly.

Toast when it is served for this purpose mtist

be thin, well made, and not too crisp.

SUces of Pastry can also be employed, and

are especially suitable for evening refreshments.

Any good pastry may be cut in strips or rounds,

baked in the oven, then allowed to cool and split

open to receive the sandwich mixture.

The Butter used for sandwiches must be very

good and of a consistency that will spread easily

on the bread without cnimbUng it to pieces.

If hard it should be creamed first, or worked

on a plate with a knife until it is soft enough

to use. The knife may be dipped in boiling

water occasionally so as to make the butter

less hard.

The Meat used must be free from all skin,

gristle and a superabundance of fat. In most

cases it is better to mince the meat and mix

it with its special seasonings before placing it

on the bread, unless a more substantial sandwich

is wanted for travellers or sportsmen.

Fish too is better either chopped or poimded

to a peiste, and Salads should be cut in small

pieces.

As will be seen in the following recipes a little

well-flavoured sauce or a little cream is some-

times mixed with the meat or fish, especially

when it is dry, in order to bind all together.

The various kinds of potted meat now on the

market are all most useful for sandwich-making,

and these can either be combined with the butter

or put on as a separate layer.

Sandwiches may be cut in various shapes -

square, triangular, oblong or diamond, while

different fancy shapes may be stamped out with

a cutter, although the latter method is apt to

be wasteful unless the scraps can be otherwise

used up.

Very dainty little sandwiches can also be

made by spreading a tasty mixture on thin

bread and then rolling it up, instead of putting

a second piece of bread on the top.

The thickness and size of the sandwiches

will depend upon the purpose for which they

are to bo xised. For afternoon tea they must

be cut very thin, and nothing of a substantial

nature must bo offered, as it would take away

the appetite for dinner which follows so shortly

after. For evening refreshments they may be

made more substantial, and still more so if they

are to serve as a substitute for meat.

Sandwiches should be served on a pretty

serviette or lace-edgcd paper and may be

decorated with a little peirsley, small cress,

tomato, &c., according to their kind.

Beef and Chutney Sandwiches

Ingredients -

3 oz. cold Boast Beef. I 1 dessert-spoonful Sauce.

1 dessert-spoonful Chutney. White Bread and Butter.

A little Mustard. | Seasoning.

Method. - Mince the beef finely, add to it the

chutney (cut very small) and seasoning, and

moisten with a little well-flavoured sauce. Put

a layer of this between slices of bread and

butter, trim and cut into shapes.

Note. - Different kinds of meat may be used

in the same way, varying the flavouring according

to the kind of meat used. Or, two different

kinds of meat may be used together, such as

ham and chicken, veal and tongue, &c., maj'on-

naise, tomato, brown curry or any savoury

sauce can be used to moisten the mixture.

Egg and Shrimp Sandwiches

Cayenne Pepper.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Small Rolls.

Ingredients -

2 hard-boiled Eggs.

A few picked Shrimps.

1 oz. Butter, or

1 table-spoonful Cream. |

Method. - Chop the eggs and add the shrLmps

cut in small pieces, season to taste, and add the

butter melted or the cream. Mix well together.

SpUt some finger-shaped rolls, put a good tea-

spoonful of the mixture into each, and close

them up.

Note. - A httle mayonnaise sauce may be used

instead of the cream or butter, and chopped

salmon or sardines may take the place of the

shrimps.

Sardine and Cucumber Sandwiches

Ingredients -

Sardine Paste. I Cucumber.

Butter. I Brown Bread.

Seasoning.

Method. - Mix equal quantities of butter and

sardine paste together, adding seasoning if

necessary. Spread this on thin slices of brown

bread. Put some pieces of prepared cucumber

on half the number of pieces, cover with the

others, trim and cut in shape.

To prepare the Cucumber. - Peel a small piece

of cucumber and cut it in thin slices. Lay

these on a plate, sprinkle with salt, and let them

remain at least half-an-hour. Then pour off

the water and season the cucumber with pepper,

salt, and a few drops of oil and lemon juice.

Turn over and over so as to mix thoroughly.

Note. - Any other potted meat may be used

instead of the sardine paste, and white bresMl

instead of brown.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

189

Tomato Sandwiches

Ingredients -

1 or 2 ripe Tomatoes. | Seasoning.

1 Gherkin. I Bread and Butter.

Method. - To prepare the Tomatoes. - Allow

them to soak in boiling water two or three

minutes, then remove the skin and cut them in

very thin sUces. Put the shoes on a plate and

season with pepper, salt, cayenne, and a few

drops of oil and lemon juice. Arrange the

tomato on the top of some thin bread and

butter, sprinkle a Uttle chopped gherkin or pickle

over, and put another piece of bread and butter

on the top. Trim and cut in shape.

Ingredients -

Cheese.

Butter.

Cheese Sandwiches

Seasoning.

Plain Biscuits.

1st Method. - Season butter with cayenne

pepper and mustard and spread it on some

plain biscuits. Put a thin slice of Gruyere,

Cheddar, or Dutch cheese on the top and cover

with another biscuit.

2nd Method. - Season the butter as above and

mix into it an equal quantity of grated cheese

and spread a layer of this between two biscuits.

A Uttle thick cream may be added to the

mixture.

^ote.- Almost any kind of cheese may be

used for making sandwiches, and the various

kinds of cream cheeses are also very suitable.

It is a nice way of using up small remains. A

little salad may be served with these sandwiches.

Nut Sandwiches

Ingredients -

Shelled Nuts.

Cream.

I Slices of Pastry.

I Seasoning.

Method. - Any kind of shelled nuts can be used.

Toast them for a few minutes in the oven or

in front of the fire and then chop them rather

small. Mix with clotted or whipped cream and

season to taste. The mixture may be made

either sweet or savoury. Put a thick layer of

this inside a finger-shaped piece of pastry.

Note. - Honey may be used instead of cream

for sweet sandwiches. Gingerbread or any

plain cake may be used instead of pastry.

Chicken and Celery Sandwiches

Ingredients -

Cooked Chicken. [ Mayonnaise Sauce or Cream.

Celery. I Bread and Butter.

Method. - Take equal quantities of tender

chicken and the heart of celery and chop them

together. Moisten with a httle mayonnaiso

sauce or thick cream and season to taste. Spread

between bread and butter or small sandwich

rolls.

Rolled Sandwiches

Ingredients -

Potted Meat. i Butter

Bread and Butter. 1

Method. - Cream the butter on a plate with

an equal quantity of some tasty potted meat.

If a highly flavoiired paste is used, such as

anchovy, a smaller proportion will be siifficient.

The mixtTire must be delicate in flavour and of

a nice smooth consistency. Spread this on thin

slices of brown bread from which the crust heis

been removed and then roll up the pieces.

If white bread is preferred the roiuid sandwich

loaf makes a very pretty shape.

Spiced Beef Sandwiches

Ingredients -

Spiced Beef. , White Bread.

Curry Powder. Seasoning.

Butter. I

Method. - Flavour the butter with curry powder

and season with mustard and cayenne pepper,

working all together on a plate. Spread shces

of white bread with the mixture and put small

thin slices of sUced beef between each two.

Trim and cut in shape.

HOT AND COLD SWEETS

General Notes. - The number and variety of

culinary preparations to which the term

" pudding " may be applied is very varied,

comprising milk puddings, suet and custard

puddings, batter pudding mixtures, cake-hke

mixtures, souffles, and pastry of different kinds.

For a baked pudding, see that the oven is at

the right degree of heat. Milk puddings require

a moderate oven, whilst for pastry and any

pudding of the nature of a souffle a hot oven is

required. Custard puddings and all those con-

taining custard must be cooked slowly. It is a

good plan when cooking a custard pudding to

stand the dish in a tin of water. Tliis will

prevent the custard becoming watery.

A pudding to be steamed must be put into

a well-greased mould or basin and covered over

with a piece of buttered paper. If a steamer

is not available for the purpose, put the pudding

into a stewpan with just suflScient water to come

190

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

half-way up the mould, put tho lid on tho pan,

and keep the water at simmering point until

the pudding is cooked. Any pudding of the

nature of a custard must be very carefully

steamed, as extreme heat would curdle the eggs

and make the pudding watery. More soUd

puddings may bo steamed more quickly. The

basin should not be more than three-quarters

full.

A pudding which is to be boiled must be tied

over firmly with a cloth wliich has been \^Tung

out of boiling water and sprinkled v,-ith flour.

Have sufficient boiling water in the pan to cover

the pudding, and keep it boiling steadily the

whole tune tlie pudding is in it. A kettle of

boiUng water should be kept at hand to fill up

the saucepan when necessary. Fill the basin to

the brim for a boiled pudding.

Pudding cloths sliould be quickly washed after

using and hung in the air to dry.

^V^l6n suet is losed in a pudding it should be

hard and dry. Remove all skin and fibre from

it and shred it as finely as possible. Dust it

over generously with sieved flour, and then

chop it finely with a long pointed knife. Hold

down the point of the knife on the board with

one hand, and with the other work handle

end up and down. Any suet, if good, can be

used, although beef suet is generally preferred.

Mutton suet, however, makes the Ughtest

puddings, while veal suet is the most dehcate.

To prepare fruit (currants, peel, and sultanas),

see p. 191.

Use moist sugar for all general sweetening

purposes, but castor sugar for all light puddings.

To turn a pudding out of a mould or basin,

lift it from the pan, and allow it to stand a

minute or two. If too great haste is used, the

first steam escaping from the pudding will crack

it. Remove the cloth or paper from the top,

then take hold of the basin with a cloth, and

shake it gently to ascertain that it is coming

away freely from the sides, then reverse it on

a dish, and remove the mould carefully. When

the pudding is in a cloth untie the strings, and

draw the cloth a little from the sides of the

pudding, then reverse it on a hot dish, and draw

the cloth carefully away.

HOT PUDDINGS

Amber Pudding

Ingredients -

6 o". Bread-crumbs.

4 oz. minced Apple.

2 oz. Sugar.

2 oz. Flour.

4 oz. chopped Suet.

1 tea sp. Baking I'owder.

2 table-spoonfuls Golden

Syrup.

2 Eggs.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

A pinch of Salt.

I A little grated Lemon Kind.

Method. - Mix all the dry ingredients together

in a basin, and make a well in the centre. Add

the syrup slightly warmed and the two eggs

well beaten, and mix together, adding a little

milk if necessary. Pour the mixture into a

well-gi'oased mould or basin, cover with a scalded

and floured cloth, and boil quickly for two

hours. Servo with lemon or orange sauce.

Boiled Batter with Fruit

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour.

\ pint Milk.

Fruit.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

2 Eggs.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Sieve tho flour into a basin with the

salt and the baking powder. Make a well in

the centre, and add the two eggs without

beating them. Jlix the flour gradually into

these, and then add the milk by degrees. Beat

the batter well, and then add as much fruit

as it will hold. Apples, cherries, raspberries, or

strawberries are about the best fruits to use.

Apples would require to be peeled, cored, and

shced, cherries stoned, and raispberries or straw-

berries carefully picked. Pour the mixture into

a weU-greased mould, and boil quickly for one

hour. Serve with fruit syrup or any nice sweet

sauce.

Cabinet Pudding with Pineapple

Ingredients -

2 Eggs.

1 table-spoonful Sugar.

3 or 4 slices of Bread.

\ lb. tinned Pineapple.

4 pint Milk.

Method. - Grease a plain round mould, and

cut the bread in rounds to fit it. Drain the

pineapple, and cut it into small pieces. Fill the

mould with alternate layers of bread and pine-

apple. Beat up the eggs with the sugar, and

add the milk. Strain this custard into the

mould, cover with greased paper, and allow tho

pudding to stand for half-an-hour before cook-

ing, so that the bread may become thoroughly

soaked. Then place the mould in a tin with

hot water to come half-way up tho sides, and

cook in a slow oven from a half to three-quarters

of an hour, or until the custard is set. Let it

stand in the mould for a few minutes after it is

cooked. When ready to serve, turn carefully

out and serve with pineapple sauce.

Note. - vSponge-cake cut in slices may be used

in place of bread, and a httle Uqueur added for

flavouring is an improvement.

Chester Pudding

Ingredients -

1 teacupful Ilour.

1 teacupful Sugar.

1 teacupful Bread-cnimbs.

1 teacupful chopped Suet.

1 teacupful Milk.

1 teacupful Blackcurrant

Jam.

\ tea-spoonful Carbonate of

Soda.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Chop the suet finely, and put it into

a basin with the bread-crumbs, flour, sugar, and

salt. Mix these dry ingredients together, make

a well in the centre, and put in the jam. Heat

GUIDE TO COOKERY

191

the milk slightly in a small saucepan, add the

soda free from lumps, and mix quickly. Pour

this while still frothy on to the top of the jam,

and mix all together. Put the mixture into a

greased moiild or basin, cover with a scalded

and floured cloth, and boil for three hours.

Serve with jam sauce.

Chocolate Pudding

{Fr. Pouding au Chocolat)

2 or 3 oz. Chocolate. 1 gill of Milk.

6 oz. Bread-crumbs. 2 Eggs,

3 oz. Butter.

3 oz. Castor Sugar.

A few drops of Vanilla.

A pinch of Cinnamon.

Method. - Cut the chocolate into small pieces,

and dissolve it slowly in the milk. Cream the

butter and sugar together in a basin, add the

yolks of eggs and a few of the bread-crumbs,

and mix well ; then the dissolved chocolate,

vanilla, and the rest of the crimibs, and mix

again. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth

and mix them in lightly at the last. Pour the

mixture into a well -greased mould, and steam

slowly for one and a half hours, until the pudding

is well risen, and feels firm to the touch. Serve

with chocolate, custard, or wine sauce.

Christmas Plum Pudding

{Fr. Pouding de Noel)

Ingredients -

2 lbs. Valencia Raisins.

2 Iba. Currants.

2 lbs. Sultanas.

2i lbs. Sugar.

2 lbs. Suet.

1 lb. Flour.

J lb. Apples.

IJ lbs. Bread-crumbs.

i lb. mixed Peel.

J lb. Sweet Almonds.

2 Bitter Almonds.

1 table-spoonful Mixed Spice-

} tea-spoonful Salt.

Rind and juice of 3 Lemons.

1 glass of Brandy.

1 glass of Kum.

12 Eggs.

Milk if necessary.

Method. - First prepare the fruit. Stone the

raisins and chop them sUghtly. Pick and clean

the currants and sultanas. Shred the peel and

blanch and chop the almonds. Peel and chop

the apples, and grate the rind very thinly from

the lemons. Put all the fruit into a large basin

or crock, add the other dry ingredients and mix

thoroughly. Then beat the eggs, and add them

with the wine, lemon juice, and enough milk to

bind all together. Mix again with a long spoon,

cover the mixture, and let it stand for twenty-

four hours before cooking. Then fill up greased

moulds or basins with the mixture, tie over them

a scalded and floured cloth, and boil from six to

eight hours according to size. Keep the puddings

in a cool place for several weeks before using

them, and reboil for several hours as required.

Before serving the pudding, povir a wine-glassful

of brandy round the base, and set a light to it

just before putting to on the table. The dish

must be hot and perfectly dry, or the brandy

will not bum well.

Notes. - A httle grated orange rind and juice

may be added to the above mixture.

Remains of cold plum pudding are very good

cut in slices and fried.

Date Pudding

(Fr. Pouding aux Dattes)

Ingredients-

i lb. Dates. i tea-spoonful mixediSpice.

2 oz. Sugar. i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

3 oz. Suet. A little Milk.

2 oz. Bread-crumbs, A pinch of Salt.

2 oz. Flour. 1 table-spoonful Treacle.

1 Egg.

Method. - Stone the dates and cut them in

small pieces, and chop the suet, ilix all the

dry ingredients together in a basin, and make a

well in the centre. Add the eggs well beaten,

the treacle sMghtly warmed, and enough milk to

make all of a softish consistency. Pour the

mixture into a well-greased mould, and steam

steadily for at least two hours. Turn out on a

hot dish, and serve with lemon or any other

suitable sauce.

Fig Pudding

{Fr. Pouding aux Figues)

Ingredients -

} lb. Figs.

6 oz. Suet.

J lb. Bread-crumbs.

J lb. Flour.

i lb. Sugar.

2 Eggs.

1 tea-spoonful Mixed Spice.

A pinch of Salt.

J tea-sp. Baking Powder.

J pint Milk.

Method. - Soak the figs in boiling water for

ten minutes, then dry them and cut them in

small pieces, removing the stalks. Sieve the

flour into a basin, add the suet finely chopped,

the sugar, bread-crumbs, spices, baking powder,

and salt, and mix all lightly together with the

fingers. Then add the figs, mix again, and

make a well in the centre. Beat the eggs in

another basin, and pour them into the centre of

the dry ingredients. Add also the milk, and

stir well together. Povir the mixture into a

greased mould or basin, and steam steadily for

at least four hours. Serve with custard or wine

sauce.

Note. - This pudding may be made richer

by adding two ounces of candied peel and two

ounces of swcel almonds. A little wine may also

be added and less milk.

Little Russian Puddings

Ingredients -

2 Eggs, their weight in

Butter, Flour, and Castor

Sjigar.

J tea-sp. Baking Powder.

2 or 3 drops of Vanilla.

2 or 3 drops of Essence of

Lemon.

1 dessert-spoonful grated

Chocolate.

2 or 3 drops of Carmine.

Method. - Cream the butter and sugeir and

add the eggs and flour by degrees (see p. 212).

192

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

When the mixture looks light and shows air-

bubbles, add the baking powder, and then divide

it into three equal portions. To one portion

add the chocolate, to another a few drops of

carmine to make it a pretty pink colour, and

two or tliroe drops of essence of almonds to

flavour, and leave the tliird portion its natural

colour, flavouring with vanilla. Have about

nine small moulds or dariols well greased, and

put into them alternate spoonfuls of the different

mixtviros. Fill them rather irregularly, and then

shake the mixture down. Tliey should not be

more than three-quarters full. Put them into

a saucepan with a double fold of paper at the

foot, poiu- in enough hot water to come half-way

up the sides, and cover with greased paper-

Put the Ud on the pan, and steam the puddings

slowly for half-an-hour. Then turn them out

and serve with custard sauce.

{Fr.

Ingredients-

J lb. Bread-crumbs.

2 or. Flour.

2 01. Rice Flour.

3 02. Castor Sugar.

i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Orange Pudding

Pouding k 1' Orange)

The grated rind of 2 Oranges

and the juice of 1.

J lb. chopped Suet.

A little Milk.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Wipe the oranges with a damp cloth,

and grate the rind off them on to the top of the

sugar. Work the sugar and orange rind together

with a broad-bladed knife until they are

thoroughly blended. Tlion chop the suet finely,

using some of the flour to prevent it sticking to

the board and knife. Mix all the dry ingredients

together in a basin, and make a well in the

centre. Add the orange juice strained, the eggs

well beaten, and enough milk to make all of a

softish consistency. Pour the mixture into a

greased mould or basin, and steam or boil for

at least two hours. Serve with orange sauce.

Note. - Lemon Pudding may be made in the

same way, substituting lemon for orange, and

using rather a smaller quantity of rind.

Pancakes

A little Lard for frying.

Castor Sugar.

Lemon or Orange Juicu.

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour.

1 pint .Milk.

2 EggB.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - There are several kinds of batter

for making pancakes. The above is one of the

simplest.

Sieve the flour and salt into a basin, and make

a well in the centre. Drop in the two yolks of

egg'., and with a wooden spoon mix a little of

the flour gradually into them. Then add about

half the milk verj' gradually, mixing in the flour

by degrees from the sides of the basin. Keep

the batter thick enough to allow of all lumps

being rubbed smooth, then beat well until it is

full of air-bubbles. Add the rest of the milk,

and, if possible, allow the batter to stand for an

hour at loa^t before using it. Just at the last

stir in quickly and lightly the whites of the eggs

beaten to a stiff froth.

Melt some lard in a saucepan, and let it stand

by the side of the firo to keep warm. Put a

little into a small frying or omelet pan, and

make it smoking hot. Then povu* quickly into

the centre of the pan half a gill or so of batter.

If the fat is hot enough, the batter will run all

over the pan at once, whereas if it has not quite

reached the required heat, the pan may have to

be tilted a little to get the batter to cover it

properly. Allow it to rest for a minute or two

vmtil set or nicely browned on the under side,

then slip a broad-bladed knife round the edges,

and then either toss the pancake over or turn

it with the knife. Brown on the other side,

then slip the pancake on to sugared paper, strew

sugar over it, sprinkle with lemon or orange

juice, and roll up. Keep this pancake hot on

a plate placed over hot water until the rest are

cooked. Each pancake will require a little fresh

fat added to the pan. Serve them very hot

and as quickly as possible, and send cut lemon or

orange to table with them.

Preserved Ginger Pudding

Ingredients -

2 Eggs.

3 02. Butter.

3 oz. Castor Sugar.

2 oz. Flour.

2 oz. Rice Flour.

I lb. preserved Ginger.

1 table-sp. Ginger Syrup.

J tea-ap. Baking Powder.

J tea-sp. ground Ginger.

Method. - Put the butter into a basin, and sieve

the sugar on the top of it. Beat these two

together with a wooden epoon until of a creamy

consistency. Then add the eggs and the two

flours by degrees. Beat well for a few minutes.

Cut the ginger into small pieces, and mix it in

lightly at the last with the baking powder,

ginger syrup, and ground ginger. Pour the

mixture into a well-greased mould, cover with

greased paper, and steam slowly for one and a

half hours. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour

custaxd sauce round.

Rice and Orange-Marmalade Pudding

Ingredients -

i lb. Rice.

2 pint Water.

1 quart Milk.

4 oz. Sugar.

1 oz. Butter.

3 Eggs.

2 table-sp. Marmalade.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Wash the rice in several waters until

quite clean, and then put it into a hned saucepan

with half-pint fresh cold water. Bring to the

boil, and pour the water off. Add the milk

and butter, and simmer slowly until the rice is

quite soft and thiclc. Stir well from time to

time, or cook in a double saucepan. When

GUIDE TO COOKERY

193

ready add the yolks of eggs and half the sugar.

Pour the mixture into a greased pie-dish, and

bake about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.

Then spread the top of the pudding rather

thickly with marmalade. Add a pinch of salt

to the whites of eggs, and beat them up to a

stiff froth. Sieve the remainder of the sugar

over them, and pile this meringue over the

marmalade. Return the pudding to a moderate

oven until the meringue is nicely browned and

set, and sprinkle with sugar before serving.

Caramel Semolina Pudding

{Fr. Caramel au Semoule)

Ingredients -

2 oz. Semolina.

1 oz. Sugar.

1 pint Milk.

2 oz. Loaf Sugar.

J gill Water.

2 Eggs,

flavouring.

Caramel

I A squeeze of Lemon Juice,

Method. - ^Rinse out a small saucepan with

cold water, and put into it the semolina and

the milk. Stir these over the fire until boiling,

then simmer from ten to fifteen minutes until

the semolina is quite cooked and the mixture

thick. Remove the pan from the fire, and add

the sugar flavouring to t&ste, and the two eggs

well beaten. Mix well. To make the caramel,

put the sugar, water, and lemon juice into a

small iron saucepan or sugar-boiler, and let them

boil until they become a golden brown colour.

Watch it carefully as it quickly browns. Then

pour the caramel into r plain mould, one and a

half pint size ; take hold of the mould with a

cloth, as it will be very hot, and run the caramel

over the bottom and sides, coating them well.

Allow this to cool for a few minutes, then pour

in the semolina mixture, and cover over with

greased paper. Steam slowly for three-quarters

of an hour, or bake in a moderate oven for

half-an-hour. This may be served either hot

or cold. Turn out carefully when wanted.

Note. - Rice may be used instead of semolina.

Yorkshire Pudding

Make batter the same as for pancakes (p. 192),

pour it into a baking-tin that has been well

greased with dripping from roast-beef, and bake

in a good oven for half-an-hour. Serve at once

cut in small pieces.

SOUFFLES AND FRITTERS

Notes on Souffl6-maldng. - This is a class of

puddings known only by its French name, which

is so generally understood that it has become

almost an anglicized word.

A souffle is a pudding which is made verj' light

by having stifl3y beaten whites of eggs added to

it, or sometimes whipped cream, and of which

the basis is a cooked batter, with raw yolks of

eggs and some distinctive flavouring, or other

ingredient which requires Uttle cooking, eidded

to it.

The preparation of a souffle is exceedingly

simple if exact measures are taken, and if the

directions given for making it are carefully

followed. The only difiiculty is in serving it

soon enough, as it falls so quickly when taken

from the heat. Have everything ready before

beginning to make the souffle. If it is a steamed

one prepare the tin, and put on the saucepan

with the water in which it is to be cooked. If,

on the other hand, it is a baked souffle, see that

the oven is at a right heat for cooking, and grease

the tin or dish to be used.

A souffle tin is a plain round one with high

sides. (A fancy mould is not suitable.) First

grease the mould very carefully

and tliickly with clarified butter.

If for a steamed souffle, cut a

double band of paper] wide enough

to stand three or fovir inches above

the top of the tin and to reach

down to the middle of it. Grease

this band, and tie it round the

outside of the tin, putting the

single edges to the top and the double fold

below. Also grease a round or square of

paper to cover the top.

The whites of eggs for all souffles must be

beaten up very stiffly in a basin with a wire

whisk, and folded rather than mixed in to the

other ingredients, care being taken not to break

them down by too much mixing.

As the mixture rises considerably when cook-

ing, the mould should not be more than half

filled. In a steamed souffie the band of paper

forms a protection to prevent the mixture

falUng over the sides ; in a baked souffle this ia

not so necessary, as the mixture hardens as it

rises.

When steaming a souffle, cook it very slowly

and steadily ; the water must only reach half-

way up the side of the mould, and merely simmer

slowly all the time. If cooked too quickly, the

souffl6 will rise rapidly without becoming firm,

and will then sink in the middle when turned

out, and look hke a crushed hat. A souffle is

ready when it feels firm to the toiich.

Steamed souffl6s are alwaj's turned out of

the moulds in which they are cooked, and a

stutable sauce poured round, never over them.

A souffle that has to be baked should be scored

across two or three times on the top to di\'ide

the mixtin-e before putting it in the oven, other-

wise the first stroke of the spoon when serving

it would lift off all the surface skin. The oven

for baking them should be moderate and steady.

Baked souffles are sent to table in the tins in

which they are baked, and these are either

slipped inside a hot silver case, or a weurm

194

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

ser\-iette is folded round them. Cliina fireproof

dishes may be used instead of the tins.

Apricot SoufQ6

{Fr. Souffle aux Abricots)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Flour.

1 oz. Castor Sugar.

1 gill Apricot Puree.

3 jolka of Eggs.

2 or 3 drops of Cannine or

Cocliineal.

4 whites of Eggs.

A pinch of Salt.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Method. - First prepare the pur6e by rubbing

Bome tinned apricots tlirough a hair sieve. Use

some of the sjTup from the tin along with the

apricots so as not to have the pur^o too thick.

IVesh apricots may be used in place of the

tinned, but these would reqviire to be stewed

first with a little water and sugar.

In making the sovtffl6, proceed exactly ac-

cording to directions given for lemon souffle

using the gill of apricot puree instead of the

gill of milk. Before mixing in the wliites, add

a squeeze of lemon juice, and just enough

Cfunnine or cochineal to make the mixture of a

peachy colour. Pour the mixture into a greased

souffl6 tin and steam slowly and steadily from

half to three-quarters of an hour, or until the

souffle is well risen and feels firm to the touch.

Turn out carefully, and serve at once with

apricot, custeird, or wine sauce poured round it.

Note. - Peach souffle may be made in the same

way.

Apple Souffle (Baked)

{Fr. Souffle aux Pommes)

Ingredients -

J oz. Butter.

Grated rind of } Lemon.

3 large Apples.

2EggB.

2 oz. Castor Sugar.

Method. - Bake the apples in the oven until

they are thoroughly cooked. Then scoop out

all the soft inside and rub this pulp through

a hair sieve. Put the sugar, lemon rind, and

yolks of egga into a medium-sized basin, and

beat them together with a wooden spoon until

of a creamy consistency ; then add the apple

pulp, and mix all together. Beat the whites of

the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them lightly in

at the last. Pour the mixture into a groasod

china souffle dish or pie-dish, and bake in a

moderate oven for about twenty minutes, or

until well risen and firm to the touch. WTien

ready sprinkle with sugar and serve aa quickly

as possible.

Chocolate Souffl6

(Fr. Souffl6 au Chocolat)

In-^redients -

2 or 3 oz. Chocolate. 3 yolks of Eggs.

1 gill Milk. * whites of Eggs.

i oz. Potato Flour. A few drops of Vanilla.

1 table-spoonful Cream. 2 oz. Castor Sugar.

Method. - Break the chocolate into small pieces,

and put it into an enamelled saucepan with half

the milk and potato flour. Cook gently over tlio

fire, stirring from time to time, until the chocolate

is molted and quite free from lumps. Put the

sugar, yolks of eggs, and vanilla into a basin, and

work them together with a wooden spoon until

they are of a creamy consistency. Add the rest

of the milk to this, then the chocolate by degrees.

Return all to the saucepan, and cook together

over the fire until almost boiling. Then remove

from the fire, add the cream, and stir occasionally

for a few minutes. Beat up the whites of the

eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them by degrees

with the other mixture, stirring them in as lightly

as possible. Pour into a greased souffl6 dish,

and cook from fifteen to twenty minutes in a

good oven. Should the souffle become too

brown, put a piece of paper on the top, but do

not open the oven door too often. Sprinkle

with a little sugar just before serving, and send

to table directly.

Lemon SoufflS

(Fr. Souffle au Citron)

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

3 yolks of Eggs.

4 whites of Eggs.

A pinch of Salt.

Ingredients -

1 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Hour.

1 oz. Castor Sugar.

Grated rind of 1 Lemon.

1 gill of Itilk.

Method. - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,

add the flour, and mix well together with a

wooden spoon. Pour in the milk, and stir

quickly over the fire until the mixture boils and

thickens. Wipe the lemon with a damp cloth,

and grate off the rind very thinly on to the

top of the sugar. Rub the sugar and lemon

rind together with the tips of the fingers until

the sugar looks qviite yellow. Remove the pan

from the fire, and add this sugar and a squeeze

of lomon juice, then the yolks one at a time,

beating well between each. Add a pinch of

salt to the whites, and whisk them to a very stiff

froth, then with an iron spoon stir them lightly

but thoroughly into the other mixtiu-e. Pour

all into a prepared souffle tin and steam slowly

from thirty to forty minutes, or until firm to the

touch. Turn out carefully on to a hot dish,

and serve with custard, lemon, or* wine sauce

poured round it.

Note. - Vanilla or orange souffle can be made

in the same way, substituting vanilla or orange

for the lemon.

Ingredients-

3 Eggs.

IJ oz. Sugar.

Omelet Souffl^

(Fr. Omelette Souffl^)

Grated rind of J Lemon.

A little Jam.

Method. - Put the yolks into a basin with the

sugar and grated lemon rind or other flavouring,

and mix well with a wooden spoon until of

GUIDE TO COOKERY

195

a pale creamy consistency. Whip the whites,

with a pinch of salt added to them, to a very

stiff froth, and fold them very lightly into the

yolks. Do not stir more than is necessary.

Pour the mixture into a well-greased omelet

pan, and put in a brisk oven from seven to ten

minutes until of a pale brown colour. When

firm to the touch, turn the omelet out of the

pan on to sugared paper, put a table-spoonful of

warm jam in the centre, and fold over. Lift the

omelet on to a hot dish with a dish-paper, and

serve at once.

Notes. - A little stewed fruit may be used in-

stead of jam, or the omelet may be served plain.

A plain iron or copper pan is the best. If

there is any danger of the omelet sticking to the

pan, the foot may be lined first with a round

of greased paper.

{Another Way)

If preferred, turn part of the mixtiu-e on to

a flat dish, and with a knife shape it into a round

with a depression in the centre. Put the rest

into a forcing-bag, and press it out through a

large pipe into lines or dots over the mound.

Sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a good oven

from ten to twelve minutes. Serve at once on

the dish on which it is baked.

Note. - A little jam may be put in the centre

before using the bag and pipe.

Rum Omelet

{Fr. Omelette au Rhum)

Make a plain omelet according to directions

given above. Wlien ready to place on the table

pour over the omelet a few spoonfuls of rum and

set fire to it.

Semolina Souffle

{Fr. Souffle de Semoule)

Ingredients -

1 oz. Semolina. 4 whites of Eggs.

1 pint Milk. A pinch of Salt.

2 oz. Castor Sugar. Flavouring.

3 yolks of Eggs.

Method. - Rinse out a small stewpan with

cold water, and put the semoUna and milk into

it. Stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until

boiling, and then allow the semolina to simmer

slowly for about ten minutes well between each.

Put the whites into a large basin or beating-

bowl, add a pinch of salt to them, and with a

wire whisk beat them up to a very stiff froth.

Remove the wooden spoon from the mixture,

and with an iron one stir the beaten whites

lightly but thoroughly in. Pour tins into a

prepared souffle tin one and a half pint size,

cover with greased paper, and steam slowly and

steadily from half to three-quarters of an hour,

or until the souffle is well risen and feels firm

to the touch. Turn out carefully on to a hot

dish, and serve at once with jam, custard, choco-

late, or wine sauce poured round it.

Note. - A ground-rice souffle may bo made in

the same way, using ground rice in place of

semolina. These souffles may be baked in a

fireproof dish instead of being steamed.

Batter for Fritters

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour.

1 gill tepid Water.

2 or 3 whites of Eggs.

1 table-spoonful Salad Oil or

melted Butter.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Sieve the flour and salt into a basin,

and make a well in the centre. Add the water

by degrees, and beat well with a wooden spoon

to make a smooth paste free from lumps. Then

add the oil or butter, and beat again for a few

minutes. Whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff

froth, and stir them in very lightly at the last.

Notes. - This batter may be used for all kinds

of fritters.

Sugar should not be added, as it is apt to

make it heavy.

It is better if allowed to stand for some time

before using, and before the whites of eggs are

added.

A little rum or liqueur may be added if desired.

The batter should be very thick, and of the

consistency to coat completely the article it is

intended to cover.

Apple Fritters

{Fr. Beignets de Pommes)

I Sugar.

I Flavouring.

Ingredienta-

Frying Batter.

Apples.

Method. - Choose firm ripe apples ; rennets

are best. Peel tliree or four, and cut them in

slices an eighth of an inch in tliickness. Then

with a small round cutter stamp out the cores.

Put the apple rings on a plato, and sprinkle them

with orange or lemon sugar (see under Lemon

Souffle), and, if hked, a few drops of rum or

brandy. Let them soak for a few minvites, then

steep a round of apple in the batter. Coat it well,

lift it out with a skewer, and drop it into a sauce-

pan of boiling fat. Repeat this with the other

rounds of apple, but do not put more than six or

seven pieces into the fat at one time, as they swell

considerably in the cooking. Tui-n them over

wliile in the fat, and let thein fry a nice amber

colour. Lift them out with a skimmer or per-

forated spoon, and dry on sugared paper in a

moderate oven until all are fried. Tlien servo

them on a folded serviette or dish-paper, the

slices over-lapping.

Banana Fritters

(Fr. Beignets de Bananes)

Ingredients -

3 or 4 Bananas.

Castor Sugar.

Method. - Peel the bananas, cut them in two

lengthways and then once across, making four

Frying Batter.

Wine or Lemon Juice.

196

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

pieces in all. Lay these pieces on a plate,

sweeten and flavour, and let them lie for a few

minutes. Finish off in the same way as Apple

Fritters.

Peach or Apricot Fritters

{Fr. Beignets d'Abricots ou de Peches)

Ingredients -

Peaches or Apricots.

Mkcaroon or Biscuit-crumbs,

Castor Sugar.

Maraachino or other flavour-

ing.

Tvymg Batter.

Metliod. - Cut the fruit in halves or quarters,

and remove the stones. Sprinkle the pieces with

sugar and a few drops of maraschino, and roll

them in macaroon or other biscuit-crumbs before

dipping them in the batter. Finish in the same

nuiiuier as Apple Fritters.

Note. - Tinned fruit does very well for these

if it is drained.

Souffl6 Fritters

(Fr. Beignets Souffles)

Ingredients -

5 oz. Flour.

2 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Castor Sugar.

3 Eggs.

i pint Water.

Flavouring.

A pinch of Salt

Method. - Put the water, butter, sugar, and

Bait into a stewpan, and bring them to the boil

over the fire. Then draw the pan to the side

of the fire, and add the flour which has been

previously passed through a sieve. Mix all

briskly with a spoon until it becomes a perfectly

smooth paste. Stir this paste for a minute or

two over a moderate fire, then remove the pan

from the fire, and add the flavouring and one

egg. Work the paste well until the egg is com-

pletely mixed in, then add the other two eggs

one at a time, beating well between each. Let

it stand till cold. \Vhen ready to serve, drop a

spoonfxil at a time into hot fat, and fry to an

amber colour. Fry only a few at a time, as

more cools the fat too much, and also they

require room to swell. The paste will puff into

hollow balls, and increase throe times in size.

When ready, drain well on sugared papei, and

arrange in a pyramid on a dish. Serve with

lemon or orange sauce.

PIES, TARTS, AND SWEETS WITH PASTRY

Small Apple Dumplings

Ingredients -

Short Crust (p. 164).

6 .Apples.

IJ oz. Demerara Sugar.

1 oz. Butter.

Orated rind of J Lemon.

Method. - Roll out some short crust rather

thinly, and cut out six rounds about six inches

in diameter with a cutter or saucepan lid. Wet

round the edge of these rounds ^vith cold water,

and place an apple peeled and cored whole in

the centre of each. Put the butter, sugar, and

grated lemon rind on to a plate, and mix them

together with a knife. Fill up the holes in the

apples with this mixture. Draw up the edges

of the pastry so that they meet on the top of the

apple, and roll the apple in the hands to make

it a good shape. Place the apple balls as they

are ready on a wetted baking-tin with the join

downwards, brush them over with water or

slightly beaten white of egg, and dredge with

sugar. Bake in a moderate oven from twenty

to thirty minutes. When ready, the apples

should be soft, and the pastry nicely browned.

Serve hot or cold on a dish with a dish-paper

on it, and dredge again with sugar.

Note. - Ground cloves, ginger, or cinnamon

may be used for flavouring the butter and sugar

instead of lemon rind.

Apple Pudding

Ingredients -

Suet Crust (p. 164).

1 lb. Apples.

2 table-sp. Cold Water.

i lb. Sugar.

A little grated Lemon Rind

or 2 or 3 Cloves.

Method. - Wipe the apples with a damp cloth

and peel them thinly. Then cut them in

quarters, remove the cores, and slice them

thinly. Roll out the pastry to about quarter of

an inch in thickness, grease a basin, and line it

with it. Press the pastry well on to the sides

of the basin, and try to keep it of a uniform

thickness. Cut off the trimmings, and roll thona

out in a round shape, large enough to cover the

pudding. Fill up the basin with the apples,

sugax, and flavouring, pressing them well down,

as the fruit sinks considerably when cooking.

Wet the edge of the pastry which Unos the basin,

put on the cover, and press the two edges well

together. Dip the centre of a pudding-uioth in

boiling water, and dredge it with flour. Tie

this over the top of the pudding, and plunge it

into a saucepan of fast-boiling water. Boil

quickly for two hours at least. More boiling

water must be added as required. When ready,

turn out on a hot dish, and serve at once.

Notes. - (1) Any other fruit may be used

instead of apples, and the amount of sugar will

vary according to the acidity of the fruit. Goose-

Ijerrios must be topped and tailed and washed

in cold water ; plums washed in cold water, and,

if time permits, stoned ; rhubarb wiped and cut

in small pieces. All fruit must be carefully

prepared before being put in.

(2) The pudding may be baked instead of

boiled ; a piece of greased paper should then be

twisted over the top of the basin.

(3) Short crust may bo used instead of suet

crust if the pudding is baked.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

197

Apple Tart with Meringue

Short Crust

Ingrediei}Js -

lib. Butter.

C oz. Flour.

2 oz. Corn-flour.

1 oz. Sugar.

1 yolk of Egg.

I tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A squeeze of Lemon .Juice.

Cold Water.

Apple JIixture

1 lb. Apples'tweighed after

peeling).

The Rind of J Lemon.

J lb. Sugar.

2 or 3 table-spoonfuls Water.

2 yolks of Eggs.

3 whites of Eggs.

Meringue

I 3 oz. Castor Sugar.

Method. - First make some short crust with

the ingredients given above, and according to

directions given on p. 164. Wet a dish with

cold water, and cover it with the pastry rolled

out rather thinly. Trim round the edges, and

prick all over the foot with a fork. Then roll

out the scraps of pastry and cut from it bands

about two inches in width. Wet round the

pastry covering the edge of the dish, and lay

the band round. Wliere there is a join wet one

edge with cold water, and fix the two pieces as

neatly as possible. Then decorate round the

edges according to taste, and bake the pastry

in a moderate oven for about half-an-hour, until

brown and crisp. Meanwhile prepare the apple

mixture. Peel the apples, and then weigh them.

Slice them thinly, and put them into a stewpan

with the sugar, lemon rind, and a very little

water. Allow them to stew slowly until quite

soft and pulpy, and rub them tlirough a hair or

wire sieve. Add to th<^m the two yolks of eggs,

and put the mixture into the covered dish.

Whip the wliites of eggs to a stiff froth, add the

sugar sifted to them, and pile this roughly on

the top of the apples. Dredge a little sugar over,

and return the tart to a slow oven to dry and

brown the meringue. About fifteen minutes will

be required. This tart may be served hot or

cold.

Almond Cheese Cakes

(Fr. Tartelettes aus Amandes)

Ingredients -

6 oz. Castor Sugar.

3 oz. Sweet Almonds

(ground).

3 to 4 whites of Eggs.

Short Crust or Puff Pastry.

Method. - Sieve the sugar into a basin, and

add the ground almonds to it, with a good squeeze

of lemon or the orange-flower water. Then add

three or four whites of eggs, according to size,

and beat all with a wooden spoon or spatula.

Tlie mixture must be of a creamy consistency.

Line some patty tins with any good pastry,

and put a little jam at the foot of each. Then

fill them up with the almond mixture. Lay

two tliin strips of pastry across the top, and

A little Jam.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice

or 1 tea-spoonful Orange-

Uower Water.

dredge the tartlets with sugar, which will

give them a cracked appearance when baked.

Bake in a rather slow oven about three-quarters

of an hour. If baked too quickly, they will rise

and then fall again. When ready, they should

be nicely browned, and feel firm to the touch.

Tliis amount of mixture should fill twelve cases.

Chocolate Tartlets

(Fr. Tartelettes au Chocolat)

Ingredients -

3 Macaroons.

1 table-sp. grated Chocolate.

J pint Milk.

2 yolks of Eggs.

Castor

1 dessert-spoonful

Sugar.

A few drops of Vanilla.

Short Crust or Puff Pastry

Method. - Line some dozen small tartlet tins

with any good pastry, but do not bake them.

Put the chocolate into a saucepan with the

milk, and let them simmer for about ten

minutes over the fire, then add the macaroons

crushed to a powder, and simn:ier a few minutes

longer. Remove the pan from the fire, and add

the sugar, flavouring, and yolks of eggs. Mix

well, and fill the Hned tins with this mixture.

Lay some narrow strips of pastry in a trellis-work

pattern over the top, wetting one edge of pastry

wherever a join is made. Bake in a good oven

for about twenty minutes ; then brush the

tartlets over with slightly beaten wliite of egg,

and sprinkle them with sugar.

Lemon Curd Cheese Cakes

(Fr. Tartelettes au Citron)

Ingredients -

i lb. Castor Sugar. 3 yolks of Eggs.

3 oz. Butter. 2 whites of Eggs.

2 Lemons. Tartlet Cases (p. 199).

2 Finger Biscuits.

Method. - Sieve the sugar on to a plate, grate

the lemon rind on the top of it, and work the

two together with a knife until of a uniform

yellow colour. Tlien put this sugar into a sauce-

pan with the butter and eggs slightly beaten

and the finger biscuits made into crumbs. Stir

all gently over a slow fire until the mixture

thickens and becomes Uke honey. Then pour

into jars, and cover tightly with parchment

paper. If stored in a cool place, tliis will keep

for some time.

When tartlets are wanted"fill pastry cases with

the mixture, and warm in the oven, or they may

be served cold.

Or this lemon mixture may be used instead

of jam for an open tart.

Gooseberry Tart

{Fr. Tourte aux Groseilles Vertes)

Ingredients -

Short Crust. I 2 table-spoonfuls Water.

1 lb. Gooseberries. I J lb. Sugar.

Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries and

wash th'em in cold water. Put them into a

198

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

pie-disli in alternate layers with the sugar,

making the last layer gooseberries. Have tlio

fruit piled liigh and well away from the sides of

the dish. Make some sliort crust (p. 1C>4) and

roll it out rather thinly. Wot round the edges

of the pie-dish with cold water. Cut a strip an

inch wide off the pastry, and lay it roimd the

dish. Press it well on, and whore there is a

join wet one of the edges with cold water and

press the two together. Then wet roimd again

with cold water, and lay on a piece of pastry

large enough to cover the top. Ease this on

slightly, and press the two edges well together.

With a sharp knife cut off tlie larger pieces of

pastry hanging round the dish, then hold up

the dish in the right hand, and with the left trim

neatly round the edges. Wlien cutting, take

sharp quick strokes, cutting always from you,

and slanting the knife outwards from the dish

to avoid cutting the pastry too close. Then

with the back of the knife mark round the edges

of the pastry. jNIake the marks quite close

together, and as neat as possible. Next flute

round the edges by drawing the knife quickly

upwards and towards you, and being careful to

make the flutes an equal distance apart.

Brush the pie over with beaten white of egg

or a little cold water, and dredge well with sugar.

This is to glaze it, and should be done just before

the pie is put in the oven. Then with a skewer

make four small holes at the sides of the pie, to

£dlow the steam to escape while cooking. Bake

in a moderate oven about one hour, or until the

gooseberries are cooked and the pastry is nicely

browned. When ready, lift out of the oven

and wipe the dish well with a damp cloth.

Sprinkle the tart with castor sugar, and serve

either hot or cold.

Note. - Any other fniit tart may be made in

the same way. All fruit must be carefully

prepared before being used, and sugar added

according to the acidity of the fruit. A mixture

of fruits may also be used.

Marigold Tartlets

Ingredients -

Pufl or Flaky I'astry.

Apricot Jam.

Sweet Almonds.

Angelica.

Method. - Roll out some jjuff or flaky pa.stry

rather thinly, and stamp it in rounds with a

cutter about 2\ inches in diameter. Place those

rounds on a baking-tin, prick them with a fork,

and bake in a good oven from ten to fifteen

minutes. When ready, lift them on to a sieve

aid let them cool. To finish put a small

tea-spoonful of apricot jam on the centre of each

round of pastry. Stick thin shreds of blanched

almonds round this to imitate the petals of a

marigold, and then garnish with a few small

leaves of angelica.

Mincemeat

Ingredients -

J lb. Suet.

J lb. Valencia Raisins.

\ lb. Sultana Raisins.

i lb. CuiTants.

} lb. Figs.

J lb. Apples.

1 lb. Sugar.

2table-sp. ^larmalade.

3 oz. Citron Peel.

3 oz. Lemon Peel.

3 oz. Orange Peel.

6 oz. Sweet Almonds.

1 dessert-sp. Mixed Spices.

Rind and juice of 2 Lemons.

2 glasses of Brandy.

1 glass of Rum.

Method. - First prepare the fruit, and as each

article is ready put it into a large crock or basin.

Pick and clean the cui-rants and sultanas. Stone

the raisins, peel and core the apples, and chop

these two together with a long sharp knife.

Shred the peel finely, and blanch and chop the

almonds. Remove the stalks from the figs,

wash them in very hot water, and then dry and

cut them in small pieces. Add the spiCQ to the

fruit, also the suet finely chopped, and the lemon

rind grated, and mix tlioroughly with the hands.

Tlien add the marmalade, lemon juice, rum,

and brandy, and mix again. Cover and stand

in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Then

mix once more, and pack into pots or jars.

Tie a piece of parchment over the top of the

pots to make them perfectly air-tight, and keep

the mincemeat in a cool place. Do not use for

several weeks.

Note - Tins mincemeat will keep quite good

for a year at least. If it should become rather

dry, more wine or spirit may be added.

Mince Pies

Required -

Puff Pastry. | Mincemeat.

Method. - ^Roll out puff pastry to one-eighth

of an inch in thickness, and stamp out rounds

with a cutter three to four inches in diameter.

Fold up the scraps of pastry and roll them out

again, cutting out more rounds as before. (The

first rounds that are cut out are always the best,

so keep these more especially for the top of the

pies.) Wet round the edge of half the number

of rounds with a little cold water, and put a

good tea-spoonful of mincemeat in the centre of

each. Cover with the other rounds of pastry,

and press the two edges well together. Make

a small hole with a skewer on the top of each

pie, brush them over with slightly beaten white

of egg, and dredge them with sugar. Place the

pies on a wetted baking-sheet, and bake in a

good oven for twenty minutes until the pastry

is well risen and nicely browned. When ready,

sprinkle again with sugar and serve hot.

Orange Pudding (Baked)

Ingredients -

2 oz. Cake-crumbs. 1 gill Milk.

2 oz. Castor Sugar. 2 Oranges.

1 oz. Butter. A little Pastry.

2 Eggs.

Method. - Lino a mouium-sizod pie-dish with

GUIDE TO COOKERY

199

any good pastry, and then prepare the mixture.

Wipe the oranges with a damp cloth, and

grate off the rind on the top of the sugar.

Work the rind into the sugar with a broad-

bladed knife until they are of a uniform

yellow colour. Then put this into a basin, and

add the cake-crumbs sieved and the butter

broken in pieces. Heat the milk in a small

saucepan, and pour it over the crumbs, &c.

Stir until the butter is melted, add the yolks of

eggs, the strained juice of oranges, and lastly

the wliites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mix

lightly, and pour all into the prepared dish.

Bake in a moderate oven until set and of a Ught

browTi colour. It will take about three-quarters

of an hour. Sprinkle with sugar and serve hot.

Note. - Lemon Pudding may be made in the

same way, substituting one lemon instead of

the two oranges.

Tartlet Cases

In famiUes where there are unexpected visitors,

it is a good plan to keep some tartlet cases readj'

at hand. With some fresh fruit or preserve

they make a nice sweet for an emergency.

Grease any small patty tins or quenelle-shaped

moulds, and line them with rounds of short crust

rolled out rather thinly. {The rounds of pastry

should be cut rather larger than the diameter

of the tins, to allow of some being taken up in

the depth.) Press the pastry well into the

moulds so that it may take the exact shape,

and prick it all over the foot to prevent it bUster-

ing while baking. Lay a small round of paper

into each, and fill with rice or small beans.

Bake in a moderate oven until the pastry is dry

and nicely browned. Then remove the tartlets

from the tins, empty them of the rice or beans,

and store them in an air-tight tin until wanted.

Tlie pastry for these should be rather stiff and

not too rich.

The cases may be filled with a little jam or

fresh fruit (see below), and some whipped and

sweetened cream may be piled on the top.

Strawberry, Raspberry, or Red Currant

Tartlets

Required -

i pint Fruit.

A little Liqueur or any Fruit

Syrup.

J lb. Sugar.

1 dozen Tartlet Cases.

j gill of Watei.

Method. - Choose nice ripe fruit, pick it, and

put it into a basin. Put the sugar and water

into a saucepan, and boil them to a syrup, but

do not let thein colour. Add a little liqueur or

some fruit sjTup or essence to flavour. Pour

this sjTup over the fruit, and stand in a warm

place for half-an-hour. Then lift out the fruit

carefully, place it in the tartlet ceises, and pour

one or two tea-spoonfuls of the syrup over.

Serve oithar hot or cold.

Note. - A little whipped cream sweetened and

flavoured may be piled on the top.

i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A little Flavouring.

2 table-spoonfuls Jam.

West Riding Pudding

Ingredients -

2 Eggs.

The weight of the Eggs in

Butter, Flour, and Sugar.

Some scraps of Pastry.

Method. - Roll out scraps of any suitable

pastry into a strip four or five inches in width,

and line the sides and edges of a wetted pie-dish

with it. Join the ends neatly, and press the

pastry well on to the rim of the dish and sUghtly

over the outer edge ; then trim round with a

knife. Wet the rim of pastry with a little cold

water, and decorate all round the edge with small

fancy -shaped pieces of pastry. Press these well

on. Put the jam at the foot of the pie-dish, and

then prepare the mixture. Sieve the sugar into

a basin, add the butter, and beat these two

together with a wooden spoon until they are of

a, creamy consistency. Then add one egg and

half the flour sieved, beat well, then the second

egg and the rest of the flour, and beat again.

Flavour to taste, and add the baking powder

at the last. Half fill the pie-dish with this

mixtiu-e, and bake in a good oven for one hour,

or until the mixture is quite set and of a nice

brown colour. Sprinkle with sugar before

serving.

COLD PUDDINGS

Jellies

Tlie Setting of Jellies. - The moulds in wliich

jelHes are to be set should have been well washed

with hot water to render them perfectly'' free

from grease, and then soaked in hot water, or

left filled with cold water up to the tinie of using.

The best moulds for jellies are those which

are made of copper and tinned inside.

The temperatvire at which jelly is moulded

ought to be such that, while still perfectly hquid,

it is not sensibly warm. If poured into the

mould hot it is apt to become cloudy, and there

is Ukely to be difficulty in turning it out.

Wlien putting the jelly aside to cool, see that

the mould stands perfectly even, in order that

the jelly may stand straight and firm when

unmoulded.

The great secret in making jelly that looks

bright is to take pains with the clearing of it.

Tlae right proportions must also be taken, so

that the jelly may hold its shape without being

firm and solid. It is much easier to turn a stiff

jolly out of a mould than one that is just of

sufficient consistency to stand, but a stiff jelly is

never good.

As a rule, a jelly is ornamental in itself,

provided it is bright and is served in an equally

bright crystal or silver dish ; but with different

200

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

flavours, colours, and combinations, a great

variety of more fanciful-looking sweets may

be obt.iuned. Ornament-ation, howovor, requires

care and taste ; unless the decoration is nicely

done, the dish will have a slovenly appearance,

corresponding very much to tawdry finery in

dress.

To Unmould a Jelly. - Take a basin of hot

water, hotter than the hand can comfortably

bear, and dip the mould quickly into it, letting

the water cover it for a second (if a china mould

is used a little longer immersion in the water will

be necessary). Then wipe the moistxu-e off the

mould with a cloth, and loosen the jelly away

from the sidee with tlie tips of the fingers.

Shake the jelly gently until it seems to be loose

in the mould, place the dish on which it is to be

served on the top, and reverse both together.

Give another slight shake, and draw the mould

slowly off.

Jellies aro improved by having whipped cream,

custard, or a pur6e of fruit served with them.

This may either be put round the dish or served

separately.

Apple Jelly

{Fr. Gelee de Pommes)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Apples (weighed after

peeling).

3 oz. Sugar.

3 gills of Water.

The rind of 1 Lemon.

1 oz. Gelatine.

A few drops of Carmine.

J pint Double Cream.

A little Sugar.

A few Pistachio >"uts.

Method. - Peel, core, and slice the apples, and

then weigh them. Put them into a lined stew-

pan with two gills of water, the thinly peeled rind

of a lemon, and the sugar. Stew until reduced

to a pulp, and then rub through a hair sieve.

Melt the gelatine in the remainder of the water

and strain it into the apple pulp. Colour part

of this apple jelly pink with a few drops of car-

mine, and fill a border mould wath alternate

layers of yellow and pink, always allowing one

layer to set before pouring in another. When

quite f\ill, sot in a cool place until firm. Turn

out when wanted, and fill the centre with the

cream, whipped and sweetened.

Decorate with a few chopped pistachio nuts

or other suitable decoration.

Bananas in Jelly

(Fr. Gelee aux Bananes)

Ingredients -

Bananas. i Pistachio Nuts.

Lemon or Wine Jelly. 1

Metfiod. - Pour into a plain mould enough

sweet jelly to cover it to the depth of quarter

of an inch. Peel the bananas, and cut them in

shces with a silver knifo. Place them on the

jelly when it is firm, arranging them in a circle,

one resting on the other. Make a small circle

also in the middle of the mould if it is large

enough. Pour a very little jelly over to keep

tho fruit in position, and let it set. Then cover

with more jelly, and when that is firm put in

more banana, and proceed in this way until the

mould is full. Some blanched and shredded

pistacliio nuts may be used with the bananas,

or the jelly may bo coloured slightly pink with

a few drops of canhine.

Note. - Other fruits such as grapes, straw-

berries, raspberries, red or white currants,

sections of orange, &c., may be set in jelly in

the same way. A mixture of fniits (Alacedoine

de Fruit) sdso looks pretty.

Coffee Jelly

{Fr. Gel6e au Caf6)

Ingredients -

i pint strong Coffee.

J oz. Gelatine.

1 oz. Sugar.

3 or 4 drops of Vanilla.

For the Centre.

1 gill double Cream.

Sugar and Flavouring.

A few pieces of preserved

Cherry and Angelica.

Method. - The coffee must be strong and clear.

Put it into a lined saucepan with the sugar

and gelatine, and dissolve slowly over the firo.

Then strain into a basin, add the vanilla, and

cool slightly. Rinse out a border mould with

cold water, and fill it with the coffee jelly. Set

aside until firm, and turn out when wanted.

For the centre, whip the cream with a fork until

thick, and sweeten and flavour to taste. Pile

this in the centre of the coffee jelly, and decorate

with a few pieces of preserved fruits.

Lemon Jelly

{Fr. Gel6e au Citron)

4 Cloves.

2 oz. Leaf Gelatine.

The rind of 2 Lemons.

Ingredients -

I pint Lemon Juice.

li pints Cold Water.

6 oz. Loaf Sugar.

1 inch of Cinnamon Stick. 2 whites and sheUs of Elggs,

Method. - Take a clean fined saucepan, and

put into it the water, gelatine, sugar, cinnamon

stick, and cloves. Wipe the lemons with a

damp cloth, and peel the rind very thinly off

two of them. Do not peel off any of the white

part, as this would give the jelly a bitter taste.

Tlien roll the lemons on the table to soften

them, cut them in halves, and squeeze out the

juice until there is half a pint. Strain this into

the saucepan, and add the lemon rind and the

whites and shells of eggs. The latter should be

washed and crushed. The pan should not be

more than half full, as the jolly is verj' apt to

boil over. Take a ware whisk, and wliisk the

jolly over tho fire until a good froth rises on it and

it is just bpginning to boil. Watch the jelly care-

fully, and let it boil up as high as it will without

boiling over. Then draw the pan gently to one

side of the fire, where it will keep warm without

GUIDE TO COOKERY

201

simmering, and cover it over with a lid or plate.

Let it stand for ten minutes, and then strain

in the same way as Clear Soup (p. 120). Cover

the stand over with a piece of flannel or blanket,

and let it remain iintil all the jelly has run

through.

Pour the jelly into a mould that has been

rinsed out with cold water, and put it in a cool

place to set. Turn out on a glass or silver dish

when wanted.

The jelly should be strained in a warm place

and out of a diaught. Should it stiffen in the

cloth before all has run through, place a small

basin or cup in the centre and fill it with boiling

water.

Orange Jelly

{Fr. Gelee d'Orange)

Ingredients -

i pint Orange Juice (4 or 5

Orangfis).

The rind ot tTo Oranges.

J lb. Loaf Sugar.

1 oz. Sheet Gelatine.

I pint Water.

The rind and juice of

Lemon.

Method. - Wipe the oranges and lemon with a

damp cloth, and then peel off very thinly as

much rind as is required. Put the rinds into a

small lined saucepan with the gelatine cut in

small pieces, the loaf sugar, and water. Stir

these over the fire until the gelatine is quite

dissolved, and then simmer for ten minutes.

Skim and strain into a basin. Roll the oranges

and lemon on the table to soften them slightly,

cut them in halves, and squeeze out the juice.

Strain and measure this, and add it to the other

ingredients in the basin. Stir occasionally, and

do not mould imtil cool. Pour into a wetted

mould or moulds, and set in a cool place until

firm. Turn out when required, and serve with

cream. Or the jelly may be set in a border

mould, and when turned out the centre filled

with whipped and sweetened cream. Decorate

the cream with chopped pistachio nuts or small

pieces of cherry.

Note. - This jelly may be cleared with the

white of an egg in the same way as Lemon Jelly

(see above).

Port Wine or Claret Jelly

{Fr. Gelee au Vin Rouge)

Jngredienta -

i pint Port or Claret,

i pint Water.

The rind and juice of 1

Lemon.

} lb. Loaf Sugar.

Method. - Put into a small lined stewpan the

water, sugar, red currant jolly, cinnamon, and

cloves. Cut the gelatine into small pieces, and

add it with the lemon rind peeled off very thinly

and the strained juice. Stir over the fire until

the gelatine is quite dissolved. Simmer for a

few minutes, and add the mne. Do not boil

again. Strain tlu-ough a piece of muaUu, and if

1 1 able-sp. Red Currant Jelly.

1 inch Cinnamon Stick.

3 Cloves.

1 oz. Sheet Gelatine.

2 or 3 drops of Carmine.

necessary, add a few drops of cochineal or car-

mine. When nearly cold, pour into one large

or several small moulds that have been rinsed

out with cold water. Set aside in a cool place

until cold and firm. Turn out when required,

and if wished, decorate with whipped and

sweetened cream.

Prune Jelly

{Fr. Gelee aux Prunes)

Ingredients-

1 lb. Prunes.

2 oz. White Sugar.

Rind of i Lemon.

1 oz. Gelatine.

1 inch Cinnamon Stick.

J pint Water.

1 oz. Sweet Almonds.

1 glass Claret.

1 gill whipped Cream.

Sugar and Flavouring.

Method. - Wash the prunes, and allow them

to soak at least half-an-hour in the cold water.

Then put both into a clean lined saucepan, and

add the lemon rind thinly peeled, the cinnamon

stick, and sugar. Stew until quite tender, then

strain off the Uquid, and rub the prunes through

a sieve. Crack the stones, blanch the kernels,

and add them to the pulp. Put the Uquid

from the prunes into a saucepan, add to it the

claret and gelatine, and dissolve carefully over

the fire. Strain this into the pulp, and stir

occasionally until nearly cold. Rinse out a

border mould with cold water, and decorate it

with some sweet almonds, blanched and shred,

fill up with the prune mixture, and set aside in a

cool place until firm. Then turn out, and serve

with wlupped and flavoured cream in the centre.

Decorate with some chopped pistachio nuts

or with a few glac6 cherries cut in small pieces.

Wine Jelly

{Fr. Gelee au Vin)

2 Cloves.

The rind of 2 Lemons.

2 oz. Sheet Gelatine.

2 whites and shells

Ingredients-

i pint Sherry.

1 gill Lemon Juice.

5 gills Water.

J lb. Loaf Sugar. 2 whites and shells of

1 inch Cinnamon Stick.

Method. - Prepare the ingredients and make

the jelly according to directions given for lemon

jelly (p. 200). Set in one large or several small

moulds, and turn out when wanted.

CREAMS

Apricot Cream

{Fr. Creme d'Abricots)

Ingredients -

J pint Apricot Purt5e.

i pint Double Cream.

i oz. Sheet Gelatine.

2 table-sp. Water or Syrup

from the Apricots.

2 oz. Castor Sugar.

Squeeze of Lemon Juice.

A few drops of Carmine.

Decorations.

Sweet Jelly. Pieces of

Apricot and Pistachio Nuta

or Glace Cherries.

Method. - Rinse out a mould with cold water

and leave it wet. Then decorate the top of it

202

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

with some lemon or wine jelly, and small pieces

of apricot and chopped pistacluo nuts, or any

other suitable decoration. Set this aside imtil

the jelly stiffens. Make the piu-6e by rubbing

tinned apricots tlirough a hair sieve. Use a

little of the sjTup from the tin, so that the pur6e

is not too thick, and weigh the half pint after

sieving. Put the pur^ into a basin, and stand

the basin over a saucepan of hot water until the

contents are slightly warm. If quito cold, the

gelatine would not mix well with it. Cut the

gelatine into pieces with a pair of scissors, and

put it into a small saucepan ^\-ith two tablo-

spoonfuls of water or apricot syrup. Stir it

over the fire until quite dissolved, strain it into

the apricot purtkj, and mix well. Add the sugar

and a squeeze of lemon juice. The quantity of

sugar may be regulated according to taste.

Whip the cream in a separate basin until quite

thick, and then mix it lightly to the other in-

gredients. Add enough carmine to make the

cream of a peachy colour, not too pink, and stir

occasionally until beginning to set. Tlien pour

it into the prepared mould, and place in a cool

place or on ice until set.

When required, tiu-n out on a glass or silver

dish, and put a border of chopped jelly round.

Note. - If fresh apricots are used, they must

be stewed first with a little water and sugar.

A Peach Cream (Fr. Creme aux Peches) may

be made in the same way.

Coffee Cream

{Fr. Creme au Caf6)

Ingredients -

i pint Double Cream.

i pint Coffee Custard.

3 oz. Sheet Gelatine.

2 table-spoonfuls Coffee.

A few drops of Vanilla.

1 gill strong Coffee.

1 gill Milk.

3 yolks of Eggs.

1 white of Egg.

2 oz. .Sugar.

Decorations- ii-wtet Jelly and a few pieces of Preserved

Fruits.

Method. - Decorate the foot of a wetted mould

with some sweet jelly and some pieces of pre-

served fruit.

Have ready some very strong and clear coffee,

and put one gill of this and one gill of milk into

a small saucepan to heat. Beat up the yolks

and wliite of egg with the sugar in a basin, and

pour the hot milk and coffee slowly on to them,

stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Re-

turn this to the saucepan, and stir carefully

over the fire until the custard thickens without

allowing it to boil. Remove at once from the

fire and strain into a ba.sin. Cut the gelatine in

pif^ces, and dissolve it in a saucepan with two

table-spoonfuls of coffee, and then strain it into

the cvistard. Add two or three drops of vanilla

and more sugar if wished. Whip the cream and

add it to the custard mixture. Stir occasionally

until the mixture shows signs of setting, and

then pour it into the prepared mould. Set

aside in a cool place until firm. When required,

turn out on a pretty dish, and decorate with

preserved fruits or chopped jelly.

Note. - The decoration may be varied accord-

ing to taste.

Chestnuts in Cream

{Fr. Nid de Marrons a la Creme)

Ingrediejvts -

1 lb. Chestnuts. | i lb. Castor Sugar.

Milk. 1 pint Double Cream.

A small piece of Vanilla. | Sugar and Flavouring.

Decorations- Crystallised Violets.

Method. - To peel the chestnuts, cut them

round lightly with a knife ; put them into a

stewpan just covered with cold water, and boil

for five minutes over the fixe. Then strain and

peel off both the shell and the inner skin. Put

the chestnuts thus prepared into a saucepan,

cover them with milk, and add a small piece of

vanilla. Put the hd on the saucepan, and cook

slowly until the chestnuts are quite tender and

the milk reduced. Crush them in the stewpan

with a wooden spoon, add the sugar, and pasa

aU through a fine sieve. Put the pxiree into a

basin, and stir it for a minute or two to render

it smooth ; if it is too thick, add a little milk to

it, but it is necessary for it to be of a good

consistency.

Form a border round a dish with this chestnut

puree forced through a syringe made for the

purpose, when it takes the form of vermicelli,

or if there is no syringe at hand, simply place a

fine sieve upon a round dish, and pass the chesl -

nut puree through it, forming a border round

the dish. Whip and flavour the cream and pile

it in the centre. Decorate with a few crystal-

lised violets and nuts.

{Fr.

Ingredients -

1 pint Milk.

3 Eggs.

2 table -spoonfuls Sugar.

A pinch of Salt.

Italian Cream

Creme a I'ltalienne)

J oz. Gelatine.

2 table-spooufuls Water.

Flavouring.

Method. - Make a custard with the yolks of

eggs, sugar, and milk. Pour it into a basin,

and add the flavouring and salt. Dissolve the

gelatine in a little water, and pour it into the

custard. Mix well together, and strain all into

another basin. When the custard begins to

stiffen, stir in very lightly the whites of the eggs

beaten to a stiff froth. Turn all into a wetted

mould, and set aside until firm. When wanted,

turn out on a glass or silver dish.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

203

Meringues with Cream

(Fr. Meringues a la Creme)

Ingredients -

3 whites of Eggs. J pint Double Cream.

A pinch of Salt. 1 table-spoonful Sugar.

9 oz. Castor Sugar. A few drops of Vanilla.

Method. - Put the whites into a large basin,

add a pinch of salt, and with a wire whisk beat

thera to a very stiff froth. Sieve the sugar, and

mix it in gently and lightly with an iron or silver

spoon. Place a sheet of white paper all over a

Wooden board or baking-sheet of iron, and place

the meringues on it.

To Shape the Meringues. - You will require

two dessert-spoons, a palette knife, and a jug

or basin of cold water. Take up a spoonful of

the meringue mixture in a wetted spoon, and

with a palette knife also wet, smooth it qmckly

over, piUng it high in the centre and pointed at

the two ends. With the second spoon, scoop

the meringue out, and place it on the prepared

tin or board. Or the meringue mixture may be

put into a forcing-bag, and the shapes forced

out on the tin. Leave a space of half an inch

between each meringue, and sprinkle them with

fine sugar. Place them in a very gentle oven

until they are crisp and deUcately tinted golden.

Turn the paper on wliich the meringues have

been baked upside down upon the table ;

moisten the paper on the back with a brush

dipped in cold water ; five minutes after the

meringues will come off easily. Make each

meringue hollow by pressing with the finger on

the centre of it. place them back on the tin,

and put them again in *he oven for a few minutes

to dry.

Wliip the cream until thick, sweeten and

flavour it. Fill the meringues with tliis, putting

two pieces together, and pile them on a glass or

silver dish.

Notes. - ^In making meringues the stiff beating

of the wliites of eggs is essential, but it is equally

essential that this beating should cease directly

the right consistency is attained, or a broken

curdled appearance will be the result, and the

mixture will be close and heavy. As soon as

the egg froth stands up in solid points on the

withdrawal of the whisk, or wiU allow itself to

be divided with a knife into two separate

halves, stop beating.

The oven will be suitable for cooking meringues

when it has cooled down after other uses, or

■when the fire is allowed to get quite low. One

of the main points in making meringues is their

prolonged and thorough drying in a cool oven.

Instead of baking them on paper, warm an

ordinary baking-tin, rub the bottom of it all

over with white wax, and cook the naeringues

on that.

Meringues may be stored in a tin and kept

for use at any time.

For the filling, any flavouring or liqueur may

i pint Double Cream.

2 or 3 oz. Sugar.

be added to the cream, or smaU pieces of fresh

fruit may be mixed in. The cream may also

be coloured pink with a little carmine.

Rice Cream

(Fr. Riz a I'lmperatrice)

Ingredients -

li pint llilk. J oz. Gelatine.

The rind of 1 Lemon. 2 table-spoonfuls Water.

i lb. Carolina Rice.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Put the rice and milk into a sauce-

pan with the thinly peeled rind of one lemon

and a pinch of salt. Cook until the rice is per-

fectly tender. (A double saucepan is best for

this.) The milk should be nearly boiled away,

leaving the rice very moist. Then add the

gelatine dissolved in a Httle water, the sugar,

and more flavom-ing if wished. A little liqueur

or wine added is a great improvement. Mix

well, and when begiruiing to set, stir in the cream

whipped stiffly. Pour the mixture into a wetted

mould, and allow it to set. Turn out when

wanted on to a glass or silver dish.

Notes. - This is a very white dish, and makes

a dehcious dessert. It may be served alone or

with a puree of apricots poured round it as a

sauce. A compote of fruits may be served

separately, or small pieces of ripe fruits pre-

viously soaked in wine or Uqueirr may be mixed

with the rice mixture before moulding, or, if

liked, the mould used may be first decorated with

some sweet jelly and pieces of fruit.

Strawberry Cream

{Fr. Creme aux Fraises)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Strawberries.

h pint Double Cream.

3 oz. Castor Sugar.

1 oz. pink Gelatine.

2 table-spoonfuls Water.

Squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Decorations- Some Sweet Jelly, Strawberries, and

Pistachio Nuts.

Method. - Rinse out a mould with cold water

and leave it wet. Then decorate the top of it

with some sweet jeUy (in a Hquid state), some

nice pieces of strawberry, and a few chopped

pistacluo nuts. Let this decoration set before

poui'ing in the cream.

Pick the strawberries, and rub sufficient of

them through a fine hair or silk sieve to make

half a pint of puree. Put this puree into a basin,

and stand the basin over a saucepan of hot water

until the contents are slightly warm. Unless

tliis is done the gelatine will not mix properly

with it. Cut the gelatine into pieces, and dis-

solve it in a small saucepan with the water.

Keep stirring it constantly with a wooden spoon

to prevent it sticking to the foot of the pan,

then strain it into the pur^e, being careful not

to lose any. Mix well. If wliite gelatine is

used, a few drops of carmine will reqtiire to be

204

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

added. Put the cream into a large basin, and

with a wire wliisk switch it until quito tliick.

Mix tliis lightly but thoroughly beside the pxir^e,

and add sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Stir this mixture occasionally until it is almost

setting, and then pour it carefully into the pro-

pared mould. Let it stand in a cool place or on

ice luitil it is quite firm. \Vlien wanted, turn

out the cream on to a silver or glass dish \rith

a lace-edged paper on it, and decorate round

with strawlxirry or fern leaves and a few fresh

strawberries.

Note. - Do not allow a strawberry cream to

remain too long in the mould, as it ia apt to

discolour.

Several small moulds may be used instead

of one large.

Raspberry Cream {Fr. Creme aux Framboises)

may be made in the same way, using raspberries

instead of strawberries. A few red currants

may also be added.

Vanilla Cream

(Fr. Creme a la Vanille)

Ingredienis -

i pint Double Creani. Custard.

J pint Custard. 3 yolks of Eggs.

Vanilla Flavouring. 1 white of Egg.

} oz. Sheet Gelatine. i pint of Milk.

2 table-spoonfuls "Water. 1 oz. of Sugai-.

Decorationg-A little Lemon Jelly, a few Cherries, and

I'istacluo Nuts.

Method. - First rinse out a mould with cold

water and leave it wet. Then decorate it at

the foot with some liquid jelly, pieces of cherry

and chopped pistachio nuts. (Any preserved

fruit may bo used for decorating that will make

a pretty contrast to the pale colour of the cream,

or the jelly may bo coloured pink with a little

carmine or cochineal.) Let the jelly at the foot

of the mould set before pouring in the cream

mixture.

To Prepare the Cream. - Make the custard

according to directions given on p. 146. Flavour

the custard with vanilla essence, or it may be

flavoured with vanilla pod by stewing the pod

in the milk for a short time before making the

custard.

Cut the gelatine into pieces with a pair of

scissors, put it into a small saucepan with the

water, and stir over the fire, letting it dissolve

slowly. Then strain into the custard, being

careful not to lose any, and mix well.

Put the cream into a separate basin, and

switch it until thick. Add this to the ctistard

mivture, and stir occasionally until the cream

shi ws signs of setting. Then pour into the

prepared mould, and set aside in a cool place or

on ioe until cold and firm. When wanted, turn

out on a gla'w or china disli, and decorate with

preserved fruits or chopped jelly. A laco-edgod

paper may, if liked, be put on the dish first.

Custard.

i pint Milk.

3 yolks of Eggs.

1 white of Egg.

2 oz. Sugar.

Walnut Cream

{Fr. Creme aux Noix)

Irujrcdicnts -

i lb. shelled Walnuts.

J pint Custard.

i pint Double Cream.

i oz. Sheet Gelatine.

2 table-spoonfuls Water.

Vanilla or other Flavouring.

Decora Kose Leaves crystallised.

Method. - ^Rinse out a mould with cold water

and leave it wet. Decorate the foot with a

little sweet jelly, pistachio nuts, and crystallised

violets or rose-leaves, and allow the jelly to set.

Make the custard as dire^jted on p. 146.

Melt the gelatine in a small saucepan with the

water, and strain it into the custard, being

careful to scrape it well out of the pan. Put

the walnuts on a tin and roast them in the oven

for a few minutes, so as to draw out the flavour.

Then pound them in a mortar or crush them

with a rolling-pin. Add them to the custard

with a little flavouring. Wlaisk the cream until

thick, and mix it lightly in beside the other

ingredients. Stir the cream occasionally until

it is almost setting, and then pour it into the

prepared mould. Place the mould in a cool

place or on ice until the creaiu is firm. Wlien

required, tm-n out on to a glass or silver dish,

and decorate round the edges with a little

chopped jelly and a few crystallised violets.

SIMPLE COLD PUDDINGS

Caramel Custard

{Fr. Creme Renvers6e a la Vanille)

Ingredients -

Caramel.

3 oz. Loaf Sugar.

J gUl Cold Water.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Ctistard.

2 yolks of Eggs and

2 wliole Eggs.

\ pint Milk.

1 dessert-spooiiful Sugar.

Vanilla Flavouring.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Make the caramel according to

directions given on p. 193, and coat a plain

souffl6 tin with it. Allow this to become cold

whilst making the custard. Put the eggs into

a basin with the sugar, flavouring, and a pinch

of salt, and mix them to a cream with a wooden

spoon. Heat the milk and pour it slowly on

to the egg mixture, stirring all the time. Strain

the custard into the prepared mould and cover

with greased paper. Steam very slowly for

one hour, or until the custard feels firm in the

centre ; or bake in a moderate oven with some

warm water round the mould. When the

custard is cold, turn it out on a glass dish. It

will have a glaze some will run round the sides and serve as a

GUIDE TO COOKERY

205

l with some coffee essence (Coffee Caramel

Custard).

Chocolate Custard

{Fr. Creme Toumee au Chocolat)

Ingredients -

3 tablets of Chocolate or2 oz. I 5 yolks of Eggs.

1 gill of Hot Water. i\ oz. fine Sugar.

1 pint MUk. I i whites of Eggs.

Method. - Dissolve the chocolate in a saucepan

with the hot water, add the milk, and let it boil

up. Put the yolks of eggs into a basin with the

sugar, and cream them well together with a

wooden spoon. Add the chocolate little by

little to the eggs, then return all to the saucepan,

and stir over the fire until it thickens. At this

point remove the stewpan from the fire and add

to the custard the whites of eggs beaten to a

stiff froth. Stii' for a minute or two longer

over the fire, but it must not boil. Serve in a

glass dish or bowl.

Chocolate Mould

(Fr. Moule au Chocolat)

Ingredients -

2 oz. Chocolate.

3 gills of ^rilk.

2 yolks of Eggs.

i oz. Gelatine.

1 or 2 oz. Sugar.

A few drops of Vanilla.

Method. - Break the chocolate in small pieces

and put it into a lined saucepan with one gill of

milk. Dissolve slowly over the fire and cook

until smooth. Then remove the saucepan

from the fire and add the remainder of the milk,

the gelatine, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Stir

again over the fire until almost boiling and until

the gelatine is dissolved. Strain into a basin,

add a few drops of vanilla, and cool slightly.

Then pour into a wetted mould and set aside

until firm. Turn out when wanted, and serve

plain or with whipped cream.

Tliis pudding may be made less rich by

omitting the yolks of eggs.

Coffee Blanc-Mange

{Fr. Moule au Cafe)

Ingredients -

{ pint Mlk. I J. oz. Sugar.

\ pint strong clear Coffee. | A few drops of Vanilla.

- oz. Corn-flour. 1 oz. Butter.

Metlwd. - Put the coffee and half the milk into

a saucepan to heat, ilix the corn-flour smoothly

with the remainder of the milk and add it to the

hot liquid in the saucepan. Stir over the fire

until boiling, and boil slowly about ten minutes.

Add the sugar, butter, and vanilla, and mix

well. Pour all into a wetted mould, and set

aside vmtil cold.

A^ofe. - A little cream added to this is an

improvement. The coffee used should be very

strong and clear.

Devonshire Junket

Ingredients -

1 pint new Milk. i 1 table-sp. Castor Sugar.

1 tea-sp. Essence of Kennet. i tea-sp. ground Cinnamon,

i glass of Brandy. 1 Clotted Cream.

Method. - Mix together in a glass bowl or

deep dish the brandy, cinnamon, and sugar.

Pour on to these one pint of new milk, or fresh

milk heated to the temperature of new milk,

and add the rennet. Stir it well, and let it

remain until it is set. Then spread some clotted

cream over the top, and sprinkle with castor

sugar.

When well made, junket should cut into

smooth shiny slices like jelly. Unlike jelly, it

will set better and more quickly in a room of

ordinary temperatm-e than in a cold larder.

Gateau of Cherries with Cream

{Fr. Gateau de Cerises a la Creme)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Cherries.

3 gills of Water.

I oz. Leaf Gelatine.

The juice of i Lemon.

J lb. Sugar.

A few drops of Carmine.

1 gill of Double Cream.

Sugar and Flavouring.

Method. - ^Wash and pick the cherries, then

cut them in two and remove the stones. Put

them into a lined saucepan with the sugar,

lemon juice, and water, and stew them gently

until quite tender. Then strain the juice from

the cherries and measure it ; if not three gills,

make up the quantity with water. Return this

juice to the saucepan, and add to it the gelatine

cut in small pieces, and a little carmine. Stir

over the fire until the gelatine is quite dissolved.

Put the cherries into a border mould that has

been rinsed out with cold water, and strain the

liquid over them. Set aside until firm, then

turn out and pile whipped and flavoured cream

in the centre.

Note. - The stones of the cherries may be

broken, and the kernels blanched and added

to the mixture.

The gateau may be further decorated by

putting some fresh cherries and leaves of angehca

round the cream.

Cold Gooseberry Souffl6

Ingredients -

1 lb. Gooseberries. I A little Carmine or Cochi-

1 gill Custard. neal.

6 oz. Sugar. I

Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries and

wash them well. Put them into a lined stew-

pan with the sugar, and stew them until reduced

to a pulp, then rub them through a coarse sieve.

Put this fruit pur6e into a glass dish and pour

the custard over. WTiip up the whites of the

206

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

to a stiff froth, add sugar to taste, and

colour one half pink with a few drops of csarmine

or cochineal. Pile this on the top of the custard

and sprinkle \^-ith a little chopped pistachio nut

or pink sugar.

Orange Custard

(Fr. Creme Renversee a I'Orange)

Ingredients -

2 oz. Castor Sugar.

I oz. Gelatine.

1 table-spoonful AVater.

2 whites of Eggs.

4 yolks of Eggs.

i pint Milk.

2 large Oranges.

Method. - Sieve the sugar on to a plate, and

grate the rind from the oranges on the top of it.

Rub those two together with the fingers until

thorouglily blended, and then put this orange

sugar into a basin. Add to it the yolks and

whites of eggs, and beat together for a few

minutes. Heat the milk, and pour it gradually

into the basin, stirring all the time. Then

return all to the saucepan, and stir carefully

over the fire until the custard tliickens, but do

not let it boil. Remove quickly from the fire,

and strain into a basin. Dissolve the gelatine

in a very little water, and strain it into the

custard, also the orange juice. Stir occasionally

until lukewarm, then pour into a wetted mould,

and set in a cool place imtil firm. TWn out on

a glass or silver dish.

Note. - The mould may, if liked, be decorated

at the top with a little clear jelly set with a few

small sections of orange.

Raspberry Sponge

Ingredients -

Rind and juice of 1 Lemon.

1 oz. Sugar.

2 whites of Eggs.

1 gill of Water.

i oz. Gelatine.

4 or 6 table-spoonfuls Purde

from fresh Raspberries.

2 or 3 drops of Carmine.

Method. - Wipe the lemon, and peel off the

rind as thinly as possible. Put the rind into a

saucepan with the gelatine, sugar, and water,

and dissolve slowly over the fire. Then strain

into a basin, and cool slightly. Add the whites

of eggs, carmine, lemon juice, and raspberry

syrup or puree, and whisk all together until

thick and frothy. Pile up in a rocky manner on

a glass dish, and sprinkle with a little grated

oocoanut or chopped pistachio nuts.

Note. - Strawberry sponge may be made in

the same way, using strawberry instead of

raspberry pur6e.

Rhubarb Mould

Ingredients -

1 bunch of Rhubarb.

Gelatine.

Sugar.

Carmine or Cochineal.

Water.

1 gill Double Cream.

Method. - Wipe the rhubarb, but do not peel

it. Cut it into short lengths, and put into a

lined saucepan with enough water to cover it,

and sugar to taste. Stew slowly until the

rhubarb is reduced to a pulp, then strain througli

a fine strainer or hair sieve, pressing well with a

wooden spoon in order to obtain all the juice.

^Measure this juice, and retmn it to the sauce-

pan, adding French leaf gelatine in the pro-

portion of 1 oz. to each pint of liquid. Stir

carefully over the fire until the gelatine is dis-

solved ; add a few drops of carmine or cochi-

neal, and taste if sufficiently sweetened. When

slightly cooled, pour into a wetted mould and

set aside until firm. Then turn out and serve

with whipped and sweetened cream.

COMPOTES AND FRUIT SALADS

Compote of Apples

{Fr. Compote de Pommes)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Apples.

J lb. Loaf Sugar,

i pint Water.

The juice of J Lemon.

A few drops of Carmine

or Cochineal.

Method. - Put the sugar, water, and lemon juice

into a clean lined saucepan, and let them boil

quickly for ten minutes. Meanwhile peel the

apples, cut them in quarters, and remove the

cores. Throw the pieces into the boihng syiup,

and let them cook slowly until clear and tender,

but not broken. Then remove the quarters of

apple carefully, reduce the syrup a little, and

colour it pink with a few drops of carmine or

cochineal.

Arrange the apples on a glass dish and pour

the sjTup over.

Notes. - If the apples are small, they may be

cored and cooked whole.

A httle wine may, if liked, be added to the

syrup.

A little cream or custard served with the com-

pote is a great improvement.

Compote of Cherries

{Fr. Compote de Cerises)

Ingredients -

1 lb. Cherries. i Juice of 1 Lemon.

J lb. Sugar. I

Method. - Wipe the cherries carefully, and

separate them one from the other. Trim the

stalks \vnth a pair of scissors, leaving only

from an inch to an inch and a half on each.

Put the cherries into a lined saucepan with the

sugar, and strain in the lemon juice. Put the

lid on the pan and stew gently for ten minutes,

or until the cherries are cooked without being

broken. Lift them carefully on to a glass dish,

and pour back into the saucepan any juice which

may be round them. Boil this juice a few

minutes longer, and then pour it over the

cherries.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

207

2 table-spoonfuls Port Wine.

J pint Cold Water.

Juice of i Lemon.

2 or 3 Cloves.

Compote of Pears

(IV. Compote dљ Poires)

Ingredients -

IJ lb. Pears.

i lb. Loaf Sugar.

A few drops of Carmine.

1 inch Cinnamon Stick.

Metliod. - Put into a lined saucepan the sugar,

water, lemon juice, cloves, and cinnamon stick,

and allow these to boil for ten minutes. Peel

the pears, cut them in halves or quarters, ac-

cording to size, remove the cores, and stew them

slowly in the syrup until tender, from half to

one and a half hoixrs. When nearly ready,

add the wine and carmine.

Serve the pears in a glass or silver dish, allow

the syrup to cool slightly, and then strain it

over.

Compote of Strawberries

Pick the strawberries and pile them on to a

glass dish. ^lake a syrup. Put into a saucepan

I lb. of loaf sugar and i pint cold water ; let

this boil until reduced to half the quantity,

flavour with lemon juice, brandy, or Hqueur,

and colour pink with a few drops of carmine.

Allow the sjTup to cool slightly, then poxir it

over the strawberries. Keep the compote in a

cold place or on ice for one hour before using it,

and serve whipped cream separately.

Fruit Salads

{Fr. Salades de Fruits)

Almost any fruit may be employed in the

making of a salad, such as strawberries, rasp-

berries, white, red, o.- black currants, grapes,

oranges, bananas, pears, peaches, apricots, &c.

The fruits must all be di-y and perfectly ripe.

Hard or unripe morsels will spoil any salad.

The salad may be composed of several kinds

of fruit according to the season of the year,

or merely of one or two fruits. Sometimes a

small quantity of nuts, grated cocoanut, poiuided

almonds, or pounded walnuts is mixed with the

fruit.

Oranges should be skinned, every particle of

white pith removed from them, cut in slices, or

divaded in sections, and the pips taken out.

Plums peeled, cut in halves or quarters, and

stoned. Grapes cut in two and the seeds re-

moved. Bananas, apples, pears, peaches, &c.,

peeled and cut in small pieces or dice. All the

cutting of the fruit must be done with a silver

knife. A crystal salad bowl, or, failing that, a

deep compote dish is the best to use for the

purpose.

Pui-e white sugar and wine suited to the fruit

form the dressing. For 1 lb. of fruit allow

I lb. sugar and about \ pint wine. Tm-n the

fruit over occasionally after the fruit has been

added, that it may all be thoroughly satiu-ated.

The kird of wine to use for the dressing is

pretty much a matter of taste.

For a salad composed principally of hght-

coloured fruits, such as apricots, peaches, pine-

apple, pears, &c., use a light sweet wine such £is

Madeira or sherry.

For strawberries and raspberries claret or

port is preferable, while with oranges or bananas

a white wine should be used. A table-spoonful

of liqueur or brandy is an improvement to any

salad.

ICES

Our American cousins have always been

experts at the art of making ices of every kind

and variety. It may be said, indeed, that ice

in some form or other is never absent from the

American dinner-table, if it is only represented

by iced water, or some of those delicious iced

drinks for the concoction of which the Americans

are so famous.

Of late years the cult of the " ice " has become

somewhat pronounced in England also. No

dinner-party with any pretence to that name is

considered complete without an ice pudding or

ice-creams to give the finishing touch to the

menu, whilst yoimg people invited to join in

even the smallest of " small and early " dances

would feel distinctly aggrieved if the delectable

" ice-cream " failed to be included in the refresh-

ments provided.

When ordered from the caterers, however,

ices are apt to be somewhat expensive luxuries,

and for that reason, however festive the occa-

sion, they but seldom figure in the menu of

families where ways and means form an im-

portant consideration. There is no reason,

however, why people of the most slender means

shoiild have to restrict their menu in this

direction, for ices can be easily made at home,

and at a very small cost.

There are many inexpensive machines now on

the market, and quite a good practical one for

family use (2 quarts) can be bought for 8s. or 10s.

The working of the different machines varies

somewhat; with some a freezing mixture is used,

and with others a mixture of ice and coarse salt.

Fxill directions for use are issued with each

special make of freezer.

The accompanying diagram shows one of the

Freezing-Pail.

simplest forms of freezing machines, and ia

manufactured by Thomas Bradford & Co.,

High Holborn, London.

Before giving recipes for different kinds of

208

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

ices it will be as well to give a few general

directions for freezing.

First of all be most particular to have every

part of the freezer scrupulously clean, and then

see that it is properly charged witli ice and salt.

loe alone cannot produce a siifficient degree of

cold, therefore salt is used in the proportion

of one part salt to tliree parts ice. Tlie salt

should be broken up into small pieces about the

size of a marble. Tliis may be done by means of

&n ioe-pricker or with a large hat-pin. Pack the

Ice-Pricker.

sides of the pail with three inches of ice and one

inch of salt in alternate layers imtil within an

inch from the top of the pot, and keep pressing

the mixture down with an ico-spaddle or strong

wooden spoon in order to make it close and

compact. When ready, remove the hd from

Ice-Spaddle.

the pot, pour in the mixture to be frozen, and

re-cover quickly. The pot should not be more

than three parts full, and the greatest care must

be taken in opening and shutting that no salt

is allowed to enter, or the mixture would be

entirely spoilt. Now turn the handle at the

side of the machine with a slow and regular

motion until the mixture is sufficiently frozen.

Aa the freezing process proceeds the turning

of the handle will become gradually harder.

The dasher inside the pot is continually scraping

the frozen mixture from the sides and mixing it

thoroughly, so that there is no occasion to open

the can until the freezing is sufficiently advanced.

The time required for freezing will vary

somewhat according to the make of the machine

used and the kind of mixttire being frozen.

It is always better if an ice can be made some

time before it is required, as the flavour becomes

blended with standing. The pail must be kept

well packed and more ice and salt added as

required. The water, too, should be run off

from time to time by the hole to be found iu the

side of the pail.

Tf the iced mixture has to bo krpt some time

remove the dash-wheel from the pot and plug

up the hole in the lid with a cork. Pack up

with plenty of ice and salt, and cover the pail

with a piece of thick flannel or felt. The ice

will then remain in a frozen condition for

sceral hotirs, or even longer if more ice and

salt is added when required.

Water Ices

Water ices may bo divided into several

different classes according to whether they are

made with fruit juice, fruit pur6e, or liqueur

or perfume. The last-named are seldom used

alone, but generally aa an aecompaniment or

filUng to another ice. Tlie following recipes

will serve as a guide from which many other

varieties may be made.

In the making of all water ices a syrup of

sugar and water is required as below.

Syrup for Water Ices

Tlie juice of J a Lemon.

Pro port loTUi -

1 pint Water.

J lb. Loaf Sugar. |

Method. - Put the sugar and water into a

hned saucepan, bring to the boil and boil for ten

minutes, removing any scum that rises. Add

the lemon juice and strain through fine muslin.

Class I

Make with fruit juice and syrup.

Orange and Lemon Water Ice

{Fr. Glac^ de Citron et d'Orange)

Proportions -

i pint Orange Juice. i 1 pint Synip as above.

} pint Lemon Juice. I 2 whites of Eggs.

Method. - Pour the syrup while still hot over

the thinly peeled rind of two oranges and two

lemons. When cold add the fruit juice and

strain all through muslin. Put this mixture

into the freezing-pot, and when half frozen mix

in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Continue the freezing process until the ice is

svifficiently stiff for serving.

Note. - Either orange or lemon juice may be

used separately, but the above makes a nice

combination.

Red Currant Water Ice

{Fr. Glace de Groseilles)

Proportions -

1 pint Red Currant Juice. i 2 Whites of Eggs.

1 pint Syrup for Ices. I

Method. - Extract the juice from the red

currants in the same way as for red-currant jolly

(p. 230), and then procood in the same way as

for orange and lemon water ice.

Note. - Black Currant Water ice can be made

in the same way. A few drops of carmine

should be added.

Class II

Made with fruit pur6e and syrup.

Strawberry Water Ice

(Fr. Glace de Fraises)

Proportions -

1 pint Strawberry Pure6. ■ l"he Juice of 1 Lemon.

1 Pint Syrup for Ices. I A few drops of Carmine.

Method. - Prepare the ptir6e by rubbing some

fresh strawberries through a hair sieve (or

GUIDE TO COOKEKY

209

bottled strawberries may be used). Add the

lemon juice, and deepen the colour if necessary

by adding a few drops of liquid carmine. Freeze

as directed on p. 208.

Note. - The following ices can be made in the

same way by using the different purees of fruit :

apple, apricot, banana, pineapple, and raspberry.

With the more acid fruits the lemon juice must

be reduced in quantity or omitted altogether.

The harder fruits will reqiiire to be stewed before

the puree is made. A httle liqueur is sometimes

added.

Tutti-Frutti (Mixed Fruit Ice)

(Fr. Tutti-Frutti Glaces)

Proportions -

1 pint Xemon or Orange 1 J lb. Mixed Fruits.

Water Ice. ' 1 table-spoonful liqueur.

Method. - Take any kind of fruit, fresh, tinned,

or glace, and cut them up into dice. Sprinkle

them with some liqueur and then stir into half-

frozen water ice. Continue the freezing and

serve in small cups.

Class III

Made with syrup and either perfume, such as

orange flower water or rose water, or a liqueur

of some kind such as maraschino or noyeau.

Orange Flower Water Ice

{Fr. Glace k la Flem- d'Orange)

Proportions -

1 gill Orange Flower Water. I 2 drops Essence of Almond.

J pint Syrup for Ices. ,

Method. - The very best French make of

orange flower water must be used for this.

Mix all the ingredients together and freeze.

Cream Ices

Cream ices may also be divided into the

following different classes :^

Class I

Made with cream and custard with some

special flavour.

Vanilla Cream Ice

{Fr. Glace a la Creme de Vanille)

Proportions -

1 pint Double Cream. | Vanilla Pod or Essence.

1 pint Custard. j Sugar.

Method. - Make the custard according to

directions given on p. 146, flavour with vanilla

and sweeten to taste. Allow this to cool and

add the cream lightly whipped. Mix both to-

gether and freeze until of a proper consistency.

Note. - A cheaper ice may be made by using

a simple corn-flour custard and aiding less cream.

Chocolate Ice Cream

{Fr. Glace au Chocolat)

Proportions -

1 pint Custard.

1 pint Double Cream.

2 or 3 oz. Chocolate.

A little Water.

Vanilla.

Method. - Dissolve the chocolate in a little

water and add it to the custard. Flavour with

vanilla and then continue as in preceding

recipe.

Coffee or Tea Ice Cream

{Fr. Creme au The ou Creme au Cafe Glace)

Make in the same way eis vanilla ice cream,

making the custard with equal quantities of

strong tea or coffee and milk.

Walnut Ice Cream

Make in the same way as vanilla ice cream,

adding 6 oz. roasted and ground walnuts to

the custgird.

Ginger Ice Cream

{Fr. Glace a la Creme de Gingembre)

Add 6 oz. preserved ginger cut in small

pieces and a little of the syrup to the custard.

Lemon Cream Ice (Cheap)

{Fr. Glace a la Creme de Citron)

Proportions -

1 pint Custard. I 3 oz. Castor Sugar.

2 Lemons.

A little yellow colouring.

Method. - ^Grate the rind very lightly off the

two lemons, rub it into the castor sugar, and

use this for sweetening the custard. Add the

strained juice of one lemon and a little yellow

colouring. Mix well and freeze.

Orange Cream Ice

{Fr. Glace a la Creme d'Orange)

Make in same way as above, using the juice

of two oranges. Add one or two drops of car-

mine as well as the yellow to produce an orange

colouring.

Class II

Made with equal quantities of cream and pur^e

of fruit.

Apricot Ice Cream

{Fr. Glace a la Creme d'Abricots)

Proportions -

i pint Apricot Pur6e. I A squeeze of Lemon Jutce.

i pint Cream. 1 2 or 3 drops of Carmine.

Method. - Use tinned apricwts and rub sufficient

through a hair sieve to make \ pint. Some of

the syrup must be used along with the fruit, as

the ptu-^e should not be too thick. Mix the

cream lightly whipped with the pur^ and add

210

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the lemon juico and enough carmine to make

an apricot colour. Add also a little sugar if

necessary. Freeze as directed on p. 208.

Kote. - Sometimes a little liqueur is added

to this ice.

Strawberry or Raspberry Cream Ice

(Fr. Glace a la Cremc de Fraiscs ou de

Framboises)

Prepeu^ in the same way as above, adding

sugar to taste and enough carmine to make the

ice a pretty pink colour.

The following ices can also be made in the

same way : peach, pineapple, banana, pear, &c.

Note. - The ices in this class may be made

more cheaply by using partly custard and milk

instead of so much cream.

Cream Ices with Fruit Pur^e

Very delicious ices can be made by com-

bining an iced-cream mixture with some pviree

of fresh fruit. For instance, put some lemon

cream ice into some pretty glass cups, and

then a spoonful of raspberry pur^e, which has

been iced and flavoured with a little liqueur.

Pile a little whipped and iced cream on the

top and put the ices in an ice safe or on ice

until required. Or, again, a raspberry ice cream

may be used with a pur^e of raspberries or

strawberries, or a Walnut or coffee cream with

apricot or pineapple, and so on. These ices may

be varied according to individual taste and

the materials at hand.

Iced Coffee (White)

{Fr. Caf6 Frapp6)

Proportions -

1 pint strong Coffee. I i pint Cream.

2 or 3 oz. Sugar. |

Method. - The coffee used for this must be

first-rate in quality, freshly roasted and freshly

ground. It should be made rather stronger

than for ordinary use, and must be perfectly

clear. Mix the different ingredients together

and stand until cold. Then freeze until it can

be poured with difficulty. Keep on ice until

wanted. Half milk and half cream may be

used if the above proportions are too rich.

Iced Coffee (Black)

(Fr. Cafe Frappe)

Proportions -

1 pint strong clear Coffee. I 2 oz. Sugar.

1 table-spoonful Brandy. I

Method. - Mix the ingredients together in a

jug and set deep in ice until wanted. Before

serving add a lump of ice, and hand-whipped

and iced cream separately.

To Serve Ices

The simplest way of serving ices is to put

portions svifficient for one person in fancy paper

cases, in pretty glass cups, or on ice plates.

The top may be daintily decorated with a few

crystallised flower petals, such as rose-leaves,

violets, or orange blossom, or even a hght

sprinkling of chopped pistachio nut, but the

decoration must on no account be overdone.

Wafer biscuits should always be served with

ices.

To Mould Ices

If something more elaborate is wanted the

ice may be moulded and turned out in a shape.

The mixture in this case should not be frozen

too hard, or it will not mould prettily. Take

an ice pudding mould and let it be in cold

water some little time before it is required.

Then pack it tightly with the frozen mixture,

cover with a piece of wet white paper and put

on the lid. Seal round the join with a little

lard, which, when hard, will make the mould

perfectly water-tight. Imbed the mould in a

mixture of ice and salt and allow it to remain

from one to three hours.

If an ice safe is used the lard will not be

necessary ; in fact, the mixture might then be

put into any fancy pudding mould, which are

not so expensive as the proper ice moulds.

A mould of some simple pattern is best.

A little ice safe or refrigerator is not the

expensive article it used to be when £3 had to

be given for one of a very small sizo ; 32s. 6d.

will now buy one that is quite sufficient for all

ordinary purposes.

When iced puddings or other moulded ices are

frequently required an ice safe would be found

a great boon, and would simplify their manu-

facture to a great extent. Apart from ice-making,

too, they are most useful in hot weather for

keeping all viands cool and fresh.

To Un mould an Ice

If the mould has been buried in ice, scrape

off the lard and wipe the outside carefullv

Then remove the lid and dip the mould in

cold or slightly tepid water. Wipe i* dry and

invert it on a dish which has a pretty lace-

edged paper on it and draw the mould .-ilowly off.

If it does not come away at once, let it stand

for a minute or two. This unmoulding must

be done with care, and a little practice will

be required to do it nicely. If the outside is

allowed to become too soft some of the mixture

will run down on the dish, and the appearance

of the pudding will be altogether spoilt.

Iced Puddings

Almost any good ice mixture may be made

into a pudding, or a mixture of two or three

kinds may bo used together. A mixture of

fruits cut in small pieces is often added, and

liqueur of some kind is a favourite flavouring.

Wlien two kinds of cream are to be used in

the mould, set the mould on ice and line it

about an inch thick with the heavier of the two

GUIDE TO COOKERY

211

mixtures, and then fill up the centre with another

mixtui'e of a different flavour.

If a cream ice and water ice are being used

together, the cream mixture should be used to

line the mould and the water ice for filling the

centre. Then, again, if the mixtures are being

set in layers, the lightest should be put in first

and the most solid last, as there will then be a

firm foundation for the pudding to rest on when

it is tui'ned out.

Very pretty combinations may be made by

setting the iced mixture in a border mould and

filling the centre with fruit or whipped cream

when it is turned out. For instance, a pink

ice-cream with white whipped cream in the

centre and a few crystallised rose petals to

decorate it, or a lemon-coloured ice-cream

with small pieces of pineapple and whipped

cream in the centre and a decoration of maiden-

hair fern, or, again, a white cream with small

strawberries or raspberries in the centre flavoiu-ed

with a liqueur, and so on ; the variety is almost

endless and leaves room for individual taste

and ingenuity.

Small ices set in separate moulds are often

used as a decoration for larger puddings; they

are often made in the form of fruit or flowers.

A little colovxring is generally used to make

the resemblance more natiu-al. These little

moulds are, however, somewhat expensive,

and as they are not particularly easy to use

the amateur should scarcely attempt them,

as so many pretty dishes can bo made with

less trouble.

Sorbets

A sorbet is a half-frozen water ice, which is

served directly before the roast at a dinner.

It is also fashionable at present to serve a

delicately flavoured sorbet at an afternoon tea

or tennis party. Its preparation is quite simple

and may easily be imdertaken by the unpro-

fessed cook.

The foimdation of a sorbet is always a water

ice of some kind with the addition of one or

more kinds of liqueur and generally some

fruit. It should be served in pretty glass

cups.

Red Currant and Raspberry Sorbet

(Fr. Sorbet aux Groseilles et Framboises)

Proportions -

1 pint Red Currant Water I 1 gill Curagoa.

Ice. I A fevr ripe Raspberries.

Method. - Freeze the ice tmtil smooth, but

not too hard. Stir in the Curagoa and serve

garnished with raspberries which have been

sprinkled with sugar and placed on ice until

cold.

Lemon Sorbet

(Fr. Sorbet au Citron)

Proportions -

1 pint Lemon Water.

1 wine-glassful Maraschino.

1 wine-glassful Rum.

2 table-sp. Mixed Fruits.

Method. - Cut the fruit in small pieces and

marinade it in the liqueur and rum. Half

freeze the lemon water ice and stir in the

fruits, &c. ; freeze a little longer, but do not

make the mixture hard.

Note. - There are several other kinds of ices,

such as souffles, parfaits, mousses, mosco-

vites, &c., but as these are all more troublesome

to make, we feel that it is beyond the scope of

this book to enter into their manufacture.

BREAD, SCONES AND CAKES

PREPARATION OF MATERIALS

Flour. - Ordinary household flour should be

used in all the recipes except where otherwise

stated, as in the case of somi- of the very light

aakes, where Vienna or Hungarian flour is pre-

ferable. It is very important to have the flour

dry, as damp flour would render any cake

heavy. If there is any doubt about the dryness

it will bo safer to warm the floiu- in a cool oven

or on the rack abovo the stovo before weighing

and using it. Floiu- should be sieved for all

cakes, as this not only renders it lighter, but

keeps back any hard lumps it may contain.

For sievmg, use either a very fine wu-e sieve,

or a patent flour-sifter, which can be bought

for about Is. 8d.

Butter or Dripping.- Inferior or tainted butter

should never be used for cakes ; if butter is

used at all, it must be good. In cases where the

butter is rubbed into the flour, the butter should

be as cool and firm as possible ; where it is to

be creamed with the sugar it may be rather

softer, but not on any account oily. If the

butter is very salt it will be better to wash it

in cold water and dry it in a flom-ed cloth before

using. If the butter contains a large propor-

tion of water it should be dried and squeezed

in a floured cloth before using. For many of

tho plainer cakes good beef dripping may be

used instead of butter. Tlie dripping should

be clarified and free from any meat juice, and

any brown sediment should bo scraped from

the foot of it before using. For nursery cakes

212

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

beef dripping is always to bo recommended in

the place of butter.

Sugar. - Take castor or sLftod sugar for "dl

the recipes except where otherwise stated, and

always sieve it before use.

CMdled Peel. - Remove the hard sugar from

the inside, and ^vith a sharp knife shred the peel

very finely. The strip may be left any length

desired, but as candied peel at the best is an

indigestible article it should never be cut in

thick chunks. If the peel is too hard to shred

easily, it may be soaked for a few minutes

in boiling water.

Currants. - Rub these on the top of a sieve

with a little dry flour to clean them and remove

the stalks. Then drop them on a plate a few

at a time to make sure there are no stones

amongst them. If the currants are dii-ty they

may be washed first in hot water, then dried

in a cloth or a cool oven, and rolled in flovir.

This should be done some little time before

the cmrants are required, as they should be

quite dry and cold before being added to the

cake, otherwise they will spoil the mixture.

Sultana Raisins. - Rub these on the top of a

sieve with a little dry flour, and carefully remove

all stalks.

Valencia Raisins. - Remove the stalks, split

them open with a small knife, and take out the

stones, using a little warm water to prevent

them sticking to the fingers. These raisins are

usuallj' cut in small pieces or chopped roughly.

Almonds. - Blanch these by putting them in a

saucepan of cold water and bringing them to the

boil ; then strain and run some cold water

over them. Remove the brown skins and dry

the almonds in a cloth. They are usually shred

or chopped before being used, and it is better

to prepare them some little time before they are

required to ensure their being dry. For decora-

tive purposes they are sometimes split in halves

broadways.

Glac6 Fruits, such as cherries, apricots, ginger,

or pineapple, should have the hard sugar re-

moved from them first by soaking them for a

minute in hot water. Then dry the pieces

lightly, cut them to the size required, and roll

them in flour.

Note. - All fruit should be mixed with a little

dry flour (taken from the quantity given in the

recipe) before being added to the cake mixture.

EXPLANATION OF TERMS

To Beat Eggs (yolk and white together). - If

more than one egg is used, break them separately

first into a small cup or basin to make sure that

each one is fresh. Remove the tread, or the

hard speck in the egg, and mix them all together.

Then with a fork or egg whisk beat them lightly

with an upward motion imtil they are light and

frothy, and the whites and yolks thoroughly

mixed together. Do not over-beat the eggs or

they will not bo so light. Eggs used for cake-

making must be fresh, although not necessarily

now laid.

To Whip the Whites of Eggs. - When only one

or two are used put them on a flat dinner-plate,

being careful that not a particle of yolk gets in.

Add a pinch of salt, and ^^nth a broad-bladed

knife or spatula whip them with an upward

motion to a stif? dry froth, or until so firm that

when the plate is reversed they will not fall off.

^Vhen more than two whites are used put them

into a dry basin, add a pinch of salt, and beat

them with a wire whisk until stiff enough to

stand on the end of the wliisk without dropping.

The whites of eggs ought to be beaten in a cool

place, and if the eggs are fresh and cool, the

beating will only take a few minutes.

To Cream Yolks of Eggs and Sugar. - Sieve

the sugar into a basin, drop the yolks of eggs

on the top, and work the two together with a

wooden spoon or wire whisk until they are of a

pale lemon coloiu' and light and frothy-looking.

To Cream Butter and Sugar. - Sieve the sugar

into a basin, add the butter, and beat the two

together until of a light creamy consistency.

Either a large wooden spoon or the hand may

be used for this. If over half a pound of butter

is being used, it is quicker to take the hand.

If the butter is very hard, the basin may be

warmed slightly before commencing, but the

butter must on no account be oiled, or it will

make the cake heavy. Tliis process requires

some time, and unless it is well carried out the

cake will be hea\'y. The time will depend upon

the quantity of butter and sugar that are used.

To Clarify Butter. - Put the butter into a lined

saucepan, and bring it slowly to the boil. Let it

simmer for a few minutes, then draw the sauce-

pan to the side of the fire, and let it stand until

the butter has ceased to bubble. Tlien, with an

iron spoon, remove all the froth from the top,

and pour the clear oil into a dish ready for uso,

leaving the sediment at the foot of the saucepan.

To Rub Butter into Flour. - Sieve the flour into

a dry basin. Place the butter on the top of the

flour, cover it over, and break it in small pieces

Tlien rub together lightly with the tips of the

fingers and thumbs until as fine as breadcrumbs.

While rubbing, keep lifting the flour well up

in the basin, so that air may mix with it, and

the butter is not niade too soft. Unless this

operation is well carried out, the cake will look

streaky.

PREPARATION OF CAKE TINS

This shoiild be seen to before the mixing of

the cake is commenced, as some cakes will spoil

if the mixture is allowed to stand and wait

because the tins are not ready.

To Line a Round Cake Tin with Paper. - Cut

a double band of paper two or three inches deeper

than the cake tin and rather longer than the

GUIDE TO COOKERY

213

circumference. Fold up an inch of this band on

the double fold and make a mark. Open out

and make cuts along the marked-off inch of

the paper an inch or two apart. Ai'range this

band inside the cake tin, making the notched

part of the paper to Ue flat on the bottom of the

tin. Then cut a double round of paper exactly

the size to fit inside the tin, and lay it smoothly

on the foot. The paper must Ue perfectly flat :

there must be no wiinkles. If the tin used is

very large, three or four folds of paper may be

used. No grease is required ; it would only make

the cake more Uable to burn.

To Line a Flat Tin with Paper.- If the tin is

very shallow the paper will not require to be

shaped, but just pressed in smoothly and snipped

at the corners if necessary.

For Scones or Small Rock Cakes.- A flat baking-

sheet should be greased and sprinkled with

flour ; thpin knock the edges of the tin on the

table so that the flour coats it all lightly, and

then shake off any that is superfluous.

For Sponge Cakes. - Tie a double band of paper

round the outside of the tin and so as to project

two or three inches over the edge at the top.

Then coat the inside of the mould and the paper

with melted clarified butter. This should be

put on with a brush, and the butter should not

be too liquid or the coating is apt to be too thin.

Then pass tlxrough a sieve together one table-

spoonful of flour and one tablespoonful of castor

sugar, and dust over the inside of the mould and

paper with this mixture. Tm-n the mould round

and round until every part is coated, and then

empty out what does not adhere. It is this

preparation which gives the hght dry coating

to a sponge cake.

Small Cake Tins.- Prepare these in the same

way as a tin for a sponge cake by greasing them

with clarified butter and dusting them out with

a mixture of flour or potato flour and sugar.

If two ounces each of flour and sugar are

sieved together, the mixture may be kept in a

tin, and will always be in readiness for the

preparation of cake tins.

When tins are greased only clarified butter or

fresh butter must be used." Any salt in the

butter would be apt to make the cake stick to

the tin and burn. For the plainer cakes good

clarified dripping may be used,

THE BAKING OF CAKES

This is one of the most difficult parts of cake-

making. No matter how carefully the mixture

has been prepared, the success or failure of the

cake will very much depend upon the proper

regulation of the heat of the oven. This requires

very close observance, and it is only by experience

and careful watching that the capabilities and

faults of individual ovens can be learned.

There are one or two populai- tests which may

be applied by novices, such as the following :-

Sprinkle a httle dry flour on a tin and place it

in the oven. If there is sufficient heat to bake

a cake, this will be brown in about five minutes.

Or, put a piece of white paper in the oven, and

if at the end of five minutes it is a good yellow

colom-, the heat is moderate and suitable for

most cakes. Small thermometers can also be

bought to tell the heat of the oven, but as these

are somewhat fragile articles they are not always

satisfactory. Still, if used with care, they act

as a guide. The degrees of heat would be nearly

the following : -

From 350№-400' Fahr.

800'Fahr. .

250№-275' Fahr. .

~ a hot oven.

a moderate oven,

a slow oven.

After a very little experience the heat of the

oven can easily be discriminated by simply

feehng it with the hand.

It is very important that the fire should be

made up some httle time before the cake is to

be put in the oven, and in such a way that it

will last, if possible, during the baking, or will

not at least require fresh coal during the first

hour of baking, when the cake is in process of

rising, and when it is most essential for it to have

steady heat. If a large cake requiring several

hours' cooking is in the oven, the fire should

never be allowed to get too low, except perhaps

the last half -hour when the cake is just " soak-

ing," but a httle coal should be added from

time to time in order to keep up a uniform heat.

The heat of the oven can generally be regu-

lated by opening or shutting the damper. If

shutting the damper is not sufficient to reduce

the heat, the lid of the range over the oven may

be opened a little way. If the oven does not

get hot enough in spite of a good fire, the trouble

probably is that it has not been properly cleaned

of the cinders and soot wliich collect underneath

and above the oven, and prevent the heat

reaching these parts. This is a point which

should be attended to before cake -making is

thought of.

For all cakes, except where otherwise stated,

a moderate oven is best ; if anything, it should

be rather hotter for small and light cakes than

for the thicker fruit cakes.

A cake to be baked to perfection should rise

evenly and be smooth on the top, and by the

time it has been in the oven half its time a hght

brown crust should be formed. Owing to the

variation in the heat of an ordinary oven, it is

not always possible to arrive at this point of

perfection ; still, by careful manipulation, it

may be aimed at. \Vlien a cake rises in a cone

in the centre, it shows that the oven has been

too hot at the commencement, with the result

that the sides of the cake became hardened with

a crust before the mixture had had time to rise.

If the cake seems inclined to rise at one side, it

shows that the oven is hotter on one side than

the other, and this fault may be obviated to a

214

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

certain extent by turning the cake carefully

diu-ing the baking. If tlie bottom of the oven

is found to be the hottest part, it is a good plan

to place an asbestos mat below the cake to

prevent it burning at the foot, or stand the

cake in another tin containing a bod of sand.

Wlien a cake shows signs of becoming suffi-

ciently brown before it is ready, it should be

covered with a double fold of kitchen paper.

The oven door should not be opened for at

least five minutes after the cake has been put

in, and then onlj' with the greatest care. If

by slamming the oven door a draught of cold

air is allowed to enter, it will be fatal to the

successful rising of the cake. Any moving or

turning of the cake must be done very cautiously ;

it cannot have too careful handling. Moving or

shaking the cake during the process of rising is

almost sure to cause it to fall.

Be sure the cake is sufficiently cooked before

removing it from the oven. Small cakes £ire

ready if they feel firm when gently touched with

the finger. Larger cakes should be tested by

running a bright and heated skewer into the

csentre of them. If the skewer comes out sticky

the cake is not cooked enough, but if it is dry

and undimmed the baking is finished. A cold

knife should never be run into a cake, as it would

make it " sad." Cakes should be allowed to

stand for a minute or two before removing them

from the tin ; they will then come out more

easily. (For baking in gas oven, see p. 96.)

The time given for baking in the following

recipes is only approximate ; it is impossible

to lay down any hard-and-fast niles, as the time

is bound to vary shghtly owing to various causes.

Baking Powder

Ingredients -

3 oz. Cream of Tartar. • 3 oz. Ground Rice.

3 oz. Carbonate of Soda. 1

Method. - Pass all these ingredients twice

through a fine wire sieve. Then put the mixture

in a dry tin and store in a dry place.

BREAD AND SCONES

Household Bread

Ingredients -

3J lbs. Flour (a quarter

Stone).

1 oz. German Yeast.

1 t"a-apoonful Sugar.

2 tea-spoonfuls Salt.

About 2 pints lukewarm

Water.

Method - Sieve the flour and salt into a large

basin, and place it in a cool oven, or some other

warm place, to get warmed tlirough, as tiiis will

assist the rising of the broad. Put the yeast

into a smaller basin with the sugar, and mix

these two together until they become smooth

and liquid. (This is called creaming the yeast,

and may lie accomplished with either salt or

sugar.) Add half the water to the creamed

yeast, and mix well together. Make a well

in the centre of the warm floui*, and strain in

the milk and water. Stir in gi-adually from the

sides enough flour to form a thick and smooth

batter, still lea\'ing a wall of flour round the

edges. Cover the basin with a cloth, and set

it in a warm place until the sponge (mixture of

flour, yeast, and water) is well risen. If the

yeast is good, fifteen or twenty minutes will be

sufficient ; the batter should then be covered

with large bubbles. Mix in the rest of the flour

by degrees, adding the rest of the lukewarm

water, or enough to form rather a soft dough, as

it will become firmer with kneading. Turn the

dough on to a floured board, and knead well for

fifteen minutes, or until it ceases to cling to the

hands. Then flour the basin, and put the

dough back into it, making a deep cross cut on

the top from side to side %vith a sharp knife.

Cover the basin, and let it stand in a warm place

again for about one hour, or until the dough is

well risen. It should be about twice its original

size, and the cut on the top almost invisible.

Turn out again on the board, re-knead hghtly,

and make up into loaves the size and shape

desired. For a cottage loaf make one large

ball with a smaller one on the top. Press a

floured finger tlirough the middle of both, and

make four or five cuts at regular intervals round

the sides. For a Cobiu-g loaf form the dough

into an oval shape, and make several deep cuts

across the top. If the loaves are to be baked

in tins, grease the tins first, and do not moro

than half fill them. After shaping the loaves,

place them on a baking-sheet (greased and

floui-ed for the loaves that are not in tins),

and set them to prove for fifteen or twenty

minutes. That is, place them again in a .varm

place to rise - on the rack above the fire is a

very good place. The bread should be covered

with a cloth or piece of paper, to prevent any

smuts from falling on it. To bake the bread,

place it in a hot oven to begin with until the

loaves are well risen and slightly browned, then

in a moro moderate oven until they are cooked

through to the middle. The time will depend

upon the size of the loaf. When ready, the

bread should give a hollow sound when tapped

on the bottoin.

Ingredients -

1| lb. Brown .Meal.

3 giUs Tepid Water.

Brown Bread

2 tea-spoonfuls Salt.

I oz. Yeast.

Method. - Either fine, coarse, or medium

whole-meal may be used, or half quantity

whole-meal and the other half household flour.

Put this into a basin and make a well in the

centre. Mix the yeast with the salt, add the

tepid water and pour into the middle of the

meal. Mix the meal in gradually, making a

smooth but rather soft dough - more water must

GUIDE TO COOKERY

215

be added if required. Knead for a few minutes,

and then put in greased and floured tins. Allow

the dough to rise in a warm place for ono hour

or longer, then bake in a moderate oven.

Ingredients -

1 lb. Vienna Flour.

1 tea-spoonful Sugar.

I oz. German Yeast.

Vienna Bread

1 oz. Butter.

MUk.

1 tea-spoonful Salt.

Method. - Sieve the flom- and salt into a warm

basin, rub in the butter until free from Itunps,

and make a well in the centre. Cream the yeast

in a smaller basin with the sugar, heat the milk

to a lukewarm temperature, and pour it on to it.

Strain this into the middle of the flour, and

mix lightly. Beat all together for a few minutes,

then cover the basin, and put the dough to rise

for about two hours. When the dough is well

risen, turn li out on a floured board, and make

it up into small rolls or a variety of fancy shapes.

One of the prettiest shapes is the horseshoe

twist, which is made as follows : Roll out some

of the dough to about a quarter of an inch in

thickness, and cut it into triangular-shaped

pieces. Then take the two corners at the base

of the triangle, and roll up each piece so that

the other point turns over on the outside.

Another shape is to make small round rolls, and

then to cut two slits across the top with a very

sharp knife. Place the rolls on a greased and

floured tin, and set them in a warm place to

prove for about twelve minutes. Then bake

in a rather quick oven from fifteen to twenty

minutes, according to the size of the rolls.

Just before removing the rolls from the oven,

brush them over with milk, or egg and milk,

to make them shiny.

Note. - Sometimes an egg is added to the above

dough.

Ingredienta-

i lb, Flour.

lEgg.

1 oz. Butter.

Cream Scones

1 gill Sour Cream.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A pinch of Salt.

Method. - Sieve the riovu-, salt, and baking

powder into a basin, and rub in the butter with

the tips of the fingers until free from lumps.

Then make a well in the centre, and pour in

the egg and cream beaten together. Mix from

the centre outwards, gathering in the flour

gradually until all is formed into one lump.

Turn out the dough on a floured board, and

knead lightly until free from cracks. Roll out

to about half an inch in thickness, cut in rounds,

and bake on a greased tin in the oven from ten

to fifteen minutes, or on a greased girdle. If

the latter, brown the scones, first on one side

and then on the other, until they ai-e cooked

through.

Crumpets

lEgg.

Milk.

1 oz. Butter.

Ingredients -

J lb. Vienna Flour.

j tea-spoonful Salt.

I oz. Baking Powder.

Method. - Sieve the flour, salt, and baking

powder into a basin, and make a well in the

centre. Add the butter melted and the egg well

beaten, then gradually enough milk to make a

thinnish batter. Grease some mxiffln rings, and

lay them on a hot and greased girdle. Pour a

little batter into each, and watch until air-

bubbles begin to rise. Then remove the rings,

ttirn the crumpets, and brown on the second sidw.

Repeat this imtil all are finished. Toast the

cnmipets lightly, spread them with butter, and

pile them one on the top of the other. Cut

in four, and serve hot.

Dropped Scones

Ingredients -

1 breakfastcupful Flour.

1 table-sp. Castor Sugar.

i tea-spoonful Cream of

Tartar.

i tea-spoonlul Carbonate of

Soda.

lEgg.

J breakfastcupful Milk.

Method. - Sieve all the dry ingredients into a

basin, and make a well in the centre. Add the

egg well beaten, and then the milk gradually,

beating aU well together with the back of a

wooden spoon. When the batter looks light

and full of air-bubbles pour it into a jug. Heat

a girdle and grease it well. Pour the batter

on to it, about a table-spoonful at a time, being

careful to keep the scones a nice shape and

a little distance apart. When the top surface

looks covered with bubbles, sUp a broad-bladed

knife under the scones and turn them over.

When both sides are nicely browned the scones

are ready. They should be served quickly

and hot buttered.

Elcho Scones

Ingredients -

} lb. Flour. I Egg.

2 oz. Butter. A pinch of Salt.

J tea-sp. Cream of Tartar. Some Buttermilk or Sour

J tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda. Milk.

Method. - Sieve the flour, soda, cream of tartar,

and salt into a clean, dry basin, and rub in the

butter with the tips of the fingers until free

from lumps. Tlien make a well in the centre,

add the egg, well beaten, and enough biittermilk

to form all into one Ivunp. The mixing should

be done very quickly and lightly with the hand

or with a broad-bladed knife. Turn the dough

on to a slightly floured board, and knead lightly

with the hands until free from cracks. Form

into a round (do not roll) about one inch in

thickness, and place the scone on a greased

and floured baking-tin. Prick all over with a

fork, and mark in four with the back of a knife.

216

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Bake in a good oven about twenty minutes.

Two or tlireo minutes before removing the scone

from the oven break it in four, and brush it

over with a little milk or egg and milk.

Tea Cakes

Ingredients -

J lb. Flour. 1 Ejrg.

i oz. Oerman Yeast. } pint Milk.

2 oz. Butter. A pinch of Salt

1 tea-Bpoonful Su^rar.

Method. - Sieve the flour and salt into a warm

basin, and make a well in the centre. Put the

yeast into a smaller basin with the sugar, and

mix them together until smooth and creamy.

I^Ielt the butter in a smaU saucepan, and add the

milk. When lukewarm, pour on to the yeast

and mix well. Strain this into the centre of the

flour, and add the egg well beaten. Mix from

the centre outwards, and then beat with the

hands for a few minutes. Cover the basin with

a cloth, and allow the dough to rise in a warm

place from three-quarters to one hour. Turn

out the dough on to a slightly floured board,

and knead lightly with the hands until smooth

and free from cracks. Form into two or three

round cakes, and place them on a greased and

floured tin. Set the cakes again to rise on the

rack above the fire for ten or fifteen minutes,

imtil they look light and puffy. Tlien bake

them in a good oven from fifteen to twenty

minutes. A few minutes before removing the

cakes from the oven, brush them over with sugar

and milk to give them a gloss. These cakes

should be spht and buttered hot.

A few currants or some very finely chopped

candied peel may be added to the mixture if

wished.

Wheaten Meal Scones

Ingredients -

J lb. NMieaten Meal.

i lb. Flour.

J tea-sp. Cream of Tartar.

1 or 2 oz. Butter.

f tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda.

J tea-spoonful Salt.

Some Buttermilk or Sour

Milk.

Method. - Make in the same way as Elcho

Scones (p. 215).

BUNS AND SMALL CAKES

Almond Rock Cakes

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour.

2 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Sugar.

2 oz. Sweet Alraonda.

A pinch of Salt.

2 or 3 drops of Essence of

Almonds.

lEgg.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A little Milk.

Method. - First blanch and chop the almonds

finely, and put them to dry, but not brown, on

a tin in the oven. Then sieve the flour, sugar,

and baking powder into a basin, and rub in the

butter until free from lumps. Add the prepared

almonds, and make a well in the centre of the

dry ingredients. Add the egg well beaten, the

flavouring, and enough sweet milk to bind all

together. The mixture must be kept stiff enough

for the spoon to stand upriglit in it. Have ready

a baking-tin, greased and sprinkled with flour,

and arrange the mixture on it in small heaps

(one tea-spoonful of the mixture in each) and at

some little distance apart. Sprinkle the cakes

with sugar or with ground almonds and sug£u:

mixed, and bake in a quick oven from ten to

fifteen minutes.

Note. - Cocoanut or Currant Rock Cakes can be

made in the same way, using 2 oz. desiccated

cocoanut or 2 oz. cleaned currants instead of the

almonds.

Ingredients -

J lb. Butter,

i lb. Castor Sugar.

} lb. Sweet Almonds.

7 oz. Flour.

Almond Slices

i teasp. Baking Powder.

3 Eggs.

A few drops of Essence of

Almouds.

Method. - Cream the butter and sugar. Dry

and sieve the flour, and add it by degrees with

the eggs. Then boat for ten minutes until the

mixture looks light and full of air-bubbles.

Add most of the almonds, blanched and finely

slired, the baking powder, and flavouring, and

pom- out on a shallow tin that has been lined

with paper. Sprinkle the remainder of the

almonds on the top, and bake in a moderate oven

for twenty minutes. Wlien the cake is nicely

browned and feels firm to the touch, turn it

out on a sheet of sugared paper, and, when cold,

cut it in neat slices with a very sharp knife.

Chocolate Cakes

Ingredients -

4 oz. Cliocolate.

3 oz. Butter.

4 oz. Castor Sugar.

3 Egga.

3 OZ. Flour.

{ tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Method. - Grate the chocolate and place it in

a jar in the oven or in a saucepan of hot water,

allowing it to melt slowly. Cream the butter

and sugar, then add the yolks of eggs and

chocolate, and beat for a few rainutop. Whip

the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and sieve

the flour with the baking powder. Add a little

flour and a little white of egg alternately to the

other mixture until all is lightly blended together.

Half fill small prepared tins (p. 213) with the

mixture, and bake in a moderate oven about

fifteen minutos.

Coburg Cakes

Ingredients-

i lb. Flour.

i tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda.

} lb. Sjrrup.

2 Eggs.

J lb. Sugar.

1 tea-sp. Ground Ginger,

J tea-sp. Ground Cinnamon.

J tea-sp. Allspice.

IJ oz. Butter.

A few Sweet Almonds.

Method. - Sieve all the dry ingredients except

the almonds into a basin, and make a well in

GUIDE TO COOKERY

217

the centre. Melt the butter and syrup in a

small saucepan, and pour them into the middle

of the dry ingredients. Add the eggs well

beaten, and mix all together. Have ready

some small patty tins well greased, and with a

half -blanched almond at the foot of each. Half

fill the tins with the mixture, and bake them in

a moderate oven tliree-quarters of an hour.

3 Eggs.

J tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A few drops of Vanilla.

Cocoanut Slices

Ingredients -

3 oz. Butter.

3 oz. Castor Sugar.

3 oz. Desiccated Cocoanut.

2 oz. Flour.

Icing- i lb. Icing Sugar, the juice of half a Lemon, and a

little Water.

Decorations- 1 oz. Cocoanut and a few Pistachio Nuts.

Method. - Cream the butter and sugar, then

add the eggs and flour by degrees, beating well.

When the mixture looks hght and full of air-

bubbles, add the cocoanut, vanilla, and baking

powder, and mix these in. Pour the mixture

into a shallow tin that has been lined with paper,

and bake in a moderate oven until hghtly

browned and cooked through ; from fifteen to

twenty minutes should be sufficient. When the

cake is ready, turn it out on to a sheet of sugared

paper and allow it to cool.

Tlien prepare the icing. Sieve the sugar and

put it into a small lined saucepan. Strain in

the lemon juice and warm slightly over the fire,

adding a Httle water if necessary. Care must be

taken not to make the icing too liquid, but just

sufficiently so to pour over the cake. Coat the

cake nicely with the ^"ing by means of a spoon,

and sprinkle with the one ounce of cocoanut and

a few chopped pistacliio nuts. Cut in neat

slices whilst the icing is still soft.

Crullers

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A pinch of Kutmeg.

The grated rind of half

Lemon.

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour.

2 oz. Butter.

1 oz. Sugar.

2 Eggs.

Method. - Sieve the dry ingredients into a

basin, and rub in the butter. Add the grated

lemon rind or any other flavouring preferred,

and bind the mixture with two eggs well beaten.

Turn the dough on to a floured board, and work

with the hands until free from cracks. Roll out

to about half an inch in thickness, and cut into

fancy shapes, or make into twists. Have ready

on the fire a saucepan of boiling fat, drop the

erullors into this, a few at a time, and cook

slowly from ten to twelve minutes until they

are a nice brown colour, and have swelled to

double their original size. When the crullers

are ready, lift them out of the fat with a per-

forated spoon, drain them on kitchen paper, and

dredge w^U with sugar. These should be used

while fresh.

Dough Nuts

Ingredients -

J lb. Flour. 1 Egg.

2 oz. Butter. A little Milk.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder. Some Jam.

1 oz. Castor Sugar.

Method. - Prepare the mixture in the same

way as for crullers recipe. Turn out on a

floured board, and roll out to a quarter of an

inch in thickness. Stamp out rounds with a

cutter about three inches in diameter. Put a

small tea-spoonful of red jam in the centre of

haK of these, and brush over the others with

beaten egg. Place two together, one with jam

and the other without, and press the edges well

where they join. Fry as in last recipe.

Genoise Pastry

Ingredients -

6 oz. Flour (Vienna). I 7 Eggs.

C oz. Butter. A few drops of Flavouring.

8 oz. Castor Sugar. |

Method. - First clarify the butter (see p. 212),

and pour into a basin ready for use. Sieve the

flour and put it into a warm place to get thoroughly

dry. Break the eggs into a large basin and sieve

the sugar over them. Stand this basin over a

saucepan of hot water and beat well with a wire

whisk from fifteen to twenty minutes, or until

the mixture looks hght and frothy. The water

in the saucepan underneath ought to be kept

slowly simmering. When ready, remove the

basin to the table and continue the beating a few

minutes longer. Stir in the flour and butter

very hghtly, a little at a time, and do not mix

more than is necessary. Add a few drops of

any flavouring that is liked. Pour the mixture

out on a shallow tin fined with paper, but not

greased. The shape of the tin must depend

upon what the pastry is to be used for. Bake

in a quick oven for about twenty minutes until

lightly browned and firm to the touch. When

ready, turn out on a sheet of sugared paper and

place on a wire stand to cool.

Brown Genoise Pastry. - Melt 2 oz. of un-

sweetened chocolate in a table -spoonful of water

and add it to the above mixtures before beating

up the eggs.

Pink Genoise Pastry. - Add a few drops of

carmine to the above mixtures just before baking.

Note. - Genoise pastry is used for various

kinds of fancy cakes. (For Icing and Decoration,

see p. 227.)

Girdle Cakes

Make some pastry (flaky or rough puff will

do) and roll it out to a quai-ter of an inch in

tliickness. Cut out into squares or oblong-

shaped pieces, and place these on a hot girdle.

Brown first on the one side and then on the

other until the pastry is thoroughly cooked.

Then spUt, butter, and serve hot.

218

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Note. - A few currants may bo rolled into the

pastrj' before cooking.

Ginger Cakes (Small)

A few drops of Ginger

Essence.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

1 oz. candied Lemon Peel.

Ingredients-

4 ot Flour.

4 oz. Butter.

4 oz. Sugar.

i tea-sp. Ground Ginger.

2 Eggs.

Method. - Cream the butter and sugar together,

and add to tlieiu the ground ginger, essence of

ginger, amd the lemon peel chopped finely.

Tlien add one egg and half the flour and beat

well, then the other egg and the remainder of

the flour and beat again. Wlien the mixture

is liglit and frothy-looking mix in the baking

powder, and lialf fill small tins that have been

greased and dusted out with flour and sugar

(see p. 213). Place the tins on a baking-sheet,

and bake the cakes in a moderate oven from

fifteen to twenty minutes, or until they feel

firm to the touch.

Ingredients -

1 lb. Honey.

J lb. Butter.

1 lb. Flour.

A pinch of Salt.

Honey Cakes

J lb. Ground Almonds.

A pinch of Ground Cloves.

Grated Rind of half a Lemon.

i oz. Carbonate of Soda.

Method. - Sieve the flour, salt, carbonate of

soda, and ground cloves into a basin, add the

almonds and grated lemon rind, and make a

well in the centre. Melt the butter and honey

in a lined saucepan, and pour them into the

centre of the diry ingredients. Mix together

until all is thoroughly blended, then cover the

basin and allow the mixture to stand all night.

Nex-t day sprinkle the paste with a little flour

and turn it out on a baking-board. Flour a

rolUng-pin and roll out the paste to half an inch

in thickness. Cut in small square pieces or

round cakes, and place them on a greased and

floured tin. Brush over the top of the cake

with slightly beaten white of egg, and sprinkle

with some chopped almonds. Bake in a

moderate oven about fifteen minutes, or until

the cakes feel firm to the touch and are of a pale

brown colour.

Ingredients -

4 oz. Flour.

4 oz. Butter.

4 oz. Sugar.

A pinch of Salt.

Queen Cakes

j tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A little grated Lemon Rind.

A few Currants.

Method. - Grea.se nine or ton small tins, and

dust them out with flour and sugar mixed {aae

p. 2 1 3). Place a few cleaned currants at the foot

of each, and then proceed to make the mixture.

Cream the butter and sugar together in a ba.sia,

and add the salt and grated lemon rind. Sieve

the flour, and add half of it to the ci-eamed

butter and sugar with one of the eggs. Mix

slowly, and then boat well for a few minutes.

Add the second egg and the remainder of the

flour, and beat again. Sprinkle in the baking

powder at the last, and half fiU the prepared

tins with the mixture. Bake the cakes in a

moderate oven from fifteen to twenty minutes,

and, when ready, allow them to cool on a sieve

or wire stand.

Ingredients -

2 oz. Ground Rice.

3 oz. Flour.

3 oz. Sugar.

2 oz. Butter.

Rice Buns

2 Eggs.

J tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A little Flavouring.

Method. - Make in the same way as Queen

Cakes.

Note. - This mixtxire may, if liked, be made in

one large cake. It will take about one hour

to bake.

Walnut Buns

Ingredients -

2 oz. Flour.

1 oz. Rice-flour.

3 oz. Castor Sugar

3 oz. Butter.

3 oz. shelled Walnuts.

2 Eggs.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

1 table-spoonful Cream.

i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Some Red Currant Jelly.

Method. - Cream the butter and sugar. Toast

the walnuts for a few minutes in a moderate

oven, then pound or chop them rather finely.

Reserve one table -spoonful of these, and add

the rest to the creamed butter and sugar with

one egg and the rice-flour. ]\Iix well for a few

minutes, then add the other egg, flour, cream,

nutmeg, and baking powder. Beat well for a

few minutes longer, and half fill small tins

which have been greased and dusted out with

equal parts of flour and castor sugar mixed.

Bake in a good oven about fifteen minutes.

Turn out and cool slightly. Then coat the

top of the buns with red currant jelly and sp^mkle

them with the remainder of the walnuts.

PLAIN AND FANCY BISCUITS FOR

DESSERT AND AFTERNOON TEA

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour.

I lb. Rice-flour.

} lb. Butter.

Ayrshire Shortbread

4 oz. Castor Sugar.

1 Egg.

1 or 2 table-spoonf ok Cream.

Method. - Sieve the two kinds of flour into a

basin, and rub the butter into them. Sieve in

the sugar, and add the flavouring. Beat up the

egg in a small basin, and add a little cream to

it ; pour this into the centre of the dry in-

gredients, and mix all into a paste with the hand,

using more cream if necessary. Turn out on a

floured board, and knead lightly until free from

GUIDE TO COOKEKY

219

cracks. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll out the

paste to about f inch in thickness. Stamp

it out in small rounds with a cutter, and place

the biscuits on a greased and floured tin. Roll

the scraps again, and cut out more biscuits until

all is used, then bake the biscuits in a moderate

oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Sprinkle

them well with sugar while they are still hot,

and lift them on to a sieve or wire stand to cool.

Note. - These biscuits will keep crisp if placed

in a tin box with paper.

Bachelors' Buttons

Ingredients -

5 oz. Flour. I 1 Egg.

3 oz. Castor Sugar. A little Flavouring.

2 oz. Butter. I

Method. - Cream the butter and sugar together,

and add a Mttle flavouring. Beat the egg, and

add it gradually with the flour until a stiffish

paste is formed. Do not add all the egg unless

necessary. Take small portions of the mixture

and roll them into balls the size of a hazel nut,

using a little flour to prevent them sticking to

the hands. Place them on a greased and floured

tin, and when all are ready sprinkle them with

sugar. Bake in a good oven about twelve

minutes or until the biscuits are Mghtly browned,

then hft them on to a sieve to cool.

Cheese Straws

Ingredients -

3 oz. Flour.

2 oz. Butter.

2 oz. grated

Cheese.

Parmesan

J yolk of Egg.

A pinch of Cayenne.

A pinch of Salt.

A little Water.

Method. - Rub the butter lightly into the

flour. Add the grated cheese and seasoning,

and mix into a paste with half the yolk of an

egg beaten with a Uttle water. Make the pastry

rathor stiff, and work with the hands until free

from cracks. Then roll it out on a floured board

into a strip about four inches wide. Trim

evenly at the edges, and cut most of the pastry

into straws about quarter an inch wide. Place

these on a greased tin, and out of the remainder

of the pastry cut six or eight rings. Bake all

together in a good oven for about ten minutes.

Watch them most carefully, as they bvu-n very

quicldy. Serve them with a bundle of straws

placed in each ring.

Ingredients-

i lb. Flour.

} lb. Castor Sugar.

1 yolk of Egg.

Cinnamon Biscuits

1 tea-sp. Ground Ginger.

Milk if necessary,

i lb. Butter.

Method. - Sieve all the di-y ingredients into

a basin and rub in the butter with the tips of

the fingers until free from lumps. Then bind

together with the yolk of an egg, and a little

milk if necessary. The dough must not be made

too soft, but of the consistency of pastry.

Knead with the hand until free from cracks, and

turn out on a slightly floured board. Flour a

rolling-pin and roll out the dough to one-eighth

of an inch in thickness. Finish in the same way

as Ayrshire Shortbread (p. 218).

Cinnamon Macaroons

Ingredients -

J lb. Ground Almonds. i * tea-spoonful Ground Cin-

i lb. Icing Sugar. namon.

1 oz. Flour. I Some White of Egg.

Icing- 3 table-spoonfuls Icing Sugar, 1 tea-spoonful

Flour, White of Egg.

Method. - Sieve the flour, icing sugar, and

cinnamon on to the baking-board, and mix with

the ground almonds. Then add gradually

enough wliite of egg to form a very stiff paste.

Work with the hands until perfectly smooth and

elastic, and form into a long roll quite free from

cracks. Flour the rolling-pin and press out

the roll into an even strip, keeping it perfectly

straight at the edges so as to avoid any waste.

Then prepare the icing. Mix the floiir and icing

sugar together, and bind with a very little white

of egg. Spread tliis smoothly over the almond

paste with a wetted knife, and then cut in neat

fingers. Place these on a greased and floured

tin, and bake in a moderate oven until a light

brown colour, and firm and crisp to the touch.

Cocoanut Biscuits

Ingredients -

2 oz. Desiccated Cocoanut. i 1 white of Egg.

2 oz. Castor Sugar. Wafer Taper.

1 tea-spoonful Flour. I

Method. - Chop the cocoanut a little more

finely if necessary, and mix it in a basin with

the other dry ingredients. Whip the white of

egg to a stiff froth, and bind all together mth

this. Put small squares of wafer paper on a dry

baking-tin, arrange a tea-spoonful of the mixtiu-e

on each, and bake in a slow oven for half-an-

hour, or until the biscuits are firm and of a pale

brown colour. Cool them on a sieve, breaking

off the wafer paper which projects beyond the

These biscuits should be kept in paper in an

air-tight tin box.

Ginger Biscuits

Ingredients -

i lb. Flour. J lb. Butter.

4 oz. Castor Sugar. 1 oz. Ground Ginger.

A little Sherry.

Method. - Sieve the flour, sugar, and ginger

into a basin, and rub in the butter until free

from lumps. Tlien form into a stiff paste with

sherry, turn on to a floured board, and Icnead

with the hands until free from ci'acks. Flour a

rolling-pin, and roll the paste out very thinly.

220

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Cut it into small round or fancy-shaped pieces

with a cutter, lay them on a greased tin, and

bake in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen

minutes.

Macaroons

Ingredients -

i lb. Ground Almonds.

i lb. C"8tor Sugar.

3 or 4 ^^^ute8 of Eggs.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Wafer Paper.

Method. - Put the almonds and sugar into a

basin, and add tlie lemon juice and the white

of eggs very gradually, beating well with a

wooden spoon or spatula. Beat thoroughly and

make the mixture just moist enough to drop

from a spoon. Put it into a forcing-bag with a

plain pipe at the end, and force out small por-

tions on rounds or squares of wafer paper.

This quantity should make twelve. Dust over

with icing sugar, which will make the macaroons

crack on the top, and place a half -blanched and

split almond on the top of each. Bake in a

very moderate oven until nicely browned, dry,

and well risen. Lift on to a sieve to cool, and

break off any scraps of wafer paper that extend

beyond the edges.

Milk Biscuits

Ingredients -

} lb. Flour.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A pinch of Salt.

1 gill of MUk.

1 oz. Butter.

Method. - Sieve the flour, salt, and baking

powder into a basin, and make a well in the

centre. Melt the butter in a small saucepan,

add the milk, and make it just lukewarm.

Pour this into the centre of the flour and mix

all together. Flour a baking-bo£ird, tiu-n the

paste on to it, and knead with the hands until

free from cracks. Then roll out as thin as

possible, and prick all over vinth a fork or biscuit-

pricker. Stamp out in rounds with a cutter

about three inches in diameter, place the biscuits

on a greased tin, and bake them in a moderate

oven for about twenty minutes. The oven

must not be too hot, but regular. When the

biscuits are reawly, remove them from the tins

and put them on a sieve or wire stand to cool.

Norwegian Biscuits

Ingredients -

4 oz. >lour.

4 oz. KIce-flour.

1 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Castor Sugar.

2 table-spoonfuls Cream.

1 oz. Ground Almonds.

Method. - Make in the same way as Ayrshire

Shortbread (p. 218), sprinkling the ground

almonds over the biscuits before bakine.

Oatmeal Biscuits

Ingredients -

3 oz. Flour.

3 oz. Oatmeal.

1 oz. Sugar, or A tea-sp. Salt

IJ oz. Butter.

A pinch of Baking Powder.

A little Water or Milk.

Method. - Put all the dry ingredients into a

basin, and rub in the butter with the tips of

the fingers until free from lumps. Boat up the

egg in a small basin, add half of it to the mixtiu-e,

and then enough water or milk to form all into

one lump. Ivnoad with the hands until fi-ee

from cracks, and turn the dough on to a floured

board. Finish in the same way as Ayrshire

Shortbread (p. 218).

Note. - Wheaten meal may be used instead of

oatmeal.

Raspberry Biscuits

Take any sweet biscuits, such as Milan or

AjTshire shortbread, and place two together with

a little raspberry jam between. Coat them

with raspberry glac6 icing (p. 226) and decorate

them with a few chopped pistachio nuts or small

pieces of preserved fruit.

LARGE CAKES

Angel Cake

Ingredients -

2 oz. Vienna Flour.

1 tea-spoonful Cream

Tartar.

A pinch of Salt.

1 tea-spoonful Orange Flower

Water.

C whites of Eggs.

3 oz. Castor Sugar.

Method. - Dry and sieve the flour with the

cream of tartar. Add a pinch of salt to the

whites of eggs, and beat them to the stiffest

possible froth. Well sieve the sugar, and mix

it very Ughtly in. Then the flour and cream of

tartar in the same way, and leistly the flavouring.

Do not stop beating after tho mixing is begun,

and keep the mixture as light as possible. Bake

in a perfectly clean and ungreased tin, and from

twenty to thirty minutes in a moderate oven.

Test the cake with a fine skewer before removing

it from the oven, and do not allow it to become

too brown. When ready turn the cake upside

down on a sheet of paper and leave it until the

tin can be slipped off quite easily. The cake

may be iced with fondant or glac6 icing if

desired.

Cherry Cake

Ingredients -

J lb. Flour.

3 Eggs.

5 oz. Castor Sugar.

4 oz. Butter.

Method. - Cream the butter and sugar. Sieve

the flour, and add it to the butter and sugar by

degrees with the eggs, boating well after the

addition of each egg. Lift the mixture well up

in the basin while mixing, and make it very

i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

2 or 3 oz. Glac6 Cherries.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

221

light. Add the cherries cut in small pieces,

baking powder and nutmeg at the last, mix

them gently in, but do not beat again. Pour the

mixture into a small hned cake tin, and bake

in a good oven about three-quarters of an hour.

Chocolate Tea Cake

Ingredients -

i oz. Butter.

3 oz. Castor Sugar.

3 oz. Grated Chocolate.

1 oz. Ground Almonds.

Grated Rind of half a Lemon.

4 oz. Vienna Flour.

1 dessert-spoonful Orange

Flower Water.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A pinch of Ground

Cinnamon.

A pinch of Nutmeg

3 small Eggs.

Method. - Sieve the sugar, cinnamon, choco-

late, and nutmeg into a basin. Add the butter

and beat together with a wooden spoon until of

a soft creamy consistency. Then add the eggs

and flom- by degrees, beating and mixing well

between the addition of each egg. Flavour to

teiste, and add the baking powder at the last.

Pour into a tin that has been greased and dusted

out with flour and sugar mixed, and bake the

cake in a moderate oven about one hour, until

well risen and until it feels dry when tested

with a skewer.

Note. - When cold, this cake may be iced

with chocolate glace icing (p. 225), and then

decorated with crystalUsed violets and leaves

cut out of angelica or any other suitable decora-

tion that will form a nice contrast to the broAi^Ti

icing.

Christmas Cake

1 tea-spoonful Ground

Cinnamon.

1 tea-spoonful Mixed Spice.

12 Eggs.

2 glasses Brandy.

Ingredients -

1 lb. Butter.

1 lb. Castor Sugar.

2 lbs. Flour.

3 lbs. Currants.

1 lb. Candied Peel.

J lb. Sweet Almonds.

Method. - Put the butter and sugar into a

large warm basin, and beat them together to a

cream. Add the yolks of eggs and spices, and

beat for a few minutes. Have the whites of

љggs beaten to a stiff froth, and add them next

alternately with the flotir. Beat again for

twenty minutes. Add the fruit, carefully pre-

pared, and the brandy at the last. Poiu- the

mixture into one or two well-lined cake tins, and

bake in a moderate and steady ov"n from two

to four hours according to size. This cake

ought to be kept at least three months before

it is cut. It should be wrapped in a clean cloth

or paper, and stored in a tin box. It may be

iced iu the same way as a wedding-cake (p. 226).

Easter Cake

Make in the same way as Simnel Cake (p. 224).

Ai-range the almond paste on the top of the

cake in the form of a bird's nest. Score roughly

with a fork end bro^^Ti lightly in the oven or

under the grill of the gas stove. Finish off by

putting a few sweets to imitate birds' eggs in

the hollow.

German Pound Cake

Ingredients -

C oz. Butter.

C oz. Castor Sugar.

10 oz. Flour.

The grated rind of half a

Lemon.

i lb. Sultanas.

i lb. Candied PeeL

5 Eggs.

I tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Method. - First clean and pick the sultansis,

and shred the candied peel very finely. Then

put the butter and sugar into a basin, and beat

them to a cream. Add the grated lemon rind,

one egg, and a little of the flour sieved, and

mix well for a few minutes. Add the second

egg and a httle more flour, and so on, repeating

this process until all the eggs and flour have

been added. Beat all together for about ten

minutes, lifting the mixture well up in the spoon

so as to introduce some air. Mix in the fruit

and baking powder at the last, but do not beat

again, or the fruit will be incHned to fall in the

baking. Pour the mixture into a lined cake

tin, and bake in a moderate oven for two hours,

or until thoroughly cooked and nicely browned.

^Vhen ready, remove the cake from the oven,

allow it to stand a few minutes, then turn on to

a wire stand to cool.

Gingerbread

Ingredients -

1 lb. Flour.

} lb. Sugar.

J lb. Butter, Lard, o

Dripping.

ј lb. Syrup or Treacle.

2 oz. Sweet Almonds.

1 gill Buttermilk or Water.

2 Eggs.

J lb. Candied PeeL

1 dessert-spoonful Ground

Ginger.

1 tea-sp. Ground Cinnamon.

1 tea-sp. Baking .Soda.

A pinch of Cayenne.

Method. - Sieve the flour, spices, and soda

into a large basin, and rub in the fat until free

from lumps. Add the sugar, peel finely shred,

and the almonds blanched and shred, and mix

well. Make a well in the centre, pour in the

treacle or syrup shghtly warmed, the eggs well

beaten, and the biittermilk or water. Mix in

the dry ingredients from the sides of the basin,

and beat all well for a few minutes. Pour the

mixture into a greased shallow tin, and bake in

a moderate oven for at least one hour, or until

firm to the touch.

Note. - The fruit may be omitted from this

recipe, or sultanas or currants added eis desired.

Ingredients -

1 lb. Flour.

i lb. Butter.

J lb. Currants.

} lb. Mixed Peel.

i lb. Sultanas.

I lb. Demerara Sugar.

Holiday Cake

2 tea-spoonfuls Mixed Spice.

i pint Stout

Rind of 1 Lemon.

1 tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda.

4 Eggs.

Method. - First prepare the fruit (see p. 212),

222

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

and mix it with a littlo of the flour. Tlien put

the rest of the flour into a large basin, and rub

in the butter until free from lumps. Add the

fruit and other dry ingredients except the soda,

mix all together, and make a well in the centre.

Heat the stout in a small saucepan and add

the soda to it. Jlix quickly, and while still

frothy pour it into the centre of the dry in-

gredients. Add also the eggs well beaten, and

beat all together for fifteen minutes. Pour the

mixture into a lined cake tin, and bake in a slow

oven for three hours.

Invalid Cake

Ingredients -

3 oz. Hoiir.

2 Eggs.

■2 oz. C"stor Sugar.

i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

2 oz. Butter.

Half Lemon Rind grated.

Method. - Make in the same way as cherry

cake (p. 220). Or the mixture may be baked in

small patty pans that have been greased and

dusted out with floiu* and sugar ; ten or fifteen

minutes will be sufficient to cook them.

Jam Sandwich

Ingredients -

3 Eggs, their weight in I A few drops of Vanilla or

Bntter, Flour, and Sugar. | other flavouring.

2 or 3 table-spoonfuls Jam.

Method. - ^lake the cake mixture according

to directions given for cherry cake (p. 220), beat

it well. Pour the mixture into two sandwich

cake tins that have been lined with paper, and

bake in a good oven from fifteen to twenty

minutes. When the cakes are nicely browned

and cooked through, turn them out on a sheet

of sugared paper, and, when cool, spread one

with jam, and place the other on the top.

Jabilee Cake

Ingredients -

10 oz. Butter.

10 oz. .Sugar.

14 oz. Flour.

J lb. Candied Peel.

i lb. Glac^ Cherries.

A few drops of Vanilla

Essence.

i lb. Sultanas.

2 oz. Sweet Almonds.

6 Eggs.

Almond Paste- \ lb. Ground Almonds, J lb. Castor Sugar,

I lb. Icing Sugar, 1 table-spcjonful Brandy, and 1 or 2

whites of Egg.

While GUue Icing- r&ge 22.5.

Deeorations-2 oz. Shred and Browned Almonds, some Red

Jam, and a few Pistachio Nuts.

Method. - Make the cake in the same way as

Cjrerman pound (p. 221) and bake in a moderate

oven from two to three hours until well risen

and firm to the touch. When ready, lift the

cake on to a sieve, and let it cool. Prepare

the almond paste as on p. 225, and put a nice

smooth layer on the top of the cake, and set

it aside for several hours to become quite

dry. Then coat the top with a little white glac6

icing. Coat the sides of the cake with some

red jam, and then with a layer of shredded

almonds and pistacliio nuts, or with browned

cocoanut and some cocoanut coloured pink

with cochineal. The top of the cake may be

further decorated with some pieces of preserve

fruits or with some of the icing put tlu-ough a

forcing-bag, and little silver balls.

Ingredients -

} lb. Flour.

J lb. Rice-flour.

G oz. Castor Sugar.

i lb. Butter.

3 large Eggs.

J lb. Currants.

Luncheon Cake

2 oz. Candied Peel.

A pinch of Nutmeg.

1 tea-sp. Carl)onate of Soda.

The grated Rind of half a

Lemon.

1 gill of Milk.

Method. - Sieve the flour, rice-floiu-, and sugar

into a basin, and rub in the butter untij free

from lumps. Then add the nutmeg, lemon

rind, sugar, and fruit, carefully prepared. Mix

together, and make a well in the centre. Heat

the milk in a small saucepan, add the soda to

it, and, while still frothy, poiu- it into the midst

of the dry ingredients. Add also the eggs, the

yolks and whites beaten separately, and mix

all together. Beat the mixture well for a few

minutes, and then pour it into a cake tin that

has been Uned with paper (see p. 212). Bake

the cake in a moderate oven for about two hours.

Madeira Cake

Grated Rind of half a Lemon,

or 3 or 4 drops of Vanilla

Essence.

1 or 2 Strips of Citron I'eel.

Ingredients -

6 oz. Butter.

6 oz. Castor Sugar.

9 oz. Flour.

i large Eggs.

i tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Method. - Cream the buttor and sugar. Beat

the eggs in a separate basin until they are light

and frothy, and add them to the creamed butter

and sugar. Mix well for a few minutes. Sieve

the flour and baking powder, and mix these

hghtly but thoroughly into the other mixture.

Have ready a cake tin lined with paper, pour

in the mixture, not more than half fillinir it,

and bake in a moderate oven from one and a

half to two hours, or until the cake is well "isen

and feels firm to the touch. \\Tien the cake

has been in the oven about twenty minutes

place the strips of citron peel on the top.

Mocha Cake

Ingredients -

1 lb. Castor Sugar.

i lb. Vienna FTour.

.\ few drops of Vanilla

Essence.

4 Eggs.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

Mocha Icing.

Method. - First jireparo a plain round cake

tin in the same manner as for a sponge cake

(p. 213), then proceed to make the cake.

Separate the yolks from the whites of the

eggs, putting each into a medium-t'zed basin.

Sieve the flour with the baking powder, and

put it in a warm pla<3e until required. Add

GUIDE TO COOKERY

223

the sugar and vanilla to the yolks of eggs, and

cream these together with a \vii'e whisk from

ten to fifteen minutes, or until they look very

light in colour and consistency. Then whip

the whites to a stiff froth and stir them very

L'ghtly in, and alternately with a little flour,

turning the mixttire over and over and as deli-

cately as possible. When all is blended, pour

the mixture into the prepared tin, place it on a

bed of salt or sand on a baking-tin, and bake

in a good oven for half-an-hoxir, or until well

risen and firm to the touch. As soon as the top

is brown, the cake ought to be covered with

paper to prevent it taking too deep a colour.

Allow the cake to stand for five minutes after

removing it from the oven, then turn it out on

a sieve and let it cool gradually. Then ice the

cake as below : -

To Ice the Cake. - Prepare some Mocha icing

as on p. 227, and keep it on ice or in a very cool

place until it is required. SpUt the cake once

or twice according to height, spread each piece

with a layer of the icing, and put the cake back

into shape. Then with a spatula or broad-

bladed knife spread the top, and, if wished, the

sides of the cake with the icing. Put the re-

mainder into a forcing-bag with a rather large

fancy-shaped pipe at the end of it, and force

out pretty patterns on the top of the cake. A

few crystallised violets or pistachio nuts may

be used as an ornamentation, or any sweet that

will make a pretty contrast in colour to the

brown icing. Allow the cake to stand in a cool

place for an hour or two before cutting, so as to

harden the icing.

Orange Cake

Ingredients -

6 oz. Vieniia Flour.

The grated Rind of 1 Orange,

3 Eggs.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

5 oz. Castor Sugar.

Method. - Sieve the sugar into a basin, grate

the orange rind on the top of it, and rub the

two together with the tips of the fingers until

they are thoroughly blended. Add the eggs to

the orange sugar, and beat with a wire whisk

about fifteen minutes until smooth and creamy.

Then add the flour dried and sifted, and also

the baking powder. Mix these in very lightly,

and pour the mixture into a tin that has been

greased and dusted out with a mixture of flour

and sugar. Bake in a quick oven from twenty

to thirty minutes, and, when ready, turn carefully

on to a sieve to cool.

Coat the cake with icing and decorate \dth

chopped pistachio nuts, crystaUised violets, or

small sections of crystallised orange.

Note. - Instead of icing this cake, it may be

spUt when cold, and spread with the following

cream mixture : - Whip one gill of double cream

until quite thick, sweeten to taste, and flavour

with orango flavouring.

Pitcaithly Bannock

2 oz. Candied Orange PeeL

J oz. Castor .Sugar.

A little Flavouring.

Ingredients -

J lb. Butter.

1 lb. Flour,

i lb. Rice- flour.

2 oz. Sweet Almonds.

Method. - Warm the butter slightly and then

beat it to a cream. Blanch and chop the

almonds, and shred the peel very finely. Mix

all the other ingredients with the creamed butter,

and knead into one lump with the hands. This

may take some Uttle time, but no Hquid must

be used. Form into a round flat cake about

one and a half inches thick, and prick all over

with a fork. Place the cake on a baldng-tin

and tie a band of double paper round it. Bake

in a moderate oven from one to one and a half

hours, or until the cake feels firm and is a nice

brown colour. Allow it to cool on the tin before

removing it, and take off the band of paper.

Note. - This cake should be rolled in paper

and kept in an air-tight tin box, and then broken

in pieces when required.

Scotch Seed Cake

i lb. Sweet Almonds.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

A little grated Lemon Rind.

Some Sugar Carraways.

Ingredients -

i lb. Butter.

i lb. Castor Sugar.

14 oz. Flour.

6 Eggs.

J lb. Candied Peel.

Method. - Shred the candied peel finely, and

blanch and chop the almonds. Mx them with

about one table-spoonful of the flour, or just

sufficient to prevent them clotting together,

and then make the cake mixture according to

directions given for German pound cake (p. 221).

Pour into a papered cake tin and put some

sugar carraways on the top. Bake in a

moderate oven from two to two and a half

hours.

Shortbread

Ingredients -

4 oz. Flour.

2 oz. Kice-flour.

4 oz. Butter.

2 oz. Castor Sugar.

A few drops of Flavouring.

Method. - Sieve all the dry ingredients into a

basin, and rub in the butter. Add the flavouring

and then knead all into one lump without using

any hquid. Turn out on a board sprinkled

with rice-flour, and form into a smooth round.

If a shortbread mould is obtainable, shape the

cake in that ; if not, pinch it round the edges

with the fingers, or mark it with a knife. Then

place the shortbread on a greased baking-tin,

and prick it all over with a fork. A strip of

candied peel may be put on the top if wished, or

any other decoration that is desired. Bake in

a moderate oven from twenty to thirty minutes

or until the shortbread is of a uniform brown

colour, and feels firm to the touch. Allow it

to cool before removing it from the tin.

224

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Note. - If the dough becomes rather soft in

the making, it v\-ill be well to allow the short-

bread to stand imtil quite cool before baking,

otherwise it is apt to lose its fonn.

Sinmel Cake

J lb. Candied Peel.

i lb. Valencia Raisins.

} lb. Currants.

J gill Brandy.

J tea-sp. Ground Ginger.

J tea-sp. Ground Cinnamon.

J tea-sp. Grated Nutmeg.

Ingredients -

1 lb. Roar.

\ lb. Butter.

} lb. Castor Sugar.

5 Eggs.

The grated Rind of 1 Lemon.

The grated Rind of 1 Orange.

1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.

\ lb. Sultanas.

Almond Icing (see p. 225).

Method. - First prepare the fruit (see p. 212),

and mix it with one table -spoonful of the dry

flour. Then take a strong cake tin and line it

with at least two folds of thick white paper.

When these are ready, proceed to make the cake.

Cream the butter and sugar. Add the spices,

gi-ated orange and lemon rinds, yolks of eggs,

and brandy. Beat for a few minutes, and add

the flour sieved and the whites of the eggs beaten

to a stiff froth. ]Mix very lightly, and stir in

the prepared fruit and baking powder last of all.

Do not beat after the fruit is added. Pour the

mixture into the prepared cake tin, smooth it

over the top, and bkke in a steady oven from

two to three hours.

This cake improves with keeping, and should

not be cut for three or four weeks after making.

A Simnel Cake is usually coated with almond

paste, and this should be put on two or tlu*ee

days before the cake is to be used.

To Coat with Almond Paste. - ^Take the

quantity of almond paste, given on p. 225, and

spread it smoothly on the cake. Then take a

fork and score the pastљ across first one way

and then the other, and coat Ughtly with beaten

yolk of egg. Place the cake in a moderate oven,

or place it beneath the grill light on a gas stove

until the almond paste is nicely browned.

Note. - Sometimes a layer of almond paste is

put in the middle of this cake. When this is

desired, half the above quantity of the paste

should be made before the cake is baked, and

this should be made in a round the size of tlio

cake tin and laid in the middle of the mixture

before baking.

Sponge Cake

Ingredients -

5 oz. Loaf Sugar.

1 wine-glassful Water.

J lb. Flour (Vienna).

Method. - Put the sugar and water into a

small lined saucepan, bring them to the boil,

and simmer slowly for five minutes. Beat the

eggs slightly in a basin with a wire whisk, and

pour the syrup of sugar and water on to them,

stirring all the time. Then whisk steadily for

half-an-hour, until the mixture looks light and

2 whole Eggs and 1 Yolk.

A little grated Lemon Rind.

frothy and is well risen in the basin. Dry and

sieve the flour, and mix it in hghtly at the

last, with a little grated lemon rind or any other

flavom'ing preferred. Pour the mixture into a

cake tin prepared according to directions given

on p. 213, and do not more than half fill the tin.

Bake the cake in a very steady oven for about

three-quarters of an hour, or until it is well risen

and feels firm to the touch. If the heat from

the oven is great, stand the cake on a bed of

sand placed on a baking-tin, or put a tile or

brick under the tin.

Ingredients-

11 lb. Fresh Butter.

J lb. dark Treacle.

IJ lb. raw Sugar.

i pint warm Milk.

J pint Brandy.

1 tea-spoonful Salt.

12 Eggs.

Wedding Cake

4 lbs. Currants,

i lb. Sweet Almonds.

2 or 3 Bitter Almonds.

J lb. Citron Peel.

1 lb. Orange and Lemon Peel.

2 lbs. Flour.

Almond and Royal Icing.

Metliod. - Put the butter into a large and warm

basin, and beat it to a cream with the hand or

with a large wooden spoon. Add the sugar and

treacle slightly warmed, and beat again for a

few minutes. Then add the eggs two at a time,

beating the mixtvu-e weU after each addition.

(It will be safer to break the eggs into a small

basin previous to adding them to the mixture,

to ensure their being fresh.) Have the frioit

carefully prepared (p. 212), and mixed with

one or two table-spoonfuls of the flour, and add

it next with the milk, brandy, and salt. Dry

and sieve the flom*, and add it last of all. The

mixture must not be beaten after the flour is

added. When all is thoroughly blended pour

the mixture into two lined cake tins, one of which

is three or four sizes smaller than the other,

and bake in a moderate and steady oven. Tlie

larger cake will probably require from four to

five hours to bake, and a smaller one less in

proportion. Wlien the cakes begin to brown

they should be co\'erod with a double fold of

white paper to prevent them burning un the

top. The succass of the cake will depend very

much upon the long steady baking. Wlien the

cakes are baked and cold, they should be wrapped

in a thick sheet of white paper or a cloth, and

kept in a tin box for two or three months before

being iced or used.

Note. - For icing and decoration of cakes,

see pp. 225 and 226.

ICING AND DECORATION OF CAKES

The following are a few of the materials which

may bo used for decorating purposes : -

Coloured Sugars. - Put some coarse granu-

lated sugar on to a stiff sheet of white paper,

and pour a few drops of liquid colouring on the

top. Work this in with the point of a knife

until an even tint is obtained, and then leave

the sugar to dry. Pink, green, yellow, &c..

GUIDE TO OOOKEKY

225

sugsuf may bo made in this way, and these sugars

will keep if put in corked bottles.

Pistachio Kernels. - Put these into cold water,

and bring them quickly to tlie boil. Then drain

and pour plenty of cold water over them. Rub

off the skins, and dry the pistachios in a cloth.

Shred or chop before using.

Browned or Coloured Almonds. - First blanch

thealmonds (see p. 2 12), and dry them thoroughly.

Shred them finely, or chop them rather roughly.

To brown the almonds, put them on a tin in

a veiy moderate oven, and keep tiirning

them over and over until very evenly and

lightly browned. To colour them, sprinkle a

few drops of colouring on the top, and rub

it into the almonds. Pistachio nuts (which

are much more exiDensive than almonds) may

be imitated by colouring the almonds pale

green.

Cocoanut. - This may also be browned or

coloured iii the same way as almonds, and used

for decorating purposes.

Candied Cherries and other Fruits. - ^These are

very pi-otty and useful for decorating cakes,

and as they wiU keep almost indefinitely in an

air-tight tin box, they are not expensive. They

are generally cut in pieces unless they are very

small.

Angelica. - Tliis is also a very effective decora-

tion. If it is hard and sugawy, soak it in warm

water for a minute or two, then dry. Cut it

first into tliin strips, then into diamond-shaped

pieces to represent leaves, stars, rounds, &c.

A combination of angelica and cherries is very

pretty.

Nuts, such as walnu+s, filberts, Barcelona

nuts, &c., eitlier plain, or iced, or carameUsed,

may also be used.

Bonbons. - These may be had in many forms,

and if tastefully used they make a very simple

and easy decoration. Silver and gold dragees

are among the most useful.

Crystallised Flowers. - Tlaese can be bought

ready, such as rose petals, violets, orange flowers,

lilac ; and leaves to suit can be cutirom angeUca,

or oven from citron peel.

VARIOUS ICINGS

Almond Paste or Icing

Proportions -

1 lb. Ground Almonds.

J lb. Icing Sugar.

J lb. Castor Sugar.

Juice of half a Lemon.

1 or 2 table-sp. Brandy.

Yolks or Whites of Eggs.

Method.- -Bq particular to choose good ground

almonds; unless they are well preserved they

are liable to have a bitter or mouldy taste, or

perhaps no taste at all. Put the ground almonds

mto a strong basin, and sieve the two sugars on

the top of them. Add the flavouring, lemon

juice, and brandy. The brandy may, of course,

be onutted if it is objected to, but it renders the

almond paste more wholesome, and it will keep

better. Tlien add enough egg to bind all

together. Knead well with the hand, adding

the moisture very gradually. Eitiier yolks or

wliites of eggs may be used ; the yolks will make

the paste richer and yellower, the whites drier

and of a paler coloiu*. Or both yolks and whites

may be used if it is more convenient. The paste

ought to be very smooth when finished, and just

moist enough to be bound together.

Sometimes, for fancy purposes, the almond

paste is colom-ed pink, green, &c., and different

flavourings used.

To Use the Almond Paste. - This is generally

used for coating rich fruit cakes, such as wedding,

Christmas, or Simnol cakes. Cut the cake to

be iced flat on the top, or coat the foot of it.

Lay on a nice thick layer of the peiste and shape

it first with the hands. Then take a wetted

knife, and make the top and sides perfectly

smooth and level, and a sharp straight ridge

round the edges. If the cake is to be iced with

a white icing as well, allow the almond paste to

become quite dry and hard before putting on

the second icing. Sometimes, as in the case of

a Simnel or Easter cake, no wliite icing is put

on the top. In this case the almond paste should

be scored across with a fork, or marked in checks

with a fluted roller, brushed over with yolk of

egg, and browned under a gas grill or in a

quick oven.

GIac6 Icing

Proportions -

J lb. Icing Sugar.

About 3 table-spoonfuls Water or other Liquid.

Metlwd. - This is a simple soft icing, and one

that is very quickly made. Sieve the sugar and

put it into an enamelled saucepan or sugar -boiler.

Add the hquid (see below) very gradually and

stir over the fire until warm. The icing must not

be made too hot or it will become lumpy and

have a dull appearance. Whilst adding the

Hquid it must be borne in mind that, as the sugar

melts, the icing will become softer. Tlie icing

must be just soft enough to pour over the cake

and perfectly smooth. The following are a few

of the colourings and flavourings in which tliis

icing may be made : -

Chocolate Glac6. - Dissolve U or 2 oz. un-

sweetened chocolate in a very h'ttle water imtil

it is perfectly smooth. Prepare the above icing

with water and a few drops of vanilla, and

add it to the chocolate. Jlix the two together

and use.

Coffee Glac6 Icing. - Use strong coffee or

essence of coffee and a little water to moisten

the icing. One or two drops of vanilla may be

added if hked.

Tea Glac^ Icing. - I\Iake in the same way, using

tea instead of coffee.

Lemon or Orange Glac6 Icing. - Use strained

226

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

orange or lemon juico to moisten the icing,

adding water if necessary. A little yellow

colouring may also bo added, the same as in

fondant icing.

Raspberry or Strawberry Glac6 Icing. - Use

raspberry or strawberry sjTup to moiston the

icing.

If by any chsmoe this icing should become

too soft in the making it may be stiffened by

adding more sieved icing sugar, but it is always

better if tliis has not to bo done.

To Use the Icing. - Tliis icing may either be

poured over the cakes, or the cakes may be

•dipped into it. If a large cake is to be iced,

put it on a wire stand placed on a sheet of white

paper, and pour over enough icing to cover the

top only, or the top and sides as desired. Any

icing that runs over may be gathered up and

used again. Small cakes may be iced in the

same way, or they may be held on the point of

a palette knife over the pan of icing, and the

icing poured over them, or they may be dipped

right into the icing.

Royal Icing

Proportions -

J table-sp. Lemon Juice, or 6 or 7 AMiites of Eggs

6 drops of Acetic Acid. 2 lbs. Icing Sugar.

A little Blue Colouring.

Metlwd. - This is a hard white icing used

principally for the icing of wedding, birthday,

or Christmas cakes. Sieve the sugar, and put

most of it into a basin, reserving a small pro-

portion in case the icing should be made too

moist, when this may be used. Add a very

little blue colouring, either a drop of liquid blue

or a tiny dust of stone washing blue, and just

enough to take off the yellow shade from the

sugar, and to make the icing a finer white.

Then put in some acid, lemon juice, or acetic

acid, as without this the icing would not harden

on the cake. Now add the whites of eggs by

degrees, mixing the icing with a wooden spoon

or spatula. It is very important that both

basin and spoon should be dry and free from

gretise before commencing, or otherwise the

icing might be spoiled. Beat the icing as

quickly as possible until it is perfectly smooth

and of the right consistency ; from five to ten

minutes may be sufficient, but it requires some

hard beating to make it workable. To be of

the right consistency, the wooden spoon should

be able to stand vertically in it without falling.

The icing is now ready for use, but in order

to prevent a skin forming on the top it must

be kept covered with a damp cloth. Place a

piece of stick or wire across the basin to pre-

vent the cloth falling down on the icing.

This icing will keep for several days if it is

attended to, but the cloth on the top must be

kept dampi and the icing itself beaten up occa-

sionally. If once a skin is allowed to form on

the top tlirough exposure to the air, the icing

will bo spoilt for all fine purposes, and especially

for piping, aa the Uttle hard particles would

choke up the tube. Keep the icing in a cool

place.

To Ic" a Cake. - It is a comparatively easy

matter to put a plain coating of icing on a cake ;

it is when sometliing more elaborate - designs

and ornaments - are required that much patience

and practice are necessary. To begin with,

the cake must be perfectly flat ; if there is not

a coating of ahnond paste to make it so, it will

be better to trim the cake so as to make it stand

evenly, and then to turn it upside down and

ice the bottom. If cake icing is frequently

done in a house, a rotation -stand or cake -drum

should be bought, as this will simplify the pro-

cess very considerably. Fix the cake on to

the stand by means of a little icing, and then

have it raised to a convenient height for the

hand. Failing a proper cake-stand, fix the cake

on to the bottom of a cake tin turned upside

down, always choosing the tin a size smaller

than the cake itself, in order that the knife

may pass freely round it whilst icing. Then

pile on the top of the cake sufficient icing to

cover it and spread it over, quite roughly at

first, with a good -sized table-knife. Now place

the point of the knife to the centre of the cake,

holding it horizontally and steadily with the

right hand and with the left ; move the rotation -

stand round until a complete circle has been

made, when the knife may be slipped off. It

will require some practice to leave the surface

smooth after one turn of the stand, a little

touching up may be necessary, but skill will be

acquired by degrees. If the cake is being iced

without a rotation-stand, the knife must .]ust

be brought smoothly across it in one direc-

tion. If the top only of the cake is to be iced,

allow it to dry, then decorate to taste and

cover the sides with a silver or gilt paper band

or with a coloured paper frill, and perhaps a.

band of ribbon.

To Ice the Sides of a Cake. - Place some more

icing on the bare parts and spread it roughly

round with a knife. Then hold the knife

vertically and in a slanting position against the

cake, seeing that it touches the complete width,

and turn the stand round with the left hand.

Any superfluous icing should be carried off with

a swoop of the knife when the circle is finished.

If not smooth after the first attempt, repeat the

process. Touch up the edges ^vith the point of

the knife and allow the cake to dry. For a

wedding cake, two or even three coats of this

icing Bie generally put on, but one coat must

always be dry before another is added ; in fact,

if more convenient, the cake may rest for several

days between the coatings.

The next step is to decorate the cake. The

simplest method of decorating a Qiristmas or

birthday cake is to use bon-bons or preserved

GUIDE TO COOKERY

227

fruits, and these can easily be fixed in place with

a little icing. The other style of decoration,

known as " piping," is more elaborate and

requires a corisiderable amount of practice.

A few lessons from an experienced teacher

would be an immense help to a beginner. For

piping purposes bags and fancy forcing-pipes are

necessary. The pipes or tubes are made with

various-shaped openings to give different forms

to the icing pressed through them. Put some

icing into this bag and fold down the top to keep

it in. Now force out this icing as fancy dic-

tates, experimenting first on the back of a plate

or even a piece of paper until you get a definite

and regular pattern. Dots, stars, or rosettes

are easier than a long flowing pattern, and they

can be arranged very effectively. Points may

be pricked at regular intervals on the cake to

act as a guide in forming any pattern. Then

press the icing slowly through the tube, following

any device you may have in view. Of course,

this piping is an art which cannot be learned in

a day, but if it is commenced at the simple stages

and gradually worked up to something more

difficult it will be found a most fascinating em-

ployment. A little colouring may also be added

to the icing when desired.

When a cake is to be in two or three tiers, as

in the case of a wedding cake, the cakes must be

in graduated sizes, the plain coatings of icing

put on separately, and then the cakes stuck

together by means of a little icing before the

decorating or piping is commenced.

Vienna or Butter Icing

Ingredients -

6 oz. Fresh Butter. | J lb. Icing Sugar.

Method. - If salt butter must be used, wash

and work it in several cold waters, and finally

press out the water in a cloth before tising it.

Put the butter into a basin and sieve the sugar

on the top of it. Cream these two together

with a wooden spoon in the same way as for a

cake. Then add the desired flavouring and

colouring as below.

1. Coffee or Mocha Icing. - Add two table-

spoonfuls of strong coffee to the above, mixing

it in a little at a time.

2. Cliocolate Icing. - Add two or three ounces

of unsweetened chocolate dissolved in one table-

apoonful of water to the above mixture.

3. Strawberry or Raspberry Icing. - Add a

few drops of essence of strawberry or raspberry

to flavour, and colour pink with carmine.

4. Orange or Lemon Icing. - Grate the rind

off an orange or a lemon, and rub it into two

ounces of the sugar to be used for the icing.

Proceed to make the icing as above, and colour

with a little yellow colouring.

The colouring and flavouring of this icing may

be varied according to taste. Spirit or liqueur

is frequently added, such as rum, maraschino,

Curagoa, &c.

Any of the above icings may be made in half

or quarter quantities, or if a ntunber of httle

fancy cakes are to be iced, the plain butter and

sugar may be worked together first, and then

the quantity divided and different flavourings

and colours added.

To use the Icing. - The icing must be allowed

to become quite cold and hard before using. In

hot weather the basin containing the icing

should be placed on ice or put in a very cold

place. If a large plain cake is to be iced, it is

usual to split it once or twice, and put a layer

of the icing between. Sometimes for this purpose

a little thick cream is worked into the icing just

before using. Spread a thin coating of the icing

on the top and sides of the cake, and put more

of the icing in a forcing-bag, with rather a large

pipe on the end of it. Force out the icing on

the cake in stars or scrolls, and do it as quickly

as possible, before the heat of the hand has

time to soften the icing. If hked, two different

colours of icing may be used, such as yellow

and pink, yellow and brown, pink and wMte,

&c. Do not put too much of this icing on any

cake, as it is decidedly rich. Some other Ught

and suitable decoration may be used as well,

such as a little finely chopped pistachio nut,

a few rose-leaves or violets, small pieces of

angelica, &c.

GENERAL HINTS ON DECORATING

Cakes, as well as other eatables, should be

made to look pretty as well as to taste good.

Of course, many cakes are better left in their

simple state without any decoration at all, and

when this is the case ptirticular care should be

taken with the baking to avoid overcooking

or burning, and consequently an tinsightly ap-

pearance.

Under no circumstances should a cake be

over-decorated, and there are many simple

and harmless forms of decoration which may be

employed.

One of the simplest forms of decoration is a

sprinkling of sugar, or the cake may be brushed

over with white of egg and sprinkled with sugar

in two colours, or even chopped nuts.

Another simple decoration is to spread a tliin

coating of jam or jelly over the cake, and then

to sprinkle with browned or coloured almonds,

cocoanut, pistachio nuts, &c., or a mixture of

these. This is very suitable for the sides of

cakes where the top only is iced.

When a more elaborate decoration is wanted,

one of the various icings may be used. With a

large cake it is very usual to ice the top only and

then to decorate with preserved fruits, bon-bons,

or icing in two colours put through a forcing-bag.

Any decoration may be fixed in place with a

little soft icing.

228

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Pleasing efloots in colour must always be

studied. Light and delicate colours ai-e prefer-

able to the darker shades, wliich are apt to

suggest " somotliing painted."

In the decorating of little fancy cakes there

is a wide range for individual taste and arrange-

ment. With the help of the icings and decora-

tions above described, or even odds and ends

of icings, the variety of pretty cakes wliich can

be made is endless, and it is just these pretty

little cakes which cost so much to buy, and

which add so immensely to the attractiveness

of an afternoon tea-table.

The making and decorating of these cakes

require the same amount of taste and ingenuity

as any other fancy or artistic work, but it is

wonderful how many new kinds of cakes in

novel designs can be made with a little ctireful

handhng and some good-wiU.

ilost of the small fancy cakes are made up

from Genoese pastry, sponge cake, Madeira cake,

chocolate cake, orange cake, or any other plain

cake mixture. These are sliced and cut in small

fingers, diamonds, rounds, heart-shapes, &c.,

and iced or made into sandwiches. Two different

cake mixtures may be put togotRer, such as

pink and white, chocolate and wliite, chocolate

and pink, orange and pink, and so on ; and for

spreading purposes jam, marmalade, soft almond

peiste, thick flavoured custard, clotted or whipped

cream mixed with chopped nuts, sieved jam or

pieces of fruit, Vienna icing, fondant icing, and

Bo on may be used. Then a coating of icing or a

little piping in icing put on the top with some

other form of decoration. The following axe a

few examples of what may be done : -

1. Genoese pastry made into a sandwich with

raspberry jam and cut into fancy shapes.

Coated with chocolate or wliite icing, and

decorated with loav'es of angoUca and crystallised

violets.

2. Sandwich of orange cake spread with

marmal de, iced with yellow glac6, and deco-

rated with crystalUsed sections of orange, and a

Uttle chocolate icing to mark the seeds.

3. Sandwiches of chocolate cake spread with

pink Vienna icing, a piping of Vienna icing on

the top, and a few silver dragoes.

4. Sandwiches of Madeira cake spread with

soft almond paste. Spread th6 top with almond

paste, brush over with white of egg, and deco-

rate with chopped pistachio nuts or browned

almonds.

5. Sandwiches of Genoese pastry spread with

clotted cream. Coat with pale yellow fondant'

or glac6, and decorate with leaves of angelica

and red berries (bon-bons).

These hints may be varied indefinitely, and

according to what there is at hand to make the

cakes of, but they will perhaps serve as a guide

to the beginner, who, after a little practice, will

soon launch out on her own account, and be

able to make dainty morsels without any trouble

or difficulty.

THE PRESERVING AND BOTTLING OF FRUIT

JAMS AND JELLIES

HINTS ON JAM-MAKING

TjNiiESS we have a garden of our own which

supplies us with fruit, home-made jam is almost

of necessity more expensive than that wliich is

bought, although, when well made, it is beyond

doubt superior in quality.

Fruit for preserving should be uniformly

ripe, sound, and fresh, and it should bo picked,

if possible, on a dry, sunny morning, and not

with the dew upon it. If the fruit bo damp, or

even if the weather be foggy when it is gathered,

there is nothing more likely than this to prevent

the jam from keeping.

The fruit should be made into jam as soon

as possible after picking, and this is one point

whore housewives have the advantage over

manufacturers.

We must first see that the fruit is free from

dust and dirt, after which it must be picked and

all stalks removed. The harder fruits, such as

apples, plums, and gooseberries, may bo washed

before being preserved.

There are many different methods of making

jam, and opinions vary as to which is the best.

One method is to boil the sugar and water first,

and thus make a syrup to which the fruit io

added ; another is to boil the fruit by itself and

then to add the sugar in a crushed or half -melted

condition ; and a third way is to boil both sugar

and fruit together.

The sugar used for preserving should always

be of the finest - ^puro cane sugar - and crushed

or crystallised, not powdered. Inferior sugar is

expensive in the end, as it causes so much waste

by tho extra amount of scum it produces ; and

if beetroot sugar is used the jam will neither have

such a good colour nor will it keep so long. The

quantity of sugar required will vary slightly

according to the nature of the fruit used, the

usual proportion being from three-quarters to

one pound sugar to one pound of fruit. If too

little sugar is used the jam will not keep, if too

much it will candy and the flavour will not be so

good.

It is possible, but not easy, to make jam with-

out a proper preserving -pan ; an iron one would

GUIDE TO COOKERY

229

discolour the fruit, wliile a tin one is so thin

that the jam would be liable to burn. Copper,

brass, and aluminium pans are the best for the

purpose. Enamelled iron ones are also sold

and are less expensive, but jam made in them

is much more likely to burn unless it has very

careful attention. If much preserving is to be

done it will be found a wise investment to

buy a thoroughly good preserving -pan, a brass

one for preference. The greatest care must be

taken to keep the pan in good condition, and

it must always be scrupulously clean and dry

before the fruit is put in.

An iron spoon must never be used, but stir

always with a wooden or silver one. The

skimming should not be commenced too early

in the process. It is only a froth which rises

at first ; the scum itseK is very thick.

During the time the frmt and sugar are being

boiled together they must be stirred carefully

and almost constantly. Be careful, too, that

the pan is raised a little from the fire and not

directly over it, or it will be liable to burn ; on

the hot-plate of a close range is really the best

place for cooking it. It is the amount of sugar

employed in the maldng of jam which makes it

so liable to catch.

The time for cooking will depend very much

upon the method employed, the kind of fruit

used, and also upon the rate of boiling. It does

not do to let the fruit boil too slowly. As a

matter of fact, it is impossible to lay down any

hard-and-fast rule as regards time ; experience

is the best guide, as not only will the time vary

according as to whether the fruit is quickly or

slowly boiled, but the same kinds of fruits will

be found to differ, some being more watery than

others, and the more watery the fruit the longer

boiling will it require. If boiled too short a time

the jam will neither sot firmly nor keep well,

while, on the other hand, if it is boiled too long

the flavour will be spoilt and the jam become

sticky. Wlion a little of the jam, poured upon a

cold plate, sets in a few minutes, it is ready and

should be put at once into pots. It ought to be

ladled out of the pan with a silver soup -ladle or

with a cup or small jug.

The pots must be thoroughly dried beforehand,

and then filled to within quarter of an inch from

the top. If any drops are spilt on the sides of

the pots they should be immediately wiped off

with a cloth wrung out of hot water.

To cover the jam, cut rounds of thin white

paper the proper size of the pots, dip these in

brandy, whisky, or vinegar, and lay them on the

surface, then tie over each pot a piece of wetted

vegetable parchment or a gummed paper cover

sold for the purpose. Label the pots on the

sides with a written or printed label, stating tlio

name of the jam and the date when made.

(For Storing, see p. 104.)

It is impossible to give a large number of

recipes for jam and jelly -makiag in a book of

this kind, but it is hoped that the following will

give a good idea of the ordinary methods.

Apple Ginger

Proportions -

3 lbs. Apples.

3 lbs. Preserving Sugar.

6 oz. Whole Ginger.

Water.

Method. - Put the ginger into a jug or lined

saucepan with boiling water and let it infuse

by the side of the fire for several hours, keeping

it well covered. Peel the apples, cut them into

neat pieces, removing the core, and throw them

into cold water to preserve the colour. Drain

the water from the ginger and make up the

quantity to one and a half pints. Put tliis into

a preserving -pan with the sugar, bring to the boil

and boil from eight to ten minutes. Drain the

pieces of apple, throw them gently into this

sjnrup, and let them boil until transparent but

not broken. Then lift them out carefviUy, put

them into jars, and potu: the sjTup over.

Apple Jelly

Proportions. - To each pint of apple juice

allow one pound of preserving sugar and the

rind and juice of one lemon.

MetJiod. - Wash the apples and cut them in

four or six pieces, according to si2;e, without

removing the peel and cores. Put these into a

preserving-pan with just siifficient cold water to

cover them. Bring to the boil and boil gently

for one hour or longer, stirring occasionally with

a wooden spoon. ^Vlien reduced to a pulp pour

all into a jelly -bag or cloth (see below) and allow

the j\iice to drip all night. The juice ought to

be of a tliickish consistency when cold ; if very

watery either too much water has been added or

the pulp has not been sufficiently cooked.

Next day measure the juice carefully and put

it into a preserv-ing-pan with the lemon rind

peeled off thinly and tied in musUn and the lemon

juice, if Uked. Bring to the boil and add the

proper proportion of sugar. Stir carefully until

the sugar is melted, and then boil quickly fi-om

twenty to thirty minutes or until the jelly will set

when tested on a plate. The time depends very

much upon the kind of fruit used. Remove

any scum from the top before potting.

Note. - Tlais jelly may be flavoured with

whole ginger instead of lemons, or orange juice

and rind may be used instead of lemon juice and

rind.

The apple pulp may be sieved, mixed with

sugar and boiled carefully for half-an-hour, and

can be used for making puffs or an open tai't.

It will not keep long.

The Jelly-Bag or Cloth

The best strainer for jelly is a piece of hucka-

back or strong cheese-cloth. This is more easily

230

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

kept in order than the old-fashionod flannel

bag, and serves the purpose equally well. The

material may bo cither in the form of a towel tied

on the four legs of a chair (see p. 1-0), or a conical-

shapod bag may bo made with loops through

which a stick may bo put in order to suspend it

between two chairs with a basin underneath.

The jelly -bag should be well scalded with boiling

water before it is used. After the fruit has been

emptied into it no pressure must be used or the

juice will not bo clear. Tlie straining must be

done in a warm place and out of a draught, and

sufficient time must be allowed to let every

possible drop of juice run through. The best

plan is to let it drain over-night. Some people

use a hair sieve instead of a cloth, but this is not

so roomy and not such a convenient plan on the

whole.

Apricot Jam

Proportions. - To each pound of apricots

weighed after stoning allow three-quarters of a

pound preserving sugar.

Method. - Wipe the apricots, and, if time per-

mits, remove the skins. Cut them in halves with

a silver knife and take out the stones. Spread

out the apricots on large dishes and strew over

them their proper proportion of sugar. Let

them stand thus for at least twelve hours.

Meanwhile break the stones, or at least some

of them, blanch the kernels, and add them to

the apricots. Next day turn all into a preserv-

ing-pan and simmer very gently until the apricots

are clear and the jam will set. It must be stirred

very carefully, and the time required will be from

three-quarters to one hour.

Note. - Greengage Jam may be made in the

same way.

Blackberry and Apple Marmalade

Proportions. - Equal quantities of apples and

blackberries and one pound of sugar to one

pound pulp.

Method. - Wash the apples and cut them in

slices without removing skins and cores. Pick

the blackberries carefully, discarding any that

are unsound. Put both kinds of fruit into a pro-

serving-pan with just enough water to keep them

from burning. Cook until reduced to a pulp,

stirring frequently. Then rub through a hair

sieve, leaving only the skins and seeds. Return

the sieved pulp to a clean preserving-pan with

sugar in the above proportion, and stir almost

constantly for twenty minutes or until it is firm.

If this is put in small pots it can bo turned out

in shape when wanted, and is very good served

with blancmange or with cream.

Black Currant Jam

Proportions. - To throe pounds black currants

allow one pint rhubarb juice and four pounds

preserving sugar.

Method. - ^The black currants should be as ripe

as possible. Strip them from the stalks and

wash thom if they are very smoked and dirty.

Put them into a preserving-pan with the proper

portion of rhubarb juice (see p. 231), bring to

the boil, and allow the berries to simmer slowly

for fifteen minutes. Warm the sugar without

allowing it to brown and add it next. Boil with

the sugar from twenty to thirty minutes, or

until the jam will set. It must be stirred almost

constantly.

Note. - ^Raspberry or red currant juice may be

used instead of rhubarb, but either of these will

give a distinct flavour.

Black Currant Jelly

Proportions. - To one pint of black currant

juice allow one pound of sugar.

Method. - Pick the currants from the stalks

and wash them if necessary. Put them into a

double saucepan or into a jar placed in a sauce-

pan of boiling water with one gill of water or

rhubarb juice (see p. 231) to each pound of fruit,

and cook for two hours at least, or until all the

juice is drawn out. Then strain them through

a jolly-cloth or large sieve, allowing them to

drip all night. Next day measure the juice and

put it into a preserving-pan with the above

proportion of sugar. Stir carefully until the

sugar is dissolved, and then boil for half-an-hour,

or until the jelly will set.

Note. - A few red currants may be mixed

with the black.

Red currant or Cranberry jelly can be made in

the same way.

Damson and Apple Jam

Proportions -

8 lbs. Damsons. i 10 lbs. Sugar.

2 pints Apple .Tuice. I

Method. - Pick the fruit carofullj', rejecting

any that is not sound. Then wash if necessary

or rub it between the folds of a coarse towel.

Prepare the apple juice in the same way as for

apple jolly (see p. 229). Put the damsons into

the preserving-pan with their proper proportions

of sugar and apple juice and stir carefully until

they come to the boil. Take out as many stones

as possible and boil the jam for twenty minutes,

or until it will stiffen.

Note. - This jam will bo nicer if the stones can

bo removed from tho damsons before they are

used. A few of thom can then be cracked and

the kernels blanched and used for flavouring.

They should bo tied in muslin and removed

before the jam is potted, as they are too bitter

to eat.

Gooseberry and Red Currant Jam

Proportions. - To three pounds gooseberries

allow one gill red currant juico and three and a

half pounds sugar.

GUIDE TO COOKERY

231

Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries and

remove any that are unsound. Wash them

thoroughly and dry in a coarse cloth. Put

them into a preserving-pan with red currant

juice (see below) in the above proportion. Heat

the contents slowly over the fire and then boil

foF fifteen minutes. Add the sugar gradually,

and boil again until the jam will set. Skim when

necessary.

Orange Jelly

Proportions -

4 lbs. Marmalade Oranges. I 4 pints Water.

2 Lemons. ) Preserving Sugar.

Method. - Wipe the oranges and lemons with

a damp cloth, and grate off the yellow rind only.

Then remove all the white skin, which is not

used in the making of the jelly. Cut the inner

part of the oranges and lemons into small pieces,

and put it into a preserving-pan with the water.

Boil for half-an-hour, stirring frequently, then

strain through a hair sieve or jelly-bag, and

allow the juice to drop without pressure.

Measure this liquid and put it into a clean

preserving-pan, with the grated rinds and one

pound preserving sugar to each pint of juice.

Bring to the boil, and boil from ten to fifteen

minutes, or until it wiU jelly. Skim well, pour

into jars, and cover while hot.

Orange Marmalade

Proportions -

3i lbs. Marmalade Oranges. I \ pint boiling Water.

3 Lemons. Sugar (see below).

13i pints cold Water. ;

Method. - Wipe the oranges and lemons with

a damp cloth, and cut them in halves. Squeeze

out the juice on a lemon -squeesser, and strain it

into a basin. Put the pips into a smaller basin

with the boiling water, and let them stand to

extract the flavour. Cut the skins of both

oranges and lemons into very thin strips, put

them into a large basin or crock with the cold

water, and let them soak twenty-four hours.

Then pour into a preserving-pan, and boil until

the pieces of peel are quite tender. Put the

seeds with their water into a smaller saucepan,

and boil for fifteen minutes ; then strain the

water from them into the preserving-pan beside

the rest. Pour again into the basin or crock,

add the orange and lemon juice, and stand for at

least twelve hours longer. Next day measure

and allow one pound of preserving sugar to each

pint of liquid. Boil together in the preserving-

pan about twenty minutes, or until the mar-

malade will jelly. Then pour into pots, and

cover while hot.

Quince Jelly

Proporti(ms. - One povmd sugar to one pint

quince juice.

Method. - Peel, quarter and core the quinces.

Then weigh the pieces and put them into a

preserving-pan with two teacupfuls of water to

each pound of fruit. Simmer slowly until tho

fruit is quite soft, but not too pulpy or the jelly

will not be clear. Strain though a hair sieve

or jelly-cloth without pressing the pulp. Measure

the juice and put it into a preserving -pan with

the above proportion of sugar. Bring to the

boil and boil qmckly from fifteen to twenty

minutes.

Note. - ^To use the pulp that is left see under

Apple Jelly (p. 229).

Raspberry and Red Currant Jam

Proportions. - To every pound of raspberries

allow one gill of red currant juice and one and a

quarter pounds of sugar.

Method. - Stalk the currants and put them

into a double saucepan, or into a jar placed in a

saucepan of boiling water, and let them cook

until all the jmce is drawn out ; then strain

either through a flannel jelly-bag or though a

cloth, allowing the juice to drip all night.

Pick the raspberries, removing the stalks,

then weigh them, and put them into a preserv-

ing-pan with the proportion of red currant juice.

Bring to the boil and boil for ten minutes, then

add the sugar by degrees, and boil until the jam

will set, stirring almost constantly, and skimming

when necessary.

Rhubarb Jam

Proportions -

6 lbs. Rhubarb. I 3 Lemons.

6 lbs. Preserving Sugar. |

Method. - Choose some nice red-stalked

rhubarb. Wipe it and, unless young and tender,

take off the peel. Cut it into small pieces and

then weigh it. Put it into a large crock or basin

in layers with the sugar, sprinkling over with the

grated rind of the lemons. Strain the lemon

juice over, cover the basin, and stand for twenty-

four hours.

Next day povir off the liqmd and as much of

the melted sugar as possible into a preser\'ing-

pan and boil for ten minutes. Put in the

rhubarb and boil all together from half to tliree-

quarters.of an horn" or until the jam will set.

It must be stirred very frequently and skimmed

when necessary.

Note. - This jam may be flavoiu-ed with ginger

if preferred, or oranges may be used instead of

lemons. A few blanched and shredded almonds

may be added.

Rhubarb Juice

Rhubarb juice may be used instead of water in

the maldng of many jams, especially in the

preserving of the less juicy fruits. Its flavour is

so delicate that it does not overpower the special

232

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

fruit with wliich it is used. Wash tho rhubarb,

but do not ixvl it unless tho skin is very coarse,

as this helps to give a pink colour. Cut it up in

small pieces and put it into a largo jar with just

onougli water to moisten the base. Cover the

Jar and steam in a saucepan of water, or cook in

the oven until the juico is drawn out of the

rhubarb. Tlien strain through a jelly -cloth or

clean hair sieve.

Rowan Jelly

Proportions. - To each pint of rowan juice

allow one pound sugar.

Method. - Pick and wash the rowans and put

them into a preserving -pan with just enough

water to prevent them burning. Cook slowly

until the berries are reduced to a pulp ; then

strain in order to get the clear liqmd. Measure

this and return it to a clean pan. Bring to the

boil and add the proper proportion of sugar.

Then boil quickly for twenty minutes or until

tho jelly will set, skimming when necessary.

Strawberry Jam

Proportions. - Allow throo-queirtors of a pound

preser\'ing sugar to each pound of strawberries.

Method. - Choose small or medium-sized red

strawberries, and remove the husks and any

decayed ones before weighing. Put tliem into a

preser\ang-pan and boil them for haK-an-hour,

stirring almost constantly. During this time

allow the proper proportion of sugar to warm in

the oven without taking coloiir. Add it to tho

strawberries and boil the two together, stirring

all the time for another half-hour or until the

jam will set.

Note. - Tlie addition of one gill of red currant

juice to each pound of strawberries will much

improve the flavour of this jam. It should be

added with the sugar.

Proportions -

4 lbs. Tomatoes.

4 lbs. Sugar.

Tomato Jam

1 pint Water.

Method. - Tho red home-grown tomatoes are

the best. Wipe them and put into a basin with

boiling water to cover them. Allow them to

remain for a few minutos, then lift them out and

peel them. Next cut them into quarters and

remove the hard pieces from tho end and some

of tho seeds. Put tho seeds, skins, and one pint

of the water in which the tomatoes were soaked

into a saucepan, boil for half-an-hour and strain.

Th. n put tho sugar and this strained liquid into

a preserving-pan and bring them to the boil.

Add the tomatoes and boil until the jam will set,

stirring almost constantly.

Note. - A little lemon juice or ^nger may be

added if liked.

Vegetable Marrow Jam

Proportions. - To each pound of prepared

m£irrow allow one pound sugar, half a lemon, and

half ounce whole ginger, water.

Meilwd. - The vegetable marrows should bo

medium-sized and fresh. Wash, dry, and peel

them. Then cut in slices an inch thick. Stamp

out the seeds with a round cutter and cut the

rings in blocks an inch in width. Weigh the

marrow and put it into a largo basin with tho

proper proportion of sugar, tlie grated rind and

juice of lemon and the ginger broken in small

pieces. Put the skins and seeds into a saucepan

with water to cover them and boil haK-an-hour.

Then strain, and allow one gill of this liquid to

each pound of marrow. Pour this into tho basin,

cover, and stand for twenty-four hours.

Next day boil all together, stirring almost

constantly until the pieces of marrow look

transparent, and the liquid will jelly when tested

on a plate. From three-quarters to one hour

will be required.

THE ART OF BOTTLING FRUIT

The valuable notes following have been quoted

by kind permission from " The Book of Fruit-

Bottling" by Edith Bradley avd May Crooke,

published by John Lane.

Until the last few years, when there has been

a decided renewal in the industry, fruit-bottling

had become almost a lost art. Perhaps it ro-

qxiires more of that leisure and composure which

we of to-day so sorely lack. And yet fruit-

bottling is essentially a work for ladies, whether

it be for the replenishment of their own store-

rooms or as a pleasant and convenient means oi.'

adding a trifle to a straitened income.

