EDITED BY FLORENCE B. JACK, LATE
PRINCIPAL OF THE SCHOOL OF THE
DOMESTIC ARTS, EDINBURGH, AND
RITA STRAUSS, ASSISTED BY MANY
EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS
LONDON: T. C. & E. C. JACK
16 HENRIETTA STREET, W.C. : AND EDINBURGH
1911
^otx^
. f\t
PREFACE
We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before tbe Woman's
Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have
attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and
not a few mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-
standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-
fully to new editions being called for, when any suggestions and corrections
sent us can be effected.
We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects
of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied
a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book
as a whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.
Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.
We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter
for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened
for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity
for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the
work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or
by women.
It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past
have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for
certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the
educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's
work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - caUed forth faculties
of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible
book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the
ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In
writing it we have discovered afresh that the quahties that are demanded of a
field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary
quaUfications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,
tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling
the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not
common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon
^0%^^
PREFACE
We have been asked to address a few words to our readers before the Woman's
Book goes to press. Its preparation has been no light task, and we have
attempted so much that it is with some reason we fear some omissions and
not a feAV mistakes will be discovered by our critics. But, defects notwith-
standing, we are confident that the book is valuable, and we look forward hope-
fully to new editions being caUed for, when any suggestions and corrections
sent us can be effected.
We have done our best to provide a Reference Book dealing with all subjects
of special interest to women. A glance at the Contents will show how varied
a list it is. And now that our work is finished and we look back on the book
as ia whole, thoughts about women's work in general force themselves upon us.
Our work would have been mechanically done if they did not.
We have noted the variety of the work undertaken by women. It is matter
for congratulation that so many new spheres of usefulness have been opened
for women within recent years ; but we look forward to the time when capacity
for work will be the only test of competence to undertake it. To have the
work well done - that is the end to be aimed at, whether it be done by men or
by women.
It is often urged that the limited outlook and training of women in the past
have left them insufficiently developed in mental capacity and judgment for
certain responsible spheres of work. But it seems to us that, if the test of the
educative value of work is the number of faculties it calls into play, woman's
work, even in the past - the work of the domestic woman - called forth faculties
of the highest order. It has taken months of hard work to write an intelligible
book on woman's work. A considerable part of the book is devoted to the
ordering of a household, and this portion has not been the easiest to write. In
writing it we have discovered afresh that the qualities that are demanded of a
field-marshal, and a few not unimportant quahties in addition, are the necessary
qualifications of a model wife and mother. Instinct in selecting subordinates,
tact in managing them, organising of daily work, financial ability in handling
the household budget, the taste that imparts charm to a home - these are not
common faculties. But the training of the child makes the highest demand upon
vi PREFACE
a woman. Patience, wisdom, self-sacrifice are called for at every hour of the
day. Morally as well as intellectually the domestic woman's life is rich in
opportunity.
While, however, we cannot appreciate too highly the value of the work
done by the domestic woman, it is absurd to regard that as woman's only sphere.
Many have not the opportunity of such a life : many have not the aptitude
for it. We have therefore endeavoured to take the widest possible view of
Woman's sphere. Everything she can do well, that she is entitled to have
the opportunity of domg. We hope that the information given in the volume
about the various kinds of work now open to women, and the various agencies
at work to quaUfy women for the work they can do, will be found useful ; and
we hope, too, that the manner in which we have presented the domestic informa-
tion may lead to a higher standard of attainment in woman's greatest industry
- the home.
F. B. J,
R. S.
London,
A-pril 1911.
\
\
LIST OF CONTENTS
PAOE
The House - Choice, Construction, Fittings .... 1
Mistress and Servants 41
Guide to Household Work 58
Food and the Kitchen 87
Guide to Cookery 116
The Table 236
Household Linen 257
Guide to Laundry Work . . . . . . .271
Dress - its Choice and Care 301
Etiquette and Social Guide 325
Management of Money and Legal Guide . , . . 362
Plain Sewing and Mending 387
Home Dressmaking 419
Home Millinery 432
Health and the Toilet 447
The Child 466
Holidays and Travel . 498
Home Pets 507
Poultry-Keeping 517
Recreations 524
Home Nursing and " First Aid " 548
Home Gardening 580
Household Repairs and Upholstery 604
Careers for Women 615
Literary and Secretarial Work 62b
Medicine and Nursing 633
Women in Horticulture and in Agriculture . . . 647
Domestic Science 658
Women in Business 665
Civil Service and Public Work 678
Arts and Crafts 682
Social and Philanthropic Work 691
Women in Politics 696
Miscellaneous Facts and Figures 699
vii
SOME OF THE CONTRIBUTORS
MRS. BERNARD MOLE, Principal, St. Mary's Nursery College, Hamp-
stead,
MISS FEDDEN, Principal, St. Martha's College of Housecraft, London.
MISS MAUD COOKES, Head Teacher, Dressmaking and Millinery,
National Training School of Cookery, London.
MISS ALICE LEMON, M.R.B.W.A.
MISS MARGARET E. BUCHANAN, Ph. Chem., M.P.S., President of
the Association of Women Pharmacists.
MISS K. M. COURTAULD, Principal of Colne Engaine Farm, Earl's
Colne, Essex.
MISS N. EDWARDS, President of the Ladies' Poultry Club and
Principal of Coaley Poultry Farm, Gloucestershire.
MISS BERTHA LA MOTHE, Teacher of and Lecturer on "Bee-
keeping."
viil
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
THE HOUSE
THEK. is nothing that requires more careful -nsideration than the^^^^^^^^^
qXt^^Stur-t^^^^^^^^^^^^
never a thought to position, site, aspect ventilat3 ox. samtary a^ange..ente^ ^^
purse.
First Considerations.- The first point for the
would-be householder to consider is what rent
can be afforded, or, if she wislies to Purchase
the house, what sum can be devoted to this
purpose. She should be as exact as possible m
her calculations before she makes up her mmd
whether to buy or rent a dwelhng Bates and
taxes have to be considered m both cases. The
purchase money, it must be remembered, repre-
sents money which otherwise ^vested would
have brought in a yeaily rate of interest. Ihe
loss of this yearly interest must be reckoned as
equivalent to annual out-of-pocket expenditure,
aided to which must be the cost of upkeep
and repairs, and those taxes which, m the case
of a house let on lease, are paid by the landlord,
not to speak of the many other expenses which
the ownership of house property involves.
K it is proposed to lease a house there are
several points wliich Would increase or decrease
the expenditure as the case may be. If it is
taken on a repairing lease, the tenant wiU have
to see to all repairs both inside and out. _ itos
will amount to not a little expenditure in the
course of the year, and therefore repairing leases
should be avoided where possible. In London,
however, and many other large towns most ot
the houses are let upon repau-mg leases. _ In
these ch-cumstances it is more than ever im-
portant that the house be in thorough condition
and repair before the new tenant takes pos-
session.
In some leases a stipulation is made that the
landlord will attend to aU outside repairs, whilst
a tenant wiU be held responsible for inside re-
pairs ; but the ideal arrangement is undoubtedly
that in which the landlord undertakes to do oM
repairs, even though the rent may be a httle
higher in consequence. There are many im-
portant legal points involved in the drawing up
of a lease or a deed of purchase (see Law of
Landlord and Tenant, p. 379). It is always
advisable, therefore, for the would-be house-
holder to secure the service of a good and
reUable house agent to act for her m the trans-
action. She might also find it expedient to
consult her lawyer.
A small amount expended upon agent s and
lawver's fees has often been the means of saving
large sums of money, and it is worse than folly
for the householder without any elementary
knowledge of the law in regard to landlord and
tenant, or of the intricacies of a contract of sale
to We to cope with the legal teclmicahties
invoh^d in a purchase or lease without any
advice. Even if she does possess some know-
Tedge of the law, it is better for her to have
expert advice; often flaws are found in leases
or agreements which only a trained legal mind
can detect, and it is always better to be on the
safe side in these matters. (See Agents Fees,
^'i?f ^regard to the purchase of a house, this
may often be done tlirough the medium of a
THE WOIMAN'S BOOK
good " Bxiilding Society." A Building Society
advances to its members loans for the purpose
of acquiring houses, or of ewjquiring land for
building purposes. In return for the loan, the
house or land so acquired is mortgaged to the
Society. \Mion the loan is repaid, the house
becomes tho absolute property of the member.
The fund out of wliich the Society grants the
loans is provided by the subscription of the
members themselves.
Locality. - Hax-ing calculated to the nearest
figure the sum of money she is justified in
spending, or the annual amount for rent, rates,
smd taxes wliich she can afford to allot out of
her yesu-ly income, the householder must con-
sider in what locality she is most likely to obtain
a house wliich will best meet •w-ith her require-
ments. If members of the family have to go
into the city daily, then the residence should
be one from wliich the city is of easy access.
House rents in towns are higher than in
the suburbs, but where a residence in the
suburbs is selected, train and omnibus fares
will have to be added to the yearly ex-
penditure, so that in the long run the dif-
ference may not be so great. Very often in
some parts of a town rents will be found to be
on a cheaper scale than elsewhere, but this is
mostly the case in streets which do not bear
the best of reputations ; the character of the
locality should therefore be well inquired into
before deciding to profit by a seeming bargain
in the rental of a town house.
Where there is a family of cliildren, it is better
as a rule to choose a house in some accessible
suburb rather than in a town itself. In the
suburbs good roomy houses with gardens can be
had at quit" moderate rentals. Houses with
gsu'dens are rare in town, except at very high
rentals, whilst in many towns even a high rental
cannot secure the most minute amount of
garden space.
A suburb where there is a good train service
should be selected, and the house should be as
near as possible to the station. This last is of
the utmost importance. Some people, whilst
being careful to select an easily accessible spot
within twenty minutes' train joiuney of town,
choose a residence of about half-an-hour's walk
from the station. If they had chosen a home
nefir tho station in one of the more remote
suburbs, they would have been better off. The
time spent in going backwards and forwards
would have been the same, and the drawback
of the long walk to and from the house in
inclement weather would have been avoided.
Many of the smaller towns, it is true, combine
the advantages of town and suburban hfe in that
good dwelling-houses may be had with gardens
at fairly moderate rentals. These towns, how-
evfir, are not great centres of activity, and the
foregoing remarks must only apply, of coxirse,
to those cases where paterfamilias has to earn
liis Uvelihood in one of our large towns or
cities.
In many cases, it will be argued on behalf
of the cliildren, that educational faciUties in
towm are so much greater and cheaper than in
the suburbs or in the country. Nowadays, how-
ever, good educational establishments are to be
found everj'\\-horo, and in regard to specialised
subjects such as those included in cormnercial
training, many of the large town estabUshments
have opened branches in most parts of the
country. Then, again, if the suburb has been
selected with due regard to railway facihties,
cheap fares, &c., there is nothing easier than
to let the young people go into town for their
special lessons if necessary. In the selection
of a house, educational facihties for the cliildren
should never be overlooked, and for this reason
it is always better to inquire whether there are
good schools in the neighbourhood.
The same argument must prevail if the house
is selected in some country place. In many
c£ises, apart from all question of low rental, &c.,
the love of paterfamiUas for the country is so
great, that not aU the tedium and discomfort
of the long train journey twice daily will deter
liim from pitching his tent " far from the
madding crowd." If he is prepared to endure
the discomfort, well and good, but the welfare
of the cliildren from the point of view of educa-
tion must be considered, and for this reason
he should take care to be near some good
educational centre, unless the plan of sending
the children to a boarding-school is adopted.
If one decides to pitch one's tent in tho
co'ontry, care should be taken to find out if
there are one or two good reliable medical men
within easy distance. In case of illness, the
fact of having to send two or more miles for
medical aid may at times amount to actual
calamity. Such risks should therefore be
avoided. It is ad\nsable also that the house
should not be too far away from a village where
food and other commodities can be purchased.
The chief drawback to residence in the country
hes in the fact that up-to-date arrangements
in regard to sanitation, water supply, and light-
ing are not always to be found, and although
many charms are to be found in hfe in a country
cottage, there are also in many cases disadvan-
tages which will more than counterbalar .-o these
charms if great care and discrimination are
not exercised in the choice of both locality and
dwelling.
House versus Flat. - The comparative merits
of houses and flats as places of residence will ever
be a debatable subject. There is no doubt,
however, that as regards town life, for people
of moderate means, flats represent the minimum
amount of annual outlay. It is much easier
for a woman to regulate her expenditure when
she knows that the sums she pays yearly for
her flat will cover not only rent, but also rates
THE HOUSE
and taxes. As the latter usually amount to a
third of the rental, this is a most important con-
sideration. Then there is an old saying that
" a large house is a big tliief," and many a
weary householder, harassed at the thought
of high wages claimed by servants, large sums
spent in cleaning and keeping the house in
repair, has proved the truth of this old adage.
With a flat expenditure is kept within easy
bounds ; none of the thousand and one odd
expenses are Uable to crop up in veirious unex-
pected quarters as in the case of a house, and all
the rooms being on one floor, one's housework
is reduced to a minimum, and the amoiint spent
on servants' wages is correspondingly decreased.
There is also the additional advantage of
security, for one feels quite safe when leaving
for the annual holiday in locking up the flat
and placing the key in the care of the doorkeeper.
It can also be locked up during the daytime,
when one wishes to go out, without the necessity
of leaving any one in charge.
On the other hand, a flat nas many disad-
vantages as compared with a complete dwelling-
house. The rooms are small, in many cases
dark, the larder and cellar accommodation poor
- dress cupboards are generally conspicuous by
their absence, and in even the best and most
expensive of flats the servant's room, where
there is one, is little better than a cupboard in
size. Then, again, flats at the lower rentals are
always on the top or second top stories of a
building or else in the basement. In the case
cf the luxurious buildings which are let out in
flats at high rentals a lift will be provided, but
this is seldom the case in regard to the buildings
at which flats are let out at moderate rents. In
the absence of a lift there will be the weary
cUmb up high flights of stone steps before one
can reach one's dwelling, a disadvantage which
does much to counterbalance the advantage of
the rooms being On one floor. But even with
this disadvantage, top floor flats are preferable
to flats in the basement in regard to light and
ventilation.
In a flat it is impossible to maintain the same
degree of privacy as in a house. One's slumbers
are apt to be disturbed in the small hours of
the morning by the efforts of some conscientious
youngster laboriously practising five finger
exercises in the flat below, or else a " musical
evening " in the flat opposite continued far
into the night, though very enjoyable to those
whom it may concern, succeeds in robbing you
of those precious hours of " beauty sleep " wliich
you prize so highly. In case of contagious illness
olso the danger of infection is greater, as isola-
tion is more difficult.
On the whole, there are many things to be
said for and against flat life ; but it may be
taken as a general rule that for the young couple
beginning housekeeping on strictly limited
means, a flat is always best from the point of
view of keeping down expenditure ; whilst in
the case of a family of young children, flat life
is incompatible with comfort owing to the
hmited space available, and the very fact of all
the rooms being on one floor is in these cir-
cimistances a positive disadvantage.
Site and Soil. - Absence of damp is of the
utmost importance to health, and in tliis re-
spect a great deal will depend on the soil upon
which the house is built. A gravel soil or chalk
soil above the water level is best. A clay soil,
being non-porous, retains moisture and should
be avoided.
On the other hand, the position of the site is
an important factor in determining the advantage
or disadvantage of the soil upon which it is built.
Generally speaking, a house should never stand
low : it often happens that a house standing
on high ground, although built on clay soil, is
dryer than a low-lying dwelling situated in a
valley upon gravel soil. Trees are desirable,
if not too near the house, as they aid in drjnng
the soil, certain trees such as eucalyptus, plane,
and poplar being specially useful.
what is known as " made-up ground " is
about the worst soil upon which a house can be
built. The word " made " is true in its actual
sense, for the ground consists of holes and
hollows wliich have been Uterally filled up with
all sorts of rubbish and refuse to make a founda-
tion. The danger of building on such a soil,
which will in many cases be largely composed
of organic matter from which noxious gases
emanate- and force their way upwards, is ob\'ious.
Carefiil inquiry should therefore be made in
regard to this important question of soil before
selecting a dwelling.
Construction. - ^The absence of damp will also
depend to a great extent upon the construction
of the house, proper construction tending to
minimise many of the disadvantages of an
unsuitable soil. Houses built on clay soil should
be well raised above the ground level, and should
possess neither cellars nor basements. Houses
with basements must be very carefully con-
structed with the view of preventing the damp
from rising up the floor and lower walls. The
subsoil should be drained by means of subsoil
drain-pipes, which consist of short earthenware
pipes laid in trenches several feet below the
surface (see p. 4). To prevent dampness rising
through the floor of the basement, the floor
should be built upon a bed of concrete, wliilst to
prevent moisture from rising up the lower walls,
these should not only be constructed upon a
foundation of concrete, but what is known as a
" damp course " should be provided. A " damp
coiorse " consists of an impervious layer of
cement, slate, asphalt, or bitumen, wliich is
placed in the brick-work of the wall above the
ground level, but below the floor. Houses with
basements should always be separated fi-om
the street by an area.
4
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
A great deal of the comfort and well-being
of the inhabitants of a house ^\-ill depend upon
the plan upon which it is built. Houses with
basements alwaj's entail work for servants in
going up and down stairs between the dining-
room and the kitchen. On the other hand, in
bouses where the kitchen and dining-room are
on one floor, care should be taken that the
kitchen is not situated in such close proximity
to the other rooms as to make the smell of
cooking go all over the house. The ideal plan is
to have the kitchen and pantry shut off from
the rest of the rooms on the first floor by a
one of the upper landings in addition to the bath-
room. There should in all cases be a housemaid's
pantry on one of the upper landings in which
she can keep pails and brushes.
Too much stress cannot be laid upon the
necessity of the house being thoroughly dry:
for this reason it is never vrise to take up resi-
dence too soon in a newly-built house, as the
walls are usually damp. Fires should be kept
burning in all the rooms for as long a period as
possible before going into a new house.
A httle wall-peeling and discoloration in the
case of a new house is almost unavoidable, but
nnn.
Illustration showing Concrete Foundation ol a House with Damp Course
and Drainage System.
A, House drain.
B. Concrete foundation.
C. Intercepting trap.
D, N. Gulleys.
F. Dry area.
G, H. Damp proof course.
K. AV.C.
L. Soil pipe.
O. Rainwater pipe.
P. Dath waate-water pipe.
R. Sink.
separate little passage and door, the passage
running between the kitchen and pantry, the
latter being placed at the back of the dining-
room, with a hatch, i.e. a small cupboard like
an aperture in the wall itself opening from
the pantry into the dining-room, through which
dishes may be passed to the servant waiting at
table. WTien not in use, this little cupboard
can be kept closed and will not be noticeable.
A lift from the kitchen to the dining-room whore
there is a basement is a very great help ; but
these are a.s a rule expensive to fit in and are
luxuries not within the reach of the many.
Plenty of cupboards are also desirable, including
a hot-air cupboard for the airing of linen. If
the house is a high one, water should be laid on
if, when looking over a house which has been
built for some time, the paper is seen to be
discoloured, this may be taken as a suio sign
of damp, and the house should be avoided. In
these cases a musty damp smell will almost
invariably be present ; a house of this kind
cannot possibly be healthy, and residence in
damp dwellings is a most proUfic cause of all
kinds of illness. Many a case of chronic rheu-
matism can be traced to residence in a damp
house. Care should also be taken to find out
if the roof is in good condition, as dampness in
the upper rooms may often be traced to some
defect in the roof, lliough for the purpose of
drainage of the soil it is well to have trees
near the house, they must not be too near, as
THE HOUSE
in this case they are liable to make it damp.
Ivy growing up the walls of the house, though
very pretty and decorative in appearance, is
also a cause of damp.
Aspect. - A house should also be carefully
selected in regard to its aspect. Generally
speaking, the front should face south-west or
south-east. The front bedrooms and sitting-
rooms will in this way catch the morning sun,
wliilst the back rooms will have the afternoon
sun. For this reason it is advisable to have as
many bedrooms in the front as possible. The
breakfast-room should also have a sunny aspect ;
where there is no breakfast-room, the dining-
room should be in the front of the house in
order that the cheering influence of the morning
sun may be enjoyed at breakfast, whilst the
drawing-room will do well in a position where
it receives the sunsliine in the afternoon. It is
not advisable, as a rule, to choose a house facing
due north ; the rooms will be dark through
absence of sunlight, and the house will be cold,
requiring a much greater degree of artificial
■warmth in winter to make it habitable than in
the case of a south-west or south-east aspect.
DRAINAGE
A house should not be purchased nor an
agreement for a lease entered into before the
ptirchaser or lessee is satisfied that the drainage
system is in thorough order. To make sure
of this, it is essential to take independent
expert ad\nce upon the subject and to have
the premises examined by a sanitary en-
gineer. FaiUng this, it would be advisable to
insist upon a written guarantee from the vendor
or landlord that the drains have been recently
tested and are in good condition. It is well,
however, to always have an independent opinion,
therefore the former plan is the better of the
two, and by adopting it the intending pur-
chaser or tenant procects himself from becoming
saddled with a house where insanitary con-
ditions prevail.
However well a house may be constructed
in regard to light and ventilation, if the drainage
is wrong, siclcness and disease will invariably
follow, and a Uttle trouble and expense in in-
vestigating this important matter in the first
instance will save no end of trouble and expense
in the long run.
The most usual system of drainage or disposal
of sewage prevaUiiig in towns and almost all but
remote country places is that known as the
" water-carriage system " by wliich all the
sewage is can-ied off underground in pipes called
drains. Tlie following drain-pipes are to be
found in the average house -
The sink pipe for taldng away water from the
sink; the water pipe for taking away the bath
water ; the soil pipe (discharging from the
water-closets), with its ventilating pipe carried
above the roof ; the outer drain pipe for carry-
ing off superfluous water.
These pipes all lead to the house drain which,
in its turn, is connected with the street sewer.
It is not only important that all drains
should be properly constructed, but also that
they be kept in good condition if the house
is to be health}'. To this end they should be
regularly examined and all defects put right
with the least delay possible.
Good drains should be ( 1 ) water-tight ; (2) well
ventilated ; (3) without direct connection be-
tween those carrj^ing sewage and those carry-
ing waste from baths, basins, and the Hke ; (4)
well flushed.
(1) In order to be water-tight, the drain-pipes
are best made of iron, but owing to the expense
this involves they are generally made of earthen-
ware. Long iron pipes with lead joints consti-
tute the most water-tight system invented so far.
The bed in wliich the pipes are laid must not be
Uable to sink, or the joints wiU give, even al-
though firmly cemented. For this purpose, care
must be taken not to sink the original trenches
deeper than is necessary, as any fiUing in with
fresh earth promotes consequent sagging.
(2) The ventilation must be very thorough,
or sewer gas wiU find its way into the house in
spite of the most careful traps to prevent it.
(3) The waste pipes from baths, &c., should
never open directly into the sewer, even although
the connection is guarded by a trap. They
should pour their water into an open receiver or
gully placed outside the house, and the gully
should be connected with the sewer. Then if
any sewer gas escapes from the gully, it will pass
off in the open air without being conducted into
the house. In the case of all pipes connection
with the sewer must be guarded by a trap.
Traps are devised to prevent the escape of
sewer gas from the drain into the house. Many
of the older traps had the drawback that they
allowed filth to accumulate in them. U- or
S-shaped traps are the ones now cliiefly used.
By having it of either shape, whenever the
drain is flushed some water is retained in
the bent part or trap, which then prevents the
passage of gas through this portion of the pipe.
The water used to flush the water-closet should
not come direct from the chief cistern, but from
a special small cistern, the water of which is
never used for drinking purposes. By tliis
means, if sewer gas passes into the small cistern,
it will be absorbed by the water in it with-
out passing on to the chief water-drinking
cistern.
(4) In order that a drain may be well flushed,
not only must an ample supply of water pass
down it, but the drain must be laid at such an
inchne that the flow is sufficiently rapid. It
must be fairly narrow and as straight as possible
for the same reason ; and, again, friction must
be reduced by making the internal surface
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
smooth. By these means the accumulation of
filth IS reduced to a minimum.
Testing the drains is done by plugging the
outlet of tlie suspectod drain at the nearest
manhole and tlien filling it with water from
the nearest water-closot. If a leak is present,
the water soon sinks, and if many leaks are
present, it may not be possible to fill the
drain at all. Suspected leaks may also be
tested by pouring down strong oil of pepper-
mint or assafetida in hot water, whilst a
second person in the room below determines
whetlier the odour escapes or not, but tliis
method is not so thorough as the former
test, thougli more easily performed by the
householder.
Tlie water-closet must bo of such a pattern
that it is always clean and efficiently trapped,
has no direct connection with the drinking-
water cistern, and is flushed by a special
cistern of its own which should hold from
two to tliree gallons. Tlie " wash-out " closet
and the " valve " closet are two of the best
patterns in use at present - a " hopper " closet
is conunonly used, and it is satisfactory if a
short hopper is used, but a long hopper is
to be condemned for its lack of cleanhness.
What is known as the " pan " closet is an
old form of closet which cannot bo too strongly
condemned. Tlie traps should be furnished
with anti-siphonage pipes to prevent them be-
coming unsealed. In well-built houses water-
closets are always separated from the other
portion of the house by a small passage, and
where there are two or three they are placed on
the different landings one above the other. In
properly constructed houses all places where
water is laid on, such as the bath-room, lava-
tories, hou36-maid's sinks, should come one over
the other on the various floors.
The Earth System. - In the country, where a
sufficient water-supply is not always available
for a complete water-borne system of drainage,
what is known as the " Earth " system is the
most sanitary to adopt. In this system earth
is used instead of water in the closet pails, and
the contents of the latter are buried at intervals
in the garden.
The principle of the earth system is founded on
the well-known power possessed by dry earth
of deodorising and disinfecting faecal matter -
a given quantity of earth, if applied in detail to
fresh excrement, destroying all smell and absorb-
ing all noxious vapours. Where sufficient earth
is not available, ashes should be used. Moule's
earth closets are amongst the best-known sanitary
appliances used in connection with this system.
Removal of Refuse. - All the dry refuse of a
house which does not come under the designa-
tion of " sewage," is removed by dustmen in
the employ of the local authorities at regular
intorv'-als. The most sanitary dustbins are made
of zinc. The dustbin should be kept closed to
keep out rain and damp, otherwise the contents
will quickly decompose, and noxious odours will
be the result. It should not be kept too near
the wall of the house, but sliould bo at least sis
feet away from it. Only dry refuse should be
placed in the dustbin. All vegetable matter,
such as potato peirings, &c., should be burnt if
noxious and unsanitary odours are to be avoided.
(See Kitchen Refuse, p. 94.)
WATER-SUPPLY
A pure and abundant water-supply is a
necessity in every house. Care must be taken,
therefore, to flnd out ( 1 ) if the supply is good ;
(2) if it is constant or intermittent; (3) if the
latter, whether the cisterns are adequate for the
storage of the water and Eire in good condition.
In regard to the purity of the water, this
should be ascertained by applying to the county
or borough analyst for an analysis. The usual
fee for this analysis is one guinea. As a rule the
water-supply in large towns is pure. When, as
in country districts, the water is derived from
wells, the utmost precautions should be taken.
All well water should be boiled before use,
as it is very liable to pollution. If a well is
shallow the risk of contamination is often con-
siderable. A well should be deep and have its
sides protected by some waterproof material
to prevent the surface water from entering it.
The best wells are those wliich are driven
tlirough the first impervious stratum so as to
tap the one lying below.
Filters are largely used for purifying water,
but a number of those in domestic use are not
so effective as is generally supposed. Many
stop some of the germs, which then flourish in
the substance of the filter and infect all subse-
quent water that passes through. Hence puri-
fication of the water by boiling is a much safer
method. Among the more reliable filters are
the Pasteur-Chamberland and the Berkefeld.
In the Peisteur-Chamberland filter the water
passes tlirough a thick-walled unglazed earthen-
ware tube, which stops germs. It has been
recommended to clean this by brushing the
outside with a stiff brush ; as, however, the
germs are not only outside but probably also
distributed tlirough the substance of the porce-
lain, to be thoroughly cleansed it should be
boiled or a new tube substituted. All filters
require thorough and constant cleansing if they
are to be effective. A dirty filter will do more
harm than good.
In most towns there is now what is called a
" constant water-supply.'" The constant supply
system renders cisterns for the storage of water
unnecessary, excepting in connection with the
hot-water supply. Where there is what is known
as an " intermittent supply " tlie water is
turned off for a certain time each day. In these
circumstances the intending householder should
THE HOUSE
find out if the cisterns are large enough for the
adequate storage of the water during those
hours in which the supply is cut oS, and also
if the cisterns are clean and in thoroughly good
condition. Cisterns shoxild never under any
circumstances be left uncovered, but should be
provided with a well-fitting Ud. No house
should be taken until it has been ascertained that
all cisterns have been thoroughly cleaned by
the plumber. This cleaning should be repeated
at regular intervals. Tlie cisterns should be
made of galvanised iron. An overflow pipe
should be provided for any overflow of water
that might arise ; tliis pipe should discharge
into the open air and never into a soil pipe or
drain, or pollution of the water by sewage gases
is likely to result. Cisterns from which drinking
Water is drawn shoidd be as far as possible from
water-closets and drains. The simple precaution
of letting the water run a Uttle before drawing it
in the morning for drinking purposes should
always be taken, as it should be remembered
that the water has been stationary in the pipes
all night, and the supply is therefore not so pure
as when constantly drawn from during the
day.
Hot- Water Supply. - ^A good hot-water supply
is a necessity in every household, and a great
deal of the comfort of the house depends upon
this supply being adequate to the demands made
upon it.
In most houses the water is heated by the
kitchen range, at the back of which is a boiler ;
from this hot water is conveyed to the hot-water
tank by means of circulation pipes. The supply
of hot water will depend to a great extent upon
the efiicacy of the kitchen range and the supply
system installed. The two best-known systems
in this connection are the " tank " and the
" Cylinder " system. In the first system a tank
is supphed for storage
of hot water, while
a cyhnder takes the
place of the tank in
connection with the
second system. Before
taking a house, care
should be taken to
ascertain whether the
hot-water system is
in thorough working
order.
Heating Water by
Gas. - There are other
methods, however, of
securing a hot-water
supply independent
of the kitchen-range.
There has been placed
upon the market with-
in recent years an ap-
paratus known as a " Circulator." Tlais is a
small boiler heated by gas which can easilj' be
Hot-water Circulator.
connected to the " flow " and " return " pipes
from the coal-range boiler, and will then with
a quite moderate consumption of gas supply hot
water to the circulating tank, either indepen-
dently of, or in conjunction with, the coal -range
boiler, the working of the latter, in the event
of the kitchen fire being lighted, being in
no way interfered with. These circulators are
specially adapted for use in flats, and in villas
where the length of the circulating pipes are
not abnormal.
In small houses and flats where gas is
used exclusively as fuel, many people obtain
their supply of water for the bath by installing
a geyser in the bath-room for the purpose
of heating the bath water, whilst the water
for kitchen and other purposes is boiled on
the gas stove. Geysers for the purpose can
be hired from all the gas companies. The
geyser, however, does not give a storage of hot
water throughout the house, and does not
therefore fully take the place of the range boiler
as does the circulator. It is a useful accessory
to the bath-room, however, in summer, as hot
water for the bath can be obtained by this
means independently of the kitchen range.
VENTHATION
A supply of fresh pure air is essential to
health, hence it follows that homes shotild
be well ventilated. Good air must be admitted
and bad air expelled. Ventilation is the
renewal of the air contained in a room. Thљ
necessity for such renewal increases with the
number of people occupjnng it, and the number
of lights burning in it. Both lights and people
ahke use up the oxygen of the air and dis-
charge into it a certain amount of carbon-
dioxide ; but the human breath has a more
noxious effect than the flamo of an ordinary
lamp or gas jet, for it emits a certain quantity
of highly poisonous organic matter, and it is
chiefly this which vitiates the air and gives it
the well-known " stuffy " odour.
Every one is aware that air that has been
breathed is warm, and that warm air rises.
Many people think that if a room is sufficiently
lofty the bad air will all accumulate near the
roof and the air near the floor will not be \-itiated
for many hours. This is a gi'eat mistake, for
unless some means of letting out the bad air
is provided, its warmth will soon become lost
and its moisture will condense, causing the
bad air to become heavier than the fresh air,
when it will sink and niingle with the latter
and a vitiated atmosphere will be the result.
As a matter of fact, the bad air rarely rises
liigher than twelve feet before it becomes cool
and descends.
Every room, therefore, that is to be ade-
quately ventilated requires both an inlet for
good and an outlet for bad air.
8
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
To secure the ventilation of a dwelling-room
vre reciuire no ceiling to be higher than
tvpelve feet, but the windows slaould reach
the coiling and be open at the top. A fire-
place should always be present and the chimney
register should never be closed. Tlie window
and the cliininey are the two readiest means of
ventilation.
The ventilation should be arranged so that
the fresh air is lot in with its current directed
upwards, and the bad air let out near the
ceiUng. It is an error to ventilate the room
into the passage bj' lea\nng the door open and
the window closed. " Windows were made to
be opened, doors to be shut." Bedroom
■windows, especially, should never be altogether
closed at the top. Care should be taken that
the bed is placed so that the cold air does
not beat down upon the sleeper.
The danger of draughts, however, must be
reckoned with in many cases, and for deUcate
The ninckes-Bird Method
of Ventilation.
people wide-open windows in winter are not
always advisable. In these circumstances a
very simple system of ventilation known as the
Hinckes-Bird method should be adopted. It
consists in raising the lower sash of a window a
few inches, and blocking up the opening with a
piece of boarding as long as the width of the
window and about six inches broad, thus allow-
ing the fresh air to enter the room, but only
between the two sashes, and with an upper
current.
The proper ventilation of a house will depend
to a great extent upon its warming arrange-
ments. Somo grates are constructed so that
the fire burning in them serves to warm the air
before it enters the room. A Galton's grate, fur
instance, has an air-space behind the chimney
communicating below with the outside air and
above with the interior of the room, the heat
of the chimney being in this way used to warm
the incoming air.
A very simple means of ventilating ordinary
dwelling-houses is found in what is known as
the " Sheringham Valve," which is a metal
guard placed aroimd an aperture in the wall,
so arranged as to direct the incoming air upwards
and made to work on a liinge so as to show the
opening when desired.
A Tohin'a Tube is a pipe the lower end of
which communicates through an opening in the
wall with the outside air, whilst tlie upper end
opens into the room about six feet above the
floor.
Among other simple aids to ventilation with-
out draught are the following : -
Perforaled Bricks, communicating with the
room by gratings, wliich servo to break up the
current and thus prevent the draught from
being felt.
Boyle's Valve inserted in the cliimney near
the coihng. Tliis contrivance consists of an
apertiire leading into the chimney with two
talc flaps, forming a valve, which permits the
air of the room to enter the chimney, but
prevents the smoke from entering the room.
Louvre Panes, consisting of slips of glass placed
obliquely in an oblong opening cut in the
window pane. They are commonly used in
shop windows that do not open. The Cooper
rose ventilator is on the same principle.
LIGHTING
The proper lighting of a house is essential
not only from the point of view of the
health, but also for the comfort of its inhabi-
tants. A person is more influenced by his or
her svuToundings than one would think - good
temper and cheeriness come naturally amid
cheerful surroundings, whereas dark, gloomy,
and ill-lighted premises tend to have a most
depressing effect upon even the most optimistic
of individuals.
Good natural light during the daytime may
be secured by a wise choice of aspect (see p. 5).
Stained-glass windows should be avoided in
living rooms. JIany people elect to have the
lower sashes of their dining-rooms, for instance,
of stained glass. The effect may bo imposing,
perhaps, but it is certainly not cheerful, and
grandeur is dearly bought at the expense of the
light and cheeriness of a room. Then, again,
creepers should not be allowed to grow over
the front of the house in such a way as to over-
shadow the windows, nor should the light be
shut out by the too close proximity of trees.
It must bo remembered tliat plenty of light
is essential to our health, and care should be
taken therefore to secure it.
Artlflclal Lighting. - In towns electric light and
gas form the chief artificial illuminants. Gas
is also suppUed in a large number of country
places, but where this is not to bo had, lamps
THE HOUSE
are generally used. In large country houses,
however, air gas is often made from a plant on
the premises.
Electric Light as an illuminant has many
advantages. It is cleanly, hygienic, and con-
venient; and if caxe is taken in regulating its use,
the quarterly electric hght bill may be kept well
within bounds. It is very little trouble to switch
off the hght when one leaves the room, and if this
is done not once in a way, but as a general rule,
a substantial sa-ving on the electric light bill is
the result. Low candle-power lights should be
used in the bedrooms, one or two 7 or 8 candle-
power lamps being usually sufficient for each
room.
Economy may also be exercised by means
of the electric lamps selected. Tantalum
and many of the other metallic filament
lamps, whilst giving a much brighter Ught than
the ordinary incandescent lamps with carbon
filaments, consume much less current than the
latter, and are therefore more economical.
In connection with the installation of an
electric plant for Ughting in country mansions
situated in localities where there is no pubUc
supply, the initial outlay will necessarily be
higher. Where a pubUc supply is available
the only expense will be that of wiring the
premises and purchasing the necessary fixtures.
In most oases the latter may be hired from
the electric hght company by payment of a
fixed sum every year. The cost of electric
hght varies in different towns. In London
it averages from 4d. to 5d. per unit for hght-
ing, whilst for heating purposes the cost is Id.
per unit.
Coal Gas is obtained by the distillation of
coal in large chambers or retorts. The dis-
tillation proceeds for about four hours under a
great heat, and the products are broadly coke,
gas, and coal tar. The gas is then cooled,
washed with water, and treated with slaked
lime to remove impurities.
The large cylindrical vessels so prominent in
all gas works are the gas-holders, from which the
supply issues to the consumers. These holders
rise and sink in a tank of water by their own
weight and the upward pressure of the gas in-
side. The gas is conveyed from the holder by
mains and from the mains to the consumer by
service pipes.
The use of coal gas as an illuminant is almost
universal, and many important improvements in
regard to fittings have been made within recent
years which have increased its usefulness to a
remarkable degree.
IMeters are used to meastu-e the gas consumed,
and it is important that every householder
should know how to read and check the meter.
Gas meters are usually lent on liire to the con-
sumer by the gas company. It is important
that the supply of gas to the burner should be
regulated. Tliis can always be done by means
of a regulator or " governor " on the main pipes
or governor burners.
Incandescent Gas. - This is by far the most
superior and effective method of gas hghting.
It is used in connection with special burners
which admit air to be burned with the gas, a
most brilUant effect being achieved by the
illumination of the wliito mantle which is
used in conjunction with the burner. The
biirner is usually fitted with a by -pass for lower-
ing and raising the light. By means of this
by-pass the gas may be left turned on at the
stop-cock, whilst only the faintest flicker of a
flame is left on the burner. The Veritas and
Welsbach mantles are amongst the best known
and most effective to lase with incandescent
gas.
Amongst the latest improvements in connec-
tion with gas hghting may be classed the
Pneumatic Gas Switch, by means of which
gas can be switched on in the same manner as
electric Ught. With tliis simple apparatus any
number of gas hghts can be switched on or off,
separately or together. It consists of three
parts - a switch, a valve and a coil of small tubing.
The switch turns the gas up or down from any
position or distance. The valve with by-pass
complete screws on to any ordinary gas bracket
or chandeher at the burner, winch is easily done
without tools of any kind, whilst the tube, which
is as small and flexible as a beU wire, conducts
the air pressure from the switch to the valve,
and is attached to the wall or woodwork with
small staples suppUed with the sets. By touch-
ing the switch, air pressm-e is sent through the
fine tube, and the Hght is thus turned either
on or off as desired. One of the special features
of the gas switch is the fact that no batteries
or chemicals of any kind whatever are requii-ed.
It is self-contained and requires no further
attention when fitted. Another advantage to
be found in using tlais switch lies in the fact
that incandescent mantles will be found to last
much longer owing to the fact that the gas
switches on easily ; it does away with the sUght
explosion which always takes place when a
match or taper is apphed when hghting the gas
in the usual way.
Air Gas, - In large country houses where there
is no pubhc gas-supply, air gas is largely used
for lighting purposes. Tliis is manufactured "
from a plant on the promises, and there are many
apparatus for the purpose on the market. One
of the best apparatus for manivfacturing air
gas is that sold by Messrs. W. A. S. Benson and
Co., Ltd., of 82 and 83 New Bond Street, London,
W. It is known as the " Aeos " Gas Apparatus.
Tlie hght given by " Aeos " gas, whilst being
brilliant and pure white, is exceedingly soft and
restful. The apparatus is exceedingly simple,
as the plant is whoUy automatic ; it is £ilso
absolutely safe to use, being non-explosive.
The price for a 25-light apparatus capable
10
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
of supplying 25-26 candle-power burners would
be as follows : -
Apparatus £42 0 0
Pump and Tank 5 10 0
Carriage, including return of emjities,
about 3 10 0
£51 0 0
whilst the cost of installing would be about £1
per point. Once the initial cost of installation
has been borne this gas proves one of the most
economical ilhiminants it is possible to have.
Electric Light, Gas and Oil Fittings.- A great
deal of the beauty of a room depends upon the
choice and position of suitable Ughting fittings.
In the dining-room there should always be
a centre light coming over the dinner-table in
addition to any other bracket hghts necessary.