It is by no means laborious, but interesting,

pleasant and healthy, though at the same time

it demands tho utmost nicety, cleanliness, and

attention to details ; and it is just in this

minute attention to detail that an uneducated

cook so often fails. All fruits may be - nay,

should be - bottled. The method is admirably

suited to those pai'ticular fruits which are least

in flavour when fresh gathered, as black currants

and damsons. These, when bottled and kept

six or eighteen months (or even longer), are veistly

improved. They lose that element of roughness,

almost acridity, which in tlio fresh fruit some-

times runs round the mouth and makes one

shudder.

First of all the fruit must be sterilised, and for

this a special steriliser must be used.

The follo%ving simple directions for using tho

Mercia Steriliser (and in general terms the same

will hold good for other kinds) may be of use to

those who are tempted to take up this fascinating

occupation.

It will bo easier, however, to describe the

steriliser after explaining tho process of stcrilisa-

GUIDE TO COOKERY

233

tion. Sterilisation is briefly this - to make

sterile or deprive of vitality the bacteriological

germs which cause decay and putrefaction in

fruit and vegetables, as well as in other forms of

food. If these germs axe destroyed and kept

from approaching the sterilised object again,

it will keep perfectly sound and good for a con-

siderable time, possibly an vmhmited time.

This result is brought about by the following

process. The article (fruit or vegetable) to be

sterilised is packed into a glass jar or bottle,

which is then filled with cold water and closed

either by a metal or glass cap fastened by a cUp

or a screw ; the bottles are placed in a vessel

containing cold water ; heat is applied in one form

or another, and the temperature of the water

bath is slowly raised lontil it is svtfficiently high

inside the glass jars to kill the bacteriological

germs. The exact degree of heat required to

destroy the germs varies considerably according

to the object wliich is being sterilised ; in fact,

some fruits and some vegetables require three

or four successive sterilisations (by which first

one bacteriological family and then another are

destroyed) to bring about the required con-

ditions.

The hot air and steam by which the bottles in

the steriUser or other vessel are now siurounded

causes the water or juice inside the bottles to

get hot and expand until it reaches the air-tight

capsule or cover. The requisite temperature is

sustained for some time at an equal height until

the process is complete (this can be determined

to a nicety by the fixed thermometer), and the

bottles are either lifted out and put into a cool

place, or else cold wacer Ls tin-ned into the

machine whilst the bottles are in it (the hot water

having been previously drawn off). With the

decreasing temperature the vacuum is created,

and unless the caps or tops are imperfect or

imperfectly adjusted, and so admit the air, the

contents of the jar, as before stated, will keep

for any length of time, because germs do not

incubate in a vacuum. This, then, is the

theory carried out by the process of sterilisation.

If sufficiently complete, and, as before stated,

the requisite temperatm-es for the different

fruits and vegetables have been proved, and

these temperatures have been registered by a

thermometer, the vacuum is attained and the

germs made sterile. It may chance, however,

that the rubber bands or the caps are not placed

on the bottles quite evenly, or, if the cap is

screwed, that the screw ring is not quite perfect ;

then if from one cause or another air is admitted,

as a ceriaia consequence the vacuum is destroyed,

the germs come into life, and immediately begin

to cause decay and decomposition or fermenta-

tion. If this is not at once noted, and the batch

of bottled fnut re-sterilised and re-capped, it

will all go bad.

In the Mr rcia Patent Steriliser every attempt

has been made tc put upon tlu market a steri-

liser which is the outcome of practical experience,

presented in a portable, tangible, practical, and

workmanUke form, and at a price which brings

it within the reach of all who £ire taking the

bottling of fruit year by year seriously.

It is made in three si^es of the best steeled tin.

The leirgest. A, takes twenty-five bottles, holding

Mercla Steriliser.

two poiinds each, i.e. fifty pound of fruit -

price £4. The second siz;e, B, takes twelve

bottles, containing two pound each - price £3, 3s.

The third size, C, which is for household use,

holds six bottles, containing two pounds each,

or nine smaller ones - price 1 8s.

Upon the copper bottom of the vessel stands

a low tin shelf pierced with holes. The bottles,

when filled, stand on this sheH, and it prevents

them from cracldng, as they are liable to do,

by coming into too close contact with the heating

vmderneath. In the Ud is an aperture in wliich

is inserted a socket ; into tins socket is screwed

(when it is required) a specially constriicted

thermometer, consisting of a long tube, the bulb

of which reaches about midway down the

bottles which contain the fruit for sterilising

(see illustration). As will be readily understood,

when the water in which the bottles is immersed

is heated and turned into steam, the temperature

at which the process is actually going on is

registered on the porcelain scale above the hd,

and it is thus possible to adjust the temperature

to a degree. Tlie necessary heat for the Mercia

steriliser can be supplied either by using a small

oil stove or gas-burner and raising the steriliser

on a strong stand above it, or Jhe ordinary

kitchen range upon wliich the sterihser may

stand.

Special bottles must be used with lip and clip

or screw-top lid, and the cost of these generally

amounts to 3d. or -Id. each. The bottles will do

again year after year, only the caps and rings

will require renewal each season. They are to

be obtained by the dogen from the Mercia

Agricultural Store, Bredon's Norton, near

Tewkesbury.

Tlie best fruits for bottling are gooseberries,

cherries, raspberries, apricots, plums, damsons,

234

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

blackberries, tomatoes, apples, and pears.

Strawberries can also bo successfully bottled,

but they require more caro and trouble than

other fruits, because they are so much softer.

Gooseberries. - Gooseberries are the easiest of

all fruits to bottle, and as a rule give the most

satisfactory results. The following directions

should be carefully followed. Have the bottles

reawly, making sure tliat tliey are perfectly clean

and quite dry. The gooseberries should be

picked when green and hard, and before they get

too large. For bottling they ought always to

be picked in the same condition as that in which

they are tised for green gooseberry tart. Before

putting the fruit into the bottles it should be

topped and tailed, and to ensure a good appear-

ance when finished it is always best to grade the

fruit and only put berries in which are the same

si?e, rejecting any that are too large and not

sound, or are disfigured in any way. These can

always be used up in the preservnng-pan. Pack

the fruit closely into the jaxs without bruising

to within an inch of the top, and fill up with cold

water or sjTup to the very top of the bottle.

Do not put on the cap at once, as the water often

sinks when it has worked its way down among

the fruit. If this happens the bottles should

be filled up again, as the fruit ought always to be

well covered.

Capping the Bottles. - The bottles are now

ready for capping, and much of the success

depends upon the care taken in capping. The

india-rubber rings are next put on. Have ready

a basin of hot water, and before laying the ring

on the mouth of the bottle dip it into hot water

for a second or two. This makes the rubber

more flexible and more likely to lie flat, which

is an important point. When the ring is in its

place put on the metal cap. Care must be taken

to place it on the bottle perfectly straight. The

spring clip is then put on, and the bottle is ready

to go into the steriliser. Imperfect capping is

often due to the ring or the cap ^ being care-

lessly put on. This allows the air to get in,

and prevents the bottle becoming hermetically

sealed, as it should be.

Sterilising the Fruit. - The bottles are now

placed in the steriliser. They should stand

just clear of each other. A sufficient quantity

of cold water is put in to cover the bottle three

parts of the, way up. The lid is then put on

and the thermometer screwed into its socket.

The temperature generally registered at this

stage is about 60№. It is very gradually allowed

to rise until it reaches 155№. An increase of two

degrees a minute is enough. If the temperature

is allowed to go up with a rush the skin of the

fruit in the bottles will be cracked. It nearly

always takes an hour, if not more, before the

required temperature is reached. The bottles

should be kept at 155№ for forty-five minutes.

If gas or oil is used for the heating this is easily

done by regulating the flame. At the end of

forty-five minutes the bottles are taken out and

put to cool. If a screw-topped bottle is used

the loose rim is now tightly screwed down.

\Vhere the spring clip is used it is loft on till

the bottles are quite cold. \Vlaen tliis stage has

been reached (probably the next day) each

bottle should be examined to see if the cap is

perfectly tight ; if so it has become hermetically

sealed, and will only move by presstu-e from

without, such as the insertion of a knife between,

cap and rubber ring to raise it. This will be

a proof of the fruit keeping. If any are found

imperfectly capped they should be re-sterilised ;

but a careful examination should be made of the

cap to see if it fits properly or not, as a cer-

tain percentage of those sent out are sure to

be faulty.

Cherries. - The Kentish cherry is excellent for

preserving in this way. Pick the cherries off

their stalks and pack in the bottles. The fruit

should be firm but nearly ripe. \Vlien packing

shake the bottle gently up and down so that

the fruit may fit in closely. If the fruit is

pricked at one end with a needle it prevents

bursting. Fill up the bottles with syrup or

water. Proceed as indicated in the foregoing

recipe and sterilise at 150№. Another method

is to split the cherries in half with a sharp knife,

take out the stones, crack sonr.e, and return

the kernels to the bottles wheji packing. This

latter method keeps the fruit a beautiful colour,

but it would be well to use syrup instead of

water, because, preserved in this way, they are

richer in flavour and appearance.

Raspberries and Red Currants. - ^Raspberries

and currants together make one of the very

best fruits for winter use. They are always

liked, and as they keep their coloiu- well when

bottled they look appetising. Discrimination

should be used in the weather for bottling, and

a specially dry day should be chosen for doing

soft fruits, for if saturated with rain they lose

their flavour, and do not keep as well as when

picked on a warm dry day. The oiirrants

should be carefully picked off their stalks and

also the raspberries. Place a layer of raopberries

about one inch thick first in the bottle, and

shake gently down ; then place a layer of red

currants. Proceed in this manner till the

bottles are filled to within an inch of the top.

Fill up and proceed as in the foregoing recipes.

Sterilise at 155№.

Syrup for Bottled Fruits. - Sometimes it is

desirable to bottle the fruit in syrup instead of

water only. The following is a good recipe :

To every quart of water allow half a pound of

the best cane sugar. Bring to the boil and con-

tinue to boil at 212№ for half-an-hour, taking caro

to skim when necessary. Pour the syrup into

a vessel and keep till quite cold before pouring

over the fruits.

The foregoing directions can be applied,

broadly speaking, to all soft fruits enumerated

GUIDE TO COOKERY

235

at the commencement of the chapter. The tem-

perature must also depend upon the quality of

the fruit. K young and tender 155№-160№ is a

usual standard. The time occupied in sterilis-

ing varies with the fruit ; larger frmt, such as

plums, require twenty-five minutes, pears one

hour, apricots forty-five minutes, poaches forty-

five minutes, tomatoes thirty minutes, rhubarb

twenty minutes.

Plums. - Plums should be quite freshly gathered

for bottling, and only those of a fairly good

size should be used. The smaller plums can

always be turned into jam. The fruit should be

quite firm and not quite ripe. For all the stone

fruits it is better to use the larger bottles, as

with the smaller bottles the mouths are not

large enough to allow tlie insertion of any very

fine fruit. The packing of plums in the bottles

is an important item, because if the fruit is not

proper 1}- packed the bottles present a very ugly

appearance when finished. To pack properly

the fruit must be graded, and plums chosen as

near of a size as possible. It is always best to

make a good beginning by getting three even

fruits if possible into the bottom of a bottle.

When the lowest round is started properly the

rest of the packing is fairly simple. The bottles

should be gentlj' shaken from side to side, and a

round piece of wood with a blunt end should be

used to help to slide the fruit gently into place.

Great care must be taken not on any account to

break the skin. Some people prick their fruit

with a steel knitting-needle at the stalk end to

prevent the skin breaking, but we have serious

doubts whether anything is gained by so doing.

The bottles, after packing, are filled up with

syrup or water. When very large plums are

used, they may be cut in half with a dessert-

knife, and the stones extracted and cracked.

Tlie kernels may then be distributed among the

fruit in the bottles.

Sterilising Plums.- When placed in the

steriliser the temperature should be brought

up very gradually till it reaches 160№. If the

plums are in good condition the temperature

should rise to this point without the skin crack-

ing, but if the fruit is at all soft 155№ will be

sufficient. Victorieis, Czars, and Monachs are

the best varieties for preserving. The well-

known Pershore plum must not bo forgotten, as

it bottles admirably. Damsons can be bottled

in the same way.

Apricots,Peaches,and Nectarines. - These fruits,

unless quite small, should be cut in halves,

always remembering to use a dessert -knife, as a

steel knife will not only make the fniit taste

but mark it and turn it brown or black. The

stones should be cracked and some of the

kernels placed amongst the fruit when packing.

The packing of the fruit is a slightlj' difficult

operation. The halves should overlap each

other evenly up the sides of the bottle, no space

being left. Before trying packing of this sort

it would be well to purchase a properly packed

bottle and use it as a modeL Care must be taken

that all the juice which the fruit loses when it is

being cut is saved and put into the bottles with

the kernels. This can be done by halving the

fruit on a plate. As these are choice fruits,

syrup may be used in the bottling instead of

water. When used the fruit must not be ripe,

but quite firm. Care must be taken not to

bruise it when placing in the bottles. Bring

them gradually up to a temperature of 155№,

following in all cases the general directions for

bottling.

Apples and Pears must be carefully and evenly

peeled before bottling. They should be cut

down the middle as already ad\ased for peaches,

&c., removing the cores. Have ready a basin

of water into which some lemon juice has been

8quee:?ed ; drop the fruit into this, and then

fiU the bottles with the fruit so prepared, and at

once add the water or syrup. If there is any

delay the fi-uit will turn brown, and it is to

prevent this happening that it is dropped into the

basin of water, the lemon juice keeping it white.

Tomatoes may be taken either as fruit or

vegetable. Generally they come under the head

of the latter, but as either they are most excellent

bottled. They require a little more trouble

than most other fruits to bottle successfully.

They should be used small, and just coloured,

as they have to be done at a high temperatxire,

in order to ensure complete sterilisation. In

places where tomatoes are grown in quantities

the small ones are often reserved for bottUng.

Pack in bottles as directed for plums, and cover

with water. Bring the temperature up to 170№.

Take out of the steriliser after an hour at this

temperature, and leave for twenty -foxir hours ;

then repeat sterilisation at 170№. Again leave

for two or three days, and again sterilise at the

same temperature. By doing them thus three

times they will remain like fresh fruit, and can

be kept for any length of time.

THE TABLE '

\ GOOD housewife will not rest content with the fact that the meals in her house are well cooked.

She will also see to it that they are well served, knowing that dainty table equipment and skilful

8er\'ice does much to enliance the enjoyment of the fare provided.

This article deals with all the many important subjects bearing upon table service, including

the fittings and arrangement of the pantry and its contents ; the choice of silver, china, cutlery, and

class : the arrangement of a menu, with order of coxirses ; valuable hints are also given in regard to

the choice of wines, and the rules which govern waiting at table in every refined and well-ordered

house.

THE PANTRY

Where more than one servant is kept a small

pantry is a very necessary apartment in a house,

as it enables the maid who has charge of the

table arrangements to do all her washing up

without interfering with the work of the cook

or getting in her way.

In large establishments the pantry would be

the special sanctum of the butler. In it he

would keep all the silver, glass, and china that

came under his care, as well as the supply of

wine that was required for immediate use.

There would also be a small table or desk at

wluch he could write his orders and make up

his books.

In smaller houses the pantry need not be a

spacious apartment, but even a small place

conveniently fitted up will be found a great

convenience, not only to the table-maid but

also to the ladies of the house, as it is a

place where they can do any washing of tea

dishes or fine china, preparing of dessert, cutting

bread and butter for afternoon tea, and the

arranging of flowers, &c., without having to

enter the cook's domain.

A pantry should be fitted with a small sink

with hot and cold water - supply. At the

side of the sink there should bo a good -sized

draining-board on which wet dishes can bo

placed, above the sink a plate-rack in which

to drain plates, wlulo a small cupboard fitted

underneath would be a useful receptacle for

plate powder, silver brushes, furniture polish,

ammonia, soap powder, and other indispensable

articles for cleaning purposes. Another neces-

sary fitting is a dresser. It should be provided

wiih two or throo drawers in which glass cloths,

dusters, leathers, and furniture sheets could bo

kept, one drawer being reserved for the maid's

private use. The lower part of the dresser should

be fitted with cupboards di\'ided off into separate

portions. One part might bo reserved for clean-

ing utensils, another for larger dishes, and a third

as a small store for sugar, jam, butter, &c. Then

above the dresser there should be a nice high

narrow cupboard, with sliding glass doors if

possible, for holding china, glass, cruets, sugar

basins, jam dishes, &c. If this is large enough

one portion of it might hold a reserve supply

of china and glass and be kept locked.

Other useful fittings would be a small pulley

or rail for drying towels and a rack for holding

two or three brushes.

If room permits there might be a good solid

table in the pantry and also a chair on which

the maid could sit down while doing her silver

cleaning and other work of the kind.

The floor should be covered with cork carpet

or Unoleum and the walls papered v.'iih a good

washing paper or coated with a light-colovired

ripolin or distemper, which could easily be re-

newed when dirty.

The pantry should contain all that the table-

maid requires for cleaning purposes, and the

sink must be supplied \\ath one or two tubs

and other necessary appliances for washing up.

It is a good plan also to hang up somowliore in

the pantry a list of all glass, cliina, &c. ; this list

shoiiid be checked periodically by the mistress

and servant together.

Cleanliness and order in the pantry are very

important. Each time the sink is used it should

be scrubbed out with hot water and then thor-

oughly rinsed with cold. Tho dresser and table

should be scrubbed onoe a week and tho floor

washed when necessary. No dirty towels or

dish cloths should be seen lying about, and a

pride should be taken in the neat arrangement

of the cupboards. (For " Washing Up," see p. 76.)

SILVER AND CUTLERY

Choice of Silver. - ^There are few families,

except perhaps the very wealthy, who care to

use solid table silver every day, for even if they

THE TABLE

237

are fortunate enough to possess a set it is care-

fvilly guarded under lock and key and only

brought out on special occasions, and with the

exception perhaps of a few small articles, such as

salt and mustard spoons, pepperettes, butter-

knives, sugar-tongs, electro-plate is rnade to do

duty for ordinary use.

Although silver costs about three times as

much as electro -plate, it must be remembered

that it will last for years without requii-ing any

repair, and can even be handed down from

generation to generation.

Solid silver is sold by weight and fluctuates

a little in price, but the current price for table

silver is about the following : - table-spoons and

forks from £i, 12s. per dozen, dessert-spoons

and forks from £2, 15s. per dozen, and tea-spoons

from 30s. per doz;en.

SoUd silver is one of the things which can

often be bought very well second-hand, and in

most large towns reliable shops are to be found

where it can be obtained at fairly moderate

prices.

Electro-Plate. - A good quality should always

be bought, as the plating soon wears off the

cheaper makes. Good electro-plate ought to

last from twenty to thirty years without re-

quiring any renewing. For those who have only

a small amount to spend on silver and who are

not fortunate enough to have it given to them

as a present when they start housekeeping, it is

better to purchase a little of a good quaUty

rather than full sets of an inferior kind. There

are several regulation patterns such as Old

English, King's, Bead or Thread, and Rat Tail,

so that additions can al'^ays be made by degrees,

as the best plated goods are sold by tlae single

article when required. The above patterns are

all simple and will easily be kept in order ; in

fact, heavily ornamented patterns are rarely

seen nowadays.

The price of electro-plate varies, but, roughly

speaking, good electro-plate of a quality that

will last for j'ears can be had at the following

prices : - table-spoons and forks from 25s. per

dozen, dessert-spoons and forks from 19s. 6d.

per dozen, and tea-spoons from 9s. per dozen.

When electro-plate begins to look shabby it

can be replated for about the followingcharges: -

table-spoons and forks from 17s. 6d. per dozen ;

dessert-spoons and forks from 13s. per dozen,

and tea-spoons from 7a. per dozen. (For the

Cleaning of Silver, see p. 74.)

Choice ol Cutlery. - As in the case of electro-

plate, so with cutlery, a low-priced article is the

Knife with Throagh-Tang Rivet.

reverse of economical ; not only will the handles

of cheap knives be badly fixed, but the blades will

be made of a soft steel which never takes a

proper edge. It is a wise policy, therefore, to

buy knives the blades of which are made of tho

best Sheffield steel, and to see that they are fixed

to the handles with what is called the through-

tang rivet, which never comes undone.

There is a choice of materials for the handles,

the cheapest of which are bone and horn ; then

comes ivorine and ivoride, which is the nearest

appoach to real ivory that can possibly be made ;

and, lastly, fine African ivory and sterhng silver-

plated handles.

Real ivory and sterling silver are rather

expensive articles, and most people have to

content themselves with one of the cheaper

materials. The following will be a fair price to

pay for really good articles : -

Best white Bone Handles with Through-Tang : -

Table-knives from 133. 6d. per dozen, dessert-

knives from I2s. per dozen, joint or game

carvers from 5s. per pair, steel Is. 9d.

Imitation Ivory Handles : - Table-knives from

17s. 6d. per dozien, dessert-knives from 14s. per

dozen, joint or game carvers from 6s. per pair,

steel 2s. 4d.

African Ivory Handles : - Table-knives from

38s. per dozen, dessert-knives from 30s. per

dozen, joint or game carvers from 12s. 6d. per

pair, steel 4s. 3d.

Knives will cost about 2s. 6d. per dozien less

without the tang fastening. New blades can

always be fitted to good ivory handles at a

reasonable charge. (For the Care and Cleaning

of Knives, see p. 76.)

CHINA AND GLASS

Choice of China. - Now that both china and

glass can be bought at such moderate prices and

in such artistic shapes and pretty colours, there

is no excuse for any one to have what is chipped

and ugly on theu- tables. Although some of

the china dealers of to-day make specialities

of tea and dinner services of the most gaudy

colouring and in the most impossible patterns,

and ornament them with a liberal supply of

gilt, there are other manufacturers who reproduce

the most tasteful designs of Wedgwood, Spode,

and the famous old Crown Derby Wares.

The choice of china is very much a matter

of taste and circumstances, and space will not

permit of giving many details regarding designs

and price, as these are so niamerous and varied.

Before selecting it is advisable to send for the

catalogues of some of the largest firms and to

visit their show-rooms. Slany valuable ideas

may be gleaned in this way.

The frugal housewife whoso means are limited

and who will in all probability have to leave

her china in the hands of inexperienced servants,

will do well to buy the strong make of stone-

ware or semi-porcelain for every-day use and

to choose a style which can be renewed when

pieces are broken.

Such patterns as the willow, delf, rose-bud.

238

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

-white fluted, and wliite with a gilt or coloured

band are always stocked. Strong colouring

should always be avoided whether for tea,

breakfast, or dinner services, and it must be re-

membered that the price will bo influenced very

much by the amount of good gilt and also

■upon the novelty of the design and shape.

A Dinner Service. - W\\en choosing a dinner

service it is better to select one in which the

centre of the dishes and plates is white, as

food always looks more appetising when served

on a light surface. Choose also a porcelain

that will wear well and that will not chip and

crack with the heat. China can either be bought

in largo or small sets for six or twelve persons,

or single pieces can be bought in quite a number

of different patterns by paying at a little higher

rate. A nice set of what is called the " cottage "

size can be bought from a guinea upwards con-

sisting of the following pieces, while a medivun

set will cost from about £1, l-4s. 6d. upwards -

Cottage Set (52 pieces) : - Twelve meat plates,

twelve pudding or pie plates, twelve cheese

plates, two covered dishes, six meat dishes, two

sauce tureens.

Medium Set (81 pieces) : - ^Twenty-four meat

plates, twenty -four pie plates, twelve soup

plates, seven dishes, two covered dishes, two

sauce tureens, one soup tureen, one fish drainer.

It must be remembered that in houses where

there are a number of people or where small

dinner-parties are given, the number of plates

must not be too limited.

Tea and Breakfast Sets. - A small tea and

breakfast service in plain ware can be bought for

6s. or 7s. and upwards, and in china from 16s. to

17s. and upwards. They would consist of the

following pieces : -

Tea Set (40 pieces) : - ^Twelve tea-cups and

saucers, twelve tea plates, two cake plates, one

slop basin, one cream jug.

Breakfcutt Set for Six (29 pieces) : - Six cups and

saucers, six plates, two cake plates, one slop

basin, one eugar basin, one milk jug, six egg cups.

Choice of Glass. - Not a little of the handsome

appearance of a well-set dinner -table may be

ascribed to its array of shining well-kept and

well-polished glass. The table glass should

always be of as good a quality as possible, and

the design should bo characterised by its rffinod

simplicity. Too much design and ornamentation

is a mistake, as it tends to rob the glass of that

bright transparency which forms the great charm

of its appearance. But here, again, unless the

glass is always under the care of a reliable ser-

vant, it is best to buy it of not too fine a quality

and of a design that can be easily replaced. Very

th'n glass is no doubt appreciated by those who

like dainty articles, but it requires the utmost

care in the washing and drying. When cut glass

cannot bo afforded, plain thinnish glass or plain

glass with a little engraving looks the best.

Very good plain tumblers can be had from 4d.

each or with a little engraving from 6s. 6d. per

dozen, while a cut glaiss tumbler will cost from

about Is. upwards.

Wine-glasses are made in various sizes to suit

the different wines for which they are used ;

the form changes with fashion, but they should

always match the tumblers in quality and design.

Coloured wine-glasses were at one time much

in vogue, but people of taste now appreciate

the fact that the wliite wine -glasses of tasteful

design are infinitely preferable.

Decanters also should be carefully chosen

with due regard to their design. More orna-

mentation in the way of cutting or engraNang is

allowable in the case of all kinds of decanters.

HOME DINNERS

No matter how simplo a meal may bo, it

should be put neatly upon the table and made

attractive to the eye. There are certain table

refinements wliich are within the reach of the

very humblest ; they may not be essentials, but

they are beyond doubt among the ameliorating

influences of life which help to cultivate the

mind and improve the manners. The every-day

dinner should be as carefully prepared as the

more formal meal when visitors are expected.

The decoration of the table may be simpler, the

number of courses fewer, and the dishes less

expensive, but so far as the appointments are

concerned they should receive the same attention.

Under these conditions if paterfamilias should

take it into his head to bring in a friend to dinner

without any previous notification of his intention

of so doing, no disturbance will be caused by the

arrival of the unexpected guest - rather \vill he

be looked upon as a welcome addition to the

family party.

The dinner -hour mvist be chosen with due

regard to the needs and employments of the

various members of the household, and, if

possible, let it be at an hour when it does not

require to be hurried over. It should bo made

a time of relaxation, when there can be pleasant

and cheerful conversation, and worries and care

are, for tho moment at least, laid aside. It is

a well-known fact that a cheerful frame of

mind is a valuable aid to digestion.

Having fixed upon an hour see that the meal

is punctually attended and punctually served.

The very best cooking will be spoiled if the

dinner has to bo kept back owing to the un-

punctuality of some member of the family,

while, on the other hand, tho cook who cannot

send up a dinner to time should remember that

a meal that has to be waited for often fails to

be appreciated. Regularity is also good from

a health point of view, and for those who are

delicate it is all the more important.

The dishes given may be as simple and in-

expensive as possible, but let them bo well

cooked and nicely served.

THE TABLE

239

Then the arrangement is an important con-

sideration- we do not all possess beautiful china

and glass, and the choicest silver and damask,

but it is possible to have even the simplest things

spotlessly clean and bright and to have them

arranged with order and taste.

And, again, no table should be considered

properly laid unless decorated with some flowers

or ferns. Some people may consider this an

extravagance, but a small quantity is all that

is required, and if flowers are scarce or too

expensive, any plant which looks fresh and

healthy or even some pretty foliage can take

their place.

The dining-room itself ought to be in order

and free from dust, and there should be a tidy

fireplace and a bright fire burning in the grate

if the weather is cold. Also pay attention to

the ventilation of the room, as a stuffy atmos-

phere tends to spoil the appetite ; so if the room

has been occupied beforehand, let the windows

be thrown open for a few minutes at least before

the meal is served.

The clean cloth, the bright silver and glass,

the tidy and pleasant room with the tasteful floral

decoration will all add to the enjoyment of the

meal. It may not be every one who bestows

direct attention upon these details, but they

affect the naind none the less. There is some-

thing elevating in beauty and order, whereas

an untidy table is just as degrading as a slovenly

dress. Let us make the home dinner as attrac-

tive as possible, and the simplest meal will then

give satisfaction.

SETTING -^HE TABLE

The Informal Dinner. - Before the actual laying

of the cloth there are certain preliminaries in the

pantry, or in the kitchen if there is no pantry,

which should be attended to. The cruets, for

instance, will require attention. The salt-

cellars should be filled with fine salt free from

lumps, the surface made perfectly smooth, and

a clean bright spoon laid across the top. The

mustard-pots should be filled with well-made

mustard. ^Vhen fresh mustard is required,

mix it first in a small cup and never in the pot

itself. It must be mixed with a little water

and beaten until perfectly smooth, and be of a

consistency that will not run off the side of the

plate. A pinch of salt should always be added.

If French mustard is preferred, mix the dry

mustard with vinegar instead of water, or half

vinegar and half water. Tarragon vinegar is

best. Tl)e pepperettes should also be well

filled with wliite pepper, black being unsuitable

for table use. Large cruets are not used now

as a rule, but if bottles of any kind are put on

the table, they should be clean and bright and

the stands themselves kept in good order.

Next consider the number of people to be

laid for, and count out the glasses reqviired and

rub them up, and fill the water-bottles with

fresh water. Collect the necessary knives and

examine the steel parts to see that they are free

from tarnish. The bread too that is required

should be put on the platter or small pieces put

in a bread-basket. All these articles should be

put on a tray and carried to the dining-room

as soon as the table-cloth and sideboard-cloth

have been laid.

Then in the dining-room itseK see that the

room is in order and well ventilated and the

fireplace tidy before beginning to lay the cloth.

A dining-room table is usually made with

leaves which can be taken out and put in as

required according to the number of persons to

be seated. An oval or round table is considered

more sociable than a square or oblong one and

will accommodate more people, but the shape

is of little importance as long as the table is of a

suitable height and size for individual needs.

An under-covering or " silence cloth " should

first be laid on the table to prevent hot dishes

spoiling the polish of the wood, to give the table-

cloth a smoother and better appearance, and

also to deaden the sound when silver, dishes, &c.,

are laid down. This can either be an old

woollen table-cloth of some light colovir, a piece

of blanket or serge, or a piece of cotton felt-

ing or interlining sold for the purpose. This

silence cloth should be about six inches larger

than the table all round, and to keep it in position

it may either be tied to the four legs by means

of tapes, or hemmed and drawn up beneath the

edges with a running string.

The table-cloth itself must be laid on per-

fectly even and as smoothly as possible, the

centre of the cloth in the centre of the table, and

the sides hanging gracefully with the creases in

a straight line. As the appearance of the table

will depend very much on the kind of table-

cloth used, an effort should be made to have this

as clean and vmruffled as possible.

Next lay a carving-cloth at one or both ends of

the table or wherever there is carving or serving

to be done. This cloth may either be sqxiare or

oblong - ^very pretty cloths with hem-stitched

or fringed edges are sold for the pm-pose, but,

failing these, an ordinary serviette of a large

size will do very well.

Spread the sideboard also with a cloth and the

dinner-waggon or butler's tray if required. In

small houses and flats it is sometimes more con-

venient to have the latter placed just outside

the dining-room door.

Now put the flowers or any other decoration

on the table (see p. 253), as this is more easily

arranged before the glasses, &c., are placed on

the table.

In the allowance of space a good rule to go

by is to allow twenty inches at least for each

person's accommodation, but if the table is

large a little more room does not matter. It is

a good plan to place round the serviettes before

240

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

laj'ing the rest of the cover, as this vnll give

an idea of the amount of space available. Tho

fancy and artistic folding of sorvdottes is quite

out of fasliion for tho moment and is only to be

Been in hotels and restaurants. When clean

they should be simply folded, and after they have

been used put into rings.

The silver required must next bo taken from

the sideboard and everj-thing must bo carried

to the table on a tray and not in the hands.

Put a table-knife at tho right-hand side and a

fork at the left for each person, leaving room for

a plate to be placed between, and place a small

dessert-spoon and fork horiz;ontally across tho

top, the handle of tho spoon to tho right-hand

side and that of tho fork to the left. If fish is

to be served, place a fish-knife and fork outside

the other knife and fork, as they will bo required

first ; if soup, a table-spoon on the right-hand

side, and if cheese, a small knife at the right-

hand side next the plate. Everytliing must be

placed evenly and about an inch up from the

edge of the table.

Next put down the spoons and carving-knives

and forks that are required for serving the

different dishes, and small cruets and water-

bottles at a convenient distance down the table.

It is no longer tho custom to put dinner-mats on

the table, but those made of asbestos may bo

placed under tho cloth when there is danger of

very hot dishes spoiling the table.

The glasses and bottles of water should be

placed on the table almost last - a tumbler at

tho right-hand side of each person and a wine-

glass for each kind of wine that is to be served.

The bread may either bo put round, a piece to

each person, or left in the bread-basket to bo

handed.

The sideboard should be arranged as carefully

as the table, and everything that is required for

after use placed upon it, such as a few extra

knives, forks, and spoons, extra bread, a basket

for receiving dirty knives and silver, and a

crumb brush and tray. See also that the chairs

arc put in their places before bringing in tho first

couree and announcing that the meal is ready.

A DInner-Party. - Sermce A la Russe. - Adinner-

pjurty ranks highest among entertainments, and

time and thought aro required if it is to bo mado

a succeas. There are prescribed rules for tho

sending out of tho invitation-s, the arranging

of the guests, and the manner of serving tho

dinner (see Etiquette). The most popular way

of serving a dinner at present is d ^ Russe.

By this mode all tho carving and serving is done

from the sido-tablo and none of the dishes are

placed on tho dining-table itself. It is certainly

a much more luxurious and pleasant method

than the old-fashioned stylo of having all tho

helping done by tho host and hostess, who by

this means are loft froo to attend to their guests

and enter more fully into tho conversation. It

means, however, a more elaborate service a" far

as waiting is concerned and one wliich cannot be

carried out whore there is only one table-maid.

On the other hand, a dinner of tliis kind is more

economical as regards food. \Vhon served from

tho side the quantity can bo more exactly

calculated and smaller joints can bo supplied,

whereas if tho dishes aro put on tho tablo they

must be handsome ones and there must be more

than sufficient to go round. \Vlien dinner tl la

Russe is found too troublescime, a compromise

between the two styles is very often adopted,

some of tho dishes, such as soup and joints, being

served from the tablo and entremets handed

round in the samo manner as the entrees.

A dirmer-party is looked upon by many

people as a very difficult form of entertainment,

and they will hesitate to give one for fear of its

nob being a success.

Certainly when one possesses a handsome

dinner service, good silver and glass and well-

trained servants it is a comparatively easy matter,

but these are conditions which cannot always

be fulfilled. But still this should not debar

the housewife of more modest means from the

pleasure of giving a little dinner-party to her

friends, as a simple dinner well planned is very

often more enjoyable than a very formal affair.

There is no occasion to have things elaborate

and costly, and if wo as a nation were a little

loss pretentious in our tastes, pleasant social

intercourse would be less rare. An invitation

to a dirmer is always considered a greater com-

pliment than one to an " At Homo." It is

an indication of a wish for greater intimacy,

for dinner-parties serve to place us in closer

touch with our friends than is the case with

almost any other social gathering.

If dinner a la Russe is decided on preparations

should be commenced in good time so that there

need be no cause for a hurry and bustle at the

last minute. If special dishes, glass and silver

are to be ussd for tho occasion tliey should be

looked out early in tho day and made clean and

ready for tho table.

Tho setting of tho table is very much tho same

as for tho more simple meal, only no carving-

cloths will bo required and no spoons and forks

for serving tho different dishes.

Some possessors of polished oak and mahogany

tables have adopted tho fashion of replacing the

large table-cloth with small mats of fine damask

and rich lace laid before each guest and below

the various dishes, but this is by no means a

prevailing fashion. Another custom is to have

small tables at which four or six persons can be

seated instead of one largo tablo, as this is con-

sidered a little more sociable and conducive of

conversation.

As regards decoration tho tendency is to have

it as light as possible, but to have tho damask

of tho whitest and finest that can be afforded.

(For Table Decoration, seo p. 253.)

Tho covers mtist not consist of too many

THE TABLE

241

knives and forks - ^it is always better to put

down others as the meal proceeds than to crowd

the table in any way - but they must always be

arranged so that the diner commences with

those on the outside. The necessary glasses

must be put at the right-hand side, with the

highest one placed farthest away to avoid its

being knocked over. Tlie number of glasses

vnll depend upon the wines to be served - three

(sherry, claret, and champagne) is a very usual

number, and small tumblers should be provided

for non-wine-drinkers. The serviettes should be

simply doubled and a small roll or some bread

sticks laid to each guest. When name cards are

used they must be clearly written and placed

beside each cover in such a way as to avoid all

confusion later. A menu card should be allowed

for each two or three people. The fruit may or

may not be placed on the table from the begin-

ning ; this is entirely a matter of taste, but small

bon-bon dishes containing salted almonds or

sweets are generally placed at intervals down

the table or arranged amongst the decorations.

A good deal will depend on the Ughting of the

room, and as the table will be the chief attraction

for the time being, the Ught ought to be centred

on that while the rest of the room may be in

shadow. If there is a large centre-light it

should have a shade corresponding in colour to

the flowers used or else forming a pleasing con-

trast. The ploasantest light is perhaps from

shaded candles or small electric lights placed at

intervals down the table. If candles are used

they should be lighted at least fifteen minutes

before dinner commences in order to ensure

steady burning.

The sideboard will also require careful pre-

paration. All wine decanters and extra glasses

should be placed well to the back, and the dessert

plates, finger bowls and doyleys, extra knives

and forks and the like laid neatly in the front.

When the fruit is not placed on the table that

also must find a place on the sideboard until

required. Champagne, hook, and other wines

that are not decanted should be placed under-

neath on the floor.

The carving -table is another important item

in the diner A la Russe. It must be furnished

with a good light, and everything in the way

of knives, forks, and spoons must be placed in

readiness for the carver dixring the different

courses of the dinner.

The temporatiire of the room must also be

thought of ; it must be well aired and still

warm and comfortable. It must be remem-

bered that the ladies will bo in light attire and

the room must not strike cliilly. Many a good

dinner has been spoilt by inattention to this

point. If windows have to be opened a little

way it is generally possible by a careful adjust-

ment of screens to prevent the draught from

beating down upon the persons seated.

Chairs must be put in position, and the first

course, hors d'oeuvres or soup, brought to the

room before the meal is announced.

A word might be said here about the drawing-

room fire ; it ought to be one of the maid's duties

to attend to this and to see that it is not allowed

to bum too low. A bright fire ought to await

the guests when they return from dinner.

WAITING AT TABLE

General Directions for Waiting at Dinner. -If a

dinner is to be a success the waiting must be above

reproach. Perhaps nothing tends so much to spoil

the good effect of a meal as inferior service ; then,

no matter how excellent the cooking, nor how

pretty and dainty the table, the result will not

be satisfactory. If there are long pauses between

the courses, if the waitress is clumsy and noisy in

her movements and inattentive to the needs of

the company, the finest dinner will be marred.

Even if the meal be but a simple homely one

with one maid in attendance a mistress should

make a point of having the service as perfect as

it is possible, as intelligent and proficient waiting

at once stamps the orderly and well-regulated

household.

The maid who waits at table should be neatly

dressed in a well-brushed black frock and spot-

less apron, collar and cuffs, and neat cap ; or a

clean and tidy print gown may take the place

of the stuff dress at an early dinner or luncheon

in small households when the maid has house-

work to do after the meal is served. Her hair

must be neatly done without any untidy ends

flying about, and she ought to pay particular

attention to her hands and nails to keep them

clean and in good order. If the lighting of fires

and cleaning of stoves is part of her work she

ought to be careful to wear gloves for the piorpose,

as it is almost impossible to remove black-lead

from the hands when once it has sunk into the

skin. She ought also to keep the skins of lemons

to rub on her hands, as this helps to remove any

stains.

A good waitress must be quick and light in her

movements and at the same time quiet and gentle.

Although it is of paramount importance to have

the courses served quickly one after the other

there must bo no appearance of hm-ry ; there

is a happy medium between long waits and rush-

ing people through, scarcely lea\'ing them time

to finish what is on their plates. The service

should be carried on as noiselessly as possible ;

there mu.st be no clatter of dishes nor rattling of

knives and forks. The ^waitress must have all

her wits about her and be ever on the alert to

see what is wanted, and ready to give her whole

attention to the work in hand. Forethought is

another very necessary quality - she ought to

consider beforehand what will be required for

the meal so that there need be no unnecessary

moving about or leaving the room when onoe

the meal is served.

242

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

She must try to cultivate a pleasant and

gracious manner, being thoughtful for the com-

fort of those she is serving and ready to fore-

stall their weuits. She must not take notice

of any conversation that is going on, nor lot

a joke or funny story distract her thoughts.

Should any of tho company happen to bo a

little peculiar in manner and perhaps depart

from the orderly rules of beha\'iour, the waitress

must not appear to observe it, and if at any time

an accident should occur, such as the spilling of

a glass of wine or water, she must be ready to put

the matter right without showing any signs of

annoyance.

When the meal is ready, the cheurs in their

places and everytliing in order, the maid ought to

see that doors leading into all kitchen and back

premises are shut ; then when the first course

is placed upon the table the dinner may be

announced. Tliis may be done either by sound-

ing a gong, ringing a bell, or by going to the

drawing-room and saying in a clear voice,

" Dinner is served " or " Dinner is on the table.

Madam." The drawing-room door should then

be left open, and the maid, returning to the

dining-room, should take up her position there.

When the courses are served from the table,

as is frequently the case at the ordinary family

dinner, the waitress should stand on the left-

liand side of the one who serves and commence

by removing the cover if one is in use. At

present tho tendency is to abolish dish covers,

although in many houses, especially where old-

fashioned customs prevail, they are still to be

seen. A cover must be taken oS and tvirned

Tip quickly to prevent any drops of steam from

falling on the table-cloth.

A waitress should accustom herself to carry

two things at a time, one in each hand, as for

instance a platљ of soup in one hand and a plate

of crofltons in the other, a plate of tneat in the

right hand and a vegetable or sauco in the left,

or a plate of meat in each hand. Vegetable and

sauces are not placed upon the table when a maid

is in constant attendance ; they are kept on the

sideboard and handed - an attentive servant

will see at once when they are required. If the

maid leaves the room, she usually puts them

down on the table after she has passed them

round.

When a dish is handed round it must be

held steadily and firmly on a finger napkin and

at a convenient height, so that the person seated

may find no difficulty in helping himself. A

table-spoon or fork and spoon, according to what

is required, must bo placed in the dish in readiness.

Except at the formal dinner it is customary

also to ask if a little more meat or pudding, &c.,

is desired before the plate is removed.

Do not remove a soup tureen nor any dish

being served until every one at the table has

finished that particular course.

Soiled plates must be removed at once when

finished with ; they should never be allowed to

remain in front of the person who has used them.

They must be removed quietly, and care must

bo taken not to drop the knife or silver. A plate

may be taken in each hand and they should be

carried at once to the sideboard, the knives and

silver placed in the box or basket placed there

for the purpose, and the plates piled without

noise one on the top of the other or put into a

plate-carrier. A tray or basket must never be

carried roimd the table to receive the knives and

silver from the plates, although the reverse is

the case with the dishes from which moat, &c.,

has been served. A carving-knife and fork

should never be removed on the dish, as being

large and heavy they would be very liable to

fall, but a small tray for the purpose should be

brought to the table to receive them. The dishes

themselves must be removed carefully in order

that no grease or gravy be spilt.

Before sweets and dessert, remove on a small

tray all cruets and salt-cellars and any knives,

forks, spoons, and glasses that will not be re-

quired. Also take away the carving cloth if one

has been \ised. All crumbs should then be very

carefully removed from the left-hand side of

each person seated with a brush or crumb scoop

on to a small tray or silver waiter.

A waitress must never reach across a person

seated to put down or remove anything from the

table, but should walk quietly to the right or

left-hand side as required.

If any extra knives or silver are required they

should be put down on the table in thoir proper

place with the empty plate before the serving of

a course - they must never be offered on a tray.

If more bread is asked for small pieces should

be handed in a bread-basket or on a plate. If

any small condiment is wanted it should be

handed on a small tray or silver salver.

\Vhen dinner is served in the old-fashioned

way it is quite possible for one maid who is

quick and clever to wait upon six or even eighl

people, although of course the service can be

better performed when there are two in attend-

ance, or if some assistance can be given bj'

dishes being brought from the kitchen to tho

dining-room door and soiled plates carried away.

If two maids are in attendance, the head

servant passes round the fish and the second

follows with tho sauco and other accompani-

ments ; tho head passes the meat and the second

the vegetables, and so on. The principal servant

should never leave the room ; the younger maid

should inform the cook as soon as a course has

been served and prepare her to send up the next

at once. The younger maid should also do tho

carrying of the dishes to and from the room.

WTien a maid is single-handed and is obliged

to bo absent for a short time a member of the

family usually rings the bell at the end of each

course.

NoNnces in the art of waiting have sometimes

THE TABLE

243

a little difficulty in knowing at what side a dish

or plate, &c., should be handed or removed. To

these the following hints may be iiseful : -

(1) When there is no choice to be made, the

plate with its contents should be put down at

the right-hand side of the person seated.

(2) When there is a choice, as for instance

two different sweets or two different kinds of

fish, hand these at the left-hand side.

(3) When a dish has to be offered, as in the case

of a side dish or vegetable, carry it to the left-

hand side. It is a good rule to remember that

everything that is offered (except wine) must be

carried to the left-hand side.

(4) Soiled plates should be removed from the

right-hand side.

(5) Clean and empty plates are put down at

the right-hand side.

(6) Wine is offered from the right-hand side

as the glasses are naturally standing in that

position.

Precedence In Serving. - At a family dinner the

lady of the house should be served first unless

she is carving, then the daughters of the house

according to age, and the governess, if there is

one present, and lastly the master of the house

and the sons according to age.

If only one or two guests are present serve

them first, commencing with the ladies and the

principal guest. At a formal dinner-party,

where there are a number of guests, commence

with the lady on the right-hand side of the

host (the principal guest) and continue straight

round the table irrespective of sex. It is not

then the custom to serve the ladies before the

gentlemen. If there ire several maids in

attendance the two sides of the table may be

served simultaneously, commencing with the

lady seated next the host on each side. In the

case of small tables, the one where the principal

guests are seated should be served first.

Hired Coolis and Waitresses. - When the staff

of servants is not sufficiently experienced and a

large and important party is to be given it is

sometimes necessary to hire outside assistance.

Both cooks and waitresses can be hired at the

principal catering establishments ; or very often

they can be heard of through private recom-

mendation, wliich is even better. The usual

fee for such assistance is from 5s. an evening

for a waitress, and from 10s. 6d. a dinner for a

cook.

DRAWING UP A MENU

It requives some skill and experience to make

a good bill of fare ; any miscellaneous collection

of good dishes does not necessarily produce a

first-class menu.

There are several points to bear in mind when

arranging the dishes for a dinner : -

(1) Dishes thai are in season should be chosen.

Although many articles, such as vegetables.

fruit, and fish, can be had out of their proper

season, it must be remembered that an ex-

orbitant price will Kkely be asked for them, and

even at that they will in all probabiUty be

wanting in flavour.

(2) There must be variety in flavour, and the

dishes must follow each other in such a way as

will please the palate. An insipid dish must

not directly follow one that is very tasty, and

if two or three different entrees are served the

most savoxiry one should come last. Tlie same

flavouring must not be repeated in two conse-

cutive dishes.

(3) There must be variety in the method of

cooking and in the character of the different

dishes. It would not do for fried cutlets to

follow fried fish, nor for two braised dishes or

two grills to come together, and so on. A simple

dish should be followed by one a little more

elaborate or vice versd.

(4) There must be variety in colour and

decoration. The dishes must be pleasing to the

eye as well as to the palate, there should be no

sameness, and an element of refinement rather

than ostentation.

(5) The names of the dishes should be written

on the menu cards either in French or in EngUsh,

French is perhaps the more fashionable, but

this is entirely a question of choice. The names

of standard dishes should never be altered,

although more liberty may be taken with the

names of mede-up dishes.

(6) And, lastly, the powers of the cook and

the capabilities of the kitchen-range must be

borne in mind. If the cook is single-handed do

not attempt too much and do not give her a

number of dishes that cannot be finished off

until the last minute. Of course it will always

be possible to have a certain number of dishes

sent in from a caterer, but tliis will add con-

siderably to the expense, and in the end there is

notliing better than good cooking well done at

home. An important point is to give the cook

plenty of notice and explicit directions as to

what will be required.

The different courses of a complete menu will

comprise the following : - ^hors d'ceu\Tes, potage,

poisson, entries, relev6, sorbet, roti, entremets,

dessert, oaf6.

Hors d'(Euvres. - These consist of small

appetising morsels usually served cold, such

as oysters, oUves, anchovies, ca\nare, smoked

salmon, small salads, thin slices of sausage, &c.

They may either be served plain or made up in

some more elaborate style. Small plain biscuits

or thin brown bread and butter may accompany

the plain hors d'oeuvTcs.

Potage (Soup). - Either one or two soups may

be served. If only one it is preferable to have

it clear or of a very light character, especially

if there are a number of courses to follow. If

there are two soups one may bo thick and the

other clear.

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Poisson (Fish). - This may either be plainly

boiled with a sauco or dressed in a more elaborate

fashion, or there may be one dish of each.

Entries. - These may come either before or

aft^T the rclev6 ; in fact, they can bo served

between any of the courses or omitted alto-

gether. They consist of various kinds of made

dishes and ought to be served very daintily. If

more than one is served one might be brown

and the other white, or one might be hot and the

other cold.

Relev6 (or Remove). - ^This consists of a solid

joint cither roasted, boiled, or braised, and a

garnish generally gives the characteristic name.

One vegetable besides potatoes is usually served

with the remove.

Sorbet. - A half - frozen water ice which is

served in cups immediately after the roast.

Roti. - Roast game or poultry visually served

with salad and chip potatoes.

Entremets. - Tliese may be divided into three

classes - ( 1 ) dressed vegetables (legumes) ; (2) sweet

entremets, both hot and cold ; (3) savouries,

which precede the dessert and are usually hot.

Dessert. - Fruits of variovis kinds and pctits

fours or other fancy biscuits.

Coffee. - This must be black - cream being

sers'ed separately.

In a small dinner some of these courses would

be omitted. The number of dishes depends

entirely upon the style of the dinner ; it may

consist of three or four or of eleven or twelve.

For instance, the hors d'oeu\Te3 and sorbet are

seldom given at a small dinner, and either the

relev6 or the rOti would be omitted. One

sweet might follow the last meat course to be

followed by a cheese dish or other savoury.

Ices may either be served in place of a cold

sweet, or they may form a separate course after

the savoury.

HINTS ON SERVING THE DIFFERENT

COURSES

Hors d'CEuvres. - These are frequently placed

on tho plato before dinner is announced -

especially in the case of oysters - or a choice of

several kinds is offered on a small tray.

Soup. - If the soup is served from the side and

tho dinner consists of numerous coiu^es, three-

quarters of a ladleful will bo sufficient to give

as a helping. If there are two different soups,

the waitress should take a plate of each and

offer a choice ; if only one she should take a

plate of soup in one hand and a plate of croutons

or pulled bread in tho other. Parmesan cheese

may also bo served with clear soup.

Fish. - The waitress should take a portion of

fish in the right hand and the sauce or other

accompanimei.t in the left. If there is a choice

she should take a portion of each kind and tho

accompaniments would be offered by a second

waitress.

Entries. - A hot or cold plate as required must

first bo put down to each person, and it must be

seen that they have the necessary knives and

forks. The entree must then be handed with a

spoon and fork in readiness in the dish. Entrees

are alwaj's handed, no matter how simple the

dinner.

Joints and Game. - Unless these have been

carved beforehand, the head waitress must bo

able to help them neatly from tho side and serve

them out in small portions, wliich must bo

handed round followed by their various accom-

paniments.

Salad. - A small salad plate should bo put to

the left of each guest before the salad is carried

round. The salad itself should be mixed at the

side or in the kitchen and handed in the bowl

with the salad spoon and fork in readiness. If

not partaken of the special plate should be

removed.

Sweets and other Entremets aro usually

handed in the same way as entries, a hot or

cold plate with necessary fork or spoon and fork

being put before each guest previously. In the

case of any sweet requiring cutting, such as

tart, tliis would be served out in portions from

the side.

Cheese. - It is not customary to serve plain

cheese at a formal dinner, but when it is wished

it is usually handed in a dish with different

divisions containing cheese in small pieces,

butter, and one or two different kinds of biscmts.

A small plate and knife would be put down to

each guest before the dish is handed.

Dessert. - The table should be cleared of

crumbs and all unnecessary glasses, &c., before

dessert is served. Unless the fx-uit has not been

on the table during the dinner it should now

be put down, and a dessert plate with a doyley

and finger bowl, along with a fruit knife and

fork, should be placed before each guest. If ices

are served in tliis course thoy should be served

first and the ice plates removed before tho fruit

is handed. Each kind of fruit must \y offered

in turn and then replaced on tho table.

It is not usual to offer a second helping of any

of the courses at a formal dinner. (For the

Ser^-ing of Wine, see p. 248.)

CARVING AND SERVING

Although at tho present time the formal

dinner is always served A la Russe, when all

carving and serving is done at tho side-table or

in tho kitchen, tho art of carving is still required

at family repasts.

Every lady ought to know how to carve ; in

fact, it would bo a good thing if even the young

people in the house took turns in perfornxing

this duty ; they would not then feel at a loss

when they came to have homes of their own or

when called upon to talce tho place of their

parents.

THE TABLE

245

The art of carving can only be learnt by

practice ; some instruction may no doubt be

given in a book, and a beginner may also learn

from watching an expert carver, but proficiency

can only come by actually doing the work

oneself.

To begin with there must be some knowledge

of the anatomy of the various joints, of the

relative position of bones, joints, muscles, and

fat, and also which are the choicest portions.

The most satisfactory way of learning this is

to take the chance when opportunity occurs of

studying the various pieces of meat off the

table. In the case of game or poultry, for

instance, the bird might be cut up in its raw

state for a fricassee or stew and a point made

of examining the different joints.

Carving does not require much physical

strength ; in fact, any undue effort or exhibition

of exertion only shows want of skill or bad

implements : the really clever carver is able to

cut up the most difficult joints with perfect ease.

One must first of all learn to carve neatly

without splasliing the gravy over the cloth or

pieces of meat beyond the dish, and then to cut

straight and uniform sUces so that the joint may

not be made to look untidy and jagged, but

inviting enough to tempt one to desire another

helping, or, if large enough to appear at another

moal, it may do so wearing a presentable appear-

ance. A number of cut surfaces only allow the

escape of juice and tend to make the joint

flavourless. Bad carving is always wasteful,

but the good carver will cut in such a way as to

make every portion inviting and full of flavoiir.

Both the butcher anl the cook can do much

to facilitate the work of the carver - in the case

of a loin of mutton or veal, for instance, neat

car\dng would be impossible unless the butcher

had performed his part of well jointing between

the ribs. The cook, too, should see that all

skewers, pieces of string, &c., are removed. The

size of the dish on which the joint is served is

also important. It must be large enough not

only to hold the joint when whole, but also to

allow room for several cut portions when they

are detached. Some people prefer to have a

separate dish for the cut portions, and these

can, if liked, be handed round. It is a mistake

to put a garnish on any meat which requires

carving at table, and the less gravy there is the

easier it will be for the one who is serving. An

extra supply can always be served separately

in a sauce-boat. The dish must always be

placed near enough the carver to allow of her

reaching it without any difficulty, and the

chair on which she is seated ought to be high

enough to allow her to have perfect control

over her work without the necessity of standing.

Some will find it easier to be raised on a firm

cusliion.

The sharpness of the knife is another very

important matter. It must always be sharpened

before dinner and never at the table, where the

performance is most trying to people's nerves.

It should have a handle that can be grasped

easily and a long thin blade of a size adapted to

the article to be served. A carving-knife should

never be used for anything but its one legitimate

purpose. There are different kinds of knives

sold for the purpose, as, for instance, a meat

carver, a slicer, a breakfast carver, a game knife,

and game scissors ; but if means are limited and

only one general carver can be afforded, choose

one made of the best steel one and a half inches

wide at its broadest part and from eight to ten

inches long.

The carving fork should have two long prongs

and a good guard to protect the fingers. The

hand should be hold over the handle of the fork

with the palm downwards and the first finger

extended. Insert the fork deep enough into the

meat to enable you to hold it firmly in position.

The knife also should generally be held firmly

and then applied lightly. There will be less

gravy squeezsed out if the pressure on the meat

is not too heavy. Both knife and fork must be

held in a natural manner and not grasped as if

they were weapons ; the cutting must be sharp

and clean, never jagged Uke a saw. All meat

should be cut across the grain with the exception

of saddle of mutton.

The carver mvist try to make a fair distribution

of the different cuts and bear in mind individual

likes and disHkes. As a rule, one small slice

is sufficient to serve to a lady and two small or

one large to a gentleman, but the quantity must

be regulated somewhat by the number of courses

in the dinner. If there is onlj' one joint on the

table and there are ladies and gentlemen present,

she should try to regulate the helpings so that

a smaller portion is served to the ladies. If

there is more than one dish to choose from

the portions should be made equal and rather

small in size.

Never ask a guest before begiiuiing to carve

to make a choice between two different dishes,

but help the dishes first and then make the

inqmry, otherwise they might feel that it was

being cut into solely for them.

The following notes on the carving of some of

the principal joints indicate the general method

adopted, but these rules need not be hard and

fast, and clever carvers very soon acquire their

own style.

BEEF

Sirloin of Beef. - ^This joint should be placed

with the back bono or tliickest end at the left-

hand side of the dish. Although it is \isual to

carve the undercut first, as tlais is one of the

primest cuts when hot, the joint is served with

this piece underneath and the carver raises it

and turns it over. The undercut should be cut

across in fairly thick slices C to D and a small

246

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

portion of fat served with each. The upper part

should be cut in long slices parallel with the ribs

A to B. The slices should be as thin as possible

Sirloin of Beef.

without being ragged, and the point of the knife

sliould be inserted to loosen the slices from the

bone.

Ribs of Beet. - This joint should be carved in

the same way as the upper part of the sirloin.

There is no undercut.

Round of Beef or Rolled Ribs. - A thin-bladed

and very sharp knife is required for tliis. First

cut rather a tliick slice ofi the ovitside to make

the top surface even and then continue cutting

thin slices right across the joint.

Ox Tongue. - As the centre is the choicest

portion, the tongue should be cut through tliree

or four inches from the top and thin slices cut

from both ends. A small piece of the fat which

lies near the root might be served with each

portion.

MUTTON AND LAMB

Leg of Mutton. - Place this joint on the dish

with the thickest part lying towards the outside

of the dish and the small end to the left. The

carving is not difficult and it is always done in

the same way. Insert the fork in the thickest

part and raise the joint slightly towards you.

Then cut several slices of medium thickness

through the thickest part and right down to the

bone B to A. Next slip the knife along underneath

Leg of MnttoD.

the slices and detach them from the rest. Some

prefer a piece from the upper end and others

one nearer the knuckle, as the moat is usually

better done towards the thin end, and one of the

tswtiest morsels lies quite close to the knuckle

or lower joint. A small piece of fat which lies

underneath the thick end should be served with

ea"h portion. When the thick side of the meat

is finished, slices should bo cut from the other

Bide in the same v/ay.

Loin of Mutton and Lamb. - This cut must be

thoroughly well jointed by the butcher or it

will be found most difficult to carve. It will

be well also to examine it before cooking, and,

if necessary, joint any part that has been

forgotten. Place the joint on the dish with

the thick part towards tho outside. Insert the

Forequarter of Lamb.

knife between the bones and cut right tlirough,

sepsirating all the cutlets in the same manner.

If there is a kidney a piece of it should be

served with each portion.

Saddle of Mutton should be placed on the

dish with the tail end to the left. Insert tho

fork firmly in tho middle and carve across the

ribs in long slices running parallel with the

backbone. Then slip the knife under and de-

tach the slices from the ribs. If too long they

may be cut across in two or three pieces. A

small piece of crisp fat from the lower part of

the ribs may be served with each portion.

Shoulder of Mutton. - This is one of the most

difficult joints to carve. Serve with the skin

side uppermost on the dish. Insert the fork in

the fleshy part and raise the joint slightly from

the dish. Take as many slices as possible from

Slioulder of Mutton,

the side A and B to C, cutting in each case right

through to the bono. The meat lying on each

side of the blado-bono on tho upper side of the

joint should next be cut, carv-ing the whole

length of tho meat from tho knuckle end.

Then turn tho joint and take slices off the

under-side. The under-part is the Juiciest and

most delicate part, and is frequently cut before

the upper portion.

Forequarter of Lamb. - ^This is another some-

what troublesome joint to carve. The first

point to attend to is to raise the shoulder from

the ribs and breast. Insert the fork in the

most fleshy part of the shoulder and with the

knife cut round as 8ho\Tn by dotted Une C.

Raise up the shoulder on the fork and cut it

THE TABLE

247

away without removing too much of the meat

from underneath. The shoulder portion should

be carved in the same manner as a shoulder of

mutton, but unless the whole joint is required

for one meal it is usual to have tlus put aside on

Loin of Pork.

a separate dish and served cold. Cut the under

portion across, separating the ribs from the

breast. Divide the ribs one from the other, A to

B, and cut the breast in slices. A smaJl portion

of each may be served to each person.

VEAL

Fillet of Veal. - This should be carved in thin

even sUces in the same way as a round of beef.

If there is stuffing a small quantity should be

served with each portion.

Loin of Veal. - Carve in the same way as loin

of mutton unless the cutlets are very large, when

they may be cut in slices like ribs of beef.

Knuckle of Veal. - Carve in the same way as

a leg of mutton.

PORK

Leg of Pork. - Carve in the same way as a

leg of mutton, serving a piece of the crisp fat

and a small quantity of stuffing, if there is any,

to each person.

Loin of Pork. - Carve in slices from A to B,

separating the cutlets between the bones in the

same way as the loin of mutton.

Sucking Pig. - This is generally sent to table

cut in half down the centre and with the head

cut off with one piece laid at each side. First

cut off the four legs from the carcase and then

separate the ribs into small cutlets. It is all

good, and it is just a matter of choice which part

is served.

Ham. - If the ham is sent to table whole, the

thickest part should be placed towards the outer

side of the dish. Take a very sharp knife and

make an incision through the thickest part and

right down to the bone. Continue cutting in

very tliin slices towards both ends of the ham

and serve a fair amount of fat with each portion.

A more economical way of carving a ham is

to comtiience at the knuckle end and cut off

thin shces working towards the thicker part.

\Vhen the bone begins to look unsightly it can

be sawn off.

GAME AND POULTRY

Fowl (Roast or Boiled). - The fowl should be

placed on the dish with the logs to the loft-hand

side. Insert the fork deeply across the breast-

bone so that it takes a firm hold. First remove

the wing on the side nearest you by cutting

through the skin and shaving o2 a thin slice of

the breast towards the wing joint. Then with

the point of the knife sever the joint from the

carcase. Next remove the leg on the same side

by making a downward cut between the thigh

and the body. Bend the leg over and sever

the joint with the point of the knife. Now cut

the meat from the breast in thin slices and the

whole length of the bird B to A. The fork shoxild

never be moved from its original position, and

the necessary carving should be finished before

beginning to serve.

If the family is small and the whole fowl is

not required the second side may be left, and if

the bare piece of carcase is cut away and the

half fowl served bone downwards on a dish with

a nice garnish of parsley or salad, it will make

quite a nice-looking dish. If, however, the

whole fowl is reqviired, remove the wish-bone

from the nock in front of the breast-bone by

inserting the point of the knife at the end.

Then turn the bird round and carve the second

side in exactly the same way as the first, and

Boast FowL

finally turn the carcase over and remove the

oyster, a small dark portion which lies near the

centre of the side bones. The wing and the

breast are considered the finest parts.

Turkey. - This is carved in very much the

same way as a fowl, only if it is large and the

whole is not required it is usual to commence

with the breast and to cut slices from that

before remo^dng the legs and wings. \\Tien the

legs are cut off they should be di\'ided in two at

the joint and then out in slices, as they make

too large portions by themselves. If the bird

is stuffed a small quantity of the force-meat

should be served with each portion.

Goose. - Serve the bird with the neck at the

left-hand side of the dish. As the breast is the

best part it is xisual to carve this first and not

to use the legs and wings the first day unless

they are required. Insert the fork in the centre

over the ridge of the breast -bono and out the

breast in thin parallel slices, commencing at the

248

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

wing and continuing until the breast-bone is

reached. Tlien slip the knife under and detach

them from the bono. Remove the legs and

wings in the same waj' as from a fowl. If thero

is sago and onion farce inquire of each one if

a small helping is agreeable, or hand it round

separately.

Roast Duck. - Car\-e in the same way as

roast goose.

Pigeon. - The usual plan to adopt is to cut

the bird right tlirough the middle into two equal

parts. If these are too large they may be cut

through again into quarters.

Partridge and Grouse should be carved in the

same way as pigeon, a piece of toast being

served with each portion.

Small birds, such as snipe, landrail, ortolan,

are usually served whole or may be cut in two

for ladies.

FISH

A silver or plated fish knife and fork or fish

carvers ought to be used for serving fish. A steel

knife should never be used or the flavour of the

fish \viU bo spoiled. Care should be taken not

to break the flakes more than is necessary and

to serve as little bone as possible.

Cod or Salmon. - The fish should be placed on

the dish with the tluck part of the back towards

the further side. Carve in fairly thick slices

right through to the centre bone, then slip the

knife underneath and detach them. ^Vhen the

top part is finished remove the bone and cut

through tho lower portion in the same manner.

Turbot and Brill are both served in the same

way. First cut through the thickest part of the

fish right doNvn to the back bone. Commence

at the head end and continue to the tail. Then

cut slices across from the centre towards the

sides of the fish and detach them from the bone.

Part of the fins and a Uttle of the gelatinous skin

should be served with each portion.

Sole. - Cut through the whole length of the

thick part and then raise the fillet from each

side. Then remove the bono and separate tho

other side into two fillets.

Plaice. - If largo carve in the same way as a

turbot ; if small according to directions given

for sole.

Small fish aro either served whole or cut in

two pieces.

SERVING OF WINES

In former times it was considered tho correct

thing to serve a different kind of wine with each

course, and the choice was very complicated,

but nowadays the number has been much re-

duced, and it is quite usual to servo only one

or two kinds throughout the whole meal.

When wine is offered it must be good of its

kind; poor cooking is bad enough, but cheap

wine is even worse, being at times almost poison-

ous. People with limited means should not give

champagne or sparkling hock, which in a cheap

form are very deleterious, but let them rather

be content in offering some other wine less ex-

pensive and yet good of its kind, such as clarst,

sherry, or some light wliite wine.

When one is in doubt as to what wine to buy

or what brand to get, the best plan is to consult

a reliable wine-dealer, as it is impossible for an

amateur to know all the different brands and

their distinctive qualities.

For a simple informal dinner it is very custo-

mary to give a good claret or burgundy and

a good sherry or some Ught white wine. For

a formal dinner champagne or hock is usually

given either alone or with other wines.

If a variety of wines is given the following is

the usual order in which they are served : -

Sherry with soup, champagne with the first

entr6e and throughout the meal ; sherry and

claret at dessert, and liqueurs with the ices and

after coffee. Sometimes a wlute RMne wine,

chablis, or sauterne is offered with fish or with

oysters when they commence the meal.

At luncheon one wine is usually sufficient,

such as claret, burgundy, or hock. Cliampagne

is rarely given. Wliisky and soda may be offered

if gentlemen are present.

At supper sherry, claret and hock, or cham-

pagne may be offered, or one wine only.

Claret should always be decanted when vised

for dessert - at other times it is a question of

taste. Both claret and burgundy should be

warmed to the temperature of the room. The

best way to do tliis is to allow them to stand in

a warm dining-room some houi's before they are

required ; or if wanted in a hurry to stand the

bottle in a pail of warm water for a short time.

These wines will not keep long after the bottle

has boon opened.

Sherry and port should always be decanted,

and this should be done carefully and some time

before the wine is required, so as to allow any

sediment to sink to the foot of the decanter.

Port and Madeira are little used, espccir.Uy at

large dinners, although they may be served

with dessert or with a cheese course at the end

of a dinner. A fine Madeira sometimes takes

the place of sherry at the soup course.

Champagne is generally served from the

bottle. A serviette should be wxapped round

the bottle, or held beneath the neck after tho

wine has boon poured out to prevent the drops

falling on the cloth. It ought to be very cold,

and in hot weather it is customary to stand the

bottles in ice for two hours before using. Metal

pails are sold for tho purpose, and these are filled

with a mixture of broken ice and salt. A dry

cliampagne is the favourite, the sweet brands

being little used, except sometimes for ladies.

Hock and Moselle are not decanted ; they should

bo drunk at a temperature of about 40№ Fahr.

THE TABLE

249

Decanters of wine are nob put on the table at

a formal dinner until dessert is served, when

claret and sherry can be placed in front of the

host.

To open champagne or other sparkling wines,

first cut the wire with a pair of chamipagne

nippers and then cut the strings. Hold the

bottle in a slanting position and remove the cork

slowly and carefully. The bottle must be held

on the slant until the wine has been poured

out. Wlien drawing ordinary bottles care must

be taken not to break the cork ; the corkscrew

should be screwed into the middle of the cork

as straight as possible. A lever corkscrew is

best.

Wine should always be poured out at the

right-hand side of the person seated, and poured

out very carefully. When handing champagne

at a dinner it is usual to ask in the first instance

if it is desired, but when handing it later the

glass should be refilled without any comment.

Liqueurs are always served in small Uqueur

glasses on a silver tray or liqueur stand and

handed at the left-hand side.

jMineral waters and lemonade should be at

hand at all meals, as so many do not take ■wine.

Barley water too is a favourite and fasluonable

drink, especially among ladies, and is often

served at luncheon.

Brandy or wliisky and soda may be in readi-

ness at informal meals where men are present.

These spirits should always be decanted.

When stout or ale is taken the bottle should

be opened at the sideboard and then poured out

carefully and slowly, holding the bottle at an

angle so that the glass may be filled with ale and

not froth. It should then be handed on a silver

waiter. If it is draught ale it should be poured

out briskly and then slowly from a jug in order

to give it a head.

BREAKFAST

The service of the breakfast-table does not

alter much, and whether the meal be simple or

elaborate the mode of lajang the table remains

very much the same. Although there are no

hard-and-fast rules as in the case of the formal

dinner, as much daintiness should be observed

in the setting of the breakfast-table.

In large houses this meal is usually set in the

morning-room and not in the dining-room and

at an hour to suit the habits of the household.

In all cases it must be served early enough to

permit of those who have special work to perform

to take their meal quietly and without hurry.

This is especially necessary in the case of cliil-

dren having to go off to school. The seeds of

indigestion have often been sewn even in cliild-

hood by having to swallow this meal in a hurry.

Both table and sideboard must be covered with

a cloth, sometimes a plainer one than that used

for dinner ; any decoration most be of the very

simplest - a pretty plant or fern, or a few flowers

in vases will be all that are required.

The usual plan is to place the tea or coffee

or both at one end of the table in front of the

hostess along with the necessary accompaniments

of sugar and milk, the required number of cups

and saucers and a jug or kettle of hot water.

Everything must be within easy reach for serv-

ing, and hot articles should be placed on silver

or china stands.

At the other end would be placed any dishes

that were being served and the necessary plates.

If there is a choice of dishes cold dishes such

as ham, tongue, or cold pie are usually placed

on the sideboard and served from there. WTien

boiled eggs are served they are put on an egg-

stand or in a folded ser\-iette or lined basket to

keep them warm. Butter and jam or marmalade

should also find a place on the breakfast-table,

the former neatly rolled or made up in pats

in the butter dishes, and the latter tidily served

in jam dishes or fancy pots.

Different kinds of bread woiild also be served

according to taste, such as rolls and scones

(white or brown), toast, oatcakes, cut white and

brown bread, &c. Tliese must be served on

bread plates with doyleys vmderneath. If a

loaf of bread is reqiiired as well it is usually

placed on the bread platter on the sideboard

and cut as required.

Fruit either stewed or raw is also becoming a

recognised addition to the breakfast-table, the

kind varying according to the season of the year.

Wlien cereal foods, such as porridge, grape-

nuts, quaker oats, bread and milk, &c., are

wanted, they must be daintily served - some of

the pretty bowls or fire-proof dishes now sold

are very suitable for the purpose.

Tlie other appointments of the table will

depend on the number of persons and the special

dishes being served. A small plate and knife

and serviette must be put to each place and

the necessary knives, forks, and spoons for the

different dishes. Pro^^ision must also be made for

any dish that is to be served, not forgetting such

things as cruets, butter knives, jam spoons, &c.

A table-heater is a most useful article to have

for the breakfast - table, especially in houses

The "Heatorboil

where the meal is a prolonged one. By this

means dishes can be kept weirm, and if the

heater has a sliding top, as in the " Heatorboil,"

as shown in illustration, it can be utilised for

boiling eggs or a Uttle water as well.

250

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

As a rule, there is no waiting done at break-

fast, so that it is all the more important that

the table be set carefully and that nothing is

forgotten.

Variety of Food. - Perhaps there is no meal

at which variety is more necessary than at

breakfast, but m many middle-class houses it

is made a most monotonous and uninteresting

repast. Tlus may be due partly to the early

hour at wliich the meal is served, but it is also

the result of want of thought or resourcefulness

on the part of the cook or housewife. Elaborate

dishes are not required ; in fact, they would be

out of place ; what is wanted is simple tasty

dishes nicely served - always remembering that

what pleases the eye helps also to please the

palate. It is well as far as possible to choose

for breakfast such dishes as can either be pre-

pared the night before or will take little time to

get ready in the morning.

Besides such well-known favourites as ham,

eggs, bacon, fried fish, fried sausages, &c., the

dishes deteuled below, recipes for which will be

found in the Guide to Cookery (pp. 116 to 235),

might be quoted : -

Cod's roe, fish cakes, fish curry, fish cutlets,

steamed fish pudding, scalloped fish, smoked

haddock balls, herring au gratin, pickled herring,

fish pies (various), tripe with tomatoes, grilled

kidneys, sheep's tongues, brawn, jellied veal,

calf's liver, calves' brains, calves' feet, galantine

of veal, cold meat shape, meat scallops, glared

beef roll, chicken and spaghetti, potted fish and

meat, rissoles and croquettes, cold pie, various

eg-g flishes and omelets, stewed mushrooms, nut

rissoles.

If more suggestions as to what to give are

required, the housewife would do well to supply

herself with the little volume entitled " Break-

fast Dishes," published by T. C. and E. C. Jack.

Tea and Coffee. - It is very important that the

tea and coffee for breakfast should be well made

and served very hot, and the few hints given

below for the use of the novice in the art of tea

and coffee-making may not be out of place.

Tea. - Half fill the teapot with boiling water,

let it stand a minute or two until thoroughly

hot, then empty it. Put in the requisite quantity

of tea (the old rule of a level teaspoon for each

person and one over is a good one, but for a

number a smaller proportion may be allowed),

and pour on, gently enough, boiling water to half

fill the teapot. Take the teapot to the kettle,

and never the kettle to the teapot. Cover with

a cosy or let it stand in a warm place to infuse

for three minutes, then fill up the teapot and

pour out the tea. Tea is never good if allowed

to stand too long, and the use of a tea-cosy is

to bo deprecated if it is employed to keep tea

hot for a long time until it becomes black and

bitter. If the tea has to be kept hot for any

length of time, it should be poured off the leaves

into another teapot, or some teapots are fitted

with an inner case which contains the leaves,

and which can be removed when the tea has

infused sufficiently.

When sugar and milk or cream are used, they

should be put into the teacup before the toa.

The addition of milk makes the tea more whole-

some, that of sugar less so.

Coffee. - ^To get good coffee is often one of the

difficulties of the housekeeper, and yet it need

not be so. The making of it is very simple. It

just requires some nicety and care.

Coffee to be good should be freshly roasted

and freshly ground. When tliis cannot be done

at home, it should be bought in very small

quantities and kept in a tin box with a tight-

fitting lid.

If pure coffee is wanted chicory must not bo

used. Chicory imparts a slight bitterness to the

coffee and darkens the colour, and some people

prefer coffee with it. The usual proportions are

two ounces chicory to one pound coffee. The

water, as for tea, must be freshly boiled. It is

also important to have the coffee-pot very clean.

Tliere are many different kinds of cafetiores,

and some of them are more compUcated than

others, but for ordinary purposes the simple

tin or china cafetiere with percolator answers

very well and requires no spirit-lamp.

First fill the cafetiere with boiling water, let

it stand until thoroughly heated, and pour the

water away. Then put in the reqviired amount

of coffee - the quantity will vary according to

the taste of the consumer ; but a very good

proportion is one table-spoonf\il coffee to each

half-pint of boiling water. Pour the boiling

water gently and gradually over the coffee, and

let it filter slowly through. Keep the pot stand-

ing in a warm place, and serve as hot as possible.

Coffee to be good must be hot. If there is no

percolator attached to the coffee-pot, it is a good

plan to have an iron ring made to fit the top of

the coffee-pot inside. To this ring sew a muslin

bag, and fit the bag into the pot. Pour some

boiling water through it, and when it is well

warmed pour the water away. Put the coffee

into the bag and proceed as before.

Coffee can also be made in a jug. Heat the

jug thoroughly with boiling water and pour the

water away. Put the coffee into the jug, and

stand it on the top of the stove for a few minutes

until the coffee is hot. Then pour the proper

quantity of boiling water over it and stir with

a spoon. Cover the jug with a lid or thickly

folded cloth, and let it stand by the side of the

stove for fifteen minutes. Have the jug or pot

in which the coffee has to be served made very

hot. Stretch a piece of muslin over it and

strain the coffee through.

When milk is served with coffee it should be

scalded but not quite boiled. The proportions

are equal quantities of strong coffee and milk,

or two-thirds milk to one-third of coffee. A

little cream may be added.

THE TABLE

251

LUNCHEONS

There are several different kinds of luncheons,

and the manner of serving them is more varied

and less formal than that of the late dinner.

First there is the simple meal of two or three

courses, which serves as the dinner of the chil-

dren of the family and also that of the servants.

Then there is the still simpler meal partaken

of by those who look forward to a more sub-

stantial meal in the evening and consisting of

some egg or vegetable dish, or perhaps some

made-up meat dish, cold meat, or the remains

of dinner of the night before, along with a little

fruit, cheese, and perhaps a cup of coffee.

And, lastly, there is the rather more formal

luncheon, very similar to the late dinner, but

with fewer courses and simpler ceremony.

The mid-day dinner has already been described

under " Home Dinners," and requires no further

comment.

The luncheon proper is a more or less informal

meal according to the style of the house and

customs of the family. As a rule all the dishes

are served from the table, the waitress only

passing the plates and handing any vegetable.

The plates would also be changed by the maid

in attendance, but any other service is generally

performed by members of the family themselves,

unless there is a good staff of servants.

A more formal luncheon would be served

d la Russe, but this is only suited to large

establishments, as one or two maids would

require to be in constant attendance. The

decorations should be very simple and menu

and name cards aro not necessary. Long

luncheons consisting of many courses are not

liked, and the dishes should be lighter than for

a dinner.

When soup is on the menu it is frequently

served in cups instead of soup plates, and small

racks of toast should be suppUed as well as

bread.

Entrees of different kinds frequently take the

place of more substantial joints which require

carving, and the sweets should be simple in

character, or some novelty in the way of pastry

or French gdteaux might be offered. Dessert

may be omitted if it makes the service too long,

but a few little dishes of bon-bons or salted

almonds may be placed on the table as at dinner.

The table is not cleared at dessert, and fruit

plates are used without finger glasses. Black

coffee is usually handed at the table after the

last course has been served.

AFTERNOON TEA

Tills can scarcely be called a meal, but rather

a light refreshment taken in the afternoon to

break the fast between luncheon and late

dinner. It is usuallj' served in the drawing-

room between four and five o'clock, and although

unceremoniotis in character, it is one of the most

social and popular events of the day, and the

taste and refinement of the hostess are readily

recognised in the manner in which it is served.

Everything should be as dainty and attractive

as possible.

The tea itself should be of the best that can

be afforded and must be well made (see p. 250).

The question as to what special tea to use is

entirely a matter of taste - China tea is much

appreciated by many people, and it is light and

refreshing, but it is an acquired taste and not

liked by every one, so that when tea is to be

offered to a mixed company whose individual

tastes are not known, it is safer to use a good

blended tea wdth no pronounced flavour.

The beauty and deUcacy of the china is also

important, and it is usual to have small thin

cups and saucers of some dainty design with

teaspoons of a suitable size. All the silver must

be very bright. Plates are not as a rule required,

unless cream cakes or other similar dainties are

being offered - when used they m\ist be qviite

small in size.

The hostess should try to study novelty and

variety in the cakes or bread offered, and nothing

of a large or clumsy nature must be seen.

Plain bread, either brown or white, should be

buttered and sliced very thinly and cut in any

shape desired, or, for a change, it may be made

up in little rolls. Scones and tea-cakes are best

hot butter jd and served in a muffin dish or in a

folded doyley. Different kinds of small sand-

wiches might also be served (see p. 187), and

there must always be a nice choice of cakes.

Petits-fours and other fancy biscuits of various

sorts are also favourites, as they are dry and not

hkely to soil the gloves.

All the bread plates should be covered with

pretty doyleys or lace-edged papers ; the latter

is better for placing under any cake that has

to be cut. The tea should be prepared in the

pantry or kitchen. If the tray is not of silver

cover it with a dainty white tray-cloth, then

arrange the cups and saucers, sugar basin, slopr

basin and cream jug on it, and have the plates

of bread and butter and cake in readiness. \Vhen

all is ready and a good kettle of water boiling,

prepare the table in the drawing-room - tliis

may or may not be covered with a cloth accord-

ing to its kind, but if one is used it must be as

dainty as possible - there is nothing prettier

than the all-white cloth, embroidered or trimmed

with lace, but if colour is introduced it must tone

with the colour of the teacups. Small serviettes

to match are sometimes used, but this is not a

universal custom.

The table is generally low and should be

placed beside the hostess. Tlie plates of cake

may be placed on a cake-stand or on another

small table close at hand. Infuse the tea and

fill up the hot-water jug or kettle last of all

and carry all to the drawing-room at the hour

252

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

appointed. Tea-cosies are no longer £asliionable,

although many people still prefer to use them.

AVhcn guests are expected the table is some-

times prepared beforeliand, leaving only the tea

and water to be carried in when it

is required. If more visitors should

arrive after the tea has been served,

the waitress must see that there is a

sufiBcient number of cups and bring

more if necessary without requiring

to be told. Fresh tea should also

be made and more bread cut if

needed.

Tea is usually poured out by the

hostess or by a grown-up daughter,

and the cups are passed by any

Cake-Stand. g6'it^"'™en visitors or by the young

people of the house. Servants do

not as a rule remain in the room, but are only

ning for when anything extra is required.

AFTERNOON "AT HOMES"

When a number of guests are expected the

tea itself is sometimes served in a back drawing-

room. A good-sized table spread with a pretty

cloth should be placed in one corner, and upon

it should be arranged the tea things with plates

of bread and butter cakes and other dainties.

The tea in this case should be poured out by

one of the daughters of the house or by a lady

friend, leaving the hostess free to receive and

entertEiin her guests in the drawing-room

proper.

At very large " At Homes " tea is frequently

served in the dining-room, but this is a more

formal affair. Visitors are shown into the

room on arrival and waited on by servants

before they enter the drawing-room. Gentle-

men visitors often assist in handing round the

refreshments. The table should bo made into a

sort of buffet, and, if space is limited, it should

be moved to one end of the room. It must

be covered with a fine damask cloth and the

serving should be done from the back. Both

tea and coffee are frequently served on these

occasions and rows of cups and saucers should be

in readiness. The jugs of cream and milk and

bowls of sugar might be placed on the side of

the table next the guests, allowing them to help

themselves. There should be an abundant

supply of all kinds of dainties, and one or two

largo cakes on high stands would help to give

an ornamental appearance. The table n^ust be

prettily decorated with a few flowers or plants

and everything made as attractive as possible.

In summer it is very u'fual to offer fruit,

strawberries especially, and these are best served

in small quantities on little plates. Ices too

are sometimes served.

If there is sufficient space in the dining-room

there might be two or three little tables and some

chairs dotted about the room for the convenience

of those who do not care to take their refresh-

ment standing.

SUPPER

The Family Supper. - In houses where early

dinner is the rule, supper of a more or less

substantial kind is the concluding meal of the

day. Tliis is generally quite an informal meal,

and the arrangement of it depends entirely upon

individual requirements. As a rule, all the

dishes are placed on the table and there is little

or no waiting. The table is laid in very much

the same way as for luncheon, and as the articles

required depend entirely upon the kind of food

provided, it is impossible to give any definite

rules. If coffee is served, it is either placed at

one end of the table and served by the hostess

as at breakfast, or it is served by one of tho

daughters of the house.

The Formal Supper. - This may be served in

several ways, and the arrangement chosen

depends very much upon the wishes of the hos-

tess. Many people consider it inhospitable not

to provide a substantial meal to which their

guests can sit down and be waited on by the

servants of the house. In tliis case one large

or several small tables are laid and the service

is very much the same as for Diner it la

Russe.

As a rule the dishes are cold, although hot

soup and perhaps one hot entree are frequently

served. Such dishes as the following would all

be suitable for the bill of fare : -

Cold meats of different kinds, such as game,

poultry, ham, tongue, galantine and meat pies,

dishes vrith aspic and mayonnaise, and various

salads - jellies, creams, and all kinds of fancy

sweets and plenty of fruit in season.

Buflet Supper. - When there are a number of

guests and space is limited, a *' stand up " supper

is very often given. Tho different dishes are

placed on the table, the ladies sit round the

room, and the gentlemen wait on them and help

themselves. Waitresses may also be in attend-

ance. Only such dishes as can be easily eaten

must be served, such as sandwiches, patties,

aspic and mayonnaise dishes, and perhaps cold

meats neatly sliced, followed by jelhes, creams,

various other sweets, and perhaps ices. Cooling

drinks and light wines should also be offered.

This is a less expensive mode of serving the

meal and one most frequently adopted by the

housevWfe of moderate means.

Another way is to arrange a sort of buffet and

to serve refreshments at any time throughout

the evening without having a fixed hour for the

meal. It will be the duty of the host and

hostess to let tliis be understood by their guests

and to see that every one is taken into supper

in tho course of the evening.

When only cold and light refreshments are

given at an evening party it is very usual to offer

THE TABLE

253

a cup of hot soup or coSee to tho guests just

before they leave.

TABLE DECORATIONS

The floral decoration of the table is now a

universal custom. Large sums of money are

often spent upon the flowers and vases for a

smart dinner-party, and hostesses will vie with

each other as to whose table will present the

most novel and effective appearance. But

unless means are unlimited it is impossible to

follow every passing fashion, and it is a good

thing for most of us that floral decoration does

not depend upon costly vases and expensive

flowers ; in fact, in most cases the simpler the

arrangement the more charming the result.

Even although we are not all the happy

possessors of a garden, flowers are brought into

our towns in such lavish quantities nowadays,

not to speak of those from our own market-

gardens, that they have been brought within

the means of the poorest. It is seldom one

cannot get a bunch of some sort of bloom for

a few coppers or even the modest penny, and

when we consider the joy and comfort they

bring we are amply compensated for the outlay.

The delight a few flowers can give is unlimited.

\^1iat a difference between a table that is

tastefully decorated with a few flowers and one

on which a huge cniet-stand takes the central

position. A table without a plant or flower is a

desolate affair. There is no occasion to have a

great display; more taste can often be shown

in the arrangement of a few blooms than in

an exuberant show. Flowers should not be

crowded ; they should have room to stand out

individually. The Japanese, who are so artistic,

consider one choice bloom quite sufficient to put

in a vase. The main thing is to make the table

pretty and attractive, and at the same time to

think of something novel.

The foliage sprays shoidd be inserted first,

and the flowers then placed in carefully, so

as to face whatever direction is required. If

some flowers have a tendency to twist about,

this can be remedied by pushing a piece of thin

wire up the inside of the stem and allowing it

to project half an inch. This projection can

usually bo inserted into a piece of foliage or stem,

and the flower thiis retained in the desired

position.

Needless to say, the flowers must be fresh and

the water shoiild be changed every day.

Tlie arrangement of flowers is very much a

matter of skill and taste and the following

paragraphs are only suggestive. The tendency

at present is to keep the floral decoration low,

tall-growing flowers, when they are used, being

put in slender glasses or arranged in such a

way that they do not obstruct the \aew. From

the conversational point of view this is a great

advantage, as it is never pleasant to be forced to

look around ornaments in order to talk to some

one on the opposite side of the table. Harmony

of colour with the surroundings and a sense of

proportion as to height, siz;e, and shape of vases

- a lightness of touch in the grouping together,

with a quick eye for possibilities in the blending

of shades, are all necessary to ensure success.

The quantity must depend upon the size of

the table ; a large table will stand some display

of abundance, but now that small tables are

fashionable, even for private houses, a very light

form of decoration is all that is necessary.

Choice and Colour of the Flowers. - Flowers

are now to be had in such variety and at every

season of the year that their choice is very

much a matter of individual taste, limited only

by the resources at one's command. Flowers

typical of the season are as a rule more pleasing

than exotics and forced productiorxS. Those

with a strong scent should be avoided, especially

if they are to be used in large quantities and in

a heated room. When selecting a little thought

must be given to the general tone of decoration.

The colour of the room must be taken into con-

sideration, unless the walls are cream or of some

pale shade which will not clash with any of the

brighter colours. Pleasing effects of colour are

the first consideration. A mixture of colours

rarely looks well ; one or at most two colours

with green is quite sufficient, although there

may of course be graduations in shade of the

prevailing colour.

Colour schemes are now the fashion, the

flowers, candle shades, dinner ware, bon-bons,

&c., being of corresponding hues. Some

hostesses even aim at ha\'ing the flowers, &c.,

to match the gown they are going to wear.

Foliage and Plants. - Plenty of foliage should

be used, that of the flower itself wherever

possible, and the teaching of nature followed if

perfection is to be attedned. The leaves them-

selves should not lie in the water, but should be

stripped off the stalk, as they only crowd the vase

and prevent the flowers getting sufficient water.

Asparagvis, springeri, maidenhair, and smilax

are among the choicest and best -known foliage

plants, but there are many people, especially in

the country, who may find these too costly for

ordinary use or difficult to prociu-o ; to those

it may be suggested that there are many traiUng

plants to be had for little or nothing, which could

be employed in a similar way, such as the small-

leaved gold or silver iv-y, creeping jenny, canary

creeper, periwinkle, and traveller's joy. To keep

them from drooping the ends can be inserted in

button -holders filled with wet sand and liidden

among the leaves. Trailing plants can have

silver wire inserted among the stems if it is

wished to keep them in a special position. The

tops of asparagus can often take the place of the

more expensive fern ; wliile more use might be

made of carrot -leaves and those of the wild

geranium, the latter sometimes being found in

254

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

delightful shades of a red-brown colour. Con-

vohnilus trails, with tliick clusters of scarlet

berries lastmg for montlis after the leaves have

withered, are a splendid addition to our winter

decorations.

Vases. - Almost any kind of vase can be \isod

as long as it suits the style of flower and docs

not clash in colour. As a rule, wliito and green

crj'stal ones are the most adaptable. Tall-

stalked flowers, such as clirysanthomums, lilies,

lilac, daffodils, &c., look best in liigh glass,

whilst short -stemmed flowers, such as violets,

primroses, snowdrops, forget-me-nots, &c., should

be arranged in low vases. Roses look especially

well grouped in a bowl or single blooms set in

slender glasses. Most people pick up quaint

vases at different times, especially on a holiday,

when they can often be found both pretty and

cheap. It is astonishing, too, what can be done

in case of necessity ; an old meat or fruit tin

packed with wet silver sand and hidden by

moss can be made to do duty inside a basket

quite as effectively £is a proper zinc Uning, while

small baskets with the Uttle china or glass

drinking vessels used for birds or even a penny

m\istard tin are equally useful ; similarly, all

sorts of glass jars for potted pastes come in

handy, so do cups without handles, especially

the Japanese blue ones, also small china ash

trays and saucers ; indeed, cny one at all resovirco-

ful need never be at a loss. If high glasses are

used they should be slender and so arranged

that they leave the line of vision clear. For

comers all kinds of specimen glasses, upright or

globular, cups, saucers, or pots filled with ferns,

miniature trees or shrubs may be employed ;

a variation of the latter can be obtained by

planting in tiny tubs (doll's washing-tubs painted

dark brown servo the purpose), pips of oranges,

lemons, grape fruit, apples, &c., which make

excellent little trees ; while rambles in woods

and lanes will reward a search by giving us tiny

oak, holly, and other trees to adorn our tables :

these are especially desirable now that Japanese

dwarf trees are the fashion.

Wild Flowers. - Those who live in the country

often overlook or despise the decorative possi-

bilities of the flowers around them ; yet what

can be more lovely than a large vase of golden

buttercups loosely arranged. It is true the

petals soon drop, but then how easy to renew

them. Then, again, what a delightful effect is

produced by a bowl filled with half-open buds

of the deep pink wild-rose with pieces of sweet-

briar among it. We do not half appreciate the

artistic possibilities of the wild anemone with its

delicate green leaf, or of the snowdrop, crab-

applo blossom, wild hyacinth, the meadow

crane's-bill with its charming lavender shade,

meadow-sweet, poppies, corn-flower, and a host of

others too numerous to mention, along with

grasses and leaves of all kinds.

Table Decorations in Spring. - For spring there

is nothing more easy to grow than bulbs of all

kinds ; they can be grown in bowls of cocoa-

nut fibre in sitting-rooms ; the lovely blooms

are in this way always available for decoration

and they last long. Daffodils, pheasant's eye,

narcissus, tulips, and hyacinths of all colours

following one another give a glorious variety with

the added interest of being grown by oneself.

A pretty picture is made of a low dark -green

bowl filled %vith crocuses ranging from white

through the shades of mauve to dark purple, or

massed with the golden kind the bowl is parti-

cularly striking. Lily of the valley can also bo

grown in the same manner ; but in growing

bulbs it should always be borne in mind that

a hot room is fatal for good results. As the

season advances we get a bewildering choice of

flowers, among which violets take a first place

for their sweetness ; a favourite combination is

that of dark violets ^^-ith the lavender-coloured

parma-violets. Pansies and violas associate

well with almost any light green foliage, but

nothing is so suitable as their own foliage when

that can be procured bright and fresh and of

good colour. Violets, however, do not make

a good show at night. A well-grown bowl of

lily of the valley with smaller ones of violets

looks charming. Violets can also be used with

the lavender shades of iris. Another sweet

spring decoration is that of lilac in blending

shades, but the stalks of this flower and other

woody kinds must be split up to allow them to

get plenty of water, otherwise they soon droop.

A large bowl of crimson peonies makes a very

handsome centre-piece, and, being so showy, does

not require more than ferns round it.

What an important niche is filled in our

decorations by the little salmon pink anemone

which appears in the late spring. Sold in small

bundles of unopened flowers, it looks insignifi-

cant to those who do not know its value, but if

kept for a few days a lovely show is made by

the gradual unfolding of the buds to their full

size, its colour alone making it valuable, eoming

as it does at a time when most of our flowers are

white or yellow ; as the blooms last well, its

purchase is always a safe investment. The

larger kind, though more showy, do not blend so

well with other colours.

Table Decorations in Summer. - Summer

brings us the rose, tlie queen of flowers, in all its

many forms and shades, but as a queen it must

reign alone, no other flower being permissible

near it. You may havo all one colour, or various

shades as from pink to crimson, but do not

mix all colours together ; it is a fatal mistake.

What is more perfect than an old silver or china

bowl filled with rich crimson roses ; or a few

long-stalked pink ones in branched glass or other

vases, small corner bowls holding each a rose

with perfect foliage, the stems kept in place

by leaden clips covered -with moss ? Rambler

roses are more difficult to deal with, but if the

THE TABLE

255

dusters of bloom are not too heavy, and you get

the right kind of vase to suit them, they make

a perfect picture. All the larger liUes make a

splendid show in tall vases, but many people find

the scent too powerful in a room. Carnations

rank next the rose, combining as they do both

beauty of colotir and fragrance. A simple but

effective decoration can be made by arranging

short trails of the dwarf nasturtium in a slender

but broad -rimmed vase and allowing the ends to

fall over, a few leaves and half-opening flowers

being arranged in small bowls or saucers.

Sweet peas are both beautiful and plenti-

ful ; also particularly useful in schemes of

colour with their many shades of pink and

mauve, but theirs is a fragile loveUness, for

should the weather be hot they droop almost

as soon as picked ; they look best in slender

vases loosely arranged. The dainty colourings

of gladioli are very charming, though the form is

somewhat stiff ; the defect can in this and many

other cases be lightened by sprays of gypsophila.

Pink or mauve ivy geraniums go well with some

shades of gladioli as a combination. A delight-

ful table decoration for a hot day is formed

by large marguerites, blue Canterbury bells, and

wild oats ; the sense of coolness imparted by

those in a white-papered room mxist be felt to

be understood Harebells and dog daisies give

the same effect.

The soft yet brilliant shades of the Shirley

poppies make another welcome addition to our

list of summer favourites ; arranged in a tall

tapering glass with sprays of the feathery wliite

statice or gypsophila they look charmingly grace-

ful, the various shad 3 of white, yellow and

orange or reds and pinks, blending beautifully

together. Many people think they drop quickly,

but they should be chosen as much in bud as

possible, as every bud opens and then they will

be found to last nearly a week.

Charming combinations can be worked in

cream and lavender, in white and dark violet,

in yellow and cream, and in mauve and white.

Large fine blooms of fancy pansies are always

admired on a table, and when well arranged

no combination can be more attractive.

Table Decorations in Autumn and Winter. - As

the autumn comes along we get the asters and

dahlias in all their varied colourings ; the single

dahlias are the best for table ornamentation,

though a bowl of the crimson or yellow double

ones makes a rich feast of colour. The loose

petalled asters are the most effective, and pink

and white or mauve and white combine well

together. The Michaelmas daisies have been

much improved of recent years, and many

varieties can now be obtained. There are two

kinds of white Michaelmas daisies which are

invaluable for putting among flowers ; the

blooms are very small and feathery. Now we

get the lovely tones of the xnrginian creeper,

&o charming for adorning our tables, but it is

necessary to wire it, as the leaves so soon drop

off ; a few trails should hang from vases as well

as be used in draping.

In the country many richly -shaded leaves o£

all sorts, also berries, can now be gathered, the

leaves pressed and put aside for winter use.

Hips and haws are well known, as are also the

rowan berries. Trails of virginian creeper, a

vase of bronze, yellow chrysanthemums, and

smaller vases (of copper, if possible) filled with

yellow marguerites make a charming pictiire,

especially if the svirroundings are of a browTi

tone.

For those who live in the country there is the

possibility of making use of the rich hues of the

crab-apple. A few discreetly selected small

branches well laden with fruit, the stems clipped

together with the soft leaden supports so cheap

to buy, placed in a large green pot as if growing,

the pot being half filled with moss, would make

a novel decoration, while tiny specimen baskets,

each containing one or two of the brilhantly

coloured Quarantine apples, and the basket

handles tied with a bow of green ribbon, might

be placed round. This decoration would be

suitable for a harvest home.

Winter gives us the ever -popular chrysan-

themum, now grown in such quantities that it

is brought within the reach of the most modest

purse. Chrysanthemiims always look best in

tail jars or vases and require plenty of water ;

in fact, th6y should be left in a pail of water up

to their heads every night. These flowers bring

us to Christmas when holly reigns supreme,

helped out by Christmas roses and forced

scarlet tulips, the fragile-looking white of the

Christmas roses making a delicate contrast to

the prickly and brilliant holly.

Decorations for Special Occasions. - A few

suggestions may be given for special occa-

sions.

For Christmas the centre vase might be filled

with large white or yellow chrysanthemums ;

round the base should be placed the small-

leaved golden variegated holly, a well-berried

piece of daxk holly put at intervals ; at the four

corners horseshoes made of the leaves of the

variegated sort, " A Merry Xmas," or similar

motto formed of the berries running round or

across as preferred, one corner of the horseshoe

being tied with a bow of crimson ribbon. Fancy

pots or baskets filled with ferns and scarlet

tulips and tied with green ribbon could be used,

or bowls of Clu-istmas roses could take their

place. The menu cards might have a robin or

other seasonable de\dce painted on them.

For Primrose Day. - ^Fill tliree round or long

vessels viith wet silver sand, put in the flowers

one by one, separate the vessels with pots of

hght maidenhair, put the whole on a tin or zinc

tray and bank up with moss. Smilas should be

arranged round and draped along the sides,

with small pots of maidenhair at the corners

256

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tied with bows of red ribbon, and a primrose

button-hole put to each gtiest.

For a Wedding. - The place of honour being

occupied by the wedding cake, pink and white

roses, carnations, sweet peas, lily of the valley,

and white heather are the most usual decorations.

A pretty touch can bo given by having tiny

horseshoes for each guest ; these can be made of

lily of the valley or forgot-me-nots, with a small

bunch of white heather at the side tied with pink

or wliito ribbon.

SERVING OF FRUIT

Fresh fruit should find a place on every

table ; it is always wholesome and beautiful,

and much taste can be shown in the manner

in which it is arranged. \Vlien fruit is served

at a dinner-party it may either be placed on

the table at the beginning and remain through-

out the meal, or it may be put down when

the guests are ready to partake of it. The

first method is to be recommended as feir as

the decorative appearance of the table is con-

cerned, although the fruit itself suffers from

being exposed to the heat of the room for so

long. The softer fonts especially stiffer from

the hot atmosphere and the odours of savoury

dishes. Perhaps the best plan to adopt is to

put down the harder and drier fruits, such as

nuts, oranges, and apples, and to reserve the

daintier and finer ones to be brought in fresh

and cool when they are required, either in their

natural state or en salade.

^^^aen arranging fruit it must bo carefully

looked over and any that is blemished put aside.

Oranges and apples, pears and other fruit of the

kind should be wiped with a damp cloth and

poUshed. Grapes should be lightly brushed

with a soft brush, peaches and plums very

Ughtly rubbed, and all berries carefully picked

and washed if necessary.

Fruit may bo arranged in a variety of ways.

Each dish may contain either a different kind of

fruit, or else a miscellaneous assortment artisti-

cally grouped. If the table is large, a handsome

centre-piece of mixed fruits sometimes looks

well. Many pretty designs for fruit dishes are

now sold, and these may either match the fruit

plates or form a pleasing contrast. Rustic baskets

of different shapes can also be made to look very

pretty and artistic. Green leaves should always

cover the dishes on which the fruit is served. For

the larger fruits vine-leaves are the most suitable,

while currant -leaves can be used for the smaller

kinds. In winter when fresh leaves are scarce

gold and silver paper leaves can often be em-

ployed with good effect, especially for dried

fruits, dates, figs, Carlsbad pltrnis, crystallised

fruits, and such -like.

One important point to remember is that

when arranging a dish of mixed fruits the

lighter kinds must alwaj^s be put on the top.

Apart from this, there are no fixed rules for the

arrangement of fruit, but an eye for colour and

artistic taste are as necessary hero as in floral

decorations.

The following is a specimen of a Dirmer Menu, written in both French and English : -

Melon Glac6

Consomme aux Quenelles

Turlx)t. Sauce aux Crevettes

Cremes de Boeul aux Champignons

Oigot d'Agneau- Sauce Menthe

Sorbet au Rhum

Faisans IWtis. Salade d'Orange

Nid de ifarrons h. la Crfeme

Gel6e au Vln Rouge

Pallleg au Parmesan

Glacis anx Fraises

Dessert

Iced Melon

Clear Soup with Quenelles

Turbot with Shrimp Sauce

Beef Creams with Mushrooms

Lamb with Mint Sauce

Rum Sorbet

Boast Pheasants with Orange Salad

Nest of Chestnuts with Cream

Port Wine Jelly

Cheese Straws

Strawberry Ices

Dessert.

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

A GOOD housewife will tako great care of her household linen, and it will be her pleasure to see

that it is kept in beautiful order.

In beginning housekeeping the quantity and quality of the linen that is bought must depend

upon individual taste and means, the size of the household to be provided for, and the room there

is for keeping it.

As a rule, it is a wise plan to buy just what is necessary to start with and to add to the stock

as time goes on and the necessity for more arises. The space in modern houses is often somewhat

limited, and if surplus linen has to be stored away in boxes in a cellar, it will probably be attacked

by mildew and become unfit for use. Whatever is bought should be good of its kind, not necessarily

of the finest quality, as this would be unsuitable in many cases, and the price paid will naturally

depend upon the means at disposal ; but an inferior quality should never be bought. Even a little

extra outlay at the beginning in order to obtain first-rate material will be amply repaid in the

ultimate satisfaction afforded. Cheap linen may look very well when new, when it has dressing in

it and a certain amount of gloss, but after the first washing it wiU be found limp and thin and

without any body.

The material for household linen can always be bought by the yard and made up at home,

but now that good ready-made articles can be had at such moderate prices, there is really

nothing to be gained by taking this extra trouble. If hand work is stiU preferred to machine

work, it can always be ordered or asked for specially. Of course, it is important to go to a first-

class shop where the goods can be trusted. In this chapter useful information is given in regard to

standard qualities and prices.

BED LINEN

Sheets. - Material. - Until within recent years

linen was always considered the correct material

for sheeting, and it would have been thought

a breach of etiquette to provide a guest with

anytliing but the finest and whitest of hnen

sheets. But now, owing to the many improve-

ments made in its manufacture, cotton has to

a large extent taken the place of linen. Linen

is, however, still preferred by many people ;

it is so fine and smooth to the touch, and

delightfully cool in summer. One must of

course be prepared to pay a good price for

linen ; but it will be found very durable, and

it keeps its colovu? bettor than cotton. Good

linen is fine and even in vexture. It should

be bought fairly heavy, otherwise it will curl up

and soon look shabby and crushed.

It is not wise to let deUcate and rheumatic

people sleep in linen sheets, as linen carries off

the heat of the body and is very apt to give cold.

Cotton, on the other hand, is much warmer than

linen, and for this reason it is often hked better.

Besides, it is possible now to buy it of such fine

quality and with such a nice soft finish, that

even the most fastidious can scarcely object to

it. The difference in price, too, is a consideration

with people of moderate meanb.

Cotton sheets can be had in two kinds, twilled

and plain. At the present time the plain calico

seems to be the favourite and the kind most

generally asked for, but this of course is a

matter of taste, and the price of both is very

much the same.

Both Unen and cotton sheets can be had with

either plain or hem-stitched hems at the ends ;

the latter add very little, if anything, to the

price, and they certainly add to the dainty

appearance of the bed.

It is always well to have the top hem a little

wider than the one at the bottom, or to have

some other distinction, in order to prevent the

foot of the sheet being placed near the face.

For servants' use a well-woven twilled calico

is best. The unbleached material used to bo

bought for the pm-pose, but it is now seldom

asked for, and the wliito certainly looks nicer.

A very usual plan when providing sheets for

a household is to buy linen for the best beds,

fine cotton for ordinary use, and a hea^^er twill

for the servants. As some people object to

linen sheets, it is well to keep one or two pairs of

fine cotton in reserve for the use of guests.

Size and Price. - Sheets must always be

bought of a right size for the bed for which they

are intended. They must be long enough and

wide enough to permit of their being tucked in

257 E

258

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

all round the mattress. An extra length, about

three-quarters of a yard, must bo allowed if the

under-sheet has to cover the bolster as well. In

breadth a sheet should at least bo 72 inches wide

for a single bed, and 90 inches for a double

bed, and from 2 to 3i yards long.

As regards quality taste varies so much that

indi\idual preference and the means at command

can alone decide the choice. The following

prices may, however, be a guide to those who

have little knowledge of what ought to be paid.

Only thoroughly recommended prices are quoted.

Cotton Hem-stitched Sheets.

Single-bed size - 8s. 6d. to 15s 6d. per pair.

Double-bed size - 12s. to 23s. 6d. per pair.

The difference in price depends upon the

fineness of the material, and also upon the

length.

Hem-stitched Linen Sheets (Irish).

Single-bed sheets- 18s. 9d., 23s. 6d. to £3, 3s.

per pair.

Double-bed sheets- 253. 9d., 30s. to £4, 4s.

per pair.

For servants' use a very good twilled calico

sheet with plain hem can be bought at 6s. 6d. per

pair, and a rather better quality at 8s. per pair.

The more expensive sheets have very often a

pretty embroidered piece for turning over at

the top.

The Jaeger or Sanitary Sheet. - This is a special

kind of sheet made of pure wool, and of a thin

texture that can easily be washed. The Jaeger

sheets are used principally for children and

deUcate people, and especially for those troubled

with rheumatism. The price varies from 193. 6d.

to 30s. for a single-bed sheet, and from 33s. 6d.

to 60s. for a double-bed sheet. They can be

liad either of a fine white cashmere or in the

natural wool or camel-hair shade. Pillow-cases

can also bo obtained in the same material.

Sheet-Shams. - These are fancy articles, and

not by any means a necessity for any one start-

ing housekeeping. They are strips of linen

hem-stitched, and generally very prettily em-

broidered, which are slipped in under the bed-

clothes and turned back over the cover to

resemble a sheet, and they give to a bed a

dainty appearance during the day.

Mattress Covers. - Every mattress should be

covered with a cotton slip to keep it clean, and

this need only be removed once or twice a year

to be washed. Unbleached calico or thin holland

is usually sold for the purpose.

Pillow and Bolster-Slips. - Material. - These

can bo either of cotton or of linen, to match

the sheets with which they are used, although

linen pillow-slips are very often used with cotton

sheets. Lovers of ease always prefer linen

pillow-slips to cotton ones, as they are cooler

for the head and smoother and softer to lie on.

Any one troubled with headaches or sleepless-

ness should always use tliem, as they check the

flow of blood to the head, and almost act as a

cold-water bandage.

Pillow-slips can bo bought ready made in

different sizes. They look very pretty hem-

stitched, and they can also be had with dainty

frills ; but it must be borne in mind that these

latter are not so durable, and that the washing of

them will cost more than that of the plainer kinds.

They can be had either fitted with tapes or with

buttons and button-holes. Upon the whole,

the latter method of fastening is to be preferred,

as it is more conducive to neatness.

The newest method of fastening is with a

double set of button-holes and small bone studs,

which can easily be slipped out when the pillow-

sUps are sent to the washing. It is a good plan

to sew these studs on to a length of tape - ^the

proper distance apart - and this will prevent

them from getting lost.

Bolster-slips are not always used, the under-

sheet being rolled round the bolster and mad"

to act as a cover. However, some people

prefer the separate cover, and it is certainly the

more comfortable arrangement, especially for

indifferent sleepers, as the cushions can be

moved about at will and arranged to suit one's

special comfort.

Bolster-slips can also be bought ready made,

but it is almost better to have them prepared to

order, and to suit the special shape of bolster.

They look better when they are drawn in at the

ends and not button-holed, or sometimes they

are made with a shaped piece at each end, which

gives the bolster a more handsome appearance.

The newest shape of bolster-slip is made

about half a yard longer than the bolster on

each side. The ends, which are left open, are

cither hem-stitched or embroidered, and the

extra length is allowed to hang over the sides

of the bed.

Both bolsters and pillows should also have an

under-cover of calico to preserve the tick, and

also to prevent the stripes of the latter showing

tlorough the outer case. An old pillow-slip or

bolster-slip will answer the purpose very well,

and they should be removed once or twice a

year to be washed. These inner slips are usually

sown on, but if fastened with tapes or buttons, the

open end should be put into the outer case first,

to prevent both fastenings coming together.

Size and Price. - Pillow-sHps must be bought

to fit the pillows for which they are intended,

and as these vary somewhat in size, it is im-

portant to take careful measurements. If too

tight the softness of the pillow is destroyed,

and on the other hand if they are too large they

look clumsy.

Very good hem-stitched pillow-cases can be

bought for 28. 6d. - fastened neatly at the ends

with hand-made button-holes and well finished -

and upwards to 83. each, and even more. With

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

259

frills they will cost from 3s. 6d. upwards. Plain

white calico slips can be had from 8d. to 2s. each,

and with frills from 2s. 6d. upwards.

PlUow-Shams. - These axe dainty ornamental

covers, which are laid over the pillows dui'ing

the day and removed at night. They are

generally made of fine Unen or muslin, em-

broidered prettily with initials and some other

design, and finished round the edges with lace

or cambric frills. Sometimes a large bow of

ribbon will ornament the centre. They help

to make a bed look pretty, and when carefully

folded at night they will keep clean for quite a

long time.

Quantity Required. - Allowances. - The careful

housewife should see that the hnen cupboard is

always kept well stocked with sufficient linen to

meet all emergencies. If each bed has its own

special linen, then three pairs of sheets, six pillow-

slips, and two or three bolster-slips will be a

very moderate supply for each, in order that the

linen cupboard may never be left without a

pair of sheets to fall back upon. If, however,

the hnen is used generally, and the cost of

washing has to be considered, six pairs of sheets,

twelve pillow-cases, and half-a-dozen bolster-

slips might do service for three beds. This,

however, is a minimum supply, and if frequent

change is indulged in, double the number would

not be too many.

Ideas vary much as to how often bed-linen

ought to be changed, and to have a liberal

allowance is certainly a luxury. When the

expense and trouble of washing has not to be

thought of, sheets may be changed as often as

three times a week, and pillow-sUps every day ;

but this amount is beyond the means of the

ordinary household, both as regards the supply

of linen required and the somewhat heavy wash-

ing bill entailed. Once a week is considered a

very good allowance, while once a fortnight

should be the minimum of change. To keep

sheets in use longer than this is not healthy.

Some people prefer to change one sheet each

week, always putting the top sheet down, while

others prefer to have all clean at once. One

pillow-slip a week at least should be allowed for

each person, and a bolster -slip if used should be

changed once a fortnight.

If the supply of bed-linen is limited, house-

keepers should arrange that all the bedt; are not

changed the same week, but in rotation. If

there is a number of beds, it will be as weU to

make a note in a small book of the dates when

each have been changed.

Servants too should be allowed one clean

sheet a week, or a pair a fortnight, and one clean

pillow-slip each week.

BED-COVERS OR COUNTERPANES

Dainty bed-covers add not a little to the

attractive appearance of a. bedroom, and they

should always be kept as fresh and clean as

possible. A httle care expended in selecting

new bed-covers will be amply rewarded in the

additional wear to be had out of a well-selected

article, which as a rule will combine the

quaUties of both decorativeness and durability.

Bed-covers are to be had in various styles, but

the all-white coverlet is always agood investment,

as it washes easily and looks well on any bed.

The tendency now is to have them of a very

light make, and some of the newest styles are in

white cotton or hnen embroidered and hem-

stitched, or a pretty white embroidered muslin.

The finer and open-work ones are usually

mounted on a sateen slip of a colour to match

the bedroom, and these shps are fastened to the

cover by means of small buttons and button-holes,

which are easily undone when the upper part

requires washing.

A very pretty embroidered cotton quilt can

be bought for 12s. 6d. for a small bed, and 18s 6d.

for a double-bed size and upwards. An em-

broidered and hem-stitched hnen cover will cost

from 23s. 6d. for a small, and 31s. 6d. for a

double-bed size, while several pounds may be

paid for one with a very elaborate design of

drawn- thread work and lace.

A white embroidered mushn cover, which

is very dainty and particularly suitable for

summer use, can be obtained for 16s. 6d. small

size, and 18s. 9d. large size, and upwards. An

under-sMp of sateen for these covers costs 10s. 6d.

or 12s. 6d., according to size, and any colour can

be chosen.

Coloured bed-spreads are also greatly used,

made of printed cotton or taffeta. To obtain

one of a good quality, it will be necessary to

pay from 12s. 9d. upwards. They shoiild be

chosen to suit the curtains, or the prevaihng

colour in the room for wliich they are intended.

For winter use, and especially if fires are burned

in the bedroom, these coloured qviilts are per-

haps more practical than the all wliite, and

especially where washing is a consideration.

Stronger counterpanes in colour suitable for

servants' use are sold for 4s. or 5s., and it is

quite possible too to get these with a nice

design and of a pretty shade. There is no

occasion to have something ugly because it is

cheaper than the finer quahties, and a maid is

more likely to take a pride in keeping her room

in order if some encouragement is given to her

to make it pretty.

Although somewhat out of date, the thick

whitљ Marcella and honej'comb quilts will always

be useful for hard wear, as they stand frequent

washing without any harm, and with care will

last for years.

The bed-spread or cover miist be large enough

to cover the bed. and hang well over the sides.

If no valance is used, a little extra width will

be reqmred.

One bed-cover at lesist will be required for

260

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

each bed, and two or three extra ones to allow

for washing. It is a good plan to have a change

of quilts in summer and winter.

TOILET COVERS AND DUCHESSE SETS

No toilet table is complete without its toilet

cover and doyleys, and the bedroom would

indeed have a neglected appearance where their

use was dispensed with. A daintily dressed toilet-

table adds materially to the cleanly and cheerful

aspect of a room, and besides nothing is more

calculated to show off a good piece of furniture

than this time-honoured essential to the toilet-

table equipment, wliilst on the other hand the

appearance of shabby fiu-niture can be con-

siderably improved upon by the use of clean

and dainty toilet sets. The variety in these is

almost endless, and choice must depend upon

individual taste.

The all-wliite covers, such as the Marcella and

Honeycomb, can be bought ready made in

various sizes frOm Is. and Is. 9d. each, and

upwards. They will stand any amount of hard

wear and frequent wasliing ; in fact, the material

will scarcely wear out. ^Vhen the fringes be-

come shabby, they should be cut off, and the

ends of the cover hemmed and trimmed with a

little edging if desired. The same material is

also to be had by the yard, known as " Toileting."

The required length can then be bought, neatly

hemmed at the ends and trimmed with crochet

edging or other suitable embroidery.

Of course, from an artistic point of view, the

above covers are not pretty ; they are strong

and clean -looking, but there is nothing dis-

tinctive about them. The daintiest covers are

those made to suit the room. A pretty cretonne

edged with lace and insertion, or a dainty

muslin with a frill of the same material, and

coloured sateen underneath, or again, a nicely

embroidered linen or some fancy material

worked in colours, can all be made to look very

nice and give a homelike appearance to the

room.

Instead of the all-over toilet cover, a Duchesse

set of matfl is frequently used, and this permits

of some of the wood of the toilet-table being

seen. Needless to say, these should only be

used where the table or chest has a good surface.

If the wood is shabby, it is much better to have

it entirely covered.

Duchesse sots can also bo had in strong white

Marcella material, and will cost from Is. per set

and upwards. The prettiest ones, however, are

in fine linen or damask and lace, or drawn-thread

V ork. The price of these will vary according to

the amount of work in them and the quality of

the lace. A simple hem-stitched set can be

procured for Is. 6d., while linen and lace will cost

from 2s. 6d. and upwards to almost any price.

But these are things which are frequently made

at home, as small odds and ends of linen, muslin.

lace, &c., can be so easily utilised for the pur-

pose.

For the changing of toilet covers no regular

rule can be laid down ; if the table is standing

near the open window and in a dusty situation,

the cover may look dirty at the end of a week,

whereas in a clean place it may retain its fresh

appearance for a month and even longer - there-

fore the only rule to go by is to change when

necessary.

Two toilet covers or sets will be required for

each room, unless they are used generally for

the different bedrooms, when one each and two

or throe over to allow for washing will be

sufficient.

TOWELS

Bedroom Towels. - General Remarks and

Material. - For ordinary use the linen huckaback

are the most suitable, while Hnen, damask or

diaper will serve the purpose when a fine towel

is required. The latter make very nice face

towels, as they are so fine and soft. Towels can

be bought ready made, either hemmetl, hem-

stitched, or vAth. fringes. Those with fringes are

scarcely to be recommended, as they so soon

become shabby and untidy -looking. If they are

chosen, it is wise to overcast the ends before

putting the towels in use, as this will prevent any

fraying out, unless this has already been done,

which is sometimes the case with the more

expensive towels. When the fringes become

shabby they should be cut off, and the ends of the

towels neatly hemmed.

Towelling can also be bought by the yard,

fifteen yaxds being of fair allowance for twelve

towels. But there is really Uttle to be gained

by doing this, as the ready-made towels have

generally some kind of border, and the others

would not have the same finished appearance.

The ends of towels are sometimes made orna-

mental by having a border worked across them,

very often in Russian cross-stitch, in blue and

white, red and white, or simply all wiiito ; or

a monogram or initials may be worked in one

corner, or any other effective design. Iho ends,

too, are sometimes trimmed with hand-made

lace - that of a strong make, such as a crochet

or knitted edging, being the most appropriate.

These little additions are considered by some

people to greatly improve the appearance of a

towel, and to make a pretty finish for those

destined for the guest-room ; but for practical

purposes the perfectly plain towel is to be

preferred.

Turkish towels are generally used for the bath.

They are made of cotton, with a raised fluffy sur-

face, and are very soft in texture. They can be

had either all white or a mixture of red and

white. Those of a large size are called bath

sheets. When a very rough towel is wanted

to produce friction after a bath, the brown linen

towelling should be asked for.

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

261

Unbleached huckaback towels of a stouter

make should be bought for servants' use, and

these can generally be had with a coloured border,

, which would serve as a distinguishing mark where

there are several maids. If something cheaper

is desired, then the cotton honeycomb towels

should be bought, and these too are made with

some colour introduced.

Size and Price. - Very good pure linen hucka-

back towels, grass bleached and of a soft finish,

can be bought for 14s. per dozen, and with a

damask border in a heavier make for 21s. per

dozen.

Damask and diaper towels will cost from 15s.

to 35s. per dozen.

Turkish bath towels (Christie's) are also sold

at from 15s. to 35s. per dozen, according to size

and quality, wMle a bath sheet can be obtained

for 3s. 9d., 5s., 6s. 6d. or 8s. 6d.

The rough crown Unen towels are 2s. each and

upwards.

The unbleached huckaback for servants' use

will be about 8s. 6d. or 12s. per dozen, while the

white honeycomb are only 6d. each and upwards.

A very suitable bath towel is also to be had for

lOd. or Is.

When buying towels it is well to compare the

sizes, as often by paying a shilling or two more

per dozen a few extra inches in length can be

obtained, and as the larger towel will not cost

more in the washing, this is a point worth

considering.

An ordinary towel should be at least 40 inches

long and 24 inches wide ; anything less than this

is very inadequate for the purpose, while an

inch or two larger would be a distinct advantage.

Bath towels especially are better if of a larger

size, while for a bath sheet double the above

proportions would not be too much.

Quantity Required - Allowances. - At least half-

a-dozen bedroom towels and three bath towels

should be allowed for each person. This will

allow of two face towels and one bath towel being

given out each week, the same number would

be at the washing, and the other three woiild

be in reserve. This is of course a very limited

supply ; as many people like to have their towels

changed more than once a week, the supply

would then have to be increased accordingly.

Bath sheets may be had in addition to the

above ; these need not be changed so frequently

as the bath towels.

The usual allowance for servants is one face

towel a week and a bath towel once a fortnight.

Three face towels and two bath towels would be

enough to allow for each maid.

BLANKETS

Choice. - In choosing blankets for the house-

hold it is advisable to select those of a first-rate

and reliable quality. Good blankets will not

only last longer than inlerior ones, but they

are warmer and lighter in make. Touch is the

best gtiide to choice ; they should have a soft and

silky feeUng, with a nice woolly surface.

In England the Witney blankets have the

finest finish, but the Yorkshire and Welsh are

very good for hard wear.

The Scotch blankets are also famous, and one

special feature of their manufactiire is that they

are generally all wool. They have a raised surface,

although not so much so as a Witney blanket.

A blanket should be large enough to tuck in

at both sides and at the bottom of the bed, but

must not be so wide that it touches the floor.

Where economy has to be considered, one pair

might be chosen smaller, if the upper one is large

enough to tuck in and keep all in position.

Before buying blankets it is very important

to know the exact size of the beds for which they

are required.

Quantity Required and Price. - Two pairs of

upper blankets and one under-blanket is a very

fair allowance for each bed. When an eider-

down qmlt is used one upper blanket may be

sufficient, but this is very much a question of

individual needs, and it is always well to have

one or two pairs of blankets in reserve.

A pair of very good single-bed blankets,

guaranteed all pvu-e wool, can be bought for 16s.

per pair, while as much as 45s. can be paid for

the same size in the finest and softest wool, with

a pretty silk binding in sky-blue, rose-pink, or

cream. For a double-bed blanket the price

will range from 21s. to 75s. per pair. They can

be suppUed either all white or with blue or red

lines, button-holed in the same colour.

For servants' use union blankets are generally

bought. These are rather harder to the touch,

as they are not all wool, but are woven with

a certain amount of cotton. They are not so

light in weight as an all-wool blanket, but are

very suitable for hard wear. The price of these

blankets will range from 8s. to 12s. 6d. per pair.

The under-blanket is generally a single blanket

which can be bought new for 4s. and upwards,

but except in the case of a new manage, a worn

or thin upper blanket can generally be used for

the purpose.

Scarlet blankets when they are preferred can

be bought for the same price as the white. Grey

blankets are now little used, except those of a

very hard make, which are sold for charity

purposes.

The Scotch blankets are generally sold by

weight. For instance, the well-known make

called " Scotch Teviot " are made in weights

from 5 lbs. to 10 lbs. 6 lbs. is a good single-bed

size, and measures about 68 by 76 inches. 9 lbs.

is a good double-bed size, and measures about

78 by 90 inches. An extra large size weiglis 10

lbs., and measures 80 by 94 inches.

This range is sold according to quality - 6 lbs.

weight from 17s. 9d. to 25s. retail ; 9 lbs. weight

from 21s. 9d. to 42s. retail.

262

THE 'WOMAN'S BOOK

Tho twilled blanket is also much used as

binders or uftder-blankets. Thoy roscmblo very

much a serge materi{il, but are very warm and

durable. Tho prices are from 10s. to 18s, a

pair (retail).

Note. - Tho above particulars and prices re-

garding Scotch blankets have been kindly sup-

plied by Jlessrs. Charles Jennor & Co., Princes

Street, Edinburgh.

Of course, it will be quite possible to buy

blankets at a much lower price than the above,

but nothing cheaper can bo really recommended

for comfort and good wear, unless it may be

a lot slightly soiled which can sometimes be

picked up at a sale.

Marking Blankets. - Blankets should always be

C£irefully marked. This is best done in wool,

worked in cross-stitch from a sample (see p. 406).

Tlie lettering should match in colour the

button-holing on the blanket or any colour

introduced in the weaving. If the blanket is all

white, then the sewing might be done in some

pretty contrasting colour. Cash's woven letter-

ing can also be used for the purpose, or the name

be written in ink on a piece of tape and sewn on

to the blanket, but the first method looks best.

Care and Cleaning of Blankets. - Blankets that

are not in use should be stored away in a blanket

chest or on the shelves of the linen cupboard.

If they are to be left for some time, precautions

must be taken to prevent their being attacked

by moths. Put camphor, naphtha balls, or

Russia leather parings between the folds, and

then sew the blankets into a piece of old sheeting

or other cotton material, taking care that no

holes are left where the moths could enter.

The washing or cleaning of blankets is another

very important point. Some people consider

that if they are cleaned once a year, generally

at the annual spring cleaning, this should be

sufficient ; but one must be guided somewhat

by circumstances. If the blankets are used in

a room where a fire is frequently hghted, or in

a smoky and foggy neighbourhood, twice a year

will not bo too often to have them attended to.

Then again after a case of illness the blankets

used on the Ijod should always be cleaned, and, if

necessary, disinfected as well. Of course, un-

necessary weishing must be avoided, as it im-

poverishes the material, and there is always tho

danger of a certain amount of shrinking.

If washing is the modo of cleaning to be

adopted, then great care must be taken in the

choice of the laundry to which they are sent.

Preference should be given to one where they are

dried in the open air. If there is the slightest

doubt aa to their being well done at a laundry,

then it is a much wiser plan to send blankets

to a professional cleaner. The price for cleaning

will vary from Is. to 28. per pair, according to

size, which may mean a little extra expanse as

compared with washing, but it is cheap when

one considers that the so-called weishing often

spells " ruin " to a beautiful blanket. In the

case of new blankets, it is always better to have

them cleaned instead of washed, as the first

time of washing is always more difficult. It

must be remembered, too, that once a blanket

becomes clotted and non-porous through bad

washing, it ceases to be so healthy.

The length of time blankets keep clean depends

upon the care that is taken of them. They

should be protected by night as well as by day

with a cover of some sort. So if the bed-cover

is removed at night, whicli is the correct thing

to do, there should be a thin cover underneath or

an ordinary sheet to cover the blankets. Then

again, when a bed is being turned down or made,

the blankets must not be allowed to sweep the

floor, but be laid over the backs of two chairs,

and then handled carefully. It is a good plan

to have the blankets well brushed from time to

time, and hung in the open air for a few hours.

Upper blankets are always sold in pairs, but

some people prefer to have them neatly cut in

two, and the raw edges button-holed in wool to

match the other end of the blanket.

Mending of Blankets. - When blankets begin to

show signs of wear, they should be carefully

darned with wool of the same colour, and when

a hole appears it should be neatly patched with

a piece of blanketing of a suitable texture.

(For details, see under Needlework, p. 415.)

What to do with Old Blankets. - Old blankets

can be utilised in many different ways. Large

blankets can be cut down to make blankets for

beds of a smaller size, or if not sufficiently good

for the purpose they may be used as under-

blankets. If very thin, the material might be

doubled and button-holed together at the edges,

and this would make a capital under-blanket.

Then in houses where there are children small

pieces of blankets will be found invaluable, either

to cover them when they are asleep or for them

to sit on. In cases of sickness, too, scraps of

blanket are frequently required for fomentations

and other purposes. Small pieces will also be

required for patching other blankets ; and very

old pieces will always be found useful as floor-

cloths or for cleaning purposes, such as the

waishing of paint, &c.

TABLE LINEN

It has often been said that the refinement of

a household may bo judged to some extent by

its table appointments, and more particularly

by the dainty freshness of the table napery.

The soiled and crumpled table-cloth replete

with holes is characteristic of the third-rato

lodging-house and not of the well-ordered

household.

If when buying table-cloths a littlo care is

expended upon their selection, to keep them

in good condition should bo a comparatively

simple matter ; always providing, of course.

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

263

that they are entrusted when soiled to a fairly

capable laundress, and that the proverb " A

stitch in time saves nine " is borne well in

mind.

Double damask, bleached or unbleached, is

the best material to buy. It wears well, and

keeps its appearance to the end. There is

nothing to be gained by buying inferior table

linen ; it may have a very fine glossy surface

when new, but the first washing removes all

this dressing and leaves only a poor limp material

which wrinkles up and soils very readily.

The design to be chosen is entirely a matter of

taste, and each season shows something new.

It must be borne in mind, however, that the

newest designs generally cost a little more money,

so, where economy has to be considered, it is

as well to ask for something of an earlier date,

which may at the same time be just as pretty

and eflEective. As a rule, a table-cloth with a

small all-over pattern, such as spots, stars,

diamonds or small sprigs, is cheaper than one

with a large central design and border.

Table-cloths with some colour introduced,

generally red or blue, are used by some people

as luncheon or breakfast cloths, but the fasliion

is more German than English, and at present

is not much in favour.

Then there is a fashion at present for using

dinner sets - a centre and mats in place of a

cloth ; but tills can only be adopted by those

who have a very finely poUshed table or a

beautiful oak surface to show, and is not likely

to become general.

For kitchen use the unbleached dameisk cloths

answer the purpose ver\ well, as they will not soil

so quickly as the pure white cloths. They

ought to be bought strong and good, although

the quality need not be so fine as the other

household cloths.

Table napkins, or serviettes, to be correct,

should match the table-cloth with which they

are to be used in quality and design. Tliis,

however, entails additional expenditure, as

a much larger number will be required than

when they are used generally with any cloth.

For this reason it is a good plan to buy two

table-cloths of one pattern, as it wiU then be

found easier to regulate the supply of serviettes.

In fact, in small households of moderate means

it is just as well for everyday use to buy all the

serviettes alike, and to choose a small un-

obtrusive pattern that can be used with any

cloth. Then for special occasions there can

bo a set kept in reserve which matches the

best tablo-cloth in pattern and quality.

Size and Price. - The size of the table-cloth is

very important, as it will not look well unless it

hangs at least half a yard over each end of

the table and twelve inches at the sides. Care-

ful measvu-ements should therefore be taken of

the tables for which the cloths are required

before buying is thought of.

A very good double damask table-cloth in a

small spot design can be bought at the follow-

ing prices : - 2 by 2 yards, 10s. ; 2 by 2^ ygu-ds,

12s. ; and 2 by 3 yards, 14s. ; and these are par-

ticularly suitable for breakfast or luncheon cloths.

Those of a more elaborate design will cost from

14s. 6d. to 27s, 6d., 18s. to 35s. 6d., and 21s. 6d.

to 42s. and upwards for the same sizes re-

spectively, while larger sizes wiU cost still more

in proportion. A large cloth of very fine quality

cannot be bought under £4 or £5.

Other designs in fine quality damask, with

hand-made lace insertion and hem-stitched

borders, will cost from 60s. to £18 and upwards,

according to size and the quaUty of the work.

Serviettes are made in different sizes - i.e.

22, 27, and 31 inches squaxe ; the medium size

is the most usual, although the smallest ones

are frequently used for breakfast. Very good

serviettes can be bought for 16s. 6d. per dozen

for the medium size and 12s. 9d. for the smaU

size, while as much as 45s. and 68s. can be given

for the same size in an extra fine quality.

There are a number of small articles in the way

of table Unen, such as tray-cloths, afternoon

tea-cloths, doyleys, carving-cloths, sideboard-

cloths, table-cloths, &c., which will also be

required in a household, but a list of these is

scarcely necessary, as they must be bought to

supply indi\adual needs. These are the little

things which are frequently given as presents

to those starting house for the first time, while

in an old-established menage scraps of damask,

linen, &c=, can often be utilised for the purpose.

In any case, they should never be bought in

large quantities, as they can so often be picked

up at a very moderate rate and at odd times as

the use for them arises. Fashions too change so

quickly, that it is better to have a small stock

and renew it when necessary.

Quantity required. - Allau-ances. - Tliis, again,

depends very much upon the means of the

household, and must be regulated according to

indixidual circumstances and the special arrange-

ment of meals. In houses where a large amount

of entertaining is done the quantity will neces-

sarily be increased.

A very moderate supply would be four table-

cloths of average size for each meal, and three

dozen serviettes, two cloths of extra quality and

extra size, if necessary, for each meed, and two

dozen ser\aettes to match.

It is always better to keep a cloth specially

for dinner, and a different one for breakfast and

luncheon or supper. In this case perhaps it

will be sufficient to give out one of each kind

in a week, although in many houses the dinner

cloth will be changed as often as tliree times

a week.

Serviettes should be changed at least twice a

week, or fresh ones for dinner every day where

it can be afforded. One table-cloth a week is

the usual allowance for servants' use.

264

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The table linen has so much to do with the

success of a meal that it should never bo

allowed to become too dirty or crushed. If a

table-cloth heis to do duty for several days and

look well all the time, great care must bo taken of

it. It should bo folded carefully and always

in the original creases, and each fold should

bo smoothed out with the hands. If it is kept

in a drawer, it must be laid perfectly flat, but

what is better still is to put it

into a hnen press, as shown in the

accompanying diagram. When

the cloth has been laid in between

the boards, tho tension should be

screwed down as tightly as it

will go without destroying the

material, and if the table-cloth is

I ■ I H allowed to remain several hours,

I '"^ I ■•^ it will come out looking as if it

l1"- X--' had been newly " done up." Tho

screw of the press should bo

loosened when not in use. Failing

a press, the cloth may be slowly mangled if it has

become very much crushed.

Another point about table-cloths is that they

should never be put directly on tho bare table.

An old table-cloth or piece of felt should always

be laid under it. This not only acts as a silence

cloth, but it enables one to lay tho cloth more

smoothly. If a piece of felt has to be bought

for the purpose, then wliite should be chosen,

as then there will be no fear of staining should

water or any other Uquid be spilt.

Kitchen and Household Towels. - Besides the

towels required for bedroom use, there is also

a stock indispensable to kitchen and household

purposes, such as : -

Roller Towels.

Linen Press.

Glass Towels.

Tea Cloths.

Kitchen Towels.

Slop Cloths.

Lavatory Towels.

Pudding Cloths.

Hearth Qoths.

Dusters.

Oven Cloths.

&c.

All household cloths should be hemmed and

marked with the name and purpose for which

they are intended. If there are several servants

in a house, it is a good plan to let each one have

her own special set for wliich she is held respon-

sible, and they ouglit to be instructed as to the

legitimate use of cacli kind. In somo household

towels the name of its kind is wovcninto each one,

such as "Glass Towel," " Tea Cloth," " Kitchen,"

&c., then to distinguish one maid's towels from

another's they can be bought in various styles

and colours, with a blue and white or red and

white check, a blue or rod border, or all white,

and so on. If just a little difference is made,

coruusion will bo avoided, and tlio blame of lost

towels will not be likely to fall upon tho WTong

person.

Towels and dusters should bo given out

regularly once a week, and tho last week's lot

should always bo accounted for. Tlio number

required depends entirely upon the amount of

work to bo done. It is a mistake to be niggardly

in giNnng out supplies - ^it should be remembered

that people have different ways of working, and

as a rule it is not wise to limit a good worker,

but to give what is asked for witWn reason.

The only point that must bo insisted upon is

that the towels and dusters are kept clean, taken

care of, and never bundled away damp in dark

corners.

Except in the case of a young manage, it should

not be necessary to buy all these towels new.

The duster supply especially can generally bo

provided for by using up pieces of old soft

material ; thin bedroom towels can be cut

down to make lavatory towels or basin cloths,

and old bath towels for drying floors and so on.

(See also " What to do with Old Linen," p. 267.)

If now dusters must be bought, they can bo

procured ready made from 3d. each, or if the

material alone is bought, there is notliing better

than a cheap sateen. This can be cut up in

convenient pieces, and a hem laid and machined

round in a very short time. These will be found

excellent for furniture, and they become softer

each time they are washed.

Dish cloths again can be made of any old soft

material, such as remnants of Turkish or other

old towelhng. It is a mistake to have them

very close in texture, or they \\nll too readily

absorb grease. There is really nothing better

than the knitted kind, made of strong unbleached

knitting cotton worked with rather coarse

needles. These wear well and can be washed

and boiled over and over again.

Cloths known as " swabs " are very useful for

house cleaning. They are made of a coarso

open material, and are better and stronger than

flannel for washing floors, tiles, and doorsteps,

and they have the fiu-ther advantage of leaving

no fluff behind. Tlie price is about 2d. each.

Dust Sheets. - Old sheets or bed-covers can

generally bo used, but where these are not

available, thin unbleached calico or holland

should be bought and sown up into suitable

sizes. It will cost from 4Jd. to 6d. per yard.

The number of dust-sheets required will depend

entirely upon tho amount of furniture to be

covered.

House Flannel. - A linen cupboard should al-

ways contain a supply of this, but it must be

given out with care. The remains of old blankets

can often be utilised.

THE LINEN CUPBOARD

The durability of linen depends very much

upon its being well kept. If it is treated with

care, it will not only look better, but it will last

longer. To keep it nicely, a linen cupboard or

its equivalent is a necessity. In houses with

good cupboard accommodation, and especially in

the old-fasliioned ones, a place specially fitted

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

265

up for linen is generally provided. Sometimes

even a small room can be reserved for the

purpose, where, in addition to the linen proper,

spare blankets, curtains, and other upholstery

which is not in use can be comfortably stored

away. The linen cupboard should be in a

Linen Cupboard.

dry and airy situation, and not against an

outside wall, which is not always free from

nnoistixre. If linen is allowed to become damp

it mildews and rots very quickly. It can

frequently be arranged that the hot-water

pipes going to the bath-room pass through the

linen cupboard, and the inner wall is warmed by

a kitchen flue, or that the shelving is fitted in

close proximity to a hot-water tank. In this

way the linen is kept well aired.

If no special cupboard is provided, and in

modern houses, and especially in flats, this is

frequently the case, tnen perhaps an ordinary

cupboard can bo utihsed, or an old-fashioned

wardrobe with shelves and drawers underneath.

Failing this, it is sometimes possible to have

shelving fitted up in some recess, and then a

light wooden door made to keep it free from

dust ; or merely a door frame, the panels being

filled in with some pretty cretonne or tapestry.

A linen cupboard should be well provided

with shelves, and these should be wide enough

to hold folded bed and table linen comfortably,

with a little room to spare. The shelves are

frequently made of simple spars of wood with

spaces between, and this plan allows the air to

circulate round the linen better than it would

in the case of solid wood.

Arrangement. - The shelves of the linen cup-

board should be covered with thin calico or with

strong white paper, which can be renewed from

time to time. Each kind of linen should have

a shelf or a portion of a shelf devoted to itself ;

ihna bed linen should be arranged in one place,

table linen in another, towels in another, and so

on. Linen sheets should be kept separate from

cotton sheets, large sheets from small sheets,

different sets of table-linen by themselves, each

class of towel by itself, &c., and all of one kind

together. AiTauge the linen methodically in

neat piles, and in an order most convenient to

yourself. Finer and better tilings which are

not in common use should be wrapped up in

muslin or pieces of old sheeting and labelled ;

otherwise they are Uable to be pulled out by

mistake and used in a hurry. The shelves of

the linen cupboard must be kept carefully

covered to prevent the dust falling on the hnen.

Some people have small rods fixed to the

edges of the shelves, by which covers can be

attached by means of rings or a casing, and

these can then be folded back over the linen,

or loose covers of thin hoUand fastened to the

edges of the shelves with large drawing-pins

will answer the purpose very well. The covers

must be large enough to cover the linen well

and to tuck in all round. Needless to say, they

must be kept very clean and washed at regular

intervals. The door of the linen cupboard

must always be kept locked, or at least tightly

closed.

Scenting the Linen. - The old-fashioned plan

of putting lavender among the bed Unen is

a very dainty one. The dried lavender can

either be bound up in bundles, or the flowers

put into a muslin or thin silk bag, and laid

between the folds of the sheets and pillow-cases.

Instead of lavender, dried rose-leaves, helio-

trope, verbena, or powdered oris-root can all be

used. Any of these will give a dehcate scent

to the bed-linen.

Marking. - It is very important to have every

article in the linen cupboard carefully and

distinctly marked. Shopkeepers who supply

the linen are generally very willing to do this

in ink, free of charge. There are different

methods of marking, and, of course, the most

artistic is to have the name or monogram of

the owner embroidered on the material.

Linen drapers will generally undertake to do

this on payment of the required fee - the

simple initials will only cost a few pence, wliile

more elaborate designs will, of course, be more

costly. A pretty monogram may cost as

much as 5s. or 7s. Those who have time and

clever fingers will like to do it at home, and the

process is not a difficult one.

Cash's lettering is another way of marking.

A combination of any two letter combinations

can be bought ready for lOd. per box of one

gross, or any length name made to order in ten

days, in Script, Old English, or Block style type,

for 4s. 6d. per gross, 2s. 9d. per half gross.

These can be embroidered in red, navy, black,

blue, yellow, green or white, on fine tape, and

are easily sewn on to the linen. They do very

well, for such things as sheets, blankets and

towels, but would not look well on table linen.

There is always the danger, too, of their being

picked off if the linen passes through the hands

of dishonest people. If the washing of the

linen is to be done in a public laundry, the

simple ink marking is as good as any. The

266

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

mark should be put in the top left-hand corner,

as it is most convenient for folding. In addi-

tion to the name, it is a good plan when

marking to put the number of articles in each

set, and the date of purcliaso as well, thus -

supposing the name to be Grant, and the

number of articles six, one would put

6- Grant, 1910.

In the case of bed-linen some people put

a mark to show for wliich room it is intended

as well, and with table-hnen when separate

table-cloths are vised, for luncheon and dinner,

the word luncheon or dinner could bo marked

in accordingl}'. If the marking is to be done

in ink at homo, be ceireful to choose one of

a reliable quality, as inferior kinds turn a

bad colour, and sometimes biu-n a hole in the

fabric. If there is any uncertainty as to the

ink being satisfactory, it will be wise to test it

first on a piece of rag ; then submit the rag

to all the processes of washing, boiling, and

ironing, and see how the ink stands the treat-

ment. If good, it should come out clear and

black. A metal pen should never be used for

marking, as the steel of the pen combined with

the ink often forms an acid, which spoils the

linen. A ' proper quill pen for the purpose is

usually sold with each bottle of ink.

Small india-rubber 'Stamps can be bought for

marking linen, but the resvdt is not elegant.

These are more smtable for large institutions

than for home use.

Kitchen towels and dusters mvist bo marked

as methodically as bed linen.

Inventory. - It is very important, too, that a

list bo made of every article the hnen cupboard

contains. This should bo entered in a small

book kept for the purpose, and space should be

left for any notes or alterations. It is a good

plan to put a note of the price and the date of

purchase against each article, as tliis is useful

for future reference. When new hnen is bought,

it must at once be added to the hst, and any

that is discarded should be struck off. The list

•will require revision from time to time, and the

Btock should bo counted carefully and compared

with the numbers in the book. If the Unen is

in charge of one of the maids of the household,

the mistress should go over the list with her

and check every item. A simple copy of the

list, without any notes and comments, might

also be fastened to the door of the linen cup-

board by means of drawing-pins, as this can be

easily referred to at a glance. Of course, some

of these details may be simplified in very small

houses, although at all times it is wiser to

have housekeeping done in a methodical and

business-like manner, and it really saves time and

expense in the end.

Care of Soiled Linen. - To allow soiled linen to

accumulate is a habit to be condemned. Both

personal and bed linen is liable to have an un-

pleasant odour, and the sooner it can be washed

the more sanitary and hygienic it will be for

every one concerned. A weekly washing is

strongly to be recommended, and under no

circumstances should soiled linen remain un-

washed longer than a fortnight. Meanwhile,

it must be kept in a ventilated receptacle. A

light basket is the usual thing, and nothing

could bo better. If possible, the soiled linen

should be kept in a small room or closet that is

not used for sleeping purposes - it is not a

healthy custom to store it in a bedroom, but

where this is unavoidable, there is all the more

necessity to have it turned out and washed as

soon as possible.

Sending out the Washing. - Before sending out

a waslnng, great care must bo taken to make an

accurate Ust of all the articles. The list should

be written in a book, and not on slips of paper,

which are readily lost. In large households it

is a good plan to make the list in duplicate,

sending one copy to the laundry and reserving

the other for reference on return of the wasliing.

Some laundries supply their own books with a

printed hst of the different items, and all that

is necessary is to date it and fill in the number

of the different articles. Or special laundiy

books, such as Lett's, can be bought for a few

pence. Everything that requires washing

should first be collected together in a given place,

and if there are different maids in the house

each one should be responsible for the collecting

of her own towels, &c. Then have the things

divided into lots, according to their kind, and

carefully counted. If the washing is a large one,

it will be much easier if two can be engaged at

the work ; then one can do the counting, while

the other enters the numbers in the book. It

is always safer to count everything tvvice in case

of any mistakes. It is always well too, in making

the Ust, to put some notification of the kind of

article sent - such as Zinen • sheets, cotton sheets,

large table-cloths, kitchen table-cloths, and not

merely to classify them under the heading of

sheets or table-cloths respectively.

The soiled linen must then be put into bags or

packed in a basket ready to be sent away, and

the written list must in all cases accompany it.

For directions for home washing, see

" Guide to Laundry Work," p. 271.

Return of the Washing. - When the Unen is re-

turned from the washing, it must bo most care-

fully checked, first as regards numbers, and then

as regards the kind of washing it has received,

and the mending that may be required. If

there is any article missing, it should have a

mark put against it in the book, and inquiry

must at once be made about it, and when re-

ceived a note must be made of the fact in the

book. It is also important when checking to

examine the linen to see that all has been well

washed, and if there is anything faulty, it should

be returned to the laundry with a note asking

that it should be redone and returned in better

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

267

condition. It is a good plan to keep a list of the

laundry prices at hand, so as to compare them

with those marked in the book. Anything re-

quiring mending miist be put aside until it can

have attention, and the remainder aired if

necessary, and then put away in its proper place

on the shelves. The freshly washed articles

should always be put at the foot of the pile

already there, as this will ensure equal wear,

everything being used in rotation. Regular use

is also a protection from mildew.

Airing of Linen. - It is most important that

all Unen should be thoroughly dry before it is

laid away. In many cases it is not necessary to

air it when it comes from the laundry, as it

arrives almost warm from the hot air closets,

but where the least dampness is suspected it

should have attention, or it will be liable to

gather mildew. And then again, just before

bed lineu is used, it shotild be well aired, unless

the linen cupboard happens to be a heated one.

The sheets should be hung in front of a good

hot fire, and turned and re-turned until they

are warmed through and through. If linen

is stored in a cold cupboard, it readily absorbs

moisture, whilst a spell of wet weather, especially

after frost, will render it quite damp, and when

we consider what serious results may follow the

sleeping in damp sheets, the slight extra trouble

of airing the linen will not be objected to.

Mending of House Linen. - After the first few

weeks of wear hnen will require examination for

repairs. Buttons and tapes soon begin to dis-

appear, the ends of hems and seams come un-

done, and other stiti hes here and there will be

required. Then later on more serious mending

will be necessary - patching, darning, and adapt-

ing. The housewife need never be ashamed

of linen that is well mended ; on the contrary

she should be proud of it, fop it will serve to give

eloquent testimony of her patience and thrift.

The proper time for patching and darning

house linen is before sending it to the washing,

and slight rents must have instant attention.

If it is not convenient to mend bed linen and

towels before washing, any holes or tears must at

least be drawn together or roughly mended with

a needle and cotton, or the hard treatment to

which they will probably be subjected in the

laundry will only tend to increase them tenfold.

Table linen, however, must always be mended

before it is done up, as it would be impossible to

do it when starched and ironed without crushing

it considerably. If a large patch or darn is

required, it is even better to have the damask

washed and rough dried in order to remove all

the dressing before attempting the mending.

Wlien sheets show signs of wear in the middle,

it is a good plan to cut them in two lengthways,

and to join the two outer edges together. The

cut edges will then reqviire to be hemmed. Or

if a large sheet begins to wear in other paxts, per-

haps the best pieces can be taken to make a sheet

for a smaller bed or cot. Always try to get as

much as you can out of a sheet before putting it

aside as old linen.

Note. - For directions for mending, see

Needlework Section, p. 411.

What to do with old Linen. - No matter how

much care is taken of house Unen it will even-

tually wear out.

Old cotton sheets can always be used as dust-

sheets, or if these are not required, the best

pieces can be cut out and made into cloths for

various household purposes, covers for the hnen

cupboard, covers for drawers, or for wrapping

up fine Unen or blankets, &c.

An old Unen sheet is more valuable, and the

remains should be put to some better use. The

top and bottom which has not had very hard

wear will Ukely be in good condition, and a strip

can no doubt be cut off wliich, with a little hem-

stitching and embroidery, will make quite dainty

sheet-shams. Or smaU good portions might be

made into pillow-shams, and smaUer pieces still

could be cut up into centres for doyleys and tray

cloths, or the cover for a cosy, or perhaps even

a complete toilet set for a bedroom. Any one

with clever fingers and a Uttle ingenuity can,

with some embroidery and the addition of

pretty lace and insertion, make many a dainty

article out of smaU pieces of Unen. Pieces of

Unen which are too worn to be worth any sewing

should be carefully rolled up and laid aside, as

they wiU no doubt be found invaluable in the

case of sickness.

Old table-cloths, when they can no longer be

darned or patched, can be cut down into tray

cloths, sideboard cloths, ceu-xang cloths, &c.,

and also it is always weU to keep a few old pieces

of damask at hand for patching and mending.

Old towels can always be used up as household

cloths ; in fact, the more thin and worn they are

the more useful and valuable they wiU be for

some purposes. A collection should always be

made in view of any spring or special cleaning ;

they wiU come in very handy for the drying of

paint and woodwork, &c., and a plentiful supply

wiU be a great boom.

Old pillow-cases make useful bags for keeping

various patching materials, &c.

Old Blankets. (See p. 262.)

Replenishing the Linen Cupboard. - It is not

wise to allow the linen supply to fall too low, ets

this will mean pajang out a big sum sooner or

later to bring it back to its normal condition.

It is much better, when it can be managed, to add

something new every year, even although it may

only be a pair of good sheets, half-a-dozen towels,

a fine table-cloth, or a few serviettes. In this

way the supply is kept up at very Uttle expense.

It might just be mentioned here that household

Unen is one of the things that can often be very

profitably bought at a sale. The large linen

warehouses sell off their old stock, either because

the patterns are not of the latest or because the

268

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

materials are shop soiled, and as this in nowise

detracts from the value of the article a great

saving can be realised by buying what is neces-

sary at these times.

The following lists with estimates have been

compiled from information kindly supphed by

Messrs. Waring & Gillow, Oxford Street, London,

and wiU perhaps bo a guide to those who have to

stock their linen cupboard for the first time.

Tlie quantities can, of course, be increased or

decreased according to special requirements.

Eatimate No. 1- £17 18s. 5d.

Description.

Price.

Amount.

£ s.

3 double damask cloths, 2

by 2i yards . . .

1 11

2 double damask cloths, 2

by 3 yards ....

1 5

I dozen double damask

dinner napkins

3 damask tray cloths . .

2 damask sideboard cloths

2 kitchen table cloths

3 pair cotton sheets, 2| by

3J yards ....

1 17

2 pair cotton sheets, 2 by

3J yards ....

12 cotton pillow-cases

10^

4 pair servants' cotton

sheets, 2 by 3 yards

1 4

4 servants' pillow-cases .

1 dozen linen bedroom

towels

G servants' towels . . .

6 white Turkish bath

towels

4 J

^ dozen glass cloths

J dozen tea and china

cloths

J dozen strong kitchen

rubbers

J dozen housemaids' cloths

1 dozen check dusters .

4 linen roller towels . .

2 pudding cloths . . .

4 knife cloths ....

2 pair double -bed blankets

1 17

2 under blankets . . .

1 pair single-bod blankets

1 under blanket

2 large white toilet quilts

1 0

1 single-bed white toilet

quilt

2 pair servants' blankets .

1 0

2 under blankets . . .

2 servants' coloured qtiilts

4 white toilet covers . .

2 servants' toilet covers .

£17 18

Eatimate No. 2- £31 IGs. 2d.

Description.

4 superior double damask

cloths, 2 by 2^ yards

(hand woven) . . .

2 superior double damask

clotlis, 2 1 by 3 yards

(hand woven)

IJ dozen superior double

damask napldns, 27

inches square (hand

woven)

J dozen damaskfish napkins

4 damask carving napkins

or tray cloths . . .

2 damask (or hem-stitched

linen) sideboard cloths

2 kitchen table cloths, 2 by

2 yards

3 pair double -bed Unen

sheets, 2f by 3J yards

3 pair single - bed linen

sheets, 2 by 3^ yards

12 Unen pillow-cases (hem

stitched) ....

4 pair servants' cotton

sheets, 2 by 3 yards

4 servants' cotton pillow

cases

1 dozen linen huckaback

bedroom towels

1 dozen linen diaper bed

room towels (hem

stitched) ....

J dozen servants' linen

bedroom towels

G large white Turkish bath

towels ....

1 dozen glass cloths

1 dozen tea cloths . .

1 dozen strong kitchen

rubbers ....

I dozen housemaids' cloths

1 dozen check dusters .

1 dozen soft polishing

dusters ....

6 linen roller towels . .

3 pudding cloths .

J dozen knife cloths

1 hearth-rug cover .

1 dozen sponge cloths, for

lamps, &c. . . .

2 pair double-bed fine wool

blankets

2 under blankets . . .

1 pair single-bed fine wf

blankets

1 under blanket .

2 pair servants' blankets

2 under blankets . . .

Price.

Amount.

£ 8.

3 0

2 G

1 IG

4 2

3 3

1 4

1 8

2 10

1 4

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

269

Estimate No. 2 - continued.

2 fine white toilet quilts,

for double beds

1 fine white toilet quilt,

for single beds . .

2 servants' coloured quilts .

4 white toUet covers . .

2 servants' toilet covers

8. d.

15 0

£ s.

1 10

£31 16

Estimate No. 3- £67 5s. lOd.

Description.

4 fine double damask table

cloths, 2 J by 2 J yards

3 fine double damask table-

cloths, 2i by 3 yards .

1 fine double damask table

cloth, 2J by 4 yards .

4 dozen fine double damask

napkins, 27 by 27 ins.

1 dozen damask fish nap-

kins

1 dozen damask pastry

napkins

6 damask tray or carving

napkins, 31 by 36 ins.

2 damask (or hem-stitched

linen) sideboard cloths

3 kitchen table cloths, 2 by

2J yards

2 dishing-up cloths, IJ by

Ij yards

4 pair fine Unen sheets for

double beds, 3 by 3^

yards (hem-stitched) .

4 pair fine hnen sheets for

single beds, 2 by 3 J

yards (hem-stitched) .

18 fine linen hem-stitched

pillow-covers (square

or oblong) ....

6 pair servants' superior

cotton sheets, 2 by 3

yards

6 servants' superior cotton

pillow-covers

1 dozen strong linen hucka-

back towels .

1 dozen fine linen hucka-

back towels (hem-

stitched)

1 dozen fine soft Unen diaper

towels (hem-stitched)

1 dozen servants' strong

linen huckaback tow els

Price.

Amount

£ s.

5 0

4 10

2 2

6 0

1 1

8 8

6 0

3 3

2 11

1 1

Estimate No. 3 - continued.

6 large whitљ Turkish bath

towels

6 extra large Turkish bath

towels

2 white Turkish bath sheets

1 dozen glass cloths, fine

quality

1 dozen tea or china cloths,

fine quality ....

1 dozen linen dusters

1 dozen soft poUshing cloths

or dusters ....

1 dozen housemaids' cloths

(basin)

1 dozen strong large kitchen

rubbers

1 dozen soft large kitchen

rubbers

8 Hnen roller towels .

J dozen pudding cloths .

1 dozen knife cloths

2 hearth-rug covers .

1 dozen sponge cloths, for

lamps, &c

2 pair large double - bed

blankets

2 under blankets ....

2 pair single-bed blankets .

2 under blankets . . .

3 pair Liervants' strong

heavy blankets . . .

3 under blankets ....

3 fine white toilet quilts for

double beds ....

3 fine white toilet quilts for

single beds ....

4 servants' coloured quilts

6 fine white toilet covers .

4 servants' toilet covers

£67

Eatimxite No. 4- £177 3s. Id.

Description.

6 extra fine double damask

table cloths, 2J by 2i

yards

4 extra fine double damask

table cloths, 2i by 3

yards

4 extra fine double damask

table cloths, 2 J by 4

yards

2 extra fine double damask

table cloths, 2\ by 5

yards

Price.

8. d.

37 6

45 0

63 0

84 0

Amount.

£ 5. d.

11 5 0

9 0 0

12 12 0

8 8 0

270

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Estimate No. 4 - continued.

1 extra fiiio double damask

table cloth, 2J by 6

yjU-ds

6 dozen extra fine double

damask napkins, 27 by

27 inches

2 dozen extra fine double

damask breakfast nap-

kins, 22 by 22 inches .

dozen extra fine double

damask tray or carv-

ing napkins. 31 by 36

ins

2 dozen damask fish napkins

(large and small) . .

2 dozen bread and pastry

napkins

4 damask (or hem-stitched

linen) sideboard cloths

3 afternoon tea cloths .

4 strong damask cloths, for

upper servants, 2 by 2

yards

4 kitchen table cloths, 2 by

2 J yards

4 extra strong disliing-up

cloths, 1 J by 2 yards .

6 pair fine linen hem-

stitched sheets, for

double beds, 3 by 3|

yards

8 pair fine linen hem-

stitched sheets, for

single bods, 2 by 3|

yards

30 fine linen hem-stitched

pillow-covers (square

or oblong) ....

6duchesse toilet covers

8 pair strong cotton sheets,

for servants, 2 by 31

yards

12 strong linen pillow-

covers, for servants .

2 dozen extra strong hem-

stitched huckaback

towels

2 dozen fine hem-stitched

huckaback towels .

2 dozen fine soft diaper

bedroom towels, for

ladies' use ....

105

0 1

£ 8.

5 5

13 10

3 0

3 3

2 2

2 5

1 6

1 10

17 5

16 16

8 5

1 10

4 4

1 4

2 2

2 10

Eatimate No. 4 - continued.

2 dozen linen huckaback

towels, for servants

1 dozen medium -size white

Turkish bath towels .

i dozen large -size wliite

Tvirkish bath towels .

0 brown Turkish bath

towels

6 large white Turkish bath

sheets

1 dozen Turkish towels, for

servants

2 dozen glass cloths . . .

2 dozen tea or china cloths

(pantry)

1 dozen linen dusters

(strong and fine)

1 dozen linen dusters

(strong and fine), . .

1 dozen soft polishing cloths

or dusters ....

1 dozen housemaids' clotlis

(basin)

2 dozen kitchen and scullery

cloths, 1 yard square .

1 dozenkitchencliinacloths,

1 yard square . . .

1 dozen linen roller towels .

I dozen pudding cloths

1 dozen knife cloths .

2 hearth-rug covers . . .

4 butlers' aprons ....

3 pair large double -

bed superior Witney

blankets

3 under blankets ....

4 pair single-bed superior

Witney blankets . .

4 under blankets . . .

4 pair strong blankets, for

servants

4 under blankets ....

4 fine white toilet quilts, for

double beds . . . .,

6 fine wliito toilet quilts, for

single beds ....

5 coloured or white quilts,

for servants ....

6 toilet covers, for servants

a. d.

14 0

30 0

42 0

2 6

7 6

12 6

8 6

10 0

5 6

8 0

4 6

8 6

10 6

10 0

30 0

6 6

10 0

1 10 0

3 3

£177

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

The proper wasliing and " getting up " of linen is an art which remains practically unsolved by

the average housewife, who, when she is obHged to do even the simplest laundry work at home, is

content to get through her task in a most rough-and-ready fashion.

" What is worth doing at all is worth doing well " is a maxim which might be followed with ad-

vantage by the home laundress, who should make a point of acquiring a real practical knowledge

of her work. The information contamed in this chapter has been compiled as a result of many years'

practical experience of laundry work in all its branches, and the amateur laundress should derive

much help from a careful study of these pages.

Home- Washing. - Whether the washing should

be done at home or not is a question which every

housekeeper must decide for herself. There is

a great diversity of opinion on the subject, and

much to be said on both sides.

Given the necessary accommodation, a wash-

house fitted with tubs, a plentiful supply of hot

water, a good drying -green and convenient room

for ironing, there is no doubt that home washing

is more satisfactory and more economical than

having the work sent out. It is more economical,

not only from the money point of view, but in

the wear and tear of the clothes the saving is

unquestionable. Besides, there is the pleasure of

wearing and using lineu which we know has been

washed and rinsed in clean water, and that has

not come in contact with all and sundry garments.

There is also the feehng that one can be a little

more lavish with the supply when it is not neces-

sary to reckon up the cost for the washing of

each separate article. This is a very important

point, when we consider that cleanliness in our

garments and surroundings is one of the first

laws of health, and a law which it would bo

false economy to break.

On the other hand, a housekeeper must con-

sider whether there is the adequate convenience

for doing such a large piece of work as the family

wasliing, and also if there is sufficient help

available for the labour to be undertaken satis-

factorily.

In many houses, especially town houses, where

space is valuable it would be impossible to carry *

out the work successfully, and certainly not

without a great deal of discomfort. There are

other economies to consider besides the saving

of money ; there is the economy of time, the

economy of labour, and the economy of patience

and temper as well.

The probable discomfort of a washing day

deters many people from entertaining the idea

of doing their washing a*- home, and it certainly

271

requires some planning and knowledge of the

necessary details to have the extra work going

on, and to keep the wheels of the house running

smoothly at the same time. If, however, the

work is to be done at the expense of every one's

comfort, then by all means leave it alone ; any

advantages to be gained would be dearly bought

at such a price.

Now that public laundries are springing up

all around us, and their methods for treating

the clothes are improving year by year, there

is no longer the absolute necessity for home

washing.

Sometimes, although it is found impossible to

do the whole washing at home, a part can be

done quite easily, the heavier and more compli-

cated articles being sent out. There is always

more difficulty in undertaking the dressing of

starched hnen, especially such things as gentle-

men's shirts, collars and cuffs, white petticoats,

dresses, &c., and heavy articles Uke sheets and

table-cloths. If these are sent away to be done,

perhaps the rest will cause no difficulty.

If the decision is in favour of home washing,

then it is very important that the process be

planned with care, and then carried out methodi-

cally.

A REGULAR TIME FOR WASHING

In arranging your washing-day, of course take

into consideration the circtmistances of the

household, but have it as early in the week as

possible, and at a fixed hour. As a general rule

Tuesday is the most suitable day, as tlvis lets you

have all necessary preparations made on Jlonday.

Never let soiled clothes remain unwashed longer

than a fortnight, and you must judge from the

amount of work to be done if a weekly weishing

is advisable. Begin operations early in the

day, as clothes dried in the morning air are

always whitest and freshest.

272

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

LAUNDRY UTENSILS, THEIR CHOICE

AND CARE

As all the uton&ils used in laundry work are

subjected to a considerable amount of weeir and

tear, it ia of the utmost importance to have them

good and durable. A little additional outlay at

the commencement in order to obtain first-class

articles will be money well spent, the replacing of

faulty goods will not be necessary, and much

needless worry will bo saved.

At its best laundry work is a somewhat arduous

occupation, and although it is possible to pro-

duce excellent results with the most primitive

implements, this requires the skilled worker.

Under ordinary circumstances, in order to have

the work well done and time and labour econo-

mised, the necessary implements must be

provided.

The number of utensils required will depend

very much upon individual circumstances.

A large household with good laundry accommo-

dation, and all the washing done at home, will

naturally require more than a small household

where the work has to be done in a kitchen and

scullery, and perhaps only part of the washing

undertaken. In the latter case the number of

utensils should be reduced to a minimum through

lack of space to accommodate them. Where-

ever possible, laundry utensils should be kept

apeirt from those used for cooking purposes.

In aU cases it is better to buy just what is

absolutely necessary to begin with, and to add

as the need arises.

The follo\ving utensils will be required to do a

complete wgishing conveniently : -

Tubs. - ^Two or three fitted tubs with hot and

cold water, and one or two smaller movable tubs

or rinc baths for small articles, are the most con-

venient for washing purposes. If fitted tubs are

not provided, then leu-ger zinc or wooden tubs

■wi\l be necessary, and a stand or bench to place

them on. It is very impor-

tant to have the tub placed

at the right height for the

worker. All tubs must bo

kept very clean, and dirty

soapy water must on no

account be allowed to re-

main in them. They must

bo well scrubbed out after

use to remove any dirty

scum that may have col-

lected on the sides. Then

zinc or porcelain ones may

be dried, but wooden ones

should have a little cold

water left in them to pre-

vent them shrinking.

Washing-Board and Brush.

"vJJ

Washing-Board.

- Both these will be found of great assistance.

The board is useful in the washing of heavy

articlee,such as sheets, table-cloths, counterpanes.

&c., and anything strong and dirty that will stand

a fair amount of rubbing. A wooden board is pre-

ferable to one made of zinc. It should be well

washed on both sides after use, and set up on end

to dry. A brush with good bristles and not too

hard is also useful in the washing of collars,

cufJs, bands, or any very soiled parts which

require extra attention. The brush should be

well rinsed and set up to drj' after use, and never

■used for any other purpose.

A Boiler. - Tliis is generally a fitted arrange-

ment with a small fireplace underneath. It

must be kept very clean, and well washed and

dried after use. If a greasy scum collects on the

sides, a mixture of soft soap and sliredded

Brooke's soap should be applied with a wet

flannel, or a Uttle paraffin may be added to this

mixtiu-e if something stronger is required.

Clean cold water must always be put into the

boiler before the fire is hghted, and the fire

should be out before the boiler is emptied.

Cinders from other fires do very weU for burning

in a boiler fire, or coke is very often substituted

for coal. If no fitted boiler is provided, a large

saucepan can be used and boiled on an ordinary

fire or gas stove. A tin or enamelled one is best,

and, if possible, it should be kept for laundry

purposes only.

Mangle and Wringer. - ^A mangle is a large

machine, with heavy wooden rollers used for

smoothing hovisehold linen and the hea\'ier

articles of clothing. When in use the tension

must be tight enough to press the clothes

sufficiently, and loosened again when finished

with. The rollers must be kept very clean and

free from dust, and the working parts should

be oiled occasionally. A wringer is a most use-

ful machine and almost indispensable if any

heavy washing is to be done. It is generally

attached to a washing-tub, and the clothes are

put through it while wet. The roUers are of

india-rubber, and should be kept clean with

soap and water, or if stained with any dyed

material a Uttle turpentine should be anphed

with a soft rag. As vnih. the mangle, the tension

must be tightened when in use and afterwards

loosened. Nothing that is boiUng hot should

be passed through the wringer or the surface of

the india-rubber will become roughened. With

care the india-rubber ought to last a long time,

and when it does wear out, the coating can be

replaced and the wringer made as good as new.

For small washings the wringer can almost take

the place of the heavier and larger mangle.

Washing Machines. - Various machines are

now made for home washing, and where there is

a large number of things to be done they are

certainly a great aid. A good machine carefully

used will really wear the clothes less than the

ordinary washing and rubbing in a tub. One /

of simple construction should be chosen, and the I

directions, which vary slightly with the different j

machines, will be given with each. Very often i

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

273

a wringer or small mangle is attached to the

machine, and in this case the extra machinery

would be unnecessary.

The " Sunrise " Patent Washing Machine can

be thoroughly recommended. It is very simple

•' Sunrise " Washing Machine.

in construction, absolutely efficient, and occupies

very little space. The price too is only 35s., or

with a rubber roller attached, 25s. extra.

Clothes-Ropes, Pins and Poles. - These are used

when drying is done out of doors, and it is most

important that they should be kept perfectly

clean. Clothes are frequently seen with the

mark of a dirty pin or rope upon them, and this

happens through carelessness. The clothes-

ropes should never be left outside when not in

use. They not only get dirty, but will rot if

exposed to the atmosphere. They should be

rubbed over with a cloth, rolled up and put into

a bag or basket where tnoy will be under cover.

The same care must be taken with the pins

which fasten the clothes to the line. Do not

let them lie on the ground, but see that they are

quite clean, and put them away with the ropes.

New clothes -ropes and pins should be soaked

first in hot and then in cold water before use, as

they are liable to mark the clothes. Clothes-

poles, which are used for propping up the ropes,

must be brought indoors when not in use, and

kept in a clean place.

Clothes-Horse and Pulley. - These are necessary

for drying and airing indoors. The horse, which

is like a screen with bars, is placed round or near

a fire, and the pulley is generally fixed to the roof

of the kitchen or laundry, and can be pulled up

and down as required.

The Ironing Table. - This must be of a good

size, strong, and steady, and of a convenient

height for working at. It should be covered

first with felt or a double fold of thick blanket.

The kind known as " charity " blankets, of a

grey colour and rather a hard make, are very

suitable for the purpose. The blanket should

be l^arge enough to come at least a few inches

ove^ the table all round. A clean sheet will

thori be reqviired to place on the top of this,

which should either be pinned at the four corners

or fastened to the table legs by means of tapes.

Patches and seams should be avoided as far as

possible, or put where they will not come in the

way of the ironing. The heat of the iron must

never be tested on the ironing sheet, as if once

scorched it is almost sure to wear into holes

when washed.

Never lay ironing blankets and sheets away

damp, or they will probably mildew ; and never

let them remain on the table longer than is

necessary, as they get dusty. Shake them well,

and fold evenly before laying away.

In addition to the ironing table, a smaller one

for placing the work on will be found a great

convenience if space permits.

Irons. - Those most generally used are called

flat irons, and for all ordinary purposes they

produce as good work as any other. They

should be of different sizes and have comfortable

handles. Numbers 3, 6, and 7 are useful sizes,

and two, or better three, will be required for each

worker. If any fine intricate work is to be done,

one or two very small irons will be necessary.

Flat irons are best heated on an ironing stove

or on the top of a close range.

Ironing stoves can be had in

different sizes, they take up

very little room, and where

there is a large amount of work

to be done, and consequently

many irons to be heated, a

proper stove will be found more

economical than keeping up a large kitchen fire

for the sole purpose of heating irons. If a

cooking stove is used for heating, the fire must

be well made up, the hearth swept, and the top

of the range wiped free from grease before the

irons are put down. It is not such a good plan

to heat irons in front of an open fire, as their

surfaces are liable to get roughened and smoky.

If it must be done, have the fire bright and free

from smoke before placing the irons, and when

fresh coal has to be added let it be put at the

back of the fire, drawing forward the red cinders.

A smoked iron is fatal to good ironing. Never

put irons into a fire to heat or the surface will be

roughened and the iron rmned for any fine work.

Gas stoves are very convenient for heating one

or two irons, but where a number are required it

will be found an expensive method.

An iron must be well cleaned each time before

using. Have a wooden box, and put at the foot

of it some sand-paper, or ordinary thick brown

paper with fine sand or bath-brick dust sprinkled

on it. Rub the iron well on this first, and the

slight roughness of the sand, &c., will clean it.

Then have a piece of coarse cloth or sacking

with a little grease on it. A piece of bees" -wax

or candle-end slired down and put between the

folds of the cloth will do. Rvib the iron next

on this to make it run smoothly, then finish off

by dusting it with a duster to make it quite free

from sand or brick-dust. Occasionally it is well

Flat Iron.

274

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

to wash the irons thorouglily with hot water,

soda, soap, and a brusli, and then thoroughly

dry. On no account must irons be black-leaded.

Never allow them to cool flat on a stove when the

fire is going out, as damp collects and rusts them,

but either stand them up on end at the side of

the stove or on the hearth-stone. Irons must

bs kept in a perfectly dry place. If you once

allow them to get rusty, the rust eats into them,

and their surface is never so smooth again. If

they are to be laid away for some time, see that

they are thoroughly dry, then grease them well,

and wrap them in brown paper.

It is almost impossible to iron with perfectly

new irons ; they must bo seasoned first. To do

tliis heat them on a stove for several hours, then

clean in the ordinary way, and let them cool.

Repeat this process for several days, and the

irons will be ready for use.

A very good invention is the new patent

" Slip-On " Ironing Shield, wliich can be put

on to any flat iron. No.

4 to 7, after it has

been well heated. This

saves the trouble of so

much cleaning, and the

nickel-plated surface of

the shield will iron the

clothes without a mark,

and produce a high

gloss on the linen. The price is Is.

Various special irons can now bo had to replace

the flat iron, such as box irons. These, as

their name implies, are like a 1 ox, and are heated

by means of a hot bolt placed inside. Charcoal or

Dalli irons, which are heated with hot charcoal

inside the iron. Gas irons, heated with gas, by

means of an india-rubber tube attached to a gas

jet. Asbestos irons, electric irons - heated by

electricity, and also the spirit iron, which is

heated with methylated spirits, and is most

useful where no fire is obtainable, or for a lady's

private use, and for travelling.

Polishing and Goffering Irons. - The polishing

iron is like an ordinary iron with an oval surface

of polished steel. It is used for polishing cuffs

and collars or anything that requires a high

gloss. Goffering irons are used for goffering

Iron Shield.

Polishing Iron.

Goffering Iron.

fnlls, and it is well to have them in different

sizes if both wide and narrow frills are to bo

done. They should be heated in a gas jot, with

methylated spirits, or be placed under a flat

iron on an ordinary stove. They must never be

put into a firo.

Jron-Stand and Holder. - Each ironer must be

provided with an iron-stand, on wliich to rest the

iron, and an iron-holder. Iron-stands are of

different kinds, the simplest being a plain ring of

iron, and others are of more elaborate design ;

but in any case they should stand liigh enough

above the table to prevent the heat of the iron

from scorching the ironing-sheet.

Sleeve Board.

Iron-holders should be made hke kettle-

holders, only more substantial. They should

have several thick folds of flannel or two of felt

inside, sewn together, and covered over with a

clean cotton cover. A piece of kid put between

the folds will help to keep the heat from the

hands. The top cover must be strong. A piece

of strong linen or ticking is suitable, but it must

not be anything from which a dye will come off.

For collars, cuffs, and shirts it is better to have

the holder covered with white cotton. The

holders must be made long enough to cover the

length of the handle, and broad enough to come

well round. When resting the iron, always

take the holder off it. This not only keeps it

cooler for the hand, but very often prevents it

getting burnt when the iron is too hot to use.

Iron-holders should be kept in a box or drawer

where they will not get dusty.

Special irons which are provided with wooden

handles will not require a holder.

.Skirt Board.

Shirt, Skirt, and Sleeve Boards. - These are all

required in fitting out a laundry. The skirl

board is used when ironing the fronts of shirts.

One side at least must bo covered with a double

fold of white flannel, blanket, or felt stretched

tightly over it, and either sewn or tacked ou.

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

275

Above this place a cotton or linen cover, which

can be made like a slip, to be easily removed

when dirty and replaced by a clean one.

Sleeve boards, used when ironing the sleeves

of dresses, &c., must be covered in the same way.

Keep both shirt and sleeve boards covered up

when not in use, to prevent their becoming

soiled.

Skirt boards are used when ironing petticoats,

di'ess sldrts, childi-en's frocks, &c. These being

larger will do quite well if covered with grey

blanket Uke the tables, only it should be tacked

on, and then covered with a small sheet pinned

firmly underneath. It is better to have a sheet

that can be taken off after use, as it will keep

cleaner.

Polishing Boards are Uke skirt boards, only

they are left uncovered. They are used for

polishing collars and cuffs.

Basins. - Tin enamelled basins are the most

satisfactory for laundiy purposes, and it will be

found useful to have several and of different

sizes. These serve for the making of starch,

for holding water when sprinkling the clothes,

and for the soaking and even wasliing of small

articles, such as lace, handkerchiefs, &c.

Bags. - One or two bags for boiling clothes

in ^vill be found useful. They can be made of

strong net or of cotton with a sht in the side

to allow the water to enter, otherwise they will

blow up like a balloon and float on the surface

of the water.

Sundries. - A soap dish, a small enamelled

saucepan and knife for making soap jeUy, a

wooden fork or stick for lifting clothes from the

boiler, a clothes-baskt u, a can for water, a

steel comb and small brush for fringes, one or

two tea-spoons, one wooden spoon, one gill

measure, tliree or four towels, and some soft rag

for rubbers, one or two pieces of white felt for

the ii-oning of lace and embroidery, and three

or four jars for keeping stores will complete the

oufit of a laundry, and the following will give an

idea of the approximate cost.

PRICE LIST OF LAUNDRY UTENSILS

Flat irons, from 8d. to 2s. according to side.

Box iron with pair of heaters, 23. to 3s. each,

Dalli iron (charcoal), 6s. each.

Spirit-heated ladies' iron, 6s. or 7s. each.

Gas iron, 3s. 9d. to 6s. each.

Polishing iron. Is. 6d. to 2s. each.

Electric iron, from 17s.

Tubs - wooden with galvanised hoops, 2s. to

6s. according to size.

Tubs - galvanised zinc. Is. 6d to 3s according

to size.

Shirt board, 3s. to 5s.

Skirt board, 4s. 6d. to 6s.

Sleeve board, Is. 6d. to 4s.

Washing board. Is. 3d.

Large tin boil-.''', 3s. 6d.

Tin enamelled basins. Is. 2d. to 2s.

Mangle, from £2.

Wringer, from 18s.

Washing machine, various prices according to

make.

Clothes -ropes, 16 yards for Is.

Clothes-poles or props, 8d. to Is.

Clothes-horse, 3s. 6d. to 6s.

Goffering irons, 8d. to lid. per pair.

Iron-stand, 4d. to 6d.

Soap-dish, 4d. to 8d.

Clothes-basket, Is. 6d. to 3s.

Can for water, 2s. 6d. to 3s.

Steel comb, 4d.

White felt, about Is. 2d. per yard, double

width.

Laundry blankets (grey charity), 4s. or 5s.

Laimdry sheeting, about Is. 3d. per yard.

MATERIALS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE

Water. - For washing pm-poses it is necessary

to have an abundant supply of pure and soft

water. Cleaning is almost an impossibiUty when

the water is of an earthy colour, and contains

a quantity of mineral matter. Rain water, when

it can be obtained free from impurities, is pre-

ferable to river or spring water, which is gene-

rally hardened by a certain amount of lime

acquired in running through the ground. There

are many chemical tests by wliich one can teU

soft water from hard water, but for laundry

purposes it is sufficient to know that the harder

the water the greater is the quantity of soap

needed to produce a lather. When hard water

must unavoidably be used for washing, some

softening substance, such as soda or borax, must

be added.

Soap. - Good yellow soap is best. Cheap soaps

are no economy, as they contain a large per-

centage of water and waste quickly. Many of

them also contain soda to an extent hurtful to

the clothes. Soap must never be allowed to he

in the water, and all ends, wliich are too small

for washing with, should be saved to make soap

jelly, or else shred down and put into the boiler

when boiling the clothes.

Soda. - This has a softening effect upon water,

and absorbs and removes grease, but if used

in too large quantities it will be found destruc-

tive to clothes, and will give them a grey

appearance. It will also make the hands rough

and sore. Before soda is used it must be

completely dissolved in boiling or very hot

water, for were it to touch the hnen undissolved,

yellow marks would be left, in reality burns,

and these would eventually wear into holes.

Soda must not be used for coloured clothes nor

for flannels, and for fine articles borax will be

found safer as a water-softener. Wlien wasliing

and boiling the coarser clothes, one ounce of

soda wall be sufficient to soften one gallon of

water.

276

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Borax. - This also softens water, but not so

powerfully as soda, and as it is perfectly harmless

it may be used even for wooUen and dyed articles.

Boron, a substance found in borax, acts as a

disinfectant. Allow one table -spoonful of pre-

pared borax to one gallon of water. Borax is

also used for stiffening and glossing linen, such

as coUars and cuffs. It may bo bought either

as a powder or in lump form ; the former is the

more convenient of the two.

Blue. - Tliis is added to the water in which

white clothes are rinsed to give them a good

colour. Tliere are a nvunber of different blues

both in soUd and Uquid form- indigo, ultra-

marine, Prussian, and anihne ; but the soUd

blues will, as a rule, be found handier, and the

required quantity will be more easily judged.

Having chosen the brand, keep to it, and then the

question of quantity will be no difficulty. Blue

which dissolves most readily and leaves least

sediment after the water has stood some time

is the best. Stone or soUd blues should be

firm and not gritty, and they ought to be kept

in a dry place, as they readily absorb moisture.

\Vhen a cake is required it should have the

paper removed and be tied in a small bag or piece

of flannel, when it will be ready to squeeze into

the water. (See p. 278.)

Starch. - ^The stiffening and other qualities of

starch vary according to the substance from

which it is derived, so that it is a matter of great

importance to choose a good kind.

Wheat and rice starches are those most

commonly vised. Rice starch is used as a

substitute for wheat starch for all finer pur-

poses.

Ammonia. - This is also used for the softening

of water and will be found invaluable in the

washing of flannel and knitted articles. It dis-

solves the grease and dirt in a wonderful way, and

thus saves unnecessary rubbing. It must not,

however, be used too freely, or it will impoverish

the woolly fibre. Ammonia should be kept in a

tightly corked bottle, as it is very volatile.

Turpentine. - Used in the making of cold-

water starch, and also for the removal of certain

stains. It should be kept in a tightly corked

bottle.

Bees' -wax and White Wax. - The former is use-

ful for the greasing of irons when candle-ends

are not available, and the latter is sometimes

put into hot-water starch.

Salts of Lemon- Salts of Sorrel.- These are

useful for the removal of cortain stains. As

they are poisonous substances they ought to be

labelled so, and kept in a safe place.

Chloride of Lime. - This is used for bleaching

pvirposes, and also for the removal of very

obstinate stains. It must be specially pre-

pared. (See p. 277.)

Gum-Arabic. - This will take the place of

starch in the stiffening of laco and silk.

Common Salt and Vinegar.- These are some-

times required for the rinsing of coloured

articles.

Methylated Spirits. - Tliis is used in small

quantities in the washing of silks.

PREPARATION FOR A WASHING

Sorting. - Without order and method much

time will be wasted. After having collected all

the clothes to be washed, arrange them in

different lota according to the kind of article and

the tubs available for steeping.

1. Table linen.

2. Bed and other household linen.

3. Body linen.

4. Laces, muslins, and finer articles.

5. Flannels and other woollen or knitted goods.

6. Pocket-handkerchiefs.

7. Coloured prints, muslins, and sateens.

8. Kitchen towels and very dirty articles.

When there is a scarcity of tubs one may be

used for bed and body linen.

Pocket-handkerchiefs should always be kept

apart from other articles until after the first

washing.

As table linen might be discoloured by contact

with greasy clothes, keep it also separate until

after washing.

Mending. - Before washing, all holes or tears

must at least be drawn together if not actually

mended, as the friction of washing would tend

to enlarge them.

All strings should be untied and undrawn, and

any buttons unfastened.

Removal of Stains.- This is generally looked

upon as very troublesome, but it will be found

that the results fully repay the time and labour

involved, indeed, it is absolutely necessary for

the production of good work. The sooner

stains are removed the better. Most stains can

be easily eradicated when fresh, while they

harden if allowed to remain. As soap com-

bined with hot water makes most stains per-

manent, the removing process must take place

before the actual washing begins. Different

chemicals are employed for this, all more or less

injurious to the fabric, so that after the appli-

cation of any of them, the article must be

immediately rinsed in clean warm water.

Rust or Iron-Mould. - Take a small basin of

boiling water, dip the stained part into it, and

then stretch tightly over the basin. Sprinkle

with salts of sorrel, and rub it well into the

stain ; use a piece of rag or smooth stick to do

this, as salts of sorrel is most poisonous and

might bo injurious to the fingers. Allow it to

steam for a short time with the salts on it, when

the stain should entirely disappear.

A solution of oxalic acid may be used in the

same way. Rinse at once.

Ink. - When ink stains are fresh they may be

removed by dipping the stained part in hot

milk and letting them soak for some time, then

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

277

wash out thoroughly. If the stain has been

in for some time it will be more persistent, and

the same method as for rust stains shoxild be

adopted. A black ink stain can also be removed

by pouring some red ink over it, allowing it to dry,

and then washing it out.

Wine and Fruit. - Spread the stained part over

a basin, rub well with common salt, and pour

boiling water through to avoid spreading the

mark. If the stain is still persistent, try salts

of sorrel.

If a fruit stain is left in for any length of time,

it is most difficult to remove. It is sometimes

better to let it wear out gradually ; but if it

must be removed, use oxahc acid weU rubbed

into the part or chloride of lime.

Tea and Coffee. - Spread the stained part over

a basin, rub well with powdered borax, and

pour boiling water through. If still persistent,

use a weat solution of chloride of Ume.

Paint.- - When fresh, remove with tiu-pentine

well rubbed in. If it has become dry, mix a little

ammonia with the turpentine. When the stain

is on a fabric of wliich the coloixr is apt to be

destroyed, moisten first with a little oil, and

then remove w^th tvirpentine or ether.

Mildew. - This is a species of fungus of which

there are several varieties. It often attacks and

stains Unen or cotton, and is caused by the

material being laid away damp. It is one of the

most obstinate stains to remove, and often im-

possible without injury to the fabric. Stretch

the stained part over a hard firm surface, and

rub off as much as will come with a piece of soft

dry rag. Rub in a Utt)*^ salt, and try if the juice

of a lemon will take it out. Failing this, make a

paste of French chalk and water, spread it on the

stained part, and let it dry slowly, if possible in

the sun. Repeat the process if necessary, and

then rinse well.

Use of Chloride of Lime and Sanitas. - Put J lb.

chloride of lime into a basin, and break it to a

smooth paste with a Uttle cold water, then add as

much cold water as will fill a quart bottle, about

1| pints ; stir the lime well up, and let it stand

covered over for a day or two, stirring it occasion-

ally. Tlien lot it settle ; skim it well, and pour

the clear liquid off the top. Strain this into a

quart bottle, and keep it tightly corked.

To remove stains wet a rag with this solution

and apply it to the part. V/hen anything is very

much stained all over, it is best to soak it in cold

water with some of this preparation of chloride of

lime added to it. Make the water smell just

slightly with the lime. This will also serve for

bleaching things when they have become a

bad coloux.

Sanitas is now frequently used for removing

ink, fruit, and wine stains on white cotton goods.

When removing stains the simplest method

should always be tried first before any of the

stronger chemicals are resorted to.

Care of the Chemicals. - Most of the chemicals

used for removing stains are poisonous, therefore

they ought to be labelled as such and kept in a

safe place.

Soaking. - Soak everything except flannels,

wooUen goods, and most coloiu-ed articles. Place

each assortment in a tub, using large basins if

more convenient for the smaller things, and

cover all with cold or tepid water. Never use

hot water for soaking purposes, as it tends to

make dirt adhere to Unen, whilst cold or tepid

water loosens it, and so simpUfies the process

of washing. If the water is hard, either borax

or soda may be added before the clothes are

put in. For the coarser and dirtier things use

soda in the proportion of one ounce of soda to

a gallon of water. This must be previously

dissolved in a little boiling water. (See p. 275.)

For the finer articles use borax instead of soda

in the proportion of one table-spoonful to one

gallon of water. It is perfectly harmless, even

colours not being affected by its use, but it heis

a marvellous power of softening water and of

drawing out dirt. A little soap may be rubbed

on the more soiled part of the clothes, or some

melted soap added to the water.

Very dusty articles, such as window-bhnds

and curtains, should be soaked in plain cold

water until some of the dust is got rid of, and

the water should be changed several times.

Pocket-handkerchiefs should have a handfxil

of salt added to the water in which they soak ; it

wiU make the washing of them easier.

Let the clothes soak for one night at least.

If Monday is yoiu- wasliing day, they may be

soaked from Saturday without harm.

Disinfecting. - This is not always necessarj',

but where there has been infectious illness, or

even bad colds, it will be wise to put the infected

clothing through some process which will destroy

the disease germs. There are various methods

of disinfecting, such as the use of soaking fluids,

exposure to hot air,exposm'e to steam, and others,

but for home purposes there is nothing safer

nor more effective than Izol. It is non-

poisonous, and is undoubtedly very powerful

as a germ destroyer. Use it in the proportion

of 2 ounces of Izol to 1 gallon of water. In tliis

solution the clothes should be allowed to soak

for at least twelve hours. After this the clothes

may be treated in the ordinary way.

Sundry Preliminaries. - The boiler fire should

be laid the night before the washing day, and tlio

boiler itself dusted out and filled with clean cold

water. It will then be ready for hghting tho

first thing in the morning. Cold-water starch,

as it requires soaking, and soap jelly should also

be prepared beforehand. (See pp. 281 and 287.)

It should also be seen that all utensils are clean

and ready for use the following day, and that

all necessary materials are at hand. Eeirly in

the morning the fire should be hghted, and as

soon as there is hot water the washing com-

menced.

278

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

THE WASHING OF LINEN AND

WHITE CLOTHES

The linen liaving boon soaked and all stains

removed as far as possible, it is now ready for

washing. The object in washing is to got rid

of the dirt with as little wear and tear to the

clothes as possible, and to keep them a good

colour. This may be done either by hand or by

machine, but whichever method is adopted the

principles are the same, and it is as well to know

liow to wash by hand. Cominence with the

finest and cleanest articles, generally table linen,

then proceed to the bed and body linen.

Fine towels and sheets must be washed before

the ordinary household linen, and all coarse and

kitchen articles left to the last. First rub the

clothes and wring them out of the steeping

water. Rinse out the tub and half fill it with

water as hot as the hand can bear, adding, if

necessary, a little borax or ammonia to soften it,

or soda when it is to be used for the coarser

clothes. Do not put too many articles into the

tub at one time, and press them well down under

the water. Then soap as much of the article as

can conveniently be rubbed, and wash one part of

the material against the other, and not against

the w-rist or hand. The pressure of rubbing

should come on the lower and fleshy part of the

thumb. Work methodically over every part,

pajdng particular attention to those that are

most soiled, and dip the article from time to

time into the water so as to get rid of the soap

and the dirt. A washing-board, preferably a

wooden one, will be found of great assistance in

the washing of the heavier and coarser things,

and such articles as collars and cuffs will be

cleaned most easily by being brushed on the

washing -board with a softish brush. The brush

is also valuable for the washing of very soiled

articles, such as kitchen towels and aprons.

Large articles, such as sheets and table-cloths,

should be folded for washing and then rubbed

by the selvedge from end to end until the middle

is reached, when it will be advisable to turn and

begin at the other end. If the clothes are not

clean after the first washing, take fresh hot

water and repeat the process. Soap and rub

in the same way in the second water a.s in the

first, turning any article that is tiu-nablo on to

the wrong side.

If the washing is to bo done by a machine, it

will be bettor to follow the directions given

with each special make, as they vary somewhat

in structure. Most of them are simple enough,

and will be found invaluable in houses where a

large washing has to be undertaken.

The above directions only apply to the

washing of ordinary white clothes ; special

articles, such as muslins, lace, coloured articles,

&c., will be treated under special headings.

Boiling. - The clothes should he well wrung out

of the water in which they have been washed

and left twisted, aa this will prevent their floating

in the boiler. Soap should then be rubbed on

them, or added to the water in the boiler in the

proportion of one pound of soap to four gallons

of water. A little soda, borax, or ammonia

may also he added if the water is hard and

the clothes a bad colour. Tie together or put

into bags all small articles, such as cuffs, collare

and pocket-handkerchiefs ; in fact, a carefiil

laundress will put everything into bags ; this

prevents any soapy scum from settling on t)ie

clothes, and avoids the necessity of lifting each

article separately from the boiler.

As the clothes must have sufficient room to

toss about, do not put too many things into the

boiler at one time. Bring the water slowly to

the boil, and boil from fifteen to twenty minutes,

pressing the tilings down occasionally with a

stick to keep them under water. Do not allow

the clothes to boil too long, or they will becoine

a yellow colour, and they must on no account

bo boiled before washing. Wlien the clothes

have boiled sufficiently, hft them out into a tub,

and, if time permits, cover them with the water

in which they have been boiled, letting them

cool in it. This whitens the clothes, and is

almost as good as bleaching, but it cannot of

course be done where washing and drying have

to be accomplished in one day.

The water in the copper must never be

allowed to become dirty, and more water and

more soap must be added for each lot of clothes.

Bleaching. - When the clothes become a very

bad colour, bleacMng will very much improve

them. Take the clothes from the boiler, let

them cool slightly, and, with the soap still in them,

spread them on a green for some hours, sprinkling

them with water from a watering-can if they

become dry. If the clothes are spread out

boiling hot, they will scorch and discolour the

grass.

Rinsing. - This is one of the most importar.L

operations in laundry w^ork. The reason of

clothes having a streaked appearance and bad

colour is very often that the soap has not been

rinsed out of them. Ironing reveals the faulty

work, making unrinsed clothes look absolutely

dirty and giving them an unpleasant smell. Use

plenty of water for rinsing - first tepid, then cold.

To use cold water to begin with would be to

harden the soap into the tissues of the material,

so that to remove it would be almost impossible.

First remove the soap with tepid water, and then

use a plentiful supply of cold until every trace

of it is removed. Too much stress cannot be

laid upon this point.

Blueing. - This improves the appearance of

the clothes by bringing back some of the clear

colour which they lose through wear and age,

and counteracting the slightlj' yellow tinge they

acquire in boiling. In preparing blue water see

that the tub in which the water is placed is

perfectly clean and free from dust and soap suds.

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

279

and add sufficient bluo to make it a sky-blue tint.

It is impossible to lay down absolute rules as to

quantity, as it depends both upon the kind of

blue used and the textiu-e of the articles under-

going operation. As a rule, body linen requires

more blue than other articles, and table Unen

less. If there is any uncertainty as to the

right shade, the water should be tested first on

some small article or piece of rag. The aim must

be to get the clothes of a clear uniform tint

and not too blue. Do not prepare the blue

water long before it is wanted, as a sediment

will fall, and stir it well before immersing the

clothes.

Wring the clothes out of the last rinsing water,

open them out, and put a few at a time into the

blue water, those requiring most blue first.

Work them so as to let the water well tlirough,

then wring out as dry as possible. The solution

will got weaker as it is used, so that more blue

must be added when required, and tliis always

when there are no clothes in the water.

Wringing. - Wringing is getting rid of the

superfluous water in the clothes. This you may

do either by hand or maclaine, but certain pre-

cautions are necessary, or the process will be

destructive. In wringing by hand, twist the

articles selvedge-wise, and be careful not to

wrench them unduly, but to wring with a

sustained pressure. The use of a macliine

causes less wear and tear and also saves time.

Shake out the clothes and fold them evenly

before putting them through the wringer, then

work the machine slowly and carefully. If

worked hurriedly the moisture will not be

properly extracted. I'ass the clothes tlirough

the machine once or t^;^-ice that they may be

wrung as dry as possible. Do not screw the

wringer too tight ; it both spoils the macliine

and is too great a strain on the linen. Hide

away buttons in the folds of the fabric in order

to protect them as well as the rollers ; tapes

should also be concealed, to prevent their being

wrenched off.

After wringing, the clothes must be sorted,

those requiring starching put to one side, and

the others hung up to dry.

Drying. - Clothes are always fresher and

whiter if they can be dried in the open air,

morning air being best of all. But in towns

this is not always possible, owing to the presence

of smoke and other obstacles, and the absence of

space. Still a fine bright day with a little wind

blowing, a good green, and clean lines and pegs

are luxuries for any laundress who has the

success of her work at heart. Tlie clothes-line

must first be rubbed over with a clean duster,

and the clothes pinned or pegged on to it with

the wrong side out, if tliei'e is one. The direction

of the wind should be considered, and the clothes

hung so as to catch the breeze. Hang the

articles well over the line to prevent straining,

and so that they may rot slip off and get soiled

on the ground. Do not hang sheets and table-

cloths by the corners, or they will be apt to

tear. Neither should they be hung next the

post nor near a wall or tree ; a towel or something

small can be put in these spaces. Nightdresses,

sliirts, and the Uke should be hung up by the

bottom or by the shoulders. If by the former,

only one side should be fastened to the line,

and the other side left open to face the wind,

which will blow tlirough and freshen every part.

Small articles, such as collars and cuffs, may

be strung together on a piece of tape, and

if there is any chance of smuts faUing, it is a

good plan to cover them with a piece of muslin

or cambric. On no account must anything be

fastened up by the tapes, as this is most Uable

to strain and injure the garment. Raise the

rope well above the ground by means of a prop

or pole, and allow the clothes to remain until

sufficiently dry. When clothes are dried indoors

they must either be hung on a clothes-horse

near a fire, on pvdleys swung to the ceiMng in a

heated atmosphere, or in steam closets fitted up

for the purpose. If the drying is done before a

fire, the clothes will require turning or moving

from time to time, as the heat is not regular.

Care must be taken not to place them too near

the fire, as the Hnen will not only become dis-

coloured by too close contact with the heat,

but become so dry as to burst into a flame.

Damping and Folding. - Anything that has to

be manglod or ironed must be damped and

folded evenly first. It is a sa\dng of time and

trouble if these things can be taken down from

drying while still slightly wet, for if allowed to

become quite dry they must be sprinkled with

water either by hand or with a small watering-

can. Every part of the article must be evenly

sprinkled, and at the same time not made too

wet. When sprinkling by hand, hold the basin

of water in the left hand, take up as much in the

right as it will hold, and sprinkle it Ughtly over

the material, letting the drops be as small as

possible, and going over every part. Smooth out

the tilings well, fold evenly, seeing that the

selvedges in such things as towels, counterpanes,

sheets, &c., meet exactly.

Avoid all unnecessary creases, but fold the

clothes to a convenient size for passing tlirough

the mangle, and of an equal thickness, so that

the pressure of the mangle may come on every

part. Pack the clothes into a basket, placing

all of one kind together ; those requiring ironing

underneath, and those requiring mangling only

on the top. Cover them over, and lot them lie

for some time, over-night if possible, before

ironing or mangling them.

Mangling. - Mangling is a process of smoothing

clothes by passing them between hea\y rollers,

which are sometimes heated. All household linen,

such as towels, sheets, pillow-cases, table-cloths,

table-napkins, &c., and most body linen may

bo mangled. Mangling requires great care and

280

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

attention in order not to stretch the articles nor

strcun them unduly. Take the damp and folded

things and place them in the mangle perfectly

straight. Do not put too many things in at one

time, and keep smoothing them out as they are

put in to prevent pleats and creases. Work the

mangle steadily, not too quickly, and not by

fits and starts.

It is better if two people can work together ;

then one can smooth and hold the linen as it

passes tlirough, and the other can turn the

handle. Pass the Unen tlirough once or twice,

and keep the tension tight enough to press the

material sufficiently without straining the

mangle unduly. Then fold up and lay to one

side such articles as require ironing, and hang

up to air those that are finished, such as sheets

and some towels.

Airing. - Everything must be thoroughly aired

either after ironing or mangling, and before it is

laid away. The greatest care must be taken

that no dampness is left in them before they are

folded and laid away. Carelessness in this

respect may lead to very grave results.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR IRONING

There is no process in laundry work which

requires greater or neater handUng than that

of ironing, and the proverb, " Practice makes

Perfect," can perhaps be better apphed to tliis

than to any other branch of household work.

Until it can be done with speed it cannot be done

well. An iron cools so quickly that, unless it

can be expeditiously handled, very Uttle can be

done with one, and constant changing not only

makes it a very tiring process, but the clothes

become so dry before they are finished that they

never look well. A novice at the work is almost

sure to meet with disappointment until a certain

amount of experience has been gained.

The ironing table must be placed in a good

light. Daylight is best, and the worker should

stand in such a position that the light will strike

upon the work. Cover the table according to

directions given on p. 273, and have everything

at hand that will be required before commencing

to iron. Have on the table a basin of clean cold

water, set on a plate to prevent its upsetting,

and one or two pieces of clean rag or old handker-

chief to use for rubbing or damping down the

clothes. Place the iron-stand and holder at

the right-hand side and the articles to be ironed

at the left.

The clothes to be ironed must be slightly

damp, but not too wet. Knowledge of the

correct heat of an iron can only be learnt with

practice, no written rules can be of much assist-

ance. If too hot, it will fcorch, and if not hot

enough it will fail to give the necessary gloss,

and may even soil the work. A learner should

test the heat of an iron on a piece of rag kept

on the table for the purpose. The heat of the

iron will bo regulated by the kind of material to

be ironed, and also by the speed of the worker.

Where there is a large plain surface to be ironed,

as in table Unen, a hot and heavy iron can be

used, but when it is something more intricate

and the work cannot be done so quickly, a cooler

iron must be taken. When ironing, lift the iron

as little as possible, and do not thump it down.

Ironing should not be a noisy proceeding.

Iron quickly and at the same time press well.