With electric fittings it is as well to have one or
two lamps to the centre hght which are switched
on by different switches, so that either one or
more of the lamps can be lighted at will. A red
silk shade over the centre light has a most
softening and soothing effect. The metal work
is most effective when of antique copper or
brass.
In the drawing-room which is lighted by
electricity, the centre pendant is of different
design, usually consisting of a number of lights,
each with separate ornamental glass shades.
A high electric standard lamp, with a pretty silk
shade of a light colour to tone with the general
decorative scheme of the room, gives a very
pretty effect, as do small lamps to be placed on
mantelpiece, table, or piano as desired.
The hall should be provided with a hang-
ing centre lamp of lantern design, whilst,
especially in houses built in the Queen Anne
style, a plain old-time iron lantern should be
hung outside the porch.
In the billiard-room the lights over the table
should have plain green shades. In the Ubrary
or study a centre light with one or two small
metal table standard lamps with soft silk shades
should bo provided.
In the bedrooms there should always be a
light in front of the toilet table and one over
the bed, the latter to be turned on by a switch
at the side of the bed.
Pretty soft silk shades
of a light bright colour
to tone with the colour-
ing of the room should
be used ; pale pink and
pale green shades are
very effective.
Gas and Oil Lamps. -
In regard to gas, where
inverted incandescent
burners are used, fit-
tings for centre hghts and bracket hghts may be
very bimilar to those used for electric hght, and
\
Bray's Inverted Burner.
whore the " switch on " system is installed, the
illusion can be made almost complete.
Meiny of the disadvantages comiected with
the use of oil for house hghting can be minimised
by moans of suitable fittings. Pendant lamps
should be used as much as possible. In the
hall a lantern lamp is most effective. The
dining-room lamp can be provided with a pretty
silk shade, or, whore it is preferred, a plain wliite
glass shade, and can be carried out in wrought
iron metal work or polished brass. (For Care of
Lamps, see p. 77.)
Bracket lamps for hanging on walls are eJso
made in many pretty and effective designs.
Warming the House. - The comfort of the house
will depend not a httle upon the method of
artificial heating adopted during the cold season.
Warming should always be considered in relation
to ventilation as there is a very close connection
between the two.
Rooms may be warmed either by open fire-
pleices, closed stoves (for burning of coal or coke,
g£is and oil), or by hot- water pipes and radiators.
The old-fashioned open grate will always be
popular in EngUsh homes. There is some-
tiling Very cheery and comforting about a
good bright coal fire that is lacking with closed-
in stoves and other methods of heating. It is
true it consumes a large amount of fuel for the
heat it yields, as most of the heat goes up the
cliimney, but it makes the chimney a vtiluable
ventilation shaft, wliich many more economical
grates do not. A great deal of the heat-giving
capacity of a fire will, of course, depend upon
the construction of the grate. Tlie best heating
fire-places have the back and sides of brick and
not of iron, as brick radiates back the heat,
whilst iron lets heat slip through it up the
chimney. The back should loan over the fire,
not away from it. The sUts in the grid that the
coal rests on should be narrow so that cinders
may not fall tlirough and be wasted. Tlie bars
in front of the grate should also be narrow, and
the space beneath the fixe should be closed up
in front by means of an iron sliield. Again, the
grate should be wider in front than at the back.
All these principles of construction are to be
found in the grates devised by Pridgin Teale
and Lionel Teale ; the Teale system, in fact, has
formed the basis of all the latest improvemeats
in fire-grates. Many fire-places are now made
almost entirely of glazed briquette, this mate.-ial
covering both the hearth and fire-place surround.
This is undoubtedly one of the most 8U"tistic as
well as one of the most heat-giving styles of
grate.
An adjustable canopy is in most cases fitted to
the top of modern grates.
Many of the newer types of grate are con-
structed wthout the front bars. Of these the
Wells fire-grates are perhaps the best known.
The " Burkone " patent barlesa fire is another
also of escelleat design ; both grates are so coo-
THE HOUSE
11
Btrueted as to give the maximum of heat with
a mimimum consumption of fuel.
Stoves. - Closed stoves greatly economise fuel
at the expense of ventilation. They often give
the room a stuffy odour, probably from organic
matter in the air being charred by contact with
the stove, and also from the fact that hot iron
is porous and permits the escape of some of the
gaseous products of combustion tlirough it.
They also tend to make the atmosphere un-
pleasantly dry. This latter defect can be
remedied to a certain extent, however, by
keeping trays of water around the stove. The
ventilating stoves specially constructed to admit
air by means of pipes or tubes are the best kind
to use. Various kinds of fuel are used for burn-
ing in these stoves, chief amongst which are coal,
coke, and anthracite coal.
The last-named is a slow-burning natural coal
wliich has three times the heating power of
ordinary bituminous coal, and is absolutely
smokeless. The fuel is very expensive, costing
about £2 per ton, but as one fire will last for
hours, an anthracite stove will really prove an
economy in the long run. It has been calculated
that the average cost for fuel for twelve hours
continuous biirning will not amount to more
than l^d. Anthracite stoves are best fitted in
front of fire-places. Where there is no fire-place,
it is always necessary that the flue pipe should
be carried to a chimney.
Heating by Gas. - The open gas fires, consisting
of jets of flame distributed amongst lumps of
asbestos and burning in an ordinary grate with
An Anthracite Stove.
the chimney just as open as for a coal fire, form
the healthiest method of heating rooms by gas
in ordinary dwelhng-houses.
The most careful ventilation of the room is
necessary when any means of heating by gas
is employed. Whenever gas is used as fuel,
whether in open fires or stoves, trays of water
should be kept near the fire-place or stove to
prevent excessive drying of the atmosphere.
The convenience of gas fixes as labour-saving
Boudoir Grate.
devices is undoubted, and for bedrooms especi-
ally they form an easy and convenient method
of warming, the fact that they can be turned
oS as soon as the room is sufficiently warmed
adding not a Httle to their usefulness. There
are some people, however, who, although they
quite appreciate the many good points about
gas fires, refrain from adopting them from purely
sentimental motives, the coal fire representing to
them the essence of homehness and cheeriness.
Gas stove manufacturers are quite aware of the
existence of this feeling, and are continually
inventing new devices calculated to render the
gas fire as near as possible in appearance to
the coal fire. In a new gas fire-grate sold by
Messrs. Davis & Sons, aiid known as the
" Boudoir Grate," an almost perfect imitation
of a homely log fire is achieved. In the
" Boudoir " fire imitation logs are fitted ; and
the marked resemblance to the effect of the old-
fashioned wood log fire is so great as to almost
make the illusion complete. Tliis grate, it is
interesting to note, was designed by a woman -
IMiss Helen Eddon, of the Gas Light & Coke
Company, London.
Electric Radiators. - Wliere electric light is laid
on in a house the electric radiator stoves make
very convenient, cleanly, and useful heating
apparatus. They can be switched on and off
at will as in the case of electric light. The
initial cost is small, very good radiators being
12
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
procurable for an outlay of 35s. and upwards ;
but they have the drawback of consuming a
great amount of current, and for tliis reason,
unless great care and discrimination aro exer-
cised in their use, they are apt to prove expensive.
Oil-Stoves. - Where no other method of
heating is available oil-stoves are very useful,
but at the same time they have many disad-
vantages. From the point of \dew of ventilation
they ai'e not hygienic, as they use up a good
amount of pure air ; and being neeirly always
used in rooms which contain no fire-place
there is no outlet for the fumes which pass into
the room and \'itiate the atmosphere.
Oil-stoves reqvure constant attention in the
way of cleaning and trimming; they have a
tendency to smell unpleasantly, and this ten-
dency is particularly marked when their care
in either of the above respects is neglected.
The prices of these stoves range from three or
four shillings to two and a half guineas. Very
useful Uttle stoves may be purchased for an
outlay of ten to eleven sliillings. The more
expensive varieties are of course the best. They
burn a good deal of oil, however, and for this
reason, if burning constantly, the weekly outlay
on oil for a stove would represent in many in-
stances more than the outlay on coal for a fire.
Hot-Water Pipes. - This system of heating is
mostly restricted to large houses and pubUc
buildings and institutions. The heat is diffused
by means of hot water circulated through
the house by pipes and radiators. The in-
stalling of a hot-water system amounts to a
considerable sxmi in the first instance. The
disadvantage of this heating arrangement Ues
in the i&ci that it is not easy to regulate the
temperature, and a stuffy atmosphere is usually
the result. Very often in large houses a hot-
water system is installed for heating the hall
and landings, whilst the rooms are heated with
fires in the ordinary way. There is no doubt
that many colds and other similar ills may often
be attributed to the fact that people are apt to
overlook the danger of loitering in a cold and
draughty hall after coming out of a warm room.
Some method of heating the hall to make it of
uniform temperature with the rooms is therefore
highly desirable, and no more efficient method
than that of a hot- water system could bo devised
for the purpose.
General Condition of the House. - Before rent-
ing or purchasing a house, careful investigation
should be also made into the general condition
of the premises.
The roofs should be examined by a builder for
any defect that might give rise to damp and
other similar ills ; walls, flooring, and ceihngs
should be looked into for cracks and other im-
perfections. Care should be taken to find out
that doors fit well, opening and shutting easily,
on their hinges ; also that locks are in good
conditirn. Windows should be examined to see
that cords are good, and that they open both
top and bottom ; also that they are properly
fitted with bolts, and that the shutters (if any)
are in working order.
Defects in cliimneys should be looked for;
these are often indicated by discoloration by
smoke of the marble of the mantelpieces. The
kitchen range and boiler should be tested, care
being taken to find out if a good supply of hot
water can be ensm-ed. In some houses it is
only after a regular furnace has been blazing in
the Icitchen grate for some hours that the water
begins to show any signs of warmth ; this points
to some defect in the boiler, and a plumber should
at once be called in to put matters right.
If the kitchen fire-place is of an obsolete type,
the landlord should be asked to put in a modern
range. AH pipes should be attended to and
put in repair.
Care should be taken to see that the principal
rooms are fitted with belLs, and if so, whether
the latter are in good condition. Needless to
say, the house should be thoroughly clean and
in every way fit for the occupation of the in-
coming tenant. The latter must be careful to
ascertain that this is the case, and also that it
is not infested by rats, mice, beetles, or other
vermin of an even more disagreeable kind.
No pains should be spared in attending to all
these matters, and seeing that attention is paid
to everytliing that makes for comfort. The
landlord who wishes to lot a house is a much
better-tempered and amenable person than the
landlord who has actually " caught" his tenant.
Insist on everything being put in order before
you take over the premises. If matters are
allowed to slide a great deal of future expense
will be entailed, more especially where the house
is taken upon a " repairing " lease. The need
for caution before making a purchase is none
the loss imperative, or else the purcheiser will
find that what with the cost of putting the
premises into repair in the first instance and the
amount expended subsequently upon the general
upkeep of the house, he will have made a very
bad bargain indeed.
It should bo remembered that, excepting in the
case of houses let fvu*nished, a landlord is not
bound in law to put the premises in a state of
repair or even into a habitable condition before
the tenantry commences unless he has entered
into an agreemient to do so with the incoming
tenant.
HOUSE DECORATION
Once a house has been taken and all the
necessary cleaning and repairs have been duly
carried out, the important question of decora-
tion will have to be entered into.
Many women look upon the selection of wall-
paper as a tedious task which is best avoided
where possible, and leave the entire scheme of
papering and decoration to the discretion of
THE HOUSE
13
the landlord, with very often lamentable results.
True, in some instances, the latter may be a
man of taste and may take sufficient pride in
his property to select papers suitable for the
aspect of the various rooms and the purpose
for which they are intended. But such a land-
lord will prove an exception to the general rule.
The idea wliich ranks paramount in the mind
of the average landlord is how to save himself
expense. In these circumstances it may be
taken for granted that if the selection is left to
him his choice will be governed by no other
consideration that that of his pocket.
The policy of leaving the selection of wall-
papers to a landlord is therefore an altogether
fallacious one, and should never be adopted.
If he has arranged to paper and decorate the
premises for the incoming tenant he will be
only too pleased for the latter to make his selec-
tion, provided however that he keeps within
a certain stipvilated sum. If the tenant wishes
to obtain papers of a better quality than those
procurable for the stun allotted, all that he will
have to do wiU be to make up the difference. A
landlord will always consent to an arrangement
of this kind.
It should be ascertained that the walls are
thoroughly dry and clean before the new paper
is put on. The practice of pasting a new paper
over an old one cannot be too highly condemned
from the point of view of cleanliness and sani-
tation. Care should also be taken that the
paper is fixed to the wall with material that
does not turn sour; bad size used for this
purpose is particularly noxious. A great deal
of illness has been traced to the hanging of
wall-papers with bad paste or size. The walls
of newly-built houses should not be properly
papered for six or eight months, as they will
not be thoroughly dry before that time. A
temporary papering should be provided during
this period.
The decorative scheme should be carefully
considered both in regard to the shape, size,
light, and aspect of the various rooms, and also
in regard to the style of furniture which they
will contain. Rooms that are furnished accord-
ing to a special period scheme, for instance,
must bo papered in conformity with the style
of this period. Wall-papers must always act
as a suitable background for the furniture of
a room both in regard to pattern, style, and
colouring, and tliis fact should never be lost
sight of in making a choice. Then, again, the
aspect of a room must influence the choice of
the colour selected ; what are known as warm
colours should not be selected for a room with
a south or south-east aspect, whilst all " cold "
colours should be avoided in the decoration of .
rooms facing north or north-east. Yellow and
red, for instance, are warm coloxors, whilst blue
is what is known as a cold colour. These tliree
colours are known as the " primary " colours.
Any child who has experimented with a bos
of paints will know that blue and yellow mixed
make green, whilst red and blue make purple.
The secondary colours so made may be either
warm or cold colours according to the proportion
in which their primary colours are mixed. In
green, for instance, if the blue preponderates over
the yellow the result is a " cold " colour ; but
many shades of green in which the yellow pre-
ponderates will result in an almost warm colour,
the warmth of the original yellow being judi-
ciously tempered by the admixture of the cold
colour blue. Certain tones of very pale green
should always be avoided, because their colour
is due to an injurious white pigment containing
arsenic. At an inquest held in London a short
time ago on the body of a man it was found that
his death was due to arsenical poisoning from
the cheap green paper on his bedroom wall.
Fires in the bedroom had caused the fliiff fiom
the paper to be distributed over the room, and
as the man was in a weak state of health the
poison germs proved fatal.
Just because some greens are dangerous,
however, it does not follow that green should be
tabooed in house decoration. It is only the
cheap pale cold greens which should be shunned.
Dark green is one of the most useful colo\irs
that can be selected in room decoration, as
most other colours tone or contrast well with
it. Several delicate greens may also be had
which have no injurious ingredients in their
composition.
Dadoes and friezes enter largely into the
scheme of present-day wall-paper decoration,
but their choice must depend upon the size and
height of the room. In small low-ceilinged
rooms dadoes should never be used, as they only
make small rooms look smaller. In regard to
friezes, there is a certain difierence of opinion
amongst furniture experts. Some say that
they should not be used at all in low small
rooms, whilst others maintain that an un-
broken line of wall-paper from floor to ceiling,
far from adding to the apparent height of a
low room, only serves to diminish it, whilst if
the line is broken by means of a narrow frieze,
the eSect is to make the room more loftj'. It
may be said as a general rule, however, that the
striped self-coloured papers are the best to use
in small low-ceilinged rooms, as the stripes
tend to give an impression of height. All papers
with lai'ge patterns should be avoided on the
walls of small rooms, although, if judiciously
chosen, when used in large lofty rooms they are
very eSective. Before choosing a wall-paper it
is always as well to see it in the piece, and to
try the effect of a piece held against the wall
before making the final selection.
One important thing to remember in the
decoration of rooms is that the vaxious de-
corations should not match each other in
monotonous fashion. The colour scheme is
14
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
always more effective, for instance, when carpets
or table coverings or both form a pleasing
contrast to the wall-papers. Wlaere there is a
pattern on the wall-paper, let the cvirtains be
of absolutely plain material ; never repeat tlie
pattern of a wall-paper in the cliintz of curtains
or chair coverings.
Ceilings should always be in light tones and
cornices should harmonise with the ceiling,
whilst all woodwork, including wall skirting,
insides of doors, and windows, should be painted
in a tint to match the principal tones of the
W£ill-paper - with light delicate papers white
woodwork is always suitable. In bedroonis,
the designs of which should be always light
where possible, light woodwork is also an
advantage.
On the whole it may be said that the absolutely
plain papers are those which form the most
effective background for both pictures and
furniture, proxnding of course that sviitable
colourings are chosen. \Vhere a number of
pictvu-es are to be hung, elaborate designs should
never be used. Papers with dull svu-faces show
off good pictures to the best advantage. Picture
rails OP mouldings from wliich the picttires can be
hung by means of pictvire-hooks should
be included in the decoration of all
the reception rooms. These mouldings
not only f oma an additional ornament
to the room, but do away altogether
with the necessity of adopting the old-
fashioned method of suspending the
pictures from large nails in the wall, a
method which is certainly not conducive to the
long life of the wall- paper.
Different Kinds of Papers. - Amongst the most
effective of present-day wall-papers may be
cltissed the plain silk fibre papers in uniform
tints. These have a softness of siu-face which is
peculiarly pleasing and effective. Pretty friezes
in floral and other designs are sold to match
these papers.
The most pleasing effects with all plain papers,
however, are achieved by means of floral borders,
which are not only utilised as friezes, but are
carried down the walls at certain intervals to
form wide panels. These plain papers with
border effects form the most fashionable de-
signs at the present moment. The silk fibre
papers may be had from Is. 6d. per piece, an
especially good quality being obtainable for
2s. 6d.
The plain ingrain papers are also very effective ;
they have a somewhat rougher surface than the
silk fibre papers, and may be had from Is. 6d.
per piece.
The moir^ papers have a surface resembling
the silk after which they are named, and may
be had from Is. 6d. a piece. They are especially
effective when thrown into reUef by a pretty
frieze or border.
Verj' artistic also are the satin stripe papers.
These are in uniform colourings consisting of
satin-like stripes alternating with stripes of a
duller siu'face. Their effect in pink, blue, and
all the lighter shades is dainty in the extreme ;
wliilst carried out in alternate stripes of white
and silver they make a particularly effective
drawing-room decoration, especially when used
as a backgi-ound for seventeenth-century furni-
ture.
Patterned weJl-papers, where they are pre-
ferred, can be very effective if judiciously selected,
but the principle that large and bold designs
are only suitable for large lofty rooms should
never be lost sight of. Several very pretty
designs may be had in the chintz wall-papers.
Stencilled papers are much more expensive
than the other varieties. They are very hand-
some in effect, but on the whole are more suitable
for the decoration of large public buildings than
for that of private houses.
The plain saniteiry washable papers are
especially useful for nursery decoration when
finished with pretty friezes and borders illus-
trating nursery rhymes, fairy stories, or re-
presenting various farmyard animals or any
other objects calculated to appeal to the
childish mind.
Tiled walls form an ideal decoration for the
bath-room, but these are necessarily expensive
and beyond the reach of the average purse.
A very good substitute for tiles is to be had in
the material known as " Emdeca," which con-
sists of an alloy of tin enamelled and is sold at
prices ranging from 2s. 4d. the piece (16^x22
inches) and upwards. This, however, would
also form a somewhat costly decoration for a
bath-room when regarded from the point of
view of only a moderately filled purse, but it can
be used as a dado, the upper part of the walls
being painted with " muraline " or some other
washable preparation. Emdeca is also very
useful for fixing in sheets at the back of wash-
stands and sinks, its appearance being very
cleanly and dainty.
Painting and Distemper. - The usefulness of
paint in wall decoration must not be over-
looked, especially when quite plain walls are
required. It does not show damp or dirt in
the same degree as plain wall-paper, nor is it
liable to fade when exposed to tho glare of the
sun in a room with a sunny aspect.
Of the various preparations for painting
walls " Ripolin " is one of the most satisfactory.
The Flat Ripolin has a dull velvety surface
which is very soft and pleasing in effect. Ripolin
may be had in any colour. It should be finished
off where possible with a paper border or frieze,
and a dado of lincrusta or other material where
the decoration scheme of the room admits of it.
Sanalene is also an excellent paint for wall
decoration. Ripolin Gloss and Sanalene Glosa
are especially good decorations for nui-series,
bath-rooms, larders, kitchens, &c., as they are
THE HOUSE
15
washable. Both Ripolin and Sanalene are also
very usefiil for painting the woodwork of a
room. Plain distempered walls can also be
very effective. Hall's Sanitary Washable Dis-
temper is one of the best to use. It is easily
washed when the walls begin to show signs of
dirt., and proves one of the cheapest and most
economical wall decorations it is possible to
have. A pretty paper frieze can be used with
advantage to finish ofi the decoration of dis-
tempered walls.
Dadoes, Panelling and Relief Work. - Dadoes
make a very effective finish to wall decoration,
being especially suited to rooms with lofty
walls. The Japanese leather papers sold at
from 3s. 6d. a yard are often used in dado work.
Lincrusta is another good material which can
be had at prices varying from Is. a yard and
upwards, a very good quality being procurable
for 3s. or 4s. per yard. The brown lin-
crusta is much used for dining-room dadoes.
" Anaglypta " is also a very useful material
both for dadoes and ceiling relief work. It may
be had in all designs and quaUties, is. a yard
representing a good average price for ordinary
purposes, A pretty dado of white anaglj'pta
makes a very graceful finish to drawing-room
walls.
Dadoes should always be finished with orna-
mental mouldings called dado rails. These
serve not only to set them off to advantage, but
also as a protection to the lower part of the
walls from the knocks of chairs and other
furniture.
Wood panelling makes a very effective decora-
tion for dining-room, library, or study where
the rooms are large and lofty. A panelUng is
carried much higher up the waUs than a dado,
a deep frieze being as a rule the only other wall
decoration required. Oak, mahogany, and cedeur
panellings give a most handsome effect. The
cheapest oak panelling is Is. 6d. a foot. Good
English oak may be had from 2s. 3d. a foot,
whilst mahogany panelling may be had from
2s. a foot. Though the initial expense is
necessarily very great, yet from the point of
view of wear wood panellings are unequalled.
They are easy to keep clean, and can be bodily
removed and fitted in other rooms if desired.
Wood panelling enamelled or painted white is
often used in drawing-room decoration. In very
elaborately decorated period drawing-rooms the
wood is often carried up the walls in very narrow
panels, alternating with panels of silk in deHcate
tints. Such an elaborate scheme of decoration,
however, would only be suitable in very large
and luxuriously fvirnished dwellings. Where
white wood panelling is used in the drawing-
room of the average household it is only carried
to the height of a dado. Needless to say, in very
small rooms panelling of any kind would look
altogether out of place. (For Chimney-piece
Decorations, see p. 22.)
COLOUR SCHEMES FOR DIFFERENT
ROOMS
The Dining-Room. - For the decoration of a
dining-room reds, yellows, buffs, dark greens,
and r\isset browns are the colours most often
selected. There is a certain tradition in regard
to the decoration of a dining-room which dies
hard. Everything about the room must be
imposing, hence a rich red is a very favourite
colour. It is, however, not so fashionable for
this purpose as of yore, its use being to a certain
extent superseded by the present vogue for
papers of buff and russet tints, which are now
being used extensively in the dining-room decora-
tion of the most tastefully furnished houses.
The choice of colour must of course be guided
by the aspect of the room - red, yellow, and the
warmer shades being the most suitable where
it has a north-east aspect, whilst cool dark
greens and mauves are ideal colourings for
rooms with sunny aspects. Red and green,
russet and green, and buff, brown and green,
mauve and grey make admirable dining-room
colour schemes. For instance, a dining-room
papered in red might have dark green curtains,
a dark green table-cover, and an Axminster
carpet in which dark green is the prevaiUng
tone, or else one of these many-toned oriental
carpets, the soft tones of which combine so well
with almost any scheme of colouring ; russet-
colo\ired walls would look well with green cur-
tains, green table-cloth, and a warm red carpet-
square over a dark parquet or polished wood
flooring.
A plain pattemless bufi paper thrown into
relief by a rich brown dado woiild make an ex-
ceptionally handsome background for mahogany
furniture and pictures in dark brown frames,
whilst walls papered in soft mauve with a frieze
of silver grey, mauve curtains, a tapestry
carpet-square with a subdued pattern on a
grey ground, and a tapestry table-cover to
tone with the carpet, would set off a dining-
room suite of oak in Queen Anne style.
The Drawing-Room. - The drawing-room is
the room of aU others which lends itself to Ught
and dehcate treatment. The general effects of
the decorative scheme should be one of bright-
ness and cheerfulness, and, above all, of refine-
ment. Dehcate mauves, soft greens, turquoise
blues, white, pinks, are all suitable colours for
wall decoration. The aspect of the room must
of course be considered. Warm soft pinks and
yellows are best for rooms facing north-east,
whilst soft cool greys, blues and greens form
ideal colourings for rooms with sunny aspects.
Wlnte is particularly suitable in small rooms,
as it gives an impression of greater space. As
a background for Adam's or Empire furniture
it is especially effective. Pretty striped papers
in hght colours with floral friezes go well with
Hepplewhite furniture.
16
THE WOJyiAN'S BOOK
A drawing-room papered or painted in white
would look well with a frieze or floral border of
a pretty shade of blue green with a carpet and
curtains in the same colouring. The entire
woodwork of the room, including mantelpiece,
overmantel, and dado (if anj') would also be
white.
A drawing-room with a north-east eispect
would look well with a pink satin stripe paper
in a soft tone, an art green pile carpet, and
curtains of the same shade of green.
Soft grey wall-paper with a rose-coloured
floral frieze, rose curtains, and rose and grey in
the colour of the carpet would make another
effective colour scheme.
Notliing could bo calculated to set o2 drawing-
room furniture to better advantage than a
light well-pohshed parquet flooring adorned here
and there by one or two choice oriental rugs.
The cost is, however, prohibitive to those who
are not superabundantly supplied with this
world's riches.
Many people who have carpet-squares or rugs
as floor coverings in all the other rooms of the
house prefer a fitted carpet in the drawing-
room. Where square carpets are used " par-
quet " makes the best surround, but this is
necessarily expensive. Failing parquet a good
floor stain should be applied to the surround.
Many good stains are sold to imitate oak, dark
oak, hght oak, walnut, rosewood, satinwood,
and other woods. Both parquet and stained
floorings require to be kept weU polished
(see p. 66).
The Library. - The hbrary should be painted
or papered in sober colours such as brown,
red, tan, and dark green, in keeping with the
dignity of the room. To paper a library in
the pale eu-t shades of blue or green would
be to go against every law of what is fitting
and proper. A good soft Turkey carpet
forms a favourite floor covering for this
room. The shades of Turkey and other oriental
carpets are so skilfully interwoven that they
will tone with almost any colour. Brown walls
and a deep red carpet and curtains are very
effective. All the wood should be in brown.
Oak and other wood panelUngs are largely used
for wall decoration in the libraries of the rich.
They have a very handsome and imposing
effect. Dadoes in dark shades of anaglypta
or hncrusta are very suitable. Red is a
favourite colour in library decoration. Walls
papered in red with brown woodwork, a carpet
in deep tones of green and red, and curtains
to match makes a very effective background.
Breakfast-Room. - The colour treatment of a
breakfast-room will, of course, depend upon its
aspect. In well -planned houses it usually has
a siinny position. A paper with an unobtrusive
rose floral pattern on a white ground would tone
well with an art blue carpet-square. A plain
blue paper with white woodwork, pretty chintz
or cretonne curtains with a pink floral pattern
on a wliite ground, a pretty cord carpet with a
rose pattern on a fawn ground would also be
very suitable.
Bedrooms. - The bedroom papers should be
bright and cheerful-looldng ; never heavy, and,
above aU, intricate designs should bo avoided.
Those are apt to be particularly irritating to an
invaUd who is forced to spend a number of days
in bod, and worrying over the intricacies of a
wall-paper can at times have an ahnost madden-
ing effect upon a person so situated. As illness
is a factor which will have to be reckoned with
in almost every household, let the bedroom
paper be bright yet restful in design { in fact,
noticing can be better than an absolutely plain
wall-paper. Washable distemper also forms
an admirable decoration, and can be had
in all the best and most artistic shades.
Distempered walls, however, should always
be finished off with a pretty frieze. A plain
white paper or distemper, with a pretty floral
border of roses to form a panelled effect, would
go well with a green art square carpet, rose
curtains, and ivory-white woodwork : soft blue
paper would tone well with a pretty tapestry
carpet with a rose design on a fawn ground,
whilst pretty white and rose chintz curtains
would complete the colour scheme. White
papers with pretty floral friezes and borders to
tone with the rest of the decorative scheme form
the most characteristic feature of present-day
bedroom decoration ; a plain white paper with
a very deep wisteria frieze is especially effective
and would look well with a mauve carpet and
mauve curtains.
The Hall. - ^It is a mistake to think that
gloomy colouring is essential to the decoration
of a hall - so much depends upon whether it is
a bright hall or a dark one. Plain papers or
distemper are as a rule the best to use unless the
hall is a very lofty one. Warm shades of red and
terra-ootta are very suitable, or green where the
hall is a particularly bright one. White dadoes,
friezes, and woodwork will go a long way towards
brightening up a dark hall. Very deep friezes
can be losed with good effect. A rich pile caxpet
to tone with the stair carpet and laid over lino-
leum is a very effective floor covering. Wh en the
hall is separated from the outer door by a small
vestibule, the door of tho latter should be Jraped
with curtains to tone with the rest of the
colour scheme. Wlicre hnoleum is used as floor
covering it should be of a simple pai-quetry
pattern. Any vakicd trophies, such as swords,
other armour, fox brushes, &c., &c., form most
suitable decorations for the walls of a hall.
FURNISHING THE HOME
The choice of furniture for the home should
not be undertaken lightly. It is a matter which
calls for the exercise of much discrimination
THE HOUSE
17
and forethought, careful consideration of ways
and means, and, above all, much ingenuity in
cutting one's coat according to one's cloth, and at
the same time getting the best possible value for
money expended.
The requirements of the different rooms in
the house should first be carefully studied, and
a list made out of every piece of furniture
necessary for each separate room, including
carpet, fire-irons, window-curtains, curtain rods,
blinds, &c.
It may take some time to make out a thor-
oughly comprehensive list, but it will prove to
be time well expended. To go to a furniture
shop with only a vague idea of the general wants
of the different rooms is to court disaster at the
outset. Money which should have been ex-
pended upon essentials goes to purchase articles
which may be ornamental, it is true, but which
are totally unnecessary for use, whilst the im-
portant essentials that make for comfort are
either overlooked, or else remembered too late.
It is most important, therefore, to set about
buying furniture in a business-like way. Lack of
method in buying will inevitably result in chaos,
and the shopping for the home, instead of being
a pleasure, as it should be if undertaken in the
proper spirit, will prove a positive ordeal for
the unfortunate shoppers.
Many people who have only a very small sum
to spend upon furnitxire make the mistake of
taking little interest in their shopping, resigning
themselves to the purchase of anything, no matter
how ugly, so long as it is cheap. Never was
there a greater fallacy. Good taste should be
the guiding spirit in the furnishing of the home,
and good taste goes a great deal further than
mere money in this respect. Tlie most beautiful
homes are not necessarily those which have been
furnished without any regard to cost ; rather are
they those upon which care and trouble have
been expended in making a judicious and taste-
ful selection.
A woman of refinement and taste will make a
room in which the furnitiire largely consists of
the results of her own handiwork and skiU look
better and much more desirable than the room
of the woman with unlimited wealth at her
command, who does not possess the necessary
taste to guide her in steering clear of mere
vulgar display. Money is a most important
factor in the furnishing of a home, it is true,
but a very little money can be made to go a long
way if only a httle trouble and care are exercised
in the spending of it. A great deal, of course,
will depend upon the resourcefulness of the
young couple. Some men, for instance, have a
taste for carpentering and carving, then how
can this taste be more satisfactorily employed
than in the furnishing of the home ? Pretty
shelves and book-cases and even tables can be
made in this way at a very trifling cost. Ordinary
orange or soap boxes can be turned into wall
brackets, boot cupboards, and even book-cases.
Cosy window-seats and pretty ottomans can be
turned out by the home upholsterer and car-
penter at a trifling cost. It is wonderful what
can be done with a few yards of chintz and a
Uberal supply of enamel. Dainty hangings for
impromptu curtain cupboards, wall draperies
to hide ugly corners, cushions and window-
curtains can be fashioned from the chintz by
deft and skiJful fingers, whilst ordinary deal
tables and shelves may be converted into very
dainty pieces of furniture indeed by means of
a good coating of enamel well applied. As a
general rule, the homes which require the
exercise of so much care, ingenuity, and abiUty
to make a sura of money go a long way in the
furnishing are those that give the most real
satisfaction to their occupants, and what
greater pleastire can there be than in the realisa-
tion of the fact that the httle pinchings and
contrivings have brought their reward. The
young wife who hears a friend congratulate
her on the appearance of a pretty rug which
she has fashioned from a piece of carpet bought
as a traveller's sample for a few sliillings at
a furniture shop, will experience a much more
genuine thrill of pleasure than will her richer
sister who is complimented upon any article of
furniture upon the purchase of which she has
not expended a single thought.
It should be every woman's aim, therefore,
however small a sum she may have to invest
on the purchase of fxirniture, to see that it is
expended to the best advantage, both from the
point of view of taste and also from that of
suitabihty and wear. Do not aim at handsome
effects which cannot be achieved with the
small sum at your command; cheap imitations
should also be shunned. Let what you have be
good of its kind. It is better to buy one or two
really good pieces of simple and unpretentious
fixrniture and add to them by degrees, than to
buy a quantity of cheap imitation which will
be shabby in a year.
A good deal of furniture is sold upon the hire
system nowadays ; that is to say, that, after the
payment of a certain stipulated small sum as a
deposit by the purchaser the furnitiu?e is de-
livered at his premises, and is paid for in monthly
instalments until the pm-chase is complete.
When a hire contract is entered into with a
good and reliable firm the transaction often
proves satisfactory, and for people who have
not the command of a sum of ready money,
however small, with which to buy their furni-
ture it is a most convenient method, but
in many other respects the liire system is
open to objection. To begin with, it will mean
a great strain upon the income of the young
husband during the years in which he is fii'st
beginning to reahse his added responsibihties,
a strain which is apt to become a veritable
burden in the case of those ups and downs of
18
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
fortune to which every one more or less is
liable. Should any reverse of fortune occur
owing to which for a time he is obliged to sus-
pend his payments, he is confronted with the
probability of ha\'ing the furnitvire taken away,
even though he should have paid off all but the
leist few instalments. Again, when a person
heis a fixed sum to spend, he knows he must
keep within its Mmits, whereas when it is a
question of payment by degrees he often ends
by buying more than he can tifford. As a
matter of principle, therefore, from the point
of view of the young couple who axe just
starting upon the management of a home, the
hire system has much in its disfavour, and,
how3ver small the sum available, it is better
to paj' outright for the furniture, beginning
married life clear of the money responsibiUties
which would be otherwise involved. One can
always begin in a small way, launching out
fiu-ther as the savings accumulate or the income
increases.
A small flat with two bedrooms, a sitting-room,
bath-room, and a kitchen can be very well
fiimished for £50, and much less than that if the
young couple are adept at contriving in the way
already described.
Young engaged couples who have to set about
choosing furniture for their new home would do
well to get some assistance in drawing up a
list of their requirements. Knowledge of the
ins and outs of furnishing is best attained by
experience, and for this reason the bride's
mother will often be able to make many useful
suggestions.
Having made out their list it must next be
their aim to divide up the sum to be spent
upon the various rooms in suitable proportions.
For this they will have to acquire some know-
ledge of the prices of the various articles, and
for information in regard to this point they
cannot do better than send for the catalogues
of one or two of the best furnishing firms.
Furniture catalogues in these enlightened days
are not only true objects of art in regard to
illustrations, but they usually contain all
possible information in regard to the question
of furniture, which makes it exceptionally easy
for the buyer to make a suitable selection.
Comprehensive lists axe drawn up containing
details in regard to each article necessary in
furnishing the home from the table in the dining-
room to the saucepans in the kitchen, and all
the prices are marked in plain figures.
In ewldition, people are advised as to how to
spend certain sums of money on their furniture
to the best advantage. Nearly every furniture
list contains schemes for furnishing flats and
houses for sruns varying from £50 to £500 and
upwards. These schemes are drawn up especi-
ally for the use of people of average means who
have a certain sum to spend and must keep
■within its limits.
Furthermore, all the large firms show model
houses on their premises completely furnished
in accordance with the details in their cata-
logues. A visit to any of these model houses is
an education in itself, and nothing is calculated
to be of greater assistance in giving reUable
guidance to the shopper as to how her money
may be spent. The model dwellings are com-
pletely furnished in every detail, and in each
room a list is usually hung up in some promi-
nent position giving full particulars in regard
to every piece of furniture necessary with the
price of each separate article. The decorative
scheme is complete, including fire-place and
fire-irons, window drapery, curtains and wall
paper, though the estimate in most cases does
not include the latter. A careful study of
these rooms both in regard to the colour
scheme and also to the arrangement of their
actual contents cannot fail to be a useful guide
to any purchaser as to her requirements.
Not only one but three or four furniture show-
rooms should be visited. The shopper can have
no better opportunity of studying really practi-
cal furniture schemes, and even though she
cannot afford to purchase furniture of the kind
so displayed, she will gain many helpful ideas
in planning out her own httle furniture scheme
according to the limitations of her purse. (See
Maples' Ninety Guinea Flat, p. 35.)
FLOORING AND FLOOR COVERINGS
Parquetry. - It should be ascertained that
the floors are well levelled, smooth, and free from
cracks and holes before laying down carpets.
Plasticity and elasticity are very necessary
attributes to all good flooring. It should also
have a good surface capable of easy polish.
Particularly where the floor, or at any rate the
borders of the floors, axe stained and poUshed
is the last quality necessary. Parquetry is the
ideal flooring for hall and reception rooms, but
its cost is very great, and for this reason it is a
luxury to be enjoyed only by the favoured few.
The cost of laying parquetry flooring in a
moderately sized square hall of the kind so often
seen in modern houses and flats might in many
instances be met by economies practised in the
general fvirnishing of the rooms. The first
impressions gained of the interior of the house
upon entering the hall goes a long way to help
the visitor to form an opinion of the whole,
and for this reason the question of hall decora-
tion should never be relegated to the back-
ground when the decorative scheme is planned.
Where paxquetry is used for the entire flooring
it should be of the best. The thin makes are,
however, quite effective as surrounds for
central carpets. They can be purchased at
prices ranging from 3d. per foot and upwards.
Carpets. - Tlie choice of carpets for a house
must first of all depend upon the sum of money
THE HOUSE
19
to be allotted to their purchase. This should
not amoiuit to more than one-sixth of the sum
allowed for furnishing. Where a house or flat
has to be furnished for £90 to £100, for instance,
not more than £15 should be spent on carpets,
whereas out of a sum of £200 for furniture,
the outlay on carpets should not be more than
£30.
It requires the exercise of no little forethought
to make a small sum of money go a long way
in the purchase of floor coverings. First and
foremost cheap showy carpets should be avoided.
One cannot expect good wear out of a very cheap
carpet. It will very soon become faded and
shabby looking, and nothing tends more to spoil
the appearance of a room than a shabby carpet.
For those with hmited purses there can be no
more economical and, at the same time, more
diirable floor coverings than plain felts and
linoleums.
Felts are now largely used as entire fitted
floor carpets. They wear much better, and are
much more eflPective in every way than the
cheaper varieties of carpets, for whereas the
latter are very seldom obtainable in really
good colourings, the plain felts are to be had in
all the best art shades and are most soft and
harmonious in effect. They lend themselves
admirably to the soft subdued colour schemes
now so greatly in vogue, and act as a very
effective background to furniture. When felt
is used as a floor covering there should always
be in addition one or two pretty rugs scattered
here and there about the room. Felt is also
largely used as a surround for a square carpet,
many people preferring it to Hnoleum owing to
the fact that it gives the room an appearance of
greater warmth in winter. Oriental rugs show
up especially well upon a plain felt carpet.
Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster rugs are
also very effective. Many a bargain in rugs
may be picked up at the annual sales of
any large furniture establishment. In many
cases the large furnishing firms and carpet
manufactxirers sell what axe known as
" traveller's samples " of carpet. These run at
times into lengths of a j'ard and over. They
only require to be finished off with a little gallon,
and very pretty and handsome rugs are thus
made at the cost of a few shillings. Pieces of
the very best Brussels, Axminster, and other
well-known makes may be had in this way,
and when the buyer is able to make a good
selection, she will find that she has a much
better rug than it would have been possible for
her to procvire when buying in the ordinary
way.
Carpets wear much longer if an underlay is
provided to keep them from direct contact with
the floor. Plain grey felt is admirable for the
purpose, and serves not only to preserve the
carpet, but also to make it softer to the tread.
A good underfelt may be had from Is. to
Is. 4^d. per yard running from 46 to 54 inches
in width. Bro-wn paper also makes a very good
underlay, and may be purchased for 2d. a yard.
What is known as felt paper is also suitable and
costs 3d. per yard. A species of coarse canvas
is also used for putting under carpet and may be
purcheised for 4^d. a yard.