Prepare and smooth out the work with the left

hand whilst ironing with the right. When any

wrinkle is made in ironing, damp it over with a

wet rag and iron again. Handle the things so

as not to crush the parts already ironed. There

is quite an art in the way the clothes are lifted

and moved about. Iron until the material is

quite dry, and air everything before it is laid

away.

THE MAKING OF STARCH AND GENERAL

DIRECTIONS FOR ITS USE

Clear or Hot-Water Starch. - It is somewhat

difficult to give exact proportions for the making

of this starch, so much depends upon the number

of articles to be starched and the stiffness

required. Individual taste must also be taken

into consideration, some preferring the articles

very stiff, and others the merest suspicion of

starch.

For a moderate quantity, take say two table-

spoonfuls of dry starch, put it into a clean basin,

and add to it enough cold water to make a thick

paste. Work this with the back of a wooden

spoon until quite smooth and free from lumps.

Have a kettle of fast-boiling water on the fire,

take the basin of starch to it, and let a second

person pour the boiling water slowly in. Keep

stirring all the time until the starch turns clear

and transparent, when it is said to be made. The

kettle should not be taken from the fire, but kept

fast boiling all the time. The water used ought

to bo soft and colourless. Should the ■starch

not become clear, it will show that either the

water in the kettle has not been boiling, or too

much cold water has been used in the first mixing.

The mistake can, however, be remedied by turn-

ing the starch into a clean lined saucepan, and

stirring it over the fire until it boils and turns

clear. In fact, some people prefer always to boil

the starch, and say that it brings out its stiffening

qualities to the best advantage.

If the starch is of a yellow hue, a Uttle blue

may bo added to it. A little wax is frequently

added to hot starch to make the articles starched

iron more smoothly, but if the iron itself is

waxed as before described (see p. 273) this is not

necessary.

The starch should bo stirred for a short time

after mixing to prevent a skin forming on the

top of it, and should be kept covered when not

in use.

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

281

It may be used in its present condition for

making articles very stiff, or can be diluted to

suit laces and muslins. For diluting purposes

the water need not necessarily be boiling. It is

sometimes more convenient to use it cold, as it

makes the starch of a more comfortable heat to

use. Do not make more of this starch than will

be required at one time. It will keep for a day

or two, but is better when used fresh.

This starch is used for the stiffening of table

linen, prints, musUns, embroidery, petticoats,

dresses, &c.

Coloured starches are made in the same way

as the above. As a rule they require mixing

with some white starch. Used alone, the

colour is too deep for ordinary purposes. For

instance, for a pale yellow colour, mix in the

proportion of J of cream starch to -J of white,

or for a deeper tint use half of each. The quan-

tity must be regulated according to the shade

required. Special care must be taken when

breaking these coloured starches with cold

water, as if any lumps are left before the boiling

water is poured on they will show up afterwards

as dark coloured spots.

If there is any fear of the starch not being

perfectly smooth, it is safer to strain it.

There are other ingredients which may be

used for tinting starch, as for example : -

For an ecru shade, colour the starch with

coffee. Have some very strong clear coffee, and

use tills for mixing the starch with instead of

water, then pour on boiling water until it turns

clear.

A duller shade, such 13 is seen in old laces, can

be produced by using tea instead of coffee. If a

delicate pink hue is wished, use a decoction of

logwood.

Cold-Water Starch. - The usual proportions

axe : -

2 oz. cold-water starch (rice starch preferred).

3 gills of cold water.

1 tea-spoonful turpentine.

I tea-spoonful powdered borax, or a piece the

size of a small nut of rock borax.

These proportions may vary sUghtly according

to the starch used.

Mix the starch with the cold water, using the

fingers to work out the lumps. Cover the

basin over, and let the starch soak over-night at

least. It is much better if io can soak for several

days ; even although it may turn sUghtly sour,

it will be none the worse, in fact, almost better.

The longer it can soak, the less apt it is to cake

on to the linen.

Care must be taken to keep it very clean and

free from dust.

When about to use it, mix it up again, add the

turpentine, dissolve the borax in a little boiling

water ; if it is rock borax, dissolve it in a sauce-

pan over the fire and add it. If the borax is

left undissolved, it will appear afterwards in

shiny patches on the linen. Use the best quality

of turpentine, or it wiU smell strongly. The

turpentine and borax are added to give a gloss

and to make the iron run more smoothly.

The starch is then ready for use, but must be

well mixed up from the foot of the basin. There

is no harm in making more of this starch than is

reqiiired, as it wiU keep from one week to another.

It must be covered over, and when about to use it

again, if the water on the top looks dirty, pour it

off. The starch itself, which will have sunk to the

foot of the basin, wipe free from dust, and add the

same amount of clean water as before. Add also

a httle more borax and turpentine, about half as

much as before.

This starch is used principally for the stiffen-

ing of collars, cuffs, shirts, and anything that is

required particularly stiff.

BED, TABLE AND OTHER HOUSEHOLD

LINEN

All bed and table linen should be washed

according to general directions already given on

pp. 278-80.

Bed Linen. - Sheets should be stretched well by

two people while damp, folded very evenly in

four, and then mangled. It is not necessary to

iron them, but be particular to air them

thoroughly, turning them occasionally so that

they get dried right through. If there is any

embroidery on the sheets, that must be ironed,

pressing it out well on the wrong side ; or, if they

are hem-stitched, iron the hems to give them a

finished appearance.

Pillow and Bolster-cases may either be mangled

and the tapes only ironed, or they may be ironed

aU over as well as being mangled. The latter

method will of course make them smoother, and

it really reqxiires very httle time to run over

them quickly on both sides with a hot iron. This

is specially necessary for fine Unen pillow-cases.

Ernhroidered Pillow-cases or pillow-shams will

look better if they are put through some very thin

hot-water starch, put several times tlirough the

wringer, and then rolled up for some time in a

towel before ironing. If there are frills, these

should be ironed first, ironing them on the right

side so as to give them a gloss, and go well

into the gathers without making any wrinkles.

Next iron the centre on the right side. If there

is embroidery, keep off it as much as possible,

just ir ning well round it - ironing it on the

right side would press it down. If a pillow-case,

put your hand inside and separate the two sides,

as the starch always makes them stick a little,

then turn over and iron the second side. Iron

both sides free from wrinkles, and trj' to get a good

gloss on the linen. Press out the embroidery well

on the wrong side, and lastly crimp or goffer

the frills (see pp. 284^85.) Air well, and it is

finished.

Bed-Covers. - Thick heavy bed-covers only

require to be stretched and folded evenly while

282

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

damp, well mangled, and then thorouglily aired.

Those of a lighter make are better to be put

through some tliin starch, or some ready-made

starch may be added to the water in wliicli

they are rinsed. Tliis will give them a slight

stiffness, wliich vdll make them look better and

keep their clean appearance longer. If a polish

is wanted, they must bo ironed as well as

mangled. Any lace or embroiderj^ must always

be ironed, and fringes combed and brushed out.

Table Linen, Starching of. - Table linen will

look better and keep its clean appearance longer

if slightly starched. The amount of starch used

depends upon individual taste and the quahty of

the damask. Many people object to the use of

starch entirely on the ground that it rots the

linen. If one had always the very best double

damask to deal with the extra stiffening might

certainly be dispensed with, as the material has

sufficient body in itself to keep its appearance ;

but when the ordinary tliin damask is under

treatment a Uttle starch does no harm, in fact,

it saves in the end, as a table-cloth that is made

slightly stiff will keep clean double the time a per-

fectly limp one would do. Starch also preserves

from stains, and it is only when it is made too

thick, rendering the articles so stiff as to make

them not only lose all their natural beauty, but

also disagreeable to use, that it can be said to be

hurtful.

Table linen should be starched while wet ; it

would be too stiff if starched dry, and the starch

would not penetrate tlirough it so evenly. If

there is a large quantity to starch, it will save

time and much wringing if some very thick

hot-water starch is made (p. 280) and added to the

blue rinsing water ; or if there are only a few

things, after wringing them, put them through

some thin hot-water starch. Wring well after

starching, putting the things through the

wringer as smoothly as possible ; if wrung

twisted they will have a streaky appearance

when ironed. Table napkins and doyleys

should be put through the starch before table-

cloths, as they are required slightly stiffer.

Table-cloths. - After starching dry slightly, and

then each one must be stretched by two

p)eople. Stretch it first one way and then the

other, and shake it out well to get it a good shape

and even at the sides. Fold it by doubling it,

selvedge to selvedge, with the right side out.

Let the single sides drop, and then pick them up,

one on each side, to the double fold. The table-

cloth will then bo folded in four, and the right

side will bo inside. Spread the table-cloth out

on a table and arrange it quite smoothly, making

the folds and the hems at the ends quito even.

Double it and mangle. Lot it lie for some time

rolled up in a cloth before ironing, or if there

is difficulty in getting very hot irons, it will be

as well to let it dry a little first, but be careful it

does not get too dry, or it will not look well.

To iron a table-cloth spread it out smooLhly on

a table in the folds and with the two selvedges

nearest the edge of the table, keep it in the

folds as much as possible. Iron first the upper

part, turn that back, iron the next two parts,

turn back again and iron the next two, and so

on until the whole of the table-cloth has been

ironed on both sides, then double the table-cloth

and mark the fold down with the iron. Air well,

and then either roll or fold. To get a good gloss

on table Unon, the hotter and heavier the irons

are the bettor. Keep them well greased, and

press heavily, ironing until almost dry. If the

table-cloth is very large, it is better if two people

can iron it at one time, otherwise it would get

dry before it was all finished.

Table-Napkins. - Fold them double, selvedge

to selvedge, perfectly evenly, and mangle

several at one time, then let them lie rolled up

in a towel for some time before ironing.

To iron them, take one at a time, shake out

and stretch evenly, lay out very smoothly on the

table with the right side uppermost and as square

as possible. Iron the right side first, then the

wrong, and back again on the right. Be careful

not to stretch the edges out of shape, and iron

until quite dry. They are ironed on both sides

to avoid having one side rough and the other

smooth, as sometimes happens. Give the hems

an extra iron to dry them well.

Table-napkins can be folded either in three or

in four, according to taste. To fold in four,

fold in the same way as a table-cloth, only on the

opposite side, bringing the right side outside

instead of the wrong. Get the ends very even,

press the folds well with an iron, and fold in

four across, making a square again. Air well

before laying them away. To fold in three,

measure the sides (hems) first, and get them

dixnded into three equal parts, press them down

with an iron to keep them in place, then make

the folds right across and iron them down, fold

in three across to make a square again, and press

with the iron once more. If there is a name, it

must be on the outside when the table-napkin is

folded ; if a monogram or raised initials, iron

well on the wrong side to make the embroidery

stand out.

Doyleys. - Starch in the same way as table-

napkins, and let them lie rolled up for some time.

If they have fringes, shake them well out against

the edge of the table before beginning to iron.

This opens out the fringes. To iron, spread out

on the table, and brush out the fringe all round

with a small brush, and comb it -with a fine

comb until it lies quite straigkt, then iron the

centre of the doyley and the fringes on both

sides, and brush and comb the fringe again until

it is quite soft and free. The brushing and

combing must be done carefully, so as not to

draw out the threads, and always before the

fringe is dried with the iron. Finish by trimming

off any untidy ends with a pair of scissors. If

liked, the fringes may bo curled, using a blunt

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

283

knife or a paper-knife, and curling them in the

same way as an ostrich feather.

Doyleys with netted or tatted edges should be

pinned out on a covered board or table, stretch-

ing each point well and putting in pins where

required. Then iron the centres only (ironing

would spoil the edges), and leave them pinned

out until dry. After unpinning them, if the

edges feel rather stiff and hard, pull them out

with the fingers.

Doyleys with a full lace edge should have the

lace ironed first, then the centre, and, lastly, the

lace goffered round very evenly. (See p. 284.)

Tray Cloths and Sideboard Cloths. - These

should be treated in the same way as other

table linen. If they have fringes these should be

brushed and combed out before they become dry.

If they can be ironed on both sides, then do so ;

but if they have a distinct right side, iron on the

right side only, just pressing out any embroidery

on the wrong side, and iron round the hems. If

there is lace round the edges, iron it first before

the centre, and do any goffering that is required

last of all. There is no particular way of folding

tray cloths and sideboard cloths ; just fold them

to the size which is most suitable for laying

away. Long sideboard cloths are better rolled

than folded.

Other Household Linen

Bedroom Towels. - These should be folded

evenly while damp and well mangled. Then run

over them quickly with a hot iron on both sides,

fold them in foixr lengthways, and air well. If

there are fringes, the :e should be brushed and

combed out before ironing ; and after ironing,

combed out again to make them free and soft.

If there are embroidered initials or monograms

on the towels, press them out well on the wrong

side.

Coarse Bath Towels and Turkish Towels. - These

should neither be mangled nor ironed ; the

rougher thej' are the better. Stretch them well,

iron the plain piece at the ends, comb the fringes,

and fold them evenly. Air them well.

Toilet Covers. - These should be put through

thin starch when wet, wrung out, and hung up

to dry slightly. Then fold them very evenly,

double, and mangle well. Next iron on the right

side to get a good gloss, and brush out any

fringes. To fold them, double lengthways and

press the fold down, and then either roll up or

fold once or twice across. Do not make too many

folds in a toilet cover, or it will not lie well.

Kitchen Towels, Dusters, &c. - These sliould

just bo folded evenly wliile damp, and then

mangled. It is quite unnecessary to iron them,

but air them well before laying away.

BODY LINEN

General Directions for the Doing Up of Body

Linen. - All underclotliiiig must be damp for

ironing. Very thin cambric articles will be

improved by being slightly starched, otherwise

they will have a Ump undressed appearance.

If a httle hot-water starch is put into the water

in which they are blued it will be sufficient.

All that is wanted is to give the cambric the

slight stiffness of new material, and not enough

to make it unpleasant to wear. Ordinary

cotton will not require any starch ; it will be

sufficiently crisp if ironed with a hot iron and

sUghtly damp. All frills and embroidery are

improved by being dipped in very thin hot-

water starch, even although the whole garment

is not being done. This should be done when

the clothes are being damped and rolled up.

Gather up the frill in the hand, dip it into

some very thin starch, and then wring out

in the hands or between the folds of a towel.

The slight stiffness this will give will prevent

the frilling curhng up and otherwise looking

limp.

First iron all embroidery or frills. Embroidery

must be ironed on the wrong side over a piece of

felt or double flannel, in addition to the ironing

blanket, well pressed so as to raise the pattern,

and the points pulled out and ironed until quite

dry. Plain frills or frills with just a narrow lace

edging must be ironed on the right side so as to

give them a gloss ; care must be taken to iron

well up into the gathers and without making

wrinkles. All bands, hems, and double parts

should bo ironed on both sides to give them

a more finished appearance. Always keep the

neck or the top of the garment at your left-hand

side, so that the iron may be more easily run

well up into the gathers. If the cotton should

get dry before it is all ironed, damp it down

with a wet rubber. It will never look glossy

if ironed too dry, but will have a rough appear-

ance. Iron out all tapes. Never leave them

twisted and curled up. Iron round buttons,

not over them, or it will be apt to mark them.

Sometimes seams and tucks are inchned to drag

the articles and cause creases, especially when

the clothes are new. They should then be well

stretched out before applying the iron. New

cotton is always more difficult to iron and make

glossy than that which has been washed several

times.

Crimping. - As a rule tliis is done on plain frills,

or on plain frills with a narrow lace edging ; but

embroidery can also be crimped, especially when

it is put on only slightly full and not starched,

in which case it would be unsuitable for goffering.

Crimping can be done with an ordinary iron,

using the back, side, or point according to the

width of the frill. For a very narrow frill use

the point ; for a wider one the back or side, as

is found easiest. When the frill is very wide,

it is sometimes easier to crimp half of it at one

time, crimping first down near the drawings with

the side of the iron, keeping the point close to

the gathers, and then the upper part with the

284

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

back of the iron. Tlio iron must be cool enough

for you to hold the fingers on it.

To crimp, keep the gatliering of the frill at

yoiu- left-hand side, and the frill itself lying

straight across the table. Commence with the

Crimping.

peu-t nearest the edge of the table, drawing the

frill towards you as it is crimped. Hold the iron

with the right hand, run up part of the frill witli

the part of the iron with which you are going to

crimp, put two or tliree fingers of the left hand

under tlie frill and close to the iron, draw the

iron quickly back, following with the fingers of

the left hand, and crimping the frill underneath

it. Only a small piece, an inch or an inch and

a half, can be crimped at one time.

It requires a good deal of practice to do crimp-

ing quickly, and at the same time finely and

evenly. The thicker the material, the firmer

pull back must be given to the iron.

Special machines can now be had for crimping.

Goffering.

Goffering. - This is done with heated goffering

tongs. A frill rec^uires to be pretty full, and to

be starched, in order to goffer well. For wide

and full frills, use the large size of tongs ; and

for narrow ones, the smaller pair. Have two

pairs of tongs of exactly the same size in use at

one time, so that one pair can be heating whilst

you are using the other. Always test them on

a piece of rag or paper first, and see that they

are thorouglily clean and not too hot before

you apply them to the frill.

Place the frill to be goffered lengthways on

the table, with the drawings from you. Pin out

straight as much of the frill as possible at one

time, to keep it steady. Commence at the right-

hand end of the frill and work towards the left.

Hold the tongs in the right hand, putting the

thumb in the lower hole, and the second or

third finger in the upper ; put the tongs right

up to the drawings of the frill, and then turn thorn

half round, so that the hole with the thumb in it

comes uppermost ; keep two or tliree fingers of

the left hand close to the tongs to keep the

goffering in position, and let them remain there

until the tongs are loosened sUghtly and drawn

gently out. Then go a Uttle distance further

back and do the same again, working from right

to left, and being careful not to pull out what

has been already done. In drawing out the tongs

be careful to keep them as flat to the table as

possible, and do not give them an upward jerk.

The distance the goffers are apart depends

on the fulness of the frill. The fuller the frill

the closer the goffers can be. Sometimes when

a frill is only sUghtly drawn merely the mark of

the tongs can be shown.

Always keep the goffering tongs on the straight

of the frill, or with the thread of the material.

Goffering should be regular, and an equal distance

apart. This is sometimes rather difficult if the

frill is not drawn evenly. If there are two frills

to be goffered, do the upper first, then the under.

With practice, goffering can be done quite

quickly. The more quickly it is done, the hotter

the tongs can be used.

Folding and Airing. - Folding depends very

much upon individual taste, and upon the shape

of the garment to be folded. Shapes vary so

much that it is difficult to lay down any hard-and-

fast rules, only it is as well to have some general

rules for guidance.

Always fold so as to crush the garment as

little as possible, laying in pleats caiefuUy

where required. Iron down each fold or pleat

as you make it to keep it in position. Fold

garments so as to show as much of the embroidery

as possible, always having the inside as tidy and

smooth as the outside, I'nd making each a con-

venient size. Keep all tapes to the inside.

All underclothing must bo thoroughly aired

before it is laid away. Although the things seem

dry after ironing, there is always a certain amount

of moisture which clings to them from the iron.

The greatest care and attention should be paid

to this, as want of thought may lead to the

gravest results.

How to Iron and Fold a Chemise. - Have the

chemise on the right side to begin with. First

iron any trimming, frills, or embroidery, and

also bands on both sides. Next fold the chemise

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

285

down the centre of the back, keeping the neck

at your left-hand side. Iron the back, first on

one side, and then tarn over and iron on the

other ; iron the hem at the foot on the wrong

side, and when ironing up near the gathers at

the neck, hft up slightly, so that the iron may

run well up into the gathers, being careful not

to crease the under side. Then open the

chemise out and lay it on the table, so that the

whole of the back is uppermost ; iron the front

hem on the wrong side, and round the arm-holes

and sleeves on the back. The back is then

nmshed. Turn the chemise over and iron the

front- first the bottom part straight across

and the rest of it lengthways ; iron well up into

the gathers and round the arm-holes and sleeves,

and the chemise is finished. Any goffering or

crimping must be done before folding, layincr

It out on the table, or double it so as not to

crush. If there is only a little fulness at the

corners of the embroidery, this can be goffered

after folding.

A chemise may be folded in two different ways

-the side fold or the front fold. For a plain

chemise the side fold is best ; and for a more

elaborately trimmed one the front fold. For

the side fold, double the chemise, bringing the

two side-seams and two shoulders together,

with the back inside and the front out ; lay it

on the table wivh the n- ck at the left-hand side

and the band down the opening of the front

turned uppermost (Fig. 1). Take hold of the

neck and the bottom of the chemise, and stretch

it so that it falls in pleats. Arrange these pleats

evenly, two or three according to the fulness at

the band, and iron them well down (Fig. 2).

Turn the chemise over, see that the pleats are

even on the other side, fold the chemise again

lengthways, making it the same width all the

way down, and turning in an extra piece at the

foot if it is too wide there ; pleat the sleeves back

a httle so that the embroidery only shows over

the sides (Fig. 3), and then fold from the bottom

upwards in tliree or four, according to the size

you wish it to be when finished (Fig. 4). Air

well before laying it away.

For the front fold, first fold the chemise double

so as to find the centre of the back, make a mark

with the iron and open out again. Keep the

back of the chemise uppermost on the table, and

the neck at the left-hand side. Fold in two or

three pleats from the side in towards the centre

of the back and press them weU down (Fig. 1).

Then pleat the other side in towards the centre

of the back in exactly the same way, making the

chemise an equal width all the way down, and

not too broad. Fold the sleeves so that the

embroidery only shows over the sides (Fig. 2),

and fold the chemise into three or four from the

bottom upwards, press well, turn over and see

that the front looks quite straight ; air well, and

it is finished (Fig. 3).

How to Iron and Fold a Pair of Drawers.- Iron

any embroidery or trimming first, and the bands

on both sides. When ironing the waistband,

keep the band next you, and lying lengthways

on the table, and iron the strings if there are any.

Place the pair of drawers on the table front

uppermost, with the waistband at the left-hand

side. Commence with the leg nearest the edge

of the table, smooth it out and iron straight

286

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

across as far up and down as possible until the

drawings interfere, then iron up into the draw-

ings at the top, and if knickerbockers, iron

down into the drawings at the foot, holding the

iron with the left hand. Then iron the hem on

the under part of the leg on the wrong side, and

draw that leg over the table out of the way

whilst the other leg is being ironed. Iron the

second leg on the same side and in the same way.

Next turn the pair of drawers over, still keeping

the band at the left-hand side, and iron the

other side of the legs in the same manner as the

first, not forgetting to iron the hems of the

front part on the wTong side. Goffer or crimp

the frills if necessary, and the drawers are

ready for folding.

To fold a pair of drawers, place the two legs

evenly one on the top of the other, fold in the

shaped piece so as to make them the same width

all the way down, turn any strings insido to

prevent their being pulled off, and fold the

drawers from the top downwards in three or

four. If there is any embroidery at the foot,

separate the two pieces, doubling one leg back

BO far so as to show both pieces of embroidery.

Crimp or goffer the trimming if necessary.

Knickerbockers require to be pleated to make

them lie smoothly. Pleat one leg down, putting

in two or three pleats according to the fulness

between the bands, and not pleating the bands

themselves, then iron the pleats well down.

Place the other leg on the top of that one, and

pleat it in the same way, keeping it exactly

the same width, and having the same number of

pleats (Fig. a). Finish ofi the same as a pair of

drawers (Figs, b, c).

How to Iron and Fold a Pair of Combinations. -

Iron all embroidery and bands first, then place

the combinations on the table with the neck at the

left-hand side, and iron the upper part down as

far as the waist, smootliing out each piece. Then

fold the legs evenly by the side -seams, and iron

them in the same way as a pair of drawers, first

on one side, and then on the other, and the

sleeves on both sides. Iron the front hems on

the wrong side, do any goffering or crimping

that is required, and tlioy are ready for folding.

Combinations require very careful handling, one

part is so liable to be crushed while another is

being ironed.

To fold a pair of combinations, fold them

double first, bringing the sides of the bodice,

the sides of the legs, and the two shoulders

together. As the back is usually longer than

the front, see that it lies smoothly underneath.

It generally requires a pleat put in it just at the

waist. If the combinations are very wide and

Uke knickerbockers, put pleats in them, two or

three according to the fulness, and continue one

or two of them up the front of the bodice (Fig. 1).

Then place the combinations on the table with

the button-hole side uppermost, double over the

shaped part of the leg by dotted line (Fig. 1), so

as to make them the same width aU the way up,

then double them from the bottom upwards, so

as to make the trimming at the foot come just

below the trimming at the neck (Fig. 2), turn

over and double them again. Lastly, turn back

and see that they look nicely arranged, doubling

back the sleeves if necessary, and separating

the legs so as to show both pieces of embroidery

(Fig. 3).

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

287

How to Iron and Fold a Night-Dress. - A night-

dress is ironed in very much the same way as a

chemise. If there is a yoke, iron it after the

embroidery and bands. Iron the skirt of the

night-dress in the same way as a chemise, leaving

the sleeves to the last. To iron the sleeves fold

the night-dress double lengthways, keep the neck

at the left-hand side and the sleeves towards the

edge of the table, throw back the upper sleeve,

and iron the under one on the top side ; then fold

it back underneath, draw the other one forward,

and iron it on the same side. Next turn the night-

dress so that the neck is at the right-hand side,

and iron the other two sides of the sleeves in

the same way. This way of ironing the sleeves

prevents a^ny crusliing of the night-dress. Crimp

or goffer any frills that reqiiire it, and the night-

dress is ready for folding.

A night-dress raay be folded in two ways, like a

chemise, by the side fold or the front fold, and

the two blf^eves must be made to lie nicely over

the front.

FLANNELS AND WOOLLEN ARTICLES

The term flannels, when used in the following

paragraphs, appUes to woollqn goods of all kinds,

whether knitted, crocheted, woven, or flannel

proper.

The washing of flannels is one of the simplest

branches of laundry work. The rules are few

and easy, but none the less important. Given

the necessary reqiiisites, a tub of hot water,

some liquid soap, a Mttle ammonia and a

wringer, there is no excuse for the flannels not

being soft and elastic ifter washing, but if the

rules are disregarded, the result will in all

probability be hard shrunken garments re-

sembling cheap tweed.

Soap Jelly. - As this is used instead of a piece

of soap, it ought to be prepared first of all.

Take as much soap as will be required, and

cut it down in slireds with a knife. Put it into

a saucepan, and just cover it with cold or hot

water. Allow the soap to melt slowly over the

fire until it is quite clear and without lumps.

Let it melt slowly, as boiling wastes it. Do not

fill the saucepan too full, as soap is very liable

to boil over. The soap may be put into a jar

instead of a saucepan, and melted in the oven.

Any ends of soap raay be used up in this way.

It is better to make soap jeily freshly each week,

as it loses its strength if kept many days.

Remember that soap will taste very strongly

anything with which it comes in contact, so that

the knife and board on which it is cut, also the

saucepan in which it is melted, ought to be kept

for that purpose only.

Any good soap will do ; olive oil is excellent if

it can be obtained, but, failing that, good yellow

soap will serve the piu-pose.

Instead of soap jelly, Lux, or any other form of

shredded soap, can be used, but care should be

taken that it does not contain a quantity of

soda.

General Directions. - The best plan is to wash

flannels either before or after all the other clothes.

The former is better if they can be dried outside,

as they wiU then have the benefit of the morning

air and sun. First shake the flannels, in order to

get rid of any loose dust, and divide them into

lots according to colo\ir and kind - white articles

and those that are least soiled by themselves,

then other hght-coloured articles, such as grey

and drab. Stockings and socks should always

form a lot by themselves, and also dark -coloured

things, or those in which the colour is likely to

run, as reds and crimsons. To wash the flannels

prepare a tub half full of warm water, not too

hot, but just comfortable for the hand to rest in.

To be exact the temperature should be from 35№

to 45№ Centigrade. Then add enough ammonia

to make the water smell slightly. The quantity

will depend somewhat upon the strength of the

ammonia ; from one to two table -spoonfuls in a

tub of water will generally be found ample. This

will soften the water, dissolve the grease in the

flannels, and thus save some of the friction of

washing. Commence with the wliitest and

cleanest articles, leaving the most soiled and

those in wliich the colour is Ukely to run until

the last.

Avoid rubbing flannels except any particularly

soiled parts, or those of a coarse make, as rubbing

inchnes to shrink them ; but squeeze well and

work up and down in the water, drawing them

through the hands.

A httle soap may be rubbed on any cotton

bands. Wlien the first garment is finished,

squeeze it out in the hands, or, better still, put

it tlirough the wringer and proceed with the other

articles in the same way. If not clean after the

first washing, repeat the process, using less soap

and ammonia in the second water. Garments

that are tm-nable, as night-dresses, combinations,

&c., should be washed on the right side in the

first water and on the uTong side in the second,

and then left on the wrong side until dry.

After the light-colomred flannels are done,

the same lather may do for the darker ones ; only,

if the water is dirty or if the lather has dis-

appeared, take entirely fresh water, and use the

second lather of the Ught tilings as the first of

the darker. Never wash in dirty water, and

never rub soap on to flannels. Do not com-

mence too many flannels at one time, as the

sooner they are finished and hung up to dry the

better. It is specially necessary to hiu-ry through

the process in washing coloured flannels.

Rinsing. - \Vlien the flannels are quite clean,

rinse them in plenty of warm water, two or three

times if necessary, until they feel soft to the

touch. Should any soap be left in them, they

will not only be hard and sticky, but have an

unpleasant smell when dried. Never rinse in

too hot or cold water, as either of these would

288

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

cause them to shrink suddenly, and feel hard

like pasteboard. A little blue may be added to

the Itist water in wliich white flannels are rinsed.

When thoroughly rinsed, wring the flannels as

dry as possible. This is best done through the

machine, as it does not twist them. Any rough

twisting would break the fibres of the wool.

Shake them well to raise the " nap " or soft

woolly substance on the surface of the material,

pull into a good shape, and they are ready for

drying.

Drying. - ^Flannels must on no account be

allowed to he about wet. This shrinks them

more than anything. Whenever it is possible,

they should be dried in the open air in a good

wind and not too bright a sun. Faihng this,

dry them in a warm atmosphere, where they will

dry quickly ; but at the same time they must

not be put so close to an open fire or in such a hot

place that they steam. This would be as bad

as putting them into boiUng water. Shake the

flannels, and tvirn them once or twice wliile dry-

ing, pulUng them into a good shape.

Mangling or Ironing. - For the coarser and

thicker flannels it will be sufficient if they are

mangled when nearly dry. Any bands or tapes

must be ironed, and then the articles hung up

again to finish drying. The finer kinds should be

ironed when nearly dry with a rather cool iron.

If they have become quite dry it will be necessary

to spread a slightly damp cloth over them and

iron over that, pressing heavily. Never iron

flannels very wet or the hot iron will shrink them

up, and on no account must the iron be too hot,

especially in ironing coloured flannels. Should

any scorching occur, dip the piece in warm water,

squeeze it well, and rub gently, then wring out

and re-dry, or rub with a silver coin and the

scorch will disappear.

Reasons for Flannels Shrinking. -

1. Soap has been rubbed on them instead of

soap jelly being used.

2. They have either been washed or rinsed in

too hot OF cold water.

3. They have been allowed to lie about wet,

instead of being hung up to dry immediately.

4. They have been dried too slowly.

5. They have been dried so close to an open

fire that they steamed.

6. They have been ironed while wet with a very

hot iron.

Spkcial Articles

New Flannels and Sanitary Underclothing. - These

are better to bo soaked for about half-an-hour

b. fore washing in warm water with ammonia in

it, one table -spoonful to two gallons of water.

Cover the tub over to prevent the heat escaping,

and squeeze and wring them out of this before

the water has time to get cold. This process

draws out some of the sulphur which new flannels

contain, and which would prevent the soap

making a lather, and it also helps to remove

the greeise. Then wash in the same way as

flannels.

Stockings and Socks. - The comfort of stockings

and socks, as well as their durabihty, depends

very much upon their being well washed. The

soles, heels, and toes require special attention.

These should always be rubbed, using the wash-

ing-board and a little soap if necessary. Wash

them first on the right side, then turn and wash

on the wrong, giving them two waters. Fold

them evenly by the seam at the back of the leg

before wringing and drying. When nearly dry

either mangle them or iron them on the WTong

side, and leave them wrong side out ready

for mending.

Red or Crimson Flannel. - ^This is rather

troublesome to wash, and however careful one

may be it is almost impossible to prevent the

colour running. Ammonia should be omitted

from the water in wliich it is washed, and vinegar

should be added to the rinsing water in the

proportion of foui' table -spoonfuls to one gallon

of water. This helps to brighten the colour.

Blankets. - Always choose a fine day for

washing blankets, as it is a mistake to dry them

indoors. First shake them well, and then pre-

pare water with soap jelly, the same as for

flannels, and in the largest tub you have. Put

the blankets in, one or two at a time, move

them up and down in this, squeezing and press-

ing them against the sides ; then put them in

a second tub of the same kind of water to

repeat the process. In Scotland, instead of

being washed with the hands, they are tramped

with the bare feet. They may also be pounded

with a dolly. Rinse well until free from soap,

and then wring. If the wringer is used, let

the rollers be as loose as possible. The colour

of the blankets depends very much upon the

cleanliness of the water they are washed in, so

be particular to change it whenever necessary.

Shake the blankets well before hanging up to

dry, and hang them quite straight and singly on

the clothes -rope in a gentle wind. See that they

are securely fastened and well raised above tho

ground. When dry, take them down, stretch

them well, and rub all over with a piece of clean

rough flannel so as to raise the pile, and then

hang them near a fire for some time, as it is

most important to have them thoroughly

dry.

Shetland and other Shawls. - Wash in the same

way as flannels, but handle more gently,

especially tho finer ones, squeezing them well,

and being careful not to break the threads of

wool. Rinse them in warm water, putting a

little blue into the last rinsing water for white

shawls, and for fine Shetland shawls a little hot-

water starch, about one breakfast-cupful thick

starch to half a gallon of water. Squeeze the

water well out of the shawls, or put them through

a wringer. Avoid twisting them in any way.

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

289

If there is no wringer, after squeezing out as

much of the water as possible with the hands,

beat well between the folds of a towel.

To dry a shawl, spread a sheet on the floor and

pin it tightly at the corners ; pin out the shawl

on this, stretching it well but not over much,

pin out each point, and be careful to keep the

shawl a good shape. Leave it till quite dry, then

unpin carefully, shake it out, and air if necessary.

The Sulphur Bath. - White shawls and flannels

which have become yellow may be wloitened by

putting them in a sulphur bath. Take a deep

barrel, break up about one oz. of rock sulphur,

and put it on an old plate or tin dish at the foot

of it ; sprinkle over the sulphtu* a few drops

of methylated spirits, and then set fire to it.

When the methylated spirits has burnt out and

the sulphur itself is burning, suspend the flannels

or shawls across the fumes. Tliis must be done

just before they are dried. Twist them loosely

round sticks, pinning them here and there to

prevent their slipping down and catching fire,

and place the sticks across the barrel ; or a

wire cage may be used, suspended on the top

of the barrel. Cover over with a blanket or

something thick enough to keep in the fumes,

and let them remain about twenty minutes.

Turn the things once during the time, so that

every part of them gets whitened. Great care

must be taken to have the things raised suffi-

ciently high above the sulphur to avoid all

danger of their catching fire.

A Chamois Leather. - This may be washed

and made to look equal to new if the following

directions are carried out. Prepare a lather with

water and soap, the san.3 as for flannels, put the

leather into this, and squeeze it gently between

the hands. Repeat the process if not clean after

the first water, and until the last soapy water

looks quite clean. Do not rinse, but wring

straight out of the soapy water. Hang up to

dry, rubbing and pulUng it out occasionally

with the hands in order to keep it soft. It may

be smoothed out last of all with a cool iron.

Eiderdown Quilts. - To wash a large eiderdown

quilt is rather hard work, and unless a good

wringer is available and ample drying accom-

modation, it should scarcely be attempted.

But with these conveniences an eiderdown

of moderate dimensions can be very easily

tackled, and the results will be most satisfactory

if the few needful rules are attended to. Before

starting the actual washing shake the quilt, '

to free it from all loose dust, and if there are

any holes, either mend them or draw them

together with a needle and cotton. Then

wash according to directions given for flannel

washing, or when large treat as blankets. If

the coloiu" runs, use the water jiist tepid.

Rinse in an abundant supply of warm water,

adding a little salt or ammonia to the last to

brighten the colour. There must on no account

be any soap left in the quilt. Wring it carefully

through the machine, loosening the tension to

the fullest extent if necessary. The drying

requires special attention. Shake out the

eiderdown ; it is better if two people can do this

- and hang it up, out of doors if possible, in

a good wind and not too much sun, or, fail-

ing that, in a warm atmosphere in the house.

Whilst drying the quilt must be taken down

from time to time and rubbed and shaken, to

loosen the down and prevent it forming into

clots. When dry, it shoiild be quite as soft as

when new.

Swansdown. - Wash gently in warm water,

making a lather with soap jelly, and rinse in

tepid water. Then hold it a little distance from

the fire and shake till quite dry and fluffy.

Flannelette. - Wash in the same way as

flannel, only it will take no harm if rinsed in

cold water. White flannelette may even be

boiled along with cotton articles. Dry and

finish off Hke flannels.

Delaine. - When carefully washed, delaine

should look equal to new. Wash it in exactly the

same way as flannels, and be careful with the

rinsing. Add ammonia in the proportion of

one table -spoonful to one gallon of water to the

last warm water. This will help to brighten the

coloiu". Iron wliile slightly damp, and not so dry

as for flannel. K it is Uned, iron the Hning first.

Velveteen. - Cotton velvets, especially the

light-coloured ones, can be waslaed and be made

to look quite well. Wash in the same way as

flannel with a lather of soap and warm water,

and rinse first in warm and then in cold water.

When nearly dry iron on the wrong side with a

moderately hot iron.

White Coque Feather Boas. - (See p. 318.)

MUSLINS, LACE, CURTAINS, AND NET

The Washing of Muslin. - Muslin requires very

careful treatment, and especially coloured musUn

if it is being washed for the first time. It must

be treated more carefully than ordinary cotton,

and not be pulled out of shape nor stretched, or

it will have a drawn appearance. Being thin

and open in textiu-e it is easy to wash without

any rough treatment. First soak the mushn in

cold or tepid water to take out the dressing or

stiffening ; then wring or squeeze out gently.

Prepare a small tub or basin of warm water,

and make a lather with melted soap in the same

way as for flannels. Squeeze the muslin well

in this, and work it up and do^vn in the water.

In the case of very soiled articles a httle borax

or ammonia may be added to soften the water

and draw out tho dirt. If not clean after the

first washing, repeat the process in fresh soapy

water, using rather less soap the second time.

If washing, is not sufficient to make the muslin

a good colour, it should be boiled (see p. 278).

Then rinse first in tepid and then in cold

wat-er, until every trace of soap has been rљ-

290

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

moved. Pure white muslin may have a little

blue added to the last rinsing water. If the

muslin is coloured, and the colours are likely to

run, soak it first in salt and water, allowing a

handful of salt to a gallon of water. Let the water

for the fii-st washing bo just tepid, and proceed as

quickly as possible, putting salt again or a little

ammonia in the final rinsing water. Coloxu-ed

muslin must on no account be boiled.

Clear Starching and Ironing. - All muslin should

be starched wet. If put into the starch dry, it

never looks so clear. Prepare some clear starch

(see p. 2S0), and tliin it to the consistency re-

quired. This depends upon what the muslin is

wanted for, and accorchng to the degree of

stiffness desired. It is imiDossible to give the

exact quantities of starch necessary for clear

starch, as different qualities and makes of starch

require more water than others, but experience

will soon teach this, and at first it will be just

as well to test the stiffness of the starch on a

small piece of mushn. Be sure to have the

starch clear, put the musUns into it, putting in

first those white articles wliich are wished stiffest.

Let the starch soak well through, then wring

well, putting them twice at least through the

wringing machine. In starching coloured

muslins do not let the starch be too hot, or it

will destroy the colours ; and never put things

through the wringer straight out of boiling hot

starch as it ruins the india-rubber rollers. In

thinning the starch, after it has been made clear

with boihng water, cold water may be used, and

that will make the starch a more comfortable

heat to use.

After wringing the musUns shake them well,

smooth out, and let them lie for some time

rolled up in a towel before ironing. Muslin must

be ironed wet. If allowed to get dry, it will have

a rough appearance when ironed. Iron on the

right side to give it a gloss, and the way of the

thread as much as possible. When ironing a

large piece of musUn, keep as much of it covered

over at one time as you conveniently can, to

prevent it becoming dry. Should the muslin

dry before it is ironed, damp it down very evenly

with a wet rubber or towel, not missing a piece,

or it will not look smooth. Embroidered muslin

should bo ironed on the wrong side, to raise

the pattern. Spotted muslin should also be

ironed on the wrong side, unless the spots are

pretty far apart, when it may look better ironed

first on the right side to give the muslin a gloss,

and afterwards ironed over on the wrong to press

out the spots. In ironing coloured musUns do

not use the iron too hot, as it is apt to destroy

the colours.

Muslin trimmed with lace should have the

lace ironed first and then the muslin itself. If

the muslin feels too stiff after ironing, the fault

can be remedied by putting it through water and

then ironing again. Air muslin well after

ironing or it will become limp.

Washing of Lace. - To "do up " lace nicely is

by no means difficult, in fact, it is one of the

most interesting and least fatiguing branches

of laundry work and amply repays the trouble

expended upon it. Care and attention to de-

tails is all that is required. The lace should

first be carefully mended if necessary, and any

tacking or di-awing threads removed.

If very much soiled, soak it for several hours

in a lather of warm water and soap, and allow

one tea -spoonful of powdered borax to one quart

of water. Then squeeze it out of the soaking

water, and wash it in two or three warm lathers

of soap and water. Do not rub it, but squeeze

between the hands and press it well. Any

rubbing or tv\ isting would break the tliroads of the

lace, especially if it were of a fine make. When

clean, rinse well in tepid water and then in cold,

and if time permits allow it to lie for some time

in the cold water to clear it. Pure white lace

may have the last rinsing water shghtly tinged

with blue.

If after repeated washings the lace still has a

soiled look, it may either be bleached in the sun

or boiled. To boil lace put it into a jar or jam

pot, wi'th cold water to cover it, and a little soap

jelly ; stand the jar in a saucepan with boiling

water to reach fully half-way up the jar, put the

lid on the pan and boil for two or tlu-ee hoiu-s.

Care must be taken that the water in the pan

does not boil away.

Stiffening of Lace. - ^There is great difference of

opinion about the stiffening of lace, and many

object to the use of starch on the ground that

it makes the lace too stiff and tends to destroy

it. As a rule, however, a httle starch or other

stiffening is an improvement to most laces, but

the aim must be to get the lace of the same

stiffness as when new and no stiffer. For the

thicker and commoner laces use hot-water

starch. (See p. 280.)

Take some clear starch and thin it down until

it feels like slightly thickened water, or for

heavy laces it may be a Mttle thicker. Allow

the lace to soak in this for some little time, and

then squeeze out gently with the hands. Spread

it out between the folds of a fine towel or old

handkerchief, and eitlier beat it between the

hands to remove some of the starch or pass it

carefully through the wringing machine. Avoid

twisting the lace in any way.

Cream lace may bo put through cream starch

or through starch coloured with tea or coffee

(see Coloured Starches, p. 281), instead of white

starch.

In the case of very fine lace use gum water

instead of starch. This can be used without

any danger of its rotting the fabiic, and the

following are the directions for making it : -

Gum Water. - Take one ounce of gum-arabic

and put it into a saucepan with one pint of

boiling water. Dissolve slowly over the fire,

stirring occasionally, then strain through musUn,

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

291

and bottle ready for use. Allow one table-

spoonful of this melted gum to half a pint of cold

water. Soak the lace in it for half-an-hour, and

proceed in the same way as with starched lace.

To tint the lace use strained tea or coffee with

the gum water instead of plain water.

After wringing p\ill the lace out gently with

the fingers and roll it up with the wrong side

inside. Wrap it in a towel and let it lie for an

hour at least before ironing.

Ironing of Lace. - Take a piece of clean wliite

felt or flannel of tliree or foiu" thicknesses, and

iron the lace over this on the wrong side and

with a moderately hot iron. The points of the

lace must be placed furthest from the edge of

the table, and must be well ironed out. Do not

unroll too much of the lace at one time, and iron

until quite dry. If too stiff rub gently between

the fingers to take out some of the starch, and

iron again. Press weU with the iron, and at the

same time not too roughly, and use the point of

the iron to raise the pattern of the lace. Keep

the lace the same width all the way along, and air

it well before lasdng it away. Very fine lace

should be ironed with a piece of mushn over it,

and never touched with the bare iron. Ironing

too with regard to lace is frequently objected to,

but if carefully done no trace of the iron should

be seen, and the resvilt should be most satis-

factory.

White Silk Lace. - This may be washed in the

same way as any other lace, but should never be

boiled. After rinsing, steep for half-an-hour in

half a pint of hot milk, to which one dessert-

spoonful of gum water has been added. This

will restore the colour. Then proceed as for

other lace.

How to Iron a Muslin and Lace Handkerchief. -

This must be put through the very thinnest

starch or gum water, and wrung in the same

careful way as lace.

Iron the lace first, pulling it out after ironing

to keep it soft, and then iron it over again. Iron

the centre part next. Turn over to the right

side, and wet the muslin part over with a damp

rubber (it is sure to have become dry while the

lace was being ironed). Iron it with a rather

cool iron until smooth and glossy. If necessary,

press out the lace round the edges last of all,

and the handkerchief is finished.

Black Lace. - First brush it well with a soft

brush to get rid of as much dust as possible. If

it is spotted or stained, wash it in tea with a very

little soap jelly added, then rinse it in more tea,

and finally let it soak for about half-an-hour in

prepared tea. Add prepared gum (see p. 290)

in the proportion of one table-spoonful to one

pint of tea. If the lace is quite clean, and you

merely wish to stiffen and renew its appearance,

you may dispense with the wasliing, and simply

soak it in the prepared tea. The gum-arabic

in the ten gives the lace a slight stiffness.

When doing up silk lace, ndd two tea-spoonfuls of

methylated spirits to a half -pint of prepared tea

to give a gloss to the silk in the lace.

After soaking, squeeze the lace out of the tea.

Shake it well, and spread it out between the

folds of a towel or cloth, and either beat it with

the hands or pass it once or twice through the

wringer, then pull it out with the fingers, and

roll up in the same way as white lace.

To iron black lace take a sheet of kitchen

paper, spread the lace out on the smoothest side

of it with the points away from the edge of the

table, cover over with more paper, and iron over

that. Lift the upper pieces of paper occasionally

to see that the lace lies smoothly underneath.

Iron until quite dry, and hang up to air. Black

lace must never be touched with the bare iron ;

there must always be something over it to pre-

vent it getting glazed. Paper not only prevents

the lace staining the ironing sheet, but it also

imparts a sUght stiffness to it.

Curtains. - First shake the curtains well, or

hang them up and brush them down with a soft

brush to get rid of the superfluous dust, then

soak in warm water and borax - one table-spoon-

ful to two gallons of water - for an hour or two.

Squeeze them well in this, and then pass through

the wringing machine.

Wash in warm water, making a lather with

boiled soap. Work them up and down in this,

squeezing and pulUng them through the hands.

If not clean after the first washing, repeat the

process.

Rubbing of all kinds must be avoided, and

it is always dangerous to wash ctu-tains by

machinery. Rinse them first in warm water,

then in plenty of cold. Wring well and starch

them. Pure white curtains may have a Uttle

blue either added to the rinsing water or

mixed in with the starch. If two ounce of

alum dissolved in one gallon of water be used for

rinsing, it will prevent the ciu-tains catching fire

at any time. Starch curtains wet, and have the

starch just a moderate degree of stiffness. For

white ciu-tains, use the ordinary white hot-water

starch ; for cream or ^cru, use starch coloured

with tea or coffee, or cream starch. (See

Coloured Starches, p. 281.)

Curtains ought to be dried quickly ; they are

always better to be stretched and pinned out on

frames for the purpose, or on slieets spread on the

floor. Allow them to remain until almost di-y,

take up and iron round the edges, pressing out

all the points well, then hang up to air. If

there is no convenience for having the ciu-tains

pinned out, partly dry them by hanging them at

a safe distance from the fire, or in a warm room ;

then spread them out on a table, and iron all

over. If curtains are hned, iron the linings first

before stretching and pinning out to dry ; and

when ironing, iron from the middle towards the

sides, so that if there is any fulness it may come

to the edge where it will show least.

Plato and Spotted Net. - Wash in the same way

292

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

as lace, and put through thin hot-water starch.

Iron plain net on the wrong side ; stretch and

pull it out, and then iron again. It must not bo

too stiff, and should look clear. When held up

to the light, the httle holes in tlie net should not

be filled with starch. Iron spotted net in the

same way, only a piece of flannel may be put

under it to make the spots stand out better.

A GeDtleman's Evening Tie. - Care must be

taken in wasliing these to keep them a good

colour. They may bo washed along with laces

or fine muslins, but must not come in contact

with anything dirty. After blueing, and while

still wet, put tliem through clear starch of a

moderate thickness, rather thicker than for

ordinary muslins ; let the starch soak well

through them, and then squeeze out with the

hands. Shake them out well, put them between

the folds of a towel, and pass them through the

wringing machine. To prepare them for ironing

pull them out well, and roll up from left to

right, keeping the muslin the same width all the

way along. If there are hems at the ends of the

ties, notice which is the right side, and keep the

right side inside when roUing. Cover each tie

up as it is prepared, to prevent it becoming dry.

:3>

until all are finished, and it is time to iron them.

To iron one of these ties, take a moderately hot

iron, commence at the loose end of the roll, and

iron carefully along from one end to the other,

unrolUng as required. Iron along several times

until smooth and glossy, ironing on one side only.

Turn over, and it is ready for folding. First turn

down a small piece at the top of the tie, just

sufficient to take in the rough edge of the material,

and press it down with the iron. Next turn up a

piece at the foot of the tie, rather larger than that

at the top, and according to the width the points

are to be (Fig. 1). Be careful to have both ends

alike, and press down with the iron again. Fold

down the top piece again, making the tie the

same width all the way along. Measure the

two points, and if tho^ are exactly alike, iron

along once more (Fig. 2). Fold loosely in four,

and tie a thread round the centre to prevent it

sUpping (Fig. 3).

Chiffon. - Chiffon is washed in the same way as

muslin, and after rinsing, put through very thin

cle xr starch. Bo careful not to twist it in any

way, but enclose it in the folds of a towel, and

either beat it between the hands imtil dry or

put it through the wTinging machine. Do not

let chiffon lie too long before ironing, it dries so

very quickly ; stretch it out to its proper shape,

and iron it on the right side with a moderately

hot iron. If it is a lajge piece, do not expose

too much of it to the air at one time, but keep

the part you are not ironing covered over to

prevent it becoming dry. Pull out occasionally

wliilst ironing to keep it soft, and iron over again.

It must on no account be made stiff, but ought

to fall softly, and just have sufficient stiffness to

prevent it looking limp.

SILKS, PRINTS, AND FANCY ARTICLES

Washing of Silk. - There are many silks wliich

can be washed quite easily and made to look

equal to new, more especially the soft silks, such

as Japanese, Tussore, Foulard, &c., but corded

and glace silks will not be successful, and it is

wiser to have these dry-cleaned.

If a number of different silks have to undergo

treatment, commence by dividing them into lots

- white silks by themselves, light -coloured ones

in another heap, and the darker and brighter-

coloured ones in a third lot apart.

To wash white silk prepare a lather of tepid

water and soap jelly. Squeeze the silk well in this,

and work it up and do^vn in the water. Tako

two or three different soapy waters if necessary

until the silk is quite clean. Never use the

water too hot, as it would make the silk yellow,

and never rub soap on white silk for the same

reason. If the pieces of silk are small, or if they

are silk handkerchiefs, a basin will be quite large

enough for washing in, and then less soap will be

required. At the same time the basin must be

large enough to enable one to work comfortably.

After washing, rinse the silk thoroughly, first

in tepid, and then in plenty of cold water, letting

the water from the tap rush on the silk, or letting

it lie in clear cold water for a short time. It is

most important to get the soap well out of the

silk, or it will look thick and feel hard when

ironed. Pure white silk should have a little

blue added to the last rinsing water, to bring

back its clear bluish colour.

Coloured Silks should be soaked for p short

time before being washed in cold water with a

httle salt in it.

If the colour is inclined to run, this will prevent

it doing so to a certain extent. Silks of different

colours should be soaked separately. Wash the

silks in the same way as white silks, still using the

water tepid, as hot would be more apt to"draw

out the coloiu-s. If the colour comes out very

much, hurry through the process as much as

possible, and do not let the silk lie about between

the different waters, especially where there is a

mixture of colours in the silk, as one colour would

run into the other. It is better to put the

articles as quickly as possible from one water to

the other.

A little salt should be added to the last

rinsing water to help to fix the colour, or with

blues, greens, pinks, and reds a little vinegsu:

sometimes restores and brightens the colour.

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

293

To Put a Gloss on Silk. - After rinsing put the

silk through cold water with methylated spirits

in it, allowang one dessert -spoonful of the spirit

to half -pint of cold water. There is no occasion

to prepare a large quantity of this, but there

must be sufficient to soak the silk thoroughly.

Then squeeze well out.

Wringing and Ironing. - In wringing silk be

most careful not to twist it in any way, as it will

then have a drawn look and a washed appearance

when finished. Squeeze the silk between the

hands, then shake it out, fold it evenly, and

place it between the folds of a towel or piece of

musHn, and afterwards either beat it between

the hands or pass it once or twice through the

WTinging machine. Be careful that there is no

Starch on the rollers when putting it tlirough the

wringer. The silk may he for some time rolled

up in a towel, but must not be allowed to get too

dry before ironing, as to sprinkle it with water

afterwards would give it a spotted appearance.

If it should happen to get dry, it will have to be

put into water again, or damped all over with a

wet rubber. Before ironing, smooth the silk

out well on the table, lay over it a piece of

muslin or old handkerchief, and iron over with a

moderately hot iron. When slightly dry, remove

the covering, and iron with the bare iron, first

on one side and then on the other, to give the

silk e gloss, if the silk feels in the least hard

after ironing, shake it and rub it between the

hands, and then iron again. The silk when

finished shoiold be as smooth and soft £is when

new. Some silks look better without being

glazed. These should never be touched with

the iron, but have something between them and

it. If a very hot iron is put on wet silk, it will

stick to it and crinkle it up. That is the reason

why the silk should be covered when the ironing

is commenced.

In ironing coloured silks do not use the iron

too hot or it will destroy the colours ; and if the

colour is coming out to any extent, spread a

piece of clean cloth over the ironing sheet to

prevent the silk staining it.

A Silk Slip. - Wash according to directions

already given, and after rinsing put it through

gum water in the proportion of two table-

Bpoonfuls of the melted gum (see p. 290) to one

quart of water. Add also a httle methylated

spirits to gum water, and let the silk soak in

this for half-an-hour. This will give a gloss to

the silk and also impart the slight stiffness which

is found in new silk. Squeeze out with the

hands, 'ay smoothly between the folds of a

towel, and pass it tlirough the wringing machine.

Shake out and wrap again in a dry towel, and

allow it to remain a few hours, if possible, before

ironing. To iron the slip commence with the

sleeves, ironing these on a sleeve-board if possible,

but if this is not available iron first the upper

and then the under half of the sleeve, then well

up into the drawings at the top and at the wrist

if tjiere are any. If the sleeve is gathered or

pleated, a Uttle management with the point of

the iron will be required to prevent its being

creased. It is somewhat difficult to give definite

instructions, as shapes and styles vary so much.

The easiest way must always be taken, and that

which crushes the material least.

Next iron the bodice part. Place the neck

at the left-hand side and commence with the

piece lying nearest the edge of the table, and

work gradually along until the other side is

reached. Iron up into any gathers with the

point of the iron, and smooth well round the

armhole. If the silk becomes dry damp it over

with a wet rubber, but do not sprinkle it. When

the silk part is finished, press out any lace or

embroidery on the wrong side and iron any

tapes. If there are any lace frills these may be

goffered (see p. 284). Then dry the silk sUp

thoroughly before laying it away.

Washing of Prints. - When prints are being

washed for the first time, and there is danger of

the coloiu" running, it is well to soak them in

cold water with salt in it beforehand. Allow a

handful of salt to one gallon of water. Wash them

in tepid water, making a lather with boiled soap

the same as for flannels. In fact, the water in

which flannels have been washed, if it continues

clean enough, will be suitable for the washing of

prints and coloured things. Give them at least

two soapy waters, squeezing and rubbing them

gently with the hands until they are quite clean.

Pay particular attention to the most soiled parts.

If there is the least fear of the colour running,

do not rub soap on them. After they have been

washed several times, and when the colour is

ascertained to be fast, the prints may be washed

by the ordinary method for white cotton

articles. Some prints ■"'ill even stand boihng,

but do not attempt this unless it is quite certain

there is no danger of their colour being destroj'ed.

When clean, rinse the prints, first in tepid water

and then in plenty of clear cold water. Add salt

or ammonia, one table -spoonful to a gallon, to the

last rinsing water when the colours are not fast.

Vinegar is good for restoring blues, and ox -gall

for dark colours. The strength of the colour

depends very much upon the quahty of the

material. If the coloiu-s have been properly

mixed before being used for printing, they will

stand soap and water perfectly ; if not, careful

washing will not prevent theni fading. When

water becomes tinged with the colour of the

material that has been weished in it, it must be

poured away at once and not used for anything

else. Goods of different colours wluch are not

fast must be washed separately. After rinsing,

wring them out, fold evenly, and pass them once

or twice through the wringing machine. In all

cases, when washing coloured articles, avoid the

use of soda and washing powders.

Starcliing and Ironing. - ^^^^en coloured things

are only \vished sUghtly stiff, they should be

294

THE WOIVIAN'S BOOK

put through thin clear starch while they are

still wet. Wring them again after starching,

and then either roll up in a towel and let them

he some time before ironing, or hang them up to

dry shghtly. If wished very stiff, let them dry

first, and then starch. Do not use the starch

too hot or it will destroy the colours, and when

ironing them do not use the iron too hot for the

same reason.

Iron on the right side, except in cases where the

pattern is raised or dull and a gloss would be

imsuitable. ^^^aen ironing any fancy article

with sewed work, press out the sewed part on

the wrong side over flannel.

How to Starch and Iron a Cotton Petticoat. - It

is not necessary to starch the whole of the

garment. It will generally be found sufficient

if it is just starched about a quarter of a yard up

from the foot, or to the top of any tucks or

embroidery. The starclung may be done before

the petticoat is hung up to dry. Have a basin

of clear starch, not very tliick ; dip the foot of

the petticoat into tliis, squeeze the starch well

through it, and then pass it once or twice tlirough

the wringing macliine. In wringing put the

band end through first.

Or the petticoat may be starched dry. Sprinkle

it well with water down as far as the tucks or frills,

and then dip the foot part into the stau-ch in the

same way as before. The petticoat being dry,

the starch will not require to be q\iite so stiff.

After starching and wringing, roll the petticoat

up tightly with the starched part inside, and let

it lie rolled up in a towel for some time before

ironing. If the petticoat is made of rather

thick material, it will be as well to hang it up

to dry slightly before commencing to iron it.

To iron a petticoat or skirt of any kind well

it is necessary to have a skirt-board. It will not

only be better, but much more quickly done.

Have the narrow end of the skirt-board at your

left-hand side, and place it in a good hght.

Cover it with a small sheet kept for the purpose,

and pin the sheet tightly underneath, so that

there is no fear of it wrinkhng up. If there is

embroidery on the petticoat, put it on the board

with the wrong side out to begin with, and the

band of the petticoat towards the narrow end of

the board. Iron the embroidery first, pressing

it well out so as to raise the pattern. If there

are two or more embroidered frills, commence

with the lowest one ; iron it first, then turn it

back, and iron the second one, and so on.

When the embroidery is finished, turn the petti-

coat on the right side. If there are frills on it,

iron the plain piece under the frills first, then the

frills themselves, except when they are made of

embroidery, when they already have been ironed.

Iron the plain top part of the petticoat last ;

let it be pretty damp, and iron it firmly, so as

to get it smooth and glossy. If it has become in

the least dry, damp it down with a wet rubber,

or it will have a rough appearance when finished.

If there are full frills, goffer them before taking

the petticoat off the board. If there is more

than one, goffer the top one first, and then the

lower. When finished, remove the petticoat

from the board, iron the waist -band on both

sides and the strings, fold the petticoat neatly

and hang it up to air.

A Princess Petticoat. - Iron the bodice part of

the petticoat as a slip-bodice before putting it

on the board ; then proceed as above.

A Dress Bodice. - This should not be starched

too stiffly or it will be uncomfortable to wear.

It is therefore better to starch it when wet, and

then wring it well. If very tliick, hang it up to

dry shghtly before ironing. If it is made of

tliin material, merely roll it up in a towel, and

let it he for a short tune.

To iron, commence with the Unings - first the

neckband, then the sleeves, and lastlj^ the bodice.

\Vlien ironing the hning of the bodice keep

the neck at the left-hand side ; commence

with the part nearest the edge of the table.

When that is ironed, go on to the next piece,

and so on until the other side is reached. Do

not iron the Unings too dry or it will be difficult

to get the right side smooth afterwards. Iron

all seams out flat. Do the right side of the

bodice in the same order, trying to make each

piece perfectly smooth. A sleeve-board may

be found useful when ironing the sleeves. If

there is any lace, iron it before beginning the

right side of the bodice. Leave any goffering

that is required till the end. Iron round the

seam at the armhole to make it soft and com-

fortable for the arm. Air well, and fold as little

as possible.

Holland. - Wash in the same way as white

cotton articles. A httle tea may be added to

the last rinsing water to preserve the colour.

Or rinse in water in wliich a little hay has been

boiled. After wringing finish off in the same

way as prints.

Chintz. - First shake the cliintzes, or brush

thein with a soft brush, to remove all surface dust.

Then soak them in a plentiful supply of cold water

overnight. If they are very dusty it is a good

plan to change the water once or twice during

tliis time. Then wring out and proceed with

the washing. Although the colours in chintzes,

and especially the better ones, are almost invari-

ably fast, it is wise to take every precaution

against their running the first time they are

washed. Wash chintzes in the same way as

prints, punching and pounding them well in the

soapy water. A little liquid ammonia may be

added to the water if it requires softening. A

second soapy water will generally be found

necessary, and the process of squeezing and

pounding should be repeated. When the

cliintzes appear to be quite clean, rinse them well

in plenty of warm water, and then in cold water

until it is free from soap. Then wring tightly,

and next put them through rather thick starch.

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

295

and hang outside to dry. When quite dry,

starch a second time in hot-water starch, pound-

ing and squeezing the starch well into the

material. Pass tlirough the wringer once or

twice, then shake out and hang up indoors until

dry enough for ironing. Take them down, and

roll up in a cloth until they can be ironed. Or if

there are straight pieces of material, these may

be mangled first. Iron with hot and heavy irons,

finishing off with the polishing iron. Each iron

should be well rubbed on a little bees' -wax before

it is used, as this will make it iron smoothly and

help to give a gloss to the chintz. Finish off

with the polishing iron (see p. 300) if a very high

gloss is desired.

Note. - Instead of starch, size is sometimes

used for the stiffening of chintz. Take a penny

packet of size and dissolve it in half a gallon of

boiling water. When lukewaqn put in the chintz

and let it soak one hour. Then wring out and

hang up until sufficiently dry to iron.

TO WASH GLOVES

Cotton Gloves. - If very much soiled rub them

with soap and let them soak in tepid water for

several hours. Paraffin soap is good, especially

if the gloves are soiled. Then rub well and

squeeze out the dirty water. Wash again with

hot water and soap until perfectly clean. Pay

particular attention to the most soiled parts.

It is sometimes a good plan to put them on the

hands and brush them \vith a nail brush. Rinse

in tepid water and then in cold, adding a httle

blue to the cold water for white gloves. Wring

out and hang up to diy. They may be pressed

with a moderately hot iron when nearly dry.

Silk Gloves. - Wash these in the sanae way as

other silk articles - ^rinse and hang up to dry.

When nearly drj' press with an iron.

Chamois Leather and Doe-skin Gloves. - Wash

and dry according to directions given for chamois

leather (p. 289). Rub occasionally whilst dry-

ing and pull them into shape. The best way

to dry them is to put them on wooden hands

sold for the purpose.

Woollen Gloves. - Wash and dry in the same

way as other woollen articles. Pull them out

well whilst drying or put them on wooden hands.

COLLARS, CUFFS, AND SHIRTS

Importance of having them well Washed. - The

above should be washed according to general

direotioi^s already given (p. 278), and dried

thorougiily. It cannot be too strongly im-

pressed that unless the process of wasliing is well

carried out, no amount of care in the starching

and ironing will make the articles look well. It

is a good plan when washing to give the articles

a good brushing on the washing-board. Collars

especially are so liable to be stained with the

heat of the neck that, u:iles3 they are thoroughly

washed and rinsed, when they reach the stage

of being ironed the iron will only show up the

faulty work. A httle extra trouble taken in

the washing wiU save much future disappoint-

ment. Then again care must be taken in the

drying. Dry in a clean place and dry thoroughly,

or they will not take in the starch properly, and

will be limp when finished.

All articles which are wanted very stiff should

be starched in cold-water starch.

How to Starch Collars and Cuffs. - Before

commencing the process have everytliing at

hand that is likely to be required - a basin of

cold water, a basin of cold-water starch (see p.

281), a plate, one or two clean towels, and a

piece of clean soft rag to use as a rubber.

Mix the starch well up from the foot of the

basin ; put into it several of the collars and cuffs,

or as many as the starch will cover easily at one

time, and let the starch soak well through them.

Squeeze them with the hands in the starch, and

then wring as dry as possible and lay them on

the plate, and do the others in the same way.

Tliey must not be put through the wringing

macliine, or too much of the starch would be

taken out.

Take a collar or cuff at a time ; rub it between

the hands to get the starch well through the

different folds of hnen, draw out straight, and

lay smoothly on the towel. Commence a few

inches from the top of the towel, so that there

is a dry piece to double over. Then proceed

with the others in the same way ; lay them

close together on the towel, but do not put one

on the top of the other.

Do not use the starch when it gets very

low in the basin, but always have a plenti-

ful supply to work with, so that it may not

cake on the articles. When all ai'e starched,

put the basins of starch and water out of your

way, and spread out the towel on the table to be

ready for the collars and cuffs.

Roll up tightly and beat the bundle between

the hands so as to bring the different folds of

material together, and lay aside for an laour at

least before ironing.

Method of Ironing Cufls. - To carry out tliis

process successfully it is absolutelj^ necessary to

have first a really hot iron and one which has

been well dusted, the sides and top as well as the

bottom, and then rubbed on a httle bees' -wax

or candle-end to make it run smoothly ; and,

secondly, a smoothly covered ironing table or

ironing board without any objectionable \\Tinkles.

Do not take out more than one cuff" or collar

from the towel at one time, and keep the others

well covered. If they get dry, they will not iron

properly, and it is impossible to damp them

over, as it would take out too much of the starch.

Spread the cuff out on the table with the wrong

side uppermost, and smooth away all wrinkles

with a paper-knife. If there is any extra fulness

on the wrong side, push it over to tlio edges.

296

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

where it will not be seen. Iron once or twice

across on the wrong side until slightly dry,

then turn to the right. See thet it is quite

smooth before putting the iron down on it ; iron

it well, and then go back again to the wrong side.

Iron slowly at first, until the cuff gets pretty

dry and smooth ; then iron more and more

quickly backwards and forwards, until the cuff

is quite dry and the surface glossy. Iron prin-

cipally on the right side, as it is there that the

most gloss is wished, but iron the wrong side

smooth enough to prevent it feeling rough to

the skin. Lift the cuff occasionally when iron-

ing to let the steam escape, and dry the sheet

underneath it with the iron before laying it

down again.

When several cuffs have thus been ironed,

they may be poUshed with the poUshing iron

(see p. 292), or if not, rounded into shape ^v-ith

the iron and placed negu" the fire to become

thoroughly crisp and dry.

Collars. - These are ironed in very much the

same way as cuffs, first on the wrong and then

on the right side. When there are points to be

turned down, be careful to iron them most on the

WTong side of the collar, as that will be the side

which will show most. When tvirning them

down, make a mark first vnth the side of the

iron, on the right side of the collar, then press

down with the fingers. Do not iron down with

the iron, as it is apt to cut the linen. Then turn

the collar. When the whole collar is turned

over, be careful to notice which is the right side

before beginning to iron. Lift up any tabs there

may be on the collars ; dry luiderneath them

with the iron, and then iron down again.

Eton Collars. - Iron the band first, stretch it

well, and iron on both sides until dry, being

careful not to iron the collar itself so eis to dry it.

Then stand the band up, and make the collar lie

flat on the table. Iron round it slowly - first on

the wrong side, keeping the band well stretched

to prevent any creases where they are joined.

Do not iron too long on the wrong side, or the

right wiU become so dry that it will bo impossible

to iron it smoothly. Turn and iron the right

side until dry ; smooth and then turn with the

fingers.

A Front. - Iron the neckband first on both sides

until dry, or if there is a collar attached, finish

it off before commencing the front. Iron the

front on the right side only, and it is not necessary

to iron the wrong ; and if there is any fulness,

smooth it away towards the sides before com-

mencing to iron. Stretch the neckband well

when ironing towards the neck to prevent

ertases. Then work the iron quickly up and

down the front to get a good gloss. (For

Polishing of Collars, &c., see p. 292.)

A Gentleman's White Shirt. - Have the shirt

perfectly dry, and keep it on the wrong side until

it is about to be ironed. Commence with the

cuffs ; place them evenly together, and gather

them up in the left hand. With the right hand

wet the cotton part just above the cuffs with

cold water, as this will prevent the starch from

spreading up the sleeve where it is not required.

Then dip the cuffs into the starch, and squeeze

the starch well through them. Starch right up

to the top of the cuffs, but do not let the starch

go any further. Wring out tightly, and rub

with the hands in the same -n ay as other cuffs.

Next starch the front. Place the two halves of

it evenly together, and gather them up in the

hands, commencing at the back of the neckband,

and gathering down to the foot of the front.

Wet carefully down the side of the front to

prevent the starch spreading on to the body of

the shirt, at the same time being careful that

no drops of water fall on tlie front itself, which

might cause blisters when ironing. Tlien dip

the fronts and neckband into the starch and

squeeze the starch well into them. A mere

dip in and out again is not sufficient ; the starch

must be forced tlirough the different layers of

Unen. Wring out and rub between the hands.

After starching spread the sliirt on the table with

the front uppermost and the neck nearest the

edge of the table. Smooth out the front and

give it a light rub over with a clean dry cloth or

rubber. Fold it double, the neck towards thn

bottom of the sliirt. Place the sleeves across

the back, Bmoothing out the cuffs, and double the

shirt again so that the sleeves are inside. As it

is now folded, sprinkle it well with water on both

sides, roll tightly up from one end to the other,

and keep covered over until it has to be ironed.

A shirt should lie for an hour at least before

being ironed, but must not be allowed to become

too dry.

To Iron a Shirt. - First turn the shirt on to the

right side, and place it on the table with the

front uppermost and the neck towards the edge

of the table. Turn the yoke forwards, so that it

lies flat on the top of the back of the shirt, and

iron the yoke first on the right side, then turn

it back, slip the iron inside, and iron it on the

wrong. Next iron the neckband, first on the

wrong and then on the right, ironing it until

quite dry. Finish it off well, particularly at the

button-holes, and be careful not to iron down

on to the front of the shirt. When these are

done, fold the shirt down the centre of the

back, keeping the front apart from it. Iron the

back on both sides, always keeping the neck at

the left-hand side. Open out, so that the whole

of the back lies uppermost on the table, and

iron round the back of the armholes, and this

finishes the back.

Next fold the shirt double lengthways with the

front inside to prevent its becoming dry, and place

it on the table with the sleeves lying out to right.

Throw back the upper sleeve, and commence

with the under one. Iron the cuff first on the

wrong and then on the right, in the same way

as other cuffs, then run the iron up inside the

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

297

cuff and iron the thick part over the drawings.

Iron also the ■svrong side of the hems at the

opening of the sleeve, and turn the cuffs into

shape. Smooth out the sleeve, and iron first

on one side, ironing well into pleats or gathers

at the top and bottom, and put a pleat into the

sleeve itself if necessary. Tiarn down the shirt

at the neck so that the other side of the sleeve

can be ironed, but do not change the position of

the shirt itself.

Then iron the second sleeve in exactly the

sanme manner, the ironed sleeve being turned

back and underneath the shirt out of the way.

When both are finished, place the shirt on the

table with the front uppermost and the neck at

yoiir left-hand side. Arrange the back in pleats,

and press them down with the iron. Then iron

the breast of the shirt ; slip a shirt-board up in

between the back and the front, without dis-

arranging the pleats down the back. Stretch

the upper half of the breast on to the board first,

drawing the other half as much out ot the way

as possible. Tuck the cotton part of the front

underneath the board, so as to keep the breast

firm. Smooth away all wrinkles on the breast

with a paper-knife, pusliing any fulness over

towards the sides. Hold the neck firmly with

the left hand iron slowly up the centre, then

gradually towards the sides. As it becomes

smooth, iron up and down more quickly, lifting

the breast occasionally to let the steam escape.

Keep stretching it well with the left hand to

prevent any wrinkles forming round the collar.

Do the other side in the same way, and then hold

both firmly together, and iron quickl;^ and fiunly

up and down the breast to get a good gloss.

When the breast is finished, slip out the

shirt-board and arrange the cotton part of the

front smoothly on the top of the back, putting

a pleat down the centre where required. Damp

it over if it has become dry, and then iron it

smoothly. If the shirt has to be polished with

the polishing iron, do so now ; but if not, fold it.

To Fold a Shirt. - First put a pin in the neck

to keep the two sides together, then tvirn it over

so that the back is uppermost and the neck at

the left-hand side. Turn the sleeves down the

sides of the back (Fig. a), noticing that both are

turned in from exactly the same place on both

sides. Turn over them a small piece from the

sides by dotted hne 1 (Fig. o) ; then turn over

again from dotted line 2 (Fig. a), so that both

sides meet down the centre of the back. Stretch

them rather tightly, so that the front will have

a curved look, and pin them firmly together

(Fig. b). Hang up to air, and then fold so that

the front only shows (Fig. c).

A Lady's Shirt. - After it is rinsed put it

through rather thin clear starch and hang it

up to dry. This gives a slight stiffness to the

body part of the sMrt. When quite dry starch

the cuffs and collar in cold-water starch, being

careful to wet previously just above the

cuffs and below the collar with cold water

to prevent these parts becoming stiff with

the starch. If there is a plain band down

the front, and this is Hked stiff, dip it also

in the cold-water starch. Rub the starch

well in and then smooth the parts over

with a clean rubber. Sprinkle the dry

parts of the shirt with cold water and roll

up tightly. Let it lie for an hour or two

at least before ironing.

To iron the sliirt, open it out and turn

it on the right side. Commence with the

collar, stretch it out, and iron first on the

wrong and then on the right side. Next

iron the yoke on both sides and then

proceed to the sleeves. Iron these in the

same way as the sleeves of a gentleman's

shirt, or slip them on to a sleeve-board.

Use a small iron for running up into the

gathers at the top, and try to avoid creases. To

iron the bodice place the shirt on the table with

the neck at the left-hand side. Commence with

the front lying nearest the edge of the table,

smooth it out and iron it well. Next iron the

back and then the other front. Finish off by

ironing the parts round the armholes, also the

hems on the wrong sides and any strings. The

cuffs may now be polished if wished, then turn

them into shape and hang the shirt up to air.

To Fold the Shirt. - First pin the two sides

together at the neck, and pleat the front if

desired. Then lay the sleeves down the sides

of the back the same as in a gentleman's sliirt

(Fig. a) ; fold them upwards again so that the

cuffs show above the neck, and pin them into

position. Fold over the sides so that they meet

down the centre, and pin them together. Fold

quite loosely ; any pressing would crush the

sleeves.

INFANTS' AND CHILDREN'S CLOTHING

Preliminary. - In washing infants' clothing it is

always better to keep the articles separate, and

298

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

not to mix them with other clothes. Special

attenyon must be given to them, and in dressing

they require very dainty handhng.

The water used in washing must be changed

as soon as it becomes in the least degree dirty.

Neither soda nor wasliing powders must on any

account be used, as they are irritating to the

skin.

Baby's Robes and Robe Skirts. - If time permits,

allow these to soak for an liour or two in tepid

water before washing. When about to wash,

wring them out of tlie soaking water, and wash

in water as hot as the hand can bear. It is best

to wash these carefully with the hands. Being

fine, they will not bear being rubbed on a board

or with a brush. Rub soap on them, and pay

particular attention to the most soiled parts.

If the material is fine, use melted soap (see p.

287). Go methodically over every part ; wash

first on one side and then on the other, and give

them a second soapy water if they are not clean

after the first. Then boil if necessary, and

afterwards rinse, blue, and wring (see p. 278).

Give them throughout very careful treatment,

as the least unnecessary strain is apt to tear

them or cause holes.

After wTinging, put through the thinnest pos-

sible starch and wring again. Tlien dry partially,

roll up in a towel, and let them he a short time

before ironing, but not long enough to become

dry.

To iron a robe skirt cover a skirt-board with

a fine sheet, and put the skirt on it with the

wrong side out. Iron any lace round the foot

and embroidery on this side, pressing it well with

the iron to make the pattern stand out. Then

turn, and iron the rest of it on the right side. If

any of the muslin part has been dried with the

ironing on the wrong side, damp it down before

ironing it on the right. If there are any tucks,

iron them first, stretching them out well before

ironing, and getting them quite free from creases.

Iron the plain part of the skirt from the bottom

upwards, and keep drawing it towards you as you

go along. Do not let it stick to the ironing-

sheet, but keep lifting it up from time to time.

Should it get dry before the ironing is finished,

wet the end of a towel and damp the muslin over

lightly with it. The muslin must on no acf;ount

be ironed dry, or it will have a rough appearance,

instead of looking smooth and glossy.

The skirt of a robe is ironed in the same way.

Iron the embroidery on the front of the bodice

before turning the robe on to the right side.

After turning, finish the skirt of the robe before

doing the bodice. If the bodice has become dry,

damp it down before ironing. Iron as much

of it as possible on the board, using a small iron

so £is to get into the corners well. Any frills

that cannot be done on the board may be left

until the robe is taken off. The embroidered

flaps or side-pieces on the front of some robes are

better left until the end and ironed off the

board, the mushn part of them on the right

side, and the embroidery on the wrong. Do

the sleeves whichever way is found easiest.

Sometimes they are wide enough to allow of the

iron being slipped inside them, or they may be

managed more easily by putting a roll of flannel

inside and ironing over that. Goffer or crimp

any frills that require it ; iron out any strings,

and then air well.

A Piquee Pelisse. - Wash according to general

directions (see p. 278), and starch while wet in

tliin hot-water starch. Allow it to dry sUghtly

before ironing.

Iron all embroidery first on the wrong side,

over flannel, until it is qviite dry. The piquee

itself must be ironed on the right side to give it

a gloss. Commence with the cape, iron it from

one end to the other, and have the coat part of

the pelisse turned back from under it so that

the cape itself Ues single on the table. Then

iron the sleeves - ^lay out one at a time smoothly

on the table, and iron first the upper and then

the under part. Then lay the pelisse on the

table with the neck at your left-hand side, tiu"n

the cape back, and iron the coat itself. Iron

the piece nearest to you first, smooth out each

piece as you go along, always keeping it lying

the one way, and draw the coat towards you as

you get it ironed. Press well with the iron to

get a gloss. Double by the shoulders and sides,

and finish off round the armholes ; also iron the

hems on the wrong side. Then finish by goffer-

ing any trimming that requires it ; air well, and

fold loosely.

Stays. - When washing these, place them on

the washing -board and use a brush to brush

them with. Being made of firm material, they

will bear a good rubbing. Boil them if necessary,

and after rinsing put them tlii'ough thin hot-

water starch. On no account make them stiff.

Allow them to dry slightly, and iron first on

one side and then on the other until quite dry.

Stretch well while ironing, as the quilting is

inclined to pucker. Hang up in a warm place

to air before laying away.

Pinafores. - Those should always be slightly

starched ; if left quite limp they will not keep

their appearance any time, and will very soon

soil. Muslin pinafores should be put through

stiffor starch than those made of diaper and

other fancy white material, and must always bo

starched wet. Diaper and other kinds of pina-

fores may be starched either wet or dry, and

the starch should be quite thin. Pinafores

made of muslin and other thin material should

be wrung well and rolled in a towel for some

time before ironing. Those made of tliicker

material may be slightly dried and then rolled

up.

When ironing pinafores always commence

with the embroidery, pulling it out well and

ironing very carefully. The rest of the pinafore

is as a rule very simple to iron. Always keep

GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK

299

the top of the pinafore at the left-hand side, and

iron the material single when possible. If the

pinafore is joined up the back, iron it double -

first the front and then the back, or iron it on a

skirt-board. If there are tucks along the foot

of the pinafore, stretch them out well when

ironing to prevent them dragging. Iron as

much as possible with the thread of the material.

A small iron must be used for getting into all

gathers. Always finish off well round arm-

holes and iron out all strings, and run round

hems on the wrong side. If there is a full drawn

front on the pinafore it sometimes looks well

crimped. Goffer or crimp all frills that require

it, and fold neatly.

Knickerbockers. - After washing these, wring

and let them dry slightly before ironing. On

no account must the frills be starched, as the

stiffness would irritate the tender skin of young

childi'en. Iron the frills first, then the waist-

band on boih sides. Keep the waist at the left-

hand side when ironing the legs, and iron first

the front and then the back of them. Iron

whichever way crushes them least. There is

such a variety of shapes that it is difficult to

give definite rules. Iron well into gathers, and

hems on the wrong side. Crimp the frills, and

then fold neatly.

Flannel Binders, Pilches, and Barracoats. - Wash

and dry these according to general directions

given for washing and drying flannels (p. 287).

They should, when possible, be dried in the

open air ; it gives them a sweeter and fresher

smell. When nearly dry, iron them all over

with a cool iron to make them smooth and

soft. Iron all strings and bindings, and be

most particular to air well.

Knitted Socks and Bootees. - Wash these care-

fully in a lather of warm water and boiled soap,

and rinse in warm water (see p. 287). If wliite,

a little blue should be added to the last rinsing

water. Pay great attention to the drying of

these, as they are Uable to shrink. Wooden

blocks of different sizes are to be had for stretch-

ing them ; they are put on to these while still

wet, and allowed to remain until dry. A

simpler block may be cut out of a piece of card-

board the exact size and shape reqviired, and

in some ways this is even better than wood, as

in this case pins can be put through the cardboard

and the sock stretched in length as well as

breadth. Failing to get either of these, pin

the socks out to their proper shape on a

covered table or board.

Knitted Jackets and Drawers. - For the washing

of these, see p. 287. When drying them, see

that they are pulled out to a proper shape before

hanging up. If they are not very thick, it is

almost better to pin them out on a covered table

or floor, and allow them to remain there until dry.

Wincey and Serge Dresses. - These are both

washed in the same way. Shake well before

washing to free tliem from all superfluous dust.

Soak them in warm water with a Uttle ammonia,

and let them remkin from twenty to thirty

minutes. This softens them and makes them

easier to wash. Wring them out and wash in

the same way as flannels (see p. 287). Pay

particular attention to the most soiled parts.

Rinse thoroughly, adding a httle blue to the

last rinsing water for white or blue serge. Hang

up to dry with the wrong side out, and if drying

indoors turn and shake occasionally during the

process. When nearly dry, iron with a cool

iron. Wincey especially requires a good deal

of pressure bestowed on it. Navy blue serge

should be ironed on the \\Tong side only ; it

would not look well to glaze it.

Smocks. - Smocking must never be pressed

with the iron, but only steamed. Iron the rest

of the garment first, leaving the smocking to do

last. It takes two people to steam it. Let a

moderately hot iron be held with the bottom

upwards by one, while a second holds the smock-

ing firmly on the top of it, and dj-aws it slowly

over the surface of the iron until it becomes

quite dry. The heading round the top of the

smocking should be ironed with a small iron,

and if it is a starched material, afterwards

goffered.

Boys' Sailor Suits. - These require very careful

washing. They are as a rule made of drill or

jean, materials which are both very hard to wash.

Being of a fu-m texture, they will stand a good

deal of rubbing and a brush on the wasliing-

board. They may be boiled after wasliing if

there is no fear of any colour in them running.

After rinsing, starch wliile still wet. The starch

must not be stiff, as the material itself is of

a stiff nature. Wring well, and dry sUghtly

before ironing. Be careful to choose a very

clean place for drying, and dry with the wrong

side out.

To iron the trousers turn them on the right

side, smooth them out on the table, with the

waist at your left-hand side and the fi'ont upper-

most. Iron the fronts of the two legs first, but

not too di'y ; turn over and iron the back, then

iron over the fronts again. Iron bands and

hems on the wrong side, and press hard with the

iron to get a good gloss.

In ironing the jacket, commence with the

collar, and if this is of navy blue or scarlet, iron

it on the wrong side only, or on the right w4th

sometliing laid over it ; it should not be glossed.

Next iron the sleeves on the right side, first the

upper and then the under half. In doing the

jacket itself, keep the neck at the left-hand side,

commence with the piece nearest to j'ou, and

iron from one end to the other, smoothing out

each piece as it is reached. Then finish off at

the shoulders, round armholes, and the inside

of the jacket. Blue hnen suits must not be

polished with the iron, but either ironed entirely

on the wrong side or ironed with sometliing over

the material.

300

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

SUk Dresses, Pinafores, and Veils. - For the

washing of these, see p. 292. After a silk dress

is wrung, starch any lace there may be on it in

very thin starch, and hang it up to dry for a

short time. Iron the lace first on the wrong

side, then any linings or double parts on the

wrong side. Next iron the sleeves with a small

iron, first the upper and then the under part,

ironing well into the gathers. If the dress is

smocked, leave tlio smocking to the last (see p.

299). If there is a bodice, iron it before doing the

skirt. Do the skirt either on the sldrt-board or

by lajnng it double on the table, and ironing first

the front and then the back. If the silk is \ery

wet in parts, iron with something over it to begin

with, to prevent the iron sticking to and scorch-

ing it. When the silk is embroidered, press out

the embroidery on the wrong side after the silk

is ironed. It is not necessary to gofTer the lace

on a silk dress, as it looks better falling softly.

Goffering would be out of place unless merely

for a narrow frilling on the neck.

Silk Pinafores are ironed in the same way as

others (see p. 298). The lace on them may be

slightly starched, but do not goffer it.

Silk Veils should be pinned out on a covered

table or board wliile still wet, and allowed to

remain until dry. If they feel in the least

degree stifl after they are removed, rub gently

with the fingers to soften the silk again.

Blankets. - These being small may be washed

in the same way as white flannels (see p. 287).

Dry in the open air if possible, and then air before

the fire.

POLISHING

When about to polish, have ready at hand a

polishing board, a basin of cold water, a piece of

soft rag, and a well-heated polishing iron. Let

everything be particularly clean and free from

dust.

To polish cuffs, take one at a time ; place it

flat on the polishing board, dip the clean rag into

the cold water, and then lightly wet the sui-face

of the cuff. On no account must it be made too

wet, or it will be apt to blister ; and bo careful

that no drops of water fall on it. Hold the cuff

in position with the left hand, and run the

poUshing iron up and down it with the right.

There are different kinds of polisliing irons ;

the one like diagram on p. 274 is to be recom-

mended. It is of a good weight, and has a

rounded surface at the one end only. The

opposite end is held up while in use, and the iron

is swung backwards and forwards from the WTist,

the rounded sm-face doing the pohshing. Other

kinds are to be had which are held flat while in

use, and are worked quickly backwards and

forwards on the surface to be polished.

Polishing at first gives the linen a streaky

appearance, but it must be continued until the

surface is evenly glossed all over. The iron must

be changed when it cools. When all the cuffs

are polished, turn them into shape. Pohsh

collars in the same way, only be particular that

you polish the proper side of those that are

turned down, or have turned-down points. In

polisliing a shirt, slip up the polishing board

without crushing either the front or the back.

Polish the breast first, working the iron up and

down the length of it, and not across. In all

cases remember to wet the surface slightly

before polishing. When the breast is finished,

draw the board gently out, lay it across the shirt,

place the cuffs on it, and polish them. Turn the

cuffs into shape, and fold the shirt (see p. 297).

Different kinds of glazes are to be had for

polishing linen, which are \ised instead of the

polishing iron. They do not of course give such

a high gloss, but by many people are preferred.

Directions for using them are generally given

with the different kinds. Some are added to the

starch, while others are in a liquid form and are

rubbed on the surface of the linen when ironing.

Polishing irons should be treated with great

care. Their surface is made of polished steel,

and if it once gets roughened it will not dn such

good work.

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

Without indulging in an inordinate passion for dress, which is hkely to result in unjustifiable ex-

travagance beyond her means, it is the duty of every woman to dress suitably and well, according to

her position in Ufe. Appearances count for a great deal in all phases of society, and in the matter

of dress, as much as in anything else, appearances must be studied. The question of lack of means

is often put forward as an excuse for general untidiness, dowdiness, and want of taste, but no woman,

however limited her pm'se, need degenerate into what is contemptuously termed a " dowd." True,

it is necessary to " cut one's coat according to one's cloth," and it needs not a httle pinching and

contriving in some cases to be able to do this successfully, but the result will always be found to be

well worth the trouble taken in achieving it. In addition to the first and all-important question of

good taste, such tilings as durability, general utility, and style have to be considered, and last but

not least, the best way to take care of clothes in order to preserve as long as possible their pristine

freshness. All these important phases of the dress question are fully dealt with in this chapter in a

manner wliich it is hoped will be especially useful to those women for whom ways and means are all-

important considerations.

The Art of Dressing Well. - Dress is an invalu-

able aid to good looks, yet, strange as it may

seem, comparatively few women have acquired

the art of dressing well. The reason for this

is not hard to seek. If fashion sets the seal of

her approval upon some particular style, every

woman rushes bUndly in its wake. No matter if

the stylo be one that is only suitable for the tall

and the slender, it is ei .braced indiscriminately

by the short and the stout, whilst, with a hopeless

lack of the sense of what is fitting, the portly

dowager of fifty wiU be seen to deck herself in a

mode only becoming to a young girl of eighteen.

There are some women who dress well in-

stinctively. These realise that careful dressing

can do a great deal towards enhancing their

good points ; wliilst bad dressing can materially

nullify any pretence to good looks they may

possess. To dress well is to dress becomingh'

and suitably. For instance, however pretty a

smart light silk gown may bo, it would look \m-

suitable in the street on a wet and muddy day.

However trim and well fitting a na\'y bhie tailor-

made suit, it would look woefully out of place

at a smart garden party. Elaborate silks and

laces are not the wear for the seaside be it said ;

whilst the rough-knitted jersey and very short-

pleated skirt and high boots of the Scotch

Highlands would present a most incongruous

appearance if worn out of doors in town. A

woman will exclaim, " \Vhat bad taste," if she

sees a man wearing brown calf boots with a tall

hat and frock suit, j-et the same woman may

think nothing of wearing a light flower-betrimmed

hat of the picture variety with a tweed coat

and skirt.

The Well-dressed Woman. - Suitability and

good taste should be the aim of all those who

■wish to acquire the art of dressing well. The

woman who dresses well plans her dress from the

point of view of her own indiv-iduahty. She no

more thinks of sla\Tishly following the dictates of

fashion than she thinks of absolutely ignoring

them. But she wisely adapts the fashion to

suit herself, and does not try to adapt herself

to suit the fashions. There is rarely a style

but can be adapted in some way or other to

suit individual needs. It is in rushing to the

extremes of fashion that the woman of the

present day more particularly errs.

How to avoid Dowdiness. - On the other hand,

the well-dressed woman does not allow her

appearance to become dowdy. If her purse is

Umited, she will adopt that style of dress that

does not date quickly in preference to the most

marked styles of the current season.

Simplicity should be the cliief characteristic

of the toilette of the woman of small means.

Chiffons, laces, and other such ephemeral fabrics

should be discarded for the more useful tailor

suit for everyday wear. She should always be

careful to avoid choosing very bright colours,

no matter how well they suit her. ^\^lcro a

woman who can only afford one now goN\Ti, for

instance, chooses a strawberry-coloured cloth -

it will look very well when it is new ; but her

friends in time will tire of seeing her in it. Con-

stant wear will emphasise the fact that she only

has one dress, and when this has to do duty, say,

for two or tlu-ee seasons, she runs the danger of

becoming known as " the woman in the straw-

berry-coloured dress." On the other hand.

301

302

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

navy blue, black and other dark materials, seldom

" date " a dress to the same extent as the

brighter colours. Black perhaps is par ex-

cellence the most economical w^ar. The black

costume may be varied with drossy blouses for

dressy occasions, simpler blouses for every-

day wear, whilst varying little touches in the

way of new ornamental buttons and different

trimmings do wonders towards renovating a

black indoor dress which has seen better days.

For evening wear black or white are the most

sensible colours for the woman who has but

one evening gown in her wardrobe. Such

colours as pink or blue are very pretty when

new, but constant wear of a coloured evening

dress serv-es decidedly to emphasise the limita-

tions of the wardrobe of its wearer.

Style and Colour. - Just as there are some

women who dress well by instinct, there are

others who seem to possess an instinct for

dressing badly. Tall thin women will appear

in gowns cUnging so tightly to their forms as

to accentuate their tliinness. In addition, the

ultra-tall woman will as often as not dress her

liair very high on the top of her head, and

weax hats remeirkable for the abnormal height

of their crowns. To make matters worse, the

trimming on her gown will run in straight lines

from almost the neck to the feet, and very

often also one or more of her tailor-made dresses

will be built of striped materials which will

serve to emphasise both her undue thinness and

her extreme height.

Short stout people, on the other hand, will

garb themselves in the brightest of colours. Their

gowns will as often as not be heavily trimmed,

the trimmings running horizontally across the

dress, ser\nng effectively to " cut the height "

of the wearer. Very often large patterned

materials and huge checks are worn, whilst

tailor-mades are liberally adorned with buttons

the size of half-crown pieces. It should be

remembered that all striped materials and the

trimmings laid lengthways on a dress add to

the height. They should therefore be avoided

by the ultra-tall women. On the other hand,

narrow stripes are becoming to the stout woman,

whilst checks and large -patterned materials add

to the breadth of her figure, and should there-

fore be avoided. A stout woman should never

wear white or other light colours ; these only

serve to accentuate her stoutness, whilst dark

materials tend to give her a much slimmer ap-

pearance. A style of dress at present in vogue

with a front panel running from neck to hem is

becoming to most stout figures, but the panel

roi,uires careful cutting. It should not be too

broad, and should be made to taper as narrowly

as possible at the waist-line. All unnecessary

fulness in the way of pleats at the hips should

be avoided ; at the same time the dress should

not be made to fit too closely to the figure. The

skirt should stand out well at the hem, the ful-

ness at the foot serving to make less prominent

the width of the hips.

A stout woman should never wear a very

short skirt. Hor walking-skirts should only just

clear the ground - if she attempts the very short

" trotteur " skirt, which is becoming to the

graceful figure and neat ankles of the young girl,

she will make herself appear even stouter than

she is. The skirt of the moment which clings

tightly round the feet at the hem is particularly

unbecoming to the stout woman. Her dress

should be plain and well cut. Gathers and

elaborate pleating should be avoided. On the

other hand, the extra fulness afforded by pleats

and gathers should always be made use of

wherever possible by the thin woman in the

plarming of her gowns. She should avoid all

severe harsh lines in dress, as these would only

serve to emphasise the angularity of her figure.

It may be said with truth that the very severe

tight-fitting gown should only be adopted by

women of perfect proportions.

Fashions within the last year seem to have

been designed only to suit the very slim ; the

fashionable figiu-e, in fact, at the time of writing

is slender, and many have been the devices

resorted to by possessors of plump figures to

acquire the fashionable contour. All sorts of new

corsets have been designed \¥ith the object of

aiding the fair wearers in this direction. Some

of these models have, in fact, been carried to

almost ridiculous extremes. In length they

reach almost to the knees, and one cannot help

wondering how the wearer can bend or even sit

down when encased in these latest outcomes of

fashion's vagaries.

The wise woman who is endowed with un-

fashionable plumpness does not seek to reduce it

in this manner. She chooses her corsets, indeed,

with the view of improving her figm-e, knowing

that there are many good makes of corset which

will achieve this result without imposing upon

her the penalty of general discomfort entailed by

the species above-mentioned, but she docs not

strive to appear in gowns which in design and

construction are only suitable for the schoolgirl.

She knows that gowns of the " Pensionnaire "

type are not for her, and adopts a style of dress

more suited to her figure in accordance with

the principles already laid down for her ob-

servance. La Mode of late seems to have

devoted herself entirely to the needs of the

jcune fille. A vogue for simplicity has come

upon us ; gowns are not only simple in design

and construction, but they are characterised by

that degree of extreme simplicity which, though

most becoming to sweet seventeen, is trying,

to say the least of it, to more mature forty.

The woman who has attained the latter age

must therefore refrain from adopting the exag-

geratedly 8irr>plo styles. Her dress may be

simple without being childishly so, and it is in

this respect that the greatest discrimination

DKESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

303

must be exercised. In all periods of history the

best-dressed women have been those who made

fashion walk hand in hand with common sense,

and to no period does this apply with greater

truth than to the present day.

Choice of Colour. - Many women are apt to

nullify the effect of a really smart dress by

selecting a colour which does not suit them.

A few general hints in regard to colour may

here be given. It may be taken as a general

rule that where the tints of the hair and

eyes are repeated in the costume, the effect

is on the whole successful. Thus blue-eyed

people rarely look so well as in the different

shades of blue, more especially the shade

that matches their eyes. A fair girl with a

delicate pink and wliite complexion looks well

in the various soft subd\ied tones of pink. The

choice of colours for the girl whose hair is of

the colom- of ripe corn, and whose complexion

is of a pink and white prettiness, is very varied ;

white, pale blue, pale pink, black, dark greens,

red, dark brown (where she has brown eyes), all

suit her well. The red or aubiu-n -haired woman

must be particularly careful in her choice of

colour, and her dress should not be so much

regulated by the colours themselves as by the

varying shades of the different coloiu"s. Green,

for instance, is considered an ideal colour for the

red-haired woman, but it must be either a very

dark green or a very faint delicate shade

bordering on the tint known as eau de nil.

Bright greens are altogether unsmtable. Brown

may be worn by the red-haired woman, more

especially if she has brown eyes. In other cases

it is not so successful, i.lthough it always serves

to bring out the pretty shades in her hair. The

fact remains, however, that a red-haired woman

to look her best in brown should have brown

eyes. Black velvet is pretty generally becoming

to the red and the auburn-haired, but the

ordinary dull black cloths prove trying, and

should be relieved by touches of white where

possible. A red-haired woman always looks

well, however, in a low - cut black evening

gown, the black serving to accentuate the wliite-

ness of her skin. Dark-haired women with

creamy or sallow complexions look their best in

bright colours such as bright reds, yellows for

evening, &c. When they wear dark dresses,

these should always be relieved by touches of

bright colour. Cream suits this style of com-

plexion better than white. Dark-haired women

with delicate fair sldns and pink and white com-

plexions, however, require softer and less decided

shades ; white, dove greys, delicate pinks,

heliotrope are eminently suited to tliis stj^le,

and if the eyes are violet, the shades of violet

and mauve are particularly becoming. Grey is

a colour wliich should be chosen with great dis-

crimination. It has a very hardening effect upon

the faces of people with very pallid complexions.

As a rule, light greys should bo relieved with

black or white. Certain soft shades of grey are

particularly becoming to elderly people. Youth

and age, it should be remembered, are not the

least important factors in deciding the colour

of a dress, and the sensible woman who is ad-

vancing towards middle age will not err in

affecting the style and colours which became her

in her youth.

Very often a colour which proves unsuitable if

worn as a whole dress will be perfectly becoming

if a touch of it only appears upon the dress.

For instance, though a girl with red hair should

not wear a whole pale blue dress, a tie, a waist-

belt, or a sash of pale blue upon a white dress

would suit her quite well. White frilling or lace

on the collar and cuffs of a dress is becoming to

almost every woman, though many could not

wear a whole white dress. On the other hand,

touches of bright colovu* on a dead white dress

serve to make it fitting wear for a sallow dark-

haired person who would look simply ghastly in

unrelieved white. It is in the satisfactory

blending of coloiirs, on the whole, that success

in dress may be achieved. The very texture

of the material itself should be studied. For

instance, for evening wear red-haired and pale

fair-haired women should wear the soft dull

materials such as cliiffons, ninons, net, soft silks,

voiles, &c., in preference to satin, which is too

hard for this type of prettiness, although it is

most becoming to youthful -looking fair girls

with very pink and white complexions and to

the dark-haired types. Wliere the complexion

is washed out, anaemic, or pallid, white satin

especially should be avoided.

OUT-DOOR COSTUMES

One thing to keep in mind in regard to tho

selection of an out-door costume is this : -

If the costume has to do duty for an extended

period, by all means let it be good in quahty.

It is better to pay a fair price for a " tailor-made "

at the start than to have a dress " run up " any-

how by some indifferent dressmaker on the

strictly economical plan. Tliis procedure nearly

always turns out false economy in the long-run -

what with the outlay upon maldng, material,

lining and extras, the cost of the di-ess amounts

to nearly the same as that of a tailor-made.

The cut is more often than not indifferent,

the fit unsatisfactory ; and, last but not least,

the costume in nine cases out of ten \\ill often

be altogether lacking in style. In many in-

stances the dress will prove such a faihu-e that

the unfortunate wearer in sheer desperation

will lay it aside, and, notwithstanding the fact

that she can ill afford it, will be induced to buy

a new gown by effecting some economy in

another direction. It is false economy, therefore,

to buy indifferent clothes at the outset. A

woman should always have one good costimie to

fall back upon. It is not alwaj-s necessary that

304

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

this should be made to measure. The cult of

the ready-made tailor gown has to-day reached

the level of a fine art. For the trifling sums

of from 5s. to 10s. 6d. these gowns are altered

by expert fitters to suit indi\'idual figiu-es. Of

course those with what is known as " stock

figures " will get the most satisfactory results,

as very often a ready-made gown will fit them

exactly without the sUghtest need for alteration.

These fortimute people have the best facilities

for practising economy in dress in that parti-

cular way. It is always ad\'isable to go to a

good class firm for costvmies of the kind. The

very cheap " ready mades " are bad investments.

Very good " tailor mades " may now be had for

three and a half to four guineas, but if tlie

costume is bought at sale time it may often be

had for much less.

SUMMER DRESSES AND THE HOME

DRESSMAKER

A woman who is an adept with her needle will

be able to eke out her dress allowance in a much

more satisfactory manner than her sister who is

less gifted in this way. Such a woman on a

dress allowance of £12 a year will be able to

dress much better than a woman whoso allowance

runs to more than double that amount. The

summer season in particular is a time of triumph

for the home dressmaker. Nothing can look

more suitable in the hot weather than dainty

linen, cotton, and muslin frocks. \Vlien it is

remembered that Unens and cottons may be had

for an outlay of a few pence a yard, it will be

seen that the cost of a gown made of these

materials will be very small. A dainty cotton

frock can be made for as small an outlay as 5s.

upon the material.

One material which has been much in vogue

of late years is particularly economical for

summer wear. It is known as " mercerised

lawn," and has the appearance of fine Indian

muslin, only with a softer and more cUnging

effect, and is to bo had in white and all the most

delicate shades. To crown its other advantages

it is of double width, and may be purchased for

from 6d. to Is. per yard. The material has the

additional advantage of washing particularly

well, having no tendency whatever to shrmk

in the wash. With the aid of a good paper

pattern, a very pretty dross, good enough for

any drossy occasion, can be fashioned out of

this material by the clever homo dressmaker at

a cost of from between six or seven shillings,

including trimmings, buttons, and other accos-

Borieq. If the home dressmaker, in addition to

being able to make herself dainty frocks of the

kind, is able to save washing bills by laundering

them herself at home, then she is fortunate

indeed, and she will always be able to hold her

own in the smartest company as a woman who

dresses prettily and well.

(For the making of dresses from paper pat-

terns, see Homo Dressmaking.)

(For washing cotton dresses at home, see

p. 293.)

EVENING DRESS

In selecting an evening dress due regard

must be paid to the occasion for which it is

required. A ball dress, for instance, would be

quite out of place if worn at a dinner-party or

at the theatre, whilst a dinner dress would

hardly be suitable at a ball. Yet many women

show a remarkable lack of teiste and discrimi-

nation in this direction. Dresses worn at big

balls and dances and receptions must neces-

sarily be more elaborate than those worn at

dinner-parties or at the theatre, excepting of

course where the dinner-party precedes some

large ball or some important reception.

Ball Gowns should always be of light and

deUcate colours, the soft, flimsy materiaLs such

as chiffon, ninon, and not being the prettiest

and the most graceful for those occasions. The

lighter and more ethereal -looking the fabric the

more successful will a ball dress be. The corsage

of a ball gown is of course cut low at the neck,

and the sleeves are usually quite short, some-

times mere straps or bands of the material or

its trimmings doing duty as such. The gloves

worn with these gowns are extremely long,

covering the whole of the arm ; and shoes and

stockings are worn to match. White is the

ideal colour for the ball dress of a young girl,

more especially where she is a debutante.

DeUcate shades of pink, pale blue, primrose,

eau de nil, pale green, are also effective. Orna-

ments of some kind are usually worn in the

hair. Dainty wreaths of flowers, choux or bands

of ribbon, in accordance with the fasliion of

the moment, being particularly suitable for the

wear of young women and girls ; jewelled combs,

sequin ornaments and jewellery being worn by

the elder women.

Sensible people have realised that long

trailing dresses are not conducive to the enjoy-

ment of dancing, hence for the moment fashion

has decreed that dance dresses should be

short and without trains.

Dinner and Theatre Dresses. - Dinner dresses

are not so elaborate as dance frocks. Sleeves

are worn to the elbow as a rule, and the corsago

is not so d6collet6. In some cases demi-toilette,

consisting of a gown with transparent yoko

and sleeves, may be worn. This style is particu-

larly suitable for theatre wear, more especially

for elderly people. As a rule, ladies occupying

the stalls, boxes, or dress circle of a fewhionablo

West End theatre in London, and our other

large towns, wear low-necked dresses ; theso

are not, however, of the nature of ball dresses,

and " demi-toilette " is every bit as appropriate.

At the opera full evening dress is de rigueur,

and the display made by tho handsome gowns

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

305

and costly jewellery worn by the lady members

of the audience at the opera during the season

is of itself a sight well worth going to see.

The General Utility Evening Gown. - An even-

ing gown for a woman of small means has to be

a more or less adaptable garment which can be

made to do duty upon widely different occasions.

A gown of this kind should never be pronounced

in style or in colour. The material should be

of some endurance. The various satin -faced

materials, such as " satin charmeuse," which

have been so much in vogue of late, are ideal

fabrics for a general utUity gown of the kind

described, as they wear exceedingly well. The

dress should be smartly cut and finished. A

little extra expenditure on the initial outlay

will be well worth while. The neck should of

course be cut low, and the sleeves short for

wear on very dressy occasions ; but the gown

should be furnished with two separate detach-

able sets of lace or net guimpes and sleeves.

One lace guimpe could be cut low in the neck,

only not so decollete as the gown itself, to

form a little lace chemisette coming above the

d6colletage ; the sleeves of this guimpe should

be of elbow -length. The second guimpe shovdd

be cut high in the neck, the sleeves being either

to the wrist or to the elbow. A woman will

thus be provided with a good evening dress

which can be adapted for very dressy, moder-

ately dressy, or demi-toilette occasions ; and

upon each and all of these occasions she will

have the satisfaction of knowing that she is

well and suitably dressed.

Evening Wraps. - Evening cloaks, coats, or

wraps are necessai-ily indispensable adjuncts

to evening dresses, but they must of course

be chosen with due regard to the circumstances

of the wearer.

A woman who lives in the suburbs, for

instance, and cannot afford the outlay on a

hired carriage, taxicab, or cab to take her to

the theatre or to a dance in town, must neces-

sarily go there by train or bus. In these cir-

cumstances a white or other Ught-coloured

cloak would be useless. It would very soon get

dirty, and as light coloiirs show up the dirt very

quickly, it would probably have to be cleaned

after having been worn only two or three times.

For the woman so situated a coat of some

darker colour should be chosen. It need not

necessarily be too dark. There are several

shades of art blue and art green, for instance,

which are most becoming as well as most useful.

The cloak should be lined with white or sonie

other light colour for the protection of the light

gown underneath.

How to keep Gloves Clean when Going Out. -

Light evening gloves are also apt to become

verj' quickly soiled when travelling by train or

omnibus. The wise woman will provide herself

with a pair of cotton or woollen gloves (according

to the season), of a size larger than those she

usually wears and slip them over her other

gloves whilst in the train. She will, of course,

take them off when she reaches her destination,

and the gloves underneath will be found to be

quite clean and fresh, whereas if she had not

taken this precaution, they wotild have un-

avoidably become soiled.

Hats are seldom worn with evening dress, but

when a woman has to either walk or go by

train or tram to the theatre, it is advisable that

she should have some Mght head -covering,

not only to ob\date the risk of catching

cold, but also to keep her hair tidy. A light

crocheted woollen " fascinator," which is the

name given to a kind of hood especially designed

for evening wear, is admirably suited for the

purpose, and may be purchased for two or

three shilhngs. Silk, chiffon, and lace fascinators

are more expensive, some of these dainty trifles

being extremely elaborate and ornamental in

design. A pretty lace scarf, or a white crepe

de chine motor scarf, would also be iiseful, only

the scarves must be fresh -looking and clean,

as many women spoU the effect of extremely

dainty toilettes by wearing either a soiled scarf

or a very bedraggled piece of chiffon over the

hair. Fascinators are dress accessories well

within the scope and skill of the home worker,

and many a dainty little head-covering may

be fashioned at home from one or two lengths

of lace, chiffon, or silk with very little trouble.

DRESS FOR THE WOMAN WORKER

The women workers in our leirge cities are

apt to err most lamentably in regard to their

dress in office hours. Girl typists will be seen

dressed in light flviffy dresses with short sleeves

and no collars, their dress Uberally adorned with

imitation jewellery, to say nothing of the

ubiquitous row of pearls worn round the neck.

Such a dress is thoroughly out of place in a

business office, and the girl who adopts it will

handicap herself a great deal when it comes to

the question of seeking for a new post.

Appearances go for a great deal in business,

as much in fact as under any other conditions

of life. An employer -will as often as not put

down the girl who is tawdry in her appearance

as apt to be tawdry in her work, and the post

\vill therefore go to a girl who, though perhaps

she may be less efficient as a worker, will create

a more favourable impression by being suitably

dressed. A neat coat and skirt costume is

the ideal dress for the city worker, with an

alternative in the serviceable costume recently

suggested by the manager of one of London's

largest drapery establishments as the most

suitable wear for the woman in business. This

consists of a neat Norfolk costume, made of

good face cloth or serge for winter wear, and of

butcher-blue linen or other similar material for

summer wear, worn with a neat turn-down

306

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

linen collar. Tlie costume is a particularly

dainty and effective one. In addition it looks

trim and thoroughly in keeping with business or

office surroundings.

COATS AND WBAPS

Tlie rain coat is rapidly taking the place of

the ubiquitous mackintosh for wear in wet

weather. It lias this advantage, it can take

the place of an ordinary coat to perfection, and

for this reason it is especially useful on showery

days. Mackintoshes do not look well except

when worn diu-ing an actual downpour ; a

brilliant burst of sunshine will make them look

woefully out of keeping. Very often the

wearer will not wish to discard her coat when

the weather clears up, as she will most probably

have donned her oldest garments in preparation

for a very wet day. It is in these circumstances,

then, that a rain coat is especially useful. Very

good rain coats may be had in serviceable

tweeds, covert coating and other materials,

also in the material known as " Cravenette."

Motoring Coats. - It is useless to make an

ordinary coat and skirt costume do duty for a

long motor drive, such as from London to

Brighton, for instance. A special motor coat is

absolutely necessary. Very useful tweed and

cloth motoring coats may be had at moderate

prices. The coats are usually semi-fitting, and

rainproof in most instances.

UNDERCLOTHING

Women are at length beginning to under-

stand that good well-cut underclotliing is

essential to the neat fit of a dress, and in this

respect what may be termed a regular revolu-

tion in regard to underwear has set in. One

ofter hears elderly people sighing for the good

old days when clothing was regulated aa much

by common sense aa by the style of the moment.

We doubt if such days ever existed - they cer-

tainly did not in regard to underclothing. It

is interestiiig to read the remarks of fashion

writers in nooks dealing with subjects of dress

published about twenty years ago. One writer

loudly decries the underwear of the time from

the point of v'iew of health. She points out

that clothing to be hygienic must bo light, and

speaks in no measured terms of disapproval of

the practice of cumbering the body with heavy

garments a.s a protection against cold. She

also deals with the increased bulkiness of the

figure caused by the fastenings of those under-

garments which were worn drawn into a very

substantial fulness by means of tapes round the

waist. " The weight of the garments should not

fall from the waist," she complained ; " all

hygienic garments should be designed so that

the weight falls from the shoulders." This

writer proved a veritable prophet in her genera-

tion, for all sensible women nowadays plan

out their underwear with due regard to the

principles she advocated. We doubt if the

change is due to the improved present-day

knowledge of the principles of hygiene, rather

may we ascribe it to the vagaries of " Dame

Fasliion," who at present decrees that the

fasliionable figure must be slim. Bulkiness of

underwear is naturally incompatible with slim-

ness of contour, and hence for the nonce feishion

and hygiene are walking hand in hand.

Sensible people no longer cumber their bodies

with heavy underwear ; light woollen com-

binations and a warm flannel petticoat are all

the extra clothing they adopt in very cold

weather. Sometimes they discard the petti-

coat altogether, and wear neatly cut and warmly

lined serge or satin knickers under their walking

costumes. Corsets are also now built on

hygienic lines ; the wasp waist is happily a-

thing of the past, and we hope that it will remain

buried in obli\don.

There are several makers of woollen under-

wear who vie with each other in the lightness

of texture combined with the maxinaim of

warmth to be found in the material of which

their goods are manufactured. Silk, and mix-

tures of cotton and silk and wool and cotton, for

winter underwear are also to be had in several

makes, and make satisfactory winter wear for

those who cannot stand the all-woollen garments

next their skin. Ready-made imder -garments

may be had in almost every size. All the

leading firms are making a special feature of

" out sizes," by wlrich is meant sizes to fit

women with ultra-stout figures. The good

needlewoman can now fashion her own under-

clothing with a great measure of success.

Patterns of all styles and sizes of underwear may

be had from almost all the ladies' fashion papers

in liberal profusion ; the veriest amateur can

cut well-fitting garments from them, as they are

extremely simple in design as a rule, and can

easily be adapted to suit individual require-

ments.

Lingerie. - Fastidiousness in regard to " lin-

gerie " is characteristic of the present day, and

every woman is anxious that her underwear

should bo as neat and as dainty as possible.

Formerly longcloth and calico were considered

the materials " par excellence " for " lingerie "

under -garments, and strength of make was held

to be of much more importance than good cut

and daintiness of design. Nowadays, the ten-

dency of the modern woman is to go to ex-

tremes of luxuriousness in the fineness and

daintiness of her underwear, and to ignore as

far as possible the question of serviceability.

This is as much a mistake as to make dura-

bility an apology for lack of daintiness, more

especially whore both good qualities can be

so admirably combined. It is advisable to

avoid all cheap makes of underwear character-

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

307

ised by the elaboration of their trimmings.

It stands to reason that the material of these

must be of the very cheapest to allow of such

elaborate ornamentation, and in most cases the

garments will not survive a few visits to the

laundry. When you have only a very little

money to spend in tliis direction, the plainer the

article the better and the more serviceable will

it turn out to be. Fine longcloth, batiste, lawn,

nainsook are the favourite materials for under-

wear. Perhaps a good nainsook is the most

satisfactory in regard to the combined qualities

of daintiness and good wear. Dainty laces are

used as trimmings on all the finer garments,

which are also embellished by means of fine

hand-embroidery and the finest needlework.

Fabtdous are the sums of money spent in this

direction. Some very pretty and at the same

time inexpensive iinderlinen may be had in

the plain hand-embroidered work of the Irish

and French peasants ; night-dresses, chemises,

drawers, combinations worked in this manner

are sold at very moderate prices. Ribbons are

now largely worn with under -garments. They

usually are slotted tlirough rows of embroidery

or lace beading. Although ribbons may be

purchased very cheaply nowadays, the fashion

tends to be a somewhat extravagant one, as they

seldom wash satisfactorily. Messrs. Cash of

Coventry, however, have supphed a need in

this direction by their washable ribbons for

underwear which come out Uke new from the

hands of the laundress. These ribbons can bo

obtained from any drapers at prices varying

from Is. Id. to 33. pe'' dozen yards, according

to width. The colours are warranted to be

perfectly fast. For trimming home-made

under -garments, the plain hem-stitched and lace

frillings sold by this firm are also remarkable

for their good quality and durabihty ; beading,

open-work insertions, and edgings of all kind

particularlj' suitable for trimming dainty lingerie

may be had at the most moderate prices. All

Cash's trimmings are sold in twelve-yard lengths

at prices varying from Is. the piece and upwards.

Underskirts and Petticoats. - At one time a silk

petticoat was deemed a luxury only within the

reach of the most affluent. Nowadays weU-cut

silk underskirts for wear with dressy toilettes

may be had at prices well within the reach of

the average woman's purse. In this connection

fashion is apt to change to a certain extent.

Sometimes rustUng silk underskirts are worn ; at

other times, as at the present moment, under-

skirts of .-joft silk or satin are more fashionable.

White lace-trimmed and embroidered petticoats

are the correct wear with summer muslins and

hnen dresses. These may be had cut in the

princess style at very moderate prices.

The Princess Petticoat. - One of the most note-

worthy outcomes of the change of fashion in

regard to underwear is the " princess " petticoat.

This garment., which consists of a camisole and

underskirt in one, has come to stay, for it is so

comfortable that few once having worn it will

discard it.

It is made to fit closely to the figure, and all

unnecessary fulness is done away with.

In regard to hngerie petticoats of this kind

they are very \iseful for wear with inusUn and

other summer dresses, forming a complete under-

dress of themselves, and thiis doing away alto-

gether with the necessity for any kind of dress

lining.

Another style of petticoat which has per-

fection of fit as its leading characteristic is

that known as the " Leewig " petticoat. These

petticoats consist of close-fitting cotton, stock-

ingette or spun -silk tops with detachable

flounces. The flounces fasten easily to the

petticoat by means of patent fastening devices,

and the effect on the whole is neat in the extreme.

Flounces of every description may be had to

go with these petticoats, ranging in price from

2s. lid. to £5, 5s. The petticoat tops have the

additional advantage of wasliing perfectly, and

thus from the point of view of hygiene, as well as

from the point of view of economy, a petticoat

of the kind is a good investment. The Leewig

petticoats are the patent of ^lessrs. Cliarles Lee

and Co., Wigmore Street, London, and are

made to measure free of any extra charge.

FURS

Tlie wear of furs has become so ubiquitous

that there is scarcely a woman nowadays who

does not possess some piece of genuine peltry,

however small, cherishing it as one of her most

valuable possessions.

In choosing fvu-s the woman of limited means

will reqiiire to exercise no little care and dis-

crimination ; skins which will not last more

than a season will be of no use to her, however

inexpensive they may be. Her object should

be to obtain inexpensive yet good furs with

good wearing properties.

Bearskin is a fiu- which should at once find

favour with the woman who has to practise

economy in regard to her purchase. It is not

only one of the least expensive of furs, but it

is also one of the most dtu-able, and, as far eis

the dark bearskin is concerned, one of the most

universally becoming. The hght bearskins are

not much worn, for the reason that on account of

their shade they do not suit many people.

Marmot runs bearskin very close in regard to

both wear and economy in the original outlay.

Squirrel is also an economical fiu-, its soft grey

tints being especially becoming to dark-haired

women, and fair women with very bright and

clear complexions. This season, however, there

is every indication of a rise in price of squirrel,

owing to the vogue for grey furs which was one

of the features of the ^-inter season of 1910.

Opossum is a good diirable and very inexpensive

308

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

fur, chiefly used for trimming coats, sdt hough it

was also a great deal worn last season in the

form of ties and muffs. Beaver is a useful fur

which shows signs of coming into fasliion again,

although it has not been much worn during the

last few seasons. Moleskin is an inexpensive

and becoming fur, but it has the disadvantage

of wearing badly. This is also the case with one

of our most beautiful and at the same time one

of our most fashionable furs - Fox. Black Fox,

which is the most generally becoming of the

fox varieties, being perhaps the worst in this

respect ; the smoked fox wearing better than

either the black, silvered, or the white. The

vogue for silver fox was specially marked last

season. Skunk is a beautiful soft fur, somewhat

after the appearance of dark bearskin, but much

more expensive.

The black woolly furs Astrachan and Persian

Lamb are very durable. Neat little ties and

muffs of astrachan are quite moderate in price,

but as the fashion at present inclines to very

large stoles and enormous pillow muffs, a set of

the kind in either of these fiu-s would be fairly

expensive.

Sable is one of the most expensive of furs,

but at the same time it is one of the most durable ;

a good sable tie will last for years. The Russian

sable is the best and the most costly. Next

comes the Canadian sable, and last the Kolinsky,

which is much cheaper than either the Russian

or the Canadian varieties.

A new fur called Fisher was introduced last

season. This is very Uke sable in appearance,

with the exception that the skin contains a few

white hairs. It may be purchased for the

same price as Canadian sable. Mink is a good

wearing fur, somewhat darker than sable.

Stone Marten also wears well. Chinchilla is a

soft deUcate fur of a pretty grey shade. Ermine,

the Royal fur, is one of the most beautiful and

becoming of furs, though delicate and costly.

Sealskin is a fur which will always be fashionable

for those who can afford it. Undoubtedly the

most beautiful of furs, its soft sheeny appearance

is unrivalled, and there are few whom it does

not suit. Its price is, however, prohibitive to

many - a good long sealskin coat being rarely

obtainable for less than £100. There has Ijeen

a great vogue during the last season, however,

for sea) musqueush and seal coney, both of

which, more especially the seal musquash,

resemble the real seal in appearance. Seal

coney is the loss expensive of the two, and has

been largely worn both in the form of coats

and stole and muff sets.

Ihe woman with little money to spend on

furs cannot do better than purchtise a good bear-

skin, marmot, or squirrel set. A fairly good dark

fox stole and muff may be had for £7, Vs., but

the bad wearing properties of the fox are usually

against it. It is better to purchase all furs

from a good furrier, as necessarily the q'lality

of the skins will depend to a great extent upon

the establishment at wliich they eire bought. It

is impossible to give anj' exact figures as to the

prices of furs, as these are continually fluctuating.

In reg8u:d to imitation furs, wliito foxahne or

imitation fox sets may be purchased for a sum

of about £2, 2s. Their appearance is very good

indeed, the white foxaline resembling the real

fur very closely, and in this respect it is superior

to most other imitation furs.

It is always better to send good furs to a

furrier to be cleaned in preference to sending

them to an ordinary cleaner. Furriers remodel,

reline, and renovate furs at very moderate prices,

and often store them for the winter free of charge,

if they are entrusted with work of the kind.

(For Care of Furs, see p. 315.)

HATS, BONNETS AND VEILS

In her headgear, even more perhaps than in

her dress, is a woman inclined to go astray

when slavislily following the dictates of fashion.

Thus the grotesque spectacle presented by a

diminutive specimen of womanhood wearing a

hat of immense proportions, the brim being

so large as to completely hide her neck at the

back, is only too common at the present day.

Cartooniats may hold her up to ridicule, humor-

ists may launch their wit at her expense - but all

without avail. Her hat is of the latest fashion,

so she feels quite happy, and goes her own sweet

way.

A woman of taste shuns all extreme styles in

millinery as in dress. Whatever the fashion of

the moment, it is always open to modification,

and headgear of at least a moderate style is

always to be had. A woman has no excuse

therefore for making herself grotesque.

One important thing to be remepibered is

that headgear should always be as light as

possible. Heavy, stiff, ill-ventilated millinery

is most injurious to the health of the hair.

Although on the cold snowy days of winter

there is nothing more becoming than the

toque of fur, fur as a head -covering is not

hygienic, more especially as fur toques are apt

to fit very closely to the head. Young men

become prematurely bald because their head-

gear is stiff and unhygienic, and unfortunately

for thorn the styles of their hats vary but little

in their essential points. There is such an

abundance of choice in a woman's millinery

that she need never choo.se a hat which by

reason of its heaviness and its very close fit is

unhygienic. A woman's millinery should there-

fore always be chosen with due regard to the

all -essential quality of lightness. Heavy head-

gear if persistently worn will in time caiise

injury to the best head of hair.

A woman's hat should always be in keeping

with her dress. Thus a neat toque or turban

or a medium -sized hat plainly trimmed is thg

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

309

ideal hat to wear with a " tailor-made." Simple

picture hats are siiited to light cotton and

muslin dresses, whilst more elaborate hats of

all shapes are worn with smart afternoon

toilettes, and all very dressy gowns for dressy

occasions. A picture hat would be quite out

of place on a motor drive or on a steamboat,

be it said. For motoring distinctive motoring

millinery should always be worn. Motor hats

and bonnets are not now the hideous things

they were when motoring first came into fashion.

Indeed, a pretty face seldom looks prettier than

when seen under a becoming motor hat (or

bonnet) and veil. For wet weather special

waterproof silk hoods are made to cover the hat

or bonnet. These may be had at a price of from

10s. 6d. and upwards. Motor veils are also largely

worn round the headgear on board ship and on

stormy days at the seaside ; indeed, there is no

fashion introduced within recent years that has

proved more useful than the motor veil. Both

when motoring and on board ship, or on gusty

days at the seaside, it serves the double purpose

of keeping the hat on and keeping the hair tidy.

With a motor veil well tied round one's hat, a

gusty day is robbed of most of its discomfort to

the feminine sex in the way of hat-pins falling

out, hats blowing off, and tresses becoming

loosened and falling about one's face in not

always " picturesque " disorder. (For Home

Millinery, see p. 432.)

Bonnets. - The bonnet, in the true sense of the

word, has had its day. Formerly it was prac-

tically de rigueur for a woman as soon as she

married to discard the youthful -looking hat for

the more sober -looking bonnet, as a sign that she

had attained the dignity of matronhood. Nowa-

days the old-time bonnet is only worn by elderly

people, with the addition perhaps of the more

old-fashioned matrons who still adhere to the

traditions of their youth. Now and again there

come signs of the reappearance of the bonnet

in the millinery world, but these only herald

the tentative advent of some picturesque styles

taken from similarly picturesque periods, styles

as a rule only becoming to very young faces,

and for this reason usually short-lived.

For elderly people the present-day styles in

bonnet wear are a great improvement upon

those formerly in vogue. Dainty silk and lace

creations are to be had trimmed with jet,

ribbon, ostrich tips and other appropriate trim-

mings. The art of millinery is employed to-

wards making them as youthful -looking as is

compatible with the age of their wearers.

Veils. - Veils are not now the all -important

adjunct of dress they were in former years. At

the present day their wear is practically optional,

limited to those whom they suit. The style

of wearing veils is materially altered. A few

years ago they were worn quite closely round the

face, whilst now they are allowed to fall loosely

from the hat, and when worn with large picture

hats are becoming to most faces. The style is

a great improvement from the point of view of

the eyesight ; the tightly skinned veil was most

trying to the eyes, and even now large patterns

and spots should be avoided. Dainty veilings

may be had in many makes, the plainer the

pattern and the finer the net the better for the

eyesight. Large patterns on a veil are always

injurious. When taken off, a veil should be

pxilled out smoothly, and wound round a piece

of cardboard before being put away, or else

rolled up carefully, the ends being kept even.

When veils are to be worn with very large hats,

their adjustment is much simplified by making

a narrow hem at the top, and running very

narrow ribbon through this. In this way the

veil can be made to gather upon the ribbon,

which is drawn tightly over the brim of the hat

and tied at the back. Veils may now be worn

to fall loosely over the chin, a fashion which much

simpUfies their arrangement.

GLOVES, BOOTS, AND SHOES

" One can always tell a lady by her gloves and

by her shoes " is a familiar saying, and, like

most familiar sayings, it has a very substantial

amount of truth. To be " down at heel " is

perhaps the worst form of shabbiness, and the

woman who goes about with holes in her gloves

advertises the fact that she is lacking in that

refinement and neatness of dress by which a

gentlewoman is always characterised. There

are many false economies habitually practised

by various households ; but of all false econo-

mies, economy in footwear is apt to become the

dearest in the long-rtm. Cheap boots are

usually made of hard unyielding material ;

they are not only answerable for corns, bunions,

blisters, and other similar ills, but their soles

are little more effective than brown paper in

resisting damp and wet - consequently many a

severe chill and illness can be traced to their

wear. In addition they lose their shape very

quickly and require to be soon renewed. It is

better to pay a good price for all boots and

shoes, and the result will be much more satis-

factory in the long-run. There should not be

much difficulty in getting ready-made boots to

fit nowadays, when half and even quarter sizes

are to be had. The Americans have been

largely responsible for this welcome innovation

in regard to size, and American boots and shoes

are, as a rule, neat and well fitting. One particu-

larly good American make of boot, known under

the trademark of the " Sorosis," has become

very popular. The Sorosis boots and shoes are

well cut and keep their shape very well. They

may be had for the modest price of 16s. 6d., and

are good for any amount of hard wear. Several

good makes of walking shoes can be had for

from 10s. 6d. and upwards. Tlie cult of the

" small " foot is not as universal as it was a few

310

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

years ago. The greater participation by women

in outdoor exercise, games and atliletics is in

a large way responsible for tliis, and women

seldom nowadays are seen to attempt to squeeze

their feet into shoes one or two sizes too small for

them. A woman with a naturally large foot

would, however, do well to always wear her

boots with toe-caps, as these diminish the

apparent size of the foot ; she should never

wear brown and other hght-coloured boots or

shoes, as they have exactly the opposite effect.

Boots with very high heels and pointed toes

sliould be avdided.

Evening Shoes are worn to match the dress.

They are usually of leather, suede or satin.

Satin shoes are the most fasliionable at the

present moment. Gold and Silver leather

evening shoes are also very smart, and can be

worn with almost any ev'ening gown. (For

painting white shoes gold or silver, see p. 318.)

Goloshes. - Rubber goloshes are very useful to

slip over the boots and shoes in wet weather, in

order to keep the feet perfectly dry. They may

bo had as complete overshoes or half goloshes ;

the latter cover the sole and toe-cap of the boot,

only fitting over the heel by means of a piece

of broad elastic.

The prices of goloshes vary slightly with the

price of rubber ; usually 2s. lid. will buy a pair

of goloshes, whilst half goloshes may be had for

even less.

Snowboots. - Snowboots are not much worn in

England ; they should, however, form part of

the equipment of every woman who conteinplates

going to Canada or other colonies where the

snowfall is great. For wintering in Switzerland

and other similar places their wear is also

essential. They are made of cloth, usually

trimmed with fur, and have india-rubber soles.

They are slipped over the boot in sno^vy weather.

They are not costly, and it is always useful to

have a pair by for winter in case of an un-

usually hf!avy snowfall.

Creaking Boots. - Well-made boots rarely

creak ; the creaking boot or shoe is usually one

of an inferior quaUty. Standing the boots over-

night in salt and water, using just sufficient cold

water to cover the soles after rubbing a little oil

well into the leather, has often remedied this

annoying defect. If this treatment does not

do good at first, repeat for two or throe nights.

Gloves. - Kid and suede gloves are those used

for smart wear. In the summer silk and cotton

ones may bo worn with light dresses. The

fashion in gloves varies to a large extent.

Som<^times very long elbow-length gloves are

won. in the daytime. At other times they are

only worn to cover the hands and wrists. Their

length of course depends altogether on the

length of sleeves to gowns which is the fashion

of the moment. The feushion of short sleeves

to gowns is always liable to recur at regular

intervals, more especially for the summer sepson.

and glove -makers have therefore to carefvilly

watch the trend of fashion befoi-e planning

their stock. For evening wear, long gloves are

nearly always in fashion - the long white suede

and kid gloves being always appropriate wear for

hght toilettes and black gloves for black toilettes,

although evening gloves are always worn as far

as possible to match the gown, and may be had

in most of the dehcate evening shades.

In regard to the coloui- of gloves for outdoor

wear, fasliions are also constantly changing. At

one time the various shades of tan were con-

sidered appropriate wear for all occasions in the

daytime. Subsequentlj^ white kid gloves were

de rigueur for afternoon and dressy toilettes. At

the present time the tendency is as far as possible

for the gloves to match the gown, and gloves are

now manufactured in almost every conceivable

shade. This is a fashion which may be carried

to extremes of luxury beyond the reach of the

modest purse, and for this reason it is not likely

to become general. Light -coloured gloves, how-

ever, such as light beaver, biscuit colour, white,

should be worn on dressy occasions.

From the point of view of economy, kid gloves

are more useful than suede - the latter are apt

to wear into holes more quickly, and do not look

so fresh as kid gloves once they have been

in the hands of the cleaners. Gloves should

always be well fitting, and care should be taken

to select those of the right size. Tight gloves

are responsible for red hands and arms, whilst

gloves which are too large give an air of un-

tidiness to their wearer. Great care must be

taken in putting on gloves for the first time, for

on this will to a large extent depend their appear-

ance on subsequent occasions. Never put on

a new pair of gloves hurriedly - work all the

fingers into the glove fingers before putting in

the thumb, and above all see that the seams are

not twisted, but that they are all in place. It is

as well to rest the elbow on the table while

gently putting on the glove. A little powder

dusted into the fingers of the gloves before

putting them on will often make them f^o on

more easily. The buttons of new gloves should

always bo firmly stitched on before they are

worn. One or two buttons will usually be

found to be loose, and this is a very necessary

precaution if neatness is desired. A very small

piece of cotton wool placed inside the finger-

tips of silk gloves will often prevent holes from

coming as quickly as they are wont to do with

gloves of this kind. All kid and suede gloves

should bo sent to the cleaners when dirty,

home cleaning of gloves is unsatisfactory as a

rule, and as gloves are cleaned for the small sum

of 2d. a pair nowadays, the bother of cleaning

them at home is hardly worth while. (For

washing silk and cotton gloves, see p. 295.)

If after taking off delicate kid gloves they

are stretched out straight and put away flat

between sheets of tissue or other clean paper.

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARB

311

they will keep their shape much better, and

their wear will be materially prolonged.

STOCKINGS

Cashmere stockings make the most satis-

factory all -the -year -round wear ; warm, closely

woven cashmere stockings for the winter, and a

much lighter texture for the summer. Large

worked silk patterns on stockings are no longer

fashionable. The finer the texture of the

stockings the smarter are they supposed to be

for present-day wear. Very finely woven Msle

thread hose are much in fashion at the moment.

These are quite plain without any pattern, ex-

cepting perhaps a small black silk clock which

runs up the side of the leg. The effect is that of

fine silk, and as hsle thread is much cheaper

than the former material, it has to a great

extent superseded it for dressy wear amongst

people of moderate means, though silk hosiery

undoubtedly is the acme of " dressiness " for

very smart occasions.

Those who wear hsle thread hose would

always do well to see that the soles and heels

are of cashmere. Stockings of this description

can be had in a great many makes, and

from the point of view of both wear and com-

fort are far superior to those which are of hsle

thread throughout.

Open-work Hsle thread stockings are no

longer so fashionable as they were. Although

they are still largely worn, plain hsle thread

stockings are considered smarter in every way.

Those who suffer from tender feet, corns, &c.,

should never wear any other than cashmere or

hght woollen stockings.

Suspenders. - As a means of keeping up the

stockings, suspenders are much more satisfactory

than garters. They are more hygienic, inasmuch

as they do not tend to restrict the circulation as

in the case of a band of elastic drawn tightly

round the leg. Suspenders now form an integral

part of nearly all the new makes of corsets, and

besides keeping up the hose, serye in a certain

measui-e to keep the corset in place and so help

to support the fig\ire.

It is always well to ensure that the studs of

the suspenders are surrounded by some soft

silk or kid covering, otherwise they are apt

to tear the stockings, forming what is known

as a " ladder." Some stockings are manu-

factui'ed with a small portion of the upper part

of the leg of different and stronger material

from the rest of the stocking. Stockings built

in this way effectively resist the strain of the

heaviest suspenders. Failing this, it is a good

plan, if the stockings are fairly long in the legs, to

double them over slightly at the top before fixing

the suspenders. When thus doubled over they

resist the strain of the suspenders much better

than when they are put on in the ordinary way.

THE ACCESSORIES OF DRESS

It is in the accessories of her dress as much as

in any other detail that the weU-dressed woman

justifies her reputation as such. With her, pins

are not made to do duty for hooks and 6yes,

and there is never that ugly gap between waist-

band and skirt which is so often characteristic

of the blouse and skirt toilette of the untidy

woman. She is well up to date in such trifles

as waistbands and dainty neck -wear, realising

that even a gown which has seen better days

may be effectively sinartened by the freshness

of such Mttle details as lace jabots, pretty ties,

or any other similar dainty trifles which may be

the fashion of the moment. In one important

detail the well-dressed woman holds her own.

The fit of the collar of her gown is always above

reproach. There is nothing that tends to

impart an air of untidiness in dress more than

an ill-fitting collar. The collars of ready-made

blouses, for instance, run in certain sizes, and

are apt to be too large on some women. Yet

these women will seldom think of altering the

collar before wearing the blouse, and the result

is that they never achieve the eSect of looking

really smart. The fit and cut of the coUar of a

gown is not the least important adjunct to its

style, and the well-dressed woman realises tliis.

In the matter of collars, fashion is apt to show

strange vagaries. One season they will be

worn high, almost to the ears - at another gowns

will be innocent of even the pretence of a

collar band. One word of warning to the

middle-aged woman in this direction. Very

stiff and tight-fitting collars are injvu-ious to

the neck, causing it to become hned, and often

making the skin of an unbecoming yeUow

colour ; these, hke all other extremes of fashion,

should be avoided. On the other hand, a woman

who is getting on in years should always have

a collar of some kind to her go\vns. Tliis need

not be too high, but it should always be of

medium height - the lower her collar the more

it will detract from her appearance. Collar less

bodices in the daytime are only becoming to the

very young. This is a rule to be observed

whatever the tendency of fasliion. At the time

of writing, what are known as the " Peter Pan "

and " Claudine " collars are much in vogue. Tlie

Peter Pan is a plain ttu-n-down coUar of em-

broidery, net or lace ; the Claudine collar is a

pleated collar of the same shape and materials.

Both are worn with blouses which are innocent

of neckbands. This style of collar is very

becoming to young girls of the " pension-

naire " style with round faces and full throats,

but when adopted by the dowager of fifty it

only succeeds in making her look absurd.

Elderly women should avail themselves of the

fashion for dainty not and chiffon frilling, which

sewn on to the collar has a most softening effect

upon even the most faded and wxinkled faces.

312

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

There has been indeed during the whole of

the year 1910 such a variety of becoming neck-

wear to choose from, that the elderly woman

has really had no excuse for succumbing to the

vogue for the Peter Pan.

Dainty lace, net and muslin jabota have been

introduced in endless variety, their coming into

fashion being due to a large extent to the very

deep and low openings with which the fronts

of tailor-made coats were cut. The lace jabot

has proved such a dainty dress accessory that

the opinion may be hazarded that it will still hold

its own, at any rate for wear with indoor toilettes.

These jabots are simple of design and etisy of

construction, and the clever home worker may

easily fashion them from any odd bit of lace,

muslin, or net which she may discover in her

odds -and -ends bag. Many women still keep to

the neat linen collars and cufis for wear with

morning sliirt blouses. It must be remembered,

however, that these are only suitable for morning

indoor and outdoor wear. For the afternoon

something more dressy is required. Linen

collars should fit £is loosely as is compatible with

neatness, and they should never be worn too

high. The constant wearing of stiffly starched

high collars is very bad for the neck, causing

lines and discoloration of the skin.

JEWELLERY

Love of jewellery is innate with almost all

womankind. Perhaps it is inherited from that

passion for all kinds of ornaments displayed

by our more remote and barbaric ancestors. It

is certainly typical of the savage of to-day as

shown in his love of gaudy bead ornaments and

everything bright and glittering. The love of

jewellery, therefore, is most certainly a barbaric

instinct, but none the less it is an instinct which

we most of us possess.

Her passion for jewellery will often make a

woman err seriously in regard to good taste. In

no respect can vulgarity or ostentation be more

glaringly shown than in regard to an inordinate

display of brooches, rings, bangles and other orna-

ments of the kind. Often at f"ishionable restau-

rants a woman will be seen with diamond rings

half covering every finger of both hands, some-

times not even excluding the thumbs. Such a

display may certainly be indicative of her wealth,

but it serves even more to emphasise her lack

of refinement and good breeding. Very little

jewellery should be worn in the morning.

Diamonds are totally out of place with a morning

gown ; with the exception of her engagement

ring, which a woman never discards, she should

keep diamond ornaments for afternoon and

evening wear. A great display of jewellery

in the daytime is never in good taste. For

evening wear, however, one's taste for jewellery

may be indulged, only excess of ornamentation

should be avoided.

Brooches, pendants and bangles should be ia

keeping as far as possible. For instance, one

should avoid wearing a turquoise necklet at

the same time as an amethyst brooch and a

ruby bangle. Pearls and turquoises go very well

together, as do diamonds and opals - diamonds,

in fact, go well with most stones. They are

most becoming as a rule to brunettes and

dark-haired women generally, wliilst pearls are

the ideal stone for fair women, and more especi-

ally for young girls. Jet jewellery is worn with

very deep mourning.

There seems to be an inclination nowadays for

women who cannot afford good jewellery to go

in to a great extent for various imitations and

shams. This is a very great mistake. Sham

jewellery is yet another unfailing sign of wil-

garity. If a woman cannot afford diamonds

and precious stones she should be content with

plain gold. It is better to possess a very Uttle

good jewellery than an abundance of paste and

other imitation ornaments.

Care of Jewellery. - All plain gold bangles,

bracelets, brooches and other articles of jewellery

may be cleaned by W8ishing in a lather of soap ,.^_

and water. They should be well dried with a jfl

towel, and gentle rubbing with chamois leather

will serve to give an additional polish. Diamonds

may be cleaned by rubbing with eau-de-Cologne.

If very dirty, they may first be brushed gently

with warm water and a httle soap. The pre-

paration known as " jewellers' rouge," to be

obtained from the jewellers, is very good for

polishing gold and diamond ornaments. Pearls

and turquoises should never be allowed to go

into water ; turquoises in particular are liable

to lose their colour if exposed to the wet. These

stones can be cleaned with methylated spirits.

Opals are stones which require particular care ;

they should never be exposed to too much heat,

as this often makes them crack. They should

be cleaned with powder, to be obtained from the

jewellers for the purpose.

For cleaning jewellery set with small pearls,

rub well with a chamois leather, and if very

dirty, apply a little whiting with a small brush.

Little boxes containing chamois leather and

cleaning material for jewellery can be bought at

any of the large stores. Jet may be cleaned by

rubbing with olive oil and polishing with a

chamois leather.

If before putting on any article of jewellery,

the wearer would take the trouble to polish it

gently with a clean chamois leather, she would

find that it would keep clean for a much longer

period.

SYMBOLISM OF STONES

The Diamond signifies light, innocence, life

and joy.

The Rtiby - divine power and love, dignity

and royalty.

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

313

The Carbuncle - blood and suffering.

The Sardius - martyrdom.

The Sapphire - all heavenly virtues.

The Topaz - divine goodness and human

faithfulness.

The Emerald - hopes of immortality.

The Amethyst - earthly sufferings and truth

unto death.

The Pearl - purity, innocence and humility.

CARE OF CLOTHES

Care of Outdoor Clothes. - A woman who

takes care of her clothes always manages to

look tidy and neat, whatever the limitations of

her purse, and she can eke out her dress allow-

ance much more successfully than her careless

sister who, either through ignorance or natural

untidiness, fails to get the proper amount of

wear out of her garments, which very soon lose

their pristine freshness.

In respect to outdoor costumes, one sensible

rule should invariably be observed. Never

wear an outdoor skirt in the house if you wish

it to keep in proper shape. Make a rule of

changing it as soon as you come in from a walk ;

there is nothing more calculated to make a

tailor-made skirt lose its shape and become

shabby than constantly sitting about in it and

wearing it indoors.

All cloth and serge dresses should be brushed

directly they are taken off. The garment should

first be brushed with a good whisk brush to get

the dust off, then it should be laid on a table and

brushed with a moderately hard clothes-brush,

a hard brush being used to remove any mud from

round the hem, and a soft brush to remove the

dust from silk or velvet trimmings. Soft

brushes should always be used for very fine

cloth and velvet. Combined soft and hard

clothes-brushes may be had, the bristles being

hard on one side of the brush and soft on the

other.

On a wet day particular care should be taken

to change the outdoor dress. Letting alone all

questions of catching cold through keeping on

damp clothing, a skirt will become hopelessly

creased -looking if worn when it is wet. It

should be taken off at once, and hung up to dry

in a warm atmosphere. If very much creased,

however, it will require ironing with a moderately

warm iron on the wrong side of the material to

take the creases out. Dry skirts which are

slightly creased should be hung out in the open

air, or near - but not too near - the fire. The

wear of tailor-made garments will be materially

prolonged if they are sent occasionally to the

taOor's to be pressed. A tailor's charges for

pressing are not heavy, and more especially in

the case of a pleated skirt which has become

very damp and creased, a visit to the tailor will

give it a new lease of life. There are many

working tailors in a small way of trade who

charge very little for pressing and renovating

garments from time to time, repairing buttons

and attending to other httle details which

require attention to keep the garment trim and

neat. A tailor will also have aU the necessary

pressing apphances, and the result will be more

satisfactory in every way than if the dress were

ironed at home.

Care of Indoor Dresses. - Indoor dresses also

require their share of attention. The busy

woman need not wear an untidy or slovenly

appearance in the house because she has domestic

duties to attend to. She should keep a special

workaday gown, it is true, but this should

always be trim and neat. A plain butcher-

blue Unen with turn-down collar and tie makes

an admirable house di'ess for morning wear in the

summer ; a neat plainly cut blouse and skirt

serves an equal purpose in the winter. The

linen dress could be one of these plain -cut

princess gowns known as " tub frocks," which

are Ukely to remain long with us on account of

their extreme usefulness.

Overalls and Aprons. - The housewife should

take the additional precaution of wearing an

overall which will completely cover her gown

whilst engaged in any housework. An overall

is especially handy also to sUp over an afternoon

gown in the event of any light household task

cropping up in the afternoon, and also in the

event of cooking or superintending the cooking

in the evening. It is better to have long sleeves

to the overall if possible, though many women

prefer overalls and aprons of the daintier sleeve-

less types. For light work one of these latter

is quite sufficient. They may be bought in

several styles from 2s. lid. upwards, or can be

easily made at home by even the amateur

needlewoman.

Putting Clothes Away. - Dresses and skirts

which when taken off are tlii'own carelessly over

the backs of chairs, or are hung

up one on top of another behind

doors, very soon become soiled

and shabby -looking. Cloth and

serge dresses should be well

shaken and brushed when taken

off in the manner already de-

scribed, and then hung up in a

cupboard or wardrobe, the coats

suspended on coat-hangers, and

the skirts hung up by their loops.

There sho\ild alwaj's be two loops

for hanging sewn inside the waist-

band of the skirt. This helps a

great deal to preserve the " hang "

of the garment - one loop is not

sufficient for the purpose. Some

very simple combined coat and

skirt hangers may now be had

from the most of the leading drapers for the

trifling cost of a few pence, and it is as well to use

these where possible.

Skirt-Bag and

Hanger.

314

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Light-coloured skirts and all best skirts should

be hung up in thin musUn or cotton bags made

to open down the front. Several drapery firms

sell combined hangers and skirt -bags at moderate

prices. An old wliito petticoat can bo admirably

made to answer the purpose of a skirt -bag by

drawing it in at the top.

Impromptu Cupboards. - In some small houses

and flats where every inch of space is valuable,

there is httlo room for heavy furniture such as

W£irdrobes, and very often there are no cupboards

pro\ided, so that the putting away of clothes

becomes a real problem, which is not always

readily solved.

The clever woman is seldom at a loss, however,

even in this emergency. Where there is an

alcove or recess in the w-all, for instance, she

can, with the aid of two boards of wood for

shelves, some dress -hooks and a few yards

of chintz, make an excellent little impromptu

cupboard. One shelf is placed at the requisite

height from the floor, say six or seven feet, to

form the top of the cupboard ; the other shelf

is placed a few inches from the floor. The

chintz curtain is hung from the top of the cup-

board to the floor, and is made to draw back-

wards and forwards. The dress-hooks are fitted

to the top shelf, whilst boots and shoes and hat

boxes may be put on the lower shelf, the cupboard

being sufficiently high for the purpose. Odd

corners in the room can also be utihsed for

hanging dresses by nailing a board with some

dress-hooks across and covering the corner with

a curtain. This method is not, however, so

satisfactory as the alcove cupboard, and clothes

should only be placed there temporarily to get

them out of the way.

Curtains of impromptu cupboards of the kind

should be thoroughly well dusted every day.

Ottomans are also very handy articles to have

in flats, and any small carpenter will put one

together for a trifling sum. Covered with

pretty hght -coloured chintzes, they make very

dainty -looking additions to the furniture of the

room, and their usefulness in regard to the

putting away of linen, clothes or hats is un-

doubted.

Silk Dresses and Underskirts. - Silk drF>sses

should be carefully wiped over with a clean cloth

before being put away. Stiff silk underskirts

should never be folded away in a drawer, as the

silk is liable to spUt at the folds. Tliey should

always bo hung up. Starched cotton and

mushn dresses should be folded away neatly and

put in drawers. If hung up they will soon

become limp and lose their freshness.

Hats should be brushed with a soft hat brush

every time they are taken ofT, and put away on

hat shelves in the cupboard or wardrobe, or

else in a hat box, and well covered over with

tissue paper. For travelling, special leather

hat boxes fitted with cushions for a number of

hats should bo used. These can be had for

from 12s. 6d. and upwards. If the hats have

to be placed on the top tray of an ordinary trunk,

it is a good plan to pin them to the canvas of the

tray by means of hat-pins ; tliis will prevent

them from getting knocked about and tumbled.

Umbrellas should never be opened out to dry

when wet. They should be turned upside down,

resting on the handle. They should not be

left tightly rolled up when not in use, or the

covering will wear into holes at the folds. It is

never a good plan to leave an umbrella in tlie

hall stand. Very often another umbrella will

be pushed tlirough it by mistake, especially if

the stand is overcrowded. A good way of

keeping vmibrellas is to make a case of hoUand

or canvas to hold the number required, and

hang it up inside the door of a cupboard or

wardrobe where it will take up Uttle or no room,

placing the umbrellas inside.

For travelling, special umbrella -cases of leather

or waterproof canvas should be used, if there are

a number of umbrellas to be taken. These cases

may be had at prices varying from 3s. 4d. and

upwards.

Boots and Shoes should always be kept on

trees when not in use, and they will retain their

shape much longer. Wet boots should not be

placed too near the fire to dry, or the leather

will crack. Place them at once on trees and

stand them in a warm dry place. Where there

are no boot -trees available, it is a good plan

to stuff the boots with pieces of old newspaper.

It is always better to have two or three pairs

of boots in constant wear, and not to keep on

wearing one pair day after day until they

become worn out.

Never allow boots or shoes to become *' down

at heel." Send them to be repaired as soon as

the heels show signs of wear. Boots and shoes

should not be left lying about under the bed or

upon the bedroom floor. If there is not a

place for them at the bottom of the dress cup-

board, a Uttle boot cupboard may easily be

fashioned out of an old wine-case or orange-box.

This should be varnished or enamelled, stood

on its side against the wall, and a piece ot chintz

made to draw across it to form a miniature

curtain cupboard. There will be room for a

plank of wood to be fixed in the centre of the

box, and the boots can be placed on the shelf

thus formed, and at the bottom of the box.

Boots which have to be stored for any length of

time should he well vaselined before they aro

put away.

STORING WINTER AND SUMMER

CLOTHES

Before putting away winter or summer clothes

at the end of the season they should be well

sorted out, and any garments that will not

again be required should be given away or

otherwise disposed of. It is an unwise policy to

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

315

hoard up old soiled and disused garments which

can never be worn again, more especially to

keep them with other good garments. To do

this in the case of cloth or woollen clothing

is practically to invite the depredations of the

moth. All serge, cloth, tweed and woollen

dresses should be well beaten and thoroughly

brushed with a good clothes-brush and then

himg out in the open air for a few hours before

being packed away. Nothing should ever be

put awaj' dirty, and care should be taken that

all the garments are thoroughly dry, as mildew

is apt to form upon clothes which are put away

damp for any extended period. All the necessary

cleaning and repairing should be done before

laying clothing aside for the season.

Plenty of tissue paper should be placed

between the folds of Ught silk and satin dresses,

and stuSed into the sleeves to make them keep

their shape. All cotton and musHn dresses

should be washed and rough dried before being

put away. WTiite cotton and muslin dresses

should be rinsed in blue water to keep them a

good colour. No starch should be allowed to

remain in any cotton dress that is put aside for

the winter, ^^^ben qmte dry, fold the garments

away carefullj'. If wliite garments are folded

between sheets of blue tissue paper tliis will help

to preserve their coloiu*.

Furs. - Before putting furs away they should

be well beaten with a very Ught cane or riding-

whip to free them from dust ; then they should

be hung out in the open air for several hours.

Tliey should not be put away damp, as damp,

like dust, renders them Uable to the attacks of

the moth. They should be well powdered with

cayenne pepper and then placed in tliick brown

hoUand bags, which, in their turn, should be sewn

up in brown paper. Camphor or naphthaline

sewn up in tiny muslin sachets and placed inside

the hoUand bag with the furs may be used instead

of the cayenne pepper. Camphor is very popular

as a moth preventive, but naphthaline is much

more effective, only its clinging odour is some-

what against it for this purpose. Some strips

of Russian leather placed in the bag with the

furs will also be found useful in resisting the

inroads of the moth. It is an advantage if the

furs can occasionally be taken out of their

coverings in the summer and hung out in the

sunshine. In fact, where there is sufficient

wardrobe and cupboard accommodation to allow

of their being hung up with plenty of space,

and \v-here the cupboard is warm and diy and

free from damp, it will be quite sufficient to put

them away in the cupboard without packing

them, taking them out and shaking them as

often as possible. A few balls of naphthahne

might be placed upon the cupboard sheh-ec.

Fur -lined coats and cloaks should be well

sprinkled with cayenne pepper and stored in

special boxes lined with tar paper. Chinchilla

is too deHcate a fur to bo either beaten or shaken.

In the case of really valuable furs, it is much

better to send them away to a furrier to be

cleaned and stored for the ■winter. The charges

for fur warehousing are moderate, and the

freedom from anxiety afforded by the knowledge

that they are in expert care is well worth the

small outlay entailed.

CARE OF MEN'S CLOTHES

Men's garments soon become shabby -looking

if they are not properly cared for. Coats,

waistcoats and trousers should be well brushed

when taken off, and then carefully folded or hung

in a wardrobe. Trousers should be placed in

trouser -presses, or if these are not available they

should be pulled out lengthwise, folded down the

front of the leg and folded over before being put

Trouser-Press.

away. A very good plan is to place the trousers

so folded under the mattress of a bed, as the

pressui'e "i/hus afforded answers the same pur-

pose as that of trouser-stretchers, and helps

to prevent them from becoming baggj' at the

knees. Lajnng a damp cloth over the trousers

after they have been folded down the front of

the leg, and then carefully pressing them ^ith a

moderately warm iron is also effective. They

should only be folded down the front before being

ironed, and not folded over until afterwards.

Coats and overcoats should be hung on hangers.

Small single hangers can be had from any

draper for from 2d. upwards.

Mending. - All men's garments should be kept

in thorough repair ; that is to say, all the small

mending, such as sewing on buttons, repairing

button-holes, darning underUnen and socks,

should be regularly attended to. As men's socks

are sold in so many different colours nowadays,

it is always a good plan when buying new

socks to buy at the same time wool to match

them. It is a wise plan to stretch the heels and

toes of socks and lightly darn them before

use ; they will be found to wear much longer

in this way. (For general hints on Mending,

see p. 407.)

All flannel and linen under -garments should be

carefully gone over when they retm-n from the

laundry, and buttons sewn on and any other

necessary small repairs executed before they

are put awajs as nothing is more annoj-ing to a

man when taking clean clothes from liis chest of

drawers to find that there are buttons laclcing

316

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

or holes undamed. Frayed collars and cuffs

of sMrta should be neatly clipped with a sharp

pair of scissors. If the linen fronts and collars

and cuffs of sliirts have become very shabby

and worn, they can be sent to have new fronts

made. Most laundresses will undertake this re-

novating work for quite moderate charges.

If, however, the shirts should be of the cheapest

kinds sold, it might pay better to buy new

ones. Cheap underwear is even a greater

mistake ^vith men than with women. Shirts

in particular require so much treatment in the

way of dressing and glazing at the hands of the

laundress, that the very cheap kinds never wear

satisfactorily, neither do they ever look as

well when laundered as the better garments.

(For Washing Shirts, see p. 295.)

Renovating Shabby Coats, Waistcoats, and

Trousers. - There is nothing Uke rock ammonia

dissolved in warm water for cleaning and re-

novating men's garments which have become

shabby -looking and shiny. Use a good-sized

lump of ammonia to about a pint of water, and

when it has dissolved dip a clean whisk brush,

or a clothes-brush with firm bristles, into the

solution and thoroughly brush the garment ;

then hang in the open air to dry. If pressing

is required, do tliis with a moderately warm iron,

ironing the garments under clean brown paper.

Velvet coat collars can also be cleaned by care-

fully sponging with ammonia solution.

Rente and tears in men's coats, overcoats,

waistcoats or trousers cannot be satisfactorily

darned at home. The garments should be sent

to a etoppeur who is able to match the thread

of the tweed or cloth, and repair the garment in

such a manner that the darn is imperceptible.

Hats should be carefully brushed every day

with a soft hat-brush. After being out in the

rain the surface of a silk hat will often become

rough and untidy-looking. To remedy this,

pass a hat -brush which has been damped with

cold water gently round the hat in the direction

of the nap. This will distribute the moisture

evenly. When the whole hat is thoroughly

damped, brush evenly round with a hard brush.

Leave the hat for a few hours, and when it is

thoroughly dry, brush with the soft hat-brush

as usual.

Wlien a silk hat has become dull -looking

through constant wear, it should be sent to the

hatter's to be ironed. This is usually done for

a very moderate charge, and is more satisfactory

than ironing at home. Sometimes, however,

brushing with a hot brush will have the required

effect. Silk hats which have become soiled and

greasy can be cleaned with a piece of clean

flannel dipjied in a solution of ammonia and

water ; gently wipe this round the hat in the

direction of the nap. The whole cleaning and

ironing process will be undertaken by a hatter

for a trifling consideration. They also do the

work very promptly, usually getting the hat

ready wliile the customer waits. On the whole,

a great deal of trouble is saved in this way.

Felt hats are also cleaned with ammonia.

Boots and Shoes should not be allowed to

Utter a man's dressing-room. A small trunk or

suit-case stand usually forms part of every

dressing-room equipment. The suit-case is

Suit-Case Stand.

placed on the top of this, and the boots neatly

ranged on the shelf underneath. Faihng this,

they should be put away in a cupboard or on

shelves made for the purpose. All the boots

should be placed on trees when not in wear, and

if put away for any length of time, they should

be well vasehned to prevent the leather from

cracking.

Ties and Collars. - Collars should be kept in

special round collar-boxes ; ties should be folded

neatly when taken off, and put away in a tie-

case.

CLEANING AND DYEING

Cleaning and dyeing play an important part

in the renovation of clothes, and old garments

should not be thoughtlessly cast aside before

the possibiUties in this direction have been well

weighed and considered. A dyed dress may

be renovated and altered in more ways than one,

so much so as to present the appearance of a

totally new garment. Where a woman is an

adapt at fasliioning her own gowns, she will be

able to effect much saving in this way. If,

however, she has to have all her dressmaking

done for her, then before planning extensive

renovations of the kind, she would do well to

take pencil and paper and calculate exactly

what it will cost her. In addition to the dyer's

account, dressmakers' charges will be found to

considerably swell the sum total, which would

in these circumstances sometimes amount to

almost the cost of a now garment. For this

reason a woman should either carry out the

renovating of dyed garments herself, or if she

is unable to do this, she should engage a good

visiting dressmaker and needlewoman by the

day and help her with it. It does not always

pay to send out renovations unless the dress

was originally a very expensive one. Dress-

makers as a rule have not much liking for this

work, they prefer new and more straightforv/ard

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

317

dressmaking ; and for this reason, apart from

the question of expense, their work in this

direction is seldom satisfactory. There are ex-

ceptions to this rule, of course, but one is more

liable to come across the rule than the exceptions.

Formerly to send clothes to the dyers or

cleaners was somewhat of an undertaking, as

each garment had to be religiously unpicked

and taken to pieces, and when it came back

from the cleaners, there was all the work and

worry of putting it together again. Nowadays

cleaners undertake to clean garments of the

most elaborate character without so much as

impicking a stitch of tliem. Cleaning has, in

fact, been raised to almost the level of a fine

art ; what is known as the " dry cleaning " pro-

cess has been almost universally adopted, and

all danger of the shrinking of cloth and woollen

garments has been practically obviated. The

most delicate fabrics pass successfully through

the expert cleaner's hands.

In dyeing, however, the possibiUty of slight

shrinking must always be reckoned with, and a

woman should make allowances for this when

planning out the renovation of a garment in this

way. The time taken by professional cleaners

to clean garments usually amounts to from

eight to ten days, whilst for dyeing a fortnight

is usually required. The latter rule does not

apply, however, to garments which are being

dyed black for ptu-poses of moxirning. All dyers

give special concessions in regard to exceptional

circumstances of the kind, and most of them

can undertake to get the garments ready

within two or tliree dnys.

Hints for Home Cleaning. - A great deal in

regard to cleaning may be successfully under-

taken at home. For this purpose there should

always be a good amount of Fuller's earth,

ammonia and benzine in the store cupboard.

Special care must, however, be taken in regard

to the storing of the two latter articles, as

ammonia in its pure state is explosive when

too much shaken, and benzine is inflammable.

Petrol is also exceedingly useful for the home

cleaner, but on account of its dangerous proper-

ties it should only be procured in small quantities

as required ; and it should never on any account

be stored at home.

Cleaning Lace and Silk Yokes, Vests, Trim-

mings, &c. - It often happens that a cloth dress

will have a white lace or net yoke, or vest, or

other similar trimming which would naturally

become dirty long before the dress is soiled.

One dof^s not care to send a whole dress to the

cleaners for the sake of the trimming, more

especially as the latter may be cleaned at home

as follows ; -

Lay the dress on a table over which a clean

cloth has been spread ; cover all the dress over

with a cloth excepting the portion which is to be

cleaned, then with a piece of flannel soaked in

petrol rub all over the soiled part. Go over

it again with a piece of clean flannel dipped in

petrol, and leave in the open air to dry. Petrol,

it must be remembered, is extremely dangerous

in careless hands, as it is most inflammable ; for

this reason the cleaning should only be under-

taken in the daytime, and in a room where there

is no fire.

White Non- Washing Silks may be cleaned by

rubbing with stale bread-crumbs mixed with a

Uttle powdered blue. White silk and other light

dresses which have only been slightly soiled can

be made quite fresh again by rubbing with stale

bread-crumbs. Silk, serge, and cashmere dresses

may be freshened by rubbing with a solution

of fig leaves, made by boiUng a handful of fig

leaves in about a quart of water, and straining

off when cool.

Taking Stains from Garments. - One* general

rule to be observed in taking stains from

garments is this : - When rubbing with the

cleansing preparation rub always in a circular

direction, beginning in a circle just outside the

stain round the outer part, gradually working in

towards the centre. This prevents the stain

from spreading any further.

Most stains, such as grease stains, fruit stains,

and wine stains, may be removed from very fine

garments by rubbing with a flannel dipped in

ether. This may be obtained m small quantities

from most chemists at prices varjang from six-

pence and upwards.

To Remove Paint Stains. - Rub when fresh

with turpentine apphed on a piece of flannel.

If the stain is an old one, mix ammonia with the

tiirpentine. Paint spots on velvet or velveteen

can usually be removed with paraffin or pure

alcohol.

To Remove Grease or Wax Stains. - Lay the

garment out on a table over a clean ironing-

sheet, place a piece of blotting-paper both over

the stain and underneath it. Iron with a

moderately hot iron. The blotting-paper will

be found to absorb the grease and the stain

will disappear. Good brown paper may be used

instead of the blotting-paper with successful

results.

Cleaning Light Blouses. - A simple and easy

method of cleaning hght blouses at home which

has been proved successful is as follows : -

Take an ordinary hat box and Une it %rith

clean white paper, cover the bottom of the box

with a layer of Fuller's earth. Place the blouse

in this, covering it with another layer of Fuller's

earth. Cover this with a sheet of white paper ;

close the box, rendering it as air-tight as possible,

and put it aside for foiu* or five days. When

taken out of the box and shaken, the blouse

will be found to be perfectly clean.

Renovating Shabby Garments. - Faded and

shabbj' -looking stuff garments may be much

improved by careful sponging with hquid

ammonia. For all black fabrics ammonia is

the best cleanser.

318

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Cleaning Light Cloth Garments. - For cliiklren's

light cloth coats, &c., a little fig dust well rubbed

into the niat<^rial, and allowed to remain on for a

few hoiu" before being brushed off, is an effective

cleanser. For hght cloth trimmings, cloth ball

is also very useful. This may bo obtained from

any drapers for an outlay of from lOid.

ink Spots on Cloth. - ^\Vhen a cloth or stuff

dress becomes stained with ink, the stain should

never be allowed to dry into the material.

Pressing blotting-paper on the wot stain will

often be sufficient to absorb it. This, however,

must be done at once if it is to be efficacious.

Another way of removing ink stains from cloth

is to sponge at once with milk, then with warm

water ; dry with a soft cloth, and iron on the

wTong side of the material. (For taking out

ink spots on cotton or hnen, see p. 279.)

To Raise the Pile of Velvet.- WTien velvet has

become shabby it may be renovated by holding

the wrong side of the velvet over a jug of boiling

water ; tliis will cause the pile to rise. Another

and perhaps a more effective method is as

follows : -

Cover the flat part of a very warm iron with

a damp cloth. Get some one to hold the iron

for you, and then grasping the velvet firmly at

each end p"i8S it backwards and forwards on the

wrong side across the cloth. The steam from

the cloth will cause the ^5ile to rise, and the

velvet will become almost like new. (For

Washing Vrlveteen, son p. 289.)

To Wash White Coque Feather Boas. - Dis-

solve some Lux into a basinful of warm

water, stir it into a lather, and place the boa

in tl is, gently pressing tho feathers between the

fingers ; rinse in clean water, shake well, and hang

in the open air to dry in the simshine. The

feathers will have a straight appearance when

wet, but will resume their fluffy appearance as

soon as dry. They should be well shaken before

hanging them up. In winter they should be

shaken before a fire and then hung near it ;

only not too close, as they are liable to get

scorched.

To Clean Ostrich Feathers. - Shake them well

in a lather of Lux and water, or soap and

water. Dry slowly before the fire, and curl

the feathers with a blunt penknife.

To Clean White and Light Felt Hats. - Rub the

hat all over with calcined magnesia applied with

a small soft brush ; put the hat aside for a day or

a night, then shake the powder off. If the hat

is found not to be perfectly clean after the first

appUcation, repeat the treatment. For white

felt hats, bran moistened with petrol and rubbed

all over the hat makes a particularly effective

cleanser.

Renewing Black Chip Hats. - After removing

all dust from the hat with a soft brush or a

piece of velvet (a velvet cushion such as is used

for polishing patent and glac(?i shoos would do),

rub in a little olive oil with another piece of old

velvet.

Straw Hats. - Wlute straw hats may be cleaned

by rubbing with cut lemon, and afterwards

rinsing in cold water. The straw should then

be stiffened by brushing with a brush dipped

in a solution of gum and water. To whiten

wliite straw hats which have become scorched

by the sun, dissolve a tea-spoonful of oxalic acid

in half a pint of warm water and brush evenly

round the hat, rinse and put in the open air to

dry.

Black straw hats, after being thoroughly

brushed to take the dust off, may be cleaned by

applying black ink and liquid gum mixed in

equal proportions with a small brush.

To Dye Straw Hats which have become irre-

trievably scorched by the sun or discoloured,

brush all dust off with a good stiff brush, and

paint the hat all over with hat dye or Aspinal's

enamel of tho shade required, using a colour

brush for the purpose.

To Paint White Shoes Gold or Silver.- White

kid and leather shoes which have become very

soiled may be dyed gold or silver. To do this,

purchase sixpenny-worth of gold or silver paint,

and paint evenly all over the shoes with a paint

brush. Leave them in the air to dry.

Tarnished Gold Braid may be freshened by

rubbing with a little Fuller's earth.

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

319

To Clean Furs. - Furs may be cleaned by

rubbing with warm bran. The bran should be

placed on a piece of white paper in the oven to

dry. It should not be overheated, or the furs

will be spoiled. The white paper wiU form an

excellent guide in this direction, for if it becomes

the least bit brown it will be a sign that the

bran has become too much heated. It should

be well rubbed in and then shaken or brushed

out. Fig dust may be used in the same

way.

Cleaning White Furs. - Powdered magnesia

warmed in the oven is a good cleanser for white

and light furs. It shotild be weU rubbed into

the fur and then shaken out. After the first

shaking it wiU be found advantageous to leave

the furs in a box for a day or two, and then

thoroughly shake out once more. For the

coarser white furs ordinary flour warmed in the

oven makes a very good cleanser. Spread some

clean paper on the table, place the fur to be

cleaned upon it, and well rub in the warm flour

into the hairs. When the fur appears to be

clean, shake well and lay aside in a box for

twenty-four hoiu-s, when most of the surplus

flovir will be found deposited in the bottom of

the box. Shake again thoroughly, and the fur

will be ready for wear.

DRESS ALLOWANCES

It is wise of parents to give their daughters a

dress allowance as soon as they attain a certain

age, making them responsible for the pvirchase

and upkeep of their wardrobe. Tliis plan tends

to give young people a practical insight into the

value of money wliich will stand them in good

stead when they in turn have to take the cares

of a home upon their shoulders. Every woman

should allot a certain sum of money each year

for expenditure upon dress, and be careful that

this sum is not exceeded. System in this as

well as other questions of apportionment of

income is essential where economy has to be

practised. " I cannot say what I spend upon

dress," a woman will often be heard to remark.

" I buy new clothes when I need them, but my

wants do not amount to much, and my ex-

penditure must be very small." If this woman

would make up her mind to note down carefully,

say for a period of threo months, her dress

expenditiure she would be astounded at the

substantial total to which small sums expended

here and there upon what seemed at the time

to be mere trifles have amounted, and she will

then begin to reaUse the necessity of the fixed

dress allowance as a factor in restraining all

unnecessary expenditiu'e.

Tlie cost of a woman's wardrobe will depend

upon the social circle in which she moves, and

/ the appearance which she has to keep up ; also

' upon the extent of her aptitude with her needle,

her ability to cut out, fashion, and renovate

garments for herself, and the care she takes of

her clothes. Much saving may also be effected

by the woman who knows how to spend her

money judiciously.

Buying at Sales. - The woman who has only a

small dress allowance often makes the mistake

of expending it upon cheap articles which may

be good for show at first, but wliich are certainly

bad for wear, and in her hankering after cheap

finery she neglects essentials, with the resrilt

that she is never weU dressed. " Little and

good " should be the motto for the woman

to whom sliillings and pence are a matter of

moment. She should know what to buy, and

when and where to buy to the most advantage.

The clever woman makes a point of buying the

more expensive items of her wardrobe at the

sales of the large drapery establishments. In

the case of firms of high standing and repute,

these sales are always genuine, and some really

amazing bargains may be had during sale time.

The large winter sales occur in January or

February, and the summer sales at the end

of July and in August. At the winter sales

especially some wonderful bargains in coat and

skirt costumes may sometimes be found. Very

often a costume which was originally priced

at seven or eight guineas will be marked down

to as low a figiu-e as £3, 3s. It will, in several

cases, be of the latest style and cut, and one

is sometimes puzzled as to the reason for the

reduction. This may be due to the fact that

the dress is of a coloiir only becoming to tho

few. Well, if it is secirred by one of the

few, that one will have every reason to be

satisfied with her purchase. Care, of course,

must be taken to choose a costume which will

not " date " too quickly. Summer dress

materials may also be purchased to wonderful

advantage at sale times. The bargain -hunter

at the sales must show method in her shopping

if she wishes to make it a success. She should

know what she wants to buy, and make up her

mind to buy it, and not be led into spending

her money upon those innumerable Httle un-

necessary trifles which appeal to her natvu-ai

feminine love of finery, and so prove such

formidable weapons in the armovu-y of the

expert salesmen at this season. After the sales

are over, many a woman finds herself the

possessor of a number of useless little odds and

ends she does not want, but which she felt she

must buy " because they were so very cheap."

Sales are the rocks upon wliich many good

resolutions for economy are wrecked ; on the

other hand, they are inexpressible boons to the

sensible woman shopper who knows how to

shop upon a scientific basis. She has two tilings

always before her - her requirements, and the

limitations of her purse. This being so, she is

careful to purchase onlj- what she really needs,

and thus she is able to eke out her allowance by

careful and judicious buying at tliis period. If

320

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

all women kept these two essentials well in mind

at sale time, they would find that they could

expend their money to great advantage.

The inability to " cut her coat according to

her cloth " is the reason why a woman so often

finds herself unable to make both ends meet on

a small dress allowance. She is ever striving to

\'ie in her dress with other women who enjoy

double her income, and her efforts are doomed

to failure at the outset. It is not much use, for

instance, to spend all one's allowance on an

expensive gown, only to have it ruined by

wearing it in wet weather through not having

sufiicient money to provide either a good coat

to cover it, or a tailor-made for ordinary occa-

sions, and the appearance of the smartest gown

is spoiled by shabby shoes or inferior gloves.

A woman with little money to spend on dress

must set a standard for herself, and not be led

into trjang to follow the standard of others, for

this invariably leads to disappointment. It is

8\u"prising on how little money a woman can

dress well if neatness and serviceabiUty are the

two objects she keeps in view, leaving the taste

for indulging in the extremes of fashion to the

woman who can afford to indulge herself in this

direction.

But whatever her income, a woman with the

exercise of a Uttle forethought can avoid being

old-fashioned and out of date in her dress.

Even if she can only afford one new costume

every two years, she can at least take care that

what she buys is not only in fashion at the

moment, but that it is not of a fashion so striking

that it is doomed to be short-lived. Ordinary

styles last generally well into two seasons. The

first season they are adopted by a few - the

second season they become general. It is an

unwise plan to only adopt a style after it has

become general, for this is a sure indication that

it will die out very soon, and for a woman whose

dress has to leist her for two years, this is not a

promising outlook. A woman therefore should

strive to show some originality and some de-

cisiveness in her choice of dress, and not be

content to follow bUndly where others lead.

She must not disregard fashion altogether be it

Sfidd ; to do so would be to make oneself con-

spicuous, and the well-dressed woman is never

conspicuous ; but she should shun all styles

which do not suit her, avoid all dress unsviitable

for the position in life which she occupies, re-

membering that to be suitably dressed is to

have solved the art of dreasing well.

How to make her dress allowance suffice for her

requirements is therefore a problem with which

many a woman is confront^^d. A good manager,

however, will by dint of careful contriving suc-

cessfully cope with all her difficulties, very often

making £15 a year go as far as £30 would go in

less experienced hands.

The successful management of a dress allow-

ance will depend to a great extent upon how far

a woman can dovetail her requirements, making

the purchases of one year fit in with those of the

next. For instance, where she is only able to

buy one new dress in a year, one year she will

buy a good outdoor costume - the next year she

will expend the money on an afternoon dress,

each doing duty therefore for two seasons.

In this way she will be able to balance each

year's expenses to a nicety, instead of spending

only half her allowance one year and three times

the amount of it the next.

It is difficult to set down hard-and-fast rules

for expenditure upon dress in the year ; as has

been said before, the successful expenditure of a

dress allowance resolves itself into a question of

good management. As a guide, however, for

those to whom the advice may be useful, we

append some specimen lists of expenditure

covering annual sums of £15, £25 and £40 a year.

These amounts may be taken to be fairly repre-

sentative, and the Usts will give at least some

general idea of judicious apportionment of the

money spent upon the various articles detailed.

SOME SPECIMEN DRESS ALLOWANCES

£15 A Year

£ a. d.

Costume 300

Dress 200

Coat or cloak 110

Boots and shoes 2 0 0

Underclothing 3 0 0

Hats 10 0

Blouses 1 10 0

Gloves, veils, &c 10 0

Boot-mending, cleaning, &c 9 0

£15 0 ~0

In regard to the item £3 for a costume, this can

be spent on a winter costume one year and the

next year a best summer dress, costing £2, and

two cotton dresses or Unen skirts at 10s. each

can be purchased. In regard to the £2 allotted

for a dress, tliis can be expended upon an

afternoon toilette one year, and on an evening

toilette the next. It is always necessary to

allow a good sum for boots and shoes, therefore

£2 will not be a bit too much to put by for these,

and the expenditure upon them will be pretty

nearly the same each year. The amount spent

upon underlinen will of course be varied accord-

ing to the amount of wear to be had out of the

articles purchased, and where a woman is able to

make part of her lingerie herself, the expenditure

will of course be decreased, for home-made under-

linen not only costs less, but wears much better

than that which is bought ready made. Any

surplus from the £3, therefore, in any particular

year, can be allowed for an umbrella or a sun-

shade, as the C£ise may be. Nine shillings is not

a very large amount to cover repairing and

DRESS- ITS CHOIOE AND CARE

321

cleaning, but it can be augmented occasionally

from any small sum that may bo left over from

other items. In regaxd to the £1, Is. allowed

for coat, this can be expended upon a good warm

serge coat, which would also do duty as a rain

coat one year, and the next year it might pur-

chase a plain simple little light cloak or coat

which would do duty for both day and evening

weax, only the purchase would have to be made

at sale time for anything Uke a presentable

garment at the price to be had.

Many other Mttle contrivances too numerous to

mention can be resorted to in order to eke out

a dress allowance of the amount named, but

ideas in regard to these will come of themselves

to the woman who takes the trouble to plan her

expenditure in a sensible manner.

With the above few notes as a guide, the

reader will be able to adapt the two following

specimen lists for dress allowances of £25 and

£40 a year respectively to suit herself.

£25 A Year

£ 8. d.

One good costume 4 0 0

Summer dress 2 0 0

One afternoon dress 2 10 0

One evening dress 2 10 0

One wrap or coat 1 10 0

Boots and shoes 2 5 0

Hats 200

Blouses 200

Underclothing 3 10 0

Gloves, veils, neckwear 1 10 0

Umbrella or sunshado 0 10 0

Cleaning, boot-mending, &c. . . . 0 15 0

£25 0 0

£40 A Yeak

£ 8. d.

One good costume 5 6 0

One best summer dress 3 0 0

Two lingerie dresses at £1 each ... 2 0 0

Afternoon dress 3 0 0

Evening dress 4 0 0

Wrap 2 10 0

Blouses 300

Underclothing (including dressing-

gown) 500

Boots and shoes 3 0 0

Hats 300

Gloves, veils, and neckwear .... 2 10 0

Umbrella or sunshade 0 15 0

Repairiugi cleaning, &c 10 0

£38 0 0

This leaves a balance of £2, which should be

set aside to be added towards the same balance

on the following year, and the two together with

any surplus from the lingerie or other items will

serve to purchase a useful so' of furs.

The above list allows for new winter costumes

and new summer dresses every year ; but of

course the winter costume of the preceding yetir

always comes in for morning outdoor wear, the

new toilette being kept for visiting and more

dressy occasions. The same may be said in

regard to the summer dresses. Where a woman

engages in motoring to a certain extent, she will

of course require a good motoring coat, bonnet,

and veil. By spending a little less on her

winter and summer dresses one year she will

be able to supply this, or else she might forego

the new wrap one year, and employ it on a

motoring outfit instead. This will last her a

good time, and will not reqiiire to be often re-

newed. A stylish evening or day wrap may often

be purchased for the small sum of £1, 15s. In this

case the surplus from the £2, 10s. allowed will

go towards the purchase of a rain or dust cloak.

Where a woman can make her own blouses

and summer and indoor dresses, her allowance,

of course, can be made to go twice as far again.

She should always be well in advance with her

new things at the very beginning of each season,

as in this Ues the secret of being up-to-date aa

far as dress is concerned.

THE BRIDAL TROUSSEAU

Upon no occasion perhaps does the question of

dress assume such importance to the girl and

women members of a family as when one of

their number is engaged in the preparation of

her trousseau. However poor and humble the

circumstances of the parents of the bride, they

will strain every effort, depriving themselves

even of necessaries if needs be, in order to see

that their daughter goes to her husband well

equipped in every way.

We have said good-bye to the days when every

girl, as soon as she reached the matvire age of

fifteen or thereabouts, would pass most of her

time laboriously putting the finest of stitches

into the finest of garments to be set aside in the

" bottom drawer " with sprigs of lavender

placed between their dainty folds, pending the

appearance of " Jlr. Right " upon the scene to

put the momentous question. How many a

trousseau prepared in this manner has been fated

to remain for ever undisturbed in the place into

which it was laid with so mvich care and tender-

ness and so many happy thoughts of that bright

future which looms golden in the mind of nearly

every girl. Marriage is not to-day the sole

idea of the young girl's hfe as it was in those days,

and in any case, however anxious a girl may bo

to get married and settle down in a home of

her own, she would never anticipate events by

preparing a trousseau before any man had asked

her to be his bride. Such an act indeed the

modern girl would look upon with superstition

as being unlucky - yet, when the momentous

question has been asked, and once she is engaged,

her thoughts are naturally full of the prepEurations

322

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

she must make in this direction. Her girl

friends will flock round her and beg to see the

pretty things that she has prepared. Small

wonder then that the engaged girl is anxious

that everything she has will be the daintiest and

the best procurable for the money her parents

can afford.

People are not making the mistake nowadays

of including a largo number of dresses of every

kind and variety in the trousseau. In most

cases half of those dresses would be quite out of

date before their owner had any opportunity of

wearing them, and she would be doomed there-

fore, if not very well off, to spend the first

few years of her marriage wearing demode

gowns.

A sensible idea adopted by many parents is

that of including several dress lengths in the

trousseau. These can be made up as required,

and v\-ill be found not the lesist useful part of

the trousseau. The number of dresses that will

be absolutely necessary depend upon the social

position the bride will be called upon to fill. For

the ordinary middle-clsiss girl of average means,

in addition to her wedding dress and going-

away dress, the following will usually be found

sufficient : -

One good outdoor costume.

One good coat and skirt for morning wear.

Two afternoon dresses.

One light evening dress.

One dark evening dress.

One fur coat, or dressy coat or wrap.

One evening cloak.

One morning dress or skirt to wear with

blouses.

Two or three light muslin and lingerie dresses,

bloxoses, &c.

With several dress lengths added, this list of

dresses should bo suflScient for all ordinary

requirements.

Where the wedding dress is afterwards used as

an evening dress, the light evening dress may be

dispensed with.

The specimen lists given below for trousseaux

which may bo purchased for an outlay of £65 and

£130 respectively are capable of much variation.

They are intended mainly as a guide to parents

with marriageable daughters as to what form

their expenditure should take. Tlie £65 trous-

seau includes only the essentials of a wedding

outfit, the various items mentioned being of

simple and plain yet at the same time of fairly

good quality. In the £130 outfit a little more

scope for finery is allowed. A substantial pro-

per* ion of the respective sums of money is allowed

for underlinen, as lingerie of the very cheap

variety is excluded from both lists.

Trousseau for £65

Wedding dress (to be used afterwards

as best evening dress) and veil .

8 8 0

£ 8. d.

Going - away dress (afterwards best

visiting costume) 5 5 0

Wrap suitable for both afternoon and

evening wear 2 10 0

Outdoor costume 4 4 0

1 dark evening dress 4 4 0

Good afternoon dress 3 3 0

Skirt for wear with blouses .... 1 1 0

Rain coat 110

Going-away hat 1 10 0

2 Hats at 12s. 9d 15 6

Blouses 200

6 pairs short gloves at 3s. 3d. ... 19 6

2 pairs long gloves at 5s. 6d. ... 110

1 pair very long gloves at 7s. lid. . 7 11

1 pair boots 16 0

2 pairs walking shoes at 10s. 6d. ..110

1 pair white evening shoes (for wear

with wedding dress) 10 6

2 pairs indoor shoes at 5s. 6d. ... 110

Umbrella 15 0

Sunshade 10 6

Lingerie

3 Night-dresses, longcloth and em-

broidery at 7s. lid 1 3 9

2 Night-dresses, fine nainsook and lace

at 12s. 9d 15 6

1 Night-dress, cambric and lace . . 15 9

6 longcloth chemises trimmed with

embroidery at 3s. lid 1 3 6

4 French hand-made chemises with

Valenciennes lace at 5s. lid. . . 1 3 8

2 fine cambric chemises with lace at

10s. 9d 116

6 Longcloth knickers at 3s. lljd. . . 1 3 9

4 French hand - made knickers at

5s. lid 138

2 Cambric and lace knickers at 8s. lid. 17 10

2 pairs corsets at 12s. 9d 16 6

3 Camisoles at 3s. 3d 9 9

2 Camisoles at 5s. 6d 110

1 Camisole at 7s. lid 7 11

4 Flannel or nun's-veiling petticoats

at 58. 6d 12 0

1 dozen pair stockings at 23. (six

cashmere, six fine lisle thread) .14 0

2 pairs spun-silk stockings at 3s. 6d. . 7 0

4 Wliite petticoats at 7s. 6d. ... 1 10 0

1 Lace or silk petticoat for wear with

bridal dress 110

1 Dark petticoat 7 6

6 Merino, woollen, or silk-spun com-

binations at 63. 6d. 1 19 0

1 Winter dressing-gown 10 0

1 Summer dressing-gown IS 0

2 dozen handkerchiefs at 10s. 6d. ..110

£63 13 6

This leaves a balance of £1, 6s. 6d., which may

be expended upon veils and neckwear. In

DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE

323

regard to the lingerie, if combinations are pre-

ferred to the chemises and drawers, the combined

garments will of course be cheaper than the

separate items. The above Ust represents all

articles actually bought in their complete state.

A substantial saving would be effected if the

bride, aided by the women members of her

family, could make some of the Ungerie and

simpler gowns herself. Many people cannot afford

even £65 for a trousseau for their daughters.

In these circumstances the help of the home

needlewoman is a necessity ; the wedding frock

should be of the very simplest, and the frocks

not home-made would have to be the plainest of

their kind. With the sum of £65 to expend,

however, with the addition of the help of really

clever home-workers and plenty of time in which

to prepare their work, a very good trousseau

indeed may be had. For a comparatively small

outlay upon materials, dainty Ught muslin

frocks, an extra afternoon frock, and even a

pretty tea-gown may be made without added

extra outlay. It is always advisable to have

the going-away dress and the outdoor costume,

made at a good shop. In regard to both

these a good tailor's cut is eminently desirable.

With the money saved on garments made at

home even a little extra expenditure may be

made in this direction.

There are, of course, many articles nowadays

of the ready-made species which can be had for

ridiculously low sums, and might perhaps cost

no more than those of home manufacture. In

regard to a bride's trousseau, however, every-

thing in it should bo good. For this reason

it is better to avoid purchases of the cheap

" ready-made " variety if making one or two

things at home wiU allow for an extra outlay

upon the garments which have to be bought.

£8, 8s. is not a very large sum to allot for the

wedding dress and veil, if the dress is to be made

at a good costumier's. If, on the other hand,

a known and tried dressmaker who makes

up ladies' own materials is entrusted with the

work, it can be made for even less, and the

surplus would go towards some other purchase.

If the wedding is to be a quiet one, the bride

being married in her travelling dress, £4, 4s. of

the sum allowed for the wedding dress might

be expended upon a good white evening dress,

the remainder being expended upon two pretty

muslin dresses or else two useful dress lengths.

As a rule, the bridal dress is worn as a best

evening gown afterwards, so the evening gown

allowed on the list should be a black one if

possible, as it is destined to play the part of a

serviceable dress.

Many bargains, and good ones, may sometimes

be had at sales both in regard to lingerie and to

dresses ; the discriminating shopper will be wise

to make judicious use of her opportunities in

this direction, and she will perhaps secure several

of the items at a good deal less than the figures

at which they are marked upon the following

lists.

Trousseau for £130

£ 8. d.

Wedding dress (to be used afterwards

as best evening dress) and veil . 10 10 0

Going-away dress (afterwards best

visiting costume) 7 7 0

Good fur-lined coat or fur stole and

muff '..770

1 Cloth outdoor costume 5 5 0

1 Serge or tweed costume .... 3 3 0

1 Long coat suitable for motoring or

rain coat 2 10 0

Demi -toilette dress 3 3 0

Evening dress 5 5 0

1 Afternoon dress 4 4 0

1 Evening wrap 3 0 0

1 Dress length, 6 yards cloth at 4s.

per yard 14 0

1 Dress length, 12 yards silk or satin

at 5s. per yard 3 0 0

1 Tea gown 300

Light muslin or voile summer dress .300

2 Linen costumes or cotton dresses at

£1, 10s. each 3 0 0

1 House dress 2 2 0

Going-away hat 2 2 0

Motoring and travelling hat and veil . 1 10 0

2 Hats at 12s. 9d 15 6

Blouses 400

1 pair boots 110

1 pair walking shoes 110

2 pairs walking shoes at 12s. 6d. ..150

2 pairs evening shoes at 10s. 6d. ..110

2 pairs house shoes at 7s. 6d. ... 15 0

Umbrella 110

Sunshade 15 0

6 pairs short kid and suede gloves at

3s. 3d 19 6

2 pairs short kid and suede gloves at

5s. 6d 11 0

4 pairs long kid and suede gloves at

6s. lid 17 8

Lingerie

6 Night-dresses at 7s. 1 Id 2 7 6

4 Night-dresses at 12s. 6d 2 10 0

2 Night-dresses at £1, Is 2 2 0

6 Chemises at 5s. 6d 1 13 0

3 Chemises at 7s. 6d 12 6

3 Chemises at 10s. 6d 1116

6 Drawers at 5s. 6d 1 13 0

3 Drawers at 7s. 6d 12 6

3 Drawers at 10s. 6d 1116

6 Spun silk, merino, or woollen com-

binations at 6s. 6d 1 19 0

6 Camisoles at 4s 14 0

5 Camisoles at 6s. 6d 1 12 6

1 Camisole at 10s. 6d 10 6

1 pair corsets 110

324

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

£ a. d.

2 pairs corsets at 128. 9d 15 6

1 Silk, satin or \axx> petticoat for wear

with wedding dress 2 2 0

1 Silk petticoat 110

1 iloirette petticoat 10 6

6 White petticoats at 7s. 6d. ... 2 6 0

6 Nun's-veiling or flannel petticoats

at 6s. 6d. 1 19 0

6 pairs cashmere stockings at 2s. 6d. . 15 0

6 pairs fine lislo thread at Ss. 3d. . . 19 6

3 pairs silk stockings at 10s. 6d. . . Ill 6

2 dozen handkercliiefs at 15s. 6d. per

dozen 1110

4 lace handkerchiefs at lOs. 6d. each .220

Good dressing-gown 2 0 0

£ 8. d.

Summer dressing-gown 110

2 Dressing jackets at 12s. 6d. each .15 0

1 pair quilted satin bedroom sUppers 3 6

Veils, neckwear, scarves, &c. . . 1 10 0

£129 6 8

The balance of 13s. 4d. may be expended upon

a pretty night-dress case, and a brush-and-corab

bag.

The trousseaux lists given comprise only the

clothing. Travelling bags, trunk and dress

baskets will of course make extra items in

each case. All luggage should be as neat as

possible.

SCHOOL OUTFITS

For a Girl

4 Night-dresses.

1 Dressing-gown.

1 pair bedroom slippers.

1 Night-dress bag and 1 brush-and-comb bag.

3 pairs woollen combinations.

4 pairs cotton combinations or 4 chemises and

4 pairs of drawers.

2 pairs knickers with 2 linings.

2 peiirs stays with suspenders.

3 Princess petticoats.

6 pairs stockings.

\\ dozen handkerchiefs.

3 Bath towels.

3 Face towels.

Toilet requisites.

1 Writing-case with paper, &o.

1 Cewh-box with lock and key.

1 pair school slippers, 1 pedr for better we"ur.

2 pairs walking shoes, 1 pair boots.

1 pair gymnastic or tennis shoes.

1 pair goloshes or overshoes.

2 Linen bags.

2 School dresses or 2 skirts with blouses.

1 Sunday dress.

2 Evening dresses.

1 Gymnastic costume.

1 Coat for everyday wear.

1 Coat for Sundays.

1 Waterproof.

1 School hat, 1 Sunday hat.

1 Evening cloak.

1 Umbrella.

2 pairs woollen or ootten gloves.

1 pair kid gloves, 1 pair evening gloves.

Ties according to regulation.

1 Rug.

1 Music case (flat).

The above list represents ordinary require-

ments ; special garments may bo necessary ac-

cording to the sports and games played at the

school. At fashionable schools a larger outfit

will bo necessary.

For a Boy

1 Sunday dress suit.

2 Tweed suits (longs or knickers according to

school regulations).

1 Overcoat. 1 Dressing-gown.

1 pair bedroom sUppers.

Toilet requisites, brush, comb, &c.

3 Wliite dress shirts, 4 flannel shirts.

8 Linen or flannel collars (according to school

regulations).

3 Sunday collars (according to school regula-

tions).

3 pairs underclothing (vests and drawers).

2 pairs boots, 2 pairs shoes, 1 pair slippers.

1 pair gymnastic shoes.

1 Rug. 3 Pyjama suits.

6 pairs socks or stockings (according to kind

of suit worn).

1^ dozen handkerchiefs.

1 Black necktie, 2 school neckties.

1 Tall hat and hat-box for Sundays.

1 Umbrella. 1 pair garters.

1 pair kid gloves, 1 pair woollen gloves.

1 School cap. 1 pair cuff links.

Cash- box and writing-case.

1 School muffler.

3 Bath towels, 3 face towels.

Extras for Winter Term

2 pairs football shorts (blue).

2 pairs football shorts (white).

2 Football jerseys.

1 Football blazer and belt.

2 pairs football stockings. 1 Sweater.

1 pair football boots.

Extras for Summer Term

4 pairs white shorts or longs (according to

school regulations).

2 pairs blue shorts.

4 Cricket shirts.

1 Blazer and belt.

2 pairs cricket shoes.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

The word " etiquette " simply means " ticket," and is the " label " attached by an unwritten

convention to the best observances in the social life of well-bred people. In tliis chapter the fvmda-

mental principles of etiquette are described, and the chief rules which govern its observance are

enumerated in a manner which it is hoped will be useful to many a woman who is in doubt how to

act upon various social occasions.

Tact. - It has been said that the essence of

all good breeding is tact. A tactful woman is

essentially a woman who knows how to adapt

herself to varying circumstances, who has that

keen perception which enables her to see and do

what is best upon occasions when discrimination

between the ^iVTong and the right methods of

action is necessary. A tactful woman is one

who will never hurt another's feehngs. She will

always respect the Uttle foibles of her friends

and refrain from holding them up to ridicule.

Wlien she entertains, she is past master in the

art of asking the right people to meet each other

and of making them all feel at their ease in her

society.

" I Hke going to Sirs. Brown's ; she does know

how to make you feel at home," is a phrase often

heard in speaking of a tactful hostess. On the

other hand, " You will not enjoy yourself at

Mrs. Jones'. There is always an atmosphere of

stiffness in her house. You never feel at home

there somehow," is a warning often given when

reference is made to a hostess whose disregard

for the comfort of her guests and want of tact

generally is proverbial upon these occasions.

There are some people who have a genius for

" rubbing their friends up the wrong way." The

society of these women as a rule is shunned.

Others are well known for their agreeable and

charming manners. These women become

popular with every one, no matter how plain and

homely their appearance may be. Comment is

often made upon the fact that plain girls as a

rule get married sooner than their fairer sisters.

The reason is not hard to seek. The latter have

grown into the habit of looking upon homage

and adulation as their right. " Self " is the

keynote of interest in their lives, and in the

worship of self they neglect to cultivate that

all-potent charm of manner founded upon true

innate unselfishness and tact, in which their

plainer sist^ers as a rule excel. When beauty

and tact are allied in on^ person, then her charm

825

is indeed irresistible, while sad indeed is the

case of the woman who possesses neither the one

nor the other.

Manners. - In the cultivation of tact, good

manners are essential. " Manners makj-th Man "

and woman too, for if good manners are so

essential to man, are they not then indispensable

to woman, whose great object in life is to please ?

A lady's manners should be perfect upon

all occasions. Manners cannot be donned

and discarded at will. To be ill-mannered and

churhsh in the home circle and keep one's best

manners, hke a visiting toilette, to be donned for

the benefit of strangers, is as iU-ad\'i3ed as it is

inefficacious. Politeness assumed in tliis way

inv£iriably comes with an effort, and is only too

often apt to degenerate into mere affectation.

Practise good manners with your own people

if you wish to shine before strangers. The

manners of a gentlewoman are always character-

ised by their perfect ease and naturalness, and

how can this ease be possibly acquired if poUte-

ness is only assumed for special occasions ?

Much of that stiff, artificial demeanour displayed

by so many of our young people is due to the

fact that, instead of being taught good manners

in their childhood, they are expected to assimilate

the whole of the rules of etiquette, poUteness

and good breeding in the few months which

immediately precede their coming out.

The effect of this mistaken training is lament-

able in most circumstances, for the polish ac-

quired in this way at the last moment is of so

thin a veneer that it very often only serves to

accentuate that native gaucherie which it wm

intended to conceal.

We all pay a silent tribute to the mother who

initiates her httle three -year-old toddler into

the mysteries of how and when to raise his

diminutive cap as soon as he is promoted to

knickerbockers. All mothers should pay particu-

lar attention to the manners of their children.

" As the twig is bent so will it grow," and by

326

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

dint of careful traiiung politeness becomes

innate with the little ones, so that when they

grow up their claim to the title of " gentleman "

or " gentlewoman " will be recognised by all

with whom they come into contact.

Etiquette. - Every gentlewoman should be thor-

oughly acquainted with that code of manners

which falls under the general designation of the

word " etiquette." To many people the word

etiquette conveys the meaning of mere empty

forms and ceremonies which can be honoured

just as well in the breach as in the observance.

This is a mistake. We have defined tact as a

keen perception for seeing and doing what is

best in varying circumstances. Etiquette tells

us what to do to keep within the rules of polite-

ness and good breeding. It is obvious, therefore,

that in the practice of tact a knowledge of

etiquette is all -important. jMany an otherwise

tactful woman has given offence by her ignorance

of social rules, more especially in regard to the

rule of precedence. A knowledge of etiquette

in these circumstances would have saved her from

making a mistake of a kind so often bitterly re-

sented by the person at whose expense it is

made.

Etiquette in Olden Times. - Every period of

liistory has had its recognised code of manners,

and though the etiquette of our forefathers

differed considerably from our own social rules,

yet the governing principles of true poUteness

have always had their foundation upon the

pr£ictice of true kindliness, courtesy and con-

sideration for others ; for " Manners are not

idle, but the fruit of loyal nature and of noble

mind."

It must bo said, however, that the ideas held

by our forefathers upon the outward observances

of refinement and culture as decreed by their

laws of etiquette, differed very considerably

from the standard of manners at the present day.

Customs invariably change, and with the change

of custom our ideas also undergo a considerable

metamorphosis, so that what was allowable in

former times would in many cases be looked

upon with horror at the present day. In the

same way our descendants will probably look

back upon the twentieth century as a period

of positive uncouthness as compared with the

standard of incre£ised cultiu-e they will have

attained.

In a little book, intended sw a guide to gentle-

women as to their behaviour and deportment

upon all occa-sions, which was published in 1086,

some interesting rules are laid down as to the

etiquette and suitable behaviour of the lady of

the 1 eriod. This ingenious little volume, which

bears the somewhat quaint title, " The Accom-

plished Ladies' Rich Closet of Rarities, or The

Ingenious Gentlewoman and Servant Maids'

Delightful Companion," casts a most interesting

sidelight upon the manners prevailing in England

Just after the reign of the *' Merrie Monarch."

Indeed, it may be taken for granted that they

were also de rigueur during that same interesting

period which has generally been looked upon

as ono of the most pictiu-esque epoclis of our

history, when courtUness and gallantry were

raised to the level of a fine art. Yet from the

manners of the times, as detailed in this book,

it will be seen that much was permissible in the

code of etiquette which prevailed in the seven-

teenth century which would be looked upon

nowadays with amazement and disgust.

For instance, the following precept laid down

for the observance of the lady in society, " If

you are abroad at dinner lot not your hand be

first in any dish," is decidedly reminiscent of a

time when knives and forks were not regarded

as indispensable to the dinner-table equipment.

And again, " Whenever you carve, keep your

fingers from your mouth ; throw not anything

over your shoulder," would suggest that it was

quite usual for a fair carver in the days of the

Stuarts to convey surreptitiously the dainty

morsels to her mouth through the medium of

her fingers, instead of placing them upon the

plates of her guests, and to summarily dispose

of any excess of fat and skin upon a joint by

promptly throwing it over her shoulder !

It requires an effort of the imagination to think

of the stately dames of the period behaving in

this fashion, and if such were the manners of the

gentler sex, what must have been the poUte

behaviour of those cavaUers of the long perfumed

ringlets and picturesque dress which outrivalled

in its richness and elegance the attire of their

ladies. Picture those effeminate white hands,

adorned at the wrist with dainty lace ruffles,

dipping for some coveted tit-bit in the gravy !

Evidently curiosity has always been the

besetting failure of the fair sex ; yet nowadays

no lady would require the following caution :

" Be not inquisitive (for that is uncomely) to

know what such a Fowl or such a Joynt cost,

nordiscourseof Bills of Fare "; - and even though

inordinate love of the good things of this viorld

might be her besetting sin, she would not require

to be told, " Take not in your wine or other

liquor too greedily, nor drink until you are out

of breath. Eat not your spoon meat so hot that

it makes your eyes water, nor bo seen to blow it."

Some rules laid down for the deportment of a

gentlewoman when out walking are worthy of

comment : -

" Observe that you walk not carelessly or

lightly, shouldering as it were your companions,

nor strutting or Jutting in a proud manner.