Art square carpets as a rule do not require
fastening to the floor, as the heavy
furniture of a room would keep them
in place. Heavy rich pile carpets, how-
ever, require to be fastened here and
there. The most handy fastening for a
square carpet consists of a patent brass
nail which fixes into a groove of the
same metaL The groove is screwed into
the floor, a hole being drilled into the
latter to receive it. The carpet can
thus be lifted when necessary with very Patent
little trouble, the nails coming easily out Carpet
of the grooves when it is pulled gently
upwards (see illustration).
Measuring Rooms for Carpets. - Most carpet
manufacturers send representatives to take the
measurements of their customers' rooms for
carpets, but long distances and various other
circumstances sometimes make it impossible
BAY WINDOW
Plan showing Method of Measuring Room
for Carpet.
for them to do so. The diagram here given
shows how a room should be measured
for carpet and surround. When ordering
carpets a similar plan should be sent showing
position of windows, doors, and fire-place, and
giving the measurements in feet and inches.
The dimensions should be accurately taken,
though the plan need not be drawn to scale ;
carpets of any kind can be made up from such a
drawing.
20
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Different Kinds of Carpets. - For good wear,
artistic coloviring, and handsome appearance
generally the various oriental carpets are un-
equalled. Tliey are hand-made and the design
and colouring ai'e so skilfully interwoven that
they will be found to tone well with almost any
colour scheme. Skill in designing is almost a
tradition with the peasants of the East, for the
various designs are handed down from father
to son, and are woven from memory, the keen
eye for designing and colouring being thus an
hereditary gift.
The carpets are sold in the eastern bazaars.
Jlost large carpet -dealers in Europe have agents
in the various well-known centres of the carpet
industry who are entrusted with the purchase
of carpets on behalf of their firm. Turkey
carpets are very rich and handsome in appear-
ance. Tlioy are favourite carpets for the dining-
room, library, or study. The Anatolian Tvirkey
carpets are particularly noted for their delicate
colourings, especially in the lighter shades
suitable for drawing-room carpets. Persian
carpets have a particularly viaried range of
colouring from the handsome rich tints suitable
for dining-room and study, to the soft delicate
tints for drawing-room use. They are also
durable, being very close in texture. Indian
carpets are lower in quality and consequently
less expensive than most other oriental carpets.
The patterns are worked on various light
grounds for drawing-room wear and also
darker grounds suitable for dining-room and
library. The cheapest varieties should not be
chosen as they do not wear well. The better
qualities are, however, very satisfactory, as the
pile of these is close and deep and the colouring
light and harmonious.
Brussels Carpets seem to retain a perennial
hold upon the public favour. They make very
beautiful and durable floor coverings, but a
fair price should always be paid for them. In-
crease of competition in the carpet trade has
induced many manufacturers to place very
cheap carpets upon the market, advertising
them as " Best Brussels " and quoting very low
prices for them. It is impossible to obtain a
good " Brussels " at a low price ; 4s. 9d. a yard
represents a good average figure for best
Brussels carpets, and as a general rule not loss
than 33. 9d. a yard should be paid if a really
good quality carpet is desired. The pattern
of a Brussels carpet always shows through on
the wrong side. The carpets are made by
•weaving thread through a canvas over wires,
the latter being withdrawn after the carpet ia
woven, leaving the loops which form the pile of
the carpet. A good quality Brussels carpet
can always be judged by the length of the loops
or pile. These carpets may bo bought by the
yard or in seamless woven squares.
Axmlnster. - The real hand-made Axminster
carpoi3 make luxurious and therefore costly
floor coverings. Tliey take their name from
the town of Axminster in Devonshire where
they were first made. They have a rich deep
pile and are woven in the most beautiful designs
and colourings. More within the reach of the
average purse are the machine-made Axminster
Pile Carpets. These are to bo had in many
qualities and in a great variety of colourings -
in light tones sxiitablo for di'awing-room use,
and in the deeper colourings suitable for dining-
room and library, and may be pm-chased for
from 4s. 6d. per yard. Tlie patent Axminster
and the Crompton Axminster are the best of
the maoliine-made varieties.
Wilton Carpets. - The Wilton carpets are
noted for theu* soft appearance and plush-like
surface. Tliey are closer in texture, though
shorter in pile than the Axminster carpets.
They are made in a very similar manner to
Brussels carpets with the exception that the
wires are not taken away until the loops are
cut. They are made in a variety of designs
and colourings, the design in self colours being
especially beautiful. Wilton carpets may be
purchased by the yard or in seamless woven
squares.
Kidderminster Carpets. - These are reversible
carpets without pile. They are mostly suitable
for bedrooms. It is never advisable, however,
to use them as fitted carpets, as the dirt gets
very quickly through the carpet to the floor,
remaining there in thick layers if the carpet is
not frequently lifted. Kidderminster squares,
with linoleum surrounds, are the best to use.
Seamless Edderminster squares are now sold
under a great many different names, each
manufacturer having his own name for his
special make of carpet. The carpets known as
" Roman Squares " are well-known varieties of
the Kidderminsters, as also are the Cheviot and
Shetland squares.
Tapestry Carpets are not unlike Brussels in
appearance, but the pattern does not show
through on the wrong side. They are inex-
pensive, and may be had in many pretty designs,
but are not suitable for hard wear.
Velvet Pile Carpets. - Many varieties of velvet
pile carpets are manufactured in imitation of
Wilton carpets. They are inexpensive, but un-
suitable for hard wear.
Stair Carpets. - Stair carpets reqviire to be
very carefully laid over undorfelt or stair-pads.
A sufficient quantity should be bought to
ensure an extra half yard for each flight of
stairs. This will allow for a periodical shifting
of the carpets at the treads about four times
a year so that the Wear is evenly distributed,
the extra half yard being always kept neatly
folded under the last tread of each flight or
under the carpet on the landing. The carpets
will be found to wear much longer if this simple
precaution is taken.
It is always advisable if a saving can bo
THE HOUSE
21
effected elsewhere to spend a little more money
on stair carpets and to have them of as good
a quality as possible. They are subjected to an
enormous amount of wear and tear, and the
very cheap kinds will soon become shabby
looking. , Good pile carpets are the best for
wear, Brussels, Wilton, and Axminster stair
carpets being very effective. Tapestry carpets
are also smtable and may be had at moderate
prices.
Plain felt in one of the art shades makes a
very effective and economical stair covering
especia^y suitable for a house furnished in soft
subdued tones.
Those to whom an inexpensive carpet is a
sine qud non cannot do better than try the
cord stair carpets sold by the Abingdon Carpet
Co., of Thames WTiarf, Abingdon, which are
both cheap and durable.
Stair Rods for keeping the carpet in place on
each tread are indispensable to the staircase
eqtiipment. They are usually of brass and fit
^^
Stair Eod aud Eyelets.
into specially made eyelets. The thin round
rods are the least expensive ; the price varies
wth the degree of their thickness. The flat
sexagonal brass rods are the most handsome,
and add not a little to the appearance of a well-
carpeted staircase.
LINOLEUMS
The inlaid linoleums are the best, as their
colourings and designs are so worked into the
materials that they cannot wear off or be
obUterated. One of the best of the inlaid
linoleums is that known as " Greenwich
Linoleum." " Duroleum " is also very good
and durable.
The entire hall can be covered to advantage
with Greenwich hnoleum or duroleum. The
pattern should be very judiciously selected.
Needless to say, floral patterns are quite out of
place, the most suitable being the simple geo-
metrical patterns in imitation of tiles or par-
quetry. Linoleum requires to be very care-
fully laid and should be pasted to the floor
with the edges of each breadth fastened by a
few headless brads.
In many houses linoleum is largely used instead
of carpets in all the bedrooms. It is certainly
the most hygienic floor covering for a bedroom,
as it does not accumulate dust and can be easily
swept and washed, and it is at the same time
the least expensive. In bedrooms carpeted with
Hnoleum rugs are usually placed at either side
of the bed and in front of the toilet table.
Twelve square yeirds will be required to carpet
a room 12 feet by 9 feet. The outlay will
therefore be most moderate, and to those with
inelastic purses this is a very important con-
sideration.
Linoleum is also a suitable floor covering for
bath-rooms and niurseries. Cork carpet is also
largely used for these rooms. It has the ad-
vantage of being noiseless to the tread, and in
the opinion of many has a wairmer appearance
than hnoleima. It may be had at 2s. 2d. per
yard, the shades in dark green and dark blue
being particularly effective.
CURTAINS AND BUNDS
The decorative effect of a room can be made
or marred by the selection of its ciurtains in
regard to material, colour, and suitabihty to
the various rooms in which they are placed.
In dining-room and Ubrary, for instance.
Portiere CurtainB.
there shovdd always be curtains of tapestry,
chenille, velvet, serge, or other similar materials.
In the drawing-room curtains of dainty materials
such as lace or silk and the various art linens
22
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
are most appropriate, whilst light chintz,
cretonne, lace, musUn, and all other Ught
■washable curtains are suitable for the bedrooms.
The cornice poles from which the curtains
are to be hung must also be suitably chosen.
These will form an item in the general cost of
window decoration which should not be over-
looked. Ninepence per foot represents an
average price for a brass pole one inch in
diameter. For brass poles three inches in
diameter 3s. 3d. per foot would represent a fair
price. White enamelled cornice poles are
suitable for drawing-room and other brightlj'
furnished rooms and are cheaper than the
brass ones. Mahogany poles three inches in
diameter suitable for dining-room and study
maj' be had for Is. per foot. For bay windows
Casement Curtains.
the prices are higher. Rings to match these
poles are sold at prices also varying with their
sizes.
Portiere curtains are often hung over doors,
both for decorative purposes and the exclusion
of draughts. They should bo of materials such
as chenille, velvet, silk, or serge, and should be
hung by means of rings to a rod across which
they can easily be drawn backwards and for-
wards. Where there are curtain cupboards in
the bedrooms, the hangings should always be of
cretonne, linen, or other firm washable material
substantial enough to keep out the dust.
Casement Curtains, are now largely used
instead of the ordinary roller blind, so casement
blinds would be tlio more correct name to give
them. They present a very pretty and decora-
tive appearance and look best with casement
windows, but can also bo used with sash windows.
In th" latter case there must always be separate
bUnds for both upper and lower sash. The
casement cuilains (or bUnds) only reach to the
window sills, and the ordinary side curtains
are used with them. Cretonne, cliintz, case-
ment cloths, silk and Bolton sheeting are the
best materials for these blinds. The selection of
both material and coloiu* will of course depend
upon the decoration aiid upholstery of the room
in which they are used.
Arrangement of Curtains. - Much may be done
to improve an ugly-looking window by the
manner in which the curtains are arranged.
A very narrow straight window may be made
to look wider by extending the cornice pole a
few inches beyond the window on each side.
From this the curtains should hang straight
without being looped up in any way. When
two or three very narrow little windows come
close to each other a top valance can be made
to include them as one wide window. From
either side should hang ciirtains of the same
material as the valance, whilst lace casement
curtains hung over the divisions of the other
windows would serve to complete the one
window illusion, giving a pretty casement effect
to the whole. The casement window lends
itself more readily than any other to decorative
treatment. Special fabrics are sold by all
fiu"niture dealers for this favourite type of
window. In this connection it is interesting
to note the great revival in old-fashioned
fabrics including the actual repetition of the
patterns of the quaint chintzes and printed
hnens which were in vogue dviring the seven-
teenth and eighteenth centuries.
The alcoved casement window is always the
most effective. Pretty casement curtains in
two tiers can adorn the windows, whilst the
broad recess may be occupied by a quaint old-
world window-seat of the same material as the
cm-tains and valance by which the alcove
is enclosed.
Blinds. - Venetian blinds, if of good qualitj',
are always suitable and useful as tlie laths can
be easily cleaned. Their use has to a great
extent been superseded however by the more
ornamental linen or holland blinds trimmed
with lace edging and insertion and working on
spring rollers. Very good quality blinds may
be had for eight or nine shillings each, the cost
of the roller depending upon the particular
patent used. Inexpensive linen blinds suitable
for bedrooms may be had for about four shillings.
With most firms the prices quoted for the blinds
include both the measuring and fitting. Blind
materials are also sold by the yard for people
who prefer to make and fix their blinds them-
selves. Furniture firms usually send pattern
books of these materials when applied for, giving
the price per yard and also the price of the whole
blinds including making and fixing.
Mantelpiece Decoration. - The decoration of
the mantelpiece and its surroundings must con-
THE HOUSE
23
form with the general decorative scheme of the
room. Period furnishing reqxiires that the
cliimney-piece decoration should have a special
treatment, and its decoration should therefore
be placed in the hands of the firm which is
supplying the rest of the fiirniture.
The ugly gilt-edged mirror which formed the
conventional chimney-piece decoration of the
time of our grandmothers is now mercifully
buried in obli\don. Artistic wooden chimney-
pieces and overmantles combined now form part
of the decorative equipment of most tastefully
furnished hoiises. These are constructed of
mahogany and oak or in other dark woodwork
for dining-room and library, and in wood
painted white for drawing-room and morning-
room. The mantelpieces of bedrooms do not
require the elaborate treatment given to those
Illustration showing Artistic Chimney-piece
and Club Curb.
of the reception rooms. Either a picture or
a small overmantle may be placed over the
chimney-piece of the latter, and where the
woodwork is carried up over the mantelpiece
it is only carried up to a very small height.
Where there ai'e no fitted overmantles in
connection with the chimney-pieces of the
reception rooms the latter must be bought
separately. Very pretty overmantles may be
purchased in oak, walnut, mahogany, and wood
painted white.
Mantelpiece drapery is seldom seen now, but
at times it is absolutely necessary to hide an
ugly chimney-piece. In these circumstances
the material used should be as light and graceful
in appearance as possible. Pretty liberty silks
and satins in the delicate art shades make most
effective draperies.
Tiled hearths and marble fenders are much
favoured in present-day house decoration.
Brass and steel fenders should always be kept
Fire-irons.
well polished. A very ornamental type of
fender is that known as the " Club Curb." This
consists of plain brass or iron rails which reach,
at times to a height of two feet and
which are surmounted by an uphol-
stered seat, usually of morocco.
Sometimes the upholstery goes all
round the top of the curb, but more
usually the seats are only at the sides
and corners. A pair of fire-dogs
and the necessary fire-irons, i.e.
shovel, poker, and tongs, should
form part of the equipment of the
fire-place. Very useful for morning-
room, study, and bedrooms are the
little combination set of fia-e-irons
now sold, which fit on to a speci-
ally constructed stand. These are
inexpensive to buy and look very
well. As the stand is of a good
height the fire-irons can easily be taken from it
without having to stoop as in the case of thљ
ordinary fire-dogs.
FURNISHING THE VARIOUS ROOMS
The Dra wing-Room. - This is essentially the
domain of the house mistress, and it is stamped
as it Were with her own individuality. The
woman of refinement and taste makes her
personahty felt not only in the general furniture
scheme of the room, but in the many dainty
Uttle finishing touches without which there
always seems to be something lacking in even
the best furnished drawing-rooms. This some-
thing is invariably absent from the drawing-
room of the wealthy uncultured woman, who,
though she may have had the good sense to
give carte blanche to a reUable furniture dealer
in regard to the choice of furniture, yet fails
utterly in imparting that atmosphere of refine-
ment conveyed by the subtle touch in the arrange-
ment of details which is always characteristic
of the drawing-room of the gentlewoman, how-
ever poorly furnished it may be.
All stiffness and awkwardmess of arrangement
in drawing-room furniture should be avoided.
There should be an air of daintiness and grace
and at the same time of cosiness about the
room. The drawing-room of to-day is not a
room for show but a room for use. It is no
longer thrown open on strictly state occasions,
nor are children nowadays trained to look upon
it as a sort of Bluebeard's chamber only to be
entered upon occasions when both Sunday frocks
and Sunday manners must be domied and the
maxim " Little children may be seen, but not
heard," most rigorously observed. Tliere are
still some middle-clfiss people who keep their
drawing-room as a show-room, only using it on
" At Home " days and for other similar functions ;
but such rooms always wear an air of stiffness
and lack of comfort wliich is often reflected in
24
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the manner of the house mistress upon the rare
occasions when she is called upon to sit in it in
state to do honour to her guests.
Pretty occasional tables and daintily up-
holstered tapestry settees, one or two cosy
tapestry easy-chairs, a tea-table, a d^a^ving-
room cabinet, an escritoire, and a piano should
be present in every well-furnished drawing-room,
to say nothing of such ornamental accessories
as tapestry screens, flower-pots on stands, and
the innumerable ti-ifles which go to complete the
furnisliing of a really cosy room. Needless to
say, hea\'y furniture of all kinds should be
banished ; everything in the room should be as
dainty and artistic as possible.
Inleiid mahogany and rosewood are largely
used in the construction of present-day drawing-
room furniture. There is much that is French
in the modem style, wliich is of graceful and
refined design. Furniture manufacturers seem
to have taken as their groundwork some of the
best characteristics of the old world styles,
Comer Chair.
Occasional Table.
evolving from them a style particularly suitable
for present-day needs. Drawing-room chairs
are of a dainty spindle-legged design, the pretty
little corner chair being especially typical of
present-day drawing-room suites. Tables are
small, light, and graceful. The needs of the
slender purse are particularly well catered for
by the modern furniture dealer. People of
average means are no longer compelled to
furnish their drawing-rooms with all sorts of
odds and ends, and chairs which quarrel with
each other in both colour and design axe now
seldom seen in even the most poorly furnished
rooms, as complete furniture suites in inlaid
mahogany or satinwood can be purchased
for quite a moderate svun. The less expensive
suit<" do not contain so many pieces as the
more expensive kinds ; sometimes only a settee,
two small chairs, two comer chairs, and a round
table are provided. In these circumstances
the furnishing scheme must be completed by
purchasing by degrees one or two upholstered
arm-chairs, and, if possible, a small sum should
be expended upon one or two dainty little
occasional tables to match the rest of the suite.
A cabinet and an escritoire might also be added
as sooa as the purse allows. The settees pro-
vided with drawing-room suites are always of
the same spindle-legged pattern as the chairs,
and an added air of cosiness will therefore be
imparted bj' the addition of a pretty drawing-
room Chesterfield or some other similar type of
softly upholstered settee or couch. A jardiniere
to match the furniture will also be effective ;
and where a brass standard lamp mth a soft
deUcately coloured silk shade, may be had,
the effect of the pretty subdued light it gives
at night is very pleasing. A little " tea com-
panion," upon which plates of cake and bread
and butter may be handed round at afternoon
tea, is a piece of furniture the usefulness of which
must be by no means overlooked. A tasteful
fire-screen, preferably one draped in deUcate silk,
liberty style, should be placed before the grate.
Tlie clock should be in keeping with the general
daintiness of the room. Very pretty designs
may be had in the refined Sheraton and Chip-
pendale styles for quite a moderate outlay.
An art tapestry screen in a framework of
mahogany or any other wood of which the
furniture may be composed may also be added
with effect. The drawing-room is essentially a
room to which little extras may be added by
degrees, but - and this is very important - the
additions must always be in keeping T\ith the
general furniture scheme.
The larger the room the more advantageously
can the daintiness of drawing-room furniture
be displayed. It is a mistake, however, to
crowd too much furniture into a small room, not
only from the point of view of space, but owing
to the fact that its effect will be completely
lost and the room made to look smaller than
it is.
A small drawing-room should, if possible, be
papered in white. A white satin striped paper
with a very narrow floral frieze would be effec-
tive. (For Drawing-room Decoration, see p. 15.)
Water-colour sketches and delicate engravings
are the most suitable pictures for drawing-room
walls.
A pretty Indian carpet with a light ground
makes a very effective floor covering. Wilton,
Brussels, and Axminster carpets in the lighter
tones are also suitable (see carpets, p. 20).
Where a seamless woven square carpet is
used in a small room plain Japanese matting
■will be found to make a very good surround.
Many drawing-rooms are furnished nowadays
in reproductions of famous period styles such
as Chippendale, Adam, Sheraton, Hepplewhite,
Louis XV., or Louis XVI. Needless to say,
where such a style is adopted everything must
be in keeping. Chairs of one period must not
be mixed up with tables of anotlicr, and a bureau
of still another epoch ; wall papers and carpets
must also be chosen in accordance with the
particular furniture scheme.
Arrangement of Furniture. - A great deal will
depend upon the suitable arrangement of the
THE HOUSE
25
room. The position of a piano, for instance,
has spoiled the effect of many otherwise well-
arranged drawing-rooms. Very often it is
necessary to place an upright piano against the
wall through exigencies of space. A more
graceful effect, however, is usually obtained by
placing it at a convenient angle. Where it is
an old and shabby-looking instrument the face
of it can be turned towards a corner of the room
hidden from aU but the pianist, whilst the back
can be draped in silk of a delicate art shade.
Whenever an upright piano is placed with its
back turned away from the wall it should be
draped in this manner.
Grand pianos give an air of " finish " to a
drawing-room wliich is achieved by no other
means. A pretty silk cover should be kept
over the top if photograplis or ornaments of any
kind are to stand upon it. It is bad taste to
have too many ornaments or photogi-aphs on a
piano, a panel photograph in a very handsome
frame and one or two choice ornaments being
quite sufficient. It requires
a very large room to show
off a grand piano to advan-
tage. Demi -grands look very
well, and the ' ' Baby Grands ' '
are very suitable both for
large and moderately siz;ed
rooms. Piano-stools are not
now inartistic as of yore.
The high round piano-stools
are things of the past ; more
attention is now paid to both comfort and appear-
ance in regard to this piece of furniture. The
design pictured in our illustration is much in
vogue at present.
Choice of a Piano. - In choosing a piano four
important things must be considered, i.e. size,
volume of sound, tone, and touch. In connection
with the first two the size of the room must be
taken into consideration so that both size and
volume of sound are in proportion. In regard
to tone, where singing is an accomplishment in
the family it must be seen that the piano has a
good singing tone. The pianist of the family
should also try it before it is purchased to see
that it is in every way to his (or her) satisfaction
in regard to touch. There are many makes of
pianos noted for their soft beautiful tones, such
as those bearing the names of Rud Ibach, Sohn ;
Bechstein, Erard, and innumerable others.
Hall, Staircase, and Landings. - Within recent
years good taste in hall furniture has decidedly
increased. There is a leaning towards the
artistic in every way. Instead of the one time
conventional combined hat-rack and umbrella-
stand we find the quaint, old world monk's
settle and the separate umbrella-stand and
neat wall rack for hats and coats. Oak is a very
favourite wood for hall furniture. Imposing
looking richly carved oak settles with chairs to
match are pieces of furniture upon which very
Piano-Stool.
large sums of money may be spent, but the needs
of the shopper with the slender purse have been
by no means overlooked in tliis connection.
Plain artistically designed settles may be had in
fumed oak for as small a sum as £1, Is. ; a neat
fumed oak umbrella-stand can be purchased for
six or seven shilhngs, whilst high-backed oak
chairs may also be had for very moderate
prices. Where there is an outer hall or vestibule
both hat-rack and umbrella-stand should be
Hat-Rack.
placed there. A grandfather's clock is a very
effective piece of hall furniture. It should always
occupy a prominent position near the staircase.
Mats to be placed outside thљ various room
doors should not be overlooked when furnishing
the hall. There should also be a good fibre
mat in the vestibule.
If the hall is a bright one some pictures can
be displayed to advantage upon the walls, also
any military or hunting trophies (see Hall
Decoration, p. 16). Where there is a high
white dado crowned with a projecting rail or
Umbrella-Stand.
sheK, one or two good pieces of china might be
displayed upon this.
Wliere the haU is carpeted staircase and
landing carpets should match the hall carpet.
In high houses, however, the flight of stairs
leading to the servants' room may be covered with
oilcloth. If a tenant is fortunate enough to
seem-e a house with a tiled hall, she will be
spared the expense of purchasing a floor -covering
of any kind, for a few mats will be all that is
26
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
necessary. One or two pictures may be hung on
the walls of the stair"-ay if the hght is sufficiently
good for them to be properly seen.
WTiere there axe good landings these are
capable of tasteful decorative treatment. In
houses where there is a large alcoved landing
leading from tho first flight of stairs to a side
wing of the house, the alcove should bo prettily
draped with curtains. A low-standing book-
case enamelled wliite could bo placed upon the
side facing the stairs with one or two choice
pieces of art pottery displayed upon it. A
small table and two chairs could occupy the
curtained recess to the left. Tliose who are the
fortunate possessors of some good piece of
statuary might display it here to advantage.
One or two tall J8u:dinieres contsuning palms
Monk's Settle.
■would also be effective. Such a landing, if
cosily furnished, can easily be used as a smoking
lounge. We do not all possess large square
landings, however, but even very tiny landings,
if of the proper shape, can be gracefully treated
by means of hangings and appropriately placed
jsu'dinieres.
There are so very many different types of
halls and landings that it is rather difficult to
lay down hard and fast rules for their treatment.
The ordinary passage hall does not lend itself
to much decoration. Very often there is only
room for settle, hat-rack, and umbrella-stand.
Chairs are really unnecessary where there is a
good oak settle, but they should always form
part of tho hall fiu-niture where there is none.
The Lounge Hall. - This description covers two
widely different types of hall. The large square
hall of the country mansion, with its carved
wood panelling, deep wide staircase, and hand-
some furniture, need not hero be dealt with.
Such halls aire only possessed as a rule by people
with whom money is no object and who can
afford to pay for the most ejqiert advice upon
the question of furnishing. But there is another
type of square haU which is often met with
now a lays, i.e. that which forms a characteristic
feature of tho modem type of bungalow or flat.
In the smaller flats where there is only one
sitting-room a hall of tliis kind has to do duty
as another sitting-room or lounge. In these
circumstances it should be furnished as much
like a room as possible. Screens should be
used to keep off the draught from tho front
door, whilst curtains should hang from the doors
of the rooms wliich lead out into the hall. A
cork carpet in a sliade of axt green could be used
as a floor-covering, with two or three warm cosy-
looking mats scattered over it. Umbrella-stand
and hat-rack should be banished away in some
liidden corner. Near the fire-place might be
placed a glass-fronted cupboard, painted wliite,
in which either dinner or tea-set could be dis-
played. If space permits there might also be a
low wliite enamelled book-case, upon which one
or two pretty vases in Wedgwood blue could
stand. Two low chairs and a cushioned settee
would complete the " sitting-room " illusion.
A bright fire burning in the grate in winter will
increase the homely and comfortable appearance
of the hall sitting-room. In flats with oiJy one
sitting-room such an arrangement wUl be found
not only cosy but convenient. Care must be
taken, however, to reduce draughts to a mini-
mum. All doors leading on the hall should be
kept closed when it is in use and the portieres
drawn well over them.
Dinlng-Room. - Large sums of money are very
often spent upon dining-room furniture with
very poor results. There is a tradition with
most people that the dining-room must be
sombre and heavy looking, and in the effort of
living up to that tradition they often succeed
in turning out a room which is so gloomy in
appearance that to spend any amount of time
in it is to become hopelessly depressed.
This is a great mistake. The dining-room,
it is true, must be furnished in a dignified
manner, but cheerfulness must not be banished
from it. We have gone past the days of the
ponderoiis Victorian sideboard and hideous
horse-hair chairs. All should realise the fact
that our dining-rooms may be dignified and at
the same time pleasing and artistic.
There was a time when the cost of furnishing
the simplest type of dining-room was so great
that people of slender means could seluom
afford to furnish the room outright, but were
forced to pvirchaso the various articles by
degrees. Nowadays things have changed -
furniture manufactiirers supply complete suites
at reasonable prices, as a visit to any of
their show-rooms can prove, and, what is more,
the workmanship is good and the design
excellent.
In former times the design of cheap furniture
was seldom good, hence the public belief in the
" cheap and naisty " theory which is still so
widely spread. It is true iliat to obtain really
good furniture one must pay a good price, but
the fact remains that manufacturers and dealers
THE HOUSE
27
>rodel Dining-Roora for small Flat (Maple).
A Simple Bedroom {Heal d: Sotis).
28
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
are studying more and more the needs of those
to whom money is an object, recognising that
it is not of people with unlimited wealth at their
disposal with wliich to indulge their most ex-
travagant tastes that the major part of the
great army of shoppers is composed, but rather
of those who have only a certain sum to spend,
and who must necesstirily keep within its hmits.
Diimer-"Waggon.
First of all, the dining-room must be suitably
decorated (see p. 15). A few well-chosen oil-
paintings and family portraits (if any) may adorn
the walls. Failing these some very good en-
graxings in frames of the same wood as the
furniture. A good Turkey carpet is the carpet
par excellence for a dining-room, but we cannot
all afford to indulge in luxuries of the kind.
Let the carpet at any rate be as soft in
appearance as possible, with a good pile. Oak,
mahogany, and walnut are the principal woods
utilised in the manufact\ire of dining-room furni-
ture. Especially inexpensive, and at the same
time good, furnitiore may be had in what is
known as " fumed oak."
At one time even the cheapest makes of
sideboards cost a fair siun, and so very often
this article of furniture had to be banished from
the list of many a young couple furnishing on
very small means. Nowadaj's a most artistic
style of fumed oak sideboard, something akin
to a Welsh dresser in appearance, may be
obtained for an outlay of only a few pounds.
This type of sideboard is very effective in dining-
room decoration. It is a type also which is
very fashionable at the present time. One or
two pieces of china should always bo displayed
on the shelves, Dutch fashion. Blue or blue
and white china looks prettiest with oak. Of
the expensive sideboards in the old Dutch styles
richness of carving is the chief characteristic.
In most of these glass in any shape or form is
conspicuous by its absence.
A dining-room can be well furnished at a
cost of between £18 and £20, the furniture
inclu'lmg an inexpensive fumed oak dresser of
the kind described, some high-backed fumed
oak chairs neatly upholstered in green leather,
a good oak dining-table, a diiuier-waggon, or
butler's tray, an easy-chair, a small writing-
table, and the necosseu-y equipment in the way
of cloth table-cover, curtains, cornice pole,
fender, fire-irons, coal-scuttle, carpet and sur-
round hearthrug. Where strict economy has
to be practised the easy-chair and the writing-
table may be omitted. Very inexpensive black
iron coal-scuttles, gipsy pattern, may be pur-
chased for a few shillings, and can be made to
do duty whore a better kind cannot be afforded.
A pretty cloth or art serge table-cover can be
made at home for a very small outlay, and
casement curtains may also be made for a
trifling cost by the clever home worker. (See
Furnisliing Lists, p. 30.)
Morning and Breakfast-Room. - These two
titles are bracketed together because in the
generality of houses, where there are but three
or four reception rooms at most, the terms
" morning-room " and " breakfast-room " ere
synonymous. The " breakfast " or " morning "
room may be taken to indicate the most generally
useful room in the house. It is writing-room,
sewing-room, and school-room in turn. Many a
morning is spent in this room by the busy house
mistress in writing letters, going over accounts,
and attending to innumerable small household
details. It is also often the room where the
elder children, emancipated from the nursery,
prepare their lessons, and partake of that ever
favovirite meal of childhood - the five o'clock
tea.
Tlie furniture for the morning-room or break-
fast-room must therefore be chosen with due
Gate-legged Table.
regard to the uses to which it will be put. As
meals are to be served in this room a sideboard
will be necessary. This can be much smaller
and of lighter design than that of the dining-
room. Then there must be a table - a fair-
sized round gate-leg table of fumed oak would
be useful and at the same time inexpensive.
THE HOUSE
29
&3 a good one may be purchased for about
£3. Fumed oak chairs with rush seats may
be purchased for from 12s. each. In addi-
tion, there should be a large lounge easy-chair
or two small tapestry arm-chairs, a small
writing-table for the special use of the house
mistress, and a book-case or some book-shelves
for the children's school books.
Wliere there are no cliildren, the morning-
room Tvill be probably utilised as her own
special room by the mistress of the house. In
these circumstances she will be able to give
full scope to her taste for dainty and graceful
effects. Chairs may be upholstered in tapestry,
pretty engra\'ings can be hung upon the walls,
and, apart from the sideboard, which is a neces-
sity in a breakfast-room, the whole scheme of
furnishing may be such that it might be aptly
termed a " boudoir."
There are many possibiHties in the f\:rnishing
of a morning-room, possibiHties which must
always, however, be guided by individual cir-
cumstances.
The Library. - ^There should be an air of rest-
fulness about the Hbrary, conducive to read-
ing and study. A flat leather top desk with
drawers on either side should be placed in a
good light. The writing equipment should be
complete in every way - inkstand, pen-rest,
blotter and letter weight, a stand for note-
paper and envelopes and telegram forms and
postcards should all be there and should be kept
neat and tidy. To go with this desk there should
be a low desk-chair - the round leather up-
holstered revolving-chair is the most comfort-
able type. A very large arm-chair in which
the master of the house can lounge at ease
while reading one of his favourite works is also
Flat Library Desk
a necessity in the well -furnished library. Near
this chair should be one of the ever-handy re-
volving book-cases from which the reader may
select a volume at will. A large stationary
book-case will also be necessary. This should
be with adjustable shelves in order that books
of all sizes can be placed upon it. A very good
sectional extending book-case may be purchased
for a little over £3. One or two high-backed
Hevolring Book-case.
chairs should also be in the room, and a good
hassock footstool should be placed neeir the easy-
chair.
In houses where there is Uttle money to spend
upon book-cases and other similar articles of
furniture, much may be done
by the home worker to-
wards its equipment. With
a Httle knowledge of carpen-
tering inexpensive shelves
can be made and fitted
round the walls. These
should always have some
sort of border, not only as
a finish but to keep off the
dust. It may be often
found advantageous to pur-
chase the writing-table from
one of the large oflEice-fur-
nishing firms, as very often
these firms have second-hand goods which they
are willing to sell at quite a moderate sum.
Desk-chairs may often also be purchased in
this way. A httle smokers' cabinet should also
find a place upon the wall.
There should always be dark curtains in the
library - red or green are particularly suitable.
Where there is a portiere over the door it should
be of the same colour as the window curtains.
(For Library Decoration, see p. 16.)
Bedroom Furniture. - The stiffness, ugUness,
and lack of comfort generally which character-
ised the furnit-ure of the early Victorian era,
was in no way more clearly demonstrated than
in regard to furniture for the bedroom.
Happily the heavy, cumbersome high chest of
drawers, the ungainly wardrobe, and the deal
muslin-bedecked table which, svu-mounted by a
looking-glass of the most conventional pattern,
did duty as toilet-table in even the best rooms
of the average middle-class household, are now
things of the past, at any rate with all those
who prefer the present-day artistic furniture
to the atrocities of the early Victorian tradition.
There are still some people, it is true, who, whilst
sparing neither trouble nor expense in the sviit-
able furnishing of dining-room, drawing-room,
and other reception rooms, barely give a thought
to the furnishing of their bedrooms. So long
as the reception rooms are nice anything will
do for the bedrooms seems to be their guiding
principle, and whilst money is spent ungrudg-
ingly upon the decoration of the other rooms
a totally inadequate sum is set apart for the
furnishing of those rooms in which after all they
spend a very considerable portion of the twenty-
four hours.
Happily in these enlightened days there are
comparatively few people who take so de-
cidedly unenlightened a view of things. With
those who do, it must be presumed that tradi-
tion dies hard and that they are simply carrying
on the tastes of their grandmothers. Sensible
30
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
people are keenly alive to the fact that, apart
from the usual number of hours spent in the
bedroom, intervals of illness are apt to occur
in the hves of every one of us. In these cir-
cumstances should not our bedrooms be as
bright, cheery, and as pleasing to the eye as pos-
sible ? Neither ungainly inartistic furniture
nor hideous wall pa^^er will be conducive to the
cheerfulness of an invalid in that period of con-
valescence, during which a morbid and depressed
state of mind will do more than anytliing else to
retard recovery. On the other hand, a prettily
decorated room, with a bright pleasing wall
paper, tasteful furniture, however simple, and
a cheerj- aspect have more influence in keeping
up the spirits of the invalid and assisting her
to a speedy recovery than one would generally
suppose.
The ideal bedroom has a sunny aspect.
Tliere is something especially exhilarating
about the morning sun. Care should be taken,
however, to see that the rays of the sun do not
beat down direct upon the forehead of the
sleeper on those summer mornings when sun-
rise occurs at a time when she has not com-
pleted more than three-quarters of her full
amount of sleep. Needless to say, suitable
blinds should be provided for every bedroom,
and these should be kept well lowered, or, if
there is a casement window, the curtains should
be drawn. When the plan of the room allows of
such an arrangement, the bed should be placed
so that the window does not face, but comes
to one side of it. In this way the discomfort
of the early morning glare will be avoided.
It is also essential that the bed should not
be placed in a draught. The head of the bed
should never be facing the window, for instance,
neither should the fire-place be on the same side
of the room as the door. If only for purposes
of ventilation, there should always be a fire-
place in the bedroom - an open gas-fire is especi-
ally useful, as it does away with the labour of
setting fires and carrying up coals, and can be
turned off and on as required without invohnng
any trouble.
WTien taking a house a Woman should be
careful in looking over the bedrooms to note if
they contain any fitted cupboards. Tliese are
a boon in every household, and, painted a
pretty white to match the woodwork, they
tidd considerably to the ornamentation of the
room. The presence or absence of these cup-
boeirds should alwaj's form a consideration in
the taking of a house. It is also advisable to
study the structure of the walls. In many
cases where cupboards are lacking there maj' be
convenient alcoves where these may easily be
fitted, or, if money is a consideration, they may
be utilised for making pretty curtain cup-
boards. Suitably placed alcoves are capable of
treatn.ent, by which they may add considerably
to the decoration of a room. An alcove just
over the bed, for instance, lends itself to tasteful
curtain drapery. Where one occurs over the
window it may be treated in the same way.
In the Queen Anne style of house especially,
many of the quaint old-world casement windows
are set into deep alcoves. What prettier effect
may bo obtained than by furnishing the window
with a dainty chintz-covered window-seat, and
draping the alcove with head valance and
curtains of chintz to match that used in the
upholstering of the seat ?
The furnishing of the bedroom should be
studied first of all from the point of view of
hygiene and comfort. Where there is a fitted
carpet to the room, or a square carpet which
goes under the bed, it should be seen that the
mattress of the latter stands at a sufficient height
from the floor to enable the dust to be easily
taken from underneath it. There are many
makes of bedsteads nowadays, more especially
those of the various modern French styles,
which are so low as to almost touch the floor,
leaving little or no space between the floor and
the mattress. Such a style of bed may be
artistic, but it is certainly far from comfortable,
and in no circumstances shoidd comfort be
made to give way to art, the ideal furnituro
being essentially that in which art and comfort
are combined.
Medical authorities have laid much stress
upon the fact that carpets in bedrooms are
merely harbingers of dust and dirt, and there-
fore unhygienic. Tl:ey maintain that there
should be no carpets under beds, as these cannot
always be moved every day for sweeping purposes
and dust is apt to accumulate there because un-
seen. Bedroom manufacturers have, however,
found a way out of this difficultj', and Messrs.
Heal & Sons, of Tottenham Court Road, London,
sell beds which are furnished with patent rails
upon which they can be moved with the greatest
ease.
There is no doubt that linoleum is the best
floor covering for a bedroom from the point of
hygiene. It can be easily swept and washed,
and one or two nice rugs will serve as a con-
cession to the claims of comfort and warmth.
The next best thing would of course be a
square carpet with a linoleum or a stained floor
surround. There are people who object, how-
ever, to the cold look of the bare boards or
of linoleum even if they only appear on the
border of the room. In these circumstances a
plain felt surround to tone with the carpet is
very useful.
The brass bedstead is much in vogue at the
present day. It is not the cumbersome-looking
object of yore, but a well-designed and useful
piece of furniture. Wlien fitted with swinging
Italian wings it can bo prettily draped with
dainty cretonne or other artistic hangings to
tone with the colour scheme of the room.
Draperies of this kind suspended from wings.
THE HOUSE
31
and wall draperies hung in artistic fashion from
the wall against which the head of the bed stands,
are the only form of bed-curtains used nowadays,
excepting in the case of the old-time four-poster
Bedstead on Metal Tramway.
which is still to be found in many homes, and
revivals of which many bed manufacturers are
placing upon the market. Valances are as a
rule Umited to the latter type of bedstead.
The wooden bedsteads now on the market are
artistic in every way and free from that ugliness
which characterised those of Victorian days. They
are no longer ungainly, cxmibersome pieces of
furniture, too heavy to move and consequently
difficult to clean. Fitted with all the most up
to date improvements, including iron frames
and wire mattresses, they do not now act as
harbingers of dust and dirt. To the many
hygienic disadvantages of the old-time wooden
bedstead may be ascribed the subsequent craze
for anything in metal, however ugly in pattern.
Some of the most ornamental wooden bedsteads
are those of inlaid mahogany in Sheraton style.
Iron bedsteads can be had for the most moderate
outlay. A white enamelled iron bedstead al-
ways looks dainty and clean. It is one of the
best and most useful types of inexpensive
bedsteads, and looks especially well with brass
tope. The ordinary low iron bedsteads are
very suitable for servants' rooms.
Bedding. - It is of the utmost importance that
the bedding should be of the best. Many people
are apt to study show more than comfort when
furnishing their bedrooms, with the result that
the important question of bedding is very often
neglected. It never answers to purchase very
cheap bedding, for the latter is apt to prove
only too dear in the long run. A cheap mattress
is not only uncomfortable, but it is an actual
menace to the health.