Keep your head steady, your countenance not

too much elevated nor too mucli dejected ; keep

your arms likewise steady, and throw them not

about a.s if you were flying. Let your feet

rather incline a little more inward than outward,

lest you be censured splay-footed. . . . Do not

run or go extreme fast in places of concourse,

unless great occasion require it, for in such

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

327

violent motions it is not always in your power

to keep your body steady ; nay, by too much

haste you may chance to fall ! " The following

caution, " Wink not too often, nor cast your eyes

ascance as if you squinted, neither keep them too

reserved, nor scornfully turn them away when

any object oSers," would seem to indicate that in

her beha\'iour out of doors the young maiden of

the period was often apt to go to somewhat

divergent extremes !

It is when we come upon a book of this kind,

handed down through so many years, that we

begin to realise the manners and habits of a by-

gone age. It indicates to us that then, as now,

a code of etiquette was absolutely essential to

the smooth working of society. The principles

of etiquette will always remain the same, but its

rules must needs vary with the passing of time

and fashion. Autres temps, autres moeurs - "and

other manners too " ; but the personal qualities

which make the effective foundation of all good

manners are necessary if the " polish " imparted

by etiquette is not to be only a superficial one.

Etiquette of To-day. - Though we do not now

need to have such quaintly elementarj'^ rules of

etiquette drawn up for o\ir observance, yet the

fact remains that it is against the simple rules

of good breeding that the woman of to-day is

too often apt to transgress. It is in little things

more than anj^hing else that good breeding tells,

and the gentlewoman who wishes to justify her

claim to that title should aim at making her

manners upon all occasions, whether in the

family circle or at social gatherings, in the

drawing-room, at the dinner-table, out of doors,

in private as in public, beyond reproach.

How a Lady should Behave out of doors. - In

her behaviour out of doors the gentlewoman is

quiet and unassuming. She shuns any exag-

geration of dress and fashion which would make

her conspicuous ; it is not her aim to attract the

eye of the crowd, but to escape its notice. She

does not sweep the pavement %vith trailing skirts

or address her friends in loud tones. Neither

does she attract attention by her boisterous

laughter. The aim of the gentlewoman is to

escape notice out of doors ; that of the ill-bred

woman to attract it. Therein lies the difference.

It is the lady's privilege to bow first, if she

should meet a gentleman of her acquaintance.

The bow should be a gentle inclination of the

head, not a jerky nod, nor a movement so slight

as to be almost imperceptible.

A lady should also be the first to offer to shake

hands. It is no longer fashionable to raise the

arm in an exaggerated manner when shaking

hands.

It is not necessary to make introductions

between friends out of doors, excepting in the

case of a lady being out with another lady with

whom she is staying on a visit. In this case

she would introduce any friends she might

meet to her hustess.

Driving. - A lady should always enter a carriage

before a gentleman. If two ladies are driving

together, the lady of highest rank should enter

it fiirst, unless she particularly expresses a wish

that her companion should do so.

A visitor should enter the motor car or carriage

before her hostess.

When two ladies and a gentleman are driving

together, the ladies should take the front seat,

the gentleman sitting with his back to the

horses. In a motor car the ladies should also

occupy the front seat.

A gentleman should be always the first to get

out of a motor car or carriage, in order to assist

the ladies to ahght.

Young ladies shotdd always leave the place

of honour in carriage or motor to the elder

ladies.

Etiquette of the Table. - In no circumstances

are bad manners more noticeable than when

displayed at the table, whilst, on the other hand,

it is at the table more than anywhere else that

good breeding tells. To eat badly is to commit

one of the greatest offences against the laws of

poHteness, and of all vulgarities \T.ilgarity at

table is without exception the very worst. A

woman's innate refinement will often protect

her in tliis direction, and she is as a rule less apt

to err against the rules of table etiquette than

a man.

Apart from the elementary rules of table

politeness, however, there are certain laws of

etiquette governing the manner of eating

articles of food which, though found as a matter

of coxirse on the dinner-tables of the rich, are

usually absent from the tables of those only

moderately blessed with this world's goods,

for the simple reason that they are luxvu-ies that

cannot be afforded in the poorer household.

It is in these circumstances that a woman

endowed with good breeding but little means

finds herself at a loss at times when asked to

join the dinner-table of her wealthier sister. A

woman of refinement will generally piill through

the ordeal without committing any very glaring

faux pas - for if any uncommon dish (to her)

is put upon the table, she will wait and watch

how the others eat it. But the very fact of having

to do this involves a certain awkwardness of

demeanour caused by over-anxiety to do the

right thing and to avoid a mistake.

A woman should not be placed in tliis equi-

vocal position, however perfect her imitative

powers may be. She should always know what

to eat and how to eat it. With the elementary

rules of table etiquette everj'^ gentlewoman is

acquainted, but for the benefit of those who are

not quite au fait we give here the principal rules,

elementary and otherwise, governing the impor-

tant question of manners at the table.

How to Eat. - WTien you have taken your seat

at the table, remove j-our gloves, unfold your

serviette, taking from it the piece of bread or

328

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

roll, wliich you place at your left-hand side, then

spread the ser\-iette over your lap.

As soon as you are served at table, begin to

eat ; to wait for others is now considered ill-

bred-

Soup aliould be eaten with a table-spoon, and

taken from the side of the spoon. When the

quantity of soup on the plate is so small that it

cannot bo easily taken up by the spoon with

the plate in its normal position, gently tilt the

plate - not toweirds you, but away from you - so

that it can be taken up more easily.

Rissoles, mince, and other similar-made dishes

should be eaton with a fork only.

All sweets, where possible, should be eaten with

a fork alone.

A spoon and fork may be used for frmt tarts.

Either the spoon or the fork should be raised

to the mouth for the purpose of receiving the

fruit stones. In the case of plums and other

large stone fruit, it is better to separate the stone

from the fruit with the spoon and fork before

putting the fruit into the mouth.

In eating asparagus, where no small asparagus

tongs are pro\nLded, a knife and fork should be

used, and the points should be cut off and eaten

with a fork.

Salad is always served on salad plates. It

should be eaten with a knife and fork.

It is, of course, needless to emphasise that

the bones of game or poiiltry should not be

taken up with the fingers.

The knife should not under any circumstances

be raised to the mouth. When eating cheese,

small pieces of cheese are placed upon small

pieces of bread and so conveyed to the mouth

with the fingers.

In eating artichokes the outer leaves are re-

moved with a knife and fork ; the inner leaves

can then be taken up to the mouth with the

fingers.

Savouries, when possible, should be eaten with

a fork.

Oysters should be eaten with a dinner-fork.

Hold the oyster shell on the plate with the left

hand, remove the entire oyster with the fork,

which is held in the right hand, and convey it to

the mouth.

Fish is always eaten with a fish knife and fork.

FaiUng these, it may be eat"n with a fork and a

crust of bread.

The skin and stones of grapes and cherries

should not be ejected direct from the mouth to

the plate. The hand should be raised to the

mouth to recei%'e them.

Strawberries when served without cream can

be takon up by the stalks in the fingers. When

served with cream, the stalks should be separated

from the fruit with a spoon. Strawberries and

cream are eaten with a spoon and fork.

Pears, apples, peaches and nectarines are eaten

with a fruit knife and fork. The fruit is held on

the fork with the left hand and peeled with the

knife, wliich is held in the right hand ; it is then

divided into halves and quarters.

Oranges are divided into halves and quarters,

and each quarter is peeled separately as required.

Pineapple is eaten \\ath a dessert knife and

fork, and melon with a spoon and fork.

Finger glasses containing water are placed on

doyleys on the dessert plates. Both finger glass

and doyley should bo removed at the beginning

of dessert, and placed at the side of the dessert

plate. Wlien dessert is over, the fingers may be

dipped into the finger glass and wiped with the

serviette.

General Hints. - ^Never crumble your bread or

fidget with the table service ; to do so indicates

that you are unaccustomed to good society.

When not eating, keep your hands away from the

table.

Do not fold your serviette after dinner at a

friend's house ; leave it on the table before you.

When staying on a visit, however, a serviette

ring will be allotted to you for ordinary occasions ;

then the serviette would be folded and placed

in the ring.

Never take a second helping of soup or fish.

A hostess should never unduly press a guest

to partake of a certain dish, however hospitable

her motive may be.

INTRODUCTIONS

A knowledge of the rules of etiquette govern-

ing introductions between friends is of the

utmost importance for every woman, no matter

what her social position may be. The chief

things to be remembered in regard to making

introductions are : -

1. Introductions should not be made indis-

criminately without regard for the wishes of the

persons who are introduced to each other. An

introduction which is unwelcome to either one

or the other of the parties should be avoided at

all costs, as the person who does not desire the

acquaintance may in some cases feel compelled to

show by her manner what her feelings are upon

the subject.

Before introducing one person to another,

therefore, always find out if the introduction

will be acceptable to both parties. If the per-

sons are of different rank, it will be sufficient to

consult the person of higher rank before making

the introduction.

2. Always introduce a gentleman to a lady

irrespective of any question of rank. Precedence

in this manner is one of the privileges of the sex.

Always mention the name of the person you are

introducing first, thus : " Mr. X - Miss Z," would

be the correct formula, Mr. X being introduced

to Miss Z. This mere mentioning of the names

of the party is sufficient, but when it is wished

to adopt a Icps formal mothod the person making

the introduction might say, "May I introduce

Mr. X to you. Miss Z ? "

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

329

3. If seated, a lady need not rise when a gentle-

man is introduced to her, unless that gentleman

is her host, or else some clerical dignitary to

whom she should show respect by reason of his

office.

4. Upon being introduced both bow but do

not shake hands. If a lady offers her hand to a

gentleman, it is an act of grace on her part.

When introductions are made between ladies, the

lady of lower rank should be introduced to the

lady of higher rank. An unmarried lady should

be introduced to a married lady, unless the

unmarried lady is of a higher rank than the

married lady. Ladies only bow to one another

as a rule upon being introduced, but should the

lady of higher rank offer her hand, it may be

taken as a mark of favour on her part. When

ladies are of equal rank, the younger lady should

be introduced to the elder one.

6. A hostess should shake hands with every

one introduced to her in her own house. When

a person introduces two of her very great friends

to each other it would be qiiite correct for them

to shake hands. In the same way when a

young girl is introduced to an elderly lady, the

latter usually shakes hands as a mark of

kindness.

6. At a dinner-party it is customary for the

hostess to present the gentleman to the lady

whom he is to take in to dinner. It is not neces-

sary for her to ask the lady's permission before

doing so.

7. After dinner the hostess uses her own dis-

cretion as to what ladies she will introduce to

each other in the drawing-room.

8. Gentlemen continuing at the table over the

" walnuts and wine " talk with each other with-

out introduction.

9. At afternoon At Homes, garden parties, and

similar functions the hostess should use her own

judgment as to what introductions should be

made. She should introduce gentlemen to the

ladies in order that the former may look after

the needs of the latter in the way of taking them

to the tea-room. Gentlemen should always

realise what is expected of them on these occa-

sions and act accordingly. Acquaintances made

in this manner do not involve more than a bowing

acquaintance afterwards.

10. The lady should always be the first to bow

to a gentleman upon meeting him on subsequent

occasions.

11. Ladies do not rise from their seats upon

being introduced to each other on ordinary

occasions, or At Homes, or in the drawing-room

after dinner.

12. In ball-rooms the real responsibility for

introductions rests much more with chaperons

than with stewards. The latter can only

interpret according to their judgment the

advisability of introductions. If an introduction

is sought by a gentleman he is bound either to

dance, or at all events to jhow the usual civilities

of the supper -room, to the lady to whom he

sought to be introduced.

13. When two or three ladies call on the same

afternoon at the same house, the hostess gener-

ally feels it necessary to introduce them to each

other. Introductions so made will warrant a

bowing acquaintance.

Letters of Introduction. - It is not wise to be too

ready to give letters of introduction. Friends

feel bound to show special com-tesies and hospi-

tality to a person introduced to them in this

manner, however they may feel disposed towards

her.

Upon hearing that an acquaintance has the

intention of visiting some particular town, a

good-natured woman will often be heard to

exclaim, " Oh, I must give you an introduction

to Mrs. X. She is sure to give you a good time."

without pausing to think what IVIrs. X would

think of her suggestion. By giving introduc-

tions in this way, a woman must remember that

' she taxes both the coiirtesy and hospitality of

the friend to whom the introduction is addressed.

If her friend is in a superior rank of life, it is only

right to ask her permission before sending the

letter.

The letter of introduction should never be

closed, and the bearer should leave it with her

card without asking to see the hostess.

If the latter is well disposed, she should as soon

as possible send an invitation to dinner or aa

At Home, or any similar function.

THE ETIQUETTE OF VISITING CARDS

There is much in the etiquette of card-leaving

that is misunderstood, and many gaucheri&s are

habitually committed, through ignorance, in

contravention of the recognised rules governing

this important social custom. The leaving of

cards may be said to be the most efficient method

of regulating a lady's visiting list, forming an

unfaihng index to her choice of acquaintance.

It is also the means decreed by society for the

exchange of the various civiUties around which

the social wheel revolves.

The principal rules governing the etiquette of

cards are as follows : -

Style and Size of Lady's Card. - A lady's card

should always be plain in tj'pe, unglazed, and

free from any kind of ornamentation. In size

it should be from 3i to 3f inches wide and 2^

inches in depth. The name of the lady should

be printed in the centre of the card, and her

address in the lower left-hand corner. If she

has a country as well as a town address, the

second address may be printed in the opposite

corner. If she has an At Home day, tliis should

be printed or written across the top left-hand

corner.

A married woman should never have her

Christian name printed on her cards. If her

husband is the senior member of his fsmiily.

330

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

hor name would bo printed simply - " Mrs.

Brown." If he has a father or an elder brother,

then her husband's Christian name should be

used before the surname - " Mrs. James Brown."

How to leave Cards when making Calls. -

Ladies leave their visiting cards personally

when walking, not by servants or through the

post office.

When the Lady called upon is not at Home. -

When a married lady calls upon another married

lady and finds the latter " not at home," she

should leave her own card for the mistress of the

house, and two of hor husband's cards, one for

the master of the house and one for the mistress.

Excepting in the case of a first call, however,

a lady very often nowadays leaves only one of

her husband's cards in addition to her own, if

he is very well acquainted with her friend's

husband and they are constantly meeting.

When the lady called upon has a grown-up

daughter or daughters, the lady leaving cards

should turn down the right-hand corner of her

card to indicate that she wishes to include the

daughter (or daughters) in her call.

If the lady called upon is a widow, only one of

the caller's husband's cards should be left.

If the lady who is making the call is driving,

she should send her footman to inquire if the

lady called upon is at home. If he is told that

she is not at home, his mistress should hand liim

the cards to be left on her behalf.

When the Lady called upon is at Home. - When

the mistress of the house is at home, the lady

making the call should leave two of her hus-

band's cards on the hall table upon leaving. She

must not in this case leave her own card. If

her husband is very intimate with her friend's

husband and it is not a first call, it will only be

necessary to leave one of her husband's cards.

Cards are never sent up with the servant

when calling unless the call is of a strictly bzisiness

nature.

Leaving Cards upon Newcomers. - When new

people settle in a county district, the residents

should bo the first to either call or leave

cards upon them. This they can do without

having any previous acquaintance with the new

people. The latter should never, even if they

be of higher rank, call upon the residents first.

They should return call for call and card for

card, but if they do not wish to continue the

acquaintance, they can intimate this desire by

merely leaving cards in return for the call.

The custom of calling upon new people is

characteristic of county and country society,

but does not prevail in London and other large

citiett.

In leaving cards upon a friend who is the

guest of a person with whom the caller is im-

acqualnted, there is no need to leave a card upon

the hostess.

Except where the persons called upon are

living in hotels, it is " bad form " for visitors to

write upon the cards left the names of the persons

for whom they are intended.

Card Etiquette for Brides. - A bride should not

send out cards to hor friends or give an At

Home after the honeymoon is over. She must

wait for them to call upon her. A newly

married bride generally makes a point of being

at home in the afternoons during the first

fortnight after her return home in order to

receive the calls of her friends.

Difference between making Calls and leaving

Cards. - All the rules given above concern the

etiquette of cards in " making calls." But

there are instances in which cards are left apart

from the ordinary social function of paying

visits. In this case they are left as a mark

of civility or acknowledgment of civility or

hospitality received. When a card is simply

left it is not necessary to ask if the lady is at

home.

Calls should always be returned by calls and

cards by cards within a week or ten days at

latest, and care must be taken that a call is not

returned by a " card " only, or a " card " by

a " call." If a superior in rank should waive

ceremony and return a call for a card, this mark

of extra civility may be taken as a compliment

by the recipient. If, however, she only repays

a call with a card, it is obvious that she does not

wish to improve the acquaintance.

Great punctiliousness should be observed in

regard to the returning " call for call " and

" card for card " etiquette, otherwise, apart from

the gaucherie involved by ignorance of these

social rules, a slight may be conveyed where

there is no intention of showing one, and positive

offence given to the person slighted in this

manner.

Leaving Cards after Entertainments. - After the

following entertainments cards should be left by

all invited (whether present or not) witliin a

week of the entertainment : balls, weddings,

receptions, private theatricals, amateur concerts,

dinners.

Dinner Calls. - Only after dinner-parties need

you ask if the hostess is at home. In this case,

what is called a " dinner call " is made. In the

other cases card-leaving is sufficient. It is not

necessary to leave cards after a luncheon party

or an ordinary At Home.

Cards " To Inquire." - Cards to inquire after

friends who are ill are left in person, and must

bear simply the words written above the printed

name - " To inquire after Mrs. ." In the stage

of convalescence there comes in return through

the post an ordinary visiting card with the words

written above the name, " With thanks for kind

inquiries." In the case of an accouchement " to

inquire " cards are either left personally or by

servants.

P.P.C. Cards. - P.P.C. or Pour Prendre Conge

- " to take leave " - cards are usually loft upon

their friends by people who are going away

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

331

for a period of from three to six months, or who

are leaving a neighbourhood for good. These

cards should be left within a week or ten days

of departure, oither in person or by servants.

In large cities arrivers intimate their arrival by

leaving cards upon friends who otherwise might

not know of it. Ladies having a large circle of

acquaintances very often in these circumstances

send their cards to their acquaintances by a

man-servant, or in some cases give a list of

addresses to their stationers who undertake to

send the cards out.

Wedding and memorial cards are now out of

fashion.

Card Etiquette for Young Girls. - A young un-

married girl does not have cards of her own, but

has her name printed underneath her mother's

name on her mother's cards. This is also the

case where there are several young daughters

who are " out." It is always better form to

have each name printed separately under the

mother's name, though if there were foiu" or five

grown-up daughters the term " The Misses "

would be permissible.

When young girls are chaperoned in society

by friends, their names should be written in

pencil under the names of the ladies chaperoning

them on the visiting cards of the chaperons.

When a girl is on a visit without lier parents,

and wishes to call upon a friend, she should use a

card on which her name and that of her mother's

is printed, crossing out the mother's name in

pencil. Unmarried ladies past their first youth

should have their own visiting cards.

The Motherless Girl. - Very often through the

death of her mother a young girl suddenly finds

herself head of her father's house, and responsible

for all its social observances. Though used to the

routine of calls and card-leaving as discharged by

her mother, she will find that in her case circum-

stances are slightly different. There are rules

of etiquette governing a young girl's social

observances when left in this position, and she

should make herself au fait with these before

embarking upon the additional social duties

enforced upon her in these sad circumstances.

When a girl has no mother, her name is usually

printed under her father's name upon his card,

which in this case are of the style and size of a

lady's card.

When returning a call upon a married lady who

is not at home, one of these cards (with the name

of father and daughter) should be loft. If her

father is well acquainted with the husband of the

lady callod upon, there is no need to leave one of

his personal cards as well ; but if, on the other

hand, the two men are only slightly acquainted

with each other, it will be necessary to do so.

If the lady called upon is at home, only one of

the father's personal cards should be left.

In calling upon a widow, one of the cards with

the father's and daughter's names should be

left. If the widow hao a daughter, a comer

of the card should be turned down to include her

in the call. If the daughter is middle-aged, a

separate joint card of father and daughter should

be left for her.

Leaving Cards after Entertainments. - After

being invited to a ball, reception, or other similar

function given by married people, a joint card

of the father and daughter should be left within

a week of the function ; and as this comes under

the category of card -leaving as acknowledgment

of civiUty and hospitality, there is no need to ask

if the mistress of the house is at home.

After a dinner, however, a call should be

made, the father accompanying his daughter if

possible. If he does not do so she should leave

two of his personal cards on departure.

If an aunt or other relative of the motherless

girl should come to Hve with her, the social duties

would of comrse fall upon her as chaperon. In

this case the girl's name would be printed on

her chaperon's cards, and the etiquette observed

would be the same as during her mother's life,

until the chaperonage is dispensed with.

Gentlemen's Cards. - In size a gentleman's card

is usually 3 inches wide and 1^ inches deep. His

name should be printed in the centre of the card

and always with the prefix " Mr." (if he has

no higher title). Printing the Christian and

sin-name without any prefix, as in " James

Brown," is not considered good form. An

officer in the Navy adds R.N. or R.I.M. (Royal

Indian Marine) after his name, but no King's

Counsel, Member of Parliament or Doctor of

whatever faculty adds K.C., M.P., LL.D., D.D.,

to their card names. Baronets and Knights,

until recently, were simply " Sir James Brown,"

without Bart, or Kt., but since the Lord

Chamberlain's instructions that baronets attend-

ing Courts shoiild have their rank of baronet on

their cards, it is usual for them to indicate their

rank on their printed visiting cards. Officers

in the Army have the name of their club down

in the left-hand corner, and the name of their

regiment down in the right-hand corner.

In calling upon married people, a gentleman

leaves two cards - one for the mistress and the

other for the master.

A gentleman should not turn down the corner

of his card ; liis call is upon the host and

hostess, and not upon the young ladies of the

house.

Calls are not made nor cards left by a gentle-

man upon new acquaintances, however pleasant

they may have been to him at a dinner or ball

in another person's house, without a clear

intimation from the lady that a call at her

house would be agreeable to her.

The same rules apply to gentlemen as to

ladies with regard to leaving cards after enter-

tainments.

Bachelors call upon bachelors after receiving

hospitality, unless they are upon such intimate

footing as to dispense with ceremony.

382

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

INVITATIONS

There are certain pointa of etiquette to

be observed in regard to sending invitations.

In\'itation3, it must be remembered, are of

two kinds, formal and informal. Ail formal

in\'itations are printed on special cards and

worded in the third person - wliilst for in-

formal occasions, such as a luncheon party, or

a small tea party, the invitation usually takes

the form of a short note, or else it may be

written on a %4siting card. A hostess should

guard herself from falhng into the error of

issuing an informal invitation for a formal

occasion, or a formal invitation for an informal

function - for to do either would indicate that

she had a lack of that savoir faire which sets

a hall mark upon social entertaining.

Dinner Invitations.- Dinner invitations are

issued in the name of both the host and hostess.

If the host is a widower with a young daughter,

the invitations are issued in the name of both

himself and his daughter. In the case of a

brother and sister who hve together the invita-

tions would be issued in the name of both

brother and sister. The following is the usual

form for printed dinner invitations : -

"Mr. and Mrs. Black request the

pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. Brown's

company at dinner, on Tuesday, the

ith of January, at 8 o'clock."

The reply, if acceptance, should take the

following form : -

" Mr. and Mrs. Brown accept xoith

pleasure Mr. and Mrs. Black's kind

invitation to dinner on the Qth of

January."

Invitations to At Homes. - An invitation to

an At Home should be sent in the name of

the hostess only. At Home invitations are

printed upon At Home cards - the name of the

hostess, with the words " At Homo " under-

neath it, being printed in the middle of the

card, with the day and date underneath the

words " At Home." The address should be

printed on the right-hand corner at the bottom

of the card, and any amusement provided for

the guests should be added on the left-hand

corner. The letters R.S. V.P. may be written

or printed on the card, but in the case of an

afternoon At Home it is not usual to add them,

as answers as a rule are not expected to these

functions. If an answer is required, however,

the letters R.S. V.P. should be added. The

name of the person invited should be written

in ink on the top loft-hand corner.

Balls and Dances. - Invitations to balls and

dances are sent out on ordinary At Home

cards, the word " Dancing " being printed in

the corner of the card. The word ball should

never be used on the card, the same form of

invitation being used for both small dances and

large balls ontaihng a most lavish expenditxu-e.

An acceptance to a ball invitation is WTitten

on ordinary notepaper. The following is the

usual form of acceptance : -

"Mr. and Mrs. Black have much

pleasure in accepting Mrs. Brown's

kind invitation for Friday, the 6th

of yovember."

Garden Parties. - Invitations to a Garden

Party should bo issued in the name of the

hostess upon " At Homo " cards. Any outdoor

amusement provided, such as tennis, should be

written in the lower left-hand corner of the

card. It is also usual to add the words " and

party " after the name of the person invited.

When Garden Parties are given on a very large

scale, the invitation may take this form : -

"Mrs. A. requests the pleasure

of Mr. and Mrs. B.'s company at a

Garden Party on "

Weddings. - Wedding invitations are now very

plain. Black lettering is much more used than

the silver lettering which was formerly con-

sidered indispensable, although the latter still

has a certain vogue. Tlie invitations may be

printed on sheets of notepaper which form a

kind of combination of a notepaper sheet and

envelope, having a flap at the upper end which

is folded over and so posted ; or they may be

issued on a simple card with envelope to match,

or printed on ordinary notepaper. The word-

ing should be as follows : -

" Mr. at\d Mrs. Crane request the

pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. Mason's

company at the vianiage of their

daughter Laura, with Mr. Reginald

Dark, on Monday, \7th June, at St.

Paul's, Knightshridge., and after-

wards at 2 Eaton Square.

R.S.V.P."

Acceptances and Refusals. - Formal invitations

sent in the third person should be answered in

the same manner if the answer is an acceptance.

In sending a refusal it is always more courteous,

however, to give some explanation, and this

should in the case of intimate friends be written

in the third person. Thus : -

" Mr. and Mrs. X. regret that

absence from town prevents them

from accepting Mrs. Z. 's kind invi-

tation for the ith of November."

is more courteous than : -

" Mr. and Mrs. X. regret that they

are unable to accept Mrs. Z.'s kind

invitation for the 4th of July."

Although printed cards of refusal are in use,

it is always more courteous to send refusals in

writing. In some cases it happens that though

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

333

one member of the family invited to a dance

or other party is prevented from some reason

from accepting, yet the other members are able

to accept. The circumstances in a case of the

kind should always be explained by letter.

Thus:-

"Dear Mrs. X.-l regret that I

shall be out of town on the day of

your dance, or I should have much

pleasure in accepting your kind in-

vitation. My sister, however, will

be at home, and will be very pleased

to accept. - Yours sincerely."

GeDeral Hints regarding Invitations. - Formal

invitations need not be given to luncheon parties,

smaU informal At Homes, nor christenings.

One invitation card is sufficient for the

husband, wife, and daughters of a family, but

separate cards must be sent to the sons.

Invitations should always be answered

promptly.

In inviting a friend to stay with her on a

visit, a hostess shouJd always be careful to

specify the exact time the visit is to last.

The title, " the Honourable," is never written

on cards of invitation.

PAYING AND RECEIVING CALLS

Paying Calls. - A strict observance of the

etiquette governing the paying and returning

of calls is all -important, as any neglect or ignor-

ance of the rules of visiting exposes the oiTender

to the danger of receiving the " cold shoulder "

from her friends, so.netimes to the extent of

being excluded from all their dances. At Homes,

and other entertainments.

A mother with grown-up daughters should be

especially punctihous in this direction. Many

mothers, once their daughters have attained

years of discretion, show the inchnation to shift

most of their social duties upon the shoulders of

their girls. This is a great mistake. Once her

daughters are " out," a mother should be more

than ever on the alert in regard to her social

obligations if she h£is their welfare at heart.

It should be her endeavour to see that they get

asked out to the right places to meet the right

people, and that every opportunity is given them

of meeting desirable friends and making suitable

marriages. If she withholds these opportunities

from them by any laxity in the performance of

her social obligations, then she fails most

lamentably in one of her most important duties

towards them.

Etiquette for the Visitor. - All caUs should be

returned within a week or ten days. If the

person on whom the call is due has an At Home

day, the call should be made on her At Home

day. Afternoon calls, or " morning calls,"

as they ure often designated, are made between

the hours of ^ and 6 o'clock, a first or strictly

formal call being usually made before 4.30,

If driving when making a call, a lady should

send her footman to inqxiire if llrs. X is at

home.

If Iklrs. X is not at home, she should give him

the necessary cards to leave (see p. 330).

If walking when making the call, she should

ask the servant who answers the door, " Is ilrs.

X at home ? " If the answer is in the negative,

the necessary cards must be left (see p. 330).

If, however, the answer is in the affirmative,

the visitor should follow the servant to the

drawing-room, giving her name to the servant

to be announced.

Never give a visiting card to the servant when

the mistress of the house is at home.

The hostess will advance to meet the visitor

and shake hands with her ; the \'isitor should

then take a seat and engage in conversation

with her hostess.

A visitor should ciiltivate ease and self-

possession in conversation and manners. A

flurried manner will show that she is not accus-

tomed to go out much into society.

When a second guest is announced, the first

guest should take her leave as soon as possible

afterwards.

It is not necessary for a lady to rise when

introduced to another \a8itor.

Wlien one \isitor leaves, it is not necessary

for the other to rise. Visitors who have been

introduced to each other at an afternoon call

merely bow upon lea'vdng. They shoxild also

bow if they have spoken to each other without

being introduced.

When the visitor is a gentleman, he should

leave his hat and stick in the hall upon arrival.

Formerly it was the custom for men to take their

hats and sticks with them into the drawing-

room when making calls, but this has now been

superseded by the newer custom.

A gentleman visitor should hand round the

tea and cakes to the ladies. When a lady rises

to leave, he should open the drawing-room door

for her. He should of course rise each time

another visitor enters, as no gentleman should

remain seated whilst his hostess is standing.

Receiving Calls. - A lady should always be

careful to intimate to her parlour-maid early each

afternoon if she will be at home or " not at

home " to callers. When a servant is not sure

that her mistress is free to receive visitors, and

has to make the inquiry whilst the caller waits,

if she comes back with the answer " not at home,"

it might often be interpreted by the caller as

meaning that the lady called upon is at home to

other people but not to her. For this reason

it is always better to give definite instructions

as to callers early in the afternoon.

The mistress of a house cannot be too care-

ful in training her servants as to their correct

attitude towards callers. Even the soUtary

" general " can be made to understand that it

is great discourtesy to leave a caller upon the

334

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

doorstep whilst she goes to find out if her

mistress is in ; and yet this has been done time

after time in houses where the mistress is either

careless in regard to the training of her servants,

or else is notau fait herself in the social rules.

If a servant is in doubt as to whether her

mistress is " at home," she should ask the caller

to come in, saying, " Will you come in, please,

while I inquire," returning as soon as possible

with the answer.

\Mien the mistress of the house is at home,

the servant should reply to the inquiry in the

affirmative, stepping aside to allow the caller

to enter. On wet days she should reheve the

caller of her umbrella, any extra wraps, such £is

mackintoshes, cloaks, &c., and then preceding

her she should lead the way to the drawing-

room. Outside the drawing-room door the

servant should pause, making the inquiry,

" WTiat name, please ? " She should Usten

attentively to the name given by the caller, then

opening the drawing-room door wide, and

standing well inside the doorway - never behind

the door - she should announce the name of the

visitor clearly and distinctly. Should the

mistress, however, not be in the drawing-room,

she should merely say " My mistress will be

down directly," or words to that effect, and

should at once go to apprise her mistress of

the caller's arrival.

A servant should not knock at the drawing-

room door before ushering in visitors.

The hostess should never keep a caller waiting

whUe she hastily dons another dress. If she

has intimated to her servant her intention of

" being at home " she should naturally be pre-

pared to receive \'isitors, and should if possible

bo in the drawing-room during the calUng hoiu-s.

If she is in the drawing-room when the caller

is announced, she should rise to meet her, shake

hands, and offer her a chair near her own. If it

is a first call and the two have therefore no

intimate subject in common, she should lead the

conversation to topics of general interest which

are likely to appeal to almost every woman. It

should be the aim of the hostess to put her guest

at her ease, and encourage her to shine in con-

versation. The tactful hostess can converse and

stimulate conversation without an effort, and

without the assistance of the inevitable post-

card or photograph album, which form the in-

variable resource of the hostess in suburbia who

is unaccustomed to the etiquette of calls. (See

the Art of Conversation, p. .352.)

The servant should know that tea should be

brou;'ht up to the drawing-room as a matter of

course, and should bring it in at the usual time.

If, however, the call happens to be an unusually

early one, and the hostess is anxious that her

guest should be shown the usual afternoon

hospitality, she should ring the bell and indicate

that she wishes tea served at once and before

the usvial hour.

When the visitor rises to take her leave, the

hostess should ring the bell to intimate to the

servant that she should be ready in the hall to

show her out. If there is only one caller, the

hostess should accompany her to the drawing-

room door, or even to the top of the stairs,

W8iiting until she heis gone down, as an additional

mark of courtesy.

When one or two people call on the same after-

noon, the hostess should rise to receive each

caller.

It is always better to introduce the callers

to each other where there are only two or three.

Upon regulaj At Home days, when a number

of guests are present, it is unnecessary to do

this, the hostess using her own discretion as to

what introductions she will make ; but on

ordinary occasions when two or three callers

are in the room at the same time, it is always

more courteous to introduce them, if only for the

purpose of including them in the general con-

versation.

If, however, there is some potent reason why

an introduction would not be feasible between

two callers, a tactful hostess can manage to

draw them both into the conversation without

introducing them.

Tea is brought in by the servant, and placed

upon a small table near the hostess. Care

should be taken that the tea equipage is of the

daintiest - the silver brightly poUshed, the tea-

cups and saucers, tea-cloth and doyleys spot-

lessly clean, and that the cakes and bread and

butter are daintily and tastefully arranged.

The hostess should pour out the tea herself ;

she should also hand round the cups to her

guests, unless there is a gentleman present, when

he would be naturally expected to perform the

ordinary courtesies in this direction.

When there are two or more callers present,

the hostess should rise and shake hands as each

one takes leave, but she should not see each

caller to the drawing-room door. If any one

of the callers is of much higher rank than the

others in the room, however, it is permissible

for her to do so.

When the host is at home he might accompany

each departing guest down into the hall. This

would be a special mark of courtesy. In any

case he should see each guest to the drawing-

room door, waiting at the top of the stairs until

she has descended.

The At Home Day. - Many people with a large

circle of acquaintances set apart a day once a

week or once every fortnight to receive their

friends who wish to call upon them. This day

thus set apart is known as an At Home day, and

a lady always has her At Home day printed upon

her cards. The At Home day must not be con-

founded with the " afternoon At Home." The

latter is a social function or afternoon party on

a large scale, whilst the At Home day is merely

the regular day set apart by a hostess to receive

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

335

calls, and even although the circle of acquaint-

ances may be so large that the number of callers

on an At Home day is sometimes very great,

yet the two are quite distinct.

On her At Home days the hostess should of

course be in the drawing-room all the afternoon

ready to receive her guests ; tea should be

brought in at the usual time, and placed upon a

small table near the hostess.

A plate-stand containing thin bread and

butter, sandwiches, hot cakes, petits fours, or

other small fancy cakes, and cut cake, should

be placed near the tea-table. One of these

stands is almost indispensable for afternoon tea,

and the wicker ones can be obtained at very

moderate prices. The sandwiches should be

very deftly cut. They should be very tiny, and

are usually in shape of a small triangle. Water-

cress, cucumber, egg, potted meat and jam

sandwichbs are the most suitable for afternoon

teas.

Tea is usually brought in at about four o'clock

upon an At Home day. The mistress can always

ring for fresh tea when she requires it. Tea

should never be served in the dining-room ex-

cepting on the occasion of large afternoon At

Homes.

Some ladies make it a point of never being

" at home " to callers except upon their At Home

days. When a lady has an At Home day, her

friends should contrive to make their calls upon

that day.

At Home days are specially useful for people

who, living in tho town, have a large acquaintance

in the suburbs, or vice versd.

VISITING

The Guest. - When invited to stay at a friend's

house, the visitor should keep two things well

in mind :^

1. To conform to the rules of the household.

2. Never to outstay her welcome.

The time for the visit is usually specified by

the hostess, and the visitor should strictly adhere

to it. More often than not such a plirase as

" Can you not stay a little longer ? " is a mere

fa^on de parler on the part of the hostess, and

must not be taken literally.

In cases where the wish of the hostess is

manifestly sincere, and she asks you as a favour

to stay a little longer, do so if you can manage it,

but always remember that it is better to leave

too soon than to stay too long.

If you are just upon an ordinary visit to a

friend's house, and perhaps the only visitor,

your day will be well mapped out for you.

Always be punctual in yoiu- attendance at meals.

Be down in time for breakfast. In ordinary

middle-class homes, where a certain routine

prevails, breakfast is not served at all hours for

the convenience of guests.

When visiting friends, a certain amount of

tact is indispensable. Do not always be at your

hostess's elbow when she is busy with household

duties ; know when to be at hand and when to

make yourself scarce. If upon any occasion you

see that you are in the way, and that your

hostess is too much overburdened with a sense

of duty towards you to leave you to your own

devices, make some excuse in the way of letters

to write or some other similar plea, and so leave

her undistiirbed to whatever work she has in

hand.

Occasional little deUcate attentions on the

part of the guest, such as a gift of a few flowers,

are much appreciated by a hostess, conveying

as they do that the guest appreciates the trouble

that is being taken upon her behalf.

Dress. - What dresses to take with you on a

visit will depend altogether upon the position in

life of your hostess. If she is in very humble

circumstances it would be unkind to flaunt before

her eyes fine clothes with which she cannot hope

to compete. On the other hand, she would

resent it if, knowing you habitually dressed well,

you brought all your oldest and shabbiest clothes

to wear when staying with her. WTiatever the

circumstances, yovu- clothes should be always

fresh and neat. A trim tailor-made for morning

and outdoor wear is indispensable, with a good

supply of plain and dressy blouses. An afternoon

dress and hat, a smart demi-toilette for informal

evenings at home, and an evening dress and

cloak for going out to dinner-parties, &c., would

meet the sum of your requirements for a week's

stay.

Be careful that your boots and gloves are of

the neatest. A lady is known as such by atten-

tion to these details.

Luggage. - A common error into which women,

and especially young girls, fall when going away

for a short visit is in regard to the enormous

amount of luggage they take with them. This

on occasions proves a source of actual annoyance

to the hostess, especially if the luggage is of a

large and bulky nature. It not only gives extra

trouble to the servants in carrying it upstairs,

but on many occasions a particularly unwieldy

trunk has caused damage to the banisters and

wall-paper when being conveyed to the visitor's

room. In these days of neat compact luggage,

such a state of things is inexcusable. A neat,

light compressed cane dress-box for a week's or

even a fortnight's visit is sufficient, with perhaps

a small hat-box in addition, whilst often a good-

sized handbag will meet all the requirements of

a week-end \isit. \Vliatever luggage you may

take, be careful above all that it is light and of

normal size. Let it be as smart and fresh-looking

as possible. Shabby luggage invariably con-

veys an unfavourable impression, yet many

women are apt to be very negligent in this

important detail.

General Hints. - It should alwajra be the aim

of the visitor to give sis Uttle trouble as pos-

336

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

sible. She should in the first instance keep

her bedroom neat and tidy. Many young

girls have a habit of leaving their dresses here,

there, and everywhere about the room - teeiring

up papers and throwing them anywhere ; in

fact, leaving their tilings in such a general state

of disorder that it takes the housemaid quite

a long time to put the room stredght. This

is very thoughtless behaviour on the part of

the guest. She should bo careful always to

leave her bedroom scrupulously tidy. Upon

getting up in tlie morning she might strip the

bed of its bed-clothes, and open the windows

wide, seeing that all her dresses are neatly put

away before going down to breakf eist. She should

also be very careful not to leave books and

needlework Ijing about in the various reception

rooms.

WTiatever untidy waj's she may have fallen

into at home, she should be careful to be most

punctilious as far as orderliness is concerned

when away. Many hostesses are caused ex-

cessive annoyance by the untidiness of their

visitors - annoyance which is all the greater, as

etiquette forbids them to express their dis-

approval.

It is always a mark of cotortesy for a visitor to

write a letter to her hostess as soon as possible

after her return home, expressing the great

pleasure she has derived from her visit. Many

people dub this custom old-fashioned. This

it may be, but at the same time it is one of the

good old-feishioned customs which, happily for

the laws of poUteness, is still de rigueur.

Tips. - The question of tips is a vexed one

and the cause of much perplexity to the average

woman. Their amount will altogether depend

upon the extent of the establishment of your

hostess. Where only one servant is kept, for a

week-end visit 28. would be sufficient ; for a

week 3s. would about meet the case, and 5s.

would be ample for a fortnight's stay. Where

there are two servants, cook and housemaid,

the housemaid only need be given a tip, for it is

she who brings you your hot water in the morning,

attends to your room and sees to your comfort

generally. The same scale of tips as that

mentioned for the one servant would be suit-

able for her.

Where there are both housemaid and parlour-

maid, tips should be given to each upon the scale

alreeuiy mentioned.

A young girl is never expected to give so much

as a married woman, but her tip should in no

case be under 23. Two shillings would be ample

for % week's visit, where one or two servants

are kept. In houses where there are three

servants, she might give 28. to the parlour-

maid, and 2s. to the housemaid after a week's

visit.

Where a butler is kept a married lady staying

without her husband, or an elderly unmarried

lady, would naturally give him 5e. after a week's

staj'. Young girls are never expected to tip

men-servants.

The Hostess. - The hostess .should do all in her

power to make her guest's stay a pleasant one

without unduly fussing over her. The latter

attitude only serves to make the guest uncom-

fortable and mar her enjoyment. Let your

guest enjoy a sense of freedom, and do not always

give her the feeling of being tied to your apron-

strings. Study her tastes and try to conform to

them. See that everything in her room is in

order for her comfort - that the writing-table is

well furnished with notepaper and ink, and the

pin-cushion supplied with pins. The window-

ciu"tains should be clean and bright, and a few

flowers daintily arranged in vases would add

materially to the cheerfulness of the room. One

or two of the latest novels might also be placed

on the table, and a cosy easy-chair on which she

could recline and indulge in a qviiet read would

be much appreciated.

Attention to these little details go much

towards contributing to the enjoyment of the

visitor, betokening as they do the truly hospitable

hostess. Above all, let your visitor " feel at

home " in every way. This is the essence of

true hospitality.

Country House Visiting. - House parties at

country houses are very popular in society, and

in'vatations for these are most eagerly sought after.

The hostess usually specifies the time for which

the invitation is extended. In the case of a

visit of this kind, the obligation of leaving at

the proper time and not outstaying your welcome

is more than ever imperative. Necessarily the

number of bedrooms is Umited, and if a succes-

sion of visitors is expected, your room will be

required for the next visitor.

During your stay you will generally find the

morning hours free. Punctual attendance at

breakfast is not necessary. Breakfast is served

during certain hours, and each guest can serve

herself when she comes down. Many takj the

morning meal in their bedrooms. Luncheon

also is in most cases an informal meal, when

unpunctuahty is excusable, but never on any

account be late for dinner. Be in the drawing-

room at the required time beforehand, and

never absent yourself after dinner.

Try to make your hostess feel that you are

enjoying yourself, and bo pleasant and agreeable

to the other members of the party. Spare the

servants unnecessary trouble on your behalf, and

reward them suitably upon departing.

Tips. - Tips on the occasion of a country-house

visit amount to a not inconsiderable item of

expenditure, as the wealthier and higher the

position of your hostess the higher the rate of

tips expected by tl.j servants. It is a general

rule that men give more than women, and that

very little is expected from young girls. The

rule is to tip all those servants who perform

special services for you. Thus where a husband

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

337

and wife are staying together on a visit, the

husband tips the butler, valet, coachman, and

any other servant who has waited upon him,

whilst the wife tips the housemaid and the

maid who may have assisted her in dressing (if

she has not her own maid with her). The tips

for the maids are usually calculated at the rate

of a shilling per day for short visits, but the tip

should never amount to less than 5s. Where a

guest makes use of the services of her hostess's

lady's-maid, she should give the latter 10s.

The men-servants in large houses as a rule

expect gold from the gentlemen. An elderly

unmarried woman, or a married woman on a

visit without her husband, should also tip the

butler and coachman - 10s. to the butler, and 5s.

to the coachman for a week's visit would be

sufficient. A man, as a rule, would give double

these tips.

In the shooting season tips to the gamekeeper

f oiTn a very heavy item in the gentlemen's tipping

list. Gold is absolutely de rigueiir ; for one day's

partridge shooting the tip to the gamekeeper

would be £1, whilst the loader would get from

2s 6d. to 5s. Any defalcation in this direction

on the part of a guest would be repaid the next

season by his relegation to an impossible place

in the battue.

Dress. - Dress should be an all -important con-

sideration to the members of a country-house

party. Motoring and riding, as a rule, play a

prominent part in the amusements afforded. In

the summer, garden parties, lawn tennis and

croquet are almost a foregone conclusion. It

will be necessary therefore to take toilettes

suitable for each and every function. A neat

well-cut tailor-made is indispensable. It should

be of the latest fashion, and made to clear the

ground, as long skirts are particularly outre out

of doors in the country. In the hot weather

a good supply of dainty lingerie frocks will

be found useful. For dinner full evening dress

is always indispensable ; the ladies as a rule also

change their frocks for tea, smart afternoon

dresses being worn upon this occasion. Care

should be taken that the dresses taken upon a

country-house visit are all fresh and neat. The

woman of small means will find this question of

dress a great tax upon her resources ; but as she

cannot hope to vie in her toilettes with hor

wealthier sisters, let her soe that she is at least

dressed suitably for all occasions. Though her

dresses may be few in number, and in quality

and style may not come up to the art of a

Worth or a Paquin, yet if they fit well, and she is

always suitably attired, she may rest happy in

the knowledge that to be always suitably dressed

is to have acquired the art of dressing well.

ENTERTAINING

Dinners. - Dinner -giving is one of the favourite

methods of showing hospitality adopted by

society ; but rash indeed would be the host and

hostess who attempted to entertain in this

manner without a knowledge of dinner-party

etiquette.

Invitations for large dinner-parties are issued

three weeks beforehand ; in some cases even this

lengthy notice is extended, more especially if

the party is of great social importance. For

ordinary small dinner-parties, however, from a

week to ten days' notice is considered sufficient.

The invitation to a dinner is always issued in

the name of the host and hostess (see Invita-

tions, p. 332), and an acknowledgment (whether

acceptance or refusal) should come promptly

from the invited guest. People should always

be more prompt in answering invitations to a

dinner than in any other case. So much depends

upon just the right number of guests being

present and their suitable pairing ; and how can

a hostess make her arrangements in this direction

if she does not know until the last moment which

guests may be expected. Any discourtesy in

this respect is not soon forgiven by a hostess,

and the offendei is very often excluded from her

dinners in the future.

Punctuality at a dinner-party is another im-

portant rule. It is the height of discourtesy to

keep a hostess and her guests waiting ; always

make a point of arriving fuUy a quarter of an

hour before the time mentioned. 8.30 is the

usual hour for large dinner-parties in town,

though they may be given at any time between

8 and 9 o'clock. In the country, however, they

often begin as early as 7.30.

Ladies take off their cloaks upon arrival in

a room set apart for the purpose, whilst the

gentlemen leave their hats and coats in the hall

if there is no room set apart as a gentleman's

cloak-room. The servant precedes each guest

to the drawing-room and announces him or

her in the usual way (see p. 334). Formerly a

husband and wife upon being announced would

enter the drawing-room arm-in-arm. This

fashion is quite out of date now ; the lady

enters first, and is followed by the gentleman.

The host and hostess come forward to shake

hands with each guest.

Precedence. - The laws of precedence must be

strictly observed at all dinner-parties (see p. 356).

When dinner is announced by the butler (or

parlour-maid where there is no man-servant),

the host offers his right arm to the lady of highest

rank and leads the way with her to the dining-

room. The other couples follow in strict order

of precedence, the gentleman of highest rank

following last with the hostess. Husbands and

wives should not be sent down together. In the

dining-room the hostess takes the top of the

table, the gentleman who has taken her in to

dinner taking the place at her left hand. The

host waits standing in his place at the bottom

of the table until all his guests are seated - he

indicates the places they are to take as they

338

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

enter; the lady of highest rank seats herself at his

right hand. At large dinner-parties a card on

which the name of the guest is \vritten is usually

put before each place. A lady should always

sit at the right hand of the gentleman who has

taken her in to dinner.

At the conclusion of the dinner the hostess

bows to tlie lady of highest rank, and the latter at

once rises and leads the way from the dining-

room, followed by all the ladies in the order in

whicli they entered, the hostess following last of

all. The gentlemen rise at the same time as the

ladies, and remain standing until they have all

gone out. The host or gentleman nearest the

door opens it for them, and closes it after them.

In the drawing-room coffee is almost immediately

served to the ladies. Here the hostess may make

what introductions she thinks fit between her

lady guests. Coffee is taken to the dining-room

a few minutes afterwards, and the gentlemen

usually remain over their wine for about twenty

minutes, after which they join the ladies in the

drawing-room. The suggestion to rejoin the

ladies is usually made by the gentleman of

highest rank, who leads the way to the drawing-

room, the host following last.

All the guests shovdd shake hands with the

host and hostess upon departure, and the host

should conduct the lady guests who are unac-

companied to their carriages.

Selecting the Guests. - Much of the success of

a dinner-party depends upon the discrimination

exercised on the part of the 'host and hostess

in selecting their guests. It is always as well

to include one or two brilliant conversationalists

in their Ust. Good talkers are invaluable at a

function of the kind, and prove a great help to

the host and hostess. Needless to say, people

who are in any way uncongenial to each other

should never be asked at the same time.

To give a successful dinner-party is not such

an easy matter as it wovdd seem. Everything

depends upon the way it is arranged, and the

arrangement should be well and carefully

thought out beforehand. But " the best-laid

schemes o' mice and men gang aftagley," and

the guest who disappoints his or her hostess at

the last minute is often the means of upsetting

the most carefully -planned arrangements. Here

again the tactful hostess should not be at a loss.

If she hp.3 very many intimate friends and rela-

tions she can often prevail upon one of these to

fill the gap as a very great favour without incur-

ring the risk of giving offence. It would not do,

of course, to give a tardy in\'itation of the kind

to an ordinary friend or acquaintance. To do so

would be to commit a discourtesy which would

often be greatly resented by the ^person so

asked.

Some Hints for the Hostess. - A hostess must

avoid betraying any fussinoss and nervousness

of manner over little details that at times go

wrong at a dinner-party, however well it may be

organised. Some women sometimes fuss them-

selves into a veritable fever over trifling mis-

takes that more often than not no one else will

have noticed. A hostess should always be calm

and at her ease whatever happens - bright and

alert to the exigencies of conversation, having

the tact to divert it into different channels when

it seems to bear upon subjects which might not

be acceptable by all present. Given a tactful

host and hostess, the right people as guests, a

well-selected and well-cooked dinner, choice wines

and good service, the success of the dinner can-

not fail to be assured.

Luncheons. - There is a pleasing absence of

ceremony about luncheons that commends

itself to many, and for tliis reason luncheon

parties within recent years have attained a

considerable vogue. It is at luncheon that a

hostess is in the habit of entertaining her more

intimate friends, and the informal little gather-

ings at the luncheon hour are, as a rule,

wholly enjoyable both for the hostess and for

her guests.

Formerly at ordinary luncheons the servant,

after having handed round the first dishes, would

retire from the room leaving the hostess and

her guests to serve themselves to sweets. It is

more general now for the servants to hand round

the dishes and remove the plates after each

course, the guests helping themselves between

whiles ; whilst at strictly formal luncheon

parties waiting is de rigueur. Where there are

children in a family these are generally present

at the luncheon table.

When expected guests arrive at the luncheon

hour they are shown at once to the dining-room,

but should they arrive beforehand, the hostess

receives them in the drawing-room. The guests

do not enter the dining-room arm-in-arm as for

dinner, but singly, the ladies going first and the

gentlemen following them.

All the ladies should not sit together, however ;

each gentleman should place himself beside a

lady, if the places are not previously allotted

by the hostess. The hostess usually leads the

way with the lady of highest rank to the dining-

room, or the host should do so if he is present,

the hostess following last. The laws of prece-

dence are not usually strictly in force, although

it will be found that a woman of good breeding

will invariably make way for one of higher

rank than herself, so precedence is seldom

altogether disregarded even at an informal

luncheon party. Ladies should not remove

their hats for lunch, but they may take off their

wraps. When the host is present, the gentlemen

guests usually remain in the dining-room with

him for a short time after luncheon when the

ladies have adjourned to the drawing-room.

The hostess gives the signal for this adjourn-

ment to the lady of highest rank present, and

the latter leads the way out, the hostess following

last. Where the host is not present, however,

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

339

gentlemen and ladies leave the room at the

same time. Coffee is losually brought into the

dining-room at the end of luncheon.

Formal invitations are very rarely given to

luncheon parties, a verbal invitation in many

cases being deemed sufficient. Very Uttle

notice is necessary, but in the case of a formal

party a week's notice is sometimes given. The

usual hour for luncheon is from 1.30 to 2. It is

etiquette for the guests to leave as soon as

possible after the adjournment to the dravsing-

room, unless they are specially requested to

stay longer by the hostess. Strict punctilious-

ness must be observed in this respect.

Afternoon At Homes. - There is no more

favoiu-ite social fimiction for ladies, from both

the point of view of the hostess and the point

of view of the guest, than the afternoon At

Home. It is a form of entertainment that

recommends itself above all to the hostess of

limited means, because it is one that can be

effected upon quite a small scale, and at the

same time enables her to make some sort of

return for the hospitality she may have received

from her wealthier friends.

The kinds and styles of afternoon At Homes are

many and various. There is the large party

given on the scale of an evening reception, when

sometimes over two hundred guests are invited.

An At Home given on this scale necessitates

almost as much preparation as for an evening

reception. Usually on these occasions some

high professional talent is engaged for the en-

tertainment of the guests. At large At Homes

an awning should be '^ut up, and a carpet set

down at the front entrance, and cloak-rooms

should be provided. Refreshments should be

served in the dining-room from a long table or

buffet, and the tea and coffee shoxild be poured

out and handed round by the maid -servants,

the gentlemen usually helping themselves to

champagne cup or other refreshment. (For

refreshments given at large afternoon At Homes,

see p. 252.)

The lady guests are escorted to the tea-room

by the gentlemen.

At large At Homes the hostess should receive

her guests at the drawing-room door, which

should remain open, the hostess standing within

the doorway. Servants should always be in

attendance to call the guests' carriages as they

leave, and the hostess does not ring the bell to

signalise each departure as on the occasion of

afternoon calls.

Small At Homes. - Small At Homes are those

to which a small number of friends are invited,

and as a rule no special entertainment is pro-

vided. The hostess receives her guests in the

drawing-room as at afternoon calls (see p. 334).

Tea may be served in the dining-room or in

the drawing-room - generally in the former ;

although if the number of guests is very limited

it is better to serve it in the drawing-room. It

is handed round to the ladies by the gentlemen

present.

At large At Homes entertainments of some

kind are usually provided, but at small At

Homes the hostess should be on the alert to

entertain her guests. She should move amongst

them freely and join in their conversation.

The guests are free to move about as they like

and speak to their various acquaintances on

these occasions.

Invitations to large afternoon At Homes

should be sent out a fortnight in advance, and

for small afternoon At Homes a week in advance.

(See Invitations, p. 332.)

Bridge Teas. - Afternoon At Homes are some-

times given for the purpose of playing bridge.

Parties of this kind are known as Bridge Teas,

and they usually begin about 3.30. It is neces-

sary for the guest to arrive fairly punctually on

these occasions.

For a Bridge Tea an informal note of invita-

tion is usually sufficient.

Evening Parties. - Evening parties vary con-

siderably as to their quahty and extent, from the

briUiant official or poUtical reception graced by

all the shining Ughts of diplomacy and politics,

to the simple little social gathering at which the

guests must rely solely upon the host and

hostess, and the congenial company provided,

for their entertainment. The strictly official

and diplomatic parties axe termed " Receptions,"

and are occasions of the utmost formality. All

other evening parties are termed " At Homes."

At Homes may be given on a very large or upon

a very modest scale. At the large evening At

Homes some form of entertainment is usually

provided for the guests, and an elaborate supper

is one of the features of the evening ; whilst for

the smaller At Homes the entertainment is of

qviite informal nature, and only light refresh-

ments are served.

At large At Homes the hostess should receive

her guests at the head of the stairs or just inside

the drawing-room door, whilst the host is in the

drawing-room to welcome them as they enter.

The approach to the front entrance should be

carpeted, an awning should be put up, and a

servant should be in attendance to open the

carriage doors for the guests as they eirrive, and

to summon carriages and cabs for them as they

leave.

Cloak-rooms should be placed at the disposal

of both ladies and gentlemen, and tea and coffee

should be served to the guests as soon as they

arrive. The nature of tlie entertainment to be

provided is usually specified on the inxntation

cards - professional humorists at the piano,

raconteurs, &c. Pierrot troupes are now very

much the vogue for evening At Homes. The

hours for these evening functions vary from

about 10 or 10.30 till about 1, although At

Homes given on a Saturday should end at

midnight. Supper is served usually about

340

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

11 o'clock. Tlie host should take the lady of

highest rank present in to supper. On ordinary

occasions the hostess usually likes to see the

principal guests in to supper before following

herself ; but if she does not require to do tliis

she should follow the host with the gentleman

of the highest rank. When a royal prince is

present at a social function of the kind she

should lead the way to the supper -room with

the royal guest.

At small informal parties where hght refresh-

ments only are served, the gentlemen as a rule

escort the ladies to the room in which is the

buffet, and help them to whatever they require.

It is not necessary to take leave of the host

and hostess after receptions.

Hiring Suites of Rooms. - In many cases a

hostess is unwilling to turn her house topsy-

turvy for the sake of a large reception or an

evening party. In these circumstances she en-

gages a suit" of rooms at an hotel or elsewhere

in which to entertain her guests. Most of the

large hotels make the letting out of rooms for

these occasions a special feature of their business,

and will also undertake the entire catering if

required. Rooms other than hotel suites may

also be had suitable for the purpose ; town halls,

galleries, rooms belonging to various institutions,

&c., are let for these occasions, and may be had

for quite a moderate sura.

Caterers. - The large catering firms nowadays

cater for all sorts of parties at a certain figure

per head, sending their own trained servants,

and providing cutlery, glass, decorations, napery,

and everything necessary to the attendance and

table equipment. When a hostess is giving a

reception at her own home, she can do so with

the minimum of trouble if she has secured the

services of a good firm of caterers. The trained

servants sent out by these firms are all experts

in regard to the formalities required, and all the

usual incidental details which prove such a source

of anxiety to the hostess will be taken off her

hands. In small estabUshments manned by a

proportionately small staff of servants whore an

entertainment has been planned on a scale much

beyond the average resources of the household,

the caterer's aid is invaluable. And what is not

the least recommendation of the catering system

is, that everything is cleared away and the house

restored to its normal order within the least

possible time, and with the minimum of delay by

the assistants who are sent down for the purpose,

the household being usually enabled to resume

its normal routine on the very next day. Only

tiiose who have experienced the usual domestic

upheaval which follows any large entertainment

will be able to appreciate to the full extent the

benefit conveyed in this manner.

Bridge Parties. - " Bridge " forms the raiaon

d'Stre of another very popular kind of evening

party. A bridge party usually begins about nine

o'clock, and all the guests should bo punctual in

their arrival. In most cases prizes are awarded to

the winners in the game. There is a prize for

ladies and a prize for gentlemen. In some cases

second prizes are also awarded. The hostess

should show a httle discrimination in the selection

of the prizes, choosing articles that would be Ukely

to appeal to the recipients of both sexes. Some-

times very handsome prizes are given, but there

is no need to go to great expense as long as the

gifts are suitable. The card tables are usually

numbered, and small cards are given to the

guests as they enter, on which the number

of each table is specified, together with the

names of the four guests who have to sit at

each table. Coffee is usually brought in to the

drawing-room for the guests at the beginning of

the evening. Either supper or hght refreshments

are served during the evening. In most cases

supper is given at the end of the play about mid-

night or soon after, but in some cases it is served

earUer in the evening, and the play resumed

afterwards. The host leads the way to the

supper -room with his partner in the game. The

other partners follow, the hostess following last

of all with her partner.

Balls and Dances. - Dancing has ever been, and

ever will be, the favourite form of amusement

amongst the young people of both sexes ; it

follows, therefore, that the most popular enter-

tainment that can be given by a hostess is a ball

or a dance. A ball is a dance given upon a very

large scale. A great number of invitations ewe

sent out ; the arrangements for supper are

most elaborate, the floral decorations are of the

best, and a full band is engaged for the benefit

of the dancers. To give a ball in the true

sense of the word is to entail a very la\'i8h expon-

diture ; for this reason an entertainment of the

kind can only be contemplated by a hostess

who is abundantly furnished with this world's

goods.

At a dance the arrangements are not so

ambitious. The number of in\'itation8 issued

seldom amount to more than 100 to 150 ; the

decorations, though tasteful, are simple and not

costly. The supper is not upon such an elaborate

scale as that of a ball, and in many cases no set

supper is given, light refreshments served from

a buffet being considered sufficient, whilst the

music is often supplied by a pianist unaided by

other instrumentalists.

In issuing invitations for a dance, the hostess

should be careful not to ask more guests than

will be able to dance comfortably upon the floor

provided. There is no pleasure in the crowded

dance, when it is impossible for the dancers to

take two clear steps at a time without getting

into the way of some other couple. Excessive

crushes detract materially from every one's

enjoyment, and to avoid them should be the

first consideration. A good floor in the dancing

room is of the utmost importance. The floor

should be level and well pohshed ; for a small

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

341

dance a smooth drugget of brown Holland well

stretched over the carpet will be found to meet

all requirements, but in many houses nowadays

the floors are of parquetry, the carpeting con-

sisting solely of rugs which can easily be removed.

In these circumstances, as a poUshed floor is the

floor par excellence for dancing, the floor should

be polished. (For a good method of Floor

Polishing, see p. 66.) The hostess must have

a certain number of rooms to place at the dis-

posal of her guests. There should be a cloak-

room for the ladies, with a maid or maids in

attendance. Where a large number of guests

are present, it is as well to have books of dupU-

cate cloak-room tickets, a ticket to be attached

to each cloak, and the dupUcate handed to the

owner. A good supply of needles and cotton,

tape, pins, &c., should also be available, as

scarcely a dance passes without some Uttle

accident in the way of torn skirts and flounces.

The largest room should of course be devoted to

the dancing. The halls and landings might serve

as lounges. They should be tastefully arranged

with cosy chairs, palms and flowers. At large

dances there should be, in addition to the supper-

room, a room set aside for light refreshments,

which should be served tliroughout the evening.

This extra room would not be required at

smaller dances. A room should also be set

aside in which the gentlemen can leave their

coats and hats, as if the hall is utilised for the

purpose it does away with all possibility of its

being used for a lounge. Where the hall is so

small, however, that it could not be used for a

lounge in any case, tl.a gentlemen might leave

their coats and hats there, faiUng any other

room. The doors of the dancing-room are

usually removed for the occasion.

Where one of the reception-rooms has to be

utilised as a dancing -room, there is not so much

scope for decoration as in the larger establish-

ments with a regular ball-room. The room

should be well lighted, however, and it should if

possible be decorated in one colour scheme. For

instance, the lights could be shaded with pink

shades, the mantelpiece and fireplace could be

covered with banks of pink roses or pink

carnations. At very large balls the floral

decorations form a very considerable item of

expenditure - the banisters are decked with

veritable banks of flowers, floral arches are

erected over some of the doorways; in fact,

every available space is literally covered with

tastefully arranged blossoms. A decorative

scheme of the kind, however, is not as a rule

within the ken of the average hostess, but she

should make a point of introducing pretty

floral decoration wherever possible to add to

the charm of the surroundings.

It is always as well that some male friend or

relation of the hostess should be deputed to

fulfil the dutif^" of master '^f the ceremonies.

The daughteis of the house also should afford

their mother all the assistance in their power

before giving themselves up to the enjoyment

of the evening. Where a number of elderly

people are present as chaperons, cards or any

other similar entertainment might be organised

in another room, when space permits, on their

behalf.

Music. - The music shoiild always be of the

very best. A piano and one or two stringed

instruments form an ideal combination, but

where a piano' alone is provided, at all events

let the pianist be a professional well used to

dance music. There is nothing more trying for

the dancers than to be compelled to dance to an

indifferent musical accompaniment. Some one

should be at hand to take the pianist's place

when the latter has to go to supper. This is an

important detail which must on no account

be overlooked. One of the daughters of the

house, if a good musician, could well take the

place for this short interval.

Receiving the Guests. - The hostess should

stand at the head of the staircase or at the door

of the dancing -room to receive her guests. She

should shake hands -n^th the guests as they

arrive. Gentlemen and ladies do not enter the

dancing-room arm-in-arm. The ladies go first,

the gentlemen follow. Programmes with the

order of the dances are handed to the guests,

although at some of the largest private balls

dance pro^ammes have been to a great extent

done away with. The dance is usually opened

by the hostess herself, or if she has grown-up

daughters, by one of her daughters. It is

etiquette for the men present to ask the daughters

of the hostess for at least one dance. The host

should take the lady of the highest rank in to

supper. The laws of precedence in regard to the

other guests are usually waived at dances. As

a rule, they pair among themselves and follow

according to their inclination ; but the host

must always lead the way to the supper -room.

Fashionable Dances. - Among the favourite

dances now in vogue are the valse, quadrilles,

lancers, polka, two-step, cotillion and Sir Roger

de Coverley. A dance usually begins from

9.30 to 10 o'clock ; in the case of a small

dance, carriages as a rule can be called between

2 and 2.30, but the larger dances are carried

on till any time up to 4 in the morning. Cinder-

ella dances are so called because they end at mid-

night. Where a dance is given upon a Saturday

it usually takes the form of a Cinderella.

Public Balls. - Public balls are those for which

tickets are sold. It is always as well to form a

party to attend these functions, otherwise there

is not much chance of an enjoyable evening, it

being impossible to dance with people with whom

one is unacquainted.

County Balls form the chief events of the

season in the country. All the best people

invite large house parties for the purpose of

attending them, and the event as a rule is one

342

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of some social importance. Charity balls and

ordinary subscription dances also come under

this heading of public balls. The dances of the

kind given in London are many and various, and

the tickets vary in price according to the scale

upon which the dances arc given.

Private Subscription Dances. - Sometimes pri-

vate subscription dances are got up amongst

friends. The arrangements are usually in the

hands of two or three ladies, who circulate the

news of the dance and the price of the tickets

amongst the people of their acquaintance. A

room and a band are liired, and the arrangements

placed in the hands of a firm of caterers. For a

dance of this kind to be a success a great deal

of organising capacity on the part of the pro-

moters is necessary.

Etiquette at Naval, Military, and Hunt Balls. -

These functions as a rule are brilliant in the

extreme. In the first two cases the officers, and

in the last case the members of the Hunt appear

in uniform, and the scene is usually very pic-

t\iresque. Large parties are usually formed for

attendance at these balls. It is always necessary

on these occeisions for the guests to bring their

cards of invitation with them and hand them to

the official in charge.

Juvenile Parties. - Christmas time may well

be called the cliildren's season, for it is the

pivot as it were round which all the juvenile par-

ties revolve. Most of them take place during the

Christmas holidays, and seldom is such whole-

hearted enjoyment manifested by grown ups

and little ones alike as on the occasion of a really

well -managed juvenile party.

These parties vary a great deal as to the nature

of the entertainment provided. Sometimes they

take the form of regular miniature balls with

dancing as the chief amusement, the tiny

partners copying in every way the manners and

etiquette of the grown ups. Parties of this kind

are more suitable for boys and girls of from

twelve years of age and upwards - the very tiny

tots are apt to become too precocious by frequent

attendance at miniature dances. On the other

hand, attending an occsisional juvenile dance

is good for the little ones, ineismuch as it has a

good influence upon their manners and goes a

long way towards curing any tendency to ex-

cessive shyness they may possess.

The best form of juvenile party, however, is

that in which dancing is combined with other

forms of amusements in which the very little tots

as well as the elder boys and girls may throw

themselves whole-heartedly into the enjoyment

provided. Old-fashioned games such as forfeits,

blind man's buff, &c., can bo indulged in, and

these should always be organised by one or two

of the younger grown ups who understand

children, and are not above taking a part in the

game themselves.

A magic lantern is also an entertainment

appreciated by the little ones, and at Christmas

time a Christmas tree from which presents are

distributed, a lucky bag, or a bran pie will be

found to appeal greatly to the juvenile idea of

enjoyment.

The time for children's parties depends to a

great extent upon the scope and charaxjter of

the entertainment provided. Four till seven

would be the correct time for an ordinary tea-

party with games. Five to ten is a favourite

time for parties on a more elaborate scale at

which dancing combined with games and other

entertainments are provdided. For a juvenile

ball, six to eleven is a favourite hour, very often

the proceedings terminating with a grown-up

dance as soon as the juvenile party is concluded.

Organising a Children's Party. - A children's

party requires careful organising. The necessity

for the company to include one or two grown ups,

who can arrange games and take part in them

themselves, has already been pointed out. Tea

should be served about half-an-hour after the

time notified for the arrival of the Uttle ones.

Plenty of bread and butter, cut cake and

cakes of all kind should be provided. If the

party is to be over very early and no other meal

is given, it is better to have tea later in the

afternoon, and to make jellies and creams a

feature of the tea menu, not omitting bon-bons,

which should always be provided at parties for

the little ones, as they invariably prove an irre-

sistible source of enjoyment.

Where several forms of entertainment are

given, at least three rooms should be at the dis-

posal of the httle ones, one for tea and supper,

one for dancing, and one for games. Tea and

supper could be served in the dining-room,

dancing could proceed in the drawing-room,

and the games could be held in the morning-room

or library. Failing this extra room, however,

the drawing-room could be made to do duty for

both dancing and games.

Tlie games should take place after tea and Isist

about an hour. After this the little ones nhould

have a short time for dancing, then the conjuring

or other entertainments could be giver. This

order of course can be varied in accordance with

indi\ndual requirements. Presents from the

Christmas tree are usually given towards the

end of the evening. (See Indoor Games.)

Light refreshments are usually provided for

the children before they leave, whilst at juvenile

balls a regular supper is provided. The hght

refreshments should include lemonade, sand-

wiches, jollies, creams, fruit, and ices where

possible.

Garden Parties. - The summer season has its

own special programme of entertainments which

occur year after year with unvarying regularity.

Chief amongst these is the garden party, a

favourite form of entertainment with both

young and old. June and July are the favourite

months for town garden parties, August and

September for those given in the country.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

343

Invitations are usually sent out three weeks

beforehand in the name of the hostess, and it is

usual to specify upon the card any particular

entertainment to be provided (see Invitations,

p. 332). The success of the function of course

will materially depend upon the weather ; but

guests are expected to turn up if it is fine or

wet, unless there is a regular and persistent down-

pour of rain. Every hostess, however, should

be prepared for eventualities, and the wise

hostess takes care to have one or two rooms in

readiness in which she can receive her guests,

and in which tea and other refreshments can

be served and entertainment provided. She wiU

be able to regulate matters to such an extent

that she can with no trouble transpose her

garden party into a regular afternoon At Home,

and send her guests away wholly satisfied with

their entertainment however unpropitious the

weather iray have been.

Garden parties may be given upon a large or

a small scale. For the simple httle family affair

where the guests number from twenty to thirty

young people who have been invited to play a

friendly game of tennis, the arrangements can

be of the simplest. In this case tennis wiU be

the raiaon cfUre of the entertainment. The

young people should arrive in suitable tennis

attire, and simple refreshments in the way of

lemonade and other cooling drinks, and ices

where possible, might be handed round at

intervals to the guests. Tea could be served

either in the garden or indoors. One point to

be remembered is that in the strawberry season

there should always be an ample supply of

strawberries and cream - there is nothing in the

way of light refreshments which will be more

appreciated by the young people. It adds

materially to the enjoyment of the party to have

a director of games who will arrange the different

sets with due regard to the capabihties of the

players.

Large Garden Parties. - At large garden parties

the arrangements are upon a much more elabo-

rate scale. A marquee is usually erected upon

the lawn, and there tea, ices, and all kinds of

light refreshments, including champagne cup,

claret cup and strawberries and cream, grapes,

peaches and melons are served. More often

than not a band is engaged to play, and in this

case a bandstand must be erected for the

occasion. Smaller tents are often found here

and there in the garden for fortune-tellers,

palmistry, &c. The entertainments provided

for the guests axe many and various, and the

number of people invited very large. The

ladies should wear the lightest and daintiest of

summer dresses. Laces and flimsy muslins are

the most suitable materials for young people.

Serges and stuff dresses would be out of place.

The hostess receives her guests upon the lawn.

They should all go up and shake hands with her

upon arrival, and introduce the friends they

have brought as " party " before they mingle

with the crowd and seek out their acquaintances.

The hostess does not at a garden paxty intro-

duce people, but leaves them to find their own

friends.

Plefreshments may be served in the house, if

preferred. In any case, it is always as well to

serve a great part of the refreshments indoors

in case of weather eventualities in the shape

of unexpected thunder-storms, showers, &c., it

being wiser not to place too much reliance upon

the clerk of the weather even under the most

favourable auspices. At very large garden

parties given in the country during the season

it is usual to provide special trains for the con-

veyance of the guests from toTSTi. In these

cases the times of the different trains are speci-

fied on the back of the invitation cards. It is

always courteous for the guests to take leave

of the hostess before going, whenever possible.

Garden parties as a rule last from 3.30 till about

7. The hours are generally specified upon the

cards of invitation.

Picnics. - Of the many entertainments peculiar

to the summer season, a well-organised picnic

is perhaps the most enjoyable. Picnics should

only be arranged when the fine weather seems

to have well settled in, and in this respect one

important thing the women of the peirty should

keep in mind is to dress in accordance with the

weather, if they do not wish their enjoyment

to be altogether marred. This ad\ace is some-

times a little hard to follow. In many instances

a picnic is by way of being a notable event to

one or two of the young girls amongst the guests.

They will have pro^^ded themselves with dainty

toilettes for the occasion. Judge of their chagrin

therefore if the day dawns threatening and

cloudy, if not actually wet. But if they are to

have their full sum of enjoj'ment they must

resist all temptation to wear their cherished

finery and don some dress more smtable to the

weather - otherwise throughout the day they

will be worried about the chances of spoiling

their fine clothes, and even if they do not actually

do that, they run the risk of catcliing a heavy

cold which will probably have the effect of

preventing them from joining any other picnic

parties of the season. It will be well, therefore,

to be wise in time, and let no other consideration

but common -sense prevail in the choice of their

attire.

Good Organisation Necessary. - For a picnic

to be a complete success, it is necessary that it

should be well organised at the outset, and that

no detail should be overlooked. A great deal in

the first instance depends upon the selection of

a suitable spot. England is replete with beauti-

ful little country places abounding in romantic

scenery. Very often some historical ruin is the

centre of these rural spots ; in the case of an

exciu'sion to one of these the picnic would

therefore be instructive as well as amusing.

344

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Then the riverside places abound in beautiful

scenery, and present the addition£il attractive

prospect of a pleasant row to vary the programme

of the day. When one hves in the country, the

opportunities for picnics are of course unUmited,

but near every town there are rural spots easily

reached by train or tram at small expense, and

the prospect of a picnic may be said to be even

more attractive to the dwellers in the town

than it is to the dwellers in the country.

Small Picnics. - For a small party a picnic is

a comparatively simple matter, one or two tea-

baskets equipped with the necessary table

requisites, such as cups and saucers, spoons,

forks, knives, plates, methylated spirits lamp

upon which to boil the water, a kettle which

usually consists of a teapot and kettle com-

bined, tins for the biscuits, cakes and bread and

butter, salt, &c., will hold these and all the other

necessary provisions. Nothing as a rule is for-

gotten in a properly equipped tea-basket, and

the tins are usually labelled in accordance with

the goods they are to contain, so there is no

chance of anything being overlooked. Special

sets of grease-proof paper plates and dishes are

sold for picnics. They may be had in all sizes

and include meat plates, dishes, pudding plates,

tea plates, &c. A picnic -box containing a com-

plete set of cardboard dishes and plates sufficient

for a small picnic may be purchased for 9M.

Small baskets containing ample provisions for a

picnic may also be had at very moderate prices

from most caterers.

Large Picnics. - For large parties, however, tea

or luncheon baskets will not hold sufficient. It

is always as well to take one tea-basket on

account of its handy equipment in the way of

methylated spirits lamps, tins for condiments,

&c., but a large hamper should be requisitioned

for the packing of the provisions.

If the picnic is to be for luncheon, a properly

equipped luncheon basket with glasses, knives,

forks, &c., should be taken together with two

other hampers, one to contain the wine, lemonade,

&c., the other the table-cloth and various

articles of food. In packing these bsiskets care

should be taken to put the heaviest articles at

the bottom of the basket and to place the tilings

in the basket as nearly as possible in the order

in which they will be required, leaving the table-

cloth uppermost. It is as well also beforehand

to make a list of everything that is to be packed,

and to check this hst before the provisions are

placed in their respective baskets.

Packing the Provisions. - An important thing

to remember in regard to a picnic is the fact that

" loo many cooks spoil the broth." One or two

persons at most should be held responsible for

seeing that the proper things are placed in their

respective baskets. If too many interfere, the

chances are that each one will show a tendency

to leave the details to the others, with the result

that many things will be overlooked. Very

often a picnic is for tea alone ; but if it is pro-

posed to make a day of it, the host will often

arrange for luncheon to be supplied at some

rural inn first, and for the tea picnic to take

place afterwards ; or else the luncheon may be

taken in the open air and tea subsequently

provided at the inn. It is always as well for

the host to have some knowledge of the locality

of the place in which the picnic is given. He

should always know the nearest country inn in

the neighbourhood in the case of the provisions

falling short, or some important table necessity

having been overlooked, in which case the

deficiency could be easily supplied.

The informal picnics where people wait upon

each other are by far the most enjoyable.

Wealthy people as a rule motor down to the spot

selected, sending their servants beforehand to

make all arrangements. The latter remain to

wait upon the party, and are responsible for

things going right in the way of food supplies.

It cannot be denied that picnics are enjoyable

under these circumstances, more especially to

those who Uke to take things easily, but after all

a picnic is an informal gathering at best, and to

rob it of its informality is to rob it of half of its

charm. At large parties it is of course necessary

to have one or two servants to take charge of

the provisions in transit, to unpack them, to

open the wine, and to repack the things when

finished with ; but during the meal let them be

as little in evidence as possible. The guests will

far prefer to help each other and to help them-

selves.

Contribution Picnics. - Sometimes a picnic is

organised by three or four people. In this way

the individual expenses are very materially

lessened. For a picnic of this kind, however,

good organisation is more than ever essential if

things are not to go wrong. The ladies should

agree between themselves as to what part of the

entertainment each is to be responsible for, and

what provisions each is to supply. Only in this

way can the dangers of both omission and over-

lapping be averted.

Boating Parties. - Very often a boating party

is made the raieon d'Hre of a picnic. The boats

must be hired in suitable time, and care must

be taken to include good oarsmen in the party.

Either provisions are taken in tea-baskets or else

one of the many riverside hotels is fixed upon

beforehand for tea, and the rowing party makes

this spot its destination. The party very often

returns home by train on these occasions.

Steam Launch Parties. - Steam launches can

also bo hired by the day for picnics. Many

people club together to share in the expense, and

the company is as a rule a very large one. Gener-

ally a riverside place where tea may be had is

fixed upon as the destination of the party, and

they return home by launch also. On the

whole, it may be said that outdoor parties of

any kind given during the summer are of all

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

345

forms of entertainment the most enjoyable,

providing that the fickle clerk of the weather is

in a sunny mood and that the company gives

itself up whole-heartedly to the enjoyment of

the hour, leaving the worries of the moment to

take C6ire of themselves.

WEDDING ETIQUETTE

The Engaged Girl. - When one of the daughters

of a household becomes engaged to be married,

there are many points of etiquette to be kept

in mind, both by herself and her parents and

the parents of her fiance.

In the first place, after the announcement of

an engagement, the father, mother and relatives

of the bridegroom to be must at once make

the acquaintance of the bride and her relations

if they have not been previously acquainted.

They should call upon the father and mother of

the intended bride as soon as possible, and their

calls must be returned with the utmost promp-

titude. It must be borne in mind by both

famiUes, that if they are to avoid that unpleasing

state of friction which is often manifested be-

tween the relations-in-law of a young couple,

they must begin by avoiding any little breach

of etiquette which is likely to cause offence on

either side, and which often is the beginning of

actual lack of harmony between relations by

marriage.

The bridegroom's relations will of course wish

to make the acquaintance of their son's future

bride. For this purpose it is usual for them

to ask the latter upon a short visit, as soon as

the engagement is announced.

The visit to her future relations is one of the

most trying ordeals a young engaged girl has

to undergo. She knows that at the best, the

attitude of her fiance's parents towards her

■Rail be one of criticism, and that they are in-

wardly debating within themselves whether she

is really good enough for their son.

A tactful girl, however, will come triumphantly

through this ordeal. She will always bear in mind

that she is taking the son away from his people,

as it were, and this will make her all the more

considerate towards the family in which she is

about to enter. She will refrain from mono-

polising all his time, for instance, and from

flaunting that air of proprietorship wMch in

some girls is particularly aggressive. She will

encourage him to continue in all the little

attentions he was wont to bestow upon his

father imd mother, and not exact the whale of

liis attention to herself. She will, in fact, so

ingratiate herself with every one by her un-

selfishness and consideration that by the time

her visit is over, she will be looked upon by all

as a decided acquisition to the family, and her

fiance will have the satisfaction of knowing

his choice is unanimously approved.

Conduct of tne Engaj,ed Couple. - An engaged

couple should be careful not to advertise the

fact too freely to the world at large. Any

effusive demonstration in public is the height of

bad form. A girl who insists, for instance, at a

dance on dancing all the evening with her fiance

is guilty of a grave transgression against the

laws of etiquette.

Engaged couples are nowadays allowed much

more of each other's society than in olden times.

Independence is th: motto of the age, and the

young girl acts up to it by going about with

her fiance to places of public amusement un-

chaperoned. To act strictly in accordance with

etiquette, however, a young girl should always

be chaperoned by one of her relatives on these

occasions. It is a rule which is as often as not

honoured in the breach as in the observance,

but it is a rule which prevails all the same.

Where the engagement is to be a short one, it

is better for the engaged couple not to go out

much into society except amongst their relatives

and friends. If the engagement is destined to

be a long one, however, this rule cannot be

observed.

Breaking off an Engagement. - In the case of

an engagement being broken off, all letters and

presents on both sides should be returned with

the least possible delay.

Fixing the Wedding Day. - The choice of the

wedding day remains with the future bride, as

tliis has been her time-honoured pri\alege. There

are certain superstitions in regard to weddings

which she should do well to bear in mind if she

does not wish to go against the prejudices of

elderly and superstitious relatives, ilay, for

instance, for some reason or other is considered

an unlucky month for a wedding, and the

Lenten season is as a rule avoided in regard to

the celebration of marriage. In older times

the solemnisation of marriage in tliis season was

forbidden, so it may be said that the reluctance

of the average bride to have her wedding in Lent

has its rise in a tradition handed down from the

past.

Forms of Marriage. - ^The wedding day fixed,

the next tiling to be thought of is in what form

the marriage is to take place. There are four

different modes of celebration of marriage in

England. They are-

Marriage by Banns.

Marriage by Ordinary Licence.

Marriage by Special Licence.

Marriage by Registrar.

Marriage by Banns. - This is the form of

marriage most usually adopted. Banns must

be published on tliree consecutive Sundays in

the parish in which the prosisective bridegroom

resides, and also in the parish in wliich the

prospective bride resides, and both must have

resided in their respective parishes fifteen days

previously to the first publication of the banns.

The marriage must take place within three

months of the banns being published, or re-

346

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

publication will be rendered necessary. The

marriage must be solemnised in one of tlie

churches where the banns were pubhshed, and

the clergyman of the other church must give a

certi6cate of such publication to the clergyman

about to perforin the ceremony.

By Ordinary Licence. - Marriage by hcence is

a convenient alternative to the pubUcation of

banns. In London application should bo made

by one of the parties to be married at the Vicar

General's office at the Court of Faculties, or

at the Bishop of London's Registry. In the

countrj' it is usual to apply to a clergyman who

is also a surrogate, and he will obtain the

licence by return of post from the Bishop's

Registrar.

Fees. - The fee in London is £2, 12s. 6d. in-

clusive of stamp duty, and varies in the country

from £1, 15s. to £2, I2s. 6d., according to the

diocese. The licence is granted without previous

notice, and is available as soon as issued, but one

of the parties must declare on oath that there is

no legal impediment to the marriage, and also

that one of the parties has resided at least fifteen

days in the parish in which the wedding is to

take place.

Marriage by Special Licence. - A special licence

can be obtained at an average cost of £29, 8s. by

approval of the Archbishop of Canterbury after

application at the Faculty Office. It enables a

marriage to be celebrated at any time or place,

and does away with the necessity of the residen-

tial quaUfications.

Marriage by Registrar.- (1) By Certificate.- A

marriage can now be celebrated in a Registrar's

Office without any religious ceremony. Notice

must first be given in the prescribed form by

one of the parties to the intended marriage, if

both have continuously resided in the registrar's

district during the seven days immediately

preceding the notice. If each has resided for so

long in different districts, a notice must be given

to each registrar. Twenty-one days after this

notice the marriage can take place, and during

this period the notice is pubhcly exhibited in the

registrar's office. The fee for entry of notice

is Is., for issue of the certificate Is., and for per-

forming the marriage ceremony 5s.

(2) By Licence. - The Registrar, howevei, can

grant a licence by which the ceremony can take

place one whole day next after the notice. For

instance, if notice were given on a Monday,

the marriage could take place on a Wednesday.

Fifteen days previous residence in the district is

necessary on the part of either the prospective

br'do or the prospective bridegroom, and the

notice need not bo suspended in the office of the

registrar as is the case when a certificate is

applied for.

The cost of a licence is £1, 10s., and besides

small fees for entries and certificate of notice,

lOs. stamp duty. The fee for performing the

marriage ceremony is 10s.

The arrangement of all these matters in regard

to the ecclesiastical and legal part of the cere-

mony devolve on the bridegroom, and ail fees are

paid by him.

Marriages in Scotland. - In Scotland there are

two forms of marriage, regular and iiregular.

The ceremony of what is known as a " regular

marriage " is performed by a minister after the

banns have been published on three consecutive

Sundays in the parish in which the prospective

bridegroom resides, and also in the parish in

which the prospective bride resides. Custom,

however, has made deviation from this law

permissible, and in practice proclamation on

one or two Sundays is deemed sufficient. Most

frequently the Scottish wedding takes place in the

house of the bride's parents, although a large

number of weddings are now celebrated in cliurch.

As an alternative to having the banns proclaimed

the bride and bridegroom elect may give notice

to the registrar of the district in which they h.ave

resided for fifteen days immediately preceding

the notice. The fee for entry of notice is 7s. 6d.

The notice is publicly exhibited for seven days,

after which period a certificate of publication

of notice of marriage is granted (fee Is.). This

certificate must be given to the minister per-

forming the ceremony. Where banns have been

proclaimed the certificate of proclamation of

banns must be given to him in like manner.

In " Irregular Marriages " no official celebra-

tion is necessary, the declaration of the consent

of the parties to take each other for husband

and wife being deemed sufficient. It is neces-

sary, however, that either the husband or the

wife should have resided in Scotland for at least

twenty-one days before the mutual consent to

marriage is made. The declaration should be

made before witnesses, who will be able to testify

to the fact that it was made when the parties

apply for registration of the marriage. All

irregular marriages should be registered within

throe months after the marriage, application for

the purpose being made to the sheriff. Regular

marriages require to be registered within three

days. A registration scliedule for the purpose

must be obtained from the registrar of the parish

in which the ceremony is celebrated.

Fees at a Wedding. - There is no set figure for

the amount of the fee to be given to the officiating

clergyman ; these must be regulated by the

position and means of the bridegroom. It

should never, however, be under £1, Is. This

fee should be placed in an envelope and laid on

the vestry table after the ceremony, with the in-

scription, " For the Rev. , with compliments

and thanks." ^ The fee to the clerk should not

be less than lOs. Then there are many and sun-

dry fees to be given to vergers, and pew attend-

1 If the clerpryman is a relative, or a very (?reat friend of

the family, no fee is given, but it is usual to make him some

present, generally a piece of Bilver, as a souvenir of the

occasion.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

347

ants, all of whom expect to be remembered on

the auspicious occasion.

The Bridegroom Pays all Fees. - All fees in

connection with the actual celebration of a

wedding ceremony are defrayed by the bride-

groom, and are paid previous to the ceremony or

immediately after it. It is usiial for the best

man on these occasions to see to the paying of

fees for the bridegroom. The latter either gives

him the requisite amount beforehand, or else

the best man lays out the money required,

which is refunded to him afterwards.

Other Expenses of the Bridegroom. - In addition

to the paying of all the necessary fees, there are

several other expenses entailed upon a bride-

groom. At the commencement of his engage-

ment he has to present his future bride with a

handsome engagement ring, in accordance with

the never -varying custom. Then various gifts

on the part of an engaged man to his fiancee

during their engagement are always a foregone

conclusion. He is also expected to give his

bride a handsome present upon her wedding

day, in addition to the all-important wedding

ring. He has also to provide his bride and

her bridesmaids with their bouquets, and he

must give each of the bridesmaids a present,

which usually takes the form of some piece of

jewellery, such as a bangle, a brooch, or a

pendant. In addition, the bridegroom has to

provide the carriage to convey the bride and

himself from church and afterwards from her

parents' house to the station, although in the

country as a rule the carriage is provided by

the father of the brio i.

In regard to their future home the bridegroom

has to supply all the furniture, plate and linen.

Large contributions towards the plate, however,

are usually given in the form of wedding pre-

sents, so his expenses in this direction are often

materially lessened.

Expenses of the Bride's Parents. - First and

foremost amongst the expenses of the bride's

parents comes the trousseau, which should be

prepared with due regard to the position in ilfe

which their daughter will occupy. AH the

Unen should be marked with her married name.

Then there are various At Homes and parties

given before the marriage in celebration of the

engagement. On the wedding day the bride's

parents give the wedding reception and pay for

all floral decorations in the church. If the

service is a choral one, they must bear all the

expenses of the choir. The bride's parents

also pay for the carriages used by themselves

and their household. They do not pay for the

carriages of the guests invited to the wedding.

Tips are £is a rule expected by all the coachmen

and footmen on the wedding day, and these

usually amount to about 5s. in each case. In

accordance with time-honoured custom they are

all given champagne or other wine in which

to drink the bride's health. Where wedding

favours are given these are also supplied by the

parents of the bride. The bride usually gives a

handsome wedding present to the bridegroom

on the wedding day.

The Eve of the Wedding. - The evening before

the wedding it is customary for the bride's

parents to invite one or two of the near rela-

tives of both bride and bridegroom to dinner.

The bridegroom and his best man are also

present.

Bridesmaids. - The number of bridesmaids will

depend upon the scale upon which the wedding

is to be. Six bridesmaids make a favourite

number for ceremonious weddings, with occasion-

ally two httle boys, or a httle boy and a Httle

girl, to act as train-bearers. At very quiet

weddings one or two bridesmaids will be suffi-

cient. The bridesmaids should be chosen from

the relatives of both famihes, the sisters of the

bride and bridegroom (where there are sisters)

being usually asked to perform the office. The

bridesmaids provide their own dresses, and in

making the selection of the colour and style of

dress to be worn by her bridesmaids, the bride

should always be careful to select something that

will be equally becoming to all. She should

also bear in mind that the style of the dresses

should be such as will enable them to be worn

on future occasions.

The Bride's Dress. - The bride is as a rule

dressed eitirely in white, unless the wedding is

a quiet one and she is meirried in her travelling

dress, or else that it is her second marriage.

Silk, satin, cripe de chine, or ninon, chiffon or

lace over silk or satin are the favourite materials

for bride's wear. The dress is trimmed with

orange blossom - and a long white veil is worn

over a wreath of orange blossom. White gloves,

shoes, and stockings are also worn ; everj'thing

must be en suite^ the bouquet she carries being

also of white blossoms.

When the Bride is a Widow. - A bride who is a

widow should not wear a bridal veil or orange

blossoms. Brides who have been married be-

fore often wear their travelling toilettes for the

ceremonj'. Delicate greys of aU shades, fawns,

and other light colours are usually selected. For

a ceremonious wedding, however, a widow may

wear white, but it should be relieved by some

touch of colour. A widow is not attended by

bridesmaids at her wedding. There is no

obhgation for her to be given away by

her father or other male relations at the cere-

mony, although it is usxial for either her father

or one of her male relatives to perform this

office on her behalf.

The Best Man. - The responsibihties of the

best man, who should always be a bachelor, are

many and varied. He is the right-hand man of

the bridegroom, as it were. He should accom-

pany the bridegroom to the church, and see

that he does not leave the wedding ring behind

him. He must see that all the arrangements

348

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

in reg€ird to the bridegroom's carriage, both for

conveying him and his bride from the church,

and from the bride's house to the station, are

in order. He must be ready to reheve the

bridegroom of all the Uttle incidental worries in

his power. For instance, the best man often

actually sees to the taking of the railway tickets,

and the safe conveyance of luggage for the honey-

moon trip. The best man has also, as a rule, to

attend to the payment of all fees incidental to

the wedding, either before or after the ceremony

on the bridegroom's behalf. He must also sign

the register in the vestry afterwards.

Going to the Church. - The bridesmaids should

arrive at the church a short time before the

bride. If the bride's sisters are acting as

bridesmaids they should drive to the church in

the carriage with their mother, the carriage

afterwards returning for the bride and her

father ; but when she has no sisters she generally

drives to the church \vith her mother, her father,

having preceded her, meeting her at the church

door.

The bridegroom and the best man should

arrive at the church before the bride, and stand

together below the chancel steps, or kneel at

a prie-Di''u until shortly before the bride's

arrival. The best man should make it his care

to see that the bridegroom is in good time at the

church.

In the Church. - The bridesmaids assemble in

the church, or inside the church near the west

door, in two rows facing each other, waiting for

the bride's arrival, and ready to fall in behind her.

The General Company. - The bridegroom's re-

latives should seat themselves at the right of

the nave of the church, the bride's relatives

seating themselves upon the left.

The Bridal Procession. - If the wedding is a

choral one the choir and clergy march in silence

to the west end, and are ready at a signal agreed

upon with the organist to strike up the pro-

cessional hymn. The bride enters the church

leaning on the right arm of her father or guardian,

and follows the choir to the chancel step, the

bridesmaids, two and two, following her. The

bridegroom takes his place at her right side

with the " best man " standing behind liim. He

neither embraces nor shakes hands with the

bride, but simply bows to her. The father

stands at the bride's left hand. Her mother

sits in the front seat with the nearest relatives.

And now the service begins. At the question

" Who giveth this woman, &c.," the father bows

to the clergyman, and stepping in front of the

couple, joins their right hands together, and

then goes back to his place. Now is the time

for the gloves of the bride to be handed with

her bouquet to the care of the chief bridesmaid,

who holds them to the end of the service.

The bridegroom should unglove as soon as the

service begins. It always creates an awkward

pause if the bridegroom has to hunt in his

pockets for the ring. He should have it ready

when required by the priest to place it upon

the book. After the first blessing, the bride

and bridegroom alone follow the priest to the

altar, the others remaining at their stations,

not chatting together, but reverently joining in

the service.

When all is finished, the bride, leaning on her

husband's left arm, and followed by her brides-

maids, father and mother, and the principal

relations and friends, go to the vestry to sign

the book and give congratulations. On going

slowly down the cliurch, the bride takes her

husband's left arm, both recognising their friends

with smiles or bows, the bridesmaids follow two

and two, and then the bride's mother. The

" best man " waits until the last to see everybody

into their carriages. The Bishop of London has

lately condemned the custom of throwing rice

or confetti in the church porch or within the

raiUngs at the west end. Sensible people will

approve the bishop's action and govern them-

selves accordingly.

The ceremonial described is that of the Church

of England. The actual form of the wedding

ceremony will, of course, differ in regard to

different creeds, but in every case the social

etiquette remains the same, whatever the re-

ligion of the bride and bridegroom may be.

Where wedding favours or button-holes are

given to the guests, they should be distributed

by the bridesmaids in the vestry and in the

church. Wedding favours should be worn on

the left side.

The Wedding Reception. - Formerly it was

compulsory for a marriage ceremony to take

place before noon, hence the origin of the

" wedding breakfast " as the most suitable form

of hospitahty to show to the guests. But since

the time in which the ceremony can be per-

formed has been extended, fashionable marriages

now as a rule take place about from 2 to 2.30,

hence the old-fashioned wedding breakfast has

been superseded by the afternoon reception or

At Home. The invitations should be issued

tliree weeks before the wedding day (for

Wedding Invitations, see p. 332), and it is usual

for the guests invited to give a wedding present

to the bride or bridegroom. The presents have,

as a nile, all arrived before the day, and a room

is usually set apart in which they can he displayed

for the benefit of the guests.

The arrangements for the wedding reception

are of a similar nature to those for an afternoon

At Home (see p. 339). The guests are received in

the drawing-room, and they should at first shake

hands with the host and hostess, and afterwards

with the bride and bridegroom. The hostess

should stand at the drawing-room door, and

the bride and bridegroom should stand together

in some prominent position in the room.

After the presents have been inspected the

company adjourn to the luncheon or tea room

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

349

in the following order : The bride and bride-

groom lead the way, followed by the bride's

father with the bridegroom's mother. Next

come the bridegroom's father and the bride's

mother. After them the best man with the

chief bridesmaid, and the remainder of the

bridal party. Then follow the general company

without any prescribed order of precedency.

The Refreshments. - The refreshments pro-

vided at a wedding tea are similar to those for

an afternoon At Home, but champagne is of

course de rigueur at a wedding, and in the centre

of the buffet stands the bride's cake. The room

is cleared of furniture, and the buffet extends

along the length of it, servants being stationed

behind it to pour out tea, coffee, &c. The

number of toasts which were formerly proposed

at the old-time wedding breakfasts are now as

a rule dispensed with, but the officiating clergy-

man or some old friend of the family briefly

proposes the health of the happy couple ; the

bridegroom repUea and the bride cuts the cake,

a small portion of which is handed to each guest.

Wedding Limcheons. - The wedding hospitaUty

sometimes is extended in the form of a luncheon,

which is taken either sitting down or standing

up. The latter is the more usual form, especially

when the company is a very large one, the sitting-

down luncheon being adopted when those in-

vited consist mainly of the near relatives and

most intimate friends of the bride and bride-

groom. In the case of a luncheon the menu is

naturally more extended and varied than that

of a wedding tea. At a standing-up luncheon

the gentlemen help the ladies and themselves

to the various dishes, whilst at a sitting-down

luncheon the servants wait as usual. At a

sitting-down luncheon the bride cuts the cake

after the sweets have been served.

Departure of the Newly-Married Couple. - As

soon as the bride has cut the cake and the healths

have been drunk, she retires to change her dress

for the wedding journey, accompanied by the

head bridesmaid, if the latter is a near relative,

and the company adjourns to the drawing-room.

When the bride comes down again the farewells

are made, and the bridegroom leads her to the

carriage. The old-fashioned custom of throw-

ing a slipper after the bride " for luck " is still

adhered to - rice is also thrown, but confetti

should be avoided. It is most troublesome to

get rid of, and besides the colour sometimes

comes off, and if the bride's travelling dress is a

light one it is liable to get spoiled by a too

profuse confetti shower. If something must be

thrown diminutive horse shoes of silver paper

are now sold, and they are being largely used at

weddings for the purpose. They do not cling

to the clothing, and are much safer to use than

either rice or confetti.

After the Wedding. - The Wedding Trip. -

There is a tendency on the whole nowadays to

curtail the wedding trip. Sometimes it lasts

little more than a week, at other times it is

abandoned altogether, the honeymoon being

spent in the new home of the young couple.

Formerly a wedding trip of from three to four

weeks was considered de rigueur. At the present

time the length of the trip is purely a matter of

individual inclination and convenience.

Wedding Cards and Cake. - Formerly it was

the custom to send out to friends and relations

sUces of wedding cake packed in small white boxes

bordered in silver. Wedding cards printed in

silver were also sent out in the name of the

newly -married pair, and on these cards the

maiden name of the bride crossed through with

a silver arrow would also appear as a symbol

that she had given up her maiden name for

ever. Sometimes several hundred of these cards

and packets of cake would be sent out, and to

superintend their dispatch was quite a labour

of love on the part of the bride's family after

the wedding day. This custom, however, has

now largely fallen into disuse, and is only kept

up by old-fasliioned people. Neither cards nor

cake are now sent out by people who wish to

be considered up to date. (For etiquette in

regard to cards and calls for a bride, see

p. 330.)

Wedding Anniversaries. - It is a pleasing

custom among most married people to celebrate

each year the anniversary of their wedding as

it comes round by each giving the other some

httle gift. Tlie husband often takes his wife

out to dinner and to the theatre afterwards.

In these annual celebrations neither relations,

friends, nor acquaintances have any part -

though in the case of a very near relative a

congratulatory letter might sometimes be

sent.

Silver and Golden Weddings. - Silver Weddings

and Golden Weddings, however, are both ob-

served, and usually an At Home or dinner-

party is given in honour of the occasion. The

Silver Wedding is the twenty-fifth anniversary

of the marriage, and the Golden Wedding is

the fiftieth. In the first case the invitations

may be printed in silver, in the second case in

gold ; but they often take the form of an

ordinary At Home card with " Silver Wedding "

or " Golden Wedding," as the case may be, in the

right-hand corner. Presents are usually made

to the married couple by their friends and

relatives on the occasion of both Silver and

Golden Weddings.

CHRISTENINGS

A christening party is, as a rule, limited

to the near relatives of the peirents of the

infant, and therefore partakes of much of the

informality of a strictly family gathering. The

invitations to a cliristening take the form

of ordinary letters, and they should, if possible,

be sent out a full week before the event.

350

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The ceremony usually takes place in the

morning, and the relatives invited upon arrival

at the church seat themselves in the pews

neao-est the font. If the child is a boy it must

have two godfathers and one godmother, and

if a girl two godmothers and one godfather.

The godmother (the chief godmother if there

are two) holds the child during the first part of

the service, and places it on the left arm of the

oflBciating clergyman when he is ready to take

it. WTien the clergyman asks for the child's

name, the chief godfather should pronounce it,

taking care to do so clearly and distinctly. \Vhen

the child has been christened, the nurse, who is

standing at the right of the clergyman, takes it

from him. After the service the father accom-

panies the clergyman to the vestry to give the

necessary particulars for the registration.

Fees. - The verger, pew-opener, and other

church attendants will expect gratuities on the

occasion of a christening. It is usual to give

the officiating clergyman some souvenir of the

occasion, which generally takes the form of a

piece of silver, but money is not given as a

rule. However, in many instances the parents

present the clergyman with a cheque to be

devoted to the requirements of the parish or

to any good work he pleases.

Christening Presents. - The godfathers and

godmothers must make presents to their god-

child. Silver mugs, silver bowls, silver spoons

and forks are typical presents for both godfathers

and godmothers to make. In many instances

the godmothers' presents consist of some simple

yet good piece of jewellery when the infant is

a girl, such as a pearl necklax;e, a jewelled cross,

or pendant. Often also the godmother's present

takes the practical form of a handsome robe

and cloak. The presents are usually sent the

day T3efore the christening.

Tips to the Nurse. - Each of the sponsors

makes a present of money to the nurse varying

in amount from 53. to £1 according to their

individual means.

After the Ceremony. - The entertainment given

to the relatives and friends of the parents after

the ceremony may take the form of a lunch, a

tea, or a dinner-party in the evening.

Christening Lunch. - If a lunch is given, it

takes place as soon as the party have returned

from church. The christening cake should

occupy the central position on the luncheon

table, and the health of the infant should

always be drunk in champagne. The cake is

cut at dessert.

No precedence is observed upon going in to

luncheon, the hostess and other leuiies go first

and the gentlemen follow. The clergyman who

performed the ceremony, if present, should sit

at the hostess's left hand, and each lady should

be placed at the right hand of a gentleman if

there are an equal number of ladies and gentle-

men. If the party is a large one the places

should be indicated by little cards on which

the names of the guests are inscribed.

Christening Tea. - The entertainment very

often takes the form of a tea. This is served

in the dining-room, the hostess receiving her

guests in the drawing-room first. All go down

to the tea-room together, the host and hostess

included. The refreshments are the same as

at an At Home, with the addition of the

cliristening cake. Coffee and tea are poured

out and handed round by the servants, but the

host and hostess should attend to the needs of

their guests in the way of handing cakes, &c.

Christening Dinner-Party. - In some caaes the

friends and relations are in\ited to a dinner in

the evening. The precedence is the same as

for an ordinary dinner-party. The christening

cake is cut at dessert by the hostess, and the

infant's health drunk at the same time.

FUNERALS AND MOURNING

The gloom cast over a family by the death

of a dear one leaves the bereaved relatives with-

out much heart for forms and ceremonies. Yet

there are certain formahties which must be ob-

served even in these last acts to be performed

in tribute to the memory of the departed.

The arrangements for the funeral fall naturally

upon the head of the family. Women are

.''pared as much as possible any share in the

mournful details. Where it is the head of the

family who has died, either the eldest son or

the nearest male relation takes the matter in

hand. But in some instances a woman is so

alone in the world that she has to rely strictly

upon herself to see that the leist rites are

faithfully and fittingly performed.

The funeral is at once placed in the hands of

the undertaker, and is arranged on a scale

suited to the means of the family. Any wishes

expressed by the deceased as to his leist resting-

place are of course respected. A doctor's

certificate should be obtained as soon as possible

after the death (see p. 376). As soon as the

day for the funeral is settled upon, letters should

be written on black-edged notepaper to near

relatives and friends who would wish to attend,

apprising them of the date, hour and place.

An announcement of the death, together with

the date and time of the funeral, is also as a

rule inserted in one or two of the chief news-

papers. The undertaker will often see to this.

In fact many details can be left in his hands,

as he thoroughly understands the etiquette of

funeral procedure. Friends and relatives at

once begin to send wreaths and ether floral

offering unless the not very frequent request of

" No flowers " has been made. Formerly it

was not considered etiquette for the ladies of

a family to attend a funeral : now they can do

so if they wish. Needless to say black should be

worn by all attending the funeral.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

351

All the blinds of the house should be pulled

down after the death, and they should be kept

lowered until after the funeral has taken place.

If the funeral takes place in the morning it

is usual to invite the friends to some light

luncheon. If it occurs in the afternoon they

should be offered tea upon their return to the

house. Friends, as a rule, however, refrain from

availing themselves of invitations, unless they

have had to come from a very great distance.

Letters of Condolence. - Upon hearing of the

death, letters of condolence should be sent by

friends and relations. These should always be

written on black-edged notepaper.

To Inquire Cards. - After the funeral, cards

" With kind inquiries " should be left by friends.

When the family feel once more able to receive

calls they send out cards " With thanks for

kind inquiries." Friends may call after the

receipt of these cards of acknowledgment, but

not before.

Periods of Mourning. - The etiquette in regard

to mourning is not now so strict as of yore,

and the periods of mourning have in most cases

been materially shortened. More especially in

regard to the regulation mourning wear has the

change of fashion been most marked, for whereas

crape was formerly worn for almost any and

every kind of moiirning, it has now been almost

universally discarded excepting for widows'

wear, whilst even in the latter case it is worn

as a trimming only, and altogether put aside

at a comparatively early date in the mourning

period.

Mourning for Widows. - There are two ac-

cepted periods of mourning for a widow. In

the case of the longer period mourning should

be worn for two years, whilst eighteen months

represents the time mourning should be worn

during the shorter period.

Crape when worn is used as a trimming only,

and it is only worn for the first six or eight

months - sometimes it is not worn at aU by

widows, and in many cases chiffon or some other

dull material takes its place.

Thie Widow's Cap. - The widow's cap and

veil have been discarded in many cases. The

usual period for wearing the cap is a year and

a day. The veil may now be of cliiffon instead

of crape. Lawn cuffs and collars are worn

during the first year.

Jewellery. - Diamonds may be worn quite

early in the period of mourning, and gold

jewellery after a year. Diamonds and pearls

are often worn with very deep mourning.

Half Mourning. - In the longer period of

mourning, half mourning begins after one year

and nine months. In the shorter period half

mourning may be worn after fifteen months.

For Fatlier or Mother. - ^The regulation period

in which mourning is worn for a parent is twelve

months. During this time black with crape is

worn for six luonths, black without crape for

four, and half mourning for two months. The

wearing of crape is optional, but black must be

worn for the first ten months. After three

months the black may be reUeved by touches

of white.

For a Son or Daughter. - The regulation period

of mourning for a son or daughter is the same

as for a father or mother.

Young Children. - For young children mourning

is worn for six months, and for infants three

months' mourning is sufficient.

Brother or Sister. - The period of mourning

for a brother or sister is from four to six months.

During the longer period black is worn for five

months, and half mourning for one month.

During the shorter period black should be worn

for two months, and half mourning for the re-

maining two months. If in accordance with

older customs crape is worn, the crape should

be worn for the first three months, black without

crape for two months, and half mourning for

one month during the longer period. During

the shorter period crape should be worn for

two months, and black without crape for the

remaining two.

The prevaihng method, however, is to follow

the first rule and discard crape altogether.

Jewellery. - Diamonds and pearls can be worn

after one month - gold after two months.

For a Stepmother. - If the stepmother has

filled the place of their own mother for her

stepchildien from their childhood, they should

wear mourning for her for the same period as if

for their own mother. In other cases the period

of mourning would be for six months - black

for four months, and half mourning for two

months.

For an Uncle, Axint, Nephew, or Niece. -

Moviming should be worn for either three months

or six weeks. During the longer period black

should be worn for two months, half moiirning

for one month. Diu-ing the shorter period

black should be worn for three weeks, half

mourning for three weeks. Crape should not

be worn for these relations.

For a Grandparent. - Mom-ning shoiild be worn

for either six or four months. During the longer

period black should be worn for tliree months,

and half movu-ning for tlirce months - after six

weeks it may be relieved with white. During

the shorter period the time for the wearing of

mourning and half moiu'ning should also be

equally divided. Formerly crape was worn for

the first three months of the mourning period.

Jewellery. - Diamonds may be worn after one

month - gold after six weeks.

For a First Cousin. - For a first cousin, black

should be worn for one month, or black for

tliree weeks, and lialf moiu-ning for three weeics.

Relations by Marriage. - For relations by

marriage the shorter of the two periods wliich

prevail for blood relations is usually adopted.

Periods of Seclusion. - When persons in mourn-

352

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

ing should begin once more to enter upon social

duties is a much debated question, and one

which must to a large extent be governed by

special circumstances. The general rules upon

the subject are as follows : -

A widow should not accept invitations for a

period of tliree montlis. During this time she

should only \'isit her relations and very intimate

friends. After tliis she may gradually resume

her social duties, but she should not be present

at balls or dances till a year has elapsed.

Parents, Sons, and Daughters. - A parent

mourning for a son or a daughter should remain

in seclusion for six weeks. Balls and dances

should be avoided for six months. The same

rules apply to a daughter who is mourning for

a parent.

Brother or Sister. - For a brother or sister the

period of seclusion is three weeks. Balls and

dances should be avoided during the whole

period of mourning if the latter is the shorter

four months period ; or during five months if

the mourning is of the longer period.

Grandparents, Uncles, and Aunts. - For grand-

parents, uncles, and aunts, the period of seclusion

is about a fortnight.

Notepaper and Cards. - During the period of

mourning all notepaper and visiting cards

should have black edges. The black edge is

decreased in thickness as the period of mourning

draws to a close.

THE ART OF CONVERSATION

The art of conversation is indispensable to

a woman's social equipment. There is nothing

more pleasing than the cultured conversation of

a well-bred woman ; nothing more wearisome

than to Uston to the trivial talk of a woman

as lacking in breeding as she is in brains. It

does not follow that the most learned people

are the best conversationalists, although the

exigencies of conversation require as a rule that

a woman should be well read. Any woman with

a fair education can cultivate the art of talking

well, provided she has tact, a good memory, and

a pleasant well-modulated voice. Harsh strident

tones detract very materially from the charm of

a conversationalist. Very often this defect is

noticeable in girls who have been educated at

large public schools, where the habit of shouting

at recreation time is insensibly contracted. Every

care should be taken to cure this habit of shout-

ing, for although the voice may lack that actual

sweetness of timbre which is such a potent

charm, yet well-modulated tones go far to make

up for this deficiency.

A good conversationalist is before everything

a good listener. She does not monopolise all the

talking, but will adroitly lead to a subject of

particular interest to her friend, and then listen

carefully to what he or she has to say, putting

in an appropriate remark hero and there aa

occasion warrants. The secret of conversation

hes as much in the art of making others talk

&s of talking oneself. For a hostess good con-

versational powers are imperative. She must

know the secret of drawing out her shyest guest

and making her talk at her ease. She must

also know how to make a conversation general,

and discreetly change the subject if the topics

touched upon seem hkely to load to discord.

Topics to bo Avoided. - ReUgion and politics

are topics of conversation which should always

be avoided. They are subjects upon wluch

difference of opinion is very rife, and may often

lead to heated arguments which are as tiresome

and unpleasant as they are ill-bred.

Slang and Word Clipping. - There is a growing

tendency towards the use of slang in almost

every class of society at the present day. Words

are also chpped and abbreviated in such a

manner as to almost render them unrecognisable.

The gentlewoman would do well to avoid this

tendency, as nothing jars upon the refined ear

more than the mutilation of a good language,

and no matter how inured we may become to

colloquial slang, it never sounds well from a

woman's Ups. In whatever society slang or

word clipping is used, the fact remains that it

is contrarj'^ to all the laws of refinement and

good breecUng.

Pronunciation. - Words should be pronounced

distinctly and never slurred. The omission to

sound the letter g in the suffix " ing," as in the

word " dancing," is almost as great a sign of

lack of education as the omission or addition

of the letter " h." Cookneyism should also

be avoided. There is no more marked vulgarity

than a Cockney accent. When engaging nurses

for their children, parents should pay particular

attention to their pronunciation. Children

always adopt the accent of those who are con-

stantly with them, and Cockneyism contracted

in this way is most difficult to cure. Any

defects in children's speech should bo carefully

observed and corrected by their parents if they

do not wish the defects to become permanent.

Whispering in company is considered the height

of ill-breeding. People who have private matters

to talk about should select a suitable occasion

upon which to discuss them, and not offend

others by excluding them from the conversation

in this very marked manner.

Current Topics. - A woman should keep herself

well informed upon current topics of interest.

She should read the criticisms of new plays and

the reviews of new books. She will do well to

keep herself au fait with current literature, as

this is to many an absorbing topic of conversa-

tion. She should in addition cultivate the faculty

of remembering whatever she sees, hears, or

reads.

Tact is the quintessence of good conversation.

The tactful woman will never be at a loss to

find a subject of interest to her listeners. She

will discountenance scandal and other ill-natured

small talk- and when in spite of all her efforts

a dispute of any kind should occur in conversa-

tion between her friends or guests, she will pour

oil upon the troubled waters of discord by

quietly leading the conversation into a calmer

and safer channel. (For how to address titled

persons m conversation, see p. 354.)

THE ART OF READING ALOUD

U a correct accent and a good pronunciation

are necessary in ordinary conversation, how much

more are they indispensable for the woman who

IS called upon to read aloud for the pleasure and

entertainment of others. Good reading is an

accompUshment quite as worthy of cultivation

and as capable of imparting pleasure to others

as vocal or instrumental music.

Tone.- The cultivation of a correct tone of

voice for reading is essential. There are some

people whose voices for conversation are aU that

can be desired, but who if asked to read before

a hall containing a large number of people fail

to make themselves heard except by those who

are sitting qmte near them. In these cases the

voice lacks what is called " carrying power "

or resonance. There is nothing better for the

cure of this defect in the voice than constant

practice of reading aloud in the open air

Practice of this kind will gain timbre for a voice

naturally dull or faint.

Delivery.- Articulation must of necessity be

cleaj and distinct -^ach word should be uttered

dehberately with due regard for its correct pro-

nunciation. The sing-song method of reading

should be altogether tabooed. This defect is

often incurred by the reader letting his (or her)

voice drop after every comma, semi-colon and '

colon, to the same extent as after a full stop

l-auses after stops must of course be carefullv

regarded, but care must be taken not to give

them more than their proportionate value -for

instance, the reader must pause longest after

the full stop, not so long after the colon, still

less after the semi -colon, whilst after the comma

the pause should be almost imperceptible. The

interrogation mark, indicating a question, and

the note of exclamation, expressing sudden feel-

ing, require almost the value of the full stops.

The reader should try to cultivate a natural

manner. Whilst proper emphasis must be given

to the passages which require it, any attempt

at declamation should be avoided. Reading

sliould ho fluent and not faltering or hurried

Ihere is nothing more annoying to the hearers

Chan a reading rendered in staccato or ierkv

tbnes. Last, but not least, feehng and ex-

pression are essential attributes to good reading.

The reader should be able to convey as much

as IS in her power to her listeners the intention

of the author. .Vuhout feeUng, reading is little

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

353

more than a mechanical exercise- without ex

pression it becomes both wearisome and mono

tonous often to such an extent as to have the

ettect of sending the unfortunate hearers to sleep

One final word of warning- a,re much more noticeable in reading aloud than

in conversation. A stutterer should never

attempt to read before company until he (or

she) is cured of this defect. Nothing can be

more trying to people than to listen to a person

whose dehvery is marred by such an infliction.

Keadmg aloud is excellent practice for the

stammerer, but let her read aloud to herself

until this defect is altogether cured.

THE ART OF LETTER- WRITING

The woman who can write exactly as she

speaks who can talk on paper to the recipient of

her letter just as easily as if she were actually

conversing with her, is mistress of the art of letter-

writing, for in being able to write as we speak

hes the secret of good composition, and therefore

ol good correspondence.

In writing letters a woman must of course-

be gmded by the degree of intimacy which

exists between herself and the person to whom"

her letter is addressed. In writing to her friends

her powers of composition may have full play

whilst communications to slight acquaintances'

must of necessity be brief.

> ^№^ *?. ^^^^ ^ Letter.-JIany women find

It difficult to begin their letters-others find

equal difficulty in concluding them. One

sensible rule to observe in beginning a letter is

to avoid starting off with the pronoun " I "

1 ^^l^\i>^^^ " I hope you are quite weu!"

with which a number of women still begin their

letters IS as old-fashioned as it is ungraceful.

It the letter must be commenced with a pronoun

coinmence it with the pronoun, " You," referring

to the person to whom you are siting before

reterrmg to yourself.

Business Letters.- Business letters should of

course bejvritten in a business-like manner ;

they should be as brief and succinct as possible.

Business letters when very short may be written

m the third person. In other cases the first

person should be employed, the beginning

Dear Sir, and the subscription, " Yours

truly, being usually adopted. The name and

address of the person to whom a business letter

IS sent should be placed cither at the beginning

of the letter on the left-hand side above the

Dear Sir, ' or at the end of the letter after

the signature on the left-hand side. For business

letters Yours truly," and " Yours faithfullv."

are the usual forms of subscripton. In ordinary

letters the subscription depends upon the degree

of intimacy between the correspondents. Yours

sincerely, and Yoiu^ very sincerely, are the forms

most generally used.

Necessity for Spelling Names Correctly.- Care

354

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

should always be taken that the name of the

person to whom the letter is addressed is spelt

correctly. Some people are very sonsiti%'e as

to the proper spelling of their names. A Mrs.

Smyth, for instance, nught resent it very much

if a correspondent were to address her as " Mrs.

Smith." It is always as well to ascertain the

correct orthography of tlie names of acquaint-

ances before writing to them.

Letters in the Third Person. - Letterato strangers

may be written in the tliird person ; but only

if the communication is very brief. In other

cases it is better to write in the first person as

usual, as the constant repetition of names in

a long letter written in the third person would

not read well. In this case the letter should

begin " Sir," or " Madam," and be subscribed

" Yours truly." Invitations are generally

written on cards, and in the third person (see

p. 332).

Notepaper. - A woman should be very parti-

cular in regard to her notepaper, as this is one

of the many Uttle details by which her claim

to refinement will be judged. The notepaper

should always be of the best in quality and of

medium thickness, and the envelopes should

match it in every way, being of a size to exactly

fit the sheet of notepaper when it is folded.

Crests and Armorial Bearings not used. -

Crests and armorial bearings should not be

blazoned upon notepaper. The address should

be stamped clearly in plain lettering at the

top of the first page. White, black, or violet

are the favourite colourings for the lettering.

Dies should always be used for stamping the

addresses on notepaper. These can be specially

made at moderate charges of from 4s. 6d.

upwards, and can be used time after time,

the stationer undertaking the stamping for a

small charge.

Lever Embossing Presses. - A very convenient

method, however, for stamping notepaper at

home is by means of a lever embossing press.

This is a small hand instrument into which a

lever Embossing Press.

die is fitted, and by placing the notepaper over

the die and depressing the lever, each shoot of

notepaper can be stamped aa required. This

instrument is all the more useful to have at

hand when it is remembered that in the best

regulated household the supply of stamped

paper is apt to run short, and ponding the stamp-

ing of a fresh supply by the stationer very

often plain paper has to be used. The possession

of a lover embossing press renders such a state

of affairs impossible - it is always at hand, and

for this reason many women find it an indis-

pensable adjunct to their writing-tables.

How to Address Persons of Rank. - It is essential

that every woman shoiild know how to address

persons of rank in writing, both as regards the

addressing of the envelope and the beginning

of a letter. There is, of course, a great differ-

ence between the methods of addressing titled

people employed by their friends and those

employed officially and by strangers. For

instance the friends of a duke would call him

" Duke " when in conversation with him, whilst

strangers would adopt the formal term " Your

Grace." In writing the formal term would be

" My Lord Duke," whilst a friend would write

at the beginning of his letter " Dear Duke."

MODE OF ADDRESSING PERSONS OF RANK

In conversing with persons of rank, avoid the

constant repetition of their title. The following

table refers to the forms to be observed in

formal communications :

(a) = How to address the envelope.

(b) = How to begin the letter.

conversing with him.

Royalty -

The King ; (o) To His Majesty the King ;

(b) Sir, under His JMajesty the King ;

The Queen : (a) To Her Majesty the Queen ;

(b) JNIadam, under Her Majesty the Queen ;

The Prince of Wales / (o) To His Royal High-

ness the Prince of Wales ; (b) Sir ; (c) Your

Royal Highness. Similarly in regard to

other members of the Royal Family.

Nobility and Gentry -

Duke and Duchess ; (a) To His (Her) Grace

the Duke (Duchess) of ; (6) My Lord

Duke (Madam) ; (c) Your Grace.

Duke's eldest son has a courtesy title, and is ad-

dressed aa if it were his by creation. Uuke's younger

gong : (a) To the Riglit Honl)le. Lord James ;

(b) and (c) Sir. Uulce's daughters: (a) To the

Right Honble. Lady Jane G. (6) Madam ; (c)

Your Ladyship.

Marquis and Marchioness : (a) To the Most

Honblc. the Marquis (Marchioness) of

; (6) My Lord Marquis (Madam) ;

children same as for those of a Duke.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

Earl and Countess i (a) To the Right Honblo.

the Earl (Countess) of ; {h) My

Lord (Lady) ; (c) Your Lordship (Ladyship).

Earl's eldest son takes courtesy title and is addressed

accordingly. Earl's younger sons: (a) To the

Honble. Charles R ; (b) and (c) Sir. Earl's

daughters same as for those of a Duke.

Viscount and Viscountess similar to Earl and

Countess. All their sons and daughters are

styled Honourable, (a) To the Honble. John

(Mary) S ; (6) and (c) Sir (Madam).

Baron and Baroness and their children similar

to Viscount and Viscountess and their

children.

Baronet ■ (a) To Sir Edward D B^ironet

or Bt. (not Bart.) ; (6) Sir; (c) Sir Edward.

His wife: (o) To Lady D ; (6) Madam;

Knight : (a) To Sir John F ; (6) Sir ; (c) Sir

Johp. His wife, same as Baronet's wife.

Omit Kt. after the name on the envelope, and

avoid in speaking the use of the surname.

The Clergy -

Archbishop : (a) To His Grace the Lord Arch-

bishop of ; (b) My Lord Archbishop,

or Your Grace ; (c) Your Grace.

Bishop : (o) To the Right Reverend ; (6) My

Lord Bishop ; (c) Your Lordship.

N.B.-Aa a matter of courtesy the same form is

usually adopted in addressing bishops, whether

they are English Suffragan, or Colonial or Scotch

or Irish bishops. '

Dean : (a) To the Very Reverend The Dean

of ; (6) Vt y Rev. Su- ; (c) Mr.

Dean.

Archdeacon : (a) To the Venerable the Arch-

deacon of ; (6) Venerable Sir ; (c) Mr.

Archdeacon.

Clergymen : {a) To the Rev. C. D

(6) Rev. Sir ; (c) Sir.

If the Christian name is not known, leave

blank : Rev D, not Rev, Mr. D.

• If a clergyman possesses the right to

be styled Honourable or Right Honourable, this

should precede his address as a cleric ; e.g. The

Right Honble. and Right Reverend

A Canon or Prebendary is addressed like ordinary

clergymen except that Canon or Prebendary takes

the place of the Christian name or initial

Ihe wives of bishops and other clergymen derive no

title from the official rank of their husbands.

The JuncEs, Mayors, &c. -

The Lord Oharicellor : {a) To the Right Honb?e.

the Lord High Chancellor ; or to the Right

Honble. Earl Russell, Lord High Chancellor ;

(6) My Lord ; (c) Your Lordship.

This style is also adopted in addressing the

Lord Chief Justice, the Master of the Rolls, and

the Lords of Appeal.

Vice-chancellor • (o) To the Honble.

Vice-chancellor ; (6) and (c) Sir.

Puisne Judges :

Justice

355

(o) To the Honble. 5Ir.

J (6) and (c) Sir, but " My

Lord " when on the Bench.

Judges are usually Knights ; but the

above mode of address is more comphmen-

tary than that used in the case of Knights.

Their wives are addressed as the wives of

Knights.

Judges of the County Court i (a) To His

Honour Judge ; (6) and (c) Sir, but

" Your Honour " when on the Bench.

Justices of the Peace i (a) W. Smith, Esq.,

J.P. ; (b) and (c) Sir, but " Your Worship "

when on the Bench.

Lord Mayor i (o) The Right Honble. the

Lord Mayor of ; (6) My Lord ; (c)

Your Lordship. His wife : (a) The Right

Honble. the Lady Mayoress of ; (6)

Madam ; (c) Your Ladyship.

In Scotland, Lord Provost takes the place

of Lord Mayor. His wife does not share

in his title.

[The chief magistrates of London, Dublin, York

Liverpool, iranchester,Birmingham, Bristol, Leeds,

Sheffield, Newcastle, Cardiff, Belfast, and Cork arc

Lord Mayors ; and those of Edinburgh, Glasgow-

Aberdeen, Perth, and Dundee are Lord Provosts.]

-, or in a

Mayors : (a) The ]\Iayor of

memorial or other formal address. To his

Worship the Mayor of ; (6) and (c)

Sir, but " Your Worship " when in Court.

Aldermen : (a) To Alderman Sir James ,

or To Mr. Alderman Jones ; (6) and (c) Sir.

Officers of the Army and Navy -

(o) The professional rank must always pre-

cede any other title ; e.g. Admiral Sir

WilHam Eyton ; Captain James Martin,

R.N, ; Lieut, Nairn, R.N. A Meutenant in

the army is addressed simply as Esquire,

but above that grade the rank is expressed ;

e.g. General Sir Edward Iving, Colonel The

Honble. Arthur Bayne ; Major Thompson ;

(6) If the officer is untitled begin the letter

by writing " Sir " under the name and office.

[Friends, of course, would write Dear

Admiral, Dear General, &c., as the case

may be.] The wives of officers, hke the

wives of clergymen, do not derive any title

from the official rank of their husbands.

Special Cases -

Ambassadors take the title, as do also their

wives, of " Excellency " ; (a) To His

Excellency the Earl of , Ambassador

to ; (6) according to rank ; (c) Yoiu-

Excellency.

Privy Councillors are addressed as " Right

Honourable," but their wives not so.

Governors of Colonics : (a) To His Excellency

, Governor of ; (6) Accord-

ing to rank ; (c) Your Excellency.

356

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Cardinals : (a) To Hia Eminence ;

(6) and (c) Your Eminence.

Dowagers. Care should bo taken to dis-

tinguish Dowagers by putting their Christian

name before the title, thus : The Right

Honble. Jane, Countess of Wigan.

Maid of Honour : (a) The Honble. Miss ;

(b) and (c) IMadam.

Obs. It is courteous to add to the ordinary

addivss : -

(1) The letters Indicating the order of knighthood

that the addi-essee possesses, Buch as K.G.,

K.C.B., &c.

(2) The letters il.P. in the case of a Member of

Parliament.

(3) The letters K.C. in the case of a King's Counsel.

(4) The letters indicating a Doctor's degree- D.D.,

D.C.L., LL.D., M.D., &c.

RULES OF PRECEDENCE

(1) The precedence of the members of the

Royal Family depends on their relationship to

the reigning sovereign, and not on their relation-

ship to any of his predecessors.

(2) Ambassadors take precedence immediately

after the Blood Royal ; envoys and ministers

accredited to the sovereign after dukes and

before marquises.

(3) The five degrees of honour among peers

correspond with tlie titles - duke, marquis, earl,

viscount, baron. Of those belonging to the same

rank, seniority of creation settles the place in

the scale of honour.

(4) Peers have precedence according as they

are of England, Scotland, Great Britain, Ireland,

or the United Kingdom.

(5) Precedence depends partly on rank and

partly on place or office ; thus, the Lord Steward

and the Lord Chamberlain of H.M. Household

are above all peers of their own degree.

(6) Younger sons of rank A precede even

the eldest son of rank B ; thus the younger sons

of a Duke precede the elder sons of a Marquis

or Earl, and so on.

(7) All sons of Viscounts and Barons precede

Baronets, but the eldest sons and daughters of

Baronets walk before the eldest sons and

daughters of Knights of any degree whatsoever,

Knighthood not being an hereditary honour.

On the other hand, the eldest sons of Knights

precede the younger sons of Baronets.

(8) The official precedence of a husband or

father confers no personal precedence on his

wife or children ; e.fj. the Lord Chancellor or

the Speaker of the House of Commons does not

transmit any rank or place to his wife or children

from his official position but only from his

personal rank.

(9) Any one who is entitled to both personal

and official precedence is to be placed ticcording

to that which implies the higher rank.

(10) Unmarried women take precedency from

their father, " share and share alike," which is

not the case with sons.

(11) Married women share their husbands'

dignities, but can confer none of thou' own

upon their husbands. Nor can the daughter

of a peer, unless a peeress in her own right,

transmit any rank or place to her cliildren.

(12) Distinctions of bu-th, creation, or descent

are a woman's own, and remain if she marry a

commoner ; but if she marry a nobleman she

must take her husband's place in the order of

precedency.

(13) The wife of the eldest son of any degree

precedes the daughters of the same degree, and

both of them precede the younger sons of the

next higher degree. Thus the wife of the eldest

son of an Earl walks before an Earl's daughter,

and both of them before the wife of the younger

son of a Marquis ; and the wife of a Marquis

precedes the wife of the eldest son of a Duke.

TABLE OF PRECEDENCE AMONG MEN

The King.

The Prince of Wales.

King's other Sons.

King's Uncles.

King's Nephews.

(Ambassadors. See rule (2).)

Archbishop of Canterbury.

[In Scotland, Moderator of the General Assembly

if in attendance at a royal function.]

Lord High Chancellor, or Lord Keeper

if a Peer.

Archbishop of York.

The Prime Minister.

Lord Chancellor of Ireland.

Lord President of the Privy Council.

Lord Privy Seal.

Lord Great Chamberlain.

Lord High Constable.

Earl Marshal.

Lord Steward of H.M. Household.

Lord Chamberlain of H.M. Household.

The last five rank above all Peers

of their own degree.

Dukes.

Eldest Sons of Dukes of the Blood Royal.

Marquises.

Eldest Sons of Dukes.

Eabxs.

Younger Sons of Dukes of the Blood RoyaL

Eldest Sons of Marquises.

Younger Sons of Dukes.

Viscounts.

Eldest Sons of Earls.

Younger Sons of Marquises.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

357

Bishops.

(1) London, (2) Dvirham, (3) Winchester.

English Bishops, according to Seniority

of Consecration.

[In Scotland, the Primus of the Episcopal Chivrch

immediately follows the Moderator of the

Greneral Assembly.]

[In Ireland the Bishops of the Disestablished

Church are now placed on equality with those

of the Roman Communion, all alike taking

rank according to seniority of

Consecration.]

Secretary of State and Chief Secretary to the

Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, if at least a

Baron.

Barons.

Speaker of the House of Commons.

Commissioners of the Great Seal.

Treasurer of the Household.

Comptroller of the Household.

Master of the Horse.

Vice-Chamberlain of the Household.

Secretary of State and Chief Secretary to the

Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, if below

the rank of Baron.

Eldest Sons of Viscounts.

Younger Sons of Earls.

Eldest Sons of Barons.

Knights of the Garter.

Privy Councillors.

Chancellor of the Exchequer.

Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster.

Lord Cliiof Justice of the Iving's Bench.

Master of the Rolls.

Lords Justices of Appeal, and the President of

the Probate Divorce and Admiralty Division.

Judges of the High Court of Justice.

Knights Bannerets made by the Sovereign

in person.

Younger Sons of (1) Viscounts. (2) Barons.

Bakonets.

Knights Bannerets not made by the

Sovereign in person.

Knights Grand Cross of the Bath.

Knights Grand Commanders of the

Star of India.

Knights Grand Cross of SS. ]\Iichael

and George.

Knights Grand Commanders of the Order

of the Indian Empire.

Knights Grand Cross of the Royal

Victorian Order.

Knights Commanders of the Bath.

Knights Commanders of the Star of India.

Knights Commanders of SS. Michael and George.

Knights Commanders of the Order of the

Indian Empire.

Knights Commanders of the Royal

Victorian Order.

Commanders of the Royal Victorian Order.

Knights Bachelors.

Companions of the Bath.

Companions of the Star of India.

Companions of SS. Llichael and George.

Companions of the Order of the Indian Empire.

Members of the Fourth Class of the Royal

Victorian Order,

Companions of the Distinguished Ser\-ice Order.

Members of the Fifth Class of the Royal

Victorian Order.

Eldest Sons of the Younger Sons of Peers.

Eldest Sons of Baronets.

Eldest Sons of Knights of the Garter.

Eldest Sons of Bannerets.

Eldest Sons of Knights according to their father's

precedence.

Younger Sons of Baronets.

Younger Sons of Knights.

Esquires and Gentlemen.

TABLE OF PRECEDENCE AMONG LADIES

The Queen.

The Princess of Wales. ^

The Queen Mother.

Daughters of the Sovereign.

Sisters of the Sovereign.

Aunts of the Sovereign.

Wives of the Uncles of the Sovereign.

Nieces of the Sovereign.

Duchesses.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Dukes of the

Blood Royal.

Marchionesses.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Dukes.

Daughters of Dukes.

Countesses.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Dukes

of the Blood Royal.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Marquises.

Daughters of Marquises.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Dukes.

Viscountesses

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Earls.

Daughters of Eai-ls.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Marquises.

Baronesses.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Viscounts.

Daughters of Viscounts.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Earls.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Barons.

Daughters of Barons.

Maids of Honour to the Queen.

Wives of Kniglits of the Garter.

Wives of Bannerets made by the King in

person.

' There beinp no Princess of Wales at present the Queen

Mother comes next in precedence to the Queen.

358

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Wives of the Younger Sons of Viscounts.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Barons.

Wives of Baronets according to the dates of

their husbands' creation.

Wives of Bannerets not made by the Iving

in person.

Wives of Knights Grand Cross of the Bath.

Wives of Knights Grand Commanders of the

Star of India.

Wives of Knighta Grand Cross of SS. ]\Iicha"il

and George.

Wives of Knights Grand Commanders of the

Order of the Indian Empire.

Wives of Knights Grand Cross of the Royal

Victorian Order.

Wives of Knights Commanders of the Bath.

Wives of Knights Commanders of the

Star of India.

Wives of Knights Commanders of SS.

Michael and George.

Wives of Knights Commanders of tho Order

of the Indian Empire.

Wives of Knights Commanders of the Royal

Victorian Order.

Wives of Knights Bachelors.

Wives of Companions of the Bath.

Wives of Companions of the Star of India.

Wives of Companions of SS. INIichacl and George,

Wives of Companions of the Order of the

Indian Empire.

Wives of Members of the Fourth Class of the

Royal Victorian Order.

Wives of Companions of the Distinguished

Service Order.

Wives of Members of tho Fifth Class of the

Royal Victorian Order.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of the Younger

Sons of Peers.

Daughters of the Younger Sons of Peers.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Baronets.

Daughters of Baronets.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights of

the Garter.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights Bannerets.

Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights.

Daughters of Knights.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Baronets.

Wives of the Younger Sons of Knights.

Wives of Esquires and Gentlemen.

PRESENTATION AT COURT

The reign of King Edward VII. saw many

ehanges in regard to tho ceremonies connected

with presentations and attendance at Court, and

it is presumed that tho rules proscribed by our

late king will be continued by King Goorgo. In

Queen Victoria's reign presentations were made

at " Drawing Rooms," which were held in the

day-time. Now the evening " Court " has super-

seded the old-time drawing-room. Tho time at

which these Courts are held is 10 p.m., and the

Lord Chamberlain gives previous notice as to

what time the company is expected to arrive.

Attendance and presentation at the Courts are

by invitation only, these invitations being con-

veyed through the Lord Chamberlain. Ladies

who wish to be presented at Court can only

be presented through one of their relatives or

acquaintances who has already been presented.

The one who makes the presentation must

attend the same Court as the lady she is pre-

senting.

Former Presentations. - Ladies who have been

presented at any Drawing Room held during

the reign of Iving Edward VII. do not require

to be again presented to King George and

Queen Mary. Whenever these ladies wish to

attend a Court or make a presentation they

should send in their names and the names of

those whom they wish to present to the Lord

Chamberlain, before the date by which the

Lord Chamberlain gives notice that all names

must be sent in.

Who may be Presented at Court. - All those

of good social position and of good reputation

are eligible for presentation at Court. No lady,

however high her rank, would be admitted

to Court if there were the least stain upon

her reputation. The wives and daughters

of members of the aristocracy, members of

parliament, the various professions, bankers,

merchants, in fact, all people of recognised sub-

stantial position are eligible for presentation,

providing a lady who has already been presented

is willing to fulfil this office for them.

Making Presentations. - The lady making the

presentation must be personally responsible ior

the character of the lady she presents. She

may present hei own daughters or daughters-

in-law and only one other lady in addition.

Presentations at each of their Majesties Courts

are limited by Royal Command.

Oflicial Presentations. - Presentations may be

made officially by the foreign ambassadresses,

the wives of members of tho Cabinet, and of

other official personages in tho several depart-

ments of the State. The restriction in regard

to tho presentation of one person only does not

apply to official presentations.

Ladies have to be presented again upon their

marriage and upon accession to titles. A lady

having been presented on her marriage may

attend any subsequent Court by invitation, but

if sho has no official position, she is only expected

to attend a Court once every fourth year.

Preliminary Formalities. - Only married ladies

may make presentations. An unmarried lady,

however high her rank, does not possess this

privilege. When a married lady desires to bo

presented she should write to the Lord Chamber-

lain requesting this honour, and stating in full

the name and rank of her husband, and of her

parents, and of the lady who is presenting her.

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

359

In the case of a girl debutante her mother or

the relative who is to present her should make

the application. It is necessary for a lady

making a presentation to attend herself at the

Court at which the presentation is to be made,

though it is not necessary for her to accompany

the person whom she presents. A married lady

presented at a Com-t can herself make a presenta-

tion at the same Court, but the person presented

by her must enter the Presence Chamber after

her and not before her.

Etiquette of Presentation. - At the beginning

of the year the Lord Chamberlain inserts a

notice in the newspapers requesting those who

wish to attend one of the Courts diu-ing the

year to send in their names ; usually the number

of Courts to be held aniounts to four, sometimes

five. Ladies who wish to attend them send

in their names, and also the names of the

ladies thoy wish to present. The Lord Chamber-

lain then forwards to each lady a card to be

filled up with full particulars, and when tliis

has been duly done and all is found satisfactory

an intimation is received from the Lord

Chamberlain that her name has been put on

the list for attendance at the Court, and the

invitation arrives.

Privilege of the Entree. - The Diplomatic

Circle, Cabinet Ministers and their wives, and

the members of the Household have what is

known as the Privilege of the Entree. They

enter at the gate of the Palace situated outside

Buckingham Gate. The rooms next to the

Presence Chamber are allotted to them. Those

who have the privilo'j;e of entree are received

by their Majesties according to precedency and

before the general assembly. In regard to the

general assembly there is no precedency as to

which ladies enter the Presence Chamber, the

earhest arrivals being the first admitted to

their Majesties' presence. Those who have the

privilege of entree have also the privilege of

making the first presentations.

Arrival at the Palace. - Upon arrival at the

palace a lady leaves her cloak in the cloak-room.

She must not forget to take her invitation card

with her. After being divested of her cloak she

goes through the hall and up the Grand Staircase

of the Palace to the corridor, carrying her train

upon her left arm. Her train must be carried

in tliis way until it is taken down and spread out

for her before entering the Presence Chamber.

She will not have to touch it in any way as all

this is done for her. In her right hand she holds

her box^quot - in her left hand the in^vitation

card. This she must be careful to hold right

side uppermost so that the name can be read

at once. When she has reached the corridor

she must show the invitation card to the page

in waiting, and then pass through into one of

the saloons. If the saloons are full she takes

a seat in the corridor until there is room for

her to enter. From tiie saloons she passes in

her turn to the Picture Gallery. Here her train,

is let down and spread out by two pages in

attendance, and she crosses through the Gallery

to the Presence Chamber, giving her card to the

usher at the door. There is usually a long line

of ushers, but the card is given to the nearest one

and is passed on by hinn until it reaches the

Lord Chamberlain. There will be a long Une of

ladies passing in turn to make their curtseys

in the royal presence. The debutante will make

one of that hne, and she must pay particular

attention to her deportment, because the least

gaucherie will make her conspicuous. The skirt

of her dress will be long enough in front to hide

her shoes - these should never be shown in any

circumstances ; the walk should be a graceful,

gliding movement, the feet gently pushing the

long silken skirts forward to prevent any danger

of tripping or other similar contretemps.

An important Point. - One important point for

the debutante to remember is that she must

never stand still once she has taken her place

in the hne of ladies who have entered the

Presence Chamber. She must keep walking,

taking very tiny steps if necessary, and if the

space between herself and the lady" in front of

her is so limited that the train of the latter is

in her way, it is permissible for her to gently

push it aside with her foot.

The Curtsey. - When it is her turn to curtsey

before the King the Lord Chamberlain reads

the name of the debutante, pronouncing the

magic words " to be presented." The debutante

must be right in front of the Eang as she

makes her curtsey. Needless to say, the curtsey

should be the perfection of grace, and requires a

great deal of rehearsal beforehand. Keeping the

body gracefully erect she should glide the left

foot backwards, and bending the knees, but not

the back, make the obeisance ; the right hand

containing the bouquet should be lowered

slightly so that the bouquet may not be in the

way. All appearance of nervousness and

fluster should be avoided. Wliilst paying her

homage the debutante should endeavour to

wear a cheerful expression, and as she rises

from the curtsey she should gracefully incline

her head to the King in acknowledgment, then

beginning on the right foot as she rises she

should take three gliding steps towards the

Queen, ciirtseying to her in the same way.

After rising and gently inclining her head as

to the King, she must follow the Une of ladies

who have already been presented, making her

way out of the Presence Chamber, ^\^lcn she

reaches the door she must turn quickh', holding

out her left arm with the elbow b>nt to receive

her train, wliich the page will throw over it.

She must bo sure to do this quickly in order

to catch it at the proper moment, or much

awkwardness might result.

Ladies do not now step backwards when leav-

ing the Royal Presence, nor do they curtsey to

360

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

any other members of the Royal Family but

the King and Queen. Formerly upon being

presented to Queen Victoria eacli lady had to

remove the glove from the right hand, and

when the words "to bo presented " were

tittered by tlie Lord Cliamberlain the Queen

would extend her hand, and the debutante

placing her own ungloved hand beneath Her

Majestj-"s, would kiss it as she made her curtsey.

Now a lady upon being presented does not kiss

the King's hand, but only curtseys to the

King and then to the Queen, who bow in

return.

There are so many points of etiquette in

r^ard to a presentation at Court that it is

absolutely necesseiry for a lady about to be

presented to take at leeist one lesson in deport-

ment beforehand. Mrs. Wordsworth of 47

Harrington Road, South Kensington, London,

•who is one of the best-known authorities on

Court etiquette and deportment, coaches debu-

tantes for the occasion of their presentation.

She teaches them how to hold their trains, how

to walk, how to curtsey, and how to conduct

themselves generally in the Royal Presence.

A lady's first appearance at Court is apt to be

somewhat of an ordeal when she is not quite

au fait with the procedure, and even if she is

fortunate enough not to make any actual faux

pas, her fear of doing so will keep her mind in

a state of constant perturbation. On the other

hand, she will have acquired the ease born of

self-confidence if she goes to Court fittingly

prepared. By arrangement with ^Irs. Words-

worth, classes for the purpose of instruction in

Court deportmonfe may be held by herself or her

assistants at all provincial and country districts.

Private lessons can also be arranged in the

same manner.

Court Dress. - Ladies must wear full Court

dress when attending or being presented at

Court ; the train to the dress must not be less

than three and a half yards in length. The

bodice must be low, and the sleeves short. The

train may be of any shape, and it may either

hang from the shoulders or from the waist.

A presentation dress should be white, but it

may be trimmed with coloured flowers if desired.

Plumes. - The head-dress consists of a veil

of white tulle and plumes. All ladies, married

and unmarried, must wear plumes. The married

ladies wear three white plumes, the unmarried

ladies two.

High Court Dress. - For the benefit of old

ladies and those who suffer from delicacy or

ill-health, the Queen has approved of a High

Coui t dress which maj' be worn by those to whom

for any of these reasons the ordinary low Court

dress is unsuitable. The bodice is cut square

or heart-shaped in front and filled in with

white. At the back the bodice may be high

or cut down the same way as the front.

The sleeves to the bodice are of elbow-length.

Ladies who wish to appear in High Court

dress must first obtain the Queen's permission.

White gloves only should be worn, excepting

in cases of mourning.

Bouquets are carried by both married and

unm"m:ied ladies.

CHURCH DECORATION

Women are often called upon to assist in the

decoration of their parish chiu-ch at various

festivals, and if they do not actually help in

the work they may hke to send in some floral

contributions. In doing this it is well to re-

member that all the colours employed in tlio

decoration of the church have some special

significance. Thus : -

White signifies innocence, glory, and joy.

Red stands for (o) the fire of love which the

Holy Ghost kindles within us ; (6) the blood of

the Martyrs.

Gold signifies glory.

Blue signifies Heaven, knowledge, contem-

plation.

Purple signifies penitence and fasting.

Black, death and darkness.

Green, the hope and desire of Heaven.

In regard to floral decoration, therefore, white

is the most appropriate colour for the wiiite

daj's, such as Cliristmas, the Circumcision, the

Epiphany, and Easter. WTiite and gold are

generally used for the latter festival, the Easter

Lily being a particularlj^ appropriate flower for

altar decoration on Easter Sunday. On Palm

Sunday the altar may be decorated with palms ;

the general decoration may also include bos,

yew, and wiUow.

Red is the colour for Pentecost and feasts

of martjTS.

Purple is the colour for Lent, with the excep-

tion of Good Friday, when black is used. As

a rule there should be no floral decorations

sent for either Advent or Lent ; this rule is,

however, generally departed from on the third

Sunday in Advent, the fourth Sunday in Lent,

and Holy Innocents' Day.

Christmas time is undoubtedly the festival

of the year when church decoration assumes

its most interesting aspect. Many church

workers eagerly volunteer their service not

only in regard to the decoration of the altar,

but also in regard to that of tlio whoie church.

Holly is the leading feature of the church de-

coration, whilst ivy, rosemary, and bay enter

into the general decorative scheme. Wreaths

of holly, ivy, and other green leaves are twisted

in and out around all the pillars, and wherever

there is a window-ledge or recess it is banked

with holly and green leaves. Very few people

know how to make wreaths and festoons properly.

It is always best to have a =olid foundation of

fine cording, and to make up bunches of holly

and leaves, tying them to this cording foundation

ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE

361

at regular intervals of a few inches the one from

the other. The bunches of holly and leaves

can be tied with fine twine, and the worker

should have all the necessary implements, such

as scissors, string, &c., ready to hand. If the

wreaths or festoons have no foundation of the

kind, and the various bunches are only tied

together and joined to one another without

the support of cord, they are apt to break away

from each other and thus present an untidy

appearance.

If several workers are engaged in decorating

the church at Christmas time it is always as

well to have some scheme of organisation by

which each member is allotted a particular

task ; under these circumstances the work is

brought to a quicker and a much more satis-

factory conclusion.

LIST OF LADIES' CLUBS

The following is a list of the principal Clubs in London with the Entrance and Subscription Fees.

Ahbreviatioiis- A.V.- Annual Subscription or Fee.

E.F.- Entrance Fee.

CM.- Country Member.

LONDON

Albemarle (Ladies and Gentlemen).- 37 Dover Street, W. E. F. £6, 6s. A. F. £6, 6s.

Alexandra.- 12 Grosvenor Street, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £5, 5s. C. M. £4, 4s.

Alliance.- 61 Curzon Street, Mayfair, W. A. F. £3, 3s.

Austral (Ladies and Gentlemen).- 38 Dover Street, W. E, F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s, C. M.

£2, 2s.

Athenoeu7n.-U Dover Street, W. E. F. £5, 6s. A. F. £5, 5s.

Army and Navy. - 2 Burlington Garden, W. E. F. £3, 3s. A. F. £5, 5s.

Empress.- 35 Dover Street, W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £5, 5s.

Empire.- m Grosvenor Street, W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £8, 8s.

Ladies' Imperial. - 17 Dover Street, W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £5, 5s.

Ladies' Park.- 32 Knightsbridge, S.W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £4, 4s. and £3, Ss.

Lyceum.- US Piccadily, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £4, 4s. C. M. £3, 3s.

New Century. -Hay Hill, Berkeley Square, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £1, Is.

New County.- 21 Hanover Square, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s.

New Era.- 67 Curzon Street, Mayfair, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s. C. M. £2, 2s.

New Victorian.- 30a Sackville Street, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s.

Pioneer.- 5 Grafton Street, Piccadilly, W. E. F. £3, 3s. A. F. £3, 3s. and £2, 2s.

Sesame (Ladies and Gentlemen).- 28 and 29 Dover Street, W. E. F. £6, 6s. A. F. £6, 6s.

University. - 4 George Street, Hanover Square, W. E. F. £1, Is. A. F. £1, 10s.

Victoria.- U5 Victoria Street, S.W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £5, 5s. C. M. £3, 3s.

TFn £1, Is.

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

How to keep within her income or allowance besides leaving a margin for savings and unforeseen

expenses is a problem wliich many a harassed housewife heis failed to solve. The simple rules in

regard to the suitable apportionment of the allowance and the best methods of keeping check upon

expenditure, which are given in the first part of tliis chapter, have been compiled as the result of

actual experience - they have been tried and found successful. In addition, all that every woman

ought to know in connection with the management of her affairs, including such important questions

as banking, insurance, and those points of law wliich are liable to crop up in ordinary every-day life,

are described and explained in as simple a manner as possible.

Allotment of the Income. - The value of money

is one of the first things every woman should

learn, and tliis is especially necessary in the

case of those who have anything to do with

household management, as the basis of all good

housekeeping lies in the proper control of the

household purse.

It would be a very good thing if every young

girl could be taught to keep an accurate account

of her own pocket-money as a preliminary to

undertaking expenses on a largo scale.

Successful management does not depend so

much on the size of the income, but rather upon

the spending of it to the best advantage. Those

who get into trouble with a small amount would

no doubt have similar difficulties if their income

were doubled or even trebled.

First of all then it is important to ascertain

the exact amount of your income, or at least

how much of it may bo safely expended on the

various items which come under the heading

of Household Expenses.

When starting housekeeping it is a good plan

to portion out the income so as to make it cover

all the expenses that are likely to occur for a

period of, say, throe months, six montlis, or a

year. For this purpose each detail of expen-

diture must bo jottod down under a distinctive

heading, such as rent, food, clothing, education,

&c., and a certain sum allotted to each division.

Everything must be bomo in mind, not only

the Current Expenses, i.e. those which run on

from day to day, such as rent and taxes, house-

hold expenses, insurance, charities, clothing,

and perhaps school fees, &c., but also Occasional

Expenses, such as holidays, travelling, recrea-

tion, hospitalities, pcssible medical attendance,

and any special outlay. An effort should also

be made to have a Reserve Fund, so that some-

thing at least, even although it may be a small

amount, is saved each year. The list must then

be added up and the amount of the expenses

compared with the amount of the income.

If the sum of the income exceeds that of the

expenditure, tilings are quite safe, we are living

witliin our means ; but if it is less, one or other

of our expenses must be cut off or curtailed.

Many schemes for the proportionate allotment

of the income have been drawn up, such as the

following : - •

Bent and taxes ....

Household expenses .

Clothing and charities

Education and travelling .

Insurance, incidental and sa\ing

But a table of this sort can only serve as a guide

and not by any means as a hard-and-fast rule

to go by. In fact, it is quite impossible to

draw up any scheme which will apply to every

household, as conditions vary so considerably.

This drawing up of a plan demands a certain

amount of careful calculation, and perhaps

just at first it will be impossible to arrive at

the best division of the means at disposal, but

if after a few months' trial this or that part of

the scheme is found not to work well, it is easy

to make alterations until the best possible allot-

ment of the income is secured.

When the income is a fixed one this is com-

paratively easy ; it is whore it is fluctuating or

uncertain that the greater difficulty comes in,

and in this case one can only plan for a shorter

time and count on the lowest sum.

To begin with, the amount necessary to pay

for rent will vary in different places, and while

one-sixth might bo found necessary for a suitable

house in town, in country districts one-eighth or

oven one-tenth of the income would be ample. It

must be remembered that the amount of rent

paid will very much influence the style of living,

and that it is not wise to go beyond a sum that

is in proportion to one's means.

Then, again, education foes will be very heavy

362

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

363

in some families, or special training fees in

order to equip one or other of its members for

a chosen career in life, while in other households

this kind of outlay is practically nil.

Doctors' fees may never be required some

years, while at other times they may be abnor-

mally heavy.

Then expenses due to appearances amount

to a considerable sum in some cases, and they

cannot well be curtailed without damaging the

reputation of the head of the house. This is

especially noticeable in the households of pro-

fessional men or women where a shabby, mean

appearance either in dress or household appoint-

ments would materially injvu-e their career.

With regard to clothing, where much can be

made at home the expense is decidedly less,

but where this is impossible a larger sum must

of necessity be allowed.

Thus it will be seen that there are certain

expenses which can be reduced in some houses

and not in others, and that the plan must be

made out accordingly.

It is best therefore for the head of the family

to make out his or her own plan, always being

careful to keep the expenses within a safe limit.

The income should always overlap the outlay,

and, in addition, there should if possible be a

Reserve Fund, as mentioned above.

A certain sum having been apportioned to

each set of expenses a system of book-keeping

should then be started.

Where a husband and wife are at the head of

the house it very often happens that the man

pays all the expense,- except those connected

with clothing and the house - keeping proper,

handing over to his wife a fixed sum weekly

or monthly for these requirements. This will,

of course, simplify the book-keeping for the

house-mistress, although under all circum-

stances the method to be adopted is very much

the same.

It is one of the duties of the mistress of the

house to keep an accurate account of all money

that comes under her charge. Many women

have a strong objection to keeping accounts

and content themselves with a rule of thumb

method of managing their affairs ; but this

haphazard way of dealing with money is almost

sure to lead to trouble sooner or later. A house-

keeper who keeps accounts will be amply repaid

for her trouble, and although at first it may

seem irksome and almost too gi'eat a strain

upon one's time and thought, yet when once

a simple method of book-keeping has been

mastered the entries become almost mechanical

and cause no trouble. Correct accounts are a

most valuable help against habits of extra-

vagance, and a neat record of one's income

and expenditure is a possession by no means

to be despised.

An elaborate system of book-keeping is not

necessary ; in fact, the simpler the plan adopted

the better. There should first of all be a

Cash-Box. Every woman who has charge of

money should furnish herself with a cash-box

fitted with lock and key in which to keep all

the money she has in hand. If this box has

separate divisions in which to put gold, silver,

and coppers, it will be all the more useful. This

is very important when considerable sums of

money have to be dealt with, and even when

the amount is small it is alwaj's wiser not to

leave money in open places. To lock it up is

not a sign that we mistrust people's honesty ;

at the same time it is not fair to put temptation

in any one's way.

The next thing is a Cash-Book. This should

be of a very good size and be ruled with money

columns. There are several different house-

keeping books on the market, ruled ofi with

different headings under wliich to put the

different items, but these are, as a rule, too

complicated, and a simple account-book can be

made to serve the purpose admirably.

The cash-book should show three things at a

glance : (1) the amount of money received to

date ; (2) the i mount of money paid out to

date ; and (3) the balance.

On the right-hand page enter all pajTnents

made, putting the date to each day before be-

ginning the entries. This is called the credit

side, and is a record of all that goes out.

On the left-hand page enter all money you

have in hand to begin with, then anj' money

received or drawn from the bank with the cor-

responding dates. This is called the debit side

and is a record of all that comes in.

This is all that is required for the daily entries,

and ten minutes a day should suffice for the

transaction if the work is carried out with

regularity and accuracy.

Tlien at the end of the week or on a fixed

day each week the account should be balanced.

To Balance the Account. - To do this first add

up very carefully the columns on both pages,

and then compare the amount spent on the

right-hand page with the amount on the left-

hand page. If the amount on the credit side

is less than the sum entered on the debit side

the money remaining in the cash-box should

equal the difference. This is called the Balance

in Hand, and should be added on to the right-

hand page in order to make both columns aUke.

After ruling off the account the cash in hand

should be brought down to start the debit side

of the next week's account. When a page is

finished, whether it be the left-hand or the

right-hand one, the entries on both sides should

be stopped, and if one page has a blank space

left a line should bo drawn diagonally across it

to show that no further entries should be

made there.

Tlie plan given on the next page will serve to

show what is meant by the above explanation.

It is intended as a guide to method only.

364

THE WOMxVN'S BOOK

SPECIMEN PAGE OF CASH BOOK

Week ending May 14 -

WccJc ending May 14 -

May 9

Amount in band

May 9

Grocer

,. 9

Cash received .

,. 9

" 10

" 11

" 12

" 13

Dairy

Newspapers

Baker

Stationery

Household repairs

Flowers

Window-cleaning

Washing .

Cab fares .

Chemist .

Servants' wages

., 14

Cash in hand .

This keeping of a cash-book is the simplest

form of book-keeping, and if all that is required

is a simple record of the food bills and working

expenses of the household it may be deemed

sufficient ; but if the expenditure of the whole

income has to be accounted for something more

will be necessary. The drawback to this simple

form is that there is no attempt at classification,

and it does not show how the expenditure is

being divided under the various headings of

food, clothing, rent, &c., and whether the limits

agreed upon at the commencement are being

adhered to. To obtain this information the

different items would require to bo separately

posted to another book, and this book would

bo called The Lrdger.

To Post the Ledger. - At regular intervals all

the items in tho cash-book should bo cleissified in

another book. It is just a question how many

headings should bo made for household expen-

diture ; an over-detailed classification should bo

avf'ided, as it makes too much demand upon

our time. Hero, again, simplicity coupled with

accuracy should bo aimed at.

The number of headings must vary according

to circumstances, but tho minimum might be

the following : -

1. Rent and taxes.

2. Food account.

3. Other household expenses.

4. Clothing.

5. Education, books, and stationery.

6. Insurance aud charities.

7. Travelling and holiday expenses.

8. Incidental expenses.

The ledger need only be made up once in three

months, or at most once a month. We shall

then have an exact statement as to where tho

money has gone, and if retrenchment is nocosfaary

it will serve eis a distinct guide as to where wo

shall require to curtail expenditure.

The following table will serve as a guide to

the arrangement of the Ledger.

Quarterly Expenditure

£ .. d.

Rent and taxes 15 0 0

Food Account 30 10 0

Other household expenses . . . 12 14 0

Clothing II 18 0

Education, books and stationery . 14 0 0

Insurance and charities .... 8 17 0

Travelling and holidays .... 660

Incidental expenses 5 9 0

£104 14 0

Or, if the mistress of the house has only the

money spent on household bills to account for.

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

365

Grocer . .

Fishmonger

Baker . .

Butcher

a simple and more detailed analysis might be

made out monthly in the following manner : -

Monthly Household Bills

2 2 0

10 0

12 0

2 10 0

Milk, eggs and butter 1 10 0

Greengrocer 10 0

Wasiiing 180

Repairs 0 12 0

£11 4 0

HOUSEHOLD EXPENSES

This term applies to all expenses connected

with housekeeping proper, such as food, washing,

fuel and light, servants, wages, cleaning materials,

repairs, &c., so that the fixed sima which has

been allotted under the above heading will re-

quire to be judiciously apportioned amongst the

various items mentioned in order that it may

be used to the best advantage.

With regard to the actual food allowance,

there is great diversity of opinion as to what

should be spent per week. Certain fixed stan-

dards have indeed been set up which have come

to be regarded as reasonable, but these will

naturally vary with individual circumstances, as,

for instance, the number to be fed, individual

taste and requirements, and the means at

disposal.

The allowance for f". od is generally calciilated

at a certain sum per head. This sum will vary

in accordance with the number of people to be

provided for, a smaller amount per head being

necessary in the case of a lai'ge family than in

the case of a small one, the expense per head

in the case of one or two people being much

greater than in any other circumstances. For

a grown-up family of moderate means, where

all the members dine at home and meat is eaten

every day, and all have good healthy appetites,

lOs. per head per week would be thought a very

fair sum to provide a nice table with good

variety, a Httle extra being allowed for any

visitors. If this sum is beyond what can be

afforded a sufficiency of good nourishing food

can be provided for much less, or from 5s. to 8s.

per head, but this will require more thought

and management, and such things as game and

poultry would not figure largely on the bill of

fare. It is generally necessary to allow the same

amount for servants as for the other members

of the family. Of course, there are many whose

means are not limited who will consider the

above figiu-es ridiculously small, and who would

require 15s. or even £1 per week to supply all

their warts. The reason why a moderate

amount in many cases proves insufficient is

very often owing to waste of material, extrava-

gance in buying, or lack of knowledge as to

how to make the most of things.

A small food allowance presupposes favour-

able opportunities for marketing, as, for instance,

in the case of people living in the country where

garden produce is cheap and also farm produce,

although, on the other hand, they may have to

pay more for their groceries and butcher meat.

In order to use a food allowance to the best

advantage, a certain knowledge of cookery and

the dietetic properties of food is also necessary.

The house -mistress must just make up her mind

as to what is a legitimate amount to spend on

food, and if it comes to having to curtail ex-

penses there are always other ways of doing it,

but there must be a sufficiency of good whole-

some food before everything else.

It is not always an easy matter to cut down

expenditure, and few people enjoy economising,

yet in hundreds of cases it has to be done.

Saving can be effected in many ways. For

instance, one can discontinue the use of wine and

other Ivixuries, reduce the number of servants,

have washing done at home, make one's own

clothes, and last, but not least, avoid spending

money on trifles. This is a perfect habit with

some people. Shop windows have such a fasci-

nation for them that they can rarely pass by with-

out going in to buy some knick-knack or other,

spending as much money in this way as they

do on drefs, and there is nothing to show for it.

Sales are also a temptation to many : they are

persuaded to buy an article or piece of material

for which they have not the slightest need,

simply because the price looks cheap, and they

do not like to miss what seems to them a bargain,

when in reality it is waste of money. The

greatest point of all in cutting down expenditure

is to prevent waste and to adopt economical

methods without in any way being mean and

stingy.

Payment of Household AccouQts. - It is just a

question whether it is better to pay ready money

or to have weekly, fortnightly, or monthly ac-

counts. If the ready-money system is adopted

it means more entering up each day, and there

is more detail work. A small note-book would

require to be kept in addition to the cash-book

in order to jot down each payment when it is

made, as it is useless to burden one's memory

unnecessarily. But it is not easy to pay ready

money for everything, and upon the whole

weekly payments, which practically amount to

the same thing, are preferable, as they save the

trouble of so many small payments. A set

of house-books too save an amount of trouble,

and seem to keep the matter in a more concise

form. In small households this system should

certainly be adopted, and especially so if the

income is a limited one. Running up long bills

is not economical, and if you wish to be well

served you should make up your mind to pay

the house-books regularly.

366

THE WO^IAN'S BOOK

Of coxirse there are special circumstances

where it is not convenient to pay weekly, and

where even the trades-people prefer a montlily

payment, but the books sliould in any case

be made up and chocked weoklj'. If accounts

are only rendered once a month it is much

more difficult to keep a check on the items, and

mistakes are apt to pass uimoticed.

The Checking and Filing of Bills. - Each bill

as it is received should be carefullj' examined

and the various items checked and verified.

Bills should never be paid until this has been

done. Tlie small vouchers which ought to ac-

company all goods sent in by the trades-people

must be kept for this purpose, and also all

weight tickets such as would be sent with meat

or coal. With regard to milk and bread, which

are usuallj* taken daily from a man at the door,

it is a good plan to keep a small book or slate

at hand in which the daily amount is marked

down.

All bills, when they have been paid, should be

receipted and kept for future reference. Occa-

sionally a bill may be presented a second time,

and this mistake may happen even with the

best houses, and unless the receipt can be pro-

duced the pajonent will in all probability have

to be made again. Loose bills can either be

kept on files bought for the purpose, or they

can be folded lengthwise with the name and

date of payment outside, and then encircled

with an india-rubber band. Tliey must always

be arranged in an order which ^^'ill allow of

ready discovery.

BANKING

The Business of a Bank. - The bank is a most

important factor in both our commercial and

social life. Nearly all payments in business are

made through the medium of a bank, and almost

every individual of any standing in private hfo

has a banking account.

Besides taking charge of the money of liis

customers, it is a banker's business to pay

cheques issued by them, to collect the value of

cheques paid to them, to attend to and discount

their bills, and, if necessary, to take charge of

their securities, their jewels, or other valuable

property. The money that is paid into a bank

is not allowed to lie idle in its safes. If that

were so there would be no profit in a banker's

business. A large proportion is lent by the

bank at a much higher rate of interest than

is paid to depositors. The difference in this

interest represents the banker's profits.

Interest. - Interest is a certain sum paid in

return for the use of money. It is always

calculated at so much per cent. {i.e. per hundred)

jjer annum. Thus -

2i per cent. =£2, lOs. in every £100, Cd. in every £1.

5 per cent. =£5 in every £100, is. in every £1.

7J per cent. =£7, lOs. in every £100, Is 6d. in every £1.

10 per cent. =£10 in every £100, 2s. in every £1.

Simple and Compound Interest. - The sum

upon wliich interest is eillowed is called the

" principal." The interest allowed upon the

original " principal " only is called " simple

interest." ^\^len, however, the simple interest

is allowed to accumulate and be added to the

principal, it ranks as an increased principal, and

interest calculated upon the larger sum obtained

in this way is known as " compound interest."

Bank Notes. - Some banks have a right to

issue bank notes to the public. These are

printed on special paper and are equivalent to

their amount in cash. English bank notes are

issued for sums of £5 and upwards, while

Scottish and Irish banks issue £1 notes as well.

Bank of England notes are legal tender, and are

accepted both in Britain and abroad almost as

readily as gold. £1 Scotch or Irish notes are

only of the value of 19s. lid. in England.

How to Open a Banking Account. - Some

women have a very vague idea of the formalities

to be observed in opening a banking account,

and of the difference between what is known

as a Deposit Account and a Current or Credit

Account.

In opening a banking account it is usually

necessary to have an introduction to the bank

from some person known to it. £50 is usually

the minimimi sum for which London banks

will open an account ; but there are, of course,

exceptions, and accounts are opened for much

smaller sums by most of the suburban and

provincial houses.

The Deposit Account. - If it is wished to leave

the money on deposit at interest the bank will

have to be notified that a " Deposit " account

is to be opened. The customer will then have

to write her signature clearly and distinctly in

the bank's signature book for purposes of

identification, and she will receive a receipt

from the bank known as a " Deposit Receipt."

In London interest should be paid on the sum

deposited at the rate of 1^ per cent, below bank

rate (see p. 309) ; that is, if the bank rate is

4 per cent, she will obtain interest at the rate

of 2 J per cent.

A week or a fortnight's notice is usually re-

qiu'red by a bank before the withdrawal of money

left on deposit. It is as well to ascertain what

notice is required before banking money in this

way. Many banks, however, are willing to pay

the money without notice when necessary. The

deposit receipt should be sent to the bank every

six months in order that the interest may be

calculated. The latter may be withdrawn or

arVled to the principal as preferred.

Joint Deposits. - A deposit may be made

jointly by more than one person. In this case

all the names will appear on the receipts, and

the money will not be paid over except on receipt

of all the signatures ; so it would, where desired,

be convenient to have the receipt made out

payable upon the signature of a certain one only.

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

367

If the depositor dies, the money can be with-

drawn by the executor or administrator upon

production of the probate or letters of ad-

ministration.

It is never wise to be secretive in regard to

money deposited with a bank, for if the de-

positor should die and the receipt were over-

looked or lost, and consequently no demand

ever made for payment, the bank would not

think of communicating with the deceased per-

son's relatives, and at the end of six years

the unclaimed deposit would become the bank's

own property.

Credit or Current Account. - A current account

is one from which the customer may draw money

by cheque at will, and into which she can make

payments when convenient.

A woman should be careful never to vary her

signature in signing cheques, but to keep it in

every way the same as that by which she signed

her name in the signature book. Until the

officials at the bank become familiar with her

writing all signatures on cheques are compared

with that in the signature book for identifica-

tion, and should there be any marked discrepancy

between the two, difficulty in obtaining payment

of the cheques might result.

The bank generally makes a charge equivalent

to an eighth per cent, upon the withdrawals

for the working of a small account.

After the customer has compUed with the

preliminaries of signing her name in the bank's

signature book, and paying in the money, the

bank will hand her a " paying-in " slip book,

a " pass-book," and a cheque-book.

The Paying-in Book. - Each page of the

paying-in " slip book " is perforated down the

centre. Particulars of the amount paid in,

whether by gold, silver, or notes, country or

London cheques, are filled in on each side of the

perforation, then the book is handed to the

receiving cashier, who tears off the right-hand

slip for the use of the bank, initialling the one

that remains in the book, leaving it both as

record and receipt in the hands of the customer.

The Pass-Eook. - In the customer's pass-book

the bank enters all records of the account in

regard to sums paid in and withdrawals. In a

little pocket in the pass-book are placed all

cheques whicli have been paid away by the

customer and returned to i\ e bank in the course

of business. It is as well to keep these cheques,

as they form incontestable proof and receipts of

money paid out. The pass-book should be left

in the hands of the bank as much as possible

in order that the accounts can be regularly

kept.

The Cheque-Book.- The cheque-book is a book

containing a certain number of stamped forms

called " cheques," which every bank suppUes

to its customers, who are charged with the cost

of the stamps. Each cheque is perforated so

that it can be easily detached from the book.

To the left of the perforation is a small counter-

foil which remains in the book, and upon

which a record of each payment by cheque is

entered.

Tlie cheque presents many mysteries to the

average feminine mind. Briefly, a bank cheque

is an order in writing to a bank from its customer

to pay on demand a certain sum of money to

a person whose name is given on the cheque.

Each cheque is hable to a stamp duty of one

penny, and the stamp is usually impressed upon

the printed form. The person who draws the

cheque is called the " drawer," and the person

or firm to whom it is payable is called the

" payee."

A cheque may be drawn " to order " or "to

bearer." In the former case the " payee "

can obtain payment at the bank named by

writing her name across the back of the cheque.

This is known as " endorsing " a cheque.

An order cheque always needs endorsing,

whereas it is not necessary to endorse a cheque

made payable to " bearer " ; any person can

obtain payment on presenting a " bearer "

cheque.

Alteration on Cheques. - A cheque can be

altered from " bearer " to " order " by running

the pen through the former word and sub-

stituting the word " order." This may be done

by the drawer or the payee, but only the drawer

may alter a cheque from " order " to " bearer,"

it being necessary in this case to put his or her

initials under the correction made. Any altera-

tion in the amount must be initialled by the

drawer.

Great care should always be taken in filling

in a cheque. The first figure of the sum payable

should alwaj-s be placed close to the £ mark,

so that there is no possibiUty of another figure

being placed before it. In the same way the

dots or hyphen separating the pounds from

shillings should be close to the last figure of the

pounds, so that there is no chance of adding a

figiu-e to the pounds total.

Crossing Cheques. - Cheques are crossed for

greater safety and to ensure their being paid

into a banking account. When crossed cheques

are used the risk of fraud is greatly minimised.

A crossed cheque cannot be exchanged for

cash at the coimter of the bank of the drawer ;

the payee must pay it into her own bank if she

has one. If not she must get change for it

from some one who has.

Different Methods of Crossing Cheques. - A

cheque is crossed generally by drawing across its

face two parallel transverse lines either with

or without the words "and Co." between them.

Cheques so crossed cannot be exchanged for

cash at the counter of the bank. The payee

must employ her banker to collect the money for

her by paying it into her bank account. If she

has not a bank accoimt she must get some one

who has one to cash it for her.

368

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

It is crossed specially (1) by inserting the

name of the bank through which the pajTiient is

Examples of General Crossings.

to be made, in the crossing, or (2) by inserting

the name of the person to whose account the

payment is to be made, or (3) by inserting

both the name of the bank and the name of the

person to whose account it has to be credited.

Examples of Special Crossings.

U) Means that the cheque can only be cashed through

Parr's Bank.

(2) Means that only the payee can get cash for the

cheque, and only from the hank where he has an account.

(3) Specifies not only tlie account to which the cheque

is to be paid, but the biuik where such account is kept.

The crossing of a cheque does not affect its

negotiability, and if a crossed cheque has been

stolen after being endorsed, the person who

takes it from the thief in good faith and gives

value for it can enforce payment of it, even

though the cheque has been stopjjed. The loss

will fall upon the payee. In order to destroy

the negotiability of a cheque, the words, " not

negotiable " must form part of the crossing.

Whoever then takes the cheque can have no

better title to it than the person who gave it to

him had.

Aa a still further safeguard to prevent the

addition of figtires, it is well to %\Tite across the

cheque that the sum is under a certain amount.

For instance, the words " under ten pounds "

written across a cheque for nine pounds would

clearly indicate that the amount was £9 and

not £90, and all possibiUty of fraud would

be prevented.

Dishonoured Cheques. - A cheque is said to be

dishonoured when it is returned from the bank

because the drawer has not sufficient money to

his (or her) credit to meet it. Cheques returned

in this way arc qronerally marked " R.D." (refer

to drawer) or " N.S." (not sufficient funds).

Stopping Payment. - A drawer can stop pay-

ment of a cheque after having parted with it

by immediately notifying her banker in writing

not to pay it on presentation. Full details as

to date, amount, and name of payee should be

given. A payee who has lost a cheque after

ha\dng endorsed it should at once notify the

drawer of tliis fact, so that payment is stopped

before any one else has had time to cash it.

How to Write a Cheque on Ordinary Paper. -

All cheques should be drawn upon the form

provided by the banker ; this tends to prevent

forgery, and at the same time is more convenient

to the customer, as the counterfoils in the

cheque-book may be made a useful means of

record. But there is nothing to prevent a

cheque being drawn upon an ordinary sheet of

paper if the customer so desires, though in that

case the signature should be written across a

penny postage stamp.

Cheques Payable to Self. - An order cheque

may be made payable to the drawer. In this

case it must be filled in " Pay to Self," and must

be endorsed by the drawer.

Delay in Cashing Cheques. - Cheques should

always be presented for payment as soon as

possible. When the payee holds back a cheque

for as long as six months, the banker will not

cash it until he has obtained the consent of

the drawer. Cheques are subject to the Statute

of Limitations, and therefore payment cannot

be enforced if they are presented after six years.

Overdrafts. - A customer who is able to furnish

her bank with good securities may obtain an

advance or " overdraft " from her bankers

should she so wish it. On any of the following

securities overdrafts may be arranged : - Consols,

Colonial Government Stock, Municipal Bonds,

railway debentures, good industrial stoclta and

shares, personal securities and life policies.

The money lent in this manner by the bank

is debited with interest to an account called the

" loan account." The whole sum is then placed

to the customer's current account, and the

customer has to pay interest on the whole sum

borrowed, even though the necessities of her

case may require part of the sum to lie to her

credit in the current account.

Unless an overdraft has been arranged with

her bank it is dangerous for a woman to draw

cheques for a larger amount than the balance

at her credit. By doing so she incurs the dis-

credit of having her cheques returned dis-

honoured from the bank to the payee.

Circular Notes. - When a woman going abroad

wishes to avoid the risk and trouble of carrying

large sums of money she can obtain from her

banker " circular notes," in each of which the

banker requests his foreign correspondents to

pay to the person named in an accompanying

letter a certain sum. This letter is called " a

letter of indication," and is signed by the banker

and by the payee, in order to lessen the risks

of personation and of forgery. It contains a

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

list of the foreign banks at which the circular

notes can be cashed. These notes are of no

value without the letter of indication and vice

versd.

Bank of England. - The most important of all

oiir banks is the Bank of England. It may be

said, indeed, to be a national institution.

It fixes the rate of interest, is the bank in

which the revenue collected by the Government

from all parts of the country is deposited, and

is the agent for the Government in transacting

all such financial business as relates to the

raising of Government loans whether for perma-

nent or for temporary purposes. It also holds

the cash reserves of other banks and manages

the bvisiness in connection with the National

Debt. Apart from these special circvmistances,

the Bank of England is in the same position as

all other banks, transacting business as a private

bank in the same manner as they do.

Bank Rate is the name given to the price at

winch the Bank of England states it is willing

to grant loans.

The raising of the bank rate means that more

will be charged upon loans and paid upon

deposits. The lowering of the bank rate means

that less will be charged upon loans and paid

upon deposits.

The bank rate varies with the supply of and

demand for gold. A high rate indicates that

there is a scarcity of money in the market, and

the bank rate is raised whenever there is Hkely

to be an outflow of gold from England. When

the bank reserve is high, and there is a great

influx of money, the rate is lowered.

The London banks generally allow interest on

deposits at 1^ per cent, below bank rate unless

the latter is very low.

The Bank Return. - Every week the Bank of

England issues a report as to its financial posi-

tion. This is known as the " Bank Return,"

and every week each of the leading newspapers

publishes an analysis of the bank rotiirn in what

is known as the " Money Article."

The return is made up by the bank on

Wednesday, and a copy posted up outside the

bank on the following Thiu-sday afternoon.

The Post Office Savings Bank.- The Post Office

Savings Banks are established by Act of Parlia-

ment, and every depositor has the direct security

of the State for the repayment of deposits.

Unlike ordinary banks, where it is very seldom

that an account can be opened for less than

£50, m the Post Office Savings Bank an account

may be opf led for one shilling.

For the savings of a woman of limited income

the Post Office Sa\'ings Bank is the ideal medium,

for interest at the rata of 2^ per cent, per annum

IS allowed on every complete pound deposited,

and any sum from one shilling upwards, but

excluding pence, is accepted as an ordinary

deposit. The depositor can open her account

at any post office in the United Kingdom

365

She is handed a book, at the beginning of which

she must sign her name, address, and occupation,

intimating whether she is married or single'

In this book the Post Office officials enter each

payment as it is made, stamping it with the

stamp of the office into which the money is

paid. Tliis constitutes a sufficient receipt for

any sum under £5; but for sums of £5 and

upwards a receipt is received by post from the

head of the Savings Bank Department in

London, In this book all withdrawals are also

entered. Money withdrawals can be made from

any post office branch in the Kingdom. For

sums of over £1 a withdrawal form must be

asked for, and this, when filled in, is posted to

the chief office of the Savings Bank Department

in London, the depositor receiving in the course

of a day or two a warrant for payment of the

amount she wishes to withdraw. She can

obtain payment of this warrant at any post

office on the production of her bank book, into

which the necessary entries have to be made.

She can also pay money in to her account at any

post office.

Any sum up to a pound may be withdrawn

'' on demand " at any post office by filling in a

" withdrawal on demand form," but in these

circumstances the depositor is required to hand

over her book, which is sent to the head office

of the Savings Bank Department for examination.

No charge ^or postage is made to the depositor,

if in the United Kingdom, for any letter passing

between her and the chief office on Post Office

Savings Bank business.

No more than £50 can be deposited in one

year except for investment in Government

Stock or for the purchase of an Annuity or

Insurance (see p. 372). Except for the same

purposes no deposit can be made which causes

the balance due to a depositor, including interest,

to exceed £200.

Forms to which stamps may be affixed are

supplied at the post office for the assistance of

children and others who are unable to save more

than a penny or two at a time. For each penny

saved a stamp is purchased and affixed to the

form. When twelve stamps have been affixed

in this manner, the form can be handed in at

any of the post offices as a shilling deposit.

It \ril] be seen that the Post Office puts every

facility in the way of people with hmited in-

comes for saving their " mite," however small

it is, with the added benefit of a fair rate of

interest and also the advantage of economy in

the working of its accounts, and absolute

security.

Post Office Savings Bank Accounts may be

opened on behalf of children under seven years

of age, but in this case the money may not be

withdrawn until the child has attained that age.

All childi-en of seven years and upwards might

well be encouraged to save their money in tliis

simple way. The sense of responsibiUty im

370

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

parted by the management of their own little

accounts will tend to inculcate a knowledge of

the value of money, combined with a habit of

thrift which cannot fail to stand them in good

stead in later years.

DEBT

A debt is a certain svun of money owed by

one person to another. The person who owes

money is termed the debtor, and the person to

whom the money is owed is known as the

creditor.

Recovery of Debt. - If, after several applica-

tions for payment of a debt by the creditor, the

debtor still fails to pay it, the usual means of

procedure for the creditor to take for its recovery

is to sue the debtor for it.

Where to Sue lor a Debt. - If the debt is less

than £20 the creditor must bring his action in

the County Court. Where the debt is between

£20 and £100 the creditor ottght to bring his

action in the County Court, unless he is certain

that the debtor has no defence to the claim,

in which case he may bring it in the High Coiirt

and obtain summary judgment against the

debtor, a more expeditious way than the process

of the County Court. \Vhere debt exceeds £100

proceedings must be first instituted in the High

Court, though in some cases the High Court

will remit the action for hearing in the County

Court.

Limitations of Actions lor Debt. - Actions to

recover ordinary debts must be brought witliin

six years from the time when they became duo,

or within six years of the last pajTnent or any

part of the principal or interest, or within six

years of the last acknowledgment in writing of

the debt, which acknowledgment must uncondi-

tionally import a promise to pay : a conditional

promise will cause it to be invalid as an ac-

knowledgment.

In the case of debts due upon a bond or other

instrument under seal, including mortgage debts

and debts under a Bill of Sale, the period of

limitation is twenty years, and in action for the

recovery of money charged on lands for the

recovery of the land itself the time limit is

twelve years.

Banliruptcy. - The law of bankruptcy affords

relief to insolvent debtors who, by surrendering

their property for the benefit of their creditors,

are in return relieved from liability in regard to

their debts. A petition of bankruptcy can be

filed by the debtor himself, or by his creditors.

The Court then issues a " Receiving Order," by

which the Official Receiver becomes the receiver

or protector of the property until a trustee has

been appointed by the creditors. Within seven

days of the receiving order being made the

debtor must furnish to the Official Receiver

a statement of his affairs, and after he heis

- furnished this statement he must attend for

public examination before the Registrar, on

which occasion he must answer questions on

oath. Within fourteen days after the receiving

order a general meeting of the creditors is held,

and this meeting decides whether the debtor

shall be adjudged bankrupt, or whether a com-

position or an agreement shall be accepted

from him. If he is adjudged bankrupt, the

creditors then appoint a trustee to wind up the

bankrupt's estate. On the appointment of the

trustee the property of the bankrupt pa.sses to

him, and it is his duty to realise the property

and to divide the proceeds among the creditors.

Discharge. - At any time after he has been

declared a bankrupt, but not until his public

examination has been concluded, the bankrupt

may apply for liis discharge. The Coiu-t will, as

a rule, grant the discharge provided that a good

dividend has been paid to the creditors, that

the bankrupt shows that his accounts have been

properly kept, that he has not been recklessly

extravagant or indulged in reish or hazardous

speculation, or been guilty of misdemeanour in

his business.

Until he does get his discharge the bankrupt

labours under many disabilities ; one of the

chief of these is that should he obtain credit

without disclosing the fact that he is an un-

discharged bankrupt, he is guilty of a criminal

offence, and is liable to imprisonment.

Married Women and Bankruptcy. - A married

woman carrying on a trade separately from her

husband can be made a bankrupt.

INSURANCE

Insurance is a matter little understood and

little entered into by women, who, however, are

beginning to look into it more closely now that

the passing of the " Workmen's Compensation

Act " has made the insurance of servants by

their employers a matter of almost vital neces

sity in every house.

Insurance may be defined as " a conu-act by

which a person (called the insurer or assurer),

in consideration of a lump sum of money, oi' of

a periodical paj-mont called the premium, under-

takes to pay to another (called the insured

or assured) a larger sum on the happening of

a particular event. The deed in which the

contract of insurance is contained is called the

policy of insurance, the term policy being derived

from a Latin word signifying promise.

Nearly every risk to which wo are liable may

be insured against, including epidemic illness,

accident, and sickness. Football and cricket

clubs frequently insure against loss in the

receipts from the sea.son's play. Organisers of

bazaars and other entertainments do the like.

The more common forms of insurance are Life

Assurance, Fire and Marine, to which may be

added Accident and Biu-glary Insurance.

Life Assurance. - The word "assurance" is

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

really the correct term when a life policy is taken

out, insurance being applied to all other policies ;

but colloquial use has made now the word

insurance apply to both Ufa and other policies,

hence the term " insurance " is pretty generally

used for both. In life assurance, in return

for the payment of a stipulated premium pay-

able at regular intervals, the insurance company

undertakes to pay a lump sum to the person or

persons for whose benefit the contract is made,

upon the death of the person insured. Life

insurances may also be taken out for a certain

number of years at a much less premium than

that charged for the whole life. If the person

insiu-ed dies witliin this period the whole amount

of the insurance is payable upon his (or her)

death to the next of kin.

Careful attention to all the conditions laid

down in an insurance policy is necessary. A

very slight misunderstanding on the part of the

person who is taking out the insurance may,

in the event of loss, result in the company deny-

ing their liability on the grounds that the con-

ditions have not been fully complied with.

Assurance or Insurance with Profits. - In an

insurance which carries profits the company

allows the policy-holder a share in the sur-

plus or profits of the company. For this privi-

lege a higher rate of premium is charged. At

the end of every five or seven years a valua-

tion is made of the properties or assets of the

company and its liabilities. The siu-plus or

profits of an insurance company represent the

figure at which its assets exceed its expenses

and Habihties. This su plus is ascertained and

distributed at certain fixed intervals, usually

every five or seven years. The profits so gained

are called bonuses, and are distributed amongst

the policy-holders in the form of bonus additions

to their accounts. The policy-holder may either

draw the bonus in cash, have it added to the

amount for which he (or she) is insured, or use it

as a fund for reducing the payment of futiu-e

premiums. One or two insurance companies

have adopted the practice of a yearly valuation

and bonus distribution.

Insurance Faculties for People of Limited Means.

- Formerly it was a somewhat heavy under-

taking for men and women of limited means to

insure their lives. Either quarterly or annual

payments of the premium were the rule, and

with some people, more especially those of

fluctuating incomes, payments of a lump sum

at these intervals was well-nigh impossible.

Also, if tho premiums were not promptly paid,

the policies would expire, and tho sum of money

already paid as premium would consequently

be forfeited. Much greater facilities are now

bemg placed in the way of people of limited

means and men and women workers.

Premiums can be paid in small sums and at

short intervals. Many of the companies now

accept small monthly payments with a time

371

allowance of a fortnight in which to make each

payment, and a system has been adopted for

using what is termed the " surrender value " of

the pohcy held - generally about one-third to

one-half of the premiums already paid as a

fund for the continuance of payments which

for a time the holder finds it impossible to meet,

so that the pohcy may not lapse.

Should the investor desire to discontinue the

insurance, many of the companies allow either

the surrender value in cash or a fully paid up

policy for a reduced amount, free from payment

of any further premiums.

A number of the companies have also aban-

doned the practice of charging a higher rate

for the insurance of women than that charged

for insuring men, and the medical examination

which was formerly always necessary before the

making of an insurance contract has now to a

large extent been done away with.

Endowment Insurance. - Endowment insur-

ance secures the payment of a lump sum to the

person insured when he (or she) attains a certain

age stipulated in the pohcy. By regular pay-

ment of the premium, therefore, a young woman

of from twenty to thirty could at the age of say

forty-five be entitled to the payment of any

sum from £100 upwards, according to the

amount for which she is insured. Should she

die before that age the whole of the insurance

money woul 1 be paj'able to her heirs. In con-

nection with this scheme of insurance many

offices make a feature of annuities both " Im-

mediate " and " Deferred."

Immediate Annuities are secured by the pay-

ment of a lump sum down to the Insurance

Company. Deferred Annuities, payable after

the person insured has reached a certain age,

can be secured either by payment of a single

premium, or by quarterly, half-yearly, or yearly

premiums in accordance with the varj-ing

conditions enforced by different insurance com-

panies. The "annuities" and "endowment"

forms of insurance make ideal investments for

the woman worker dependent upon her own

resources, for by payment of a small sum

annually, under either of the schemes, she can

secure herself against penury in her old age,

when she will no longer be able to work as in

her youth.

Endowments for Children. - Tlie object of the

endowment of children is to afford parents the

means of having their children educated and

started in life. They by this means secure to

every child which may be born to them a

given sum, to bo paid in each case on tho cliild

attaining any specified age, say from 14 to 21

years. Tlie advantages offered to yoimg

married persons by thus securing a fixed sum

for every one of their children, however groat

tho number, must bo ob\nous to every person

who reflects on the care and anxiety atten-

dant on providing for a numerous family. The

372

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

necessary funds are thus furnished wherewith to

meet the school expenses of sons and daughters,

the support of sons at college, the dowry of

daughters, and the entry of sons or daughters

into the professions or commercial life.

Government Annuities and Insurance. - Imme-

diate or dofi^rrod annuities, if not less than

£1, and not exceeding £100, receivable half-

yearly with Government security for the pay-

ment of the money at the proper time, may be

purchased through the medium of the Post

Office Sa\'ings Bank on the lives of persons of

either sex, and of the age of five years and

upwards. On the death of an annuitant a

single payment equal to one-fourth part of tlie

annuity is made to the representative, if claimed

within two years.

Persons between 14 and 65 years of age may

insure their lives through the medium of the

Post Office Savings Bank for sums of not less

than £5 and not more than £100, with Govern-

ment security for the payment of the money.

The lives of children below 14 years, but not

under the age of 8 years, may be insured for

£5 but no more.

Insurable Interest. - In order that a contract

of insurance may be valid the insured must have

what is called an insurable interest in the thing

insured ; that is to say, he must have a pecuniary

interest in, or must be liable or accountable for,

any loss arising in regard to it.

Thus a man may not only insure his own life,

but he may also insiure the life of another,

providing he has an insurable interest in that

other's life. A wife has an insurable interest

in her husband's life, being dependent on liim

for support ; so, too, are children dependent upon

thoir father. But a husband has no such interest

in the life of his wife, unless he has an income

or other monetary advantage depending upon

her life. A creditor has an insurable interest

in the life of his debtor for the amount of the

debt, and on the creditor's death ho can recover

the amount of the debt, even although it has

been paid off. Employers have also an in-

surable interest in their workmen or servants,

being liable to them in cases where they have

sustained injury, or been killed in the course

of their employment.

Control Exercised over Life Offices. - Every

Life Assurance Company established since 1870

in the United Kingdom must deposit £20,000

in the High Court, and no certificate of incor-

poration can be issued until the deposit has

been made. As soon as the insurance fund

accumulated out of premiums amounts to

£40,000 the deposit is returned. If the com-

pany carries on other business besides that of

life insurance the receipts in respect of the life

insurance must be kept in a separate account

and be placed in a separate fund called the Life

Insurance Fund of the company. This fund

must exist solely for the security of holders of

life policies, as though the company carried on

no other business than that of life insurance.

Every Life Office doing business in this country

must render annual accounts and reports to the

Board of Trade. Copies of these must be fur-

nished to poUcy.'holders when required. It

must be remembered, however, that the Board

of Trade has no control over the conduct of a

Life Office when once it has been started. There

is, therefore, no guarantee that the business of

any company is being properly carried on.

Stamps. - Policies of life insurance must be

stamped as follows : -

". d.

Where the sura insured does not exceed £10 .

Where the sum insured exceeds £10 but does

not exceed £25

Where the sum insured exceeds £25 but does

not exceed £500, for every £50 or part of £50

Exceeds £500 but does not exceed £1000, for

every £100 or part of £100 ....

Exceeds £1000, for every £1000 or part of

£1000

10 C

On policies of insurance against accident or

sickness the stamp is one penny. Policies of

insurance against employers' liability are charge-

able as agreements - this is, if under hand, 6d.,

if under seal, 10s.

How to Assure or Insure. - A person who

wishes to assure his (or her) life must first apply

to a Life Office, and the Assurance Company will

send a proposal form to be filled up by the person

who has to be assured.

In this proposal form it is required to give

accurate answers to the questions therein set

out, concerning his (or her) health, habits of

Ufe, and family history; sometimes a medii;al

examination will have to be undergone, but

under certain conditions many of the principal

insurance companies have done away with the

necessity for this.

The greatest care should be taken in faith-

fully answering those questions in the " pro-

posal " or " declaration," for this proposal is

the basis of the contract, and it is on the faith

of the answers contained in it that the policy

is granted ; and excepting in the case of a

" non-forfoitable " policy, if the answers are

untrue, however innocently they may be made,

the policy falls to the ground and the insurance

money cannot be recovered, though the premiums

paid may be returned unless the untruthful

answers have been wilfully or fraudulently made.

In addition to the declaration the Life Office

usually requires a reference to one or two in-

timate friends of the person about to be insured.

Their replies are treated as confidential. When

all these requirements have been satisfactorily

met, the Life Office grants the policy on payment

of the first premium.

Accident Insurance. - Accident insurance is a

contract by which the Insurance Company under-

takes tu prov-ide against loss if the insured sus-

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

tains accidental injury or disablement, either

partial or temporary, and to pay the sum in-

sured for to the personal representative of the

person insured shoiild his death result from an

accident.

The rate of premium for accident insurance is

determined chiefly by the occupation. Accord-

ing to the nature of the occupation the risks are

divided into three classes - ordinary, medium,

and hazardous.

To insure for £100 in case of death, with full

benefits for disablement, the rates per annum

in some of the principal offices are : -

s. d.

Ordinary risks ... ... 8 6

Medium risks 12 0

Hazardous rislis 14 0

These rates only apply to accidents happening

in Europe ; but some offices issue " world-

wide " pohcies which also indemnify for accidents

taking place abroad at considerably higher

rates.

Many newspapers and other periodicals con-

tain free accident insurance coupons for sums

varying from £100 and upwards. The condi-

tions printed upon the coupon must be fulfilled

in order for the insurance to be effective. Such

newspaper insurances most often indemnify

against accidents when travelling by rail or boat.

Fire Insurance. - Fire insurance indemnifies

the policy-holder for any loss or damage to his

property sustained by fire.

The maximum amount of compensation

which can be claimed is stated in the policy, but

indemnity is only given for the actual damage

suetained. There is, therefore, no advantage in

over -insuring property or in insuring it for its

full value in each of several different offices.

The latter procedure would only serve to benefit

the insurance companies, for instead of one

company being obliged to pay the full value of

the property, the liability would be shared

between the several offices with which it has

been insured.

The rate of premium varies according to the

property insured. On ordinary dwelling-houses

the rate is usually two shillings per cent, and

seldom less than Is. 6d. per cent. In the case

of factories, shops, &c., that entail more than

ordinary risks, and in the case of theatres, dis-

tilleries, chemical works, and other such places

which are exposed to peculiar danger, rates are

fixed by special arrangement, the premium in

extreme ca^^es being £2 or even £3 per cent.

Fire insurances are usually effected for a

year, the policy being renewable on the pay-

ment of another premium. Fifteen days, called

" days of grace," are allowed at the end of the

year in which to renew the policy. Should a

fire occur during these fifteen days the company

is still liable, provided that it is intended by

both parties to renew the policy.

373

Insurance of Domestic Servants. - Under the

Workmen's Compensation Act, 1906, every em-

ployer is liable to compensate his employees

for injuries arising out of and in the course of

their employment, although such injuries may

be the direct results of carelessness on the part

of the injured person, or even disobedience to

orders.

As this act applies to all domestic servants,

male or female, the master and mistress of every

household should realise the responsibility which

the keeping of servants entails upon them in

this connection, for compensation up to £1

a week is payable dxiring the servant's total

or partial incapacity for work, and this may

well involve the payment of an armuity for

Ufe, whilst if the injxzry results in death, a lump

sum of money of as much as from £150 to £300

is payable (see law of Master and Servant, p. 377-

78). It 13 essential for the master of a house to

protect himself against liabihty, which might

arise in regard to accident to his servants, by in-

surance. jMost of the insurance companies make

a special feature of domestic servant insurance.

The usual premium payable for the insiu-ance

of an indoor servant amounts to from 2s. 6d. to

5s. per annum. Great care should be taken on

examining the insurance policy that it indem-

nifies against all risks. It should in all cases

declare that the insurance comjiany indemnifies

the employe!- against all liabilities under -

Tlie Workmen's Compensation Act, 1906.

The Employer's Liability Act, 1S80.

Fatal Accidents Act, 1846.

And at Common Law.

Tlie following are the rates of premium charge-

able for the insurance of domestic servants by

the EiOyal Exchange Assurance Company : -

BENEFITS OF POLICIES

.Scheme l grants complete indemnity against legal

liability.

Premmms

Indoor domestic servants (male or female) . . .26

Gardeners 50

Grooms, coachmen, and stable hands (not hunting) . 7 6

Chauffeurs and motor-car attendants . . . . 20 0

Scheme 2B (the ideal policy) grants full wages during

first four weeks' incai)acity, and half wages thereafter in

accordance with the Workmen's Compensation Act, and

medical expenses not exceeding £5 for each accident.

Pretniums

g. d.

Indoor domestic servants (male or female) . . .50

Gardeners 70

Grooms, coachmen, and stable hands (not hunting) . 10 0

Cliauffeurs and motor-car attendants . . . . 30 0

The liability to pay compensation to

Casual or Occasional Servants

may be covered by the addition of 25 per cent, of the

premium chargeable for permanent indoor and outdoor

servants under Scheme 1. Minimum extra premium 2s. 6d.

374

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Burglary Insurance. - Burglary insurance is a

recent development in tho business of insurance.

Generally speaking, the law in regard to fire

insurance applies to burglary insurance. The

rate charged in regard to loss by burglary or

housebreaking is usually Is. 6d. in every £100's

worth of goods insured. If the insured wishes

to insiu-o against theft, either by strangers or by

workmen or servants employed in liis house,

the rate is 2s. per cent. Against burglary,

housebreaking, theft, and fire the rate is in

some offices 3s. 6d. per cent. Thus if a house-

holder effected such a combined poUcy on goods

worth £2000, the annual premium would be

3s. 6d. for every flOO's worth of goods insured;

that is, £3, 10s. altogether. Every such policy

must bear a penny stamp.

LEGAL NOTES

Husband and Wife. - Before entering upon the

matrimonial state every woman should have a

clear appreciation of what her legal status as a

married woman will be, and to what extent her

identity becomes merged in that of her husband.

Married Woman's Property. - Formerly theposi-

tion of a married woman left much to be desired.

Whatever personal property she possessed as a

single woman would become her husband's upon

marriage. If she had property in land it passed

under his control, and he was entitled to draw

all the rents and income derived from it. Also

any money lois wife earned in business, in the

professions, or in any kind of employment

became liis. A wife had no power to make

contracts. On the other hand, the husband was

liable for any debts contracted by his wife

before marriage.

The Married Woman's Property Act of 1882

served to place matters upon a much more

equitable basis. Now a married woman can re-

tain and control her own property, drawing all

the income from it. She can keep any money

she may earn in business or in any other em-

ployment. She can now take out an insurance

policy on her own life or that of her husband ;

in fact, she is to all intents and purposes in the

same position as a single woman in regard to tho

power of managing her own property.

Domicile. - The legality of a marriage usually

depends on whether it was celebrated in accord-

ance with the law of the husband's domicile,

so that girls marrying foreigners, even in Eng-

land, should bo careful to ascertain beforehand

from the consul of the country to which the

particular foreigner belongs whether all the

requirements of the foreign law have been ful-

filled ; as otherwise thoy may find that the

husband may repudiate the marriage when he

returns home. Many unfortunate English girls

are trapped and ruined in this way.

Maintenance. - As long as the marriage rela-

tionship is undetermined, a husband is bound

to maintain his wife. A wife is also bound to

maintain her husband if necessary, but only if

slio has separate property wliich will enable her

to do so.

Husband's Liability for Wife's Debts.- (1) Be-

fore Marriage. - Tho JIarried Woman's Property

Acts, 1882, provides that the husband is only

liable for his wife's debts contracted before mar-

riage to the extent of the assets ho received

with her.

(2) After Marriage. - It is a principle of law

that a wife can only pledge her husband's credit

in so far as she is acting as his agent for tho

pm-pose. The liability of the husband for the

debts of his wife in this respect vary according

to whether they are cohabiting or not. If

husband and wife are living together and the

wife is in the habit of ordering goods for which

her husband pays he will be considered as hold-

ing her out as his agent to pledge his credit,

and will be bound to pay debts incurred by her.

If, however, he warns the tradesmen not to

supply her with goods, or if he gives her a

sufficient allowance with which to pay her bills,

he will not be Hable. If husband and wife are

living apart owing to the misconduct of the

former, the wife can pledge the husband's credit

for the supply of necessaries to herself.

Gifts and Loans between Husband and Wife. -

A wife may give to and receive from her hus-

band gifts of every description. Evidence should

always be forthcoming, however, that a gift

has been made more, especially if it does not

leave the possession of the donor. With regard

to loans made by a wife to her husband the

Married Woman's Property Act, 1882, provides

that " any money or other estate of the wife

lent or entrusted by her to her husband for the

purpose of any trade or business carried on by

him or otherwise, shall be treated as assets of

her husband's estate in case of bankruptcy,

under reservation of the wife's claim to p

dividend as a creditor for the amount of value

of such money or other estate after out 7iot

before all claims of the other creditors of the

husband have been satisfied." Thus, if a woman

has lent money to her husband and he has

subsequently been declared bankrupt, she can-

not receive any payment until all the other

creditors have been paid.

Marriage Settlement. - In spite of tho com-

parative freedom now enjoyed by a wife in the

management of her affairs, she is apt to be at

times unduly influenced by her husband, and

many a woman has been known to have lost

the whole of her property in an effort to pay

her husband's creditors ; consequently, in order

that she may continue to enjoy the benefit of

income settled upon her at marriage unre-

strained by any interference on the part of

her husband, it is usual to insert a clause in

the settlement called " restraint upon anticipa-

tion." Not only does this provision protect

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

375

the wife from the influence of her husband, but

it is also a safeguard against extravagance on

her own part, for she is deprived of the power

of selling, mortgaging, or charging her property

in any way.

Legal Position of Married Women in Scotland.

- Formerly the married woman in Scotland

laboured under great legal disabilities. The

whole of her personal property was subject to

the Jus Mariti of the husband ; that is to say,

as head of the wife he was deemed to have sole

right over her property. He could sell or even

make gifts of it at his pleasiu-e, and his creditors

could seize it for payment of his debts. Only by

a special pre-nuptial contract could his rights in

this direction be modified. The husband could

also draw all the rents and income derived from

his wife's landed property. He was also, prior

to the Married Woman's Property Act of 1877,

entitled to any earnings his wife might derive in

business, or by her proficiency in literature, the

arts or any other employment. The Married

Woman's Property Act (Scotland) of 1877 de-

creed that the wife could retain her earnings,

and by a later Act in 1881 her condition was

still further ameliorated. This second Married

Woman's Property Act decreed that all property

coming to a woman after the passing of the Act

was her own, that all incomes, &c., from her

estate might be paid to her, that property she

held in her own right could not be seized by her

husband's creditors in payment of his debts.

But there is this important difference in regard

to the legal status of a married woman in

Scotland as compared with that of a married

woman in England - ^whereas the English-

woman has full power to manage her estates

and make contracts on her own behalf, her

sister in Scotland has no such powers. Her

luisband retains the right of managing her

property, the wife having no power to act in

this direction without his consent. She cannot

enter into any contract or dispose of her property

in any way, except by will, without liis ap-

proval ; she cannot sue at law or be sued ; but,

on the other hand, she cannot be imprisoned for

debt. Only where a special settlement in regard

to the administration of her property has been

made before marriage can the husband's rights

in this direction be restricted.

Women married before 1881 canrot partici-

pate in the benefits of the Act unless the husband

signs a deed to the effect that he is willing the

property should bo hold by his wife in accord-

ance with the new law.

The Importance of Making a Will.- All

persons, men or women, who possess property

of any kind should realise the importance of

making their wills in order to insure that their

property is distributed according to their wishes

after death.

For a will to be valid, according to English

law, it must be in writii g anu signed at the foot

or end by the testator, or, if the latter is too ill

to write, the signature can be made by some

other person under his direction, the testator

affixing liis mark. The will must be signed in

the presence of two or more witnesses, who, in

their turn, must attest and subscribe the docu-

ment in the presence of the testator.

A will need not assimie any particular form.

Any writing duly signed and attested by two

witnesses is sufficient.

A will cannot be made by any person vmder the

age of twenty-one. A married woman may now

make a will in the same form sis that of a man,

but she would have to make a new will in order

to bequeath property acquired by her after the

termination of her married life either by the

death of her husband or her divorce from him.

A will is always revoked by the marriage of

the testator, so that both men and women with

property should make new wills after marriage.

Executors. - It is always adxasable for the

testator to appoint an executor or executors

to wind up her estate and distribute her property

according to her will.

Administrators. - Where the deceased person

has left no will, there can be no executors and

no probate. The property, if " realty," will go

to his heir-at-law, and, if " personalty," to his

next-of-kin. But as it is desirable that some

one should wind up the estate and distribute it

among those entitled to it, the Ck)iu't will appoint

a person called an Administrator, and grant

him " Letters of Administration."

Codicils. - With the exception of the cases

above mentioned, a will can only be revoked by

another will or codicil inconsistent with the

former one. WTiere a codicil is made wliich,

though not consistent with the first will, does

not actually revoke it, the first will is vaUd in

so far as it is consistent with the later will or

codicil, but the later will is alone valid as to

the parts where they are not consistent.

Wills in Scotland. - No set form of wording is

necessary for the drawing up of a will in Scotland.

It should be signed by the testator and attested

by two witnesses.

Should the will, however, be what is termed a

" holograph " will ; that is to say, should it be

written in the testator's own handwriting and

signed with his signature, it will be valid without

the attestation of witnesses. A holograph will

unsigned would not, of coiu'se, be valid.

Intestacy of Husband. - Should a man die in-

testate, leaving a wife and childien, one-third

of his personal estate will go to his wife and the

other two-thirds will be divided between his

children. Should he leave no childien the \nie

takes it all if the value is tinder £500 ; if over

that value she takes £500 with interest at 4 per

cent., and half the residue, the other half going

to the next of kin.

A wife is also entitled on her husband's death

to a dower for life in one-third of liis lands.

376

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Intestacy of Wile. - \\'hen a wife dies intestate

the whole of her personed property reverts to

lier liuaband. He is also entitled to a life estate

called " curt<>sy " in her freehold lands.

Parent and Child. - The parents of a child are

said to be its natural guardians ; that is to say,

they have the right to the control of it until such

time as the child attains the age of twenty-one, or

marries, if the ceremony takes place before that

age is reached. The primary right as guardian

rests with the father, but he may be deprived

of the care of them if, in the opinion of the Court,

it is deemed to be in the interests of the children

that they are taken out of his custody. After

the death of the father the mother is the natural

guardian of their cliildren. Should the father,

however, in his will appoint a testamentary

guardian for Ins cliildren, this delegated guardian-

ship will over-ride the rights of the mother.

Maintenance. - The duty of a father to main-

tain his children until they can support them-

selves is a natural one, and unless the neglect to

do so would bring the case witliin the criminal

law, there is no legal obligation upon him. A

number of statutes, however, deal with the

subject. First of these was the Poor Law Act

of '43 EUzabeth, c. 2, which cast upon parents

" of sufficient abiUty " the duty of maintaining

their cliildren under a penalty, and this was

extended to a later Act to the case of a man's

stop-children. The Act of '57 & '58 Vict., c. 41,

imposes on parents the duty of providing ade-

quate food, clothing, medical aid, and lodging

for children in their custody until the boys at-

tain fourteen years and the girls sixteen. The

liabiUty of the parents under the first statute

ceeises when the children attain the age of six-

teen, unless they are from infirmity incapable

of supporting themselves ; but if the parents

retain the children in their custody they are

Uable for their maintenance until they come

of age.

Births and Deaths, Registration of - Births. - In

the case of ovory child born alive it is the duty of

the father and mother of the child, and, in default

of the father and mother, of the occupier of the

house in which, to his knowledge, the child is

born, and of each person present at the birth,

and of the person having charge of the child,

to give the local registrar of births information

of the birth within forty-two days and to sign

the register. If the birth is not registered

within three months many formalities must be

gone through, and fees are imposed, and after

twelve months a birth can only bo registered

by the Registrar Genfral's express authority.

Registration of Deaths. - When a person dies

in a house it is the duty of the nearest relatives

of the deceased present at the death, or in

attendance during the la.st illness, to notify the

registrar within five days of the death ; and,

in default of such relatives, the obligation lies

upon every other relative dwelUng in the same

district as the deceased. If there are no such

relatives the information must be given by the

occupier and inmates of the house in which the

death took place, and by the person causing

the body of the deceased to be buried.

Where the deceased has been attended during

his (or her) last illness by a registered medical

practitioner, the latter must sign and deliver

to one of the persons required to give informa-

tion concerning death a certificate stating to

the best of liis knowledge and belief the cause

of death. This certificate must be dehvered to

the registrar when information concerning the

death is given.

Vaccination. - Parents are required under a

penalty of twenty shiUings to have their chil-

dren vaccinated before they are six months

old, either by the pubUc vaccinator or by some

medical practitioner. If, however, the parent

makes a statutory declaration within four months

of the child's birth that he conscientiously

behoves the vaccination would bo prejudicial

to the health of the child, he will be exempt from

the penalty, but he must dehver the declaration

to tlie vaccination officer witliin seven days of

obtaining it.

Master and Servant. - There are many points

in the law of master and servant as applied

to the domestic servants of a household which

the average woman finds somewhat difficult to

understand. The most important things to re-

member in this connection will be dealt with

here briefly and expUcitly in a way which it is

hoped will tend to enlighten the housewife as to

the exact scope of her responsibilities towards

her servants.

Wife as Husband's Agent. - As all dealings with

servants are mainly conducted by the wife as

superintendent of the domestic side of the

home, the mistress is more often than not re-

garded as having supreme control over them.

She it is who engages them, allots their various

duties, provides for their outings and holidays,

and dismisses them when their work is un-

satisfactory. This is a typical instance of the

wife acting as her husband's agent, for whore

husband and wife live together it is the husband

who is the legal head of the servants of a house-

hold. It is the husband who is liable for the

payment of their wages, and the Courts would

compel him and not the wife to pay them. He

it is who is responsible for the contract of

engagement, and upon him rests the onus of

responsibility for injuries caused to other people

by his servants' wrongful or negligent acts, and

it is he who is liable to compensate his ser-

vant for any injuries they may have received in

the course of their employment. The word

" master " is therefore in no way the meaning-

less term it is supposed to be in the average

home when applied to the control of servants,

and although the mistress, as housewife, retains

the active management of these members of the

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

377

household, yet she can only be said to be acting

upon her husband's behalf, for he is in every

way responsible to and for them.

Notice. - Upon the engagement of a servant,

what is laiown as a " contract of service " is

entered upon between master and servant ; that

is to say, the master engages the servant to

fulfil certain duties wliich the latter undertakes

to perform for remuneration to be agreed upon

between them.

C\istom ordains that the contract of service

may be terminated by either servant or master

giving a calendar month's notice. In Scotland

forty days' notice must be given. If the master

chooses to discharge the servant without notice,

he must, unless the dismissal is justifiable, pay

to the servant a calendar month's wages in

addition to the wages up to the day of dismissal.

The wages payable in such a case would be the

actual money wages, and no allowance need be

made for board and lodging. Shovild a servant

depart without giving the master notice, any

wages earned by him (or her) since they were

last paid axe forfeited. The master may take

an action against him (or her) for breach of

contract.

Dismissal without Notice. - In several cases a

servant may be dismissed without either notice

or wages in lieu of notice. They are : -

(1) Wilful disobedience of a specific order.

The disobedience must be wilful and the order

specific. A mere casual neglect to obey a

general order would not as a rule justify instant

dismissal.

(2) Incompetepce. - A servant must be able

to perform the duties lor which he or she was

engaged, and which he or she undertook to

perform upon engagement.

(3) Habitual Neglect of Duty. - Consistent

neglect of duty may at times result in such

serious consequences as to justify instant dis-

missal.

(4) Gross misconduct, insolence, or dishonesty.

(5) Illness. - If the illness is one that is likely

to be of a very long period. A mere temporary

iUness constitutes no reason for the dismissal

of a servant.

Temporary Illness of Servant. - A master is

bound to pay the wages of his servants during

temporary illness. He is not liable for medical

aid unless he sends for the doctor or authorises

him to be sent for. In this case he must pay

the bill and is not entitled to deduct it from

the servant's wages.

Ejecting: a Servant. - If a servant refuses to go

upon being dismissed, it is always better to call

in a policeman to see that he (or she) leaves the

premises. A master is allowed to forcibly eject

a servant, but he must be careful in doing this,

as there is no knowing how far the law may be

exceeded, and a charge of assault consequently

preferred by the servant. It is always as

well therefore tc have " policeman upon the

scene to be witness that everything is in proper

order.

When a servant is suspected of theft, it is as

well also to call in a policeman to search his (or

her) boxes. A master should never undertake

this himself, as, if the theft could not be proved,

he would be Uable for damages.

Breakages. - A servant is not Uable for

breakages ; hence, unless an agreement has been

arrived at upon engagement that he or she is to

be held liable under the terms of the contract,

it is illegal for a master to deduct the value of

the breakages from the servant's wages.

Master's Liability for Servant's Negligence. -

Masters are responsible for the injuries caused

to other persons and their property by the

wrongful or negligent acts of servants, if such

servants are acting within the scope of their

ordinary duties and within the general scope of

their master's authority. Thus if a chaixffeur,

wliile driving his master's motor car in the

ordinary course of his employment, were by his

negligence to collide with another vehicle, the

master would be responsible for the damage

sustained by that other vehicle. If, on the other

hand, the accident occurred when the chauffeur

had taken out the motor car not in the coui'se

of his employment, but for his own pleasvu-e,

the master would not be liable.

Servants' Characters. - A mistress (acting as

agent for the master) is not legally bound to give

a character to a servant ; but if she gives one

it must be true. Care must be taken that all

the statements made are jiistified ; the mistress

should state all that she knows of good about the

servant as well as of bad. The statements made

in giving a character are said to be " pri\aleged,"

and if an action for Ubel is taken by the servant

the mistress is protected on this same score of

privilege', even where the words complained of

are vmtrue, provided that they were written

without malice and in the belief that they were

true. If, however, malice can be proved, the

plea of privilege will be of no avail, and the

servant will be entitled to damages.

It is very wrong of a mistress to give a good

character to a servant whom she knows to be

dishonest. Any emploj-er engaging a dishonest

servant by reason of such untrue character is

entitled to damages from the person by whom

the servant was recommended.

Master's Liability for Servant's Injuries. - A

master is liable for any injuries sustained by his

servants arising out of and in the com*se of their

employment, even althougli such injuries may

be the direct results of carelessness on the part

of the injured person, or even disobedience to

orders, though in the latter case the servant is

not entitled to compensation unless death or

permanent disablement should result from the

accident.

The term domestic servants includes generally

all those who are engaged in the menial work

378

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of a household either indoors or out-of-doors,

though no compensation could be claimed by a

relation of the master of the house engaged in

doing menial work. The amount of compensa-

tion payable as fixed by the Workmen's Com-

pensation Act, 1900, is as foUow-s : -

In the Case of Death. - Where death results

from the injury, if the servant loaves any persons

wholly dependent upon his earnings, the persons

so dependent are entitled to receive a sum

equal to the servant's earnings in his (or her)

employment during the last three years. If the

servant has not been so long in the employment,

they are entitled to a sum equal to one hundred

and fifty-six times his (or her) average weekly

earnings. In no case must this sum be less

than £150, nor must it exceed £300 ; so it will be

seen that should a servant meet death by acci-

dent, leaving relatives dependent upon liim,

£150 represents the minimum amount of the

master's Uability. If the servant leaves no

dependents his master will be Uable for tho

expeiises of medical attendance and burial to

the extent of £10.

Disablement by Accident. - Where total or

partial incapacity for work results from an

accidental injury sustained by the servant out

of and in the course of his (or her) employment,

he (or she) is entitled to receive a weekly pay-

ment during the incapacity not exceeding half

of his (or her) average weekly earnings during

the last twelve months if ho (or she) has been

so long employed, but if not, then for any

less period during which he (or she) has been

in the employment of the same employer,

but in no case must the weekly payment

exceed £1. Earnings in the case of an indoor

resident ser\'ant would include not only

wages but also an allowance for board and

lodging.

In the c"ise of accident to a servant who is

under twenty-one years of age, and whose average

weekly earnings are less than 20s., a weekly

payment equal to the whole of tho amount of

his weekly earnings will be payable, but tlus

weekly payment must not exceed 10s.

So it will be seen that in the event of disable-

ment the msistor will be liable for weekly pay-

ments up to £1, and in the event of the injury

being a permanent one tho compensation would

require to be paid during the whole of the

aervanVa life.

The position of the master of tho house,

therefore, is one of somewhat heavy responsi-

bility in this connection, but he can relieve him-

self of this to some measure by insurance. For

a nominal sum per annum the chief insurance

companies will take all risks. It is well worth

an annual outlay of from 58. to la. 6d. each year

to bo protected in this way, and it should bo tho

first act of a master, after engaging a servant,

to effect an insurance policy in his or her name.

Care should be taken, however, that tho policy

covers all risks (see Insurance of Domestic

Servants, p. 373).

Casual Labour. - Casual labour in the strict

sense of tho term does not come within tho

meaning of the act. Thus if, as often happens, a

man is employed on one or even two odd occa-

sions to perform some such menial duty as

chopping wood, he could not claim compensa-

tion were he injured while so employed. On

the other hand, the boy who is engaged to come

daily to clean knives and boots, the charwoman

who comes regularly once or t\v4ce a week, may

be said to come within the scope of the Act,

although their work may be said to be of a

casual nature. The insurance companies also

insure against risks entailed by labour of this

kind.

The Law of Landlord and Tenant. - Before

taking a house or any other property it is always

advisable to have some idea of the chief points

in the law of Landlord and Tenant, otherwise

the intending tenant might often find himself

faced with serious responsibilities wliich he had

not the remotest idea of incurring. Few women

have even a superficial knowledge of the legal

points involved in the letting and taking of

houses, the various kinds of leases and tenancies,

the tenant's obligations to liis landlord, and

vice vers A. Yet a little knowledge in this

direction has often been the means of a con-

siderable saving of both worry and expense.

Some of the most important rules covering the

relation of landlord and tenant will here be

dealt ^vith.

Landlord and Tenant. - A landlord is tho person

from whom lands or tenements aro taken, and

a tenant is one who holds property from the

landlord for a certain Umited period subject

to tho payment of rent.

Varieties of Tenancies. - ^There are various

kinds of tenancy: (1) A tenancy at will is a

tenancy wliich either the landlord or tho tenant

may terminate at any moment without notice.

(2) A tenancy at sufferance arises wh.:re a

tenant continues in possession after the expira-

tion of his tenancy. He cannot bo regarded as

a trespasser, but he is liable to be turned out

by the landlord at any moment. If he retains

possession after receiving from the landlord a

proper notice in writing to quit, he is liable to

be sued for double the yearly value of the

property for the time he remains in possession ;

if he holds over after himself giving notice of

his intention to quit, he may be sued for

double rent.

(3) A Tenancy from Year to Year. - ^The law

does not look with favour on tenancies at will,

therefore when a tenant at will has paid rent

or done anything else which may bo fairly taken

to show an intention to create a yearly tenancy,

the tenancy becomes automatically a tenancy

from year to year. Tenants ought, therefore,

before entering into their tenancies, if thej'

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

379

wish the tenancy to be for less than a year, to

make the agreement quite clear with the land-

lord ; for though no term is specified tenancy

will in the first instance be a tenancy at will ;

the mere payment of rent will convert it into

a yearly tenancy, but this does not apply to

weekly tenants.

Leases. - The contract by which property is

let for a term of years is called a lease.

The leases in connection with the letting of

dweUing -houses are usually either for three,

seven, fourteen, or twenty-one years. People

often prefer to have an agreement instead of a

more formal lease in the case of tenancies of

less than tliree years ; but except for very short

terms, it is generally better to have a lease

stating clearly all the conditions tmder which

the tenancy is held. A lease for a term of three

years or less where the rent received amounts to

two-thirds of the full improved value, can be

made verbally if accompanied by the giving

and taking of the premises, but such a plan

is seldom adopted and by no means to be

recommended.

In Scotland, where a lease is for more than

one year, it must be in writing, specifying a

definite term, and a definite sum as rental. A

verbal lease can be made, however, for a year

or less. Letters between landlord and tenant

agreeing to a lease are also valid in certain

circumstances. All leases must be duly stamped.

Covenants. - All leases contain a number of

covenants or conditions which the landlord and

tenant respectively bind themselves to observe.

The very employment in a lease of certain

technical expressions implies the creation of

certain covenants. Thus the use of the word

" demise " implies a covenant on the part of

the landlord that the tenant shall be entitled

to the quiet and undisturbed enjoyment of the

premises, unless there is any express covenant

in the lease with a contrary effect.

There are in most leases what are called

" usual covenants," being covenants on which

the landlord can insist when there is nothing to

the contrary in the agi-eement for the lease.

Tliey are four in number : -

(1) Tenant to pay rent.

(2) Tenant to pay rates and tases, except the

landlord's property tax and tithe rent charge.

(3) Tenant to allow the landlord to enter the

premises from time to time to see that they are

in a proper state of repair.

(4) Tenant to keep the premises in a proper

state of repair throughout the tenancy, and to

deliver them up in such a state at the end of

the term.

In addition to the usual covenants there are

a large number of special covenants to be found

in all leases, for the respective landlords and

tenants can always agree to whatever additional

covenants ihey please. These additional cove-

nants fall into two general classes : - (I) Personal

covenants ; (2) Covenants rurming with the land.

The latter kind are binding on all those to whom

the tenant assigns the property, whereas the

former are in general only operative between the

respective parties to the lease.

Rent. - The principal duty of every tenant is

to pay rent, whether there is a covenant to pay

it or not, for if there is no agreement between

the parties stipulating as to the exact sum

payable, the tenant is bound to pay a reason-

able Sinn for the use and occupation of the

premises, unless, of course, there is an agreement

that the tenant shall have the premises rent

free, as might well happen if he is in the employ-

ment of the landlord, and has the right to occupy

the premises as part of his remuneration.

The amount of rent payable in any particular

case is usually arranged for in the lease or

agreement which may also appoint times for

the payment of the rent. But in the cases where

there is no stipulation as to when payment is

to be made, the law says that it is due on the

last day of the year of the tenancy if the tenancy

be for a year or more, and on the last day of

the tenancy if it be for less than a year. As a

matter of general practice the rents of houses

are paid quarterly on the proper quarter days,

and sometimes monthly.

Though the rent becomes due on the morning

of the day on which it ought to be paid, it cannot

be legally considered in arrear until midnight

on that day.

Rates and Taxes. - Taxes paid by Landlord. -

All rates and taxes are as a rule paid by the

landlord in the case of furnished houses or flats.

In the case of unfurnished houses the Land-

lord's Property Tax is in the first instance usually

paid by the tenant ; but he is entitled to deduct

the amount so paid from the rent, so that it

eventually falls on the landlord ; similarly the

tithe rent charge must in all cases eventually be

paid by the landlord. Tliere are also certain

other rates and taxes which the landlord will

have to pay, unless there is a special agreement

by which the tenant binds himself to paj' them.

They include the sewers rate for permanent

improvement to the sewers, the land tax, and

the poor rates on property let for less than

three months. Wlienever the tenant is called

upon to pay any of these rates he must do so,

but unless he has agreed to pay them he may

deduct the amount so paid from the rent. The

landlord must pay rates and taxes when the

rateable value of the premises does not exceed

£10, or where they are let to weeklj* or monthly

tenants.

Taxes to be Paid by Tenant. - There are, how-

ever, certain taxes which, in the absence of any

agreement to the contrary between the landlord

and tenant, must be borne by the tenant. They

include the water rate, the county, borough,

highway and general district rates, poor rates

on property let for more than tlu-ee months

380

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

(unless the tenant is merely a lodger), and the

ordinary assessed taxes.

The owners of unoccupied houses are not

liable for payment of tlio poor rate, but if the

tenant comes into possession after the levying

of the rate he may be called upon to pay a pro-

portionate part of it, according to the length

of the period of his occupation.

Repairs. - As a general rule, the landlord cannot

bo called upon to execute repairs unless he has

agreed to execute them. As for the tenant,

where there is no express agreement as to repairs,

he is bound to use the premises in a tenant-like

manner. Tlius he must not do damage to the

premises, and he can ganerally be compelled to

do such repairs as are necessary to keep the

premises wind and water-tight ; but unless he

has agreed to do so, a yearly tenant cannot be

called upon to execute any substantial repairs,

though a tenant under a lease would in such a

case be compelled to executo substantial repairs.

In many cases it happens that the respective

landlords and tenants agree together that each

will be responsible for a certain portion of the

repairs. Thus it is by no means uncommon

for the landlord to agree to execute all repairs

to the outside of the premises, whilst the tenant

agrees to repair the inside. But the amount of

repairs to be done and the person to pay for them

is generally a matter of arrangement between

the parties at the time of the execution of the

lesise or agreement.

The landlord is bound in letting furnished

premises to see that they are in a fit state for

habitation (see p. 381), but in the case of un-

furnished premises he can only be made liable

under the Housing of Working Classes Act,

1885, in respect of premises let at a low rental

to persons of the working class and under the

Housing Town Planning Act, 1909, in regard to

dwellings let for three years at rent not ex-

ceeding £-10 in London, £26 in certain districts

with a population of 250,000 or upwards, and

£16 elsewhere. As regards all other kinds of

unfurnished premises, the landlord, apart

from any agreement to the contrary with his

tenant, is under no obligation to put the

premises in a state of repair, or even into an

inhabitable condition before tlie tenancy f:om-

mences ; and further, he cannot, apart from

the agreement, be called upon to rebuild the

premises if they are destroyed by fire during the

tenancy, though the tenant can be compelled to

pay the rent during the period in which the

premises remain uninhabitable. It is advisable,

therefore, for tenants about to take unfurnished

premises to see that the landlord agrees to put

them into a thorough state of repair before the

commencement of the tenancy, and to insist

upon a covenant being inserted in the lease or

agreement to the effect that the payment of

rent shall cease if the premises are rendered un-

inhabitable by fire.

In Scotland the laxidlord is boimd in letting

a house to put it in a habitable condition. If

he does not do this the tenant may tlirow up

liis lease. In addition the landlord is bound to

keep the premises wind and water-tight and the

drainage system in order during the tenancy.

The tenant in his turn must take good care of

the premises, returning them to the landlord in

the condition in wliich he founi.! them.

Fixtures. - There are two Idnds of fixtures -

landlord's fixtures and tenant's fixtures. The

tenant's fixtures are those in which a tenant is

entitled to remove and take away with him on

giving up the tenancy, unless, of course, tliey

did not originally belong to him ; whereas the

fixtures he must leave behind, whether he has

l)ut them up himself or not, are called landlord's

fixtures.

Garden Fixtures. - An ordinary tenant of a

house, no matter how he may have improved

the garden by the planting of plants, rose-trees,

slirubs, and other horticultural embellishments,

cannot reviove these without the consent of the

landlord upon the expiry of his tenancy, for by

law they have become the landlord's property

in consequence of the legal maxim " whatever

has been firmly affixed to the grovmd has become

part of the ground." This law, however, does

not apply to market gardeners or nui-serymen,

if they have complied with the terms of the

Agricultural Holdings Act and the Market

Gardeners' Compensation Act. They may re-

move what they have planted.

Domestic Fixtures. - In regard to fixtures

which tenants have affixed to property for

their own convenience, the practical effect of

the present nole is that the landlord may claim

all buildings and other permanent improvements

to his property ; the tenant may remove orna-

mental and pm"ely domestic fixtures belonging

to liim, such as tapestries and gas-brackets, &c.,

but he is only entitled to them if they can be

easily removed, without material injury to the

property. Practically the same rule in regard to

the removal of fixtures prevails in Scotland.

Distress. - If a tenant falls in arrear with his

rent the landlord may enter upon the premises

and seize and sell a sufficient quantity of the

tenant's goods to satisfy the debt. There are,

however, certain things which he is not entitled

to distrain, such as things in actual use at the

time, the wearing apparel, bedding and trade

implements of the tenant if under £5 in value,

and the goods of a lodger where the latter has

complied with the terms of the Lodger Goods

Protection Act.

No distress may legally be levied between

sunset and sunrise, or on any Sunday, Christmas

Day, Good Friday, or any day appointed for a

public thanksgiving.

Removal of Goods by Tenant. - If, after the rent

has become due, a tenant fraudulently or clan-

destinely removes any of his goods from the

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

381

premises the latter may follow and seize them

witliin a period of thirty days after, unless they

have been bond fide sold for value to a person

without knowledge of the fraud.

Lodger's Property. - The goods of a lodger are

protected from distress levied on Ms imme-

diate landlord if he observes the conditions of

the Distress Amendment Act, 1908. By this

Act, if the superior landlord of the lodger's im-

mediate landlord endeavours to distrain on the

lodger's property for the rent due from the

immediate landlord, the lodger must : -

(1) Serve on the superior landlord or his

bailiff a written declaration that the property is

his, and also stating what rent, if any, is due

from him to the superior landlord, and under-

taking to pay to the superior landlord any rent

so due or to become due until the arrears of rent

due to the superior landlord have been paid off.

(2) AixPex to tliis declaration a correct in-

ventory of the property.

In Scotland the landlord has what is termed

" hypothec " or real right in security for rent

over the furniture of his tenant. He may make

the hypothec effectual by sequestration of the

goods within three months of the date upon

wliich the rent fell due. Sequestration may be

followed by the sale of the goods carried out by

an officer appointed bj^ the sheriff. Goods are

only subject to hypothec for each successive

year's rent, and not for arrears. Where goods

so subject are removed bj' the tenant, the land-

lord may obtain a warrant from the sheriff to

bring them back. He is also entitled to prevent

the tenant frona ^em'^^ang his goods not only

when the rent falls due, but also during any

period of the tenancy, unless a tenant can give

good security that the rent will be paid. Coin

of the realm, bonds, bills and wearing apparel

are not subject to the hypothec of the landlord.

Furnished Houses and Lodgings. - Wliere a

tenant takes a furnished house or lodging there

is an imphed warranty in law on the part of the

landlord that the premises are reasonably fit

for human occupation. So if by reason of bad

drains or any other cause the house is rendered

unfit for habitation, the tenant is entitled to

terminate the tenancy. If, however, the land-

lord has agreed to keep the premises in a state

of repair, he is entitled to notice of want of

repair and an opportunity to put it right, before

the tenant is justified in leaving. This implied

warranty as to fitness for human occupation

only exists where the property is let furnished.

If the piopertj' is lot unfurnished, the tenant is

not entitled to terminate the tenancy on finding

the drains in a bad state, or the house unfit for

occupation.

Flats. - The landlord is bovmd to keep the

stairs in good condition.

Liability of the Landlord or the Tenant to

Third Parties. - The tenant is Uable for injiu-ies

to third parties caused by the dangerous condi-

tion of the premises. There is a statutory duty

imposed on the owner or occupier to fence in

or cover over all dangerous places or holes

abutting on the highway, e.g., to keep in good

repair the area railings and coal-cellar covers

on the pavement. When, therefore, a passer-

by is injured by reason of these things being in

dangerous condition, he has usually a right of

action against the tenant and not against the

landlord. The same is the case when the con-

dition of the premises themselves is the cause

of injury to other people or to their property.

The landlord and not the tenant will, however,

be Hable (1) where he (the landlord) has agreed

to keep the premises in repair, or (2) where he

has let the premises in a dilapidated condition.

Of course, if the injured party is a trespasser he

has no remedy whatever.

Sub-letting a House. - The lessee of a house

may sublet it unless he has bound himself by

the terms of the lease not to do so. It is

extremely common to find in leases a covenant

to the effect that the tenant will not underlet or

assign the house without the written consent of

the landlord. The main difference between an

underlease and an assignment is that the latter

is for the whole of the remainder of the term

of the original tenant's lease, whereas the former

would only be for part of the term.

\\Tiere tenants agree not to underlet or assign

without the consent of the landlord, it is advis-

able that they should insist on the following

adchtional words being added to the covenant : -

" But such consent is not to be unreasonably

withhold in the case of a respectable and re-

sponsible person." If then the consent is un-

reasonably refused the tenant may assign

without incurring the forfeiture of the lease.

Termination of a Tenancy. - ^Vhere a house has

been taken for a stated period the tenant does

not require to give notice to the landlord of his

intention to quit. But where the tenancy is a

yearly tenancy, or a monthly or quarterly one,

notice is required, for a yearly tenancy does not

mean a tenancy for a yeew, but a continuing

tenancy from year to year.

Notice of Removal. - Where the parties have

not come to any special agreement, the amount

of notice proper for a yeai'ly tenancy is half a

year, and for a quarterly, monthly, or weekly

tenancy it is a quarter, or a month, or a week

respectively.

When to give Notice of Removal. - Tlie law

provides that a yearly, quarterly, monthly, or

weekly tenancy can only bo properly dotorminod

at the end of the year, quarter, month, or week

of the tenancy ; so that the tenant must give

his notice the reqiiisite amount of months or

weeks before the end of the period of the

tenancy. Thus he cannot terminate a yearly

tenancy at any time by giving six montlis' notice.

A yearly tenancy commencing ou the 1st of

January can only be terminated on the 31st of

382

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

December, so that the half year's notice should

be given by the 1st of July. The tenant may

not, by giving the notice at the end of August,

terminate it at the end of the following Februarj'.

The half year's notice required to terminate a

yearly tenancy does not necessarily mean six

calendar montlis. The notice should be for at

least half a year - that is 183 daj's.

Other Ways of Terminating a Tenancy. - By

Surrender. - When both parties agree to put an

end to the tenancy before the completion of the

term, the tenant must make a surrender to the

landlord, which in all cases must be in writing

and generally by deed.

By Forfeiture. - Most leases give the landlord

the right to re-enter the premises and terminate

the lease on the breach by the tenant of any

one of the important covenants of the lease.

Where such a right of entry is reserved to the

landlord, he will be presumed by law to have

waived it if he accepts the payment of the rent

after he has gained knowledge of the breach of

the covenant.

Responsibility for Fire. - If the tenant of a

house has covenanted to repair, he must in every

case remedy or rebuild in the case of damage

to or loss of the premises by fire, unless he has

been careful to make a special condition that

liability for damage by fire shall not form part

of the covenant. It is always as well for the

householder to protect himself from loss or

damage by fire by a clause of the kind, or by

insuring liis property with a good insurance

company, or by seeing that a covenant for

insurance by the landlord is included in the

lease. (For conditions of Fire Insurance,

see p. 373.)

Chimney on Fire. - Should a chimney catch

fire in London the occupier of the hovise is liable

to a penalty of 203., even though the fire be

caused by some one else's carelessness, though he

can in the latter case recover from this person

the penalty he has paid if he can prove the

neglect. In towns outside London the penalty

is only lOs., but it is not recoverable if the

occupier can show the fire did not in any way

arise from carelessness, neglect, or omission on

his part or that of his sorvant.

Sanitary Regulations. - It is an offence to

build a house without proper drainage in any

urban district. Wliere any house is without a

drain sufficient for its effectual drainage the

local authorities must, by written notice, require

the owner or occupier of the house, within a

reasonable time, to make a covered drain

emptying into the local authority's sewers

or cess-pools under the direction of the

authority.

Every houije must be provided with one or

more water-closets as required, furnished with

a suitable water-supply, and all the necessary

arrangements to ensure its efficient working.

Where, however, there is not a sufficient sewerage

or wator-supptj' a " privy " or earth closet may

be substituted.

Every house must also have a sufficient

ash-pit, dust-bin, or other receptacle for ashes

and refuse. Failure to comply with those regu-

lations renders the occupier liable to a fine of

£5, and a further fine of 40s. for each day the

offence continvies, or the sanitary authority

may do the work themselves and recover from

the owner or occupier. Closets, privies, and

ash-pits must not be allowed to got into a con-

dition which is offensive or injurious to health.

The occupier of the house is in these circum-

stances liable to a fine of £5, or a further fine

of 40s. for every day they remain in this

condition.

Infectious Diseases. - Disinfection of Premises.

- Every Local Government Board may make

regulations enforcing the cleansing and disin-

fection of premises, bedding, &c., in the case of

a house which has been visited by an infectious

disease. It is an offence under the Infectious

Disease (Prevention) Act, 1890, to knowingly

cast infected refuse into any ash-bin or receptacle

for refuse. Outgoing tenants are fined for leav-

ing premises infected, unless they give notice

of infection to the landlord.

Tlie letting of a house where infectious disease

has prevailed within a period of six months prior

to the letting also involves a heavy penalty.

Removal of Refuse. - Local authorities have

power to undertake or contract for the removal

of house refuse from private premises ; and

where they have exercised this power it is an

offence for any one else to remove or obstruct

authorised persons from removing such refuse.

But there is a provision exempting occupiers ol

houses from liability in respect of such refuse as

is produced on their own premises and intended

to be removed for sale or for the occupier's

own use if it is meantime kept so as not to be

a nuisance. If the local authority, after having

undertaken or contracted for the removal of the

refuse, unreasonably neglects to have it removed

wnthin seven days of being requested in WTiting

to do so by the occupier of the premises, it

renders itself liable to penalties.

House Duty. - This is known by the names of

House Tax, House Duty, and Inhabited House

Duty. All inhabited dwellings of £20 and

upwards are chargeable. Liability to pay this

tax falls upon the occupier and not the owner of

a house. The rate of duty varies with the

annual value of the house, and for ordinary

dwelling-houses is as follows : -

On hoTises where the annual value of the

premises does not exceed £40 . . .3d. in the £.

Where it exceeds £40 but not £C0 . . . Cd. in the £.

Exceeding £00 9d. in the £.

A lower scale is charged under certain con-

ditions to lodging-house keepers and those

engaged in trade.

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

383

Time for Payment. - In England the year

calculated in the assessment of this tax is from

April 5 to the following April 5, and in Scotland

from May 24 to the following May 23 ; in all

cases the tax is required to be paid on January 1

of that year.

Land Tax. - Tlie tenant pays this in the first

instance, but she is entitled to deduct it from

the amount paid for rent, unless she has by the

terms of the lease or agreement agreed to bear

the charge herself. Persons whose incomes do

not exceed £160 a year are exempt from the

paynaent of land tax, wliilst those whose incomes

do not exceed £400 are exempt to the extent

of one-half.

House and Estate Agents' Commission. - House

agents are as a rule employed to negotiate the

sale or lease of a house or property. Thus where

a lease or a purchase has been effected through

their agency they are entitled to a commission

upon the proceeds of the same payable by the

seller or lessor of the property.

This commission only becomes payable when

the sale or lease has been effected in consequence

of the agents' introduction.

The following are the usual fees and charges

in London of House and Estate Agents and

Auctioneers for letting house property, factories,

shop property, &c. : -

When let on agreement for not more than

tliree years, 5 per cent, on the first year's rent ;

when for a longer term, 7^ per cent., and, in

addition, 5 per cent, up to £1000 and 2i per

cent, on the residue upon any premium or

consideration. Also R per cent, on the pur-

chase price of any plant, fixtures, fittings, &c.,

which may be purchased by the tenant. Where

the rent is weekly, one week's rent is charged.

Income Tax. - The Income Tax is payable by

all persons whose annual income exceeds £160.

At present the amount levied is Is. 2d. in the

£ upon unearned incomes and on earned incomes

of over £3000, and Is. in the £ on earned incomes

of between £2000 and £3000. On all earned

incomes up to £2000 the tax is 9d. in the £.

All whose incomes do not exceed £160 are en-

tirely exempted from payment, wliilst a rebate

is allowed of the amount of the tax on £160

when the income is less than £400 ; £150 when

less than £500 ; £120 when less than £600, and

£70 when less than £700. A special allowance

equal to the amount of the Income Tax upon £10

is allowed to Income Tax payers whose income

does not exceed £500 in respect of every child

under t>io age of sixteen. In addition to the

ordinary Income Tax a Super Tax of 6d. in the

£ is payable by persons whose total income ex-

ceeds £5000, for every £1 of income above £3000.

Rates. - ^Rates differ from taxes inasmuch as

they are contributions levied by some local

authority either for local government purposes

or for the purpose of providing for the poor.

Whilst taxes are levied by the Government and

are of general application, the term '• rate "

also applies to a charge made by a public com-

pany (i.e. a water company) for services rendered.

Under this designation can be classed the water

rate and the gas rates.

Wlio Pays tlie Rates. - The occupier of a house

and not the owner is generally the person who

is primarily liable for the payment of the rates,

though there are some rates which the owner

must pay. In the case of a landlord and tenant

the parties frequently agree between themselves

that the liability shall ultimately fall upon

the landlord.

Each locality has its own rates governed by

its own needs. Rates are assessed on the net

annual value of the property. The rateable

value of a property is arrived at by deducting

from the gross value the tithes, cost of ins\ir-

ance, repairs and other expenses incidental

to property which detract from its gross

value.

Gas and Water Rates. - Tlie gas and water

rates are usually a charge made by a public

company for services rendered. Gas is usually

paid for according to the quantity consumed as

measured by the meter. The private Acts of

most gas companies have provisions dealing with

the testing of gas meters and the recovery of

overcharges if the meters do not register cor-

rectly, but many of the Acts provide that allow-

ances for the incorrectness of meters can only

be made on the current quarter account. Water

rates, however, are generally assessed, and are

payable on the rateable value of the premises,

though it is not unusual for an extra charge

to be made when garden hoses are employed,

or where there is otherwise reason to believe

that an abnormal supply of water will be

used.

The Hire Purchase System. - To people of

limited means who cannot afford the disburse-

ment of a substantial lump sum, the facilities

for furnishing their homes on the hire purchase

system present many decided advantages.

Briefly a hire purchase agreement for the

purchase of furniture or other goods amounts

to tliis - the goods become the property of the

person who hires them when he has completed

the purchase by a specific number of payments

made periodically. Until all the payments have

been made the goods belong to the person who

lets them out. Should default be made in pay-

ment, the owner may retake possession of his

goods and all pre\aous instalments paid by the

hirer will be forfeited.

It is always 6is well, before entering into a

hire purchase agreement, to see that it is being

effected with a reputable firm. Many of the

chief hire purchase traders belong to a society

whose object is to see that the system is honour-

ably kept up, and that the mere fortuitous

failure to pay an instalment is not made the

means of depriving the hirer of the benefit of

384

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

his contract altogother. Firms belonging to

this society will usually subject this rule to

considerable modification in favour of a hirer

who has a comparatively respectable character

and position, and if there is reason to beUeve

that liis default is in the nature of a temporary

suspension of payment only. As a rule it pays

the hire furnisher better to conclude the sale

with the hirer even for an extended credit than

to take back goods in a second-hand condition

and find a pui-chasor for them, more especially

as a reputation for harshness would be fatal

to his success in business in any restricted

locality.

Stamps. - A hire purchase agreement requires

R. sixpenny stamp if its subject matter is of the

value of £5. If below that value no stamp is

necessary.

Excise Licences. - The chief excise licences

which concern the householder according to the

position he occupies and the extent of his

establishment are : -

The licence on male servants.

The licence on armorial bearings.

The licence on carriages and motors.

The licence on dogs.

Male Servant. - Every person who emploj^

a male servant must obtain a licence, pajang

for such hcence 15s. for each servant employed.

The licence is annual and expires on the 31st

day of December each year. The term " ser-

vant " in this connection apphes only to what

may be described as a personal servant, not to

a workman or labourer employed in any handi-

craft or trade. But if a farm labourer is em-

ployed daily to drive a pony cai'riage, then a

licence is necessary. It is also necessary in the

case of a tradesman who employs a man to

attend to a vehicle solely used for the purpose

of pleasure. A gardener employed at a weekly

wage and who works for his employer a number

of hours per day cannot be employed without a

licence even if he is at liberty to work for other

people. Trade servants, including those en-

gaged in hotels and refreshment houses, game

watchers and persons not residing in employer's

house engaged for a portion only of each day,

are not servants in that sense and do not require

to bo licensed.

Penalties for Employing Male Servants without

a Licence. - It is tho duty of any person employ-

ing male servants to render a declaration to this

effect to tho Inland Revenue authorities in tho

month of January each year. The penalty for

nerjlecting to deliver or refusing to deliver such

declaration is £20, or for employing a male

servant without a proper licence, or employing

more male servants than authorised by the

licence, is also £20.

Armorial Bearings. - The general regulations

and penalties affecting the use of armorial

bearings are the same as those which apply

in the case of " male servants." The licence

must bo taken out annually, and the duty

payable is £1, Is., but if used on the carriage

the amount is increased to £2, 2s. Any person

wearing or using armorial bearings, even as

an ornament, is bound to take out a licence.

The wearing of a signet ring with a lion

rampant engraved thereon renders the wearer

liable to duty, so is the user of notepaper

Avith a similar device printed on his note-

paper.

Certain persons are exempted from making

declarations, or taking out licences, either for

the employment of malo servants or the use

of armorial bearings. These are : (1) Members

of tho Royal Family ; (2) sheriffs and mayors

of corporations serving an annual office therein

in respect of any servants or carriages kept

for the purposes of office during the year of

service ; (3) persons wearing by right of office

any arms or insignia of members of tho Royal

Family, or of any corporation or royal burgh in

respect of the use of any such arms or insignia ;

(4) any person ordinarily resident in Ireland,

who is a representative peer on the part of Ire-

land or a member of the House of Commons,

and not residing in Great Britain longer than

forty days before and forty days after such

session.

Carriages. - For every carriage which has foui*

or more wheels and is fitted to bo drawn by two

or more horses or mules, or drawn or propelled

by mechanical power, a licence costing £2, 2s.

must be taken out by the owner. If a four-

wheeled carriage is fitted to be drawn by one

horse only, then the cost of the licence is

£1, Is. This amount is reduced to 15s. if

the one-horse carriage has less than four

wheels ; the licence for all kinds of hackney

carriages is 15s.

Vehicles Exempt from Licence. - Carriages

which are kept but not used at any time during

the year do not require to be licensed, neither

do vehicles constructed and used solely for the

conveyance of goods of trade or husbandry.

Those latter must have tho Christian name and

surname and address of the o\Amor printed on

them in letters of not less than one inch in length.

If, however, a tradesman uses his trade vehicle

for tho purpose of giving his friends or his

family pleasurable jaunts, and not solely for

tho purposes of his trade, he will bo roquii-ed to

take out a licence ; moreover, the vehicle must

bo constructed or adapted for trade purposes.

Therefore a wardrobe dealer cannot avoid the

duty if he conveys goods in a governess cart,

even if he has his name and address painted

upon it and does not use it for pleasure or

any other purpose than in tho exercise of his

calling.

Motor Cars and Cycles. - A person employed

to drive a motor car is a male " servant," and

the employ or is liable to an annual dutj' of IDs.

MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE

385

in respect of such a driver. The duties payable

on motor cars are as follows : -

Motor bicycles and tricycles ....

Motor cars not exceeding 6| h.-p. .

,, exceeding 6 h.-p. but under 12 h.-p.

£, s. d.

10 0

2 2 0

3 3 0

4 4 0

6 6 0

8 8 0

10 10 0

21 1 0

42 0 0

Registration of Motor Cars and Motor Cycles. -

Every cai' must be registered and must bear a

mark indicating its number and the County

Council for which it is registered. The fee for

registration is £1, but in the case of motor cycles

it is 5s. The penalty for using a car without

being registered or using a car the mark on which

is obscured or defaced, is for a first ofience a

penalty not exceeding £10, and for a subsequent

offence a penalty not exceeding £50 or three

months imprisoninent.

Licence of Drivers. - Every person driving a

motor car must have a licence, the fee for

which is 5s. The licence is good for twelve

months, and must be produced by the driver

when demanded by a police constable, otherwise

the driver is liable to a fine not exceeding £5.

No person under the age of seventeen years can

obtain a licence for driving a motor car, but

in the case of motor cycles the age limit is

14 years.

Any person who drives a motor car without

being Ucensed is hable to a fine not exceeding

£20 for a first offence, and for a subsequent

offence to a penalty not exceeding £50 or three

months imprisonment.

Regulations as to Lights, Bells, and Horns. -

During the period between one hour after sunset

and one hour before sunrise, the person in charge

of a motor car must carry attached thereto

lamps so constructed and placed as to exhibit

lights in accordance with the regulations of the

Local Government Board. Moreover, all motor

cars must carry bells or other instruments

warning of their approach. Failure to comply

with these regulations incurs the penalty of a

fine not exceeding £10.

Dog Licences. - With a lew exceptions which

will be detailed below, persons wishing to keep

a dog must take out an annual Hcence for the

purpose. The cost of each dog Ucence is 7s. 6d.

The licences are issued by the Inland Revenue

department, and may be obtained at any post

office. A register of the persons licensed and

the number of dogs for wliich they hold licences

is kept, and is open to the inspection of police

constables and justic>>s of the peace. All dog

licences expire on December 31, irrespective of

the date of issue. No rebate is allowed if the

licence is operative for less than a year. The

licence does not apply to a particular dog ; it ia

the owner who is licensed to keep the dog, and

he cannot transfer the Ucence to another person,

even if that person should become the owner of

the dog.

Dogs Exempted from Payment of Duty. - In the

following cases no hcence is required : -

(1) For dogs under six months old.

(2) Hound puppies under twelve months old

not entered or used with a pack of hounds.

(3) In the case of a dog kept and used solely

by a blind person for his guidance.

(4) Dogs kept and used solely for the purpose

of tending sheep or cattle. The number in this

case is restricted to two.

Penalties for Keeping a Dog without a Licence.

- A person keeping a dog without a licence or

keeping more dogs than he is Ucensed to keep,

or refusing to produce a Ucence on the demand of

an Excise Officer or constable, renders himself

liable to a penalty not exceeding £5.

Dog Owner's Responsibilities. - The most im-

portant question in regard to dogs from the

point of view of the owner is in connection with

the degree of responsibiUty which attaches to

her for acts committed by her canine pet. The

old saying that every dog is entitled to its first

bite is not entu'ely accurate, but it gives a rough

idea of the principles upon which the Courts

have acted. In order to make an owner Uable

for an assault committed by a dog upon a

person, the Court demands that there must be

some evidence of knowledge on the part of the

owner that the dog had a disposition to bite

people. It would be possible to prove this

knowledge in many ways, even although the

animal may not have actually bitten any one

before. Should a dog injure cattle his owner

is Uable for damage whether he was aware

of the mischievous propensity of the dog or

not.

Damage to Dogs. - A person is entitled to

kill a dog in self-defence, and in certain circum-

stances in defence of his property. Tlius a

landowner may kill a dog which is actually

chasing sheep or rabbits in a wari-en if the act

is necessary for the safety of his property,

but not otherwise ; and a dog in pursuit of game

may also be shot by the owner of the game,

but not if the bird or animal piirsued is out of

danger.

Collars. - The Board of Agricultm-e has power

to make orders for prescribing and regulating

the wearing of collars by dogs when out of doors,

each collar to have the name and address of the

owner inscribed upon it on a plate or badge

attached to it. By an order dated 22nd of

October, 1 906, the Board has exempted packs of

hounds, dogs used for sporting purposes, the

capture of vermin, or the tending of sheep, from

this regulation.

Stray Dogs. - Where a police officer has reason

to believe that any dog found in a highway or

386

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

place of public resort is a stray dog, he may

seize the dog and retain it until the owner has

claimed it and paid all expenses incxirred by

tefison of its detention. But the owner, if

known, is entitled to a notice that the dog has

been so seized, and will be liable to be sold or

destroyed if not claimed within seven clear days

after the service of the notice.

Railway Companies and Dogs. - When a dog

is sent from one place to another by rail the

railway company will only be hable to the

owner when a dog is killed or injured as a result

of the negligence or default of the servants of

the company.

The company is, in addition, permitted to

make conditions hmiting the liabihty it is pre-

pared to assume ; but in order to make them

binding upon the public it is necessary first

that the conditions should be reasonable, and,

secondly, there must be a memorandum of the

contract between the parties signed by the

consignor of the dog or his agent. A very

usual form of such condition is one which Hmits

the liabihty of the company to a small fixed sum,

unless the full value of the dog is declared, and a

certain percentage paid upon the excess value

over the sum fixed. If, however, the railway

officials allow the dog to be despatched with-

out this condition being signed, the owner

can recover the whole amount of the loss,

whether he has paid an additional percentage

or not.

Railway Companies' and Passengers' Luggage. -

A railway company is liable to passengers for

loss of their luggage. Of course, if the passenger

carries the luggage in the carriage in which he

is seated, he assumes control over it himself,

and the company is then only hable for loss due

to the neghgence or wilful misconduct of their

servants ; whereas if the luggage is placed in the

van, the company is liable for any loss or damage,

no matter how caused, except damage arising

through some inherent defect in the luggage

itself, such as bad packing.

A railway company, however, is not liable for

loss or injury to gold or silver articles, clocks,

jewellery, watches, bills, money securities,

pictures, stamps, maps, writings, plated goods,

glass, china, silks, furs, or hand-made lace if the

value exceeds £15, unless their value is declared

by the passenger, and an increased charge paid.

Railway companies may hmit their liability in

regard to carrying cycles, making a condition

that such machines are carried at their owners'

risk. But these conditions must be agreed to

by the owner of the cycle and signed by him,

and even then the company will be responsible

for any loss caused through the negligence or

fault of their servants, but they will not be hable

as common carriers.

The liability of the companies for passengers'

luggage begins from the moment the luggage is

handed to their servants for conveyance to the

van or carriage or to be labelled, and ends when

the luggage is dchvered to the passenger and

placed on his cab. If the luggage is merely

handed to a porter to look after it without any

further directions, the company is not hable for

damage that may occur to it. The luggage must

be handed to the porter for immediate or present

and not for future conveyance. A passenger

must claim his luggage within a reasonable time.

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

Sewing has been from olden times an art the practice of which has been the special privilege

of women. In many ancient stories and histories the typical woman is introduced to us plying

her needle. Thus we see in the " Odyssey " Penelope awaiting her royal husband, Ulysses, working

at her famous piece of linen or tapestry, and of the model woman described in Proverbs we are

told : " She seeketh wool and flax and worketh willingly with her hands . . . she maketh herself

coverings of tapestry . . , she maketh fine linen," &c.

We can see in our museums and palaces beautiful needlework done by women of all times ; yet,

strange though it may seem, for the last generation or two until quite recently needlework has

been looked down upon by a certain class of people, with the most lamentable results, for this

ignorance is usually displayed by those to whom the saving effected by a knowledge of practical

sewing would come as an inexpressible boon.

Fortunately much is done nowadays in schools and training colleges for the teaching of needle-

work, and the girl of the present day, the mother of to-morrow, will know how to add to the comfort

and happiness of her home by the clever and timely use of her needle.

It should be the duty of the head of every household to see that the house linen and the children's

clothes are kept in order, and to mend them when there is no one else to do it. "A stitch in time

saves nine " is one of the truest sayings, and a mother should teach her children to sew as soon

as they can be safely trusted with needle and thread.

Every girl or woman can become a neat sewer, and it is important that to begin with she

should know the making of every stitch as well as the diff orent materials and their use. Our

object here is to explain these essential factors in a simple and comprehensive manner in order to

make them as easy as possible for the beginner.

THE WORK-BASKET AND WHAT IT

SHOULD CONTAIN

First of all each worker must have her own

work-basket independently of the household

mending bag or basket. A wicker one is best,

as it is lighter and easier

to carry about. A light

wicker portable work-table

with two fixed trays and a

handle is also useful where

there is much mending to be

done, and it can be bought

for a few shillings.

The T.'ork-basket should

be of medium size, lined,

and furnished with pockets

round the sides to keep

sewing cotton, tapes, &c.,

apart and in order, the centre portion being

allotted to the work itself.

The work-basket should contain : -

Two pairs of scissors - one large pair for

cutting-out, with one blade pointed and the

other round, the latter to be held underneath

the material when cutting ; and one small pair

for cutting threarls, for unpicking and any finer

work. The rings of the scissors ought to be

387

Work-Basket

round and large enough for the fingers to enter

comfortably.

A good thimble - a silver one to be preferred,

and one that fits the finger comfortably.

A good supply of ordinary needles of the best

qualitJ^ To test if they are good try to break

one between the fingers. If the temper of the

steel is first rate it will break off sharply, but

with difficulty ; if it breaks too easily, like a

piece of glass, or bends, the needle is not good.

The needles should be long-eyed to be easily

tlireaded, and the holes ought to be well pohshed,

so that they will not fray nor break the thread.

For working the ordinary seams in plain needle-

work short needles are best, but for other work

longer ones will be required. It will be useful

to have an assortment of different sizes of

needles from Nos. 5 to 12 to suit the various

tliicknesses of thread that will be used. There

ought also to be a small supply of other kinds

of needles, such as crewel needles, darners,

chenille needles, Berlin wool needles, &c. It is

a good plan to buy a needle-case fitted with

the best quality of needles and containing all

the different shapes and sizes that may be

required.

A small emery cushion to polish rusty needles.

Five or six reels of white cotton, one of them

388

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

\-ery fine to match No. 10 needles, and two or

three reels of black cotton. (The numbers vary

with different meJiere.)

A card or reel of whito darning cotton for

stockings.

A card or reel of black darning cotton for

stockings.

A card or reel of tan darning cotton for

stockings.

A few skeins of white embroidery cotton.

A reel of white silk, medium size.

A reel of black silk, medium size.

A reel of black silk, tliick for button-holes.

Also a card or reel of cotton or silk of the

colour of each dress, pair of gloves, stockings, &c.,

for mending.

Darning wool to match the stockings and

imderclothing.

A reel or skein of whito and one of black Unen

thread may be very useful for sewing linen,

holland, and other strong materials.

Wliitљ crochet cotton for fancy stitches.

A box of mixed pins.

One or two bodkins for running in tapes

and ribbons.

A stiletto for piercing holes to make eyelet

holes, &c.

Pieces of tape, white and black of different

sizes, linen and cotton.

Linen buttons in assorted sizes.

Pearl buttons in assorted sizes.

\Vhito and black hooks and eyes of different

sizes.

A tape measure marked with inches on one

side and centimetres on the other.

A small pin-cushion.

Machine needles, cotton, &c., should bo kept

with the machine outfit ; they will be more

handy in the machine drawer. The small

articles, such as hooks and eyes and buttons,

should be kept in a little box or a small bag ;

or a glass bottle with a screw lid is good, SiS the

contents can so easily bo seen.

SIMPLE STITCHES

General Hints. - Before describing the different

stitches used in plain needlework it might be

as well to give a few preliminary instructions.

The position of the body when sewing is very

important. Whatever the work may be there

is never any need to sit in an awkward position.

The height of the chair ought to be in propor-

tion to that of the table at which one is sitting,

and if this is somewhat high a foot-stool may

be used. There must be no undue stooping

of the body, and the work must be held suffi-

ciently high to prevent more than a slight in-

clination of the head.

Sewing should always be done in a good

light ; there must be no straining of the eye-

sight.

The work should never be pinned to the knee,

as this causes the body to take an ungainly

attitude, but should be fixed to a small weighted

cushion on the table when it is necessary to

keep it in a certain position.

The thread must never be bitten off with the

teeth, but neatly cut with a pair of scissors.

Both thread and needle must be adapted to

each other, and also to the material with wluch

they are to be used. Fine cotton and fine

needles should be used for fine material, and

thicker needle and cotton for coarser material.

The needle ought always to be chosen a little

thicker than the cotton in order to make a

hole large enough for the latter to enter easily.

The end of the cotton which hangs loose from

the reel should always be put through the

needle first and the thread used the way it

unwinds. It wU bo loss likely to break and

fray out if this is done. Never sow with a bent

needle, as it will be impossible to make noat

and even stitches, and if it becomes sticky pass

it several times through the emery cushion.

Be careful how you commence and finish each

new seam. The thimble should be worn on

the middle finger of the right hand.

The following explanations of stitches are

made as simple and varied as possible. The

best way to master a new stitch is to read each

explanation t^^^ce through, study the illustra-

tions of it thorouglily, and only then begin

attempting it. Practice will show that this is

not waste of time. It ^vill be a little slower

perhaps at the commencement, but the worker

will soon find herself doing quicker and more

accurate work.

Also be very exact in the measurements,

one-eighth, one-sixth, one quarter, &o., of an

inch; those will become so familiar with time

and practice that thoy will hardly need to be

measured.

Basting or Tacking. - Basting or tacking is

used to keep the different parts of the garments

together, or to fix the seams and ^/atterns

straight and securely before they are sewn.

It is really a preparation soam, and should bo

liasting or Tacking.

done most carefully, and never be overlooked

under pretence that it is waste of time. It

will be found in the long run that on the contrary

it is a groat saving of time, besides being the

only sure means of producing noat and even

work. Begin by making a knot at the end of

a fairly long piece of cotton, as tacking threads

are more easily taken out when there is a knot by

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

389

which to take hold of them. Basting or tacking

cottona shoiild be used if possible, preferably

pink, pale blue, or any colour that will not soil

white material, and wliich will be easily seen.

Hold the material Ughtly, yet firmly, so that it

may not slip, and make the stitches just above

where the hne of running, hemming or seaming

stitches will be. Begin at the right-hand side,

put in the needle straight down, and bring it

out on a horizontal Mne a quarter of an inch

further on ; pass ov^r half an inch and put

the needle in again and out another quarter

of an inch farther, and so on, making the stitches

twice as large as the intervals left between them.

At the end of the seam put the needle twice

in the same stitch, making what is called a

back-stitch, so as to fasten off the thread.

Hemming. - Hemiuing is used to fasten down

the raw edge of all materials, to fell, or fold

down a seam. Nearly aU articles of household

linen and underclothing require hemming. The

piu-pose of the hem is to strengthen and orna-

ment the edge of the material. It can, if wished,

be finished off prettily with fancy stitches or a

lace edging. A great deal of hemming is done

by machine ; this certainly saves time and

trouble and does for longer or coarser articles,

but neat work done by hand is always more

elegant, lasting, and valuable.

A hem is of different widths according to the

piece of work for which it is used. It varies from

the eighth of an inch hem at the end of a mushn

frill to the one of three or four inches or more

in width at the foot of a petticoat or a dress.

Laying the Hem. - The hem must be cut per-

fectly straight, to a thread if possible. Cahco,

muslin, and cotton materials generally tear to

a tliread, but as they are apt to pull cross-

ways, especially those that are stiffened, one

should first try on a piece of the material if

it tears well. After tearing hold the material

by the two opposite corners diagonally and

pull it carefully until the raw edges are in a

straight horizontal line again. This done, hold

the wrong side of the material towards you.

Turn down the raw edge towards you : tliis first

fold should be one-quarter or one-third of an inch

wide, according to the width of the hem. In

musliuj, nainsook, or any light materials the first

fold should be exactly as wide as the hem itself so

that the raw edges do not show through. Now

fold ovec the hem for the second time to the

desired width. Do the folding on the table if pos-

sible, making the hem of the required depth, and

press down firmly with the nail of the thumb.

Some people prefer to hold up the material in the

right hand and fold it as they go along, pressing

it down with the thumb of the left hand. This

method, however, has the disadvantage of creas-

ing the material, tlms detracting from that

" new " appearance which adds to the value of

hand-made garments.

To ensure the even folding of wide hems it

is a good plan to use a card notched to the

width of the hem and to measure every three

or four inches before pressing down for the

second folding. In hemming serge or any

material that will not crease, the first folding

down should be tacked, and the card-measure

apphed to every stitch for the second folding.

Flannel hems are only turned down once.

When hemming the four sides of a square

turn down the two opposite sides first, then

the two other opposite sides, so that the corners

may be aUke. When the hem is turned down

it should be tacked unless it is too smaU. ilake

the tacking stitches about one-eighth of an inch

above the edge.

Sewing the Hem. - Hold the hem in your left

hand. The cotton should be about the tliick-

ness of the tlxreads of the material. Do not

take it too long. Insert the point of the needle

under the second fold of the hem at the right-

Hemming.

hand side, two threads from the edge of the

hem. Draw it tlirough, leaving an end of

cotton half an inch long. Shp this end under

the fold towards the left, and hold the hem

secm-ely over the first finger so that it does

not slip.

Insert the point of the needle in the material

just below the edge of the fold, two or tlu-ee

tlireads to the left of the place where the needle

was first put in. Direct it slantingly upwards

to the left, take two or tlu-ee tlireads diagonally,

and bring the needle out through the fold of

the hem, on the same Une and five or six thi-eads

apart from the first place the needle came

through. Go on thus holding the needle

slantingly, the point upwards until the cotton

is finished. When taking a new length of

cotton, tuck the ends under the fold of the

hem.

To fasten off, work twice over the last stitch

and cut the cotton close to the fold if it is a raw

edge that will be covered. If it is a selvedge,

or the top hem on a square henuned on all sides,

the hem should be continued to the end of the

material, then the corners should be carefully

seamed. At the end of the seam make a

double stitch, insert the needle between the

fold and the hem at the top, bring it out on

the wrong side the length of the needle, and cut

the tliread close to the hem. If the cotton is

lightly pulled when cutting it will disappear in

the fold.

390

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Avoid pvilling the cotton in hemming or the

material will be puckered ; only pull it if the

hem is a circular one, and convex, or if you

fell a seam on the cross £is on the sides of a

chemise or a night -govrn, when the stitches

should then be very close together. If the hem

is concave, as round a neck or an armhole, the

material will need to be stretched to he flat,

or else it must be snipped with the scissors ;

this should be thought of when tacking, and

in hemming the material should be carefully

stretched on the left forefinger.

Felling. - ^Tliis is the same as hemming. The

term is always apphed in connection with seams,

where two pieces of material are joined together

and one edge is folded in and hemmed down,

as in the " run and fell " seam.

Running and Gathering. - ^Running is a stitch

used for joining together two pieces of material,

as in a run and foil seam ; it is also used for

making tucks. It does not make a strong

seam, and should not be employed where there

is much strain. It is a stitch sometliing hke

tacking, only the stitches are much shorter and

are all of the same size. If the material is thin,

like muslin or soft hke silk, several stitches may

be taken up at once on the needle. Hold the

work in the same way as for basting. Do not

Running.

knot the cotton, but begin at the right-hand

side with a back-stitch. When ready to take

a fresh needleful of cotton, first work over the

last stitch twice with the old cotton, pulUng

the needle for thaso extra stitches through one

piece of the material only, then cut off the

thread, put the needle with the new cotton in

the second last stitch ; make a double stitch

in the last two stitches also through the single

material, then proceed with the running to

the end. Fasten off with a back-stitch. For

gathering, the stitches should be double the size

of the spaces (see p. 395).

Seaming or Top Sewing is very like over-

Cfisting, only the stitches are finer and closer

together. It is used to join two pieces of

material together as in the sew and fell seam,

and is worked over the edge of the material.

V^'hen two selvedges have to be joined it is

generally this stitch which is used. Place the

two selvedges together with the wrong sides out-

wards and tack them about one-eighth inch down.

For seaming, hold the work upright between

the left thumb and forefinger. Begin at the right-

hand end, leaving about half an inch of cotton

to be worked over with the first few stitches.

Sew over and over the two selvedges, making

neat slanting stitches and just deep enough to

hold the pieces together. There must bo no

knots made in seaming. When a new piece

of cotton is required, work over the two ends

with the first few stitches. The ends must

remain near the surface of the seam, and the

stitches must be taken underneath so as to

Seaming or Top Sewing.

hide them and make them secure at the same

time. Then continue to the end of the seam.

To fasten off, work backwards over the last

three stitches exactly in the same holes so as

to make three neat Uttle crosses ; after the third

insert your needle to the right in the middle of

the stitches and bring it out to the left at the

end of the seam. Then cut off the cotton and

take out the tacking threads. Open out the

work on the table and flatten it carefully from

right to left with the thumb-nail.

Stitching. - In stitching a short stitch is taken

on the upper and a long one on the under side,

then the needle is taken backwards through the

hole made by the last stitch. Stitching is used

to finish off neck and wrist bands, and for seams

where a very strong even stitch is required.

Stitching is always worked on two or moro

thicknesses of material. It is apt to tire the

eyes, and should not be worked for too long

at a time ; in fact, long -stitched seams should

be done by a good machine. When stitching

bj' hand, if a straight lino of stitches is required,

it is bettor to draw a tliread of the material.

Tliis requires a little skill and careful attention.

Choose a thread thicker than the others if

Stitching.

possible, keeping of course in the correct place

where the stitching ought to be. Insert the

needle under it about half an inch from the

right-side end and bring it out. Secure it firmly

between the thumb and forefinger of your right

hand, and hold the whole width of the material

where the stitching is to be worked in your left

hand also between tho thumb and finger. Then

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

391

ease the material from the thread by rubbing

it gently along, beginning at the right-hand

side, with the thumb and forefinger of your left

hand, and make it gently sHp on the tliread.

When the tliread breaks, which often happens

in light materials, it is easily found again, as

the material is slightly creased near the broken

part. Take it up again half an inch from the

broken end and go on drawing very gently.

Back-stitching is much the same as stitching,

only the stitch is taken half-way back instead

Back-Stitching.

of all tho way, leaving a small space between

each stitch.

Overcasting. - Overcasting is not used as a

rule for any of the seams or any sewing worked

on calico or Mnen materials. It is used for

edges or seams in dress bodices, sleeves, and

skirts when the raw edges cannot be hidden

in any other way. It is difficult to overcast

' rvTrimnnnnmrrv

Overcasting.

very evenly. The sticches are usually worked

from left to right as in illustration. Be very

careful in overcasting not to draw the thread too

tightly or the edge would curl. When the seam

has to be smpped to allow it to curve outwards,

the overcasting should follow the cuts, be done

neatly over the angles, and two or three close

stitches made inside the snips so that the

material should not um-avel near the seam.

DIJTERENT CALICO SEAMS

Seams are used to join together widths or

pieces of material. They vary according to

the materials or garments they are used for.

There are six different kinds of calico seams : -

(1) The Top-sewing Seam, which is used for

the joining together of two selvedges.

(2) The Sew and Fell Seam.- Used for caHco

garments, such as chemises, drawers, night-

dresses, men's shirts, and any garments which

need to be joined very strongly.

(3) The Run and Fell Seam.- Used for cahco,

muslin, and garments of hghter material.

(4) The French Seam. - Used especially for

thin materials and silk, for making slip-bodices

and outer garments, as overalls, pinafores, and

any garments of which as little as possible of

the seam must be seen on the right side.

(5) The Mantua-maker's Seam. - Used for

fine materials, more especially used in dress-

making for pockets, sleeves, seams of skirts,

and any garments that have no hning. It is

much used also for fancy articles, as silk bags,

reticules, &c.

(6) The Counter Hem. - Used sometimes for

under bodices, nightgowns, shoulder seams,

infants' first shirts, and baby clothes in general.

Notes. - When making the seam in a garment

the fell should always fall towards the back.

The \vidth of seams must always be the same

tliiroughout. If one breadth of the material is

straight and the other gored, i.e. on the cross,

the gored breadth should alwaj's be next to the

worker. The corresponding seams in garments

should always be worked to pair with each

other ; that is to say, if one seam is begun at

the top the corresponding one must be begun

at the bottom, as in sleeves, for instance.

The Sew and Fell Seam. - To make a sew and

fell seam turn down an eighth of an inch on

the wrong side of one of the pieces of material

Fig. 1.

to be joined. Turn down an eighth of an inch

on the right side of the other piece of material ;

turn back tliis folded edge nearly a quarter of

an inch, still holding the material exactly in the

same way. This double fold must always be

on the front %vidth of the material when joining

the pieces of a garment together. If one side

of the seam is on the cross, as in nightgowns,

the double fold should be made on the straight

side.

Put the two pieces of material together edge

to edge with the right side outside and the folds

inside, and tack an eighth of an inch from the

top, beginning at the bottoni of the garment.

Then seam neatly together, beginning at the

bottom of the garment (fig. 1).

Fig. 2.

When the seaming is done, take out the

tacking threads, open the seam, and press it

doMm flat on the table with the thumb-nail in

392

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the same direction as the seaming has been

worked. Turn over the work on tlie wrong

side, tack down the fold and neatly fell it.

Then take out the tacking tlireads (fig. 2).

The Run and Fell Seam. - The run and fell

seam is simpler and easier than the sow and

fell seam, and can often be used instead of it.

To make a run and fell seam turn down an

eighth of an inch on the right side of one of the

pieces of material to be joined and crease it

well down. Place the raw edge of the second

piece of material under this crease so that the

two right sides of the material are turned in-

wards face to face.

Tack the two pieces of material together begin-

ning at the right-hand side a Uttle distance from

FlO. 3.

the edge. Be careful to put the needle through

the three thicknesses. Then run the two pieces

neatly together just below the tacking thread,

taking a back-stitch every six stitches or so.

Take out the tacking threads and press the

seam perfectly flat, so that the raw edge is

Fio. 4

hidden els in a hem. Tack the fold down neatly

and then fell it (fig. 4).

The French Seam. - To make a French seam

put the two pieces of material together edge

Fifl. 5.

to edge with the right sides outwards. Tack,

then run, with an occasional back-stitch an

eighth of an inch down from the top edge

(fig. 6). Remove the tacking thread, turn the

Fio. 6.

work over to the wrong side, and press the seam

carefully so that it forms the top edge. Tack

an eighth of an inch down from the top and

run below this, being very careful to take in

the raw edges on the other side (fig. 6). If the

material is heavy, or if the seam has to be very

strong, stitching may bo worked instead of

running.

The Mantua-maker's Seam. - Lay the two raw

edges of the materials together, the right sides

inwards, and so that the top width hes an

eighth of an inch below the under width. Turn

down that eighth of an inch of the under-width

Fia. 7.

over the top width. Again turn down the

two materials together an eighth of an inch

deep. Tack through the whole thickness very

carefully. Then hem, being very c£u*eful to take

every stitch through the under-side (fig. 7).

Remove the tacking stitches. The seam will

stand in a ridge instead of lying flat.

The Counter Hem. - For counter hemming,

turn down a fold an eighth of an inch deep on

the right side of one of the widths of material.

Jig. 8.

Turn down a fold an eighth of an inch deep on

the wrong side of the other width of material.

Place the two folded edges over one another

and pin the seam down the middle, then tack

down the fold on the right side. Turn over

and tack down the fold on the wrong side, or,

if the material hes easily, it may be tacked once

only down the centre (fig. 8). Take out the pins

and hem down the fold on the right side, then

Fio. 9.

hem on the wrong side (fig. 9). Some people

stitch this seam instead of hemming it down.

In that case both rows of stitches should be

made on the right side, and the tacking made

so that the stitches should be very near the

edge of both folds.

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

393

A False Hem. - A false hem is used to join a

piece or strip of material on to another garment.,

It is meant either to lengthen a garment or to

strengthen it. The material used for the false

hem need not necessarily be the same as that

of the garment. Cut and join together a strip

of material long enough for the false hem

required.

The joining should as much as possible be

done on selvedges and top sewn. K that is not

possible, fold down the raw edges of the materials

to be joined half an inch wide. Put the folds

down back to back, so that the raw edges be

outwards, and overseam. Open the seam out

so that the folds he flat on each side.

When the strip is prepared, place it against

the garment the right sides inwards, and the

Fig. 10.

two edges even one with the other. Tack and run

them together quarter of an inch at least from the

top (fig. 10). Then turn over the false hem and

fold it down half an inch above the seam, so

that the latter does not show on the outside.

Tack this fold cajrefully half an inch from the

foot, then place the garment very flat on

the table, with the wrong side uppermost, and

fold in the raw edge of the false hem half an inch

Fig. h.

inwards. Tack it very carefully an eighth of

an inch above the edge. Then hem it down

(% 11).

DIFFERENT FLANNEL SEAMS

Flannel seams differ from calico seams in

that they are not made with double folds, as the

material is too thick. There are three different

kinds of flannel seams : -

I. and II. - The Open Flannel Seams, used when

a very flat seam is required, as in baby clothes,

barracoata, flannel vests, bodices, &c.

ni. - The Closed Flannel Seam.used for stronger

garments, as flannel petticoats, flannel shirts,

night-dresses, &c.

The Open Flannel Seam. - ^I. To make an open

flannel seam, place the two jiieces of flannel

together, the right sides inwards, and the edges

exactly parallel. Tack, then run them to-

gether a httle more than an eighth of an inch

down from the top. Take out the tacking

threads. Open the seam out and turn down

each edge of the flannel on to its own piece

of material. Flatten at the join and tack down

Fig. 12.

if necessary. Herring-bone each fold down,

taking one thickness of material only, first the

fold at the top and then the material below in

turns (fig. 12). (For Herring-boning, see p. 397.)

II. There is another way of feUing an

open flannel seam. When the seam is run

and flattened down, work only one row of

herring-boning in the exact centre of the seam

on the wrong side, one stitch above the join

and one below alternately, being very careful

to work through both thicknesses and show neat

running stitches on the right side of the work.

This seam is not so neat as the first, only it is

quicker and quite strong. Tlie raw edges are

not wide enough to unravel.

The Closed Flannel Seam. - To make a closed

flannel seam put the two pieces of flannel together

with the right sides inwards, the top piece of

flannel an eighth inch below the under. If one

of the widths is gored, put the gored one on the

top of the other. Tack one-sixth of an inch below

the gored edge, then run and back-stitch just

below the tacking. Take out the tacking threads.

Fold the longer edge over the shorter one, making

Fio. 13

the seam as flat as possible, and tack in position.

Then herring-bone dowTi and remove the tacking

threads (fig. 13).

TUCKING

To Measure and Make Tucks. - Tucks are folds

of material taken double and resting on the

single material. They vary in width according

to the material and the garment. In muslin,

nainsook, cambric, &c., for baby gowns, fine

394

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tan, ^Cut

blouses, rabats, handkercliiefs, &c., they are very

small. In underliaen tliey are a little wider. In

flannel petticoats they are often one or two

inches deep ; also at tlie foot of drosses, &c.

Sometimes they are arranged in sets with a

space between or ^^nth a deeper tuck between.

These sets should always be uneven in nvunber,

t.e. 3, 5, 7, &c.

They may also be graduated in size. For

instance, the tuck above the hem would be the

largest, the next one would be smaller, and

BO on until the top one, which would be smallest

of all.

In making tucks it must be remembered that

efich tuck occupies tliree times its width, i.e. : -

1. The surface side of the tuck.

2. The under side of the tuck,

3. The width of material the tuck lies upon.

So for a tuck a quarter of an inch deep, you

require to leave tliree-quarter inches width, not

counting the space left

between the tucks. Those

spaces vary according to the

width of the tucks and also

according to taste ; there

is no definite rule. Gener-

ally, if the tucks are moder-

ately narrow, the space

should bo the size of the

tuck, so that a quarter of

an inch tuck would require

one inch of material, i.e.

the three-quarter of an inch

required for the making of

it, plus a quarter of an inch for space. If the

tucks are wide, the spaces should be a half or

a third of the size of the tucks.

When tucks are very narrow or in sets, each

tuck may touch the running stitches of the

preceding one without hiding the stitches.

But, again, this is according to taste. Tucks

must never overlap each other.

When you have decided upon the size of the

tucks, the best way is to make a tuck-marker

by notching a piece of cardboad or stif? paper to

the right depth so that each tuck may be very

Tuck- Marker.

Tucking.

accurate. Carry the marker along the tuck as

you tack it every throe or four inches. Some

people prefer to use a tape measure or a small

inch ruler, but this is not such an ea.sy forrr of

measureinent. The method of making the tuck-

marker is shown in the diagram.

In fine materials it is sometimes a good plan

to draw a tlu-ead where the running stitches

are to be worked and work along that. Never

draw a thread at the edge of the tuck, as it

would soon wear out with washing and ironing.

For running the tucks fold them upwards,

as the running stitches must be worked on

the under side. Jlako the running stitches one

thread below the tacking stitches. Make no

back-stitches except in beginning and fastening

off, and be careful to show on the top of the

tuck a row of neat and even stitches.

PIPING

Piping is used for strengthening tlie neck

and armholes of outer garments as overalls and

frocks ; also for trimming purposes.

For piping use a piece of cotton cord or fine

string if proper piping cord cannot be procured.

String does not look so well, as it is too stiff.

The cord must be inserted in strips of material

generally cut on the cross or bias (see p. 434).

treasure from the cross-way edges one and one-

eighth inches and cut strips along them until you

have the length required for the piping. When

one strip is cut it is quicker and surer to put

it down again on the material cross edges to

cross edges, and to cut the other strips from it.

Stitch the pieces together a little more than

an eighth of an inch from the top, then open

out the seams and flatten them well. Be care-

ful to stitch aU the joins on the wrong side of

the material. Any scraps of the material may

be used for the strips, only be very careful to

cut them of equal width.

When the strip is the proper length, tiu-n down

three-eighth of an inch on the wrong aide of the

material \vithout stretching the work. Crease

well down, then lift up the fold and place the

cord along the crease. Turn tho fold down

Fio. 14.

again and tack along through both thicknesses of

material (fig. 14). Tho tacking stitches require

to be smaller than ordinary tacking stitches.

Place the narrow edge of the piping exactly on

to the raw edge of the right side of garment and

tack carefully through the three thicknesses of

material. Run and back-stitch quite close to

the cord, but be careful not to put the needle

through it (fig. 15). Take out the tacking

threads and cut the cords the required length.

Turn over and press carefully so that the

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

cord stands out along the top. Then fell the

edge of the piping on to the material.

When the piping has to come in the middle of

two thicknesses of material, as at the foot of

a lined yoke, the cross -way strips of material

should be cut tliree-quarters to one inch wide.

Then fold in two and put in the cord as before.

The piping must be placed first to the right side

Fig. 15.

of the garment with the uppermost edges exactly

even ; tht-n the bottom of the yoke on the top

with the edge uppermost and even with the

other two edges, so that the piping is between

the garment and the yoke. Tack in position,

then stitch through all thicknesses close to the

cord. Then turn up the yoke, and hem down

the yoke lining over all the raw edges on the

wrong side of the garment.

Piping can be used to draw the tops of frills

and flounces. A crease should be made where

the material has to be drawn, the cord placed

inside on the wrong side of the garment, then

secured with running on the right side. When

the running is done, hold the left-side end of the

cord in your left hand and shp the material

gently along with the Ihiunb and forefinger of

your right hand. Several rows of this piping

and drawing make a very effective trimming.

GATHERING, STROKING, AND SETTING IN

Gathering stitches resemble running stitches,

only in gathering you leave more tlireads than

you take up, so as to make the gathers deeper and

easier to keep in order and to give a fluted and

grooved effect. You may take up two threads

and miss four, or take four and miss six, accord-

ing to the amount of material that has to be

gathered into a given space. Gathering is

worked on the right side of the material across

the selvedge. It must be done very evenly.

The cotton used in gathering should bo coarser

than the one used for ordinary sewing. Do not

double the cotton, as it is apt to twist and knot,

and if one thread breaks it looks untidy. The

material gathered should as a rule be "at least

half as wide again as the band or yoke into

which it is required to fit. Find the middle of

the material and mark it vnth a pin or stitched

cross. Divide again into quarters and mark

them. Turn down the top edge a quarter of

an inch, crease it well down, and then open it.

The gathering stitohes must be made along the

crease. Begin the gathering at the right-hand

395

side. If there are hems on the sides, leave them

perfectly flat and never gather over them.

When the end is finished, unthread the needle

and make a knot in the thread. If the

material to be gathered is wide and requires

several gathering threads, begin those where

the halves and quarters are marked. Begin

and end each time as directed.

Place a pin at the end of the gathers and also

before each new thread, with the point to the

top edge. Hold the thread in your left hand

and draw the gathers to the right with the right

hand, leaving them slightly loose. Twist the

cotton round the top and bottom of the pin

about three or four times. The work is now

ready for stroking.

Stroking. - Stroking is the placing of all the

gathers evenly side by side. Hold the work in

the left hand, the right side of the material

towards you, and begin at the left side and work

towards the right. It will be found easier to

pin the right-hand side of the work on to a lead

cushion (see fig. 16). Use a wool needle, as

this will not scratch the material. Hold the

Fig. 16.

needle in your right hand slantingly, the point

upwards. Raise each gather gently with the

point of the needle and stroke down into the

little ruck which lies between, mo\ang it gently

to the left. Hold the gathers firmly under your

left thumb until they are all stroked. Tlie top

part above the gathering threads should be

stroked in the same way.

Setting In. - ^Take the band or piece of material

into which the gatherings have to be set, di\-ide

it into halves and quarters and mark as on

the gathered part. Undo the gathering tlu-eads

from the pins. Place the folded edge of the

band exactly over the gathering thread and pin

together the halves and quarters respectively.

Loosen the gathers exactly to the size of the

band and fasten the gathering tlireads again to

the pins. Arrange the gathers evenly below

the band with the point of the needle, putting

in more pins if necessarj'^ and tack in position.

Hem neatly, taking up each of the gathers on

396

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the needle. When nil the gathers are set in

take out the piiis, thread each gatlu-riiig thread

and finish it off, passing it through to the

wrong side and making two or three double

stitches. Then turn over the work. Tack

down the wrong side of the band exactly

Fig. 17.

on the hemming stitches. Fell it, being very

careful that the stitches do not show through on

the right side.

When the band is stitched by hand it should

be stitched after the first side of gathers are set

in two or three tlireads above the gathers, and

the felling done afterwards. A thread might be

drawn previously where the stitching is to be

worked.

If the stitching is done by machine it should

be done tlirough the whole band after it has been

felled.

WHIPPING

Whipping is used principally for the gather-

ing up of lace frills or for frills naade of very

fine material such as muslin or cambric. It

is also used instead of hemming on the raw

edges of very fine frills. Tliese should bo cut

by the thread or torn across tlie selvedge. Tlio

width of the frill will depend upon the purpose

for which it is to be used : for ordinary under-

clothing it should be from an inch to two inches

deep. The length should bo twice that of the

hem or band to be trimmed, or oven longer if

the material of the frill is very fine, if the

frill is deep, or there are comers to be turned.

Make a hem as narrow as possible at the foot of

the frill ; or it may be hom-stitchod. If several

widths of material aro required for the frill, seam

them neatly together b< fore beginning. If the

frill is to be round as for a wrist-band, join the

ends Ijefore beginning to whip. Divide the frill

and the band on which it has to Ix) gathered

ir to halves or quarters accorfling to length.

Take a rather coarse cotton and a fresh noodloful

for each section of the frill. To whip the frill

hold it as for hemming the top. To start it

turn a very tiny hem down and work two or

three hemming stitches. Hold the material

between the thumb and forefinger of your left

hand, keep the forefinger quite still, lot the

frill rest on it, and rub the thumb up and down

so as to roll dovm the top raw edge, making a

very tight and very neat roll.

When you have rolled down an inch insert tho

needle at the back of the roll very close to it, the

point towards you slanting towards tho loft. The

stitches should be slanting on the wrong side and

straight on the right side (fig. 18). Put the needle

Fia. 18.

through one thickness only and never tlu-ough

the roll, or tho cotton would not draw easily.

The stitches must be very neat and regular, about

one-eighth inch apart. Whip the inch prepared,

and then roll another inch, and so on, drawing it

up slightly as you go along. When the frill is

whipped pin the halves, quarters, &c., on to the

band exactly as for setting in gathers, the top

right-hand side of the band against the top right

side of the frill, holding the wrong side of the

frill towards you. Seciu-e the end of the whipp*

ing thread of the frill by twisting it round a

pin as for gathering, and arrange the fulness

evenly.

To sew the frill on the band begin at the right-

hand side with two or tliroe seaming stitches,

then put the needle at the back, taking the

smallest possible amount of the band and bring

it out in front passing under the middle of each

little roll. Each seaming stitch must be exactly

on the whipping stitch of the roll (fig. 19). At

FIO. 19.

the end fasten off as in seaming. Finish off and

cut off the whipping cotton. Raise up the frill

on the right side and flatten the seam well with

the thumb-nail.

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

397

FANCY STITCHES

Herring-boning. - So called because it is sup-

posed to resemble the back-bone of a herring.

This stitch is used principally for flannel seams

(see p. 393) and for the seams of patches (see

p. 415). It is a good plan to practise it first

on a piece of canvas with coloured cotton or

wool. To herring-bone a flannel hem begin at

the left-hand side, hold the work as for hemming,

and work from left to right. Put the needle

under the fold close to the edge, bring it out on

the top, and make one double-stitch. Then from

the hole where the cotton comes out count four

threads down (or their equivalent) and four to

the right ; insert the needle in the fourth and

bring it out horizontally two threads to the left.

Then from the hole where the cotton comes out

count four tlireads up and four to the right, and

again insert the needle and bring it out horizon-

tally two threads to the left. The needle must

always be held horizontally, and each stitch con-

sist of two tlireads taken towards the left, which

shows a double row of small running stitches on

the other side. Finish off neatly. Keep the

cotton well^ behind the needle and do not allow

it to pass under the point. Tlie stitches must

lie smoothly without puckering the material. It

is not easy to count the threads in flannel, but

if the size of the stitches has been learnt on

canvas it will be easy to keep them regular with

a httle care and practice.

Feather and Coral Stitching. - ^Feather and

coral stitches are used to ornament both flannel

and cotton garments. They are often worked

in the centre of a narrow band, on both edges of

a wider one, along a hem, or between tucks. For

cotton goods use crochet cotton, coarse or fine.

Feather Stitching.

Coral Stitching.

according to the nature of the work. For

flannel use flax thread or flannel silk. Work

with a crewel needle.

The great point in both kinds of stitches is to

rnake them very regular and to keep the middle

rib on a straight line. As it is impossible to

count the threads, a Uttle practice is necessary to

make the stitches regular. When making the

stitches on the front of a garment always work

downwards, and if there are several hues of

feathering begin them all at the top, so that all

the stitches lie in the same direction.

Single Feather Stitch. - Take the threaded

needle and seciare the end of the cotton by making

two or tliree stitches in a seam at the back of

the work where they won't be seen, then slip the

needle through the front ready to begin the

stitches. Hold the cotton under the left thumb ;

insert the needle a httle distance to the right-

hand side a very Httle higher than the place where

the cotton comes out, slanting it to the left ;

bring it out a httle below the place it was brought

out before ; be very careful to pass the point of

the needle over the cotton held by the left

thumb. This makes a little " V " towards the

right caught at the foot.

Again hold the cotton under the left thumb,

turn the needle to the right-hand side this time,

and insert it as far again from the middle rib

as it was inserted before to the right ; slant it

towards the right, and bring it out in the middle

rib a httle below the preceding stitch, being

always careful to pass the point over the cotton

held by the left thumb. This makes a httle " V "

towards the left also caught at the foot.

Repeat this, making a slanting stitch towards

the right, then towards the left alternately,

until you have the length required.

To finish off pass the needle and cotton to the

wrong side close to the place it came out, being

careful to catch the loop, and cut off close to the

work. Be careful not to draw the cotton too

tightly or it will pucker the material ; it should

rather be left somewhat loose to allow for

shrinkage in the washing.

The Double Feather Stitch is so called because

it consists of two stitches worked one below the

other to the right, then two to the left of the

middle rib. It is very effective and less stiff in

appearance than single feather stitching.

The Treble Feather Stitch consists of three

stitches -o-orked one below the other, first to

the right and then to the left alternately ; it is

rather more elaborate than the other kinds of

feather stitching, but very pretty, especially

worked in fine stitches on the top of a chemise

or on the knee-band of drawers, &c. As the

middle rib in both double and treble feather

stitches curves somewhat right and left with

each group of little stitches, care must be taken

to make these curves very regular.

The Coral Stitch resembles feather stitch; in

fact, one is often mistaken for the other, although

they are worked in a different way.

Smgle Coral Stitch. - Use the same cotton,

silk, needle, &c., as for feather stitcliing.

Hold the needle straight down instead of slanting

it either to the right or to the left. Bring out

the needle to the front of the work and hold the

398

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

cotton \rith the left tliunib as before. Insert

the needle a little to the right exactly on a line

with the hole where it came out, and take a few

threads straight down on a vertical line. Pass

the point of the needle over the cotton held by

the left thumb.

Again liold the cotton under the left thumb and

insert the needle a httle to the left exactly on a

horizontal Une from where it came out ; take the

same number of tlu-eads straight down on a

vertical line and bring up the point of the needle

over the cotton held by the left thumb, and

repeat tliis working from right to the left until

the lengtli required is finished.

The Double Coral Stitch is worked in very much

the same way as single coral stitch ; only two

stitches are made towards the right, then two

towards the left, and so on. The needle is in-

serted a little more slantingly towards the left

and the right than in the single coral stitch.

Blanket Stitch. - The blanket stitch, also called

loop stitch, is a kind of button-hole stitch worked

on the ends of blankets to prevent their un-

ravelUng and to give them a more finished

appearance.

Turn do^vn the raw edge of the blanket a

Uttle way and tack it very flat with a needle and

cotton. A selvedge will not require to be turned

do-"-n. The stitch may be worked in bright red,

pale blue, or any pretty coloured wool.

There are several different patterns of blanket

stitch which can be varied according to taste. To

work the ordinary blanket stitch (fig. 20) begin at

and a qutu-tor of aia inch apart from each other

at the foot.

Other blanket stitches can be made by vary-

ing the length of the stitches and giving them

Fio. 20.

the left-hand comer and hold tho work with the

right sido uppermost. Bring the needle through

from the back to the front about half an inch

from tho edge or above the fold. Insert it again

a quarter of an inch to the right, holding it

vertically downwards, and slip the point over

tho wool. Tho needle and wool sho>ild be drawn

straight downwards, but not too tightly, and so

as to make a nico ridge of stitches along the

bottom. Again insert the needle one quarter of

an inch to the right of the previous stitch and

bring it vertically down through the loop, and

so on.

To turn comers, make three stitches (or five

if necessary) quite close to each other at the top.

Fio. 21.

different slopes, as in fig. 21. This is a little

more fanciful in appearance.

A Scallop Edge. - Scalloping may be used on

a hem or as an edging for flannel garments.

The stitch is generally worked on double

material, as at the edge of a hem or false hem,

but when used as a trimming only, as in a

flannel frill, single material is sufficient. The

scallops may be cut in cardboard (three or four

together), placed at the edge of the material and

traced lightly in pencil. A better and simpler

plan is to use a transfer pattern and iron it on to

the garment. Test a little piece of the transfer

on an odd piece of the material to see if the iron

is properly heated, and then be careful to pin

it in a straight line on the garment about a

quarter of an inch from the edge. The scallop-

ing stitch is made in the same way as the blanket

stitch, and should be worked with flax thread,

washing silk, or fine well-twisted wool.

To begin with, run along the two edges of the

scallops with ordinary embroidery cotton to out-

line the pattern. Thread a crewel needle with

the tliread or silk you have chosen ; make five

or six running stitches from right to left in the

first scallop on the loft to fasten in the end and

bring out the needle at the left-hand point.

Hold your tliread or silk down under the left

thumb ; put the needle in just above the top

row of tacking stitches, bring it out just below

the bottom row of tacking stitches with the point

above the thread. Draw the needle and thread

through downwards, and see that the knot rests

exactly at the foot of the scallop. Make the

next stitch close to the first in the same way.

The needle must be held perpendicularly with

the point towards you, and as the bottom part

of the scallop is wider than the top, the stitches

must slant very slightly to the left to begin with,

be straight in the middle, then slant very

slightly to the right. A nice improvement is to

work a spot in the centre of each scallop (fig. 22).

This pattern can be found in transfers, or it is

easy to mark a dot above each scallop and make

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

399

it the centre of a tiny ring. These spots are

worked in what is called satin stitch, sewing

across in straight stitches. Commence with a

small stitch at the side, increase towards the

Fig. 22.

middle, and then decrease to the end. Slip the

needle at the back through the stitches, make

a very small back-stitch and cut off.

Another way of working a narrow scallop is

to keep the top of the stitches in a straight Hne,

as in fig. 23, the length of the stitches being

graduated from very short at the corners to wide

Fig. 23,

in the middle. All the stitches should lie verti-

cally. If the scallop is wished thicker it may

be padded before the embroidery is commenced.

Make several chain stitches along the centre of

them, a single one at the ends and two or three

longer ones in the centre.

Hem-stitching. - Hem-stitching is used in

many cases instead of the ordinary hemming ;

it makes a very pretty trimming and is easily

learnt. It can be done on any material from

which the threads are easily drawn. Pocket-

handkerchiefs, sheets, tea-cloths, &c., are all

much prettier when finished with a hem-stitched

edge. The width of the hem varies according

to taste and the nature of the article being

worked upon.

Before beginning to hem-stitch see that the

edges of the material are perfectly straight.

When you have decided upon the width of the

hem, measure double that \Adth. from the edge of

the material, plus a Uttle more for turning in, and

draw out four threads as explained for stitching

(pp. 390-91). When the threads are drawn, lay

the hem very carefully and tack it exactly where

the first thread has been drawn out. In a

square article tack down the two opposite sides

first, then the other two sides.

A hem-stitch can be worked either from the

right or from the left-hand end of the hem. If

you begin at the right-hand end, insert the

needle under the fold and take two threads of

Fig. 24.

the material and shp the end of the cotton well

under the fold. Hold the needle in a horizontal

position, take up four of the loose tlireads on it,

and draw the cotton through. Then put the

needle again into the fold two threads up, holding

it slantingly, the point towards the left (fig. 25).

Again hold the needle horizontally, take four

threads, and so on.

Be careful to draw the cotton rather tightly

when holding the four threads so as to draw

them well together ; also do not pass over any

loose threads.

Be careful at the corners where the loose

threads are double to take eight threads on the

needle, i.e. four on the wrong and four on the

right side, and draw them well in so that the

stitches do not appear larger. Seam the edge,

and shp the needle tlirough in position to begin

the next hem.

When hem-stitching is worked from left to

right bring out the needle and cotton in the fold

Fig. 25.

two threads up, then hold the needle horizont-

ally and take up four of the loose threads to-

wards the right. Hold the cotton under the left

thumb, bring the needle back, and insert it in the

space of open threads and bring it through two

400

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

threads of the fold, holding it vertically, the

point up, and so on {fig. 24). If there are more

than four tlireads drawn, a second row of hem-

stitching may be worked at the other side of the

open space by turning the work upside down

(fig. 25).

FASTENINGS

To Sew on Buttons. - Pearl buttons are much

prettier for underlinen, but unfortunately they

cannot bear the pressure of the mangle or

wringer and are generally crushed under the

weight of the machine. It is better, therefore,

to sew linen buttons on all articles that undergo

frequent wasliing. Linen buttons should be of

the best quality or they will soon be crushed

out of shape.

Before sewiiig on any kind of button make a

back-stitch on the right side of the garment to

secure the cotton, as a knot is not permissible.

Buttons should alwaj^s be sewn on double

material, so, if necessary, strengthen the place

where the button has to come with a piece of

tape on the wrong side, or a Uttle square of the

same material neatly felled on the wrong side.

It is a mistake to take very thick cotton for

sewing on buttons, as it makes the beginnings

љ ў @

Pearl Buttons.

and fastenings off untidy, and the middle of the

button too bulky.

If the button has two holes in it slip the

needle in one of these, take the stitches through

from hole to hole and through the thickness of

the garment four to six times, then slip the

needle between the garment and the button

close to the middle, and " stem " the button, i.e.

wind the cotton round and round four or five

times, slip the needle to the back, make one or

two back-stitches, slip the needle through half

an inch of the thickness, and cut the cotton

close.

Buttons with four holes can be eewn in dif-

ferent ways, as shown in the above diagram.

Linen buttons without holes can also be sewn

on in a variety of styles as shown below.

(1) By working stitches in a small circle. In

order to get a perfect circle, the centre of the

@љ@

Linen Buttons.

button may be marked with the hollow end of a

small key or anything that will serve ^he pur-

pose. Rick round the circle with a needle to

mark the place of the stitches, then sew round

with small even stitches. The circle must be

small so that the button-hole can lie very flat over

the button. (2) The circle may have a cross in

the middle. (3) A star can be made in the

middle by working six or eight stitches all

meeting in the centre. (4) Or, again, a hori-

zontal bar of foiu" or five stitches worked over in

button-hole stitch like a loop. The last method

is a very strong and secvu-e way of putting on

a linen button.

It is very important that a button should bo

sewn on exactly in its proper position. If the

exact spot is not otherwise Bnarked, place the

button-hole side of the j.armont very evenly on

the top of the corresponding button side and

stick a pin tlirough the hole. Then slip the

button-hole carefully over the pin, put the pin

in more securely, and sew on the button in the

place indicated.

Button-holes. - It requires groat skill and

attention to make button-holes well. They

should be worked on double material. If the

material is single, strengthen it on the back with

a neatly felled oblong of the same material,

which should not be seen on the right side.

All button-holes are cut in the same way. A

pair of button-hole scissors may be used, although

they are not a necessity. The slit of the button-

hole should be a little longer than the diameter

of the button to allow it to pass through easily.

The best way to cut a button-hole is to make a

crease in the material at the place it is to be

made ; insert the point of the scissors on the

mark and cut very slowly and carefully the

length required. Try to keep by the thread

of the material, and be careful the scissors do

not slip.

Vse coarser cotton for button-holes than

for ordinary sewing. For flannel or woollen

materials use silk twist if possible ; it makes a

strong and pretty stitch.

Button-holes are made with two barred ends

when they are in front of a chemise, night-dress.

Button-holes.

shirt, &c., and with one round end and one

barred at the end of a band for a dress, &c. In

the latter case the round end comes against the

button. Sometimes the holes are made with

two round ends, but this is not so usual.

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

401

To work a button-hole some people begin by

making either a line of small running stitches

round it to prevent the edges from unravelling,

or making one or two long stitches the length

of the button-hole and working over these, but

a little experience in button-hole making will

render this preparation unnecessary. Sufficient

cotton must be taken to work from end to end,

as there must be no join in the sides of a button-

hole. The cotton may be joined at a barred end

but not at a round one.

To begin with, slip the needle between the

two thicknesses of material, bring it out at the

left-hand end of the button-hole four threads

down from the cut edge. Draw the cotton

through, leaving an end of an inch which can be

caught in with the stitches. Work from left

to right. Hold the opening of the button-hole

over the left forefinger, insert the needle at the

back and bring it half-way through to the front

and through the same hole as before. With the

thumb and forefinger of your right hand bring

the double cotton from the eye of the needle,

and pass it under the point from left to right ;

draw the needle out, pull the cotton upwards

away from you, and tighten the little knot or

loop which must lie exactly on the cut edge.

This forms what is called a purl edge. Work

the next stitch one or two threads to the right

and again four threads down, bring the thread

over the needle and repeat until you have

reached the end of the hole. To make a barred

end put the needle in at the bottom of the last

side stitch and " strand " the ends, i.e. put

two or three threads of cotton across to make

the foundation of the bar. As the button-hole

stitches are made four threads deep, you have

eight threads on the two sides, plus one in the

middle (the fifth) corresponding to the slit of

the button-hole. The bar consists then of nine

button-hole stitches, worked with the knots

meeting those of the sides. These nine button-

hole stitches must be worked through the two

thicknesses of material like the side stitches.

Then turn the work the opposite way, work the

second side like the first, and, if necessary, make

a bar at the other end.

To finish off insert the needle at the top in

the hole of the last stitch ; draw the cotton

through to the wrong side, weave along the

button-hole stitches, and cut the end close to the

work.

To make a round end the stitches must be

made in a semicircle close together, and radiat-

ing like the spokes of a wheel.

To Mend a Button-hole. - Cut off very carefully

all that is left of the knots in the centre ; draw

out any little threads that come out easily

without uru-avelling the material more than is

necessary. If many threads come out overcast

the button-hole with fine cotton, then work it

all over again with the same cotton or silk as was

first used. As a rule, it k better to remake the

barred ends ; the general appearance of the

button-hole will be neater.

Hooks and Eyes can be attached to garments

in different ways ; the most essential point is

to put them on very neatly and securely. The

positions will vary according to the make and

fashion of the dress ; the best way of sewing

them on is as follows : - Use button-hole twist

or cotton to match the colour of the material.

Find the position of the hook and make a

small stitch where it has to be put. Hold

the hook in position with your left thumb and

work round the two rings and through the

material with close blanket stitches and then

make several seaming stitches over the stem.

Finish off with a back-stitch close to the hook,

sUp the needle through the material without

showing it on the right side, and cut the cotton

off close.

To sew on the eye mark its position exactly

opposite the hook. Begin in the same way, and

work round the two rings with blanket stitches,

taking the stitches through the material. When

both rings are covered and fastened on the

material, blanket stitch the eye itself without

going through the material.

The object of so covering the hook and eye

with blanket stitches is to make them look neat

and also to prevent them from coming un-

fastened so easily.

When the rings of the hooks and eyes are to

be covered with Uning or other material, it is

Fig. 26.

riG. 27.

unnecessary to work them round with stitches.

In this case it suffices to fasten them on very

securely by making four or five stitches round

each ring and two or three along the stem as in

fig. 26. For the eye, make about four or five

stitches at the foot of each ring, one where the

two rings join and two or three at the sides.

Finish off as before.

Tlie hook is sometimes put with the tongue

against the material and the back uppermost, as

this is supposed to make a more secure fastening.

Work two or three close seam stitches at the

foot of each ring, two or three where the rings

are joined together, and fasten off as before

(fig. 28).

Little round rings are sometimes used instead

of eyes. These should be fastened to the

garment with four or five blanket stitches taken

through the material, and then the rest of the

ring is covered with blanket stitches.

Patent hooks are provided with little holes.

Sew them on by making three or four stitches

in each hole through at least two thicknesses of

the material. Then tlu-ee or four stitches quite

402

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

at tlie point round the back of the thinnest part

of the hook. Patent ej'ea are se^m on vrith

three or four stitches taken from ring to ring

Fig. 28.

Fig. 29.

and tlirough at least two thicknesses of material

(fig. 29).

Eyelet Holes are used as outlets for a draw-

string in an under-garment, in the neck of a

pinafore, or in the neck and sleeves of infants'

garments, &c. They are also used in dress-

making instead of eyes, in which case they should

be worked in silk, or, preferably, twist the colour

of the material. Eyelets made as an outlet for

a string in the neck of a garment should be made

an inch apart in front of the garment if the neck

is round. If divided in front or at the back,

one eyelet should be made on the upper side of

the garment half an inch from the left-side edge

through the single material only ; the other

eyelet should be made on the wrong side of the

garment half an inch from the right-side edge

and through the single material only. Or,

the string may be allowed to come out at the

right-hand side, tlirough the edge of the hem

or the casing, when only the one eyelet hole will

be required. \Vhen the place of the eyelet hole

has been determined, pierce a hole with a stil-

etto or with the end of a small pair of scissors.

Eyelet Hole.

Do this through one or two thicknesseo accord-

ing to the purpose of the eyelet holes. Slip tho

needle with cotton or silk under the first thick-

ness of material, and hide the end of the latter

by pushing it in with the point of the needle.

Then work from left to right over the raw edges

of the hole with very neat and close overcasting

stitches about four threads deep. When you

have worked all round, run the needle and cotton

through the stitches at the back and cut off

close to the work. Button-hole stitches can be

made instead of overcasting stitches, the Icnots

or loops being brought to the inside edge of the

eyelet.

A Loop can be made in conjunction with a

hook instead of an eye, or with a button instead

of a button-hole. When you have found the

Loop.

place of the loop, pass the needle and cotton or

silk througli the double material, work about

four stitclies or strands about one-quarter of

an inch long, then bind the strands together,

working from left to right with close blanket

stitches over the cotton or silk only. When

the loop is intended for a button, it is generally

put at the edge of the garment. Make the

strands loose enough to receive the button ; on

no account must they be too long.

TAPES, BINDING, ETC.

Tapes. - Tapes are made in both cotton or

hnen, the hnon being stronger than the cotton.

They are to be had in various widths, and the

size chosen depends upon the purpose for which

the tape is to be used. Tapes are used as strings

on aprons, cliildi-en's pinafores, and various

under-garments, &c., as loops for hanging towels,

kitchen cloths, &c., and also for strengthening

pm"poses.

Strings. - ^Theso must be sewn on perfectly

flat. Turn down about one-eighth of an inch at

one end of the string and make a second fold as

far from the first as the tape is wide, but turned

the other way. This second fold is to mark a

little square where the stitches should be worked

on the tape. Place the string on the edge of

the wrong side of the material with the narrow

fold downwards, and the second crease just

meeting the edge of the material. Pin the

string in position, fold it back from the edge

of the material and on a level with it. Hold

the string and material together very securely

between your left thumb and forefinger, and

seam the tape on to the material with very small

stitclies. Then turn back the string and fell

neatly the three other sides on to the material.

If the material is double, the stitches should not

show through.

Tlie free ends of strings should have a neat

one-eighth inch hem on the wrong side, or the

end can be made neat with blanket stitches

taken rather deeply to prevent the tape from

unravelling.

Another way of sewing on a string to a hemmed

end is to place the narrow fold of the string

two threads above the hem and work two neat

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

403

rows of stitching on the right side of the

material, one just above the hemming tlirough

the edge of the tape, and another at the edge

of the hem through the hem and the tape.

Fell the selvedge sides of the string without

showing the stitches through on the right side.

When tapes are sewn at the edge of a hem,

the first fold can be inserted under the hem in

its proper place and tacked along the hem. The

two selvedge sides of the string should be felled,

and the stitching on the fourth side may be

worked either on the edge of the hem on the right

side, or further down if the hem is deep and if

the edge is required to overlap the other side.

Loops. - To make a loop, measure the length

of tape required and fold it in two. Turn in the

raw edges and put one end in its place, either at

the edge of the hem or to make a square. Fell

round thjee sides (the two selvedges of the tape

and the foldod end), but do not finish off. Place

the other end of the loop on the right side of the

material and slip the needle through and fell

three sides of the tape on the right side exactly

on top of the stitches on the wrong side. Make

a row of stitching through both tapes just above

the edge of the material and finish off (fig. 30).

Another way is to sew the loop on the wrong

side of the material. Fold the tape in two,

Fia. 30.

Fig. 31.

crease well, and open it again. Place the two

ends side by side as in fig. 31, so as to form

a three-cornered point. Prepare and sew the

loops as before, either inserting them under the

hem or felling them above. Notice that as the

ends of the tape He side by side you must sew

them together when you have reached the

middle, cross neatly under these stitches when

you have come to the top and go on with the

felling. Stilch or seam both

tapes at the edge of the

material.

If the loop is sewn at the

corner of a cloth the ends aro

turned down once only, and

the loop placed so that the

edge of the turning down

should m.eet the hem (fig. 32).

The point of the corner must

be exactly at the joining of the

two loops. Fell and seam the loop as before.

Another method for a corner loop is to double

Fig. 32.

the tape obliquely and place the ends so that

they overlap each other. Place the raw edges

uppermost, meeting the edge of the cloth and

forming the basis of a triangle. Stitch firmly

Fig. 33.

Fig. 34.

across both, then turn over and stitch round

the corner (figs. 33 and 34).

Strengthening Tapes are used at the bottom

of front openings of chemises and night-dresses,

at the wrist openings of sleeves, and the hip

openings of children's knickers, &c., to prevent

them from getting torn. The strength and

width will depend upon the garment and material

on which it has to be sewn. To put on a

strengthening tape at the foot of the opening of

a chemise or night-dress cut a piece of tape one

to one and a half inches long, and make a fold

at the two raw ends. Place this at the bottom

of the opening on the wrong side of the garment

with the folds facing the material. Fell it

neatly along the four sides without showing the

stitches on the right side. For the wrist opening

of a shirt or for children's knickers turn down

a fold at the end of the tape, but on different

sides. Fold the tape obhquely in the middle ;

this will bring the narrow folds on the same

side. Place the tape on the wrong side of the

garment, the folds facing the material, -^rith the

obUque fold exactly over the end of the opening.

Pin in position, then tack, being very careful

to keep the end folds on the thread of the

material. Hem all round the edges of the tape.

Fig. 35.

and at the edge of the opening work a few

button-hole stitches for the sake of strength.

If the material is double be very careful not to

show the stitches on the right side (fig. 35).

Binding. - Binding is a process used to

strengthen the edges of material by sewing a

covering over them. Tliis covering may consist

404

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

of a strip of the material, or of tape, braid,

ribbon, or a special binding. Flannel garments

are frequently bound at the edges instead of

being hemmed, tape, ribbon or Prussian binding

being used. In tailoring the seams of coats and

jackets are very often covered with a binding.

In dressmaking, too, the raw edges of the

material are often finislied with Prussian binding

or ribbon instead of being overcast. Binding

can also be used instead of overcasting to

strengthen the eurmholes of sliirts, blouses,

night-dresses, and such-like, when a piece of

thin material cut on the cross shovJd be used.

To sew on braid or ribbon binding fold it

lengthways, crease it well along the middle,

lay it over the edge of the material to be bound,

one half to the right side and one half to the

wrong, and tack it carefully in position with a

needle and cotton. Hem first the right side,

and then the wrong side. Some people can

manage to hem only once on the right side

and through the three thicknesses, but it is

not to be recommended, sis it is very difficult

to make the stitches neat and to bring them

through regularly. This can, however, be

done with a sewing machine. To bind with

the same material as the garment, cut and

prepare the strips as for piping (see p. 394).

The strips of material may be cut on the straight

to bind a part that is on the straight also, but

never to bind a part that is on the cross or

slanting in the least, as it would be sxire to

pucker. They should be from a half to one inch

in width, according to the thickness of the

material to be covered. Fold them lengthways

like the braid and make a crease ; then for the

first part, proceed as for putting on a false hem

(see p. 393). Place the edge of the binding

against the edge of the material on the right

side and run it along about a quarter of an inch

from the edge. Then turn it upwards, and

flatten the seam well ; fold it down at the crease,

and fell it neatly on the wrong side. ^Vhen

there is a comer to bind round, make a small

pleat in the binding on each side of the material

at right angles with it ; hem the fold of the

binding in a neat diagonal line going from the

inside angle of the hem to the outside angle of

the material ; slip the needle under the binding

back to the hem, and continue hemming. Do

the same at all the comers and on both sides of

the work.

To Braid a Skirt. - Before using skirt braid

it is a good precaution to soak it in cold water

and allow it to shrink. This often prevents the

foot of the skirt from puckering. It you do not

care to do this, bo careful to leave the braid

looser than the material, as it is sure to draw in

when moistened by rain or the dampness of the

roads. If the ordinary flat braid is being used,

fold it double and run or hem it on the wrong

side of the skirt, placing it so that it shows

below the edge of the skirt and so serves as a

protection to the material. The stitches should

be taken through both selvedges of the braid

and one thickness of the material, but should

not show on the right side. Or, instead of

doubling the braid, it may be sewn singly and

flat on the skirt, a small edge of one selvedge

being allowed to show below the foot of the

skirt. In this case two rows of sewing will

be necessary - a row of hemming along the

lower selvedge and a row of running worked

through the braid and one thickness of the

material close to the edge of the skirt. None

of the stitches must be allowed to show on the

right side. Brush braids must always be sewn

on by the latter method.

PLEATING

To pleat material is to make it lie in flat,

smooth folds, more or less deep according to the

fulness required.

Pleating is extensively used in dressmaking

at the top of skirts and in the arranging of frills

and flounces. It is also used at the top of petti-

coats, aprons, overalls, children's frocks, &c. It

is more suitable than gathering for thick material

as it is less bulky.

Pleats like tucks should be arranged on the

right side of the material and they must be very

accurately measured. They are generally held

in position by a band or yoke, or by a row of

stitching as in a frill or flounce.

There are two kinds of pleating : - Kilt-

pleating and box-pleating.

Kilt-Pleating. - For this kind of pleating allow

material twice or three times the length of the

band or piece of material to which it is to be

attached.

When pleating for a flounce, the folds should

all lie in one direction and be of equal size.

Eilt- Pleating.

A space may be left between the pleats if

there is not sufficient fulness to allow of their

being close together, but if, on the other hand,

there is ample material, it may be necessary

to make them overlap slightly. Tlie size of

the pleat will also depend upon the amount of

material at disposal and the fulness required.

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

405

When once the size, &c., has been carefully

gauged it is a good plan to make a measure by

notching a card as in tuck-making, and to use

that as a guide for the other pleats and spaces

between them.

Tack the pleats as they are made about one-

quarter of an inch from the upper edge, or if

there are only a few they may be held in position

with pins. Be careful to keep the material lying

straight, and see that the three edges at the top

are perfectly level.

In the making up of a garment pleats are

often made to lie in opposite directions. They

should always lie in the direction in which most

fulness is needed, generally away from the

front. Here, again, careful measurement is

necessary in order to make both sides alike.

Sometimes a pleat is stitched down part of its

length so as to make it Me very flat, as in a

kilted skirt.

When the pleats have to be put between the

folds of a band, as on the top of an apron, make

and place the band in the following way : -

Fold in the edges of the band and join the

ends neatly or leave them open as required.

Mark the centre and pin it exactly to the

centre of the garment. Tack it along in position

through the one side, only making the folded

edge of the band he on the top of the tacking

threads of the pleats. Then hem the band to

the material, being particular to take all the

stitches through all the thicknesses of the

pleats.

When the right rAde is finished, turn over and

tack the band down on ohe wrong side exactly

on the top of the hemming stitches already

made. Hem down without letting the stitches

show through to the right side.

Some people prefer to stitch the band. If

this is done by hand, stitch the right side only

instead of hemming it two or three threads

above the folded edge of the band (a thread

might be drawn previously for this stitching),

then hem down on the wrong side as above.

Box-Pleating. - This differs from kilt-pleating

in that each alternate fold is made in a different

direction. The width of the pleats may vary

according to the' purpose for which they are

Box-Pleating.

Or the band may be stitched on by machine

through the two thicknesses at once. Careful

tacking will be required for thi? to prevent the

work being twisted.

Double Box- Pleating.

used and the amount of material at disposal, but

each couple must be exactly alike and careful

measurement is again necessary.

Sometimes a double and even a treble box-

pleat is made by laying one or more folds on the

top of each other, first to one side and then to

the other. Each upper fold should be slightly

narrower than the one below it. A double box-

pleat may be used in a very full flounce, when

the pleats may be stitched half an inch from

the top and the edge allowed to rise, the top

being pre%'iously ended with a very narrow hero

or some narrow trimming.

MARKING

In household hnen the marking should be

placed where it is easily seen when the article is

folded, generally in the left-hand corner, unless

it is embroidery, when the letter may be placed in

a more conspicuous position.

Body linen is marked very much according

to fasliion and the style of the garment. If it

is done by embroidery it should be placed where

it can be seen on the front below the opening or

trimming, or near the left shoulder, but if the

marking is done in ink or with Cash's lettering,

it should be in a less conspicuous spot, such as

the inside of a band or the wrong side of a hem.

Stockings should be meirked on the inside of

the hem at the top or below the hem on the right

side if done by hand.

There are several different ways of marking,

as for instance : -

(1) IMarking with ink.

(2) Marking with Cash's or other embroidered

imtials, monograms and names, or

(3) Marking by hand with a needle and

tliread.

(1) Marking with Ink is very suitable for

collars and cuffs, also where there are large

supplies of household linen, but it sliould not

be employed for dainty ai-ticles (see p. 265).

406

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

(2) Marking with Cash's Lettering.- These can

now bo bought in many cUfferent designs and

colouring, and special names can bo ordered at

so much per dozen (see p. 265). To sow them

on, turn in the raw edges very evenly, tack m

position, and then hem round very neatly.

Letters and monograms embroidered on fine

cambric or muslin can also be bought separately.

The price will vary according to the quality and

design. Some of them are most elaborate and

very decorative, and, if neatly placed, will have

day there does not seem to be so much time

for work of tliis kind, and once the stitch is

learnt the letters themselves can very easily bo

copied from a printed design (see illustration).

Cross stitch consists of two oblique stitches

placed one on the top of the other and crossed in

the middle (fig. 36). It is most easily worked on

a material in which the threads can be counted.

If from the nature of the texture this is im-

possible, a piece of canvas should be tacked

evenly on the top of the material where the

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Cross-stitch Letters and Figures.

the appearance of being embroidered on the

material itself.

They should either bo hemmed on with very

fine, almost invisible stitches, or button-holod

round with fine sowing cotton.

(3) Marking by Hand.- For this many different

stitches can be used from simple to very ela-

borate ones.

Cross Stitch is one of the simplest. Many

years ago it was the general custom to mark

personal linen, clothes, and napcry with cross

stitch; and we have all seen most elaborate

canvas samplers with letters of the alphabet,

figures, and the quaintest ornaments and

mottoes, worked by our mothers and grand-

mothers when they were girls. In the present

marking is required and the stitches worked

over that. The canvas must bo more or less

fine, according to the kind of material, and

sufficiently largo to take in all the letters.

Blankets, for instance, would require rather a

coarse canvas in order to make tho letters look

large and handsome, while table-linen would

look bettor with a finer lettering. The tlireads

of tho canvas must bo drawn out when the work

is finished. Care must be taken when sewing

that none of the stitches are taken through the

threads of tho canvas, but only through the

holes. An expert sewer might be able to mark

on any material without the aid of the canvas

for a guide, but it is not so easy for an amateur.

Tho stitches are generally made over two

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

407

threads of the material, and care must be

taken that all the stitches lie in the same

direction. If larger letters are required the

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stitches must be worked over three or fovir

threads accordingly.

To fasten off pass the needle straight through

to the back and weave it tlirough about half-a-

dozen stitches. The back of the work must be

kept as tidy-looking as possible.

Ingrain cotton (blue or red) or wliite em-

broidery cotton is the best to use for marking

cotton or linen articles and a pretty coloured

wool for marking blankets.

The Leviathan Stitch. - This is a httle more

elaborate than the simple cross stitch, as it has

the addition of a vertical cross in the middle

(fig. 37). It is most suitable for large letters

or for initials.

The Eyelet Stitch. - This is another fancy

stitch also used for a large style of marking. It

Fig. 37.

Fig. 88.

consists of eight stitches worked over two or

three threads all radiating from one central

hole (fig. 38).

Back Stitch and Chain Stitch are also very useful

for marking, especially such articles as kitchen

towels, ordinary sheets, &c., and anything that

requires a whole word and several figures. Tlie

lettering can first be traced in pencil and then

worked over in one or the other stitch.

Chain stitch is worked like feather or coral

stitch (see p. 397), only it is done on a single

line following a pattern (fig. 39). Bring out

the needle at the beginning of the letter, and

hold the cotton down with your left thumb.

Put in the needlo whero it came out and bring

it along the pattern the length of two or three

tlireads ; be very careful to bring it out above

the cotton. Put the needle in again where it

Fig. 39

came out last, bring it out the same length as

before above the cotton, and so on, following the

traced hne so as to form the letter required.

Back-stitch may be used in the same way.

Tlaese stitches are very useful for marking

twill or any material where the threads cannot

be counted.

MENDING

Mending, like sewing, is an art and one to which

no woman should be a stranger. Though it is

often considered a thankless task to have to

repair an old garment damaged by accident or

by use, it is none the less a necessary one, and

a good piece of mending should be as worthy

of exhibition as a prettily made new garment.

The ability to mend skilfully and neatly is a

gift every woman should covet.

A good mender means a good sewer and one

who possesses plenty of common sense. Althovigh

numerous directions and rules can be given for

the various methods of patcliing and darning,

it requires some knowledge and skill to apply

these - to know when it is better to put in a

patch, or when a darn would be preferable;

also how to make a darn that will be durable

and at the same time not conspicuous, and,

finally, to get the longest life possible out of each

article that comes under our care.

As soon as a girl is old enough she ought to

be taught to do her own mending and sometimes

a httle of the household mending as well. This

more than anjiihing else will teach her to be

neat and orderly and to be careful with her

clothes.

All holes and rents should be mended before

the clothes are sent to the washing, and if it is

not convenient to do this thoroughly they should

at least be drawn together with needlo and

cotton to prevent the friction of washing mak-

ing them worse. Table-linen must always be

mended before washing, as mending it after-

408

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

wards would crush and spoil its appearance.

The same applies to anything that is starched.

Wlien such tilings as buttons and tapes are

wanting it is best to sew these on after washing.

A special supply of mending materials should

be kept in a box in the linen cupboard, in a

drawer, or in any other convenient place. It

might contain pieces of Unen, pieces of cotton,

damask, flannel, woven material, &c., and any

special material similar to the garments or house-

hold linen in use. It is a good precaution when

bu}nng clothes, especially clothes for growing

children, to getwa httle extra material for altering

and mending purposes.

Tliere should also be a large portable mend-

ing-basket which would have to be prepared

each week by the one who has the rosponsibiUty

of the household mending. It should contain

only the articles to be mended and the necessary

materials for mending taken from the general

supply.

A deirning bag for the household would also

be found a convenience. It might contain all

the stockings requiring mending and be pro-

vided with a pocket to contain the special darn-

ing wool required.

DARNING

Stockings

To Mend Stockings. - Stockings should be

mended very carefully in order to make them

last as long as possible. There are different

ways of mending them, and the style adopted

must depend upon the degree of wear and the

texture and thickness of the material.

The mending must be done in wool, cotton, or

silk, according to the kind of stockings, and it

must match them exactly in colour. The thick-

ness of thread to be used will depend upon the

land of mending to be done. For strengthening

purposes it is better to take it rather thinner

than the thread of the stocking itself, but when

there is a hole it may bo of the same thickness.

Mending is usually done on the wrong side of

stockings, except in cases where the feet are very

tender, when it is bettor to darn them (^n the

right side.

Strengthening a Thin Place. - If there is a worn

or thin place in a stocking without any actual

hole, it should bo strengtlioned to prevent it

wearing further. Turn the stocking on the

wrong side and stretch the piece to be darned

over the loft hand, over a piece of smooth card-

board, or over a darner or wooden egg sold for

the purpose. The stocking must not be stretched

too tightly or the darn will have a bulged-out

appeturance when finished.

Commence about an inch to the right of the

worn piece, and insert the neetlle with the point

pointing upwards and the thumb on the top.

Take up one loop or thread and miss one alter-

nately until you have aa many stitches as you

can hold on the needle. Then draw the noodle

through, leaving an inch of thread at the end.

Continue in this way until you have reached the

top of the weak place. Now

turn your hand and hold the

needle vertically with the point

turned downwards this time and

the thumb underneath. Work

downwards, taking up the

stitches which were missed in

the first row and missing those

wliich were taken up. A loop

of the thread must be left at

the end of each row to prevent

the work dragging. For the

first four or five rows make each row a stitch

longer than the preceding one, then make the

rows the same length until the thin place ia

covered, when the rows may be decreased in

length to correspond with the other side. This

prevents all the strain coming upon one thread

of the woven material. If a new tliread is

required take it at the beginning of a row.

Leave one inch ends while you are working.

iDanier.

-O'.'i'.'ln

(1 I I I I I I'

I'll

I I 1 1 I in

•'•'•'•I'"

Fig. 40.

and when the darn is finished these may be cut

off to quarter of an inch (fig. 40).

Note. - If the material is fine, as in n woven

stocking, tliree or four threads or their equivalent

can be missed and taken up alternately instead

of one.

Strengthening New Stockings. - Some people

darn over the heels of stockings when they are

new in order to make them last longer. This

is especially necessary in the case of children's

stockings and boys' stockings in particular -

when the knees might also be strengthened with

advantage.

This strengthening dam should be done with

wool a little thinner than that of the stockings.

Use a long thin needle. Run lengthways over

the stocking web, taking up one threeid and

leaving three. In the next row turn and take

up the centre thread of those you missed and

miss the three next and so on, always taking one

and missing tlu-ee alternately throughout the

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

409

whole process. Leave a loop at the end of each

row. Work pretty loosely so that the stocking

does not pucker.

Note. - In fine stockings take up and leave

more threads in proportion.

To Darn a Hole - Ordinary Method. - First

prepare the hole. If it is a fine webbed stocking,

pick or cut away carefully any rough frayed-out

pieces, but not more than is necessary, as the

smooth threads that are left help to strengthen

the darn. With a coarser make or hand-knitted

stocking pick out carefully the loose ends of

wool and weave the longer ones in with a darning

needle.

Turn the stocking on the wrong side and

stretch the hole over the left hand or over a

stocking-darner. A wooden or china egg is

useful if the hole is in the toe or the heel of the

stocking, but elsewhere it is inclined to make

the darn b\ilge out.

A considerable portion of the material round

the edge of the hole should be darned in order to

strengthen it, so commence at. the right-hand

side a little distance from the edge of the hole.

Some prefer to commence at the left-hand

side and to darn from left to right, but this is a

matter of taste. Commence in the same way

and make the same stitch as for the strengthen-

ing darn, increasing the length of the rows vmtil

the hole is reached, when they may be all alike.

The hole itself must be covered with straight

strands of the thread and the darning stitches

extended a little way above and below. Then

continue the strengthening; darn beyond the

hole as on the first sidj. Be sure to leave loops

of the thread at the end of each row, other-

wise when the stocking is washed the darn will

Fig. 41.

shrink and pucker. These first rows are called

the warp rows, as they run the lengthways of

the stocking.

Turn tlie work sideways so that the top and

bottom of the hole become the sides and begin

what is called the weft rows, those which run

across the thread of the material. Commence

at the lower right-hand corner of the darn and

at the same distance from the edge of the hole

as the warp rows were commenced.

Point the needle upwards and take up and

miss alternately the stitches of the waxp rows

and continue thus until the other side of the

darn is reached. When crossing the hole, the

darn should form a lattice -work of threads and

the darning must be carried as far to the right of

the hole as it was to the left, and the rows

decreased in length in a similar manner.

If the stockings are very fine two or three

threads may be missed and taken up instead

of one, only be very careful to sUp the needle

through any loose stitch at the top or at the

bottom of the hole.

These darns may be made square if preferred,

but it is not such a good plan, as the whole strain

rests on one thread of the material (fig. 41).

If the hole is large it is a good plan to lace it

across with a few threads of fine cotton or wool

before commencing the darn. This will hold it

together and keep it in shape.

A " Jacob's Ladder." - So called when a stitch

breaks and drops down row after row until a

ladder of threads is formed. This is easily

mended if taken in time, but it rapidly extends

and becomes very unsightly if neglected. If it

occurs in a fine stocking, turn it on the wrong

side and darn up and down the length of the

material over the weak place and a little distance

to each side. Be careful to catch up the dropped

stitch or stitches and thus prevent them from

running down further. Care, too, must be taken

not to drag the threads, and loops must be left

at the ends of the rows.

In hand or machine-knitted stockings of a

coarser make the dropped stitch may often be

taken up with a crochet hook and worked up

each strand of wool, or steps of the ladder, as it

were, in turn. The crochet hook is inserted in

the bottom loop and the first bar is drawn through

it, and so on with all the bars in tiu-n. When at

the top, fasten off securely with a darning

needle. If several loops have run down, pick

up each one in turn from right to left.

New Pieces in Stockings. - A good knitter will

cut the worn-out heels and toes and even the

whole feet from hand-knit stockings and knit

new ones in. She can even knit pieces on the

legs and seam them neatly in place.

In worn stockings, too, a good mender will be

able to put patches cut from another stocking

that is otherwise worn out. To do this, cut

the sides of the hole even to a thread and pick

out the ends of tliread that are left. Then

ravel out the top and bottom of the space until

you have a row of loops strong enough to support

a join. Next take a needle and fine soft cotton

the colour of the stocking, and button-hole the

sides of the hole very closely. Now cut a piece

of webbing for the patch, making it quite even

with the thread and a little longer than the hole

into which it is to be fitted. This extra length

allows for any drawing up in the fixing, and, if

superfluous, can easily be unravelled to fit the

410

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

space at the last. Neatly button-holo the sides

of the patch \vith the same cotton as was used

for the stocking, and then graft it in at the top

(Grafting, see below). Now turn the stocking on

the wrong side and overseani the edges together

by the upper edges of the button-hole stitch.

Turn the stocking again to the right side, ravel

out the end of the patch until it fits the hole

exactly and graft it in. Care must be taken to

make the seams very soft and flat.

SPECIAL DARNING

Swiss Darning. - This special darning can only

be done on articles of stocking-web tissue, either

hand-knitted or woven - such as boys' stockings,

golfing stockings, jerseys, &c. It is another

method of thickening and strengthening any

part that is thin. The stitch is worked on the

right side of the material and, when well done,

the direction of the stitches of the material

is so carefully followed that the darn itself is

scarcely seen. The wool used must be of

exactly the same texture and colovir as the

article to be mended.

The piece to be mended should be lightly

tacked on to a piece of cardboard to keep it in

shape and secure. There must be no straining

of the material.

If the webbing of the material is examined it

will be seen that the stitches slant alternately

upwards and downwards, and that they form

ribs on the right side and loops on the wrong.

The darning stitches must bo worked in hori-

zontal rows from right to left. Commence at

the top right-hand side of the thin piece to be

darned, and bring the needle out from behind

between two of the stitches which slant upwards.

Then insert the needle in a slanting direction

upwards, pass it horizontally under the rib to

the left and draw it out. Put it in again at the

place where the first stitch was started, pass it

under the next rib as before, and repeat in turn

to the other end of the thin place. Now invert

the work and make another row in the same way,

covering the stitches that slant downwards tliis

time, and repeat this working backwards and

forwards until you have darned as much as is

necessary. This is not a difficult kind of darning,

and at the same time it is very satisfactory and

effective.

Grafting. - Grafting is very useful in repairing

socks, stockings, vests, Jerseys, and similar gar-

ments of a material that is very regularly and

not too finely woven. It is a very simple and

neat method of fixing new feet or tops on

children's stockings.

Ravel out the wool until the loops of both

edges to be joined are quite whole and distinct.

Then take a needle and wool exactly the same

as that of the garment, match the loops on the

right-hand side of the pieces to be joined and

make a fastening. Lay the work over the

fingers as for hemming, taking care that the

loops of the two edges are exactly opposite each

other. Insert the needle horizontally tlirough

two loops of the upper edge and draw out the

tliread. Next insert it one loop back on the

under edge and bring it out one loop forward.

Continue thus, taking alternately two loops at

the top and two at the bottom until the end

of the join is reached. If tliis is well done the

seam should be almost invisible.

Stocking- Web Tissue. - Like Swiss darning,

this is used for mending articles of thick stock-

ing-web tissue either hand-knit or woven. It

is really the weaving in of a new piece to the

material to fill up a hole, and is preferable to

the ordinary darn, as it is less noticeable.

Tlie same stitch is used as in Swiss darning,

only in the stocking-web darn a foundation com-

posed of strands of cotton must be made on

which to work.

This kind of darn is always worked on the

right side of the material, and wool exactly the

same as that of the garment must be used.

First prepare the hole by unravelling the

loose ends of wool until there is an even row of

loops top and bottom. Weave in the longer ends

with a darning needle on the wrong side. Turn

back the worn edges on tlie sides, leaving half a

rib on each side of the hole at the top. Then

tack a piece of cardboard at the back of the

hole and under the place to be darned. Be

careful neither to over-stretch nor contract the

hole, but to keep it lying perfectly flat. The

webbing, too, must be perfectly vertical so that

the corresponding loops at the top and bottom

of the hole are exactly opposite each other.

When the hole is arranged take a needle and

coloured sewing cotton and connect the loops

top and bottom, as in fig. 42, and in the following

Fro. 42.

manner : - ^Make a knot and pass the needle

tlirough the card and first loop at the bottom

right-hand corner of the hole. Pass it through

the half and the next loop at the top, then back

through first loop at the bottom, taking the next

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

411

one also on the needle. Now pass it tlirough

the two next loops at the top, and continue

in this way, taking alternate loops top and

bottom until the loops are all picked up. Then

pass the needle through the half loop at the edge

of the hole and the card and fasten off.

Care must be taken to make the strands just

the size of the hole. The strands will appear

as a double row of threads, and the Swiss darn

is worked on these.

Take a needle with the darning wool, slip it

under the work and fasten it on at the right-

hand bottom corner about two or three stitches

from the edge of the hole. Swiss darn over

these two or three stitches. Then put the needle

tlii'ough the first loop of the hole and draw it

out. Pass it under the two cotton tlireads

coming out of that loop and then back into the

middle of the same loop. Now take up the

next loop to the left and draw the needle out

and repeat until the other side of the hole is

reached (fig. 42). Swiss darn over two or three

stitches in the webbing as on right-hand side.

Next invert the work and work another row in

the same way, and work backwards and forwards

until the hole is filled up (fig. 43). Sometimes it

may be necessary to pusli the stitches into place

with the point of the needle, as they must he

in even horizontal rows. Join the new piece

of webbing just made to the loops at the other

side of the hole by grafting stitches (see p. 410).

When finished, cut and draw out the foundation

threads very carefully and remove the card.

DARNING OF LINEN OR COTTON MATERIAL

Thin Places. - To darn thin places, ravelhngs

of the same material should be used when

practicable. The darn can then be made almost

imperceptible. If not, use cotton or tliread as

similar to the material as possible. Use long

and thin needles for this kind of work.

Turn the work on the wrong side. Take up

and leave one, two, three, c four threads accord-

ing to the thickness of the material. Work

the first set of Unes along the selvedge way of

the material rather close to each other and half

an inch beyond the thin place on all sides.

Alternate the stitches and leave loops as in the

other darns. If the place is very thin, or if

there is a hole in the middle, reverse the work

when the first side is finished and cross it.

When crossing take up the mending cotton only.

Take up one thread and leave one, and so on

FlQ. 44.

(fig. 44). Alternate in the next row : continue

as far as necessary. Finish off as before.

This darn may also be made diamond-shaped

or with a waved edge, which prevents all the

strain coming on one tliread of the material.

Cross-cut Darns. - A cross-cut tear is so called

because it is made across the thread of the

material. It may occur in table-cloths and

doyleys that have been cut witii a knife or in

other linen cut by laiindry machinery.

To mend this kind of hole begin by trimming

off the ragged edges of the cut, then prevent

the cut from opening by drawing it together

on the wrong side with a few stitches. Tliese

must be made rather loosely with very fine

sewing cotton. For darning take ravellings of

the material or proper darning cotton. Measure

half an inch at both ends of the length of the

cut, and make two parallel creases on the

I ! • . I

Fro. 45.

thread of the material. Then make two

creases perpendicular to these and tliis will

give a square holding the cut diagonally in

the middle (fig. 46).

Put in the needle at the comer No. 1 of this

412

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

square and work downwards, taking up two

threads and missing two until you reach tho

corner No. 2. Count the number of stitches

already made and continue in tlio same Uno,

making the same number of stitclies again.

For instance, if you have seven stitches from

1 to 2, make seven stitches beyond, and this

finislies the first Une.

Then count two tlireads to the right and two

upwards and begin the second hne there. All

the lines must laave tho same number of stitches,

and as this row is one stitch shorter at the

bottom it must be one stitch longer at tho top.

Tho stitches must be alternated as in other

darning, and a small loop must be loft at the

ends.

When you reach the slit the stitches of

each row must be taken under it so as to keep

the raw edges on the wrong side. This may

make some of the stitches uneven, but it must

be done as neatly as possible.

When you have reached the corner No. 3, cut

off the darning thread. The darn will be in

the shape of a rhomboid (fig. 45). Turn the work

sidewaj^. Begin again at No. 1, work to 4, and

continue on ; double the number of stitches.

This line and the following must have the same

number of stitches as those of the first rhomboid.

Commence one stitch further up and increase

one each row so as to make a rhomboid as

before.

In working the second rhomboid, when you

reach the square tho stitches should meet those

of the first ro\vs of darning and form neat Uttle

Vs or steps. When the darn is finished, care-

fully remove the tacking stitches.

Unless the tear is quite small it is a good plan

to tewk a piece of ceirdboard at the back before

beginning to darn.

Hedge-Tear Dam. - The hedge-tear darn is

used to mend triangular tears often caused by

the material catching on a nail or hedge.

As in other darns, take ravellings of the

material if possible ; if not, what resembles

the material most in make and shade. Cut off

any loose threads round tho tear and draw the

edges together with very fine sewing cotton.

Begin on the left-hand side about three-eighths

of an inch from the end of tho tear, take

up two threads and leave two, making

stitches above and below the tears. Begin the

second row two threads to the right and

two threads above tho first row, taking up

the threads that have been left and leaving

each two threads corresponding to tho spaces.

All the rows must be exactly tho same length.

Leave one-eighth inch loops as in other dams.

When passing the hole, keep the edges of the

tear on the wrong side as much as possible.

When you have reached the comer of the

tear, continue working to tlio right as much as

half the width of one side of the tear. Cut off

the thread and turn the work sideways so that

tho undarned end of tho tear Ues at the left.

Commence darning at the left and three-eightlis

of an inch away from the end of tho tear on tho

other side. Work towards tho right, making

n.p.p.p.p.no.nnnnn

- 1

bbbi

Fig. 47.

rows exactly the same length, and with the same

number of stitches as in the first piece of darning.

Half-way along the tear you will meet the

stitches of the side already darned, and this

should form a square of Vs or httle steps as in

the cross-cut darn. All the stitches must show

through neatly on the right side (fig. 48).

When finished, remove the tacking stitches.

bUU I I

Fia. 4S.

The weakest part of the tear will now be

strengthened with tho crossed row of stitches.

This darn also may be worked over a piece of

cardboard if it is found easier.

PATCHING

Patches are used to cover holes or a worn or

torn piece of material, and they are a means of

making household goods last much longer than

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

413

they otherwise would do. They are as a rule

preferable to darns as they are less conspicuous.

A good housekeeper will have at hand plenty

of material at different stages of wear for all

patching purposes. The patch should be of

the same strength as the material to be mended :

it is therefore unwise to employ a new piece of

the same material. If a new piece of material

must be used, it sTiould be thinner in texture

than that of the article to be patched. If it is

calico, print, or anything of a stiffish nature, it

should be washed before being used, to make it

softer.

Patches may be of any size and any shape

required, but square and oblong ones are the

most generally used. Circular and triangular

patches are sometimes worked on flannel or

woven material, but, if possible, they should be

avoided unless they can be quite hidden. The

patch must at all times be cut large enough to

well cover the hole or worn part, and a little

extra allowed for turnings.

The chief points to attend to in putting in

a patch are - first, to fix it well, and, secondly,

to make the corners he very flat and without

wrinkles. This once mastered, with care and

perseverance the work is fairly easy as the

stitches are all of the simplest.

The thread of the patch must in all cases lie

with the thread of the material, and the sewing

also must be worked by a thread.

There are several different kinds of calico and

linen patches, i.e. -

(1) Seam and fell patch.

(2) A patch hemm. d on both sides.

(3) A run and fell patch.

(4) A shaped patch.

(1) Seam and Fell Patch. - Cut the patch large

enough to cover the hole and the thin part of

the material surrounding it, plus an extra inch

on each side. Be careful to cut it very evenly

and with the threads running in the same

direction as the material on which it is to be

laid. Commence by turning down a narrow

fold all round the patch on the right side, the

selvedge side first and then the other two.

Mark the fold by the threads of the material and

see that the corners are perfectly straight.

Place the patch on the wrong side of the garment

with the folds facing it ; see that the warp and

woof of both materials lie in the same direction

and that the hole comes in the middle of the

patch. Pin the four corners carefully in position,

then tack and hem round very neatly, beginning

in the middle of one of the sides, and making

a stitch exactly at each corner. When finished

take out the tacking stitches and turn the work

over to the right side. Shp the scissors in the

hole and cut diagonally to within one-third of

an inch of each corner. Cut away the worn-

out part very evenly to a thread, leaving one-

third of an inch of edging all round. Then

turn in the raw edges very evenly with the aid

of a needle, snipping them in the corners to the

depth of one-eighth of an inch to prevent any

puckering. Then tack round and see that all

lies flat and smooth.

Fold back the garment so that the fold and

the patch form a double edge. Overseam very

neatly, beginning with the middle of one of the

sides, and be particular to make a stitch exactly

at each corner. When finished remove the

Fig. 49.

tacking threads and flatten the work well

(fig. 49).

The first side may also be seamed instead of

hemmed.

A patch may be laid on the right side of the

material instead of on the wrong ; this is a

matter of individual choice.

(2) A Patch Hemmed on both Sides is more

quickly made and is often used for old things

where a large patch is necessary. Cut and

prepare the patch as before, and lay it either

on the right or wrong side of the material as is

most convenient. Tack in position and fell

down the first side. Turn over, cut away the

worn pajt, and turn in the edges as in fig. 49.

Fig. 50.

Fell or hem the second side, take out all tacking

threads, and flatten well (fig. 50).

(3) Rmi and Fell Patch. - This patch is best

suited to large holes. It is somewhat more

difficult to arrange than Nos. 1 and 2, but if

neatly done the results are very satisfactory.

Take the article to be patched and outline

the hole with four well-marked creases on the

right side of the material. The creases ought

to be made at least an inch beyond the worn

part on each side and even with the thread of

the material. Cut the patch to a size to corres-

pond exactly to tliis marked space and allow

414

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

a little extra for turnings. Tnrn in the raw

edges on the wrong side, crease them well down,

and open out again. This is merely to make a

mark as a guide for the sewing.

Place one of tlie sides of the patch against the

crease on the fabric - the two right sides to-

gether and the two creases precisely one on the

top of the other. The patch is not placed over

the hole, but lying quite to one side of it. Run

the two pieces together from corner to comer

and exactly along the creases. Then turn the

patch over, allowing it to take its proper position.

Now sew along the second side in the same

way, being most particular about the turning of

the corner so as to avoid puckering. The hole

may be made a little larger if necessary so as

to allow the fingers to be slipped inside. Sew

the other two sides in the same way and then

Fig. 51.

turn the work over. Cut away the worn part

and fell down the edges inside (fig. 51).

(4) A Shaped Patch. - Thisis sometimes required

if a hole occurs near the seam of a garment, as

for instance under the arm of a night-dress or

chemise or in the side of a slip-blouse.

Unpick the seam for about one inch beyond

the length required for the patch. Cut a patch

the size required and tack it carefully in position

and straight to a thread of the material. Hem

or fell the edges which lie on the garment, and

then cut the remainder to the curves of the

seam. Turn the work over, cut away the worn

part and fell neatly. The rest of the patch will

thus become part of the seam in place of the

worn part which has been cut away.

If both sides of the seam of the garment are

worn a similar patch must be put on the other

side. They should, if possible, be exactly alike ;

they will then join more neatly at the seam

(fiR. 52).

Print Patch. - When mending print or any

other material with a marked design the patch

muft be cut so as to match exactly the pattern

of ■ he material. For this reason it is sometimes

necessary to cut tlie patch larger than it need

otherwise bo, and the hole need not always be

in the middle. Sometimes, too, it will be found

better to cut the patch of an uneven shape, as

the stitches will show less if they are not in

straight lines.

Having cut the patch to the best shape

possible, turn down the edges on the wrong

side, to the depth of about one-eighth of an inch,

and place it on the right side of the garment

following the thread of the material and the

lines of the pattern ; put a pin in each corner

and then tack carefully in position.

Then fold back the material from the patch

so that the edge of the material and the edge of

the patch form a double edge, and overseam

round very neatly, holding the patch nearest

you. Commence at the centre of one of the

sides and be particular to make a stitch exactly

in the corners. Fasten off, slipping the needle

through to the wrong side, making one or

Fio. 52.

two back-stitches, and smooth out the seam so

that the patch lies perfectly flat. This is the

only seam which shows on the right side of a

print patch.

Turn the work over to the wrong side and cut

away the worn pieces to within a quarter of an

inch of the edges as in other patches. Then

begin at one corner and overcast the two raw

edges together with neat blanket stitches. The

stitches must not show through on the right

side.

Flannel or Woven Material Patches. - Flannel

patches differ from those made on cotton or

linen in that the raw edges are never turned

down, as the material is too thick. They are

worked with herring-bone stitches instead of

being felled. The patch itself may be square,

oblong, triangular, or round, according to the

shape of hole to bo covered.

Square and Oblong Patches are worked the

same way and are preferable to the other shapes

when it is possible to use them. Cut the patch

according to directions given for calico patch,

and notice that the way of the nap, i.e. the fluff

on the flannel, corrasponds with that of the

garment. Place the right side of the patch

downwards on the wrong side of the garment,

the threads of the material running in the same

direction, and the middle of the patch over the

middle of the hole. Put a pin in each corner

and then tack down carefully with fine sewing

cotton. Herring-bone round the edges, beginning

in the middle of one of the sides. Commence by

inserting the needle between the two thicknesses

of material and four threads up from the edge

PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING

415

of the patch. Be csireful with the corners to

make them all alike. Finish off by making one

or two back-stitches over the last herring-bone

stitch and slipping the thread through between

the two folds of material.

Turn over to the right side. Cut away the

worn part of the garment to within one quarter of

an inch, or about eight threads off the herring-

bone stitches, which show through like running

stitches. This will allow four threads for the

herring-bone on the right side, and four threads

for the space between those and the other

stitches. Now herring-bone the geurment on to

1 )

Fig. 53.

the patch, beginning in the middle of one of the

sides. Work the corners as before and finish

off (fig. 53).

A Triangular Patch is sometimes found more

practical than a square or oblong for mending

under armholes or at the neck of a garment.

It is prepared and placed in the same way as

a square patch, and the corners must be neatly

finished. Care must be taken when tacking

Fia. 54,

and herring-boning along the crossway sides, as

the material will be inclined to stretch (fig. 54).

A Circular Patch is most suitable for a hole

occurring in the elbow of a garment. It is a

little more difficult to manipulate, as the edges

are apt to stretch. Prepare and place it as

above and tack it very carefully in position.

The herring-boning will differ a little from the

regulation stitches, as they cannot be worked to

a thread; and as the inner circle is narrower

than the outer one the top stitches must be made

closer than the bottom ones on the WTong side,

and on the right side the bottom stitches closer

than the top ones (fig. 55).

Patching of Woven Material. - Woven material

can also be patched in the same way as flannel

if the garment is old and the hole to be mended

very large. Darning in this case would not be

^m0^

Fig. 55.

suitable. Fix the patch according to directions

given for a flannel patch and herring-bone with

fine wool instead of cotton.

SPECIAL MENDING

Fine Maslin should be mended in the same

way as other cotton material. Any dsiming

should be done with very fine soft cotton, and

if a patch has to be inserted the hems should

be made very narrow, and, where possible, hidden

with a tuck.

Blankets. - These are such precious articles

that they should be darned and patched as long

as possible, and T\hen they become too shabby

to put on the top of the bed they can be used

as under-blankets or binders. All thin places

should be darned with wool of the same colour.

If the place is very thin a piece of thin open

flannel might be put at the back and the

darning done over that. WTien there are

actual holes, patching is better than darning,

and the herring-boning should be done with

fine wool instead of cotton. If the sides of

the blanket become ragged and shabby they

should be trimmed with a pair of scissors,

then a narrow fold made and herring-boned

down ; or, the edges may be worked over with

blanket stitch in the same colour of wool as the

ends of the blanket.

Woven Under-garments. - These are also very

precious articles, and ought to be mended and

made to last as long as possible. Each week

when they come from the washing they should be

examined, and at the first signs of wearing must

be carefully darned. It is also important to

mend all under-garments at the end of a season

if they are to be laid away for some time.

If a thin place occurs in a hea\-y woven

material a piece of thinner woven material of an

elastic nature may be put at the back and the

darning done over that, or the worn piece may be

416

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

cut away and a neat patch inserted. Hand-

knitted underclothing is best mended with the

stocking-web dam, or a new piece might be

knitted in.

The wear of woven gsurments may be much

increased if the parts which undergo most

friction are carefully strengthened before the

garment is worn.

Table-Linen. - Mend according to general direc-

tions given for mending linen materials. The

question as to whether a patch or dam is

best must depend upon the positiod and size of

the piece requiring repair. Tlie aim must be to

mend so skilfully that the damaged part is as

little observed as possible.

A hole must always be patched unless it is

quite small, when it may be filled up with darn-

ing. In patching the pattern of the damask

must be matched as closely as possible as in

print patching. If a hole occurs in the middle

of a table-cloth it is sometimes a good plan to

fix in a centre taken from an old serviette.

Flourishing tlu-ead is the best to use for darn-

ing purposes, or a linen thread that is not glazed.

Instead of darning by the ordinary method, a

clever worker will copy the design of the damask

by missing and taking up more or less of the

warp strands of the darn, but this is very trying

for the eyesight and could only be undertaken

by an expert worker.

When the corners of a table-cloth become

worn or torn in the washing, they should be

rounded off very neatly and hemmed. The

four corners should bo made aUke.

Mending of Tweed or other Cloth. - This mend-

ing being applied to outer garments, it is very

important that it should be very neat and show

as Uttle as possible on the right side. As a rule,

for thin places and holes it is better to tack a

f)atch at the back and darn over it on the right

side. Ravellings of the same material should be

used- When finished put a damp cloth over

the wrong side and press it well with a hot iron.

If there is a lining the back seam must be un-

picked and the patch sUpped between the cloth

and the lining. The darn must be pressed

before the lining is sewn together again.

If the garment is not lined, the raw edges of

the patch can be darned into it neatly at the

back ; but this should only be attempted by

really good workers, as, even if the stitches do

not show through very much, the work is apt to

pucker.

An esksier way is to overseam or blanket stitch

the raw edges of the patch and press them well

with a hot iron.

Pine Drawing. - This stitch can be used for

mending a rent or cut in cloth of a close tex-

ture which does not unravel easily. The stitch

itself is very simple, and, if carefully made, should

be almost imperceptible. Use a thread of the

same material if possible, or, failing that, silk or

wool to match it. Silk must never be used on

a dull fabric as the stitch would bo perceptible ;

in fact, if the material is very fine there is

nothing better than a himian hair for mending

a cut of this kind.

If the edges of the tear are very much un-

ravelled, work the longer tlireads in, then cut

the rest quite straight. Hold the work flat

over your left hand between your thumb and

first finger with the right side uppermost, make

a knot at the end of the thread and bring out

the needle on the right side of the tear close to

top and keeping the two edges very well

together. Point the needle the other way and

bring it out, and similarly through the other

side. Draw the thread closely to make the

edges of the cloth meet, but not to overlap

(fig. 56). Continue taking a stitch on each side

Fig. 56.

alternately till the join is finished. Finish oft

with one or two back-stitches. Press the join

under a damp cloth with a hot iron.

Old German Seam. - This is very similax to

fine drawing and can servo the same purpose.

The stitches are made much closer together ;

they should not bo more than two or three

tlireads apart.

Stoting is often used by tailors for mending

a tear in material that does not easily fray out.

Take a thread of the material and make a knot

at the end. Fold back the material so that the

edges of the tear are outside and perfectly even.

Hold the work as for seaming, and begin quarter

of an inch at the left of the tear. Work from

left to right, making very close stitches and

taking up a very small amount from each edge.

Continue to one quarter of an inch beyond the

tear on the right-hand i^ido. Finish off vnth

about six stitches to the left, crossing the last

six seaming stitches. Iron on the wrong side

PLAIIs^ SEWING AND MENDING

417

with a damp cloth over the material. If the

work is well done the tear shovild be almost

invisible.

The " Stoppeur." - There is a special kind of

darning for tweeds and cloths done by the

" stoppeur." " Stoppeur " is to mend a hole so

that it is absolutely invisible on the right side,

and only loose threads are seen on the wrong

side. It is done with threads exactly like those

of the material, and the design itself is copied.

This is rarely done by an amateur ; but if an

awkward hole or cut occurs in a good garment,

such as a tailor-made gown or overcoat, it is

worth while to send it to the professional

" stoppeur," who will mend it for a very reason-

able charge.

To Mend Silk. - It is not easy to mend silk

nicely, as, like fine muslin, it is only used for

dressy garments and fancy articles, all of which

are more or less conspicuous.

As a rule, it is best to darn it finely with silk

of the same colour, or to put a patch on the

wrong side and to darn over that. If there is a

decided hole, then it may be better to insert

a patch in the same way as on a print article.

As far as possible in the mending of light silk

seams and tucks should be made use of to hide

part of the patch. Lace insertions, too, especi-

ally in. children's frocks, come in very useful for

the mending or hiding the insertion of a patch.

To Mend Gloves. - The style of mending must

depend upon the material and texture of the

gloves. The thin places in

cotton, silk, or woollen gloves

must he very neatly darned

with fine cotton, silk, or wool

of exactly the same shade and

texture. Little wooden eggs of

different sizes can be bought

singly or by the half-dozen for

slipping inside the fingers when

mending gloves. There are also

small sticks with rounded ends

for the same purpose.

Split seams in cotton and silk

gloves must be stitched on the

wi'ong side of the glove with fine

silk or cotton of the same colour. Care must

be taken not to pucker the seam and to com-

mence and finish off the thread securely with-

out knots.

If a woven or knitted glove splits between

the fingers or at the wTist owing to its being too

tight, darn the opening neatly so as to allow

a little more width. If the same thing happens

to a kid glove, take some silk of the same colour

and button -hole stitch the edges of the slit,

working round and round several times if

necessary to fill up tho space. Then tm-n the

glove on the wrong side and close the hole by

catching the end loops together, either with

overcasting or with button-hole stitches.

If there is a decided hole a better way is to

Glove-Menders.

procure a piece of the same kid from, an old

glove and to cut a patch of a suitable size. Put

this under the hole or sHt and over-seam all

round the edges on the right side with very

close stitches. Use fine sewing silk of the same

shade as the glove. Turn to the wrong side and

herring-bone down the edges of the patch with

pretty large stitches. The stitches on the

patch should be taken through the single kid

only, so that only one set of stitches show

through to the right side ; and these must be of

the very smallest. Suede, chamois, and all sorts

of skin gloves can be mended in this way.

SEWING BY MACHINE

No household should be without its sewing-

machine. Although good handwork is always

more valuable, and in many cases it cannot

be replaced, where there is a large amount of

sewing to be done, some more rapid method of

getting through the work must be resorted to.

There is no limit to the work that can be done

on a good sewing-machine, and when we con-

sider the hours of hand-sewing it can save, not

to speak of the work which would otherwise

have to be given out or bought " ready made,"

the initial expense in buying the machine should

never be grudged.

Not only will a machine do the long plain

seams, but it has now so many accessories that

it can be made to hem, braid, tuck, gather,

quilt, bind, &c., as well.

It is very important to buy a good machine

and one by a reliable maker. It is a mistake

to be led away by a cheap price or to buy one

second-hand ; in most cases it will be found that

a second-hand machine is worn out in some

part and will be an endless source of worry.

Invest in a really good article ; it will give endless

satisfaction and will last a lifetime if reasonable

care be taken.

There are two different kinds of machines :

(1) those that sew with a single thread - ^the

Chain-Stitch Machines, and (2) those that have

two threads - the Lock-Stitch Machines. There

is sometliing to be said in favour of both kinds.

In the former there is less mechanism, and the

working of the machine is very simple. The

work can easily be undone when required, and

provided the ends of thread are well fastened, the

stitching is perfectly secure. It is peirticularly

good for Hght work, such as the sewing of silks

and mushn. A little hand chain-stitch macliine

can be had so small and light in weight that it

can easily be carried about or can be packed up

for travelling without any trouble.

The lock-stitch machine gives a double stitch,

as there are the two threads, one above and the

other below in the shuttle. The work is very

strong and secure and can only be undone with

difficulty.

Both kinds of machines can be worked either

418

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

by hand or by foot. The special advantage of

the treadle machine is that both hands are left

free to guide and arrange the work.

The treadle machine is objected to by many on

the grounds that it is bad for a woman's health,

but the evils have been much exaggerated, and

unle&s the machine is a particularly heavy one

and it is worked for hours in the day, there is

nothing to be feared. If there is only a small

amount of sewing to be done a small hand-

machine will no doubt serve the purpose, but if

it is wanted for use in a large household it is

almost wiser to buy one with the treadle, as this

can always be detached and the machine worked

by hand if desired.

Full instructions for the use of the machine

are given with each special make ; in fact, most

makers offpr lessons free of charge to each pur-

chaser, and this will be found of great assistance,

as it is difficult to learn from any printed direc-

tions. There are, however, several important

points to be borne in mind when using any

machine, and a few general hints may be found

useful.

One is apt to attribute to the machine all

the faults of bad work, when in reality it is often

nothing but inexperience on the part of the

worker.

(1) The machine must be kept clean and in

good order. It ought to work easily and with

little or no noise ; in fact, some of the newest

makes are almost silent. If it works heavily it

is almost a sure sign that it requires oiling. It

wears a machine to work it when insufficiently

oiled, to say nothing of the difficulty in working,

being very tiring for the worker. Oiling must

be done regularly and the best machine oil used.

This is very important, as oil of an inferior quality

is almost sure to clog. By means of a little oil-

can oil all the parts where there is friction -

these are generally indicat,ed by little holes in

the machine - and then wipe off any superfluous

oil with a soft duster.

The machine must always be kept free from

dust. There is always a certain amount of

fluff coming off the different fabrics that are

sewn, and this lodges in the various parts of the

machine, so that it is well to wipe it ovor when

the work is finished.

Then from time to time a more thorough

cleaning is necessary. Use a little petrol instead

of the ordinary oil and work the machine several

minutes. Then clean the other parts with petrol,

wipe off with a soft cloth, and grease in the

usual way.

A machine should be kept covered when not

in use.

(2) The furnishings used with the machine

should be of the best. The needles must be

good and well proportioned to thickness of

thread and material. It is always well to keep

a supply of different sizes in reserve, and if

these are stuck into a piece of greased flannel

this will preserve them from rusting.

Tlie sewing thread, too, must be good and of

a smooth and even make. It is impossible to

produce a good stitch with a poor quality of

cotton; besides,if there areknots or badly -twisted

parts, there will be the continual annoyance of

breaking the thread. The tliickness of the

thread must also be proportioned to the size of

the needle, and in the lock-stitch machine the

shuttle thread shoxild always be a little finer

than the upper one.

(3) The tension must be right. Very careful

attention should be given to the instructions

regarding this, because unless properly regulated

it will be impossible to work the machine satis-

factorily.

When beginning to work the machine it is

always better to test the stitch on an odd piece

of material before starting on the work itself.

DARNING BY MACHINE

The Singer Sewing Machine Company have

introduced a new method of darning by machne

which ought to be an immense boon to the busy

housewife. The process is very simple, and the

special attachment which can be bought for

3s. can be used on any lock-stitch so%ving-

machine.

Full particulars can be had by w' calling at any of Singer's shops, where a special

lesson will always be given to purchfisers free

of charge. Both woollen and cot ion goodo can

be darned by means of this little appliance, and

the expert worker will be able to darn curtains

and lace so as to match the texture of the

material. The work is quickly done and has a

very neat and f Tiooth appearance when finished.

HOME DRESSMAKING

In this article no attempt has been made to go into the more scientific side of dressmaking, in-

cluding such subjects as drafting patterns, making fitted bodices or tailor-made garments ; such

knowledge can only be acquired by taking a thorough course of technical lessons - it cannot be

imparted by books.

The woman who wishes to make a study of dressmaking in all its branches should undoubtedly

arrange to take lessons either privately or at one or other of the many technical schools. It is for

the assistance of the woman who wishes to eke out her dress allowance by making her own skirts

and blouses and simple frocks, with the aid of one or other of the many paper patterns which are now

so easily procurable, that this article has been written, and we trust that the many hints embodied

in this chapter in regard to the adaptation of stock patterns to individual figures, and the cutting

out and making of simple yet smart garments will be of real practical iise to the home worker.

Economy of Home Dressmaking. - The ex-

travagance of the present age in regard to dress

has been made at various times the subject of

much comment in the newspapers. Men cor-

respondents have aired their so-called grievances

in the form of letters to the press, complaining

that where their grandmothers in their time

could do with one or two new dresses every year,

their wives and daughters are not content with

less than half-a-do2;en. On the surface there

would appear to be a certain amount of justi-

fication for this complaint, wliich will, however,

bear the brunt of more searching investigation.

The fact is that we enjoy so many advantages

to-day in the way of reduced cost of dress

material and accessories that, on comparing the

cost of dress fifty or sixty years ago to what it

is now, the balance of expenditure will be found

to be pretty evenly adjusted. Nowadays a

woman would hold up her hands in horror if

called upon to pay six or seven shillings a yard

for the material of her most ordinary gowns ;

yet this was looked upon by our grandmothers

as a very moderate expenditure indeed. Neither

would the woman of to-day dream of spending

a small fortune on the heavy silk brocade of

which the best gown of every self-respecting

woman of our grandmothers' time was invari-

ably built. Good dress materials are now well

within the reach of the most modest purse ; and

where a woman can make a large number of her

gowns herself, she will manage to dress very weU

indeed on a comparatively smaU outlay.

Not the least remarkable aspect of the present

era in dress is the rapid growth of home dress-

making. In former times the home-made dress

was usually an object weird and wonderful in

its clumsiness and lack of stjle. Nowadays the

rapid advance made in the science of dress-

making has come to the aid of the home dress-

maker, with the result that she is able to turn

out very creditable and well-fitting gowns.

Paper Patterns. - The now well-known paper

patterns are the outcome of this progress in the

dressmaking art. Patterns well drafted and

well designed and, above all, well cut may be

purchased for a few pence. These patterns

have been designed by expert di'essmakers and

fitters, and with their aid many women and girls

manage to keep up a very good wardrobe upon a

very small dress allowance indeed. Nowadays

there is scarcely a woman who has not attempted

to make a blouse for herseK at some time or

other and witli success. In olden times a woman

had to use her own brains in the designing and

cutting of her gowns. Nowadays the brains of

the experts who design the various patterns are

at the command of every woman who chooses

to avail herseK of the opportunities offered.

All she has to do is to carefully note and follow

the instructions given with the pattern. If she

is careful in regard to these, her work cannot

very easily go wrong.

The necessity for getting a good and reliable

pattern before attempting to make a dress or a

blouse is obvious. Among the many patterns

which have found favour with the home worker,

those sold by Messrs. Butterick & Co. of 83 and

84 Long Acre, London, W.C, deservedly take a

prominent place. These patterns are to be had in

nearly every size, and the instructions for their

use are so concise and so clear, that women with

only the most elementary idea of dressmaking

can turn out really smart garments for them-

selves with the aid of Butterick patterns.

If it is a woman's first attempt at dressmaking,

she should select a shirt blouse or a plain skirt

of the simplest description on which to try her

419

420

THE WOISIAN'S BOOK

" 'prentice hand." One* she has turned out a

really Buccossful ehirt blouse or a plain unlined

skirt, she may attempt more ambitious things,

for in dressmaking, as in every other science,

once the rudiments are mastered the rest will

become easy.

In ordering a blouse pattern it is necessary to

give the correct bust measurement. In sending

for a skirt pattern the waist measurement, and,

what is even more important, the measurement

round the hips about five inches below the waist-

line should be given.

Dressmaking Accessories. - Ha\ang secured a

good pattern, the home dressmaker should turn

her attention to the other necessary accessories.

She will require a pair of sharp cutting-out

scissors, a pair of small button-hole scissors, good

needles and thread, a measuring tape, and a

tracing wheel for tracing the pattern lines and

Tracing "VMieeL

marks in the material. Tailors' chalk or coloured

thread could be used for marking heavy materials

on which the tracing would not show. A good

treadle sewing-machine is of course a very

valuable accessory to dressmaking ; there should

also always be a plentiful supply of pins.

The table on which the material for cutting

out is laid should bo large enough to allow for

the various pieces of the pattern to be spread

out full length upon it. Tlie pattern should be

pinned to the material or adjusted in such a way

as to prevent it from slipping out of place.

A Useful Dressmaking Board. - It is an im-

portant rule of dressmaking that all the different

pieces of a garment should be tacked together

on a table, or, failing this, some other smooth flat

Dressmaking Board.

surface. A plain piece of board will answer the

purpose quite well. It should be after the style

and size of an ordinary drawing-board, with one

side scooped out to form a curve, as shown in

tne illustration. If there is no member of the

family sufficiently versed in the art of homo

carpentering, any joiner will supply and cut out

the board for a trifling sum.

\Mien seated at work the worker should take

the board upon her knees ; the curved part will

fit into her waist. She should place her feet upon

a footstool in order to support the board more

firmly. In this way she will have a very effective

little impromptu table at her command upon

which all her tacking can be done with the

greatest ease.

Dress-Stands. - A woman who makes her own

gowns will find her work much simplified if she

has a good dress-stand for fitting purposes.

This she can have made to her own measure, or,

if it has to do duty for several members of a

family, one of the expanding dress-stands, which

can be adjusted to any figure, will be found most

useful. In arranging the pleats of a skirt at the

back and securing an even hang all round, a

dress-stand is almost indispensable. Separate

bodice-stands may also be had padded for pinning

for an outlay of only five or six shillings. The

padded stands are undoubtedly the most iiseful

ones to have.

Dressmaking Stitclies. - The home dressmaker

must of course have a knowledge of the simple

needlework stitches, such as tacking, basting,

running, gathering, hemming, seaming, sewing,

stitching, back-stitching, slip-stitching, &o., for

description of which refer to needlework section

(p. 388).

Tailor's tacking is the stitch used in conveying

the different notches and perforations of a

pattern through the different breadths of the

Tailor's Tacking.

material to be cut when chalk cannot be used.

With a double thread of basting cotton baste

through pattern and material with oiit. long

stitch and two short ones, leaving the long

stitch loose enough to form a loop, then take

hold of the two pieces of material, separating

them about a quarter of an inch and cut them

as shown in illustration. Coloured cotton is

usually used for tailor's tacking.

Blouse Patterns. - Blouse patterns are cut in

different stock sizes according to the bust

measurement, and when the proper bust measure

is given the pattern will fit if a woman is of

correct proportions. There are many figures,

however, wliich differ from the average. One

woman may have an unusually high waist,

another may have an unusually long one. Again,

the arms of another may be very short in pro-

portion to the rest of hor figure, whilst in another

case the arms may be unduly long. The follow-

ing simple instructions and diagrams for altera-

tion of patterns will be found useful in all theso

cases.

HOME DRESSMAKING

421

One important thing to remember is that in

all cases in which an alteration is necessary,

the alteration must be effected on the pattern

before it is placed upon the material for cutting.

Before cutting out pattern be sure to read

carefully all instructions on pattern envelope.

In most patterns diagrams of all the separate

pieces of the patterns together -with instructions

for cutting out are given.

If a blouse pattern is too long-waisted and

requires shortening, a tuck should be made in

both front and back pieces in the position

Fig. 1.

shown in fig. 1. If the pattern is too short-

waisted and requires lengthening, cut pattern

across as shown in fig. 2, lay the di\'ided

portions upon another piece of paper separating

them far enough to make the pattern of the

Fia. 2.

req\iired length, and paste them on the paper,

cutting out a new pattern according to the

altered outline.

For widening the shoulder should be raised,

and increased turnings allowed at under-arm

seams.

In the Butterick patterns an allowance is

always made for fitting at shoulder and under-

arm seams. With other patterns, however,

this is not always the case, and

it is most necessary to carefully

read the directions sent with

the pattern in order that you

may allow extra width for fitting

and finishing if no allowance is

made.

The dotted line in fig. 3 shows

^^ere to make a tuck in the

blouse sleeve fur shor+sning it, or to cut it

across for lengthening it.

Fig. 3.

To shorten a two -piece sleeve pattern make

tucks in each piece above and below the elbow

of the size required as shown in illustration. If

the sleeve need lengthening cut across the pattern

in the same places, separating the pieces to the

required distance.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING

BLOUSES

When all the necessary alterations have been

made in the pattern it should be carefully pinned

to the material, and before taking the pieces off

mark all seams, notches, or perforations in the

pattern with chalk, or use the tailor's tacking

stitch in coloured thread through both breadths

of the material (see p. 420). If the blouse is to

fasten at the back, the front portion of the

pattern is laid to a lengthwise fold. If, as in the

case of shirt blouses, the fastening is to be in

front, the edge of the front portion of the pattern

should be laid to the selvedge or to a straight

tliread rvmning parallel with the selvedge.

In cutting out sleeves be careful not to cut

both sleeves for one arm ; this is a mistake very

often made by the beginner.

When the blouse has been cut out, baste pieces

together with notches evenly matched ; slightly

stretch the shoulder seam of the front piece or

pieces whilst basting to make the bloxise fit

evenly at the neck. Also stretch the neck

portion of the blouse whilst basting on the

collar. All parts of unlined bloiises should be

sewn together with French seams (see p. 392) for

the sake of neatness. When French seams are

used, however, the blouse will set better if the

seams are opened up from the bottom tothe waist-

line-the sides of the opened-out seams should

be neatly turned over and hemmed. If the

blouse is sewn into a small " basque band,"

sometimes called a " belt stay," at the waist,

this will dispense with any unnecessary fulness

below the waist-Hne, and the blouse will set

better and not pouch out loosely over the waist-

band, as blouses are often inclined to do.

Failing the belt-stay, a draw-string inserted

at the back of the blouse should be used. This

should be just at the waist-line ; if placed too

high it will show above the waist-belt ; if too

low the blouse will pouch out imtidily at the

back. Another effective way of keeping a

blouse in place is to stitch a webbing band

to the back and to fasten it round the waist

before putting on the skirt. If, in addition, two

strong hooks are sewn upside down on the

webbing band and two eyes sewn on the skirt-

band to fasten with the hooks, bodice and skirt

can be securely kept together in this way with-

out any danger of the blouse riddling up or the

skirt slipping beneath the waist-band.

Making the Sleeve. - The seams of blouse

sleeves should be first basted, and then very

carefully sewn together. The top part of a

422

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

blouse sleeve is gathered over the shoulder. Tlie

gathering must be made between the notches

shown in the sleeve pattern, and each sleeve

must be carefully sewn into the armhole with

the notches in the top of the sleeve even with

the notches in the armhole. Tlie sleeve is also

gathered at the wrist into the cuff. To Bnish

off the armhole neatly a narrow piece of cambric

cut on the cross should be stitched in the same

seam that stitches the sleeve into the armhole,

and afterwards turned over and stitched around

to form a binding to the armhole, as shown in

Binding a Sleeve.

illustration. If the top of the sleeve is not too

full, however, it can be sewn in with a French

seam.

The sleeves of shirt blouses are nearly always

made to open a few inches up the arm ; the

position of this opening varies with fashion.

Sometimes the opening may be at the inside

arm seam and sometimes at the back of the

Fia. 4.

sleeve. For a shirt cuff the sleeves are slashed

at the wrist and an overlap and an underlap

sewn on, as shown in fig. 4. The overlap

should be adjusted so as to entirely conceal the

underlap.

The Collar. - Collar patterns are always given

with the blouse patterns. Collars are cut on

the straight of the material and slightly curved

to fit well into the nock. For short necks the

collar must necessarily be rather low, and

therefore very little curve is required, a straight

band being often found sufficient. High collars,

however, require to be well curved. With

shirt blouses detachable linen or muslin collars

are often worn over a plain neck-band. For

dressy blouses, however, when high collars are

worn these should be boned when finished to

make them set well. It is always better to

have collar supports which can be removed with

little trouble when the blouse has to be washed

or cleaned. The celluloid collar supports are

admirable for this purpose. They should be

sewn in on either side of the collar with the top

coinciding with the Une of the neck from the

ear and the bottom of the support slanting

slightly forwards. Collars of dressy blouses

usually fasten at the back, and a collar support

should be sewn at each side of the fastening.

When the collar fastens in front a collar support

should be sewn at each side of the front fasten-

ings. When ordinary collar boning is used, be

careful that this is finished off very neatly and

covered with some soft covering, as in many

instances painful and unsightly sores upon the

neck have been caused where this important

detail has been neglected.

From a plain shirt blouse pattern may be

evolved many a blouse of a much daintier kind.

The fastening may be made at the back instead

of at the front, the latter being cut to the fold

of the material. Such blouses may be made of

silk, lace, muslin, net, crepe, de chine, or other

dainty materials, and prettily trimmed with

lace and insertion or hand embroidery. The

plain shirt blouse is capable of many stages of

evolution, and a well-fitting pattern should be

carefully kept, as in time the home worker may

evolve many ingenious ideas for making use of it

in some new way. W^ith plain loose blouses a

separate blouse slip should be worn instead of

lining. Blouse slips need not be boned ; they can

be of cambric, lawn, or washing silk, and are

very easy to make.

Buttons and Button-holes. - Shirt blouses are

usually fastened in front with buttons and

button -holes. Care should be taken that buttons

and button -holes are even. To ensuie this,

take a piece of light cardboard, make a notch

in this corresponding to the distance required

between each button -hole, and, beginning at the

waist-line, mark the position of the button -holes

by means of this notched card, marking each with

a pin. The waist should be taken preferably

as the beginning of the measurement, as there

should always be a fastening at the waist-line,

and this can be asstired in this way. Make

corresponding measurements for the buttons on

the left side of the blouse front. (For making

button -holes, see p. 400.)

Skirts. - Skirt patterns may have three, five,

seven, nine or more gores ; skirts with only three

gores require darts in order to be fitted to

the figure. A beginner often finds difficulty in

arranging these darts, therefore it is better that

she should select a skirt with five or seven gores

for her first attempt.

As has been said before, when ordering a skirt

HOME DRESSMAKING

423

pattern particular attention must be paid to

the measurement round the hips. If the hips

are large in proportion to the waist, then order

by the hip measurement, as although this entails

receiving a pattern with a slightly larger waist,

the latter can easily be taken in. For the

length of skirt take your measiirement from the

waist to the floor in front, at the back, and over

the hips. For walking length about two inches

will have to be deducted from the measurement

thus obtained. Now compare length obtained

by measurement with the length of the pattern.

If the pattern is too long, make it shorter by

Fig. 5.- lengthening and Shortening Skirt Patterns.

putting a tuck of the necessary size in each

piece of the pattern about six inches below the

hip-line. If it is too short, lengthen it by cutting

across and separating the pieces to the distance

required. Pin all pattern pieces carefully to the

material, and mark all notches and perforations

before taking the pieces off. In the case of

women who are not of average proportions,

alteration in length is not the only alteration

which wiU have to be made. The skirt of the

woman with a prominent abdomen, for instance,

is apt to stand out in front unless properly

cut. Although only a very simple alteration is

necessary to secure a perfect fit, few women

go to the trouble of finding out how this altera-

tion can be made, and are surprised if their

skirts hang badly through lack of it. An

extra allowance should be made at the top of

the front and side gores when the abdomen is

Flo. 6.

prominent, the extra depth being gradually

diminished until it is reduced to next to nothing

at the hips. Fig. 6 wU convey a good idea of

the alterations to be made ; the extra length at

the top of the skirt wiU prevent it from standing

out in front. Care must be taken not to make

the waist smaller when extendiiig the gores ; in

order to avoid this the side edges oi the gores

must be increased as shown in illustration.

When a skirt has to be altered in this way it is

better to cut it out first upon some cheap coarse

lining and fit it on before cutting the material.

To cut out Skirt Patterns. - If the material

has a pile or " up and down," all tops of gores

must be laid in the same direction when placed

upon the material ; if there is no up and

down, the gores may be arranged for cutting

with the top of one gore fitting in with

the bottom of another. The front piece of

pattern is marked with a notch on one side, the

side without the notch being placed to a length-

wise fold ; the other patterns are marked with

notches on each side, thus the first side gore has

one notch on one side and two notches on the

other, the second side gore has two notches on

one side and three on the other, and so on.

Tlie edge of a pattern piece with the less number

of notches must always be placed to a selvedge

or straight thiread from the hip downwards, the

hip of course being shaped to the figiure ; thus

in a gore which has two notches on one side and

tliree notches on the other the side with the

two notches would be placed to the straight

selvedge or straight thread, whilst the side with

the three notches would naturally fall on the

slant or the " cross " of the material.

The Pile of Cloth.- All woollen and cloth skirts

should be cut with the pile running towards the

bottom of the garment, but velvet or plush

garments should be cut so that the pile runs

upward. In cutting out the v£irious pieces of

the garment care must be taken that in each one

the pile runs in the same direction.

Stripes, Checks, and Plaids. - In cutting the

various pieces of a garment in striped, checked,

or plaided materials care must be taken that

the stripes, checlvS, and plaids are properly

matched. For tliis reason a greater quantity

of material will be required than in the case of

plain stuffs. It is important in these cases to

select a position for the top of the material. All

the pattern pieces should then be placed with

their upper parts in the direction selected. It

is as well to place the pieces of the garment

ah'eady cut on the material next to the adjoining

piece which is to be cut. This will form a very

good guide as to the best method of cutting the

next piece. In matching plaids and patterns

in this way a Uttle waste of material is often

unavoidable.

Stitching the Seams of Skirts. - The different

pieces of the skirt should bo carefully basted

together before stitching. Lay the skirt on a

table while putting it together. Tlie straight

side of each gore should always be held towards

the worker. The straight edge of the gore

always goes to the bias edge of another gore.

424

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

excepting at the back, where the two bias edges

come together. Care should be taken not to

stretch the bias edges whilst basting. All the

seams should bo basted from the top downwards ;

the skirt should then be tried on and any un-

evenness at the hem corrected. If possible, it

is as well to place the skirt on a dress-stand, or

for tho person who is to bo fitted to stand upon

a stool and get some one to mark on the bottom

of the skirt with pins or chalk in an even line

the exact length required. All skirts, excepting

those of very light flimsy materials, such as ninon,

&o., should be stitched by machine. In all

cases they should bo stitched from the top down-

wards. In machining side-back seams always

have the back next the " feed " of the machine

and the side-back next the pressure foot. When

the seams have been stitched, press them open

and overcast them. (For Overcasting, see p. 391.)

When stitching seams of very light materials,

such as washing silk, fine muslin, stitch a piece

of tissue paper in the seam. This can bo after-

wards pulled off, and will prevent the material

from puckering.

Finishing the Top of Skirts. - The waist-band

may be made of cotton belting. If single belt-

ing is used it is stitched on the right side, and

the raw edges on the wrong side are faced with

silk or Prussian binding. Where the belting is

double, this should be opened out, one end being

stitched at the front of the skirt, the other taken

over the back. Another way of finishing the

top of the skirt is by means of a " cording " ;

this method is especially suitable for stout

figures. To do this cut on the cross a piece of

strong silk or other stuff one inch and a quarter

wide; it must be a perfect bias. Place a medium-

sized cord along this strip of silk or stuff, double

the silk over, and run the silk and cording to-

gether, taking care not to stretch either the top

of the skirt or the cording. Baste skirt and

cording together by placing the side having the

narrow seam of silk against the right side of

the skirt with the cording towards the bottom.

After basting, back-stitch to the skirt by hand,

the right side of the skirt towards you, then turn

in the edge to the inside and finish off neatlj'.

Plackets. - The placket of a skirt may bo

placed either at the side or at the back. The

opening of the placket should be only as long as

is necessary for the skirt to be slipped on and

off easily. The seam should be opened out

about ten or twelve inches from the waist

according to the size round the hips, but in all

C£"es the shorter the placket the better. Two

Btrios of material, each half an inch longer than

the placket opening, should be cut. One strip

must be about four inches and the other strip

about two inches wide. The wider strip is

doubled over and sown to the left side of the

skirt to form an underlap, whilst the other strip

is faced to the right side (see fig. 7).

Pockets axe seldom worn nowadays, as there

is not much room allowed for them in the tight-

fitting skirt of the moment. Where a pocket

is found indispensable, however, it should be

made of lining to match the skirt and placed

in the placket either at the side or at the back

of the skirt. It usually takes the form of a kind

Fig. 7.

of pear-shaped bag, and is cut with the centre of

the pocket to the fold of the material. Open it

out and cut slip for pocket in the centre, where

pattern has been placed against the fold. Face

the opening with a piece of the dress material.

Fold again after facing, stitching all round

except at the opening ; finish with French seam,

and back-stitch pocket in the placket by hand.

Finishing the Bottom of the Skirt. - Never turn

up the hem of a skirt before the waist-band has

been adjusted. The bottom of the skirt may

either be turned over and hemmed, or finished

with a false hem. In turning over the skirt for

the hem care must be taken that the latter is of

the same depth all the way round. To ensure,

this take a piece of cardboard, make a notch

in this of the depth required, and, using

this as a measure, turn up hem all the way

round to the depth of the notch. If the

skirt is hemmed, the fulness at the top should

be gathered slightly before basting it to the

material. Baste carefully before stitching. The

skirt may bo hemmed by hand or machine-

stitched. The hems of cloth and serge skirts

are usually machine-stitched, sometimes being

finished off with two or three or more rows of

machine-stitching. Needless to say, the rows

of stitching must be perfectly even or the

appearance of the skirt will bo spoiled.

In accordance with present fashions stiffening

is not much used in the hems of skirts. Where

an interlining is preferred, bias strips of lining

or canvas are inserted in the hem. It is better

to avoid very stiff interlining, as the latter very

soon cuts the material. The edge of the skirt

may bo finished off with braid or binding to

prevent it from cutting. Brush or velvet

braiding are very good for the purpose. (For

Method of Braiding Skirts, see p. 404.)

Making a False Hem. - A false hem may be

made with pieces of material cut on the cross,

HOME DRESSMAKING

425

or in the shape of the bottom of the skirt. In

the latter case it is necessary to take the skirt

pattern as a guide in cutting out. If the hem

is faced with bias strips the odds and ends of

material left over from the cutting can be

utilised. A bias facing should always be stretched

slightly at its lower edge and shaped to the skirt

by pressing. Before putting on a false hem turn

up the lower edge of the skirt on the wrong side

and baste it ; tixcn up also the lower edge of the

false hem. This should be tiu-ned under and

basted to the wrong side of the skirt (fig. 8). The

Fig. 8.

raw edge of false hem at the top may be turned

in or bound with binding ribbon or braid. When

it is basted into position, stitch skii't and false

hem together. The hem should be well pressed

with a warm iron on the inner side when finished,

and all fulness at the top shrunk out by damping

and then ironing.

Pressing Seams. - There are many details of

dressmaking which the amateur more often than

not altogether neglects ; chief amongst these is

the pressing of seams. Careful pressing is of

the utmost importance to the appearance of the

finished garment. Special skirt, bodice, and

sleeve boards may be bought for the purpose,

but, failing these, the home worker can press her

garments quite well without them. Skirts and

coats require a large flat surface, and should

be ironed on a large ironing-board on a table.

Sleeves, however, should always be pressed on a

rounded surface. Failing a sleeve board, either

an old broom-handle or a rolling-pin covered first

with an old piece of blanket and then with a

smooth white cloth, would make a very good

substitute ; a large round ruler might also be

made to answer the purpose. The seams of

cloth garments should be damped before pressing.

It is not necessary, however, to damp the seams

of lighter and softer materials. All darts should

bo pressed over a tailor's cushion where possible.

Seams of silk and velvet garments should not

be pressed upon a table or board. When it is

necessary to press seams in silk or velvet, hold

one end of the seam in the left hand, and let

some one else hold the other end. Then with

the right hand run the iron along the seam,

pressing it open or closed as desired ; in this

way the iron touches only the seam. If no

assistant is at hand, lay the iron on its side and

use both hands to draw the seam across the edge

of the iron. The hem of a silk skirt may be

Tailor's Cushion.

pressed in the iisual way on the table or boeurd,

but do not have the iron hot, and press only the

hem.

GENERAL HINTS

Shrinking Materials. - ^It is important to re-

member that all woollen materials should be

shrunk before they are cut and made up. If

this is not done, the dress will probably not only

shrink if exposed to rain, but it will also spot.

When buying woollen materials always inquire

if they have been slirunk. If not the shrinking

will be usually undertaken at the shop at which

the material has been bought for a small charge

per yard, or it may be accomplished at home in

this manner : - Lay an ironing blanket evenly

upon a good-siz;ed table. Place the material

face downwards upon the blanket, ha\ang first

cut off the selvedges. Then take a strip of heavy

unbleached muslin or drilling one yard wide and

two yards long, wet and wring tliis out, and then

place it over the material. Now press several

times with the hot iron, shrinking only a small

portion at a time. After doing tliis remove the

muslin and press directly on the material until

dry. Double-width material should be folded

the right side inwards whilst being pressed.

Some of the thinner woollen goods will not stand

pressing in this way. It is as well always to

experiment with a small piece of the material.

If it is found that it becomes shrivelled up, it is a

sign that water should not be used ; press instead

with a moderately warm iron.

An important point for the home dressmaker

to remember is that some hght summer wash-

ing materials, such as drill, duck, pique, linen,

spotted muslins, require shrinking as much as

woollens, for if this is not done dresses of these

materials will in most cases shrink a great deal

after their first visit to the laundress.

Inhere is another important detail in regard

to dressmaking in which the home dressmaker

often fails, i.e. neatness in finishing. A care-

lessly finished garment reflects but little credit

upon its wearer. Neglected turnings and frayed

edges, badly adjusted hooks and eyes, crooked

button-holes, puckered hems, all betoken the

426

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

careless worker. Every part of the garment

should be neatly and carefully finished.

\Vlien making a skirt never forget to sew two

little loops made of ribbon binding, skirt lining,

or black tape to the inner side of the waist-band,

one at each side of tlie waist, by which to hang

up the skirt. This is only a little thing, but it

helps to keep the shape of the skirt much longer

than if it were hung up by the material itself.

Trimmings. - These play an important part in

the fashioning of tasteful garments, and must

be chosen with discrimination and taste. The

skilful worker can transform quite a simple little

blouse or skirt into very dressy garments in-

deed by the judicious addition of trimmings.

Ornamental buttons may be utilised with great

effect. These may be had in all kinds of shapes

and designs, and are also often made of the same

material as the dress. In this latter case the

home worker must make the buttons herself,

purchasing button moulds of the si^e required.

These may be bought at any draper's and are

covered by cutting out pieces of the material

and gathering them on to the moulds.

Hand Embroidery is a very favourite trimming

for blouses. A good transfer pattern should be

procured and ironed on to the part to bo em-

broidered. These patterns are often given away

gratis by fashion papers, and should be carefully

treasured in case occasion for using them arises.

The transfer should always be tacked or

pinned in the position required, the right

side next to the material, and then pressed

with a moderately hot iron. The iron,

must not be too hot, however, or the blue

ink of the pattern will become obliterated,

whilst if too cold no impression will be

made. Very often in the case of blouses

made of the heavier materials, instead of

embroidering a transfer design, a most

ornamental effect is achieved by applying

a very narrow braid to the outline. The

braid should be slip-stitched on with silk

to match it, pressing well on the wrong

side when finished. All pas.sementerie and other

similar trimmings should be carefully tacked in

position before actually sowing them to the

garment.

SOME SIMPLE PATTERNS

The following are smart yet simple styles

which may be easily carried out by the home

dressmaker. Patterns similar to those illustrated

may be obtained upon application to The

Butterick Publishing Company, Long Acre,

London, W.C.

A Shirt Blouse. - Fig. 9 shows a very simple

yet up-to-date little shirt blouse well within the

scope of the amateur worker. It is finished

with a simulated box-pleat in front and four

tucks running from the shoulder on either side.

The back is finished with two long forward-

turning tucks to give the effect of a large box-

pleat. The pattern may be had in bust sizes

32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, and 46 inches. Two

yards of material 44 inches wide will be sufficient

to make the blouse for a woman of 34 or 36-inch

bust measurement. The pattern is cut out with

allowance for tucks, the position of the tucks

Fia. 9.- A Butterick Pattern.

being marked on the pattern with lines of

perforations.

To cut out the Blouse. - All pieces with largo

triple perforations should bo cut to a lengthwise

fold ; these include the back and the belt-stay.

All the other pieces must be cut with the large

double perforations lengthwise.

Pattern Pieces of Fig. 9.

To Make the Blouse. - To make the bcx-pleat

fold under the edge of the right front at notches,

stitching quarter of an inch from the fold, and

make a backward -turning tuck, creasing the

material for the purpose at the line of small

triple perforations. Malio a three-quarter inch

horn on left front piece, turning hem under at

largo single perforation. On each side of the

front make four backward -turning tucks,

creasing the material for the piu-pose at the

lines of small single perforations marked on

pattern, stitching three-quarters of an inch

from each crease, extending the tucks yoke

depth. In the back make a forward -turning

tuck on either side, creasing on lines of small

single perforations and sewing three-quarters of

an inch from each cmnse. Then gather the

fronts and back at small double perforation in

waist-line and three-quarters of an inch above.

HOME DRESSMAKING

427

terminating gathering-in line with single per-

forations just above.

Baste seams with notches matched, gather

sleeves at top between notches and at bottom

into Cliff. Join sleeve seam and baste sleeves

into armholes with corresponding notches in

top of sleeve and armhole. If the blouse is cut

with a sailor collar, the neck must be cut slightly

lower in front.

If the blouse is finished with a belt-stay, cut

the latter out with the triple perforations on

pattern to a lengthwise fold, and sew it under

gatherings at waist -line with the notches at the

bottom of the belt-stay meeting the under-arm

seams.

Tlie blouse should always be tried on before

the seams are actually stitched, and any little

arrangement of the fulness or other adjustment

can be made.

A Useful Overblouse. - The overblouse given in

the illustration (fig. 10) makes a very useful little

garment, as it may be slipped on over a blouse

which has already seen good wear, giving it quite

a rejuvenated appearance. It

can also be worn over a specially

made guimpe or underslip and be

fashioned out of ninon, net, lace,

silk, cashmere, or velveteen, in

accordance with the taste of the

wearer. One and seven-eighth

yards of material forty -four inches

wide, or three and three-eighth

yards of material twenty-seven

inches wide would be required

Fig. 10.- a But- ^O'^ wonTien of from thirty -two to

terick Pattern, thirty-six in bixst measure. It

is very easy to make, as the gar-

ment is cut in one piece. Before cutting

out make necessary alterations on pattern,

lengthening or shortening the waist about

two and a half inches above the waist -line.

The latter will be indicated upon the pattern

by a hne of small double perforations. For

wide material place the pattern with the edge

having large triple perforation to a lengthwise

fold. To avoid piecing when narrow material

is used, cut with edge having large triple

perforation lengthwise, allowing three-eighths

of an inch for seaming. Cut trimming band

for neck with triple perforation to lengthwise

fold. Baste seams wdth perforations and

notches matching. Turn hems under at each

side of back. Gather along double perfora-

tions at waist -line and three-quarter inch above,

termmating gathering-in line with large single

perforations.

Sew notched edge of sleeve-band to bottom of

sleeve with seams even and notch on upper

side.

Sew trimming band on flat with neok edges

and front centres even.

There are nictny ways in -n liich the overblouse

idea may be extended and developed from the

renovation point of view. By the addition of a

skirt tunic it becomes transformed into a useful

overdress. This may be carried out in ninon,

lace, or net, and, worn over an old evening dress,

will serve to give the latter quite a new lease of

life. Light overdresses of the kind look especi-

ally well over satin, and as this material has had

a certain vogue during the past two seasons for

evening wear, it may be presumed that many a

woman will have hidden away in some corner

of her wardrobe a satin dress which in ordinary

circumstances would have been put aside as

having fulfilled its mission, but which, if she is

wise, she can easily utilise in this very simple

way.

A very useful and at the same time dainty

evening gown can also be made by attaching

the overblouse in semi-princess style to a simple

five-gored skirt. This would look

very well carried out in ninon and

worn over a silk or satin underslip,

whilst made in soft silk it would be a

very simple style suitable for a young

girl's evening gown.

In cutting out the overblouse of soft

material for evening wear, extra width

should be allowed for gathering. If

of very thin transparent material it is

advisable to cut out an underbody of

the same shape in silk or satin, only

the latter should be quite plain and the

overblouse gathered on to it. Three

rows of gathers edged with a tiny

frill, as shown in illustration, make a Evening

very effective finish for evening wear. Gown.

Carried out in cashmere and worn

over a simple guimpe, the sleeves and yoke

of which are faced with lace, the same

idea may be applied in the fashioning of a

pretty afternoon gown. In this latter case the

trimming should consist of the bands of con-

trasting material as finish to neck and sleeves

instead of frills and gathers. To make the

whole dress five yards of material

forty-four inches wide would be

required for women of thirty-six-

inch bust measure, and for under-

body of evening gown one yard

of forty-five-inch material would

be necessary.

A Simple Skirt. - ^Tlie gored skirt

pictured in illustration is a very

simple pattern that may easily be

attempted by the home dress-

maker.

Before cutting out on woollen

stuffs the material should be

shrunk (seep. 425) and the selvedge j.jg ii._a But-

cut off. terick Pattern.

The diagram (p. 428) shows the

pieces of the skirt pattern. Some inexperienced

amateurs have made the mistake of thinking that

the single pieces joined together would make

428

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

a •whole skirt. Naturally they onlj' represent

the half ; tlie sccoud half of the front goro is

obtained by placing the front of it indicated by

three large perforations in the pattern to a

lengthwise fold ; the other pieces are cut in

duplicate. As already pointed out, notches are

made in eiich piece of the pattern to mark the

Pattern Pieces of Fig. IL

position of the gores. In cutting the material

these notches must be carefully marked, and in

basting the skirt the pieces with a corresponding

number of notches must be tacked together.

Full instructions for cutting and making

correctly are always given upon the pattern

envelope.

For an average-sizjed figure four yards of

material forty -four inches wide will be required.

A Princess Undersllp. - The vogue for such

ethereal fabrics as ninon, voile, lace, and net

for afternoon and evening weeu*, together

with fashion's mandate that the figure must

be slim, and that therefore under -garments

must be well fitting, has tended to decidedly

extend the sphere of usefulness of that very

comfortable and neat garment the " prin-

cess " underslip. There can, indeed, be no

more useful accessory to the wardrobe, for

instance, than one of these slips in black

or whit" satin, for it can be worn under

almost any kind of gown, and is at the

same time dressy enough for the smartest

occasions. Soft satin, it must bo re-

membered, is an excellent material for

wear, and is also wawhable, two very ex-

cellent recommendations for the woman

with a small drees allowance, whilst made

out of nainsook or batiste the slip is very

usefi-.l for wearing with summer lingerie

dresbes.

For a slip with flounce six and a quarter

yards of material thirty-six inches wide

with fourand one-eighth yards flouncing,eighteen

inches deep will be required. Ribbon beading

and lace can bo used for trimming if desired.

,Jcks running iciven in fig. 12 may bo made

The back is finise flounce, with long or short

sleeves, low or liigh neck, or the flounce may

be made to button on to the skirt, so that two

or tlu-ee different flounces suitable for vary-

ing occasions may bo made to go with the one

garment, thus affording a pleasing variety in

wear.

Two alternate fronts are given in the pattern

pieces. The piece marked (1) is placed with the

triple perforations to a lengthwise

fold where no seam in front is desired.

For narrow material and where there

is to be a centre seam use the piece

marked (2). The other pattern pieces

consist of side-front, side-back, back,

two styles of sleeves, sleeve-band,

collar, one quarter of dust ruflfle,

flounce and band to be used when

the flounce is made to button on to

the garment. If the under -garment

is to be made of satin or silk, and

the dust ruffle is to be accordion

pleated, cut the latter from pattern

piece ntmibered 12 according to in-

structions given below, and send it

to an accordion pleater, who will do

the work for a small charge. The

pattern is adaptable to either the

medium sweep or the round length. Butterlck

If flouncing is desired, cut the Pattern,

pattern of flounce (No. 11), with

front edge having a cluster of four small per-

forations on a fold and lower edge at border ;

if of other goods in either length, cut with front

edge on lengthwise fold. Cut " 12 " the depth

and four times the length of its pattern, " 13 "

twice the length of pattern lengthwise ; piece

Pattern Pieces of Fig. 12.

with large triple perforation on lengthwise fold ;

other pieces with large double perforation

lengthwise.

To Make. - Gather sleeve along top between

notches. If full sleeve is used, gather this at

HOME DRESSMAKING

429

bottom also. Join parts with notches matched,

and, furnishing an opening at centre-back, seam

above cluster of four notches for back closing,

or at centre-front seam jxist below lowest single

notch for front closing. If flounce is to be

pleated, make tliirteen backward -tiirning pleats

at each side by creasing from each small single

perforations in top to corresponding perforation

below, and bring creases over to large single

perforation, as indicated by small arrows on

diagram.

If a gathered flounce be preferred, gather

top of flounce and dust ruffle, and join dust

ruffle to bottom of gores. Sew flounce to slip

at line of large single perforations, or, if flounce

is to be buttoned on, join ends of band ; sew

one long edge of band to top of flounce and

sew other long edge over seam. Work equally

spaced button -holes on band, and sew corres-

ponding buttons to sHp as far above large

single perforations as required for top of

flounce to come at perforations when adjusted.

Then sew the upper edge of a row of inser-

tion to the slip so that it will cover the band

when slip is buttoned on. Trim with edging,

insertion, and ribbon beading.

For an inverted pleat at back, crease from

large single perforations near waist-line to cor-

responding perforations below, and bring both

creases over to back edges of extensions.

Try on, bringing closing edges of slip together,

and making alterations if necessary at outlet

seams.

A Useful Evening Cape. - The Toga cape has

supplied a long -felt wa.it on the part of the

home worker, for it is a simple pattern of

an evening cape easy to cut and easy to

Fig. 13. -a Butterick Pattern.

make, yet at the same time bearing the all-

important hall-mark of style. It is a fashion

also which promises to die hard on account of

its general all-round usefulness. Satin, cash-

mere, or other soft and easily draped material

is the best to use in making tliis cape. The

material should be as wide as possible to avoid

the necessity of a centre seam. Three and seven-

eighth yards of material fifty-four inches wide,

or four and three-quarter yards forty -four inches

wide, or seven and three-eighth yards of twenty-

seven -inch material would be required. There

is only one piece to the pattern.

To Cut. - If material without nap or distinct

Pattern Piece of Fig. 13.

up or down is used, cut with back edge (part of

pattern showing double perforation) to a cross-

wise fold : if the material has a distinct up or

down out with edge having a double perforation

crosswise, allow three -eighths of an inch on

this edge for seaming.

To Make. - Tack the two edges of the top

together to form a loop at the point indicated

by single perforation on pattern. Try on to see

that it hangs well and that the tacking comes

just at the back of the neck with the fulness

hanging in folds as illustrated. The simplest

method of adjusting the front of the cape is to

allow it to hang straight, a pretty ornamental

buckle being used as a fastening. Trim with

hand embroidery or fancy braiding and fasten a

tassel to the lower end of loop. The wrap may

be lined if desired.

A Simple Morning Dress. - In the chapter upon

the " Choice and Care of Dress " it is said that

every woman should have a simple but neat

dress for morning wear, especially when she has

a number of little household duties to attend to.

This dress should be made preferably of washing

material and should be cut just long enough

to clear the ground, or even shorter if required.

It should fit the figure neatly, yet loosely enough

to be comfortable and to allow free movement

of the limbs. All these important qualities,

which are so indispensable for a really useful

house dress, will be found in fig. 14.

This pictures a morning dress composed of a

neat blouse bodice attached to a plain seven -

gored skirt in semi -princess style. The skirt

may be finished off with a flounce at the foot or

430

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

else may bo left quite plain, according to in-

dividual taste. For the dress without the

flounce four and so von -eighth yards of material

forty-four inches wide would be

required for a woman of thirty-six-

inch bust measure, one and a

quarter j'ards extra material of the

same width being necessary for the

.J. , flounce. The dress may be made up

ra!"^'"|/ with or without a lining. We shall

" ' explain the latter method as being

the easier of accomplishment by the

home worker.

Before cutting out blouse bodice, try

on to see position of waist-line ; if the

latter is too high or too low rhake the

necessary alterations by slashing or

pleating pattern (see p. 421). Also

make the necessary alterations on skirt

pattern. This latter can have either

inverted pleats at the back, or be

finished with gathers, or else be left perfectly

plain. If the last-named method be preferred

Pattern Pieces of Fig. 14.

it will be necessary to cut oS back edge of

back gore of pattern at the line of small single

perforations.

To Cut. - If two bias edges are to meet at each

side seam, for striped or plaid material cut the

side and back gores with line of small triple

perforations lengthwise, or if a bias edge is to

meet a straight edge, for plain material cut these

gores with large double perforations lengthwise.