Woven wire spring mattresses with good
horse-hair or wool over mattresses should be
used where possible. Good hair mattresses,
however, are apt to be somewhat costly, and
therefore are not always within reach of the
average purse. Good wool mattresses are in-
finitely preferable to cheap hair ones. They
should in all cases be purchased from a re-
liable furniture dealer, preferably from a firm
who make a speciality of bedroom furniture
and bedding, for in this case good value is
assured.
In buying mattresses never be misled by
an attractive covering, which too often hides
much that is deficient in the quality of the
material of which it is comprised. For this
reason it is seldom ad\'isable to purchase what
are described as " bargains " at sales. The
common qualities of horse-hair mattresses are
filled with various sorts of " short hair " which
afford no hold to the " ties," and therefore tend
to move and work into those uncomfortable
" lumps " which so often turn a bed into a
regular instrument of torture. On the other
hand, the fine long horse-hair used in good
Italian Wing-Drapery.
mattresses gives a proper hold to the " ties "
and is kept in place by them. The French
mattresses, which contain a special quality of
hair mixed with white wool, are exceedingly soft
and comfortable. Cheap flock mattresses, which
are made up from any sort of rags, shovild be
alwaj's avoided.
32
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The wii-e mattress should be covered with a
piece of ticking or Hessian to prevent it from
rubbing the hair mattress which is placed over it.
The colour scheme of a bedroom should be
as bright and cheery as possible, and always
chosen with due regard to the aspect of the
room and to the furniture which it will
contain (see p. 16). Whore the hygienic method
of covering the floor with linoleum or cork
carpet is adopted, care should be ta.ken to prevent
t 1 3 room from having a bare appearance by
putting down a number of warm and cosy-look-
ing rugs of as good a quality as can be procured
for the sum available. Everything that tonds
to harbour dust and dirt should be absent from
the bedroom. There should never be an excess
of ornamental trifles and knick-knacks about
the room. Girls are especially prone to collect
these httle ornaments, to the despair of many
a hard-working housemaid.
Furniture. - The best-designed bedroom furni-
ture of to-day combines much of the artistic
effects of the famous epochs in furnitTore history
with a strict attention to convenience of con-
struction as necessitated by modern needs.
Modern bedroom furniture manufacturers also
make a special feature of reproductions from
the antique. Needless to say, when a bedroom
is furnished in accordance with a certain period,
decoration, carpet, hangings, all must conform
with this furniture scheme.
Oak, naahogany, satinwood, rosewood are
very favourite materials for bedroom suites.
There is also a great vogue at present for white
enamelled furniture. This fashion comes as
something in the nature of a blessing in disguise
for the woman with a slender purse, as the
white enamelled suites show a wide range of
prices, the cheaper kinds being procurable for
a few pounds.
Every furnitxire sviito should comprise a
wardrobe, a dressing-table, a wash-stand and
two chairs, although in some of the more
inexpensive smtes only toilet table, chest of
drawers, and wash-stand are included. When
the latter is not fitted with rails for towels a
towel-horse should be provided. It should be
ascertained that the locks of drawers and
wardrobe cupboards are in order, that the
drawers open and shut easily, and that the
inside of each piece of furniture is in as good
condition as the outside. The wash-stand
should have a marble top and be tiled at the
back. A sheet of emdcca might also be fixed
up at the back of the wash-stand instead of the
ordinary " splasher " for the protection of the
wall. A cosy easy-chair and a table should
also be included in the bedroom furnit'ire
where possible. Very daintily upholstered little
tapestry arm-chairs may be obtained at quite
moderate prices. For an inexpensively furnished
room an ordinary basket chair painted to tone
with the furnitiire and with pretty cretonne
cushions can be made to answer the purpose.
A box ottoman daintily upholstered in cretonne
is a most useful piece of furniture, more especi-
allj' in flats where the cupboard accommodation
is necessarily limited. This inay be either
purchased from a furniture shop or fashioned
by the deft fingers of the home upholsterer.
Pretty cretonne, chintz, lace, or other washable
curtains are the most suitable for the bed-
room. Heavy hangings of any kind should be
avoided. The walls should not be covered with
pictures - one or two engra\'ing8 in Ught-coloured
frames will be sufficient.
The toilet-table linen should always be fresh
and spotless. The pretty duc'icsse sets con-
sisting of a narrow lace-edged or hem-stitched
toilet cover and mats are the most suitable
for the present-day type of table. These sets
are often used also for the wash-stand. They
are apt to get very wet, however, if they are
left on during the toilet ablutions, and for this
reason most people prefer to do without them.
The general equipment of the toilet-table in
regard to pin-cushions (well supplied with pins),
hat-pin and hair-pin tidies must not be neglected.
Any silver displayed on the table should be kept
clean and well polished. All these are details,
attention to which will go a long way to secur-
ing the cosy effect in bedroom decorations which
some people find it so hard to achieve.
THE DRESSING-ROOM
The decoration of a dressing-room should con-
form with that of the bedroom which it adjoins.
It should contain a good roomy
gentleman's wardrobe, a shaving-
stand with mirror, also washstand
and suit-case stand. A shaving-
stand is to be preferred to the
ordinary toilet-table, not only be-
cause it takes up much less room,
though this is an important con-
sideration as dressing-room space
is usually limited, but also be-
cause a shaving-glass is much more
easily adjusted to the correct angle
required by the person shaving,
and, being very light, it is easily
moved to any convenient position.
Toilet Ware. - Over-elaboration
of design in toilet ware should
be avoided in tastefully furnished Shaving-Mirror
homos. Artistic yet simple pat-
terns should be chosen. Patterns after the style
of Wedgwood and Spode arc much favoured by
those whose furnishing is on artistic lines. Plain
colours and simple shapes go best with the
present-day style of bedroom furniture. The
self-coloured art wares are largely used, and
with these the quaintly Hhapod ewer with a
spout like that of a teapot is often seen. On
THE HOUSE
33
the whole, the ewers of a more conventional
design are preferable to these.
In addition to the regular toilet set there
should be a white china slop-pail, a water-bottle,
and a glass in every bedroom.
THE BATH-ROOM
In the bath-room the sanitary fittings should
be beyond reproach. In a rented house this
will of course be the landlord's affair, so when
looking over a house particular attention should
be paid to the bath-room fittings. A good
fitted iron bath of the latest type with taps
for hot and cold water and waste and without
any wooden casing is the best. Iron baths
are preferable to the more luxurious porcelain,
as the latter take a great deal of heat from
the water, taxing the capacity of the kitchen
range to the utmost, whereas with iron baths
the heat of the water is retained. There are
several methods of covering and finishing the
interior surface of iron baths. Of these the
porcelain enamel process is perhaps the most
effective. Where this process has been applied
the interior of the bath presents the same
enamelled surface as earthenware - ^the enamel
is also very durable.
A fitted lavatory basin with hot and cold
Water-supply is very desirable in a bath-room.
Beyond the actual fittings very little furniture
is required. There should be a towel-rail, a
cane-seated chair, a stool, and a rack for sponges
and soap to be hung on the wall next to the bath.
One of the new bath-racks which fit across the
centre of the bath to act as receptacle for the
soap and sponge which the bather is actually
using is also usefiil, as it does away with the
necessity of reaching up whenever anything is
required to the rack on the wall. A cork bath-
mat and one or two warm bath-rugs are also
necessary. There should also be a mirror on
the wall, preferably the regulation bath-room
mirror, with a drawer for brushes and combs.
Cork carpet or linoleum are the best floor
coverings for bath-rooms. (For Bath-room
Wall Coverings, see p. 14.)
FURNISHING A BED-SITTING-ROOM
The bed-sitting-room represents the home of
many a woman worker, who often takes more
pride in the arrangement of the few simple
articles she can call her own and the purchase
of which in many instances have involved
several little acts of self-sacrifice than does the
possessor of the most luxurious furniture which
money can buy.
It is wonderful what good results may be
achieved with comparatively little outlay in the
furnishing of a room of the kind, but necessity
nearly always proves " the mother of invention,"
as the many ingenious yet simple contrivances
which can Tdc resorted to in furnishing a bed-
sitting-room will go very far to prove.
The great object to be attained in furnishing
a bed-sitting-room is to arrange it in such a
manner that it gives no idea of a bedroom during
the daytime. This result is not so difficult to
achieve as one would suppose. Before taking the
room, first of all ascertain that the wall -paper is
not one of those glaring atrocities so often met
with in the present-day lodging-house. If the
room is suitable in every way and the wall-paper is
the only drawback try and get the landlady to
have it re-papered. If she is not disposed to do
so offer to share part of the expense, which will
not be much. Very simple and effective paper
may be bought for an ordinary-sized room at
an entire cost of from 15s. to 20s., including the
work of hanging, and rather than put up with
ugly WaU-paper it will be foimd better in the
long run to bear the cost oneself, if the landlady
is obdurate on the point.
It is well to observe when taking the room
if there are any cupboard fitments. A good
The "Divan" Bed.
roomy cupboard will save the purchase of a
wardrobe which, besides being somewhat ex-
pensive to buy, would go a long way towards
destroying the sitting-room illusion during the
day. If a wardrobe is a necessity then one
of the plain inexpensive bamboo cupboards
without any glass in front would be the best to
purchase. If the cost of a carpet cannot be
afforded, stain the floor with permanganate o£
potash and polish it with bees'-wax and tur-
pentine- ^the cost of this will be very trifling
if you do the whole work yourself. Two or
three pretty rugs may be purchased for a few
sMUings each. A fairly good art square carpet
for a small room may be purchased for about
25s. ; with this only the surround of the floor
need be stained.
The furniture should include a bed which can be
made to look as much like a couch in the daytime
as possible - a perfectly flat bed of the camp
variety without any upstanding head or foot -piece
would do. With this there should be a good
soft wool mattress. The bed should always be
placed against the wall. In the daytime the
bed-clothes can be neatly folded up and placed
C
34
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
nnderneath the mattress, and the whole can be
covered with a pretty Indian rug. Arrange on
this one or two cushions and the result is a
very cosy and effective-looking eastern divan.
Special couch beds are now largely sold by
furniture manufacturers.
A small plain deal table with one or two
drawers may be purchased for five or six sliillings.
This should be stained a shade corresponding
Dwarf Cupboard.
with the rest of the furniture of the room and
placed against the wall, and a good-sized
looldng-glass hung on the wall directly over it.
The table will do duty as both toilet-table and
writing-table. In the daytime the brushes and
hand-mirror, together with the toilet-cover and
mats, may be put aside in the drawer, their
places being taken by a neat blotting-pad, an
ink-stand, and the necessary writing materials.
A dwarf cupboard could be made to do duty
as a washstand, the toilet ware being placed in-
side the cupboard during the daytime ; or, if the
conventional wash-stand is preferred, this could
be placed in a corner of the room and com-
pletely hidden by a large screen.
Then there must be a table large enough for
meals. A round deal gate-leg table would be
very useful, as the flaps can be let down and the
table put on one side when the meal is not in
progress. A large box ottoman in wliich clothes
niay be kept should also form part of the fur-
niture ; one or two smaller ones made out of
sugar-boxes and upholstered in cretonne to
match that of the ottoman would also be useful,
acting as handy receptacles for millinery.
At one side of the room there should be a low
table or cupboard which can do duty as a side-
board. The usefulneas of corner brackets and
shelves in a room of this kind cannot be too
highly estimated. A hanging corner cupboard
with a glass door would bo especially useful for
the display of a dainty afternoon tea service
which cannot safely be trusted downstairs. Very
many large general stores, such as Whiteley's
in London, make a special feature of the sale
of white wood articles for carving, poker work,
or tnamelling. Very well-designed pieces of
furniture may be had in this white wood at
a comparatively smaU cost. Thirty shillings
will purchase a pretty cliina cabinet in whito
wood, wliilst a small book-case with glass doors
may be had for even less, and a hanging book-
case 27 inches liigh would cost from twelve
to ^teon shillings. Small book-shelves and
wall-brackets may be bought for from Is. Ud.
and upwards. When properly stained or
enamelled this furnitui-e looks very well indeed.
For an extra change it can be stained at the shop
where it is purchased
Throe or four smaU chairs and one or two
easy-chairs TsdU complete the furniture of the
room. Upholstered tapestry arm-chairs may
now be had for as Uttle as fifteen shillings.
Wicker chairs when prettily upholstered can
be made to look very cosy. When bought
ready upholstered they necessarily cost more
than when the work is undertaken at home.
In the section upon home carpentery and up-
holstery many useful hints are given in regard
to the making of inexpensive little odds and
ends for the home which the proud possessor
ot a bed-sitting-room would do well to study.
Pretty curtains and draperies, dainty table-
Ottoman
cloths, all can be made by the deft fingers of
the woman who takes a pride in making her
surroundings as cosy and dainty as possible,
however heavily she may be handicapped in
regard to means.
Period Pamltnre.- Distinctive style in furnitiu-e
IS becoming cultivated to a very great extent
nowadays, and people who have the means with
which to indulge their taste in this direction
lilco to furnish at least one room in their house
in accordance with one of the famous furniture
periods. Genuine "* antiques " can as a rule be
only indulged in by those with well-filled purses.
Other people, however, may be fortunate enough
to pos.sess one or two pieces of really good
antique furniture which has come to them by
inheritance. These should be cherished as
articles of real value, and placed amongst
surroundings in keeping with their character.
A good piece of furniture is apt to prove some-
what costly at times in the expenditure entailed
by living up to it. A Louis XVI. cabinet, for
instance, will demand that not only the rest of
the furniture in the room but also the decora-
tion be in the same style. It seems superfluous
to remark that no woman of taste would allow
THE HOUSE
35
such a piece of fiirniture to be placed in a room
furniBhed in accordance with the early Victorian
tradition.
All women should have at least an elementary
knowledge of the chai-acteristics of the various
styles of fm-niture belonging to the famoixs
epochs. Without this knowledge they are apt
to make somewhat glaring errors when attempt-
ing to fvirnish their rooms in accordance with any
particular period. The study of the evolution
of furniture has a fascination peculiarly its own.
Through it the manners and customs of our
forefathers may be traced step by step from the
time when primitive man first began to carve
out of wood or stone those crude implements
suited to his needs, through the centuries of
progression marked by the Gothic, Tudor,
Jacobean and Georgian periods to the Victorian
era (which last, strangely enough, marked a time
of positive decadence in the art of furniture
designs), and thence to the present day.
The connoisseur does not need to concern
herself with the styles of furniture which pre-
vailed prior to the foxirteenth century, however.
The needs of our ancestors in those days were
too simple for the evolution of any really
characteristic style, which could be adapted to
present-day needs. The real evolution of
artistic furniture in this country began with the
Tudor period. Many Italian craftsmen, settled
m England dtiring Henry VIII. 's reign, and the
influence of the Italian Renaissance has left its
mark upon the furniture of the period. The
furniture of the " Jacobean " period has a
dignity all its own. Many people like their
dining-rooms ftirnished in this particular style,
which prevailed during the reign of James I.,
1603 - until the end of the reign of James II.,
1685. It was during the eighteenth century,
however, that English fvtrniture reached its
greatest degree of artibcic perfection, and it is
with this period, therefore, that collectors are
most concerned. It gave birth to such artist-
craftsmen as Chippendale, Adam, Hepplewhite,
and Sheraton, whose names will ever live in the
annals of furniture design. Contemporaneous
with these famous English styles were the
French styles of Louis XV., Louis XVI., the
Directoire, and the First Enapire.
As has been already remarked, during the
Victorian era art in furniture went through
a marked decadence. The furniture of this
recent period is marked by its stiffness, un-
gainliness, and general air of discomfort. It
may safely be said that connoisseurs of the
future will not readily advocate a revival of the
Victorian style.
Those who wish to make a study of the char-
acteristics of the best periods in furniture cannot
do better than read some good books upon the
subject. Mr. Edwin Foley, in his book entitled
" Decorative Furniture," traces the evolution
of artistic furniture from the most remote times.
explaining the main characteristics which dis-
tinguish the art of each particular period. Much
valuable assistance is given to the collector by
the many coloured illustrations of the various
styles wliich are to be found throughout the
book. She should also make a point of visiting
museums and other places where specimens of
old furniture may be seen ; such as the Victoria
and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London ;
the Royal Scottish Miiseum, Edinbixrgh, and the
Dublin Museum. For French decorative furni-
ture in particular the Jones Collection, South
Kensington Museum and the Wallace Collection,
Hertford House, Manchester Square, should be
visited.
SOME FURNISHING ESTIMATES
Tlie following Hsts, giving suggestions in
regard to the best way of spending two fairly
representative sums of money on the furnishing
of a small house or flat, will prove useful to the
young couple who are about to furnish a home,
and who reqtiire guidance not only as to the
furniture to be purchased, but also in regard
to the cost of the various articles. The first
Ust of this has been compiled by Messrs. Maple
in connection with a ninety guinea model flat
displayed at their show-rooms. The second
scheme for furnishing a house for £300 has also
been largely compiled from information obtained
from the same firm -
THE NINETY GUINEA FLAT
The sum of ninety guineas is apportioned
amongst the various rooms as follows : -
2 ft. 6 in. iron bedstead and wire mat-
tress, wool mattress, pad bolster,
and pillow complete .... 1 7 9
Japanned oak wash-stand .... 53
Simple set of toilet ware 3 6
Japanned oak chest of drawers with
dressing-glass fixed 15 6
Cane -seated chair 2 6
Japanned oak towel-rail 19
Fender * 3 6
£4 3 3
Bath-Room
Covering floor with linoleimi . . .
Cane-seated chair
1 pair casement curtains with rod and
fittings
Bath-mat ....
8. d.
4 6
3 6
17 3
Hall
1 pair casement curtains with rod and
fittings
Fumed oak umbrella-stand .
Fumed oak hat-rack ....
Linoleum for covering floor (say)
Black fender
Fumed oak settee . .
6
0
15
0
6
6
11
3
4
6
1
0
£3 4 3
Kitchen
Id.
16| yds. linoleum at Is
4 ft. kitchen table . . .
2 Kitchen chairs at 2s. lOd
Kitchen fender ....
d.
3
6
£2 0 11
Linens, Blankets, &c.
1 pair blankets (84 by 104 in.) .
1 Under-blanket
1 White quilt [ ]
1 Down quilt
2 pairs cotton sheets at 10s. 6d.
2 pairs pillow-cases at 2s. 4d. .
1 pair blankets for servant's bed .
1 Under-blanket
1 Coloured quilt
2 pairs cotton sheets at 58. 1 Id.
1 pair pillow-cases
£ 8. d.
17 9
4 6
12 9
17 6
1 1 0
4 8
8 11
2 11
3 11
11 10
1 11
THE HOUSE
37
2 Damask table-cloths (2 J by 2 yds.; £ s. d.
at 5s. Ud 11 10
6 Napkins for 3 9
6 Huckaback towels for 4 9
3 Bath towels at Is. lid 3 4^
6 Servants' towels at 6^d 3 5
6 Tea-cloths for 2 11
6 Glass-clotlis for 2 6
6 Dusters for 2 0
2 Kitchen table-cloths at Is. ll^d. , 3 11
2 Roller towels at Is. l|d 2 3
£7 8 4i
Cutlery
6 Table knives for
6 Small knives for
1 pair meat-carvers
1 pair game-carvers
1 Steel
6 Electro-plated table forks for .
6 Electro-plated dessert forks for .
4 Electro-plated table spoons for .
6 Electro-plated dessert spoons for
6 Electro -plated tea spoonB for . . .
2 Egg spoons
1 Butter knife
1 pair sugar tongs
2 Electro-plated sauce ladles at 2s. 6d.
1 Electro-plated cruet with mustard
spoon
2 Electro-plated salt spoons at 9d. .
Electro -plated teapot
6
3
5
3
4
9
4
9
2
0
11
3
8
3
7
6
8
3
5
3
1
8
2
6
2
0
5
0
13
G
1
6
15
6
£5 5 2
China and Glass
£ s. d.
Dinner service for six persons . . 16 0
Tea and breakfast service for six
persons 120
Service of glass for 6 persons, viz. : 6
port glasses, 6 tumblers, 6 sherry
glasses, 2 decanters complete . 9 3
Water-bottles and glass for bedroom 1 5
Water-bottles and glass for servant . 10
China and glass jor kitchen use -
6 Plates, assorted sizes .... 16
1 Vegetable^ dish 2 3
3 Dishes for 2 9
1 Sauce boat 6
2 Breakfast cups and saucers at
5^d 11
2 Plates at 3d 6
1 Sugar basin 4
I Milk jug 7
1 Salt cellar 3^
2 Tumblers 5
1 Set of 3 jugs 13
2 Pie dishes 16
2 Pudding bowls
1 Teapot 6d., 2 store jars for Is. 5d.
1 Bread pan
a. d.
1 2
1 11
1 3
£3 6 7J
Ironmongery {Kitchen List)
1 Bath (galvanised)
1 Bowl (hand)
1 Bread grater
1 Cake tin
1 Chopping board
1 Clothes horse
1 Coal scuttle
1 Coffee canister
1 Coffee pot
1 Corkscrew
1 Colander
1 Set of dish mats
3 Dish covers : 1 each, 3s. 6d., 63. 3d.,
7s
1 Dvist pan o . .
1 Egg slice
1 Egg whisk
1 Fish kettle
1 Fish slice
2 Iron spoons for ........
3 Tea spoons , .
1 Set steps
1 Slop-pail
1 Tea canister
1 Tea tray
1 Tin-opener " . .
1 Toasting fork
1 Glass tub (pulp) .......
1 Nutmeg grater
1 Gravy strainer
1 Housemaid's box
1 Tin kettle
1 Iron kettle .........
1 Knife board
1 Knife tray
3 Knives and forks (table) ....
1 Galvanised pail
2 Flat irons for
1 Flat iron stand
1 Flour dredger
1 Flotu" tub
1 Frying pan
1 Funnel
1 Paste board .
1 dozen patty pans .......
1 Pepperbox
1 Plate basket
2 Plate leathers
1 I^tchen poker
1 Rolling pin
1 Salt box
3 Iron saucepans, 1 each. Is. 4d., Is. 9d.,
2s. 9d
".
d.
2
6
1
0
7
8
1
4
5
0
1
11
1
0
1
9
6
1
0
1
11
16
9
1
0
8
6
3
3
8
6
7
7
0
3
0
1
3
2
9
6
6
2
6
2
1
2
2
9
1
2
3
0
7
1
8
2
9
10
1
6
6
6
2
9
1
0
3
2
3
4
4
3
0
2
0
9
6
1
9
6 10
38
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
£ 8. d.
1 Enamelled saucepan 1
1 Set skewers
1 Soap-dish
1 Towel roller and brackets .... 1
1 Wire sieve
3 Wood spoons
Brushes-
1 Hair banister brush 1
1 WTiisk brush 1
1 Long hair broom 2
1 Carpet broom 2
1 Dusting brush 1
1 Nail brush
1 Scrubbing brush 1
1 Bass scrubbing brush
2 Plate brushes for 1
1 Set shoe brushes 2
1 Set stove brushes 2
1 Sweep's brush
£6 1 10
£300 HOUSE
Summary
£ a. d.
Hall 9 13 3
Dining-room 55 4 0
Drawing-room (with piano) . . . . 84 13 3
Moming-room 18 14 11
Best bedroom 32 16 8
Spare bedi-oom 19 8 5
2nd spare bedroom 14 17 11
Servants' bedroom 9 13 0
Kitchen 4 7 2^
Bath-room 1 14 3
Plate and cutlery 9 0 0
Linen and blankets 17 18 5
China and glass 8 0 0
Ironmongery and extra fittings . . 10 0 0
£296 1 3^
This leaves a balance of £3, ISs. 8^d., wliich
will go towards any extra expenditvu-e upon
clocks, cushions, portidres, and fancy table-
covers which have not been included in our
lists.
DETAILED LISTS
Haxl
£
18 yds. stair and landing carpet at
4fl 3
2 doz. rods, eyes and pins
Covering floor with linoleum (say) 12
yds. at Is. 6d
Hat"ack
Fumed oak settle 1
d.
12
0
16
0
18
0
8
6
1
0
Fumed oak umbrella-stand ....
Rug
1 pair casement curtains with rod and
fittings
Fender
£ s.
1 8
17 6
£9 13 3
DiNEsra-RooM
£ s. d.
Axminster pile carpet 12 ft. by 12 ft. .040
Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at
Is. lid. 13 6
2 pairs casement ciu-tains with rod and
fittings .136
Table-cover 15 0
Pierced steel fender 110
Set of fire-irons 9 0
Coal-scoop 110
Mahogany sideboard 8 17 G
Mahogany 2-tier serving-table ... 2 10 0
Dining-table 4 12 6
6 mahogany small chairs upholstered
in morocco at 22s. 6d 6 15 0
Easy -chair upholstered in tapestry .440
Easy-chair upholstered in tapestry .350
Mahogany occasional table . . . . Ill 6
Piano-stool with velvet cushion . •
Inlaid mahogany circular table . . •
Settee upholstered in tapestry . • ■
Easy-chair № ' . ' ' '
1 Inlaid mahogany elbow-chair . . .
4 Inlaid mahogany small chairs at
223. 6d
1 Inlaid mahogany occasional table .
Hearth-rug
Screen
8 17
G
2 17
6
40 0
0
1 2
6
2 5
0
5 7
6
2 12
0
1 17
6
4 10
0
1 6
9
18
0
3 2
6
Kitchen
Covering floor with linoleum
4 ft. kitchen table ....
2 Kitchen chairs at 6s. 6d. .
1 Windsor chair ....
1 Carpet deck-chair . . •
Alarm clock
Coal hod
Strong shovel
Kitchen poker ....
Bug
£84 13 3
£ 8. d.
5
17
13
8
6
5
2
2
1
5
0
9
0
0
6
6
2
H
6
6
£4 7 2*
Bath-Room
Covering floor with Unoleum . . •
Cane-seated chair
Glass with drawer for brush and comb
Bath rack
Bath mat
10
3
11
5
3
d.
0
6
6
6
9
£1 14 3
Bedroom
w 12 ft. . .
£ 8. d.
. 3 12 0
Double set of toilet ware ....
Easy-chair . 12
Hearth-rug
Occasional table •
1 set of bed draperies to match curtains
Oval Sheraton mirror
Screen
Linen basket
£32
Linoleum surround (say) 12 yds. at
Is. Hd
Curb fender
Set of fire-irons
2 pairs casement curtains with rod and
fittings 1
4 ft. 6 in. brass bedstead ^
Wire-woven mattress
Sanitary pad
Hair mattress -
Feather bolster
2 Pillows • • ■
Inlaid mahogany bedroom suite, com-
prising : - Wardrobe, dressing-
chest with glass, washstand fitted
with cupboard, and towel -rail and
two chairs 12
7
6
4
6
0
0
5
6
10
6
5
9
3
9
10
0
18
0
Spare Bedroom
Caledon carpet 12 ft. by 9 ft. . . .
Linoleum surround (say) 10 yds. at
Is. Id. •
2 pairs Mapleton damask ciirtains with
rod and fittings
1 set of bed draperies to match . . .
Fender
Set of fire-irons
3 ft. White and brass bedstead . . .
Wire-woven mattress
Sanitary pad
Hair mattress
Bolster
Feather piUow
White bedroom suite, comprising : -
Wardrobe, dressing-chest, with
glass, washstand fitted with towel -
rail and 2 chairs
Single set toilet ware
Hearth-rug
Easy-chair
Occasional table
Linen basket
Second Spare Bedroom
£
Fumed oak bedstead with wire spring
mattress 2
Sanitary pad
Hair mattress 1
Bolster
Feather pillow * ' *
Fumed oak smte comprising : - 2 ft.
6 ins. wardrobe, 2ft. 6 ins. dressing-
table, washstand, and one chair .
Oak shaving-stand
Easy-chair
Set of toilet ware •
2 pairs casement cm-tains with rod and
fittings
Clothes-basket
Linoleum to cover floor (12 by 9) . .
2 Rugs at 73. 6d. each
£
a.
d.
2
14
0
10
10
1
0
U
17
6
7
6
4
6
1
5
0
7
9
3
9
1
7
6
6
0
9 0
7
le
0
7
11
8
9
12
9
9
9
5
11
£19
8
5
8. d.
4 9
3 9
7 6
6 0
9 0
15 6
40
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Servants' Bkdroom (2 7naid8)
£ s. d.
Covering floor with linoleum ... 99
2 Bedside rugs GO
Two 2 ft. 0 ins, iron bedsteads and
wire mattresses, wool mattresses,
pads, Ijolsters, and pillows com-
plete at £1, 73. 9d. each ... 2 15 6
2 Painted chests of drawers at £1,
9s. 6d. each 2 19 0
2 Painted washstands at 12s. 6d. . . 1 5 0
2 Painted dressing-glasses at 4a. 6d.
each 8 9
2 Painted chairs at 4s. 3d. each . . 8 6
Double set of toilet ware 7 0
Fender 3 6
1 pair casement curtains with rod and
fittings 10 0
£9 13 0
(For Ironmongery, see p. 37.)
(For China and Glass, see p. 37.)
(For Electro-plate and Cutlery, see p. 37.)
LETTING A FURNISHED HOUSE
Speaking generally, it is unad\asable to let a
well -furnished house. To do so is to place your
precious household goods at the mercy of
strangers, who will not appreciate them or care
for them as you do. Dilapidations and break-
ages of various kinds are bound to occur, and
even if their money value is received, there
are some things that cannot be replaced in the
owner's estimation.
Very often, however, a woman finds it ab-
solutely necessary to let her house. She may
be called abroad, and might not care to leave
the house shut up or in charge of a caretaker.
Again, the finances for the annual holiday might
depend to a great extent upon her abiUty
to let it. In these circumstances, therefore,
she must take the utmost precautions to ensure
that it is lot to careful tenants. Tlie house
should bo put in the hands of a good agent,
who will see that all the formalities in regard
to suitable references from the prospective
tenant are proceeded with, and who can make
judicious inquiries apart from these references.
The agent will charge a commission upon the
amount received for rental, together with fees
for drawing up agreement and taking inventory.
An inventory has always to be taken of every
piece of furniture, plate, and linen left in the
house. Wliere the house is large it may some-
times take a whole day to go over this carefully.
The mistress of the houso should see that this
important piece of work is properly done, draw-
ing the agent's attention particularly to articles
she wishes to be carefully noted.
It is usual to leave a certain small supply
of plate and linen ; but the bulk of this with
other cherished articles should be locked care-
fully away. A very large cupboard or a room,
sometimes both, should be reserved for locking-
up piorposes, and the agent should see that the
doors of these are carefully sealed.
If the furniture is very good, never let the
house to people with young children, as these
are often responsible for a great deal of damage.
Dogs, if not under proper control, also often
cause a large amount of wear and tear. It is
as well to have a clause inserted in the agree-
ment that no dogs must be kept without the
landlord's consent. This consent shovild not,
however, be unreasonably withheld. Many people
would not dream of taking a house without
taking their pets with them. Let it be impressed
upon the tenants, therefore, that they will be
held responsible for any additional wear end tear
which the keeping of these pets might entail.
Before letting the house it should be thor-
oughly cleaned from cellar to attic, and the
chimneys should be swept. The tenant should
also leave it as clean in every way as when he
(or she) took up the tenancy.
QUARTER DAYS
English
Lady Day Mar. 25
Midsummer June 24
Michaelmas 1 Sep. 29
Christmas Dec. 25
Scotch
Candlemas Feb. 2
Whitsuntide May 15
Lammas Aug. 1
Martinmas Nov. 11
Half-Quarter Days
Feb. 8, May 9, Aug. 11, and Nov. 11.
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
There is an old and very true saying that " knowledge is power." Nowhere does this maxim
more fittingly apply than in the case of the woman who is thoroughly acquainted with every
detail of the work of the home, and knows how the various domestic duties can be most efficiently
and, at the same time, most expeditiously performed.
Even to the woman who is so comfortably endowed with this world's goods that she can
afford to maintain a staff of highly trained servants at liberal wages, a knowledge of house-
wifery is an invaluable asset. Then hers must be the brain to supervise and direct the smooth
running of the household machinery, to see that each servant performs conscientiously and efficiently
the work allotted to her, that the whole establishment is maintained in that perfect working order
which is a typical feature of the good housewife's regime.
In this section each phase of the servant question is carefully considered. The duties of the
mistre&s in regard to the treatment and management of servants and the proper organisation and
supervision of their work are clearly outlined, as are also the duties of each servant in accordance
with the number kept. Useful information is also included in regard to the engagement of servants,
prevailing scale of wages, allowances and hoHdays.
DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS
Knowledge of Housewifery Advisable. - Like
every other profession the profession of home-
making reqtiires a certain amount of training
and apprenticeship. It is quite a mistaken
notion to think that housewifery comes in-
stinctively and naturally to every woman, and
that the woman who is unfitted for any other
career in life can stay at home and " keep house."
Domestic skill can oni^' be acquired by training.
Whatever other calling a girl or woman may
choose to select, be it ntu-sing, teacliing, medi-
cine, art, or any other of the professions open to
women, both time and money are expended in
order to qualify her for her career. Why should
housekeeping be left out when training in this
is just as essential, seeing that the happiness and
comfort of so many will depend upon her fulfilling
her duties in an intelligent manner ? A woman
who has no knowledge of the right way to
manage a house has no more right to marry and
be responsible for her husband's worldly goods
than a man would have to accept a post the
duties of which he was qiiite ignorant.
A servant is quick to grasp the fact when her
mistress is not versed in the arts of domestic
science, and quicker still to take advantage of
the ignorance thus displayed. She knows that
there is no trained eye to detect flaws in her
work ; that a room half dusted will seldom
evoke a protest - a table carelessly or slovenly
laid will as often as not pass unheeded. The
mistress will be made to suffer in many little
ways for her ignorance in respect to house-
hold duties until by bitter experience she will
awaken to the realisation of the fact that know-
ledge is indeed power, and strive to learn what
she should have known when she first began to
reign as mistress of her own home.
To the girl who is destined to begin married
life in such humble circumstances that she will
not be able to afford to keep even a general
servant, ignorance of the rules of household
work is apt to become something in the nature
of a calamity. An untidy, ill-kept home, to
say nothing of iU-cooked meals, is not conducive
to the good temper or cheerfulness of a husband,
more especially when he comes home after a
hard day's work to find chaos reigning supreme,
and that atmosphere of discomfort which few can
analyse, and only those who have experienced
it can understand. Indeed, it may be said that
many a little " rift within the lute " has been
occasioned by nothing less prosaic than the
lamentable ignorance of her household duties
displayed by the young wife.
Training in housekeeping may be acquired in
different ways. Firstly, a young girl may be
trained in her own home under a good mother
or guardian, and this is the best training of all.
The training may be given gradually tlu"Oughout
early life by allotting her little home duties to
perform and teaching her the importance of the
small things on which the comfort of the home
depends. Or, if the greater part of the girl's
life has been spent away from home in a boarding-
school, then the training may be given in a more
42
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
concentrated form when the school life is over.
The practical nature of a real home training is
of much greater value them any isolated courses
of lessons, which may be taken later on in life.
Training can also be swxjuired at one of the
numerous schools of Domestic Science now
estabUshed in vai'ious parts of the countrj%
and if only sufficient time is allowed this is
another excellent way of learning various
branches of household routine. Finally, know-
ledge can be gained by experience, but this un-
fortunately may be at the expense of needless
worry and anxiety not only to oneself, but to the
other members of the household as well.
Modern housekeeping requires an expert and
not an ignoramus, and there should be nothing
degrading about having to look to the ways of
one's household. In fact, it will generally be
found that the better educated and the more
intelligent a woman is, the higher will be her
housekeeping capacities. A sound knowledge
of household details does not tie one more to
one's own four walls, but it enables one to get
the best results with the least expenditure of
time and energy.
Oversight and Inspection. - ^It is the duty of
the mistress to see that her house is kept as
spotlessly clean as it is possible to make it.
Etich part must receive her attention, not only
the principal rooms of the house, such as the
sitting-rooms and bedrooms, but the kitchen,
scullery and servants' bedrooms as well.
She must also see that food is neither wasted
nor thrown away. This will necessitate a daily
visit to the larder (see p. 101), and even the
scrap-pail and dust-bin must not escape her
notice. Constant watchfulness in this respect
is all-important, and if a mistress thorouglily
understands what ought to be, she will detect
waste from the beginning and be able to put it
right.
Sinks and lavatories must also be included in
the tour of inspection, and if there is any un-
pleasant smell it must be seen to at once.
It will also be the duty of the mistress to see
that the locking up of the house at night is
attended to - that all low windows and doors
of unused rooms are locked and back and front
doors bolted. She must see that silver is care-
fully put away, and that all fires are in a safe
condition to leave.
Order and Arrangement. - The wheels of
domestic mewliinery will not run smoothly
unless the mistress is orderly and methodical
in all her arrangements.
She must first of all have a clear idea of what
she wishes to have done, and then make her
plan accordingly, so apportioning the work
among the different workers that for each detail
some one person is responsible. There must
be a fair division of labour, so that too much
does not fall to one person and not su£Scient
to auotlier.
There must also be a proper time for every-
tliing and everything should be done in its time.
Punctuality and method will contribute essen-
tially to the comfort of the home, and if house-
hold work is systematised there will be little
fear of friction or neglect.
It is impossible to draw out a model plan which
will suit the requirements of all households, so
much depends upon the size of the house, the
number of the family, the style of living, and the
means at disposal ; it therefore rests with each
mistress to devise her own particular working
scheme. She may not always succeed in
attaining her ideal, but she can at least have
a certain standard at which she aims and
which she does her best to attain. This amount
of method must not prevent departure from
routine should circumstances require it. It
must always be remembered that rules are made
for people not people for rules, and the mistake
must not be made of subordinating everything
to the keeping of the manage.
If there is one thing worse than an uncom-
fortable and disorderly home, it is the house-
hold where order and system are carried to such
a pitch that all those pleasantly diverting pur-
suits, which tend at times to upset the general
arrangement of things, are reduced to a nunimuin
in order to avoid unnecessary work, to save the
carpets, keep the furniture in good condition,
or something else of a like nature. This is to
make a desert of a home.
Order and system shovild be silent factors
which do not obtrude themselves, necessities
which are best kept out of sight, but which act
none the less as drops of oil on the machinery
of domestic routine.
Daily Duties. - ^The duties of the mistress of a
household are very numerous and very varied,
and it will be well for her to try to draw out a
plan and time-table of her own daily routine.
The extent of her duties will naturally depend
upon her income, the staff of servants at her
disposal, and the size of her household.
To house the members of her household in
comfort and health, to feed them properly and
nurse them in sickness, to keep household
accounts, to engage servants and allot to tach
their proper share of work, and to do the work
herself when occeision requires, are amorig a
few of the duties which ^v^ll rest upon her
shoulders.
Details of the variovis branches of work for
which she will be responsible will bo found
under their respective headings, such as The
House, The Table, Nursing, &c., and it is hoped
that the instructions there given will prove
helpful to the woman who desires to be a real
home-maker.
The Duty of Cheerfulness. - Cheerfulness is one
of the most valuable of possessions ; it is really
the sunshine of life, the promoter of health and
happiness. To be able to keep up the spirits
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
43
of those around us not only adds to the bright-
ness of the home, but helps to make all duties
comparatively light and easy. It is a woman's
duty to make the life of the home as happy and
gay as possible, and however depressed she may
sometimes feel she ought to struggle against the
feeUng and not damp the spirits of those around
her.
No one can be more trying than the person
who continually gives way to low spirits, going
about with a martyr -like expression, and making
a habit of airing her grievances at every meal
or family gathering. Such a person is a constant
source of irritation to the other members of the
household.
Unfortunately, it is often upon the home-
loving woman that the little worries, the small
contretemps of daily life weigh most heavily.
She takes it too much to heart if her house is
not so spotlessly clean as she would like, or if
her well -planned arrangements have been upset,
and she finds it difficult to look at things from a
right perspective.
It requires some strength of will to grapple
against this spirit of worrpng and getting
depressed, but the home-maker ought to think
of others before herself and do her utmost to
keep these Uttle troubles in the background.
Health and happiness are a thousand times
more important than all the spotless homes in
the world, and to worry over every speck of dust,
over every broken dish, or such-Uke trifles will
only result in greater miseries, broken-down
nerves, and prematiu-e wrinkles and old age.
Home Touches. - ^The duties of the mistress
are not finished when the routine of household
work is set agoing and cleanliness and order
havo been established. The little finishing
touches, the smal^ elegances, the tasteful
arrangement, the special provision made for
individual comfort must come from her or be
wanting altogether. She must endeavovu" to
make the rooms as pretty as possible and give
to them an air of repose and restfulness. Who
does not know the difference between a room
that is merely kept in order by a servant and
one in which the lady of the house takes an
interest as weU. It is perhaps attention to the
small tilings of the house that has the most to
do with the comfort of it, and it is just these
minor details that require the most thought, as
they are outside the ordinary routine. If they
are neglected or forgotten all the cosiness, all
the home feeling and soothing influence will be
gone and bare utility alone will remain.
The true home-maker is also one who has the
intuitive power of divining the tastes and feelings
of others and who is ever ready to minister to
their needs. With a ready tact she will put
herself in the place of those around her, will be
able to perceive their unspoken worries and
disappointments, and sympathise with them
^vithout remark. She will even be able when
occasion arises to shield them from unkindly
notice or an ungenerous remark. Tact of this
kind is perhaps innate, and yet much of it may
be acquired by observation and kindly feeling.