Cut all pieces with edges having large triple

perforations on a lengthwise fold, and other

pieces with large double perforations length-

wise. Either a bishop sleeve or a leg of mutton

sleeve may bo used - patterns of both styles are

usually given.

To Make. - Baste seams and join gores with

notches and perforations matching. Finish off

right front of blouse with box-pleat, gather

sleeVe at top between notches. If the bishop

sleeve pattern is used, slash up at the wrist,

and finish with a lap seven-eighth inch wide.

Gather sleeve at bottom between notches.

Turn under end of cuff in line with large single

perforations for a hem. Gather the front and

back of blouse at the bottom and also one and

a quarter inches above, terminating gathering at

large single perforations. Either a turn-down

collar or a high standing collar may be used.

Roll the former at line of perforations, or sew

on the latter with ends meeting at centre -back.

If flounce is used, it should be cut four times

the length of pattern. Fold under top of this

seven-eighths of an inch and gather half an inch

from fold, or if a heading is not desired, cut off

top of flounce half an inch and gather at top.

Sew flounce along gathering to skirt with lower

edges even.

For inverted pleats crease the back gore on

line of large single perforations, and bring

creases to centre seam. If preferred gathered

at back, gather gores between small double

perforations (see diagram).

Join the skirt to the blouse with front and

back centres even.

Sew a belt one and a half inch wide when

finished flatly over joining of skirt as illustrated,

and join loose edge of front gore to belt.

A Kimono Dressing-gown or Jacket. -

For a simple yet pretty style of dressing-

gown, the now familiar kimono is difficult

to beat. The trend of fashion also loaves

it practically untouched, for it bids fail?

to remain a long time with us, if only

for its usefulness, which is undisputed.

If it is wished to keep strictly to

the kimono idea, a material with a

floral pattern is the best to use. Pretty

Japanese silks, prints, or cottons with

floral designs make up very effectively,

a band of some plain contrasting

material being used as a

finish. For warmer gar-

ments plain flannels and

nun's veiling may be used.

For the dressing-gown given

in our illustrations fovu* and one-

eighth yards of material forty-

four inches wide will be needed

for women of thirty-six-inch bust

measure, with two yards of con-

trasting material twenty or more

inches wide for trimming bands.

A dressing-jacket may be made

from the same pattern by cutting

off the front and back pieces and

the front trimming band at th'^

line of large single perforations

running across the pattern pieces.

A long or a short sleevo may be

made. For the latter cut off

the sleeve pattern at the line

of small single perforations.

Lengthen or shorten kimono at bottom, and the

sleeve near notches in side edges. A two-and-a-

half-inch hem is allowed both for dressing-gown

and dressing-jacket. Cut all pieces having large

double perforations lengthwise of the material

Fia. 15.- A But-

terick Pattern.

HOME DRESSMAKING

431

To Make. - Gather sleeve along top between

notches. Join parts with notches marked.

Try on, bringing front edges of fronts together,

Pattern Pieces of Fig. 15.

making alterations, if necessary, at seams. Sew

bands of contrasting material to neck and front

edges of garment, and sleeve-bands to sleeves.

For the dressing- jacket two and three -eighth

yards of material forty -four inches wide, or two

and three-quarter yards thirty-six inches wide,

with one and three-eighth yards contrasting

material twenty inches or more wide for bands,

win be required.

This pattern is also capable of development

into a useful theatre coat when satin, one of the

heavier silks, or cloth in some pretty art shade

is used. The kimono shape has long been in

favour for evening wear, and its popularity is

by no means on the wane. When used in this

way the garment should be neatly lined with

satin, silk, or polonaise. The sleeves may either

be gathered into a cufi or allowed to fall loose

according to indi^ddual taste. Needless to say,

it should be finished off very neatly, and the

facings of neck and sleeves should be interlined

with stiff muslin or other kindred material.

Note. - When ordering any of the patterns

illustrated from the Butterick Publishing Com-

pany, mention The Woman's Book, and quote

number appearing under illustration.

Useful Measurements

12 inches .

3 feet

36 inches .

100 centimetres

109

1 metre .

8 finger-lengths

1 foot

1 yard

1 metre

1 yard

about 40 inches

1 yard

HOME MILLINERY

This chapter has been written for the benefit of the amateur and home worker, and not for that

of the woman who wishes to earn her Uving as a milUner. For this reason, therefore, only the prin-

ciples of simple miUinery, well witliin the scope of the average woman who is obliged to eke out a small

dress allowance by making or trimming most of her own or her children's hats, are detailed. How

to make a prettj' bow or rosette, how to sew on feathers, how to make and sew in a head-lining,

and to line the brim of a hat, are all fii-st steps in millinery which must be mastered by the homo

worker, and by means of numerous illustrations and diagrams wo have endeavoured to explain

these essential preliminsu-ies in as clear a manner as possible.

A description of the more intricate work, such as the making of wire frames, &c., has been omitted,

as a course of special lessons under a teacher would be necessary to acquire proficiency in this.

It is not within the scope of a book of this kind to deal with the latest styles in regard to hats, for

fashion varies to such an extent that even the latest style in millinery at the time of writing would

probably be demode by the time this article had passed through the printer's hands. There are

certain principles of milUnery, however, which cannot alter. Tliese are fully dealt with ; and if they

are carefully studied and successfully put to practical use by the home worker she will find it qviite

easy to adapt them to the prevailing modes. The knack of arranging flowers and other trimmings

can scarcely be taught. It comes as the result of natural taste and artistic instinct. We cannot

all be originators of artistic ideas in millinery, but at least we can endeavour to copy the ideas of

others.

This can be done by carefully studying the shop windows and fashion papers, noting the prettiest

styles and endeavouring to apply them to our own needs. In this way and by constant and perse-

vering practice, artistic efforts may be achieved by every woman who puts her heart into her work.

MILLINERY EQUIPMENT

Apart from the special requirements for each

hat the necessary implements and material for

home millinery are few and inexpensive.

If millinery is undertaken regularly at home

it will be well to lay in a supply of the following,

and then it will not be necessary to buy small

quantities each time a hat has to

be made or re-trimmed.

(1) Millinery phers. Is. per pair,

used for cutting wire instead of

scissors.

(2) Millinery or straw needles of

various sizes.

(3) Stoel pins, long and slender,

with sharp points.

(4) Silk wire, Ifd. a ring ; satin

wire, 2d. per yard, black and white.

(5) Ribbon wire for wiring ribbon

bows. Id. per card, black and white,

and cotton wire, Jd. to 6d. per ring.

(6) Black and white sarcenet for

head-linings, Is. 3d. per yard, or thin cotton.

(7) Black and white china ribbon for running

through head-linings, id. per yard.

(8) Soft and stiff muslin in both black and

white, 2|d. to 6|d. per yard.

(9) Buckram, 6fd., or spartra. Is. Jd. per yard,

for making shapes, bandeaux, &c.

(10) Strong sewing cotton, Nos. 16 or 20, or

sewing silk in black and white, and any special

colour to suit the hat that is being trimmed.

The home milUner will also be well advised

to keep a piece-box into which odds and ends of

lace, silk, ribbon, &c., can be put. Little pieces

of this description will often bo found of service

and be the means of saving many a penny.

HEAD-LININGS

Every hat or bonnet should have a head-

lining to make it tidy, and also to prevent the

rough straw or edges catching the hair. This

should bo put in before any trimming is com-

menced, although in the case of the brim re-

quiring lining this would naturally come first.

A head-lining is generally made of black or

white sarcenet, but any light weight and soft

finished quality of silk, such as thin glac6, China

or pong6o, will do equally well. In very light

lace or net hats a net or chiffon lining can be put

in, while in cheap hats a soft cotton or mufilin

will serve the piu-pose. For dark hats, black

or a colour to tone with the material must be

used, while white is the best for light-coloured

432

HOME MILLINERY

433

hatB, although sometimes a colour to match the

straw is used for the crown. This is sometimes

necessary if the straw is of a very transparent

make. Odds and ends of silk and ribbon may

often be utilised for this purpose.

The lining for a hat should be cut in two

pieces, a round or square-shaped piece for the

crown and a long-shaped piece to go round the

sides. The side lining may be cut either on the

cross or on the straight. For the breadth

measure the height of the crown and two inches

over, and for the length measure the inside

circle of the crown, allowing one and a half

inches over for the join. Commence to sew the

lining in at the centre of the back either by

stabbing through the crown or sewing it in aa

in fig. 1, sewing with an overcasting stitch

Fio. 1.

from right to left. The stitches must not show

on the right side. Where the head-lining meets

at the back slip the needle through the lining

and slip-stitch or hem the two sides together.

Make a narrow nem on the edge of the lining, and

draw this up with narrow China ribbon after the

hat has been trimimed.

The crown top lining may be either square or

round and of a size to fit the hat. Line it with

tissue paper, and either paste it in with a very

little paste or sew in \vdth a tacking stitch, i.e.

a long stitch inside and a very small stitch on

the outside of the crown.

Tlie lining of a bonnet is put in in the same

way, only the ends of the lining are not joined

together, but hemmed down at the base of the

bonnet.

If the home milliner does not wish to take the

trouble of making her own head-linings, most

of the large drapery estabUshments sell them

ready for sewing in. Tliey will cost from 6d.

to 9d.

BANDEAUX

A bandeau is used to make a hat fit more

comfortably, to make it smaller or larger, or to

raise it off the head in one part or another. It

is also used for sewing on trimmings.

A bandeau is generally made of buckram or

spartra wired at the edges and then covered

with velvet or silk. Velvet is largely used for

the purpose, as it clings to the hair. For a very

light hat three thicknesses of stiff net may be

used instead of buckram, wired at the edges and

then bound with silk or velvet cut on the cross.

It can then be covered with tulle or chiffon.

This will not of course be so strong aa the buck-

ram bandeau.

To Make a Round Bandeau. - This is used to

make a hat either smaller or larger and also to

raise it off the head. Cut buckram or spartra on

the cross one and a half inches deep and of a

size to fit the head, allowing one inch for joining.

Join into a circle and wire top and bottom with

silk wire, using a button-hole or wire stitch,

(see fig. 2). Be careful to lap the wire one inch

Fig. 2.

at all joins. Then cut some velvet on the cross

four inches deep and of a length to go round the

bandeau, allowing for turnings. Place the strip

of velvet inside the bandeau with a half-ii^ch

turning above the edge. Tack in position

through velvet and buckram (fig. 3). Then bring

FiQ. 3.

the velvet up on the right side, turn in the raw

edges, and shp -stitch the two together. This

bandeau should be stab-stitched into the hat

after the head-Uning is sewn in.

Black velvet is most generally used for sill

bandeaux, although they can be made of a colour

to match the hat.

A Small Bandeau - Tliis is made in the same

way as the circular bandeau. It is used to

tilt the hat off the head in the front, back or

SIDE QANOe/vu

FRONT BANDEAU

sides as the shape requires. Any trimming

that is desired may be attached to it.

A Flat Bandeau. - This is one of the most

fashionable bandeaux of the present day. Cut

434

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

a circle in buckram ten inches across and cut

away the centre two inches from the outer edge.

Wire round both edges the same as in the other

bandeaux. Cover with velvet on one side only.

Turn the outer edge over to the wrong side and

BOW it down, then notch the inner edge, and

catch down the notches on the wrong side of the

buckram (fig. 4). Place the bandeau with the

raw edges next the hat and tack it into position.

An easy way to find correct position is first to

Fio. 4.

place the bandeau on the head (velvet side next

the hair), and then to put the hat on the top.

Take off hat. holding the bandeau in its proper

position.

VELVET

Most people know that there is a pile on velvet;

that is to say, one way will feel rough and the

other smooth when it is stroked with the hand.

In cloth the pile or smooth way always runs

down, but in velvet it is just the reverse, as it

runs up. There are two ways of finding out

the up and down of velvet - by feeling it or

by looking at it. Either pass your hand very

gently over the surface and feel how the pile

runs, or hold it up to the light and see how the

light afTects it. It should appear dark ; if it

looks light it is the wrong way of the material.

Velveteen should not be used in millinery as

it is too heavy.

The greatest care must be taken in cutting

and placing velvet to have the pile running the

same way in each piece, or one piece will look

lighter than another.

When covering a hat the velvet should shade

from the front to the back. It is always best to

cut out all the pieces together, and then a mistake

is not so likely to be made.

When lining or binding a hat with velvet the

brim should be held with another piece of velvet

to prevent the fingers marking it.

When fixing two pieces of velvet together

needles or fine steel pins should be used, as the

ordinary pins would make marks on the smooth

surface. It should always be tackod or sewn

with silk, as cotton will also mark it, and the

tacking threewls should not be pulled out

roughly, but cut here and there with a pair of

scissors and then gently drawn out.

To Cut Velvet or Silk on the Cross. - Lay the

material on the table with the right side upper-

most and the selvedges running the length of

the table. Take the bottom left-hand corner

and fold it across to the right until the selvedge

threads run straight with the weft threads

(fig. 6), and cut through the fold. The fold

Fig. 5.

is the exact cross of the material : if the exact

cross is not cut the bind or whatever the cross-

way pieces are losed for will not set smoothly

when put on the hat.

To Join Silk and Velvet on the Cross. - Cut the

strips of the material off the cross-cut end and

of the width required. The joins in a crossway

piece of material always run on a slant, which

Fig. 6.

means that they are joined on the straight of

the material. Place the two selvedges or two

slanting pieces together so that a pointed and a

blunt end are together as in figs. 6 and 7. Velvet

is better joined by hand with small back-stitches

Fig. 7.

made about half an inch down from the selvedge.

Care must be taken that the dtirk shade in both

pieces runs the same way. Silk may be joined

by machine.

To Hem Velvet. - There is a special stitch for

hemming velvet called the " Catch Stitch."

Tvu"n down the velvet once and commence

sowing at the left-hand corner. First take a

stitch on the turning without going through to

the other side, then a very small stitch just

below the turning taking up a mere thread of

HOME MILLINERY

435

the back of the velvet. No stitches must show

on the right side (fig. 8).

Roll Hemming Velvet. - In this method the

velvet is turned down twice and the stitches do

Fia. 8.

not show. Turn down less than quarter of an

inch to the wrong side, then turn over again

quarter of an inch, thus hiding the raw edges.

With a needle and silk take up one or two

threads on the back of the velvet and a long

stitch on the under part of the double fold.

Draw the thread as tight as possible without

puckering, when the stitches should be invisible

and the hem have a round appearance.

A Rouleau. - Tliis is generally put on the

under-brim of a hat about one inch from the

edge, to cover the hat and to give the brim a

more finished and softer appearance. A velvet

roiileau a shade darker than the hat itself always

looks well.

Take a crossway strip of velvet about an inch

wide and tiirn the raw edges over to the wrong

side, making them meet in the centre. Lace

Fia. 9.

them together, taking a stitch first under one

side and then under the other (fig. 9).

To Make a French Fold. - Cut a piece of velvet

on the cross three times the width the fold is

to be when finished. Fold over one edge, then

fold over the other edge, turning one edge over

more than the other (fig. 10).

Next turn over the narrow turning halfway on

to the wider turning, so that no raw edges show.

Fia. 10.

slip-stitch this fold down, taking great care that

the stitches do not show through on the right

side.

Velvet Ears. - Cross-cut ends of velvet are

frequently used in the making of bows, as the

material is too thick to allow of many loops.

They are also economical, as they use up the small

pieces of velvet.

There are several different ways of making

these : -

Fig. 11. - Take a strip of velvet, tvirn the

long point over to meet the shorter one, pile to

pile, and stitch across the open side. Then turn

FlQ. 11.

Fig. 12.

inside out, push the blunt end of a pair of

scissors into the point, and fix in position with a

few slip-stitches. Hem the remainder of the

strip on both sides.

Fig. 12. - Take a straight end of velvet

and turn over one of the points crossways pile

to pile. Sew the side edges together and turn

inside out, pushing the point weU out.

Or take a cross-cut end and Une it with a

piece of velvet or silk the same shape. Put

the two right sides together and sew round

with the exception of the straight end. Tvirn

inside out and finish as before.

OTHER PRELIMINARIES

Wiring the Edge of a Hat. - ^The edge of a hat

is usually wired to keep the brim in shape.

When a hat in unhned and without a binding or

facing of any kind, wire of the same colour as

the straw should be used. A medium-sized satin

wire is best, as there is more thickness for the

stitches to sink into and be hidden. The wire

should be placed at from a quarter to half an

inch from the edge of the brim on the under or

wrong side of the straw.

The wire, when possible, should be stab-stitched

on ; that is to say, the stitches taken through

from one side to the other so as not to bend the

hat or wire. The size of the stitch will depend

upon the kind of straw ; a smaller stitch will be

required for the finer makes than for those of

a coarser quality. In machine-made hats there

is often a double row of straw round the edge

between which the wire can be slipped, and then

the straw can be caught down to keep the wiro

in position. Some of the finer makes of straw,

such as Panama and Leghorn, are strong enough

to enable the wire to be simply sewn to one of

the braids without taking the needle tlirough to

the ^v^oug side.

Care must be taken to make the stitches aa

invisible as possible, and strong silk of the same

colour as the wire should be used for sewing.

436

THE WO^IAN'S BOOK

To join the wire allow an extra inch for over-

lapping and cut off with the pincers. Unwind

the silk of both ends and push back the cotton

under covering, trimming it off where it is not

required. Then re-wind the silk over the two

ends together tightly and neatly.

In all good hats, and especially those of a fine

make of straw, it is usual to cover the wire with

a rouleau of velvet, silk or tulle, unless the brim

of the hat is lined entirely. In tliis case the

cotton-covered wire will serve the purpose, and

it may be sewn on with a loose button-hole

stitch.

To Bind the Edge of a Hat. - Whatever material

is used it should be cut on the cross. First

wire the edge of the brim, unless the hat is very

firm and does not require the extra stiffening ;

then cover the wire with a piece of musUn cut

on the cross to prevent it showing through and

marking the velvet or whatever material the

binding is made of. Cut the material twice the

width required plus one inch for turnings. Join

neatly on the cross and get the necessary length.

Tack down half an inch turning on each side

of the strip and fold the bind in half. Slip a

pair of scissors inside, and with the blunt point

stretch the fold to enable the bind to he flat

on the round of the hat. Then pin in position,

arranging that a join does not come in the front,

and tack round the outer edge through the hat

and the two thicknesses of material, rather

stretching it on. Slip-stitch the bind on to the

hat first on the upper and then on the under side

of the rim.

Linings for Hat-Brims. - At the present time

tulle, net, soft silk, satin, and velvet are the most

fashionable for lining the under-brims of hats,

but of course any soft material can be used.

Figs. 13, 14, 15 illustrate three very pretty

methods of preparing a lining, and the material

for these can be cut either on the straight or on

the cross.

For fig. 13 measure round the edge of the hat

and allow half as much again for the fulness.

Fig. 13.

Cut the width the widest measurement of the

brim, plus one and a half inches for turnings.

Put in gatherings at equal distances apart,

and fix on to hat ; by the outer and inner

gathering sometimes the centre gathering also

has to be fixed. Slip-stitch the join neatly

together.

In fig. 14 allow same width round as in fig. 13,

but in the width the tucks must be allowed for.

For each tuck allow twice its width.

In fig. 15 cord is required. The cord can bo

bought in many sizes at a penny a bundle in

black and white. Cut material the same size

i/i^'^M^y

Fia. 14.

as for fig. 14. The cord can either be put in after

the tucks are made or the tucks may be made

over the cord.

Plain Under-Brims made of satin, velvet, or

silk are very much used nowadays. These

should be cut out and put on in the same way

Fia. 15.

as in covering the under-brim of a buckram

shape (see p. 440).

Ruching. - A niching may bo made of silk,

net, tulle, ribbon, lace, &c., and consists of a

succession of box-pleats made tdong the length

of the material and fastened down in the centr(\

When made of single box-pleata tliree times

the length of the finished ruching will be required,

for double box-pleats five times, and for treble

seven times as much. Thus, to make one yard

of ruching of double box-pleats, five yards of

ribbon or other material would be required.

The single box-pleat is formed by making a

pleat in the ribbon to the right and another to

the left, leaving one to one and a half inches

between, and making the inner folds of each

meet at the back, but this simple pleating is

seldom used for millinery purposes.

For a double box-pleated ruche start by making

a pleat towards you and then another exactly

on tho top ; make another ploat away from you

at about one and a half inches distance and

another exactly underneath. Tack the pleats

in position along tho centre, and continue thus

until the required length is made.

Care must be taken to make the pleats of

equal width.

The treble box-pleat is made with three pleats

to either side.

To give the ruche a lighter appearance raise

the top pleat on each side and tack them together

a little way in from the edge (fig. 16).

HOME MILLINERY

437

When a ruching is made of silk the edge is

usually miofihed or frayed out. The silk must

be cut on the cross in strips four and a half or

five inches in depth, and then joined to get the

required length. A yard of silk will make a

ruching for a fair-sized hat. Fray out the edges

with a pin to the extent of a quarter or half an

inch, drawing out the threads the way of the

silk. Make up the ruching as above, and when

the edges of the pleats are tacked together this

will form a very light and feathery-looking

trimming and one which is very serviceable.

Quilling consists of a number of pleats placed

nearly on the top of each other and fixed along

one edge. It is used principally for the fronts

of babies' bonnets, and can be made of ribbon,

chiffon, or lace.

A Chiffon Quilling. - Cut a piece of chiffon

twice the depth required, fold it in half, and

pin to keep it in position. Place the strip

lengthways on the table and commence pleating

at the end farthest from you. Make one pleat

about half an inch deep away from you,

make another the same size but underneath the

last pleat, so that one pleat is on the top and

one underneath. Make the next pleat on the top,

placing it so that it covers up half of the first

pleat made. Continue thiis first pleating on the

top and then underneath, making the pleats all

the same size and placing each one to centre of

the last. Sew along the raw edge to keep pleats

in position.

THE MAKING OF BOWS AND ROSETTES

General Hints. - The ribbon must be handled

very lightly if the bow is to have a fresh appear-

ance. The novice usually errs in experimenting

too much, with the result that the daintiness

which marks first-class millinery is altogether

wanting.

When making bows for the first time it is as

well to commence by practising on strips of

stiffish muslin, or old ribbon, or even with tissue

paper, and then when the knack of making loops

has been acquired the new ribbon may be

handled without fear.

If the bow is in ribbon it is better, if possible,

to keep it in one piece ; it can then be unpicked,

ironed out, and renovated and made up in a

different way when wanted. This can of course

only be done with good ribbon. In any case,

it is better not to cut the ribbon in separate

loops.

Do not be too sparing in the quantity of the

ribbon used or you will spoil the effect. A bow

should have a nice firm and rounded appearance

when finished, and in order to obtain this the

two ends of each loop must be pleated in opposite

directions. The pleated ends must be secured

by winding them ro\ind and round with strong

cotton or hnen thread.

When pulUng the loops into position do so by

placing the forefinger into each loop, being care-

ful not to flatten it down or it will be wanting

in that smart and stylish appearance which is

so necessary.

The number and size of the loops will depend

upon the style of bow that is required, but all

the loops and ends must appear to come from

one centre ; there must only be one root to the

bow, and that must be as tight as possible. A

single stitch or two may be taken where necessary

to keep the loops in place,, but these must always

be under a fold and invisible. It may sometimes

be found better to mount the loops on a small

tab of stiff net.

Although there are many different styles of

bows, and fasMons are apt to vary in this respect,

if you succeed in making one shape well you will

be able to make them all with very little diffi-

culty.

Wiring. - When the loops are long and it is

wished to have them standing out well in a

certain direction, the ribbon should be wired.

The wire may be pinned down the centre of the

ribbon on the wrong side, made up with the

loops, and then fixed in position with one or two

stitches taken on the back of the loops. Ribbon

wire is the best to use ; or a fine lace wire the

same colour as the ribbon may be neatly tacked

along the centre of the ribbon on the wrong side.

A Bow for the Back or Front of a Hat. - From

two to two and a quarter yards of ribbon about

six inches wide will be required. Commence at

one end of the ribbon, leaving four or five inches

Fia. 18.

to form an end, then pleat into small pleats and

twist round with cotton (fig. 17). A needle can

be used if desired to keep the fastening tight.

Then measure the length of loop required and

438

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

pleat the other end in opposite direction from

the first pleats (fig. 18). Make three more loops

in the same way, and arrange them bo that two

of the loops lie in an opposite direction to the

Fia. 19.

other two, then leave an end to match the one

left at the beginning (figs. 19 and 20). The tie

over should be made of a separate piece of

ribbon, and can be large or small according to

Fio. 20.

fashion and on the straight or cross of the

material.

Bow for the Side of a Hat. - About three yards

of ribbon seven inches wide will be required.

Make in the same way as the above, only it is

usual to have all loops and no ends. The loops

which lie towards the front of the hat may be a

little shorter than those which he towards the

back. The tie over should be rather broad, and is

better put on after the bow has been fixed to the

hat. Unless the ribbon used is very stiff, a bow

like this would require to be wired.

Bows of Piece Silk, Velvet, &c. - A bow made

of silk cut from the piece is generally cheaper

than one made of ribbon. A fairly large-sized

bow can be made with one and a half or

two yards of silk at Is. lid. per yard. The silk

should be cut on the cross in strips about nine

inches wide and then joined together in one

length. Hem the edges with sewing silk the

same colour and then make up the bow the same

way as in ribbon. If the bow requires wiring,

make a fold at the edge of the silk and stitch

along twice to form a casing, then slip in a silk

•Trire before making up the bow.

When bows are made of piece velvet the

material must bo cut on the cross and joined in

the same way as for a silk bow. When making

the loops, fold and pleat through two thicknesses,

as if done separately as in ribbon the wTong side

of the velvet would show too much. Velvet bows

are often lined with silk or ribbon of the same

or a contrasting coloiu" ; when this is done the

bow should be made up as a ribbon bow.

Lace Bows. - Laco insertion made into a largo

bow makes a very effective trimming for a hat.

The lace should always be wired before making

it up. Use fine lace wire to match in colour if

the lace is fine, and tlie ordinary silk N^-ire for

a strong make and when a very firm bow is

required. Fix the wire into position with a loose

button-hole stitch along both sides of the laco

on the wrong side and across the ends, which

are generally mitred. Make up the bow in the

same way as a ribbon bow.

The Butterfly Bow. - This kind of bow should

be made fairly small, as it is supposed to repre-

sent a butterfly. It consists of two loops and

two upstanding ends in the

centre. Make it in the same

way as other bows, only com-

mence with a loop instead of

an end. Malce a second loop

the same size and lying in

the opposite direction, and

then a tliird exactly in the

middle of these two. Sew the

end under and stab stitch through the root to

make it very secure. Place a tie-over through

the third loop, pulling tlie loop sharply up, and

cut slanting across to form the two ends.

The Alsatian Bow. - This is made in a slightly

different manner from other bows, and when

finished it has a very flat appearance. It is

made with two loops each side and a broad

Butterfly Bow.

Alsatian Bow.

tic-over, and is used for sailor hats of all sizes,

for ttu-ned-down mushroom shapes, and also

for niu-ses' bonnets.

Cut off two lengths of ribbon, one length four

inches longer than the other. Take erch piece

separately, and fold the cut edges to the centre

so that they just touch. Then lay the one on

the top of the other, and pleat them together

once in the centre, stitch into position, and

cover the stitches with a broad tie-over.

To Finish the Ends of Ribbon. - This may bo

done in the following different ways : -

(1) By cutting them across diagonally.

(2) By leaving them straight and fraying out

some of the silk to form a fringe. If a small

piece of the solvedgo is cut off at each side this

can be done quite easily.

(3) By making a wide hem at the ends and

three or four pin tucks (very small) just below it.

(4) By cutting the end like a fish tail.

(5) By embroidering or braiding a small

design on the ribbon.

Lace Quills. - These are usually made of piece

HOME MILLINERY

439

lace. Pieces left over from making the yoke of

a blouse or dress will often be enough to make

very pretty quills. A piece of lace nine inches

long and about two inches wide will

make one of a nice size.

First of all cut out a paper pattern

the shape of a qmll, place it on the lace,

taking care that the pattern of the lace

comes well in the centre of the quUl.

Cut round pattern, leaving quarter-inch

turnings, wire all round with silk wire,

turning the quarter-inch turnings over

the wire. Leave about three inches

of wire at both ends and twist them

together to make a stem. Cover the

edge of quiU on the right side with

fancy braid, rucliing, straw, jet, or

any other fancy trimming.

LaceQmlL Rosettes.- There are two kinds of

icsettes, those formed of a succession

of loops of ribbon or ribbon velvet, and those

made of silk, tulle, or net, &c.

To Make a Ribbon Rosette. - ^Rosettes can be

made of any width ribbon from one inch to sis

inches wide ; whatever the width the making is

exactly the same.

Commence as in fig. 21 and make a loop,

then make a second loop quarter of an inch from

Fia. 21.

the first one, and continue making loops in this

way until there are a sufficient number for a

rosette of the size reqioired (fig. 22).

Cut a small circle of net or buclo-am and wire

round, then fix the loops to this, as in fig. 23,

beginning at the outer edge and working towards

Fio. 23.

Ra. 21.

the centre. It should have a nice round com-

pact appearance when finished (fig. 24).

Cross way Silk Rosette. - Cut the silk on the

cross the width required and join pieces together

until you get sufficient length. Fold the edges

together and gather along with a strong cotton.

Draw up and fix on a round foundation of net

or buckram, commencing at the outside edge and

working towards the centre (figs. 25 and 26).

Tulle Rosette. - The tulle should be used on

the straight. For a fairly large rosette take

one yard of tulle and fold it lengthways. Make

the first fold the depth required, then make

another fold on top, then another and another,

and so on until all the material is used, pleating

it up Uke a fan (fig. 27). Pin the folds into posi-

tion and put in a gathering tliread at the lower

edge. Draw up and sew together or fix on

foundation. The rosette will now have rather a

fiat appearance, as the folds wLU cling together,

so pull it out to make it look round and fluffy.

Rosette of Narrow Ribbon. - These should be

moiinted on a small round of stiff net or muslin.

Tack the ribbon on this in small loops, commenc-

ing at the outside edge and working towards the

centre. Make the loops stand up as much as

possible, and let those in the noddle be a Uttle

longer and higher than those at the edges. Tliis

makes a neat tight-looking rosette suitable for

the trimming of children's bonnets and hats.

SEWING ON TRIMMINGS

All trimmings must be sewn on with as few

stitches as possible and these few stitches must

be firm and strong. The sewing must never be

overdone ; if too many stitches are used, the

trimmings will have a set and ugh' appearance,

instead of being light and graceful. This is

especially noticeable in the sewing on of flowers

and feathers.

Feathers and Quills. - First sew the quill of the

feather on to a small piece of stiff net or buckram

440

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

(fig. 28). Then pin it in position on the hat vrith

a hat-pin. Do not put the pin through the

feather itaelf, but put it first into the hat, then

over the feather and into the hat again. \Vlien

making a hat for yourself tliis sliould be done

before the glass. Then having fixed

the feather in the right position,

stab-stitch it through the net,

taking the needle backwards and

forwards until the feather is quite

secure. Fix the tip of the feather

in position with a tie-stitch. First

tie the cotton on to the tip of the

feather (fastening it on to one of

the cotton loops at the back if it

is an ostrich plume), leaving an

end, then take a stitch through the

Flo. 28. ^^^ ^^^ bring the needle back again.

Tie the two ends of the cotton

together in a firm knot and cut off. The feather

must not on any account be tied tightly

down.

Flowers must be arranged as naturally and

as artistically as possible. Small flowers, such

as violets, cowslips, forget-me-nots, button roses,

&c., look best when arranged in clusters and

the large flowers in sprays. Cut off any un-

necessary length of stem ; bend up the remainder

and sew over and over on to the hat. Fix the

flowers themselves into position with a tie-stitch.

The heavier flowers should be mounted on a

wire.

In wiring, carry the wire up the length of the

stem to the flower itself, then wind it round the

stem and bring it down to the bottom again.

When flowers are wired they do not require so

much sewing to the hat, as they keep so much

firmer.

When many flowers are used it is better to

make them up first into a spray or wTeath,

using fine wire to fasten them together, and

then tie -stitch them here and there on to

the hat.

Ruching. - Sew this on to the hat from behind

or take the stitches through the pleats where

they will not be seen.

A Rouleau of Velvet, &c. - This should be

slip-stitched on to the hat with a fine needle and

silk the same colour as the hat.

Bows. - Put the needle through the back part

of the tie-over and stab-stitch it through the

hat. Repeat tliia several times until the root

of the bow is secure. Then arrange the loops

becomingly, handling thorn lightly, and fix them

in position with invisible tie-stitches.

A RIVER OR COUNTRY HAT

Material Required. - A hat shape, IJ yards

muslin embroidery 20 inches wide or 1 yard 36

inches wide, 1 yard plain muslin, trinuning

of ribbon or flowers.

Making. - Buy a simple hat shape in buckram

or spartra similar to fig. 29. Spartra is the

better material of the two, as it does not spoil

so readily with damp. Although it is possible

to make these shapes at home, they can now be

bought so cheaply that it is scarcely worth the

trouble. A hat for the river or country should

bo trimmed in such a way that it will not got out

of order quickly, therefore it is better to have

something quite simple, and if colour is intro-

duced it should be capable of change to suit

Fig. 29.

various costumes. Nothing is prettier for the

purpose than white embroidered muslin, which

can easily be washed or cleaned when it be-

comes soiled.

Lay the embroidered muslin on the table with

the right side uppermost and place the hat shape

on the top with the front to one of the corners,

so as to have the material for the front on the

cross. Cut round, allowing an extra half-inch for

turnings. Remove the hat, mark the size of the

crown in the centre, and cut out, again allow-

ing half an inch for turnings. (In order to get

the exact size of the brim and crown a piece of

paper maj' be pinned on to the shape, cut out,

and then used as a pattern.) This piece is for

covering the upper brim, so cut a piece the same

size for underneath. Line the two brim pieces

with plain muslin and tack together. Slip the

material for the upper brim over the hat and

notch the inner edge to fit the base of the crown.

Tack the notches down to the crown of the hat.

If the brim of the hat bends down very much

it will be necessary to cut the material at the

back and make a seam to make it lie smoothly.

Stretch the embroidery well over the brim of the

hat, fold the turning over the edge, and pin to

keep it in position. Catch-stitch down to the

\vire or buckram shape with even stitches. Lay

the under-brim piece of embroidery on to the

shape and fix into position wth pins. Notch the

inner rim and sow the notches up to the inside

of crown. Make a turning on the wTong side of

the outer rim and slip-stitch round to edges of

top covering, commencing at the back of the hat.

The edge may bo further finished with a rouleau

of velvet or a narrow braid.

To Cover the Crown. - Cut a round of the em-

broidery eighteen to twenty inches in diameter,

line it with plain muslin and gather round the

edges with strong cotton (fig. 30). Draw up and

slip over the crown of the hat. Tack round edges

close to the brim, and put a few stitches in the

crown to keep fulness in position. Or, if pre-

ferred, the crown of the hat may be covered quite

HOME MILLINERY

441

plainly by stretching it down to the base with

the fulness arranged in email pleats. Put in

head-lining before trimming.

FiQ. 30.

Trimming. - This may be made of ribbon or

flowers, or a coloured scarf may be tied round

and finished with a bow and ends at the side.

Fig. 31 shows a trimming of ribbon, and this

ria. 31

could easily be made up separately from the hat,

and if two or three were made up in different

colours of ribbon they could simply be fastened

to the hat with a strong pin and changed when

required to suit different costumes. A wreath

of pretty flowers or of flowers and ribbon could

be used in the same way.

FLOWER TOQUES

The " flower toque " is an almost universal

favovu-ite for dainty wear, and when properly

made looks very smart and pretty.

A variety of flowers can be used for making

a toque of the kind, and they may be chosen in

accordance with the season - primroses, violets or

hyacinths for the spring, roses for the summer,

geraniums for the autumn. For the last-named

season very pretty little toques have been made

of grapes ; in fact, the home worker will find

that there is abundant material to hand with

which to carry out pretty ideas, and the more

her dexterity increases, the more ideas she will

get. The flowers can be used either with or with-

out foliage.

The foundation of the toque may be either

of wire (green wire if it can be procured) or

stiff millinery net.

Although the directions given below apply

specially to the making of a toque of roses, the

method is very much the same whatever kind of

flower is used.

A Rose Toque. - Required. - A wire or net

shape, roses, foliage, green tulle or net, ribbon op

velvet.

Method. - Choose a shape that suits you well ;

it should be rather small in size. Prepare it first

by swathing it or covering it over with green

tuUe or net of the same tone as the foUage used.

Then commence sewing on the flowers. Cut the

stems of the roses and leaves quite short so that

they can be sewn flat to the shape. Commence

at the top of the crown and sew the roses tight

through the centre to the shape. Place them

close together until the whole of the top ia

Fig. 32.

covered with flowers, introducing a few leaves

if wished (fig. 32).

If there is a distinct turned-up brim to the

toque, tliis might be covered with foliage only

or with foliage and tulle, and a twist of tulle

should be put romid between the crown and

brim. Or if the brim is very narrow and bend-

ing downwards, it might be covered with dark

green or black velvet, which is always becoming

next the face.

The toque may be left plain, or finished off

Fia. 33.

with a smart bow of ribbon or velvet at the side

(fig. 33), or with loops of narrow velvet and a

442

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

standing-up spray of roses, or with an artificial

oeprey, according to what is most becoming.

FUR IN MILLINERY

Fur was never more fashionable than it is

to-day, and it is employed largely both in mil-

linery and dressmaking.

The fact of its being so much in demand has

raised its price considerably, and it is not every

one who can afford a new hat or toque of the

most fasliionable shape every year. But it is

wonderful what can be done with odds and ends

of fur, and how, in millinery especially, they can

be utilised and made into something quite

stylish. All small pieces of fur should be kept

as well as old fur ties and muffs, as they can

often be made into a toque when good for

nothing else. Or, if not sxiflficient to make the

whole hat, they might at least cover the

brim, while the crown could be made of cloth

or velvet to match the costiune that is being

worn.

The Cutting of Fur. - Fur should always be cut

on the •wrong side and with a sharp-pointed

knife. Place the fur on the table with the skin

side uppermost and mark with a coloured pencil

Cutting Fur.

or chalk where you wish the cutting to come.

Then get some one to hold the fur stretched out

while you cut through by the marked Une.

To Join Fur. - Place the two pieces with right

sides together, being careful that the fur all lies

one way, or the join will show. Place a piece of

cardboard two or three inches long between the

pieces, with the edge close to where the join is

to be. Push down the hairs of the fur so as to

leave edges of skin clear to sew through. Then

overcast the two pieces together with a fur-

sewing needle and strong sowing cotton, No. 24

or 30. Make the stitches rather deep and close

together and draw them tight, moving along the

cardboard as rfriuircd.

To Make a Fur Toque. - Required. - Pieces of

fur, a wire shape, brown tulle, brown satin.

Method. - A wire frame of the turban shape

is the one most suitable for a fur toque. First

cover the frame all over with a thin brown

lining or net, then prepare a strip of fur wide

enough to cover the brim and long enough to go

round. Join it into a circle and place it on the

frame, oi'ranging that the join comes where

it will not show. Pin it in position and then

tack with a turning over the top and underneath

the brim. The under port of the brim wliich

comes next the hair is generally made of brown

satin, as it is cooler for the head, and also because

fvir would BO quickly wear if it were on that part.

Then take a piece of fur large enough to cover

the crown, and do not cut it up more than is

necessary, as next year, when remodelling, the

hat will be much easier to arrange if there ia

Fur Toque.

some allowance for alteration. Stretch the fur

smoothly over the crown, arranging any fulness

in small pleats at the sides. Tack it in position

from the wrong side as far as possible to avoid

catching in the hair with the cotton. A fold of

tulle or chiffon should be placed between the

brim and crown to cover edges. Finish off with

a pretty feather mount, a handsome quill, a

rosette, or other ornament, according to fasluon

and individual taste, or, if preferred, the toque

may be left perfectly plain.

THE MAKING OF STRAW HATS

These are made either by hand or machine.

As the home-made straw hat will not be subjected

to the stiffening and blocking process that the

bought one receives, it will be more suc';essful

if made over a wire frame, wearing better and

keeping its shape longer than if made without

this support.

As said before, shapes can be bought so cheaply

- the average price for a wire one being Is., or,

if made to order. Is. 6d. to 2s. - ^that it does not

repay the trouble to make one, and the amateur

always finds this a difficult job.

It wU be wise to commence with a simple

shape similar to fig. 34, ■which has no peculiari-

ties in form, and if this is a success something

more difficult may be attempted, and a close

examination of any straw hat will show you how

to proceed.

Choose a frame which suits you well, light in

weight and of the size you wish. The straw for

covering is sold in bundles of twelve yards, in

any colour and many different styles, and the

HOME MILLINERY

443

price will vary from Is. to 6s. per bundle, accord-

ing to quality and make. Two bundles will

cover a medium-sized hat, or three might cover

two smaller ones. Choose a nice phable straw,

as it will be easier to work with than the stiffer

makes.

If the straw is very stiff and dry it is a good

plan to moisten it first by wrapping it in a damp

cloth and leaving it over-night. This wiU enable

it to be stretched and pulled more readily without

breaking. If the straw is a kind that unravels

quickly, the end should be wound round with

strong thread of the same colour before com-

mencing.

To Cover the Brim. - First pin the straw

neatly round the edge on the upper side of the

brim, starting at the back and fixing it to the

outside wire. The straw must be perfectly flat

and lie easily. Sew on to the outside wire,

taking small stitches on the right or upper side

and larger underneath. In fixing the second

row do not cut off the straw, but let it continue

on. The second row is sewn to the inside edge

of the first row of straw. Continue sewing

round and round until the crown is reached,

lapping each row one quarter of an inch over the

Fia. 34.

edge of previous row hiding the stitches as far

as possible beneath the pattern of straw (fig. 34).

If the brim is wider at the front than at the

back, it should be M'idened by a few extra rows

of straw put on and sloped away under the outer

row at the back or sides of the hat.

Cover the under-brim in the same way, starting

at the back and working up to the head-line.

When fixing the straw on under-brim the needle

should always be put in slanting, so that small

stitches are made on both sides.

To Cover the Crown. - The top of the crown

should be covered with a circle or plaque of

straw made in the hand and not

straight on to the shape. To make

this plaque, wind the cotton tightly

round the straw to make a firm

point to start with, then draw the

braid of straw around this to form

the centre, easing it in to make it

flat. In the loosely made straws

a drawing thread is sometimes put

at the edge of the straw to facilitate

the process, or the outer edge may

be stretched (fig. 35).

When the centre circle is well formed, continue

sewing the straw in rows round and round, taking

small stitches on the right side and larger ones

on the WTcng. Each row must be stitched

Fio. 35.

and eased to the previous one so that they lie

perfectly flat. If this top piece is made too

tight it will bulge out when placed on the frame.

At the beginning the rows should overlap each

other considerably, and as the circle increases

the edge may be extended nearer to the edge

of the preceding row. When large enough,

fasten off the end of the straw so that it will

not unravel, and slope it gradually under the

last row. Make the plaque about half an inch

more in diameter than the top of the frame,

and then sew it on to the wires in two or three

places.

Side-Band. - This is formed by sewing a row

of straw to the edge of the crown piece, com-

mencing at the side or back, or where the join

is likely to be hidden by trimming. Leave an

end of straw of about one inch at the beginning,

and this can be caught and covered by the second

row. Continue sewing one row under the other

until the side is covered, easing the straw

smoothly on to the shape and finishing the end

by turning it up under the preceding row. Tack

the side-band to the last row of the brim, and

the hat will be ready for its head-lining (p. 432)

and trimming.

Trimming. - ^This style of hat may be trinuned

in a variety of ways, but for heird wear there is

Fig. 36.

nothing more useful than a scarf drapery or a

good ribbon trimming with a styhsh bow at the

side or front (fig. 36).

MUFFS

The tendency at present is for muffs to be very

large and either oblong or square ; but fashion

changes very rapidly, and the directions given

below are for an ordinary medium-sized m"iff

which can easily be manufactured at home.

Although black satin is used in the construction

of it, the material may be varied to suit indivi-

dual taste and requirements. Black or other

coloured velvet, for instance, trimmed with fur

is always effective, or a piece of the same

444

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

material as the costume worn would also look

well. Tlien, again. £or evening wear a lighter-

looking muff might be made of crlpe de chine

edged with marabout or ermine.

The Uning may be made of any coloured silk

which will tone with the outside. A white or

Ught-coloured lining is always best for smart

wear, as it does not soil the gloves.

Strips of fvu- from one to four inches wide can

be bought at most of the big drapers, the price

of course varying according to the value of the

special kind of fur.

Mofl of Black Satin and Fur

Required. - 1| yards black satin, fur edging, IJ

yards coarse calico, down or wadding.

Method. - Divide the length of satin into two

equal parts, measuring 27 inches by 20 inches,

and sew each of these pieces together by the

raw edges, so that they form a round. Cut

two pieces of calico, about half an inch smaller

in length and width than the satin, and sew

them together in the same way. Slip the two

calico circles one inside the other, and stitch

the two together at one end. Fill equally all

round with down, and sew up the other end.

Slip this down bed into one of the satin circles,

turn the raw edges of the satin over on to the

Average measurements would he

Round face .

Forehead to back of neck

Round neck from ear to ear

calico, and fix firmly into position. Sew on the

fur round each end, making the joins come at the

bottom of the muff. Slip in the lining and hem it

in half an inch from the edge (fig. 37).

CHILDREN'S MILLINERY

Baby Girl's Bonnet

Required. - \ yard satin, J yard muslin, \ yard

Baroenot, 3 yarda ribbon (3 inches wide for

rosettes and strings), 2 skeins embroidery silk.

Mtthod. - The shape shown in illustration is

very comfortable, easy to make, and requires

little fitting. Throe measurements are required

- round the child's face, across the back of the

neck from ear to ear, and from the forehead to

the back of neck. When possible it ia easier to

take the measurements from an old bonnet, and

to make each new bonnet a trifle larger than the

last.

14 inches.

11 "

11 ..

Cut out a paper pattern similar to fig. 38,

join at the notches, pin or tack up the seams and

try on the child. If it fits veil, unpin the

pattern and cut out in the satin, muslin, and

sarcenet. All the pieces must be the same size,

and turnings must be allowed everywhere

Fio. 38.

except at the seams where the notches are-

First tack the satin and muslin together, fix

the side seams and sew them firmly together.

Turn the satin over the muslin all round the raw

edges and catch-stitch the raw edges of the satin

to the muslin.

To make the revers, take a piece of muslin

the length of the front of the bonnet from end to

end and iour inches wide, and shape as in fig. 39.

Then cut out in satin, allowing an exti'a half -inch

for turnings, and place the two together, tacking

the satin down over the muslin.

The revers can now be embroidered with any

simple pattern, or it may be trimmed with a

ruching of ribbon, passementerie, or swansdown

edging. After it has been trimmed, line in the

back with sarcenet and fix it to the bonnet.

Make two rosettes (see p. 439) out of the

ribbon, sew them to each side of the bonnet,

and use the remainder of the

ribbon for the strings. Cut one

string longer than the other,

and sow in at each side of the

bonnet on the wrong side. Join

up the scams in the sarcenet

head-lining, slip it inside, turn

in the raw edges one-quarter inch

from the edges of the satin, and

hem neatly all the way round

(fig- ^^)- , , Fia. 3U.

A quilling of chiffon or ribbon

can be put round the front of the bonnet ; it

gives it a softer appearance, but does not suit

all children.

This shape of bonnet may be made up very

prettily in other materials ; they are often made

of material to match the ooat the child ia wear-

HOME MILLINERY

445

ing. Embroidered muslin is especially pretty,

and should either be left without lining or lined

with a very thin cambric which will wash easily.

In winter, if the bonnet is required warmer, it

may be interlined with flannel or delaine, or

with a layer of wadding or domet. Although

the inside lining is generally made of sarcenet,

any soft material can be used, such as satin or

silk from the lining of a dress or coat.

Baby Boy's Hat (age six months)

Materials required. - J yard satin, 20 inches

wide, 6 yards satin ribbon about 2| to 3 inches

wide (3| yards to be used for the ruching, 1|

yards for strings), J yard stiff muslin, J yard

sarcenet, J yard book muslin.

The only measurement required for this is

the size round the child's head. An average size

would be 21 inches.

Any kind of material can be used for this style

of hat as long as it is not stiff and hard. Satin

wears well, as the dust does not cling to it. Boys'

hats are usually made with less trimming than

baby girls' bonnets.

Making. - After having measured the child's

head, cut a piece of muslin that length plus

tvirnings and 2| inches wide. Fold in half

widthways and then join into a circle.

Twenty inches of satin is needed for the

crown of hat. Cover the band with the satin

that is left over, both inside and outside, tack

the outside on Srmly, but leave the satin inside

loose, as this is hemmed down after the band has

been fixed on the crown.

Take the 20 inches of satin and make it

into a circle ; in the middle of this circle cut

a round hole 3^ inches in diameter. Gather

round the edges of tliis hole, and fix it on to

a button about the size of a shilling. A piece

Fia. 40.

of cardboard will do to make the button, and

it should be covered with two thicknesses of

satin.

Now line the top piece with the book muslin.

Lay the satin as flat as possible on the muslin

and cut the muslin the same si^e. Gather the

two together one half -inch from the raw edges.

Draw up to the siz;e of the head-band (fig. 40).

For the Head-lining. - Cut a round 14 inches

in diameter from the half-yard sarcenet, gather

round the edge also to the size of the head-

band. Tack it into the satin crown. The crown

is now ready to be fixed on to the band. Pin on

the band, letting the raw edges of the crown come

between the band and the satin lining ; stitch

on firmly.

Make a ruching of the satin ribbon (see p. 436),

and sew on to the band. Fix on the strings

Fia. 41.

at each side so that they come just underneath

the ruch, and make the right-hand string rather

longer than the left. Hem up the satin on the

inside of band, and the hat is finished (fig. 41).

Silk Hat for Little Girl

Required. - 2 to 2J yards washing silk, 2 rings

of washing wire, 1 large reel of sewing silk, ^

yard of stiff net, ^ yard book muslin.

Making. - Silk hats, or Liberty hats as they

are usually called, are generally made of wash-

ing silk, such as China or Japanese silk. The only

measurements required are the size round the

head and the width of the brim.

Cut a lengthwise strip of the silk 11 inches

deep, and this will make a brim 5 inches wide

when finished. Fold in half lengthways and fix

with a few pins. Measure one inch from the

fold and half an inch from the raw edges, and put

in a row of machine stitching or a row of running

in both places. Measure half-way between these

two rows and put in another row. Then put

in more rows as in diagram, so as to form casings

to take in washing wire. At one end of the

Fia. 42.

strip do not take the stitching quite to the end,

as it will be easier to join it to the other end if

this is left plain (fig. 42). Then insert the wire

446

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

in the casings, putting in two pieces at the same

time where the casings come together.

Join the head wire to the siae required to fit

head, and then join the others bo that they he

in a flat circle when placed on a table. Join the

silk neatly over the wres by shp-stitching.

Next cut a band in stifl net, the size of the

head in length (average twenty inches) plus one

inch for joining and two and a half inches deep.

Wire tins top and bottom, and cover with a

circle of stiff net or buckram, and bind the lower

wire with a piece of silk. Fix the brim to this

crown by stab-stitching it through.

The crown piece of the hat is formed by cutting

a round of silk eighteen to twenty inches in

diameter and gathering it round the edges. Shp

this over the hat and fix it round the base of

crown. This round of silk may be embroidered,

tucked, or have insertion let in as desired.

Put in a head-lining and then trim the hat

with ribbon or some of the silk with which it is

made. If piece silk is used a simple twist round

the hat with a nice full rosette at one side and a

smaller one catching up the brim will be all that

is necessau-y (fig. 42). Or in ribbon, a twist round

Fig. 43.

and a nice soft bow in the front or at the side.

A rosette of soft lace with a wreath of daisies

or tiny pink rosebuds makes another dainty

trimming for those who prefer flowers. Silk

elastic should bo fastened to the inside of the

hat or white ribbon ties if they are preferred.

The trimming should be of the simplest and

daintiest description.

VEILS

A Wedding Veil. - Unless this is made of real

lace, Brussels net is usually bought for the

purpose. Two yards of net two yards wide will

make a fairly large veil. A hem two inches

wide should be made on the right side of the

veil. Be careful in laying the hem to turn over

two inches twice and not to make a narrow

fold to begin with or the raw edges would show

tlirough the thin net. Pay particular attention

to the corners. The hem should be kept in

position with a row of running stitches made

in filoselle silk. A small design may be em-

broidered in the corners, or a narrow fancy

border all the way round looks very effective.

The veil may also be decorated with sprays of

flowers.

When real lace is used for a wedding veil it

will be very much more becoming if it is lined

with the finest white chiffon.

A wedding veil can be worn over the face

or not as desired ; the style of wearing it alters

somewhat each year. It is generally kept in

position with a wreath of orange flowers.

When the veil is worn over the face, two

small wreaths are sometimes worn, one under

the veil and the other on the top, then when

the veil is thrown back, the flowers imdemeath

make a softer line round the face.

When the veil is worn off the face it is eithef

twisted round the head in the form of a tiu-ban

or pleated up in a manner to suit the wearer.

A Confirmation Veil. - This can either be made

of Brussels net like a wedding veil or of fine

lawn. One and a quarter yards of fine lawn at

Is. per yard would bo sufficient. A narrow hem

sliould be made all the way round.

Make a mark in the centre of one of the sides

and sew on a tape or ribbon twelve incV.os at

each side of this centre mark. These tapes are

tied at the back of the neck under thj veil,

and a kind of cap is formed in this way.

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

A WOMAN should cherish her health as her most valued possession, for good health is assuredly

as potent a factor in promoting her happiness as ill-health is in destroying it. It is one of a

woman's first duties therefore towards herself and towards her household to keep in that perfect

physical state of well-being which does so much to help her with the trials and wonies of

everyday life, for a healthy body and a healthy mind are as a rule synonymous. The healthy

woman, by very reason of her vitality, permeates cheerfulness and happiness around her. WTiilst

good health is the most potent minimiser of all our troubles, ill-health may be said to be the

originator of most of the evils of ill -temper, irritability, and morbid despondency. Hence, if we

would be happy, first and foremost it should be our aim to keep well.

How to keep well. - By strict attention to

the laws of hygiene much may be done in

the way of keeping our health and guarding

against the inroads of disease. Yet how many

women are there who possess even a superficial

knowledge of the principles of hygiene ? and

how many more, having this knowledge, go so far

as to put it into practice ? Tliis may be due in

the main to an ignorance of the importance of

hygiene, and a failure to realise the fact that

it is only possible to maintain good health by

a strict observance of the fundamental health

laws.

Cleanliness may be regarded as the basio

principle of hygiene. Tliis applies not only

to cleanliness of person, wliich is of course

essential, but not sufficient in itsoLE for the

preservation of health. In order to keep well

it is necessary also that we should have pure

food, pure air, pure water - cleanliness and

wholesomeness, in fact, in all our surroundings.

Neglect any of these essential factors and the

health, and through the health the appearance,

will suffer in the long run.

It should be a woman's aim in life not oiily

to be healthy in body and mind, but also to

always look her best. The two as a rule go

together. A healthy body and a healthy mind

have more effect upon the personal appearance

than can at first be appreciated. All successful

culture of beauty must have for its foundation

that purity and wholesomeness of living wliich

in its tuiTi forms the groundwork of good health.

Of what avail, for instance, is the possession of

classic features if the beauty of the face is

marred by a muddy complexion and unsightly

skin blemishes ; or of what use a well-built

figure if it is hidden by stooping shotilders and

an ungainly gait ? On the other hand, a woman

with the bloom of health upon her cheeks, and

the signs of physical well-being in her upright

cari'iage and the elasticity of her step is indeed

" a thing of beauty and a joy for ever," however

plain and commonplace her features may be.

Personal Cleanliness. - Personal cleanliness is

essential for the woman who would not only

keep hygienically sound in body, but who wishes

also to enjoy the aid to beauty furnished by

a clear and good complexion. It is useless to

expect the complexion to be good when the caro

of the physique and person is totally neglected.

Strict attention in the first instance is required

to the eliminating organs of the body. It

should be seen that these are regularly made to

do their duty. Where gastric disturbances are

habitual no amount of external care will free the

complexion from blemishes. As soon as the

skin becomes muddy and unhealthy-looking,

therefore, the first step is to ascertain whether

there is any functional disorder to which this

state of things may be attributed. ]\Iost often

it can be traced to faulty digestion, which is in

its turn attributable either to tmstutable diet

or insufficient mastication of food. Insufficient

mastication of food is often caused by bad and

diseased teeth, which are so rendered powerless

to perform their natural functions. The care

of the teeth plays an important part in our

personal hygiene, and it is a subject which is

fully dealt with on p. 464.

BATHS

The first consideration in regard to her

personal cleanliness should be the daily

bath. The temperattu'e of the bath should

of course be adapted to indi%'idual require-

ments, but it must be remembered that

the warm bath with a liberal use of soap is

essential for cleansing purposes. A cold bath,

where it can be taken, acts more as a stimulant

than a cleansing operation, but it disagrees with

447

448

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

many people, and regular cold bathing with

some would do more harm than good. An

unfeiiling test as to whether the cold bath is

beneficial to the individual can be found in the

reaction which sets in afterwards. If a glow of

heat is felt after bathing it may be taken as a

sure sign that it has done good. If, however,

Bhivering fits occur, the cold tub should be

altogether avoided. INIuch of the stimulating

effect of a cold bath may be obtained by thor-

oughly sponging the body with cold water after

a warm bath has been taken. This procedure

is effective in nainimising the tendency to catch

cold, which often arises from leaving a warm

bathroom for a room of a much cooler atmo-

sphere. Cold baths are baths of a tempera-

ture below 60 degrees Falirenheit ; warm baths

are from 92 to 98 degrees Fahrenheit, whilst

hot baths exceed the latter temperat\ire. In

Turkish and Russian baths variations of tem-

perature play an important part in the cleansing

process, producing a copious action of the skin

which effectually cleanses it of all its impurities

and secretions. These baths, however, prove

entirely unsuitable to some constitutions, and

should not be taken excepting under medical

advice. Where they can be taken the general

effect upon the tone of the skin and complexion

is most beneficial.

" Do not be sparing with the soap and water "

is a good maxim to bo observed in taking the

daily bath. Where the water is hard it should

Loofah Bath-Strap.

be softened with a little borax, some Scrubb's

Cloudy Anamonia, or a prepared water softener,

such aa Lavender Bath Salts. A few drops of

toilet vinegar or eau de Cologne also added

will have a wonderfully refreshing effect. Good

vigorous rubbing and scrubbing are the next

essentials. A loofah bath-strap or a flesh-brush

should be brought into requisition for this pur-

pose. The friction of either will cause the skin

to feel a healthy glow. Then again, a brisk rub

Flesh-Brush.

c'own with a large bath towel when the bathing

process is over will give a pleasant feeling of

invigoration, doing more than anything else to

stimulate the pores of the skin to healthy

action.

Hip and Sponge Baths. - Most houses and flats

possess bathrooms in these days of up-to-date

conveniences. Failing a regular bathroom, the

daily ablution should be performed in a hip or

a sponge bath. One advantage possessed by

these is that they admit of the bath being taken

into the bedroom, and thus all risk of catching

cold from being exposed to varying atmospheres

in going backwards and forwards to and from

a bathroom is obviated. These small baths

can be had at all prices ranging from 10s. and

upwards.

Rubber Camp-Baths. - ^For travelling, rubber

camp-baths are very useful. Those are usually

made to fold into a small compass and can be

packed in waterproof cases. They range in

price for lis. 6d. and iipwards, according to size.

Sea-Baths. - Sea-bathing is very invigorating,

and when making a stay at the seaside it is as

well to bathe as much as possible. If bathing

in the sea does not agree with you, the same

symptoms of shivering that manifest themselves

after a cold bath are apparent. Under these

circumstances, needless to add, sea-bathing

should be avoided.

It is unwise to let the salt water get into

the hair when bathing, for it has the effect of

rendering it harsh and dry, and giving it a faded

appearance. Before going into the water the

hair should be tightly coiled and pinned on to

the top of the head, and a well-fitting waterproof

or oilskin cap worn over it. This is a precaution

which should be taken by every woman who

wishes to keep her hair bright and glossy at

the seaside. Constant saturation of the hair by

salt water during the stmtimer months h£is such

ill effects upon its appearance that it sometimes

takes months to bring it once more to its normal

condition.

Salt Baths at Home. - A salt bath may \je

enjoyed at home by adding salt to the bath

water in the proportion of four pounds of salt

to every sixteen gallons of water. Brills & Tid-

man Sea Salts are very good for the purpose.

They can be obtained at Is. 4Jd. and 9Jd. the

dozen packets respectively. Ordinary table salt

can also be used in this way.

Care of Sponges. - Sponges may be kept in

very good condition if they are not allowed to

lie in soapy water and the soap is well rinsed out

of them after use. It is better, too, if they can

be hung up to air and not left lying in a damp

condition. A piece of tape can easily be tlireaded

through the sponge and tied so as to form a loop

to hang it up by.

If a sponge should become slimy and sticky

it can be cleaned by soaking in salt and water

or strong ammonia and water. Allow it to

remain in either of these for several hours,

squeezing it occasionally, then wring out and

rinse in plenty of cold or tepid water.

THE SKIN AND COMPLEXION

Wrinkles and their Causes. - The skin is a

mirror, as it were, in which all the defects in our

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

449

personal hygiene are plainly featured. Want of

cleanliness, clironic stomach disorders, such as

indigestion and constipation - sedentary Uving,

unrelieved by any sort of exercise - all show

themselves in the dull and muddy complexions

and unsightly skin blemishes vritli which so

many women are afflicted, and which they so

often try in vain to cure. Hygienic care of the

body is the first essential for the woman who

wishes her skin to be pure and her complexion

healthy. Perfect cieanMness internally and ex-

ternally must be the rule for those who wish

their complexion to be pure and healthy.

Habitual constipation is one of the most re-

lentless foes the complexion can have. It

arises from a variety of causes of which sedentary

habits, want of exercise, unsuitable diet are tho

most prolific.

A glass of pure cold water taken upon rising

in the morning, and half-an-hour before each

mealj a glass of hot water or lemon and water

before going to bed at night, a little fruit taken

at breakfast -time, gentle friction of the bowels

after the morning tub, a good walk in the open

air, and some simple physical exercises (p. 455),

together with strict attention to diet, will do

much towards ameliorating tliis state of affairs.

In many cases a glass of hot water taken upon

rising and half-an-hour before each meal is

efficacious.

Overwork and worry are powerful deter-

rents to all culture of beauty. No amount of

care can undo the havoc wrought by unstrung

nerves or a worrying disposition. Do not worry

over petty things. Remember that " every

cloud has its silver lining." There are times in

this Ufo, it is true, when trouble comes upon us

with a heavy hand, yet the minor, every-day

worries are more often than not of a woman's

own making, and it is the habitual worrying

of a discontented disposition which, more than

anything else, leaves its mark upon the face with

so remorseless a hand. Try and cultivate a

more cheerful outlook upon life if you would

permanently rid yotu'self of these vexing little

lines between the brows.

There are lines, however, that are imprinted

upon the face by laughter. These lines have a

character all their own - they give the face a

cheerful, happy expression, and add to rather

than detract from its beauty. But it is the

wrinkles that arise from impoverislunent of the

subcutaneous tissues caused by ill -health, faulty

hygiene, and worry, wliich we must set ourselves

to cure, in the first place, by removing tho cause ;

in tho second place by strengthening and

nourishing the skin and keeping it in good con-

dition with the aid of gentle massage treatment.

Very few women know how to wash their

faces properly. A mere superficial dab with a

soapy sponge is often deemed sufficient for the

purposes of cleanliness. The soap is not pro-

perly washed off and a hurried and perfunctory

drying serves to complete this portion of the

toilet. These women are surprised that their

skin becomes coarse and ill-nourished-looking,

besides showing a tendency to wrinkle. The

sldn of the face is constantly giving off waste

matter thi-ough its pores, besides receiving dust,

dirt, and other impurities upon its surface. By

the mistaken treatment thus described the pores

of the skin become clogged up with the soap

which is left to dry on th.e face, and are so

prevented from doing their eliminating work

properly - blackheads and pimples ai'e the in-

evitable result.

It is above all important that the face bo

washed in soft water. Hard water is most

deleterious in its effect upon the skin and com-

plexion. It can always be detected by the

difficulty in getting the soap to lather in it -

thick crusty flakes forming on the surface of

the water and clinging to the sides of the bath.

After washing in very hard water the skin

experiences a feeling of roughness which is

decidedly unpleasant. This alone should indi-

cate in one measui-e the injury that can be

done by its constant use.

Rain water is the best to use, but this is not

always available. Borax and oatmeal axe both

good water-softeners - boiling wiU also tend to

soften hard water to a certain extent. One of

the simplest of water-softeners, however, and

one of which the properties in this direction are

but Httle known, is to be found in lemon juice.

Two tea-spoonfuls of the juice of a lemon added

to a basinful of warm water will be found

sufficient. Lemon juice has the added recom-

mendation of being congenial to most skins,

whereas oatmeal and even borax would be too

drying for many. Oatmeal is especially suitable

for very greasy skins. The most pleasant way

to use it is to place a quantity in a small muslin

bag, sew this up, and place it in the water a

little time before it is required. The same bag

will do duty for three or four days, after which

the oatmeal will have to be renewed.

The face should be well washed in warm

soft water twice a day - in the morning and

at night. The night toilet is of the utmost

importance, as, if it is neglected, the dust and

dirt accumulated during the day will fill up tho

pores of the skin and prevent its healthy action.

A good pure soap and hot water sliould be used.

Sponges or face flannels should be thoroughly

clean. It is better, however, to wash the faco

with the hands, rubbing with a brisk circular

movement. In the morning toilet soap will not

be necessary. A few droi>s of tinctiu'e of benzoin

added to the water makes an excellent skin tonic.

When coming in from a walk, a game of tennis,

or any other similar exercise on a hot summer's

day, do not make the mistake of at once waslung

the face in cold water to get cool, as this is very

bad for the skin and complexion. Instead, rub

a very little cold cream into the skin ; allow

450

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

this to remain on for a few minutes, then wash

off in soft warm water.

To Whiten Neck and Arms. - It is as well to

bathe the neck and eirnis in milk every night

for a few nights before going to a dance. When

going out in the evening the appearance of the

neck and arms will be much improved if, after

washing, glycerine and rose-water mixed in

equal proportions is well rubbed into the skin ;

then dust over with some good powder. Allow

this to remain on for some time, then Avipe

gently off, when the skin will be found to look

beautifully fresh and white.

Rough Elbows. - Tlie skin often assumes a

coarse and scaly appearance at the elbows, being

extremely rough to the touch. To remedy tliis,

in the first place the habit of leaning the elbows

upon desk or table must be abandoned. Plenty

of friction is necessary to rejuvenate the skin.

Rub some common salt well into the elbows at

night, then wash in warm water, and after drying

-apply a little cold cream. In the morning rub

bi'iskly with a good rough loofah.

For Red Arms. - ^Rub the arms every night

with diluted lemon juice in the proportion of

two-tliirds lemon and one-third water. Batliing.

the arms in milk at night-time is also an effica-

cious remedy.

MASSAGE

Every woman should know how to massage

her face and neck, as persistent massage serves

not only to keep the dreaded wrinkles at bay,

but also to give tone to the complexion, pre-

serve the contour of the face, and correct any

tendency to undue plumpness or leanness.

There is nothing like massage for filhng out

ugly hollows in the cheek and neck, or toning

down over-flabby cheeks, which are every bit

as unsightly as the unduly thin ones. Mas-

sage, to be effective, it should be remembered,

must be persistent. It is not sufficient to

practise it only when the inchnation seizes us.

Make a point of massaging the face thoroughly

once or twice a week, whilst gentle massage

movements should be used every night when

applj-ing skin food or other emoHient.

After having given the face its usual v,ash

with soap and warm water, dry it well, and with

the tips of the fingers apply a coating of good

skin food. Only use as much skin food as the

skin can comfortably absorb.

Now, seated in front of a mirror, it is time to

bejrin operations.

JMace the tips of the first and second fingers

of etich hand so that they meet in the centre of

the chin, begin massaging each side of the chin

from this point, continuing the movement up-

weu'ds and outwards, following the contour of

the face. All movements in face massage

should be circular and upwards. Rub the food

in gently, but firmly, with the tips of the fingers.

Next turn your attention to the lines which

are apt to form at the corners of the mouth. To

prevent or cure these, rub the sldn food in very

firmly with the palms of the liands with an

upward and circular movement, beginixing at

eacli side of the mouth and extending over the

cheek. This movement will also serve to fill

out the hollows in the clieeks if they are undulj'

thin, and reduce their plumpness if they are

inclined to be fat and flabby. After this move-

ment, gently tap the cheeks with the tips of

the flngors. Tliis will servo to give them tone,

stimulate the circulation, and have a beneficial

effect upon the complexion generally.

Then turn your attention to the httle lines

which form under and at the corners of the eyes.

All movements round the eyes sliould bo very

gentle, as the skin here is very elastic and incUned

to stretch.

Rest the tips of the first and second fingers

of each hand on the temple, and with the tips

of the second fingers massage under the eyes

from the nose and upwards to the temples

across the little network of ^v^inkles that form

at the corners of the eyes. If the skin wrinkles

very much under the touch of the fingers as the

movement is in process, it is a sign that the touch

is too heavy. The movement must be very

slow and very gentle - a rough movement ^vill

do more harm than good.

Now it is time to attack the horizontal

wrinkles which do so much to mar the beauty

of the forehead. Rub firmly across these

wrinkles with a hght, upward, and circular

movement ; rub persistently until the food has

worked its way well into the skin. Then with

the tips of the first and second fingers rub firmly

across these ugly little vertical Unes between

tlie brows, stretching the skin out smootWy.

The nose then requires its share of attention.

The pores of this organ are apt to become coeirse

and large. To correct this cover the finger-tips

with skin food and massage from the base of the

nostrils along each side of the nose upwards,

afterwards gently applying the skin food along

the nose and upwards towards the brows.

Now with a piece of clean wliite rag wipe

away all superfluous skin food from the pores.

For most skins it will be found advantageous

after this treatment to sponge the face in soft

warm water to which has been added from eight

to ten drops of tincture of benzoin or any other

good astringent skin tonic, drying it gently with a

soft towel.

Massaging the Neck. - Attention should be

given to the lines which form upon the neck

and to any tendency there may be to the

unsightly " double chin." Massage will correct

and prevent both.

Cover the neck with skin food, and with the

tips of the fingers rub gently across the horizontal

lines, which are often the result of wearing very

high or very stiff collars, then massage firmly

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

451

round the throat, afterwards gently tapping the

flesh under the chin several times. This will do

much to tone the flesh and prevent undue flabbi-

ness. Wipe off all superfluous skin food when

the massage is finished. After the massage the

following simple exercise will do much towards

strengthening the muscles of the neck and

checking any undue tendency to the formation

of a double chin. Crane the neck, stretching the

chin forward as far as it will go, then keeping it

still stretched ; bend the head slowly backwards

as far as it will go till it almost touches the

shoulders at the back, then bring the head

slowly forward again until the chin is allowed

to rest on the chest. Repeat the movement

several times, then vary it by turning the face

with the cliin raised in the same position first

to the right \intil the face is looking over the

right shoulder, and then to the left in the same

manner. Where the double chin is pronounced

skin foods should not be used; the neck should

bo well massaged with the fingers, and a cliin-

strap should be worn at night.

When the neck has become dark and dis-

coloured-looking through the constant wearing

of high collars and furs, rub a little lemon juice

diluted with water (one-third water to two-

thirds lemon juice) into the skin every night,

when it will soon regain its normal colour.

The benefits of face and neck massage have

now become so universally recognised that the

weekly visit to a " beauty specialist " forms an

estabhshed routine engagement for many women

of the wealthier classes who, instead of practising

complexion treatmcit at home, can afford to

pay for treatment by experts. HaK-an-ho\ir a

week spent at an estabUshment like Pomeroy's

in Bond Street, London, for face treatment and

massage will be found to have the most beneficial

results in preserving the healthy tone of the

skin. The fees average 7s. 6d. for each face

treatment, or 30s. for a course of six. One

treatment would do much to initiate the home

masse'oso into the mysteries of massage, making

an excellent foundation for the home treatment

which is to follow. The skin foods and other

complexion specialities of this firm may be

had from the principal chemists throughout the

country.

OTHER TREATMENT

The Steam Face-Bath. - For some skins, more

especially those with coarse open pores, it will

be found beneficial to give the face a steam bath

about once a week. To do this, fill a basin with

very hot water, to which the juice of half a lemon

has been added. Cover the head with a large

towel, bend over the basin, lotting the towel

completely screen the face, and remain in this

position until the face has become thoroughly

steamed. Then wash in soap and water and

rinse it well.

The pores will now be cleansed. As they will

have been thoroughly opened by this treatment,

to contract them once more fill another basin

with warm water to which about twelve drops of

tincture of benzoin should be added, and bathe

the face again for a few minutes. Then splash

it all over with cold water, and dry with a soft

towel. A little good face cream gently rubbed

into the pores with the finger-tips will complete

the treatment.

Electrolysis is the best-known method of re-

movang disfiguring superfluous hair. It should

always be applied by an expert. Most of the

skin and complexion speciahsts have expert

operators in electrolysis for the purpose of re-

moving superfluous hair.

CLOTHING

The proper choice of suitable clothing for

varying seasons forms an important factor in

regard to our health.

In winter the clothing should be Ught and

warm - never heavy ; in the summer it should

be light and cool. All clothes should fit suffi-

ciently loosely to give the limbs and respiratory

organs their full freedom. In so far as protec-

tion against cold is concerned, woollen fabrics

are superior to all other materials. Light

woollen combinations or vests should be worn

next to the skin in winter, and even in the

summer when athletics, outdoor games, or any

kind of violent exercise is indulged in, it is as

well to wear a light woollen undervest, for wool

is the only fabric which can be depended upon

to absorb perspiration ; and there is less risk

of catching cold than when wearing hnen or

cotton next to the skin, as those fabrics become

extremely damp after exercise, and very often a

severe chill is the result.

The Jaeger underwear possesses both the

quaUties of warmth and Ughtness of texture in

addition to that of durabihty ; and so from a

hygienic point of view is excellent. There are

agents for Jaeger clothing in almost every towni

in the United Kingdom, so that it is easily ob-

tainable.

Colour should also play an important part in

the selection of our clothing for the different

seasons. For summer white is the ideal colour,

as it is the one that absorbs the least heat.

This is the reason why in tropical climates white

is as much worn by men as by women. On the

other hand, black or dark -coloured garments

attract the sun and absorb the greater amount of

heat. These dark colours are ideal for winter

wear, but they should not be much worn in

summer.

The Corset. - Tighi-lacing. - Few women realise

how very injurious to their health tliis practice

is. Tight -lacing has the effect of compressing

the body to the point of deformity, and severe

injury to the internal organs is often the result.

452

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Happily the " wasp " waist is no longer the

fasliion of the moment, but there is a tendency

to unduly compress the hips and lower portion

of the body, which may often have most injurious

results. Great care should be taken in the

selection of corsets. It is wrong to economise

in tliis direction. A httle more money spent

on the corset and a little less on dress and finery

would ha%-e the effect of resulting in a much

cleaner bill of healtli for many a woman who is

accustomed to stint herself in this direction.

Clieap corsets should never be worn ; they are

usually stiff, hard, and unyielding, not giving

freedom to the movements of the body. The

best corset -makers are now, however, building

their corsets with more regard to the hygienic

laws than was manifested years ago. Good

corsets now are fairly elastic and pliable. They

are well planned and built, and are stocked in

almost every size. It is always as well, if possible,

to have the corset fitted, as this will ensure

perfect ease in wear. Various makes are speci-

ally adapted for very full and very thin figures,

and it is as well to bear this in mind when

making a selection. Wliere the corset is fitted,

the corsetiere will, of course, adapt it to the

special requirements of her customer.

It is as well to avoid the varying extremes

of fashion in this direction. Though at one

moment the " wasp " waist may be the decree,

at another •' no hips," and slenderness almost

to emaciation will be de rigueur, no woman who

respects her health will become fashion's slave.

By doing so she will often only succeed in

making herself grotesque.

The sensible woman always knows how to

strike the happy " medium " whatever the

fasliion may be ; there is no more pleasing sight

than a good, well-proportioned figure well and

sensibly corseted with due regard to the natural

laws.

Boots and Shoes. - Suitable footgear is a most

important consideration. The question of fit

is paramount. The boot must be made to fit

the foot, and not th'^ foot distorted out of all

shape to fit the boot. Ill-fitting boots serve

to deform the feet if their wear is persisted in,

causing corns, bunions, enlarged joints, and

ingrowing toe-nails and often other ills (see

p. 464).

Tight boots also impede the proper circulation

of the blood, and chilblains in this way are often

caused. The practice of wearing very high heels

is particularly r prehensible. A woman wearing

boots or shoes of this description cannot possibly

want in a natural fasliion; the weight of the

body is thrown forward upon the toes, being

robbed of the support which the heels would

have given it in the more natural circumstances ;

the heel of the shoe is placed in the middle of

the foot under the arch of the instep- the result

is to spoil and weaken the arch of the foot, and

rob it of its natural spring : the gait becomes

awkward, jerky, and ungainly in the extreme,

and that freedom and swing of movement

typical of a healthy and graceful carriage is

conspicuous by its absence.

Well-cut boots and shoes with medium-sized

heels and round toes are the ideal footwear.

Very pointed toes are responsible for a great

many of the toe deformities. It is not at all

necessary that the footwear should be clumsy

in order to be hygienic. Boots and shoes can

bo made just as neatly and as daintily with

moderately sized heels as with high ones. They

should have good strong soles, and not the thin

brown -paper mixture which is so often charac-

teristic of the cheap boot. It is a bad plan to

economise in shoe leather - many a fatal chill

has been traced to wet feet as a result of wearing

poor shoes in inclement weather. In all cases

where the soles of the boots or shoes are not

waterproof, goloshes should be worn. Mothers

should make their young daughters realise the

importance of keeping their feet well protected

from damp. Girls are apt to be very neglect-

ful in this direction, and much ill health and

even chronic invaHdism in after life is very

often the result. (For Waterproofs, Kaincoats,

see p. 306.)

FOOD AND DIET

The question of food and diet is an all-im-

portant one, but it is a question in which wo must

be guided to some extent by common-sense.

Constitutions vary, and one woman's meat is

only too apt to prove another woman's poison.

In these days of dietarian extremists, of which

the vegetarians form a typical faction, it proves

sometimes very hard to strike an even balance

for oneself in regard to the food question. It

may be at once said that extremes in diet as in

all other things are harmful, and should be

avoided. For most people an all meat diet

would be as injurious as a strictly voget'^rian

one. Special diets are of course prescribed in

special circumstances, but apart from these

exceptions, as a general rule a mixed meat

and vegetable diet is the most suitable in a

temperate climate like ours. One important

maxim to bear in mind is " Avoid everything

that disagrees with you, no matter how pleasing

it may be to the palate." Various forms of

diet must of coiu-so he adopted to suit individuals

in special cases. For instance, the woman who

is inclined to (besity should avoid sugar and

all starchy foods, confectionery and pastries ;

whilst, on the other hand, the ultra-thin woman's

diet should consist to a larg'o extent of the very

foods that the stout woman should avoid.

The normally healthy woman, so long as she

is guided by the maxim never to take anything

that disagrees with her, need not be hampered

by any of these restrictions, but, and this

is all -important, her meals should be taken

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

453

at regular intervals and she should never eat

between meals. It is the average woman's

tendency to err particularly in regard to the

quantity of food she takes. She either eats too

much and too often, or else she eats too little.

Nowadays people are more incUned to err in

the former respect than in the latter. Three

good meals a day are ample for the sustenance

of health and strength, and the harmful practice

of eating between meals should be abandoned.

Dainties and sweets of various kinds should not

be partaken of indiscriminately at any hour to

the prejudice of the appetite at meal-time.

Eating between meals more often than not is

the basis of loss of appetite, indigestion, and

other similar troubles. A great many people

err in this respect, more especially in regard to

our five o'clock tea. There is no harm in

indulging in " the cup that cheers," with perhaps

a thin slice of bread and butter or a biscuit,

but there is a growing tendency to make quite

a full meal at this time-honoured afternoon

function, and where dinner or even supper

follows at a two or a three hours' interval at

most, the practice is one calculated to do harm

to the strongest digestion.

It may be said at once that tea and sometimes

coffee are taken to excess in the average middle -

class home. They are both prolific causes of

indigestion, and many a faulty digestion can

be traced to excessive indulgence in either.

Girl and women workers are the most incHned

to indulge in the tea habit to excess. Tlie evil

in their case is increased inasmuch as our

women workers ab a rule are those who err

not only in taking insufficient food at meal-

time, but also in not selecting it with due regard

to its nutritive properties. Hundreds of girl

clerks may be seen in our great cities at

the luncheon hour taking a meal of buns or

pastries, supplemented with a liberal allowance

of tea.

Economy practised in regard to food is false

economy, and it is doubtful whether, even from a

monetary point of view, it proves economy in

the long run. A few years ago, perhaps, it was

difSenlt to get a good meal for an expenditure

well within the limits of the city worker's purse,

but to-day things have undergone a remark-

able change in this direction. At most of our

light refreshment shops, for instance, a well-

cooked chop or a steak may be obtained for the

sum of sixpence. Taking into consideration

the fact that the average price of tea is two-

pence a cup at least, and that pastries are as a

rule twopence each, the fallacy of the tea and

cake diet from the point of view of saving is

obvious. It is a bad principle in any case to

attempt saving on our meals. There are many

other Uttle details in whicli economy may be

practist'd, but economj' practised in regard to

the food qi:ostion is apt to cost very dear in

the end. There is no need to partake of a heavy

meal at luncheon time. Where the work is

of a sedentary nature heavy eating in the middle

of the day is injudicious. The diet might con-

sist of eggs one day, meat and vegetables on

another day, and fish the next, and so on ; but

let the cup of tea be absent from the mid-day

meal.

We should always regulate the quantities of

our meat and vegetable foods in accordance with

the varying seasons. Thus in summer time

fresh green vegetables, fruit, new-laid eggs

should play an important part in our diet, and

meat should not be taken in such large quantities

as in the winter.

Too much stress cannot be laid upon the

inaportance of good cooking. Bad cooking robs

food of many of its most nutritive properties,

whilst good cooking appeals to the palate,

giving a healthy tone to the appetite, and in

this way stimulates the digestive forces. Over-

indulgence in sweets or pastries is ruinous to a

good complexion, and all highly seasoned dishes

and pickles, chutney, and other similar condi-

ments should be avoided. On the other hand,

fruit and green vegetables may be indulged in

to the heart's content with the most beneficial

results. Oranges especially are notable as com-

plexion beautifiers. The woman who takes

four or five oranges a day will find them most

useful as digestive stimulants. Apples too are

invaluable aids to a good digestion. Needless

to say, the fruit should be in perfect condition.

Both unripe and over-ripe fruit should be

rigidly avoided.

SLEEP

Sleep is one of the essentials of life, for

neither health nor strength can be maintained

without it. Wlien for some reason or other

sleep cannot be obtained, the nervous and

muscular system very rapidly become exhausted,

for neither the brain nor the body can procure

the needful rest from the wear and toil they are

subject to during the day. During sleep the

phj'sique is not only resting but building up a

fresh reserve of strength - it is, as it were,

undergoing repair ; for the mxiscular system

as well as the brain recuperates itself under the

infliience of absolute rest, storing up nutriment

brought to it by the blood in preparation for

the next day's toil and activity.

Periods of Sleep. - Infants, cliildren, and old

people require longer periods of sleep than

others. From fifteen to twenty-eight years of

age nine hours' sleep should be taken. After

twenty-eight until old age, eight hours will be

sufficient.

Tlie bedroom should be quiet, dai-k, cool, and

well ventilated, and the window sliould be kept

open at the top, summer and winter, to let the

fresh air in. If you feel cold, put extra covers

on the bed and a wai'mer dressing-gown wliilst

451

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

doing yoiir hair, but never seek added warmth

at the expense of ventilation.

Time lor Sleep. - Tliero is much truth in the

old adage -

" Early to bed, and early to rise

Makes a man healthy, wealthy and wise."

The truth of it is borne out again in the fact

that the sleep obtained before midnight is often

designated as " Beauty Sleep." Regularity in

the bed-time hoiu" is not possible to all, but

where it is possible its results are most beneficial.

We have all experienced that jaded feeling which

is the result of keeping late hours for some nights

running, and even though we try to make up

for it by sleeping several hoiu" later in the day

we never feel quite the same as if we had had

our rest at the normal hour.

There are a number of people, such as journa-

lists and those of the theatrical profession, who,

from the nature of their calling, are bound to

reverse the natural order of things, turning day

into night and night into day. These should be

careful always to make up their full eight hours

of sleep. Care should be taken that when they

have to rest far into the day-time, their bed-

rooms are well darkened, and that they are not

disturbed bj' any sounds of the riash and bustle

of the daily household work. (For Insomnia,

its Causes and Cure, see Home Nursing.)

EXERCISE

Regular and systematic exercise is absolutely

necessary for the maintaining of good health.

Exercise taken in the open air is the most bene-

ficial, the healthiest women being those who en-

gage in outdoor sports such as golf, tennis, hockey,

&c., for these not only keep the miiscles of the

body in good condition, but they entail a certain

amount of time spent in the open air, and the

more fresh air a woman is able to breathe the

better it will be for her health, and incidentally

for her complexion and her good looks in general.

Walking exorcise is especially good ; it has been

said that every woman and girl should walk at

least five miles daily, but very few attain that

standard. Nowadays when buses, trams, &c.,

are to be found at every turn, and transit of

every kind is so accessiVjlo and so easy, a woman

is inclined to walk as little as possible, to the

general detriment of her health and good looks.

Many women workers are compelled to lead

sedentary lives. If those women would only

make up their minds to walk to and fro from

their offices and places of business instead of

taking tram or bus, they would find their health

materially improved. Even if doing so entailed

their getting up half-an-hour earlier ( very morn-

ing, the little self-denial practised in this way

would be amply repaid by the abundant benefits

to be derived.

For the woman in easy circumstances walking

is equally necessary, however much she may be

tempted to take her outings in carriage or motor.

The aimless, shambling walk without sot purpose

will not do her any good. In walking one

should always have an object in view, the stride

should be fiirm and light, the carriage erect.

Needless to ay, liigh-heeled shoes should be

altogether tabooed, as they tlirow the whole

weight of the body upon the toes, instead of

the pressure being first upon the heel and

the ball of the foot, and last upon the toes,

as is necessary for the natural movement in

walking. Wallcing up and down a room for

about ten minutes daily with a book well

balanced upon the head will do a great deal

towards improving the carriage of the head and

shoulders. Some good physical exercises morn-

ing and evening will be found most beneficial ;

in fact, where the life is a sedentary one, it

may be said that they £ire necessary for the main-

tenance of health (see below).

BREATHING

Few women have reaUsed the value of deep

breathing as an incentive to vitaUty and health ;

fewer still know how to breathe correctly. In

breathing the lips should be kept closed and

the breath inhaled and exhaled through the

nostrils. Six to ten deep breaths taken regu-

larly every morning upon rising will act as a

wonderful tonic to the system. Standing erect

with the hands upon the liips, inhale a deep

full breath whilst slowly rising upon the tips

of the toes - then slowly exhale wlulst bringing

the heels to the ground again. This breathing

exercise should be repeated at least six times

every morning or evening, and the number of

breaths could be gradually increased to ten or

twelve with the utmost benefit. Through the

day-time, when working, walking, or indulging

in any kind of exercise, a woman should practise

the art of breathing correctly, inhaling and ex-

haling the breath through her nostrils an'', not

through her mouth, as is the habit with many.

SOME SIMPLE PHYSICAL EXERCISES

Tlie following simple physical exercises may

bo practised at home with much benefit. Any

particular exercise or exercises may bo selected

and practised by a woman in accordance with

her particular requirements.

First Exercise. - Position. - Stand with head

erect and shoulders well squared, arms hanging

at the sides, the finger-tips touching the thighs,

heels close together and toes turned out (fig. 1).

Bend the forearms upwards, with the palms

turned inwards and the fingers pointing to the

shoulders (fig. 2).

Throw out the arms sideways parallel with

the shoulders, keeping the palms downwards

(fig. 3).

Second Exercise. - Stretch out arms sideways

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

455

PHYSICAL EXERCISES

Fia. 1. Fig. 2.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 5.

Fig. 6.

Fig. 7.

Fig. 8.

Fig. 9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

I^G. 12.

Fig. 13.

FIG. 11.

456

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

(fig. 3), then bend forearms until the hands are

in front of the shoulders (fig. 4). Then quickly

stretch arms sideways.

Third Exercise. - Bend arms aa in fig. 2, then

stretch arms upwards (fig. 5).

Fourth Exercise. - Bend arms as in fig. 2,

then from this position stretch them forward,

with the palms inward and the fingers well

extended (fig. G).

The above exercises are especially good for

chest development.

Fifth Exercise. - Stretch arms upwards (fig. 5),

then, with the feet firmlj- on tho floor and without

bending tho knees, bend the body slowly back-

wards (fig. 7). This exorcise has most bene-

ficial effects in strengthening the back. Tlio

beginner should take up her position at first

near a wall against which she can support herself

by her hands £is she bends.

Sixth Exercise. - Stretch tho arms upwards

(fig. 5), then, without bending the knees, bend

forwards until the tips of the fingers touch

tho floor in front (fig. 8). The knees must

not be bent under any consideration. If you

cannot touch the floor at fii'st, bend as far as

5'ou can without bending the knees ; the rest

will come with practice. This exercise is of

enormous value in giving suppleness to the

figure, reducing obesity and strengthening the

abdomen. It should be performed regularly by

those who are incUned to stoutness. After

practising Exercise V. and Exercise VI. separ-

ately, practise both movements one after the

other, bending backwards and forwards in turn

several times.

Seventh Exercise. - ^Trunk -twisting movement.

Place the hands behind the neck, the finger-tips

just meeting (fig. 9), twist tho body slowly to

the right (fig. 10). Tlion after turning slowly

to the front again, twist the body to the left

in the same manner. This exercise gives supple-

ness to the figure and has a most beneficial

effect upon the internal organs.

Eighth Exercise. - Lie down on floor with arms

extended behind tho head and the feet well to-

gether. Gently raise the left leg as high as it

will go (fig. 11), then slowly lower it to the

floor again. Raise and lower the right leg in

the same manner. Repeat several times, then

raise and lower both logs together (fig. 12).

This is also an effective exorcise for reducing

superfluous flesh and curing constipation and

digestive troubles.

Ninth Exercise. - Bend tho knees as in fig. 13,

plaf'ing both hands on the ground in front of

you. Then, without bonding the arms, throw

out the logs to the rear (fig. 14). Bond tho

arms until tho chest nearly touches tho floor

(fig. 15). Then straighten the arms until the

position is again the same as fig. 14. Return

to position shown in fig. 13.

Tlus exercise is also very good for digestive

troubles.

The Value of Housework. - Housework is a

source of exercise wliich has a decidedly health-

giving value. Turning mattresses and making

beds are very ordinary and seemingly unin-

teresting houseliold duties, but from the point

of view of health thoy are good ; tho more

energy and interest a woman displays in

following the ordinary routine of her domestic

duties, the less danger does she run of

becoming a victim to nerves and other kindred

feminine complaints. Slie must not overdo

things, however, as it is as harmful to work too

hard as to work too little, but if she goes through

with her light household duties cheerfully and

^nllingly, taking pleasure in her work, they

cannot but be productive of physical benefit

to her. It is not every one who can indulge

in tennis, golf, and other similar outdoor and

health-giving exercises, but there are very few

women who have an excuse for not availing

themselves of the exercise to be had in the daily

routine of household work. Let them therefore,

if they value their health, make the most of

their opportunities in this direction.

CARE OF THE HAIR

No woman who values her appearance can

afford to neglect her hair, for a fine, well-kept

head of hair forms indeed a " woman's crowning

glory," whereas dull-looking, ill-kept tresses tend

to show more than anything else that she lacIvS

that dainty and scrupulous care of her person

which should prove one of the chief charac-

teristics of her sex.

Brushing the Hair. - Tlio hair should be

thoroughly brushed for at least from five to eight

minutes each morning and evening, and even

longer if it is particularly thick and luxuriant.

Care should be taken in tlie selection of the

brushes. These should bo of medium hardness

- extremely hard brushes do more liarm than

good. A moderately stiff brush might be used

for the hair, and a softer one for the scalp.

Part the hair in two divisions from the centre

of the forehead to tho nape of the nock, then

brush it at each side with firm, even, and rapid

but not unduly heavy strokes. Few women

understand the knack of hair -brushing, and

more harm than good is done by an unduly

harsh treatment with tho brush. The brushing

should be sufficiently brisk and vigorous to set

the oil glands of tho scalp in action. A healthy

glow is felt over tho head and scalp when tho

brushing is properly dono.

Combing the Hair. - It is as well to take out

tho tangles with the comb before brushing,

taking caro not to brealc tho hair by pulling it

too hard. The teeth of the comb should not

be too sharp ; they should be firm and strong,

however, and not easily breakable. Tortoise-

shell combs are the best, but these are not

within the reach of every purse. Very good

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

457

combs can be obtained for the expenditiire of

from Is. 6d. to 2s. ; but great care should be

taken in their selection. The scalp should never

be scraped with the comb, as this induces irri-

tation and dandruff ; neither should " back-

combing," which is the name given to the pro-

cess of fluffing out the hair by combing it back

from the ends to the roots, in order to give it

the appearance of an added thickness, be much

practised.

After thoroughly brushing and combing the

hair at night it is best to do it up in one or two

very loose plaits, in order to give it a much-

needed rest from the strain to which it has been

subjected bj' the exigencies of the coiffure during

the day-time. When the hair is tightly braided

it cannot enjoy the benefit of this rest.

Scalp Massage. - Much benefit can be derived

from gently massaging the scalp with the tips

of the fingf^rs, using a quick, circular movement.

Part the hair in the middle, massage gently

from and round the parting, then separate the

hair in strands, and massage the scalp from and

round the smaller partings thus made. The

friction so caused stimulates the oil glands, and

does much to promote their healthy action.

Tliis massage may take place night or morning,

but preferably in the morning, when the scalp

is not tired. For very dry hair a little cocoa -

butter might be applied with the tips of the

fingers during the massaging process ; it should

be rubbed gently into the scalp and not allowed

to go over the hair.

Washing the Hair. - Too frequent washing of

the hair is injurious, as it has the effect of re-

moving the natiiral oil. No hard-and-fast rule

can be laid down as to how often the hair should

be washed ; it is a matter which depends upon

the nature and quantity of the hair and the

condition of the scalp. People with abnormally

greasy hair, for instance, require to wash it once

in a fortnight or tliree weeks to keep it in a good

condition ; whilst dwellers in the to^\Ta are

compelled to wash their hair- more often than

people who live in the country.

On the other hand, people with dry hair

should wasli it as seldom as is compatible with

perfect cleanliness. A good plan for those whose

hair tends to drj'-ness is to rub oil well into the

scalp twenty-four hours before wasliing. This

will obviate any tendency of the hair to become

harsh and brittle after the shampoo. One im-

portant point to remember is that soap should

never be rubbed on to the hair during the wash-

ing process. The best way to wash the hair is to

dissolve a little good soap in hot water (Castile

Soap is very good for the purpose), beat it into a

lather, and then rub it well into the scalp until a

lather is formed all over the head. Continue this

operation in fresh hot water, still rubbing the

lather well in. Tlien thoroughly rinse in hot

water until all the soap is removed. A final

rinsing can be given in cold water if required.

Be careful to thoroughly dry the hair after

washing, as a failure to do this often causes the

dandruff which is so prejudicial to the health of

the hair. Many good shampoo powders are sold

which can also bo used in this way. The yolks of

one or two eggs beaten up to a froth and mixed

with hot water also make a very good shampoo.

If people would onlj' realise the cleansing

properties of thorough brusliing they would not

need to wash their hair so often. It is most

important, however, that the brushes should be

kept scrupulously clean. Attention to these

details go a long way towards keeping the hair

and scalp in a healthy condition.

Where the hair is inclined to be unduly dry

and brittle, a little Rowland's Macassar Oil or

cocoa-butter should be well rubbed into the scalp

twice a week. The former preparation should

be used sparingly, two or three drops being

sufficient to impart a delightful gloss. For un-

duly greasy hair a little bay rum i-ubbed into

the roots twice a week will be found to have

beneficial results in most cases.

Soda should never be used in washing the

hair, for although it gives it a pretty, fluffy

appearance, and tends to make fair hair look

fairer, yet it is very injurious, having a most

drying and irritating effect upon the scalp,

causing the hair to split and break, and after

a time to fall, if constantly used. Occasional

tipping (i.e. cutting the ends of the hair) and

singeing is beneficial when the hair is broken

and the ends uneven, but the old idea that

constant tipping and singeing was absolutely

necessary to keep the hair in good condition is

now altogether exjiloded.

Toilet Brushes. - It is very important to keep

hair brushes verj' clean. Tlaey should always

be kept under cover and not allowed to lie about

exposed to the dust. Then wash them once a

week or as often as occasion requires. Put

sufficient hot water into a bowl or basin to cover

the bristles of the brush and add a good tea-

spoonful of borax, a lump of soda, or enough

ammonia to make the water smell rather

strongly. Allow this to become luke-warm.

Remove all hairs from the brush and dab it up

and down in the water until it looks quite clean.

The water must not be allowed to come over

the back of the brush, or it is liable to loosen it

and destroy the polish on the wood. Rinse

thorouglily in cold water, wliich will prevent

the bristles from becoming soft. Shake out the

water, wipe the back of the brush with a towel,

and dry as quickly as possible in the open air

or in a warm atmosphere.

Soda should not be used for fine and expensive

brushes as it might spoil the appeai-ance of the

backs ; borax or ammonia are safer materials.

Polished wood or ebony backs can bo rubbed

up with a little furniture polish when the brushes

are dry ; tortoise-shell or ivory backs with a

little sweet oil.

458

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

To Wash Combs. - Make a lather of soap and

wator. Take a small nail brush with crisp but

not unduly hard bristles, and apply the soap-

suds to the comb, biiishing from the back of

the comb to the edges of the teeth (left to

right) with a brisk even movement. This

brings out the dirt more effectively than by

brusliing the comb lengthways. Rinse well

in cold water. Xever lot the comb lie in hot

water - doing this is apt to bend it and make

it brittle.

Falling Hair. - Falling hair may as a rule be

regarded as a sign of ill health, hence it is

necessary that any bodily condition which may

be discovered as tending to produce the affliction

in question should be duly corrected. Among

lotions which may be used for strengthening

the growth of the hair and preventing its falling

out is that used by the late Sir Erasmus Wilson.

It consists of : -

Strong liquor of ammonia . . . J an ounce.

Chloroform J an ounce.

Oil of sesame } an ounce.

Oil of lemon } an ounce.

Spirits of rosemary being added up to 4 ounces.

A little of tliis . should be rubbed into the

scalp with a small sponge every other day.

The hair should bo parted from the nape of the

neck to the forehead, and the tonic well rubbed

into the parting thus made. Then the hair at

the sides should be separated into strands, and

the tonic applied to the scalp at the smaller

partings. This tonic is especially good for dry

hair.

For greasy hair the following preparation

should be used : -

Cantharides 2 drachms.

Oil of lemon J an ounce.

Bed lavender 2 druchms.

Spirits of Rosemary up to 4 ounces.

A little paraffin well rubbed into the scalp

at night-time with the tips of the fingers in

some cases swjta as a very efficient tonic.

One important point to remember is that the

hair and scalp should be well shampooed before

first beginning to use a hair tonic if the utmost

benefit is to bo derived from its use.

Grey Hairs. - As a rule fair-haired women do

not become grey with advancing years as soon

as their dark-haired sisters, and the woman with

dark hair is also the one most liable to be afflicted

with premature grej'ness.

Premature greyness can in many cases be

arrested, whilst the greyness that comes of

advancing years must neces-sarily take its course.

The woman whose locks show a tendency to

become grey before she has attained the ago of

thirty should at once consult a good hair

specialist, and so try to nip the mischief in the

bud.

Grey hairs, like wrinkles, are often caused

by constant worry or disorder of the nervous

system, and the general health requires atten-

tion if the progress of the wintry locks is to

be arrested. It h£is been said that constantly

washing the hair with soda is very conducive

to premature greyness. An excessively dry con-

dition of the scalp should be avoided, and some

good nourishing hair tonic regularly applied.

Dyeing the Hair. - The woman who wishes to

dye her hair to hide the grey of advancing years

would do well to think before she takes this

step. Locks that are dyed serve in some in-

explicable manner to emphasise the lines on the

face, and thus, if she manages to conceal age by

art in one direction, she only succeeds in em-

phasising it in the other. The young woman,

however, whose locks present early the pepper

and salt appearance which is often a prelude to

complete greyness, cannot be so much blamed

if she attempts to conceal by art what natural

means have failed to cure. One word of warn-

ing, however, in this direction - never attempt

the dyeing process yourself ; go to a good and

experienced hairdresser who knows from ex-

perience of the safest preparations, and who is

an expert in applying them in the proper

manner.

The amateur hair dyer has often awakened in

the morning to find her locks turned green or

some other weird colour. All her efforts to

alter their appearance has been unavailing, and

she has been compelled to go to a hair specialist

in the long riui. Needless to say, all her trouble

and anxiety would have been saved if she had

followed this course in the beginning.

False Hair. - False hair enters so largely into

the scheme of fashionable hair-dressing that a

few words on tho subject will not be amiss.

False curls, plaits, twists of all kinds are re-

quisitioned in the present-day coiffures, even

by those whose locks are natiirally abundant.

The wearing of masses of false curls over tho

natural hair cannot but bo harmful to th^ scalp,

which becomes unduly heated as the fresh air,

so essential to the health of the hair, is ex-

cluded. The weight of a light, false plait or

twist wound round tho head is almost imper-

ceptible, and so additions of this kind to tho

natural locks cannot do much harm, but it is

hoa\'y masses of curls and coils which should bo

avoided. If some addition is required to the

tresses, the best way is to save up one's hair

combings until there are sufficient for a plait,

a switch or coil, and send them to a good hair-

dresser to be made up. The combings must bo

kept in a well-closed box, and they should not

bo kept too long before being made up, or they

will become dull and lose their colour.

The Coiffure. - Whatever care may be given

to other details of the toilette will be nullified

to a certain extent by an ill-dressed head of

hair. The clever woman realises that her looks

depend a great deal upon the suitable arrange-

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

459

ment of her tresses, and she takes pains to dress

her hair to suit her face. When she possesses a

pretty forehead and well-arched eyebrows she

dresses her hair well away from the brows,

knowing that it is the style which will suit

her best.

If her face is unduly long, with prominent

features, she shuns the middle parting, which

could only add to its length. If, on the other

hand, it inclines to undue squareness or plump-

ness, she avoids the pompadour, which would

only tend to accentuate these defects.

There is nothing more unsightly than Ul-

kempt, straggly tresses, unless it is the hair

brushed up so stiffly and strained so tightly as

to give an appearance of being pulled out by

the roots.

Tliose who are wise realise that the hair is a

frame, as it were, to the face, which can be

made to beautify the picture it surrounds, or

else to detract very materially from its beauty.

Tlie best coiffures invariably convey an idea

of natui-alness of arrangement, although artificial

waving and other expedients may have been

resorted to in order to bring about the desired

results.

Waving and Curling the Hair. - It is not given

to us all to have natm-ally wavy or curly hair.

For those who are so fortunate as to possess it,

the difficulties of hair-dressing are materially

lessened, for wavy hair has a way of arranging

itself naturally and becomingly with very httle

care. It has the advantage also of never look-

ing really untidy, although " artistic untidiness "

is generally the effect of curly tresses, for the

little curls rebel at being unduly restricted by

hairpins and ribbons, and have a knack of

breaking away from the restraint of these

accessories of the coiffure upon the least pro-

vocation, but with the happiest results.

Where the hair is inclined to be fluff j' much

may be done to simulate the natural wave.

Of all forms of artificial waving that of doing up

the hair in good waving pins is perhaps the

most satisfactory for the woman who dresses

her own hair.

Nowadays, it is true, very excellent waving

and curling tongs and irons are sold, but to

use them satisfactorily requires the knack of a

trained coiffeur. The home use of curling and

waving irons of all kinds should be discouraged,

for the hair is often invariably impoverished by

constant burning with hot tongs. It requires

an expert to use them properly. If you

must use them, take a course of lessons in

waving from a good hairdresser, or, bettor still,

go to the hairdresser once a week or once a

fortnight to have the hair waved. What is

called the " Marcelle " wave will last a week or

even a fortnight with fluffy hair, and tho

hairdresser's charge as a rule does not come to

more than Is. M..

The Use of Waving and Curling Pins.- Of

curling and waving pins those sold by Messrs.

Hinde are perhaps amongst the best. Tliey

can be obtained from almost any hairdresser or

draper in the United Iviiigdom, and are very

easy to use. Upon getting up in the morning

separate the part of the hair which is to be

waved into strands, and twist each strand

round a waver. By the time the toilet is com-

plete and it is time to begin the coiffure, upon

taking out the pins it will be found that the hair

is well and naturally waved. If the hair is

inclined to be abnormally greasy, it will not

wave quite so quickly, then it will be neces-

sary sometimes to leave the pins in over -night.

This should not be done often, however, as the

hair needs rest during the night-time, and

should not be subjected to any unnecessary

strain if this can be avoided. A little rum or

spirit of any kind rubbed on to the hair before

waving will very often act as a most effective

curling fluid ; often also by slightly warming

the pins in the flame of a candle or a gas jet

before using, the hair will be found to wave much

more quickly. Fringes are very little worn at

the present day ; a few stray curls here and

there on the forehead are the utmost concession

made by fashion to those who find a fringe of

some kind necessary. One of Hinde's curlers

will be all that is necessary for the curling of

the present-day fringe. \Vhere the hair is

unusually dank and greasy two might be used,

but care must be taken to avoid the very

stiffly curled fringe which is now so terribly

deniode.

Dressing the Hair. - In almost every successful

coiffure the front and back portions of the hair

are dressed separately. After having waved the

hair, part it first of all from ear to ear. This

will separate the front and back portions.

Comb up the back portion towards the centre

of the back of the head, and if the hair is long

tie it in the required position, or fasten it with

a hair-binder. It is better not to tie short hair,

as more can be made of it if left loose. Then

take the front portion, shaking it down over

the face, and comb it well. If the pompadoiu*

effect is required, separate the hair into three

divisions, gently fluff the centre part of the

division with the comb, turn it up and fasten

into position with an ornamental comb. Do

the same with each of the side pieces, taking

care not to leave a parting on either side. With

fluffy hair the pompadour effect can be achieved

without the aid of a pad ; with very straight

hair a light pad is necessary - it must be a verj'

light one and the hair must not be strained too

tightly over it.

If a parting is required, part in two in tho

middle, take up each side separately, gently

push the hair forward, and keep it in place

with side -combs. Tlio harsh, even parting is a

thing of the past nowadays ; the hair is always

parted loosely, and a little wave made to fall

460

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

over tlie forehead on each side. If preferred

the parting can be made to come to one

side.

These preliminary steps carefully attended

to, the foundation of a good coiffiu-e is made ;

the hair can now be done in the style pre-

ferred.

Fashionable Coiffures. - In the winter season

190&-10, a stylo of hairdi-cssing known as the

" Turban Coiffiiro " was introduced into England

fiom Paris, and became pretty generally adopted

by all those who wished to bo " in the fashion."

A typical English Coiffure.

This style of head-dress, however, though

admirably suited to our fair neighbours across

the Channel, was by no means universally

becoming to English faces. The foundation of

the coiffure was a large turban frame which

fitted the head like a cap ; the hair was drawn

through a hole at the base of the frame and

arranged over it in a flat chignon or turban,

whilst a straight band of hair drawn round the

chignon so formed completed the coiffure. By

reason of its general unbecomingness to English

faces the reign of the " Turban " was short-

hved. English hairdressers met together in

conference to deliberate whether it was not

possible to design coiffures in England instead

of adopting the Paris stylos. As a result of

their deliberations, a typical English coiffure

has been introduced which bids fair to lead

the fashion for some time to come.

The curls which were so great a feature of

the fashion in coiffures during the early part

of 1909 have boon revived, only with a differ-

ence. Tlioy are much larger, and are generally

built on frames still retaining something of the

tiirban shape. Those are encircled by a coil

of hair drawn in many cases through tortoise-

shell rings, which form part of the ba"k-comb.

As an alternative a straiglit flat slide is worn

at the base of the hair. For evening dross throe

short ringlets are allowed to fall over the nape

of the neck at the back. Tlifse ringlets are as

a riile absent from the coiffure in the day-

time, although for very dressy occasions they

may sometimes be worn ; on these occasions.

however, the dress collar would have to

bo low.

The arrangement of the very dressy form of

the now coiffure can seldom bo effected by a

woman herself without tho help of a lady's-

maid, and some extraneous aid to her own locks

in tho form of curls, switches, &c. The simpler

forms, however, do not require so much elabora-

tion, although the same idea is maintained, and

a woman can effect tho fashionable arrangement

of her tresses without oven the aid of a hair-

frame in the following way.

If tho hair is long and plentiful, after arranging

and waving the front portion, take up all the

hair at the centre of the head at tho back and

tie it or fasten it with one of Hinde's hair-

binders in the centre of the head, leaving the

under portion of the hair hanging loose over

the shoulders. Then separate the bound por-

tion into strands, making several large curls,

take up the under portion and coil it loosely

round the curls, fix one of tho fasliionable hair-

slides in the hair just above the nape of the

neck, and the coiffure is complete.

With short hair, the hair should not be bound.

It should be separated into two portions in the

way already described ; the under portion should

be well pinned back while the upper portion is

being curled, then it should be divided into

two strands, whicli should be made to cross one

over the other at the back and twisted round on

either side of the head to give the appearance

of one complete strand.

A woman sometimes finds it very difficult to

make the fashionable cvu-ls by twisting strands

of hair over her fingers ; the curls are apt to

break and become loose when made in this

manner. Messrs. Burnet & Temple, Ltd., of

3 and 4 Fitchetts Court, London, E.C., have

brought out a very simple and ingenious device

by which curls and puffs can be made with the

least amount of troviblo. This consists of a

small wooden stick round which the hair is

rolled ; the stick is fittud with gi-ooves through

which a safety hairpin is inserted, fastening the

curl in place when the stick is removed.

It must be remembered that fashions in

millinery have a most decided influence upon

fashions in hairdressing ; a woman must

nowadays dress her hair to suit her hat, and

the latest evolution of the coiffure may bo

ascribed to the vogue for very large and

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

461

picturesque head-gear which has prevailed for

so long. As a relief from large hats, the turban

toques are equally fasliionable, and the simpler

form of hairdressing described is suitable for

either the one form of millinery or the other,

the only difference being that the bouffant

and vraved effects at the sides should be more

elaborate when wearing a large hat than with

the toque. In this latter case the side dressing

may be comparatively simple.

Combs and Slides. - Ornamental combs and

slides play an important part in the present

styles of hairdressing. The slide is particularly

useful as well as an ornamental accessory.

Placed as it is at the back of the coiffure, it

prevents the hair becoming caught in the hooks

or buttons of a high collar, and helps to keep

the cm-Is trim and tidy. Combs have very

deep, wide borders, which serve to convey

the appeaiunce of hair-slides when placed in

the hair. Very large tortoise-shell hairpins are

also worn ; in fact, it may be said that as waving

and curling is a feature of present-day hair-

dressing, the popularity of combs, fancy pins,

and other similar accessories will largely increase,

as they are most effective in accentuating the

deep waves and curls, and at the same time

serve to keep them in place, imparting a

" finished " appearance to the coiffure.

CARE OF THE HANDS

Many a woman who is on the whole particular

in regard to her general appearance is apt to

neglect the care of hei hands. This is a great

mistake, as ill-kept hands and nails are un-

sightly in the extreme, whilst a well-groomed

hand is not only pleasant to the eye, but is also

one of the best indications of refinement a

woman can possess.

Housework is often made the excuse for lack

of care in this direction. The average woman

is apt to entertain the idea that well-kept hands

are incompatible with the proper fulfilment of

domestic duties. Tliis is quite a fallacy, for

v^dth a little care the busy housewife can keep

her hands in as good condition as the lady of

leisure, who can afford to spend half-an-hour or

an hour at her manicurist whenever she feels

so inclined.

Thin rubber surgeon's gloves should be worn

when doing work which necessitates the hands

being constantly in and out of the water, such

as washing dishes, scrubbing, &c. A pair of

old gloves should always be kept in readiness

" for wear when dusting, sweeping, or performing

other similar duties. They should, if possible,

be a size too large, so as not to restrain the

circulation in any way. Gloves should also be

worn when engaged in gardening and other

out-of-door work.

How to Keep the Hands Clean. - Cleanhness

is, of course, the fii'st essential in this portion

of the toilet. The hands should be well washed

in good soap and warm water softened with a

Uttle borax or some good toilet vinegar night

and morning, and, whenever neceasary, during

the day. A good nail-brush with firm bristles

should be used for scrubbing the nails, and

pumice stone or lemon or both for remoxing

stains from the hands and fingers. When the

hands become soiled and greasy after the per-

formance of household duties, a little cold

cream or white vaseline should be rubbed well

into them before and after washing, in order

to keep the skin smooth and soft. On home

washing days, when there is a great deal of

laundry work to be done, after being immersed

for a long time in the wash-tub the hands are

apt to assume a rather harsh, wrinkled appear-

ance. This can be cured by dipping them into

a Uttle vinegar ; they should then be rubbed

with cold cream, as after the performance of

other household duties.

After washing and drying the hands before

going to bed at night, glycerine and rose-water,

or red lavender, mixed in the proportions of

two parts glycerine to one of red lavender,

should be rubbed into the skin. To do this

thoroughly it is well to rub the mixture well

into the palms and then rub the hands together

as in washing.

When the work of the house has been abnor-

mally heavy, and, in spite of all precautions,

the hands have become a little rough, it is

advisable to wear a pair of large chamois

leather gloves at night, or a pair of old kid

gloves one or two sizes too large. Gloves of

the normal size would not do. They would

only restrict the healthy circulation of the

blood, and red, not white hands would be the

result.

Drying the Hands. - ^The importance of

thoroughly drying the hands after washing

cannot be too highly estimated. A neglect of

this causes the skin to become red and coarsened,

and in winter time chapped hands and often

chilblains are the result. Many a busy house-

wife is content, after hurriedly washing her

hands, to dry them perhaps on a kitchen roller

towel, the latter being most probably wet

already through constant use. Every bit as

much care should be taken in drying the hands

as in washing them. Tliey should be dried first

with an ordinary linen towel, and then well

rubbed with a soft Turkish towel. An added

precaution to take would be to dust tliem over

with fine oatmeal, a Uttle Fuller's earth, or any

good toilet powder.

For the treatment of chilblains, see Homo

Nursing.

Care of the Nails, Manicure. - Every woman

should be able to manicure her hands and nails

for herself. The process is a very simple one

and only requires a Uttle care and the proper

implements.

462

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The following articles are necessary for the

use of the homo manicurist : -

A packet of orange sticks for pushing back the skin.

A small nail file.

A small brush.

A pair of curved nail scissors.

Some good cold cream.

A box of nail powder.

A nail polisher.

Some fine emery or sand-paper.

Cases contmning the orange sticks, nail file and

brush and polisher can be obtained from any

perfumers for the small sum of lO^d. or one

Curved Xail-Scissors.

Nail Polisher.

shilling, wliilst most leather merchants sell

compact little cases containing -the curved

scissors as well for from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. The

manicure powder can be obtained from all

perfumers and chemists in boxes of from six-

pence upwards. It is as well of course to get as

good a set of implements as possible, as a little

additional money spent on the original outlay

will pay in the long run.

To Manicure the Nails. - ^Take some warm

■water and make a good lather of soap-suds.

Add a few drops of Eau de Cologne or toilet

vinegar and the juice of half a lemon. Soak

the fingers for from five to ton minutes in the

soap-suds. This process has the effect of

softening the nails so that they axe ready for

attention. Then after having rubbed a little

cold cream well into the skin round the base of

the nails, press the skin well back with the orange

stick, not only at the base but all round the

nails. By doing this those half-moons which

are so dainty and attractive a feature of well-

kept nails are brought into view. Tlie cuticle

of the nail should never be touched with the

scissors unless it is absolutely necessary to use

them to cut a hang -nail.

The nails should now bo cut round the edges

if necessary, and filed into shape with thf' little

file. The curve of the nail shovild be trimmed

to follow that of tho finger-tips. The ideal nail

is of an oval form, and although we do not all

have the good fortune to possess oval finger-tips,

a little careful manipulation in the trimming of

the nails will do a great deal in giving them an

oval appearance as far as possible. Constant

practice works wonders in the proper manipula-

tion of the nail file.

After the nails have been carefully filed, a

little of the sand-paper should bo used to smooth

away tho rough edges.

Finally the nail powder should be applied

with the bru.sh, and the nails should be gently

polished with the poHshor. The latter consist

of a little instrument somewhat in the shape of

a miniature ii'on with the flat part co^•erod with

chamois leather. If no polisher is available,

it is often sufficient to rub the nails against the

palm of the hand.

After tliis treatment has been gone through,

the nails will assume that pink and polished

appearance which adds so muoh to tht^ir beauty,

and which is quite easily attainable by the

expenditure of a little care.

The manicuring process should be gone

tlirough at least once a week. Every day, how-

ever, the cuticle of the nail should be pushed

back with the orange stick after washing, or

even with the towel. The polisher should then

be used with light rapid friction, and this daily

attention will keep the nails in proper condition.

A very good substitute for ordinary nail-

polishing powder can be obtained from Messrs.

Pritchard & Constance, of 64 Haymarkot,

London. It is sold under the trademark of

" Amami " Polishing Stone, for the moderate

price of sixpence. Amami Nail-PoUshing Stone

is no trouble : merely rub on the moistened palm

of the hand, first the stone, and then the finger

nails ; the thumb nails should be done sepa-

rately. A lasting pearly polish appears at once.

The substance of the stone, in addition to being

quite harmless, tends to preserve in good con-

dition both the nails and the cuticle.

Wbere the nails are unduly dry and brittle,

a little olive oil rubbed into them at night will

do wonders in restoring them to good condition.

CARE OF THE EYES, EYEBROWS,

AND EYELASHES

Not only are the eyes the all-essential organs

of sight, but they have also been described as

the " Jlirror of the Soul." They reflect our

thoughts, our intellect, our emotions, and our

sympathies, giving to the face that spiritualness

which forms its chief beauty. Tliej' ''an be

made indeed the most formidable weapon in

the armoury of woman's charm, and yet they

are the very organs of lier body which she is

the most inclined to abuse and neglect.

The average woman thinks nothing of strain-

ing her eyes over books or needlework in an

indifferent light. It is bad for the eyes even

in a good light to strain them over small print

or minute stitches for hours at a stretch. Tho

eyes require rest as much as the other organs

of the body, and if they are required to do more

than their fair share of work they are bound to

suffer in the long run.

In the evening, when artificial light is required,

bo careful to sit with your back to the light, so

that it is thrown on the pages of the book,

and not straight into the eyeballs. The light

should be shaded. Dark green shades are the

most restful to the sight, and lamps and lights

should be covered with them wherever possible.

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

463

Electric light, which is apt to bo dazzling in its

brilliancy, should always be shaded in green

or some other soft colour.

From the point of view of our personal hygiene

the care of the eyes and eyebrows, eyeUds and

eyelashes, should receive daily consideration.

The eyes are natxirally at their best, of course,

when the health is at its best. Notliing can

impart to the pupils the brilliancy of good

health. Very often drugs such as belladonna

are resorted to to give them the sparkle and

sliine which for some cause they lack. This is

a most injurious practice, and can be productive

of nothing but harm.

Wlien washing in the morning care should

be taken that the secretions which have accumu-

lated in the corner of the eyes during sleep are

removed. These, be it noted, shoxild be washed

out with warm water. It is inad\dsable to rub

into the corner of the eyes with a towel in order

to dislodge the secretions, as inflammation is

very often caused in this way. At night-time

also care should be taken that the eyes are

given their proper share of consideration in the

evening toilet.

Use of the Eye-cup. - When the secretions

which accumulate round the eyes during the

night are found to be so unduly heavy as to bo

difficult to dislodge in the morning, to thoroughly

purify the eye it will be found necessary to use

an eye-cup. Tliis is a little glass cup made in

the shape of the eyeball. It should

be filled with warm water in which

a pinch of boracic powder has been

dissolved. Kold the cup towards the

eye, lower the head slightly to meet

it, and it will be found that the eye-

cup fits round the eye exactly. Tilt

the head backwards and forwards, holding the

cup into position, and open and close the eyelid in

the water until the eye is thoroughly cleansed.

Dab gently with a small piece of soft rag to dry,

and repeat the treatment with the other eye.

The eye-cup can also be used at night to remove

tho dust and dirt which have accumulated

during the day. In all cases where the nature

of the daily occupation forces the eyes to go

through a hea\'y strain, such as literary work,

constant typeing, proof-reading, dressmaking,

&c., the daily use of the eye-cup will prove a

most beneficial tonic.

When the eyes have been so severely strained

that they are red and inflamed round the rims,

and the secretions are so extensive that it is

sometimes difficult to open the lids in the

morning, a lotion should be used after bathing.

This should be prescribed by a good oculist.

In all cases of persistent trouble with the eyes

an oculist should be at once consulted. There

are people who, upon the first signs of eye-strain,

rush to the nearest optician, buy a pair of glasses,

and think that they have done all that is re-

quired. This mode of procedure may answer

Eye-cup.

with luck, but most ofton it results in per-

manent injury to the eyesight. There is

nothing more injurious f(r the eyes than un-

suitable glasses. Glasses should only be made

to the prescription of a good oculist who, after

thorough examination and testing of the patient's

sight, knows exactly what is required. Very

often glasses are not required, and a simple

lotion will sot the trouble right. So those who,

upon the first little trouble with their eyes, are

inclined to at once buy spectacles, should be

wise and find out first if they are really needed

before they ruin their eight for life.

Eyebrows and Eyelashes. - Well-marked eye-

brows and good lashes are invaluable aids to

beauty, and although it is not possible for us

all to attain the Mgh arched brows and long

curling lashes which form the ideal of the artist,

yet with care we can train our brows and lashes

to sometliing very near it.

■Wliere the brows and laishes are thin, vaseline

or cocoa-butter well rubbed into them at night

serve to promote their growth ; but the treat-

ment must be persisted in regularly to pro-

duce results.

When the eyebrows are unduly straight,

by careful manipulation with the fingers when

applying the vaseUne, and pinching the hair

with a semicircular movement upwards, thej'

can be trained into something like the arched

brows we all covet. The vaseline should be

applied to the eyelashes gently and carefullj',

either with the tip of the first finger or the end

of a match covered witli a piece of soft rag.

It should be applied under tho lashes, which

should be gently coaxed outwards and upwards

to induce them to curl at the tips. 'Wlien tlus

has been done, dab the eyelids gently with a

piece of clean soft rag to remove all superfluous

vaseline, which, if allowed to remain, might

cause the lashes to stick together. Under no

consideration attempt to touch the lashes with

the scissors under the impression that by

clipping their growth will be improved.

The hair should never be dressed to fall

very low over the forehead so as to cover the

brows. A coiffure of this kind tends to wear

away the eyebrows and impede their growth.

Brusliing the brows with a small brow -brush

night and morning goes a long way towards

improving their appearance.

There is not much use in ha\-ing pretty brows,

however, if we mar them by continual frowning.

The frowning habit gnoNvs upon one imper-

ceptibly, and it is a habit very hard to correct.

Persistent frowning brings those unsightly little

lines between the brows which does so much to

spoil their beauty. Tliej' can be removed in

time with persistent care and treatment (see

p. 450) ; but a habit once contracted is hard

to get rid of, and no matter liow often the little

lines are effaced, if the frowning habit con-

tinues they will reappear.

464

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

CARE OF THE TEETH

Too much stress jannot bo laid upon the

extreme importance of the proper caxe of tho

teeth. Indigestion and other gastric troubles

are often traced to decayed and defective teeth.

To masticate food properly good teeth are of

paramount importance. To keep the teeth and

mouth clean is one of the surest methods of

keeping them sound. Care should bo taken,

therefore, that all particles of food which collect

between the teeth are dislodged by aid of the

tooth-brush.

The teeth should be brushed at least twice a

day, night and morning, and also after meals

if possible. A good tooth powder should be

used, and tho teeth bruslicd not only across,

but also up and down, the teeth of the upper

jaw being brushed downwards, and those of the

lower jaw beting brushed upwards. Attention

should also be paid to tho gums. They should

be brushed as carefully as the teeth. Tho

mouth might be also rinsed with a good anti-

septic mouth wEish every evening. Calvert's

Carbolic Tooth Powder or precipitated chalk are

very good for cleansing purposes, and used in

conjunction with a mouth wash, in accord-

ance with the directions given, will serve to

keep the mouth and teeth in a clean and whole-

some condition. ^Vhere teurtar accumulates upon

the teeth to any great extent, it should be

scraped off by a dentist. It is superfluous to

add that when tooth decay does make its

appearance tlie dentist should at once be

consulted and the ill thoroughly remedied. It

is not generally kno\vn that a milk diet is very

injurious to the teeth; tho milk, becoming acid

on the gums, destroj'S the enamel. This may be

obviated by using a good pinch of carbonate

of soda in the water with which the teeth are

brushed.

The care of her teeth is apt to be too much

neglected by tho average woman ; and yet it is

quite a simple matter to keep them clean and

healthy, and a little care in this direction brings

its reward an hundred -fold. Leaving all ques-

tions of health apart, haA and badly-kept teeth

spoil the prettiest face, whilst good, well-kept

teeth have often the effect of redeeming a

countenance from actual plainness.

CARE OF THE FEET

Regular care of tho feet is as important as

regular care of the hands.

The toe-nails should bo kept well trimmed,

but they should not be cut too short. Unlike

the finger nails, they should bo cut straight and

not in a curve, as it is injurious to cut too far

down into the side of the toe-nail. Doing this

serves to increase the tendency of the nail to

grow inwards at the comers where such a ten-

dency eidsts. Boots with pointed toes should

never bo worn, as they compress the toos in-

wards in accordance with tho shape of the

boot, in some cases to such an extent that

the great and little toes very nearly meet.

The pointed shoe or boot is the cause of bunion.s,

corns, and nearly every foot deformity. When

corns and bunions make their ai^poaranco they

should be at once treated, as, if neglected, they

not only cause a large amount of pain, but in

some cases actually cripple the sufferer. (For

treatment, see Home Nursing. )

To Cure Ingrowing Toe-Nails. - An ingrowing

toe-nail can very often be cured in its first stages

by the following simple means : - With a sharp

pair of scissors make a V-shaped incision in

the centre of the top of the nail, and insert a

piece of cotton wool between tho nail and the

toe at the corner in which the nail shows a

tendency to grow into tho flesh. The nail will

gradually grow at each side towards the incision

until the latter is closed, and the tendency to

grow inwards at the corner of the too will thus

be effectively checked.

Perspiring Feet. - Some people are afflicted

with feet that perspire to an abnormal degree.

Tliis is an extremely unpleasant affliction,

arising very often from some defect in the

general health. It frequently occurs in children,

often disappearing altogether as they grow older ;

but with adults, as a rule, the trouble is more

persistent.

In all cases strict cleanliness must be observed.

The feet should be bathed at night in warm

water to which a little Condy's Fluid heis been

added in tho proportion of a tea -spoonful of

Condy's Fluid to a pint of water. They should

bo bathed in tliis way after any considerable

exercise has been indulged in. Light woollen

stockings should be worn - never cotton ones -

and these should be frequently changed. Some-

times it will be found necessary to put on a

fresh pair of stockings every day. Strict atten-

tion must also bo given to tho general health.

In many cases it will be found that a good tonic

will be beneficial.

Tired and Sore Feet. - There are some kinds of

work which entail a woman being a groat deal

on her feet, and often her foot become very

tired and sore in consequence. There is nothing

more refreshing in these circumstances than to

sponge the feet with a little methylated spirits.

This treatment will cause tho soreness and

fatigue to disappear, and will, in addition, be

wondorfuUy refreshing.

CARE OF THE EARS

Wax should never be allowed to accumu-

late in tho ears. When the wax has become

so hardened that it is difficult to dislodge,

take enough soda to covnr a threepenny piece,

dissolve this in a dessert -spoonful of water, and

gontly drop it into the ear at night. This

HEALTH AND THE TOILET

465

will serve effectively to loosen the wax. In no

case attempt to dislodge wax by means of

hair-pins or any other sharp instrument. Much

injury can be done to the ears in this way.

In many cases it will be necessary to syringe

the ear with a special ear syringe.

MAKING UP

How far it is justifiable to have recourse to

art as an aid to good looks is, and has ever been,

a much debated question. Before, however,

trying to improve her appearance by the aid

of " make up," a woman should pause and

think, for once she has started making up there

will be no going back ; she will have to con-

tinue to do so. The pity of it is that it is most

often the women whose skins and complexions

leave nothing to be desired who are the first

to havo recourse to the aid of the rouge -box,

and who thus inevitably ruin their natural com-

plexions in the cult of the artificial.

There are some women, however, who, from

chronic ill-health or other causes, have such

sallow, unpleasing -looking skins that one cannot

blame them for seeking some sort of an aid to

beauty - that is to say, if they make up so

cleverly that the most practised eye cannot

detect it. The art of make up lies in concealing

the fact that art has been called in as an aid

to natiu-e. It is the clumsy and vulgar display

of rouge, the emphasising of the fact that the

complexion is fals-?, that jars so much upon

persons of refinement. On the other hand, one

cannot help but admire the woman who makes

up so cleverly that no one can tell her com-

plexion is not natural.

The first care of the woman who makes up

must be to do it well ; secondly, and by no means

loss important, she must never allow herself

to be seen without her make up. She should

make up the first thing in the morning, and not

follow the example of some women who make a

point of donning their complexions with their

visiting toilettes. A woman who acts in this

way carmot conceal the fact that she has

recourse to art, as the difference between her

natural complexion and her artificial one will

be too marked to escape general notice.

How to Make Up. - If a woman must make

up it ia necessary that she should know how to

do so without injuring the texture of her skin

in the process. Before attempting to apply the

rouge, the face should be thoroughly washed

with soap and warm water. After drying rub

some good skin food well into the skin pores

and wipe it o2 with a piece of soft rag. Tlien

apply a smaU quantity of the rouge to the

cheeks, finishing the process by dusting some

good powder over the face. Take off all

superfluous powder with a clean face chamois

leather.

Rouge may be had in the form of liquid,

powder, or paste.

Powder. - Powder for the face is now in such

general use that it has almost ceased to be

regarded as a cosmetic. Yet in spite of this,

great care must be taken in its application.

The face thickly coated with powder is not

pretty to look upon, and the pores of the skin

become very much coarsened as a result of its

indiscriminate use. Then some of the cheaper

powders contain very injurious ingredients.

Some face powders are, however, great boons to

very greasy skins, but they must only be lightly

dusted over the face with a clean powder puff

or face leather, and then all superfluous powder

should be dusted off. Care should be taken to

use only the pure powders, avoiding all pre-

parations containing merciuy and arsenic.

The Poudre Simon is one of the best face powders

to be had. It should be used sparingly in con-

jimction with Creme Simon if possible. The

Creme Simon, which is not the least bit greasy,

should be gently massaged into the skin, and

then rubbed off and the powder applied after-

wards.

Care must be taken to remove all traces of

powder and make up before retiring to rest at

night. To do this some good cold cream or

white vaseline should be rubbed lightly over

the face with a gentle massage movement,

then wiped off with a piece of clean soft rag,

and the face washed with soap and wsurm

water.

Papiers Poudris. - ^The little leaflets known as

Papiers Poudr^s are invaluable to the woman

who is a great deal out of doors in the warm

weather. They consist of diminutive sheets

of paper finely powdered at one side and enclosed

in a booklet from which they are easily detach-

able. One of these little leaflets gently passed

over the face when it is greasy and perspiring

will remove not only superfluous moisture, but

all dust and dirt. The Papiers Poudr6s may

be piirchased from most chemists.

THE CHILD

"With mothers who wish conscientiovisly to fulfil their duty towards their children in every way

a certain sense of responsibility is ever present. They do not always know how to act in varying

circumstances wliich may crop up, whether in connection with the rearing of their children in ii\f ancy,

the care of their health in childhood, or the important question of education in later years. It is

said that knowledge comes with experience, but too often this knowledge will have been only too

-deeurly bought I The advice in regard to the management of children contained in this chapter is

the result of experience, and it is trusted that many a mother who is in doubt in regard to any parti-

cular question of child management, may find a way out of her difficiilty by referring to these pages,

-and so take swivantage of the experience gained by others.

PREPARING FOR MOTHERHOOD

Very soon in the married lives of most young

wives comes a time when the knowledge is

brought home to them that they are to be called

upon to fulfil woman's noblest mission - the

mission of motherhood. To the really womanly

wife, the thought that she is to become a mother

will be sweet indeed, joy tempered with a sense

of reverence maybe at the great responsibility

of the little Ufe to be entrusted to her care. That

there should be a little nervotisness at the pros-

pect, too, is perhaps not unnatural, but it should

be but passing when it is remembered that, by

careful living during the months prior to baby's

birth, nature will be materially assisted, and

will, in her own way, reward the expectant

mother who has helped her.

A woman can never sufficiently realise the

importance of those months before her little one

is born. She should remember that if she builds

up her strength during this period, she will not

• only be much better fitted for the ordeal before

her, but she will also fulfil her responsibility to

the little life in her keeping, for it is well known

that upon the care taken of herself by the mother

during pregnancy will largely depend the future

health of her child.

The expectant mother should lead a simple

and regular yet gently active life, a strict ob-

servance of the laws of hygiene being more than

ever important at this period, when not only her

own welfare, but also that of her child must be

ecured. Too much stress cannot be laid upon

the necessity for plenty of pure fresh air, whole-

some food taken at regular meals, sufficient

exercise, judicious rest, and hygienic and cheer-

ful surroundings. If any of these are wanting,

then the health of both mother and child will be

needlessly jeopardised.

Pure Air. - Plenty of pvire freeh air is the first

important essential. Enjoying the benefit of

the air out of doors is not sufficient - indoors all

the rooms should be fresh and well ventilated.

The bedroom window especially should alvraj's

be kept open at the top. Plenty of fresh air at

night will do a great deal to obviate that tendency

to sleeplessness which often manifests itself

towards the end of the period of waiting.

Exercise. - Sufficient exercise, including the

daily walk in the open air, is also a necessity.

The woman wlio thinks her whole day should

he spent reclining upon a couch, and imagines

herself incapable of exertion of any kind, is

storing up much future ill for both herself and

her child. She must have regular exercise,

going cheerfully through the performance of

hght household duties, though any straining in

the way of reaching up to high shelves, lifting

heavy weights, &c., must, of course, be avoided.

Though exercise in moderation is beneficial, it

should not be indulged in to excess. A woman

should not take such long walks as to cause

exhaustion, nor should she indulge in violent

exercise such as is afforded by tennis and other

similar games. Riding and cycling should also

bo given up. Tlie enthusiastic follower of all

kinds of athletic pursuits should take special

warning, for if she continues to indulge in these

pastimes to any groat extent, she will use up all

her strength and energy and will therefore have

no reserve to draw upon when the time comes

when both will be so greatly needed. Another

important thing to bear in mind is that during

the first three months and the last few weeks

of pregnancy travelling by bus, train, or tram

should be avoided as far as possible, for the

disturbing influence of the severe jolting often

experienced in this way is most injurious, and

a miscarriage at times may be the result.

Diet. - Strict attention to diet is all-important.

Meals should be taken at regular intervals.

"66

THE CHILD

467

Eating should not be indiilged in between meals.

Heavy and highly seasoned foods should be

avoided, also pastry and other sweet things

likely to cause that much -dreaded ill - indigestion.

Plenty of fruit and green vegetables should be

taken, as these will tend to prevent constipation.

Very fattening and starchy foods should be only

taken sparingly. Excessive tea or coffee-drink-

ing is most injurious - though, if taken in modera-

tion, tea is really an excellent beverage. Plenty

of milk should always be taken if possible. Good

cooking is essential. The diet should also be

pleasantly varied, as the distaste for food so

often resulting from monotony must be avoided

at all costs. It is a mistake to think that stimu-

lants are necessary during this period. Indeed,

they are apt to be actually harmful at times,

and should never be taken excepting under

medical advice.

The Daily Bath. - This is most important in

pregnancy. There is less likely to be kidney

trouble when the bath is taken regularly. Any

puffiness of the face or Hmbs should, however,

be reported to the doctor, as early treatment

will often prevent tiresome complications later

on.

Rest. - The maxim " Early to bed and early

to rise " should be religiously observed by the

expectant mother. At least eight hours of sleep

should be aimed at. Ten o'clock is a good

hour for retiring, 7 or 7.30 o'clock a good time

for rising in the morning, and unless there

is trouble with " morning sickness," breakfast

should be taken downstairs. A freshly-made

cup of tea takon before rising is often helpful.

Every day an hour's rest should be taken in a

darkened room on bed or sofa after the mid-day

meal. Rest of the body is not the only essential,

for rest of the mind is almost as important in

every way. On account of the severe strain to

which her nervous system is being subjected,

a woman is more inclined to give way to irrita-

biUty and nerves at this than at any other time.

She should guard herself against this tendency

by being firmly determined never to worry

over trifles, and doing her utmost to maintain

an attitude of calm equanimity. Self-control

should be aimed at upon all occasions, and a

cheerful, happy, and contented frame of mind

should be cultivated. Any tendency to morbid

despondency must be sternly combated. It

must be remembered that cheerful and beautiful

surroundings do more than anything else to

foster cheerfulness of mind, a fact that should

be remombered by friends and relations. Any

sudden news entailing either excessive grief or

excessive joy is harmful, and shocks of any kind

should be avoided. Late hours and all kinds of

excitement sliould be altogether abjured. Going

to At Homes or theatres means spending a num-

ber of hours in stuffy, ill-ventilated rooms and in

an atmosphere of excitement which is far from

beneficial. The expectant mother should be

prepared to forego these amusements, realising

that a power of self-sacrifice is not one of the

least attributes which will qualify her for the

noble mission of motherhood. All social inter-

course, however, need not be abandoned during

these months of waiting. Simple little social

gatherings and the society of bright and cheerful

friends will do good. It is the constant striv-

ing after pleasure and excitement, the strain of

keeping up with an endless round of social en-

gagements, which is harmful. All morbid and

sensational literature should be avoided. Let

the woman who is to be a mother cultivate

beautiful thoughts by reading wise and beautiful

books. Let her frame of mind be such as will

fit her to guide the mind of the Uttle life entrusted

to her care. Such, no doubt, has been the mental

attitude of the mothers of many of our wise men

and brave heroes, and such should be the mental

attitude of the mother who wishes to qualify

herseK in every way for the high calUng of

motherhood.

Dress during this period is an important

consideration. In the first place hygiene and

comfort must be studied, and as far as possible

an effort must be made to avoid appearing

conspicuous. In regard to the wearing of

corsets, opinions differ, though it is generally

acknowledged that it is \^er not to discard

them. To wear tight stays would be foolish

and harmful, and corsets of the straight -fronted

type mu.^t be altogether tabooed. There are

special corsets, however, particularly suitable

for maternity wear. These are very hghtly

boned, opening at the sides, and expandable.

They are very comfortable and afford great

support to the figure. If the breasts become

very enlarged and tender, what are known as

" bust corsets " should be worn over the regular

stays. They may be obtained from most drapers

for a very small outlay. All clothing should be

warm and hght, whilst compression of any part

of the body should be avoided. Suspenders

should be worn instead of garters, as the latter

tend to impede the circulation. High-heeled

shoes are always injiu-ious, but they are more

than ever so at this time. Wliile care is taken

to dress hygienically and sensibly, a woman

should not give way to the inclination of being

careless and indifferent in regard to her personal

appearance. She should endeavour to drees

both indoors and out of doors as neatly as pos-

sible under the circvuustances.

It is inadvisable to spoil good clothes by alter-

ing them and attempting to adapt them to the

increasing figure. Good gowns tinkered about

with in this way can seldom bo worn afterwards.

It is also most injurious for a woman to endeavour

to squeeze herself into tight gowns at those

times. She will naturally wish to avoid looking

conspicuous, bvit she will only make matters

worse by resorting to the measiu-es above

described. Special maternity dresses with ad-

468

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

just able bands arc made at all the leading Iswlies'

costumiers and outfitting establisliments, and

every woman who prizes her health as well as

her appearance should invest in one or two of

these garments at such times. It is quite easy

to ask for the lady at the head of the costume

department at one of these establishments and

explain to her wliat is wanted. The dresses are

fitted by expert fitters who thoroughly under-

stand their work, and such a garment cannot fail

to prove satisfactory in every way. Ladies

also make a mistake in wearing heavy loose

voluminous cloaks at these times. A well-

fitting skirt specially made and a long coat are

the ideal outdoor wear for the expectant mother.

None but dark colotu-s should be worn, as hght

colours only serve to attract attention to the

figure.

Indoor gowns should be made of voile and

other light-weight materials, as these do not tend

to look bulky at the waist. Skirts to indoor

dresses should also be specially made mounted

upon elastic bands, the front gore extending

above the waist-band so that it can easily be let

down, with pleats at the side that can be let

out. These skirts can often be undertaken at

home by the good needlewoman with the aid of

a suitable pattern. A prettily made tea-gown

is also a very useful garment for indoor wear.

INCIDENTAL AILMENTS

A woman is very prone to various nervous and

digestive cUsorders at this time, and though

these can Ido greatly minimised by careful living,

yet thoy are apt to occiir in some form or other

in spite of every precaution, and always call for

judicious treatment. Chief amongst these ail-

ments are : -

Morning Sickness. - During the early months

especially vomiting is apt to occur almost at

the same time every morning. Strict attention

to the diet must be paid. The action of the

bowels must also be properly regulated. Rest in

bed daily until the time when the vomiting is

apt to occur has passed will often prove a good

preventative. Very often nausea and sickness

occur after meaLs. If this trouble is pcrsiftent a

doctor should be consultcd,and the paticntfahould

be put upon a special diet.

Sleeplessness is another common feature of the

condition, especially during the later months.

As a rule, it will bo found much ea-^ier to resume

one's rest after a thorough rousing and a cup of

hot milk, with maybe ton minutes' light reading,

t! an to toss from side to side endeavouring in

vain to court the sleep one needs so badly.

Material comfort will also help, and, besides two

pillows beneath the head, try a third, placed

(parallel ^vith the others) beneath the ribs, so

that, while lying on the side, the arm can be

placed between the two sets of pillows without

suffering undue pressure. Heavy meals at night

should bo avoided, and the bedroom should be

properly ventilated.

Toothache may, during pregnancy, generally

be relieved bj' taking fifteen to twenty grains

of phosphate of lime, incorporated in tho food,

twice daily.

Heartburn is due to indigestion, and rich food

should be strictly avoided by those subject to

this distressing complaint. Take occasionally

some calcined magnesia (the dose to be advised

by chemist or doctor), or half a tea-spoonful of

bicarbonate of soda in a wine-glassful of warm

water.

Constipation will probably cease if fresh fruit

be eaten each morning on rising. See to it

that sufficient drink is taken also, particularly of

cold water, early in the day. If possible, over-

come the constipation by attention to diet

rather than by drugging, but on no account

allow it to continue, or your recovery may be

considerably retarded after baby's arrival.

Nervous Worry may evidence itself by a

tendency to magnify trifles, which at other times

would pass unnoticed, into positive calamities,

while noises, sights, and smells which, under

ordinary circumstances, would be accounted

notliing, will sometimes thoroughly upset a

woman in this condition.

She will also often give way to tears upon the

least provocation. A regular simple mode of

life with the avoidance of all excitement and

determined effort to exercise self-control will do

much to remedy this state of things.

Varicose Veins and swelling of the feet are

apt to occur. In these circumstances it is neces-

sary to rest with the feet up as much as possible.

The legs should be bandaged ; crepe bandag'.'S

are much the best for the purpose, as they aie

light, elastic, easily washed, and give great

support. Tlacy should be three inches in width

ai^d cost about Is. 8d. each.

THE MOTHER'S REQUIREMENTS

Early selection should bo made of tho room

in which the lying-in is to take place in order

that everything is in readiness. Tlie room

chosen should be as large and airy as possible,

and situated preferably in a quiet part of the

house, where there will not be undue disturb-

ance from street and other noises. Cleanliness

and freedom from germs is indispensable, and

a few days before the room is likely to be

required it should be thoroughly cleaned. The

bod should not be placed with one side to the

wall, but in a position which will allow plenty

of space at either side. A screen will bo useful

to keep off draughts. A fire should be laid in

the grate, so that it can be Hghted when needed

and a kettle placed in readiness in which water

can bo boiled, as plenty of hot water will bo

required.

Do not leave everything until tho last moment,

THE CHILD

469

or in an emergency unstiitable and unnecessary

purchases will likely be made. As a rule, the

niirse or doctor will give instructions as to what

to provide, but if not it will be wise to have the

following in the house : -

Three yards gamgee tissue.

One pound absorbent cotton wool.

Two or three packets sanitary towels (2s. 6d.

size).

One bottle Lysol (disinfectant).

One pot good vaseline.

One or two dozen nickel safety-pins.

Two and three-quarter yards fine linen towel-

ling for binders.

A mackintosh sheet one yard square (this must

be mackintosh on both sides).

A bed-pan (sUpper shape preferred).

Some yellow soap (Castile or Prinu-ose).

A leel of white hnen tliread.

A bottle of castor-oil.

A small supply of brandy.

One dozen night-lights (eight hovirs size).

A rubber hot-water bottle.

Night-dresses and bed-linen (well aired).

A supply of bedroom towels.

BABY'S OUTFIT

This should bo all in readiness about two

months before baby is expected. The number

and style of the Httle tilings will to a large extent

depend upon the social position of the mother

and the means at disposal, and the following

suggestions arc only offered as a guide.

Baby's Bassinette or Cot. - This is an absolute

necessity, as a baby should never be allowed to

sleep in the same bed as its mother. Tliere are

several different kinds of cots at prices ranging

from a few sliillings to several pounds. There

is no need to buy anything elaborate unless one

is willing to spend a large sum.

For a simple bassinette perhaps there is nothing

betterthan one of the Japanese travelling baskets.

The two pieces should be comfortably lined with

Japanese Basket.

quilted sateen or some good washing material,

and while one piece serves as the bed, thr other

can be placed over the end to act as a shade and

screen. Tliis improvised bassinette has also the

advantage of being very light and easily moved

about, and, again, if travelling has to be done it

will form a receptacle for baby's little wardrobe.

Then there are also the basket and metal cots.

These are generally trimmed with pink or blue

sateen covered with wlute muslin and laco or

with a simple covering of some pretty light -

coloured washing material. There must always

be a curtain or hood to protect the little sleeper

from the light or a draught, and the cot must also

Basket as Cradle.

be raised above the ground on a steady stand.

Tt is best to have it the height of the mother's

bed.

A well-made wicker bassinette costs from

3s. 6d. and upwards, and a stand 5s. or 6s. extra,

while the metal cots swung on a stand can be had

for 10s. and upwards. If bought ready trimmed

they -will cost from about 30s. extra, according

to the material chosen and the amount of work

put on it. Many, however, prefer to trim their

bassinette at home, and for a few shillings it is

quite possible to make a very dainty little bed.

The accompanying illustration shows one of the

simplest styles. Pink and blue are the favourite

Trimmed Bassinette.

colours for trimming a bassinette, although somo

prefer to keep them all white. Cotton sateen

with a covering of plain or spotted muslin are the

usual materials employed. Tlie inside must first

be lined ^rith quilted sateen or with plain sateen

and a domette interlining. Cut the muslin frill

half as full again as the size of the cot and deep

enougli to allow of a wide hem. Or it may be

edged with some pretty lace. Tliere should also

be a frill of the coloured sateen under the muslin,

but this %\-ill not require to be so wide. Draw

up both frills, sew them to the edge of the cot.

470

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

T\\e curtain is made with muslin lined with the

coloured satoen and is generally trimmed with

laco. It should bo two and a half or three y6""ds

in width and long enough to clear the ground by

four or five inches. Draw it up vrith a strong

tape at the top and fix it to the arm of the cot.

Then finish o£f with rosettes of coloured ribbon.

The other requirement for the cot will bo a tiny

hair mattress, a little rounded pillow to fit the

head part, some warm soft blankets, a piece of

mackintosh, and a dainty cover made of the same

sateen and muslin as the covering of the cot, and

prettily trimmed with lace, or if the weather is

cold a hght eiderdown quilt may take its place.

There should also be a tiny hot-water bottle -

an ordinary ginger-beer bottle with a tight screw

and a woollen bag will serve the purpose.

The little mattress may either be stuSed with

hair, or, if this is too expensive, dried fern leaves,

cocoanut fibre, fine shavings, or chaS all make

good substitutes, and it is much wiser to use one

of the cheaper materials and renew frequently

than to stuff the mattress with hair and go on

using it in an unhealthy state.

The Basket. - This is \ased to hold all the re-

quirements for the baby's toilet, and is generally

lined and trimmed to match the bassinette. A

Untrimmed Basket.

flat vmlined basket can be bought for from 2s. 6d.

upwards, and one on a stand for about 7s. 6d. -

the trimming usually costs 78. or 8s. extra.

Here, again, the work of lining can easily be done

at homo when expense is a consideration. The

iiiside should be fitted with two or tliree pockets

Trimmed Basket.

to hold the smaller articles, and there must be a

pretty cover to lay over the top. Sometimes tho

high baskets are made on casters, when they can

be easily moved about.

The basket should contain the following : -

a tiny hair brush, a fine soft sponge, good pure

Boap in a soap-bos, refined Fuller's earth or fine

talcum dusting powder, a closed puff-box, a pot

of white vaseline, boracic Unt and some old soft

handkorcliiefs, a pin-cushion with good supply of

safety-pins, needles, white cotton, a thimble, a

pair of scissors, narrow tape, a bodkin. Then on

the top might be laid a set of clothes ready for

tho little stranger's arrival - a flannel binder, a

knitted woollen vest, a flannel nightgown, soft

napkins, a fine white shawl, and a square of

flannel.

Other Requirements. - A little bath, one or two

soft bath-towels, and two bathing aprons for

nurse.

THE LAYETTE

Essentials in Clothing. - All clothing must be

warm, porous, and light. Warm, because heat

is as important as food to the young life, and

we must do our utmost to guard our little ones

against chills ; porous, to allow the pores of the

skin to act freely and thus keep it in a healthy

condition ; and light so as not to encumber

movement nor cause any waste of power. The

garments must at the same time be elastic,

fitting the part closely but not too tightly, in

order to leave room for growth and the regular

expansion of the Uttle frame. Wool in some fornl

or other is the substance best adapted to meet

all these requirements ; it is far better than the

muslins and lace so invariably associated with

a baby's outfit. Tlie material should be as

fine and soft as possible. Wincey, delaine, nun's

veihng, and viyella are all suitable for the upper

garments, as they will wash and keep their

colour well, while the finest flannel may bo used

for underneath. Another advantage of the

woollen outfit is that the garments can easily

be washed at homo. It is also more economical

as far as washing is concerned, because the

clothes do not crease nor soil so quickly, and if

tho rule is followed that all clothing be aired in

the fresh air and afterwards by a fire before being

put on again, a petticoat, a dress, and a night-

dress will often last a week.

It is also important to have tho clother simply

made so that they may be readily put on and

taken off and washed without difficulty. The

weight, too, must be evenly distributed. White

is always to be preferred to any colour, especially

for the young infant.

There have been many attempts at reform in

infants' clothing, but old customs dio hard, and

although woollen garments are more generally

introduced into the layette than formerly, there

are still some mothers who insist upon having

the little beings decked out in a mass of starched

lace, frills, and embroidery. However, as a rule,

baby is now dressed in a more common-sense

way ; ornamentation has to a largo extent given

way to comfort and utility, and tlio welfare of the

little body comes first. The old style of low neck

and short sleeves is rarely seen ; tho pretty little

lawn shirt, the first garment to be put on, is also

THE CHILD

47r

a thing of the past, and is replaced by a wool or

silk vest, while the dainty embroidered ca^js are

also condemned as fitting too closely to the head

to be healthy.

Although woollen garments are recommended,

there is no need to have them clumsy and ugly.

The material may still bo fine and the stitches

small, wliile the little frocks give ample scope

for embroidery and dainty needlework. In

fact, there is no objection to cambric and silk

frocks still being worn as long as there is a

sufficiency of woollen clothing underneath.

First Clothing Required. - ^The mistake is often

made in providing too much clothing, al^d it is

forgotten that the baby will outgrow the first

little garments in a few weeks and that it is

really a waste of money to buy an unnecessary

amount. There must, of course, be a large enough

supply to keep the baby in a clean and healthy

condition and to allow for frequent washing.

The following list includes all that is necessary

for the first tliree months, but of course it may be

indefinitely enlarged, according to fancy and the

means of the mother : -

Four vests of fine woven or knitted wool or

of silk and wool.

Three binders.

Four long flannels or barracoats.

Four woollen night-dresses.

Fom* monthly gowns- delaine, nmi's veiHng,

or other woollen material.

Six flannel squares (Pilches).

Twenty -four Turkish towelling napkins.

One or two small Shetland shawls.

Four pairs knittea shoes.

One large Shetland or knitted shawl

One woollen hood.

In addition to the above there might be two

or three pretty embroidered muslin or silk gowns

for special occasions.

^Vhite petticoats are now little used, and are

only required under a light robe. A carrying

cloak and bonnet is often preferred to the large

shawl and woollen hood for out of doors. When

tliis is the case, one or two little woollen jackets

for wearing under the cloak should be supplied.

Prettily embroidered head flannels may take the

place of the small shawls for indoor use, but they

are not so Hght.

Although it is not usual to prepare the short

clothes before the birth of the baby, the following

vs^ll be required after the first tliree months : -

Four larger vests.

Two pair flannel stays.

Fovu" pairs woollen drawers.

Four woollen petticoats T^dth bodices.

Four woollen dresses.

Four night-dresses.

Four pairs woollen socks.

Twenty-four larger napkins.

Six bibs.

Here, again, the Ust may be supplemented by

the addition of some silk or embroidered muslin

dresses. A coat and bonnet miglit also take the

place of the shawl and hood for out of doors.

Although called short, they ought to come below

the feet to begin with, and can be shortened

after another three months by making a few

tucks.

On Making the Layette. - What a world of

pleasure does a mother take in making with her

own hands the tiny garments which must be in

readiness for the arrival of " Baby," and how

many loving thoughts are interwoven with the

minute stitches in which it is her pride to excel.

More especially is this the case when preparing

the layette for her first child, for then there are

no elder children to claim their share of attention.

A mother should not, however, permit the pre-

paration of baby's trousseau to encroach too

much upon her time. She must remember that

it is a mistake to spend hours and hours

stitching and sewing to the injury of her

health, and that she would be much better

spending the time or part of the time at least

in taking healthy exercise in the open air. On

the other hand, sewing for baby in moderation

will prove an interesting and pleasant pastime,

and the Uttle flannel garments especially can

very easily be undertaken by the expectant

mother. A treadle machine must on no account

* No. 32940. Infant's Long-Clothing Set.

be used, although there is not the same objection

to an easily worked hand-macliine being employed

for the longer seams.

Of course, if there £ire other willing hands to

• Patterns of this set of garments may be obtained from

Weldons, Ltd., Fashion Publisliers, 30 & 31 Southampton

Street, Strand, London, W.C, price 6d., post free 7d. Pattern,-

numbers should be quoted when ordering.

472

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

help, there is no reason why the whole o£ the

layette sliould not be made at home, and cer-

tainly by so doing many a slulling will be saved

and better matorial procured.

Good patterns should always be used when

cutting out baby garments. Tliose who under-

take this work cannot do better than write to

Weldon's for their Infant's Long-Clotliing set

of patterns, consisting of seven different pieces

as illustrated, price 6d., post free Id., and also for

the Short -Clothing Set consisting of six different

• No. 37950. Infant's Short-Clothing Set.

pieces at the same price. Full directions for

making each garment are given with the

patterns, also particulars as to the amount of

material required. They have been proved

most satisfactory by those competent to judge.

The tiny garments should be made of the

finest material that can be afforded, and the

utmost nicety is required in their manufacture.

They must bo sewn together with the most

delicate needlework, the seams must be narrow,

and no part of the garments must bo hard or

made in such a way as to cau-so discomfort.

Tlicre must be no lumpy buttons or hooks to

press on the tender flesh, but fine soft tape

should bo used for the principal fastenings.

Care must bo taken in the making of arm-holes

and sleeves so as to avoid any pulling or strain-

ing, and there must bo no tightness anywhere.

Everything must be made to look as pretty as

possible for the little stranger.

rhe Binder. - This is the firpt article of clothing

put on the baby. It should be made of a strip

of flannel torn across the material. It should be

six inches wide, so that half a yard of flannel will

• Patterns of this set of garments may be obtained from

Weldons, Ltd., Fashion Publishers, 30 Street, Strand, London, W.C, price6d.,po8tfree7d. Pattern

numbers should be quoted when ordering.

make three binders. They must not be hemmed

or sewn in any way. The binder is used to give

warmth to the abdomen, and it also forms a

fomidation on wliich to pin the diaper. It

should be rolled round the little body quite

easily and fastened with a safety-pin with a

shielded point, or by means of a few stitches.

The Vest. - Tliis may either be hand-knitted or

woven and should be made of the very finest wool,

or of silk and wool. It should have high neck

and long sleeves if for winter wear, and be long

enough to cover the abdomen. It is always

better to have the fastening at the side, and

French tape or baby ribbon is always better than

buttons.

Napkins and Pilches. - Napkins are best made

of Turkish towelling. They should be half a

yard wide and tliree -quarters of a yard in length,

and made single, as they are more easily washed.

The two opposite corners should be folded to-

gether so as to form a triangle. The folded side

of this triangle is put round the infant's waist

and fastened with a safety-pin to the binder.

Then the point is brought up between the legs

and fastened in front. The first pilch is made of

• No. 37947. Head Flannel and Pilch.

flannel and is worn over the napkin for safety's

sake. It might either be in the form of a square

and put on in the same way as the napkin,

or it might be shaped as in illustration. A

mackintosh pilch is sometimes used to save

frequent changing, but this is most reprehensible,

and generally shows laziness and lack of attention

on the part of the nurse. The mackintosh acts

as a sort of compress and is most unhealthy. It

might be used for an hour or two on any special

THE CHILD

473

occasion when an accident is to be dreaded,

but under no other circumstance.

The Barracoat or Flannel Petticoat. - This is the

next article of clothing. It should be made with

the body and skirt in one and should fasten on

the shouldei's. It is a mistake to make it too

long, as it only adds weight - a few inches below

the feet will be quite sufficient. Sometimes a

second petticoat is worn made of fine lawn or

nainsook, but this is not necessary with a

woollen frock.

The Frock. - The material of which tliis is made

naust vary according to circumstances, and, as

said before, some woollen material is best. Nun's

veiUng is suitable for summer wear, while for

winter wincey or viyella will be better. For

daintier wear or special occasions white silk

trimmed with lace or a dainty embroidered

muslin might be used.

Woollen Bootees and Drawers. - Little wooUen

bootees should be worn night and day. They

can either be knitted or crocheted, and should

be warm and roomy. When the clothes are

shortened, the bootees should be long enough to

come weU up the legs for protection. Woollen

drawers are also useful for slipping on when the

baby is taken out of doors, and sometimes they

are made all in one with the bootees.

Bibs. - These should be made of a material

which does not readily absorb moisture. Soft

Turkish towelling with a scalloped edge are best

for ordinary wear, while one made of embroidered

silk can bo worn for best.

For Outdoor Wear. - For the first three

months there is nothmg more comfortable than

a shawl and a Uttle knitted bonnet, although

many mothers prefer the cloak made of fine

cashmere or silk trimmed with swansdown or

silk embroidery. Care must be taken when the

cloak is used that the weight of it does not hang

from the baby's shoulder. A Uttle knitted

jacket should always be worn underneath the

cloak.

Gloves. - Wlien the child is older the tiny

hands should be protected with gloves mthout

fingers. These should be tied in at the wrist and

fastened in place with a safety-pin.

(For Children's Clothes, see p. 495.)

For those who wish to buy the little garments

ready made, most of the large drapery establish-

ments will supply lists giving the prices of the

various articles, and special ladies' outfitters

are always ready to give all the necessary infor-

mation as to quality and prices.

THE MONTHLY NURSE

It will first bo necessary to decide whether to

engage a trained nurse or an untrained one, a

choice which will doubtless be influenced by such

considerations as income and mode of living ; for,

naturally, the trained midwife expects a higher

fee than her self-trained colleague. Moreover,

she will not undertake any ordinary household

duties, knowing full well that mother and babe

will make such demands on her time as to leave

no leisure for her to attend to any matters

outside the sick-room.

It is not unusual for a doctor to give particu-

lars of several n\irses to patients whose accouche -

monts he undertakes. Before closing with any

one of them, it is always well to obtain references

from previous patients similarly circumstanced

to yourself, that you may ascertain whether,

besides being sldlled at her work, the nurse of

your choice is also a pleasant woman to live

with. You do not want any one whose presence

is hkely to prove irritating, nor who wiU be

lacking in both tact and sympathy.

The nurse is usually paid by the week or month,

and will expect, in addition to her fee, laundry

expenses, as well as her fare, should she come a

long distance. If she is engaged to attend the

patient some weeks before the expected event,

it is usual to pay half-fee for the period of

waiting.

A good deal of possible friction will be saved

if at the time of engagement there is a clear

understanding as to exactly what duties the nurse

may be expected to perform. The bedroom is

in her sole charge and she will see to the dusting

of it, but she will expect the relaying and hght-

ing of the fire to be done by the maid. Attend-

ance in the way of bringing up hot water, meals,

&c., will also have to be given by the latter, as

the trained nurse cannot be asked to do house-

work of any kind. Details such as the washing

of napkins, &c., are also points which will have

to be settled with the nurse \ipon engagement.

If possible, the nvu"se should take her mc als in

a room by herself ; she should not be expected

to join the servants in the kitchen. The meals

should be served preferably in a dressing-room

adjoining that of the patient, as in these cu-cum-

stances, especially dm-ing the first daj's after

the confinement, she will be at hand in caSQ

of need.

Baby's Arrival. - Once these arrangements

are complete, everything will be in readiness for

baby's arrival. The nurse will have probably

taken up residence in the house a few days

beforehand, and will thus be able to notify those

in attendance as to when the doctor should be

summoned. The management of the confine-

ment will now be in the hands of the doctor

and nurse who have undertaken the case, and

their instructions should be carried out in evei'y

way.

If baby arrives unexpectedly when neither

doctor nor nurse aie present, the person in

attendance should see that he is placed in a

position to breathe properly and that he is not

being suffocated with clothing. Afterwards well

wash his eyes with plain warm water and clean

pieces of old linen, and then cover him with a

soft warm blanket, and ho will take no hurt for

474

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

some time, until experienced assistGince can be

procured.

THE NURSERY

Whenever possible, there should bo a room set

apart for the children of the house, a room in

■which they can play and spend happily the hours

they are not sleeping or out of doors. Let the

nursery bo one of the largest and healthiest

rooms in the house, not a room in the attics

■which is liable to be too hot in summer and too

cold in winter, nor yet one in the basement

•which will bo dark and possibly damp as well.

The ideal nursery has a south or south-west

aspect ; it is lofty and spacious, ■with a fireplace,

a good window that opens top and bottom, and a

cheerful outlook. Unfortunately, it is not always

possible to find a room fulfilling all these require-

ments, but we can always do our best, remember-

ing that fine healthy children cannot bo reared in

dark and cheerless rooms, so let us give them all

the sunsliine and good air we can if we -wish

them to develop physically and mentally, for

they are like the flowers which droop and grow

pale if they are left in the dark.

The walls should bo washable throughout -

distemper, enamel paint, or varnished paper are

all suitable coverings. A light harmoruous

colour is best, gi'ving a feeling of restfulness. If

paper is used, it must be of a very simple pattern ;

in fact, there is nothing so charming as the plain

coloured wall. Monotony can be avoided by the

use of a simple coloured frieze with a few figures

of animals, birds, or flowers, &c., and designed

by some good firm. All intricate patterns and

multiplicity of design must be avoided ; papers

covered with pictures that tell stories only tire

and confuse the child's mind. There might also

be a few good pictures on the walls of objects

that will interest children, but never permit

anything in the way of rubbish - ^rather leave

the walls bare. Pictures must not be hung too

liigh.

The best floor covering is cork carpet, as it is

warm and washable and very durable. Indian

matting and Unolcum are also good, but the

latter is cold, and ruga would be required. Un-

covered floors are not good, unless of the real

parquet flooring, as splinters are apt to come off

the wood and got into the little one's hands and

feet - and carpets are not hygienic.

As for furniture, the less there is the better,

and what there is should be of the simplest

description. It must be of a kind that is easily

washed and cleaned, with as few sharp angles

as possible, and arranged bo as to leave open

floor space for the children to have a full clear

run in which to exercise their limbs. A good

steady table for meals, a few chairs, a low chair

for nurse, a roomy cupboard, a toy-cupboard,

a low kindergarten table with a little chair for

each child are the principal articles required.

A nui-sory guard should bo firmly fixed to tho

fireplace, and one that covers the grate right over

is the best. It is a convenience, too, to have a

Nursery Fire-Guard.

rail on the outside on which little garments can

be put to warm.

A good cupboard for the nurse's vise ia very

necessary, or it might be a cupboard and chest

of drawers combined. If meals are taken in the

nursery this •will hold the children's special

china, table linen and so forth, sewing materials

and many other odds and ends.

The toy-cupboard, too, is very essential if tho

children are to be taught to be tidy, and it is well

to allow a special shelf or division for each child.

It must also be low enough to bo within their

reach. A low kindergarten table with the little

miniature chairs will also be foimd useful when

the children are at an age to draw, paint, work

with clay, or amuse themselves with other quiet

occupations.

Another useful addition to the nursery is a play-

pen in which a child can be put to crawl about

Play-Pea

without any danger of its hurting itself. A

washable crawling rug will also bo useful, and a

cosy hearth-rug will give an appearance of com-

fort to the room.

When curtains are used they must bo made

of some washable material. Casement curtains

are really the best, as they do away with the

necessity of having blinds.

A high window should have one or two bars

fixed across it for safety.

A reliable clock and a thermometer must not

bo forgotten, and if bathing is done in the

nursery there shoiild be a good draught-screen.

Cleanliness and Ventilation. - It is very im-

portant that the nursery bo kept thoroughly

clean ; there must be cleanliness in every detail.

THE CHILD

475

The room miist be swept and dusted every day,

and the floor washed once a week. Care must

be taken on the day that the washing is done

that the children do not return to it until the

floor is dry. Choose a time when the children

are out of doors, or when they can spend several

hours in another room. After the washing is

done, both door and window must be left w^de

open so that a ctu'rent of air may dry the room,

and a good fire must be kept biu-ning unless the

weather is warm and bright.

The best time for cleaning the fireplace in the

nursery is in the evening, when the children are

in bed and nurse has finished with the room.

The fire can then be raked out, the grate cleaned,

and all made ready for putting a match to the

fire in the morning. The floor of the room

might also be swept in the evening, leaving only

the dusting to be done next day.

Good V cntilation is also very important in the

nursery, and fresh air must be admitted freely.

During the day all windows should be kept open

in warm weather, and in cold weather either one

window must be left open a little way, or a simple

Hinck's-Bird ventilator (see p. 8) inserted.

W^ien the children are out the windows might be

thrown wide open. Opportunity might also be

taken while the children are out of drying any

wet towels, &c., but tliis ought on no account to

be allowed when the nursery is occupied, as it

would make the air of the room too moist and

might be hurtful to young children.

The Night Nursery. - The apartment in which

the children sleep, whether it be the room

occupied by the nurbd as well or a special room

set apart for the children by themselves, must be

chosen and furnished as carefully as the day

nursery. The same rules as regards ventilation

and general arrangement will apply here.

The furniture should be as scanty as possible

and of a kind that wall wash. There must bo a

cot or little bed for each child and also a bed for

Cot with Drop-Side.

the nurse. There is nothing nicer than the little

wliite enamelled bods with a spring or wire

foundation, as they can be so easily washed and

kept clean. A cot is always best when it is made

with a lirop-side ; the bed is more easily made,

and it is also a simpler mat^^er to get at the child.

Very young children should have their cots

covered with a net to prevent them getting over

the sides and hurting themselves.

The most suitable bedding is a good hair

mattress and a low soft pillow. It is most

important that the mattress should be fresh and

clean ; it should be taken to pieces periodically

and thoroughly aired and renewed if necessary.

The covering must be warm, but as light as

possible - an under -blanket, one or two upper

blankets, and an eiderdown or light cover will be

necessary. Good cotton sheets will also be

required for the older children, but none for the

baby's bed. A mackintosh sheet should also be

supplied for the bed of a very young child.

The floor of the night nursery should be

covered with linoleum or cork carpet or left bare,

and two or three rugs should be supplied for

putting at the side of the beds.

The nurse will also require a dressing-table for

her own use and a chest of drawers or other

receptacle for keeping her clothes.

There should also be one or two chairs, one

low chair and a screen. If the bath-room is

close at hand a wash-stand will not be required.

Casement curtains of a pretty green or other

soft shade will be the best for keeping out the

light, and will do away with the necessity for

bUnds.

Apart from the actual furniture required, the

children's sleeping-room should be left as empty

as possible. There should be no boxes stored

under beds nor on the top of wardrobes, no

garments left hanging on pegs, nor a quantity of

books, pictures, and ornaments, which only help

to collect dust.

The window should be left open night and day,

and when heating is necessary it should be by

means of an open fire and not a stove. Gas

should not be left burning in the bedroom at

night, but a night-light may be used if a light is

needed.

THE NURSE

Choice and Qualifications. - Too great care

cannot be taken in the choice of a nurse for

the little ones. There is hardly any position

so full of trust and responsibility, and when a

mother realises that the health and character

of her children in after life will to a large extent

be determined by the treatment they receive

in the first years of their life, she will make every

effort and even sacrifice rather than lot tliem be

under the control of an ignorant or unprincipled

woman.

A good nurse ought to bo fond of children,

good tempered, and thoroughly trustworthy.

She must be healthy and active, bright and

happy-looking, and capable of gentle firmness.

It is important also that she speaks well and

has no defect or peculiarity of any kind, as

children are very quick to imitate both the bad

and the good.

Personal cleanliness is another important

476

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

qualification, and as regards dress this must

always bo neat and tidy and very simple in style.

Some people insist upon their nurses wearing

wlute, but this Ls not always adx-isable. For

one thing, the continual glare of everything

wliite, especieilly out of doors, is not considered

good for bab}''8 eyes, and then the washing is a

consideration, as white, if worn at all, must be

clean. A nice soft grey or navy blue is pre-

ferable, or grey might be worn in summer and

blue in winter. Tlio morning-dress should be

of linen or other washing material, and for the

afternoon alpaca, beige, or serge would be suitable.

An apron must always be worn indoors. The

out-of-door costume must be quiet and neat -

there is no occasion for her to wear the uniform

of a hospital nurse - in fact, this should rather be

avoided - a jacket or coat to match the dress in

colour and a hat or bonnet with a ribbon trim-

ming are perhaps the most suitable. White

gloves should always be worn when taking out

a baby.

A nurse should be a good needlewoman. She

may not be called upon to make new garments

for the children, but she is generally expected

to keep their clothing in order and do little

renovations.

A knowledge of laundry work and simple

nursery cookery are also useful acquirements,

and if she has experience in treating the simple

ailments of children, or knows what to do in a

case of emergency, she will be all the more valu-

able to her employer.

Unfortunately, it is not always easy to find

all the above requirements in one woman. It

very often happens that the one who is com-

petent is not good-tempered and resents any

interference, or that the good-tempered one

lacks knowledge. This makes it all the more

important that the mother should always take

the chief supervision ; in fact, it is one of her

first duties, and she ought under all circum-

stances to reign supreme in her own nursery,

and no matter how clever and experienced the

niu-so may be it is never right to give her the full

control of the children.

Duties. - Ab regards the duties of the nurse and

the order in which they are to be performed, it is

almost impossible to set down any rules which

will suit all cases. There must be a plan and a

time-table, but it is for every mother either to

make her own, or to do so in consultation with

her nurse, and then to see that it is adhered to.

The duties will naturally vary with the size of

the family and the number of servants kept,

and the mode of living. VVhen there are

several children and two nurses are kept, the

heeid nurse will have the entire charge of the

infant. She will also be responsible for the care

of the other children, but the under-nurse or

nursemaid will assist with their dressing, &c.

She will be responsible for the order and manage-

ment of the nursery, the arrangement of meals,

&c. The under-nurse will do all the rough work,

including cleaning, wasliing of dishes, carrying

coals, and work under the direction of the head

nurse. When the nurso is single-handed and

there are several children, she will either require

help from the housemaid in the cleaning of her

nurseries, or the mother must be prepared to

take the cliildren for a certain time each day in

order to give tho nurse some freedom to do a

little washing or cleaning. Bj' this means she

ought to be able to get tlirough much useful

work.

FEEDING

There is unfortunately a growing disinclination

among mothers to nourish their infants as natiu-e

intended. Selfishness is as a rule at the root of

this very unmotherly feeling. Tho mother who

nurses her infant will require to lend a more or

less quiet life for nine months, forgoing many

social engagements, and rather than deny her-

self in this respect a mother will sacrifice the

welfare of her little one by depriving it of its

natural food. Vanity is also often the reason

for objection to nursing. The plea is made that

it " spoils " the figure, whereas, as a matter of

fact, to nurse a baby for the first few weeks of

its life is to materially assist nature in her re-

storing process, and shapeliness in consequence

is regained sooner than in other circumstances.

Nursing is good for the mother as well as for the

child.

There are many instances, of course, when it is

impossible for the mother to niurse her child,

but if it is possible she should look upon it as

her first duty towards the little one to do so.

Tliat the mother's milk is lacking in quantity

or quality is not now accounted any argument

in favour of neglecting altogether the duty of

breast-feeding. In these circumstances a baby

may be brought up partly on its mother's milk

and partly on the bottle. The mother who

finds it exhausting to nurso altogether ci^i, for

instance, feed it herself in the day and give it

tho bottle at night. In this way tho ht'lo one

is not altogether deprived of its natural food.

Time was when " the mixing of milks " was

regarded as most unwise, but that is now past,

and it is universally recognised that baby may

be given the bottle as well as partially breast-fed

with very satisfactory results.

Should there be evidences of consumption or

other disease likely to be hereditary, consult tho

doctor as to the advisabiUty or otherwiflo of

artificially feeding baby.

The bresists must bo carefully tended during

pregnancy, if the mother intends to feed her

baby. See that the corsets do not flatten the

nipples, which should be hardened by bathing

them night and morning for the last couple of

months, and afterwards applying a mixture

cither of lavender water or pure eau de

Cologne.

THE CHILD

477

The infant should be put to the breast directly

after it has been washed, as the first milk will

act as a mild purgative for the Uttle one. During

the first two days of its existence an infant does

not require to be fed more than once every four

hoiirs. Afterwards it must be fed every two

hours with the utmost regularity in the day and

about three or four times in the night for the

first two or three months - after that every

two and a half hours, and then every three hours

until it is weaned.

Great care must be taken to keep to regular

hours for baby's meals. If the child is allowed

to feed at all times and at all hours directly it

utters so much as a cry, not only will it be bad

for the infant, but the mother must needs lead

the hfe of a veritable slave to her baby, never

being able to count on so much as half-an-hoiu^

of freedom, and, what is more, she will be forced

to neglect in a certain meastu-e both her husband

and her home.

A little patience exercised at first in adhering

firmly to a rule will do away with the necessity

for such a state of affairs. Even young babies

will realise the quaUty of firmness in their

mother when once they come into contact with

it. At night-time in particular will a mother

have trouble with the infant whom she has un-

duly pampered in this respect, and the longer

this pampering goes on the more difficult will if

become to cure the bad habits so formed. Very

often consideration for her husband who needs

his rest so much will induce a mother to nurse a

baby whenever he cries at m'ght in order to keep

it quiet. It may be taken that the infant of a

few months old is a reasoning being in so far

that, as soon as he knows crying will ensure the

gratification of his wishes, the more he will resort

to this expedient. In these circumstances it is

better to sleep with the child in another room for

a few nights, and train it in the way it should go

in this respect. With a little patience proper

habits may be formed, although the mother who

has been firm in the training of her httle one

since infancy is not^ likely to be troubled in this

way.

Of course, there are exceptions - delicate

children will require feeding more frequently

than healthy ones, and the doctor's advice will

have to be taken in tliis respect, but here again

regularity should be aimod at.

Weaning should take place when the infant is

nine months old, and in any circumstances the

mother's nursing should not continue beyond

ten raoiiths. Prolonged nvirsing is both bad for

tho mother and bad for the child.

It is better to accomplish the weaning gradu-

ally, beginning by gi\'ing the new food at one or

two meals only at first, gradually substituting it

for the natural nourishment at other meals until

at tho end of a month the mother can leave off

nursing altogether. This gradual weaning is

more than ever impori-ant when it takes place

in the hot summer weather. Whilst nursing,

a mother should take plain nourishing food,

avoiding everything that is rich or highly

seasoned.

Bringing up by Hand. - Wlien it is quite impos-

sible for a mother to nurse her baby, it will be

necessary that the httle one be brought up by

hand. There is the alternative, of course, of

engaging a " wet nurse," but this is not always

advisable, for many reasons. The milk used

should be the special " nursery milk," which is

always sent from the dairies in sealed bottles. It

must be diluted with barley water and sweetened

with a little sugar, and freed from germs by

boiling. This should be done by placing a jug

containing the milk into a saucepan of water

and putting this on to boil. The milk will be

ready when the water has boiled for fifteen

minutes.

The boat-shaped feeding-bottle is the best

kind to use, and infinitely preferable to the

bottle with the long rubber tube. Tlie latter

is unhygienic, because it is so difficult to keep

the tube clean, and any milk left in will turn

Boat-shaped Feeding-Bottle.

sour, diarrhoea being often caused in this way.

It is of the first imjiortanco that feeding-bottles

should be kept thoroughly clean. When baby

has finished his meal, any milk that he has left

should at once bo tlirown away, and the bottle

should be rinsed out, first in cold water and

then in hot water in which a tiny piece of

soda has been placed. It should then be

cleaned out with a special bottle-brush, well

rinsed, and left in a basin of cold water until

required. Two or three bottles should always

be in use, so that there is always one ready

when required.

Exceptional care is required in bringing the

baby up by hand, tho least thing wrong in

the food causing diarrhoea, which often proves

fatal to infants. It is one of the duties of

the monthly nurse before leaving to carefully

instruct the mother and also the nurse in

regard to the feeding and general care of the

infant.

The following " Feeding Cliarts " and Recipes

have been prepared by Mrs. Berntird Mole,

Principal of the Hampstead Nursery College,

and will give an idea (1) of the proportions of

milk and barley water to be given to babies

up to the age of ten months ; (2) the gradual

adding of other foods at nine months to eighteen

months with some useful recipes; and (3) a

suitable diet for babies of eighteen months old

and upwards.

478

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

INFANTS' FEEDING TABLE

Maximum

Age

Milk

Barley water or

boiled water

Total quantity

Time, every

1 month . .

1 oz. 2 drs.

1 oz. 6 drs.

3 oz.

2 hours

2 months . .

2 oz. 4 drs.

5 oz.

2i hours

3 months . .

3} oz.

2 0Z.

5i oz.

^ hours

4 months . .

' 4 oz.

2 oz.

6 oz.

2 J hours

6 months . .

1 5 oz.

2 oz.

7 oz.

3 hours

6 months . .

5 oz.

1 oz. 4 drs.

7 oz.

3 hours

7 months . .

6 oz.

loz.

71 oz.

3 hours

8 months . .

7 oz.

4 drs.

8 oz.

3 hours

9 months. .

8 oz.

S or 9 oz.

Si hours

10 months . .

8 oz.

8 or 9 oz.

3} hours

After 9 months, broth, bread and milk, rusks, Kobinson's patent barley

may be given.

>'OTE. - 1 tea-spoonful equals 1 drachm ; 2 table-spoonfuls equal 1 ounce.

DIET CHART

(9 to 18

At 9 months leave off mid-day bottle and give

broth with bread-crumbs in it, or fine sago,

custard, or lightly -boiled egg (yolk only)

poured over sieved crumbs.

At 10 )tionths leave off breakfast bottle, and give

bread and milk (sieved cnimbs).

At 11 months leave off tea bottle, and give

" Nursery Rusks " soaked in boiling water,

and warm milk poured over.

months)

At 12 months leave off supper bottle and give

Robinson's Patent Barley.

Keep on with 10 p.m. hottle till 12 months,

then give warm drink of milk to take its

place.

At 13 and 18 months give good dinners of

broth and crumbs followed by some

nourishing milk pudding and a drink of

cold water.

DIET CHART

(After

18 months

7.30 A.M.

12.30 P.M.

6 P.M.

Monday . .

Tuesday . .

Wednesday .

Thursday . .

Friday . . .

Saturday . .

Sunday . .

Bread and dripping

Bread and jam

6 oz. warm milk

Fried bread

Bread and marmalade

6 oz. warm milk

Bread and milk

Bread and jam

Fried bread

Bread and marmalade

6 oz. warm milk

Bread and milk

Bread and jam

Porridge

Bread and marmalade

EgKs

Bread and butter

6 oz. warm milk

Minced meat and

gravy, potatoes

Suet pudding

Vegetables and gravy

Milk pudding and

baked apple, ic.

Soup and milkpudding

Fruit

Vegetables and gravy

Fairy pudding

Fish

Milk puddingand fruit

Stew gravj-

Boiled batter

CiT&vy and vegetables

Fruit and milk j>ud-

ding

Robinson's patent

barley

Bread and milk

Robinson's barley

Bread and milk

Robinson's barley

Bread and milk

Robinson's barley

Note.- Tea : bread and butter, rake, or jam, and warm milk.

Lunch : warm milk and biscuit.

SOME NURSERY RECIPES

Receipt (or Fine Sago

2 tea-spoonfuls fine sago. I 1 teacup cold water.

Method. - Simmer all the morning (not less

than twenty minutes), tidd a little brown sugar

and milk.

Mntton, Veal, and Beef Broth

1 lb. of meat. | 1 pint of water.

Method. - Shred meat, add salt, simmer in

double saucepan three to four hours. Another

method for the nursery. Shred meat, add pinch

of salt and water. Stand all the morning.

Warm up to 130№ and serve.

THE CHILD

479

Custard

6 oz. milk. I 1 tea-spoonful sugar.

1 egg. I

Method. - Beat egg, pour on hot milk in which

sugar has been added. Stir till wooden spoon is

coated.

Note. - Must not boil or will curdle.

Bread and Milk

1 slice of bread. I 6 oz. milk.

Method. - Rub the bread through a sieve,

place in cup and pour on boihng milk in which

a little brown sugar has been added.

Note. - After twelve months old, cut bread

with crust into cubes.

Boiled Egg

Method. - Carefully drop egg into boiling water,

let it stand in hot water for eight minutes, and

the yolk and white will be jelly-like consistency.

Pour on to crumbs and serve.

Note. - ^Must not boil or white will harden.

Another method. Boil three minutes and

use yolk only.

Albumen Water

1 white of egg. I i pint of water.

Method. - Stir in slightly-beaten white of egg

into half a pint warm water, add little sugar.

Whey

1 pint milk. 1 1 tea-spoon rennet.

Method.- Heat milk to 100№ F. Stb in the

rennet and allow it to cool (not less than seven

minutes). Stir up w'th fork and strain through

muslin. Heat up again to 70№ F. to get rid of

rennet. Strain before using.

Barley Water

2 table-sp. coarse pearl I 1 pint of water,

barley. I

Method. - ^Wash barley in strainer by pouring

hot water through. Put barley in jug and cover

with a pint of boiling water. Stand all day and

strain oS quantity for use.

Nursery Rusk

Cover rusk with boiling water and let it soak.

Add warm milk and a little brown sugar when

ready for uso.

Diet for Older Children After the child is

over three years old, the diet may be gradually

enlarged until it is able to take simple dishes of

all hinds. The food must always be simple and

well cooked, and never highly seasoned.

The most substantial meal should be in the

middle of the day, when one of the following

dishes might be served : fish either steamed or

stewed or made up in some simple way with

butter sauce, game (if not high), and poultry,

roast, boiled or broiled meat. Salted meats

and spiced salt fish, pork and liver should be

avoided, also rich stews and highly -seasoned

sauces of any kind. There should also be a

liberal supply of vegetables in season.

In winter especially the dinner should com-

mence with a little soup ; in fact, with young

children a good broth or milk soup might quite

well take the place of the meat course once or

twice a week if it is followed by a good nourishing

pudding.

As the pudding is generally the favourite dish

with the little ones, care must be taken to have

it well cooked and hght, and some cooks are

very apt to be careless in this respect. A suet

pudding in some form or other is one of the most

nourishing dishes that can be given - the plain

suet dumpling served with golden syrup or

brown sugar, the dumpling with a few currants

or raisins in it, the suet pudding with fruit

inside, or the jam roly-poly are all excellent

if well cooked. Even the simple milk pudding

requires care in the preparation, because unless

the starchy substance of which it is made is

thoroughly cooked, it will not be wholesome.

Variety must be studied as much as possible ;

if the same dishes are served day after day the

children become tired of them and do not take

sufficient for their proper nourishment.

Fruit in some form should be given every day,

and as some children can take more of this than

others, it is the duty of the mother to watch

what agrees with each child. As a rule fruits

are more easily taken stewed than raw. Stewed

prunes, apples, or figs, baked apples and baked

bananas can vary the winter diet, while in summer

there will be the various fresh fruits in season.

The older children's breakfast should consist

of porridge or some other cereal food with good

milk, followed by eggs or a simple fish dish, or

toast and bacon fat, with cocoa, hot milk, or

milk and coffee to drink. If breakfast is served

very early a glass of milk with a biscuit, oatcake,

or piece of gingerbread might be given in the

middle of the forenoon.

Then for tea - bread and butter \rith syrup or

jam, some plain cake or biscuits, and either

cocoa or warm milk to drink.

The supper taken in the evening must be very

light in character - warm milk with bread and

butter, a well-cooked milk pudding, a dish of

rice, or some milk soup axe all suitable.

THE CHILD'S TOILET

Bath. - Perfect cleanliness is another essential

in the healthy life of the child, as without this

the skin will be unable to discharge its functions.

One cannot use too much water, and the some-

what common fear that more than one bath a

day is weakening is quite wrong ; the error made

is more likely to be oa. the side of too Uttle

washing rather than that of too much.

All children should bo bathed at least once

480

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

daily, and tho habit must be begun from infancy.

Each cliild must bo provided with its own

sponge and flannel or other washing requisites.

For an infant tho tomperaturo of tho water

should bo about 100№ F. for both tho morning and

evening bath, and this may be continued for

the first six months. As it gets a Uttle older

the temperature of tho morning bath may bo

reduced to 80№ or 85№, and after three years old

to 65№ or 70№. With older children tho morning

bath sliould bo given very qmckly with plenty

of friction by rubbing, and they •will also require

a hotter bath in the evening at least twice a

week if it cannot be managed oftener. Or they

may have a warm bath in the evening, and a

quick sponge over with cold or tepid water in

the morning.

A little cliild must always be bathed in a

warm room, and if, when older, he is taken

to a bath-room, care must be taken to guard

against chills.

A bath must never be given directly after a

meal. An hour at least must elapse between the

taking of food and the bath. This is why it is

generally found more convenient to give little

cliildren their supper after their bath, either

sitting at the nursery fire or in bed.

The same would apply to bathing in the sea.

Mothers should see that their children never run

off to bathe directly after a meal. Boys especi-

ally must bo warned, as they are inclined to

jump into tho water at any odd time.

Neither must children be forced to go into

cold water against their will, especially into tho

sea. A bath or bathe under these circumstances

can do no good and often much harm, and there

is generally a gentler way of getting them

ewjcustomed to tho water.

Some children cannot bear cold water, especi-

ally if their circulation is poor or they are

delicate in any way. A mother must use her

own judgment and discretion in this matter, and

both baths and bathing should always be under

her supor\asion or instruction, and be given by

some reliable person.

To Bath an Infant. - The best time for the

morning bath is about 9 or 9.30, and about

one and a half hours after it has had a meal.

By this time the nursery will be thoroughly

warm and there will not bo much danger

of chill. First put in readiness ovorytliing that

is required. Tliero should bo a nice warm

T^irkish bath-towel without fringes and a fine

faCe towel ; tho little garments should be hung

np to warm in front of tho fire, and baby's

basket with all the toilet appliances should bo

at hand. Put a folding-screen round the chair

and fireplewxs so as to shut out all draughts

from door and window, and see that both door

and window are closed for the time being. The

little bath might be put on a stand so as to avoid

unnecessary stooping.

Put in sufficient water to cover the baby's

chest. Care should be taken to put in the

cold before the boiUng water, otherwise if tho

bath is of tin, the foot of it N^all retain tho heat

and baby's skin might bo injured. A largo

apron should be worn when giving tho bath ;

one made of Turkish towolling is tho best.

Castile or other pure soap must bo used, and

nothing of a cheap fancy nature. A soft sponge

or a very soft piece of flannel should bo used for

wasliing. Needless to say, the sponges must be

kept in a very clean and fresh condition.

Wlien the infant is undressed, sponge and soap

tho head first very gently, and being careful

that the soap does not trickle into tho eyes.

Careful attention must be paid to the eyelids,

ears, and nostrils.

Then wash the rest of the body, after which

baby may be lowered gently into the bath.

The left hand and fore-arm must support tho

back and head of the baby while in the bath,

while tho right hand does the sponging ; or ono

of the patent hammock baths might be used -

they have a piece of stout webbing stretched

across the bath from side to side on which the

baby rests, wlxilo both hands of the nurse are

left free. Two or three minutes will bo quite

long enough for the baby to bo in the water;

it should then be lifted into a warm soft towel

fo"r drying.

P"ub gently all over with the towel, using the

fine towel for the face and neck, and then rub

with the hand, as this helps cu-culation. A Uttlo

powder should also bo used to such parts as tho

creases of the thiglis, the armpits, under the

knees and tho throat.

Tho dressing must be performed as expedi-

tiously as possible, and by the time this is finished

the baby will be ready for its meal and a nap.

Clean Habits. - A word might bo said about

the training of the infant in the habit of personal

cleanliness. From infancy the nurse or mother

should make a practice of holding the child over

a vessel every two hours and especially after

sleep. If this is done with regularity the infant

very soon gives warning of its wants, and at

tliree months the napkin ouglit to bo wetted very

rarely during tho day, and at a year old might

bo dispensed with except for night-wear. Of

course there will bo exceptions, and some chil-

dren are more difficult to train than others.

A napkin should bo changed at once when it has

been soiled ; if left on for hours it hinders tho

formation of cleanly habits. Tlie shaped pilch

should be continued for some time after the

napkins have been given up.

Care of the Hair. - During infancy the hair

should bo soaped and washed every day, dried

with a soft towel and brushed with a very soft

brush. When the hair has grown, once or twice

a week will bo sufficient for washing, and care

must be taken that it is thoroughly dry before the

child is put to bed.

Oils and hair- washes are quite unnecessary for

THE CHILD

481

children's hair ; in fact, it will grow better with-

out them, and good and regular brushing with

clean brushes should be relied upon for keeping

it pretty and soft. It is a mistake to let a Uttle

child's hair grow too long, as it just heats the

head unnecessarily. Neither should there be any

tight plaiting or putting up in curls at night

- there is no harm in plaiting it loosely, but the

head must be left perfectly at rest during the

hours of sleep. It is important that each child

should be provided with liis own brush and

comb.

Care of the Mouth and Teeth. - This is very

important, and even the mouth of the tiny

infant must receive attention and be washed

twice a day at least. This may either be done

before or directly after the bath. Twist a piece

of fine lint or gauze round the finger, dip it into

a weak solution of boracic acid and water, and

carefully "nd gently rub the mouth and gums

with this. As soon as the first tooth appears

the use of the tooth brush must be commenced

- a very soft one at first - and this must be

dipped into the boracic acid solution and used

very gently. A good pinch of carbonate of soda

in the water is also a good thing, and it preserves

the teeth against the injurious effects of milk.

Tooth powders and pastes are not necessary for

the first teeth, but a little precipitated chalk or

other simple tooth powder may be used by older

children.

The chronic ill-health and low vitality of some

children can often be traced to their teeth, and

they are never too young to be impressed with

the importance of keeping them clean, not only

for the sake of appearance, but also for the sake

of health. The most important times for clean-

ing are morning and evening, more especially the

latter ; to preserve the teeth and gums it is

particularly essential that the mouth should be

clean before going to bed at night.

It is wise to commence periodical visits to a

good dentist at a very early stage, just to make

sure that all is in order and that the children's

teeth are growing in a proper manner. By pay-

ing attention to the first set of teeth, the second

set have a bettor chance of being somid and

good.

Nails. - The nails of children must not be

neglected. If kept clean and neatly trimmed,

they are likely to remain a pretty shape in after

life. The toe-nails also must not be forgotten,

as when left too long they often cause trouble

in walking.

Sleep.- -Sleep is one of the great essentials

of child life. A very young infant wU sleep

twenty hours out of the twenty -four ; in fact,

attention to its wants will take up all the time it

nee4 be awake, and the more it sleeps the better.

Aft^r a few weeks it begins to require less sleep,

until at between three to sis months it will

likely be awake for six or sev^n hours, whilst in

the/second year twelve hours' sleep at night and

two hours in the day wiU generally be suflScient.

A sleep in the middle of the day should be en-

co\iraged as long as possible ; if it is continued

until the sixth or seventh year so much the

better ; it will result in a stronger body and

better nerves. A child who does not get a sleep

in the day often becomes so weary and excited

that it cannot sleep at night.

It is very important, too, that all children

should be in bed at an early hour, and that their

hours should not be upset, except under some

very special circumstances. For the first three

years bed-time should not be later than 6.30 p.1.1.

Children of from three to five should be in bed

by 7 o'clock, and then the time for sitting up

should be increased very slowly until between

the ages of thirteen and fourteen the child is

going to bed between 8.30 and 9 o'clock.

An infant may be allowed to sleep a great deal

out of doors in its pram or bassinette. Be care-

ful that this is placed out of a draught and

sheltered from the sun. The baby must always

be in a lying-down position when sleeping ,

when older and able to sit up, it must on no

account be allowed to sleep in this position or

injury may be caused to the spine and neck.

The baby must be very comfortably wrapped up

and placed on its side. It is a good plan also

to change the side on which it sleeps and not to

lay it repeatedly in the same position.

A child should not be hushed or rocked to

sleep, and an empty india-rubber teat or com-

forter should never be employed to keep it quiet.

Neither should it require some one to sit with it

until it goes to sleep, or be taken up and brought

into a lighted sitting-room because it happens

to waken up and cry. Tliese are all bad habits

which are quite unnecessary, and if once com-

menced are very difficult to break off. It should

not be necessary either to insist upon silence

in the house after the baby has gone to bed ;

the child who has learnt to sleep while talking

and even music is going on in an adjoining

room will soon sleep through any sound, and

not be easily startled.

As the child grows older the question of ac-

customing him to sleep in the dark will also have

to be considered. There will be no difficulty on

this score with healthy normal children who have

been trained from infancy to go to sleep almost

as soon as they are laid in their Uttle cots, but as

the child grows older lois powers of imagination

become an important factor to be reckoned with.

Some children are highly nervous and subject

to night terrors - although patience and firmness

on the part of the mother will help a great deal

towards curing this condition, yet it would be

absolute cruelty to force a child subject to

nervous fears to sleep in the dark. There are

many grown-up people who dread darkness - is

it to be wondered at, therefore, that some chil-

dren manifest the same weakness ? Such fears, it

is true, are often caused by injudicious manage-

482

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

ment on the part of parent* and nurses. For

instance, threats such as " I'll ask the bogies to

come and take you," or else stories of naughty

little boys and girls being stolon from home at

night-time, are quite sufficient to fill even the

least nervously-inclined children with fear.

Let a mother see to it, therefore, that her chil-

dren are not frightened in tliis way, and that

their little imaginations are not distorted by

injudicious stories of wicked people, witches and

ghosts, wliich are so often related to them by

well-intentioned but stupid people, who cannot

appreciate the harm they are doing.

All over-excitement of any kind should be

avoided ; the healthier and more childish the

life led by the little ones, the less prone will

they be to over-excitability and nervousness ;

a nervous child requires the greatest care and

management, and it is only the patient and

careful mother who, whilst doing her utmost to

convince her little one that his fears are ground-

less, wiU see that he leads a healthy life in every

way ; who will be able by care and good manage-

ment to counteract a tendency to nervousness,

which will get worse as the child grows older if

no effort is made to check it.

Even an infant may be taught that the night

is to be passed quietly if, when it is necessary

to attend to its wants, everything is done with-

out excitement and with as little light as possible.

Fresh air is the best sedative, and the child

who has been out of doors during the day, who

is well fed and made comfortable in bed, ought

to go off into a quiet and refreshing sleep without

any trouble, unless there is something physically

wrong.

As said before, the covering of the beds must

be warm and light (see p. 475) and regulated

according to the temperatui'e and climate. A

little child must never bo allowed to suffer from

cold, nor lie awake for that reason. In very

cold weather very little children, or children

with poor circulation, should have their beds

warmed with a hot bottle before they are put

into them. The window in the sleeping-room

should always be open. Rather have a fire when

cold than shut the window, as a fire is always a

good ventilator. No gas must be left burning

during the night. If for any reason a light is

required, it is better to have a night-light.

Children are very apt to kick off the bed-

clothes at night, and for this reason flannel

sleeping-suits are better than nightgowns, even

for girls, or tapes may be sewn to the corner of

the top blanket and fastened to the bedstead.

On no account must a child be allowed to sleep

with its head under the clothes.

About 10 o'clock the nurse or mother should

always see that the children are sleeping properly

before she goes to bed, and the little ones ought

to be lifted and their wants attended to until

this is no longer necessary.

Whilst dealing with this subject a word of

warning may well be given to mothers. In

spite of the most careful training, some children

form the habit of wetting their beds at night.

Very often a child afflicted with worms will do

tliis as a result of the irritation that sets in.

Attention must be directed to ridding the child

of the worms before he can bo cured of this

habit. Very often, however, a child will be

liable to this distressing tendency in spite of

every precaution and care and without any

apparent reason or cause. In these circum-

stances it is ntiore often than not that he is

afflicted ^vith some bodily defect. Medical

advice should at once be sought, and punishment

should never be administered for what the child

cannot help. All such cases demand careful

treatment and management.

Fresh Air and Exercise. - The Walk out of

Doors. - If children are to thrive they must be

out in the open air £is much as possible. The

importance of this cannot be too strongly

emphasised. Of course, some judgnnent must be

shown as regards weather and in choosing the

hours for the daily walk. It would be wrong

to send out very young children in snow or rain,

if a very cold wind were blowing, or in very

great heat.

In summer weather even the new-born infant

may be taken out of doors after the first few da3's,

although, of course, in winter more precautions

must be taken, and a time must be chosen when

the sun is shining. The little one might then

be accustomed more gradually to a change of

temperature by wrapping it up and taking it

into a cooler room for a short time.

For the first few walks the tiny infant should

be taken out in its nurse's arms and a ten to

fifteen minutes' airing will be sufficiently long ;

after that the time might be increased gradually.

When the monthly nurse leaves, the baby should

be taken out in a bassinette-perambulator, or

one in which it can lie as comfortably as in its

little cot.

The choice of the first pram is very important.

It must be one on four wheels and well swung, so

that there is no vibration which might injure

the child's spine. It ought also to be fitted with

a mattress and pillow, protected and covered in

the same way as the bed (see p. 470). There

should also bo a hood or canopy, to protect from

the sun or inclemencies of weather. The baby

must be comfortably placed in his pram, a

warm bottle being put in if the weather is cold,

and a light and warm covering. The perambu-

lator must bo wheeled very steadily, and on no

account must it be jolted down steps, even one

or two, while the baby is in it. This bassinette-

perambulator must bo used until the baby has

gained sufficient strength to sit up without

causing any strain on the spine. The same pram

can then be adapted accordingly. A mail-cart

should not be used until the child is between a

year and eighteen months old, and care must

THE CHILD

483

always be taken that the little legs do not

dangle, and also that they are well protected

from the cold.

When a child is being wheeled out of doors it

must always be protected from the hot rays of

the sunshine, from cold wind, or from snow or

rain.

As soon as the child is steady on its legs it

should be encouraged to walk a little out of

doors, as this helps to keep up the circulation -

just a little to begin with and increasing the

distance very gradually. The mail-cart must not

be discarded too early, because although it is

all-important that children should be out of

doors, it is very wrong to drag them along when

the httle legs and bodies are tired. Of course,

when there is a garden or field into which the

little ones can be tiu-ned to play and run about

in fine weather, the life out of doors is very much

simplified - it is the town-bred child who is to be

pitied in this respect.

Other Exercises. - The exercise that an infant

can take is very limited, but still it has its little

movements, and these should not be checked

but rather encouraged, as they help to develop

its muscles. When the child is a little older it

should be put on the floor on a rug and allowed

to kick and roll about, and, later on, to crawl.

Care must always be taken that it is well pro-

tected and not hampered with its clothing. The

habit of tossing a baby up and down is a very

bad one ; it should not be excited, and there is

no occasion to hold it and nurse it all its waking

horn's. Neither should it be hurried into walking

- in fact, there is no occasion to teach walking, as

the baby wiU learn by itself as soon as the little

legs are strong enough and able to bear the

weight of the body. The use of the play-pen is

excellent for this, as the baby will soon drag

itself up the sides and begin cautiously to move

round. Then later on a baby-walker might be

used (see illustration); the baby stands inside

Baby-Walker.

this and pushes it along. It is always better to

let them learn to walk gradually rather than to

press them forward, as some children are natur-

ally more backward than others in this respect.

At about four or five years old some simple

movements in calisthenics or Swedish gymnastics

may be started, but th- y must not be continued

for too long. As soon as possible, too, the child

should be taught to hold itself erect and to

move gracefully. Dancing is very valuable in

this respect, as it develops grace and gives light-

ness of movement.

Swimming is another excellent exercise for

young children, if done in moderation and the

child is strong enough. Then later on the

child should be encouraged to take part in out-

door games, the amount to be always carefully

regulated by the mother, as the tendency in

many cases, especially with girls, is to go beyond

their strength.

CHILDREN'S AILMENTS

Symptoms of Illness. - It should be taken as a

general rule that the less medicine given in the

nursery the better it will be for the httle ones.