Women are the real home-makers, and it rests
with them to make the four walls in which they
live something more than a mere dwelling.
Happy is the woman who can so surround her
own fireside with the true spirit of home, as to
make it the spot where the brightest and most
desirable of everything is to be found, a harbour
from all outside cares and worries ; she will find
that not alone to herself, but to those around
her as well, it has become the best place in the
world.
Duty towards Herself. - Last but not least, it
is the duty of the mistress to take care of herself
and attend to her health. However busy she
may be, she ought to contrive to have a period
of leisure and to be out of doors for some time
every day. Self-sacrifice in the cause of duty
may become almost a fetich with many women.
No woman, however, is justified in making
herself a domestic drudge. She confers no benefit
upon any one by being a slave to her family and
to her home. The best house-mistress is un-
doubtedly the one who allows herself time for
both relaxation and diversion, realising that with-
out it not only her health, but also her nerves
and her temper would suffer in the long run.
The head of the house must also find time for
her own toilet and make the best of her personal
appearance. There is no occasion for her to
wear costly apparel tinless she can afford it,
but she must always be neat and wear what
suits her and looks attractive. A lady cannot
expect servants to look up to her and pay
attention to their dress if she herself goes about
in slovenly attire ; in this, as in everything else,
she must be the example to be copied.
Beyond the Home. - We often hear it said that
if a woman does her duty in her own home this
is all that can be expected of her. But this is
a very narrow view to take of life, and such a
limited existence is bad not only for the woman
herself, but for the other members of her house-
hold as well. In fact, the reason that so many
heads of famiUes break down in health is because
they wrap themselves up too much in the cares
of their own household and worry so much over
every trifle that it ends in their requiring a rest
cure or something of the kind.
A woman ought, as a responsible member of
society, to use her powers to help and encoxu-age
those beyond the borders of her own home.
If she did this, even to a small extent, she
would find that the strain of constantly thinking
of household affairs was very much relieved,
and that she gained strength for renewed effort.
Then there are social duties to perform -
the paying of calls, the giving of entertainments,
the cultivation of friends, &c., and these are
claims which cannot be neglected. If we shut
44
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ourselves up from our friends and live entirely
within our o^m small circle we very soon become
narrow-minded and end in being forgotten.
ENGAGING SERVANTS
There are several different ways of obtaining
servants. If one can be heard of by recom-
mendation, either tlirough friends or through a
servant in one's employment, tliis is certainly the
most satisfactory and easiest way, but it is only
occasionally that one is favoured by such a
chance.
Then there is the registry oflBce, which may or
may not be good. While there are offices of
high standing, where business is done in an
honest and upright manner, there are many
others whose deaUngs can by no means be
rehed upon. As a rule, city registry offices
are of little use for supplying servants for the
ordinary middle -class household, as they cater
more for hotels and other large estabhshments ;
and while they may have on their boolcs a long
list of butlers, cooks, lady's-maids, parlour-
maids, and other specialists in domestic service,
the cook-general, house-parlourmaid, or general
rarely seeks for a situation through that channel.
A good suburban registry office may, on the
other hand, render valuable assistance, especially
if a girl belonging to a special district is required.
A well-drawn-up advertisement inserted either
in a local paper or in a good general newspaper
with a wide circulation is one of the best means,
and this method often enables one to have a
better choice. The wording of the advertise-
ment must be concise, and at the same time it
must neither be vague nor misleading. A few
particulars as to requirements should be given,
and it should be stated whether the applicant
is to write or to apply in person and at what
hour. The following specimen advertisements
may serve as a guide to those who are inex-
perienced in this work : -
General Servant. - For small flat, three in
family, must understand plain cooking, no
washing. Wages £16-£18. Good health and
references essential. Apply after 4 p.m.
Cook General. - Wanted immediately, small
house, four in family. Wages £18-£20. Late
dinner. Age 25-30. Apply after 7 p.m.
Parlour- maid. - Wanted 1st July, good at silver
and needlework, a little housework. Age 22-28.
Wages £20-£25. Three servants. Apply
Young girls trained in domestic work can also
be obtained from charitable institutions, but
this plan should not be resorted to unless one
is prepared to devote a considerable amount of
time and trouble to their training. Although the
girls have had training of a kind in their institu-
tion, they are as a rule quite unaccustomed to
the nicfties of a private house, and are apt to
be very uncouth in their manners. There is
difficulty, too, in getting other servants to take
kindly to a girl of this class, and not infrequently
it proves an unhappy arrangement on both sides.
It is always wise to have a personal interview
with a ser\'ant before engaging her. This not
only helps tlio mistress to judge of her character
by her appearance, but it also enables the girl
to see the house to which she may be asked to
come, and gives her a better idea of the work
that will be expected of her.
The mistress should begin the interview by
asking the maid some questions as to what
experience she h£is had, how long she remained
in her last place, and what reason she had for
leaving it - what wage she had been hav-ing, and
what she would now expect. Some inquiries
should be made regarding the girl's family and
also whether she has good health or not. Atten-
tion should also be paid to her personal appear-
ance, whether she is clean and tidy in her
person, neatly and suitably dressed, and of a
prepossessing manner. If the information thus
obtained is in the main satisfactory, the mistress
should next give an outline of the duties she
would expect her to perform, and if after a little
mutual conversation the arrangement seems
hkely to suit both parties, details may be
entered into a little more fully.
A servant must never be engaged under false
pretences, and it is never a wise plan to make
things appear better than they really are. It is
better policy to make it quite clear what will be
expected in the way of work, so that there may
be no chance of futiore misunderstanding.
Some information should be given as regards
the habits and customs of the family, the number
of servants kept, and the amount of entertaining
likely to be done. Tlie mistress should also
state her wishes as regards dress, caps, aprons,
&c., and whether she will allow visitors or not.
The question of wages must also be discussed
and a clear statement must be given as to what
time will be allowed off and what holiday will
be given, also what notice must be given
should either party wish to terminate the
engagement. If a cook is being engaged, there
should be a clear understanding about perquisites.
The first conversation in a matter of this kind
counts for a great deal, and there is nothing like
making everything clear at the outset.
If a maid has been asked to come some dis-
tance in order to have this interview, it is usual
to pay her expenses.
With regard to references, a personal inter-
view with the maid's last employer should bo
obtained if possible. There are a few occasions
on which a written character may be safely
accepted, but these should be the exception
and not the rule, and written particulars should
be accepted with a certain amount of caution.
Besides, ladies will always give more information
verbally than they will by writing, and there is
always something to be gained by seeing the
house in which the girl has been previously
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
45
employed, as this also serves as an index as to
what has been expected of her in the way of
service. In fact, it is never a very wise plan
to take a servant who has been employed in
a house out of one's own rank in life. For
instance, a servant who has been employed by
a lodging-house keeper, by small trades-people,
or even in an hotel is not suitable for private
service with gentlefolk, as she would be unac-
customed to the ways of refined people. Each
branch of service has its own standard, and
what may be ideal in one Une of life, falls very
far below the ideal in another.
During the above interview the mistress should
ascertain the reasons for the maid leaving her
place and also her capacity for work. She must
also make inquiries as to her moral character,
whether she is clean, neat, good-tempered, also
whether she has good health and is an early riser.
If the answers to such inquiries prove to be
satisfactory and the mistress considers the girl
likely to suit her requirements, the next step
is to write to the maid or to ask for another in-
terview in order to fix the date of arrival, and
to make the final terms of engagement. In
Scotland and the North there is an old-fashioned
custom of giving arles or earnest money as a
token of engagement. The sum of 2s. or 2s. 6d.
is given to the maid as seahng the contract.
But this is merely an old custom and not a
necessity.
The usual custom of hiring a servant is from
month to month ; this means that they are paid
once a month and the engagement can be
terminated on a month's notice. (See Law of
Master and Servant, p. 377.)
Character-giving. - Although a mistress cannot
be compelled to give her servant a character, it
is customary to do so when a girl is leaving her
employment. The fact of refusing to grant a
reference would almost imply inability to testify
to any good qualities in the girl's character,
and this would be most prejudicial to her future
career.
A character must not, however, be given
lightly ; it is essential to state only what is true.
There must be no exaggeration either of the good
or of the bad points, and the mistress in search
of a maid must be considered as much as the
maid herself.
A mistress has no right to hide some serious
fault from a desire to give the girl a better
chance, but she must be absolutely frank and
impartial in every way. (See Law of Master and
Servant, p. 377.)
WAGES, ALLOWANCES, AND HOUDAYS
Wages. - The wages of an indoor servant
should be paid monthly, dating from the day
the maid enters your service. Or, for con-
venience sake, where there are several servants,
a fixed date may be chosen, say the 1st of the
month as general pay-day. In this case, the
odd days when a girl arrives would have to be
paid for separately. Wages must always be paid
regularly, and under no circumstances should
a servant be obhged to wait for her money.
The amount payable as wages varies very
much in different localities, and one has to
conform very much to custom in a thing of
this kind. The wages in town are usually
higher than those paid in the country.
The following table may serve as an approxi-
mate guide as to what is usually paid : -
Butler £45- £90
Housekeeper
Cook .
Cook-general
Parlour-maid
Housemaid .
House-Parlour-maid
Kitchen-maid
Scullery-maid. .
General Servant .
Lady's-maid
Footman
Valet .
Tweeney
Hall Boy .
30- 80
20- 40
18- 25
16- 25
16- 20
15- 25
12- 20
8- 14
10- 25
25- 50
20- 30
30- 50
10- 16
9- 12
Licences. - An annual Hcence is required for
each man-servant in addition to wages (see
p. 384).
Board Wages. - When servants are left in
charge of a house during the absence of the
family, or if they are sent away temporarily for
the same reason, it is usual to put them on board
wages. This means that in addition to their
regular wage they are paid a sum ranging from
7s. 6d. to 123. 6d. for a woman-servant, and from
12s. to 15s. for a man-servant per week as food
money. The amount varies according to the
style of Uving, and the district in which they
are Uving. Wlien several servants are left
it is very usual for them to club together and
for one, generally the cook, to do the catering ;
but this is a matter of arrangement amongst
themselves. If they are obhged to find their
own accommodation as well as board, an extra
allowance should be paid for lodging or the fare
paid to their own homes.
Food Allowances. - In a small household where
only one or two servants are kept it is not
usual to have food allowances. In fact, the
less difference there is made between the meals
of the family and those of the servants the better.
When there are several servants it is very
customary to make an allowance of such articles
as tea, butter, and sugar, but here, again, unless
there is a large estabhshment it is seldom wise
to make a difference in the quaUty of these
commodities, unless it be tea, where a special
brand such as China tea is frequently used for
the dining-room and another, better liked by
the domestics, is given for kitchen use. Other-
wise to give an inferior quality of anything to
the servants only leads to discontent, and. the
sa\'ing of expense is scarcely noticeable.
46
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The usual allowances for tea, butter, and sugar
are the following : - J lb. tea, i lb. butter, and
1 lb. sugar per week for each servant.
As regards the different meals, the following
is a very usual rate of allowances : -
Breakfast. - Tea, bread and butter and por-
ridge (if wished) with some little addition, such
as dried fish, egg, or boiled bacon. There are
some houses whore this addition is not granted,
but this is poor fare when we consider that a
girl is expected to do a morning's work on the
strength of this early meal.
Lunch. - This is not a recognised meal, but
when breakfast is taken very early, a little
bread and butter, with a cup of milk or a cup of
cocoa, should not be denied, especially as some
girls are unable to take much breakfast.
Dinner. - Tliis meal is usually the same as the
dining-room lunch or early dinner, and consists
of moat with at least one vegetable, and pudding,
or soup and cold meat with a little cheese or
stewed fruit.
Tea. - Bread and butter with a little jam or
dripping cake in addition to tea.
Sapper. - Cocoa or coffee with bread and butter
and cheese, or the remains of any salad, savoury,
or simple pudding left from dinner. Meat is
never given unless there are men-servants, but
a basin of soup may sometimes take the place
of the cocoa or coffee.
Laondry Allowance. - If the washing is not
done at home, servants are usually allowed from
Is. to Is. 6d. for their laundry bill ; if the lesser
sum, some of the smaller articles would require
to be washed by themselves.
Holidays and Time Off Duty. - There is no hard-
and-fast rule as regards this, and it is best for
each mistress to arrange the naatter with her
maids. The usual allowance is an evening or
afternoon once a week with an afternoon and
evening on alternate Sundays ; while a fort-
night's holiday in the year is very general.
TREATMENT OF SERVANTS
It is most important that when a new servant
arrives, the house, or her department of it at
least, should bo in good order. It is very
disheartening to have to commence by cleaning
out cupboards and clearing away some one
else's disorder before any good work can be
started.
In small houses the mistress should take the
maid round and show her where her work
will be. and whore she will find the necessary
implements to perform it. A list of her duties
should be written on a card and hung in some
convenient place, such as the kitchen or pantry,
and it will be just aa well to have the time off
duty stated on the same card. The details of
the m:"id'8 work should be given her by degrees.
There is no use confusing the girl's mind by
telling her too much at once; the necessary
instructions for the first day^s work will be
quite sufficient to begin with. For the first few
days a Uttle patience and forbearance will be
necessary until the girl learns the ways of the
household and the wishes of her employer, and
allowance must be made if everything is not
done exactly as one would wish.
Then, lat"r on, though a mistress cannot ex-
pect perfection, it is her duty to see that the
work is properly and regularly done, and if
anything is wrong, to speak about it at once
and not allow it to shp. This should always
be done in a kindly spirit and without any
show of temper. In fact, if she is very much
annoyed about anything, it is much better to
wait until the first feeling of vexation has passed
over and she is able to speak calmly and firmly
without showing unnecessary vexation.
A servant should never be corrected before
a third person, neither should a message of re-
primand be sent through a child or a fellow-
servant.
Then, again, it is a bad plan to be constantly
going after a servant and doing oneself any
work that may have been slurred over or omitted.
Tliis is fi-equently done to save oneself the
trouble of speaking, but it will not make a
capable nor a reliable maid. A girl ought to
be given a reasonable amount of work to do
and then held responsible for its fulfilment ;
if it is found to be more than she can properly
do it is much wiser to relieve her of some of it
than to have the constant feeling of dissatis-
faction.
Above all things, a mistress must make an
effort to be absolutely fair and consistent, and
there should be nothing underhand in her deal-
ings. By these means she will have a bettor
chance of obtaining faithful service. A good
servant likes to feel that there is a firm hand
over her, and that the mistress notices whether
her work is well or badly done.
While reproof should be given when necessary,
praise must not be withheld when work is well
done. A word of commendation is very wel-
come to all of us. To those who clean oufrooms,
cook our food, brush our boots, &c., we cannot
be too grateful, as, at the best, it is monotonuiis
work, and one's maids are certainly due more
consideration than is frequently given. They
are not aU demons trjnng to " do us " at every
turn, but human, often very human, and they
should certainly be treated reasonably and their
rights respected.
As we exact and expect civility and courtesy
from our maids it is only fair that we should
render them the same. A fear of familiarity
should never be an excuse for a curt answer, nor
justify the omission of " please " from oui'
requests, nor a word of thanks for any service
rendered. Neither should we be reluctant to
wish them the common salutations of " good
morning " and " good night."
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
47
Servants who are treated with this courtesy
of manner will, as a rule, like their place and try
to render faithful service.
It is also fitting that well-perfoi-med duties
which tend to make the home happy and com-
fortable should be rewarded by Utile kind-
nesses- a gift now and then in acknowledgment
of some special service or at a special season,
such as Christmas or on return from a holiday,
or an occasional hoUday or treat. A httle
encouragement of this kind goes a long way
towards making the drudgery of housework
pleasant and easy.
One should not be backward either in raising
the wages of a girl who has worked well. If she
has been in our service for a year or eighteen
months, she is worth more than when she first
came, and the rise will be appreciated so much
more if it is given unsought. Then when a gift
is given, let it be something that shows a httle
kindly thought - a length of print, a mushn
apron, or a pair of stockings are very useful and
sensible, but they are not pretty, and every
girl who is earning a fair wage ought to be able
to afford these necessaries. How much nicer
would be a Uttle handbag and ptirse, a pretty
work-basket, a set of toilet brushes in a case,
or sometMng which she would not Ukely buy
herself, wliich would show the friendly thought
and serve as a httle keepsake.
There is much said nowadays about the dis-
like of the lower classes for domestic service.
One reason to account for this is the increased
education which they receive in the elementary
schools. This naturally creates a spirit of
independence and a wish to rise in the social
scale, which is not altogether unworthy. An
employer, to be successful, must therefore take
this new spirit into consideration and make
allowances for it by respecting the rights of those
who serve. Many mistresses fail to move with
the times, and cannot see that the requirements
of the working-classes are altering, and that
more hberty and more wages is demanded.
Fortunately, much is being done to raise
domestic service to a higher level, and it de-
pends very much upon the employers whether
these efforts succeed or not. If the mistress
herself despises household work, and allows it
to be seen that she looks down upon those who
do it, it will not be surprising if her domestics
cultivate the same ideas. On the contrary,
she ought to be able when necessary to take part
in the household work without in any Way losing
her dignity.
A lack of leisure and want of privacy are other
reasons for making domestic service unpopular.
It frequently happens that a maid has no time
she can call her own, and that she is continually
under the eye of her employer. Now although
there is no hmit regarding the working hours
of a servant, beyond the fact that she must be
allowed a sufficient time to sleep, this does not
entitle us to demand service without relaxation.
A certain amount of leisure must be granted
and then strictly adhered to. An effort, too,
should be made to make this leisure time happy
by letting servants have a comfortable place to sit
in. Often the only means of freedom from work
is to go out of the house, no matter what the
weather is hke. A few boolis or magazines or
even the daily paper sometimes might be passed
on to the kitchen with advantage.
Then a certain amo\int of privacy is due,
especially at meal times. Servants have a right
to take their meals free from interruption, and
they should not be called away if it can possibly
be avoided. Although a mistress should feel
free to enter her kitchen at any time, she ought
to choose her times for doing so and not be con-
tinually passing in and out. -
Allowing a servant her independence does not
prevent a mistress from taking a kindly interest
in her affairs, and she must remember, too, that
from the time the girl enters her house until the
hour she leaves it, she is morally, although not
legally, her guardian. It is an exception when a
girl resents being spoken to as a fellow-woman,
and yet some mistresses hesitate to do this
and thus fail to win respect and affection.
Servants should be encouraged to tell their little
ailments, and to say at once when they are not
feehng well. It should be seen that they go
to bed in good time and that they take proper
and sufficient food.
It is especially necessary in the case of a
young servant to exercise this supervision, and
particularly so if she has been brought a long
way from her own home and her own people.
Then it will be the duty of the mistress to ascer-
tain where she is going to spend her time off.
In fact an " evening out " should scarcely be
granted unless she has friends to go to or can
go out with a fellow-servant. An effort should
rather be made to let her go out during the day
until she has made the acquaintance of some
respectable girls with whom she can be trusted.
A word might be said here about servants'
bedrooms. The places in which some maids
are asked to sleep are a disgrace to civilisa-
tion, and not infrequently it is in the houses of
the wealthy that the worst accommodation is
found - underground bedrooms which, besides
being dark and airless, are sometimes damp eind
insanitary as well. For her own sake as well
as theirs a mistress should see that her maids
are provided with proper sleeping quarters, and
each servant mtist have her own bed, a good
mattress, and sufficient covering. The room
itself should be hght and airy, and it must be
cleaned and attended to in the same way as the
other rooms of the house. A servant herself
is not always fastidious and particular about
her room, and will sometimes be lax as regards
the cleaning of it, but none the less we must
see that sufficient tirne is given to clean it and
48
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
that our wishes in this respect are carried out.
There is no reason either why the servants' bed-
room should be the only ugly room in the house -
a place to hang useless pictures and store un-
sightlj' pieces of furniture. A pretty wall-paper
or, better still, a washable distemper of a nice
colour, a nice clean coverlet on the beds, tidy
furniture, &c., is a training in itself and helps
to increase the girl's seK -respect.
And, finally, let us treat our servants with a
spirit of trust and confidence, and we shall
seldom have reason to regret it. For instance, a
too strict locking up of daily necessaries is not
always a good plan, as it shows a lack of con-
fidence which a good servant will often resent,
while a dishonest one will find a way of being
dishonest whatever precautions we may take,
and she is better out of the house. Besides,
for one's own sake, it is bad to live in an atmos-
phere of suspicion and watchfulness. Human
nature is the same all round ; the best in us
responds to trust, and the worst rises to the sur-
fewje if we are constantly being rubbed the
wrong way. Servants, like other people, would
often do better if they were trusted more.
DUTIES OF SERVANTS
In drawing up a scheme of servants' duties
it is not possible to make a plan wliich wiU
suit all requirements, as every household has
its own individual arrangements and no two
are exactly ahke. All that can be done is to
furnish a broad outline of the work which
requires to be done, and the following para-
graphs must be looked upon as suggestive only.
It is to be hoped that they will serve as a guide
to the inexperienced and help them with their
manage until they have gained sufficient know-
ledge to make their own plan.
The amount of work to be done before break-
feist by the different maids must depend upon
the hour of that meal, and if before 8.30 or
9 o'clock some of the duties put down in the
following lists must be delayed until later in
the morning.
There has been little or no provision made for
home washing, but where this is undertaken it
must be looked upon as the special work of the
day and time given for it in accordance with the
amount to be done.
The exact time for doing the various pieces
of work has not been stated, because, as a rule,
it is a bad plan to tie a worker down in this
way and to say that a certain piece of work has
to take a certain time, and so on ; it makes
her grow into a sort of working machine, and
takes away from her all responsibility.
If the servant is active she has no inducement
to work quickly if she finds that her spare
moments are just filled up with more work, and,
on the othor hand, if she is slow it is very dis-
couraging to find that her work is never finished
at the time oxi)ected.
The Cook. - The cook, as her name impUes,
is the one who prepares and cooks the food of
the household. She is the chief servant in the
kitchen, where she reigns supreme.
There are different grades of cooks. First we
have the Professed Cook, who is only found in
lajge estabUshments. In former years a chef
or man cook frequently filled this post, but
women cooks have now come more to the fore,
and a chef is rarely employed in a private
manage. Tlie professed cook has always one
or two maids under her - (kitchen-maid and
scullery-maid) - to whom she assigns the cleaning
of the kitchen premises, the preparation, and
possibly the cooking of vegetables, the cooking
and serving of servants' meals and also nursery
meals if there are such, while she devotes herself
to the higher branches of cookery only, assists
the mistress in drawing up the necessary menus,
and orders the stores required for her department.
She does no cleaning nor housework, but is
waited on by her underUngs.
Then we have the Good Plain Cook, who in
large households, where there are a number of
meals to be served, will undertake all the cooking
that is required and the cleaning of the kitchen
and kitchen premises. Sometimes she will have
the help of a charwoman once a week to do the
heavy cleaning or scrubbing, or that of a
" tweeney," a young girl who divides her time
between the house and the kitchen, working
generally londer the housemaid in the morning
and under the cook from lunch time onwards.
She may or may not undertake the cleaning of
her own bedroom, but beyond that will do no
work in other parts of the house.
And finally we have the Cook-General, who is
usually found in middle-class households, where
only two or three servants are kept. Her
duties extend somewhat beyond the kitchen.
She is expected to take some share in house-
work proper, such as the cleaning of the dining-
room or library, the cleaning of the front hall,
door-step, and brasses, and to give some assist-
ance to the housemaid.
Qualifications Necessary. - There are certain
quaUties necessary to the making of a good
cook, whatever her grade may be. She must
first of all have some knowledge of cookery
more or less extensive according to what is
required of her. She should at least know
thoroughly what she professes, and if it be only
the simplest cookery, it must be good of its kind,
palatable, and nicely served. She must also be
punctual in all her duties, and especially so in
the serving of meals. There is nothing which
upsets the ways of a household so much £is having
meals served at uncertain hours, and for this
the cook is usually responsible.
It is edso important that a cook be clean and
tidy in her work. All the kitchen premises and
utensils should be kept spotlessly clean, and
while cooking is going on there should be tidy-
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
49
ing up and clearing away at the same time.
An untidy and littered kitchen is very dispirit-
ing for other servants, even if the cook herself
does not mind the disorder. No good work
can be done in a muddle ; in fact, the best cooks
make the least mess and use the fewest utensils.
The kitchen should be tidied up after every
meal and made to look as bright and comfort-
able as possible, especially in the afternoon
when the heavy part of the day's work is usually
over.
A cook should also be an early riser. With her
rests the lighting of the kitchen fire, upon which
the hot-water supply for early morning baths,
&c., depends, not to speak of the cooking of the
breakfast. The amount of actual work done
before breakfast will naturally depend upon the
hour at which the meal is served, but unless
an early start is made the cooking of the break-
fast will be hurried and unsatisfactory, the
water will only be tepid, and the rest of the work
will be behindhand all day. The other servants,
too, look to the cook as an example of what is
required in this respect, and if she rises late
the others wiU doubtless follow her lead.
Method and forethought are also valuable
quahties for a cook to possess, as by their practice
the labours of the day can often be considerably
lightened. In cooking so many little things
can be prepared in advance, and if the bill of
faxe is known a day beforehand one day's work
can often be fitted in with another's. Then,
when it comes to the actual cooldng of the meal,
the cook must consider carefully what dish
requires the longest time, and so arrange that
everything is ready at the hour appointed.
Forethought, too, in the ordering of stores and
provisions may save many a worry and bustle
at the last minute. Then, again, in the matter
of breakfast it is often possible to prepare what
has to be cooked the night before, so that if
anything should happen in the morning to make
her a httle late, the first meal may still be
prepared with a calm mind.
And last, but not least, a cook ought to have
consideration for her fellow-servants, and al-
though the kitchen is her domain, there is no
reason why it should ever be a place where
others are afraid to enter, and where she acts as
tyrant. On the contrary, she should do her
best to make the place cosy and comfortable
for them, as it is often their only resting-place
when they have a Uttle leisure to sit down. It
is the cook's duty, too, to see that the kitchen
meals are served properly, and while it is right
that she should have no interference with the
larder, she must pro\'ide a sufficient supply of
well-cooked food and that which has been
ordered bj' the mistress herself. A word of
warning, too, is sometimes required to cooks
who have young servants working under them,
as they are often tempted to put an undue
amount upon tliem, especially of the heavy
work, while she herself does only what requires
Mttle output of strength.
Personal Appearance. - A cook should pay
special attention to her personal appearance,
and specially from the point of view of cleanH-
ness and neatness. Her hair must at all times
be neat and not allowed to come beyond bounds.
There is nothing more revolting than to see a
woman preparing food with her hair hanging
round her head in an untidy fashion, or, what
is worse still, brushing or combing her hair in a
kitchen.
A cook should always try to keep her hands
in good condition, and they must always be
washed before any cooking is commenced.
Gloves should be worn when doing any dirty
work, such as the flues, the grates, and the
cleaning of tins. In winter-time, if the skin
is inclined to become very rough, a little gly-
cerine should be rubbed in occasionally.
A dress of washing material, such as print,
drill, or galatea should be worn in the early peurt
of the day ; in fact, there is a large amount of
cooking to be done in the evening, and as the cook
is not expected to leave her kitchen, it is very
usual for her to remain in her cotton dress.
Or she may if she chooses wear a hght print
dress in the morning, changing to a darker
cotton one in the afternoon. Cotton, being
easily washed, is a much more suitable material
for Idtchen use than any woollen stuS.
The dress must be short enough to clear the
ground by two inches. White linen aprons
with bibs should be worn while cooking, and
these should be furnished with a good-sized
pocket. White hnen sleeves, too, are sometimes
slipped on, but a shorter dress sleeve or one
that can be well rolled up is in many ways
preferable, as the white sleeves to the wrist
become very soon soiled, and in warm weather
are very heating. A strong coarse apron should
be donned while doing the rougher work or
standing at the sink. A neat and simple cap
should also be worn. If the cook has very Uttle
cooking to do in the evening, it is usual for her
to dress in a dark navy blue or black dress, and
to wear a muslin apron hke the other house-
servants. Tidy and comfortable shoes shoiild
be worn at all times.
Duties of the Cook. - It is the duty of the cook
to do all the cooking that is required either
single-handed or with the help of a kitchen-
maid or scullery-maid. Then beyond this her
duties will vary according to the mmaber of
servants kept and the style of living of the
household.
Although it is impossible to draw out a plan
which will suit all cases, the following table of
duties may serve as a guide where the cook takes
a share in the work of the house. In larger
establishments where the cook's ser\'ices are
entirely confined to the kitchen it is very easy
to delete the other duties, and the order of the
50
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
remaining work would continue in very much
the same way.
Duties of the Cook-General. - Rise at six, strip
bed, and leave bodroom airing. Dowiistairs at
6.30. Open up kitchen premises and air where
necessary. Light kitchen fire and clean range.
(If the boiler is not a self-filling one, it should
be filled the night before.) Fill kettles with
water, and if there is anything for breakfeist
which requires long cooking, such as porridge,
put this on to cook before leaving the kitchen
and leave other tilings ready for breakfast as
far as possible.
Then go to dining-room, draw up bUnds and
open windows, clean fire-place and light fire if
necessary. Sweep room with carpet-sweeper,
dust it carefully and fill coal-box. Sweep and
dust hall, clean doorstep and brasses and shake
mats.
Then serve kitchen breakfast and prepare
what is required for the dining-room. Clean
gentlemen's boots and sweep any backstairs or
passages.
Qear away dining-room breakfast things, and
take up crumbs. Wash all or some of the
dishes.
Tidy kitchen and larder, and be ready to
receive mistress. In the forenoon prepare and
cook early dinner or luncheon and prepare late
dinner as far as possible. Dust and tidy cook's
bedroom and commence any special work of the
day.
Answer the front-door bell untU 1 o'clock, wliile
the housemaid is engaged upstairs, and attend
to any messages which come to the back-door.
Serve lunch, then kitchen dinner and wash
up, leaving kitchen tidy. It is usual for the
cook to wash the dinner service used in the
dining-room, although glass and silver are done
by the housemaid. Finish special work of the
day, and dress if there is no late dinner or a very
simple one. Kitchen tea.
Prepare and cook late dinner or supper and
coffee if ordered. Wash up (this can often be
done while the meal is going on, and need not
be a troublesome matter). Ivitchen supper.
Leave everything tidy for the night and fuel
ready for lighting fire in the morning. The back-
door should be locked as soon as it is dark and
windows the last thing before going to bod.
Bed at 10 o'clock.
Special Weekly Duties. - Besides the daily
routine some special cleaning should be under-
taken each day so as to keep all in order.
This might be arranged in somewhat the
following manner : -
.Vo';u/av- Downstairs windows.
rtte^dai/- Backstairs and passages.
Wediiesday- Clean dining-room and hall alternate
weelcs.
77i"r"daj/- Clean tins, brasses.
Frida}/- Larder and cupboards.
.Saturday- Kitchen (flues before breakfast).
Notes. - The above plan prc^iiipposos that the
dining-room breakfast is at 8.30; if eai'Uer some
of the housework must be left until that meal
is over.
It is sometimes customary for the cook-
general to help the housemaid with the beds
except when there are young ladies in the house,
when they generally undertake this piece of work.
The clearing of the breakfast-table and wash-
ing of some of the dishes is also frequently done
by the ladies of the house, especially if the family
is large and only two maids are kept.
The cook-general is often expected to do some
washing, such as all the kitchen towels and
dusters, her o\vn we.shing, and sometimes the
flannel washing as well. When this is the case,
this should be done on Monday or Tuesday and
be regarded as the special work of the day. It
should be started as early in the forenoon as
possible, the cooking being made as simple as
possible that day, and a little extra help might
be given by members of the household.
The cook-general is also expected to take the
housemaid's duties when the latter has her
evening out or her free time.
The Nurse. - See under Section " The Child."
The Housemaid. - A housemaid is employed to
do work about the house and more especially
in the bedrooms and sitting-rooms. This work
will vary according to the number of servants
kept and the style of hving. In larger estab-
lishments where there are many bedrooms and
a constant coming and going of visitors, there
may be several housemaids - an upper house-
maid and two or three under -housemaids. In
this case the upper housemaid would be respon-
sible for and supervise all the work done in the
bedrooms and sitting-rooms, although most of
the actual cleaning and all the rough work would
be undertaken by the junior maids.
The upper housemaid would do the lighter ami
more difficult work in the principal rooms, would
see that the bedrooms were properly prepared
for guests, answer the bedroom bells, and
attend to the wants of the ladies of the house.
Sometimes she is required to act as lady's-
maid to her mistress if there is no special maid
for this purpose. She would take charge of
the bed-linen, giving out the necessary supplies,
and keeping an accurate account of the stock.
She would also take charge of all curtains and
hangings, cushion-covers and table-covers, see
that the suitable articles were in use and all
kept in good order. She might also have time
for some of the mending.
It would be her duty to take early tea and
water into the principal rooms in the morning,
and again give the necessary attendance in these
rooms throughout the day and in the evening.
Some of the locking up at night might also
fall to her share.
The under housemaids would do all the
cleaning proper, such as the sweeping, dusting.
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
51
and scrubbing. The cleaning of the bath-
rooms, lavatories, and housemaids' pantry, the
cleaning of all grates and the Ughting of fires.
If there is a school-room or nursery it would be
the duty of one of them to do all the cleaning
and waiting required in that department. The
junior maid would also have charge of the
servants' bedrooms and back staircase. The
boot cleaning, too, would be shared by the under-
housemaid unless there was a boy or man em-
ployed for the purpose.
In smaller households where only two or three
servants are kept, the housemaid will have to
do the work of the bedrooms single-handed,
and the sitting-rooms are generally divided
between the different maids. She may or may
not have some mending to do ; this will depend
upon the extent of her other duties,
A single housemaid is also expected to give the
parlour-maid some assistance in waiting at table
and ans^^'e^ing of bells, and to take her duties
during off-duty times.
She will also have the cleaning of ladies' and
any childreii's boots.
The House-parlourmaid combines the duties
of housemaid and tablemaid, and, in addition
to her house duties, she will have charge of the
table, i.e. the setting and clearing of the table
for all meals, all the waiting required, and the
washing of the silver, glass, and china. She
should answer all front-door bells after one
o'clock and might have to undertake a Mttle
washing. The cook may or may not give some
assistance -with the housework.
Qualifications Necessary. - A housemaid must
be clean, orderly, and an early riser. Much of
the comfort of the household depends upon
getting a fair amount of cleaning done before
breakfast. She must b, quiet and unobtrusive
in her work and make as little disturbance as
possible with her cleaning. She must be polite
and courteous in her manner and always respect-
ful. She must also be methodical, arranging
her work so that too much does not fall to one
day and not sufficient to others.
Dress and Appearance. - A housemaid should
at all times be neat and tidy in appearance, and
pay particular attention to her hair and the
cleanUness and freshness of her person.
In the morning she should be dressed in a
neat print dress with a plain white apron with
bib, a linen collar, and a simple cap with cambric
frill. A coarser apron may be put on when
doing any rough work, and a pair of gloves
while cleaning the grates. In the afternoon the
cotton dress should be changed for the orthodox
dress of some black woollen material, plainly
made, but neat fitting with tight sleeves and of
a smart walldng length. A muslin apron should
then be worn with a becoming cap and turn-
down collar and cuffs visually fastened with
bows of black ribbons. Quiet shoes should be
worn at all times.
Duties of tlie Housemaid. - (Three maids -
cook, housemaid, and paj-lour-maid.) Rise at
6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave room
airing.
Open up drawing-room or any other sitting-
room under her care, clean fire-place, sweep
and dust room, and light fire if necessary.
Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the
bedrooms and early cups of tea if required.
Prepare baths. Ivitchen breakfast. Clean front
hall and doorsteps unless done by cook, clean
any boots, make her own bed, and tidy bed-
room.
While family are at breakfast go into bed-
rooms, and see that windows are open and beds
left to air. Then empty slops and attend to the
wash-stands. Make beds with the parlour-
maid's help. Dust bedrooms and put them in
order and then do special work of the day.
Kitchen dinner. Dress. In the afternoon
finish off any Ughter pieces of work which are
not dirty, and do mending if required.
Kitchen tea. In the evening take hot water
to the bedrooms half-an-hour before dinner is
served. Draw dowTi blinds, and Ught up at
dark, closing windows if required.
During dinner it is usual for the housemaid to
do the carrying of the dishes from the kitchen
to the dining-room and vice versci, so that the
parlour-maid may never require to leave the
room, and also to give what assistance she
can with the waiting. When dinner is over,
retiim to the bedrooms, empty slops, and give
fresh supply of water, turn down beds and lay
out clothes for the night ; remove any dirty
boots and see that all is in order.
Kitchen supper. Bed at ten o'clock.
Special Weekly Work
Monday- C\ea.n drawing-room and spare bedroom
alternately.
Collect and count washing.
Tuesday- GXe^n two bedrooms.
IFedn€"daj/- Clean servants' bedrooms and housemaid's
pantry.
Thiirsday-Cle&n bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.
jPridai/- Clean library or morning-room and front hall,
unless done by the cook.
Saturday- Yat away linen from washing and make
things generally tidy for Sunday.
Duties of the House-parlourmaid. - (Two maids,
cook general, and house -parlourmaid.) Rise at
6 or 6.30, dress, turn down bed and leave
room to air.
Sweep and dust drawing-room or librarj',
and light fire if required. (The dining-room is
done by the cook.)
Sweep and dust stairs. Take hot water to the
bedrooms and call the family.
Kitchen breakfeist. Lay sitting-room break-
fast and clean boots, serve breakfast. Empty
slops and see that beds are left airing. Ehist
52
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
and tidy own bedroom. Clear brealdast-table
and wash up, vuiloss this is done by the cook.
Make beds with the assistance of the cook or
some member of the family.
Dust and tidy bedrooms and proceed to special
work of the day. Dress by one o'clock. Set
the table and serve lunch or eaaly dinner.
Kitchen dinner. Clear the dining-room table,
take up crumbs and leave room tidy. Wash
up silver and glass and finish any light work.
Answer front -door boll in the afternoon and
evening and indoor bells all day.
Prepare and take in afternoon tea. Kitchen
tea. Wash up afternoon tea things.
Draw down blinds, close windows (if required),
and light up at dusk.
Lay dinner-table and serve dinner. Wait at
table, clear and w£ish up. Serve coffee if
required.
Attend to bedrooms, emptying slops, laying
down beds, and removing any dirty boots.
Ktchen supper. Bod at ten o'clock.
Special Weekly Duties
Monday - Clean drawing-room or spare bedroom alter-
nately.
Collect and count washing.
Tuesday- Clea,n one or two bedrooms.
Wednesday- Clean bath-room, lavatory, and staircase.
r?"ur"iat/- Clean servants' bedroom and pantries
Friday- C1ea.n silver and brasses.
iSafwrdai/- Put away washing and tidy up generally.
The Parlour-maid. - A parlour-maid or table-
maid's chief duty is to look after the table and
see to the serving of all meals. It is a very
important position, and one which would be
filled by a butler in houses where men-servants
were employed.
The parlour -maid takes the sole charge of the
silver, glass, china, and other valuables in daily
use, and is mistress of the pantry. She also has
chsu-ge of the sideboard, the wine, cake, fruit,
&c., and sees that fresh supplies are ordered as
required.
The care of the table-linen will be another of
her duties. She must see that the table is
suflBciently supplied, and that anacciu-ate account
is kept of the stock. The mending, too, might
be done by her if time permitted.
A parlour-maid usually undertakes the cleaning
of one or two sitting-rooms, usually the drawing-
room and one other smaller room as well. She
attends to the sitting-room fires, and lamps and
candles if used.
She answers the front-door boll throughout the
day, unless relieved for part of the time by the
housemaid, and announces all visitors.
She may also be responsible for the floral
decorations of the table and for the arrangement
of lowers and plants throughout the house,
vmlods the mistress herself undertakes this piece
of work.
If there is no man-servant the peu-lour-maid
valets her master, attending to the brushing of
his clothes and the cleaning of his boots. If
there is no lady's-maid she may be called upon
to wash up and do lace and other fine articles
belonging to her mistress and also any fancy
articles, such as d'oyleys and tray-oloths for
table use.
She might also be called upon to assist the
housemaid with bed-making, and would do
housemaid's duties in the latter's off-duty times.
She is usually responsible for the shutting of
the sitting-room windows .\t night and the
front door, unless done by some member of
the family.
Personal Appearance and Requirements. - A
parloior-maid should be tall and elegant in appear-
ance and rather slight, so that she can move
about easily and be graceful in her movements.
The dress, wliich is similar to that worn by the
housemaid, must be neatly made and fit well,
and the apron, collar, cuffs, and cap must always
be spotlessly clean, and especially so when the
maid is waiting at table.
A paxlour-maid should pay particular attention
to her hands, in order to have them nice for
giving attendance to the members of the family,
and her hair should be neatly done without
being too elaborate or fussy in style. She
must be orderly and punctual in all her doings,
and have a thorough knowledge of waiting at
table and other table requirements.
As a parlour-maid comes into such close con-
tact with the family, the post can only be filled
by a woman who is capable and conscientious,
and who has the interests of her master and
mistress at heart. Her manner must be
pleasant and respectful at all times, she must
know how to receive and address people of
refinement, and be able to give in an intelligent
way any information that may be required.
Daily Duties of Parlour- maid. - Rise at 6 or
6.30, according to time of breakfast. Dress,
turn down bed and leave room to air.
Open up sitting-rooms under her charge,
light fires if necessary, and do the sweeping and
dusting. Give any attendance required by the
master of the house and clean his boots.
Ejtchen breakfast. Then set sitting-room
breakfast-table and make toast, tea and coffee
unless done by the cook. Serve breakfast and
wait if required. Finish any work in the sitting-
rooms. Clear breakfast-table, take up crumbs,
and leave room in order. Help housemaid with
bods. (This might be done before the clearing
of the table if breakfast is a very prolonged
meal, but at the same time the beds should be
left sufficient time to air.)
Dust and put in order her own bedroom, un-
less done by the housemaid. Wash up dishes,
including silver. Sec that all cruets are filled
ready for the next meal, also jam and sugar
dishes attended to, and butter rolled or made
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
53
into pats. Attend to the sideboard and see
that the necessary wine is decanted, and that
fruit and cake dishes are clean and tidy. Make
a note of any stores required. Attend to any
floral decorations and water-plants. Attend
to lamps and candles if used in the sitting-
rooms.
Dress by one o'clock, in time to lay luncheon
table. IMake up sitting-room fire, and put
room in order before setting the table. Serve
luncheon and wait as required.
Kitchen dinner. After dinner clear luncheon
from sitting-room table, leave room in order,
and wash up. If time permits, do mending in
the afternoon or a little ironing. Take in after-
noon tea and attend to all visitors. Light
up sitting-rooms at dusk and draw down
blinds.
Kitchen tea. Prepare for dinner, lay table,
and at the appointed time announce the meal
in the drawing-room or sound a bell or gong.
Wait at table either alone or assisted by the
housemaid. Carve if required. Then clear and
wash up. Serve coSee or any other refreshment
that may be required.
Kitchen supper. Bed at ten P.M.
Special Weekly Duties
3/onda2/- Collect and count table linen, wash out towels,
dusters, wash-leathers, &c., and give special
attention to plants.
Tuesday- Clean drawing-room or other sitting-room.
Wednesday- C\ea.n second sitting-room (moming-room
or library) or assist housemaid with special
cleaning.
Thursday- CleSin silver.
Friday- Clesin pantry and her own bedroom, or any
brasses and other ornaments.
Saturday- CoMiit and put away washing, general tidying
up ana preparations for Sunday.
The General Servant. - The general servant is
employed to do the entire work of the house,
except that which is undertaken by the mistress
herself or some other member of the family.
If the household consist of more than two or
thi-ee persons it will be necessary for the mistress
to give a considerable amount of help, if the
work is to be done properly. She may either
do the cooking or the lighter parts of the house-
work, such as dusting, laying the table, washing
of silver and glass, &c. ; this depends entirely
upon her own tastes and inchnations.
Although a general servant cannot be ex-
pected to be an expert in all branches of house-
hold work, she ought to have a good all-round
knowledge and be able to cook simple dishes in
a wholesome and appetising manner.
Her work need not necessarily be harder than
that of another servant who only performs
special duties, but it must be systematically
arranged, and she must be quick and active if
the day's proceedings are to be carried through
in a satisfactory manner. A general servant
is not infrequently looked down upon as holding
an inferior position, a sort of " jack of all trades
and master of none " ; but this entirely depends
upon the maid herself and upon the house in
which she serves. If she does her work well,
she is a most valuable person, and her position,
if conscientiously fiUed, may become one of
trust. If she has the good fortune to be em-
ployed by a kind and considerate mistress, her
life should be a very happy one. She will enter
into much closer relationship with the family
than it is possible to do where there are several
servants, and she will get full credit for all her
work. A good general is always particular
about her personal appearance ; the fact of
being busy should never be an excuse for having
a dirty and dishevelled appearance ; in fact,
this state only denotes a slovenly worker. It
ought also to be a source of pleasiu-e to be
dressed in good time in the afternoon. The
dress should be that worn by any other house
servant, i.e. a nice print dress in the morning,
with a white linen apron, linen collar, and cap,
and a black or dark blue dress in the afternoon
with a muslin apron and more dressy cap. A
coarse apron or overall should always be kept
at hand to sUp on when doing any dirty
work.
Daily Duties. - ^Rise at 6 or 6.30, dress, turn
down bed and leave room to air. Unbolt door,
draw up bhnds and open kitchen and sitting-
room windows. Light kitchen fire and tidy
grate. FiU kettle and put on porridge if re-
qtiired. Clean boots, sweep and dust sitting-
room, lighting fire if necessary. Sweep and
dust hall and clean doorstep and brasses. (If
breakfast is at an early hour this may be left
until later.) Prepare sitting-room breakfast and
have kitchen breakfast.
Empty slops and air bedrooms. Tidy and
dust her own bedroom. Clear breakfast-table,
wash up and tidy kitchen. Take orders for the
day.
Make beds with assistance, dust and tidy bed-
rooms, and sweep and dust stairs. I^epare
early dinner or lunch and do special work for the
day. (If late dinner is the rule, the mid-day
meal should be as simple as possible, and most
of the cooking should be prepared in the
morning.)
Serve lunch and have early dinner. Clear
and wash up. When kitchen has been tidied,
change dress, attend to any light duties in the
afternoon, and serve tea. Attend to all bells
promptly. Serve supper or dinner at the hour
appointed, and do what waiting is required.
Clear and wash up and have kitchen supper.
Light up at dusk, draw down blinds, and close
windows as required. After dinner tvu-n down
beds and attend to the bedrooms. Collect
sticks and coals for the morning. Bed at
ten P.M.
54
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Special Weekly Duties
J/OTuiai/- Wash towels and dusters, &c. (Heavy washing
can scarcely be undertaken unless the maid
is relieved of most of her other work for the
forenooa.)
TuAKfay- Clean drawing-room and dining-room alternate
weeks.
Wednesday- Cle&n bath-room, staircase, and hall.
Thursday- Clean bedrooms.
Friday- Clean pantry, larder, and any back premises,
also siiver and tins alternate weeks.
Saturday- Clean kitchen.
The Housekeeper. - The housekeeper is the
representative of hor mistress, and in large house-
holds she fulfils the duties which naturally fall
to the mistress herself in a smaller manage.
This leaves the lady of the house free to attend
to social and other claims.
The housekeeper is second in command, and
answerable only to the head of the house. She
engages and dismisses servants and pays their
wages - with the exception of the nurse and
lady's-maid - arranges their work, and is respon-
sible in every way for their appearance and
behaviour and the fulfilment of their duties.
The housekeeper is responsible for the proper
keeping of the house in every part, and she
sees to the needs and comfort of the whole family
and domestic staff.
She orders and gives out all stores, keeps
£iccounts, and pays the bills. If there is a butler
he reheves lier of some of those duties, and he is
always responsible for the men-servants.
The hoiosekeeper should see her employer at
stated times in order to give in a report of the
various departments, and also to receive her
instructions and learn her wishes.
The housekeeper has always her own sitting-
room in which her meals are served by one of
the under - maids, except dinner, which she
usually takes with the other servants.
Her sitting-room may be shared by some of
the upper servants, such as the lady's-maid, the
butler, and the valet.
The Butler. - The position of butler is usually
one of great trust. He is head of the men-
servants, is responsible for the work of those
under him, arranges their off-duty time, and
often engages them as well.
He has sole charge of the wine collar, and
gives out the wine required, keeping a note of
the stock, and frequently seeing to the buying
in of supplies.
To his care is confided the silver and otlier
articles of value in daily use.
He is responsible for the arrangement of all
meals and the table appointments. He an-
nounces when meals are ready, puts the dishes
on the table or does the carving, pours out the
wine, and waits assisted by a footman or parlour-
maid.
He is responsible for the care of the billiard-
room and smoking-room or library, and the
fires and lighting arrangements of the other
rooms.
If single-handed, his duties would be very
much the same as those already detailed for the
house-parlourmaid. If there is no valet he
waits upon his master. He also looks after any
carriage or motor rugs and lamps, and in the
country would be responsible for shooting and
picnic lunches.
When there is no housekeeper the butler
frequently pays the bills and does the marketing.
He usually goes out every day.
The butler is also responsible for the shutting
up of the house.
In the early part of the day his dress should
be dark trousers and waistcoat and black tail
coat, with a white front and collar and black tie
- in the evening the regulation dress suit with a
white tie.
The Footman. - The footman is generally an
all-round useful man and his duties may be
very varied. If there is a butler, he would
work under him, but in houses where he is the
only man-servant his duties might be somewhat
after the following : -
He would clean boots and shoes, knives and
windows, fetch coal and see to the filling of
coal-scuttles and the keeping up of fires.
He would lay the table and wait, assisted by
a parlour-maid or housemaid, and wash up the
silver, glass, and china after each meal.
He would valet his master and go out with the
carriage if required, attending to any rugs.
The charge of lamps and window - plants
would also fall to his share. He would answer
bells, announce visitors, and take in afternoon
tea.
He would also be responsible for the locking
up of the house at night.
A footman may or may not wear livery. If
this is not supplied it is usual to give two suits
in the year, either new or from Ms master's
wardrobe.
The Lady's - maid. - Tlie lady's - maid devotes
herself to the personal requirements of her
mistress and looks after her needs in every
way.
She undertakes the charge of her wardrobe
and sees that all her belongings are kept in
good order and proper repair.
She assists her mistress v.'ith her toilet, helps
her to dress and undress, brushes and dresses
her hair, selects and lays out the clothes she is
going to wear.
She does any packing and unpacking and
travels with her mistress when required.
She requires a bedroom for herself, which is
sometimes fitted as a bed-sitting-room, where
she can do her sewing and other work.
She will keep her own and her mistress's
room in order, do the dusting, and make the
beds with some assistance ; but she will not
be expected to clean grates nor do any hard
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
55
cleaiiijig, and she will take no part in general
housework.
If well filled the post of lady's-maid is no
sinecure, as a varied knowledge is necessary to
do all that is required. A woman who under-
takes this work inust be able to sew well in
order that she may both make and mend neatly.
She must also have some knowledge of dress-
making and millinery so as to be able to alter and
renovate, to change the style of an evening dress,
to make a tasteful bow, retrim a hat or bonnet,
or give the necessary finishing touches to a
lady's toilet. She must be a woman of taste,
and be able to give advice as to the choice of
dresses, &c.
She ought to know enough laundry work to
enable her to wash and do up laces and silks and
musUn, wash shawls and feather boas, and other
fancy articles.
She must be a good hair-dresser, and if a
fashionable coiffure is required, it is a good plan
to take a lesson occasionally from a first-class
hairdresser in order to learn the newest
modes.
If she travels with her mistress a knowledge
of languages, especially French, is invaluable,
and she should know how to make travelling
arrangements, see to tickets and luggage, and
be responsible for the exchange of money.
A lady's-maid wears no uniform, but ought
to be quietly and neatly dressed when in attend-
ance on her mistress.
Her manner must be pleasant and respectful,
and she must know how to exercise self-control.
As she comes into such close contact with the
private life of her mistress, it is her duty to give
her faithful and loyal service as long as she
remains in her employment.
The Valet. - The valet attends to the personal
wants of his master just as the lady's-maid waits
upon her mistress. He helps him with his
dressing, and takes fxill charge of his wardrobe,
brushes his clothes, cleans his boots, and attends
to any repairs.
He sees that his master's wash-stand and
toilet-table are supplied with the necessary
requisites, and is responsible for all his belongings
being kept in order and in the proper place.
He must know how to pack and unpack, and
if he travels with his master he must know how
to make all arrangements, take tickets, and see
to luggage, &c.
The valet is sometimes expected to give
assistance in waiting at table.
The Laundry-maid. - The laundry-maid is re-
sponsible for the washing and dressing of the
household linen.
She will have full charge of the laundry, seeing
that it is kept clean and in perfect order. Slie
will also be responsible for all the Unen con-
fided to her care.
If the family is not large, she may be expected
to take part in some of the housework as well.
(For fuller details of her duties see Guide to
Laundry Work, p. 271.)
The Scullery-maid. - The scullery-maid ranks
lowest amongst the kitchen servants, and if there
is a kitchen-maid she works under her.
A scullery-maid is employed primarily for
cleaning all the dishes and utensils used in the
kitchen ; she washes the kitchen floors and does
the scrubbing. She will assist with the pre-
paration of vegetables and be responsible for
the keeping up of the kitchen fire.
If there is no kitchen-maid, the scullery-
maid will assist the cook and work under her
direction.
Although the work may be somewhat labori-
ous, it is a good beginning for a young girl who
aspires to be cook, and if she is quick and willing
she may learn a great deal, and gradually rise
to a better position.
The Kitchen-maid. - A kitchen-maid is em-
ployed to work under a cook, to be her apprentice
as it were. She is responsible for many of the
plainer dishes, thus leaving the cook free for
more important duties. She prepares and
serves the kitchen meals, and also cooks for
the mu-sery and school-rooin if required.
If there is no scullery-maid, the kitchen-maid
will also undertake the cleaning of the kitchen
utensils, the kitchen stove, and some of the
kitchen premises.
Provided a kitchen-maid serves under a good
cook, this is the best way for her to learn the
art of cooking.
The Tweeny. - This is a title given to a young
girl who divides her time between the house and
the kitchen. In the forenoon she may work
under the housemaid or the nurse and do the
housework, and from lunch time onwards assist
the cook. She does all the odd jobs and must
be ready to make herself generally useful.
The Hall Boy. - The hall boy or boy in buttons
is sometimes kept in place of a single man-
servant, and if clever and wilhng he may
be an extremely useful member of the house-
hold.
He wiU be found of special value in the house
of a professional man, such as a doctor or
dentist, where there is much answering of bella
required, and perhaps running of messages as
well.
A capable boy will soon learn to clean knives,
boots, and windows, to fill coal-scuttles and
look after fires. He will also be able to set
the table, do some waiting and most of the
wasliing up.
The boy in buttons must be provided with
clothes ; a Uvery suit of some dark cloth,
navy serge, dark green, or dark crimson with
the coat buttoning to the neck, and for
doing cleaning or rough work he should
have a cotton jacket of dark blue or striped
drill or strong hoUand and some good stout
aprons.
56
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
HOUSEKEEPING WITHOUT A SERVANT
In these days of flat life, when accommodation
for housing a ser\'ant is very limited, it is often
found more convenient to do without one
altogether, or to manage with eitlier daily help
or the ser\nces of a thoroughly competent
worker once or twice a week.
It ought to be quite possible for a newly
married lady to undertake the work of a small
flat with perhaps the occasional help of a char-
woman, and to have time for other interests as
well. Or if, as is often the case, two sisters or
two friends live together, the work should be
all the more easy to manage, as each can take
her share of the household duties.
Some knowledge of housekeeping is, however,
necessary for the successful management of a
" no servant " manage, and if one is entirely
ignorant of the ways of doing things, it should
scarcely be attempted unless absolutely necessary,
as the results are not likely to be satisfactory.
Good health is also a sine qua non, although
no great phj^sical strength is required ; so much
is done nowadays to make the work of a house
simple, and especially the work in a flat. There
are no stairs nor front door -step to keep in order,
the cooking and water heating can be done by
gaa, and all provisions, &c., can be brought to
the very door without the trouble of going up
and down stairs. Yet with aU the conveniences
possible, success in the undertaking will depend
to a large extent upon the order and method
displayed in its organisation. The work must
be planned carefully, or one will either be in a
constant muddle, or be continually at it, and
have time for nothing beyond the daily round of
house duties.
To begin with, the woman who does her own
work must dress suitably when performing her
household duties - a short sldrt, a cotton or
other washing blouse, and a big apron or overall
is the most suitable attire ; or a complete wash-
ing dress might be worn if the weather is warm.
A large overall to slip on over a good afternoon
dress will also bo found useful.
It will be well also to seciure as many labour-
saving apparatus aa possible, such as gas-cooker,
carpet-sweeper, knife-cleaner, mop for washing
dishes, &c.
Care.too, must be taken of the hands. Because
a woman is her own maid-of-all-work this is no
excuse for her being careless in this respect.
Gloves should be worn as much as possible, and
after doing washing up the hands should be well
dried and a few drops of glycerine and rose-
water should be rubbed into the skin.
Do not commence by doing too much before
breakfast. Unless one has been accustomed to
early rising it is apt to knock one up for the rest
of the day without any reason. Do not attempt
to light fires and clean out a sitting-room before
a meal has been taken. Sometimes it may be
possible to prepare a certain amount the night
before, and in any case there should be a small
gas or even an oil-stove upon which the morning
meal can be prepared. If the sitting-room has
not a stove which can be lit without much
trouble, there is no reason why the kitchen should
not be pretty enough and tidy enough for the
first meal to be taken there.
On rising in the morning put on a large kettle
of water. If there is porridge for breakfast this
should have been soaked over-night in a double
cooker. Put a light under this also. Then
dress, and when ready let breakfast have the
first attention, talcing time to have this meal
leism-ely and in comfort. Next collect the
dishes and clear the table, and either put the
dishes to one side while the bedrooms and
sitting-room are being done, or wash them up
straight away.
The sitting-room should be done next, as it
will be as well to let the bedrooms air as long as
possible. If a fire has to be laid, do this with
order and method. Go over the floor with a
carpet-sweeper, then dust every part and leave
the window open. Next turn yovu- attention
to the bedrooms, put these in order, and then
sweep and dust the passage. Now return to
the kitchen, wash up all the dishes, and sweep
and dust. If breakfast has not been very late,
all the cleaning should be finished by eleven
o'clock, unless some special work has to be done,
such as the thorough cleaning of a room, silver,
brasses, work this could also be fitted in.
The cooking for the day should now be thought
of, and although it is alwaj's possible to have
meals at a restaurant, or to order various dishes
from a caterer's, it must be remembered that
this is an expensive way of living, and with the
necessary knowledge of cookery it should be
quite possible to have dainty little meals at
home, and so feed well with very little trouble.
The woman who does her own work will not
require to spend much time considering what is
in her larder ; she will no doubt have arranged
in her own mind what the different meals have
to be whilst doing her other work. All the
cookery required should either be done in the
morning or at least prepared as far as possible,
so that what must be left for the evening will take
very little time to get ready when required.
Light utensils should be used, such as aliuninium,
enamelled tin, or earthenware saucepans, as they
are easier to handle and keep in order. One or
two steamers would also be invaluable, as so
much cooking can be done in these -nathout
trouble and attention.
After the mid-day meal it is a good plan to
rest, even if only for half-an-hoiu", and then, after
dressing, one ought to feel quite fresh to go out
and turn one's thoughts in a different channel.
The afternoon should be free from household
MISTRESS AND SERVANTS
57
If the evening meal has been prepared in the
morning it will not take long to get it ready, and
haK-an-hour as an ordinary rule should be
sufficient. Then if washing up in the evening
is found awkward, there is no occasion to do
more than the silver, which it is never wise to
leave, and the other dishes, if they are not re-
quired in the morning, could be packed up and
washed with the breakfast dishes.
Marketing. - The time for doing this will
depend upon circumstances, and need not be
rigidly fixed. If it is inconvenient to go out in
the mornmg in the midst of the other work it
may be possible to order in the afternoon for
the following day, or another way is to arrange
for the tradesmen to call, and for everything to
be brought to the door at a certain time.
Outside Help. - This may be obtained either
daily or once or twice a week, according to
circumstances and individual needs. If a
young girl is engaged to come in for an hour or
two every morning, she might do the washing \ip,
prepare the vegetables, and attend to the other
kitchen work, also clean the boots and stoves
and assist with the rooms as well. Many prefer,
however, to have more competent help even if
it is not so often. A good worker for half a day
could do all the hard cleaning, including the
stoves, scrubbing of the kitchen, and thoroughly
clean one or two rooms each visit. If the rooms
can be prepared for her, and any ornaments and
other trifles dusted and afterwards arranged, it
will be a great saving of time, and in this way
half the rooms could be cleaned one week, and
the other half the next.
Advantages. - Besides the actual saving of
board and wages of an indoor servant there will
be a feeling of independence. It will be possible
to leave home for a day or a week without any
need for worrying about the house. There will
also be freedom from that feeling of close
proximity to a servant which is impossible to
avoid in a flat, and which destroys the sense of
Hberty which is essential to the happiness of
both parties.
Warning. - ^It must be remembered that house-
work must not crowd out everything else ; one
mvist have time to read a little, rest a little, and
keep in touch with the outside world as welL
The economy that saves money at the expense
of health and the capabihty of enjojrment is in
reality one of the worst extravagances.
Another point is that the housekeeper must
remember to feed herself. If the mid-day meal
is taken alone, she is only too apt to make it as
meagre as possible to save trouble, and also to
take it too qiiickly, whereas time would be well
spent in eating something reaUy nutritious, and
if the quantity is small the quality should be
all the more carefully considered.
One must also learn to do without many
things, and not expect to live in the same style
as those who have plenty of servants at their
command, but this can quite well be done with-
out falling into a slovenly way of living and
losing any of the refinement of life.
WAGES TABLE
Giving the rates per Month, Week, and Day of Yearly Incomes from £10 to £50
Year.
Month
Week.
Day.
Year.
Month.
Week.
Day.
£ 8.
d.
£
s.
d.
£
8.
d.
£
s.
d.
£
B. d.
£
6.
d.
£
s.
d.
£
8. d.
10 0
0
0
16
8
0
3
m
0
0
H
17
0 0
8
4
0
6
6^
0
0 Hi
10 10
0
0
17
6
0
4
Oh
0
0
7
17
10 0
9
2
0
6
Si
0
0 lU
11 0
0
0
18
4
0
4
2|
0
0
n
17
17 0
9
9
0
6
101
0
0 llf
11 10
0
0
19
2
0
4
5
0
0
n
18
0 0
10
0
0
6
11
0
0 llj
11 11
0
0
19
3
0
4
5i
0
0
u
18
10 0
10
10
0
7
H
0
1 Oi
12 0
0
0
0
0
4
n
0
0
8
18
18 0
11
6
0
7
3i
0
1 Oi
12 10
0
0
10
0
4
n
0
0
8i
19
0 0
11
8
0
7
3*
0
1 o|
12 12
0
1
0
0
4
m
0
0
8h
19
10 0
^
12
6
0
7
6
0
1 0|
13 0
0
1
8
0
5
0
0
0
8|
19
19 0
13
3
0
7
8
0
1 1
13 10
0
2
6
0
5
2i
0
0
9
20
0 0
13
4
0
7
H
0
1 u
13 13
0
2
9
0
5
3
0
0
9
21
0 0
15
0
0
8
1
0
1 If
14 0
0
3
4
0
5
4i
0
0
n
22
0 0
16
8
0
8
5i
0
1 2J
14 10
0
4
2
0
5
7
0
0
9|
23
0 0
18
4
0
8
m
0
1 3
14 14
0
4
6
0
5
n
0
0
9J
24
0 0
2
0
0
0
9
2i
0
1 3|
15 0
0
5
0
0
5
n
0
0
n
25
0 0
2
1
8
0
9
H
0
1 4^
15 10
0
5
10
0
5
Hi
0
0
m
30
0 0
2
10
0
0
11
6J
0
1 7|
15 15
0
6
3
0
6
0|
0
0
m
35
0 0
2
18
4
0
13
5i
0
1 11
16 0
0
6
8
0
6
If
0
0
10*
40
0 0
3
6
8
0
15
4i
0
2 2J
16 10
0
7
6
0
6
H
0
0
io|
45
0 0
3
15
0
0
17
3|
0
2 5i
16 16
0
8
0
0
6
H
0
0
11
50
0 0
4
3
4
0
19
2f
0
2 9
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
The object of the foUowing pages is to furnish the housewife with directions for the performance
of such details of household work as ai-e not dealt with under special headings.
The directions are the result of many years practical experience of everything pertaining to
household management. ^ o x- e
The various details of household work are dealt with separately under their own headings, and
the many useful hints with regard to cleaning, &c., are the result of actual test
It 13 hoped that the information given wiU afford valuable help to the harassed housewife in
the little difficulties which are continually cropping up in the course of daily duties. If it does
this the imssion of this section of the book will be abundantly fulfilled.
THE CLEANING OF ROOMS
Before beginning to clean a room of any kind
it is very important that everything required for
the work should be collected together, so that
there need be no unnecessary running about to
seek for tliis or that duster or brush. So first
consider what has to be cleaned, and then take
with you the necessary implements, seeing that
everything is in order for the work to be carried
out satisfactorily and systematically, with the
least possible waste of time.
TO CLEAN AND TIDY A BEDROOM
Dally Work.- First draw up the blinds as far
as they will go, being careful to keep them
straight, and open the windows top and bottom.
Then turn down the bed and spread out any
night garments on a chair. Allow the room to
au- for an hour at lea^t before the bed is made.
During this time the slops may be emptied,
towels hung up evenly, and any clothing or
other articles left lying about the room put
away in theu- places. It is always better if
two people can make the bed. When this is
neatly finished, fold up the night-dress or
sleeping-suit, put it in a neat case, and lay it on
the bed just beneath the pillow.
If there has been a fire in the room attend to
the grate next, being careful to make as little
dust as possible.
It will not be necessary to sweep the room
every day, but the floor must be gone over
with a short brush and shovel or with a carpet-
sweeper, so as to take up any pieces or surface I
dust. Be careful too that all fluff is removed
from underneath the bed. Some people prefer '
to have the carpet wiped over with a slightly
damp cloth or leather.
Then dust the room. Commence at one corner
ss
and go steadily round, dusting each article until
every part has been done. Pay particidar at-
tention to the toilet table. Lift each article
and diist underneath it, arranging everything
with order and taste.
If the edges of the floor are pohshed or covered
with hnoleum, rub them round with a shghtly
damp duster, or, better still, with the flannel or
cloth which has been used to rub up a polished
floor. The latter will have the remains of a
httle wax upon it, and will keep the floor in good
condition.
If a candlestick has been used, see that this is
in order, putting in a fresh candle if required,
and removing any old matches.
Finally fill up the ewer and water-jug with
fresh cold water, and lower the blinds and
windows a httle if desired. Look round the
room to see that everything is in order and
that no duster or brush is being left beliind, and
close the door quietly on leaving.
Weekly or Thorough Cleaning.- Once a week,
or at least once a fortnight, a bedroom will
require a more thorough cleaning if it is in
constant use.
After the slops have been emptied, the bed-
room ware and any gas globes should be carried
away to a bathroom or housemaid's pantry,
where they can be washed. If this is not con-
venient, they must be covered over and washed
afterwards in the room.
Before making the bed, brush the mattress on
both sides and well round the edges, as this is
one of the best means of keeping away moths;
Dust also the bedstead under the mattress and
then make the bed, but do not put on the top
cover ; this is better kept off until the cleaning
is finished. Tuck up the valance all round, if
there is one, and brush and pin back any
curtains out of the way.
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
69
Next lay some sheets of clean paper or a large
towel on the top of the bed. Dust all ornaments
(keeping aside any that may require washing)
and other small articles, and lay them on the top
of the bed over the paper, or towel. Shake and
fold up the toilet cover, and all table-cloths
and towels ; shake and remove any short
window-blinds, and lay these also on the bed.
Cover all with a large dust-sheet, which will
hang well over the sides.
Dust and remove from the room as many as
possible of the small articles of furniture, and
cover over what is left with dust-sheets or old
newspapers. If any of the chairs are up-
holstered, these should be brushed with a
furniture brush before being covered. All
clothing must be taken down from the back of
doors and kept out of the room or under cover.
Roll up all rugs or n^ats, and take them out-
side to be beaten later on. If this cannot be
done they must be brushed with a short brush
in the room and then removed.
If there has been a fire in the rooim, remove
all the cinders and dost, but do not pohsh the
grate until the room has been swept. Next
close all windows and doors, and see that drawers
too are shut.
Sprinkle the carpet with tea-leaves or bran,
and sweep it thoroughly. When the dust has
all been collected in a shovel, the window should
be thrown open and the room left for a httle
while to allow the dust to settle.
Meanwhile the dust in the dust-pan should be
taken away and burnt at once. K left lying
about it is very apt to be knocked over and the
contents perhaps scattered around. The articles
that have been outside can also have attention.
The rugs should be brushed or beaten outside
and carried back in readiness to be laid down,
the ware in the batliroom washed, and the
small fxirniture rubbed up.
Then return to the room and finish off the
fireplace, using a hearth- cloth.
Roll up the dust-sheets, which should after-
wards be shaken in the open air. One word
about dust-sheets - too often these are used
vmtil they reach such a dirty state as to be
rendered almost useless. They should be
washed whenever necessary.
Tlie dusting may now be commenced. First
mount a pair of steps, dusting all out-of-
reach places, such as bhnds, curtain poles,
inside of windows, pictures, top of wardrobe
and door, &c. Then dust and polish, if neces-
sary, the furniture that remains in the room ; also
dust round the skirting board, panels of doors
and floor where it is uncarpeted.
When the dust has as far as possible been
removed from the room, it is time to do any
necessary washing. Wash the top of the wash-
stand if it is marble, the tiles round the fire-
place, the window ledges if they require it, and
any finger-marks off doors. The windows and
mirrors too if they require special cleaning
should now have attention. Also finish off the
edges of the floor in a suitable manner, accord-
ing to whether they aie hnoleum, varnish, or
matting.
Now put back in their places the articles which
were laid on the bed, let down the bed valance,
and put the bed in order.
Then bring back the things from outside and
arrange everything in order. Supply the wash-
stand with fresh water and new soap if required.
Spare Bedrooms. - These will not require to be
cleaned so often as the rooms that are in con-
stant use. If they are aired and dusted regularly
they ought to keep in good order without being
tm-ned out more than perhaps once a month. Of
course, this depends a good deal upon the locaUty
in wliich a house is situated. A room in a
smoky city will requii-e much more cleaning
than one in a fresh country district.
Note. - For details of the various operations,
see under special headings.
TO CLEAN A SITTING-ROOM
The order and method for this is very much
the same as for a bedroom, except of coiirse
there is not the bed and wash-stand to attend
to.
Daily Work. - Draw up the blinds and open
the window. Remove any table-covers, shake
them and fold them up, and roll up the rugs
(sometimes tliis is done over-night).
If there has been a fire in the room, attend to
that first. Lay down the hearth-cloth before
commencing, and finish off the grat" com-
pletely.
Then with a dust-pan and short brush - or,
better stiU, with a carpet-sweeper - go over the
floor, taking up any crumbs and pieces and ail
siu-face dust. Be careful to make 6is httle dust
as possible. Lay down the rugs and brush them
over also.
Tlien take away the dust and burn it at once,
also the contents of the waste- paper basket.
Next dust the room ceirefully, commencing at
one corner and going steadily round.
If there is a poUshed or hnoleum surround
to the carpet, wipe this round with a slightly
damp duster and then with a dry one. Dust at
the same time the sku*ting-boards. Replace the
table-covers, and see that cushions, books, &c.,
are all in order.
To " Thorough-Clean " a Sitting-room. - A room
that is in constant use will require to be cleaned
more thoroughly once a week. A drawing-
room or room that is only used occasionally will
not require it so often. The mistress of the house
must decide for herself how often it is necessary
to turn it out.
To Prepare the Room. - First remove all plants
and flowers, and these sliould be attended to and
60
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
arranged outside before they are brought back
into the room.
Pull up the blinds as far as they will go.
Shake or brush the curtains, and pin them high
up out of the way. Remove any short window-
curtains, shake them and fold them up.
Then dust thorougWy all ornaments, odd
books, music, &c., and cither remove them from
the room or cover them over on a table or side-
board inside.
Dust also and remove, if possible, all small
articles of furniture.
Roll up all rugs, and have them taken out of
doors to be shaken or beaten later on.
Take off all table-cloths and antimacassars,
shake them and fold them up. Boat all cusliions,
but not too roughly, and then cover all these
small things with a dust-sheet.
Upholstered furniture and footstools should
be brushed, and all furniture which cannot
be removed should be covered over with large
clean dust-sheets.
To Clean the Room. - Follow the same order
for sweeping, dusting, and doing the grate as for
a bedroom. (See 59.)
After sweeping, and while the dust is settling,
the things outside should be seen to. Rugs
should be shaken, dirty ornaments and glass
globes washed or cleaned, and any necessary
polishing done.
After the inside dusting is done, put back the
furniture in its place, and put on table-cloths and
antimacassars. Bring back all ornaments, &c.,
take down the curtains and see that all is in order.
Finally replace any plants and flower decora-
tions.
CLEANING OF HALL AND STAIRCASE
Before commencing to clean these, close all
doors leading into them. Take up all mats and
have them shaken outside the house. In
houses where there is much going up and down
stairs the latter will require to be swept down
daily, but with a quiet household it may be
sufficient to sweep them two or three times a
week, and to simply dust them on the other days.
Begin at the top landing and work down-
wards. If there is a long stretch of landing
on any of the floors, this should be swept with a
long broom or carpet-sweeper instead of the
short brush, as it will save unnecessary kneeling.
To sweep the stairs, take a banister or stair-
brush and a dust-pan. A double brush, with
bristles on one side and hair on the other, is the
most convenient for the purpose. Sweep the
top and front of each step, catching the dust in
the dust-pan. Use the bristle side of the brush
for the carpet and the soft hair side for the paint
or varnish.
When the bottom of the stair is reached take
the dust away at once and have it burnt ; if left
lying in the dust-pan it is very liable to be
knocked over and spilt. And here a word of
warning may be given about the danger of leav-
ing cleaning materials on a stair ; most serious
accidents have happened owing to carelessness in
this respect.
Allow the dust to settle before doing the
dusting. Stairs and banisters will require to be
dusted thoroughly every daj', and each banister
rail should be done separately.
The varnished or painted sides of stair and
landing should be wiped first with a slightly
damp rubber, as this will prevent the dust flying
about, and then poUshed with a dry one.
Doors, door-handles, and window ledges must
also liave attention. Lay down the mats last
of aU.
Weekly Cleaning, - Once a week the stairs will
require a more thorough cleaning.
When sweeping the steps, pull out the ends of
the rods and sweep away the dust from under-
neath. The banisters too, if they are of wood,
should be carefully brushed. If made of painted
iron, they may be washed after the sweeping is
finished with a wash leather wrung out of warm
water and a very httle soap. Care itiust be
taken to wring the leather rather firmly, so as to
prevent drops of water falling on the steps.
After the stairs have been thoroughly swept,
and while the dust is settUng, the rods may be
cleaned. While doing this an old newspaper
or large duster should be laid on the steps to
protect the carpet, and not more than one or two
rods must be taken out at one time.
Then after the steps and banisters have been
carefully dusted, polish the hand-rail with a
little furniture pohsh and the sides of the stairs
and landing with floor polish, or bees' -wax and
turpentine. If of varnished wood, or if of
enamelled white paint, wash them carefully with
a little plain soap and water, and rub up with a
dry cloth.
A stair carpet will require lifting more fre-
quently than other carpets ; twice a year at
least, and oftener, if there is much going up and
down. When the carpet is up, the stops should
be well scrubbed with a little carbohc soap before
it is relaid.
If there is a linen drugget over the stair
carpet, this should be lifted frequently. Poll it
up as gently as possible so £is not to disturb the
dust. Then have it taken out of doors, well
brushed and rubbed over with a damp cloth.
The carpet underneath should be well brushed
before laying it down again. Change the position
of the drugget a little each time it is relaid, so as
to ensure equal wear.
To Clean the Hall. - The rugs having been re-
moved, sweep the floor carefully, keeping the dust
down as much as possible. Take the dust up in
a dust-pan and have it burnt. Then allow the
dust that has risen to settle, and dust all the
furniture, skirting- boards and doors. If the
hall is tiled or covered with linoleum, it ought
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
61
to be washed once or twice a week, or as often aa
necessary.
The hall mats should be shaken or beaten out-
side the back-door if possible, and they must not
be relaid until the floor is dry. The door-steps
must be washed every day (see p. 73), and as
early in the morning as possible. If there is not
time for much work before breakfast, then the
steps can be done first and the hall left until
later in the day. Empty the scraper, and black-
lead it brightly. Polish all brass door-handles
and plates ; those inside once a week and those
outside every day.
Once a week the furniture in the hall should
be well rubbed up, all brass or other ornaments
cleaned, gas globes washed, gas bracket dusted,
and any windows and mirrors cleaned.
Note. - For details of the various operations,
see under special headings.
THE BATHROOM AND LAVATORY
To Clean Baths. - All baths should be thor-
oughly well rinsed and wiped out after having
been used. If the soapy scum which rises on
the top of the water is allowed to he on them,
they will be found much more difficult to clean.
Enamelled Baths. - Empty or run out all the
soapy water, and then let in some clean warm
water. Take a flannel or soft brush and
wash the sides and all over with this, using a
little soft soap, or Sunlight soap if necessary ;
but if the bath is in constant use this will not
likely be required every day. If the enamel
becomes stained or discoloured, dip the flannel
in a little dry salt before applying it. Rinse
with clean warm water if soap has been used,
and then dry rith a cloth. This treatment
should be sufficient to keep the bath in order,
but if the enamel becomes very dirty use a
little Sapolio along with the ordinary soap.
Care must always be taken not to roughen the
surface of the enamel, because if once the poUsh
is spoilt it is much more difficult to keep it in
order.
A Porcelain Bath can be treated in the same
way as above, but Brooke's soap may be used
instead of Sapolio if the ordinary soap and
water is not sufficient to make it clean.
A Zinc Bath is a little more difficxilt to keep
in order. It should be washed out as above,
and, if much soiled, rubbed with a mixture of
soft soap and Brooke's soap. Shred down some
Brooke's soap and mix it In a saucer with some
soft soap. Apply this to the bath with a flannel,
rubbing it well in, rinse and dry thoroughly.
Fine bath-brick dust mixed with a little paraffin
is also an excellent thing for cleaning zinc, but
it requires a lot of rinsing to get rid of the
smell.
The Water-closet Pan. - This should be well
flushed out with water every day and brushed
round with a special brush, which is kept for
9i
this purpose only. Then once a week at least
a good pailful of hot soda-water should be
poured in and the brush used again.
If the pan has become discoloinred or a coating
of fiir collected on the sides, empty out as much
of the cold water as possible and scrub it well
with sand and soft soap, or use a little coarse
salt. If this is not sufficient to bring it into
good condition, dissolve a penny-
worth of spirits of salt in one quart
of boiling water ; pour this into
the pan and allow it to remain
there for a short time. Then
brush round vigorously and rinse.
Care must be taken that the
mixture does not touch the hands,
as it is very poisonous and liable
to burn.
The lavatory brush should, if
possible, be hung on a nail out-
side the window. Each lavatory
should also be pro\aded with a
towel hung on to a nail by a
loop.
It is very important that no
rubbish be put down the lavatory,
such as bmrnt matches, hair com-
bings, faded flowers, pieces of
orange peel, &c. It must be
remembered that the pipes are
usually made with a bend, and
such articles would be Ukely to obstruct them.
Young servants shovild always be warned against
throwing any scraps they find in the bedrooms
into the slop-pail.
The window of the lavatory shoiild always
be kept open and the door shut.
The Lavatory Basin. - If this is emptied im-
mediately after use and rinsed with a little cold
water, it will be easily kept in order. It is
when dirty soapy water is allowed to remain
in the basin that it becomes more difficult to
clean. When necessEiry wash with hot water,
soap, and a brush, using a little Brooke's soap
or Sapolio if required for any stains ; rinse with
cold water and dry with a cloth. Every day
the taps ought to be dried and rubbed with a
duster, and twice a week at least they sho\ild be
polished with a little metal polish to keep them
bright and shining.
CARE OF CARPETS AND RUGS
To Sweep a Carpet. - In these days of carpet-
sweepers and suction dust-lifters much of the
old-fashioned hand -switching has been done
away with. A carpet-sweeper is now to be seen
in almost every house, and it is certainly an
immense saving of labour. The price varies
from 10s. 6d. upwards. It is quick and simple,
and takes up the dust where it lies instead of
raising it to float about the room in an un-
hygienic way. It must be rolled across the
62
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
carpet with even strokes, and there is no occa-
sion to press too heavily. Care must be taken
not to use it near heavj' furniture, so as to avoid
knocking it, and a brush will always be required
as well to brush all corners and places where
Carpet-Sweeper.
the sweeper cannot reach. The sweeper must
bo emptied each day after use, and any fluff,
hairs, or thread ends removed from the brushes.
If attention is not paid to this the sweeper will
very soon become clogged and out of order.
\V1ieu cleaning a carpet which has a thick pile,
such as an Axminster, it is better to use a brush
in preference to a sweeper, as the rollers on the
latter are liable to leave marks on the soft
surface.
Patent suction diist-lifters or vacuum cleaners
are also coming into use, but the really practical
ones are still much too expensive for the ordinary
private house.
When none of these patent cleaners are avail-
able, then a carpet must be swept. It will
not be necessary to sweep it with a hard broom
every day ; it will be sufficient
/''~\^ just to go over it with a short-
^ \ handled brush and dust-pan,
taking up any pieces or smface
dust. Then once a week, or once
a fortnight, according to how
much the room is used, the carpet
must be brushed more thoroughly.