A warm bath and a suitable aperient form the

best panacea for most childish disorders. For

the more serious ailments, or when in doubt in

regard to treatment of ordinary disorders, a

doctor should be consulted. Never on any

account administer drugs without medical ad-

vice. The health of many a child has been

ruined by the administration of sleeping draughts

by unscrupulous nurses.

A great deal of the anxiety connected with the

rearing of children lies in the difficulty some-

times experienced in discriminating between

the various symptoms of illness which appear.

When a child appears to be aihng it may happen

that the indisposition is only a sUght and tem-

porary one ; on the other hand, the symptoms

might be the premonition of sickening for bron-

chitis, measles, or some other illness to wloich

children are more or less hable. Every mother

should keep a chnical thermometer in order that

she may be able to take the child's temperature

and so recognise feverishness when it is present.

In taking the temperature of children the ther-

mometer should be placed not in the mouth,

but either in the armpit or groin ; it should be

allowed to remain there ten minutes, and upon

taking it away the temperature will be found

to be accurately noted. The normal temperature

is 98-4№ ; in fever it will rise to 100№ and over.

When a child is feverish the safest plan is to

at once put it to bed, seeing that it is kept

warm to obviate the risk of cliill, which might

be caught if it is exposed to cold or draught

or allowed out in the open air in its feverish

condition, often with fatal results.

In infantine disorders a great deal is often

indicated by the natm-e of an infant's cry - the

low, wailing cry indicating cold is quite distinct

from the sharp impatient cry of hunger and the

moaning of pain, whilst a half -smothered, hoarse

cry is often indicative of bronchitis or other

chest troubles. An infant's breathing is often

a guide to its condition ; for instance, hurried

breathing followed by wheezing denotes bron-

chitis, then there is the sharp fighting for breath

484

THE WOMAlf^'S BOOK

and crowing sound eissociated with crowing

croup.

There are many other signs which indicate

a child's condition of health, too many to be

entered upon fully in a book of this kind.

Suffice it to say that, in addition to tho symptoms

mentioned, when a child's little face has the flush

of fever, when it has tho pinched and wan look of

pain, when its eyes become either vacant or wild

in their expression, it may be taken that it is

suffering from disorder of some kind which might

turn out to be serious if neglected, and the ut-

most precautions should therefore be observed,

and medical advice sought in case of need or

doubt.

Teething. - The first teeth should begin to

appear at six months, the two front teeth or

incisors of the lower jaw coming first, the upper

incisors making their appearance in another

month, and the other teeth by degrees until the

end of the second year. Some children, how-

ever, are very backward in teething. Most

healthy infants cut their teeth without much

trouble, but often the gums become very swollen

and sensitive, and the infant is feverish and fret-

ful. Rubbing the gums with tlio fingers has a

soothing effect, also the child may be given an

india-rubber ring to bite, but care must be taken

to keep this clean. At night-time a warm bath

will often give reUef. The feverishness which is

usually present at the time of teething makes a

baby very susceptible to chill, and this is what

principally causes the many infantine ailments,

such as diarrhoea, &c., generally associated with

the teething period. At this time, therefore,

additional precaution against the danger of

catching cold must be taken. During teething

a quantity of saliva dribbles from tho child's

mouth. This should not be allowed to go

through the clothing or bronchitis may result.

Change the bib frequently - a small piece of

mackintosh placed underneath it will keep the

clothing dry.

DiarrhGea. - This may usually be ascribed to

some fault in tho diet and occurs frequently at

the teething period. If the infant is being

brought up by hand, add a dessert-spoonful of

lime-water to its bottle ; if it is being nursed

by tho mother, give dill-water and lime-water

mixed - a teiv-spoonful of each.

Constipation should never be neglected, as it

may load to convulsions and other ills. This

complaint is most prevalent with infants

brought up by hand. Care must be taken that

the proper proportion of barley water is in the

bottle. Give baby a drink of water first thing

in the morning. Massage of tho abdomen will

do good. An enema may bo given, but only

very occa-sionally. The administration of pur-

gatives is inadvisable as a rule, although a

tea-spoonful of salad oil may sometimes be

given. The child should be trained early in the

forming of regular habits.

Babies of a year old and upwards may be

given with advantage the insides of well-cooked

fruit, such as apples, bananas, &c.

Thrush is an affection of the mouth due to the

formation of a parasitic yeast which forms white

patches on tlio gums, cheeks, and throat. The

condition is most common in hand-fed infants,

being often caused by dirty bottles, dummy

teats, and general bad management. The treat-

ment should bo an improvement in the general

management of the baby, a httle honey and

borax or some glycerine of boric acid should

be applied to the white patches by means of a

camel's-hair brush or a little cotton wool.

Convulsions. - These are due to some irrita-

tion in tho nervous system, often occurring during

teething - and may be caused by indigestible

food, constipation, worms, or even a pin in the

clothing. The treatment is to detect and, if

possible, remove the cause. The child should

at once be stripped and placed in a hot bath of

about 100№ F., the hot water reaching the nape

of the neck. An enema should bo given next,

more especially in the case of worms, and medical

aid should be obtained. If the convulsions are

caused by teething, the gums may be lanced

with advantage. The approach of convulsions

may generally be anticipated when the infant

grinds its teeth in sleep and is subject to severe

facial twitchings.

Crowing or Spasmodic Croup. - This is due to a

spasm in the larynx of nervous origin, and is

most common among rickety children at teething

time. A loud crowing sound is indicative of

the attack, which is most distressing while it

lasts and usually occurs at night. The ch'ld

fights for breath, its fingers are clenched, its face

livid. A flannel or sponge wrung out in hot

water and applied to tho throat will often give

reUef. Make the child sit up and give half to

a tea-spoonful of ipecacuanha wine to induce

vomiting, giving another doso after ten minutes

if this does not act. Medical advice should be

obtained, and great care taken in regard to

general management and diet.

Chills should never bo neglected, as otherwise

bronchitis, pneumonia, or pleurisy may result.

When a child is seen to have a serious chill put

him straight to bed, giving him a warm drink

and an aperient, if needs bo. Take his tempera-

ture, and if it is above normal for twelve hours it

will be advisable to call in medical aid.

Little Ulcers. - When those appear on the

tongue or lips give half a tea-spoonful flower of

sulphur in a little treacle and apply glycerine

and borax.

Weak Legs and Ankles. - These are too often

the result of forcing a child to walk more than

is good for it at too early an age ; the little legs

become " bandy " and scarcely seem to support

the body. See that the child is not too much on

his feet, and bathe the legs and ankles regularly

in salt and water.

THE CHILD

485

Ringworm. - Shave off the hair round tlie

siffected part and paint with iodine. Apply a

coating of iodine daily until the ring-worm dis-

appears. If the case is a bad one, it should be

under medical treatment.

Worms. - Children are often affected with

these ; the best cure is to give an enema of two

pints warm water with two table-spoonfuls

common salt added to it - and a dose of castor-

oil after. If very persistent, feed the child on

rice pudding for a day or two.

Sleep - Walking, or Sonmambulism. - Sleep-

walking generally occiu-s in highly -strung school

children who are over-worked. The treatment

should be in medical hands, and meanwhile

the windows and doors must be guarded and the

child not left to sleep in a room by himself.

Prolapse or descent of the lower bowel so that

it appears externally sometimes occurs with

children. The cause is prolonged straining at

stool from constipation, or other source of bowel

irritation. The prolapsed bowel should be at

once washed and then gently squeezed back bj'

grasping it with a clean piece of old Unen smeared

with vasehne or olive oil. After the replacement

of the bowel has been accompUshed, a diaper

should be folded and passed between the legs ;

this should then be secured in front and beliind

to a waist-belt. In future the child should pass

its motions lying down, all strong aperients must

be avoided, and any prolapse corrected directly

after the motion.

TRAINING AND EDUCATION

Early Training. - With the mother first of all

must rest the responsibility of the early training

of her little ones. It is during the first seven

years of a child's Hfe that the most lasting im-

pression is made on the little mind, and that the

greatest influence is brought to bear for evil or

for good. Great educational authorities assert

that these first years of childhood are of the

utmost importance in education, both mentally

and morally, and if they are wisely ordained

the good influence of early training and teaching

will manifest itself throughout life ; the adverse

influence of bad training having equally lasting

effects.

The most valuable training for a child, there-

fore, is that which begins at his mother's knees.

Let every mother bear this in mind, let her

remember that tho shaping of her child's char-

acter rests in the main with her, and let her not

spare herself in seeing that her responsibility

in tliis respect is faithfully and conscientiously

discharged.

A child should be made to learn early the

lessons of obedience and self-control. This re-

quires the utmost patience on the part of the

mother. She must make it quite clear from the

first that when she eTpresses a wish it must

be obeyed, and never waver from lier attitude

of gentle firimiess. A child very soon learns if

its parent's word is law, or if he can make her

alter her mind by means of a httle coaxing.

It ia very hard at times for a mother to resist

the pretty childish graces which are often put

forward as an inducement for her to waver from

some precept or excuse some fault, but once

she gives way to such blandishments, she may-

give up all idea of ever having her children under

perfect control. The knowledge that when

mother says a thing she means it does more than

anything else to win the respect and confidence

of the Uttle ones. For this reason all promises

must be religiously kept and in the same way all

threats of punishment fulfilled. Broken promises

and empty threats are equally harmful. The

first beget in the children a lack of confidence as

well as a sense of injustice, wliilst the second

cannot possibly have any effect upon the child

who knows perfectly well that they will not be

carried out.

Parents should be careful to set a good example

to their children upon all occasions, both in their

powers of self-control and their courtesy of

demeanour towards each other. Never give way

to temper before a child nor enter into quarrel-

hng or argvunent of any kind. It must be re-

membered that in Httle ones the imitative

faculties are developed to an almost abnormal

extent, and that a child's character will receive

lasting irjpressions from those with whom he

comes into contact in early childhood. Let an

effort be made, therefore, that he shall never

learn anything but good from his surroundings.

A mother should not allow her cliildren to be

too much in the company of servants ; and,

what is very important, she should be particular

to choose a niu'se who speaks the King's English,

correctly, as a bad accent or Cocknej-ism is very

soon acquired by the little ones, and exceedingly

difficult to cure.

The children should be as much as possible

with people of refinement. During the years

which intervene between babyhood and the age

when lessons may begin, it a good plan to engage

a lady to be witli the little ones for a few hours

daily, taking them for then- walks, and making

their deportment and manners her special care.

There are very many ladies having home ties

which prevent them from taking any resident

position who would be only too pleased to obtain

a post of the kind. For the mother who has a

number of social duties which preclude her from

spending as much time with her children as she

would wish, such a plan has much in its favour.

In most families the children join their parents

at luncheon, this being the dinner-hour for the

little ones. This is a verj' good custom, as it

enables them to acquire the manners and de-

portment to be observed at table. A mother

should begin early to train her child in this direc-

tion. Bad manners should always be punished

by banishment from the dining-room, and a soli-

486

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

tary meal in tlie nursery. Properly trained

children can be allowed to sit at the luncheon

table when friends are present without any

qualms of anxiety being felt by the parents as

to how they will behave, whilst ill-mannered

children will be a source not only of shame to

the parents, but annoyance to their guests.

It is not good for children to be banished

altogether to the nursery, but, on the other hand,

it is very bad for them to be too much with

grown-up people. Nowadays it seems to be

the feisliion for mothers to take their children

about with them everywhere. Dressed like little

fashion plates, they are taken to pay calls, to

At Homes, to luncheons and dinners at restaur-

ant.s - they are, in fact, treated as regular little

men and women of the world and encouraged

to show off upon all occasions. The little girls

might be miniature ladies of fasMon by the airs

and graces they are trained to assume. To

every right-feeling mother there can be no more

sorry spectacle than that presented by an over-

dressed precocious child lajnng herself out for

admiration and attention and conducting her-

self with all the savoir faire of a woman of thirty.

The ill-advised mother who is responsible for

this is guilty of little less than cruelty to her

child, whom she has robbed of the best joys of

cliildhood by turning her into a little woman

before her time.

Grown-up people should also be very careful

in regard to their conversation before children.

Many things heard from the elders are stored

up in the small memories, and are apt to come

out upon the most awkward occasions. Never

indulge in scandal or gossip of any kind before

a child. Many parents err most flagrantly in

this respect, heedlesa of the fact that by so doing

they are sowing the seeds of unkindness and ill-

nature in the hearts and minds of the little ones.

The simpler the life led by the children the

happier they will be. Simple meals, regular

hours, and plenty of healthful exercise should be

the keynote of the regime of both nursery and

school-room. How pleasant it is to see the

enjoyment manifested by children so brought

up at the most simple treats and pleasures.

They are real children in every sense of the

^ word, and in later life they will have none but

\ happy recollections of a childhood passed in this

I way.

' Pocket- Money. - A too liberal allowance of

pocket-money should never be made. There

is nothing more conducive to extravagance in

Ipter years than an unlimited supply of pocket-

money during childhood. Tlie exact sum given

mtst of course depend upon circumstances.

For children of from seven to ten years of age

2d. to 3d. per week represents a fairly good

average. At a boarding-school the allowance

of pocket-money should depend upon the pre-

vailing r6gime. A parent should make a point

of obtaining enlightenment in regard to this from

the head master or mistress, regulating the allow-

ance accordingly. Boys or girls at school sliould

neither have more nor less pocket-money than

that received by their companions.

Punishments. - The injudicious administration

of punishments has served to spoil the character

of many an otherwise well-disposed child, often

tiirning a girl or boy of a really affectionate and

phable disposition into a hardened little rebel.

How few parents are there who know how to

punish judiciously and wisely, and, what is of

more importance, to give a punishment in pro-

portion to the offence committed.

The precept that a child is more easily led

than driven should always be well borne in mind.

The parents' rule should, therefore, be a gentle

though a firm one, and the child must be brought

to reaUse the benefits of not transgressing in any

way against that rule, together with the penalty

attendant upon transgression when it occurs.

A child must always reaUse why he is being

ptmished, and be able to appreciate the justice

of the punishment. If he is easily made to

understand the penalties attending certain acts,

he will be more likely to avoid them.

Take, for instance, the tiny toddler of two

years whose powers of inquisitiveness are such

that he develops an uncontrollable desire to

touch and handle everything with which he

comes in contact. Many distressing accidents

have occurred through the mother failing to

teach him that when he touches a certain for-

bidden object there is always a penalty attached

to his disobedience. For instance, there is a

jug of hot water placed within the reach of

master baby. He shows an inclination oo

handle it. The wise mother will not at once

put it out of his reach, but will say warningly,

" Don't touch that - ^very hot - baby will burn

himself," carefully watching him to see that he

comes to no harm. Baby probably makes up

his mind to disobey, but he will touch it tenta-

tively, with the result that he does not burn his

little fingers as he would have done without his

mother's warning, but at the same time experi-

ences a very disagreeable sensation, and so

realises the result of disobedience and will not

offend again.

A child should not bo indiscriminately slapped

for every little fault. Many parents look upon

the most ordinary childish behaviour as naughti-

ness, sternly repressing any tendency to high

spirits. The constant habit of boxing a boy's

ears, or slapping and shaking a little girl upon

the least provocation is most reprehensible.

It tends to foster a sense of injustice in the

minds of the little ones, and will serve to lay the

foundation of a stubborn and dogged disposition.

There is nothing more harmful to the childish

mind than that it should be labouring inces-

santly under a sense of wrong. Children will

rebel against all those by whom they think

they are being treated with injustice, whereas

THE CHILD

487

with judicious management they can be as often

as not most easily led. This explains the

fact that some governesses and tutors have

succeeded where others have failed. The former

have mastered the art of the proper management

of children through not only being just but

through being able to look at things from a

child's point of view ; also being able to dis-

criminate between big and little faults, making

their charges realise the justice of punishment

when deserved. There has been much ai-gument

for and against corporal punishment in the

bringing up of cliildren, but it maj'^ be safely said

the more it can be avoided the better. It is true

that in case of a baby who is too young to under-

stand reasoning, and who, for instance, shows a

tendency to make his mouth the receptacle for

buttons, pennies, or anything else he can find,

one and only one sharp tap will often be effective

in deterring the child from repeating the attempt,

though even in these circumstances prevention

is better than cure, and the mother would do

well to keep all these kinds of things out of the

child's reach.

With the older children, however, the maxim

" Spare the rod and spoil the child " should be

taken in its moral rather than in its literal sense.

No fault should ever be allowed to go unchecked.

It is worse than useless to punish a child for a

fault on one day and allow it to go unreproved

the next. In very special circumstances a

whipping may be necessary, but never give it

unless after due deliberation you have come to

the conclusion that other methods of punishment

will fail. Never punish a cliild in a moment of

anger at one of his offences. There is no more

unedifying sight than that of a parent who has

completely lost her self-control administering

punishment to a child, a punishment which

under the circumstances is likely to be out of

all proportion to the offence. Give the anger

time to cool down so that you will be able to see

the fault in its normal proportions, then summon

the little offender, and after reasoning gently

with him and showing him the error of his ways

and explaining to him why punishment has to

be given, pass sentence. It may be said that

constant whipping has tho effect of spoiling

and hardening many a little nature. A child

can be punished in many other ways. Being

obliged to stay at home while the others go

out with mother, being debarred from some

favourite game, or being sent to bed an hour

earlier than usual, all are punishments which

tell mth children. Never punish a child by its

fears. To lock up a nervous child in a dark room,

for instance, is as cruel as it is inadvisable ; such

an action may be the cause of much harm and

actual illness to the child.

Mothers should always make a rule of

giving punishment themselves to their chil-

dren. Never allow a nursp or other servant to

slap a cliild. The roughness of some nurses

when out with their little charges has often

caused comment on the part of onlookers, and

ladies, total strangers, have been known to

remonstrate with them on their rough usage

of the children in their charge. Such a state of

things would not exist if the mother made it

clear upon engaging a nurse that impromptu

punishments such as slapping and shaking were

altogether forbidden. At the same time the

mother must carefully investigate every cause

for complaint and be careful to uphold nurse in

maintaining disciphne, never neglecting to mete

out punishment when deserved.

For the older children who are in charge of a

governess the same rule miost apply in regard to

the punishment of all the more serious trans-

gressions.

Just as delinquencies on the part of small

offenders must be met with prompt punishment,

so must any special little acts of good conduct

have their reward. A word of encouragement

here and there is of the utmost value in helping

a child to be good. Let not this encoixragement

be withheld, and be ready to reward the Uttle ones

for any special pains taken in overcoming some

fault, or performing some - to them - difficult

task. Discretion must also govern the form

which the reward must take. Parents are too

apt to give money or sweets indiscriminately on

these occasions, encouraging involuntarily a

love of extravagance and even greediness in

their children. Gifts of the kind now and then

will do no harm, but do not let the rewards

always take this form. Such treats as a walk or

a picnic in the country, permission to invite some

little friends to tea will be appreciated by

children who are brought up in a becomingly

simple manner, and who will hail with delight

any little departure from the ordinary routine.

CHILDREN'S LITERATURE

1. Why do we wish our Children to Read ? - This

will depend largely upon our own attitude to

literature. If, next to a hving soul, a book is to

us the most powerful influence in Ufe, if we have

realised it to be " the precious life-blood of a

master spirit," then at least one reason is not far

to seek. It is that books may become to them

what they have been to us in maturer years -

one of the most potent influences in life. Life,

we have to remember, is larger than Uterature,

and if man's business here is " to know for the

sake of living, not to live for the sake of knowing,"

then surely reading, which has been called "a

knowledge of all knowledges," has a large claim

upon his attention.

But this conscious preparation for the future

is second in importance to the present happiness

of the child. That a child should be happy, and

that it should find a large part of its happiness

in its interests, cannot be disputed.

When one thinks of the intense present

488

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

interest a child can find in literature, and of

the powerful influence good books can have in

after life, one is impelled to ask might not more

be done at home to cultivate a taste for a type of

literature much neglected by the present genera-

tion T

Is it not a mistake that as soon as a child

begins to read himself he is little read to

either at school or at home ? The ordinsury

reading lesson of a child of eight is in no way

calculated to arouse liis intellect, or to excite

his imagination, or in any way to whet the

literary appetite. How then is tliis to be done ?

Either we must continue to read aloud to our

children, or we must put within their reach

literature in so simple a form that they can read

it themselves.

2. What do we wish them to Read ? - It will be

interesting to form a child's ideal Ubrary chrono-

logically, the chronology of course having refer-

ence not to the publication of the volumes,

but to the age of the little readers.

The library will consist chiefly of nonsense,

narrative and morals. Yes, morals, for children

exult in them. The sense of moral distinction

is keen. No more pregnant words exist for him

than good and bad, cruel and kind, fair and mean,

true and false. Therefore, morals must be re-

garded as a requirement in children's literature.

We might begin our library by placing ten

books on the lowest shelf of our imaginary book-

case, suitable for children between the ages of

three and seven. The first volume shovild be

a good collection of Nursery Rhymes liberally

illustrated with story-telling pictures. The order

in which we arrange the next six books does not

matter. Not one of them is a continuous story,

and portions from each may be read at pleasure.

But it were wisdom to read these volumes from

beginning to end before adding further to the

library. Three are in prose - a selection from

" .lEsop's Fables " ; a collection of Fairy Tales ;

" Tommy Smith's Animals.^' Three are in

verse - " The Nonsense Songs and Stories of

Edward Lear " ; " The Poems of Jane and Ann

Taylor " ; " Struelpeter."

The interest and value of " .^Esop's Fables,"

wisely selected, cannot be commended too highly,

and one would wish the dissemination of the

truths they contain to be broadcast. The

volume of " Fairy Tales " should contain the

prime favourites of tlio nursery, and be written

as you would tell the tales to a child on your

knee. "In Fairyland," by Louey Chisholm, is a

fevourite collection. " Tommy Smith's Animals"

ib not universally known, but it ought to be. It

seldom fails to arouse interest and evoke en-

thusiasm. The writer is Edmund Selous.

The immortal " Struelpeter," consisting of

stories first told by a child-loving doctor to his

little patients, is well known.

Less well known are " The Nonsense Songs

and Stories of Edward Lear." It is a true

work of imagination. All cliildi-en may not

but many will revel in these tales.

" The Original Poems of Jane and Ann

Taylor," edited by E. V. Lucas, is a treasure-

house.

Seven books now occupy our lowest shelf.

There is still room for three. The two books

which might be placed next on the shelf are

" AUce in Wonderland " and " The Water

Babies," abridged by Amy Steedman. These

are the first continuous tales that our imaginary

child vnll hear. Of " AUce in Wonderland " no-

thing need be said. That it is a prime favourite

with Uttle children admits of no question.

Now to read aloud " Water Babies " in the

original to a six-year-old is an exhausting

process. There axe words for which simple

synonyms must be found and paragraph upon

paragraph which must be omitted. The in-

genuity of the reader and the patience of the

little listener are alike taxed. An abridgment

such as the above may be read more easily than

any other book on the same shelf, and there are

few books that will give such joy.

Only one vacant space is now left. Surely

there is no doubt that before the child is seven

years old we want him to know much of the life

of Jesus and many of the stories that He told.

A suitable book for tliis purpose has been a long-

felt want, but at last there appeared " A Little

Cliild's Life of Jesus," by Amy Steedman, and

for it countless mothers must be thankful.

The above mention of an abridged " Water

Babies " opens the question of the redaction of

the classics generally. One hears it asked, " If

a child reads tales re-told, will he read them lat<^r

in the original ? " One can only hazard a guess

as to the consequence of early familiarity, but

it may be pretty generally expected (1) that

those who in any case would have read the

originals will still do so ; (2) that a number of

those who would not have done so now will, as

a result of having had their appetites whoLted by

a foretaste of what the originals have to offer ;

(3) that those who will not would not have done

so in any case, and that for them it is surely

better to have read the stories in simple form

than never to have heard them at all.

One may, therefore, believe in the abridged

classic, carefully selected and reverently re-

told (1) because there is more opportunity of

reading to children before they reach eleven

years of age than later, and there does not seem

without these redactions a library of literature

sufficient to satisfy the cravings of little boys

and girls ; (2) because when children themselves

begin to read, it is almost impossible to find bookfi

they can read with ease, and we do not want

Uterature to be in any sense a reading lesson.

Although the above book-shelf is designed for

children between the ages of three and seven,

it is not meant that at seven the little library

is to be left behind, but its volumes will represent

THE CHILD

489

old friendships. There axe many children who

would rest content with a shorter catalogue,

and others who would cry that it might be

lengthened, but few boys or girls of six would

be mentally overfed or starved with a book-shelf

equipped according to the above suggestions.

The higher shelves of the imaginary book -case

we shall suppose to be for boys and girls from

seven to eleven years of age. There might be

placed the " Told to the Children Series," of

which the first four volumes in the following

complete list are included among the books

recommended for younger children. This Series,

although enjoyed by many older readers, is

primarily designed for children under eleven.

To guide choice the volumes have been tabulated

according to their simplicity of subject-matter

and manner of telling, and variety has been

studiod for the sake of any who should read the

Series consecutively.

Nursery Rhymes.

.lEsop's Fables.

Nursery Tales.

The Water Babies.

Stories from Grimm.

Tauglewood Tales.

Simple Susan.

Kobin Hood.

Robinson Crusoe.

Pilgrim's Progress.

Arabian Nights.

King Arthur's Knights.

Uncle Tom's Cabin.

Stories from Hans Andersen.

Old Testament Stories.

The Heroes.

Gulliver's Travels.

Guy of Warwick.

The Rose and the Ring.

The Faerie Queen.

Stories of Roland.

Stories from Chaucer.

Stories from the Ballads.

Stories of William Tell.

Stories from Shakespeare.

Stories of Siegfried.

Stories from Wagner.

Little Plays.

The Iliad.

The Odyssey.

Stories of Three Saints.

Stories of Beowulf.

Celtic Tales.

Don Quixote.

Undine.

More Tales from Shake-

speare.

Stories from Dante.

The omitted volume " Stories from the Life of

Christ " might be read after " Jesus, the Car-

penter of Nazareth," by Robert Bird.

The " Children's Heroes Series," edited by

John Lang, is also to be warmly recommended,

and the " Shown to the Cliildren Series " is

notable alike for letterpress and illustration.

A Uttle volume, "Ruskin for Boys and Girls,"

by Mary Macgregor, is so captivating as to

arouse interest in the series to which it belongs.

" Grandmother's Favourites," edited by Amy

Steedman, and " Old-Fashioned Tales " and

" Forgotten Tales of Long Ago," edited by E. V.

Lucas, are what their titles indicate and are all

char/ning.

Oth(>r volumes I have every confidence in

recommending are, " Tlie King of the Golden

River," by Ruskin ; " The Gold Thread," by

Norman Maclood ; " The Princess and the

Goblin," " The Princess and Cur die," and " At

the Back of the North Wind," by George Mac-

donald, and " Black Beauty " by Anna Sewell ;

" In God's Garden," " Knights of Art," and

" Legends of Italy," by Amy Steedman, and

Jacob's " Englisli Fairy Tales." A modern

writer of Fairy Tales who might be introduced

to those to whom she is unknown is Mary de

Morgan. Her volumes, " The Necklace of

Princess Fiorimonde " and " On a Pin-Cushion "

deserve to be far more widely known than

they are.

All histories by H. E. Marshall should find a

place on these shelves. Boys and girls ahke

read them as they read story-books. Room

must also be found for the deUghtful Jungle

Books of Rudyard Kiphng. The " Laughter

of Peterkin," by Fiona IMacleod, will fascinate

the imaginative child. A place must also be

reserved for those delightful Animal Stories by

Ernest Thompson Seton and by William Long.

A good anthology should find a place on every

booksheK. The children's favourite is " The

Golden Staircase " by Louey Chishohn, which is

also published in four parts as " Poetry for the

Fo\ir, Five and Six-Year-Old," &c. Other

excellent collections are " A Treasury' of Veree,"

by M. Edgar, and "A Book of Verses," by

E. V. Lucas.

3. How do we wish our Children to Read? - (1)

We must insist that the child thinks as he reads.

This is more important than to teach him

thoughts. (2) Every book that is worth reading

once is worth reading twice, and this habit can

be formed in the child while he is stiU being read

to. (3) As the child cannot omit judiciously he

must read his books word for word. (4) He

m\ist read with his whole attention. In no way

should he regard a book as a toy. (5) And,

lastly, expressions of appreciation should be

encouraged. He should be urged to give a

book a fair trial. If it does not appeal to him

let Mm put it aside, but never let his attitude

be that the book is not a good one. A gi-eat

deal can be done while the child is little to in-

fluence his attitude towards books by paj^ng

attention to how he reads.

Education. - A child develops early liis powers

of observation ; he begins to take an interest in

his surroundings and to inquire into the why and

wherefore of things, and it is at this time his

real education begins.

Parents very often show a remarkable lack of

foresight by endeavouring to check the natural

bent for inquiry taken by the little people,

treating their questions as troublesome and a

nuisance, and not even attempting to answer

the most simple inquiry. This is a great mis-

take. It must be remembered that facts of

which we seldom think, because they are so

familiar to us that their existence is accepted

as a matter of course, are entirely new to the

child whose observant faculties are beginning to

develop, and the questions asked are usually the

result of a real desire for knowledge. The in-

cessant " wliy " of children is apt to become

tiresome, but a mother should never lose patience.

It would be a clever woman indeed who could

answer all the questions put to her by a child.

490

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

She would have to be a veritable walking en-

cyclopaedia to do so ; but she Bhould do her best

to answer them as far as is in her power. If

she is not quite sure of the right answer

to give, she should not take the course adopted

by some mothers of making up a reply to

keep the child quiet. Instead she should

say, " I couldn't answer that, dear, just now,

but I shall find out for you by and by,"

never failing to keep her promise in this

respect. A good encyclopaedia and a refer-

ence book are almost indispensable on the

family book-shelf; without them many of the

little one's questions will have to go unanswered.

There are some questions asked by claildren, it is

true, to which it is not at all feasible that an

answer should be given. Again, in these circum-

stances do not tell the child untruths, or get

cross and impatient with him, but tell him

gently that you cannot give him the answer

now as he is too little to understand. To

judiciously gratify the natural bent of a child

for inquiry and cultivate his powers of obser-

vation is to give him the best teaching he

can have during his early years. A child

should never be put to book learning too

soon. Reading and writing can be taught well

enough when he is in his sixth or seventh year,

and even then the lessons must be gradual and

such as will not keep him long at his desk.

Never force children to learn lessons too early.

Very sharp children especially will stand in

danger of having their brains overtaxed if they

are too much pushed forward in this respect.

Let the child be out as much as possible in the

open air, enjoying healthy exercise, building up

strength for his little body. All this time he

will be learning - learning to take note of all that

goes on around him, and this is all the education

that matters in very early childhood.

Let the mother who is her child's teacher set

to work in a manner that will make teaching

seem to him as play. It may indeed be play,

but instructive play for all that, and to be able

to teach in this way a mother will need to ac-

quire not a httle knowledge herself. Educational

authorities have now recognised the value of

nature study in the instruction of the j'cjung.

What useful lessons can be given in long country

walks by a mother who can tell her child tlic-

history of the things he sees, showing him the

difference between the various kinds of leaves

and flowers, telling him all about the different

trees, the birds, the various little dwellers in the

ponds and in the fields. What moral tales can

be pointed out also - what better object lesson

can there be than in the industry and providence

of a little colony of ants or of a hive of bees ? -

what better foundation to education can a child

have than a habit of being able to take note of

all these things and understand them ? Such a

training will be to him of more value than all the

spelling lessons and multiplication tables labori-

ously learned and repeated with mechanical

precision. Try to cultivate a child's reasoning

powers before you tax his little memory. In

this way the best results will be achieved.

When the time comes for the child to set to

work in earnest to learn to read and wi'ite,

the same principle of making work as much

like play as possible should bc' observed. Such

methods are embodied in the best kindergarten

system, notably the Froebel System. A mother

may often find it advisable to ssnd the little

ones to a kindergarten school for an hour or two

every day, or else to engage a governess well

versed in the Froebel method if she is not free

to do the teacliing herself. If she does elect

to teach herself and she is acquainted with this

method, so much the better. If not, she may

easily obtain instruction at one of the Froebel

institutes, but generally her own method will

be as effective as any other if she only keeps

before her the one guiding principle not to make

the lessons a series of monotonous repetitions

of words learned by rote, but to make them

as interesting as possible, graduating them in

accordance with the child's powers of compre-

hension, so that he can assimilate them naturally

without any strain upon his memory.

As boys and girls get older the same care must

be maintained in seeing that their brains are

not overtaxed in any way. Remember that a

child's mental development should never be

forced to the detriment of his (or her) physical

well-being. It is a great deal to be deplored

that some parents and teachers are slow to

recognise the fact that a great amount of study

is very bad for some girls and boys. These as .a

rule are only too eager to learn, taking to theii"

books as ducks take to water ; nevertheless,

this avidity for learning must be checked if the

evil results of undue mental strain are to be

avoided. It is more natural for normal healthy

boys and girls to shirk some of their lessons than

to bo eager to have a double dose. Overs Liidy is

responsible for much ill-health amongst young

people. It unfortunately happens that at the

age of foiu'teen to fifteen, just when our children

require most care if they are to grow up well and

strong, they have to enter for some public ex-

amination, in preparation for which a certain

amount of cramming is required. The passing

of such an examination is often looked upon as a

matter of almost life and death by both children

and their parents, with the result that the former

are encouraged to study during all their leisure

hours and often until late at night, forgoing all

healthful exercise and recreation in order that

they may make sure of passing well. This is a

very wrong policy indeed, and to it may bo

ascribed many a nervous breakdown amongst

our girls and boys. Never tax a child with

learning beyond his (or her) powers. When any

special course of study is necessary, see that it is

strictly kept within the limits of working hours.

THE CHILD

491

Sufficient exercise and recreation are essential

for both the mental and physical well-being of

our children, and they must not be forgone

under any circumstances. When children must

enter for examination, let them begin their pre-

parations a long time beforehand in order that

there may be no undue rush at the end. For the

University Locals, for instance, one year's pre-

paration is not one bit too much, yet many

parents expect their children to get ready for

them in three or four months.

If, although given aniple time for prepara-

tion, a child is still unable to limit his studies to

regular houi"S, then it must be taken that the

task is altogether beyond liis (or her) powers,

and it should either be put oS for another year

or else altogether abandoned if needs be.

Parents should strive early to discover any

special aptitude displayed by their children,

in order that they may do their utmost to bring

out their talents in any particular direction.

Their education should be planned first and

foremost from the point of view of utility, special

attention being given to knowledge that will

prove useful to them in later hfe.

For instance, study of the classics should not

be pursued to such an extent as to leave little

time for foreign languages in the case of those

destined for a commercial career. When a

child has reached the ago of thirteen or fourteen,

a parent should see that his studies are directed

towards specialisation for the career of his choice.

The same applies to those girls who will have to

earn their own living as they reach a suitable

age. Too often parents spend all their time and

money upon the education of their boys, where-

as little trouble is expended upon the training of

the gu'ls ; a few years at a boarding-school and

perhaps a year at a " finishing " school too often

represents the sum total of the education of the

average girl, who, thus poorly equipped, is often

expected to go out into the world and earn her

own living in an age when specialisation is

exacted if one has to earn a living wage. Such

treatment is decidedly unfair ; when a girl has to

work for herself she has less odds in her favour

than a boy. Is it not all the more essential,

therefore, that she should go out into the world

fittingly equipped to hold her own in the career

she has chosen ? There are many careers njow

open to women, full details of which are given

in another part of this book, but in connection

with each trade or profession a certain amount

of specialisation is necessary if it is to be followed

with success.

A girl's education, therefore, requires to be

mapped out as carefully as that of her brothers,

more especially if she is required to turn it to

advantage in later life, but, and this is of the

utmost importance, the study of domestic science

should nor be excluded. Needlework, cookery,

and household management should form part of

every girl's curriculum. A mother should make

this training her special care. Too often nowa-

days girls are taught to look down upon house-

work of every kind, with the result that when

called upon to undertake the management of a

home of their own they are totally unfitted for

the task. S\ich mistaken poUcy is much to be

deplored ; a woman should not only be able

to hold her own in all branches of the womanly

art, but she should also take a pride in being

able to do so.

Value of Accomplishments for Girls. - In the

education of girls accomphshments should take

a prominent place, and all talent for music,

singing, painting, &c., should be carefully

brought out. An accomplished lady is not only

an ornament in society, but she serves to contri-

bute in a large measure to the happiness of her

own home. Accomphshments are always useful

to a girl, and should she by any circumstances be

compelled to earn her own livelihood, they can

always be turned to good account.

In selecting a school care should be taken to

ascertain whether there is good instruction in

music, drawing, painting and dancing ; and in

regard to the first three whether the pupils

are prepared for the examinations of the cliief

colleges of music and art. If lessons are taken

at home from private teachers, care should be

taken to ascertain that these are well qualified

in every way. It is a great advantage for Uttle

girls to learn dancing at a very tender age. This

helps to make their little hmbs and bodies supple

and pliable, and their carriage and deportment

graceful. Much of the native gaucherie of

childliood is eliminated by early instruction in

tliis art. As girls get older, fencing is also an

art which is worth cultivation, as its practice

secures an alertness and lightness of movement

which is not so easily acquired in any other way.

G5rmnastics are also essential, not only from the

point of view of health and physique, but also

from that of carriage and deportment. In most

of our towns, girls' classes are held at the largo

gymnasivmis, the fees for the course of instruction

being very moderate indeed. A girl should also

be encouraged to take part in healthy outdoor

games, such as hockey and tennis. She should

never be allowed to stoop when sittmg over table

or desk, as this habit is responsible for those un-

sightly round shoulders which do so luuch to mar

an otherwise good figure.

The doctrine of " self help " should be early

inculcated in the minds of girls and boys aUke,

and in this way they will be prepared for the

responsibilities of later Hfe. Parents should

rerciember that by giving their cliildren a good

mental and moral education they are endowing

them with what will pro^'e to be a most valuable

asset in life, the importance of which cannot be

too highly estimated. Let them see, therefore,

that they do their duty in this direction as far

as is in their power, and they will be happy in

the knowledge that they have left no stone uu-

492

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

turned to send their cliildren out into the world

fittingly equipped for the career of their

choice.

The Governess. - For their early education

children are often placed by parents under the

care of a governess, and many girls receive

their entire education from childhood to young

womanhood in this way. Parents cannot use

too much discrimination in choosing the lady to

whom they are to trust the tuition of their little

ones, but, incomprehensible though such a course

would seem, as a rule they place economy before

all other considerations, and where they would

pay their cook £25 a year without a qualm, they

grudge even £20 a year for the salary of their

governess. This point of view is altogether

wrong. Can parents ever be sufficiently grate-

ful to tlie lady who conscientiously fulfils her

duty towards her charges by givnng them a good

foundation upon which to build their future

education ? Is the v^'elfare of their children a

matter of such indifference to parents that they

grudge even a living wage to her to whom the

children will owe so much, if her task is well done?

The erroneous economy practised in this respect

is responsible for the large number of uneducated

young women who fill the position of " nursery

governess." They are content to do indifferent

work for indifferent wages ; in fact, in many cases

they are not much above the level of the ordinary

domestic servant, being called upon to combine

the duties of governess, nurse, and general help,

with the result that the children are not only

badly taught, but badly cared for as well.

Such a state of things should not be ; it is much

better to let the cliildren remain in the care of a

good nurse, taking their first lessons from their

mother until they are of an age to be put in the

charge of a fully qualified lady. When children

ai^ six or seven years old, if properly trained,

they have been taught to do little things for

themselves, and the care of them does not entail

so much work and worry as that of the very

little ones. There are well-educated ladies fully

equipped for teaching in every way who are

quite willing to take " entire charge " of children

of six years old and upwards, and who would

certainly not wish to be classed as " nursery "

governesses. There would be more room for

the many well-educated girls and women who

find it so hard to get positions, if mothers would

realise the fact that those in charge of the tuition

of even very little children must bo ladies of

izood education if they are to adequately fulfil

ihe important task entrusted to them. There

are also many other considerations by which

parents should be guided in engaging a governes.s.

The day of the harsh, unsympathetic disciplin-

arian is passed, or should be, with parents who

have the welfare of their little ones at heart. A

young bright girl who is fond of children is

infinitely preferable to an elderly spinster whom

age and care will probably have hardened, and

who often has but little sjonpathy with or

understanding of youth.

Employers cannot be too tactful in their

treatment of their governess. It must be re-

membered that a lady so situated fills a rather

anomalous position in a household, being of the

family and yet not of it. Tliey should remember

that she is a lady, and treat her accordingly.

Children and servants should be taught to look

upon her with respect. Some people make a

practice of constantly finding fault with the

governess before the children. Such conduct

is as harmful as it is ill-bred. The authority of

the governess must be upheld in every way by

the parents, who must punish the children for

any serious breach of discipline that is reported

to them.

Having assured themselves o£ the efficiency

and reliability of the lady they have chosen, they

must be content to place their confidence in

her. But they must first take particular care of

assuring themselves of her reliability. A mother

can exercise gentle supervision during the first

week or two of the lessons without in any way

appearing to do so. In this way she will be

able to form a fair judgment in regard to the

character of the governess - whether she is just

and has the power of self-control. If she has

not these qualities, she is unfit to fill the position

she occupies, however great her learning may be.

In most hovises the governess will join in all

the family meals wth the exception of dinner,

wliich she will take by herseK in the school-room

or another sitting-room. She should have her

evenings free as much as possible.

Choice of a School. - When a child is of an a^e

to begin study in real earnest, the question of the

choice of a school should be entered into. The

first point to be considered is whether a boarding-

school or a day-school should be selected. It

may as a rule be said that, in the case of girle

especially, it is better to keep the child at home,

if possible, until the ago of fifteen has passed.

The years between the age of thirteen and fifteen

are usually most critical ones in respect to both

the moral and physical development of boys and

girls. It is during these years that they require

the utmost care, both physically and morally,

and by whom are they likely to be so well guided

in both respects than by their mother. With

boys, however, such a course is not always

possible, more especially if they are to be sent

to some well-known public school situated at

a great distance from homo, or some special

college which hoB an age limit for admission,

such as the Osborne Naval College, where no

student must be over thirteen years of age at

the me of entry.

BOYS' SCHOOLS

Preparatory Schools. - These undertake the

preparation of boys for public schools, eight

THE CHILD

493

being the usual age of admission. The school

selected should preferably be one where day

boarders are received. It is always as well

to be informed as to the conditions ob-

taining at these schools in regard to the eligi-

bility to scholarships for public schools, as in

some cases only those pupils who have been at

least part of the time resident at the preparatory

school are eligible. Special entrance scholar-

ships to the various public schools may be won

at many of these preparatory establishments.

A list of well-known prepai-atory schools may be

found in the Public Schools Year Book (Swan

Sonneschein & Co., 2s. 6d.).

The Public Schools. - In its narrowest sense

the term " Public School " is limited to the great

foundations of Winchester College (founded

1387), Eton College (1440), Rugby School (1587),

and Hnrrow School (1571). But the name is now

popularly t^stended in England to such institu-

tions as are modelled upon one or other of these

historic foundations, and in some cases possess

venerable traditions. They always give a first-

class education, leading on to the great univer-

sities or to " the Services," and are officered by a

staff composed of high university graduates ; and

afford a common life for the pupils and all the

means for the pursuit of athletics, which has

become more and more a passion with the youth

of England. No country in the world has

institutions comparable to the great Public

Schools of Great Britain.

With the exceptions natural to even the best

of human institi^tions, the " pubUc school man "

bears a stamp, moral, i lental and physical, which

is easily recognised.

These schools are usually organised in three

departments : ( 1 ) Classical, preparing for the

universities, certain professions, and higher

branches of the Civil Service ; (2) Modem, pre-

paring for the ai'my, engineering, and the leading

positions in commercial and industrial pursuits ;

and (3) Junior, for the younger boys who have

not yet decided whether to enter the Classical

or the Modern side. The usual age for admission,

except to the Junior School, is twelve, mth

fifteen as the extreme limit ; pupils remain as

a rule till nineteen. Application for admission

has often to be made three or four years or even

longer beforehand. Entrance Scholarships and

Exhibitions are in some cases fairly numerous,

but they are rarely won except by boys who have

attended a preparatory school practically con-

nected with some public school, or who have

worked with a private tutor, whose tuitioix has

been especially directed towards this particular

object.

Grammar Schools. - ^Those with whom means

are an important consideration cannot do

better than send their boys to one of these

schools, where the average fees are much lower

than in the caso of the public schools. In con-

nection with most of these schools there are

numerous entrance scholarships, which cover

the cost of tuition and boolvs, and perhaps part

of the cost of maintenance as well, and not

infrequently there are leaving scholarships to

help the holders to a university or university

college, or to professional education at a

medical school, &c.

Before selecting such a school it is weU worth

inqxiiring what provision there is of leaving

scholarships and exhibitions, and if any parti-

cular career in life is already in view for the

pupil, it should be seen whether the school

makes special provision for such requirements -

whether, for instance, if it is intended to keep

the pupil at school till eighteen or nineteen, the

upper forms of the school are so arranged as to

afford suitable instruction for pupils of that age.

If the top form of a school has an average age

of about sixteen, the school will usually lead

more suitably to ordinary business in the city,

clerkships in banks, or to the lower branches of

the Civil Service - whereas if the average age

of the scholars in the top form is eighteen, the

school will probably give suitable preparation

for the universities and professions, the army,

or the higher branches of the Civil Service.

Private Schools. - Great care and judgment

must be expended upon a selection of a school

of the kind. The qualifications of the head

teacher and staff in the way of university

diplomas, teaching degrees, &c., should be con-

sidered ; it should be seen that the number of

qualified members of the staff is adequate to

the variety of ages and attainments of the

pupils, and that the provision of apparatus, class-

rooms, laboratories, &c., is adequate. Above all,

special inquiry should be made as to the results

of the teacliing when submitted to the test of

public examination.

Of course the scope and aims of private schools

vary widely ; some give an excellent preparation

for the universities ; others for more professional

studies (law, medicine, agricultiu-e, applied

science, &c.) ; others for the Civil Service (first

or second class clerkships, the excise, customs,

post office, &c.) ; the army or the navy, &c., and

these points must be taken into consideration

in selecting such a school.

University Education. - Admission to the uni-

versities cannot be obtained by students under

sixteen years of age. A university training is

of particular use to those who wish to follow

any of the learned professions. It is some-

what costly, however, although, scholarships

and exhibitions are numerous, and form a solu-

tion of the expense difficulty for those who

are fortunate enough to obtain them. But even

though he be the proud winner of a scholarship,

a young man will have to bo of frugal and

economical habits if he hopes to make any head-

way. The great difficulty lies in the fact that

in the leading universities the wealthier classes

predominate, and young men of limited means

494

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

are apt to feel acutely their inability to be " in

the swim." It requires sound common sense,

total absence of pride, an ability to economise,

and, above all, strict attention to work, to make

a university career a success under such con-

ditions.

A fairly well-educated candidate has an

excellent chance of obtaining a scholarship.

Besides university scholarsliips and exhibitions,

most of the public schools have awards at their

disposal to help their pupils to the universities,

whilst public bodies such as the London County

Council are increasingly devoting their funds

to a system of senior scholarships, with a similar

end in view. Tlie city companies also offer

exhibitions to help students at Oxford or

Cambridge.

GIRLS' SCHOOLS

A mother cannot expend too much care upon

the selection of a school for her daughters, both

in regard to the tuition provided and to the

pupils with whom she will have to associate.

This most especially applies to boarding-schools,

for in the case of day-schools a girl remains

under home influence, which is more successful

than anything else in checking the danger to be

derived from unsuitable companions.

Private Schools. - As regards these, what has

been said in the case of boys' schools applies with

even more force to those for girls. Some of

them are excellent, whilst others are unsatis-

factory and even inefficient, and the tests which

have been recommended in connection with the

choosing of private schools for boys should al-

ways be applied. Inquiry should be made to

ascertain that the school is conducted upon

up-to-date methods, and that ample provision

is made for the girls in the way of healthful

exercise, outdoor games, and athletic training.

Also that suitable food is provided. Fees at

private schools vary to a great extent, but it is

by no means the ca.se that the more expensive

schools are superior to the less expensive ones.

It is always better, where possible, to select a

school that has been recommended by friends

who have sent their daughters there, and whose

reliability and good judgment are beyond

dispute.

High Schools. - In most of our towns of any

size there are good high schools for girls which

have been established by public companies, and

are able to offer a good education at a moderate

cost, so that, except in rural districts or the

smaller towns, a parent ought to be able to pro-

cure a good education for girls at a fee of between

ten and twenty guineas per annum, although of

course this figure can bo very easily swelled by

the many " extras " which are so often necessary

in the education of girls. The schools are

"day " schools, but in connectoni with many of

them there are licensed boarding-houses for

boarders. They in most cases provide for girls

an education as thorough as that received by

boys in public schools of the highest class.

Convent Education. - Various Anglican and

Roman Catholic Sisterhoods supply an excellent

education for girls. Mostly there is no question

of creed for admission, nor is religious instruc-

tion given where not desired ; still the religious

atmosphere must have its influence, although

no bias may be intentionally imparted ; on the

other hand, the sisters are mostly ladies, who

devote their lives to the work of education, and

the example of their culture and refinement is

of incalculable value. Education at most of

these establishments is based upon modern

methods, pupils being prepared for the university

locals and other examinations.

Colleges. - There are now colleges for girls

which approach the rank of university institu-

tions. Amongst these may be mentioned

Queen's College, Harley Street, London, W.,

wliich gives a course of instruction to pupils

up to the age of twenty or even higher, with

the intention, not of preparing for particular ex-

aminations, but of fitting pupils for their duties

in society ; the fees are thirty guineas a year

for tuition, with extras ; boarders seventy-five

guineas extra.

The Cheltenham Ladies' College (established

in 1854) gives special preparation for the B.A.

and B.Sc. courses of London University, as well

as for the Cambridge Higher Local and other

advanced examinations, and has highly success-

ful departments in Art, Music, and Gymnastics.

The fees are from twelve to twenty-four guineas

per annum, while there are fourteen boarding-

houses whose fees vary from fifty -four to ninety-

three guineas. Each year there is awarded at

least one scholarship of from £25 to £45 at St.

Hilda's Hall, Oxford, which was originally

founded to receive the elder students of Chelten-

ham College.

University Education. - At Oxford and Cam-

bridge women are examined and classed, but

degrees are not yet granted them. At the other

universities women are admitted to degrees on

the same terms as men almost without excep-

tion : London University led the way in 1878 ;

the Scotch Universities followed suit in 1892 ;

and Durham in 1895. Trinity College, Dublin,

also h£is admitted women on the same terms as

men. The younger universities have through-

out their existence received women ; and the

University of Wales admits them to a share in

the management of the university, exactly as it

does men. In most cases special provision has

been made for the residence of women students,

while usually they have shared the tuition offered

to the men (though sometimes they have their

own lectures, as at Cambridge and Glasgow).

There are fom* halls of residence for women

students at Oxford, i.e. Lady Margaret Hall,

Somerville College, St. Hugh's Hall and St.

THE CHILD

495

Hilda'a Hall. At Cambridge there are two

residential colleges, i.e. Girton and Newnham.

Scholarships and exhibitions are offered each

year in connection with these colleges.

In connection with the London University the

" Schools of the University " for women are

Bedford College, the Royal Holloway College,

and Westfield College.

Coming out of a Daughter. - It is a great event

in the life of a girl when she puts up her hair

for the first time and goes into long frocks ; for

when she does this she has left her childhood for

ever behind her. In most families eighteen is

the accepted age for a girl's introduction into

society - in some cases seventeen years repre-

sents the momentous epoch. The coming out

of a daughter is usually signab'sed by a dance

given by her parents. In higher social circles

it is also marked by her presentation at Court

(see p. 35S).

Very often, however, her debut is made at a

house other than that of her parents, in which

case she should always be under the chaperonage

of her mother or some other relation. The con-

ventional dress for the debutante is nearly always

white, though within the last two years colours

of the lighter and more delicate shades have been

worn upon this occasion. Tradition, however,

dies hard, and white is stiU and ever will be first

favourite in this respect. The dance toilette

with low neck and short sleeves is of course

de rigueur.

Before her daughter's coming out a mother

should be carefril to accustom her to the ways

and manners of society. She should allow her

always to be present at small afternoon parties

and At Homes, and all other functions at which

it is permissible for a girl who is not yet out to

attend. Particular care should be taken to see

that she is quite au fait in the dances of the

season. It must be remembered that a graceful

dancer is an acquisition to any ball-room, whereas

the girl who is gauche in any way will prove

a severe trial to her partner.

The first dance of a debutante will be the fore-

runner of in^'itations to many others. It is

needless to caution a mother that she should

exercise discretion in allowing acceptance of all

of these. In the first place only invitations from

people of whom the parents approve in every

way should be accepted, and in the second place

no girl should be allowed to lavmch at once into

too great a whirligig of parties, balls and dances.

This kind of thing is apt to be overdone during

a girl's first season, and although youth is pro-

verbially energetic, yet there are some girls who

would be unequal to a strain of this kind. The

wise mother will not let her pride in her

daughter's success surmount the important con-

sideration of care for her health, and will

exercise a judicious cutting of the party list

where necessary. (See also Etiquette of Balls

and Dances.)

CHILDREN'S CLOTHING

As compared with the fasluoning of her own

garments, the cutting out and making of chil-

dren's clothes presents a comparatively easy task

for the home worker.

A clever needlewoman can with good patterns

save many a penny spent on her children's cloth-

ing. Material is cheap to buy ; it is the making

that costs so much. Very often, too, larger

garments, provided the material is good and

suitable, can be utilised to make frocks and

coats for the Uttle ones.

Daintiness and simplicity are the chief

qualities which should characterise their cloth-

ing wherever possible. The needlework may be

of the finest, the materials of the best, but any

extreme elaboration in trimming and orna-

mentation should be avoided. Simplicity per-

tains to childhood, and in no respect does this

simplicity shine to greater advantage than in the

matter of dress. The unfortunate befrilled and

beflounced little mites who are continually

dressed up in silks and finery quite unsuitable

for their years and are always " on show," as it

were, miss much of the happiness of childhood.

They are not allowed to romp and play like other

cliildren for fear of spoiling their fine clothes.

Soon they become self-conscious, sometimes even

affected, and as a result develop into miniature

little men and women of the world before they

enter into their teens.

Naturalness and simplicity are the great

charms of childhood, and a mother is a very

poor friend to her child if, however fond and

loving her motives, she gives rein to her maternal

pride by continually decking the Uttle one out

in extravagant clothes, thus installing into the

child's mind an abiiormal sense of the importance

of dress and finery.

Let the Httle one's clothes be always spotlessly

clean, neat and well-fitting, but remember that

the more simply a child is dressed the better

she vfiW look, whilst an over-dressed child will

invariably lay her parents open to the charge

of vulgarity.

Children's clothing must also be of a kind that

will protect them from cold or heat. A wise

mother will see that flannel or wool in some form

or other is worn next the skin. If wooUen com-

binations were worn all the year round there

would be much less chance of the little ones

catching cold. The textiu-e of the garment may

of course be altered to suit the season of the

year, a thinner make of wool being worn in

summer than in winter.

It is also important that the clothing should

be large enough to permit of growth ; there must

be no tightness nor restriction, and at the same

time the garments must not be too large and

bulky. This is sometimes difficult with growing

chilch-en ; they have no sooner been pro\-ided

with a set of clothes than they seem to have

496

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

outgrown them. For this reason it is a mistake

to proNnde large numbers of anything ; rather

give just enough to allow for the necessary

changing and washing, and let the cliild give

them constant wear. This would no doubt

mean frequent renewals, but it will be renewals

in small quantities, and this is much to be pre-

ferred to having to alter garments which have

scarcely been worn, or perhaps discjird them

altogether.

Another mistake made in the dressing of

children is to give them too many different

garments and thus burden their little bodies and

hamper their movements. Rather give a few

and see that the material is of the right warmth,

than pile on a number of unnecessary articles

of clothing.

Three or foiu- complete coverings ought to be

quitљ enough for both girls and boys. With

little boys, for instance, it is a mistake to con-

tinue the petticoat stage, and at eighteen months.

Boy's Tunic.

if they have reached the running-about stage, the

long tunic or smock with the little drawers or

knickers below might well bo started. They

can be made in serge, wincey, delaine, or any

good washing materiaL

Boy's Blouse. - When the little boy is older a

blouse may take the plac^ of the smock. This is

a garment which can very easily be made by

the home worker. Almost any material can be

used for this - serge, cloth, linen, print, drill,

velvet, or silk. Short trousers would complete

the costume, and as a rule these are best made

in the same material as the blouse, except in

tbi case of white silk blouses, which can bo very

well worn with navy blue knickers.

Sleeping Suit. - These should be started with

little boys as soon as good habits have been

formed. In fa^t, they are very often used for

little girla aa well - especially when they are in-

clined to kick off the bed-clothes at m'ght. If

a good pattern is obtained, it is very simple

to make. Viyella, wincey, or fine shirting are the

most suitable materials.

Child's Seaside Overall. - This is one of the

most useful garments designed for the use of the

tiny tots during recent years. It is worn by the

little ones over their dresses when at play, and

forming, as it does, a combination of overdress

and loose knickers, it effectually protects the

Seaside Overall.

frock underneath from all dust and du-t. For

babies who have reached the " crawling about

the floor " stage it is an ideal garment. Galatea,

gingham, and holland are suitable materials for

the making of these overalls.

The Yoke Frock. - Perhaps there is nothing

more serviceable for the little girl of from two

to ten years than the simple yoke frock. Thiu

usually consists of two breadths of material

gathered into a yoke, and as with the exception

of the yoke no fitting is required, a frock of this

kind is an extremely simple one to make.

It is always as well to cut the skirt of the frock

fairly long, in the first instance, maV'ng a

number of hand-sewn tucks above the hem.

This can be let down by degrees as thi child

grows, and a frock of this kind has been known

to last for years. (For Making Tucks, see p. 394. )

Frocks of a more dressy nature for party and

best wear may be made from a simple yoke dress

pattern. If instead of gathering, the skirt is

arranged back and front in a series of vertical

tucks from the yoke to the waist, a pretty little

empire frock can be made. For party wear the

sleeves can be made short and lace insertion

applied in different designs on the yoke and at

the hem, whilst a pretty sash can be tied round

the waist. In fine white cambric or washing

silk a frock of this kind can be made to look

very dainty indeed and fit for any dressy occa-

sion. For a little girl of six, two yards of material

forty-four inches wide will be required.

Embroidery flouncing is much used in the

making of lingerie dresses for the tiny tots.

THE CHILD

497

Yoke frocks made of flouncing should be cut

more in the empire style, that is to say, the entire

artnhole should be cut in the yoke, the flouncing

hanging straight from it without the usual

slightly curved piece under the arm.

The Djibbah. - This is an admirable style of

garment for a little girl, and it is easily cut out

and put together, as the sleeves are made in one

with the rest of the garment and there is only

one seam xinder the arm. It is also very com-

fortable to wear, as it slips over the head and

there is no trouble with buttons or other

fastenings.

It can be made useful for different purposes ;

either it may be worn over a frock as a simple

overall, or, in summer, with a little muslin or

silk top, it will serve as a frock by itself. The

little tops can very often be made from a silk

Djibbah.

or muslin dress which has become too short.

The dress should be cut off at the waist and

fastened on with a draw-string.

Illustration shows a djibbah designed by

Mrs. Drew, 32 Comely Bank, Edinburgh, who

makes a speciality of children's clothing of an

artistic character.

Letting in Insertion. - Open-work insertion is

a favourite ornamentation for the best lingerie

frocks for the little ones ; the insertion should

be added after the frock has been made up, and

evenly laid on as required. To make it open-

work after it has been basted on, take a pair of

scissors and cut the back of the material upon

which the insertion has been laid, being careful

not to cut the latter ; turn back the edges and

hem neatly.

Hem-stitcliing Frocks by Macliine. - Hem-

stitching makes a very dainty finish to little

lingerie frocks, but it is not every mother who

has the time to do this fine work by hand. Very

effective imitation hem-stitching can be done,

however, by machine in this manner : - After

the hem has been turned over, cut it away from

the rest of the skirt about a quarter of an inch

above the place where the stitching of the hem

would come. Then fold up enough blotting-

paper or any other kind of soft paper to the

tliickness of one-eighth of an inch, and insert it

between the edges of the piece cut off and the

lower edge of the skirt from which it has been cut,

which are placed one on the top of the other as in

sewing a seam, and having loosened the tension

of the machine, make a quarter -inch seam,

sewing both through the material and the paper.

When the seam is finished, cut the paper carefully

close to the stitches and pull it out. The upper

edge is folded back, the hem edge folded over,

and the hem is stitched with a row of fine

machine stitching close to the edge. Another

row of fine stitching should be made over the

edge of the upper part.

Shoes and Stockings. - The clotlaing of chil-

dren's feet and legs is a verj' important matter.

Woollen stockings are the best for all ordinary

occasions, and the texture may vary in thick-

ness according to the season of the year. They

must fit well, because if too tight they will cramp

the foot, and if too loose they will be liable to

cause blisters. The practice of putting short

stockings or socks on children is a very risky

one, and the cause of many a dull and serious

illness. It is very necessary to keep the legs

warm, and only in warm weather is it permissible

to leave them bare.

Properly -fitting boots sire also most essential.

It must be remembered that in the child the

bones consist chiefly of gristle, and are easily

put out of shape if under pressure of any kind.

It is always better when it can be managed to

have the boots made to order, but if bought

ready made the greatest care must be taken with

the fitting. They must be neither too large nor

too small, the sole ought to be broad enough for

the expansion of the toes, the heels low and the

toes nicely rounded. Lacing boots are as a rule

bettor than those that button. If the boot is

badly shaped it is not only the foot that suffers,

but the leg and spine as well. Sandals have

been much worn of late years, but those are

only suitable for summer wear.

(For Children's Millinery, see p. 394.)

HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL

Thsre vras a time when English people were content to spend their holidays at home, never stirring

beyond the hmits of their own native town or village. To-day things have changed, and the annual

migration to the country, seaside, or continent is now a typical feature of EngUsh family life. The

progress made in the emancipation of womanhood is also typified by the number of women and

girls who travel alone. It is for the use of those women, and for mothers who have a great deal of

the worry and care attendant upon the organisation of their children's holidays, that the hints given

in this chapter are primarily intended.

THE ANNUAL HOLIDAY

The annual trip to the country or seaside is

the object of much saving and contriving and

endless preparation on the part of both patet

and materfamilias, as weU as much eager

anticipation upon the part of the little ones,

yet how seldom does it turn out to be a complete

success.

To begin with, going away with the children

will not afford materfamilias any appreciable

respite from her daily round of domestic duties ;

very often indeed it will mean added work and

anxiety. Paterfamilias also is apt to be

worried with innumerable little trivialities con-

sequent upon the care and management of a

young family, which takes away a great deal

from the enjoyment to be derived from a respite,

however brief, from the daily business routine.

The conclusion to bo arrived at is obvious.

Since it can never be a complete holiday for

parents to be always with their children, some-

time or other during the year they would do well

to have a short holiday to themselves, away from

their family. If no more than a week can be

managed for this, at any rate let this week be

altogether free from all domestic cares of any

kind. They should never attempt to make a

holiday for themselves out of the children's

holidays, for they will be doomed to disappoint-

ment. Parents may derive pleasure and happi-

ness from the enjoyment of their little ones,

but the very planning of that enjoyroent will

prevent them from having any real rest. They

should make up their minds, therefore, to keep

th ir own holidays entirely distinct from those

of the children if thoy are to derive any real

benefit therefrom. Tlie advisability of the

annual holiday A deixx for parents has been a

groat deal discussed in the columns of our lead-

ing newspapers, many of which have conducted

a lengthy correspondence upon the subject. The

result has always been a concensus of opinion in

its favour. Furthermore, it has also been advo-

cated that pater and materfamilias should spend

a portion of their holidays apart from each other

as well as apart from the children - the wife going

to her friends or relations, the husband spending

it in the pursuit of a favourite pastime, such as

shooting, fishing, golf, &c. There is much to be

said in favour of this arrangement.

When, for instance, a man's ideal holiday con-

sists of either a long cross-country walking tour,

clad in a serviceable suit of tweeds and with no

other luggage than a knapsack on his back - or

else when he thinks nothing is more enjoyable

than to adopt a fisherman's life for the time

being, going out in a saihng boat with a fishing

fleet - in short, when his sole idea of enjoyment

is to " rough " it in every way possible, it stands

to reason that a woman would be out of place

in a holiday of the kind. The sensible mater-

familias will realise this, and will allow her hus-

band to spend at least a week in his own sweet

way. Having done this he will enter with much

more zest into the scheme for the rest of the

holidays.

It heis been suggested that a four weeks' holi-

day should be divided up as follows : -

One week to be spent by husband and wife

separately and apart from their children.

One week to be spent by husband and wife

together.

Two weeks to be spent with the children.

During the fortnight that the parents are

away, the children might be sent to a farm-house

in the country in the charge of a governess or

nurse.

This plan is not, however, always feasible, and

in families where the children go to a boarding-

school the parents will generally find it advisable

to take their holiday during term time.

In other cases people have not the means to

enable them to take separate holidays, the

family vacation of two or three weeks being the

utmost they can af?ord. In these circumstances

HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL

499

more care than ever must be taken in planning

out the holidays that there may be a time of

enjoyment for parents as well as for the children.

If the former make up their minds to spare them-

selves as much worry as possible by careful

organisation and arrangement, and to enter

wholeheartedly into the amusement of their

little ones, much will be done to achieve this

desirable end.

THE CHILDREN'S HOLIDAYS

In planning the hoUdays for the family careful

calculation must be made of the money that can

be spent, allowing ample margin for the hundred

and one little odd expenses that are apt to

crop up when one is away from home. Nothing

mars enjoyment more than the knowledge that

one has miscalculated expenses, and that many

pleasant little excursions have to be denied and

other economies practised as a result.

Great care should be taken in the selection of

both locality and rooms. Where there are chil-

dren, if the seaside is chosen, preference should

be given not to a " show " place, where it seems

to be the sole aim of the visitors to change their

toilettes several times a day and be always on

parade, but to a place where there is a vast

expanse of sandy beach, where the little ones can

dig and build sand castles to their heart's con-

tent. Places on the east coast of England are

generally bracing, whilst south -coast resorts are

warmer and more relaxing, and this fact should

be borne in mind, as very bracing air agrees with

most people, but is too ;trong for some, who are

better in a more relaxing atmosphere.

It is better as a rule to take a good suite of

rooms in preference to a furnished house. In the

latter case the housewife will have more than

the usual worries of house-management, for she

will have the care and worry of looking after

other people's furniture with the responsibiUty

for breakages, a number of which invariably

occur whatever precautions are taken ; and when

the inventory is checked at the expiration of her

tenancy, she may find that she has quite a lot to

pay in this respect.

In some cases, however, the family of little

ones is so largo that it is not always possible to

obtain suitable apartments for their accommo-

dation. In these circumstances it will become

necessary to take a furnished house. Care

should be taken that the latter is as compact as

possible in every way, so that housework is re-

duced to a minimum. It will be necessary in the

case of taking a house to take one's servants

also. It might be possible to allow each of

these, however, a short holiday in turn, if

care is taken in selecting a house that is easily

worked. Sometimes an exchange of houses

may be arranged.

In taking a honse it is as well to avoid one with

very old furniture and fitted carpets, as a house

of this kind will be very difficult to keep clean.

In the case of fitted carpets, it should be insisted

that these are lifted and well beaten and

cleaned, and the floors thoroughly well scrubbed

before taking up the tenancy. (Law in regard to

Furnished Houses, p. 381.)

In selecting rooms it should be ascertained

that they are clean, airy, fight, and well ventilated.

Many people who go to the seaside are apt to

sacrifice one or the other of these important

essentials to health and comfort for the sake of

having their windows looking on to the sea

front. This is a mistake : where large and com-

fortable rooms may be had facing the sea, well

and good, but everything should not be made

subservient to a sea view. Health and comfort

must be considered. Lodging-house keepers as

a general rule trade upon the idiosyncrasy of

holiday-makers to have rooms on the front at

all costs, by asking exorbitant prices for the

smallest apartments which boast so much as a

narrow side-window looking on to the sea.

If better rooms can be found in a road leading

to but not actually on the front, preference

should be given to them. Proximity to the

beach is of course an important consideration

where there are little ones, and if not actually

on the front, the rooms should be chosen as near

to it as possible.

In the better -known and more fashionable

seaside resorts in England £1, Is. a room per week

represents the average charge for August ; in

some places this is the figure for both July and

August, and in others for August and September

in accordance with the months constituting the

" season " at each individual resort.

Boarding-houses are quite unsuitable for

children. In the first place, their presence is

often in a meastire resented by the other guests ;

in the second place, the fare is not always suited

to juvenile needs, and where any exception to

the general rule is made in their favour, the

charges for extras mount up to a remarkable

degree.

When the holidays must of necessity take

place during the busy season, it is essential to

engage the rooms some time beforehand. A

visit of inspection should always be made and

a clear understanding as to terms arrived at.

Be careful to find out what items will fall under

the very elastic term of " extras," which is often

made to apply to a great many other items in

addition to the usual light, &c. It is better,

indeed, to make an arrangement for all charges

to be " inclusive," paying a little more if neces-

sary.

The Country. - A few weeks spent at a farm-

house in some pretty country place forms an

ideal holiday for the children. Here they can

roam about in the fields and woods at will - the

life on a farm is full of interest to them. They

love to help to feed chickens and pigs and other

denizens of the farmyard, and great is the interest

500

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

they take in the daily round of the farmer's work.

Then what pleasant drives may be had through

country lanes in the pony cart or trap, which is

usually to be hired at almost everj- large farm

at a very moderate figure ; and what splendid

picnics may be organised with very little trouble

in the woods and meadows.

Farm-house apartments must be taken before-

hand, as they are very quickly snapped up during

the summer months, ^\^len you have settled

upon one or two likely districts, it is a good

plali to write to the postmaster of the village,

asking him to recommend one or two good farm-

houses where apartments are let. Then upon

the first available day a visit of inspection

should be made. Be careful first of all to see

that the sanitary arrangements are good and up

to date. In many country places, for instance,

it will be foimd that the lavatory is in the

garden. This is an obvious drawback, more

especially in case of illness, and careful inquiry

should be made in regard to this before taking

the rooms. However pretty and picturesque

these may be with their old-time ingle-nooks and

chimney-pieces, if the sanitary arrangements

are not perfect they are best avoided.

There are many advantages wliich a holiday

at a farm-house possesses over one at the seaside.

In the first place, rooms are much cheaper, and

the food is usiially good. Very often no more than

one or two famiUes at most will be taken, and

the farmer's wife will be willing to do the cater-

ing as well as provide lodging at a moderate

inclusive sum per head, consulting always the

tastes of the family and the special needs of the

children. Not having a large number of guests

to cater for as in boarding-houses, the guests are

not restricted to the set menus that form the

order of the day at the latter -named establish-

ments.

Dinner will usually be in the middle of the day

unless a late meal is especially desired, and

the food will be plain, but pure and wholesome

and usually well cooked. Careful inquiries in

regard to the quality of the cooking should be

mskde before hiring the rooms. The reputation

of a bad cook travels fast, and if the post-

master Ls not au fait in regard to the qualifications

of the farmer's wife in this respect, it will be

found that the \-illage shopkeepers will be only

too ready to enlighten the visitors and to recom-

mend some other place, as it is to their interest

v-isitors should make as long a stay as possible

and return again the next year, and this they

certainly will not do if their surroundings are

either uncomfortable or uncongenial. From the

point of view of economy a holiday at a farm-

housefor the children is much to be recommended,

as, apart from the lower charges for board and

lodging, incidental expenses are also very much

less.

General Hints. - The sole secret of making the

children's holiday a success is to see that they

have plenty of occupation. The nature of this

must of course Vary \\-ith the place where the

holiday is spent. The amusements to be had

in the country naturally differ considerably from

those at the seaside. From the point of view

of occupation and amusement, more varied in-

terests as a rule will be found by the sea. Bath-

ing, paddling, boating are all sources of great

delight to the children, and, as a rule, the entire

mornings may be spent on the beach, part of the

time being occupied in bathing or paddling. Iti

regard to the last-named amusement so dear to

the little ones, a mother should be careful to see

that they wear shady hats when paddling and

that their heads are not exposed to the pitilea."

rays of the sun dviring the warmest part of the

daj'. The little legs and feet should also be well

dried with a rough towel when the cliildren

come out of the water. It is a most repre-

hensible habit to allow them to run about with

wet feet and legs to be dried up by the smi for

the mere sake of getting sun -burnt.

The children should be encouraged in following

pet hobbies such as shell and seaweed collect-

ing, photography, &c., and the parents should

show a sympathetic interest in these and be as

helpful as possible in their suggestions. They

may be allowed to have a run on the sands

before breakfast, but bathing should not be

indulged in before the early morning meal.

Tlicy should never be allowed to remain more

than from five to ten minutes in the water.

Dinner should always be in the middle of the

day, and half-an-hour's rest should bo taken after

this midday meal. Then the little ones will be

ready for a walk, a drive, or any little excur-

sion that may have been planned. For wet

afternoons and evenings, good games should be

organised in wliich both grown-ups and little

ones take part.

If the children are kept thoroughly occupied

in this manner during the whole of the vacation,

the time will pass pleasantly and hapi;ily - if

not, the holidays are apt to drag painfully for

both children and parents. It must be remem-

bered also that in this variable climate of ours

wet weather during the holidays is a factor which

has constantly to be reckoned with, hence it

behoves parents to go to the seaside prepared

for eventualities of the kind, planning out a

complete scheme of amusement for the wet as

well as for the fine days.

THE WOMAN WORKER S HOLIDAY

Those who are working all the year round,

whether it be at teaching, in an office, or in any

other of the callings now open to women, will

require to get the utmost out of the short respite

afforded by the holidays from the routine of

their workaday life. The holidays should be

looked upon by them as a real rest and period of

recuperation, during which they can lay in a

HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL

501

fresh store of health and strength for their next

year of work.

One word of warning in this respect. People

who habitually lead sedentary lives must not

rush all at once to the opposite extreme during

vacation time. Walking fifteen to twenty miles

a day, for instance, when one is unaccustomed to

such exercise, can only mean a heavy strain upon

the strength and do more harm than good.

Rushing about from one place to another in the

effort to cram all the sightseeing possible into a

week or two weeks is also harmful. It is wiser

to take things easily at first, taking the first two

days to acclimatise oneself to one's surroundings,

and increasing gradually the measure of exercise

taken as the time goes on. The woman who has

only a week or a fortnight's hoUday will find it

harder to keep to tins rule than the woman who

has from a month to six weeks, but she should

keep to it as far as possible.

When a tour through any part of the country

is arranged it should be done by easy stages,

overtiring of any kind being avoided. Women

nowadays show a tendency to nxsh away to

crowded resorts where prices are high, and

neglect the many beautiful little spots with

which our country abounds, notably in Devon,

Cornwall, and Wales, where it is possible to spend

the vacation in the pleasantest manner with the

minimum amount of outlay. The one thing that

deters people from exploring regions to them

unknown lies in the fact that their ignorance

of the place involves also ignorance of the

nature of accommodation to be found there in

the way of board anc^ lodging, and as both good

housing and wholesome food are indispensable

in ensuring the success of a holiday, they prefer

returning year after year to the same spot than

to embark as it were upon a voyage of discovery.

For those so situated, the booklet " Holiday

Resorts," published by the Teachers' Guild of

Great Britain and Ireland, will be found very

useful. It contains a long Ust of recommended

addresses throughout the United Kingdom and

abroad, wliich has been specially compiled for

the use of teachers on their holidays.

Boarding-Houses. - In England the " pension "

or boarding-house system has greatly developed

during recent years. Boarding-house life is

both suitable and enjoyable if proper caro is

employed in the judicious selection of an estab-

lishment. As a general rule, it is inadvisable to

take rooms in a house that has not been recom-

mended by some friend, although some people

are remarkably quick at forming judgment upon

inspection as to whether a particular place will

suit them or not. It must be remembered that

at most frequented resorts during the busy

season it will be practically impossible to engage

a room at a boarding-house for a day to see if it

will suit ; it will be necessary to take it for a

week at least, ind a week of discomfort will prove

BO much time of the holiday practically wasted

for all the good it will do. Another thing to

bear in mind is - do not go to a fashionable sea-

side resort in August under the impression that

you will get good board and a comfortable room

at 303. a week. Augiist is essentially a month

of inflated prices, when boarding-house keepers

reap their harvest. All accommodation ofltered

under two guineas a week will as a rule turn

out to be poor, the latter sum representing the

minimum charge during the season of all reliable

establishments. Of course, this does not apply

to the less fashionable resorts or places which do

not boast of piers, bands, concerts, and the other

manifold attractions of the up-to-date seaside

towns, but in even the smaller seaside resorts

prices in August are higher than at any other

time.

THE COUNTRY COTTAGE

In several of our country villages pretty little

cottages may be f o\ind in many cases at as low

rentals as £12 a year. With many the country

cottage has formed the solution of the holiday

problem, not only for the summer vacation, but

for week-ends throughout the year. A little

place of the kind is kept up at very little

expense. A woman or a man and wife can

often be found to look after it and keep it

in order in retiirn for ha\'ing the use of it

rent free when the owners are not in occupa-

tion. The furniture reqiiired is of the simplest

and need represent very little outlay. Many

people who have tried the experiment claim

that, in spite of money spent in rent, up-

keep, &c., the possession of a cottage of this

kind enables them to have much longer and more

frequent hohdays and at a lower cost than in

any other circmnstances.

THE HOLIDAY ABROAD

In these days of facilities for cheap and easy

travel and of tourist agents who conduct care-

fully-planned-out tours abroad at a minimum

of expense, the proportion of English people who

spend their annual holiday upon the continent

is decidedly on the increase. The advantages

of such a holiday are manifold. To begin with,

the average English woman who never stirs

beyond the limits of her own native shores is

apt to become too insular and narrow-minded

in her ideas. There is nothing that has a more

educating effect than traveUing in foreign

countries and mixing with people of other

nationahties, nor is there anything more cal-

culated to broaden our outlook upon things.

The continental holiday nowadays is even

within reach of the business woman who earns

no more than 30s. to £2 a week salary. What

more pleasant change can she derive than by

spending a week or a fortnight in Belgium, the

most accessible country for people of limited

means. It will cost her little more than a holi-

602

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

day spent at a seaside resort at home, where

£2, 2s. is tlie minimum season cliarge for board

and lodging, to say notliing of railway fares and

other incidental expenses.

Unfortunately there are many English women

who never sliow to advantage when travelling

in other coimtries. They toil to adapt them-

selves to their surroundings, not being able to

realise the fact that, though many of the customs

of the foreigners are different from ours, yet they

have a perfect right to practise them in their

own covmtry, and that it is the stranger who

must conform with the customs of the country

in wliich she is a visitor. The truth of the saying

" In Rome one must do as Romans do " has yet

to be realised by many an English woman who,

when travelling; has the knack of leaving her

good manners behind her. In this respect she

does not err in so marked a manner as English-

men abroad, whose aggressive personality, loud

voice and manner, and still louder dress were

at one time so much held up to ridicule by the

French caricaturist. It must be admitted, how-

ever, that this type of John Bull has become

greatly modified during recent years, though a

want of adaptability to their surroundings is

still to be noted amongst a large proportion

of English tourists.

The traveller should begin by reconciling her-

self to the fact that it is impossible for her to

have everytliing as she has it at home, and she

must make up her mind to conform for the tinie

being with other tastes and other methods of

living. The cooking at foreign hotels and

pensions, for instance, will seemi strange at first ;

but though it is different from what she has

been used to, it is nearly always very good, and

she should not spoil her pleasure and that of

others by grumbUng at it and wishing for some

English dish not on the menu. A gentlewoman,

it is true, would not be likely to err in this

respect, and a gentlewoman at home will almost

invariably be a gentlewoman abroad, but there

is no denying the fact that many women show

a peculiar aggressiveness and intolerance when

travelling which they rarely display when at

home, ilany women also when out of their own

country seem to develop an eccentricity in dress

as marked as it is unusual, for at home their

toilettes will bo irreproachable on all occasions.

Here, again, ia an anomaly which; however inex-

plicable, is nevertheless existent, there being a

number of sinners in this respect.

A woman should always bear in mind that

a large number of foreigners never have an

opportunity of visiting our mother country,

hence the sole idea they have in regard to the

character and appearance of English people

must necessarily bo gathered from their observa-

tion of the manners and habits of the English

tourists and travellers they occasionally come

across ; and it stands to reason if English tra-

vellers are constantly offending against good

manners and good taste, the impression formed

of the EngUsh in general will be a very erroneous

one. Travellers should always bear this fact

in mind, and by being as circumspect in their

behaviour and - as far as the exigencies of

travelling allow - as careful in their dress as

when at home, they can do much to remove the

bad impression made by the agressive type of

Britisher who so often frequents the continent,

and does his best to earn for English people

generally an unmerited measiu'e of disappro-

bation.

Dress. - The traveller should endeavour to be

neat and well groomed on all occasions. For an

itinerary toiu" her dress will have to be strictly

limited to what is most useful. A neat serge

or tweed coat-and-skirt costume for travelling

is the first essential. With this a becoming

small hat and a trim blouse should be worn.

Boots should be clean and well polished and

gloves neat and tidy. Plenty of lingerie blouses,

an extra pair of boots, a pair of indoor shoes, the

necessary underlinen and a dressing-gown should

be packed away in the suit -case, and for evenings

at the hotel or pension one of those dainty little

crepe de chine or voile princess dresses which

would seem to have been designed mainly with

the needs of the traveller in view, so little room

do they take up. A dress of this kind may be

rolled up tightly without becoming creased in

any way if care is taken first to adjast the folds.

The boots should have good thick soles, as there

is nothing more tiring than constant walking

about in thin shoes. Strong comfortable boots

are especially essential for walking tours, and,

needless to say, short skirts should be worn.

When making a stay at a fashionable resort,

such as Ostend or Trouvillo, one will reqviire to

be smartly dressed, and an ample supply of

frocks for all occasions will be necessary.

It is always advisable when travelling abroad

to be prepared for great differences of tempera-

ture within a comparatively small area. A

change of winter underclothing and a warm coat

are often very welcome even during the sammer

months.

Combined Coupon Tickets. - By means of the

" Rundreise " or combined ticket system, the

tourist may effect a reduction of from 20 to 30

per cent, on her fares. This system prevails in

Belgium, Holland, Germany, Austria, the Balkan

States, Turkey, Switzerland, Denmark, Norway,

Sweden, Franco, Italy, and Sicily, and full

particulars in regard to it may be obtained from

any of Messrs. Cook's offices, or from the offices

of the Belgian State Railways, 53 Gracechurch

Street, London, E.G. These tickets give the

passenger the right to stop not only at the

principal stations on many lines of the countries

through which she is travelling, but at any out-

of-the-way place. In the latter case it is usually

necessary to get the coupon for that section

stamped by the stationmaster immediately

HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL

503

after leaving the train. In Switzerland and

Germany, however, the passenger is allowed to

break the journey at any place without this

formality. She has perfect freedom in planning

out her own itinerary, subject to certain regula-

tions in regard to time and distances. Only

hand luggage is allowed free to travellers using

Rundreise tickets.

Season Tickets available for five and fifteen

days, which enable the holder to travel as often

as she hkes all over Belgium in every direction

on all the Belgian railway lines (2890 miles in

extent) are issued in England at the Belgian Mail

Packet Booking Office, 53 Gracechurch Street,

72 Regent Street, London, and at all Belgian

stations at 11*75 francs (9s. 5d. =$2'35) 3rd class,

20-50 francs (16s. 5d.=$4-10) 2nd class; 30-75

francs (24s. 7d. = $6-15) 1st class, compartment

reserved or saloon cars.

An unmounted photograph of the holder,

measuring one and a half inches square, must

be suppUed to be affixed to the ticket. About

a quarter of an hour's notice should be given

to obtain the season tickets.

Similar season tickets available fifteen days

are issued at double the above prices.

In Switzierland season tickets are issued which

are available over most of the principal railways ;

they do not, however, include all the mountain

railways, although in some cases reductions are

allowed on the latter to holders of these tickets.

They may be obtained in London from the

General Agent of the Swiss Federal Railways,

11b Regent Street, from the L.B. & S.C.

Railway Continontt.' Traffic Manager's Office,

London Bridge, and the Great Eastern Railway

Continental Traffic Manager's Office, Liverpool

Street. The fare for fifteen days is £3, 8s. 1st

class, £2, 8s. 2nd class, and £1, 16s. 3rd class.

The Swiss Federal Railways also give a list of

local diligence rates over the passes, and of

addresses of the best hotels.

Hotels and Pensions. - It is always better to

go to an hotel or pension which has been recom-

mended by friends upon whose judgment you

may rely. Failing this the traveller cannot do

better than expend a shilling upon the little

book " Holiday Resorts," already mentioned.

This contains extensive lists of recommended

addresses of good hotels and pensions with

moderate tariffs in most places abroad, and

should therefore be a great help to the woman

whose expenses must be carefully weighed and

considered.

In the season at fashionable resorts both

hotels and pensions are subject to inflated

prices, the latter being always cheaper than the

former. It is always better to engage rooms

beforehand, and in much frequented places it

is as well to order by wire the daj' before, pre-

paying for a reply as to whether the rooms have

been reserved.

When making a stay of a week or more at an

hotel an arrangement for inclusive " pension "

terms should be made if possible. In most Swiss

hotels " pension " terms can be arranged for

three or four days. When not on " pension

terms," ask for the bill every few days and care-

fully check it. It is always better, if leaving in

the morning, to ask for the bill the eve of your

departure, so that you have time to see if the

charges are correct. Tips, as a general rule,

should not amount to more than 10 per cent, of

the bill for a week's stay at an hotel, being dis-

tributed amongst the chambermaid, concierge,

head waiter, boots, and any one who renders

special service. For a long visit the percentage

would of course be considerably lower. Not

less than one franc to each servant is given for a

short stay.

Tips after long Sea Voyages. - For tips after

long sea voyages, gold for the table steward

and the stewardess is de rigueur. After a

voyage to America or Canada, 10s. at least should

be given to each. For very long voyages, as to

Australia, double the amoxint should be given-

Smaller tips are given to any other of the ser-

vants on board who render special service.

General Hints. - Travellers on the continent

should have at least a sUght practical knowledge

of the language of the country which they visit,

for although Enghsh is spoken and understood

at the chief hotels and pensions and the larger

shops of the principal towns and resorts on the

continenc, porters and cabdrivers show a decided

inclination at times to double their fares for the

benefit of those who show that they are unable

either to understand what is said to them

or make themselves understood. Baedeker's

manual of conversation will be found useful in

assisting the traveller to at least make her wants

known in an intelUgible manner. Failing tliis,

she should have some other handy Uttle guide

to conversation to which she can refer. Tlie

Baedeker Guide Books tc travelhng on the

continent are also of inestimable use to the

traveller who is planning out her own tour.

It is always better, however, when going abroad

for the first time, if totally ignorant of foreign

languages and if unaccompanied by an experi-

enced traveller, to join one of the tours con-

ducted by Cook's or any other tourist agency.

Not only are the whole tours carefully organ-

ised and planned out by experts, the tourist

being saved worry of any kind, but they are con-

ducted at the minimum of expense, the charges

including board and lodging as well as fare.

Particulars of tours can be obtained from any

of Messrs. Cook's offices, and from Dr. Henry

S. Lunn, 5 Endsleigh Gardens, London, N.W.,

Messrs. Dean & Dawson, 17 St. Paul's Church-

yard, London, E.C., and other tourist agents.

(For Luggage Abroad, see p. 505.)

Money. - Tlie traveller abroad should make

herself acquainted witli the coinage of the

country which slie is \-isiting. English money

504

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

can be usually changed by the purser on the

steamer by which she is crossing. It is not

advisable, however, to change too much money,

because in most places English gold is readily

accepted, the change (if any) being given in the

foreign currency. It is only with the small coin

that difficulty will bo experienced. The woman,

for instance, who L'i taking a short trip in France

or Belgium with £10 for expenses will only require

to change £1 of this into small French money

for the needs of the journey, tips to porters,

cab fares, &c. For the rest she can obtain

change as she requires it at either her hotel or

pension or at any shop where she wishes to effect

a purchase. She should be careful to ascertain,

however, that the change is correct. The change

in French money for £1, for instance, would

be 25 and not 20 francs, and sometimes advan-

tage is taken of the ignorant in this respect (see

Foreign Money Rates). For wealthy people

who allow themselves unUmited money during

their holidays, the Circular Note System is of

the utmost convenience (see p. 368).

Foreign Travel as an Educator. - Besides the

general broadening of the rriental horizon,

foreign travel offers a pleasant and rapid method

of acquiring a knowledge of other tongues,

especially if a lengthened stay can be made.

This is now so generally recognised by parents

that many send their children abroad for the

latter years of school life. Within the last few

years large numbers of boys and girls have been

sent to families abroad, their parents in England

receiving in exchange a child to be taught

English. This custom has become so popular

that an agency has been opened in Paris to

negotiate suitable exchanges. All the necessary

information in regard to this may be obtained

from Monsieur Toni Matthieu, Echange Inter-

nationale, 36 Boulevard Majenta, Paris.

In addition to this, travelling scholarships

are offered by various educational bodies which

entitle the holder to a sum of money to be spent

on a visit abroad. The advantages of their

studying a foreign language are obvious. Not

only does this system offer opportunities for

acquiring a good accent and ease of expression,

but the more intimate and personal knowl'-dge

gained by admission into a cultured house open

to the student the doors of acquaintance with

the true spirit of the language and its literature.

Should the parents not be able to take their

children, or should no suitable escort be found,

they may safely be sent alone if notice is given

to one of the societies formed for helping and

pre *yecting young travellers. These societies have

a very complete organisation throughout Europe,

and can arrange for the traveller to be met at the

different points and placed in the right train to

continue her Journey, met at the final destina-

tion, and seen into safe hands. The service is

generally rendered gratuitously, and is absolutely

without distinction of class, creed or nationality.

Among such societies may be mentioned the

pioneer of the movement. Lea Amies de la

Jeune Fille. Similar work is also done by

the Catholic International Association for

tlie Protection of Girls, the " Station Work "

department of the National Vigilance Associa-

tion and Guild of Service for Women, and

the Jewish Association of Protection. All these

work in harmony, and particulars can be obtained

on application to The Secretary, National

Vigilance Association, St. Mary's Chambers,

161a Strand, London.

LUGGAGE

What luggage to take and what not to take

always forms a vexed question with the

holiday-maker. The great maxim to be ob-

served is to take only as much as is absolutely

necessary, but individual needs vary so largely

that this maxim is capable of a somewhat

elastic interpretation. We often read in the

papers of some enterprising American lady who

has travelled round the world with no more

extensive wardrobe than the tweed dress she

was wearing and a small handbag containing

linen and toilet accessories. Though we may

wonder at and even admire her enterprise, few

of us would be tempted to go and do likewise.

An English woman when travelling always likes

to feel fresh and natty, and this cannot be

accomplished unless she has garments with her

suitable for all occasions.

It is in the quality of her luggage more often

than in its quantity that a woman is apt to err.

Many will travel with a trunk so heavy and un-

wieldy as to be a positive nuisance, and not all

the grumbling of porters and cabmen, nor the

damage done to walls in carrying the box up and

down stairs, will make them see the error of their

ways. Then, again, some women are never happy

unless, in addition to their ordinary luggage, they

are encumbered with a number of cardboard

hat-boxes, paper parcels, string bags, and other

paraphernaUa, some portion or other of which

they invariabty manage to lose.

With proper luggage there is no need to put up

with the nuisance of worrying about the safety

of innumerable small packages. Modern luggage

is specially constructed with regard to con-

venience, and the old - fashioned trunk which,

in spite of its unwieldiness, was remarkable for

its lack of efficient accommodation for clothes

and hats, is happily a thing of the past.

The up-to-date trunk is light and compact.

In the better kinds a number of adjustable little

compartments are to be found in the upper tray,

with grooves which enable the packer to make

the divisions larger or smaller as required. Flat

trunks may be obtained which hold dresses full

length, but which are so light that their size

does not form any drawback. These are speci-

ally suitable for long voyages. On the latter

HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL

505

it should always be remembered to have a flat

cabin trunk containing the clothing and every-

thing needed on board ship. This can easily be

kept in the cabin, whilst all the other luggage

must be stored in the hold. Care must be taken

that the cabin trunk holds everything that is

Ukely to be needed, and the traveller, before

packing; should make a careful list of her require-

ments, seeing that each article on the list is placed

in her trunk. On the whole the flat trunks are

always more convenient than the dome-shaped

boxes for any kind of traveUingj as they can

easily be put out of the way under a bed if need

be when in rooms or hotels.

Neat leather or canvas hat-boxes may now be

obtained fitted with cushions at the top, bottom,

and sides upon which to pin the hats. There

is little fear of millinery becoming spoiled or

crushed when packed in one of these, and the

woman who hkes to have plenty of variety in

her headgear should never travel without one.

For a fortnight's trip a roomy dress-basket and

a hat-box will be aU the luggage needed. Dress-

ing-cases are also very useful in travelling, but it

is not every woman who is fortunate enough to

possess one.

When travelling with a large family of chil-

dren the naaximi " as Uttle luggage as possible "

will not apply. There are so many things neces-

sary for the comfort of the youngsters - special

cooking appliances, occasionally a special bed

or cot, perambulators, mailcarts, and other imi-

portant essentials. As, however, the cliildren's

holiday is rarely a migratory tour, but merely

a certain number of we.ks' sojoiorn at one place,

the amount of luggage necessary should not

form a great drawback. In these days of

cheap " luggage in advance " rates much of the

expenditure upon cabs may be curtailed, or a

family omnibus may be hired from home to the

station at a comparatively small cost, wliilst

at most seaside places outside porters deliver

the luggage from the station to one's rooms at

a small charge per package. In regard to the

children's luggage it is more than ever essential

to draw up a list of all the articles that will be

required, and to take care when paeldng that

nothing is forgotten.

Luggage on the Continent. - In the case of

travelling on the continent, it is a mistake to

carry an amount of hand luggage. This is

always a nuisance. In the fii-st place, it is sub-

ject to rigorous inspection by the Customs upon

arrival, and the contents are apt to be well

tumbled about during the process of inspec-

tion, more especially when, as is usually the case,

there are hundreds of people awaiting their turn

for their baggage to bo examined. The same

applies to landing in England from the continent

- ^too much luggage should certainly be avoided ;

it is best to limit the baggage to one fair-sized

yet very light trunk which oan be registered

through to its destination. There is, indeed, a

great advantage in the continental system of

registration, for once the traveller has taken her

registration receipt she will not need to worrj'

about her baggage beyond claiming it at the

" Customs," being present when it is examined.

It may be further remarked that the Customs

examination in many countries on the continent

is very lenient where registered luggage is con-

cerned. In most cases the mere formality of

opening the box is proceeded with, the traveller

being asked if she has anything to declare - the

box being closed again when she repHes in the

negative.

The dutiable articles in most places on the

continent are tobacco, tea, spirits, soap, new

clothes, confectionery, lace. A passenger's

allowance of very small quantities of dutiable

articles, however, is made in most cases. The

registration of luggage may be effected on most

of the railway systems throughout the different

countries.

The maxim " no hand baggage " cannot be

applied, however, to all circumstances. In

regard to itinerary tours which comprise constant

railway travelling from one place to another

with "Rundreise '' tickets (see p. 502), or in

countries where no free allowance of luggage

is made upon the railwaj'^s, it is wiser to have

only luggage which may be taken in the railway

carriage, as this, of course, is free. This might

consist of a flat suit -case wliich can easily be put

away under the seat and a Ught hat-box. A

heterogeneous collection of small parcels should

always be avoided.

Luggage may be sent in advance from England

to places where it is intended to make a long

stay by means of the Continental Daily Parcels'

Express, who have their offices at 53 Grace-

chiu-ch Street, London, E.C.. 72 Regent Street,

London, W., and at Dover. Tliis company under-

takes the forwarding of passengers' luggage to

any part of the continent by " Grande Vitesse,"

or mail service, at very moderate charges. A

large number of tourists will find it a convenience

to send their heavier luggage in advance in this

way.

Wlien the summer holiday is to be spent in

such pastimes as mountaineering, walking tours,

in countries like Switzerland, the tourist will

have to rely upon the ever -useful knapsack for

immediate requirements, sending on her luggage

in advance to each place at which she is to find

a pied-d-terre. Tlie needs of travellers in this

respect are met in Switzerland by the system

of posting unaccompanied luggage. Not more

than 44 libs, can be sent, and the charge is 7d. per

22 lbs. On the mountain routes the travelling

is made by means of " diligences " (coaches).

In connection with these, 33 lbs. of free luggage

is allowed and 22 lbs. on the passes.

In regard to bicycles a deposit of from five per

cent, and upwards is in many cases levied upon

cycles taken into a country, the deposit being

50G

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

returnable when the passenger leaves. It is

important, therefore, that she keep her receipt

carefully, for she must produce tliis before the

deposit is returned. In France a permit for

three months must bo obtained. Tliis will cost

three francs, but if a longer stay is made the

cycle tax of six francs will have to be paid. On

most railways throughout the continent cycles

are charged as ordinary luggage.

Packing a Trunk. - There is an art in packing

a trunk which comparatively few women have

meistored. This art may be defined as the

ability to pack the largest number of articles

without creasing or spoiling them in any way

within the leeist possible compass. A good

packer will manage to pack away in one trunk

the same quantity of clothing that an indifferent

packer would find it difficult to get into two.

The first important thing to remember is

that all heavy articles, such as boots, shoes,

books, &c., should be placed at the bottom of

the box. They should be packed quite tightly

together, and any empty corners filled up with

stockings and other small woollen articles.

Sponge-bags and toilet accessories should be

also placed in the bottom layer if there is no

separate dressing-bag for these.

When the bottom of the trunk has been packed

quite neatly and tidily, forming as flat a layer as

possible, the underlinen, neatly folded, should be

placed over it to form the next layer. Over

this should be placed coat -and -skirt costumesand

dresses. They should be folded very carefully,

with sheets of tissue paper between the folds, and

rolls of tissue paper should also be inserted

in the sleeves. At the top of the trunk should

be placed the light silk dresses and blouses

and evening gowns. These should be carefully

folded and the sleeves stuffed with tissue paper.

Hats should always be packed in a separate box

if possible. It is impossible to pack millinery

properly in an ordinary trunk, and indeed the

headgear of the present-day faishionable dimen-

sions can rarely be made to repose in safety on

the upper tray of even a fair-sized dress-basket.

One or two small or moderate -sized hats may,

however, be placed on the top of the latter

if needs must, but they should be carefully

pinned with hat-pins to the canvas of the tray,

and any bows or similar trimmings should be

stuffed out with tissue paper to prevent them

becoming crushed.

Hand-niirrors will seldom get smashed if

placed within the folds of woollen garments.

The same applies to any breakable articles.

Bottles containing liquid of any kind should bo

avoided if possible when travelling, but if it is

necessary that these be taken, they should be

well rolled up in cotton wool and afterwards

packed in neat little paper parcels. One or two

extra waterproof sponge-bags into which they

can be placed will also be found useful. These

bottles should not be placed near any of the

better articles of clothing in case of accident,

although, if carefully packed, breakages seldom

occur. Before packing care should be taken to

see that all stoppers are firmly screwed down and

that the bottles axe tightly corked, for should

the cork or stopper come out, a certain amount

of damage to clothing must inevitably result in

spite of all precautions in the way of cotton-

wool wrappings. It is always as well to place

the bottles within the folds of an old dark

dressing-gown, and as near the bottom of the

box as possible.

Veils, gloves, lace scarves, all should come upon

the top tray of the trunk. Neat Uttle satin or

silk sachets with the name of the contents em-

broidered thereon are the handiest receptacles

for these.

When packed, the trunk should be well locked

and strapped. Either hanging or adhesive

labels should be used, and on them the address

should be clearly written. Care should be taken

to pull off all old labels, as when these are

allowed to remain in any numbers they are

liable to caiise confusion, especially when

travelling on the continent. It is a good plan

to have two labels. The porters have enonnous

quantities of luggage to deal with in a given

time, and the labels often suffer from rough

handling.

When packing for a trip on the continent it

will be found necessary to include many small

articles which would not be necessary when

travelling at home. A spirit-lamp and kettle

will be found most useful. In somo pensions

a sufficient supply of hot water may not always

be available for washing purposes, though of

course this does not apply to the large hotels.

Then, again, one often likes to indulge in the "cup

that cheers " either en route on the train

journeys between various places, or in the early

morning. Care must be taken, however, not

to take more than the small quantity allowed

by the Customs Regulations of the different

countries. Soap, candles, matches, tapes, but-

tons, scissors, shoe-laces, ssifcty-pins, needles,

and cotton all should be available - to say

nothing of the ever -useful corkscrew. If one is

accustomed to use special toilet preparations in

the way of face powders, &c., a supply of these

should also be included. It is a mistake, however,

to take a number of articles if you are going to a

place where they can easily be proctired, and at

which you intend to make a more or less pro-

longed stay. It is for the itinerary tour in

particular that strict attention in regard to all

the little accessories that make for comfort is

needed.

HOME PETS

There is scarcely a British home, from the mansion of the rich to the cottage of the poor, wliich

does not boast of some pet, if it be only the humble domestic cat. The care of pets is a problem,

therefore, which must present itself sooner or later to the average housewife. Dumb animals are

often sadly neglected, not always wilUngly it is true, but most often from sheer ignorance of the

best way to treat them both in illness and in health. The following notes upon the characteristics

of our household pets with directions in regard to their diet and general hygiene, together with hints

as to the best methods of treating the common ailments to which they are subject, are intended to

give practical guidance to the housewife in all the most important problems in regard to the care

and mauagement of her pets with which from time to time she may be called upon to deal.

DOGS

The dog is the most companionable as well as

the most faithful of our pets, and, properly

trained, he may also become a most useful

member of the household.

In purchasing a dog it should be remembered

that some breeds are eminently suited for a

hardy outdoor life, and for tliis reason would

not thrive as household dogs in a town ; on the

other hand, others make admirable indoor pets,

provided of course that they have a certain

amount of good daily exercise out of doors.

" Lap dogs " - a design .tion wliich include all

the tiny breeds of dogs which form ladies' pots

- do not require so much exercise, although they

are all the better for it.

Guard Dogs. - Some dogs are especially noted

for their qualities as guardians of their master's

house and property. Chief amongst these are

the Mastiff, Bulldog, Great Dane, Retriever, New-

foundland, and Airedale Terrier. The Mastiff,

Great Dane, and Newfoundland are best kept

out of doors on account of their size, and for

this reason are more suitable for country than

for town life. The Bulldog makes a very good

indoor dog. Of the smaller dogs. Fox Terriers,

Irish Terriers, Skye Terriers, and Bull Terriers

make splendid guard dogs.

Companionable Dogs. - The St. Bernard is a

most faitMul companion and very gentle with

children. By reason of his size this dog should

also be kept out of doors. The Collie is most

companionable and sagacious. To keep in

"health it requires a very large amount of exercise,

.tnd is therefore best kept in the country. The

Newfoundland is also companionable and fond

of children. Deerhounds, Bloodhounds, Setters,

Sheep Dogs are also faitliful companions. They

are best suited to an outdoor life.

Dogs to keep Indoors in Town. - In choosing

a house dog for town it should be remembered

that the small short-haired varieties are best

on account of the less trouble entailed in keeping

them clean. Long-haired dogs bring in mud

from the street on their coats, and will often roll

on the carpets and furniture in their attempt

to get rid of it. Few people will take the trouble

to brush the dog as he comes in from liis walk,

j^et this should always be done if he has been in

muddy or dusty roads.

The most useful dog for indoor town-life is

undoubtedly the Fox Terrier. Sagacious, easily

taught, faithfxil and companionable, he makes

as a rule a good watch-dog, and liis short coat is

easily kept clean. Tlie Irish Terrier is also a

most useful dog for town, although he requires

careful training on account of his fighting

propensities. As has been said before, the Bull-

dog makes a very good indoor dog and guardian

of the house. Skye Terriers and Aberdeen

Terriers make capital Uttle house dogs, only the

coat of a Skyo Terrier is rather a drawback as it

requires very careful attention in regard to brush-

ing, combing, and grooming generally. The

Basset Hounds and Dachshimda are also excel-

lent little indoor doga. Spaniels are generally

all-round useful dogs, and the Poodle is one of

the most sagacious and teachable of our peta.

Pet Dogs. - Pugs, Pekingese, Pomeranians,

Griffins, Yorkshire Terriers, King Charles

Spaniels, Italian Greyhounds, Maltese Terriers

are the principal dogs which rank as ladies' pets.

These as a rule are pampered httle individuals,

accompanying their mistress in her drives and

reclining on silken cushions in her boudoir and

drawing-room, yet when properly trained and

not allowed to become fractious and snappy

(a result as a rule of over-feeding) they make

charming little companions, with the most

ingratiating ways.

Management of Dogs. - It must be remembered

that the good qualities of a dog are enhanced by

careful training and liis faults cured in the same

507

508

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

way. It is always better for this reason to rear

our peta from puppyhood if we would obtain the

most satisfactory results.

Strict cleanliness and judicious feeding are

the two great essentials in the management of

dogs. Dogs kppt in the house should be wsished

once a fortnight if possible in summer, and once a

month in winter. Outdoor dogs do not require

such frequent washing. Plenty of warm water

and good carbolic soap should be used when

bathing a dog ; the animal should be well im-

mersed and the soap well rubbed over his coat,

thoroughly rinsed off, and, last but not least, he

should be well dried. All dogs should be care-

fully groomed daily. This is most essential with

the long-haired varieties, such as Collies, Skye

Terriers, &c. For these a strong broad-toothed

dog-comb should be used as well as a brush.

Dog-Comb.

Dog- Brush.

Regular and careful grooming often docs awaj'

with the necessity of such frequent bathing as

would otherwise be needed.

Vermin. - If cleanliness in the way of washing

and grooming is not strictly attended to, the

anirnal will often be pestered with vermin as a

result. Carbolic soap should be used in washing

dogs which are afflicted in this manner. In very

bad oases the dog should be rubbed all over with

oil a few hours before the tub is given. This

should be allowed to remain on until washed off

in the tub.

The Kennel. - When a dog is kept in a kennel,

he should Ix^ given fresh straw every week, and

this straw should be shaken and turned over

Dog-Eennel.

every day and all soiled straw removed. In

summer a piece of matting can be used instead

of straw. Do not keep him chained up for a

long time at a stretch if it can possibly be avoided.

A dog should always have plenty of exercise ;

besides, the kennel will soon get foul if he is

chained up all day.

Needless to say, the kennel must be kept

clean, being washed out at frequent intervals.

A dog-kennel should always bo as roomy as

possible, and it should never be allowed to rest

right on the ground, on account of the danger

of the dog catching cold from damp. The

door of the kennel should, if possible, be at the

side. Wlien it is in the front the animal cannot

get away fi'om the rain and snow which in storm j'

weather blows through the opening. With the

door at the side he can ciu"l up in the corner

away from the entrance, and so avoid it. For

indoor dogs an old wine-case filled -with straw

makes an excellent bed. The tiny pets should

be provided with little dog -baskets.

Feeding. - Many mistakes in regard to feeding

are made by the average dog-owner ; it is either

a case of " killing with kindness " or semi-

starvation tlirough unsmtable food. The mis-

take first mentioned is the one most often com-

mitted, more especially in regard to the strictly

house pets. Tit -bits of various kinds are given

to them at all hours of the day, to say nothing of

sugar, the excessive eating of which is most

injurious. Pet dogs should never be allowed

in the room at meal -time, particularly when they

are versed in the art of " begging " or other

similar blandishments, which make it ht.rd to

refuse them the tit-bits they covet. A dog

should not be fed between meals. Two good

meals a day are ample for most of our canine pets.

To lap dogs, however, three smaller meals should

bo given daily. These may consist of meat, vege-

tables, and Spratt's dog biscuits, with a regular

supply of bones. The latter are very good for

the dog's teeth. Only large bones should be

given - never bones of poultry or game. These

are apt to injure a dog's stomach, as they are

often swallowed whole. Meat should only be

given at the chief meal. Animals which have

little exercise should not be given large quantities

of meat ; it is a mistake, however, to exclude

it altogether from a dog's diet. The biscuits

can be given dry or soaked. They should

always be broken up. The diet should be

varied as much as possible - meat sc-aps from

the table with vegetables make a good and

suitable meal wliere one or two indoor dogs

are kept, but the amount of meat should be

regulated by the amount of exercise they get.

Never allow food to bo left lying about in

the vessels ; at meal times give only what is

sufficient. Plenty of drinking water must

always be at hand, and the drinking vessel must

be kept scrupulously clean. Drinking-troughs

should not be stood out in the sun in hot

weather ; the water should be kept in as cool

a place as possible.

Above all things be guarded against the

mistake of killing your pet with kindness, as

is so often the case with strictly pet dogs,

such as Pugs, Pomeranians, &c. Tlie poor

little animals have to pay in the long run for

the indiscriminate pampering they receive at

HOME PETS

509

the hands of their mistresses. Their httle

lives axe not only rendered miserable by ever-

recurring disease, but in most oases they are

materially shortened.

Exercise. - Never forget to let your pets have

suflScient exercise. To keep them indoors all

day long falls Uttle short of actual cruelty. If

you would have them keep strong and healthy,

let them be your companions in your daily walks ;

remember that exercise is almost as necessary

to them as food. The dog should be trained

early to follow well out of doors - ^this is all the

more necessary in regard to dogs kept in towns -

for the very real dangers of traffic are always

present, and it is not safe to take a dog out in the

crowded streets if he does not follow well or

answer to his mistress's call.

When qmte young a dog should always be

taken out on a lead. All dogs when out of doors

Collar for Long-haired Dog.

must wesj collars with the name and address

of their owner inscribed thereon. The collars

of long-haired dogs should be rounded in order

to preserve their fur. When sending puppies or

small dogs away long distances by train they

Dog's Travelling-Basket.

should be placed in a basket with plenty of room

for ventilation allowed. Special baskets are sold

for the purpose at moderate prices.

Puppies. - Puppies require very careful tending

[ if that great ill of puppyhood, " distemper,"

If is to bo avoided. A puppy of a few weeks old

i when taken from the care of its mother should

I be fed at least six times a day. The last meal

\ should be given to it late at night ; after a late

, meal he is more likely to rest and refrain from

( disturbing the slumbers of the household by his

;' yelping. Between six and eight weeks of age

is the usual time for weaning puppies.

Milk thickened with meal is the best food

after weaning. Later Spratt's puppy cakes

soaked in milk may be added. The meals

should be decreased as the puppy gets older,

and at five months three meals daily will be

sufficient. When he is teething, bones and a very

little meat should be added to his diet. Puppies

at this time are apt to get destructive, tearing

up whatever they come across. For this reason

it is well to supply them with plenty of bones to

gnaw at, and old boots, shoes, balls, anything

which they can tear up and destroy at their

wiU.

Care of the Mother. - The period of gestation

is between eight and nine weeks, and during this

time the animal should be well fed, and a small

dose of olive oil occasionally administered. When

the time approaches for the puppies to be bom,

a bed should be provided for her in some quiet,

secluded place, which is warm, airy, and free

from draught. Tlie bed should consist of a

roomy box or basket into which plenty of clean

straw has been placed. Beyond the preparation

of the bed, the animal can in most cases be left

quite alone until the puppies are born. It is

as well, however, especially in the case of a

valuable dog, to arrange for the attendance of

a skilled veterinary surgeon in the event of

complications arising. After the puppies are

born, fresh straw should be placed in the bos,

and the mother should be coaxed to take a little

warm beef -tea. Then she should be left luidis-

turbed as much as possible for a few hours. She

should have three good meals a day while nursing,

consisting of easily digestible food and a little

raw meat at first.

Training Dogs. - A puppy should be trained

early in the ways of obedience and cleanliness.

If he contracts bad habits in his early life and

these are left unchecked, it will become increas-

ingly difficult to cure him as he grows older. He

should be kept clean and given frequent baths,

care being always taken to thoroughh' dry him

afterwards. He should be supplied with a nice

warm bed and kept as free as possible from

draughts. Violence and impatience ai'e quite

out of place in the training of puppies. By

patience, firmness, and perseverance on the part

of the owner a puppy will soon get to know who is

master ; only firmness and perseverance on the

part of the master or mistress are essential in

order to achieve the desired result. The Uttle

creature must be first made to understand what

is wanted and then made to do it. A too liberal

use of the whip is inadvisable. A well-known

authority on dogs has said that one good beating,

if thoroughly deserved, will do good, inasmuch

as it will not be forgotten by the little culprit,

but to beat the dog on the smallest pro\'ocation

will spoil his temper and often make him snappy

and then ferocious in time. Such a method of

training can only be productive of harm. UTiilst

some dogs are very fond of going into the water

after stones, &c., others are afraid to do so. In

these circumstances they should never be thrown

in, as this will only increase their fear in this

direction. Very often a dog may be persuaded to

take to the water by seeing other dogs go in,

510

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

more especisdly if these dogs are his daily com-

pjmions ; but be should never be forced to do so.

Ailments. - A dog which is well housed, suitably

fed, and well cared for hygienically should always

keep healthy. There are, however, certain ail-

ments to which our canine pets are subject

which will sometimes make their appearance in

the best -regulated kennels. Unless the ailment

is of a strictly minor order it is always better to

at once call in a quaUfied vet. We owe it to our

faithful companions and pets that they should

have the best attention in sickness. It is as

well, however, to be able to recognise the

symptoms of the various canine ailments, so

that the sufferers may be properly treated in the

way of housing, feeding, warmth, &c. We shall

therefore describe the symptoms of the chief

ailments to which dogs are liable, together with

the particular management and attention re-

quired to effect a speedy cure.

Administering Medicine. - Small dogs can be

taken on the knee of the person who is ad-

ministering the dose ; very large dogs, such as

Mastiffs, usually require a man to handle them.

Sometimes the pills or medicine may be mixed

with food. When giving a pill, see that it is

placed well on the back of the animal's tongue,

closing its mouth quickly until the pill is

swallowed.

Canlcer. - This appears in the form of acute

inflammation of the ear. The dog will be seen

to hold its head on one side as if in pain and to

keep on scratching his ear. He must be pre-

vented from doing this as much as possible, as

the scratching will only increase the inflamma-

tion. The ear should be regularly treated with

a good antiseptic solution. If taken in time,

this treatment will often be sufficient to ward

off a bad attack. Severe cases require special

treatment, and a veterinary surgeon should at

once be consulted. Very often ear inflammation

occurs through accumulation of dust and dirt

inside the ears of the dog, which he endeavours

to dislodge by scratching. Those who have

the welfare of their pets at heart can prevent

this state of affairs by gently wiping the

inside of the ear of the animal with a piece of

soft rag, thus freeing it from all dust and dirt,

whenever it is seen to scratch its ear or to bo

suffering from undue irritation.

Distemper. - Some people think that it is

necessary for all dogs to have distemper. Tliis

is quite a fallacy. If a dog is well housed and

kept free from all source of infection, it will

seldom have it. Distemper is a most infectious

disease and can be contracted from other animals

or infected sources, such as bedding, &c.

Symptoms. - It is some time before the

symptoms make their appearance, all that is

noticeable at first being the fact that the animal

is not well. The symptoms are similar to those

of a cold - the appetite is poor, a watery discharge

comes from nose and eyes, there is a rapid rise

of temperature, the discharge from the eyes

increases to such an extent that the eyelids

often become almost glued together. In all bad

cases of distemper it is best to seek the advice

of an experienced veterinary surgeon, as many

severe complications often ensue.

The patient should at once be isolated and

kept in warm and comfortable surroundings.

Very careful feeding upon light nourishing food

is necessary : the diet should include plenty of

milk and beef-tea. All the dog'c surroundings

should be thoroughly disinfected. Too much

emphasis cannot be laid upon tho necessity for

cleanhness and warmth.

Eczema. - Eczema is often found in over-fed

pets, more especially in older dogs. The skin

eruption appears most often under the thighs and

about the ears and back of the animal. Intense

irritation is set up which is accelerated by the

continual scratching, and painful sores often

result. Careful dieting and regular exercise are

necessary. The sores should be treated with

boracic ointment. The animal should be kept

very clean, and a tonic should be prescribed

by a veterinary surgeon to improve the general

condition of its health.

Fits. - These occur most frequently in puppies,

and may be very slight, consisting merely of

convulsive movements of the muscles, or else

they may take the form of severe convulsions,

with foaming at the mouth, rolling eyeballs, and

all the other usual accompanying severe symp-

toms. Nothing can be done while the attack

lasts. Dogs subject to fits should be kept on

a very light diet, and aperient medicine should

be regularly administered. Sometimes after an

attack a dog will rush away at a tremendous

speed foaming at the mouth, having altogether

the appearance of a mad dog. Ho will hide

himself and not return till the attack has quite

passed over. This after-effect of an epileptic

seizure may easily be mistaken for rabies, so

in order to avoid the disastrous consequences of

such a mistaken impression on the part of a

stranger it is as well to tie him up until he has

altogether recovered.

Hydrophobia. - As has been already pointed

out, foaming at tho mouth must not be taken to

indicate hydrophobia. This dread disetise has

been stamped out in England, and it is very

seldom that a case of hydrophobia is heard of.

The surest indication of the disease is a com-

plete change in the disposition of the animal.

If, for instance, a good-tempered dog becomes

suddenly snappy, ferocious or irritable, and it

seems to frequently rub the sides of his mouth

with his paw as if to dislodge something from it,

it should be looked upon with suspicion, and

kept tied up until it can be ascertained if there

is any danger of its being attacked by this

disease.

Mange is a highly contagious skin disease

caused by an animal parasite. Sometimes the

HOME PETS

511

parasite takes up its abode on the surface of the

skin. In this case a number of small red spots

appear which form into sores, the hair falls off

in quantities, and an unpleasant odour emanates

from the skin. When the disease assumes this

form it is known as sarcoptic mange. In

follicular mange the parasite is to bo found in

the hair folUcle. Though this form of mange

is not so contagious as the sarcoptic form, it is

more difficult to cure. Expert veterinary advice

should at once be sought when either form of

mange makes its appearance. The dog should

be at once isolated. Give it a thorough bath and

then apply the dressing prescribed to the entire

surface of the animal's skin. This is usually

composed of sulphur and slaked lime, or sulphur

and train oil, the proportion of sulphur used

being usually double that of the other ingredient.

Allow the dressing to remain on for a few days,

then wash it off. If necessary, the process

should be repeated. In most cases of sarcoptic

mange the destruction of the parasite will be

effected after two or three applications of the

dressing. The treatment for follicular mange

is much more protracted, and the animal should

always be sent away to the care of a veterinary

surgeon until the cure is effected.

Rheumatism most frequently occurs in old

dogs. It is sometimes brought on by confinement

in damp and draughty kennels or sleeping on

damp bedding, but most often by exposure to

wet and cold. Most often it takes a chronic

form, and is manifested in extreme stiffness of

the joints, the animal having difficulty in

walking. There are intervals of great pain

and considerable stiffness and lameness, whilst

at other times the dog will appear to be quite

well. Sometimes the attacks are exceptionally

severe. The affected parts should be carefully

massaged with some good liniment every day,

the dog should be given a warm and com-

fortable bed, and doses of iodide of potassium

\vith salicylate of soda should be regularly

administered.

St. Vitus' Dance. - This disease takes a some-

what similar form to that which it displays in

human beings, its presence being indicated by

the same twitching of the muscles. Warmth

and careful dieting are essential. The patient

should be prescribed for by a veterinary surgeon,

and medicine regularly administered.

Worms. - A large number of dogs suffer from

these internal parasites, as they often pick vip

the eggs of the various worms with their food

and water Tape -worms are the most frequently

prevalent, although they are also infested with

round -worms in several cases.

Treatment for Tape -Worms. - ^Tho infested

dog should be starved for twenty-four hours,

then a good vermicide should be administered.

^ This treatment should be followed by a dose

[ of castor oil or some other aperient within two

or three hours.

Round-Worms most usually infect puppies,

and fits may often be traced to their presence.

Puppies should be kept without food for three

hours before the vermicide is administered.

No aperient is necessary unless the animal is

an adult.

CATS

The Care of Cats. - Puss is one of the most

common of our domestic pets, and perhaps it

is for this reason that, with the exception of

valuable animals which are bred for show pur-

poses, she is often sadly neglected. Very few

people think of feeding her regularly ; one or

perhaps two saucers of milk will be allowed her

daily, and the rest of her food she is supposed

to make up with mice or anything else she can

forage for herself.

This is quite a wrong way of bringing up our

feline pets : it is simply encouraging them to

thieve whatever dainties they can get hold of.

A cat who is left to hunt for her own food will

not be too particular as to where she finds

a meal, and the larder will suffer in conse-

quence.

Properly trained, a cat will become a most

docile animal, and a respecter of its master's

property, but first of all she must be fed. Milk

is not the sum total of all her requirements ;

she should have at least two good meals daily

in addition to the milk allowance. The scraps

from her master's table, including bits of meat,

gravy, and plenty of green vegetables, will

usually be sufficient ; but the meals must be

given regularly. Bread and milk in the morning,

scraps left from the mid-day meal of the house-

hold, and another meal of scraps at night will be

sufficient, whilst kittens require more frequent

feeding. Cats should always have access to

grass, wliich they eat with relish, as tliis is good

for them medicinally. Drinking water should

also always be within pussy's reach, as milk is

not sufficient to quench her thirst. Cats are

very fond of all kinds of fish, and their fancy in

this direction should be indulged whenever

possible.

The cat, more especially the common short-

haired cat, is really one of the hardiest of our

domestic pets. Persian and other long-haired

cats require more care, and are apt to be more

delicate than the ordinary short-haired \aricties.

A cat can easily be trained in habits of cleanli-

ness, only the training must begin from kitten -

hood. When a cat is kept in a house where

there is no garden, it should always be pro-

vided with a good-sized tin tray covered with

earth ; needless to say, the earth should bo

frequently changed. Cats are said to become

very attached to tlie houses in which tliey are

brought up, and they have often been known

to run away and get lost after a household

removal. An old-fsishioned plan to prevent

512

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

this is still often followed. As soon as pussy

arrives in the new house, butter is rubbed well

over her feet and legs. She will at once begin

to Hck off the butter, and by the time she has

finished this engrossing occupation it is said

that all idea of flight will have been abandoned.

When a cat is expected to have kittens, a

warmly-lined beisket should bo provided for her

in a quiet place. In most cases it will be found

necessary to get rid of some of the kittens, but

one should always be left, as, apart from any

questions of cruelty, it is bad for the mother

to have all the young one^ taken from her.

Different Kinds of Cats. - The most beautiful

of our feline pets are undoubtedly the Persian

and Angora varieties. Of these the blue

Persians are perhaps the handsomest. Then

there are black, white, and tabby Persians all

with the beautiful long soft silky fur which is

the chief characteristic of their breed. Persians

require much more attention than our ordinary

common cat, as they are more deUcate of con-

stitution ; but they are such gentle and beautiful

animals that any extra care expended upon

them is abundantly repaid.

Other varieties of cats are the Manx, the

Siamese, and the Abyssinian. The Manx cat

has no tail, and in the colouring of its coat it

resembles tJie British cat. The Siamese cat has

a light-coloured body and a dark face, tail,

and legs.

The ordinary cat keeps her own coat in good

condition by cleaning it with her tongue. Long-

haired cats, however, should be brushed and

combed daily. During the moulting season this

is more than ever necessary, for when long-

haired cats moult, if they are not strictly attended

to, they will often swallow quantities of hair

which may accumulate in the stomach and kill

them. The danger of this is obviated by regular

and careful grooming.

Common Ailments. - Our ordinary cat is as a

rule very hardy ; nevertheless there are many

ailments with which puss may be overtaken,

and as it is said that some of the diseaises which

attack cats, notably consumption, may be com-

municated to human beings, the reason for the

greatest care is all the more evident.

Colds. - These should not bo neglected, as they

may often develop into more serious ailments.

They are usually indicated by fits of sneezing

and catarrh. Keep the cat thoroughly warm

and out of draughts, and give her warm milk to

drink until the cold has run its course.

Diarrhcea. - Give a tea-spoonful of castor oil,

and keep the patient on a very light diet for a

day or two.

Distemper. - A veterinary surgeon should be

consulted. In addition to administering the

medicine he prescribes, pay great attention to

diet, give plenty of fish and strengthening food.

Isolate the animal, as the disease is infectious.

Pu88 is generally ailing and out of sorts before

the actual symptoms appear. Those usually

manifest themselves in the form of sneezing and

a watery discharge from the eyes and nose.

Fits. - These occur mostfrequentlywith kittens,

especially when teething. Nothing can be done

while the fit lasts, but a dose of castor oil

should bo administered when the convulsions

are over. Be very careful how you lift up a cat

in convulsions, always using a good thick cloth

for the purpose. Place it at onco in its basket

out of harm's way. Get veterinary advice as

to the general health of the little animal.

Other Diseases. - Cats are also liable to con-

sumption, mange, canker of the ear, eczema, and

other diseases. In all cases skilled advice should

at once be sought.

CAGE BIRDS

No more cheery pet can be kept in a house-

hold than a little feathered songster if it is well

tended and its cage kept bright and clean. To

keep a bird and yet be wholly ignorant of the

right method of caring for it is not only folly,

but in manj' cases this ignorance amounts to

actual cruelty. The sum of the requirements

of our pet birds is very small, but they should

be rigidly attended to. Cage birds suffer more

almost than any other pet from the conse-

quences of neglect. Tlieir being kept in con-

finement produces a certain delicacy which is

certainly not one of their characteristics when

enjojang the freedom of their natural state.

Before keeping a canary or any other similar

pet it must be borne in mind that no cage bird

will thrive unless it has a roomy cage, plenty

of good suitable food, and clean fresh water

both for drinking and bathing purposes, and

its cage and surroundings are kept thoroughly

clean. Last but not least, the cage must be

hung in a bright position, where the little songster

may obtain plenty of bright light - not artificial

light be it said ; there is nothing more unhealthy,

for instance, than for a bird to bo placed near

a gas-jet. Care must also be taken that the cage

is well away from all draughts. Gi\on strict

attention to these first essentials and also a

knowledge of the more common ailments to

which our feathered pets are subject, the little

captives will thrive and gladden the household

with their bright song. They will come to

know the hand that tends them, and with a

little patience on the part of their. keeper they

may in time be tamed to almost as great a degree

as any other household pet.

Canaries. - There are many varieties of

canaries, chief amongst which are the Yorkshire,

the Norwich, the Border, the Lizard, the Crest,

the Belgian, and the German. Of the English

birds the Yorkshire Canary is the most graceful,

whilst the best songsters undoubtedly come from

the Harz Mountains in Germany. As a rule, the

latter are inclined to be delicate when brought

HOME PETS

513

over to England : where they are successfully

reared, they undoubtedly make the best songsters.

In regard to singing, amongst the English birds

a mule is often a much better songster than a

pure-bred canary, and m\ile birds are also

usually fairly hardy.

Choosing a Canary. - In choosing a canary,

care should be taken to go to none but a reput-

able bird-dealer. Many bird-dealers will send a

bird to the customer's house on approval for a

day or two in order that she may be able to

judge its singing capacity. A reputable bird-

dealer as n rule will be pleased to help the

purchaser in every way in his power, and will

give much valuable advice. In other cases it

is always better for the purchaser to take some

friend with her who thoroughly imderstands

cage birds and their different points and

qualities.

The prices of canaries vary to a great extent.

As a rule, however, a very good bird may be had

for from 10s. 6d. and upwards, and often 7s. 6d.

will purchase a hardy Uttle songster.

The Cage. - The cage should be as large and

roomy as possible and fiarnished with at least

three perches, one at each side near the food and

water-troughs, and one higher up in the cage.

The bottom of the cage should be fitted with a

sUding tray which can be

tr.ken out, cleaned, and

covered with fresh sand

daily. A little vessel for

water and another one for

food are placed at each

side of the cage ; in most

cages a httle recess is built

out on either side to hold

these vessels with an open-

ing in the cage bars through

which the bird can reach

its food. In others the food

and water vessels are placed

on stands inside the cage.

A cage made of ordinary wood and wire is

very suitable, and can be purchased for from

6s. and upwards. Brass cages are naore

expensive and more ornamental, but they

become dangerous if the bars are not kept

thoroughly dry, on accoimt of the verdigris

which forms upon them. Enamelled cages may

also be had at all prices. In addition to the

food and water vessels, a larger vessel should

also be placed inside the cage in which the bird

can take his daily bath. All vessels must be

kept scrupulously clean and should be washed

out daily. It is always as well to keep two

complete sets of perches, so that wliile one set

is being scrubbed with soap and water, the

other set can be placed in the cage. Perches

should never be returned to the cage before

they are thoroughly dry.

Food and Water. - Canary seed is the chief

food for canEurieii. The seed should be clean

Canary Cage.

and free from grit. The food vessel should

always be cleaned before placing the seed

into it in the morning. A Uttle fresh green

food should also be given daily. Water-cress,

groundsel, lettuce, or chickweed are all appre-

ciated by our pets. In the winter, when green

food is sctu-ce, a small piece of apple should

always be placed between the bars of the cage

for the bird to peck at. By way of a deUcacy

a lump o£ sugar might also be placed between

the ^zc"Z of the cage : this dainty is much

appreciated and .serves to keep the bird's beak

in good condition ; a piece of cuttle bone for the

bird to peck at should also be placed between

the bars.

The bottom of the cage should always be

covered with good rough sand or gravel put in

fresh every morning, to aid the canary in

grinding its food. Fresh water should be given

every morning for drinking and for the bath.

In summer fresh water should be given twice

daily. The water vessels should be kept

scrupulously clean. For the bath an ordinary

saucer or a glass vessel such as is used some-

times for packing potted meat would fulfil all

requirements.

Breeding. - Much interest may be derived

from the home-breeding and rearing of canaries.

Care should be taken to select a hardy pair for

mating, and they should be paired about the

middle of March. It TnM be necessary also to

buy a breeding-cage. This may be procured

BreediDK-Cage.

for a few shillings, and is divided into two com-

partments by a movable wire peirtition. The

cock and the hen are put into separate com-

partments, and £is soon as the cock is seen to

feed the hen through the bars the partition is

withdrawn and the cage thrown into one.

The breeding-cage is fitted with a nest-box,

and nest-building material should be placed

between the bars. As soon as the first egg is

laid it should be taken a\< ay and a little china

egg substituted, and so on with each egg until

three have been laid, when they are returned

to the nest and the hen sits upon them. Hard-

boiled egg mashed up with bread-crumbs should

be given daily during the hatching time, in

addition to the seed, and plenty of good green

food. When the little birds are old enough to

leave the nest they may be placed in a separate

514

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

compartment, where they will be fed by the

cock. In addition to the egg, they may now

have a little crushed seed, wliich they will learn

to pick up for themselves. ^Vhen they can

feed themselves they may be placed in another

cage.

Taming Canaries. - A canary will thrive much

better if it can be so thoroughly tamed that it

can be allowed to fly about the room for a cer-

tain time each day, and may be relied upon to

return to its cage of its own accord. One

person only should undertake the taming of

the little captive in this respect, because it is

necessary that the bird should get to Icnow and

c"u-e for the hand that tends him if any headway

is to be made in the taming process. A great

amount of patience is required to accomplish

this - ^the bird should be taught to perch on its

owner's finger, to feed from her hand. Then

the cage-door can be opened and the bird allowed

its Uberty. At first it will require to be gently

coaxed back to its cage by the display of some

fresh green stuff or other dainty ; but gradually

it will return to it of its own accord. Care, of

course, must be taken that no cats or other pets

liable to harm the little wanderer are allowed

in the room. A cat, if taught very young, may

be trained to become quite friendly with a

canary or any other bird, and to refrain from any

attempt to harm it. Much more antagonistic

pets than cats and canaries have been known

to live together in harmony as a result of careful

early training.

Birds in the Aviary. - Several birds of various

kinds may be kept together in an aviary, and

their rivalling notes will often make a most

Aviary.

delightful harmony. An aN-iaiy must on no

account be overcrowded. If any of the inmates

disagree, it is better to separate the offender

from hia companions and place him in a cage by

himself. Strict cleanliness must, of course, be

the rule.

Other Cage Birds. - Amongst other British

birds which may be kept successfully as pets

are the Bullfinch, Chaffinch, Goldfinch, and

linnet. The Goldfinch is a very fine songster.

and the Bullfinch may be trained to pipe tunes.

The Chaffinch can also be trained as a soiigster,

and the Linnet has a very pleasing note. All

these birds are fed upon the same seeds as

Canaries, and the general treatment is in most

ways the same. The Goldfinch, however, needs

plenty of hemp and maw-seed, and a Bullfinch

needs a more varied diet than the other finches.

In addition to a good seed mixture, he should be

provided regularly with groundsel chickweed, a

little egg occeisionally, and meal-worms and otl"er

insects when they can be procured. Tlie Chaf-

finch also requires insect food now and then.

The Soft Bills. - It is not as a rule advisable

to keep birds which belong to the class known

as " Soft Bills," although as songsters they are

unrivalled. But to enable them to thrive in

captivity they require the utmost experience

and care on the part of those who tend them.

The Nightingale. - The Nightingale takes first

place as a songster. It requires a large and

roomy cage ; the top and back should be of wood

and the bars of osier. Shredded raw meat,

chopped eggs, meal-worms, beetles, ants' eggs

comprise its diet, the principal aim being to

make its food partake as much as possible of the

nature of that which it enjoys in its natural

state.

The Skylark. - The Skylark, if properly tended,

thrives well in captivity. Its cage should be a

roomy one, and should always contain some

green turf. Ants' eggs, meal-worms, meat, and

one of the preparations sold as lark food should

constitute its diet.

The Blackcap is another good songster, and

has to be fed and treated in a very similar manner

to the Nightingale.

The Thrush should have a very large roomy

cage, which should be cleaned every morning.

Its diet should consist of fig-dust moistened

with milk and water to form a paste, shredded

raw meat, worms, and snails. A stone should j

be placed in the cage to enable it to break the t

shells. )

The Blackbird. - The Blackbu-d has a very

soft clear note - the treatment of a blackbird

in captivity is the same as that of a thrush.

Starlings can also be managed in the same 1 1

manner, as can Magpies, Jackdaws, and JayB. t

Largo roomy cages are the first essentials for all/

these birds. It is useless to expect them to'

thrive in an unduly confined spaxje. Strict)

cleanliness and attention to diet is also essential.!

On the whole. Canaries and Finches are the mosti

suitable birds for home pets ; and we would)

advocate that no one undertakes the care ofj

birds of the soft-billed variety without havingj

first served an apprenticeship, as it were, in the

successful rearing of Canaries and Finches.

Parrots. - Of all the foreign birds which are im

ported to our shores parrots are perhaps the most ^

I popular as home pets. These birds possess the

power of imitating human speech and afford

HOME PETS

515

iParrot-Cage.

an abundance of interest and amusement in

this way. When purchebsing a paiTot, care

should be taken that the bird is thoroughly

acclimatised, as there is a great amount of

mortality amongst them. Upon being brought

over here it takes a person of the utmost experi-

ence to tend them and train them in accordance

with the necessary change of diet and conditions.

For this reason never purchase a parrot from any

other but a recognised bird-dealer who can

guarantee that it has spent at least a season in

this country.

The Cage. - A parrot's cage should be large

and roomy. In no case should it be less than

eighteen inches in diameter.

The cage should be furnished

with a swing which must be

of sufficient height for the

bird to be able to staiid

upon the perch without his

head touching the swing.

It is always advantageous

to be able to allow a parrot

to come out of his cage oc-

casionally for exercise if he

is sufficiently tame ; this can

be done with safety if the

flights of one wing are

clipped. Tlie cage should be

placed out of doors on fine simny days, and during

summer it is good for parrots to be put out

occasionally dvu-ing a shower, as many birds

object to bathing themselves. In very dry hot

weather a little water might also be sprayed

upon them once or t\vlce a week, only care

must be taken that they do not catch cold

afterwards. A strong tinned wire cage may be

had for from 12s. 6d.

Feeding. - The chief food for parrots is grain

such as hemp, wheat, oats, Indian corn, sun-

flower seed, and canary seeds, and they also

appreciate dainties such as fruit, green stuf?,

carrot, &c. Banana they are especially fond of.

It is a good plan to give them a small piece of

banana or other similar dainty every day, only

they should not be furnished indiscriminately

with scraps from the table. Parrots are also

very fond of sop food such as bread and

milk, and where, as in some cases, they object

to water the sop will form a good substitute.

Messrs. Spratt sell a very good pai-rot-seed

mixture.

Water. - Parrots require very little water,

but it is a mistake to think that water is harmful

to them. The water-tin should not be left in

the cage all day, but it should be filled with fresh

water and ofl:ered to the bird at least twice daily.

If a water-tin is left all day in the cage of a

parrot who for some mistaken reason has been

deprived of water for any length of time, he will

drink too much of it and so become ill. To this

fact may be ascribed the origin of the idea that

water is harmful to parrots. A bath should be

put ready for the parrot once a week. It should

be taken away, however, if the bird shows no

incUnation to bathe. In warm weather it is a

good plan to stand the cage out in the rain for a

little.

Grit. - Grit of some kind is always necessary.

Spratt's Parrot Grit Mixture is very good. A

piece of cuttlefish bone should also be always

put in the cage.

Feather-Eating.- The objectionable habit of

feather-eating indulged in by some parrots is

caused, according to a well-known authority,

by skin uritation set up by parasites, improper

diet, or want of occupation, more commonly

by the latter. A parrot should be given twigs

to gnaw to keep it well occupied, and it should

not be kept in a lit tie -frequented room, or the

habit will certainly be brought on by ennui, as

the parrot is a sociable bird and hkes plenty of

company. An empty reel of cotton is a favourite

toy with " Polly," and it will sometimes keep

him amused for an hour at a stretch.

Different Kinds of Parrots. - Amongst the chief

varieties of parrots which

are brought to oiu- shores

are the Grey Parrot, the

Rose - breasted Cockatoo,

Blue-fronted Amazon, Ring-

necked Parrakeet, and the

Blue and Yellow Macaw : of

these the Grey Parrot is the

best talker, although the

Blue -fronted Amazon can in

many cases be made to rival

it in this respect. The

Macaws are usually kept

chained, having a parrot-

stand on which to perch, as

they are too big to be kept

in an ordinary cage.

Ailments of Cage Birds. -

If birds are thoroughly well cared for they will

seldom cause much anxiety in regard to health.

If strict attention is paid to their diet, cleanliness,

and general hygiene, and, above all, if they are

kept free from draughts, they will be found as a

rule to keep well and to give very little trouble.

It is as well, however, that every one should

know how to treat the more common ailments

with which our feathered pets are afflicted, and

the following brief notes should be useful in this

connection.

Moulting cannot be exactly classed as an

ailnient, as all birds moult - that is to say, cast

their feathers once a year, generally late in

summer or early in autumn, but it is important

that great care should be taken of oiu- pets

during the moulting season. They should be

well fed and kept warm and free from draughts.

A little maw-seed should be added to the usual

food - a rusty nail or a little saffron placed in

the drinking-water. Either will form an efficient

tonic.

Parrot-Stand.

516

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

NlOk and Beak.- Birds' nails should not be

allowed to grow too long or they may get caught

in the wires of the cage, and oft^n |"3U"f^toJ:^"

toes may bo caused in tliis way. Take the bird

in vour hand and, holding it on its back, hftit up

to the Ught, when you will be able to see the vems

in the claws and thus avoid cutting as far as

these Cut with a sharp pair of scissors. Take

good care to hold the bird firmly, so that it cannot

wriggle whilst the nail-cutting is proceeding

Colds.- Colds are nearly always the result of

draughts. They often bring about loss of voice

for a time. Put the cage in a warmer room

which is at the same time free from draughts,

and add a little hemp to its diet - a few drops

of glycerine and whisky may be added to the

water with advantage.

Asthma. - Where a cold results in asthma, the

condition of the bird is most serious. The com-

plaint is indicated by hea\'y breathing and

wheezing. The bird should be kept in a warm,

moist atmosphere and a cloth placed round its

cage. Egg and bread-crumbs with maw-seed

should form its diet. Asthma is one of the

most fatal diseases that attack our pots - unless

taken in time a cure is hopeless. It should be

avoided by keeping the bird well out of draughts.

Diarrhoea. - This is often caused by unsuit-

able diet or too liberal a supply of green food.

Give a tiny drop of castor oil in the beak. An

egg diet consisting of the yoke of a hard-boiled

egg mashed up with some biscuit is often

effective, or scalded rape seed may be given

instead.

Constipation is often caused through an

insufficient supply of green food. Often drops

of glycerine added to the drinking-water will be

found effective, and the cause should bo removed

by at once increasing the supply of green food.

A little apple should be given where no green

food is available.

Egg-bound. - When a hen bird after sitting for

some days on a nest does not lay, but appears

instead generally out of sorts, she will be found

to be egg-bound. She should be held over a

jug of hot water, and then the vent should he

anointed with a Uttle olive oil. Two drops of

olive or castor oil should also be given internally.

POULTRY-KEEPING

A LARQK amount of interest and pleasure may be had out of poultry-keeping, where there is sufiBcient

space for a good run and the tending of fowls is thoroughly well understood.

Poultry-keeping on a large scale for profit will not here be dealt with. Suffice it to say that it

is a business which should not be too readily undertaken by any one but an expert on account of

the anxiety and great risks entailed. Where, however, a householder, with a certain amount of

spare ground at his command for the erection of a suitable hen-house and run, keeps a few fowls

for the purpose of supplying the table with fresh, new-laid eggs daily, it is a different matter. Poultry

kept in this way wU, if properly tended, more than pay for its keep - in fact, it will show a good

margin of profit if the stock is judiciously kept up and renewed.

The Hen-House. - A suitable house and run

must, of course, be provided. Excellent houses

are supplied by the manufacturers of poultry

appliances at very moderate prices. Cheap

poultry appliances are a mistake, and it is money

thrown away to buy them - the cheap house is

bound to be made of poor quality, unseasoned

timber., which will swell in wet weather so that

the doors and windows will not shut, and

shrink in the summer until there is a creak

letting in draught between every board. The

difference between two apparently similar

houses at a £1 and 40s. is in the wood, as a

rule - and the purchase of the better one will

pay in the long-run. If the timber is good to

start with, atmospheric conditions will have no

effect upon it, and the house can be stood in the

sun with impunity. Furthermore, a coat of

paint now and then will make the house look

like new, and it will fetch a fair price if at any

time it is necessary to sell it. The roof of a

wooden poultry-house should be of weather-

board well painted or creosoted. Felt covering

to the sides and roof is not to be recommended,

as it is generally put on cheap makes to cover

deficiencies in the wood.

A closed-up poviltry-house with the usual

ridge ventilation requires to be not less than

5 feet by 4 feet by 5 feet to be healthy accom-

modation for six fowls. One side of the house

should have as large a window as possible,

covered only with wire netting, as it is essential

that the house should be properly ventilated.

As the dampness of our climate is one of the

worst enemies of our poultry, a house well

raised above the ground is to be preferred to a

low pattern with no floor. The nests should be

placed on a level with the floor. If the house

is of a pattern which comes directly into contact

with the ground, old railway sleepers placed

under the woodwork will help *^o keep it in good

condition.

Cleanliness. - Cleanliness in the poultry-house

and run is essential. All poultry-houses and

their runs should be cleaned out daily. A

sprinkling of sifted ashes, sawdust, or peat-moss

dust should always be thrown under the perches.

The perches should be regularly taken out and

cleaned, and the inside of the house should be

limewashed at least three times a year.

Grit and Lime. - It is absolutely necessary that

grit in some form should be supplied to fowls.

This is indispensable in assisting them to digest

their food. In every run a heap of gravel or

broken stone, crockery or oyster-shell, must be

placed, also some old mortar rubbish or similar

substance. Laying fowls require a considerable

quantity of lime to provide material for the egg

shells, and this may be given in the shape of

oyster -shells broken up, ground bones, or, best

of all, mortar rubbish. The laying of a shell-

less or soft-shelled egg is a sure sign that the

birds are neglected in this respect.

Nest-Boxes. - These are often made too small.

Good nest-boxes for small varieties can be made

out of orange -boxes, which cost only a few pence

each. They are already divided into tliree nests,

are very strong, and need only the addition of

some strips of wood along the openings in the

sides. Tlie advantage of such nests over more

elaborate and costly ones is that they can be

thrown away and replaced with new ones, if

necessary, without compunction. The nests

should be filled with straw, and each should

contain a china egg.

Perches. - All perches should be arranged at a

uniform height, which should not be greater

than 4 feet from the gi'ound. If they are placed

at different heights, all the birds will endeavour

to crowd on the highest perch, and will fight

for possession of it. Perches should be round

and small enough to be comfortably grasped by

the toes of the fowls. They should be easily

removable for cleaning purposes.

517

518

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Site.- With regai-d to a site, wherever possible,

poultry-houses should be so situated that they

get aU the sun in tlie winter, and yet are not

too hot in the summer. A south-east or south-

west aspect will meet the case, the choice to be

decided by the prevailing wind of the district,

away from which the houses should be turned.

Poultry Runs.- In cases where the fowls have

a run out over a paddock, very great care is

needed not to overstock the ground. Twelve

birds to the acre seems to be the greatest

number which can live healthily for an indefinite

period of vears. Ordinary hen runs should be

enclosed vrith wire netting. They can be made

by dri\'ing posts not less than 6 feet high into

the ground at certain distances and attaching

wire netting to them. Good portable hen runs

Indian corn (or maize) are the best grains. For

soft foods those grains are ground into flour.

Wheat ground in this way is known as middlings,

sharps, pollards, or tliirds, different names for

the same thing given in different parts of tlio

country. Oats treated in the same manner

produce ground oats, barley meal, giound

barley. Pea meal and bran are also good soft

foods. .

IMiddlings, bran, and pea meal nuxed with

warm water make an excellent morning meal

of soft food for the cold months of autumn

and winter. A mixture of ground oats and

middUngs is also good. The scraps of meat

food should be given with this meal. The

evening meal should be of grain and oats. For

i laying birds nothing can be better than oats.

Hen-House.

may also bo bought at moderate prices. A run I

10 feet long by 6 feet wide will hold six fowls. |

The suburban poultry-keeper with very little

space at his command will be well advised if he

adds a roof to his run. His object will only be

to produce a regular supply of new-laid eggs,

and there is little doubt that he will attain his

desire with greater certainty if he keeps his

birds dry and well sheltered. Coal ashes should

be spread over the floor of the run to keep it

Food and Feeding. - To ensure the health of

the denizens of the poultry-yard it is essential

that they should have proper and suitable food.

It must bo remembered that a food which may

be very suitable and even necessary in wint may be totally unsuitable in summer, and that

birds penned will not thrive on a diet suitable

for those enjoying a large range. Fowls to bo

fattened for the table must also be fed in a

special manner. In short, the food must be of

the right description to serve the particular

purpose required. Laying hens will eat more

than idle ones, and in winter the fowls will eat

more than in summer.

Various kinds of grain, soft food (ground-up

grain), vegetable and meat foods are necessary.

Grata and Soft Food.- Oats, wheat, barley,

whilst wheat is a good all-the-year-round food. ,

Indian corn (or maize) is the best fattener, but

is not to be recommended for any fowls except

in very cold weather, because birds fed too

exclusively on it are apt to acquire a soft, yellow,

oily fat instead of the desirable firm, wnite

flesh. For growing birds a judicious blending

of oatmeal, Indian corn, wheat, and barley is

desirable. , , j j *

Meat Foods.- Grain and soft foods do not

constitute the sum-total of the foods required

by fowls. Quite as important and by no mea.is

so easily secured in the average poultry-yard

are insect and animal life. Fowls which are at

liberty forage themselves for a great deal of

their meat food. They eat with avidity all

manner of grubs and caterpillars, earth-worms,

shell-snails, and slugs.as well as ants' eggs, beetles,

and flies, and there is no doubt that birds thrive

best when they have the opportunity of search-

ing, stalking, and scratching for these desirable

tit-bits. It is absolutely necessary that fowls

should have a daily supply of animal food in

some form or other. Cereals alone are not

sufficient to fulfil all the necessary functions,

and if the birds are confined they must receive

something in addition, even if it takes the shape

of meat from the butcher. For the smaU

POULTRY-KEEPING

519

poultry-yard the house scraps, in which bits of

meat and bones are always to be found, will be

suflficicnt. " Save the scraps for the cliickens "

must therefore be the mandate to the powers

that be in the kitchen. Cut green bone is very

valuable as a meat food for fowls where meat

and bone scraps from the table prove insuffi-

cient ; also bullock's liver, tripe, or raw scraps

may be had very cheaply from the butchers. A

small allowance of meat food minced finely and

mixed with the soft food should be given daily.

It is better to do this than give a larger quantity

once or twice a week. Meat acts as a stimulant

with fowls, and is especially valuable as an in-

centive to laying. It will be found to work

wonders on backward pullets. If birds do not

lay, it is very probably because they are low

in health through their not having sufficient

meat in their diet. A judicious meat diet will,

in most cases, obviate all necessity of having the

recourse to the spices and strong stimulants

which are so much used for the purpose of

bringing hens on to lay and increasing egg

production.

Table Scraps. - Care must be taken in sorting

the table scraps given to the fowls that they do

not consist too largely of fat and bread-crtists.

These contain very little egg material, and only

serve to fatten without stimulating. Apart from

the meat scraps, potatoes and potato-parings

mix well with the soft food.

Green Food. - Fowls eat quite a lot of grass

if they get the chance, and a daily supply of

green food is as indispensable to birds in con-

finement as is animal lood. The green stviff

may take the form of a few handfuls of grass,

a cabbage or lettuce hung up in the run at a

height where it can be conveniently pecked at,

or, in fact, almost any garden produce. Under

this category we may include potatoes, carrots,

and other roots, none of which come amiss if

boiled till soft and mixed with the meal in small

quantities. The cores of apples with the seeds

(which will be eagerly devoured) and the peel

can be given if everything else fails, but it is

necessary to mention that too free vise of apples

leads to a bad kind of diarrhoea in fowls. Birds

which have free access to the apple heaps in

autumn in the orchards of the West get in sad

plight from this cause.

Number of Meals. - Two meals a day - one

early in the morning, the other in the evening -

are ample for fowls which have a paddock or

other space to roam about in, whilst bii'ds in

confinement should have a third and lighter

meal, mainly of green stuff at noon. The soft

food should be given at the morning meal, mixed

with any scraps, green bone, &c., to constitute

the meat allowance. Tlie evening meal should

consist of grain. For the morning feed just as

much soft food should be given as the fowls will

run after eagerly - this will be about 2 oz. to

3 oz. per bird. For the evening meal 2 oz. of

grain per head for the small breeds, 2| oz. to

3 oz. for the large ones, will be sufficient.

Birds in the fattening pen intended for the

table should have not less than three square

meals daily, and young chickens need feeding

four to six times a day.

Cost of Feeding Fowls. - Tliis depends, of

course, partly upon whether the food is purchased

in an advantageous market, also upon how

much has to be bought. Presuming that all the

food has to be purchased, and that this is done

in the cheapest market, we may estimate as

follows for six laying fowls, weekly : -

6 Hens- 1 Week.

Meal (2i oz. each daily*, say 6 lbs. barley

meal, at Ss. 4d. per bushel of 48 lbs. . about 5d.

Grain (2J oz. each daily), say 7 lbs., at

3s. 9d. per bushel 5Jd.

Meat, 14 oz. greaves at lis. per cwt. . . ,, Id.

lljd.

Green food and grit will have to be added to this

sum, if not available in the form of scraps, and

odds and ends of rubbish.

Water. - All water-vessels should be rinsed out

and refilled with pure water thrice daily. The

water should never be allowed to stand in the

sun, neither should snow water be given.

Hints on Buying Fowls. - When starting a

poultry run it is necessary of course to buy young

birds. It is by no means easy for a notice to

tell the age of a fowl - a fact of which an un-

scrupvdous vendor will take advantage. It may

be said that, broadly speaking, the legs of a

young hen are smooth and dehcate, her comb

and wattles soft, and her feathers close. Old

hens often have hard, hori;y -looking legs with

liard spurs, a stiff bill, and rough comb and

wattles, wWle the feathers may be loose and

inchned to droop behind. Anj' of these indica-

tions may, however, be deceptive, so that the

buyer must, unfortunately, be somewhat de-

pendent on the word of the seller as to the exact

age of his pullets. For this reason it may bo

better to buy in the spring chickens fully fledged,

when their age can be almost esactlj' arrived at,

feed them well, and wait for the eggs.

For Winter Laying. - As very few pullets com-

mence to laj' before they are six months old,

and the majority not until from one or two

months older, to secure a supply of new-laid

eggs in the winter it will be necessary to buy

chickens hatched late in February or early in

March. It is important that the pullets should

have begun to lay before the first real frost sets

in. Once they have commenced to lay, cold

will seldom check them if they are sensibly fed,

but they will often be deterred by cold from

commencing egg production. ^\laen winter eggs

are the chief concern, the majority of tlie pullets

should be killed off after Christmas, aa they get

broody or stop laying, and they will be found

to make excellent roasting birds even though

520

•THE WOMAN'S BOOK:

nettfly or quite a year old. Thoir places should

be taken by chickens hatched from their eggs,

thus ensuring a new generation of birds every

year to provide the household \rith winter eggs.

Hens, i.e. birds in thoir second winter and

onwards, never lay in September, October, or

November, because they are then moulting.

It is known, however, that picked pullets, well

forced from birth and hatched early, will not

moult, but will lay instead.

Varieties of Fowls. - In deciding upon what

fowls to keep it will bo necessary to bear in

mind for what special purpose they will be

required. Certain breeds of fowls make the

best layers, others are better for table pur-

poses, whilst others in varying degrees are

suitable for both. The following are very

good fowls for laying purposes : Anconas,

Andalusians, Slinorcas, Leghorns, and Ham-

burgs. All of these are non-sitters, and lay

white eggs. Aseels, Dorkings, Game, Indian

Game, La Flfeche, Poland, and Sussex are good

table fowls. These are non-sitters, and lay dark-

coloured eggs. Orpingtons, Langhams, Bedcaps,

Wyandottes, and Plymouth Rocks are sitters

and good for both laying and table purposes.

Houdans are non-sitters and good for laying

as well as table purposes. Brahmas and Cochins

are good layers of dark-coloured eggs, but are

such inveterate sitters that they always show a

marked inclination to become broody after having

produced only a small number of eggs. The hens

of both breeds make capital mothers.

Fowls for Small Runs. - Orpingtons, Mnorcas,

Leghorns, Cochins, Faverolles, Plymouth Rocks,

and Wyandottes stand confinement well, and

are therefore particularly suited for a small run

in a kitchen garden or back yard.

Where the space is very limited chicken-

hatching should not be attempted, and it is

better, in these circumstances, to keep a few

hens of the non-sitting breeds, without a cock.

However, even the small poultry-keeper who

keeps hens merely for the eggs they provide for

the table requires to renew his stock every year

if the egg supply is to be good and continuous,

and if the fowl run is not unduly small a brood

can easily be raised once in the year for effecting

this purpose.

Making a Pen. - If the fowls have their liberty,

a dozen hens of the heavier sitting breeds may be

put with one cock. Of the non-sitting breeds,

eight to ten hens is sufficient, if fully fertile

eggs are expected. Eight or six hens respec-

tively will be enough if the birds are confined.

The best results come from running March-

hatched pullets with a cock in his second season,

or from running a cockerel with hens in their

second season. It must be remembered that

the better the stock the better the chickens will

l>e. If none but the strongest and healthiest

birds are selected for stock, the chickens will

inherit the good qualities of the parent birds.

It does not matter how nearly related the latter

are, so long as they are strong and healthy. In-

breeding, in fact, is absolutely necessary in

some cases to fix definite characteristics, and as

long as the strongest and healthiest are selected

for stocks no harm will come from breeding

them together.

Selection of Eggs for Hatching. - Apart from

the selection of eggs from particular hens, it is

important that only eggs of fair average size,

say, not less than 2 oz. in weight, of good shape,

and with clean, smooth shells should be put on

one side for hatching. None of the eggs should

have been laid longer than three weeks at the

outside, and the fresher they are the better.

The Sitting Hen. - Care must be taken in

arranging a suitable nest for the sitting hen.

The nest should always be made, if possible, on

damp ground. To make a good nest, throw

down a heap of mould in a corner of the sitting-

house, place some bricks around it to keep it

together, scoop out the centre slightly and

place therein some soft straw, and the nest is

complete.

If a number of hens are sitting together in the

same house, it may be necessary to separate them

with wire netting in some way, or to cover each

over with a basket. Throe cheap sitting-boxes

can be made out of an orange-box, the nests

being prepared with mould and a little straw as

above suggested.

A heap or box of dry ashes should be within

reach of every sitting hen for her to dust her-

seK in.

Tlie number of eggs to be placed under a hen

varies from ten to fifteen, according to the time

of year and the breed. In cold weather it is

undesirable to give more than can be comfortably

covered. If the outer eggs are merely covered

by the feathers, and the season is inclement, a

good hatch will not be secured.

Suitable eggs for settings may be had for from

5s. and upwards per setting (usually about

fiifteen eggs) from most poultry-rearers. The

price will of course vary in regard to the quality

of the eggs.

The period of incubation is twenty-one days.

A hen should be allowed to get accustomed to

her nest before the eggs are placed under her.

This can be done by placing a couple of nest

eggs in the nest and placing her on it at dusk.

She should then be left for twenty-four hours,

and when it is found she has quite settled down,

the eggs for the sitting can bo placed imder her.

Food for Sitting Hens. - The food given should

be wheat, soft food being unsuitable. It is

sometimes difficult to get a hen - particularly

a broody turkey hen - to eat ; indeed, we have

known one of the latter to die on the nest from

this cause. In such a cewe they must be

crammed daily with soft food, mixed as dry and

crumbly as possible. We alway^ like to see a

hen feed freely, walk about a little, and take

POULTRY-KEEPING

521

a dust-bath before returning to the nest. No

fear need be entertained that harm will come to

the eggs from a thorough cooling. They may be

allowed to get stone cold, and will still hatch

satisfactorily, especially at the commencement of

incubation, and the more air in reason they get

the stronger will the chickens be.

Broken Eggs. - If by chance an egg gets broken

in the nest, all those in contact with it must be

washed in warm water, and the nest renovated

with clean earth and straw. A cracked egg may

be repaired with a small piece of sticking-plaster

or stamp-paper.

Towards the end of the three weeks (twenty -

one days) of incubation, the nest, if very dry,

may with advantage be sprinkled with rain-

water, with a watering-can with rose. Under

natural conditions, the eggs would be more or

less exposed to rain during the temporary

absence of the hen, besides benefiting from wet

which may fall on the ground around them,

and there is no doubt that ample moisture is an

important factor towards a successful hatch.

Testing Eggs. - A simple and efficient instru-

ment for testing the fertility of eggs is made by

cutting a hole, the shape of but sHghtly smaller

than an egg, in the centre of a piece of card-

board. Tlie cardboard must be covered with

black paper, or painted black. At night, if the

egg is placed against the hole in the cardboard

and held up to the light of a good lamp, the con-

tents can be plainly seen on the seventh day.

Infertile or " clear " eggs are almost transparent

and similar to those new laid, and the novice

can compare with a known unincubated egg if

doubtful of the appearance they have. Those

which contain chickens will appear quite dark

and opaque, except at the larger end ; possibly,

if the light is strong enough, small branching

blood-vessels will be seen. Addled eggs look

very dark and cloudy.

Feeding and Rearing Chickens. - Chickens do

not require any food for the first twenty-four

hours of their existence. During this time both

Poultry Coop.

hen and choikens should be left alone. The

first meal for the chicks should consist of a little

baked custard, or hard-boiled eggs chopped fine,

mixed with double the quantity of bread-crumbs

and moistened with milk. The hen should be

given a feed of Indian corn, then both hen and

chicks should be taken to their coop, which should

be placed on a piece of clean short grass. The

coop will have to be placed on a board every

night and imperviously closed if the presence of

Poultry Coop and Run.

rats is suspected. Coops are also sold with little

rims attached. These are very useful when it is

desired to keep the chicken within bounds.

During the last few years a revolution has

taken place in the methods of feeding chickens.

In the past meal messes were considered to fulfil

all requirements. In the present the rage is

all for " di-y feeding," as it is called, and the

loud praises of all poultry-keepers who have

tried it testify to the benefit of the reform.

Now, instead of feeding the chicks on ground

meal, small seeds, such as canary, millet, dari,

and small wheat, are given. These seeds should

be of the best and should be given whole,

not crushed. It will be found that the chicks

can be reared entirely from the beginning on

this natural dietary supplemented with animal

food.

Some authorities strongly recommend that a

httle baked custard be given during the first day

or two, in Meu of the old-fashioned hard-boiled

egg, and it no doubt makes a valuable addition

to the dry food. If the chickens have their

liberty they will find for themselves all the

necessary grit, animal life, and green food. If

confined, these items must be added to their

menu by their owner. Ants' eggs and maggots

will be much appreciated. Chopped nettles

suit them very well, and finely-chopped onions

and leeks have a wonderfully stimulating and

apparently tonic action, and should be given

freely. Chickens require grit just as much as

adult fowls.

The chickens should be fed every two hours

for the first three weeks. Tlie first meal should

be as early in the morning, and the last as late

in the evening as possible. The gi'ain should

be thrown on the ground, the soft food placed

in saucers, which together with the drinking-

vessels should be kept clean.

Many poultry -rearers believe in giving the

chickens Spratt's Chicken Meal as soft food for

the early morning meal, giving the mixture of

the various small seeds at the other meals.

Fattening Fowls for the Table.- Of the pure

breeds, Dorkings, Game, Langshans, Wyandottes,

Orpingtons, Plymoxith Rocks, and Sussex are the

most useful table-fowls for family purposes. Tlie

522

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

birds should bo penned up m a "*\"^' ^f'i'

quiet place for fatt*^ning. Fowls will fatten

very well if confined in any place where they

get no exercise, and are out of sight and hearing

of their comrades. .

Feeding for Fattening Purposes.- Oatmeal is

the best food, nmize having a tendency to pro-

duce a yellow, oily fat. Throe meals dady,

as far apart as possible, should be given, con-

Sting of oatmeal mixed to a crvxmbly state

wih (if possible) milk. "Scraps" from the

house, particularly finely chopped fat trimmings

may bi mixed in with advantage. A supply of

water and some coarse sand or fine gravel should

always stand before the birds. As much a^

the fowls can eat should be given at each nieal,

but no more. Food should never be left standing

in front of them. Care must be taken that the

troughs are kept clean and the food is not

allowed to become sour.

A bird will be at its best after three weeks

penning. K left longer than this it will go

Sff." and the food given be wasted. In view of

this fact, it is important that fowls should be j

penned up so as to be at their best exactly when ,

"^^KiUing.- Dislocation of the neck, if properly

done, is undoubtedly the most humane method

of killing a fowl. The system of " wringing the

neck " is not to be recommended, an easier and

more certain mode being to hold the bird by the

legs and give it a very sharp blow at the back

of the neck with a small but heavy stick. For

the average poultry hand, who does not under-

stand correct dislocation, perhaps the best way

of all to bring about a merciful and instantaneous

death is to pierce the brain with a kmfe. ihe

bird must be hung up by the legs, the mouth

opened, and the blade of a penknife thrust firmly

through the back part of the roof of the mouth.

An incision should be made in the neck, and the

bird should be loft hanging for a short time until

the blood has drained out if great whiteness ot

flesh is desired ; but bleeding is not absolutely

necessary. ."

A fowl plucks much more easily when stiu

warm. , . . ., "

The best time to kill is first thing in the

morning before the early meal, as the intestines

will then be free of food. A fast of not less

than three hours is absolutely necessary, or the

birds will not keep for long, and the flesh will

\euck firmness.

COMMON AILMENTS OF THE FOWL

The majority of the complaints from which

poultry suffer are brought on by lack of cleanli-

^3, cold or damp, or a faulty dietary. In the

well-kept poultry-yard disease should be rare

When a bird appears to be unwell it should

at once be isolated from the others, as most of

the ailments of the fowl are infectious.

The following ere some of the most common

ailments amongst poultry :-

Qranip. Tliis is a frequent complaint with

cliickens,' caused by exposure to cold and wet,

or too close confinement on a boarded floor.

The toes of the little birds become contracted,

and they will often sit down to relieve the feet.

Trealment.-The birds will usually recover

if placed for a few houi-s in a hamper near the

fire. Their legs may be rubbed with turpentine

to hasten the cure.

Diarrhoea.- This may be caused by exposure

to wet and cold, sudden change of food, or un-

suitable food. ■ i "of

Treatment.- A case of simple diarrhoea is best

treated first by starvation, a dose of castor oil

being given if the bird is very bad. A drop or

two of tincture of opium will also cure it. ihe

most suitable food until the ailment is com-

pletely past is boiled rice, and plenty of grit

should be put witliin reach of the invahd. As

diarrhoea in its initial stages is very d.ihcult to

distinguish from the fatal fowl enteritis and

enteric, or inflammation of some portion of the

! intestines, a disease which would cause the

death of the whole stock in a short space of time,

it is advisable that all symptoms of diarrhoea

should be looked upon with the greatest suspicion,

the invalid isolated, and the other fowls removed

to fresh ground if possible. If the bn:d is un-

doubtedly inflicted with inflammation of the

intestines, it should be killed at once, and the

body burnt, as a cure is almost hopeless and

certainly not worth attempting.

Effg-binding.- When a hen is unable to pass

her egg she is said to be egg-bound. A hen who

I is egg bound will be seen to go frequently to the

! nest and come out again without having laid.

her wings and tail ^vill be drooping, and she wUl

' be evidently in pain. This will be caused by

an unusually large egg which she is unable to

Treatment.- Hold the hen over a vessel of hot

water so that the steam can reach the vent, and

apply a little olive oil to the vent ; a dose of

cE oil may also be given with advantage.

The hen should be kept as quiet as Pf "'"^f ;

Gapes.- This causes a great deal of niortality

amongst chickens, and is caused by small worms

thich live in the windpipe. The .ficken gasps

for breath, and needs to be speedily relieved of

the worms, which choke it. Tliis disease never

occurs amongst carefully housed chickens, and

is in part due to neglect. ,

Trealment.-U taken early, a niorsel of

camphor the size of a grain of wheat g\ven daily,

and a little camphor put in the drinking-water,

combined with improvement in diet and housing

may effect a cure. In bad cases it ^B^y b"

nelsary to insert a feather, Btjippod to withm

an inch of the point, and dipped in a weak solu-

W of t^baccoUe'r, quickly into the wmdpi^e

turning it round and drawing it out again

POULTRY-KEEPING

together with some of the parasites. Another

remedy is to put the fowl in a box for a quarter

of an hour at a time, placing a small piece of

sponge soaked in eucalyptus oil in with it, the

process to be repeated constantly throughout one

or more days as found necessary. The breath -

mg of air strongly impregnated witli eucalyptus

will cause the death of the worms.

Leg Weakness.- Cawae.- The body of the bird

IS too hea^^ for the strength of its legs, conse-

quently It constantly subsides into a sitting

position. ў

Treatnient-The constitution of the bird must

be built up on nourishing food and meat. The

food should be little in quantity, but of the best,

to overcome this form of weakness.

Difficulty in Moulting is due entu:ely to

weakness and general debiUty.

Treafmerd.- Birds should be kept in a warm

house and fed Hberally on animal food. As

much saccharated carbonate of iron as will

cover a threepenny piece, given mixed with the

soft food daily to each individual, wiU act as a

tome, and help to build up the constitution.

Roup.- Cause.- A very contagious disease of

the respiratory organs, actually a species of

catarrh symptomised by offensive discharge

from the nostrils, &c., and caused by exposure

to wet and very cold winds.

Treatment.-.The affected bird should be im-

mediately isolated and placed in a warm house.

*eed on oatmeal mixed wth ale or stout, and

give plenty of green food. Some iron tome,

^recommended in the previous paragraph.

^L,, beneficial. The head and eyes must b^

to which a few drops of carbolic acid have been

523

[ added. The disease runs its course very rapidly

I and may spread throughout the entire yard

It m a week the bird is not almost weU. it is

better to kill it and burn the carcase. In aU

cases of contagious diseases the attendant should

be careful that he does not throw food to healthy

fowls with hands unwashed since he handled a

sick bird.

Scaly Legs.--Caw*e.- A very small insect

which burrows under the scales and forms httle

cells, temporarily disfiguring the legs, and

causing considerable irritation.

Treatmeni.~The best cure is to brush the legs

twice daily with a hard tooth or nail brush

dipped m paraffin oil. A fortnight's daily

attention will usually get the legs right. The

appearance of this ailment should suggest the

advisabiHty of a thorough cleaning out, disin-

fection, and lime-wasliing of aU poultry-houses.

Vermin.- Cawse.- Neglect and uncleanUness,

particularly absence of an efficient dust-bath.

Fowls genoraUy have a few fleas in summer, but

with proper attention vermin should not be

sufficiently prevalent to cause annoyance to the

bird.

Treat?nent.~The addition of some flowers of

sulphur to the dust-bath, and the dusting

of the hen with insect powder, will alleviate

these troubles. In very bad cases it may be

necessary to dress the hen on head and beneath

wrings and thighs with paraffin. These attentions

wiU be of little avail, however, miless the

poultry-house is thoroughly cleaned out and

the walls and perches and all crevices lime-

washed. Fleas breed in dust, consequently

none should be allowed to accumulate untouched

for more than a few days at a time.

RECREATIONS

INDOOR GAMES AND ENTERTAINMENT

Every woman should include a knowledge of good indoor games and entertainments amongst

her accomplishments. To be able to play well is almost as essential as to be able to do one's work

thoroughly. The most popular people with children and the younger " grown-ups " are almost

invariably those who are good organisers of games. We have all of us experienced the dullness

of those long evenings that drag for want of something to do or for want of co-operation in amuse-

ment. Let us take a typical case. One member of the family may have an interesting book -

her evening will most probably bo spent to her satisfaction ; another may be engaged in writing

letters. This is an agreeable task for some ; in any case it is a task which prevents time hanging

on one's hands. Well, let us suppose that the one or two remaining members of the family have

nothing to do. They cannot keep up a conversation for fear of disturbing the others. They

literally have to sit gazing in the 6re yawning the time away until bed-time. Now dullness and

want of occupation are especially bad for young people, and the wise head of a family will never

allow such a state of affairs to prevail. She will make a point of seeing that all the evenings of her

young people are spent pleasantly and well by encouraging them to co-operate in their amusements

by having games in which all may join. Other young people may sometimes call in in the evenings,

and the greater the number of players the miore fun there will be. In fact, friends will soon make

a habit of dropping in on various evenings, knowing that they will always be amused. The wise

mother will encoxirage these impromptu visits, as she will realise that the social spirit is as the breath

of life to the young folk, and that if opportunity is afforded to her sons in particular to spend their

evenings pleasantly at home, they will not be anxious to seek their amusement abroad. It may

indeed be said that dull evenings have been the means of breaking up many an otherwise happy

homo circle. The thoughtful house-mistress will therefore take this to heart and keep her young

family together by entering with zest into their amusements and occupations, and making herself

an aidept organiser of all kinds of home fun.

Theatricals. - Amongst the favourite enter-

tainments provided at children's parties thea-

tricals may be said to take a foremost place.

To begin with, the pleasure of preparation almost

equals, if it does not excel, that of the actual

performance. The word " rehearsal " has a

mysterious yet potent charm for the young

people. It is synonymous to them with many

pleasant little gatherings which may be arranged

in turn, at the houses of the various players

and at which they go over their parts, arrange

about the costumes and all the various other

details which have to bo attended to.

For home theatricals to be a success there must

edways be some good organiser to take charge

of the whole proceedings in regard to choice

•jf play, choice of performers, costumes, and

scenery. Without this chaos would inevntably

result. The organiser must also act as stage

manager, allotting to each player his or her

part. In this respect her task will be somewhat

difficult, for very seldom yet has a little com-

pany of players been known to assemble

without five or six of them at least wishing

to play the principal rfile.

524

In this respect the stage manager's word must

be law. Having once made her decision in

regard to the allotting of the parts, she must

be careful never to deviate from it, whatever

pressure may bo brought to bear upon her,

unless there should bo very good reason for

her doing so, such as the utter incompetency

or unsuitability of any particular player con-

cerned. But the careful stage manager will

think well before she gives out the parts, and

thus avoid making mistakes which are often

the moans of hurting the feelings of the person

chiefly concerned, and which might well have

been avoided.

Home theatricals, if properly arranged, involve

very little expense. Fancy costumes can be

made of the cheapest materials, such as art

muslin and sateens, whilst if the piece to be

presented is a modern one the dressing

is even yet more simplified. Friends and

relations will willingly lend articles from their

wardrobes in order to a-ssist in the suoceBS of

the presentation.

The size and shape of the room in which the

theatricals are to be given are most important

RECREATIONS

525

considerations, A large drawing-room with a

curtained alcove or folding-doors in the centre

is the most suitable for the purpose. The stage

will be on one side of the folding-doors or

curtains, while the members of the audience

are seated on the other side. Rows of chairs

should be neatly arranged in the auditorium,

and in a manner which will allow for as good

a view as possible of the stage to be obtained.

Of coiirse, where there is no raised platform the

people seated in the back rows will not see

so well as those in front, and for this reason

the latter position should as far as posible be

allotted to the tiniest of the juveniles with the

grown-ups who are in charge of them.

On the night of the performance complete

order must reign behind the scenes. The players

should be dressed and in their places at least

ten minutes before the curtain goes up. They

should be letter perfect in their parts but at

the same time " stage fright " is a

factor which must be reckoned with,

and for this reason there should

always be a " prompter " concealed

from the audience who, keeping the

MSS. of the play in front of her, will

follow the dialogue carefully, giving

assistance when necessary in a clear

low voice. The words should never

be whispered nor too loudly spoken :

a happy medium is acquired with

experience.

The stage manager should always

have a list of iny " properties " re-

quired in the piece, such as walking

sticks, flowers, or the inevitable letter

upon which the plot of so many a

play depends. It would be disastrous,

for instance, if the heroine were sup-

posed to discover an all -important

letter upon her writing-table, and

when the time came for her to find it the letter

was not there. Few young amateurs would

have the presence of mind to cope with such

a difficulty. The stage manager should see

therefore that everything is in its place before

the curtain rises, or else appoint some one to

do it for her.

All the players must be well acquainted with

their exits and entrances. It would not do

for any one, for instance, to appear to go through

a blank wall or a window instead of through

the door, but this is a mistake which is very

commonly made, to the amusement of the

onlookers. In the ordinary drawing-room

screens have to play an important part in the

arrangement of the exits. Four screens, two

on each side, can be requisitioned for the wings,

and a small steady table placed in each recess

(see illustration) for moderator lamps - prefer-

ably of the self-extinguishing pattern, in case they

should be upseL by an untoward accident - to

make up for the deficiency of footlights, though

these can be provided by the aid of a little

ingenuity, e.g. candle reading - lamps with

shades and reflectors, begged or borrowed from

accommodating neighbours. Cocoa-tins cut in

half and night-lights will serve the purpose

equally well. Here, again, the inventive genius

of the promoters of the enterprise will have to

be called into play.

By the judicious arrangement of the screens

it will be possible for exits and entrances on

both sides of the stage.

Very little expense need be gone into in the

way of scenery. If it is an indoor scene, as the

room of a house, as long as the furniture on the

stage is suitably arranged no scenery will be

required. Simple outdoor scenes can also be

very easily planned. I remember seeing a most

admirable representation of the fairy scenes

from " The ISIidsummer Night's Dream " given

at a Christmas paxty by some very talented

JLdimp

L&i

>^i^

.4^' "^

• L^rmp

Ld^rnp

Audience

Plan showing arrangement of Screens for Exits and Entrances.

children. In this the background to the scene

was hung with green art muslin, to which were

tacked trailing boughs of ivy and other foliage.

Stiff brown paper covered the floor, loose foliage

being scattered here and there in realistic fashion,

whilst green art muslin spread over footstools

and cushions, and artistically decorated here

and there with more leaves, did admirable duty

as the green bank upon which Titania sleeps.

Palms and other plants were judiciously ar-

ranged along the sides of the stage near the

wings.

The dresses, wliich were correct in every

detail, were all fashioned out of art muslin. As

this material is procurable at 2d. a yard it can

be imagined that they were not costly, although

very graceful and pretty. AH these garments

were cut and made at home from copies of the

" Midsummer Night's Dream " pictures. The

most costly item was the expenditure entailed

by the hiring of a mechanical donkey's head at

53. 6d. for the night.

526

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

How to Make a Drop-Curtain. - An essential

piece of stage furniture for amateur theatricals

is the drop-curtain. It can be made from two

equal widths of some serviceable material such

as dark cretonne, supported by brass rings on

a stout bamboo rod, to either end of which are

att€w:hed large steel eyes (A A).

The bamboo rod should be cut to such a

length that when the eyes have been added, the

whole can be fixed to steel hooks screwed into

the picture rail on either side of the room.

Back View of Drop-Curtain.

Should any difficulty be experienced in pro-

curing a rod of sufficient length, the diffi-

culty may be overcome by the use of two

shorter pieces joined at the middle by iron

sockets.

In the case where it is intended to give the

performance in either a schoolroom or a small

hall, a curtain of a much larger size and of

stouter material would be required, and tliis

latter can be supported on a length of strong

gas barrelling held in position by brackets nailed

to the wall at each end.

The arrangement for raising or lowering the

curtain is shown in the diagram, in which A A

is the rod. A number of small brass rings is

then sewn to the back of the curtain, as at A X

and A E. Top rings, much larger, are also

attached to the curtain and passed along the

rod. Ck)rd is next run from X and E respec-

tively through the rings at A, and allowed to

hang loose as at D and B. The bottom of the

curtain should be weighted with shot.

The Choice of Plays. - The choice of plays

will necessarily depend upon the age and talents

of the performers. Simple one act comedies

with three or four persons at most are the beet

to attempt at first. Good dialogues are very

amusing, and their production involves very

little trouble and expense. For children the

plays selected should be as simple and pretty

as possible. For the very tiny tots nothing

will be found more suitable than the simple

fairy tales, such as " Little Red Riding Hood,"

or tales from history, as " King Alfred and the

Cakes." Some very pretty children's plays are

included in the book " Little Plays," by

Lena Dalkeith, which are published at Is. and

Is. 6d., and may be obtained by ordering through

any bookseller.

Very often the " grown-up " organiser of

j\ivenile theatricals will herself have a taste

for dramatic wTiting. She will then be able

to arrange any of the various fairy tales in

accordance with her own idear>. The elder

children will be found to be some-

what more ambitious in regard to their

histrionic efforts. They will &s a rule

wish to emulate the " grown-ups " as

far as possible in their selection of

plays. Some of the simpler comedies

and farces will be found very suitable,

although a certain amount of dis-

cretion must be exercised in their

choice.

Messrs. Samuel French & Co., of

24 Southampton Street, Strand,

London, publish a large selection of

plays for amateurs, and their list

includes the following simple little

pieces : -

"Aiint Jane," by G. H. Pugh, is

a very suitable little play for school-

girls. There are three characters ; the

niiae-en-scine is of the simplest and such as

can be arranged with the utmost ee&e in

any ordinary room. The plot turns upon

the expected arrival of an unknown aunt

to take charge of her little nieces. There is

much conjecture os to what she will be like.

One of the nieces forms the idea of dressing

up as Aunt Jane for the benefit of her

sister, representing her as a very unpleasant

person indeed. Finally the deception is dis-

covered by means of a letter from Aunt Jane

announcing that she is unable to arrive on that

particular day. The tone of her letter indicates

that she is a very nice aunt indeed, and the

curtain goes down on two reaissured and happy

little nieces. The dialogue is brisk and amusing,

whilst it is at the same time simple and easily

memorised.

" Nursery Rhymeia " or " The Party," "' The

Prince and the Pie," by Alfred Paxton (eight

characters), "The Waxworks' Revels," by William

Heighway (eleven characters), are suitable for a

more ambitious performance by a large number

of children at a Christmas party, for instance.

Sometimes the performers will consist only

of boys. In these circumstances preference

should be given to plays in which only male

characters are required, such as in Miss Keating's

•' Plot of Potzcntausend."

One great thing to be borne in mind in regard

to home theatricals is to obviate as far as possible

all danger of fire. Candles should not bo used

as foothghts. It is better to do without foot-

RECREATIONS

527

lights at all than run any risks in this direction.

Where there are electric light pendants con-

veniently placed, nothing will be found easier

than to arrange these in such a manner that

their full hght is reflected on the stage. These,

with the safety-lamps in the wings, should be

all sufficient for lighting purposes in an ordinary

room.

Apart from the necessary wigs and other

paraphernalia, " make up " is not always

necessary when the theatricals take place in a

room of ordinary dimensions where there is no

limelight. In large rooms and halls, however,

make up will be necessary. In his book " Home

Fun," Mr. Cecil H. Bullivant gives very minute

and clear directions in the art of " making up."

He also gives many valuable hints in regard

to the making of home scenery, with the

minimum of outlay. The amateur theatrical

enthusiast cannot do better than purchase a

copy of this book, which will tell her everything

most useful to know in regard to these two very

important essentials in dramatic representation.

The Pastoral Play. - In the svmimer no more

charming entertainment can be devised than

a pastoral play rendered by children. Hostesses

with suitable garden space would do well to

keep this fact in mind. A pastoral play may

also prove a most enjoyable finish to a garden

party. The grounds should be prettily deco-

rated with Japanese lanterns, &c. ; the perfor-

mance should, if possible, be given on a raised

portion of lawn or ground with a slope towards

the audience.

Mention has alread\ been made of the suita-

bility of the fairy scenes from the " Midsummer

Night's Dream " for juvenile performance. These

are also admirably suited for open-air represen-

tation. " Under the Greenwood Tree," by Major

Philip Trevor, is a very pretty little play,

especially suitable for performance out of doors.

The scene is a woodland glade, where a number

I of chOdren are taking part in a " costume "

' picnic, headed by little Molly, Marchioness of

Storr, the child owner of the forest. Molly is

dressed as Berengaria, Queen of Richard I. ; the

others may wear any fancy dresses. In the

course of their revels the children discover Robin

Hood and Maid Marian in the trunk of a tree.

They come to life for a s-pell, and Robin tells

them about the days of King Richard. iMany

bright songs are introduced, and a feature of the

play is a pretty Maypole dance.

Plays for " Grown-Ups."- The choice of plays

for grown - up performei-s is practically un-

limited. Light comedies in one act, such as "Time

is Money " and " Compromising Martha," \vill bo

generally found to bo most suitable for homo

performance.

It should be remembered that when a copy-

right play is to be performed in public for

charity or other pm-pooes, the authorised per-

mission for the performance must be obtained

and a fee (usually one gviinea) paid. Tliis does

not apply, however, to performances given in

private houses where no money is taken for

the seats.

TABLEAUX VIVANTS

For tableaux vivants a good stage manager

is above all essential. Upon her rests the

responsibility of posing the actors and arranging

the setting of the " living picture " in as ei^ec-

tive a manner as possible. The subjects chosen

for the tableaux should be those that can easily

be recognised by the audience, such as charsicters

and scenes from Shakespeare, historical scenes,

favourite fairy tales, representations of famous

pictures or tableaux from famous plays. " Three

Little Maids from School," " Bubbles," " The Sign

of the Cross," " Cinderella," " The Greisha " - all

make pretty pictvires easy of representation. For

the first-named picture three girls in Japanese

costume should be grouped in attitudes typical

of Yum- Yum's " Three Little Maids from School "

song in the " Mikado." For " Bubbles " only one

juvenile actor is necessary. He should have

as far as possible the same cherubic type of

countenance as that of his prototype in Jlillais'

famous picttu-e. Costume and pose should also

be very closely copied. A very simple tableau

is the " Geisha." A girl dressed in a brightly

coloui'ed kimono seated on the ground in oriental

fashion, holding a Japanese sunshade over

her head. " The Sign of the Cross " has long

been a favourite tableau with amateurs. The

poses of Mercia and JIarcus have become

famiUarised to most of us by means of the

many pictures pubUshed of the late Wilson

Barrett's play. One tableau might represent

Mercia holding the cross aloft and Slarcus

bowing down in reverence before it, whilst

another could be illustrative of the well-known

picture, Mercia leading Marcus to the " Light

Beyond." " Cinderella " is anever-popular subject

for tableaux. She might appear in her tattered

dress, seated on the floor gazing into the cinders

with her hands clasped round her knees. There

are many other fairy-tale tableaux dear to the

heart of the little ones, such as *' The Prince

Discovering the Sleeping Beauty," " Dick Whit-

tington resting on his way to London," &c., &c.,

judicious selections from which should present

no difficulty to the stage manager with artistic

ideas and a taste for grouping. When the

pictures are historical, illustrated books on

costume should be studied, such as " British

Costume during Nineteen Centuries," by Sirs.

Charles Ashdown.

The stage manager must before all choose

suitable exponents of the various characters to

be depicted. No tableau should last longer

than three or four minutes at most, and the

various scenes should follow each other aa

quickly as possible. Careful attention should

528

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

be given to the lighting effects, and a drop-

curtain should be arranged as for private

theatricaJs, a person being stationed at either

side for its prompt raising or lowering at a given

signal.

Tlie thoughts of each cheuracter must be

concentrated on the part undertaken and the

onlookers absolutely forgotten. As few as

possible the swjtors should forget that there is

a certain amount of strain in the immovable

poise, otherwise limbs will twitch and the

balance and pose be in peril. With sufficient

practice it will not be difficult to remain in the

attitude fixed upon for the few minutes after

the curtain is Ufted. Impersonators should not

be afraid to breathe regularly, for this prevents

6irtificial rigidity.

CHARADES

One of the most popular indoor enterttdn-

ments for winter evenings, or indoor parties,

both with children and "grown-ups," is to be

found in charades. Not only do they af?ord

amusement to the audience, but the players

themselves obtain a good deal of fun from their

efforts to baffle those who are Ustening to them.

Suppose, for instance, that a " party " is

composed of some twenty people. About five

or six of them are selected to go outside, choose

a word, which can easilj' be split into syllables,

each making a word in itself. When they have

chosen their word they must go in and act

it, gi^'ing a different scene for each syllable, and

finally a scene for the whole word, which latter

the audience are required to guess when the

play is over.

The players must not waste too much time

in planning how best to act the words, or the

audience will show signs of impatience. This

can also be averted by the hostess arranging

for a musical or other little " stop-gap " to fill

up the time which must necessarily elapse

between the moment when the players retire

and their subsf^uent appearance.

Having thought of a little sketch which will

take in all the several parts of the word chosen,

the players arrange impromptu scenery and

start the first act, taking care to bring in the

first syllable, and yet not giving it undue

prominence. Tliis care must be observed all

the way through the charade, as the fun is

much grcattT when the listeners cannot guess

the word too easily.

If the word chosen is " Indignation," it is

split into three syllables - In-dig-nation.

These words having been acted, in the last

scene the complete word is brought in, and as

it is through this act the audirnce will listen

most carefully for a clue, the players, if they

wish to baffle them, should do their best to

bring in a variety of words with the same

number of syllables as those contained in the

word they are acting, in order to mislead the

listeners.

If preferred the various scenes need have no

connection at all with each other, a complete

little play being acted for each syllable and for

the complete word. This often proves the most

enjoyable method, and one that renders the

word much more difficult to giiess.

The more impromptu the organisation of

charades the more enjoyable they will prove.

The players should always " dress up " if

possible, table-cloths, bed-covers, shawls, and

scarves may be requisitioned ; the homelier the

materials to hand the more comical at times

the effect will be. In all cases good fun should

be aimed at, for charades are most successful

when played in a broadly comical spirit. This

applies in the main to impromptu charades,

for when they are prepared for a long time

beforehand as a feature of entertainment for

a party, they should be prepared with as much

care in regard to acting, staging, dress, and

other important details as is entailed in the

rehearsals and preparation of an ordinary play.

A stage manager should always be appointed,

preferably one who is quick to decide upon a

word, and who is adept in the planning out

of suitable scenes. The following words, being

easily subdivided, are suitable for charades, and

may serve as a guide to the selection of others :

Brace-let, care-ful, care-less, can-did, car-pet,

case-ment, dor-mouse, eye-glass, fire-work, grate-

ful, kid-nap, mis-take, night-mare, out-fit, sun-

shine, ac-ci-dent (axe-sea-dent), baron-et-oy

(baron-ate-sea), con -flag-ration, high-way-man,

in-spec-tor, night-in-gale.

Thus from the word " grateful " a very pretty

charade for children could be acted in this way : -

Scene I. - Cinderella is seen dressed in her rags,

gazing into the cinders in the grate. Presently

the shrill voice of one of her sisters is heard

calling " Cinderella, Cinderella ! " The sister

then comes into the room angrily and scolds

Cinderella, asking her why she is wasting her

time gazing into the grate, when she ought to

be helping her to dress for the ball. The sister

should wear a loose dressing wrap, and her

thin wisps of hair should be done up in curl

papers in grotesque fashion. Presently the

other sister comes in, also in grotesque deshabille,

and joins in rating Cinderella. Then the two

step-sisters begin to fight with each other (the

dialogue here can be made very amusing) until,

finally, Cinderella rises in disgust and follows

them into their room to help them dress for the

ball.

Scene II. - Ante-room of the ball-room in the

prince's house. Comical scene between Cinder-

ella's sisters, who have been obliged to sit out

most of the dances, and who cannot even get

into supper because the room is jull. They

discuss the mysterious princess who has arrived

at the ball and har wonderful glass slipper.

EECREATIONS

Suddenly one of the sisters exclaims, " Why,

what is the matter ? there is the princess alone

running away from the palace as fast as her

feet can carry her." The clock strikes twelve.

Scene III. - Cinderella's household once more.

The baron, his wife, Cinderella and her sisters

are all upon the scene. They discuss the pro-

clamation of the prince, declaring he shall marry

the girl whose foot the mysterious glass sUpper

will fit. Quarrelling takes place between the two

sisters as to who has the smaller foot. Baron

and liis wife join in the argument. Baron

declares that neither of them has so small a

foot as Cinderella. The proud sisters and their

mother now turn roimd and abuse both Cinder-

ella and the Baron. Herald's voice outside

proclaiming, "' Oyez, Oyez, make way for his

royal highness the prince." Prince enters

with herald - shoe is tried on first one sister and

then the o+her. They make comical endeavours

to get it to fit, but to no purpose. Then the

prince says, " Have you not another daughter ? "

Sisters reply contemptuously, " Oh, she is

only a little cinder slut ; it would be waste of

time to try it on her." Cinderella advances,

however, and asks for the shoe ; she sits down

whilst the herald tries it on her. It slips on

with the greatest ease. She stands up, throws

off her rags, and appears in the light dress of the

princess. Delight of the prince, who embraces

her, exclaiming, " I shall always be grateftd to

the little glass slipper."

PARLOUR GAMES

The parlour games here described are suitable

either for children's parties, for impromptu Httle

gatherings of young people, or for any quiet

evening in the family circle. It will be found,

as a rule, that amongst a number of young

" grown-ups " the simpler and more cliildish

the game the more the enjoyment to be derived

from it. I have known a game of " hunt the

slipper " keep a gathering of young people of

ages vaiying from sixteen to twenty-three

amused for over an hour. No game has

therefore seemed too simple for inclusion under

Ihe general heading of " Parloiu- Games."

Dumb Crambo. - This game can be made even

more amusing at times than charades, because

ni this case the word must be acted in dumb

'liow, and those who choose the word often

, make a point of choosing one which will call

Uipon all the ingenuity of the actors to repre-

sent it correctly without speaking. HaK of the

ji layers go out of the room whilst the remaining

' ;ilf think of a verb, such as weep, skip, fly, &c.

\Vhen they have chosen their word, one of their

number goes outside to the other players, giving

them a word which rhymes with the word which

they are to act ; thus, if the word chosen was

" drop," she could say it was a word that rhymed

with crop, and so on. With this clue the actors

529

must come in and act in dumb show the word

they think to be the right one. If they are

wrong, their audience hisses and they have to

go out again. If they have guessed right they

are clapped, and at once they take the place of

the others who have to go out and act the word

in their tm-n.

Forfeits. - There are several games which

entail the giving of forfeits, and as these are

always a source of imparalleled dehght for the

young people, the method of crying forfeits,

together with some of the favourite tasks im-

posed, will be described. Anything may be

given by way of forfeit - a handkerchief, ring,

bracelet, tie-pin, &c. The winner of the game,

or the person who has escaped the forfeit penalty,

takes charge of all the forfeits which have been

collected. She then sits down with the players

around her and chooses one of their number to

impose the penalties. The latter has to kneel

down with her face on the Imees of the guardian

of the forfeits, who holds up each article in

turn, saying, "Here's a pretty thing, and a

very pretty thing, and what is the owner of this

pretty thing to do ? "

The person who has to impose the tasks must

exercise her ingenuity in suggesting things which

will promote the most fun. Above all, should

she try to think out " catch " forfeits or tasks

which, through some ingenious turning of words,

will seem almost impossible at first sight to

perform, but which, when correctly interpreted,

will turn out to be quite simple. Some well-

known forfeits are : -

" To stand on one leg in one comer of the

roorn, sing in another, dance in another, and

cry in another."

" To bite two inches from the poker." Tlus is

a well-known " catch," and is done by snapping

your teeth as for a bite two inches away from

the poker. Many a player when set this task

has stood for a long time in bewildered per-

plexity to the hilarious enjoyment of the on-

lookers.

" Put two chairs together, take off your shoes

and jump over them." Another " catch " : to

do this put two chairs together, take off your

shoes and jump over the sfioes, not the chairs.

" Call your sweetheaxt's name up the chim-

ney."

" Place the poker against the floor so that

you cannot jump over it." Also a well-known

" catch " penalty : to do this place the poker

next the wall.

" Recite three verses, each one from a different

poem without stopping."

" Hop upon one foot tliree times round the

room."

" Put yourself out of the room through the

keyhole." Write your name on a slip of paper

and put it througli the keyhole.

" Kiss a book inside and outside without

opening it." Kiss the book first inside the

530

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

room, then take it outside the room and kiss

'' ^^anslata into French a sent^co given by

each member of the company^ J^^Sy "^os^t

productive of great fun, as nov j

nonsensical sentences are given, but also sen

?en^ ^vWch are most difficult of translation,

e^D^allv by the elementary French scholar

eepeciau> u> " ^ -^ " the fire

"Stand upon the tire. vvuvc

nn a Diece of paper and stand upon it.

"' iSi the person you love best in the room.

This may be^ done by kissing your reflection

^"^^rS; of a donkey, a cow, a pig.

* "^wSz^ round the room blindfolded."

" Put out the fire in one minute. Write

" thefii-e " on a piece of paper and put it out

^^^raW forfeits will give indications ^ to

the kind of tasks that may be set Many

ingenious tasks may be thought out in he

home circle. The one chosen to ciy tne

Kts " shovdd always be an adept m calhng

them or else the fun will lag.

Musical Chairs is a very favourite game

f or clulchen's parties ; it is a game also which

s entied upoJ with zest by most jo-g PeoP e

upon any occasion when they ^^f themseKes

gathered together in any ")^"^^f % ,,^* ^^!

!ften been the means of turmng a duU even

ing into an extremely merry one. First of all

some one mvist be able to play the P-"- J^^J

need not be too particular as to the quai ty

of her playing, but the more at ease she is with

the Piano keys the greater will be the enjoyment

of the gamef for slS will rattle along when she

U expected lo stop playing, and Btop when she

:Seoted to pla'y.^o that the d^^gM -^0№-

fusion of the game will be increased to a rema k

able degree, whilst with a slower, besitatmg

Pianist the un would be apt to lag. A row of

E is arranged down the middle of the room

alternate chaL facing di"- ^ ^^han TSe

chairs must be one less in number than Uie

people who are playing. As soon as the music

starts the players must dance round and round

;?e^h^rs,\nd directly the music ceases each

player mu'st seat herself. Of -^--"^"^ ^^7"

is one chair short one of the players will be

left out'and the fun begins with the scrimmage

to obtain seats as soon as the music stops, lor

Lh player who is left out a cha.r is taken away

until there is only one chair l^^t. Of the f^o

people who remain to contest this chair the

?ne wh^ is first seated when the music stops

;"L the game. Sometimes musical chairs ,

played with forfeits, each player having to give

a forfeit as she falls out of the game, the winner

" callinc the forfeits " at the end.

&veo?muchfun' To each player is given a

pencil and a piece of paper, and the game is

played as follows : -

AU players are told to write down an adjective

that can be appUed to a gentleman. Havmg

done this they fold over the paper at the top

to liide what they have written. Then each

player hands her slip to the neighbour on her

left so that each receives a different slip to

write on. On this they nmst now write a

gentleman's name, after which they must pass

on the papers in the same manner as t>eforo

and this must go on until they have finished

all that is to be written. Consequences usually

run in the following order :-

Give an adjective applicable to a man.

Give a man's name.

Give an adjective descriptive of a woman.

Give a woman's name.

Say where they met.

Say what he said to her.

Say what she said to him.

Say what he gave her.

Say what she did with it.

Say what she gave him.

Say what he did with it.

Say what the consequences were.

Say what the world said.

When all these questions have been answered

the papers are opened and ^ead aloud, and it

can be imagined that, owing to their chang ng

hands so frequently and no single one of the

p?ayers^ing\ware what the others have said,

their contents are very funny. ^i"vprl

Literary Consequences.-This game is played

in a similar manner to Consequences, each

player Sg provided with pencil and paper

SnTin^ead of the name of a P-son .^^-^ №*

a book is taken. It is played as follows -

(1) Each player writes down the title ot a

book.

(2) The sub -title.

(3) The author.

(4) His collaborator.

(5) Wliere pubUshed.

(6) What the reviewers said about it.

(7) The consequences.

IS) Wliat the world said.

It can be well imagined that the sequence is

ant to be somewhat funny at times,

^composite Drawlng.-This is a game not

unlike consequences, only drawing must take

the place of writing. Each player is handed

a'iet of paper and pencil. On t^- ^^^^ ^^ ^

tho head of a man. wonrian. ^^^l^'.^'^.^^^^f 'j^^[.

fish Wlien finished, the paper is folded ovei

ctfuny to bide the drawing and^^en handed I

on to the player on the 1^^^, ,Tbf";,,''№S

is drawn, the paper is again ^^^d^^ "^^^^^^^'^

passed on, and the legs and feet are drawn^

VVhen the papers are opened out some very

amusing resSus -->' ''^ ,^7'^" Vle^ of a

head upon the body of a lady with the legs oi a

horse.

RECREATIONS

General Post, - This is a most amusing game

for a number of players. One of the party is

blindfolded and called the postman. Another

of the players directs the game, and is called

the postmaster-general ; the others are seated

round the room. The postmaster gives to each

player the name of a town - needless to say, these

names must be carefully remembered by all.

Then the game begins. The postmaster calls

out the names of various towns to which he

wishes to post a letter. The players who bear

the names of these towns must immediately

exchange seats. For instance, if he says, " I

wish to send a letter from London to Dublin,"

the players who have been named after these

towns must at once get up and change places

whilst the postman tries to take one of the

vacant chairs. If he is successful in this the

player whose seat he has taken must become

postman. When played with "zest this game

soon becomes a most enjoyable romp, which

can be entered into heartily by both young

and old.

Variations of Blind Man's Buff.- There are

many variations of this simple and amusing

game. As is generally known, the game which

earned this name originally is played by blind-

folding one of the players with a handkerchief

or scarf. All the players dance round the blind

man, running away from him when he gets

too near. The blind man must not only catch

one of them, but also be able to identify his

captive. If he can do this the latter must

take his turn at being blind man.

Another way of pla-^ing the game is to give

the blmd man two spoons. With these he must

feel his captive in order to identify him instead

of feeling with his hands. This, of course, makes

the task much more difficult.

In yet another version of the game the blind

man is made to stand in the centre of the room ;

he must have a stick in his hand. The players

form a ring, and dance around him until he

taps the gTound with his stick. Then he points

his stick towards one of the players, who has to

answer any question the blind man asks, and

the latter to guess his identity by his voice.

Needless to say, the players mast disgxiise their

voices as far as possible in order to baffle their

interlocutor. As soon as the latter has guessed

the name of the person whom he has questioned,

he can change places with the latter, who must

be " blind man " in his turn.

Musical Buff is yet another version of this

game. A person is stationed in each corner

of the apartment, then one of the party is

bhndfolded and led into the centre of the room.

The director of the game points to each of the

four in succession, and each says in a separate

clear tone the word " Come." Wlien the word

has been said by each in turn, the blind man

endeavom-s to find his way to.s-ards the person

who spoke last.

531

Proverbs.- One of the party retires while the

rest decide upon a well-known proverb. When

he returns, he stands in the centre of a semi-

cu-cle. Some one taps three times with a stick

and at the third tap each player shouts one

word of the proverb loudly and simultaneously.

This IS repeated three times, and it is amazing

how difficult it is to distinguish even the most

well-known proverb in the uproar.

Should one word give the key to the player

not m the secret, the individual who speaks it

takes his place. For instance, in the proverb

All is not gold that glitters," it may happen

that the word " glitters " provides the keynote,

iherefore, he or she who speaks it takes the

place of the one who guesses.

The proverb must contain as many words as

there are players, and each shouts only the one

word allotted to him.

Another way of playing the game is for the

person who has to guess the proverb to ask each

player m tuz-n a question. Each must introduce

in her answer a word from the proverb

The Game of Shadows.- A white sheet is

stretched against the wall, with a lamp im-

mediately before it. All other lights are ex-

tinguished. One of the company sits on a

chair or stool with eyes fixed on the sheet

Behind him the company files noiselessly, the

while he endeavours to identify them by means

ot the shadows silhouetted on the screen.

Simple disguises are allowable and increase

the fun. For example, a boy may don a girl's

hat, a girl a boy's ; or a skirt or shawl may be

draped over an Eton suit, thus conceaHng the

wearer's identity. The one whose shadow be-

trays her takes the place of the player who

identifies her.

Gardeners.- Two rows, headed by a chosen

captain, face each other. In turn they fire at

each other the names of vegetables, flowers, or

fruit beginning with the letter A, and using in

tiu-n the other letters of the alphabet- asparagus

artichokes, apples, &c. '

The players on each side set their wits to work

to aid their captain when he shows signs of

faltering. They are not allowed to speak aloud,

their promptings being given in whispers, and

this IS where the fun comes in, for, when one

IS excited and eager to give a word, it is very

difficult to remember to whisper, especially when

placed at the tail of the line.

When a gardener and his side pause to re-

member a word the opposite side counts twenty

slowly ; if at the end of that time their opponents

still fail, they forfeit a man. Tlio game goes

on until one captain has secured his adversaries'

followers. Should any one except the leaders

speak aloud, ho or she is obliged to cross to the

other party.

When a captain surrenders he is obliged to go

to the end of the line, and the next man takes

his place and responsibilities.