Cover up or remove as much of
the furniture as possible. Shut
down windows and close all doors
before beginning to brush. Then
sprinkle the floor all over with
one of the following : clean bran
slightly moistened, tea - leaves
which have been washed and
drained and mixed with a little
coarse salt, or cabbage blades
shred and mixed with coarse salt.
Any of these will prevent the dust
from flying about the room un-
necessarily and also help to freshen the carpet.
Thf n take a carpet broom or switch and brush
all o\ er the floor with short sharp strokes. Com-
mence at one of the corners and work methodi-
cally, sweeping all the dust towards the fli'oplace
short-handled
Brush.
or door. Sweep in such a direction as to flatten
the pile, or tlie cau-pet will have a rough appear-
ance and be apt to collect dust. The brush
ought to be turned occasionally so as to wear it
equally. The dust must be kept together sis
much &s possible and not sent flying over the
room. When brushing a tliick pile carpet, such
as an Axminster or Turkey, be particular to
brush the way of the pile, or the dust will only
be swept into it. Collect all the dust together
in a heap, brush into a shovel and take it away
to be burnt. Then open the window, and leave
the room for a short time before doing any
dusting.
To Revive the Colour. - If the carpet is old and
somewhat faded, tlie colour may be somewhat
revived by washing it over with a flannel wrung
out of ammonia and water ; or if the cai-pet is
soiled as well, wash over first with carbolic or
Sunlight soap and water, and rinse with ammonia
and water.
To Remove Stains. - Ink. - As much as possible
should at once be absorbed with a piece of
blotting-paper. Then pour on some fresh milk,
rub it in, and off, then take some more milk and
repeat the process, finally wasliing with a little
clean warm water. If this fails, which may be
the case if the ink has been on the carpet for
some time, try Sanitas, or one tea-spoonful of
oxalic acid mixed in half a teacupful of water.
Grease. - If it is candle grease, remove as
much as possible with a spoon or bone paper-
knife ; then place a piece of thick brown or
blotting-paper over the stain and apply the
point of a hot iron, allowing the grease to sink
into the paper. Move the paper and repeat the
process. Other grease stains may be removed by
covering them with a paste made of Fuller's earth
and water. Allow this to remain for twenty-
four hours and then brush off. Black-lead stsuns
can also be removed with Fuller's earth.
Chiver's carpet soap is also very good for re-
moving stains.
To Beat Carpets. - If a carpet has to be beaten
at home it should be taken into the garden and
carried as far from the house as possible. If the
distance cannot be very great, all windows and
outside doors should be closed while the beating
is going on to prevent the dust entering the
house. Hang the carpet over a clothes-line with
the wrong side out, and beat it well with strong
canes or carpet- beaters. Care must be taken
that there are no sharp points in the sticks which
would be likely to injure the carpet. When the
wrong side seems clean and no more dust rises,
turn the carpet and repeat the same process on
the right side. Then if there is some nice clean
gresa, spread the carpet over it and sweep off the
surface-dust with a strong broom. The carpet
may even be drawn over the grass to freshen it.
Rugs should if possible be taken out of doors
to be beaten or brushed. If they are too heavy
to be shaken by hand, they should be hung over
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
63
a rope and beaten with a stick, or laid on the
grass and brushed thoroughly. Wlien there is
no garden or yard they must be swept in the
room to which they belong. If much soiled, wa^h
them over in the same way as carpets.
White Skin Rugs. - If these are large it is wise
to send them to a professional cleaner to be
cleaned, as it is too much of an undertaking to
attempt them at home, and the result is not Ukely
to be satisfactory. A small skin rug can, how-
ever, be washed without much trouble. Prepare
a tub of warm water and make a strong lather
with melted soap or soap powder, adding
enough ammonia to make the water smell rather
strongly. Put the rug into this and knead it well
with the hands, or put it on to a washing-board
and brush with a brush. Repeat the process
in a second soapy water if the first is not sufficient
to clean the rug. Rinse thoroughly in warm
soapy water ; put it two or three times through
the wringing-macliine. It is always better to
leave a little soap in the skin, as this helps to
keep it soft. Shake the rug well, in the open
air if possible, and dry in a good wind or indoors
in a warm atmosphere, but not too near a fire.
Whilst drying the rug should be shaken and
rubbed occasionally to keep the skin soft.
Cocoanut- Fibre Door- Mats. - These should be
beaten right side downwards, and on a green if
possible. When very dirty, wash them "with hot
water and soda and a very strong brush. Then
dip the brush in salt and water and wash over
again. The salt will help to keep the fibre stiff.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DUSTING
It is very important that aU dust should be
removed from oior rooms, not only because
dusty rooms are uncon.fortable and unpleasant
to look upon, but also because dust is one of the
sources of disease when we inhale it into our
lungs.
The first point in dusting is to be provided
^vith the proper sort of duster. This should be
made of some soft material that will gathpr up
the dust, and something smooth that leaves no
fluf?. In large families there is generally some
old material that can be used for the purpose,
such as remains of old curtains, or print dresses,
old window-blinds, or even thin bed-covers, which
have become too shabby to serve their original
purpose. Cotton is as a rule better than Unen.
A duster must always be hemmed. A ragged
duster should never be used for fine work, as it is
very likely to catch on to some ornament or
pointed furniture and cause an accident. Old
dusters can alwaj's be used up in the cleaning of
grates, brasses, and the like.
It is a good plan when dusting a room to work
with two dusters, one slightly damp to gather up
the dust, and the other dry to follow after and
polish up. The aim in dusting must be to
remove the dust and not merely to flick it from
one part of the room to another. The duster
ought to be rolled up into a sort of pad, the dust
collected in it and then shaken out of the window
from time to time. The work must be done
on some distinct plan to ensure every part of
the room having attention. Commence at one
corner of the room and work steadily round it
until every article has been dusted. High and
out-of-reach places should be dusted first, as then
any dust falling from the upper part will be re-
moved when the lower part is being done. It
is not only the tops of fm-niture and the places
that are seen that require dusting, the backs of
chairs, chair and table legs, the ledges of wains-
coting, and other out-of-the-way places all
require attention. When dusting a chimney-
piece or table where small ornaments, &c., aje
placed, Mft each article separately, dust it and
also the surface tmderneath it before laying it
down again. A furnitiu-e brush should be used
for the dusting of ornamental fiu-niture.
THE CJLEANING OF FURNITURE
All furniture requires regular dusting to keep
it in good order. A soft duster is necessary ;
in fact, it is best when dusting and polishing
to work with two dusters, one with which to hold
the article of furniture, and the other to do the
dusting and rubbing up. A soft brush will be a
help for any twisted or ornamental parts.
Upholstered fui-niture will also require a
brush, and especial attention must be given to
the crevices, and folds and buttons on chairs.
Furniture brushes can be bought in many
Kurniture Brushes.
different patterns, and it is as well to choose
the one that is best suited to the work to be
done.
It must be remembered when dusting and
rubbing up furniture that more can be done by
plenty of " elbow grease " than by any amount
of furnitvu-e polish ; in fact, this latter is often
used in far too lavish a manner.
64
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
In addition to the regular dusting a more
thorough cleaning and rubbing up will be re-
quired at periodic intervals, and then some
furniture polish may be applied. This may
be prepared at home in one of the following
ways : -
(1) Put into a bottle equal quantities of
boiled linseed oil and brown vinegar - shake
together and use as required. This is very
simple and very good.
(2) Take equal quantities of linseed oil, tur-
pentine, brown v-inegar and methylated spirits
and mix all together in a bottle.
:Many other formulas might be given, and
melted bees' -wax is a very favourite ingredient,
but although a good thing it requires an amount
of very hard rubbing to remove the effect of
its sticky properties. Furniture polishes may be
bought ready prepared, and many of these are so
good and so inexpensive that it is just a question
whether it is worth one's while to go to the
trouble of making one's own.
Furniture polish must never be used until the
furniture has been well dusted, or it will smear
and clog. Shake the bottle before beginning,
and apply a little with a flannel or soft cotton
pad. Rub it well into the wood, and evenly
according to the grain. It should never be used
in excess. Afterwards rub off with a soft duster
and polish with a second duster or chamois
leather.
When working with furnitxare polish be carefxil
to place the bottle where it is not likely to be
knocked over.
At spring-cleaning time, or at least once a year,
most furniture will be improved by being washed
before polishing.
Mahogany Furniture should be washed either
with cold tea or with vinegar and water. Use
a soft flannel or sponge for the plain pieces and
a soft brush for any carved or ornamental parts.
Dry and then polish as above.
Oak Furniture. - A little warm beer is the best
thing for washing this, as it improves the colovu".
This is better than soap and water, and especially
for old oak, as soap would spoil the appear-
ance of the wood. When dry, polish with
furniture cream.
Highly Polished Furniture should be washed
with methylated spirits and water. Put two
table -spoonfuls of methylated spirits into three
broakfast-cupfuls of warm water, wring a small
sponge out of this and weish the furnitvire all
over. Dry and polish with a chamois leather.
No further polishing will be necessary.
Pitch-Pine Furniture may be washed with warm
water and a little soap, but care must be taken
not to make it too wet.
Stains on Furniture. - White Stains, which are
duo to hot dishes having been placed upon the
wood, can bo removed with spirits of camphor.
Rub well in with a soft rag and then polish the
wood in the usual way. Ink Stains can be
removed by rubbing them with a little oxalio
acid. Do not spread the acid over the wood
more than is necessary. A cork is a good thing
to use for the application. Wash off with warm
water and then polish.
Upholstered Furniture. - To clean this thor-
oughly it should be well beaten and brushed in
the open air. If the material with wliich it is
covered becomes soiled and dirty, it may be
considerably restored by rubbing it over with
warm bran or fig-dust, which can be bought
from any corn -dealers. Benzine will probably
remove any obstinate stains.
Leather Chairs. - These can be washed when
dirty simply with soap and tepid water. Rub
very Ughtly with a sponge, and then wipe off the
soap and dry with a soft cloth. Very Uttle water
must be used. When dry, poUsh with the
Unseed oil and vinegar polish, or with an
application of wliite of egg slightly beaten.
White Wiclcer Chairs. - Wash with soap and
warm water and a soft brush. Rinse off the
soap, and rub the cane over with equal quantities
of lemon juice and water, or with a pennyworth
of oxalic acid mixed in two cupfuls of water ;
this will help to whiten the cane. Put the
chairs in the open air to dry.
Grease stains may be removed from wicker
by rubbing them with a little methylated spirits.
FIRES AND FIREPLACES
Before beginning to lay a fire or clean a grate,
the hearth-rug, if there is one, should be rolled
up and put on one side and a hearth- cloth
laid down over the carpet. Any coarse close
material will do for this, such as sacking, tick,
or an old cretonne curtain ; but care must be
taken to spread always the clean side next the
carpet.
Have at hand everything that will be required
for the cleaning of the grate and the laying of
the fire. Some old newspaper, dry sticks, and
a supply of small coal ; a sweep's brush or
grate brush, a small shovel, black-lead or other
stove polish, with brushes for putting it on and
polishing ; one or two dusters, the necessary
materials for cleaning steel or brass, and a pair
of gloves. The best plan is to keep all these
in readiness in a housemaid's box, which is
usually fitted with small divisions for keeping
the different requisites, and is sometimes pro-
vided with a cinder-sifter as well. A pair of
gloves should always be worn, as there is nothing
worse than black-lead for the hands, and there
is no occasion to have them unnecessarily
spoilt.
First remove the fire-irons and place them on
the hearth-cloth. Then clean out the fiireplace,
using a piece of stick for the purpose, as this
will make leas noise than the poker. Be careful
to make as Uttle dust as possible. Next brush
the back of the grate and inside the fireplace
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
65
■with the sweep's brush, and remove all ashes and
cinders. The latter must be reserved for lajdng
the fire, or if there are too many,
biu-nt in the kitchen or boiler
stove. The grate must now be
thoroughly dusted before any
black-leading or poHshing takes
place.
If the stove requires black-
leading, apply a very little black-
lead that has been moistened with
water and a few drops of ttirpen-
tine, by means of the black-lead
brush. Or instead of black-lead
a specially prepared stove polish
may be used, such as Nixelene or
EnameHne; and this is almost
simpler and cleaner, as there is
no danger of it being splashed
over any siu:rounding tiles, or
even on the carpet. Brush oS
with a poUshing brush, and then
finish ofi with a firm polisher. There is no
occasion to use much black-lead or poUsh ; in
fact, if a stove is in constant use, it will not
likely be required every day ; a rub up with
the polisliing brushes will be stifficient, except
Sweei)^s Brush.
Black-lead Brushes.
perhaps once a week when the room is having
a more thorough cleaning.
The bajs of the grate wUl always require a
little extra attention, and may reqiiire to be
blackened more often.
Next lay the fire. Many people never succeed
in lajdng a fire that will burn well, because they
pack it too tightly and do not leave enough space
for the air to get through between the paper and
sticks. Conunence by laying a few cinders at
the foot of the grate with some lightly crumpled
paper on the top. Next place in some sticks
crossways, allowing some of the ends to rest on
the bars of the grate, and then some more large
cinders or small pieces of coal on the top. The
fire should be made to slope backwards, so that
when it is first hghted the smoke will not blow
into the room. Fire-lighters may be used
instead of ordinary sticks ; they are resined and
burn up very quickly.
If the front and sides of the grate are tiled,
rub these over daily with a duster, and occasion-
ally wash them with a flannel wrung out of warm
water and a little sunlight soap ; rinse, dry with
cloth, and polish with a chamois leather. If
the tUes are stained, a httle Sapolio rubbed on
the flannel and appUed rather dry will gene-
rally remove the marks ; then wash over and
finish as before. Do not use too much water
when doing the cleaning, as it will be Uable to
sink into the cement and ultimately loosen the
tiles.
Then finally clean the fender curb and fire-
irons. If these are of brass, copper or steel, it
will be s\ifiicient to rub them well with a dry
duster or chamois leather each day, and to give
them a more thorough cleaning, say once a
week. (See cleaning of brass, steel or copper,
p. 72.) If they are made partly of iron and
partly of steel, &c., the iron part may be brushed
over with the pohshing brushes, or a little
Brunswick black may be used to the fender if it
becomes very shabby. Black-lead must on no
account be put on the handles of fire-irons.
If an iron grate is not to be used for some time,
it is a good plan to rub it up with a little Pvonuk ;
this will not only keep it looking bright, but will
prevent rust. Directions for use are given with
each tin.
If by any chance the grate has become rusty,
rub well with a mixture of bath-brick dust and
paraffin, then wash off and dry before polisliing.
Grates that are seldom used are sometimes
painted with Brunswick black to keeo them in
good condition.
CARE OF CHIMNEYS
Chimney on Fire. - This can to a large extent
be prevented by keeping the chimneys clean.
Every chimney should be swept once or twice
a year at least, and oftener if the fireplace is
in constant use. Kitchen chimneys should bo
swept oftener ; throe or four times a yeai' will not
be too much if large fires are kept burning daily.
In addition to the thorough cleaning given by
the sweep, any soot which accumulates near the
fireplace should be swept away with the sweep's
brush when the different grates ai'e cleaned.
If the chimney should catch fire the first thing
to do is to close the door and •n-indow to prevent
a strong current of air from increasing the flames.
Then throw over the fire a few handf uls of salt,
E
66
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
■when it will as a rvile burn itself out in a very
short time.
HOW TO SCRUB A ROOM
The room must first be cleeired of as much
furniture as convenient, and all rugs and pieces
of carpet rolled up and put on one side. Then
sweep the room with a soft broom, and remove
aH the dust in a shovel.
Have readj- a kneeUng-mat, a pail of warm
water, a scrubbing brush, a piece of house
flannel or a swab, and a little soft soap.
Commence at the corner of the room farthest
from the door. Wring the flannel out of the
Scrubbing- Brush.
■water, and wet as much of the boards as the
arm can conveniently reach. Put a httle soap
on the brush and scrub each piece thoroughly
backwsurds and forwards, and -with the grain of
the wood. This loosens the dirt, and it is now
important to have it removed. Wring the
flannel again out of the water and wipe the
portion of board that was scrubbed until all the
soap is gathered up ; then dry with a coarse
cloth. Do not make the boards wetter than is
necessary to make them clean, especially if it is
a floor that has a ceiUng underneath, and change
the water as soon as it becomes dirty. Work
methodically over every paxt of the floor until
all is finished.
If the wood is greasy, a little soda may be added
to the water, and when washing boards that are
much soiled a little sand used along with the
soap win be a help. A bad stain can be usually
removed from a floor by spreading it with a
paste made of Fuller's earth and hot water,
allowing it to remain overnight and then washing
off.
When finished, allow a good current of air to
pass through the room to dry it ; or on a damp
day it is better to have a fire burning, more
especially if it is a bedroom or a room that will
be used immediately.
CARE OF POLISHED FLOORS
These should bo swept and dusted every day.
First remove as much as possible of the surface
dust with a soft short-handled broom and dust-
pan, or, if there is a large surface of flooring
under treatment, a long broom can bo used.
Then rub the floor with a dry duster, or what is
better still, with a floor-duster. If there is much
polished flooring to be kept in order, it is very
important that the worker should not do it on
Floor-Duster.
her knees. Then once a week the floor should be
pohshed.
To Prepare Floor Polish. - Shred down I lb.
bees' -wax, and put it into a jar v/ith ^ pint
turpentine ; allow tliis to melt slowly in the oven
or on the side of the stove, stirring occasionally
with a wooden stick.
Rub a httle of this on to the floor ■with a piece
of flannel and then poUsh with a pad, which can
be bought for the purpose, or ■with a floor-
poUsher.
Special floor poUshes can also be bought pre-
pared, such as Ronuk, Jackson's C&mphorated
Floor-Polisher.
Pohsh, &c., and the use of one of these would of
course save the trouble of making, but 't would
come a little more expensive than the simple
bees' -wax and tiurpentine.
TO CLEAN LINOLEUM OR FLOOR-CLOTH
Much washing and scrubbing is bad for the
ordinary linoleum. It should be well swept
every day, and only washed when necessary.
Take a pail of warm water, some plain yellow
soap, and a piece of house flannel, and wash the
hnoleum with this. Wring out the flannel and
take up as much of the moisture as possible.
Then dry with a clean dry towel. If the linoleum
is very dirty and requires a brush, then a soft one
only must be used. The use of soda, ammonia,
or washing powders must be avoided.
....r^
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK
67
Greenwich Linoleum, which has the pattern
all the way through, can be washed with warm
water, a flannel, and a little Brook's soap. This
revives the colour and makes it look like new.
To give the linoleum a more finished appearance,
it may be rubbed over with a little skimmed milk
after washing and finished with a dry cloth ; or
with a httle glue water made thus : - Take one
ounce of glue powder or shredded glue, dissolve
it in one pint of boiling water and allow it to
melt, stirring occasionally with a stick. The
linoleum may of course be pohshed if a brighter
gloss is desired. (See Polished Floors, p. 66.)
Indian Matting. - This should be washed on the
floor with a strong solution of salt and water and
then dried quickly with a soft cloth. Or, if it
becomes very much soiled, take it up and scrub
with soap and water and a moderately hard
brush. Rinse on both sides and dry with a
cloth or in the open air. If there are stains on
the matting a little ammonia might be added to
the water or some benzine applied to the spot.
Care of Tiled Floors. - Sweep every day with a
soft broom ; and once or twice a week, or oftener
if necessary, wash them over with soap and
water. Take some water in a pail and add to it
a little soap powder or melted soap. Use either
a house flannel or brush to wash with. If the
tiles are very dirty a brush will be required.
Rinse oS the soap, and then make as dry as
possible with the flannel. A little Brook's soap
or Sapolio will be useful for removing any stains.
If it is desired to have a poUsh on the tiles, they
may be rubbed over with a little milk after
washing, or with Unseed oil and turpentine mixed
in equal quantities.
THE MAKING AND CABE OF BEDS
However well chosen and hygienic a bed may
be, if it is not well made, the cornfort of it will be
greatly reduced, if not altogether spoilt.
A bed must be thoroughly well aired every day
for an hour at least before making. The windows
of the bedroom should first be thi'own open top
and bottom, the bed-curtains drawn back, if
there are any, then the clothes stripped oS the
bed one at a time and placed over the back of
a chair or chairs. The pillows and bolster must
be well shaken and beaten, and placed near the
open window if possible, and then the mattress
raised on its two ends so as to form an arch for the
air to pass through. If there is a feather mat-
tress, this should be laid over the end of the bed.
In making a bed individual taste should always
be considered. Some like all the surplus length
of blanket doubled over at the top, while others
like the covering only to reach to the shoulders ;
and in the case of a feather-bed some like the bed
made so as to slope towards the foot, and others
prefer it perfectly flat, and so on. These may
appear fads, but it entails no extra trouble to
givo in to them - only a little thought; and
attention to these small details may add very
much to the comfort and real repose of the
sleeper.
It is always better and more expeditious if two
people can be engaged in the making of the beds ;
and needless to say their hands should be spot-
lessly clean, and they should each wear a clean
apron or overall.
The mattress must be turned each morning
- one day from top to bottom, and the next
from side to side - so as to ensure equal wear.
If there is a feather-bed, it must be thoroughly
shaken to prevent lumps. Take the two op-
posite corners and shake the feathers towards
the centre, then the other two corners and do
the same, and next the sides. When the feathers
seem perfectly hght and free from lumps,
smooth the mattress over, being particular to
fill the corners with feathers. If any feathers
shovdd come out during the process, it will
generally be from a hole in the seam, and this
should at once be attended to and sewn together
with a needle and cotton.
In laying the clothes on the bed each article
must be put on separately, and not thrown on in
a mass to save time. They must be put on
evenly, allowing the same amount to come over
each side of the bed and be tucked in all round.
It is also most important to have them free from
wrinkles or folds of any kind.
When the mattress is arranged, next put on
the binder or under-blanket. This should be
wide enough to tuck in well at the sides of the
bed, when it will hold the mattress together and
make the bed smoother and more comfortable.
The under-sheet is now put on and tucked in all
round, and the bolster laid on the top at the
head of the bed, unless no bolster-sHp is used,
when the under-sheet must be left long enough
to fold over the bolster and completely cover it,
but this is not such a comfortable arrangement.
Next, place on the top sheet with the wrong side
uppermost, and the widest hem at the top to
turn over the blankets. On the top of the
sheets lay the blankets with the open end at the
top (as it is easy then to throw off one fold if the
occupant of the bed should find it too hot).
Then a coverlet or sheet should cover all, and
must be light in weight, as it is meant for night
use. This should be turned in over the blankets
at the top, and the end of the sheet tm-ned over
it; the blankets are thus preserved from dust,
and the bed has a more inviting appearance
when it is turned down for the night. Then
slip in the pillow or pillows on the top of the
bolster without flattening them down, and on a
double bed place the opening of the sHp to the
inside of the bed. Lastly may be put on a
pretty counterpane, which is removed at night.
This should not be tucked in, but allowed to hang
over the sides in graceful folds. If there is a
centre pattern, be sure that tins comes to the
centre of the bed, and any surplus length may bo
68
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
laid in folds at the foot. If carefully folded up
at night and eJways in the same folds, the
counterpane will keep clean for quite a long
time, and it adds very much to the dfiinty appear-
once of the bedroom during the day.
If an eider-dowTi is used it should be rolled up
or folded double at the foot of the bed. Those
•who like warmth without weight will find it a
great advantage to make the bed with the eider-
down between the upper sheet and the blankets.
The warmth is thereby sensibly increased, and
if the eider-down is well ventilated it is not
unliealthy.
If pillow shams and sheet shams are used,
the pillows should be placed on the outside of
the counterpane during tlie day, and the sheet
sham slipped under the bed-clothes and arranged
so that the embroidered edge rests on the
counterpane.
If there are curtains, draw these back and
arrange the ends neatly on the pillows.
Turning down a Bed. - First remove the
eider-down ; tlien take off the counterpane and
sheet and pillow shams, if there are such, and
fold all these up very carefully, and place them
where they will not be crushed nor sat upon.
Then turn down the clothes about a foot or a
foot and a half at the top of the bed, and one
corner, or two corners if it is a double bed, may
be turned back again towards the centre, but
this is a matter of taste. It is also a question of
taste whether the clothes be left tucked in at
the sides or loosened. Let down and draw any
curtains. See that pillows are nice and smooth
and all straight and even, and then replace the
eider-down, spreading it out over the bed this
time.
Care of Beds. - The strictest cleanliness must
be observed as regards beds, not merely in
the changing of the linen, but in the bed itself
and everything about it.
One hears of beds the spars of which are
never dusted except at the annual period of
spring cleaning, and sometimes not even then.
We ought to remember that the dust in our
houses, and especially in our bedrooms, is not
only earth dust, soot, fraying of carpets and
curtains, &c., but that there is a large admixture
of animal matter, for our outer skin or cuticle
is constantly peeling off and being removed ; and
added to that, this dust if not removed becomes
impregnated with noxious gases exhaled from our
lungs and from the pores of our bodies, and
poisons the air we breathe, thereby greatly
lessening the beneficial effects of sleep. Every
part of the bedstead should be carefully dusted
once a week, a small brush being used if neces-
sary. The best time for this will be before the
bed is made on the day the room is thoroughly
cleaned.
ITie bedstead itself, and especially the under-
part, should bo washed with warm water and
carbolic soap at least once a year. If at any
time insects should appear, the bedstead should
be rubbed over with paraflSn or very strong
ammonia.
Japanned bedsteads may be revived by rub-
bing them over with a little paraffin, and then
poUshing with a leather or soft duster.
Brass bedsteads should bo dusted daily, and
occasionally rubbed over with a little sweet oil
and polished with a leather. Metal polish
should not be used, as the brass is lacquered.
If this wears off it will reqxiire special treat-
ment.
If the mattresses and pillows have been
covered with cotton slips (see p. 258), it is very
easy to have these taken off and washed as soon
as they become soiled. The bedding can then
be thoroughly brushed and beaten, special
attention being paid to the edges and to the
little corners where the mattress is tacked down.
If this can be done out of doors, so much the
better.
The mattresses ought to be taken to pieces
and re- made every few years - not merely because
they will, even with the most careful treatment,
eventually form into hard lumps and hollows,
but because they will really require to be pvu-ified
from animal matter. Although it is possible to
do this at home, this course is scarcely to be
recommended. It is much wiser and simpler to
send them to a good upholsterer.
Blankets, too, must be washed or cleaned when-
ever they require it. Once or t'wice a year will
be sufficient under ordinary circumstances, pro-
vided they have proper care in the way of airing,
shaking, and being kept covered from dust ; but
if they have been used in the case of illness they
must of course be washed specially, and if thљ
illness is an infectious one, disinfected as well.
EMPTYING OF SLOPS AND CARE OF
THE WASH-STAND
The appliances necessary for tliis portion of
household work are : a slop-pail, a can of
boiling water in which a little soda has been
dissolved, a small mop,
two slop-cloths, and a
glass- towel. The slop-
pail used for carrying
about is best made of
enamelled tin, as it is
easily kept in order and
there is no danger of its
breaking. It should al-
ways bo fitted with a lid.
The slop-cloths should
be of some thin open
material, which can be
washed and dried easily. RIop-Pail.
One must be used for the basin and wash-stand
and the second for the chamber and bedroom
slop-pail. It is important to keep each cloth
for its special purpose.
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
69
Commence by emptjdng everytliing into the
slop-pail. Pour a little of the hot soda-water
into the chamber, and aUow it to remain there
while the wash-stand is being put in order.
Rinse out the basin with clean water, using a
little of the soda-water if necessary to remove any
stain or soap-suds. Then pour a little clean
water into the basin and rinse the tumbler and
water-bottle, and dry them with the glass-towel.
Next rinse any sponges or loofahs, &c., and
either hang them up to dry or place them in a
sponge basket. Then pour out the water, and
wipe the basin thoroughly with its special cloth.
Empty the ewer and wash it out if necessary.
If rain water is used there is frequently a con-
siderable amount of sediment which settles at
the foot of the jug.
Wipe also the wash-stand, Ufting each article
and wiping it clean. Pay particidar attention
to the soap-dish.
Wash the chamber with the mop, using the
water that has been standing in it ; rinse and
dry with the special cloth. If there is a slop-pail
belonging to the room, empty this also, wash
with hot water, using the mop. Then rinse
with cold, and dry with the chamber cloth.
Finally fill up the ewer and water-bottle with
fresh water. The former with soft water if
available, and the latter with drinking water.
It is very important that the ewer should be
quite emptied every day ; if old water is allowed
to remain and just a little fresh added, the
water will very soon begin to smell. So let it all
be jresh.
Cover the slop-pail before taking it from the
room, and have the contents emptied at once.
Care too must be taken to keep tliis pail very
clean and fresh. It should be rinsed out every
day with hot soda-wa.er; rinsed, dried, and
then left with the lid off to air. The lid should
have the same treatment, and then be hung up
until required again.
The two slop- cloths should be washed every
day and hung up to dry. The glass-towel if
properly used ought to last a week.
Once a week, usually on the day the bedroom
is being turned out, the wash-stand, &c., wiU
require a more thorough cleaning.
The ware should be taken out of the room if
possible and well washed in the housemaid's
pantry or bath-room. Use hot water and a
little paraffin soap or soap-powder. Pay par-
ticular attention to the handles of ewer and
chamber, and use sniall brush for the corners, if
necessary. The inside of the ewer too must be
washed as well as the outside, and a little soda-
water may be required to remove discoloration.
If the water-bottle has become stained and
dim, it ought to have special treatment. (See
p. 75.)
Wash the wash-stand with a little soap and
water, using a washing flannel or soft brush ;
wipe off the soap and rub up with a towel. Then
replace the ware, and supply with water and
soap too if required.
TO CLEAN WALLS AND CEILINGS
Papered Walls, when they become dirty,
should be thorouglily dusted. To do this, tie
a clean soft duster over the head of a long-
handled broom. Any soft broom will do, pro-
vided the wall is not very high, in which case
it is almost necessary to have a special waU-
broom, or Turk's-head broom, which has a
jointed bamboo handle,
and can be shortened or
lengthened as required.
Sweep every part of the
wall, moving the brush
up and down in long
straight lines, and be
particxilar to remove all
dust from any cornice or
mouldings. The duster
must be changed when
it becomes dirty.
If the paper has still a
soiled appearance after
dusting, it may be
further improved by
rubbing it all over with
stale bread. Cut a
plain dry loaf in four
pieces, and rub the
paper aU over with it.
It will be necessary to
mount on a pair of
steps to do this. Commence at one of the top
corners and rub with Ught even strokes, under-
taking about a yard at a time. There is no need
to rub very hard ; too much vigoiir would only
destroy the surface of the paper. Go over each
piece in a careful methodical way, and in the order
most convenient to yourself. This manner of
cleaning will make a considerable difference to
dirty wall-paper.
The ceiling of a room can be cleaned in the
same way, and special attention must be given to
the corners, where cobwebs so frequently lodge.
Varnished Paper and Painted Walls may be
washed ajter dusting. Take a pail of tepid water,
and add to it enough melted soap to make a
hght lather. Use a sponge, and wash the wall
all over with this. Then carefully remove the
soap with a second sponge or chamois leather
wrung out of clear cold water. Leave the wall
to dry without any further wiping.
TO CLEAN WINDOWS
Windows must never be cleaned in frosty
weather, as the glass is then very brittle and
would be liable to break as soon as moisture
were appUed. Choose a dull di-y day when the
sun is not shining upon them.
Turk's-head Broom.
70
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Painter's Brash.
First dust the windows inside and out, axid
also the woodwork surrovinding them. A
painter's brush or any other soft brush is the
best thing for the purpose. Then take some
tepid water and add enough liquid ammonia to
it to make it smell slightly, or a small quantity
of paraffin. Wring a sponge or chamois leather
out of tliis and wash over the
window with it, paying particular
attention to the sides and corners.
Finish off with a linen duster
or a dry chamois leather. No
material of a fluffy nature must
be used. Clean soft newspaper
makes a very good polisliing-pad.
Commence always at the top and
work downwards.
Paint or other stains can bo
removed from the glass with a
little vinegar or oxaUc acid.
Various powders are now sold
for cleaning windows without
water, and these in many cases
are found quite satisfactory.
Directions for use are given with
each special make.
It must be remembered that
no woman is allowed to sit or
stand outside an upstairs window
in order to clean it ; so that for large windows
wliich cannot be cleaned from the inside, it
will be necessary to employ a man. These
men usually bring their own apparatus. The
usual charge for cleaning is about 2d. a
window.
TO CLEAN BLINDS
Venetian Blinds. - These ought to be thor-
oughly dusted once a week. Let the blinds down,
and by means of a pair of steps, dust all the
webbing and the cords. Then with a soft duster
dust each lath separately. Commence at the
top and work downwards. Do one side first,
all the way down, then turn the blind and dust
the other side. Put the duster over the finger
and rub well round the cords where they pass
through the laths.
Once a year, or even oftener, Venetian blinds
should be washed. Take a basin or small pail
of warm water in which a little soap and borax
have been dissolved, wring a sponge out of this,
and wash each lath separately. Then di[> the
sponge into clean warm water and rub the soap
off the wood. Dry with a soft towel. Or, if
found ea-^ier, the laths may be removed. To do
tliis, undo the knot at the foot of the cord which
runs through the blind. Then pull out the cord
and remove the laths. Wash them as above,
and when thoroughly dry, put them back in
thi ir place and lace the cord through them.
Linen or Holland Blinds. - These should be
dusted weekly. Let the blind down as far as it
will go and with a soft duster wipe it well on both
sides. Dust also the cord and roller.
To clean them more thoroughly they should be
taken down, laid flat on a table and well dusted
on both sides. Then take some stale bread or
bran, and rub this lightly and quickly all over
the material. Dust off with a clean duster. If
this is not sufficient to clean them, they will
require to be washed. Unless the blinds are
small in size, it is not wise to attempt this at
home, as they really require special washing to
give them a good gloss and keep them in shape.
TO WASH PAINT
Dust the paint first, using a soft brush for
the purpose, as this is less likelj- to drive the
dirt into the wood than a cloth. Then have
ready at hand a pail of warm soft water, to
wliich a little dissolved soap has been added,
and a soft flannel ; a second pail of cold or tepid
water with a sponge, and a soft cloth or chamois
leather for drying. Wring the flannel out of
the soapy water, and wash the paint gently with
it. Do not use the flannel too wet, and be careful
to avoid splashing the surrounding wall. Then
rinse off the dirty soap with the sponge and
tepid water, and this will prevent the wood having
a smeary appearance. Finish off with the dry
cloth or leather.
Do not wet too much of the paint at one time ;
if there is a large quantity of woodwork to be
done iL will be a great advantage if two can be
engaged at the work; one to wash, and the
second to follow and do the rinsing and drjang.
The water must be changed as soon as it becomes
dirty.
For varnished paint use tepid water only ; in
fact for any paint care must be taken not to
have the water too hot.
Soda must never be used, but a little borax
may be added with safety to water that is hard.
Care must be taken, too, that the soap used is
of a pure and simple kind. Good yellow soap,
mottled soap, or carbolic soap are to be recom-
mended. Then as regards the flannel, the
ordinary house flannel is too rough, and house-
keepers would do well to save up any pieces of
old flannel, woven under-garments, old b'ankets,
&c., for this purpose. The towels, too, that aro
used must not be of a fluffy nature ; old huck-
aback bedroom towels are excellent for the
purpose.
The woodwork in a house should bo washed at
least twice a year. Flics and other insects lay
their eggs along the crevices of doors andwindows,
and by keeping these clean we can do much to
avoid the arrival of these unwelcome visitors.
Finger-marks and other marks should, of course,
be removed as need arises ; a little benzine
applied on a flannel, or simply a gentle rub with
a soapy sponge, will be sufficient. All hard rub-
bing must be avoided.
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
71
White Enamel Paint. - The following is a very
good preparation for cleaning this special kind
of paint : -
Take one gill of vinegar, one gill paraffin, and
half -gill linseed oil, and shake them together in a
bottle. Apply this to the paint with a clean
sponge or soft flannel and the result will be
excellent. No washing is required.
TO CLEAN MARBLE
When marble is in good condition, it can be
kept in order by simply washing it with soap and
water, rinsed off and then dried. This would
apply to marble wash-stands and slabs which are
in frequent use.
A chimney-piece which is not cleaned so often
may require a httle stronger treatment. Dust
it first, and in this case a Uttle shredded Brook's
soap or SapoUa used along with ordinary yellow
soap or soft soap will be efficacious, and a
brush should be used for any ornamental
parts. Al"7avs rinse off the soap, and take a
second water if necessary. Dry with a cloth
and polish with a chamois leather. Black or
grey marble may be rubbed over with a
little linseed oil after washing to give it a
gloss.
If the marble is stained, the appearance of it
may be improved by the following treatment : -
Take 1 oz. powdered chalk, 1 oz. powdered
pumice-stone and 2 ozs. soda - pound these
together and pass them through a sieve. Then
make them into a paste with boiling water, and
spread this over the marble, especially over the
stained parts. Allow it to remain overnight,
and wash off as before.
Another way of cleaning marble is to coat it
all over with a layer of thick hot-water starch
(see p. 280). This starch penetrates in+o all
the cre%'ices and absorbs the surface dirt. Wlien
dry it will scale off in large pieces, bringing the
dirt away with it. Then wash with soap and
water and dry as before.
Oxalic acid, too, will sometimes remove a stain,
but it must be rubbed on and washed o2 again
very quickly, as it will discolour the marble if
allowed to remain. If a stain is very deep-
seated the only sure way of eradicating it is to
have the marble repolished.
Marble Statuary should be washed with soap
and water only. Sunlight or paraffin soap is
good, but nothing of a gritty nature must be
used. The washing should be done with soft
brushes, small ones being used for any corners
or intricate parts. The water must be changed
whenever it becomes dirty, and care must be
taken t(. rinse off all soap. Allow the marble
to dry, and then polish with a leather or soft diy
brush.
Marble statuary may also be eleaned with a
paste of starch as above.
TO CLEAN PICTURES
The Glass. - To clean the glass of pictures,
dust it first with a soft silk or muslin duster.
Then put one tablespoonful of methylated
spirits into a small basin of warm water (about
two breakfast-cupfuls), wring a sponge out of
this and wash the picture glass all over. Be
careful not to wet the frame when cleaning the
corners and edges. Pay particular attention to
any fly-marks or other stains. Then dry with
a fine towel and polish with a chamois leather.
Oil-Paintings. - These require very careful
treatment. They should be dusted frequently
with an old silk handkerchief or feather brush,
but if the latter is used one must make sure
there are no sharp pieces of quill or wire fasten-
ings which might scratch the canvas. The
picture must be taken down to be cleaned
thoroughly. First of aU it should be dusted,
back and front. Then sponge the oil-painting
very carefully with a fine sponge or piece of
cotton-wool wrung out of lukewarm water.
Soap must on no account be used. Rub the
svirface over Ughtly and quickly, and do not
allow it to remain wet longer than is needful.
Dry with a fine cloth or chamois leather. This
can of course only be done to oil-paintings that
have a coating of varnish over them, as it is the
varnish only that will bear the washing. If
this gets rubbed or worn off, the picture must
be dusted only. If an oil-painting becomes
very much discoloured and dirty through age,
it is better to send it to an expert to have
scientific treatment, as trying different things
at home might easily end in injuring the picture.
Brass Picture-Chains. - These become very
dirty after they have been exposed to the atmos-
phere for some time, but they can be made to
look quite fresh again by the following treat-
ment : - Brush them first with a soft brush, so
as to remove as much of the dust as possible.
Then plunge them into a pail of boiling water
to which a good handful of soda has been added,
and allow them to remain until that is cold.
Next wash them in clean hot water with soap
and a brush, rinse and hang them up to dry.
Finally they may have a rub with the chamois
leather.
Gilt Picture-Frames. - If the frames are made
of inferior gilt they wiU not endure much clean-
ing. Dust them carefully with a soft brush, and
if the gilt has chipped off in places it may be
touched up with a little gold paint, which can be
bought at any oil-shop.
To clean good English gilt frames, dust them
first with a soft brush or silk handkerchief, then
wash gently with a small fine sponge wrung out
of equal quantities of methylated spirits and
water. Or a camel's-hair brush may be used
instead of the sponge. Dry with a chamois
leather.
A little onion water applied with a spongo
72
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
sometimes helps to restore the colour of the
gilding, and also keeps off flies.
Prepare it thus : - Remove the skin from two
or three onions and boil them in two breakfast-
cupfuls of water until all the goodness is ex-
tracted. Strain through a very fine strainer or
piece of muslin and use warm.
JAPANESE JRAYS OR PAPIER-
MACHE ARTICLES
•Clean these by washing them gently with a
sponge wrung out of tepid water. Tlien dry
with a cloth and poUsh with a little dry flour
rubbed on with a soft dtister or chamois leather.
TO CLEAN MIRRORS
First remove all dust. Then take a basin of
tepid water and add enough ammonia to make
it smell slightly. Wring a sponge or chamois
leather out of this, and wash the glass all over,
going carefully round the edges and into the
corners to avoid wetting the frame, and especially
if it is a gilded one.
Dry with a soft towel, and polish with a
chamois leather or old sUk handkerchief.
If the mirror has not been cleaned for some
time, and is smeared and stained, instead of
washing it, make a paste with fine whitening and
methylated spirits, and rub this well over the
glass with a piece of flannel. When dry, rub
oS with a duster and polish as before.
For gilt frames see p. 71.