532

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Tidings. - Each player adopts some trade or

profession. One member reads out the social

gossip from a daily paper. \Vlien he pauses

and points at one of the rest, that one must

reply quickly some sentence regarding liis call-

ing or the stock ho sells, for instance -

Reader. - '-The ball that took place at the

residence of the Hon. iMrs. Mortimer last evening

was distinguished by the presence of His Majesty

the I^ng.

•" A number of d6butantes were present, the

majority of whom were dressed in - " Here the

reader glances at the Cfirpenter, who answers,

" Shavings." ^^

Reader - " Their headgear consisted of

(glances at the fruiterer) -

Fruiterer - " Pine-apples."

Reader - " Their jewels were necklaces "

(glances at the ironmonger) -

Jrontnonger - " Of nails."

Reader - " Tlie dancing took place in - "

Tobacconist - " A cigar box."

Reader - " The walls of which were richly

decorated with - "

Lawyer - " Red tape."

Reader - " The band was composed of forty

instruments all - "

Doctor - " Medicine bottles."

Repder - " His ^Majesty's first partner was - "

Fishmonger - " A whiting."

Reader - " \Vho was most becomingly clad

in - "

Chemist - " Silver scales."

Reader - " Her bouquet was composed of - "

Draper - " Reels of cotton."

Reader - " And her tiny feet were cased in - "

Mason - " Bricks."

Reader - " Her dancing was as light as - "

Plumber - " A gas escape."

Reader - " And her charming smiles showed

to view a perfect set of - "

Bootmaker - " Black heels."

It can be imagined from this example

the merriment and laughter similar answers

evoke.

The Lawyer. - The party is divided into two

rows, through which walks the lawyer. He asks

a number of questions, and the answers may

contain any words except " yes," " no,"

" white," " black."

The person to whom ho puts his query does

not reply, but the one immediately opposite

does.

The lawyer exchanges places with the one

who makes the first mistake.

An Example

Laioyer (pointing to Mary) - " Your hair is

very long ; is it your own ? "

Tom opposite bawls, " False."

To Jessie - " Do these pretty boots pinch

your feet ? "

Jack - " Of course, they are two sizes too

small."

To John - " Did you use your razor this

morning 1 "

Jane - " He hasn't any hair to cut."

To Timothy - " Is your nurse waiting to put

you to bed ? "

Elsie - " Naturally ; he goes to bed at seven."

To Dick - " What would you like on your

next birthday ? "

Ethel - " A rattle."

To James - " Wliat is your favourite pas-

time ? "

jilice - " Putting dolly to bed."

To Freda - " What is the colour of your face ? "

Andrew (afraid to say " white " for fear of

forfeit) - " Green."

The Lover's Coming. - All the members of the

party save one are massed together at the end

of the room. The leader walks close to them,

and throws a light rubber ball towards any

person she likes.

The person must be prepared to catch the

ball. As the leader throws it she accompanies

the action with these words, " My lover comes

thus " - the ball is tossed in a way to illustrate

the manner of the supposed lover. The thrower

terminates her sentence by a letter of the

alphabet. The one to whom the ball is thrown

has to provide an adjective beginning with the

given letter as she catches the ball, thus : -

Leader - " My lover comes g " (throws ball).

Catcher - " Gaily " (tosses ball back).

Leader - " My lover comes h."

Catcher - " Hopping."

Leader - " My lover comes o."

Catcher - " One-eyed."

Leader - " My lover comes s."

Catcher - " Smirking."

Excitement is caused by the difficulty in

producing a word at a moment's notice an"l

being ready to catch the ball at the same time.

Telegrams. - Each player is provided with

paper and pencil, upon which any twelve letters

are written, with sufficient space lelt between

for words.

The leader gives a topic such as a wedding,

accident, invitation, &c. A watch is placed on

the table, and from ten to fifteen minutes given,

during which each player concocts a telegram

from the letters suppUed by his left-hand

neighbour.

At a signal the telegrams are thrust under a

hat and read out in turn by the leader.

Example 1. - Topic : a sensational robbery.

S. B. O. B.

H. M. J. P.

K. I. P. H.

From these letters may bo.devised the following

telegram : - " Serious burglary ; one box hairpins

missing. Jane prostrate ; kindly inform police

- Henry."

RECREATIONS

533

Example 2. - Topio : a catastrophe.

" Cat ate Sunday dinner. Please bring cheese

and bread ; quite distracted - Wifie."

The funnier the telegram, the greater the

laughter when it is read out.

The Fan Fight. - The players divide into two

lines. A piece of tape is stretched across the

room, and before every two plaj'^ers a feather

is placed. Each player possesses a Japanese fan,

and the object is to lift the feather and waft

it on to a stretch of newspaper, which marks

the opponents' den.

The dens are guarded by goalkeepers, also

armed with fans, and their business is a lively

one.

Feathers must not be blown or pushed with

the hand, as happens sometimes when the

excitement of the game makes one forgetful

of all else but the threatening direction the

feather is taking. Only the fan is to be used.

The feathers should be of different colours.

When one of a side succeeds in driving a feather

into the opposite den, he and his adversary

retire from the game, but naturally they share

the prevailing excitement and watch every

movement of their respective sides, cheering

and encouraging them to win.

When the feathers belonging to one side are

all captured in a den, the other side is con-

queror.

Magic Hieroglyphics. - For this seemingly

mysterious achievement a confederate is required.

He must know that -

A is shown by one tap beca'ose it is the first

vowel.

E is shown by two taps because it is the second

vowel.

I is shown by three taps because it is the third

vowel.

O is shown by four taps because it is the fourth

vowel.

U is shown by five taps because it is the fifth

vowel.

Consonants are revealed by means of sentences,

which the wizard speaks in a natural and un-

ostentatious manner.

The confederate is banished from the room

while the party decide upon the word he shall

be called upon to guess. Monosyllables are

preferable.

When he returns the wizard is armed with

a wand, by means of which he proceeds to make

imaginary pictures on the carpet.

Supposing the word to bo " orange." He begins

with four taps, and the confederate, who is all

attention, knows that Lhe word begins with

the fourth vowel, O.

The wizard, flourishing his wand, remarks with

extreme innocence : -

" Rather fatiguing work, as you perceive."

The confederate says to himself R.

One tap is the next sound for A.

And some sentence such a.s -

" No one can imagine the mental strain,"

suppUes the letter N to his alert companion.

The wizard's query, voiced in a mocking tone -

" Getting near it ? " supplies the letter G.

A few more imaginary pictures, and two taps,

which represent the letter E, and the confede-

rate with an air of profound relief wipes his

brow and declares confidentially that the word

is " orange."

Result. - The company applaud loudly, and

are thoroughly mystified.

The Auction Game. - This is a most fascinating

resource for a wet wintry afternoon, and its

preparations are interesting enough to keep a

whole houseful of young folk occupied and

amused. A large piece of cardboard is cut into

twenty-five squares, and on each is pasted a

pictiu-e of some article taken from advertisements

in old newspapers, magazines, or catalogues.

The pictiu-es are numbered, and on the back a

price in keeping with the article is written.

The more variety there is among the stock

for sale the better. It may contain anything

from a thoroughbred Persian to a set of nine-

pins, and the prices may be copied from tho

catalogues, &c.

Wlien this is done, a mint of paper or card-

board money is manufactured. The range of

coin corresponds to the prices of the articles.

Should the most expensive of these be marked

£100, the paper money must include that

amount. Upon each disc of cardboard is

written its value.

Tlie guests ha\^ng arrived, the capital is

divided among them in equal portions. If there

has been no time to manufacture the coin,

imitation money can be purchased quite cheaply,

and this lends a greater reality to the game.

The first thing is to secure an auctioneer

amongst the party, who possesses a ready flow

of language, and is not troubled by shyness.

An amiable uncle or other grown-up relative

u-ill do capitally.

The auctioneer stands on a chair or stool

and cries out the article before him, treating it

as if it were real.

He is provided with a hammer, and the com-

pany begin an eager bidding for the tiling that

takes their fancy.

Tlie players, as may be expected, are as

anxious as people in a real auction to obtain

what they covet at the lowest price possible.

Should a member offer more than he is able

to pay, and succeed in being the last to name

the highest price, he pays a forfeit of threepence

to each of the other buyers, and the article is

again placed on the auctioneer's table.

534

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

The winner is the indi\-idual who has got

tlie best value for lus money, and has the most

capital in hand by the time the twenty-fivo

articles are sold.

It is a good plan to offer prizes- a good one

for the discreet and careful buyer, and a

" booby " for the poor foolish spendthrift, who

has nothing to show at the end of the game.

Excitement and eagerness are increased by

the cry of the auctioneer, " Going, going, gone,"

and the beat of lus hammer.

If he is able to introduce funny narratives

concerning the articles into his harangue, so

much the better.

For instance, a pair of boots, fashioned from

the corpse of the King of Prussia's pet calf,

and the black kid gloves which King Charles

II. wore at the funeral of liis great-aunt ; the

mouse-trap that once held prisoner a rodent

of aristocratic lineage and purple blood; the

ash-tray into which the biu-nt cigar of Peter

the Great is supposed to have fallen - all should

go at a lugh price.

The Whistle, another excellent game, is

played in the following manner : -

One of the company is blindfolded, and a

long ribbon, through which is threaded a whistle,

is pinned to his back, and he is told that he

musi catch the blower and discover the whistle.

Of course he has no idea that it is on his own

person.

He is swung into the centre of the room, and

his playmates make surreptitious dives at the

whistle and raise it to their lips, taking care

not to stretch the ribbon so that he will feel

the tug.

Perfect silence should bo maintained by those

eddying round him ; they move on tip-toe,

with bated breath, but now and then sounds of

stifled laughter are heard.

The " blind " man seeks liigh and low for

the possessor of the whistle, his ears strained

to catch the direction of the sound. He may

succeed in embracing a youth or damsel, but his

search round the neck, waist, or in her fingers

for the missing whistle is futile.

It will be long ere ho guesses the secret, if he

ever does, and the delight of young and old

at his expense is hilarious.

The Poet's Comer. - Tliis is an excellent and

ingenious pastime for young men and women

who have out-grown the old-world games of

" Hunt the Slipper " and " Hide and Sock."

The " poets " are each given a slip of paper

and pencil, at the head of which they write

any question they like. Wlien this is written,

the papers are folded, so that the sentence is

concealed and passed on to the left-hand

neighbour, who, without looking at the question,

writes any word she likes beneath so long as it

is a noim. This is again concealed and passed

to a third party, who must compose a rh>-thm

or stanza, which includes both question and

noim. As these have no relation to each other,

some ingenuity is needed to link the two in a

verse.

For example, suppose the question given is

as follows : -

Qxiestion - " What is the time ? "

Noun - " Chair."

Verse

" What is the time ? " Grandfather asks.

Tliis is one of the pleasant tasks

He sets the cliildren from his chair.

And round eyes at the timepiece stare.

I/ittle Alice reads the time -

The old clock helps her, and chimes out nine.

Or-

Question - " Wliat is your age ? "

ISloun - " Cigar."

Name Divinations.- This is a clever puzzle

game, which seems to the beholder to be steeped

fn magic and mystery. In order to discover

the name or birthplace of a person, the following

table of five columns is necessary : -

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

The manipulator shows the table to t'.a

individual whose name he wishes to discover,

asking him to point out the column ur columns

that contain the initial letter. A glance at the

table will show that if it is in only one colum!.

it must be the top letter. Should it be found

to be in more than one, it is discovered by

adding the first letters of the columns in which

it is stated to be, the sum supplying the alpha-

betical position of the letter. For example,

take the name " Elizabeth."

Elizabeth glancf^s at the table and looks for

the columns in which her initial letter occurs.

It is obvious that she must be careful not to

overlook this repetition. She informs you that

it is to be found in columns I and 3. Now, the

columns mentioned are topped by the letters

A and D, which are the first and fourth letters

of the alphabet. Add those together and you

get 5. E is the fifth letter. In case you forget

it, write it on a slip of paper. The next letter,

Elizabeth informs you, occurs in columns 3 and

4. These are headed by D and H = 4-j-8=12.

RECREATIONS

635

Tlie twelfth letter is L. Columns 1 and 4 contain

I, headed bj' A and H= 1 + 8 = 9. The ninth

letter is I. Z is found in columns 2 and 4 and 5,

headed by B, H and ? = 2 + 8+ 16 = 26. The

twenty-sixth letter is Z. The next letter exists

only in column No. 1, therefore it is A. The

next letter exists only in column No. 1, therefore

it is B. The next letter exists only in columns

1 and 3. The top letters of these, A and D =

1+4=5. The fifth letter is E.

T is found in columns 3 and 5. Top letters

D and P = 4+16 = 20. The twentieth letter is

H occm's in column 4, thei'efore it is the top

letter, H.

Result - Elizabeth.

Wizard Photography. - The wizard, who pos-

sesses a confederate, is banished from the room.

During his absence the latter produces a piece

of paper, and declares his intention of taking a

photograph of any individual among the com-

pany upon it, in such a manner that it shall

be visible to the wizard alone, who, upon

examining it closely, will call out the name of

the original.

Naturally every one considers that this must

be quite an impossible proceeding, and for that

reason every one becomes very curious and

watchful, making up his mind to discover the

trick.

The confederate fixes upon one of the company,

poses her to his satisfaction, tells her not to

look grave, &c., just as professional photographers

do, and when she is quite ready and gazing

at the sheet of paper, which is held out in the

manipulator's left hand, he passes his right over

it, snaps his fingers, and tells her that the wonder

is accomplished.

He hastens to wrap the " plate " in his

handkercliief, and, calling in the wizard, hands

it to him, retiring to a seat where the latter

can observe him without appearing to do so.

The wizard, looking very mysterious and wise,

bids the company maintain an unbroken silence

while he unwraps and examines the " plate."

His confederate meanwhile imitates as nearly

as possible the position of the original of the

photograph.

Should she cross her feet, toss back her hair,

1 ost her chin on her hand, (jr perform anj' other

trivial action, the confederate does the same,

quite naturally so as not to aroiise any sus-

picion or notice. All attention being con-

(lontrated on the wizard, his actions will not be

observed by any one save the manipulator,

who is led by the position he assumes to guess

the individual whose likeness on the " plate "

is supposed to be visible to him alone.

Few would realise until they try the game

the wonder and admiration of the guests for the

wizard who successfully achieves his purpose, and

the means employed an seldom, if ever, dis-

covered.

The Missing Ring. - A plain cwtain ring is

tlireaded through a piece of tape or ribbon,

knotted at the ends. The guests form a circle

round a central figure. The ring is passed

swiftly along through hands gi'ipping the tape,

wliile the master of ceremonies counts one, two.

At three, all fists must be threaded by the

tape and perfectly motionless, and the man in

the centre, who is permitted to observe the

circuit of the ring, is called upon to say which

person h"is possession of it. Should he guess

rightly, he changes places with the individual -

Apples and Nuts. - Slix a number of hazel nuta

and apples together on a table removed from

the wall ; hand a tea-spoon and table knife to

each of the guests. Bid them at a given signal

move to the table, with the knife in the right

hand, the spoon in the left, and scoop up one

apple and one nut. This is no easy matter on

a smooth surface, for the probabihty is that

the fruit and nuts will roll to the floor.

When they are secured, they must be conveyed

to a dish at the other end of the room. He

who performs this feat successfully the most

times wins, and the apples and nuts are awarded

him as a prize.

Amiable Dog. - The party is divided into two

lines. Tlie first player begins by saying, " Our

Httle dog is amiable." The first player on the

opposite side must answer quickly with another

adjective beginning with the same letter thus,

" Our httle dog is artful." Meanwhile, the first

player counts ten. If in that time his opponent

fails to respond, he is obliged to go over to the

opposite rank. Other letters of the alphabet may

be used. The side that gains all the " men "

wins.

Bouts Rim6s. - This is a very amusing writing

game. The players are provided -vnth pencils and

paper and each one is required to wTite down a

line of poetry. After this is done the paper is

folded down, but the last word of the hne is

written under the fold, so that it can be seen

by the next person who has the shp. The

latter must make her line of poetry rhyme with

this word. As can well be imagined, the verses

when complete nearly always make most comical

reading.

Waxworks. - This is a game dearly loved by

the little ones. The leader of the game must

arrange all the others in various positions, giving

them different characters or actions to represent.

Thus one may be told to represent a Chinese

mandarin. She will squat on the floor, her

hands raised above her head. A couple of

players will be placed in position for a waltz,

others may be told off to represent marionettes,

well-known advertisement pictm-es, cat ohtising

a mouse, &c., &o. When the groups are all

arranged, the director of the game goes to the

piano and begins to play a lively air. As soon

as the music starts the waxworks must move

into action - the nodding mandarin begins to

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

53G

nod, the dancers to dance, the marionettes to

act, the oat to chase the mouse, &c., &c. Wlien

the music stops they must at once relapse into

immobiUty. No matter wliat their position at

the time, the more difficult it is to at once

become motionless, and the more ridiculous the

attitudes of the various players when the music

stops, the more fun the game will be. Those

who do not stop at once with the music must

pay a forfeit. Sometimes in playing tliis game

the players are divided into two parties, one

party of players helping to pose the others for

their parts and keeping watch in regard to those

who are subject to forfeits, and helping the

leader in this way. When the players are very

numerous this is decidedly the better method

to adopt.

Coflee-Pot.- One of the players goes out of the

room whilst the remainder choose a word which

has two meanings, such as " can," which can

be used in the sense of " can " the verb and

"• can " the noun. When they have chosen the

word the player comes in and asks each of

the company a nimaber of questions in his

endeavour to guess the word. The word coffee-

pot has to be vised in the answer instead of the

word selected, thus if "can" were the word

selected and the answer were " I cannot do

BO," the player should reply, " I coffee-pot not

do BO."

CHRISTMAS PARTIES

At Christmas parties, at which guests of all

ages are found, it is sometimes a perplexing

riddle to the hostess to know how to entertain

them all. Musical items which may deUght

the older members of the company may only

serve to render younger folk restless and d\jll,

and dancing is not always possible in rooms

of limited size. iMoreover, there are still many

young folk who are unable to set their feet

nimbly to waltz or two-step, and would much

prefer a romp to whirling round in time to a

measure.

Self-consciousness and shyness are usually

very evident when the party enters the drawing-

room, and this coating of ice, if not thawed

quickly, will rapidly freeze into impenetrable

restraint and gloom. At such times a good

game, quickly organised, is invaluable. The

rules B);ould be explained by the hostess in so

simple a manner that the youngest person can

follow them, and everything necessary should

be arranged beforehand to avoid awkward delays

and pauses.

The hostess can make her selection of games

from those detailed in the list of indoor amuse-

ments. Let the revels be of the simplest.

" Musical Chairs " and " Hunt the Slipper "

are great favourites with the children - any

game which entails the crying of forfeits are

also liighly appreciated. A feature should

always bo mswJe of a Christmas tree and the dis-

tribution of toys. This may bo done in many

ways. Either one of the grown-ups could dress

up as Father Christmas in the trsKlitional red

robe, a long wlute wig and beard, and hand the

presents to the little guests, or else the gifts

could be distributed by lottery. For this each

article upon the tree should have a ticket pinned

to it on which a number is written. Duplicates

of these tickets should be placed into a bag,

and each little guest should be asked to draw

a nvunber, receiving the gift to which the ntimber

he or she has drawn corresponds. Plenty of

excitement attends this method of distributing

Christmas presents. Then the presents may be

obtained by means of "lucky dips" in the

bran tub. For this a large tub is half filled

with bran in which the various gifts are hidden,

and each httle guest is allowed a " dip," becoming

the proud possessor of whatever gift he or she

withdraws.

The Christmas Postman. - Another novel man-

ner of distributing Christmas presents is the

following : -

Each gift is tied up in a neat brown-paper

parcel upon which is written the name of the

child to whom it is to be given. One of the

elder children of the hostess is dressed up as

a postman carrying a big sack containing the

gifts over his shoulder. After tea, at the time

arranged for the gift distribution, all the Uttle

guests are assembled together. The child who

is to enact the role of postman is taken outside

and dressed up for the part. Presently there

is a loud rat-tat at the door- a postman s

knock. The hostess goes to answer the door

and comes back saying, " The postman wishes

to see I^Iiss X." The little guest bearmg the

name mentioned is led outside and the door

closed behind her. The postman then hands

her the parcel containing her gift, and she comes

back into the room again all excitement and

curiosity until she reaches her place and other

eager fingers help her to undo the string and

find out what the parcel contains. Then comes

another rat-tat and another little guest is asked

for, and so on until all the presents are dis-

tributed.

Decorating the Christmas Tree is a labour ot

love with the grown-ups. The tree should be

as large a one as possible and firmly planted in

a small wooden tub painted green. The space

immediately round the tree should be kept

clear by an impromptu partition consisting of

four posts connected by a rope or chain. This

will prevent the little ones getting too close to

it when the candles are lighted, and obviate

any risk of accident by fire. All risks in this

direction should be minimised as far as possible.

Many a children's party has ended in disaster

through neglect of this all-important precaution.

No romping of any kind should be allowed whilst

the present distribution is taking place. Indeed

RECREATIONS

537

it is better to make a rule that the little guests

should be seated where they may obtain a good

view of the tree, and forms should be arranged

opposite, but not too near the tree for this

purpose. There should always be a fairy queen

doll in a white and gold or white and silver

spangled dress at the top of the tree. With

the little girls this proves to be the most coveted

present - ^many a little heart beats high in

anticipation of winning so pleasing a gift. The

heavier gifts should not hang from the tree,

but should be arranged neatly along the top of

the tub in which the Christmas tree stands. The

decoration of the tree itself should be as light

and bright as possible. Plenty of golden and

silver balls and other ornaments sold specially

for the purpose should adorn its branches, such as

Father Christmases filled with sweets, bon-bons,

Christmas stockings, flags, &c., &c. Boxes of

Christmas-tree ornaments may be obtained from

most large stores and sweet shops from Is.

each and upwards according to quality. Pieces

of cotton wool resting lightly upon the branches

give a very pretty " snow-flake " effect, but

here again the utmost care must be taken that

they are not placed anywhere near the candles,

as cotton wool is most inflammable. A penny

box of frosting should also be brought into

requisition and sprinkled upon the branches of

the tree. This will give a most pretty shining

effect when the candles are Ughted. A Christmas

tree is by no means an expensive item if the orna-

ments and gifts are chosen with care and dis-

cretion. Little things, however simple, please

little people. It is the excitement of having

gifts distributed in the manner characteristic

of the Christmas season which appeals to them,

and not the value of the gifts themselves.

Some Novel Tea-Parties. - There are a ntunber

of novel and enjoyable little functions that

may be planned by those whose means are

limited, yet who are obliged to make some

return for hospitaUty received. " The Adver-

tisement Tea " is one of the most entertaining

of these, and its preparation does not entail

much trouble. A large number of pictorial

advertisements should be neatly cut from

magazines and other periodicals. All letter-

press of any kind which might serve as a clue

to the name of the jidvortiser should be cut

away from the pictures, wliich should be neatly

pinned to the wall in a way that will not damage

the wall-paper. Each advertisement should be

numbered. After tea the guests should be

taken into the room where the pictures are

displayed, and seats should be arranged for

the players in such a way that each one will

be ablo to have a good view of them. Strict

silence should be enjoined, and to each player

must be handed a slip of paper and a pencil

on which she must mark down the number of

each picture, writing aftjr it the name of the

advertisement which the pictm-e represents.

Two prizes should be given - one for the lady

and one for the gentleman who puts down the

highest number of correct names.

Book Teas. - These are always entertain-

ing functions. Tlaey can be given in a variety

of ways, one of the most amusing and the least

expensive of which is the following method : -

In each letter of invitation it should be

explained that a book tea is to be given under

the following conditions : -

(1) Each guest must illustrate the name of

a book by some accessory or ornament to his

or lier dress.

(2) No accessory must cost more than a

shilling.

(3) Two prizes to be given - one lady's prize

and one gentleman's prize for the most original

idea for illustrating a title.

(4) Each guest must hand to the hostess a

slip of paper upon which is written the name

of the book she is supposed to represent.

When all the guests have arrived, the hostess

gives each a number to pin on the front of her

dress. She then bids them all be seated, and,

after enjoining strict silence, asks them to each

wTite down upon a list the names of the books

represented, after the number of each im-

personator. This must be done in quarter of

an hour, and the papers handed in to the

hostess. After tea the different lists are corai-

pared with the names upon the Ust of the

hostess, and the guest who has made the greatest

number of correct solutions wins the " guessing "

prize, which is awarded at the same time as the

prize for the most original idea.

Upon arrival each guest must be shown

into a dressing-room in order to dress for the

part.

The following are instances of some successful

methods of title illustration adopted at one

of these teas : -

One guest represented " The Lilac Simbonnet,"

by Crockett, by wearing a lilac sunbonnet.

Another came as " Vanity Fair." She carried

in one hand a looking-glass, her cheeks were

rouged, and a powder piaff dangled from a

chain round her neck.

Another came as " The Scarlet Letter," by

N. Hawthorne. An enormous " L " cut out in

scarlet paper was pinned to the front of her

bodice.

Some hostesses make it a stipulation that

only " new books " must be represented. Need-

less to say, a good knowledge of books is one

of the essentials to winning the " guessing "

prize.

Book teas can also be given for children. The

titles should, of course, in this case be illustrative

of children's books.

General Knowledge. - Upon a table in one of

the reception rooms arrange plates containing

a sample of some household commodity, such

as ground rice, starch, arrowroot, flour, &o.

538

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

A ticket beanng a number should be placed upon

each plate.

After t a piece of paix>r, and ask them to write down

the correct name of each art iclo after the number

of the plate whicli contains it. But they must

on xio account taste the article ; they may only

smell it. It is surprising how difficult it is to

guess correctly by smell and touch only, and

the game becomes a very interesting one indeed.

A prize is awarded to the person who guesses

the largest nvunber of the articles correctlj'.

TELLING FORTUNES BY CARDS AND DICE

There is no more amusing diversion for a

frivolous half-hoiu-'s entertainment than that of

fortune-telling by cards. Young or old enjoy

it, and with a ready tongue the combinations

presented may be so varied that quite sur-

prisingly good predictions can be made.

Surround the whole business with as much

mystery as possible. Insist that all shuffling

be done by the subject himself, and that cutting

is always carried out with the left hand.

Learn the meanings of the cards by heart.

This is not difficult, and by doing so one is

enabled to tell a fortune quickly - always a

moie impressive proceeding than telUng it card

by card.

These are the generally accepted meanings

of the cards : -

Clubs. - Ace of Clubs, wealth and prosperity.

King of Clubs, upright, affectionate. Queen of

Clubs, deeply in love. Knave of Clubs, generous

and sincere. Ten of Clubs, o fortune from an

unexpected quarter. Nine of Clubs, obstinacy ;

disputes with friends. Eight of Clubs, a love of

money. Seven of Clubs, fortune and great happi-

ness. Six of Clubs, a lucrative partnership. Five

of Clubs, marriage with a wealthy person. Foixr

of Clubs, inconstancy. Three of Clubs, a second

or third marriage. Two of Clubs, opposition.

Spades. - Ace of Spades, a love affair ; if

reversed, a death. King of Spades, an ambitious

person. Queen of Spades, o treacherous friend.

Knave of Spades, indolent, but well-meaning.

Ten of spades, an unlucky card. Nine of spades,

the worst card in the pack ; sickness, or loss of

fortune. Eight of Spades, opposition from

friends. Seven of Spades, sorrow. Six of

Spades, great fortune. Five of Spades, success ;

a happy marriage. Four of Spades, illness ;

small loss of money. Three of Spades, an un-

fortunate marriage. Two of Spades, a death.

Hearts. - Ace of Hearts, pleasure ; if with

Spades, quarrelling ; if with Diamwids, news of

an absent friend ; if tvith Clubs, merry-making.

King of Hearts, nice, but hasty and passionate.

Queen of hearts, fair, affectionate. Knave of

Hearts, the subjecVs dearest friend. Ten of

Hearts, the antidote of bad cards that lie near

it, but confirming the good. Nine of Hearts,

wealth ; this is also the wish card. Eight of

Hearts, feasting and merry-making. Seven of

Hearts, fickle. Six of Hearts, generous, easily

imposed upon. Five of Hearts, wavcrer ; change-

able. Four of Hearts, marriage late in life.

Three of Hearts, imprudent ; hot-headed action,

which has disastrous consequences. Two of

Hearts, extraordinary success and good fortune.

Diamonds. - Ace of Diamonds, o letter ; the

card next to it will indicate its nature. King

of Diamonds, hot-tempered. Queen of Diamonds,

a coquette. Knave of Diamonds, a selfish person.

Ten of Diamonds, money. Nine of Diamonds,

o roving person. Eight of Diamonds, marriage

late in life. Seven of Diamonds, a gambler.

Six of Diamonds, early marriage. Five of

Diamonds, friendship. Four of Diamonds, tin-

happy marriage. Three of Diamonds, quarrels,

law-suits, and disagreements. Two of Diamonds,

a serious love affair.

There are two effective ways of fortune-

telling.

For the first, ask yovu* subject to shuffle the

cards very thoroughly and to wish all the time.

Then cut them into tlu-ee piles with the left

hand. Should the wish card (the Nine of

Hearts) be one of those cut, it is a lucky

omen.

Notice two other cards and their possible

bearing on the wish. Now, after lifting the

cards and putting them together with the left

hand, proceed to divide them into piles in this

fashion -

Tlie first pile is to yourself. TTie second, to the

house. The third, to your wish. The fourth,

what you do expect. The fifth, what you don't

expect. The sixth, sure to come true. The

seventh foretells the happenings of to-night.

Arrange these piles, as you deal out the cards

one by one, in a semicircle. Then proceed to

read them off by their meanings.

Another and rather more complicated method

is to ask the person whose fortune in being told

wliich Iving he will be (if it is a woman, one

would naturally ask which Queen).

After the wishing has been done as before,

the fortune-teller lays out the cards in rows -

seven in a row.

To read the fortune the teller must start from

the King or Queen chosen, counting seven from

him or her in every case.

The King or Queen of the same suit will always

be the lover or sweetheart of the one whose

fortune is being told, and the Knave being

their thoughts, it is, of course, quite easy to

discover their feelings.

It is rather a good plan to write the meaning

of the cards on an old pack. By using this a

few times a rapid flow of ideas will much more

rcacUly be induced. It might be mentioned that

a too strict adherence to rule is by no means

either necessary or desirable in fortune-telling.

Tell what the combination of cards suggests

RECREATIONS

539

to you - quite irrespective of the exact meaning

of each - and you will be infinitely more amusing

and obtain much greater fame as a v^dzard.

A Throw of the Dice. - Although forecasting

of the future from dice is one of the most ancient

methods of prediction, it is curiously enough

almost unknown in modern days. For tliis

reason it is of special value to the home enter-

tainer, and will prove infinitely simpler than

the cards, the meanings being easier to learn

as well as fewer in number.

First chalk a magic circle on the table, then

obtain a small cup or box to shake the dice in.

Throe dice only should be used.

The person whose future is at stake must

shake and cast the dice in the circle. This,

as in card fortune-telling, should be done with

the left hand.

Three tells you of an approaching accident ;

four, a rise in your position ; five, that you

will make the acquaintance of one who will

be a friend ; six, predicts loss ; seven, a scandal ;

eight, a reproach that is not undeserved ;

nine, a wedding ; ten, a christening ; eleven,

trouble for one you love ; twelve, an important

letter ; thirteen, tears ; fourteen, beware of an

enemy ; fifteen, good luck and happiness ;

sixteen, a journey ; seventeen, a water journey ;

three sixes, or eighteen points, is a very good

sign. It means great profit in business, or

something the person wishes for very much.

FORTUNE-TELLING BY DOMINOES

A fairly unique accomplishment is to reveal

the future by the aid of dominoes, and there is

something sufiiciently fascinating and mysterious

about this mode of revelation to fill the un-

initiated with awe at the powers of the exponent.

Each small oblong has its secret meaning

by which some happening vital to the subject

is illustrated. It is a matter of little difficulty

to commit these to memory ; and in this, as in

other methods of divination, the fundamental

principle is that of comparison and calculation.

The dominoes used range from double-six to

double-blank, and by these are symbolised the

various vicissitudes of fate likely to befall man-

kind. The exponent places his paraphernalia

upon the table, and, having turned them with

their black spots facing the surface, proceeds

to shuffle them. When this is done, the subject

is requested to draw three pieces, one at a time.

Between the choice of each the dominoes are

shuffled.

The first supplies an impression ; should it

be drawn a second time, the impression becomes

a conviction. The third, however, may lessen

or wholly contradict its degree of importance,

and this is where calculation and comparison in

blending the signs are < ssential to a successful

justification and interpretation of these symbols.

Double-six is an emblem of matrimonial

happiness and financial prosperity.

Six- five is almost equally fortunate. Perse-

verance and concentration are rewarded by

ultimate success.

Six-jour implies a comfortable income, and

secures happiness in marriage.

Six-three demonstrates that fate smiles upon

the love and marriage of the subject.

Six-two. - Prudence, hard work, and a certain

amount of good luck, or exposure and shame

for any wrong -doing.

Six-one promises two marriages to the yovmg

subject, the first of which will not be as happy

as the second. Should the subject be of middle

age, this domino foretells the speedy arrival of

good things, and the fact that he or she will

never be loft lonely and uncared for.

Six-blank is, alas, a sign of great trouble -

sickness, death, or heavy money losses.

Double-five presages that all achievements will

be rewarded with a large amount of success,

but inordinate wealth is not prophesied.

Five-four is almost as unfortunate a draw as

six-blank. Should a young girl lift it, it means

that her future husband will be poor and

leave her a widow. Further, he may be

of extravagant disposition, in spite of his

poverty.

Five-three indicates a tranquil and contented

existence. Sufficient money and matrimonial

affection of moderate strength, the couple being

incapable of passionate devotion.

Five-two conveys a warning that love and

marriage are destined to an unhappy termination.

Five-one portends social popularity, but

financial worries and losses.

Five-blank is supposed to demonstrate ego-

tistical and avariciovis characteristics, tendencies

to swindling and intrigues, also a warning to

remain unmarried.

Double-four. - The man who earns his liveli-

hood by manual labovu* may regard this domino

as a sign of future security and prosperity, but

to him whose profession needs mental acliieve-

ment it is rather disastrous. Troubles and

disappointments await liim.

Four-three. - Matrimony and moderate income.

Four-two proclaims an early marriage and

moderate income.

Four-one. - Wealth or many friends.

Four-blank. - A sure warning that single life

will be the best and happiest. It counsels that

any secrets imparted to another will be indis-

creetly revealed.

Double-three. - Enormous riches.

Three-two foretells prosperity in matrimony,

travels, and speculations.

Three-one. - Some danger and unliappiness.

The necessity for acting with extreme caution

in all matters.

Three-blank. - Domestic unhappiness, such as

a quarrel or incompatibility of temperament of

540

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

husband and wife. The absence of harmony

in the home.

Double -tivo promises average happiness and

income.

Two-one. - Two marriages, if the individual

be a woman ; financial failures to a commercial

man.

Two-blank. - The intrigues of unscrupulous

persons will meet with temporary success. It

also denotes poverty, and an indolent hus-

band. The individual will return safely from

all joumej's undertaken.

Double-one. - An existence free from money

worries ; peace and constancy in love and

marriage.

Double-blank seems to favour the deeds of

unprincipled persons, and foretells want of

integrity in lover and husband.

DIVINATIONS BY TAROCS

Tarocs differ from the numeral cards used

for bridge, whist, &c., in several ways. A pack

consists of seventy -eight cards, made up of

twenty-two emblematic pictures and fifty-six

ordinary.

These latter are grouped into four suits of

fourteen cards each : - four coat cards - king,

queen, chevalier, and valet ; and ten fip cards,

numbering from 1 to 10.

The twenty-two emblematic cards are known

as the Major Arcana, and are divided into three

groups of seven, which equal twenty-one cards.

The twenty-second stands for the highest point

successful achievement may reach. The Major

Arcana contaiHS : - -

let Division

1. The Juggler - emblematic of the male in-

quirer.

2. The High Priestess - emblematic of the

woman inquirer.

3. The Empress - emblematic of the action,

initiative.

4. The Emperor - emblematic of the will.

5. The Pope - emblematic of the inspiration.

6. Lovers - emblematic of the love.

7. The Chariot - emblematic of the triumph,

providential protection.

2nd Division

1. Justice - emblematic of justice.

2. The Hermit - emblematic of prudence.

3. The Wheel of Fortune- emblematic of

destiny.

4. Strength - emblematic of fortitude, courage.

5. The Hanged Man - emblematic of trial and

sacrifice.

6. Death- emblematic of bereavement.

7. Temperance - emblematic of temperance.

3rd Division

1. The Devil - emblematic of immense force or

illness.

2. The Struck Tower - emblematic of ruin and

deception.

3. The Stars - emblematic of hope.

4. The Moon - emblematic of hidden dangers,

enemies.

5. The Sun - emblematic of material happiness,

marriage.

6. Judgment - emblematic of change of circum-

stances.

7. The Foolish Man - emblematic of incon-

siderate actions.

The remaining card. No. 22, which belongs

to this division, is

The universe, emblematic of success.

The Minor Arcana, divided into two groups

of four, corresponding to the suits of ordinary

playing cards : -

Sceptres relate to diamonds, interpreted as

enterprise.

Cups relate to hearts, interpreted as love.

Swords relate to spades, interpreted as mis-

fortune.

Pentacles relate to clubs, interpreted as interest,

The four coat cards stand for different con-

ditions of existence : -

King, emblematic of man. Divine world (spiri-

tuality).

Queen, emblematic of woman. Human wo .'Id

(vitality).

Chevalier, emblematic of youth. Material world

(materiality).

Valet, emblematic of childhood. Transition

stage (life in growtli).

The remaining cards of these smts (1 to 10)

are important according to their relation to the

coat cards and their numerical value. These are

(1) 1, 2, 3 of each suit appertain to man -

abstract qualities, creation, and enter-

prise.

(2) 4, 5, 6 of each suit represent woman -

opposition, reflection, and negation.

(3) 7, 8, 9 of each suit represent youth and

materialism.

(4) The four tens of each suit represent the

stage of transition.

In order to toll fortunes by means of tarocs,

the manipulator must be perfectly conversant

with the design, cltiss. and interpretation of

each card.

Process o( Divination. - The complete pack ia

RECREATIONS

541

used. Shuffle and cut into three parts, each

composed of twenty-six cards, thus : -

26 26 26

Take the central pack and place on the right.

The inquirer shuffles the two remaining packs,

which equal fifty-two. These are dealt out in

a similar fashion - ^three groups of seventeen

cards, thus : -

17 17 17

Again remove central pack to the right.

Deal out the remaining packs, which equal

thirty -four, in three groups of eleven, thus : -

It will be seen that seventy-eight cards divide

equally in the first deal.

In the second deal, however, only fifty-one

cards are used, so that there is one over. This

card is shuffled with the third deal.

Two cards are now over, and these are placed

as discards, until the central pack of the last

deal of eleven is put on the riglit, when they are

shuffled with the remaining twenty-two discards.

The cards will now be as follows : -

Discards = twenty-four, making in all seventy-

eight. They are next placed beneath each other

in sequence, thus : -

A. 26 - emblematic of the supernatural,

spiritual.

B. 1 7 - emblematic of the thoughts and calling

of the individual.

C. 11 - emblematic of the physical and

material.

The tarocs of pack A, B, and C are now lifted

separately, and placed on the table from left

to right in rows. Each taroc has its meaning,

and from its relation to its fellows the manipu-

lator is able to present a brief sketch of character,

inclination, and futurity.

Another simple method is to shuffle all the

cards and request the inquirer to cut. The

manipulator then proceeds to draw the first

seventeen tarocs, uncovering only the eighteenth

and last card of the pack. These two cards

create what degree of sympathy is shared

between himself and his client, the keynote

being given by the symbolic meaning attached

to the card. The seventeen cards are now

revealed from left to right, their interpretation

being given separately. In order to reach a

proper signification, they are then compared

as follows : -

The first with the seventeenth.

The second with the sixteenth.

The third with the fifteenth,

and so on, each process increasing or taking

from the first manifestation.

ORGANISING ENTERTAINMENTS FOR

CHARITY

Though the organisation of charity enter-

tainments involves real hard work and a great

deal of anxiety for the organisers, yet it may

well be classed as a pastime owing to the large

amount of pleasure afforded to all who take

part in it when their efforts are successful.

Charity entertainments are many and various,

ranging from the simple penny reading, village

concert or bazaar, to the more ambitious

theatrical entertainment for which a theatre or

hall has to be hired, or the concert or " fancy

fair " given in one of the large town halls. The

larger the scale upon which the entertainment

is planned the greater the amount of work

there will be. For large entertainments it is

always as well to appoint a committee of organi-

sation consisting of at least four members, each

of which will be responsible for some particular

part of preparation, to be allotted to them by

the chief organiser who will superintend the

whole.

Small entertainments for local charities which

do not involve so much preliminary outlay and

for which a certain amount of profit is usually

assured, may be organised by one person, but

even in these circumstances she should be able

to count upon the co-operation of a number

of willing helpers, and she should always avail

herself of their services to the full, and thus by

sparing herself the necessity of worrying over

the hundred and one minor details, will be

able to devote all her energies to the carrjdng

out of the more important part of the work.

In the first place influential patronage must

be secured. Persons of high social standing

should be approached, more especially those

who are interested in the special charity for

which the entertainment is to be given. If the

request is placed before them in a tactful manner

they will in most cases give permission for their

names to be included in the list of patrons.

Then steps must be taken to give publicity

to the event. If the lady or gentleman who

is in charge of tliis important department has

some journalistic associations, and might there-

fore be able to influence press paragraphs, so

much the better. It will be necessary also to

commence advertising the event in the principal

papers a few weeks beforehand, and it is better,

if possible, to insert a small advertisement

daily during the last week. Neatly-worded

paragraphs describing the most striking featvires

of the entertainment should be sent to the

editors of all the papers in which the advertise-

ment appears, together with a polite little note

requesting the favour of a paragraph and point-

ing out that the entertainment is advertised in

his paper. Then, at least twelve days before-

hand, tickets of admission to the entertainment

should be sent to the editors, with printed

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

542

progranune3 and any further particulars to

which attention should bo drawn.

Strict accounts should be kept of each item

of expenditure involved. While nothing should

le grudged which will help to ensure success,

aU Ltrlvagance of outlay should be avoided

How many so-called " charity " entertainments

have been given, for instance, in which, atter

paving all the incidental expenses, not a f artlung

CbL left over for the charity. I" the case

of theatricals each performer should be asked

to provide or hire her own costume, make up, &c. ,

as her contribution to the charity. If this

course is not pursued, then the expenses will

soon mount up. They should all go to the same

costumier, if possible, and in most cases the

latter wiU make a substantial reduction if

mention is made of his name in the programmes.

A reduction will also bo made in the charge foi

hiring scenery for the same consideration, iho

same may be said in regard to the printing,

wliich in the case of small local chanties may

often be obtained free of any charge whatever.

A theatre is often lent for the performance

free, with the exception of the cost of lighting,

orchestra, and attendants' fees, aU of whicn

WiU have to be met. Nearly always the use of

a large hall may also be obtained free for

the purposes of a concert or bazaar, it tactlui

appUcation is made in the proper quarter.

Bazaars should always be planned upon as

original lines as possible to make them a success.

A pretty idea is for all the stall-holders to bo

in the costume of some historical Pf.^od; tor

instance, it might be called an " Elizabethan

Fair," and all the stall-holders would have to

be dresed in Elizabethan costume. In the

stalls themselves the illusion should also be

kept up as far as possible. The refreshment

room should be decorated in Elizabethan style

with simple little tables and settles, and the

waitresses dressed in the simple costume of the

Elizabethan serving-wench. Tlie f ortune-telhng

booth should by no moans be forgotten, as to

have their fortunes told forms an ii-resistible

attraction to the feminine members of the

community at least. Fortunes might be told

cither by palmistry or cards, both are largely

appreciated. Part of the tent might be parti-

tioned of=t for the purpose of teUing fortunes

by the teacup. This would be a novelty, ns

each consultant of the "wizard" would first

bo obUged to partake of the " cup that cheers "

before her future is foretold. The woman who

has not enough articles to equip a stall should

bethink herself of the possibilities of the bran

tub. Presents of all kinds and varieties should

bo hidden away in a tub half full of bran, and

3d., 6d., or Is. charged for a dip, in accordance

with the value of the articles therein. Then,

again, if the sales are not brisk at any particular

stall, the possibilities of the "raffle " must not

be lost sight of. Very often articles will fetch

a muoli higher price when raffled than if sold

in the ordinary way. Tickets bearing different

numbers should be made out in duphcate, one

set being sold and the others placed in a bag or

hat and well shaken up together. From these

a person must be asked to draw a number.

The person possessing the duplicate of the

number drawn has won the prize. Baffling is

looked upon by some people as one of the most

enioyable features of a bazaar, and these will

make a point of expending all the money they

have to spare upon tickets for the various

raffles. There are no end of pretty fancy

articles for sale at bazaars that can be made

by clever fingers.

A RoUer-Skating Carnival always forms an

irresistible attraction, and its successful results

ere even more assured than those of a bazaar

by reason of its novelty. A local skating rink

Bhould be hired and tickets of admission sold

under condition that all the skaters must be

in fancy dress. Prizes should be given for the

best and the most original costumes.

Whist and Bridge Drives, for which tickets

are sold, are often sources of great help to local

charities. There must be a fairly large number

of players, and the tickets should be charged

at 2s. 6d. to 5s., there being &st and sr.ond

prizes for the successful winners poesessmg 5s.

tickets, and first and second prizes ot lower value

for those with 28. 6d. tickets. . - 1

There are, in fact, no end to the enjoyaule

functions which may be organised m the cause

of charity, and in each case it may be said

that much of the success of the function wall

depend upon th- capability for orgamsation

displayed by its promoters.

OUTDOOR GAMES

LAWN TENNIS

Lawn tennis is one of the favourite outdoor

games ^vith young people of both sexes. I

forms the raison d'Hre of many a pleasant

garden party in the summer months ; it is a

game in which both men and women can join,

and from its purely social aspect, if for no other

reason, it is well worth cultivating by the modern

^ Wo"are not all sufficiently fortunate to have

enough lawn spaco at our disi,osal for tlie for-

mation of a tennis court. The wise mother

however, will see that her children are initiated

RECREATIONS

into the mysteries of the game when at school ;

also as they get older she will arrange for them

to join some good lawn tennis club, of which

there are several in nearly every town or suburb.

Moreover, she would do well to show her interest

in the pursuits of her young people by joining

the club with them, and by obtaining in this

way a health -giving respite from the many and

arduous duties which fall to the lot of the

average house-mistress.

The fees of membership vary in different

543

faciUties so offered are not always taken advan-

tage of, for the very good reason that a large

mmiber of people are not aware of their exist-

ence. Before joining a tennis club, therefore,

make inquiries in order to ascertain if there are

any places in your district where tennis courts

and nets are to be hired. If there are, then try

to get a friend or friends who are good tennis

players to go regularly with you until you have

attained that proficiency which can only be

achieved by practice.

78 feel

.21[eei.

Plan of Full-sized Tennis Court according to the Regulations of the

Lawn Tennis Association.

localities, although £1, Is. per season would

represent the average. Girls who have to

spend their days teaching or in an office,

or at some other equally sedentary occupa-

tion, cannot do better than become members

of clubs of the kind and spend their summer

evenings in playing tennis. The small sum

expended will prove to be well invested, and

the benefits to be derived from this healthful

deviation from the ordinary routine are well

~ ~ 78 feet

The Court. - The piece of lawn upon which

the court is marked must be thoroughly smooth

and level. It should never be on a slope. The

lawn requires to be kept in good condition, and

requires regular rolling and mowing. The lines

indicating the court are marked in whitening by

means of a " Lawn Tennis Marker." There are

many different kinds of markers to be had,

most of them consisting of a little tank upon

wheels, the tank containing the whitening which

Plan of Single-handed Tenuis Court according to the Regulations of the

Luv/n Tennis Association.

worth some small sacrifice. It often happens,

however, that the members of some clubs are

all "crack'' players, and the begirner would

therefore shrink from exposing herself to adverse

criticism of her play. In these circumstances

she should remember that, in London and many

other large towns, portions of large parks or

pubhc grounds are set apart for the purpose of

lawn tennis - and both tennis court and net may

be hired at from Sd, to Is. an hour. The

by a patent device is conveyed to the " marking

wheel."

In simple language the game of lawn tennis

consists of hitting balls across a net by means

of rackets. As is well kno\vn, lawn tennis may

be played by two, tliree, or four players. For

the single-handed game {i.e. two players) the

court is slightly differently marked than for the

other games. The difference is shown in the

accompanying diagrams.

544

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

For the single-handed game the court must

be 27 ft. in width and 78 ft. in length- for the

three and four-handed games it must be 36 ft.

in width and 78 ft. in length. In both cases

it is divided across the middle by a net, the

ends of which are stretched to the tops of two

posts which stand 3 ft. outside the court on

each side. The height of the net is 3 ft. 6 m.

at the posts, and 3 ft. at the centre. At each

end of the court, parallel with the net, and at a

distance of 39 ft. from it, are drawn the base

lines, the extremities of which are connected

by the "side lines." Halfway with the side

lines and parallel with them is drawn the '' half-

court " line, di\'iding the space on each side of

the net into two equal parts, called the right and

left courts. On each side of the net, at a dis-

tance of 21 ft. from it, are drawn the service

lines. The half-court line need not be drawn

beyond the serAace Une. In the single-handed

game (i.e. two players) the service Unes extend

to the side lines, whilst for the tliree- or four-

handed games, within the side lines at a distance

of 4J ft. from them, and parallel with them, are

drawn the service side lines.

Rules of the Game. - As with every other game,

lawn tennis has its recognised code of rules,

wliich must be followed. The opponent players

stand on opposite sides of the net. The player

who begins the game by serving the ball over

the net is called the "server," the one who

returns the ball the "striker out." Players

take it in turns to servo in alternate games.

In the three-handed game the single player

serves in every alternate game. In the four-

handed game the service of the first game is

given by one of the partners on either side, the

second game by one of the partners on the

opponent side, the third game by the partner

of the one who served in the first game, and

so on until the set is finished. The server must

stand with both feet behind the base line and

within the limits of the imaginary continuation

of the centre service and the side lines. She

must deliver the service from right to left courts

alternately, beginning from the right.

The ball served must drop within the service

line, half court line, and side line of the court,

which is diagonally opposite to that from which

it was served, or upon any such line.

A Fault. - If the service be delivered from the

wrong court, or if the server is not standing

as directed above, or if the ball does not go

over the net, or goes beyond the service line, or

if it drop out of' court or in the wrong service

court, there is what is known as a " fault " m

the service. If the server makes two consecu-

tive faults, a stroke is won by the other side.

A Let.- It is a " let " if the ball served touch

the net provided the service be otherwise good,

or if a service or fault be delivered when the

striker out is not ready, or if a player is ob-

structed by any accident not within her control.

In case of a " let " the service or stroke counts

for nothing and the server may serve again.

The " striker out " must not return the

ball before it touches the ground in her first

return stroke. The server wins a stroke if the

" striker out " volley the service, or fails to

return the service or the ball in play (except

in the case of a let), or return the service or

ball in play so that it drop outside any of the

lines which bound her opponent's court, or

otherwise lose a stroke.

The striker out wins a stroke if the server

serves two consecutive faults or fails to return

the ball in play (except in the case of a let), or

returns the ball in play so that it drops outside

any of the lines which bound her opponent's

court.

Scoring. - On either side winning the first

stroke the winning side scores 15, for the second

stroke 30 is scored, for the third stroke 40.

If both sides win one stroke the score is 15 all,

if both win two strokes the score is 30 all, if

both win three strokes the score is " deuce " ;

the next stroke after " deuce " won by either

players is called advantage for that player. If

the same player wins the next stroke she wins

the game. If she loses the next stroke the

score is again called deuce, and so on till either

player wins the two strokes immediately follow-

ing the score of deuce.

Tennis Racket. - A great deal depends upon

the quality of the racket. It should never be

too heavy - 13 J oz. represents a good average

weight for ladies' vise. It should be made of

good strong gut not too tightly strung. Many

now patents in rackets have lately been intro-

duced. In one the racket has two centre strings

of wire. Balls also should always be of good

quaUty. To fulfil the requirements of the lawn

tennis laws these should not be less than 2i in.

nor more than 2^'^ in. in diameter, and not less j

than 1| oz. nor more than 2 oz. in weight. I

Net and Posts. - Nets should be of the best

quality procurable. An inferior one will not I

last. They sliould be well taken care of, never I

being allowed to remain out in all weathers, }

but removed from the posts and rolled up care- '

fully when the game is over. The posts which ]

possess a winding apparatus by means of which ^

the net can be evenly stretched between them

and fixed in place are the best to use.

CRICKET

Cricket has long been regarded as England's

chief national sport, and it is a game in which ,

most young people like to excel. Though essen- ,

tially a boy's and man's game, girls are by no ,

means debarred from entering into it, and many

a cricket match is arranged and played at oiir

large girls' schools, there being much competi-

tion for membership in the school cricket eleven.

A cricket match is played by two sides of

RECREATIONS

545

eleven players each, each side being under the

direction of its captain. The game consists of

the defence of the wicket by the batsmen of

the one side against the bowlers and fielders of

the other, whose mission it is to endeavour to

knock down the wicket with the ball. Cricket

may be played with double or single wickets,

the former method being the most universally

adopted.

For the double wicket game there must be a

batsman at each side of the wickets. The play

of the defending side is termed their "innings."

When a batsman hits the ball far enough, the

batsmen run across each to the other one's

wicket, and keep on running backwards and

forwards as long as there is no danger of the

batsman being bowled out while away from the

wicket. Each time they run to each other's

wickets is counted a " run." The side which

scores the gioater number of " runs " wins the

game. As each batsman goes out his place is

taken by another batsman, until ten have

played. When the tenth is out the other side

begin their innings.

The wickets are pitched opposite and parallel

to each other at a distance of 22 yds. Each

wicket must be 8 in. in width, and consist of

three stumps with two bails on the top. The

wickets must not be changed during a match

unless the ground between them becomes unfit

for play. The ground at each wicket must be

marked out according to the rules of the game

with bowling crease, return crease, and popping

crease - tlie bowler must keep within the limits

of the bowling and retu.n crease, and the bats-

man witliin those of the popping crease. In

addition to bowlers and batsmen the fielders

play an important part in the game of the

attacking pa^tJ^ They each have their certain

definite positions allotted to them ; it being their

mission to stop the ball and throw it in. Chief

amongst these may be mentioned the wicket-

lieeper, who must stand behind the stumps. He

must be on the alert to stump the batsmen who

miss the ball and are over the crease, and run

them out when the ball is returned from the

fielders, to take " catches," and prevent " byes."

Before the commencement of every match

two umpires must bo appointed, one for each

end. The umpires are the sole judges of fair

or unfair play. They must pitch fair wickets,

arrange boundaries where necessary, and the

allowances to be made for them, and change

ends after each has had one innings. The

batsman is declared " out " -

If the ball is caught by the bowler or a

.^Ider before it touches the ground.

WTien he is " bowled," i.e. if the wicket be

bowled down, even if the ball first touch the

triker's bat or person.

If he is " stumped " out - ^that is to say, if

in playing at the ball, pro\'ided it be not touched

by the bat or hand, the striker is out of his

ground and the wicket is put down by the

wicket-keeper with the ball, or with hand or

arm with ball in hand.

If with any part of his person he stop the

baU.

If he " hit the wicket " with his bat or any

part of his person or dress.

When under pretence of running or otherwise

either of the batsmen wilfully prevent a ball

from being caught.

If the ball bo struck by any part of liis person

or he wilfully strike it again, except it be done

for the purpose of guarding his wicket, which

he may do with liis bat or any part of his

person except his hands.

If he is " run out " - ^if the wicket be knocked

down by his opponents with the ball while he

is making his runs : he is out if he has not

grounded his bat inside the popping crease before

the ball hits the wicket for which he is malcing.

The bowler bowls an " over " or six successive

balls from one end. Then a bowler at the other

end also bowls an " over."

It is " no ball " if the bowler does not have

one foot behind the bowling crease when bowl-

ing, but the batsman is entitled to run just the

same. If the ball is lost, six runs are allowed to

the striker.

HOCKEY

Hockey is a great deal played by girls and

women, usually forming one of the sports taught

at girls' schools. There are also a nvunber of

ladies' hockey clubs throughout the country.

The game is played with hockey sticks and an

ordinary cricket ball painted white. There

are twenty-two players, eleven on each side.

Usually five of these eleven are " forwards," tliree

" half backs," two " backs," and one the goal-

keeper. To score a goal the ball must be driven

between the goal posts. The ground must be

marked in the shape of a rectangle, the long sides

of which are called the " side lines " and the short

sides the " goal lines." In the centre of each goal

line are placed the goals, which consist of two

upright posts placed foiu" yards apart connected

by a cross-bar. Behind the goals at either side

a net is placed. Fifteen yards in front of each

goal a semi-circle is drawn with its sides ter-

minating at the goal line. This is called the

" striking circle," and in order for a goal to be

scored the ball must be struck from a point

witlain this circle.

Tlie game is started by two of the players

(one from each side) striking the ground in

front of the ball three times with their sticks.

This is known as a " bully," and the play must

be restarted by a " bully " each time a gosd

is scored. The side which scores the greater

number of goals wins the game.

The player must not hold, carrj', or send the

ball in any direction except by means of her

hockey stick, but she may stop the ball with

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

546

her foot and catch it with her hand if she drops

it immediately afterwards.

Tlie rules for the game of hockey for women

in England are drawn up by the All England

Woman's Hockey Association, of which JIiss

M. A. JuUus, 7 Onslow Avenue, Richmond, is

the secretary.

Dress- Loose blouses or jerseys and short

serge skirts should be worn. Boots or shoes

should have good, thick, strong soles, and boots

as a rule are preferable to shoes, as they serve

in a measure to protect the ankles from injury

by knocks with the hockey sticks.

ROUNDERS

Rounders is a very popular game for the play-

•^ound, and one in which any number of players

may take part. Tlie game is played in an

imaginary round or circle, on which four bases

are marked by posts placed at equal distances

from each other. In some cases trees are situ-

ated in convenient parts of the ground to do

duty as bases. The players are divided into

two' sides. The members of the side who are

" in " stand in a line at the post marking the

home base and one member of the other side

acts as bowler, the others taking up various

positions on the ground as fielders. Each

member of the " in " side takes it in turn to

strike the baU sent by the bowler, generallj'

with the open hand, though in some forms of

the game a bat is used. When she has struck

it she must at once run to the post or tree

marking the first base, it being the object of the

fielders to get her " out " by hitting her with

the ball wliile she is running between the bases.

No two players may stand together at any base

but the homo oase, so that when a player is

stationed at the first base from home, directly

another player hits the ball and begins to run

she must at once make for the next base. The

great object of the game is to obtain as many

rounders as possible, that is to say, that each

player should endeavour to hit the ball far

enough to enable her to run to all the posts

And home again without stopping. The side

which wins the greater number of rounders wins

the game.

If a ball Is caught before touching the ground

by the bowler or any of the fielders, the side

of the striker is out, and the others must take

their turns as batsmen. Each player as she

roaches homo takes her stand at the end of

the line of players waiting for their turn to

act as batsman, and she bats the ball in her

turn again until she is out. When all the

players on the innings side are out, the next

side comes in.

BASEBALL

This may be called the American Rounders,

and is a very favourite game in America. It

is played by eighteen players, nine to a side.

The field is diamond-shaped, the bases being

stationed at the four corners. llie pitcher

stands opposite to the home base six feet from

it and bowls to the batsmen of the " in " side,

whilst the other members of the " out " side

are stationed as fielders in various positions

over the ground, one taking up his position as

" catcher " behind the home base. The bats-

man when he has hit the ball must run to the

first base. Each round of the four bases makes

a " run," and the side which scores the greater

number of rvins wins the game. Should a bats-

man fail to hit the ball after it has been bowled

to him three consecutive times he is out. When

three of the batsmen have been bowled out the

innings is over. If the batsman is hit by the

fielder with the ball whilst running between the

bases he is out. Each side is allowed nine

innings.

CROQUET

Croquet is played with croquet mallets and

balls on an oblong-shaped lawn upon which a

number of hoops and arches are set in a definite

order. Six hoops are used in the new standard

settings. Each player has a mallet and a ball ;

the balls are of difierent colours in order that

they may be easily distinguished in play, and

the mallets bear corresponding colours. Two

or more players may take part in the game, four

or eight being favourite numbers. The object

of the player is to send her ball tlirough each

hoop until the winning peg is reached, and to

keep her opponent from making progress. This

can be done by means of " Roquet," by which

the player when she has passed through a hoop

strikes with her ball that of her opponent.

When she has done this the player must place

her own ball against the ball which she has

struck, and then hit the former with her mallet,

the force of the stroke serving to move both

balls. There is a great art in this stroke the

knack of which is only gained by experience.

For instance, one kind of stroke will send both

balls in the same direction, whilst another kind

of stroke will send them far apart. Tlie object

of the player should be not only to send her

opponent's ball as far away from its destination

as possible, but also to place it in a position

where it will be useful to her or to one of the

other players on her side. The player is not

now allowed to put her foot on her opponent's

ball to keep it steady when making the stroke.

Many people, however, still play croquet in

the old-fashioned way.

When a player has passed through a hoop,

or taken "Roquet," she is allowed another

turn. If she misses a hoop, sends a ball out

of bounds, or fails to move her opponent's ball

when playing it against her own after " Roquet,

her turn is over. i

The rules of croquet are drawn up by the

RECREATIONS

547

Croquet Association. A copy of the rules, with

diagrams of standard settings, price 4d., may

be obtained from Horace Cos, Bream's Build-

ings, London, E.C.

BOWLS

Bowls is a very popular lawn game. It is

played with bowls which have a bias on one

side, and a small ball called the jack. The

play is begun by one of the players bowhng

the jack across the lawn to give it its position.

Then turns are taken alternately by members

of each side. The object of each player is to

bowl her ball as near as possible to the jack,

and to knock away that of her opponent, if

possible. In bowhng the side with the bieis

should always be held towards the player.

When all have had their turn the score is taken.

The side which has the nearest bowl to the

jack counts points in accordance with the number

of bowls they have nearer the jack than the

opposing side. The number of points that make

the game can be settled beforehand by the

players.

BADMINTON

Badminton is very like tennis, only it is played

with special Badminton bats and shuttlecocks

instead of balls. It has the advantage of being

a game which can be played either in or out

of doors, only in the latter case it cannot be

played in a strong wind. It is mostly played

in covered courts, and in these circumstances

makes an admirable winter game. The shuttle-

cock is sent over the net in the same manner

as in tennis, only the game must necessarily be

a volleyed one. Should a player fail to rettirn

the shuttlecock which is served to her, a point

is scored against her, also against the server

who sends the shuttlecock into the wrong coiurt.

The shuttlecock must not touch the net or

posts or fall out of bounds. The game usually

is fifteen, but when both sides have scored

tliirteen, five extra points may be played for.

A Badminton net stands higher than a tennis

net, being 5 ft. in the middle and 5 ft. 1 in.

at the sides.

GOLF

Golf is becoming a very favourite game for

women, though the golfer is apt to find her

hobby a somewhat expensive one at times.

Besides the initial outlay on golf clubs, balls,

and other accessories, tips to caddies have to

be considered, whilst if the golfer is to have

any chance of pursuing her favourite pastime

she must of necessity belong to a good golfing

club.

The game is played with small balls and clubs

of various shapes on uneven ground. The

coiu-se has at intervals of 150 and 500 yards a

number of smooth greens each with a hole in

it, and the object of each player is to get her

ball into each of these holes in turn and so

round the course with the least number of

strokes. The one who wins at the greater

number of holes wins the round.

For the first stroke the ball is placed on a

small mound called a " tee." Sometimes two

players on each side strike the same ball alter-

nately. The match is then called a " four-

some."

Golf is essentiallj' a game wliich must be

acquired by practice. Little help can be ob-

tained by an amateur from books. Tlie rules

of the game have been drawn up by the Golf

Club of St. Andrews, and the beginner should

obtain a copy of these. There are a number

of ladies' golf clubs in country places, health

resorts, and the suburbs, at which an entrance

fee, which varies from one to three guineas, in

addition to the year's subscription, must bo

paid.

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

No woman, be she princess or peasant. ^Wd cor^ide, h^^^^^^^^

knowledge of nursing, and a though to '^"^^ ^^^'^'^^^^^^^^'^^X by practSal expk'ience. or by

that the necessary know edge m^^^^^^^^ ^hir^; '^ven i^C^t' pa^rt^ of the couLy by trained

attending some of the exceUont ""^^ў^^Xi^^^^^ PerhaDS a knowledge of nursing is needed most

Calmness in a crisis is the result of knowledge.

THE SICK-ROOM

Caioice of Room.- It often happens that a

person is taken ill in a room which is qmte un-

suitable for an invaUd, and he may have to re-

main there cither because there is no other place

available or because he is too Ul to be moved.

In this case the room must be made as hke the

ideal sick-room as possible. If you are able to

choose a sick-room, select one at the back of the

house, as it is quieter, and if it looks out on to a

garden, so much the better. There is something

very soothing in the sounds and scents from a

garden, and most people like to listen to the

Bongs of birds and to the rustling of leaves.

The" room should be largo and lofty, and it is

an advantage to have windows on opposite sides,

so that when there is a strong wind blowing in

one direction, a window on the other side can

be opened. A room with a south-eastern

aspect is best, as it will have plenty of sunshine,

and sunshine, like fresh air, means life to the

patient. The old plan of darkening a sick-room

is a bad one. Unless the eyes are affected,

or there is cerebral trouble, a patient should bo

encouraged to tolerate the Ught. Of course,

a patient's bed Can be moved, or the window

curtain arranged so as to prevent "the sun

getting in his eyes."

Ventilation and Warmth.- Good ventilation is

an absolute necessity in the sick-room, and to

ensure this there should be an inlet for fresh

air and an outlet for what is impure. This can

be arranged by opening the window at the top.

The warm foul air cscajjes at the top, and the

fresh air enters between the sashes. The

windows should be opened wide and not just a

few inches. The idea that night air is injurious

is a false one, as often the air is purer at night

than in the day-time ; there are fewer fires arid

consequently less smoke. If the room is small,

keep the vvindow wide open. If the patient is m

a draught, put up a screen, or if there is not one

available it can be improvised by arranging a

sheet over a clothes-horse. The sick-room thould

always be fresh, even to an outsider commg in

from the open air. It should at the same time

be warm, but not over-heated. A temperature

from 56" to 60№ Fahr. is usually high enough, but

in some cases it may be necessary to hav^ it

as high as 65№ Fahr. A thermometer should be

hung in the room near the patient's bed and the

temperature noted from time to time. There

should also be a fireplace, as a fire in an open

grate is an excellent ventilator. A complete

set of fire-u-ons is not required. A small poker

and tongs are all that are needed. Choose a

time when the patient is awake to make up the

fire, and if it must be made up while he is asleep,

wear old gloves and take up the coal in the hands,

or put a number of pieces of coal in a paper-

bag beforehand and place this on the fire when

necessary. When there is a fire in the room

the grate will, of course, need to be " done up

once a day, but afterwards it can be kept tidy

with a brush or a duster kept for tho

purpose. ^ ^, .

Cleanliness and Arrangement.- Everything in

a sick-room should be kept scrupulously clean.

The floor should either be bare or covered witii

oil-cloth. In this way it can bo kept clea,n by

frequent dusting or wiping over daily with a

648

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

549

damp cloth, and then occasionally washed with

soap and water. Small rugs or mats can be

laid down, and they should be placed so as to

deaden the sound of footsteps. These can

easily be taken out of the room and

shaken.

The walls should be covered with a pretty

light paper.

It is better to avoid drapery as much as

possible, and what there is shoxild be of wasliing

material. There should be no unnecessary

furniture in the room, and it should be of the

kind that is easily kept clean. One or two

easy-chairs are useful, also a sofa, but in the

case of infectious diseases upholstered furniture

should be banished as far as possible.

On a table or chest of drawers place a tray, on

which have a basin of water and a clean tea-cloth

to wash the medicine glass or feeder. The

medicine bottles and glass can be kept on tliis

table, but all lotions, Unaments, or poisons

should be kept on the washstand. Sometimes

a lotion, intended for outward application only,

is given in mistake for medicine. The risk of

doing this is lessened if lotion and medicine

bottles are kept apart. Have a small table

close to the patient's bed. This should be

covered with a dainty white cloth, and on it

might be placed a small bunch of very fresh

flowers in a vase that will not easily fall over ;

also a table-napkin to place under the patient's

cliin wliile he is being fed. It is nice to have

a tiny tray on tliis table on which a clean

spoon can be kept, or the medicine glass or

feeding-cup put down if the patient has to

be raised, or can only take his nourishment

slowly. Later on, during convalescence, a drink

or a little fruit can be placed on the table for

the patient to take as he wishes, and when he

is able to read a book this might also be placed

within reach.

There should be plenty of nice fresh flowers

in the room, but avoid choosing those with a

very strong scent, and never keep stale flowers

in the vases. It is better to remove all plants

and flowers at night.

Bed and Bedding. - The bedstead should be, if

possible, behind the door with the head to the

wall and a space on either side.

The window should be at the side of the bed.

Never, if you can help it, have the head of the

bed against the window, as the patient will bo

sure to complaiia of the cbaught. If it happens

to be in tliis position, and the room is too small

to allow of its being moved, then tm-n the

patient with his head to the foot of tho bed

if possible.

In winter, when the weather is cold and dull,

liave the bedstead as near the fire as you con-

^■cniently can. It is nice when the firo is at tho

.^ido of tho bed, so that the patient can have

a good view oi it. Tliere iij something very

cheering in a bright fire.

A single iron bedstead with a wire spring is

the best, as it will be easy for the nm-so to reach

the patient. The only advantage in a full-

sized bed is that the patient can be moved from

one side to the other while the bed is being made.

There should be a good, thick, soft mattress of

hair or wool - hair for choice. Flock and

feather beds are not good, as they get lumpy

and full of hollows when they cannot be pro-

perly shaken.

The sheets should be large enough to be well

tucked in under the mattress. A draw sheet

is usually needed. This should be a yard wide

and two j'ards long. An ordinary sheet doubled

answers the purpose quite well.

The number of pillows reqtiired by a patient

difiers very much, but a bolster and two soft

pillows or three pillows are usually needed.

When the patient is lying quite flat, the second

pillow may not be required, but it is often tiseful

to put under his shoulders, or to support his

back when lying on his side, or when one pillow

gets very hot it is nice to be able to replace it by

a fresh one.

Have warm soft woollen blankets. Cheap

blankets made of cotton mixture are quite out

of place in the sick-room, as they are heavy and

not warm.

The same applies to heavy cotton quilts ;

they are undesirable on all occasions, and are

impossible for an invalid, as their weight is most

trying and tiring. Very light, tliin bed-spreads

should be used ; small plain ones m ithout frills

are best, as they can be easily washed. A clean

sheet makes a very good bed-spread.

All bed-Unen should be of snowy whiteness.

THE NURSE

The woman who undertakes sick-nursing

must learn to be observant ; slie must also

be very accurate when making statements

about her patients to the doctor and conscien-

tious in cai-rying out his instructions. Often

the nerves may be all " on edge " from tho

strain of nui'sing, especially if the patient is a

very dear relative, and for this reason it is the

duty of the nurse to take care of her own health.

For the patient's sake as well as her own she

should always try to take her meals regularly,

and, if possible, out of the sick-room. Sho

should also get some hours' sleep in another

room.

Dress. - Tlie nurse's dross should be of wasliing

material, and she should always wear an apron.

The dress should be short enough to clear tho

ground, and if the sleeves are short so much the

better, as it is often necessary to wash the hands,

and long sleeves are in tho way, unless they can

easily be turned tip. Silk petticoats and rxistlmg

garments of all kinds are quite out of place,

neither should jingling bracelets nor long

chains be worn, as they are not only noisy but

550

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

daiigorous, being liable to catch on a table-

cloth or quilt and cause an accident. The nurse

should alwaj's wear quiet shoes with india-

rubber heels if possible, or, if nursing at night,

she might wear felt slippers. She should always

walk softly but firmly, and never tip-too about

the room.

If the nurse has had some rest in the day,

and comes on fresh for night duty, she can wear

her day clothes, but if she has been with the

patient all day and has to remain all night

as well, she must undress, or at any rate take

off all tight garments and put on a dressing-

gown so that she can get some rest on a sofa,

or in an easy-chair.

Night-Duty. - If the patient's condition allows

it, it is bettor to have a httle bed in the room

and to go right into it, getting up about every

two hours to give medicine or nourishment, or

do what is necessary. Of course, this cannot

be done in a serious case where a patient is

delirious or requires constant watching. In an

illness of tliis kind it is imperative for the one

who is on charge at night to have some good

sleep during the day in order to be very much

awake and alert, as the patient is often at his

worst at this time, and especially in the early

hours of the morning when his vitality is very

Ipw. Some light and nourishing food must also

be taken during the night, as tliis will tend to

counteract tlie bad effect that overstrain, want

of sleep, and anxiety may have on the body.

Relieving the Nurse. - It sometimes happens

that a number of anxious relatives are desirous

of staying with a person who is very ill in order

to do what they can to help. Now this is a

great mistake : for one reason they use up the

fresh air so greatly needed by the patient, and

for another they all become tired, and thus render

themselves unfit to perform nursing duties

properly. Where there are several friends to

help, they should take it in turn to relieve each

other in the sick-room. Except when help is

needed in lifting the patient, or in rendering him

some special service, it is better that only one

person should bo in attendance at a time. When

the one in charge of a patient leaves another to

take her place - perhaps a friend who has offered

to take night duty - she should leave some

written instructions, such as the time when food

and medicine are to be taken, &c.

Example

Food. Medicine. Stimulant.

Milk, 2 A.M. 11 P.M. 12 A.M.

Bovril or BeeMca, 4 A.M. 3 a.m. 4 A.M.

Millt, C A.M. 7 A.M. 8 A.M,

Eenger'fl, 8 A.M.

I'oultice every four hours. Last poultice put on at 12 a.m.

The friend should be instructed to tick off

the vtu-ious items aa she gives them, and she

in turn should leave a short written report suoh

as the following : -

Example

12.30 A.M. .

Patient restless.

2 A.M.

Slept an hour.

2.30 A.M. .

Patient sick.

3 A.M. .

Complained of pain

4 A.M.

Perspired profusely

6 A.M. .

Slept for two hours.

From the above it is easily seen that patient

had a bad night.

The Professional Nurse. - As a rule the doctor

will say when a trained nurse is needed, but it

is alwaj^s as well to obtain the services of one

in a very serious case where special orders are

given, or where a patient requires attention night

and day. A nurse must be treated with every

consideration. Her meals should be served in

the dining-room, and some one should relieve her

while she takes them. It is the duty of the

people who engage her to see that her food

is regularly and properly served, as otherwise

her health will suffer, and she will be unfit for

her duties. When on night duty she should be

asked what refreshment she would like to have.

As a rule it is tea or coffee and some sandwiches,

or something that she can take easily.

When only one nurse is in attendance, it is

usual for her to do the night duty. Before going

off duty she attends to the patient's toilet and

does what is necessary for him before she leaves.

She is often busy during the greater part of the

morning. If possible, she should go out for a

walk each day. She generally goes to bed soon

after lunch, and should not be disturbed for seven

or eight hours.

Some nurses take their own fees, but more

often these are paid to the association for which

they work. The fees vary from two to three

guineas a week. Laundry and travelling e^.-

pensos have also to bo paid.

Sometimes a visiting nurse can be engaged.

She goes in once or twice a day to attend to the

patient generally, or to carry out any special

order. She will have a tariff of charges, and her

foes vary according to what she does, or the time

she spends at a call. It is sometimes moi-e

convenient to have a visiting nurse where the

sleeping accommodation is limited.

THE DOCTOR

People do not often care to change their

doctor. The family doctor is looked upon as

a true and trusted friend. From him people

expect not only professional attendance, but

all round sympathy and advice, and as a rule

they are not disappointed. Of him Louis

Stevenson says : " He is the flower (such as it

is) of our civilisation."

Wlien it is necessary to choose a doctor, if

possible choose one who lives fairly near, and

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

551

before engaging him ask him what his fees are, so

that there may be no misunderstanding on this

point. Except among the poorer classes the

doctor does not often receive payment at the

time of his visit ; as a rule the bill is sent in

quarterly or half-yearly, and sometimes only

once a year. When the bill is sent in it should

be promptly paid. A doctor has many bad

debts - not among the poor, but among the

upper and middle- classes. There is no more

strenuous life than that of the doctor, and he

should receive every consideration.

Having chosen a doctor in whom you can

place your confidence, be sure that you follow

his instructions, as the treatment is useless

unless carried out.

A trained nurse is never expected to express

an opinion as to diagnosis unasked. Of coiirse,

a doctor would not expect such a strict ob-

servance of etiquette on the part

of relations or friends, but at the

same time it is only polite to defer

to the doctor in all matters con-

cerning the patient. Do not tell

the doctor that you believe the

patient to be suffering from one

thing when he has diagnosed some-

thing quite different. Then do

not worry the doctor by gi\'ing

him the various opinions of your-

self and friends, but instead

report to him faithfully every

symptom or change you have

noticed since Ms previous visit.

Consultations. - In tne case of

serious illness or uncertain diag-

nosis, it is only natural that the

patient or his friends should wish

for further advice, and no doctor

^vill object to a consultation if he

is approached in a right manner.

When it has been decided to have

a second opinion, speak first to the doctor. The

matter should then be arranged without the

slightest friction. The doctor will probably

have a fellow-practitioner with whom he would

like to consult, or he may be willing to meet a

doctor whom you suggest. If the case is very

grave and urgent, and especially when it is a

question of surgical int'jrference, the doctor

himseK will bo the first to suggest sending for a

specialist, and he will probably wish to call in

some one from his own hospital. In this case

the doctor - with the consent of the patient's

friends - arranges the matter, and the specialist

and doctor visit the patient together and consult

as to what is best to be done. The specialist's

fee must be paid at the time of the visit.

It should be placed in an envelope beforehand

and handed to the doctor, who gives it to the

specialist. The amount is arranged between

the two doctors, and usually varies according

to the position of the patient.

CARE OF THE PATIENT

How to Make the Bed. - When a patient is too

ill to be taken out of bed the bed must be made

while he is in it. This can be done quite easily

if one knows the way. If the under-sheet has

to be changed, roll up the fresh one lengthwise to

half its width and place it near the bed readj'

for use. Then remove the bed-spread and top

blanket, and draw out the top sheet from under

the remaining blanket. Untuck all other bed-

clothes. Turn the patient on his side by means

of the draw-sheet. Wswh and rub his back, and

then pull the night-dress down smoothly while

he is in this position. Next roll the draw-sheet

and then the under-sheet as close as possible to

the patient. Put in a fresh under-sheet and

draw-sheet with the rolled parts quite close to the

patient and on a line with the sheets that are to

Changing Sheets from the Side.

be removed. Then gently roll the patient on to

his other side. He will then bo lying on clean

sheets. The soiled sheets are easily removed

on the other side of the bed, and the fresh ones

unrolled and tucked in under the mattress.

When the sheets have to be put in in this fashion,

care should be taken that the rollings are made

as flat as possible so that the patient can be

turned over them without discomfort. The

rollings should always be uppermost, as it is

easier to grasp and unroll the sheets from the

other side of the bed. If a mackintosh is in

use and there is only one, it should be drawn

out carefully, washed and dried if necessary, and

then rolled in with the draw -sheet when the

bod is made. Of course, it is more convenient

to have a second mackintosh. Always make sure

that the under-blanket, under-sheet, mackintosh,

and draw-sheet are quite smooth and free from

wrinkles ; also that the blanket and sheets are

firmly tucked in under the mattress. The

552

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

patient shovild be covered with a blanket while

his bed is being made.

After the under-shoets have been changed,

put the top sheet over the blanket already

covering patient. With one hand hold the

sheet in position, and with the other draw out

the blanket and put it over the sheet. Next

put on the rest of the bed-clothes.

When it is not necessar j' to change the under-

sheet, the bed is quickly and easily made when

the patient is on a mattress. Ho is just rolled

over from side to side and the draw -sheet either

drawn through or changed. If it happens, as it

sometimes does, that the patient is on a flock or

feather bed and has to remain on it, he must be

rolled as far as possible to one side, and the bed

must be gently shaken, and the flocks or feathers

pushed into the hollow in the middle. He is

then rolled to the opposite side of the bed, and

the second side is shaken in the same way. It is

possible for one nurse to make the bed and roll

in the sheets, but it can bo done better and

more quickly by two people, and an amateur

nurse should always have assistance.

Sometimes a patient cannot be turned from

side to side. In this case the clean under-

Changing Sheets from the Top of the Bed.

sheet can bo put in from the head of the bed.

It should be rolled up widthwise. The patient's

head and pillows are raised by one nurse, while

her assistant pushes down the soiled sheets and

rolls in the clean one. The head and pillows

ore then lowered into position, the shoulders

and then the other parts of the body are gently

raised, the soiled sheet is pushed downwards to

the feet, and the clean sheet is gradually un-

rolled until it covers the bed. The draw-sheet

would, of course, bo rolled out with the undor-

sheet, and would have to be put in afterwards.

One nurse would raise the lower part of the body

while the other nurse rolled in the draw-sheet.

If a patient is not very ill, he can often lift

himself enough for his draw-sheet to be put

into place. To raise the lower part of his body

he should be instructed to press his head firmly

on to his pillow and his heels into the bod.

When a patient can only be raised a very little,

the clean draw-sheet can be fastened to the

edge of the soiled one ^^ith safety-pins. One

nvu-se pins the two sheets together and gently

raises patient's body, and a nurse on the other

side of the bed draws the two sheets through

quickly. Both nurses pull on to the shoot to-

gether to ensure its being straight. It is then

tucked firmly under the mattress on both sides

of the bed.

When a patient slips down towards the

foot of the bed, he can be lifted back into

position on the draw-sheet. It must be untucked

and rolled up qviite close to the body on each

side : a nurse on either side of the bed must

grasp the sheet where it is rolled tip and near

its upper and lower margin. In this way there

is a better purchase than if the hands were close

together. Both nurses must lift together, and

the patient must be instructed to lift his head at

the same moment. If he is unable to do this,

a third person must pass her arm

under the pillow and so support

the head, while the othei-s lift.

Of covirse, an injured limb would

need to be supported. A patient

can also be lifted by two persons

- one on each side - joining hands

under his shoulders and buttocks.

Great care should be taken to

arrange the pillows properly. It

is quite easy to see when the

pillows are comfortable. When

a patient is propped in a sitting

position cai-e should be taken that

the back, neck, and head are pro-

perly supported, otherwise there

will be great discomfort. An in-

jtirod limb has always to be

siipported on a pillow. When a

patient has his legs drav^m up, a

pillow should be put under the

knees.

In some illhesses patients have

to be kept between blankets. When this is

the case put a warm soft blanket loosely over

the patient. Put a sheet on the top, and let it

come up a little higher than the blanket, as it

is not pleasant to have the latter against the

face. Bed-clothes should not be folded over the

patient's chest - their weight is exhausting.

The extra lengths can be folded over or tucked

in at tho foot of the bed.

Change of Bed. - An invalid can often be lifted

on to another bed, or on to a sofa while his bed

is made. He should be lifted in the under-sheot,

which must be strong, and if tho patient Ls heavy

the under-blanket must be used as well. Enough

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

553

of the top bed-clothes should be left to keep

the patient warm, and one small pillow can be

placed under the head. The number of bearers

needed in lifting will depend upon the weight of

the patient. The under -sheet should be rolled

up close to the body on both sides. The bearers

grasp the rolled parts of the sheet and hft gently

and together. It is better to have the bed or

sofa on wliich the patient is to be lifted placed at

the side of the bed.

When a patient is well enough to sit up while

his bed is made, a comfortable chair should be

placed near and a large thick blanket spread

over it. Another blanket should be wrapped

round his body and legs as he is helped out of

bed, and when he sits down he should be en-

veloped in the blanket which was spread over

the chair. If the weather is cold, he should

have on a bed-jacket and warm socks before

he steps out of bed.

Water-Cushions and Beds. - In a long illness or

where the patient is very thin or helpless, a water-

cushion is necessary. It should be placed under

the lower part of the body to keep pressure off the

back and hips. A cushion twenty-eight inches

by eighteen inches will usually answer the pur-

pose very well. It should be filled with water at

about 90№ Fahr. or less if the weather is very hot.

The empty ctishion should be rolled under the

patient in the same way as sheets are changed

and then filled. A funnel should be used, and

great care must be taken not to spill the water.

Continue pouring in water until there is sufficient

in it to prevent any nart of the patient's body

I)ressing on the floor of the

cushion ; it must not be

too full or it will be hard.

A ring water-cushion is

often very useful.

Air-cushions are also used,

but they are apt to get

very hot and are not so good

as water ones.

Sometimes a full-sized

water-bed is necessary. In

this case boards have to be

placed across the bedstead

from side to side, to support its weight and to

keep it perfectly straight.

The Patient's Toiiet.- The daily bath is

needed in health and is even more necessary

in a long illness. Before commencing to bath

a patient see that the room is warm, and put

eveiy thing that is likely to be required in readi-

ness, i.e. basin of hot water, a face sponge, a

flannel for washing the body, some good soap,

a can of hot water, a pail for emptying water,

methylated spirits, powder, &c. Have a night-

dress airing at the fire ; there should always be

two in use - one for day and one for night.

A fresh draw-sheet should also bo in readiness

in case it is needed. Tommence by remo\'ing

the bed-spread and drawing out the top sheet ;

Air-Cushion.

then slip a largo bath-towel under the blanket.

If the room is warm only one blanket is needed

over the patient while he is being washed. If

he is at all collapsed or likely to feel cold, put a

hot bottle to his feet before you commence to

wash him. A patient should never be hurried,

but at the same time he should be washed as

quickly and deftly as possible, as otherwise he

will be tired before liis toilet is finished.

First wash and dry the face, then the neck,

hands, and arms. Next wash the lower limbs

under the blanket, tucking a towel close up to

the part that is being washed to avoid wetting

the bed-clothes. Turn the patient towards you

a little way to wash and rub the hip on the

further side. Next draw the bath-towel from

under the blanket, roll patient on his side, lay

the bath-towel up close alongside him and

wash the shoulders and back. The lower part

of the back and the hips must receive special

attention, and should be rubbed with methylated

spirits and powdered after drying.

When washing the feet, turn back the bed-

clothes from the foot of the bed, let the patient

draw up Ms knees, place a mackintosh and towel

under the feet, and put the foot-bath on the

bed. The feet can then be put right into the

bath.

When the washing is complete put on the

patient's night-dress and replace the sheet and

bed-spreaa. The night-dress should always be

quite loose, so that it can be easily put on.

In some cases it is necessary to have it opened

up the back as far as the yoke or collar, which

is just slipped over the head. Only one garment

should be worn in bed, but a warm flannel bed-

jacket should be at hand to put on if the patient

sits up or has his arms out of bed. Long loose

flannel jackets are the most useful, especially

in rheumatic fever and pneumonia cases, where

the slightest movement causes great pain.

They should be qmte plain, the sleeves should

be large and loose, and tied at the wrists with

tapes.

In a serious illness it is sometimes impossible

to wash a patient properly, although the doctor

may order frequent sponging to reduce the

temperature. In this case a loose flannel

jacket would be the most convenient garment to

wear, as the removal of a tight night-sliirt would

be too exhausting for the patient.

Care of the Teeth. - In these days great atten-

tion is being paid to the hygiene'of the mouth,

and it is most important that a patient's teeth

should be kept clean. With a Uttlo help he can

often clean his own teeth, even when not able

to sit up in bed. Place a towel under the chin,

moisten the tooth-brush and dip it in the denti-

frice, and hold the bottom of the soap-dish in

position for rinsing the mouth.

Wlien a patient is too iU to brush liis teeth,

this must be done for him. A soft tooth-brush

is the best tiling to use dipped in warm water

554

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

witli a few drops of liquid dentifrice, a little car-

bonate of soda, or weak Sanitas lotion. Clean

not only the tooth and gums, but the tongue

and roof of the mouth as well. This might

be repeated two or three times a day.

Care of the Hair. - Tliis must also have its

duo share of attention. In a short illness the

doily brushing and combing are generally

suflicient, and it is easy to keep a man's head

clean. A woman's hair should be plaited - one

plait on each side, but if the hair is thin and

short it is sometimes better to brush it up on to

the top of the head. In a long illness the scalp

should be rubbed frequently with some good

and reliable hair-wash to keep it in good condi-

tion. If there is much hair only half of it should

be done at a time. A patient's hair -brush and

comb must be kept scrupulously clean. When

the hair itself has to be washed, spread a mackin-

tosh and large bath -towel over the pillow.

Consideration for the Invalid. - In a very

serious case it is better to keep the patient as

quiet as jiossible, and to allow no \dsitors, unless

it is some one whom the patient particularly

wishes to see. Even then the visitor should be

warned that ho is to talk as little as possible and

told not to speak of subjects Ukely to cause ex-

citement. When the worst is past and during

convalescence it often cheers a patient to see

a few friends, but no visitor should be allowed

to make a long stay, as even in convalescence

a person is often so weak that over-excitement

may mean loss of sleep - " Nature's sweet

restorer " - which is so sorely needed after a

serious illness.

Never allow a visitor to sit on the bed. It

shakes and irritates the patient and causes

great discomfort, if not actual pain, and it

makes the bed look untidy.

Well-moaning people often cause trouble by

calling to inquire after an invalid, and unless

one can bo of real use to the patient or his friends

it is kinder not to call until the worst is over.

There is always extra work whore there is sick-

ness and no one has time to talk to visitors.

In tho case of a serious illness a daily bulletin

might be put on the front door, and tliis will

save not only the extra work entailed in answer-

ing the door to callers, but, what is more im-

portant, it will prevent the patient being dis-

turbed by tho constant ringing of the bell. In

fact, it is always bettor in the case of serious

illness to put up a notice asking visitors not to

ring, but to go round to tho back or side-door,

where soft knocks can easily be heard by the

servant. Of course, many small houses and

flats have no side-door. In a case of this kind

some plan must be thought out by tho friends

to ensure quiet to the patient. Necessary

noises can be borne more easily than unnecessary

ones. Although a person may be very ill he has

not lost all reasoning power, and he is naturally

vexed and irritated if he thinks that people are

not doing all that is possible to give him the

necessary peace. Ringing of bells, banging of

doors, and rattUng of fire-irons, crockery, or

newspapers are unnecessary noises which should

not be allowed. Tlie clicking of knitting-needles

is another sound which might be annojdng to a

patient. It is a rhytlimic sound like the ticking

of a clock, and might even bo soothing in some

instances, but an observant person can easily

see what vexes and what pleases and should act

accordingly.

Then, again, do not read aloud to a patient

unless you are quite sure he wishes it. Some

people like being read to when they are ill ; to

them it is soothing, while to others it is quite

tho reverse. Of course, when a patient is very

ill and tho temperature is high there should be

no reading aloud, as it would cause undue ex-

citement, and even when there is a change for

the better it is important that the patient should

get all the sleep he can to nuake up for past wake-

fulness, and too much reading would serve to

deprive him of a measure of this much-needed

rest. Whispering is a bad habit which should

never be permitted in the sick-room. The

patient will wonder what is being said that he

may not hear, and will probably come to the

conclusion that he has some very serious

symptoms.

An Insensible Patient is like a child and is

dependent on his nurse for everything. She

must see that he is warm, and that his bed is

dry. If hot bottles are necessary, they should

be covered, as serious burns have often been

caused through neglect in this respect.

In a case of this kind the vitality is very lew,

and persons easily get bed-sores unless the

greatest care is taken. These can easily be

prevented, but they are difficult to cure when

once thoy develop. A water -pillow is valuable

to keep the pressure off the back and hips. lu

is also important to examine the patient about

every two hours, and if tho draw-sheet is found

to be wet it should bo changed, the back and hips

washed, well dried, and rubbed with zinc oint-

ment. The position of the patient should be

changed frequently in order to relieve pressure

on any particular spot. If he has been lying on

his back for two hours he might be placed on his

side for the next two hours, a pillow being placed

along the back for support. This change of

position also prevents the lungs from getting

congested. A patient who is allowed to lie

long on his back will often contract serious

chest trouble. The friends at once conclude he

has " caught a cold," and, in consequence, wish

to close the windows, whereas tho trouble is

due to his having been left too long in one

position. An unconscious patient can often

breathe better on his side, so if he can breathe

equally well on either side he can bo turned from

side to sido alternately and need not lie on his

back at all.

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

555

Nourishment must be given very slowly and

carefully with a tea-spoon, very little being given

at a time. The spoon should be kept in the

mouth until the contents are gone, as it encour-

ages the patient to swallow. Be quite sure that

the drink is swallowed before giving more, and

do not go on feeding if you find he cannot

swallow, as what is given will only get into the

air passages, and may cause suffocation. The

head should always be turned a Uttle to one side

for feeding, as the food is less likely to go the

wTong way. It can be kept in position by a

small pillow nicely adjusted, or with the nurse's

arm passed under the pillow.

Nursing an Infectious Case. - The patient must

be isolated. A room at the top of the house

should be prepared, and, if possible, the entire

floor should be kept for the patient and his

attendants. All carpets, drapery, and unneces-

sarj"^ furniture should be taken out of the room

before the patient is taken into it. The furni-

ture which remains should be of the plainest

description, and the few covers or curtains that

are allowed should be of washing materials that

can be well boiled. A sheet kept well saturated

with carbolic (1 in 20) should be hung over the

doorway outside the sick-room. The room must

be kept scrupulously clean, and there must be

good ventilation without draughts. Unless the

weather is very hot there should be a fire. All

crockery used by the patient must he kept for

him, and should be washed in the room or in a

room adjoining. The food should be brought

up and placed CjI a table outside the sick-room,

and any that is left should be burned.

The patient must be washed every day, the

greatest care being taken that he does not get

a chill. It is important that the skin should

act properly and so help to eUminate impurities,

as otherwise too much work will be thrown on

the kidneys. When the patient's linen - either

bed or personal - is changed, the soiled articles

must be put into a bath containing carbolic

(1 in 20) or some Jeyes' fluid. They should

afterwards be boiled for half-an-hour, and then

dried in the open air.

All discharges from the patient must be

received in vessels containing a disinfectant.

Japanese handkerchiefs, or pieces of rag which

can be burnt should be use I in place of ordinary

handkerchiefs.

The person attending the patient should

not mix with the other members of the family.

She should wear a dross of washing material and

be cai'oful to wash her hands frequently. She

should keep her nails short and clean and should

frequently wash her mouth with boracic lotion.

If she goes out she should have a bath and change

her clothes, and she ought not to enter a shop or

any public conveyance.

Before the patient joins the family he should

have a number of hot batlis, and should be

washed all over with carbolic (1 in 20). He

must afterwards put on clean clothes. The

nurse must be very thoroughly disinfected in

the same manner. All her clothing worn in

the sick-room must be boiled or stoved.

The patient's nail-brush, tooth-brush, papers,

&c., should all be burned. All crockery, forks,

spoons, &c., used in the room should be well

washed in strong disinfectant, and, if possible,

boiled afterwards. The bedding and blankets,

and any of the patient's garments that ceinnot be

boiled, must be sent away to be stoved by the

Sanitary Authorities. If carpets and woollen

di-apery have been left in the room, they must

bo treated in the same manner.

The room must then be disinfected. All

articles left in it should be spread out and

well exposed - drawers and cupboards being

left open. This disinfecting can be done by

the Sanitary Authorities, who either fumigate

with sulphur or spray with formalin. The room

must remain shut up for twenty-four hours, and

for a day or two afterwards the windows and door

should be left wide open to allow the air to blow

through. The room and its contents should after-

wards be very thoroughly cleaned. All paint

should be washed with soap and water, the ceiling

white-washed, and the walls re-papered, the old

paper being first stripped off and burned.

To fumigate a room with sulphur the chimneys

and windows must be closed, and all crevices

covered with strips of brown paper. These are

generally pasted on, but this is not necessary

where there is varnish : the paper need only bo

wetted and it will adhere quite well, and is

more easily removed. Put about one pound of

sulphur or more broken into small pieces, accord-

ing to the size of the room, into an iron dish or

pan. Stand this in a bath containing water,

as a precaution against fire. Sprinkle with a

few drops of methylated spirits and set it alight.

Leave the room at once, close the door, and

cover all cracks with strips of brown paper.

Routine of a Day's Work. - Sometimes after

a bad night a patient may sleep for some hours

in the early morning. When he wakes he will

need refreshment. If on soUd food and able

to take ever so light a meal, he should have his

hands and face sponged before being propped

up to take his breakfast. If very ill he will of

coxirse only be able to take liquid diet. The

fireplace should be done up next and a supply

of coals brought in for the day. While the

servant is doing this, the nurse could take the

opportunity of performing any duties that would

take her out of the room. Tlie next thing

should be the patient's toilet. After he has been

washed, &c., the room should be put in order

and made to look as cheerful and bright as

possible. By this time the doctor will probably

be due. Wlien a patient is taking solid food

let him, if possible, have his dinner after the

doctor has been. Tliis visit is generally an

event which causes some excitement to thљ

556

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

patient, and he is almost sure to hurry his dinner

or not take it properly if he is expecting the

doctor, and if the visit is paid in the middle of

dinner the meal ^v^ll probably be spoiled. Tlie

patient should be allowed to rest in the early

afternoon, and at about foiu: he can have a cup

of tea unless this is forbidden. In the early

evening the temperature, &c., should be again

taken, and the patient should have his hands

and face sponged, and, if necessary, his back

should be attended to. If he is allowed, he

might sit up in a chair and have his bed made

in the evening ; he might even be able to sit up

for an hour or two.

It is, of course, quite impossible to lay down

any hard-and-fast rule as to what is to be done

during the day, as so much depends upon a

patient's condition and the special treatment

that is ordered. In some cases one is constantly

ha^^ng to perform special nursing duties for a

patient, and many things may happen to make

it impossible to do things at stated times, but

as far as possible do everything regularly,

whether it is giving nourishment - one of the

most important duties in sickness - taking a

temperature, washing the patient, or doing what-

ever the doctor orders.

. Convalescence. - Convalescence is often the

most trying time for both patient and nurse.

Do not think that when the worst is over there

is no further danger. For some time afterwards

the greatest care is needed if a patient is to re-

gain his lost strength and not fall a victim to

some other disease, such as phthisis, which often

follows pneumonia, measles, typhoid, &c. The

invalid's low condition makes him an easy

victim to disease germs, which, like mean

cowardly people, are always waiting to attack

the weak. The patient will need the same care

in feeding, and it may be necessary to take great

pains to tempt his appetite, as he will require

plenty of nourishment. On first getting up he

should not be dressed, as he will be very weak

and incUned to faint, but put on a warm dressing-

gown and a pair of socks and wrap him well

round in a blanket. At first he should only sit

up for a quarter or half -an -hour, the time being

gradually increased as ho gets stronger. Ho

should always be in a well-ventilated room, and,

if possible, should take rest on a balcony or in a

garden.

Friends must be admitted with caution and

not allowed to stay too long, especially towards

evening. Try to keep your patient cheerful

und free from worry ; this is not always easy,

as frequently he may be inclined to become

irritable and very exacting. Do not, however,

despise him for his capricious way, for his in-

decision of character, but nurse him back to

health with the same patience as was shown

to him during his hours of pain.

He should only be allowed to resume his

ordinary duties gradually, and for a time should

rest a little in the afternoon, take his breakfast

in bed, and retire early.

A change of air, to the sea or country, is

needed after a long acute illness.

FOOD

There is nothing more important in an illness

than diet, and much depends on a patient taking

liis food properly. In this the doctor's orders

must be strictly carried out. Many a person

has died through improper food being given by

foolish friends, as, for instance, solid food given to

any one suffering from gastric trouble or typhoid

fever.

Liquid Diet. - When a patient is very ill ho is

usually kept on a Hquid diet and milk is gener-

ally ordered, as it contains all tho elements

necessary to Ufe, and is easily assimilated.

Sometimes as much as three pints of milk are

ordered to be taken in twenty -four hours or a

teacupful every two hours. It often happens,

however, that a patient is unable to take as

much as this, and when this is the case, it is

better to let him take a smaller quantity and

digest it rather than force him to take a larger

quantity wliich will only cause sickness or in-

digestion. When only a little milk can be taken

at a time, the feeds should be more frequent.

Four or five table spoonfuls might be given

every hour, or even a smaller quantity every

half-hour.

Some people have a great dislike to milk and

often cannot digest it unless diluted. This may

be done by mixing it with soda-water, plain

water, or thin barley-water. It is also well to

vary a milk diet as much as possible. Sometimes

the milk may be given hot, at other times cold,

or it can be flavoured with a Uttle strong co3ee,

cocoa, or else tea can be made with milk. Some-

times for a change a patient may like Horlick's

Malted Milk or The Allenbury Diet, or, again,

the plain milk might be made into junket.

When the digestion is very bad the doctor

may order the milk to be peptonised. This can

be done with Fairchild's peptonising powders,

and the directions are found on the box con-

taining the powders, or Benger's Food, which

is also pre-digested, might be given for a change.

This also must be prepared according to the

directions given on the tin.

When there is difficulty of digestion, the feeds

should bo taken very slowly - merely sipped.

In cases of extreme exhaustion more nourish-

ment may be needed, and then eggs may be

beaten up in the milk, or a little strong beef

essence. Brand's essence or Panopeptin may

bo given between the feeds.

When brandy has been ordered give it in a

little soda-water, plain water, or in a small

quantity of milk. It should never bo put into

a tumbierful of milk, as it will flavour the whole

and may bo objectionable to the patient, aiid

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

557

he would be unable to take such a large quantity.

Brandy should not be poured out long before

being taken, as it loses its stimulating properties

and becomes useless.

It should be remembered that beef-tea is not

so much a food as a stimulant, and should be

given alternately with other food. Milk can be

given alternately with beef -tea, invalid bovril,

veal or chicken broth, or the white of an egg

can be lightly beaten up and given with soda-

water or plain water.

In cases where only a little is taken, give

nourishment in a concentrated form, such as

strong beef -essence, or Panopeptin, &c.

In most cases it is a good thing to give the

patient plenty of water, but it must not be given

instead of nourishment. When there is great

thirst, barley-water flavoured with lemon may

be given

Feeding a Helpless Patient. - In feeding a

helpless patient put a table napkin under his

chin and then place one arm under his pillow

and gently raise liis head. Use a small teacup or

glass for the feeds if possible, as a patient usually

prefers this to a feeder. When the latter has

to be used it must be most carefully washed and

The "Ideal" Feeder.

frequently scalded, as, unless great care is taken,

some particles of food wall be left in the spout.

The " Ideal " feeder is to be recommended, as

it has no spout, which is an advantage.

Regularity in Feeding. - When a patient is on

fluid diet only, his feeds should be given at regular

intervals by night as well as by day. It must

also be remembered that his strength is at its

lowest ebb in the early hours of the morning,

and care should be taken that he has some

nourishment at that time. If he is at all cold,

give a -warm drink, and a stimulant if this has

been prescribed. If a patient is having a good

sleep he may sometimes be allowed to miss a

feed, but if very exhausted he must never bo

left too long without nourishment.

Diet in Convalescence. - From fluids a patient

goes on gradually to light solid foods. At first

it may be that his milk or beef-tea is only

tliickened with a Uttle arrowroot or cornflour,

then he may have bread and milk, a lightly

boiled or poached egg, or some milk jelly or

pudding. After this would follow fish, either

boiled or steamed, then chicken boiled, steamed,

or roasted, and a little later a steamed or grilled

chop. Always try to give the food which is most

nutritious and most easily digested. When the

diet is restricted prepare the foods allowed in

the most varied ways possible.

The most easily digested vegetables are

cauliflower, chicory, spinach, boiled lettuce, sea-

kale, and celery. Most vegetables should not

be given at first.

All fruit given should be fresh, and, as a rule,

it is better stewed than raw. A little fresh

cream may be given with the fruit, as this is

a good way of supplying the invalid with fat.

Stewed apples with cream or stewed prunes and

cream are both very good dishes.

On pp. 558-59 are given a few recipes,

specially suited to invaUds, and many dishes

suitable for the convalescent stage will be found

in the "Guide to Cookery " (p. 116), while those

who wish to study the subject more fully might

consult a special book on invahd cookery,

such as the " Art of Cooking for InvaUds,"

by Florence B. Jack.

As soon as solid food is allowed, the meals

should be given regularly at the ordinary hours.

A patient is sure to take liis food better when

this is done. He will onty be able to take small

meals at first, and must have good nourishing

drinks in between. He must also be fed during

the night. The quantity he needs will vary

according to how much ho takes in the day, and

whether he sleeps or not at night. If a break-

fast-cup of milk, thin arrowroot or Benger's is

given the last thing, and the patient sleeps well,

he may not need feeding again until the early

morning, but if he is wakeful and does not take

food well, ho will need nourishment every two or

three hours. It is most important that a patient

should take his food well in the eeirly stages of

convalescence.

Preparation of the Meal. - Whatever food is

given should be the best of its kind, and never

stale or tainted in any way. It is also im-

portant to have it well cooked, and all utensils

used must be kept scrupulously clean. The

cooking should not be done in the invalid's room,

as the smell of the food would be sure to spoil

his appetite.

Never ask a patient what he would like, but

find out what his tastes are in some other way

and indulge them as fai" as possible, always

providing that they do not incline toward&

prohibited articles of diet.

A bad appetite can often bo stimulated with

a tasty little meal that comes as a surprise.

The meal must also bo daintily served. Always

have a perfectly clean and pretty tray-cloth,

and use nice bright glass, china, silver and

cutlery. If there is a garden from which a fresh

supply of flowers may be had, a small bunch of

558

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

freshly gathered flowers or even a single sweet-

smelling bloom might be placed on the tray.

Take care that a hot meal is really hot, and also

have the plates properly warmed.

Do not give a patient too much at a time ; a

piled-up plateful might set him against the food,

whilst a second helping can easily be given.

\Vlien a meal is to be served, have the patient

comfortably propped up beforehand, and see

that he has on a warm bed-jacket or other wrap.

A jacket is always better than a shawl.

Keeping the Food. - Never keep food in the

sick-room if you can help it, but, if possible, put

it in a cool larder, only taking enough in tho

room for immediate use. At night when it may

not be possible to leave tho room, the nourish-

ments might be placed on a little table outside

the door on the landing and near an open

•window if convenient. Only hght nourishment

is given at night, and jugs of beef-tea or milk

may be kept outside on the window-ledge if the

weather allows. The jugs must then be covered

with clean musKn - a large bead on each corner

will generally serve to keep a piece of muslin

in position, but if the wind is high or there is

danger of dust and smuts, small plates or

saucers will be better.

Beef Juice

Ingredients. - From 4 to 6 oz. lean juicy

beef - salt.

Method. - Clioose a piece of beef from the

rump or upper part of the round and see that

it is freshly cut. Remove all fat, broil the meat

quickly on both sides for one or two minutes

to set the juice free. Tlien cut it in strips and

squeeze out the juice with a lemon-squeezer

or vegetable -presser into a warm cup. Add

salt if necessary, and serve at once, as it does not

keep well.

Beef-Tea

Ingredients -

} lb. lean, juicy Beef. I A pinch of Salt.

I pint Cold Water. I

Melhod. - Wipe the meat with a damp cloth

to make sure of its being quite clean.

Then place on a board, and with a sharp knife

scrape or shred down as finely as possible, keep-

ing back any pieces of fat and skin.

Put it into a ba.sin with the salt and water,

stir it well up, cover tho basin with a plate, and,

if time permits, let it stand for half -an hour.

Then pour all into a clean lined saucepan,

place the pan over rather a slow fire, and, with

two forks placed back to back, whisk it well

until it almost reaches boiling point. Tlien

draw the ]ian to the side of the fire, put on the

lid, and allow the beef-tea to simmer as slowly

as possible from ten to twelve minutes.

Strain and remove the fat from the top with

a piece of paper.

Steamed Fish

Ingredients -

1 filleted Haddock, Whiting,

or Sole.

A pinch of Salt.

A pinch of White Pepper.

A little Butter.

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Method. - Cut the fish into neat pieces and

place them on a greased plate.

Sprinkle with a little salt and white pepper, if

it is allowed, and squeeze over some lemon juioe,

which helps to keep the fish firm and white, and

also aids digestion. Cover the fish with a piece

of greased white paper and then with a lid or

basin. Place this over a pan half full of boiling

water, and cook from twenty to thirty minutes,

until the fish loses its clear, transparent appear-

ance, and looks quite white. If the pieces are

thick it will be better to turn them once dvu-ing

cooking. The liquid that is on the plate when

the fish is cooked is the juice from the fish, and

should be served with it.

This is the lightest and simplest mode of

cooking fish for an invalid.

Sometimes a white sauce is made (see p. 146)

and poured over it. The liquid in this case

should be added to the sauce.

Stewed Fish

Ingredients -

1 filleted Fish- Whiting,

Haddock, Sole, or Plaice.

1 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.

i gill Cold Water.

1 gill Milk.

i oz. Butter.

1 tea-spoonful

Parsley.

White Pepper

Salt.

chopped

Method. - Wipe the fish with a damp cloth,

and cut it into small, neat pieces. Take a clein

lined saucepan, rinse it out with water to prevent

the fish sticking to it, and place the pieces of fish

at the foot. Sprinkle over them a little salt and

white pepper, pour on the milk and water ; put

the lid on the pan, and let the fish cook slowly

by the side of the fire until it is ready, which

will bo from ten to fifteen minutes. Lift out the

pieces of fish on to tho plate on which they have

to bo served, and keep them hot. Add the

bread-crumbs and tho butter to the water and

milk in tho pan ; stir over the fire for a few

minutes until the bread-crumbs swell and thicken

tho sauce. Sprinkle in the parsley, finely

chopped, and then pour tliis sauce over the fish.

Chicken or Veal Panada

Ingredients -

J lb. breast of Chicken, or

J lb. fillet of Veal.

1 tea-spoonful Cold Water.

Method. - Wipe tho meat, and cut it into small

pieces, free from fat and skin. Put it into a cup

or small basin, with a pinch of salt and the cold

water ; tie over it a piece of greased white paper,

and steam slowly from one to one and a half

hours. Then lift out, and put the contents of

1 or 2 table-sp. Cream.

A pinch of Salt.

HOME NURSING Al^D" FIRST AID"

559

the basin into a mortar ; pound well, and rub

through a fine wire sieve. Put the sieved

mixture into a pan, add the cream, and heat

through. This may be served on a piece of

toast, or even cold. If considered too rich, use

a little more water in the cooking, and omit the

cream.

Ingredients-

1 Pigeon.

J oz. Butter.

J pint Stock.

Stewed Pigeon

I tea-spoonful Flour.

Pepper and Salt.

A slice Toast.

Method. - Prepare and truss the pigeon as for

roasting, and coat it over with the flour. Melt

the butter in a small stewpan and, when smoking

hot, put in the pigeon, and brown it on all sides.

Then lift it on to a plate, and pour away all the

grease that is left in the pan. Pour in the stock,

and, wheii warm, return the pigeon.

Put the lid on the pan, and allow the bird to

stew very gently from one to two hours, accord-

ing to age and size. When quite tender lift it

out on to a neat square of toast, and remove the

trussing string from it.

Reduce the gravy in the pan by allowing it to

boil quickly without the lid, until there is just

enough left for serving. Keep it well skimmed,

that it may be quite free from grease, and then

pour it round the pigeon.

Garnish with a sprig of parsley or a little

water-cress.

Raw Beef Sandwiches

Take two ounce of lean, juicy beef. Wipe it

with a cloth, and with a sharp knife shred it

down as finely as you would for beef -tea. Pound

this in a mortar, with any seasoning that may

be allowed, and rub through a fine wire sieve.

Spread between thin slices of bread, with a Uttle

butter on it, if it is allowed, and cut it into neat

strips.

Those sandwiches are generally ordered for

special cases.

A Cup of Arrowroot

Ingredients -

J oz. Arrowroot. I 1 tea-spoonful of Sugar,

i pint of Cold Water. |

Method. - Put the arrowroot into a small basin,

add to it a table-spoonful of the cold water, and

break it with a wooden spoon until qviite smooth.

Then pour on the rest of the water, mix wcl',

and pour into a small lined saucepan. Stir this

over the fire until it boils and thickens, and then

let it boil from seven to ton minutes longer, to

thoroughly cook the arrowroot. Sweeten to

tast", and serve in a cup or small basin.

A little nutmeg may bo grated over the top of

it, and wine or cream added a? wished.

Note. - ^]\Iilk may bo used instead of water.

Tapioca Pudding

Ingredients -

J oz. Tapioca. 1 tea-spoonful Sugar.

J pint Cold Milk. Flavouring (if wished).

lEgg.

Method. - Put the tapioca into a basin, and

pour the milk on to it. Cover the basin, and

let the tapioca soak about an hour. Rinse out

a small hned saucepan, turn the tapioca and milk

into it, and stir over the fire until it comes to the

boil. Then simmer slowly until it turns quite

clear, stirring it every now and then. The time

will vary from twenty to thirty minutes, accord-

ing to the size of the tapioca used. If it becomes

too thick whilst cooking, add a httle more milk.

When ready, remove the pan from the fire, and

sweeten and flavour to taste. After it has cooled

a little, stir in the yolk of egg, and lastly the

white, beaten to a stiff froth. Pour the mixture

into a small greased pie-dish, wiping round the

edges of the dish. Bake in a moderate oven

until nicely browned. Sprinkle with sugar and

serve at once.

Note. - Sago pudding may be made in the

same way.

Ingredients -

2 baked Apples.

J gill of Double Cream.

Apple Cream

A squeeze of Lemon Juice.

Sugar to taste.

Method. - Remove the pulp from two baked

apples, and rub it through a fine wire or hair

sieve, scraping the sieve well underneath. Put

the pulp into a basin, add to it the cream, a

squeeze of lemon juice, and sweeten to taste

with castor sugar. Beat this well for a few

minutes and serve in a small glass dish.

Egg Drink

1 table-sp. Sherry.

1 teacupful of Milk.

Ingredients -

lEgg.

1 tea-spoonful Sugar.

Method. - Break the egg and remove the speck.

Add to it the wine and sugar, and beat together

with a fork, but do not make them too frothy.

Heat the milk in a small saucepan, and, when

almost boiling, pour it on to the egg, &c., stirring

all the time. Serve hot.

Note. - The wine may be omitted. The yolk

of egg only may be used, and soda-water instead

of milk.

Oatmeal Gruel

Ingredients -

1 table- spoonful fine Oat- I J pint Cold Water,

meal. I Salt or Sugar.

Method. - Put the oatmeal into a clean basin

and pour the water over it. Cover the basin

and let it stand for at least half-an-hour, stirring

occasionally. Tlien strain the liquid off into a

small lined saucepan, and press the oatmeal as

560

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

dry as possible. Stu- over the fire until boiling,

and boil from five to seven minutes. The thick-

ness of the gruel is very much a matter of taste ;

if too thick, more water can be added ; or if too

thin, use more oatmeal. Season to taste with

salt or sug6ir. .

A small piece of butter may be added and wine

or brandy if required. Serve very hot. Milk

may be used instead of water.

SPECIAL APPLIANCES

A Bed-Cradle.- When the weight of the bed-

clothes has to be kept off the patient, a " cradle "

is needed. This may be bought for 4s. or 53.,

or, if only for temporary use, one may be easily

improvised. When required

to go over the body, it can

be made from an ordinary

wooden hoop of a con-

venient size. Cut the hoop

in two and place the two

arches thus formed side by

side about half a yard apart.

Join them together at the

top with a piece of wood

across the centre and at the bottom with a piece

•of wood on either side. Or another way is to

make the two halves of the hoop cross each

other, joining them in the middle with a nail.

If the " cradle " is only needed to protect an in-

jured limb, an ordinary kitchen-stool or a strong

bandbox with the lid and bottom removed can

be matle to answer the purpose. Whenever a

♦' cradle " is used, the part it protects must be

covered (under the cradle) with a small Ught

blanket or a piece of flannel.

A Bed-Rest is a contrivance for supporting

a patient's head and back when he is sitting

Bed-Cradle.

a chair on its side with the back towards the

patient. Pillows must, of course, bo placed

between the patient and the bed-rest.

A Bed-Table. - This is convenient to put in

front of a patient when he takes liis meals in

Bed-Eest.

up in bed. Thnre are several different kinds.

Those with an iron frame painted white wth

white canvas laced in are good, as they can bo

easily washed and kept clean. Or a wooden one

with a cane centre is comfortable and easily

adjusted. A bed-rest can also be improvised

if it is only required for a short time by placing

Bed-Table.

bed, and it is also useful for holding a book

or writing materials during convalescence. TTie

simplest kind is made hke a tray on four legs

hollowed out a Uttle in front. Another but moro

expensive table stands on the floor and has a

Table with Revolving Top.

revohang top which can be turned round in

front of the patient when required.

A Pulley is useful in helping a patient to raise

himself. One can be made with a stout piece oi

rope attached to a strong screw in the ceiling.

To the lower end of the rope a bar of wood should

be attached for the patient to grasp when he

wishes to hft himself. A roller towel fastened

to the foot of the bed can also bo made to do

duty as a pulley. .

Hot- water Bottles are frequently needed in

illness. There are several different kiuds. The

stone ones are cheapest, but india-rubber ones

are much more comfortable, while those made

of tin and copper will keep hot tho longest. An

india-rubber bottle is useful in applying heat to

almost any part of the body, and it can even be

used instead of a poultice. If it is put over the

patient, it must not be filled too full, or it will

be too hcavv. When not in use, the india-

rubber bottle' should be filled with air- it is leas

hkely to perish when this is done. Great care

should be taken that screws or corks are quite

Eocuro, and all hot-water bottles should have

flannel covers.

Bed-pans.- These are used for patients who

are unable to get out of bed. Tho most ordinary

shapes are the round and the slipper, and they

may be had either in enamelled tin or stone-

ware. The round one is easily passed under the

patient when the body is slightly raised, men

the slipper is given, the patient's knees should bo

HOME NURSIKG AND "FIKST AID"

561

drawn up, when the tliin end of the slipper can

be gently passed under the back. Care should

be taken to warm the bed-pan before administer-

ing it, either with hot water or before the fire.

If the patient is thin, a little pad of flannel or

cotton wool should be put on the edge to prevent

pressiu^e. In giving a bed-pan a nurse should

pass her free hand under the patient's back to

raise him. If the patient is very heavy and

helpless, two people are needed - one to raise

him and the other to pass the bed-pan. Never

use a bed-pan on which the enamel is worn, nor

one made of ware which is cracked, as both might

cause serious injuries. The india-rubber bed-

pan, which is also an air-cushion, is very viseful

where there is incontinence. It is very com-

fortable, and can be left under patient for any

length of time. It must, of course, be emptied

when necessary, care being taken not to spill

the contents. The receiver part should be lined

with a piece of soft, but strong, paper before it

is put into position, as it is much more easily

emptied when this is done.

Enemata. - An enema is often ordered when

there is constipation, or when it is necessary to

empty the lower bowel. It is usuallj' given

with a Higginson's syringe. This is a tube

with a bulb in the middle

which acts as a pump.

At one end there is a bone

no:5Zile wliich has to be

passed into the rectum ;

at the other end there is

a piece of metal which

acts as a valve. The metal

end is put into the basin

of fluid which is to bo

injected ; the ball in the centre is squeezed,

the water is drawn up and is passed into the

bowel.

Before inserting the nozzle be sure to expel

all air from the syringe. To do this put both

ends of the syringe into the fluid, and squeeze

the bulb a number of times, until there are no

bubbles in the water. If air is injected into the

bowel, it will not only cause pain and discom-

fort, but will probably cause the fluid to bo

returned. When an enema has to be given, the

patient should be placed on his left side with the

knees drawn up. In case oi accidents it is well

to put a mackintosh covered with a towel under

the pelvis. Wliere a patient is in a very feeble

condition, and there is likely to bo difficulty

in retaining the injection, the pillow should be

taken from under the head and placed under the

thighs. Sometimes the patient cannot be turned,

and the enema has to be given as he lies on his

back. In a case of this kind, place the bed-pan

in position before commencing to give the enema.

A patient should always bo told to do his best

to retain the enema while it is being given, and

for a few minutc^s afterwards. Tlio nozzle must

always be smeared with vaseline before use.

Higginson's Syringe,

It is not always easy to pass it into the rectum,

but force should never be used. It should be

passed slowly and gently. The fluid should be

injected very slowly, as it is then much more

likely to be retained. Sometimes there seems

to be a resistance in the bowel, and the fluid

cannot bo passed in ; in this case withdraw the

nozzle, squeeze the bulb, and re-insert the nozzle.

Always keep the metal end of the syringe under

the water in the bowl. For this reason a little

more fluid should be mixed than is required.

If the metal end is uncovered, air will enter

the syringe. If this should happen by accident,

then the nozzle must be withdrawn, both ends

of syringe must be put in the fluid, and the

syringe refilled. The nozzle has again to be

inserted and the remainder of the fluid injected.

Of course, an enema should only be given when

ordered by the doctor, and when an amateur nixrse

is in attendance he would naturally give very

minute instructions and be willing to give all the

information desired.

The most ordinary enema is soap and water.

About a quart is usually given to a grown-up

person ; children are given about one pint, and a

small infant would only be given an ounce.

To make a soap and water enema take a piece of

soft soap about the size of a hazel nut, pour on

boiling water and stir well until the soap has

dissolved. Cold water must be added until

the water is the right heat - 100№ Fahr. The best

plain yellow soap may be used instead of soft

soap.

Turpentine Enema. - This is prepared by

adding from half an ounce to an ounce (one or

two table-spoonfuls) of turpentine to a pint of

soap and water, barley-water, or thin gruel,

according to the doctor's order. Turpentine

mixes best with thin gruel, but whatever is used

great care should be taken that the turpentine is

well mixed.

A Salt Enema is made by adding a table-spoon-

fvil of salt to a pint of thin gruel or water ; the

latter is generally used.

Castor oil Enema. - Mix two table-spoonfuls of

the oil with a pint of soap and water.

Olive oil Enema may be mixed in the same

way, or the oil may be injected first and followed

up with soap and water. It is sometimes a good

plan to inject the olive oil (about eight table-

spoonfuls) at night, and if the patient lies on his

right side it can bo retained without discomfort.

The oil softens the fseccs, and w hen a soap enema

is given in the mornmg there should bo a good

result. Tlio olive oil can be warmed by standing

tho vessel containing it in a larger one of hot

water for a few minutes. It should be about

blood heat. A small sjTingo might be used.

Starch and Opium Enema. - A half to a tea-

spoonful of laudanum is mixed with eight table-

spoonfuls of thin starch. Tliis injection is in-

tended to bo retained, and should be given

cool. Sometimes raw starch is ordered. This

o62

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

is frequently given with a ball syringe. To 611

the ball sjTinge, squeeze the ball in the palm of

the hand, put the point of the nozzle into the

fluid, then gradually loosen tho ball. In this

way the syringe is filled. Tlic nozzle is injected

as far as it will go, and tho ball gradually com-

pressed until it is empty. The ball must remain

compressed until the nozzle has been withdrawn ;

if it is loosened beforehand, some of the fluid

will be drawn back into the s>Tinge.

Glycerine Enema. - Pour from a tea-spoonful

to a table-spoonful of glycerine into a sniall

vessel and stand it in a larger one containing

warm water for two or three minutes to

take off the cliiU. There are special glycerine

syringes, but a small ordinary glass one answers

Glass Syringe.

the purpose quite well. Fill the syringe with

glycerine, and then expel the air by holding tho

syringe with its point uppermost and gently

pushing up the piston until tho glycerine reaches

the point of the syringe. Sometimes a glycerine

suppository is ordered. It is cone-shaped and

, easily given.

Natrient Enemata. - It is necessary in certam

diseases of the stomach, or after an operation,

or when there is vomiting and food cannot be

taken by the mouth, to give nourishment by the

rectum. The fluid given should be about the

consistency of cream, and may be composed of

strong beef -tea, milk, beaten-up eggs, Benger's

Food, Horlick's Malted Milk, or whatever tho

doctor orders. As the food will not pass tlirough

the stomach, it should be artificially digested

before being given, as it is then more easily

absorbed. It can bo peptonisod or artificially

digested with liq. pancreaticus (Benger's) or

with Fairchild's peptonising powders. Failing

these a pinch of salt should be used to each

feed.

For injecting food it is best to use tubing and

. a glass funnel. Have two feet of soft india-

rubber tubing and attach it at one end to a glass

funnel. Tho other end is joined by means of a

small glass tube to a soft india-rubber catheter

Tube with Glass FunneL

- the purpose, but the longer length of tubing is

more convenient. Have the nutriment ready

in a cup or small jug and at a temperature of

about 99№ Falir. Put the funnel, tubing, &0.,

into a basin of warm water and bring all to tho

bedside. Then remove the apf)liance from the

water, smear the catheter with vaseline and

insert slowly and gently into tho rectum about

five inches. Pinch the tubing just below the

funnel and pour in the nutrient, then gradually

drop by drop let it escape into the tube. Not

less than ten minutes should be allowed for

giving the above quantity, and longer if more

is ordered. A trained nurse would be able to

give the enen\ata without assistance, but an

amateur would be glad to have some one to

povu' in the fluid for her. The patient must bo

kept in the same position and quite still for

some time after hav-ing a nutrient enema.

It should be given about every four hours - not

oftener.

When a patient is being fed by the rectum he

should be given a soap and water or plain water

enema every morning. This is necessary to

keep the lower bowel free from debris. The

nutrient injection must not be given until a

good half-hour after the enema. Tubings,

nozzles, catheters, and funnels should always be

boiled for a quarter of an ho\ir after use. A

Higginson's syringe can be cleansed by syringing

hot water through it. A very good one can be

boiled, but an inferior one would probably spoil

in the process. When not in use tho syringe

should be oiled and hung up by a piece of string

attached to the metal end.

Saline Injection. - This is sometimes ordered

in cases of collapse. Allow a tea-spoonful of

salt to a pint of water - temperature 100№ Fahr.

Tliis is best given with the funnel and tubing,

but could bo given with a Higginson's syringe,

when a glass funnel is not procurable. The out-

side of an ordinary glass sj-ringe will answer the

purpose, and the tubing of a

iDabies' feeding-bottle can bo

made to take the place of

catheter and tubing.

Inhalations. - Sometimes a

doctor will order certain drugs

to be inhaled. The inhaler,

which can be piorchased at a

chemist's, is filled with boiUng

water and the drug added. A

jug can also be made to answer

the purpose. A towel should

be wrapped round and made to

cover all the top except the spout from which

the stoam escapes.

Applied Steam.- When it is necessary for the

.vir to bo warm and moist a steam -kettle and tent

may bo ordered. A tent can bo improvised with

a clothes-horse and sheets. Tlie top and three

sides of the bed should be covered in. When a

clothes-horse is not at hand, a long broom-stick

can be fixed to each corner of the bedstead to

make a framework for the tent. Care should

be taken that the air of the room is very fresh.

Inhaler.

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

563

as steam tents are apt to get " stuffy." The

kettle should be placed just outside the tent

and the steam directed towards the patient by

means of a long spout, care being taken that the

steam does not go too near the face. If the fire-

place is conveniently near the tent, the kettle

can be kept boiling on the fire ; if not, a spirit

Steam-Eettle.

or oil-stov"> must be used. Special steam -kettles

can be bought, or a long spout to fix on to an

ordinary kettle can be obtained for fourpence

or sixpence. A long spout can also be im-

provised with brown paper in an emergency,

but this soon softens with the steam, and has

to be frequently renewed.

Spit-Cups. - ^Vhen there is expectoration a

spit-cup is needed. Tliose

with adjustable tops are the

best. Some disinfectant should

always be put into them, as

this prevents the sputum from

getting dry. If there is no

disinfectant at hand or if the

smell is objected to, strong

soda-water can be used. Tlio

cup must be kept scrupulously clean.

Spit-Cup.

THE TEMPERATURE, PULSE, AND

RESPIRATION

In illness it is most important to ascertain the

temperature of the body. This is taken by a

small glass clinical thermometer which is self-

1.V.I i.i..t...i ^-A..\...i'u...r

Clinical Thermometer.

registering. The mercury should always be

shaken down before use. It registers quickest

in the mouth and should be put under the

tongue. If a patient is unconscious it can bo

taken in the axilla, which must first be wiped

dry, and the arm should be held close to the

body, as otherwise the thermometer might slip

out of position and fail to register properly.

In children the temperature is best taken in the

axilla or groin. It is lowest at about four in the

morning and highest between six and eight in

the evening. In some cases it is only necessary

to take it twice a day - morning and evening.

In very serious cases it should bo taken every

four hoiu-s, and sometin es oftener. The normal

temperatia-e is 98-4" F., and anything much above

or below that indicates illness. In rheumatic

fever, typhoid fever, and pneiimonia the tempera-

ture will sometimes rise to 105№ F. and 106№ F.,

and unless means are taken to reduce it, it may

go up to 108№ F. or even 110№ F. In cases of

this kind very prompt measures have to be

taken. Always cleanse a thermom.eter -well

after use. It should be washed in (1 to 20)

carbolic if it is being used for more than one

patient. A patient suffering from phthisis

should always have a thermometer kept speci-

ally for him.

The normal pulse rate in an adult is from

70 to 80 per minute. It is much quicker in

cliildren. In illness it is often very quick, and

in some cases goes up to 180. Always use a

watch with a seconds hand when taking a

pulse and count for a full minute. Note if it

is feeble, irregular, or bounding. With a high

temperature there is usually a quick pulse ;

a very qmck pulse with a sub-normal tempera-

ture is a bad symptom ; it means that the

patient is becoming collapsed.

The normal respiration is from 18 to 20 per

nunute. In a long and serious illness it is a

good plan to register the temperature, pulse, and

respiration on a chart.

MEDICINES

Care aud Administration. - The medicines

should be kept on a little tray and always away

from liniment bottles. Keep them well corked.

In giving medicine, shake the bottle and read

the directions carefully, no matter how many

times you have given the medicine. Pour it

out from the side not labelled, as otherwise

some drops maj' run down and make it im-

possible to read the directions. As far as

possible give the doses regularly and at the

tiines stated. Measure in a proper medicine

glass, and when drops are ordered use a minim

glass. If medicine is ordered to be taken after

[-60

5- SO

.♦o

F-so

- ae

=- |0

Medicine Glass.

Minim Glass.

food be sure you give it after, and if before food

then give it before, otherwise it will not have

the desired effect. If for any reason a dose has

to be missed, do not give a double dose on the

next occasion. Wash and dry the medicine

glass after use.

Castor oil can be given in a little hot coffee.

Pour a little coffee in the medicine glass, then

the castor oil, and then a little more coffee. It

can bo given in the same way with orange or

lemon juice or with brandy. If given in milk

564

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

it should be well beaten up. Cod-liver oil can

be taken in the same way. A little salt taken

afterwards will help to get rid of the taste.

Keep a separate glass or cup for giving oils, and

wipe it afterwards with a bit of old linen. Then

wash bv itself in a little very hot water.

Salts', which must always be well mixed, are

given in a small quantity of hot water before

breakfast, one or two table-spoonfuls being the

dose. Pills, if they cannot be swallowed, may

be put inside bread or jam. Pills are generally

given at night. Powders may be mixed with

butter or jam, or put in a little milk. They are

sometimes put inside little cachets of wafer

paper.

VVhen a sleeping draught is ordered, settle

the patient for the night before giving it, and

see that the house is quiet afterwards.

Liquid Measure

1 drop

1 tea-spoonlul

1 dessert-spoonful

1 table-spoonful

2 table-spoonfuls

1 wineglassful

1 teacupful

1 breakfast-cupful

1 Minim.

1 Drachm.

2 Drachms.

4 Drachms or J oz.

1 oz.

About 2 oz.

4 to 5 oz.

About 8 oz.

BATHS

Special baths arc sometimes ordered in cases

of illness, and they must be given with great

exactitude.

The following are the rules as regards tempera-

ture : -

Cold Bath should be 33№ to 65№ F.

Cool Bath " 65' to 80№ F.

Tepid Bath " 80№ to 90№ F.

Warm Bath " 90№ to 100' F.

Hot Bath " 100' to 112№ F.

Before giving a bath see that the room is

warm, and close the window for the time being.

Have ready a bath thermometer, hot blankets,

towels, and hot bottles or bricks. When a bath

is ordered, it is easily given if the patient can

step in with a little assistance ; if he is too ill

to do this, the bath is generally given under the

doctor's special direction or by a skilled nurse,

m the lifting is a very difficult matter for the

amateur. He should be well dried with a hot

towel, and a warm flannel nightgown should bo

slipped on as quickly as possible. He should

then be wrapped in a warm blanket and put back

to bed with hot bottles, placing them over the

blanket which is covering him. Then give a

hot drink. The u.ses of a hot bath are various ;

it is given to relievo pain and to induce per-

spiration. A patient should be carefully watched

while in a hot bath, as he may become faint.

Great care should be taken that he does not get

a chill. Ho should remain in the bath about

twenty minutes.

Mustard Foot-Bath. - Use from one to two

ounces of mustard to a gallon of hot water.

Mix the mustard first in a little cold water and

add it to the bath. Keep the feet in until the

skin has reddened. A hot bottle should be put

to the feet afterwards. This foot-bath can

easilj' bo given in bed. (See " Patient's Toilet.")

Soda Bath. - Dissolve from a quarter to half a

poimd of soda in a full-sized bath.

The Sulphur Bath. - Dissolve four ounces of

sulphurate of potash in thirty gallons of water.

It should be made weaker for children.

Hot Air and Vapour Baths. - A special apparatus

can be bought for giving a hot-air bath, or it can

be given with an Allen's steam-kettle with the

boiier removed. Have a blanket at the bottom

of the bed. Take off the patient's nightgown,

and wrap liim loosely in a small blanket. Put a

mackintosh under him, then place a cradle over

him, and put a mackintosh over the cradk

Remove the ordinary bed-clothes and put hot

blankets over the mackintosh. See that the

patient is entirely covered except his face. The

lamp is next Ughted and placed on a stool at the

foot of the bed. The tube from the lamp is

passed under the cradle, care being taken that it

does not touch the patient, or he may be badly

burned. Tlie blankets must bo tucked in well

all round the bed, and must fit up closely to the

tube so that the hot air does not escape or the

cold au- enter. A thermometer should be hung

up inside the cradle to measure tlie temperature,

which should be from 110№ to ISO"" F. Give hot

drinks, or, if the patient is very thirsty, he may

have a cold drink of lemon water - either hot or

cold drinks may help him to perspire. Tlie

drinks must be given as ho lies in bed - ^he must

not sit up or take his arms out of bed. At the

end of twenty minutes remove the lamp and

slip out the mackintoshes and cradle. Leave

him wrapped in his blanket for about n.i

hour. Then rub him down quickly with hot

towels, remove the blanket in which he has been

wrapped and the others if damp. Wrap him in

a warm flannel gown and put a hot bottle to his

feet. The ordinary bed-clothes can be put back,

but the patient must have blankets next him.

A Vapour Bath can be given in the same way

as above, but in this case use a steam-kettle.

Moist heat cannot bo borne over 100№ F. to 110№ F.

These baths are usually given in cases of neph-

ritis, inflammation of the kidney, and in rheu-

matism. In both cases the patient should always

wear flannel nightgowns and bo kept between

blankets. When a patient can sit up, a hot-air

or vapour bath can be given as ho sits in a cane-

bottomed chair with blankets wrapped round

him, a lamp being placed underneath the chair.

Or a vapour bath can be given by putting a

bucket of hot water under the chair.

Hot Pack. - Tliis is ordered to induce perspira-

tion. Place a small light blanket rolled up

lenethwise in a bath, pour boiling water over it,

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

ObO

and wring out as hot as possible. It is better

for two people to do tho wringing. Have the

patient on liis side, place the rolled part of the

blanket close to his back. Roll him gently over

and envelop him entirely in the blanket with

the exception of the face and head. Cover with

a hot dry blanket, on the outside of which

place hot bottles. Put on more warm blankets

and give warm drinks. At the end of twenty

minutes remove the wet blanket, dry the patient

with warm towels, change any blankets that are

damp, putting in fresh warm ones, and then put

the patient into a warm flannel night-dress. He

should be left for a time rolled in a warm blanket

under the bed-clothes, and fresh hot bottles

should be put in.

Cold Pack. - Proceed as for the hot pack, but

instead of the hot blanket use a sheet wrung out

of iced water. Spread another sheet over the

patient and rub this down with pieces of ice

to keep it cool. Take temperature frequently.

The patient may remain in this about twenty

minutes unless he shows signs of collapse. Ho

should then be dried, and the wet sheets and

mackintosh removed. Then wrap hin\ in a

warm blanket and put a hot bottle to the feet

if they are cold. The gi'eatest care must be

taken, and the treatiuent must always be

stopped if the patient shivers or becomes blue.

The ice may be omitted.

Cold or Tepid Sponging. - This is often ordered

to reduce the temperatiire. Remove the night-

gown and protect the bed with a bath-towel

or blanket. Cover the patient with a blanket.

Take a large sponge and sponge the whole body

and limbs with long steady strokes from the top

downwards. Turn the patient gently on his

side for the back to be sponged. The sponging

which is done under the blanket should be

continued for about twenty minutes, when the

temperature should be taken. If the patient

perspires very freelj' afterwards, care must be

taken to avoid a chill. It is a good plan to put

hot bottles to the feet while sponging. Hot

sponging will often reduce the temperature

equally well, and is more comforting to the

patient.

POULTICES AND FOMENTATIONS, &c.

A Linseed Poultice. - Have ready a piece of

flannel the size required, and a basin and broad

knife for mixing. Put the knife into the basin

and pour over boiling water to heat them.

Empty the water and pour in sufficient boiling

water for the poultice. Add enough linseed to

make the poultice of the right consistency, and

'[ beat until it no longer adheres to the basin. If

too wet it will scald, and if too dry it will not be

sufficiently hot. Turn the mixture on to the

flannel and spread quickly \n-ith the knife to

about three-quarters of sn inch in thickness,

■ cover with musUn, and turn the edges of the

flannel over to make the poultice neat. Cover

with cotton wool and bandage if necessary to

keep it in position. Brown paper or muslin may

be used instead of flannel.

A Jacket Poultice. - This is intended to go

right round the patient's chest and back. For

an adult it is better made in two parts, care

being taken that it meets on both sides. It

can be kept in position by a broad binder, which

should be rolled under the patient as he lies on lus

side. The poultice for the back is put on first

and held in place while the patient is gently rolled

on his back ; the other poultice is put on the

chest. The binder is adjiisted and fastened

with safety-pins. Instead of the binder a

" pneumonia jacket " of brown wool made up

Paeumonia Jacket.

on muslin could be used to keep the poultices in

position. Being left open down one side and

on the shoulder it is easily made to fit closely,

and can be fastened up firmly with safety-pins.

This jacket should be changed for a fresh one

when the poultices are left off. A jacket

poultice for a cliild can be made all in one, and

should be quite hght and thin. Poultices should

be changed about everj-- three or four hours.

Although continuous poulticing is not so common

as it used to be, a doctor often orders a poultice

to be put on for an hour night and morning,

and during the rest of the time the patient is

wrapped in a " pneumonia jacket."

A Linseed and Mustard Poultice. - Add one

part of mustard to seven or eight of linseed.

Mix the mustard first in a little cold or tepid

water, and add to the linseed while mixing with

the boiling water.

A Mustard Poultice. - ^Make with one part of

mustard to two of flour. Mix flour and mustard

together to form into a smooth paste with cold

water ; spread on brown paper or old hnen.

Lay a piece of muslin over poultice and hold to

the fire to warm a little before applying. Some-

times a doctor will order only mustard and

water to be used. A plaster made in tliis way

should only bo kept on for a quarter of an hour

or twenty minutes.

Mustard Leaves, which can be bought from

the chemist, are sometimes ordered. Moisten a

little in tepid water before applying. A mustard

leaf must only be left on for about a quarter of

an hoiu-, and, when used for a child, muslin must

566

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

be laid over it before it is applied. Wlien a

mustard leaf or plaster is applied, turn a corner

of it up very soon afterwards to see that it is

not blistering the skin - it is intended to redden

but not to blister. Always rub off any mustard

that may be left sticking to the skin after

a mustard plaster is removed, and rub on

vaseUne or cold cream. Mustard is often applied

over the heart in cases of collapse.

A Charcoal Poultice. - Make in the same way

as a Unseed poultice, adding one part of charcoal

to five parts of linseed. Spread on old Unen

and cover with thin gauze.

Bread Poultice. - Put some stale bread into a

small clean saucepan with hot water and let it

boil for a minute. Strain off the water and

spread on old linen.

Hot Fomentations. - These are used when it

is necessary to apply moist heat to any part of

the body. Place a strong towel over a large

basin. Take a piece of flannel the required size

(it should be large enough to be applied double),

put it on the towel, and pour boiUng water from

the kettle over it. Grasp the ends of the towel

and wring the flannel as dry as possible. If the

flannel is left too wet it may scald. Give it a

quick shake out and lower it gradually on to the

p"irt as hot as can be borne. Cover with jaco-

nette or brown paper and a layer of cotton wool.

If the fomentation has to be put on the chest

or abdomen it can be kept in position with

a broad binder. Fomentations are generally

changed frequently, and must never remain on

when cold. Cotton wool should always be put

on when the fomentation is discontinued.

Turpentine Fomentations. - Make in the same

way as above, pouring over one or two table-

spoonfuls of turpentine before wringing it.

Sometimes the turpentine is sprinkled over the

flannel after it has been wrung out, but this may

cause blistering, and the other method is safer.

Laudanum Fomentations. - Sprinkle some lau-

danum over the hot flannel after it has been

wrung out and just before applying it.

Blisters. - Sometimes a blistering fluid is

ordered and sometimes a plaster. Wash the

skin well with soap and water, and if fluid is

ordered paint it on with a camel's-hair brush and

on the exact spot indicated by the doctor.

Take care that the fluid does not trickle down,

or other blisters may be formed. Cover with a

piece of lint or old Unen and cotton wool, and, if

necessary, bandage. Sometimes the blister forms

quickly (in two or throe hours), but occasionally

it takes twelve hours. If there is no blistering

at the end of twelve hours apply a fomentation

or poultice. When formed the blister must be

clipped with a clean sharp pair of scissors.

These should be boiled before and after use.

Let the fluid escape into a vessel, or into

cotton wool. Dress with ointment spread on

the smooth side of lint. Change the dressing

night and morning. If more blisters form they

must be treated in the same way. A blistering

plaster is sometimes ordered instead of the fluid.

It must be cut the necessary size and covered

with cotton wool. Should it not adhere to the

skin, keep in place with adliesive plaster or a

bandage.

Ice Applications. - These are ordered to allay

inflammation or to arrest h.aemorrhage. Tlio

easiest way to apply ice is in an ice-bag, which

can be bought from a cheniist, or a bullock's

bladder maj' be washed and made to do duty.

Break the ice into small pieces and half fill the

bag, squeezing out the air before inserting the

cork. Flannel or lint should always be placed

between the skin and an ice application, and the

bag should not be allowed to remain on after the

ice has melted. The bag should be examined

frequently to see that there is no leakage.

Notes on Ice. - Ice should be kept wrapped in a

clean piece of flannel and placed in a cullender

put over a basin, so that the water can drain off

as the ice melts.

To break ice pierce it with an ordinary hat-

pin or fine skewer.

When ice is being given to a patient to suck,

tie a clean piece of muslin over a glass or teacup

and put small pieces of ice on the top. Give

them to the patient in a small silver tea-spoon.

Ice is given to stop sickness and when there is

great thirst.

AFTER DEATH

When all is over remove one pillow and

straighten the hmbs. Gently close the eyes,

and, if necessary, put on little pads of wet

wool or linen, which can be removed later.

Place a small pad under the chin to keep the

jaw from flropping. If this does not answer,

a jaw bandage must be applied and allowed to

remain for several hours until the jaw is fixed.

Half-an-hour or an hoiu- should elapse before the

" last offices " are performed. This time can be

occupied in getting ready what is needed, and in

making the room tidy. The washing should be

done quickly, the body being sponged under the

blanket in the same way as if the patient were

li\'ing. All must be done with gentle reverence.

Put on a clean night-dress and white stockings.

Tie the legs at the ankles and knees and fold

the hands over the chest. Tlie hair should be

arranged neatly and to look as natural as

possible. If there is a flock or feather-bed it

should be removed - the mattress only remaining.

If there is a mackintosh it should be washed

and left under the sheet. Roll in a clean bottom

sheet, and put a clean one over the top. Cover

tlie face with a clean soft handkerchief. Remove

all soiled linen from the room ; the medicine

bottles should also be emptied and removed, and

the patient's sponge, nail-brush, tooth-brusli, &c.,

removed and burned. The room should then bo

dusted, a clean cover put on tho dressing-table.

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

567

and a few fresh flowers brought in. The

window should be left open from the top and

the blind may be drawn. If there are childi-en

in the house it is better to lock the door, in case

they should go into the room. Death is an

alarming sight for little ones, and a sight from

which they should be spared if possible.

It is wise afterwards to get the bedding baked^ .

even when the case has not been infectious, or

to have it remade. It should always be done

after cancer, or where there has been a foul

wound, and, of course, after all forms of tuber-

culosis. The sanitary authorities will ofteo

disinfect bedding, &c., free of cost.

"FIRST AID" IN SICKNESS AND ACCIDENTS

It is certainly highly desirable, if not absolutely a matter of duty, that every woman should"

be prepared to render efficient aid in the event of accident or sudden illness. A httle timely

knowledge will enable her, if not to actually alleviate the pain of the sufierer, at least to-

prevent further harm being done until the doctor comes. This knowledge is all the more

essential owing to the fact that the immediate treatment of an injured person, or of some

one taken suddenly ill, has a very important bearing on the after progress of the case.

The information contained in the following paragraphs is intended to act as a guide in

emergencies when a doctor is not immediately available, or in cases of simple ailments when

his aid is not needed.

" FIRST AID " IN SICKNESS AND TREATMENT

OF COMMON AILMENTS

Acidity. - This is a form of indigestion, which

is due to an excessive formation of acid in the

stomach. The symptoms are heartburn and a

rising of wind and of bitter stomach contents

into the mouth. Relief is obtained by taking

a tea-spoonful of bicarbonate of soda in a tumbler

of hot water or 30 drcns tincture of rhubarb

tliree times a day after food, or ^ to 1 tea-

spoonful of tincture of gentian taken in about

1 table -spoonful of water before meals.

Bed-Sores. - These can be prevented to a

large extent by careful nursing (see p. 554), and

in the niirsing profession they are generally re-

garded as a disgrace. There are, however, a

few cases where bed-sores will develop in spite

of all one's efforts to avoid them, and they are

by no means easy to cure. They ought to be

washed with carbolic lotion about 1 in 40, with

boracic lotion or a fairly strong solution of

Condy's Fluid and water. The wound should

then bo covered with a piece of lint spread

with boracic ointment, and this may either be

fixed on with narrow strapping or siniply laid

on the place. Care must be taken to avoid

pressure on the part by the use of a circular

air-cushion, or by turning the patient on the

other side if possible. Very superficial bed-

sores will often heal when well dusted two or

three times a day with equal parts of starch

and zinc powder. No dressing need be applied,

but clean linen should be next the wound.

Blackheads. - This is the name of a skin dis-

ease which is common in youth. The symptoms

are pimples on the face and back which have

black spots in the centre. Recent research

shows " blackheads " to be due to a microbe ;,

the black spots are not dirt as formerly sup-

posed, but are caused by diffused pigment.

The treatment consists in the free use of hot

water and soap, followed by an application of

the following lotion : Take 1 tea- spoonful each of

precipitate of sulphur, tincture of camphor, and

glycerine, and mix with 4 ounces (8 table-

spoonfuls) rose-water.

A sand soap should be used once a week -

the ordinary " Monkey Brand " is excellent for

the purpose. The general health requires atten-

tion, and a doctor should be consulted.

Bilious Attacic is a popular name for migraine..

Migraine is not really dependent on disorder of

the liver. The symptoms are headache, defec-

tive vision, and vomiting of a few hours' duration,

only. The causes are eye-strain combined with,

excessive mental work and lack of exercise. In"

reality it is a disturbed circulation in the brain-

which causes the headache, defective vision, and

vomiting. The treatment should be to go to

bed in the dark and sip some hot tea, and after

the vomiting is over to sleep. If attacks are

frequent, the eyes should be tested and suitable

spectacles worn if any defect is detected, plentj'^

of fresh air, exercise, and plain diet should be

secured, and reading in a bad light or in a

railway train avoided. Nausea, headache, pale

motions, and high-coloured urine are the chief

symptoms. The treatment is a free purge and

spare diet, followed by more exercise and fresh

air. If of frequent occurrence a doctor should

be consulted.

Boils are abscesses in the skin. They contain

a central core formed of a fragment of dead

skin. The cause is debility combined with

some local cause, such as the chafing of a coUeir..

568

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

Ichthyol and resorcin ointment applied at a

very early stage will often check the mischief.

Wlien once developed, a cold-water dressing

made of pink boracic lint will help to relieve

the peiin. They are best treated by lancing

and touching the interior with pure carbolic,

and not by the apphcation of a linseed poultice,

as this is apt to induce a crop of boils in the

surrounding area. Tho general health should

also receive attention, especially in regard to

diet, fresh air, and regularity of the bowels.

Bronchitis may be acute or chronic, and

either an independent aSection or due to some

other disease, especially certain fevers. The

disetise consists of inflammation of tho hning

membrane of the bronchi, which are the tubes

into which tho windpipe opens. The treatment

should be confinement to bed in a room tlie

"dr of which is moistened by a steam-kettle and

kept at an even temperature of 60№ in winter

and 65№ in summer. A few drops of terebene

may be added to the water. Special care is

required between two and four in the morning

not to let the temperature of the room fall.

The diet should be light, and plenty of barley

water and lemon drinks allowed. Counter

irritation over the upper part of the chest is at

times useful. Tliis is effected by the applica-

tion of mustard leaves or of turpentine limment.

Medicine is required to make the skin act and

to check the useless cough in the early stage,

and the best for tliis purpose for an adult is

probably ten grains of Dover's Powder at bed-

time. Except in very mild cases the treatment

should be in medical hands from the onset.

Bunion is caused by the prolonged use of

pointed-toed boots. By such boots the big toe

is thrust towards the centre line of the foot and

the base of the toe exposed to pressure unduly.

The frequent repetition of pressure always ex-

cites the growth of the part pressed on, and

the swelling thus caused is known as a bunion.

Hot fomentations may reheve tho pain or the

joint may be painted with iodine if it is not

inflamed. Relief may also be obtained by

placing a pad of cotton wool between the big

and second toe. This takes tho pressvire off

the joint. In severe cases a surgical operation

may be resorted to.

Cold In the Head. - The symptoms are too

famihar to need description. The prevention

of colds may bo effected with some success by

an open-air life, sleeping with the window open,

cold baths in tho mornings, plain diet, and by

suitable clothing and sound boots ; the stuffy

room is tho place in which the cold is caught.

Tho follo^ving will sometimes check a cold in

the early stages : a hot lemon drink made

with the juico of a large lemon, a pint of boiling

water and sugar to taste - drink as hot as

possible - menthol snuff, and camphor pillules

to suck. An attack may also be treated by

inhaling menthol or eucalyptus.

Chilblain is due to the paralysis, by cold, of

the blood-vessels in the affected part. Tho

fingers, toes, ears and more rarely tho tip of

tho nose are most often attacked, and certain

people with a sluggish circulation are more

prone to chilblains than others ; many cliildren

grow out of them. In the first stage of a chil-

blain the part is white and cold ; in the second

stage, congested, hot, red and itcliing. Tlie

treatment should be preventive ; in cold weather

loose woollen gloves should be worn and tight

boots avoided, exercise encouraged, and the

skin kept clean and dry. When the first

sj^mptoms appear rub tho affected part with

the following mixture : one small cupful brown

vinegar, one small cupful turpentine, one small

cupful methylated spirits, one egg - shake all

these together in a bottle and it will be found

an excellent remedy. It is also good for bruises

and pains in the muscles. An apphcation of

tamus communis or ichthyol ointment is also

very good. Relief from itching can be obtaiiied

by soaking the parts in hot water.

Constipation, or Costiveness, is present when

the bowels are not reheved thoroughly once a

day.

The treatment of constipation may bo summed

up in one word - prevention, whereas tho

popular method is to allow violent purging to

alternate with several days of constipation, or

to produce chronic dilatation of the large bowel

by frequent copious enemata.

To have to resort to a pill is in itself a con-

fession of failvire. First, then, acquire a I'egular

habit of obtaining relief for the bowels at the

same time each day. This should always bo

after a meal, because the taking of a meal is a

natural stimulus. The best time is after break-

fast. Regular exorcise must be taken, and fresh

air must bo obtained as much as possible, to

improve the muscular tone. A cold bath in

the morning and massage of the abdomen are

often useful. The diet should contain sufl!icient

laxative materials, such as honey, prunes, whole-

meal bread, and fruits that contain seeds. In

obstinate constipation, however, to continue the

use of much fruit rich in seeds is a mistake,

as it aggravates tho condition. It is when tho

use of these avoids the necessity for medicine

that they do good. When tho above methods

fail, medicine will be required. This medicine

must be as little irritating as possible ; castor

oil, hquorice powder, senna and Apenta water

are all good. Cascara in tabloid form is a little

more irritating, but is good and widely used.

As soon as the bowels are regular the medicine

can bo discontinued, provided that it is re-

sumed if the bowels do not act regularly

without it. All strong aperients must be '

avoided as much eis possible, and left off when

the need for them no longer exists.

Com is an overgrowth of the horny layer of

the skin caused by repeated pressure, such as

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

that due to a tight boot worn daily. Between

the toes, where perspiration is often copious,

the soft variety develops. Soft corns can be

quickly cured by the following treatment:-

Powder well between the toes and put in a

tiny piece of old soft Knen. Starch and zinc or

starch and talc powders can be used. Powder

and Unen should be renewed night and morning.

When the corn is over a joint a felt plaster

will give great relief, or the corn may be de-

stroyed by painting it night and morning with

a saturated solution of saUcylic acid in collodion,

and by protecting it with the plaster. Many

other remedies have been tried for corns, such

as soaking the feet in hot water and cutting

with razors, the use of a file, and the appHca-

tion of galbanum plaster, but the salicylic col-

lodion is preferable.

Cough is a symptom of irritation which is

generally situated in some part of the respira-

tory tract, such as the throat, bronchi or lung

substance, but may be due to irritation of some

distant organ, e.g. the heart and stomach, or

to disturbance of the brain, as in a hysterical

cough. The folly of attempting to apply a

cough cure for all coughs alike is thus apparent.

In the old and young, suppressing a cough with

some soothing sjTup containing opium is very

easy and very dangerous ; a cough should not

be suppressed, but treated by removal of its

cause, and if there be some tenacious secretion

in the bronclii, the secretion requires thinning

by ipecacuanha wine, sweet spirits of nitre, and

sahnes : the cough will then loosen and reUef

be obtained. Half a tea -.poonful of oxymel of

squills in a little water, or paregoric in small

doses will also give rehef. A hot lemon drink

might also be tried. If, on the other hand, the

soiu-ce of irritation is in the throat, the use

every three hours of astringent gargles, such as

alum of a strength of half an ounce to the pint,

followed by a dose of glycerine and lemon juice,

may give rehef. Unless the cough shows signs

of ceasing within a few days, medical advice is

requisite.

Cramp is a painful spasm of the voluntary

muscles most commonly occurring in the calves.

The condition may result from cold, as in

bathing, or be due to irritation of the stomach

or intestines, as in severe diarrhoea or arsenical

poisoning. Cramp in the hand is generally due

to strain of certain muscles overworked in the

course of the daily work, as in writer's cramp

and other forms of trade cramp. For simple

cramp in the calves the best treatment is to

push forward the heel and draw back the toes,

or brisk friction with the hands or with com-

pound camphor liniment also. Other forms

of cramp require medical aid. So-called

" Swimmer's Cramp " is a spasm of the arteries

by which the circulation is seriously obstructed

Ind heart failure induced. The treatment is

rarmth and stimulants. Colic corresponds to

569

cramp, but attacks the involuntary muscles

instead of the voluntary.

Diarrhoea has many causes. These belong to

one or other of the following groups : (1) irrita-

tion of the bowel by its contents being abnormal ;

(2) irritation of the nervous system ; (3) irrita-

tion of the skin by a chill. Group (1) includes

the causes of most importance to us : they are

errors in diet, intestinal worms, hard faecal

lumps due to previous constipation, and certain

poisons. Group (2) includes fright or other pain-

ful emotion. Group (3) explains itself. In

addition to these, diarrhoea may result from

disease of the bowel, e.g. cancer or tuberculosis

in it, or from some general disease, like typhoid

fever or blood-poisoning.

The first thing to do in the treatment of diarrhcea

is to take the temperature, and if this is either

above or below normal, whatever the age of the

sufferer, a doctor is required at once. Or if blood

be present in the motions a doctor is required

also. In cases of diarrhoea with a normal

temperature, treatment for a few hours can be

safely attempted. First consider the cause. Is

there (I) an irritant to cause it, such as those

given above ; or (2) has there been a fright ;

or (3) a chill very recently ? If the answer is

(1), the removal of the irritant is to be attempted ;

nature is already doing so by diarrhcea; we

must aid nature by a suitable purge. This

must not be of an irritjating character, as there

is some irritation already. The safest is castor

oil. If vomiting is present, the best is grey

powder for a claild, or half -grain doses of calomel

given hourly for four to six hours for an adult.

If there is much griping, in the case of adults

it will be safe to add to the castor oil ten minims

of laudanum. The apphcation of fomentations

to the abdomen will also be grateful. An

enema of half a pint of warm oHve oil may

be tried. Collis Brown's Chlorodyne is also very

good for simple diarrhoea.

In later life the diet should be spare, e.g. soda-

water, toast, arrowroot and jelly. It is wise to

put the patient to bed. If diarrhoea is thought

due to cause (2), if the patient be put to bed he

will soon be well. If, on the other hand, cause

(3) is regarded as responsible, the sufferer should

go to bed with hot bottles, hot fomentations

or bran poultices or turpentine stupes to the

abdomen. He should have a spare diet and

some brandy. If in the course of a few hours

improvement in these cases is not occurring, a

doctor is required. If he is not obtainable,

two to four bismuth lozenges should be given

every three hours, and also a starch enema if

necessary.

Ear-ache may bo due to a wisdom tooth, or

to inflammation of the middle or outer ear.

If examination of the teeth shows nothing

wrong, a little warm glycerine may be dropped

in, or one part carbolic to thirty of glycerine.

An eighth part of laudanum could be used with

570

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

warm glycerine. If relief is not soon obtained,

or if though the pain ceases ear discliarge

begins, medical aid is necessary. Chronic dis-

charge from the ears always requires medical

attention. If from one ear only, it may be

duo to a foreign body in the ear that has been

neglected. Ringing in the ears may bo due to

some medicine wliich is acting on the auditory

nerve, e.g. quinine and salicylates. If no medi-

cine is being taken a doctor should be con-

sulted.

Gum-boll. - An abscess between the gum and

tlie jaw due to a decayed tooth. A hot weak

solution of permanganate of potash can be used.

The boil should bo encouraged to burst internally

by holding hot water in the mouth, and should

be lanced as soon as matter has formed.

Hay Fever is an affection of the nose, due to

the irritation of the pollen of grasses. It attacks

certain people only and runs in famihes. The

sjTnptoms resemble a common cold, and asthma

may be present as a complication. The treat-

ment should be the avoidance of the hay -fields

when the grass is ripe, and the use of tonics

and soothing applications to the nose, such as

Friar's balsam, a drachm to the pint of boiling

water ; inliale the steam : or creosote, ten drops

tp the pint of boiling water ; inhale the steam.

Menthol snuff often gives relief, and the nose

might be rubbed with a menthol cone.

Headache may be due to one of various

causes, some simple, others serious. Tablets

containing phenacetin four grains and caffeine

one grain give relief quickly. Eau de Cologne

dabbed on the forehead, rubbing with a menthol

cone, or a mustard leaf applied to the back of

the neck and kept on until the skin is red, are

all good. The patient should rest in a quiet,

dimly-lighted room, and a cup of tea may be

sipped slowly. If headaches are frequent a

doctor should be consulted, as the trouble is

often due to eye-strain, and spectacles may be

needed.

Heart-burn is a symptom due to acidity in the

stomach and not to anything wrong with the

hesui. itself. The treatment is a tea-spoonful of

bicarbonate of soda in half a tumbler of water.

This usually gives immediate relief for the

time. The diet, however, requires regulating,

new bread, farin£iceous and sweet food being

the commonest causes of this disorder.

Hiccough is caused by spasm of the diaphragm,

due generally to irritation of the stomach.

Sipping cold water and also holding the breath

18 long as possible may relieve it. If these

methods fail, a tea-spoonful of bicarbonate of

soda in a half-tumbler of water should be taken.

Obstinate hiccough in the course of a serious

illness requires medical care.

HoarseDess. - This may arise cither from over-

use of the voice or from exposure to cold. A

cold-water compress on the throat at night

sometimes gives relief. Eucalj-ptus, menthol.

and camphor pastilles are good, or the following

simple remedy may be tried : beat up the

white of an egg, add the juice of a lemon and

about a teacupful of water, and sip slowly.

Indigestion or Dyspepsia is readily induced by

unsuitable food, irregular or hiuried meals, im-

perfect mastication or mental worry, over-eating

or over-drinking. Tlio symptoms vary in different

eases, and include loss of appetite, nausea,

vomiting, a feeling of weight sifter eating, and

pain. Pain is felt in front in the lower part

of the chest, or at the back in the left shoulder

blade, and it is usually increased by food.

There is often flatulence, and the food " repeats,"

causing a bitter taste in the mouth, sore throat,

and cough. Tlie mental effects of chronic dys-

pepsia are even worse : the mind is gloomy

and apt to concentrate attention on the bodily

symptoms, thus aggravating the condition. The

treatment should be mainly preventive. Let the

food be simply cooked and well served, varied

and palatable ; let the meals be eaten slowly

and, if possible, amid pleasant companions.

After the chief meal of the day rest amid

pleasant surroundings is highly beneficial ;

breakfast should be a substantial meal, and eaten

slowly, even though it may be necessary to rise

somewhat earlier ; luncheon for most busy people

should be light. Between meals it is un\\iso

to eat or drink, as the stomach requires rest

like every other organ. The teeth must be seen

to, regular exercise in the open air taken, worry

avoided, the bowels kept regular. Tincture of

gentian taken in doses from ^ to 1 tea-spoonful

in about a table-spoonful of water before meals

is a simple but excellent tonic. The sinking

feeling that some people get at about eleven in

the morning can be remedied by taking a cup

of bovril and a biscuit or piece of toast.

No fixed rules can be laid down in regard to

the kind of food to be eaten. " One man's

meat is another man's poison " ; experience is

the best guide. The articles most commonly

found indigestible are pastry, pork, new potatoes,

new bread, sauces made of melted butter, very

hot or very cold dishes or drinks, and malted

liquors. An occasional attack of indigestion

requires a purge, a spare diet for a few days,

and comparative rest. If the attacks of indiges-

tion are frequent, or if there is abdominal pain,

a doctor should be consulted.

Influenza is an infectious fever due to a germ

- the bacillus influenzce. Infection is conveyed

in the air, and also by direct contact between

the sick and the healthy. The incubation

period is two or three days. Tlio sym-ptoms

begin suddenly with a rise of temperature to

103№ or more, prostration, and pain in the back

and head. After the onset the sjmiptoms differ

in different epidemics. In some the chief

symptoms are bronchitis, with running at the

ej'es and nose, in others vomiting and diarrhoea,

and in yet others severe headache, sleeplessness

HOME NURSING AND "' FIRST AID"

571

and delirium, and sometimes sore tliroat. The

diiration of the attack is short unless complica-

tions occur, of which pneumonia is the most

serious. Owing to the severe prostration, con-

valescence takes longer than in most fevers,

and other diseases are apt to begin at this time,

especially consumption. As to the treatment

required : the patient should be isolated and

put to bed. The diet, which should be nourish-

ing and easily digestible, is best given every

two hours by day and every four hours by

night. Hot milk and bovril are good. If

vomiting is severe, peptonised food may be

necessary. Until the temperatiu-e is normal

the patient should be confined to bed. This

point is of more importance than is popularly

thought, many of the serious after-effects of

influenza being due to neglect of this simple

precaution.

In the early stages i to 1 teasp. of ammoniated

tincture of quinine may be taken in a little

water, or ten drops of Karswood creosote on a

handkercliief and inhaled may prevent or help

to cure influenza. A good seaside holiday before

work is resumed is strongly recommended.

Lice lay eggs or nits, that are attached to the

hairs by a ring of cement, which makes them

very difficult to remove. The affection is by

no means confined to the children of the poor.

The best treatment, short of removal of the

hair, is the application of some lotion, which

dissolves the cement, followed by the thorough

use of a fine-toothed comb. In many hospitals

a lotion of vinegar and methylated spirits in

equal parts is used. The hair is thoroughly

soaked in this lotion, and then rags steeped in

it are placed on the hair, and the whole is

enclosed in a mackintosh bathing-cap for the

night. Carbolic lotion (of a strength of 1 in 20)

is also used in the same way, but though effi-

cacious, it has the drawback that the absorption

of some of the carbolic causes the urine to be

green next morning. This, however, is not

serious, for once or twice, in a child otherwise

healthy. Care should be taken to keep the

lotion out of the eyes. " Izal," which is non-

poisonous, is a good substitute for carbolic. If

the odour can h6 tolerated, thoroughly soaking

the hair in petroleum will destroy the lice and

loosen the nits. Sores in the scalp should be

treated with white precipitate ointment. In

bad cases with numerous crusts, after cutting

off the hair, a linseed poultice smeared with

olive oil should be applied. This will remove

the crusts, and white precipitate ointment may

then be applied. Lice on clothing can be de-

stroyed with sulphur fumes.

Lumbago is an affection characterised by

severe pain in the muscles of the loins. Tlie

pain is of sudden onset, and sufficiently severe

' as a rule to confine the sufferer to bed. It is

I recognised by an increase of pain on stooping.

I The cause is usually chill. It is uncertain

whether it is of rheumatic origin or not. Labour-

ing men suffer most from it. A hot soda bath

is beneficial. An appUcation of Chillie paste

gives relief, also an ointment of wintergreen oil

and menthol. This latter is applied to the

affected part and covered with oil silk. A

broad flannel bandage can be worn.

Neuralgia, Uterally pain in a nerve. The

nerves most commonly attacked are those of

the face, the ribs, the loins, and the back of

the thigh. The pain is of a most intense char-

acter ; it comes and goes, often without ap-

parent cause, affecting only one side at a time,

and is not acconapanied by any rise of tem-

perature.

In facial neuralgia, the ear, the eyesight, the

teeth, and, especially the wisdom tooth, require

careful examination, though many cases have

occurred in which tooth after tooth has been

removed by a dentist without reUef having been

obtained. It is therefore wise to consult a

doctor before submitting to the removal of

sound teeth. Exposure to cold and damp often

determine an attack. Neuralgia is also conmion

in the course of certain diseases.

The treatment should be the improvement of

the general health. Regular habits and a course

of tonics, e.g. iron, arsenic, quinine and hypo-

phosphites, all do good in certain cases. A

country hoUday is still better ; the seaside,

however, is not recommended. Tablets - Phena-

cetin 4 grains and caffeine 1 grain, followed

with a cup of hot bovril, will often give rehef.

A full, nourishing diet is needed. Oil of winter -

green and menthol ointment will also relieve

the pain.

Palpitation of the heart is present when the

beating of the heart makes itself felt. The chief

causes are sudden emotion and indigestion,

especially acidity with flatulence. Tlie symp-

toms are either attaclvs of frequent and irreguleu-

action of the heart with a feeling of fluttering

in the chest, or a more forcible action in which

the whole chest may feel shaken. These symp-

toms are accompanied by giddiness, anxietjv

pain in the chest, and other sj'mptoms. They

are apt to come on at night and awake the

sufferer from his first sleep. The treat^nent

during an attack should be a dose of bicarbonate

of soda, one to two salt-spoonfuls taken in some

hot peppermint water, or a tea -spoonful of sal

volatile in half a tumbler of water. Between

the attacks the causes of indigestion should be

avoided, especially heavy and late suppers, tea,

tobacco, rich and sweet food, constipation, &c.

There is no ground for fearing the lieart is

diseased ; it is the stomach that is out of order.

Piles or Hsemorrhoids are varicose veins at the

lower end of the lower bowel. They form small

tumours projecting into the bowel, and may

gradually pass through the anus and appesir on

the exterior. The more important causes of

these are constipation, congestion of the livefj.

572

THE WOI^IAN'S BOOK

and the abuse of aperient medicines, especially

such as contain aloes. If piles aie extruded,

tliey must be washed and replaced by steady

pressure apphed with the aid of a clean rag

smeau-ed with vasehne on one side. When in-

flammation occurs, it is better to rest in bed

and have a hght diet. A dose of hquorico

powder from ^ to 1 tea -spoonful, or 1 tea-spoonful

of confection of sulphur, should be taken.

Hazelino applied on a soft piece of rag should

give rehef, or an ointment of hazeUne, menthol,

and cocaine. Resinal ointment is also very

good.

The bowels should be encouraged to act leist

tiling at night, as then the irritation caused by

the action will pass off during the night.

Sciatica. - This is neuralgia of the sciatic nerve,

and the same treatment as that indicated for

neuralgia may be adopted. Ointment of winter -

green oil and menthol is an excellent remedy,

also Chilhe paste. Sleissage is also good, and

hot fomentations may be apphed to allay the

pain.

Shivering is due to irritation of the nervous

system by many different causes, some of which

are trivial, others serious.

The duration of shivering varies fcom a few

seionds to a couple of hours, and is often suc-

ceeded by sweating and flushing. The tempera-

ture of the body as a whole is usually rising

during a shivering attack, although the patient

feels cold, and it is falling during the flushed

sweating stage, although the patient then feels

hot. In children the more serious causes, which

produce shivering in the adult, often cause con-

VTilsions. The treatment during the shivering

should be hot blankets, hot bottles, hot drinks,

and during the subsequent hot stage, if the

sweating is excessive, the patient may bo rubbed

down with a soft towel. A rigor or shivering

attack is generally the onset of an illness more

or less serious, and the doctor should be sent

for.

Sleeplessness may arise from many causes

that may be summarised thus : - (1) JPain and

other sources of irritation ; (2) poisons in the

blood which irritate the brain ; (3) mental

disturbance by worry, excitement, or strange

surroundings. The treatment is largely a

matter of the detection and removal of the

cause, though certain aids to sleep may often

be adopted with benefit. Tliere are two chief

varieties of sleeplessness, (a) difficulty in going

to sleep at the beginning of the night's rest,

(?) a habit of waking in the small hours, with

difficulty in dropping off to sleep again.

Sufferers from variety (a) should pay atten-

tion to the following points : The hour of re-

tiring should be the same each night. The

mind and body should both he healthily tired,

without being over -fatigued. Hence those en-

gaged in sedentary occupations often sleep

better for a short evening walk each night.

Study pursued till bedtime or an exciting novel

may cause a sleepless night. Heavy suppers or

strong coffee late at night promote insomnia.

Fruit late at night is also said to be a cause.

Soothing apphcations to the skin are often of

great service, e.g. friction with a flesh-brush

or a warm bath. Warmth to the feet may be

required in the form of extra covering or a hot

bottle. The position of the head should be

high in full-blooded people, in heart disease or

asthma, and low in cliildhood and anaemia.

Monotonous mental impressions promote sleep ;

thus tliinking of a famihar rhyme over and

over again, counting, reading a dull book, or,

still better, having it read to one in a mono-

tonous voice, picturing a flock of sheep coming

through a gap in a wall one by one, are famihar

examples that have their use.

The use of alcohol as a nightcap before

retiring to bed is a habit that cannot be recom-

mended, but a cup of hot milk or bo\Til can

be taken in bed the last tiling.

Sufferers from variety of insomnia (6) who

wake in the small hours should take a little

food, preferably warmed, e.g. milk or beef-tea.

A spirit-lamp or special burner in connection

with the gas of the bedroom should be at hand

for the purpose. Any tendency to flatulence or

constipation should receive appropriate treat-

ment. Drugs used to procure sleep are only

safe when medically proscribed.

Sore Throat, Quinsy, Tonsillitis are terms in

popular use to denote many forms of throat

affection. When the throat becomes sore it

may be a symptom of the onset of some fever,

which is most likely to be the case in childhood

Hence a child with a sore throat shoifld be

isolated in a bedroom at the top of the house.

The throat should be examined in a good light,

and if any white patches can be seen, no time

must be lost in summoning the doctor. If no

white patches are present, it will be less neces-

sary to consult a doctor at once, but the appecir-

ance of a rash next day should be looked for

on the chest, as scarlet fever has to be thought

of. Meantime a light diet and plenty of sooth-

ing drinks should be given, and a mild aperient

at night.

In adults with bad teeth sore throats are

very common. These take the form of either

tonsillitis, known as ulcerated throat, or of

quinsy, that is, an abscess in one tonsil. The

tongue becomes coated, swallowing difficult, the

temperature rises to 102№ F., the limbs and

head ache. The attack lasts about a week ;

if an abscess forms it may bvirst, but time and

suffering is saved by having it lanced. The

possibility of the attack being the onset of a

fever has to be borne in mind. The same mode

of isolation and dieting should be employed as

that given above.

A gargle of permanganate of potash and boraeic

should bo used hot - 1 tea-spoonful of boraeic

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

573

powder to 1 cupful of a fairly strong solution of

permanganate of potash. Formamint lozenges

can be sucked, or the throat may be painted with

glycerine and tannin. Eucalyptus, menthol,

and camphor pastilles are also good.

Clergyman's Sore Throat is a chronic inflam-

mation of the throat due ;to over -use of the

voice. An astringent gargle, sueh as alum, five

drachms to the pint, should be used, the voice

rested, and the general health toned up. A cold

compress will often relieve this form of sore

tlaroat.

Stiff Neck is commonly due to a chill. It

should be treated by rubbing in oil of winter -

green or camphor ointment and by wrapping

up the neck in flannel. Hot fomentations will

also give relief.

A Stye. - This is a small abscess on the eyelid.

Apply warm boracic fomentations - take a piece

of soft linen and wring it out of a solution

made of 1 cupful hot water and | tea-sp. boracic

acid. A little boracic ointment may be put on

the lid at night. When the stye is ready to be

opened, pull out an eyelash from the centre.

Take care the discharge does not get into the

eye. Swab with boracic lotion, use a piece of

clean rag and burn it afterwards.

Toothache should as far as possible be pre-

vented by taking care of the teeth. When

present it may be treated in the following way.

A mild aperient should be taken. Menthol

rubbed on outside will often relieve the pain.

When the teeth are aching and there are no

hollow ones, relief may be obtained by rubbing

tinctvire of pyrethri on the gums. All decayed

teeth should receive attention ; if they are too

bad to be stopped, they should be extracted.

Bad teeth often cause various stomach troubles

and rheumatism, and predispose to phthisis.

Varicose Veins are veins which, having been

unequal to bear the pressure of the blood within

them, have become dilated and tortuous in

consequence. The condition is most common

in the legs, especially of tall people who have

much standing. The symptoms produced are

pain, numbness or stiffness in the affected part.

The nutrition of the skin often suffers, and

swelhng, eczema, or ulcer of the leg are then

likely to develop. The treatment should take

the form of some support ; either an elastic

stocking or a bandage may be worn. Crepe

bandages are excellent - they are light and

easily washed. It is important that the pres-

sure these exert should be greatest at the foot

and least at the knee ; hence the stocking

presents an advantage over the bandage. Cold

applications are also good - they act as a tonic.

Warts are outgrowths from the skin, due to a

cause not yet kno^vn. They occur at all ages.

They may occiir in crops or singly. The treat-

ment should be attendance to cleanliness and to

the general health. Thj warts, unless present

on the face or in large numbers, should be

destroyed by some caustic. Glacial acetic acid

painted on every night till the wart is completely

destroyed is an efficient remedy. The skin

around the wart should first be protected with

vaseline, and the acid should then be applied

on the end of a wooden match. A sore is often

left, which soon heals if it is protected from the

air with a little boracic ointment spread on

linen. A saturated solution of salicylic acid in

collodion painted on every night is also a good

remedy. A strong solution of ordinary washing

soda will often soften and remove warts. What-

ever chemical is used, the treatment must be

thorough, or the wart will only be stimulated to

grow. Warts on the face should not be touched

except by medical orders.

" FIRST AID " IN ACCIDENTS AND

EMERGENCIES

Apoplexy or Stroke is caused by a blood-

vessel in the brain breaking and allowing the

blood to escape into, and to destroy, the siu'-

rounding brain substance. It is most common

in middle-aged men who are gouty or intemper-

ate, and in people who suficr from rheumatism

and kidney disorders.

The symptoms are a sudden loss of conscious-

ness from wliich the patient cannot be roused ;

the breathing is noisy ; the limbs may be con-

vulsed down one side and are usually hmp on

one side and stiff on the other.

The treatment during the attack consists in

loosening the clothing round the neck and placing

a pillow under the head. Hot bottles may be

applied to the feet, but they must be well pro-

tected, as burns easily result. By turning the

patient on his side the noisy breathing is often

improved. A pillow placed along the back will

keep him in position. Apply cold water to the

head, and ensure a plentiful supply of fresh air.

No stimulant must be given.

Bruises. - Moisten or bathe the part with

Pond's Extract or arnica lotion.

Shutting Door or Drawer on a Finger. - This

often causes very severe pain. The first treat-

ment should be cold and pressure. Wrap a

cold-water bandage round the finger and keep it

raised, then later on place the finger in water

as hot as can be borne. In severe cases the

doctor should be sent for.

Bites. - (1) Insect Bites should be treated by

the application of dilute ammonia ; feiiling this,

a strong solution of washing-soda or the blue-

bag should be used.

(2) Dog-bites require cauterising, and a doctor

should be seen at the earliest opportunity.

They can afterwards bo dressed with boracic

ointment.

(3) Snake-bites. - A ligature should be firmly

tied around the limb between the bite and the

heart, and close to the former. Tlie wound may

be sucked, though with some risk, especially if

574

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

the lips Bxe creicked ; the saliva must be spat

out at once, and the mouth should then be well

rinsed.

The -wound should then be bathed with dilute

ammonia or a fairly strong solution of perman-

ganate of potash, and a clean handkercliief

wrung out of the solution placed over it.

Give stimulant froelj- - brandy, whisky, or sal

volatile. Tlie sooner a doctor can be prociired

the better, as the wound requires caxiterising.

In England the viper is the only poisonous

snake, £md its bite rarely kills. The faintness

it often causes is frequently due not to poison,

but to fright.

Black Eye is due to rupture of the small blood-

vessels of the eyeUds and to the escape of blood

into the surrounding tissues. The escaped blood

undergoes chemical changes which alter its

colour, and in time it is absorbed. The process

may be hastened by appljang hot fomentations.

For the first few hours cold should be appUed

to check the escape of more blood.

Burns and Scalds. - Only when very slight

should these be treated without a doctor. The

depth to which a bum penetrates is of less im-

portance than the area it involves. (1) Treat-

ment when severe. Wrap the child in a blanket

ahd put it to bed at once without removal of

the burnt clothes. Apply hot bottles, wrapped

in flannel, to the feet, and place one on each side

of the child. Give it brandy and hot water, the

right dose of which is a tea-spoonful of brandy

if under two years of age and half a tea-spoonful

more for each year that the child is over two, until

a dose of three tea-spoonfuls has been reached.

The brandy should be given in two table-spoon-

fuls of hot water or hot milk. Any part of the

burnt surface which is exposed to the air should

be at once protected by clean rag or unstarched

musUn, soaked in olive or carron oil, and, failing

this, put it on dry or wrung out of boracic lotion

made by dissolving about one table-spoonful

boracic crystals or powder in one pint boiUng

water. Nothing further should be attempted

till the doctor comes. Plenty of hot water should

be ready, aa it may bo decided to place the child

in a hot bath in order to combat shock and soak

off the burnt clothing. (2) Treatment when

slight. Cover the part with a piece of clean rag

or boracic lint soaked in carbolic, carron, or salad

oil, and cover again with a bandage.

Next day boracic ointment spread on clean

linen should bo appUed. BUsters should never

bo pricked without a doctor's permission, and

when it is done the scissors or needle must bo

boiled before use.

Treatment of Scalds of the Mouth and

Throat. - This accident results from children

drinking from the kettle. The doctor should be

sent for, and no attempt should be made to treat

the burnt mouth until ho comes, but the child

should bo wrapped in a shawl and nvu"sed by

the fire. Have ready plenty of boiling water.

as a steam-kettle may be needed. A little olive

oil may be given.

Choking. - In the milder forms of choking the

best treatment, if any is required, is a smart

slap between the shoulders. Fish-bones some-

times become fixed in the throat. They are

best dislodged by copious draughts of water or

by eating some bread and butter.

In the more serious cases of choking when a

piece of food presses against the wall of the wind-

pipe and causes siiifocation, medical aid must at

once be summoned, while some one near should

pass the forefinger to the back of the throat and

try to dislodge the obstacle. The finger must be

passed to the side of the throat, as on no account

must the piece of food be forced downwards. A

small child can be held by his feet - head down-

wards and shaken and slapped on the back.

This will sometimes dislodge the obstacle.

Concussion of the Brain. - This is generally the

result of a blow or a fall on the heeA. Wlien

shght the effects will be very transitory - a

feeling of dizziness or a loss of consciousness for

a moment or two. In more severe cases tlie

patient will lie in a completely unconscious state,

similar to a faint. Any tight clothing should b<3

removed or loosened ; the feet should be slightly

raised and cool apphcations should be made to

the head. Perfect rest and quiet must be

assured, and the doctor ought to be summoned.

No stimulants must be given, but some warm

tea as soon as the patient can swallow will do

good. Sometimes a person will recover con-

sciousness quickly, and will walk away appar-

ently quite well, but soon afterwards will become

increasingly drowsy. This is a most serious

symptom and points to cerebral haemorrhage.

The doctor must be sent for at once.

Dislocation is the displacement of one of the

bones that forms a joint. Pain, deformity and

impaired movement result and continue as a

rule until the dislocation is reduced. The joints

most liable to dislocation are the jaw, finger and

shoulder. The jaw is often dislocated in yawn-

ing too widely, when the sufferer finds he cannot

close his mouth. Dislocation generally occurs

on one side only. The treatment, after protect-

ing the operator's thumbs by wrapping them up

well in handkerchiefs, is to press on the back

teeth of each side firmly with the thumbs whilst

the fingers are placed outside the mouth, and

below the jaw, and the chin pressed well upwards

by them. The finger, when dislocated, may bo

treated by a steady pull so made as to tend to

straighten the finger.

N.B. - Dislocation of the thimab, shoulder and

other joints should not be treated beyond placing

the affected limb in as comfortable a position

as possible until the doctor comes. If the pain

is severe, warm fomentations may be applied.

Drowning may cause death after two minutes'

submersion, but life is often saved by perse-

vering treatment of the right kind. The Royal

HOME NURSING AND '" FIRST AID"

575

Humane Society have issued most valuable in-

structions which may be summed up by saying,

first, clear the air passages ; secondly, perform

artificial respiration ; thirdly, restore the warmth

of the body wliilst medical aid, blankets and

dry clothes are sent for.

The air passages are best cleared by placing

the patient on his face with a pad under the chest

and applying pressure to the back over the lower

ribs for three or four seconds. Then turn him

on Ms side and apply pressure again to the ribs,

and repeat these methods alternately until

the water and froth no longer issue from the

mouth.

The patient should then be turned on his back,

a rolled-up coat placed under his shoulders, and

the tongue drawn well forward. The braces

or stays are then loosened and artificial respira-

tion begun. The method usually adopted is

that of Sylvester -

The operator stands at the head of his patient, grasps

both arms just below the elbow and draws them up above

the head, when he pulls on them, as this often stimulates

inspiration. The arms are kept in this position while one,

two are counted. Tlie arms are next grasped just below

the elbow, and then carried down against the sides of the

chest and firmly pressed together. The chest is thus com-

pressed and the air expelled. One, two is again counted

and air then drawn into the lungs, by drawing the arms

up over the head as before.

It may be necessary to continue this method

without interruption for two hoiirs. Meanwhile,

if assistance can be obtained, the circulation

should be stimulated by briskly rubbing the legs.

As soon as natural breathing begins it may be

discontinued, and treatment then directed to

promoting warmth. Hot blankets, dry clothes,

and hot bottles are required ; hot coffee or brandy

are given as soon as the patient can swallow.

Later on injui-ies due to the patient having

struck against piles or rocks may require atten-

tion.

Epilepsy is a disorder characterised by fits in

which the sufferer is unconscious and may also

be convulsed. In minor epilepsy there is a lapse

of consciousness for a few minutes, in which un-

conscious acts may be performed, but in which

the sufferer does not usually fall. In major

epilepsy the unconsciousness is accompanied by

convulsions and by falling, hence the name,

falling-sickness.

A fit may bo divided into the onset, the rigid

stage, the convulsive stage, and the stage of

recovery. At the onset there is in many C8u=ies

a warning sensation, but in other cases the

patient is struck down unconscious without the

least warning.

The treatment during the fit is to prevent the

convulsion injuring the patient. There is no

fear at this stage of his injuring other people.

The clothing should be loosened, the head, arms

and legs pressed firmly against the ground, and

a cork, tooth-brush handle, or other gag placed

between the teeth to guard the tongue. When

the convulsions have ceased, if the patient seems

inclined to sleep let him do so. No attempt

must be made to give anything by the mouth.

Fainting is due to a deficient blood supply to

the brain, usually caused by a temporary weak-

ness of the heart's action. The sjTnptoms are

too well known to need description. The dura-

tion of the attack is usually short, but it may

last longer, and in rare cases ends in death. The

treatment for a faint should be loosening the

clothing, giving fresh air, putting the head down

very low (no pillow) and the feet up, and apply-

ing smelling salts and wet handkerchiefs or eau

de Cologne to the face. Brandy is rarely neces-

sary, but thirty drops of sal volatile in a little

water is a viseful stimulant.

The practice of bending forward the head

between the knees is one that is useful in pre-

venting fainting, but it should not be resorted

to after fainting has taken place.

If the faint is prolonged, medical advice should

at once be sent for ; meantime mustard to the

heart and warmth to the feet should be apphed.

Foreign Body in the Ear. - Should a bead or

other such body be introduced, the head should

be turned on one side with the affected ear down-

wards and a smart tap given to the head on

the opposite side. This treatment may shake it

out, but will probably fail. Syringing should bo

tried next, and if this fails nothing more must be

done till the doctor comes, as any attempt to

remove it by a hair-pin or other instrument will

almost certainly drive it in against the drum and

do much harm. When a seed hke a pea has been

introduced, syringing must not be attempted

because it makes the pea swell and great pain is

thus caused. When an insect has entered the

ear it cannot of course go further in than the

membrane of the drum, but by kicking against

this great pain is caused. As insects breathe air

they are readily drowned, and the ear therefore

should be filled with warm glycerine and lauda-

num, and wool placed in the outlet. An hour

later syringing should be practised to wash the

dead insect out, and if this fails a doctor is

required.

Foreign Body in the Eye. - This is best dealt

with by closing both eyes and rubbing the

normal one ; a flow of tears is thus induced, which

often dislodges the foreign body. If this fails,

the lower lid should be drawn down, and if the

body can be seen, it should bo dislodged with the

tip of a clean handkerchief or clean camel's-hair

brush. Eversion of the upper lid, that is, turning

it up to expose the inner surface, requires practice

and is best not attempted. Splinters of iron,

grit, &c., embedded in the cornea, should not

bo touched till a doctor is obtained, but a drop

of castor oil should bo applied to the inside of

the lower eyelid, and the eye should be bandaged

up to prevent the sufferer doing damage by

rubbing it. Lime in the eyo is best treated by

576

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

dropping in castor oil or weak vinegar and water.

Water alone is bad treatment.

Foreign Body in the Nose.- Blow the nose with

the nostril on the unaffected side firmly closed.

If this fails, sneezing may be induced by tho

application of snuff to the nostril of the un-

affected side. Or, warm water containing a

tea-spoonful of salt to the pint may be injected

from a s>Tinge into tho nostril of the unaffected

side, whilst tho mouth is held open. If this

simple treatment is not successful, the child

should at once be taken to a doctor, as serious

miscliief might arise if not properly attended to.

An instrument must on no account be used.

Fractures may be simple or compound. In

the former the bone only is broken ; in the latter

case the skin is broken as well, so that gerrns

can reach tho broken bone. The first aim in

a simple fracture must be to prevent further

damage from being done by keeping tho part

that is broken in as natural a position as possible

until the doctor comes. If the patient must be

moved an effort should be made to get tho broken

bone into position and then to secure it either

with bandages or with both splints and bandages.

These should be put on over the clothing if

possible, as then no other padding will be required.

Jf it is found necessary to remove the clothing,

this must not be pulled, but rather cut off, if it

cannot be done otherwise without causing pain.

When the fracture is compound the wound must

have the first attention (see Wounds).

A splint may be very quickly improvised in a

case of emergency - a piece of wood, a ruler,

a broom-handle, a golf club, a piece of card-

board, or even folded newspapers or brown paper

will make excellent splints ; in fact, any firm

substance wliich will keep the broken ends of

the bone together in a fixed position. When a

splint is not applied over the clothing it must

always be padded.

A bandage must never be applied over the

fracture itself, unless the skin is broken at this

spot.

Frost-Bite. - Even though tho part appears

lifelc-ss, recovery can often occur provided tho

temperature bo raised very gradually. Tlio

patient must not enter a warm room, and the

affected part should be rubbed, preferably with

snow. Wlien tho part comes to life, inflamma-

tion may bo expected, which may be treated

with fomentations or by wrapping up tho in-

flamed organ in wool. The avoidance of alcohol

or hot drinks in tlie early stage is also important.

A Frozen Person. - There must bo no sudden

application of heat. To bring tlio patient into a

warm room in a benumbed condition or to place

him in a warm bath is to cause death. Place

him in a cold room, remove the clothing, wrap

tho body in a blanket, and with gentle friction

of ice-cold water, snow or tincture of camphor,

endeavour to re-establish circulation. This

ahould bo carried on some time, and some

nourisliment and stimulant, such as cold beef-

tea, milk, ordinary tea, weak wino and water,

given if tho patient can swsJlow. Wlien life

returns put him in a cold bod in a cold room ;

as improvement shows itself heat may be

established very gradually.

Haemorrhage or Loss of Blood may be from

an artery, a vein, or a capillary. In arteries tho

blood escapes from a wound in a bright scarlet

intermittent stream ; in veins it escapes in a

dark continuous stream ; in capillaries as a

steady oozing. Owing to these facts it is widely

taught that arterial haemorrhage should bo

arrested by compression of tho wounded eirtory

at a spot nearer tho heart, whilst venous hae-

morrhage should be treated by pressure over

the vein further from the heart than the woxmd ;

but so many amateur attempts at this method

have ended in failure that it is safer to recom-

mend direct pressure on the wound by the thumb

and subsequently by a pad and bandage. A

firm pad can always be improvised by placing

a smooth pebble or cork in a clean handkerchief

and folding it up. The Umb should always be

raised and all tight clothing loosened. If pres-

sure on the wound itself fails to arrest haemor-

rhage, additional pressure may bo applied -

nearer to the heart than the wound for arterial

haemorrhage, and further from tho heart for

venous haemorrhage.

When the wound is too extensive to apply

pressure to it, and arterial haemorrhage is present,

a tourniquet improvised as follows should be

applied higher up the limb. A pad is placed

over tho main artery and secured in position by

a handkerchief folded into a scarf and fimly

tied. A stick is then inserted beneath the hand-

kerchief on the opposite side to the pad, or it

may be included in the knot of the bandage.

By t\visting the stick round and round the

bandage is steadily tightened until haemorrhajjO

is arrested, when tho stick must be prevented

from unwinding bj' a bandage at each end.

A tourniquet or tight bandage must not bo

kept on longer than is necessary ; the pressure

should be gradually slackened as tho bleeding

ceases.

Slight pressure usually suffices to stop capil-

laring haemorrhage. A pad of lint or clean linen

soaked in hazeline or Friar's balsam can be

applied, or, failing these, ice or a cold-water com-

press. Water as hot as can bo borne will often

check haemorrhage.

If there are symptoms of collapse, keep tho

patient on his back with tho head low - keep

tlie limbs raised, and apply warmth. Give

stimulants in very small quantities.

Bleeding may occur from a site to which

pressure cannot bo applied, e.g. tl^o nose, lungs,

stomach, &c. Tlio treatment for these must bci

considered separately.

Nose Bleeding. - Tho patient should sit in a

cliair with tho arms raised and tho head well

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

577

bent back. The collar should be loosened, and

cold may be applied to the back of the neck

and cold water to the nose. In severe cases a

doctor wnll be required.

Blood-Spitting. - The treatment is complete

rest in bed, talking in a whisper only, a Uttle

ice to suck, and a sponge-bag containing ice may

be placed over the chest. Coughing should be

checked as much as possible. No stimulants

should be given.

Vomiting Blood may be due to blood that has

come from the nose or the lungs and been

swallowed, but if not, it is due to bleeding from the

stomach and may be very severe. The patient

should then be kept lying still, a little ice, but

very little, should be given him to suck, and

no medicine given by the mouth, as anything

which may cause vomiting will increase the

bleeding.

Stomach; Rectum, &c. - In cases of bleeding

from the stomach, rectum, bladder, or womb,

the patient should be kept lying down until the

doctor arrives.

A Fit of Hysterics. - This is a nervous disease

caused by excitement and weakness. It some-

times resembles an attack of epilepsy, but there

is never complete loss of consciousness, and it

generally ends in the patient beginning to laugh

or cry. The case must be dealt with firmly and

gently, but there should be no show of sympathy.

A dash of cold water on the face will generally

put an end to the attack. The general health

should have attention.

Pins are often swallowed owing to the foolish

habit of holding ihem in the mouth. A bowl

of gruel should be taken, and an emetic avoided.

In the vast majority of cases no harm results.

Poisoning. - Poisons are divisible into two main

groups : (1) those in which an emetic is on no

account to be given ; (2) those in wMch an emetic

should be given as soon as possible. Group (1)

includes the corrosive poisons which, from their

caustic action, eat into the stomach wall and

may perforate it. In all other cases of poison-

ing in which the poison has been swallowed

an emetic should be given, unless the patient

is unconscious.

How to Act in a Case of Poisoning. - (1) Send

at once for a doctor. (2) Preserve any poison

bottle, medicine, food or vomit just as it is till

the doctor arrives, otherwiso the most essential

evidence will be destroyed. (3) If the nature

of the poison is known, it is possible to apply

treatment specially adapted to it. (4) If there

is no clue to the nature of the poison, follow

these directions : -

(o) Note if the lips or clothing are burnt.

If they are, the poison is a corrosive one, and an

emetic must not be given. When the poison

is known to be acetic acid, nitric acid, oxalic

acid, or sulphuric acid, half an ovmce of chalk,

whitening, or wall plaster may be given mixed

in half a pint of water. In a great emer-

gency the plaster may be scraped from the

ceiling.

(b) If the patient is unconscious, an emetic

must not be given. The patient should be

aroused either by speaking to him, shaking hino,

or flicking him with a wet towel, but not by

holding smelling salts to his nose, as these may

do harm to the air passages before the patient is

aroused by them. If he is unconscious and the

breathingis weak, artificial respiration (see p. 575)

should be resorted to at once.

or the patient is unconscious, an emetic should be

administered promptly, even though the exact

nature of the poison is unknown. The best

emetic is a table-spoonful of mustard in a tiunbler

of tepid water, though copious draughts of tepid

water or salt and water (two table-spoonfuls to

half a pint tepid water) may be used if necessary.

The action of the emetic should be aided by the

introduction of the fingers or a feather well down

into the throat.

(d) In all cases of poisoning, if the patient can

swallow, it is good treatment to give milk, or

beaten-up eggs, or strong tea or coffee, salad or

cod-liver oil. This may be done both before

and after an emetic has acted. These remedies

act as antidotes to many common poisons, and

some of them also salve the irritated lining of

the stomach.

(e) Lastly, treat the shock, which many

poisons cause, with warmth and stimulants, and

do not let the patient go to sleep until the doctor

has arrived.

Ribs Broken. - This injury may result from a

direct blow or a crush. Tlie symptoms caused

are shallow breathing, with pain on drawing a

deep breath. Rarely the broken rib punctures

the lung ; bright red frothy blood is then coughed

up. The treatment should be to tighten the

clotliing so as to give the ribs support. This

may be effected in a man by pinning up the back

of the waistcoat. The arm of the affected side

should then be placed in a sling and the patient

sent to the doctor. If he is coughing up blood,

the treatment must be different ; pressure will

then aggravate the injury. Tlie patient should

then he down till the doctor comes, or, if

necessary, be carried to him on a stretcher or

coster's barrow.

Ring, Fixed. - To remove a ring which is firmly

fixed on the finger, the latter must be made

smaller by expelling the blood it contains. Tliis

may be done first by shaking the hand above

the head as high as can be reached, and then

by bandaging the finger as tightly as possible

from the nail downwards. By repeating this

manoeuvre the ring can often be slipped off

with a screw-like motion. If not, some stout

packing tliread should be wound around the

finger from the nail downwards until the ring

is reached ; one end of the thread is then to

be passed under the ring and brought out

678

THE WOMAN'S BOOK

through it. The thread around the 6nger is

now unwound by using the end that is through

the ring ; by tliis action the ring should slip

steadily towards the naU. Or the finger may

be put into cold water and weU soaped. If

these methods fail, the file is the only resort.

Splinters.- If on the surface, they may be

removed with a needle; if embedded m the

skin, apply a hot fomentation for a few hours,

then remoVe the splinter with a needle, if a pair

of splinter forceps are not obtamable.

Sprains are the ill effects presented by tendons

and Ugaments which have undergone a stram.

There is gencraUv severe pain m the part

accompanied by swelhng. The sprained part

should be kept raised, and hot fomentations

should be appUed to reUeve the pain. A bad

sprain is often worse than a broken bone, and

a doctor should always be caUed in, or the after

effects may be serious.

Strangulation.- In all cases of strangulation

from whatever cause death is usually very rapid.

Promptitude of action is the great point. Im-

mediately a person is found hanging he should

be cut down, one hand severing the cord while

the other supports the body and prevents it

being injured by the fall. Then any rope or

handkerchief round the neck must be removed,

' and if the body is warm, steps should be taken to

restore animation. Loosen any articles of dress

and at once go on with Sylvester's method (see

p. 575). Should there be assistance at hand, cold

water may be dashed on the chest and the body

briskly dried.

Suffocation by Gas.- Remove the sufferer at

once from the deadly atmosphere into pure air

and commence artificial respiration (see p. 575).

Friction and warmth to the body should also be

appUed, and all tight clothing removed.

To rescue a person from a room filled with

poisonous gas involves some difficulty, and should

only bo done after taking a deep respiration

and covering the mouth and nose with a cloth

soaked in vinegar and water. A rush should

then be made for the window and a pane broken

and the face put to the aperture, and then

a second window broken if possible to create

a draught. /i\ tt f

Sunstroke exists in two forms: (1) Ђieat

Exhaustion; (2) Thermic Fever. Heat exhaus-

tion may result from exposure to heat of any

kind. The symptoms are collapse, pallor,

sweating, rapid feeble pulse, hurried breathing,

and subnormal temperature. Death may occur

from heart failure, though complete recovery

is the rule. Tlie treaitrwnt should be plenty of

fresh air, and if there is much depression a stimu-

lant may be given sparingly.

Thermic fever rarely occurs except from ex-

posure to the direct rays of the sun. The

symptoms are loss of consciousness, which may

become very deep. This loss of consciousness

may be the first symptom, the victim falling as

though struck down, but usually dizziness and

nausea occur for a short time previously. The

case may soon terminate in death, or recovery

may occur, the onset of which is indicated by a

return of consciousness and a fall of the tempera-

ture. Tlie treatment should be the loosening of

all tight clothing and the apphcation of cold to

the whole body. This may be applied by spong-

ing every few minutes with well water, or

better by the application of ice. A sponge-

bag full of ice should be placed against the

head. A wet pack is sometimes beneficial, or

a mustard leaf applied to the nape of the

Wounds.^-It must be remembered that the

first application to a wound will materially affect

its future progress. The amateur must there-

fore attend to the following rules :-(!) Arrest

bleeding ; (2) cleanse the wound ; (3) bring the

cut edges together when this can be done with

safety ; (4) provide for the escape of discharges ;

(5) keep the injured part at rest.

The first of these rules is discussed under

Haemorrhage (see p. 576). The cleansing men-

tioned in the second rule is necessary, because

germs are the cliief cause of wounds not

healing. ■, , ^

Wash the hands with soap and hot water

before dressing a wound, then use boiled water

cooled, or water to which a little Condy's fluid

or a few borio ci*ystal8 have been added

along with clean linen or boracic lint for

the dressings.

With respect to the third rule, the question

whether to bring the cut edges together or not

is often difficult to answer. When in doubt it

is better to leave the wound open, as in some

wounds closing up is the worst treatment pos-

sible. In clean cuts, however, the edges should

be brought together, preferably by the stitches

of the surgeon, but failing a surgeon, resort

must be made to strapping. A dry dressing

just vnde enough to cover the cut should

bo applied first, and over these strips of

strapping should be applied in pairs, each

pair making a cross, the centre of which is

over the wound. The lowest corner of the

wound should not be covered by strapping,

so as to enable any discharge that may forni to

escape. Over the strapping a pad of wool is

placed, which is secured by a bandage, and the

dressing is then complete.

When it is decided not to bring the edges of

the wound together, a dry dressing should be

applied, unless there is a large raw surface, as in

the case of many burns, when boracic or eucalyp-

tus ointment spread on Unt or clean linen is

preferable. The dry dressing should be im-

pregnated with antiseptics; boric lint or cyanide

gauze are two of the best preparations, but when

these are not obtainable, clean linen rag may be

used and the antiseptic provided by dusting the

wound with boric powder. A pad of stenhsed

HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"

579

absorbent wool should be placed over the dry

dressing, and the whole enclosed with a bandage.

Rest must then be secured for the injured part

by the tise of splints, slings, or by confinement

to bed.

The After-Treatment. - Clean cuts should be

left alone after the first dressing until the wound

has healed. Wounds, the edges of wMch have

not been brought together, should be dressed

daily ; the wound should be syringed or bathed

v/ith a mild antiseptic at blood heat, and then

bandaged up as before. The bandage and wool,

if not soiled, may be used again, but the dressing

in contact with the wound should be renewed

daily. The great point to be borne in mind in

the dressing of wounds is the necessity for

absolute cleanliness.

THE fa:viily medicine chest