TO CLEAN STEEL
If steel is rubbed daily with a dry duster or
leather, and so kept free from dust and moisture,
it ought tў retain its brightness for a considerable
time. When it requires extra cleaning, use very
fine emery paper ; No. 0 is best. Rub the steel
backwards and forwards with this, and always
in the one direction. Cross-rubbing will not
polish properly. Emery powder, fine bath-
brick dust or crocus powder made into a paste
with paraffin or methylated spirits are all good
things for the cleaning of steel. These should be
applied with a piece of flannel and well rubbed on
to the metal. Then a little of the dry powder
used for polishing and the chamois leather for
the final rub up.
The emery paper is, however, cleaner and
simpler to use, and unless the steel is allowed to
get into bad condition, it ought to be sufficient
to keep it in excellent order.
TO CLEAN BRASS
There are many different materials used for
the cleaning of brass, but perhaps nothing is
better than fine bath-brick dust or powdered
rotten-stone made into a paste with a littlo
paraffin or oil of turpentine. Apply tliis with
a flannel, rubbing the brass well ; then rub off
with a second flannel, using a little dry powder,
and polish with a duster or chamois leather.
There are also many modern polishes that can
be used, but with some of them the result,
although good to begin with, is not lasting ;
the brass tarnishes and becomes dim very
rapidly.
Tlie " Blue-bell " polish is one to be recom-
mended, and it has the advantage of being very
clean to use. Directions for its use are given
with each tin. If a paste of any kind is used,
care must be taken that none of it is left sticking
to the brass.
Outside brasses may be kept from tarnishing
by rubbing them over with a Uttle vaseline after
cleaning.
Benares Brass should be washed in very hot
soapy water, and well rubbed with a flannel or
soft brush. If the brass is greasy, add a little
borax to the water, then rinse in hot water and
dry with a towel. If the brass still remains
stained or discoloured, rub it over with the
squeezed half of a lemon and wash again.
Finally polish with a chamois leather. It is
better not to use any polishing paste for chased
work, as it is almost impossible to remove it
entirely ; but a Uttle dry whitening may be
used to poUsh with, if it is very carefully
brushed off.
Lacquered Brass requires very careful treat-
ment, and especially so if it is not of a very good
quality, as the appUcation of paste and a great
deal of rubbing would then be liable to remove
the lacquer, wliich is only a sort of varnish which
can quickly be worn off.
Lacquered articles should be rubbed up fre-
quently with a leather, and if this is not sufficient
to keep them in order, wash them in warm
water with soap and a flannel. Then dry and
polish. Soda must never be used when washing
lacquered goods, but a little borax may be added
if the water is hard.
THE CLEANING OF BOOKS
Books should be kept as free from dust as
possible. If the book-case is covered with glass
this is comparatively easy, but when the books
are placed on open shelves they will require
more attention. Care should be taken to
always cover them with a dust-sheet before any
sweeping is done in the room. Then from time
to time, or as often as necessary, the books should
bo removed from the shelves and thoroughly
dusted. Take them two at a time, and clap
them together to disperse the dust, then dtist
them gently with a very light duster or soft
clothes' -brush. The dust must not be rubbed
into the leaves. The shelves, too, should be
dusted before the books are returned to them.
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
73
THE CABE OF A PIANO
The most important point is to protect it
from all damp. It should never be in a tempera-
ture under 60 dogs. Falirenheit, therefore it Ls
unwise to have it standing in a room where there
is no fire in winter. Great heat is also injiu-ious.
A piano should never be placed against an
outside wall, unless it can be protected in some
way, neither should it stand in a direct draught.
A strip of felt or a pad of silk is sometimes
placed over the keyboard to protect it from
damp and dust.
It is a bad plan to pile books and ornaments
on the top of a piano, as any weight is apt to
spoil the tone of the instrument. A flower vase
with water should be especially avoided, as
there is always the danger of the water being
spilt and soaking between the keys.
Pianos should be carefully dusted with a soft
cloth or silk duster, and polished when neces-
sary with a chamois leather. Any marks on
the keyboard may be removed with a damp
chamois leather, but soap and water should
never be iised.
A piano, whether it is in use or not, should be
tuned regularly by a competent tuner. An
arrangement can be made for this to be done
periodically, generally four times a year, for a
very moderate charge. This will preserve the
instrument and keep it at the necessary pitch.
BRASS CHANDELIERS OR GAS BRACKETS
Keep these free from dust with a soft brush or
duster. When they become soiled, wash with a
sponge wrung out of vinegar and water. Dry
with a soft cloth, and polish with a chamois
leather.
TO CLEAN BRONZE ORNAMENTS
These must never be washed. Dust with a
muslin or silk duster, and use a soft brush for any
ornamental part. If this is not sufficient to
make them clean, sponge the ornaments with
stale beer, using a small sponge, and when dry,
polish with a chamois leather.
TO CLEAN IVORY
Wash in lukewarm water with plain yellow
soap, using a soft brush if necessary to remove
dirt from any carved parts. Rinse and dry.
Then polish with a chamois leather. If the
ivory is stained, rub with a Uttle salt and vinegar,
or salt and lemon juice, after wasliing ; rinse and
dry as before.
Or, if the ivory is discoloured, lift it out of the
soapy water and stand it in the sun. Before it
becomes dry, repeat the process if necessary. It
must not be allowed to remain dry in a hot sun,
or it will warp. Rinse and dry as before.
Kneeling- Mat.
TO CLEAN DOOR-STEPS
First sweep away all the dust with an old
broom kept for the purpose. Then take a pail
of cold or tepid water, a piece of strong floor-cloth
or swab, and some rough hearth-stone, which can
be bought at the rate of two or three pieces for
a penny. A kneeling- mat must always be used.
Wring the cloth out of
the water, and wet over
as much as is con-
venient of the steps at
one time. Then rub
over with the stone
evenly backwards and
forwards, and not in
curves.
Next wring the cloth again out of the water,
and wipe the stone again to prevent it having a
patchy appearance when dry. Then go on to
the next piece of step and do it in the same way,
and so on until all is finished. The sides and
front of the steps must also have attention.
In frosty weather a handful of salt should be
put in the water, and this wiU prevent its
freezing.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR
" WASHING UP "
Before commencing the actual washing of
dishes, &c., a certain amount of preliminary
arrangement is necessary. First of all, one
must see that a plentiful supply of hot water is
available. If there is a hot- water supply in the
house, this is a simple matter if the fire is first
attended to, but if only a side boiler or kettles
are to be relied on, some looking ahead will be
necessary to see that these are filled in time,
and then refilled, when once they have been
emptied, in order to cause no delay in having
to wait for the water to boil.
Then everything that requires washing must
be collected together and put within easy reach.
The contents of dishes on which food has been
served must be put away on clean plates or basins.
All scraps of food, crumbs, remains of mustard
or jam, &c., must be removed from plates ;
slops must be poured out of teacups or coffee-
cups ; remains of tea and tea leaves from the
teapot, and so on.
If this were not done before starting the
washing, the water would not only become un-
necessarily dirty and require more frequent
changing, but the work itself would be dis-
agreeable.
Arrange all articles of one kind together,
plates of different sizes in neat piles, saucers by
themselves in another pile, cups by themselves,
and so on.
Silver and glass ought to be kept apart on a
tray, or in the case of the former in a plate-
basket, until they can be washed. They must
not be mixed up with other dishes.
74
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Knives should be placed blades downwards
in a washer or jug of hot water. (See p. 76.)
If attention is paid to these small points,
*' wasliing up " will be a much simpler affair
than if it were just started in a muddle. Much
time too will be saved, as all unnecessary turning
round and walking about with wet and soapy
hands ^^•ill be avoided.
Two basins or small tubs will be necessary for
the wasliing, one for hot water and the second for
a cold or tepid rinsing water. For silver, glass
and fine china, a small wooden or pulp-ware tub
is best, as this is less liable to scratch or break
fine articles ; but for ordinary dishes, and
especially greeisy dishes, zinc or tin is preferable,
Eis it can bo kept clean more easily.
If the water is hard, it must be softened with
a little soda or borax, and a little soap or soap-
powder must be used if required. Care must,
however, be taken to avoid unnecessary extrava-
gance in the employment of these materials; there
is frequently considerable w£iste caused by their
needless use, and this must be guarded against.
With regard to dish-cloths, these are best
made of some open material which will not re-
tain the grease, such as thin old towelUng, or a
cheap canvas-like material sold for the piirpose.
Some people prefer a mop or dish-,brush
instead of the dish-cloth, and both are useful.
When all is arranged, commence with the
glass and silver, and when these are out of the
way start on the cleanest and least greasy of
the dishes. If there are two people to do the
work, then one can wash while the other does
the drying.
The water must be changed whenever it
becomes dirty ; continuing to wash in the dirty
water would only result in smeary dishes, with
probably an unpleasant smell. This is one of
the most important points to pay attention to.
Another very important point is the use of dry
and clean towels. The thickness of the towel
must be regulated according to the kind of
article being dried. Glass, silver, and china will
require fine smooth towels without a fluffy
surface, while coarser dishes will require a
coarse and stronger material. In all cases
the towels must be clean and free from grease,
and as they become wet should be hung near the
fire to dry.
Finally, when the " washing up " is finished
and everything put away in its place, the dish-
cloths or flannels that have been used must be
washed out and hung up to dry, and also any
towels that require it. The tub or basin must
be well washed and rinsed and set on end to air.
All then will bo clean and ready when wanted
again, and a pood worker is recognised by
attention to these small details.
3ee also detailed directions under special
articles.
For the washing of kitchen utensils, see pp.
92-94.
CARE OF SILVER
The daily care of silver is much more import-
ant than the thorough cleaning which is given to
it at stated intervals. In fact, if a Uttle extra
time were spent over the regular washing and
drj-ing, the " thorough cleaning," as it is called,
need not be oftener than once in tliree weeks or
a month.
The keeping of silver requires a good deal of
care, but it is not difficult if the work is done
with method, and attention paid to a few special
points.
Table silver should be washed as soon as
possible after it has been used. A papier
mache or wooden tub is the best for the purpose,
as then there will be Uttle danger of it scratching
the silver. Take water as hot as the liand can
bear, add a few drops of ammonia and enough
melted soap, " lux " or soap-powder to make a
nice lather. Wash the silver in this, using a
piece of flannel or soft towelling to rub it with.
Rinse in clean hot water, and dry with a finљ
towel whUe the silver is still warm. If allowed
to he wet, it will be difficult to remove the water-
marks. For this reason, if a large quantity of
silver is being done, it is better not to start it all
at one time, but one lot can be finished as far as
the rinsing, and the second lot put to soak in
the soapy water while the first lot is being dried.
When dry give each article a good rub up with
a chamois leather, and then arrange the silver
neatly and in order in the plate-basket, or on a
tray ready to put away.
Throughout the process the greatest care
must be taken not to scratch the silver, and
with this in view it is really better if forks can be
kept by themselves. In the case of real silver,
a careful worker will first lay a towel or piece of
flannel on the tray on wliich the silver is drained,
and, in fact, never allow it to touch a hard surface,
which might be liable to injure it.
Another important point to remember is, that
both towel and lather must be perfectly clean
and free from grease, and in the case of the
former it must be changed when it becomes too
damp. A wot towel is practically useless.
From time to time the silver will bo improved
by having a more special cleaning. One of the
best things to use for this is fine Spanish whiten-
ing or some good plate powder and liquid
ammonia.^ Put a little whitening (not more than
one dessert-spoonful at a time) into a saucer
and mix into a perfectly smooth paste with the
ammonia. It should be of the consistency of thin
cream. Apply tliis to the silver with a piece of
soft flannel, rubbing each article well, and
especially the parts which are most likely to be
1 Elkington & Co. Ltd., Birmingham, sell a plate powder
which ia thoroughly to be recommended. It is free from
mercury, and does not contain chalk in any form. Chalk is
very injurious to silver and electro-plated articles from its
cutting nature, and unfortunately forma the basis of many
of the plate powders in existence.
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
75
stained. Allow this to dry on the silver, then
rub ofE with a second piece of flannel, using a soft
silver brush whereVer necessary to remove the
whitening. Forks require special attention, as
the powder is apt to lodge between the prongs.
The " Selvyt " fork polisher is useful for this
purpose. Tlien polish well with the
chamois leather. When finished, it
must not be handled more than
necessary.
There are many other plate
powders which can be used in place
of the whitening, but care must be
taken to use one that is thoroughly
reliable, as so many of them are
mixed with mercixry, which is in-
jiirious to the plate. Rouge and
hartshorn powder are both very
good, but unless the former is care-
fully removed it looks bad. Methy-
lated spirits may be used instead
of ammonia, and will be found very
satisfactory, but when once a good
method is adopted it should be
Silver Brush adhered to, as it is easier for the
worker and better for the silver.
Silver forks and knives with ivory handles
should not be allowed to soak in water,
or at least the handles must be kept out of
the water, or the heat will melt the cement
which fixes them together. The best plan
is to hold them in the hand while washing
and to place them in a jug for rinsing with
enough boiling water to reach just up to the
handles.
Egg spoons that have become very much
stained with the suJphur from the egg should be
rubbed with a little fine dry salt and then
washed.
A silver teapot may be washed in the same
way, only if it has a wooden handle or
wooden or ivory rings on the handle, it must
not be allowed to soak in hot water. A teapot
must on no account be left standing with the
remains of tea and tea-leaves in it, but should
be emptied and rinsed out with boihng water as
soon as possible after use. When it begins to
have a discoloured appearance inside or to
smell musty, fill it to the brim with boiling
water, and add a piece of washing-soda. Qose
down the lid and let it remain thxis all night.
Next day pour out the soda-water, wash with
soap and water, using a small brush, and rinse
thoroughly. A teapot must be dried inside
as well as outside, and left with the hd open
until quite free from moisture.
Silver should be exposed as Uttle as possible
to the action of the atmosphere, more especially
in damp foggy weather, when it will very readily
tarnish. That which is in daily use should
be kept either in a baize-hned plate-basket and
covered with a piece of felt or flannel, or in a
baize-lined drawer covered in a similar way.
Articles that are not in constant Tzse shotild
be kept in the lined C£ises, or in bags made of
flannel or chamois leather.
A lump of camphor stored with silver will
help to preserve its brilliancy.
Britannia Metal Goods. - Messrs. Dixon and
Sons, manufacturers, Sheffield, have kindlj-
suppHed the following directions for cleaning : -
Rub the article all over with a piece of woollen
cloth, moistened with sweet oil, and then apply
a Httle pounded rotten-stone, or polishing paste,
with the finger till the polish is produced ; after
which, wash it well with soap and hot water, and
when dry wipe off smartly with soft wash-leather
and a httle fine whiting. This simple method
will effectually preserve the colour.
By attending to the above, Britannia metal
goods are warranted to stand their colour any
duration of time.
THE WASHING OF GLASS, WATER-
BOTTLES, DECANTERS, &c.
Glass requires very special care if we want it
to look nice. Tumblers should be washed first
in warm water, with a very Uttle soap or a few
drops of ammonia, using the fingers or a fine
cloth to rub them with. Then rinse them in
clear cold water and place them upside down on
a tray to drain. Use a very fine towel for drying,
as one tli^t is fluffy would leave small particles
on the glass. Care must be taken, too, that the
towel is dry and free from grease, or it would give
the glass a smeared appearance. A final polish
with a chamois leather is sometimes given ; but
this is objected to by some people, because they
think it gives the glass a taste. Wlien a tumbler
has been used for milk or any other Hquid of
a greasy nature, it should be filled with cold
water as soon as possible to prevent the grease
sinking into the glass and making it troublesome
to wash.
Wine-glasses should be treated in the same
way as tumblers, only the greatest care must bo
taken in the drying, because of the slender stems.
If a Httle vinegar is added occasionally to the
water in which table glass is rinsed, it will give it
an extra brightness.
Moulded or Cut-glass Dishes. - When washing
these use a hght lather of soap and warm water,
and a few drops of ammonia as weU, if the articles
are very dirty. A soft brush, too, will be found
useful for removing any dust or dirt from the
crevices. Always rinse well in clear cold water
to remove all trace of soap, and dry and polish
as before.
Water-bottles and Decanters. - WTien these
become stained or discoloured, they may be
treated in one of the following ways : - Fill the
bottle half -full of warm soapy water, and put in
some pieces of brown paper, some tea-leaves or
small pieces of raw potato ; let it soak for some
time, shaking it occasionally, then pour out.
76
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
rinse and drain. Crushed egg-shells or fine sishes
used along with a little soap are also very good.
If none of these are enough to remove the
discoloration, try vinegar and coarse salt -
one part salt to two parts vinegar, undiluted
with water (this can be used more than once) ;
allow them to remain
some hours in the bottle,
then pour out and rinse
and dry as before. Some-
times a brush is an assis-
tance in the washing of
decanters.
If tlio stoppers become
fixed in wine decanters,
it is a good plan to poiur
a few drops of oil round
the neck and place the
^k/g^ \\\ decanter near the fire, and
■^^B .^-^ ^" ^ short time try to
^^Es ^^Su loosen it gently ; if it
^^^B ^^^tI ^^^^^ sticks, wash it in
^^^^B ^^^^ warm water and repeat
^H^B ^^^^ ^^^ process.
^T^^ ^ Sometimes a few gentle
^ taps ■with another stopper
Bottle-Brushes. "^l^ ^^Ip to loosen the
fixed one. Glycerine,
too, is a good thing to use instead of oil.
Flower Vases should be washed inside with a
small brush, and if stained, treated in the same
way as decanters.
TO WASH CHINA AND OTHER DISHES
Tea Dishes. - If these are in daily use, it wiU
be sufficient to wash them in hot water with a
soft dish-cloth ; rinse in cold or tepid water and
dry with a fine towel. If the water is very hard,
a little borax or soap-powder may be added to it,
but soda must never be used for fine -coloured
china, and especially if there is any gilt on it.
Excessive rubbing, too, must be avoided when
finely painted china is under treatment. The
water must not be used too hot, and the china
should not be put in until the heat has been
tested with the hand. If the water is too hot for
the hand to rest in, it is too hot for the china.
Commence with the cups, then the saucers, and
lastly the plates and any jugs or basins. Par-
ticular attention must bo given to the handles of
cups and jugs to see that thoy are clean.
Care, too, must be taken in the drying of fine
china ; it will require very gentle handling.
Tea stains may be removed from cups and
teapots by rubbing them with a little common
salt, or by rubbing a little Brook's soap on a
flannel, and then applying it to the mark. This
will also remove burnt stains from meat-dishes
or pie-dishes.
China Ornaments which are washed only
occasionally will require a little more rubbing,
and the addition of soap to tho water will be
a necessity. A soft brush will also be found
useful when washing any intricate parts. After
wtishing, rinse well ; drain, dry, and polish with
a channiois leather.
Dinner Dishes. - As these are stronger and
generally more greasy than other cliina, the
addition of a little soda to the
water in which they are washed
will bo advisable, except in tho
case of gilded ware, when borax
or soap-powder must be used
instead.
When using soda in the water,
it is a good plan to use a small
mop instead of a cloth to wash
with ; the hands will not then
require to come into such direct
contact with the water. Plates
and other dishes must always
be washed on both sides, and
must always be rinsed in clean
cold or tepid water before being
put aside to drain. If there is
a rack, the plates may be put
straight out of the rinsing water
into that, and a certain amount
of drying will thus be saved.
They should be taken down
when dry, and rubbed over lightly with a
clean dry cloth to give them a polish.
Dish-Mop.
THE CARE OF KNIVES AND STEEL
FORKS
Soiled knives must never be put into a basin
or tub of hot water and allowed to soak, as this
would melt the cement or glue in the handles,
and cause the blades to come apart.
Stand them blade downwards in a knife-
washer or jug with sufficient hot water to reach
just up to the handles, and add a small piece of
soda. Allow them to soak for some Uttlo time,
then wipe them well, handle and blade, with
a dish-cloth, and dry them carefully with a
towel or coarse cloth kept for the purp<^se. If
an ordinary towel is used, the greatest care
must be taken that the knives do not cut it, as
this accounts for many holes whicli appear far
too soon in kitchen and pantry towels.
With regard to polishing the knives, tliis can be
done either on a board or in a knife -cleaning
machine. These latter can now be bought for
a few shillings, and they aro certainly a great
saving of labour, but care must be taken in
their use. Tho knives must in all cases be put
in clean and free from grease, and tho machine
must be turned gently and not more than is
necessary. If the knife-board is used it is a
good plan to remove the worst stains from the
knives, and especially from the points, before
beginning to rub them on the board. This may
be done either with a piece of raw potato dipped
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
77
in bath-brick dust or knife-powder and rubbed
on the knife, or with a piece of cork used in the
same way. This will lessen the rubbing con-
siderably and lessen the wear and tear of the
knife. Then sprinkle the knife-board with a
little of the powder, and rub the knife quickly
and lightly backwards and forwards on this.
Any pressure must be brought to bear on the
back of the knife rather than on the sharp edge,
and the point must never be rubbed down. The
knives must finally be weU dusted to free them
from all powder, and must be kept in a dry
place.
Should the ivory or bone handles of Icnives
become stained or discoloured, they may be
improved by rubbing them with a cut lemon and
a little dry salt, or vinegar and salt, then wipe
off with a damp flannel and dry. Fine emery
powder moistened with a Httle water and applied
with a flannel is also a good thing to use for
stains.
When knives are not to be used for some
time, it is a good plan to rub the blades with
sweet oil and then to roll them, one by one, in a
piece of flannel or felt, and in such a way that
they do not touch each other. This is especially
necessary in damp districts, because if once rust
is allowed to attack the steel the appearance of
the knife is spoilt.
Steel Forks must be treated in the same way
as knives, only instead of rubbing them on the
board apply the knife -powder or bath-brick
with a piece of flannel. Particular care must be
taken to dust well between the prongs.
THE CARE OF LAMPS AND OIL-HEATING
STOVES
If lamps are used in a household, the care of
them should be in the hands of one person, and
unless there is a capable maid who has time to
devote herself to the work, it is really better for
the mistress to undertake this duty herself. The
Value of a lamp depends upon its being properly
attended to, and if it is allowed to smoke and
smell, it is not only worse than useless, as far as
light is concerned, but there is nothing more
disagreeable.
To begin with, lamps must be cleaned and
filled by daylight, as there is always a certain
amount of danger in working with oil by artificial
light. Needless to say, this must not be done on
the kitchen table, nor where any fine work is in
progress, as lamp-oil stains are very difficult to
eradicate. If a small table cannot be reserved
for ihe purpose, then the best plan is to use an
old tray or a piece of thick mill-board.
A lamp in daily use should be filled tliree
parts full every morning, as it is dangerous to
use when the oil is very low in the reservoir or
container. The oil should be poured in by
means of a feeder, and not from the can itself,
for in the latter case it would be apt to come
out by jerks and be spilt over, or the lamp would
be made too full. It is very important also to
use oil of a good quality. In fact, it is no
economy to buy cheap oil, as it not only gives
an inferior Ught and burns more quickly, but it
is also more dangerous to use. Good oil should
give a white light, have no smell, and be as clear
as water.
Then with regard to the wick ; it is of the
utmost importance that this fits the biirner
well, and it should be just long enough to reach
the bottom of the reservoir. A wick should
last for three months, after that time it is best
to renew it, when the end to be lighted should be
dipped in the oil first. As a rule the wick should
not require cutting, but should be turned low
and the uneven charred part gently rubbed off
with a piece of card-board and the surface made
smooth with the top of the tubes. If it stiU re-
mains uneven, it may then be trimmed carefully
with a pair of lamp scissors. After this any
bla<3k pieces of wick must be removed from the
burner, and the outside of the lamp rubbed first
with a piece of newspaper and then a soft rag,
until free from oil.
From time to time, both the reservoir and the
burner will require to be thoroughly cleaned.
The reservoir should be emptied of all oil and
washed out with warm suds to which a few drops
of ammonia have been added. Rinse thor-
oughly, and then turn upside down in a warm
place to dry. When the burner becomes
clogged and dirty, it should be taken to pieces
(care being taken to notice how it is fixed
together), and put into an old saucepan with
a lump of soda and enough cold water to cover
it. Bring to the boil, and boil for half-an-hour.
Then rinse in warm water, and use a brush if
necessary to remove any charred wick. When
quite clean place in a warm place, or a cool oven
to dry. The lamp must not be refilled until
both reservoir and burner are quite dry, or the
oil will splutter.
Pains must be taken to keep both the chimney
glass and the globe very clean and bright. The
chimney should never be washed, but may be
cleaned with lamp -brushes, or a pad of chamois
leather or felt fastened to a stick. The Selvyt
lamp -cleaner is a most useful article for tliis
purpose. If the glass becomes marked or very
much soiled, a Httle methylated spirits may be
used to remove the stains. The outer globe
should be dusted every day and occasionally
washed in warm water with a little soap, then
rinsed and dried with a glass-cloth.
If a lamp biu-ns badly or smells, it is generally
due to one of the following causes : -
(1) It has been filled too full, and the oil when
heated expands and runs over the sides.
(2) The receiver and burner have not been
wiped after filling.
(3) The wick does not fit properly, or it has
been badly trimmed.
78
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
(4) Inferior oil has been used.
(5) The lamp -glasses are not clean.
When hghting the lamp, turn up the wick only
slightly and keep it burning low until the
chimney is thorouglily heated ; then turn it up
as far as it N%-ill go without smoking.
When not in use the wick must be kept low,
otherwise the oil oozes up tlu-ough it and over
the sides.
To extinguish a lamp (if there in no patent
extinguisher attached), turn down the wick
until it is level with the tube, and blow quickly
across the top of the cliimney.
The best lamps are fitted with a patent burner
which permits of the lamp being blown out with
safetj% or, if overturned, will extinguish itself
at once. Should an accident, however, happen
and the oil be spilt and catch fire, it must be
remembered that water poured over it would only
spread the flame. The best thing to do is to
throw sand or earth on the burning oil, or to
smother the flame with a thick rug. Door and
window should immediately be shut.
The same remarks apply to the keeping of oil-
stoves. It is almost impossible to prevent their
smelling a little, but with proper care this smell
should be so reduced £is to be almost imper-
ceptible.
TO CLEAN BOOTS
Boots should never be cleaned when damp.
If they have been brought in very muddy, they
should be wiped with a damp flannel or a small
wet brush. Then put on to boot-trees, or if
these are not available, stuff the inside with
some crumpled newspaper, and this will help
to keep the boots in good shape. Never put
boots close to the fire to dry, as too rapid drying
will harden, and perhaps crack the leather. It
is much better if they can be allowed to dry
slowly in a warm atmosphere. If the leather
should become hard, a little vaseline or sweet oil
may be applied. This should be rubbed well in
and then off again with a piece of flannel.
It is very important that the inside of boots
should be kept clean during the process of
cleaning. For this reason it is a good plan to
cover the hand that is placed inside the boot
with a clean duster. Gloves, too, should be
worn to protect the hands. Thanks to the
many good boot polishes which can now be
obtained, the old-fashioned liquid blacking,
which was liable to be spleished or spilt where it
was not wanted, is now a thing of the past, and
boot-cleaning may be quite a clean and tid3'
occupation. So much so that many ladies
who do not keep a lady's-maid prefer to
clean their own shoes, and especially those of a
fine quality. In fact all the necessary requisites
can be kept in a very small tin box, and cause no
inconvenience anywhere.
First remove all dust or mud with a brush -
then with a piece of flannel or an old stocking-
leg, apply a little boot-polish, rubbing it well in
and all over the boot, not forgetting the heels and
the back part. Then polish with a polishing-pad ;
one covered with velvet or selvyt cloth is best.
When boots are new and they are found
difficult to polish, a few drops of paraffin added
to the paste will bo found a help.
Brown Boots should be cleaned in the same
way, using brown boot-polish instead of black, or
the ordinary bees' -wax and turpentine (see p. 66)
does very well. Stains may be removed with
lemon-juice or methylated spirits, or with the
inside of a banana skin.
Patent Leather Boots require rather different
treatment. Wipe them first with a damp sponge
and dry them. Then rub over with a flannel
dipped in a little milk. When the leather
becomes shabby it is better to use one of the
special polishes sold for the purpose at any
bootmakers ; or a small quantity of vasehne
well rubbed in will keep them soft and bright.
The edges of the soles should be blackened.
White Shoes. - Those made of canvas or drill
should be cleaned with pipeclay or whitening
mixed to a creamy consistency with cold water,
then applied evenly with a sponge or piece of
soft rag. Place the shoes in the sun to dry, and
then hghtly brush off any superfluous powder.
White kid shoes should be cleaned with a special
dressing sold for the purpose.
CARE OF BRUSHES
House Brushes should all be soaked in cold
water for some hours, and then well dried before
they are used. This prevents the hairs or
bristles from coming out, and increases the dura-
bihty of the brush.
When house-brooms and such-like become
dirty, they should be washed. Put a little
boiling water in a pail, and add a handful of soda
to it. Then pour in cold or tepid water until the
pail is three parts full. Take the brushes one at
a time, carefully remove from them all fluff,
thread ends, hairs, &c., and work them up and
down in the soda-water. Rinse thoroughly in
cold water and shake well to get rid of as much
moisture as possible. Dry in the open air or
hang up in a warm atmosphere.
Brushes should never be left lying or standing
on their bristles. Small brushes can be hung up,
and the longer brooms should be kept in a rack.
No pieces of wool nor fluffy matter should be left
sticking to the bristles.
It is also very important that brushes be kept
for the special purpose for which they are in-
tended, and not used for all and sundry purposes.
EXTERMINATION OF PESTS
Beetles. - These objectionable insects infest
usually the ground floor and kitchen premises
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
79
of houses. They disappear in the daytime and
come out at night through the cracks in the
flooring, and they multiply so rapidly that
Brush-Hack.
sometimes they can be counted by the thousand.
They will attack food of all kinds, and the
leather of boots and shoes ; in fact, everything
that comes in their way.
Many different kinds of traps have been in-
vented, and they all serve their purpose for the
time being, but one of the safest and surest
methods of extermination is the use of " Blatol."
Spread this paste upon pieces of thick paper
about three or four inches square. Lay these
at night in the places most frequented by the
beetles. Remove the papers in the morning
and burn them. Lay fresh papers with the paste
every night for a week, or more, then every
second or third night until all the beetles have
disappeared. The " Blatol " so effectively de-
stroys them, and at the same time so com-
pletely dries them up, that their dead bodies do
not emit the slightest smell.
Fleas. - Strict cleanliness, good ventilation and
plenty of light and sunshine are the greatest
enemies of this kind of pest. Fleas flourish in
warmth, dirt and darkness ; these are just the
conditions which favour their development.
If a bed becomes infested, the best thing is to
have the mattress brought out into the sunshine
and thoroughly brushed. The blankets, too,
should have the same treatment. Then the bed-
stead itself should be well washed with carbohc
soap and water, and also the flooring under the
bed. Tlirow the windows of the room well
open and let it be thoroughly aired. Various
powders are also used for the destruction of
fleas, and most of these contain the plant sub-
stance " PjTethrum," which has accordingly
been popularly known as " Fleabane." This
can be bought in powder form from any chemist,
and other ready-made insect powders can also
be obtained. Lumps of camphor laid between
the bedclothes, or carried in a small muslin bag
on the person, is also a preventive, but the chief
destroyer of all is cleanliness.
Moths. - It is very important that all moths on
the wing should be destroyed as soon as they
are seen. They lay their eggs in all kinds of
woollen materials, carpets, blankets and bedding,
upholstered fxirniture, &c.
Any article that is hkely to be attacked should
be brushed frequently, and special attention
should be paid to them in the month of September,
which is about the time when the eggs are laid,
and then again in the month of March, when
the insect is still in a dormant state.
Care, too, must be taken of woollen things that
are laid away for any length of time. They should
be well brushed, and then folded up in a news-
paper or sown into cotton with something
aromatic, such as cloves, caraway seeds, camphor,
naphtha balls, or sprigs of the common bog
myrtle put between the folds of the material as
preventive. The moths seem to disUke the
printer's ink on the newspaper, and they won't
eat through cotton. When a mattress or
piece of upholstered furniture is once really
attacked by moths it will require to be sent
away to be professionally stoved and cleaned.
Bugs. - These are rarely found in clean and
weU-kept houses, although occasionally through
accident they may be introduced. They must
bo attacked at once, as they breed very rapidlj%
Whenever their presence is noticed in a bed-
room, the bedding must have the most careful
attention. The mattress shovild be well brushed,
and especially in the corners and crexices, where
eggs may possibly be laid. Then the bedstead
itself should be taken to pieces, thoroughly
washed with hot water and carbolic or paraffin
soap. Wlien dry, paint it over with turpentine
and allow it to air. Any woodwork too that
seems to be infested should be painted over
with turpentine.
A formaline lamp left burning in the room is
very good for fumigating.
Mice. - The best plan is to starve them out.
All eatables should be enclosed, and nothing
left uncovered that would supply them with food.
A cat or small dog which is a good mouser are
also preventives. A trap, too, is often very
effectual in catching a stray mouse here and
there, and in frightening away others. There
are many different kinds, but perhaps the old-
fashioned make, which catches the animal alive,
are the most humane ; others, which are supposed
80
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
to kill instantaneously, often succeed in only
half doing it, and so caxising unnecessary
Buffering.
There are different poisons too which can be
bought for the destruction of mice, of wliich
phosphorus paste is perhaps the best ; but care
must be taken in using them, and especially if
there are domestic animals in the house.
Rats. - WTien rats enter a house, it is often
a sign of insanitary drainage, and if that is the
case the wrong must be seen to at once, and
the necessary repairs carried out. Or it may be
that the house is in the close proximity to a
stable, and the rats have made their way into
the house through some holes. A trap is some-
times of good service for catching the rats, and
directions for baiting them are usually given
with each special kind. Poisoning is another
method ; but this must be done with caution, and
especially if there are any domestic animals in
the house. Another danger of poisoning is
that the dead bodies of the rats sometimes
decompose under the flooring, and cause a very
bad smell. A small dog, a terrier, sometimes
keeps them away most effectively.
If the rats become numerous, a rat-catcher
should be employed, who will hunt the rats out
with trained ferrets. When once the vermin
have been got rid of, all holes by which they
have entered should be carefully filled up with
cement or plaster.
Flies. - When flies are numerous, it is a good
plan to wash the windows and window ledges
with a strong solution of carbolic, or if the smell
is an objection, sprinkle with Persian powder at
night, and then sweep up in the morning. Fly -
papers will also catch a number, but they are
rather disgusting things to use. They should if
possible be put in out-of-the-way places, such as
the tops of cupboards. A very simple fly-paper can
be made by spreading treacle or honey on brown
paper, and sprinkling it with Persian powder
or other insect poison. Fly-papers prepared
with some sticky substance to which the flies
adhere and endure a slow torturing death should
be avoided- Another good way of getting rid of
flies when they become numerous is to disinfect
the room \\-ith sulphur.
The blow-fly, which is larger than the common
house-fly, is the kind most to bo dreaded, as it
is a great enemy in the larder. It frequently
lays its larvae in meat, which causes it to de-
compose very quickly. In hot weather all
meat should be examined when it is received,
and if anything is suspected, it should be care-
fully washed \^-ith a solution of Condy's fluid and
water. The proportions to use will be found
printed on the bottle. The meat should then
be well sprinkled with pepper or other spice,
wliich will help to keep the flies away. It is a
good plan to fasten a piece of muslin or fine
gauze over the larder window to prevent the
flies entering.
Ants. - These are very troublesome creatures
to get rid of when once they infest a house, and
sometimes different remedies have to be tried
before one succeeds. One of the best is to find
the opening through which the ants come, drop
in some quicklime, and wash it over with boiling
water. A strong solution of carbolic acid or
spirits of camphor might also be tried, as ants aro
very averse to strong smells. Or, again, some
petroleum or tobacco juice poured over their
nests is sometimes effectual.
SPRING CLEANING
Every year, as soon as the cold days of winter
are over, and the promise of fine weather bids
fair to be reahsed, the thoughts of the busy
housewife turn towards preparations for the
inevitable " Spring Clean." There are still
some people who look upon this yearly cleaning
as a perfectly unnecessary fetish before which
the housewife bows down in deference to a mere
time-honoured tradition. This point of view
is erroneous, and those who share it show but
httle knowledge of the art of housewifery.
However clean a house is kept, and however
regularly the various rooms go through their
daily and weekly cleaning, it is always necessary
to have a special cleaning from cellar to garret
once a year at least. This is not intended to
take the place of the daily or weekly cleaning,
but rather to supplement it, and to give an
opportunity of attending to such matters as can
most conveniently be seen to at this season,
when all necessary renovation, papering and
whitewashing can also be undertaken.
This annual cleaning need not necessarily take
place in the spring - the time may be arranged
according to the convenience of the household ;
but spring is the season which appeals to most
people as being the most natural time for hav-ing
a good " turn out." After a long winter, things
have put on a dark and dingy appearance, and
seem very much out of keeping with the fine
weather and the bright sunsliine. There is a
desire to get rid of all dark curtains and other
hangings that have been in use all tlirougii the
wintry months of the year, and to replace them
with something Light and pretty, and to give
things generally a fresher appearance.
The best time for this cleaning is the beginning
of May, when fires are reqmred less regularly, and
the weather is likely to remain fine. If, however,
the autumn or summer suits the arrangements
of the household better, it is by no means
necessary to adhere to any rigid rule.
A spring cleaning may be hard work while it
lasts - a few days of undesirable toil ; but there
is another side to the picture. What a feeling of
satisfaction and air of content there is when all
is accomplished, and how fresh and bright the
rooms look after they have had their yearly
overhauling, and put on their spring dress.
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
81
The spring is also the tirae to see to any repairs
and renovations, as, for instance, the re-covering
of any furniture which has grown shabby, the
re-gilding of any picture-frames which require it,
the mending of all locks and door-handles, and
so on. Then a new shelf or cupboard might be
put up here and there, and any Httle additions
made which might add to the comfort of the
home. Deficiencies in stock, too, should be
replenished, broken and cracked dishes discarded
or given away, and numbers and sets of things
made up as completely as possible, so that the
work of the house may start anew with a suffi-
ciency of materials and implements.
Importance of Method. - In former times
the advent of the annual spring cleaning was
looked upon with positive terror by the un-
fortunate householder. To him it represented
a period when he would return home from his
hard daily work in the city to find a tired,
untidy-looking, cross-tempered wife, furniture
heaped pell-mell in all the passages, pails of
water and scrubbing brushes at every turn, and
curl-papers bristling in the hair, and a liberal
display of smuts upon the face of " !Mary Jane."
His evening meal, more often than not, would
have to be taken haphazard in the kitchen,
where pots and pans and other culinary para-
phernalia in the various stages of the cleaning
process would not add to the comfort of his
surroundings. Small blame to the man who
under these circumstances would seek refuge
in the comfort and cheerful society to be found
at his club !
In these days of up-to-date cleaning con-
trivances such a state of affairs should be inex-
cusable, yet in many houses to-day the words
" Spring Cleaning " and " Discomfort " are still
synonymous. The extent to which cleaning
becomes a nuisance depends very much upon
the way in which the work is performed. Some
system should be decided on beforehand, and a
haphazard way of doing things must be avoided.
By the exercise of a Uttle foresight much time
and worry may be saved, and method, organi-
sation and thoroughness will bring the work to
a speedy conclusion. For instance, if painters,
joiners, plumbers, or any other workmen are
likely to be required, they ought to be engaged
in good time ; the services of the sweep too
must be retained, and if extra help is required,
a charwoman must be engaged.
Before the work is started in real earnest, the
housewife should make sure that she has in
stock a good supply of all the necessary cleaning
materials, such as carbolic soap, soft soap, soda,
soap-powder, borax, amimonia, methylated
spirits, bees' -wax, &c., and also a sufficiency of
towels, cloths, dusters and brushes to carry on the
work. Of course the ideal way to do a spring
cleaning is to have the house emptied of all its
occupants, except only those who are taking
part in the work. Then the correct order in
which to do it would be to commence at the top
of the house, and to work downwards, beginning
with the lumber-room, if there is one, then the
bedrooms, next the sitting-rooms, bath-room
and lavatory, finishing with the kitchen, cellars,
and any outhouses. In the case of a flat a
different order may perhaps be taken. If this
ideal plan cannot be followed, then it is best to
do the cleaning by degrees, and not to plunge the
whole house into discomfort by undertaking the
whole performance at once. In fact, some
mistresses find it more convenient to clean half
the house in the spring and the other half in the
autumn, or even to clean only a single room now
and again. In this way it does not seem such
a formidable undertaking for servants.
Each day's work should be carefuUy planned.
Too much must not be undertaken at a time, but
only what can be done without undue effort.
There is never anything to be gained by over-
taxing one's strength. A point should be made
of ha\'ing comfortable meals served all the time,
as without this the end of each day would
simply mean exhaustion.
There will be a great saving of time when the
actual cleaning begins if all cupboards and
drawers can be turned out beforehand. When
they have been emptied of their contents, the
insides should be scrubbed out with carboHe
soap and warm water, and then left some time to
air. Meanwhile the contents should be looked
over, and all rubbish disposed of. The remainder
should then be dusted, brushed or washed,
according to the nature of the various articles,
and put in gc/od order. Then the shelves and
drawers should be neatly lined with clean paper,
and the contents put back in an orderly fashion.
Any winter coats or dresses which are not likely
to be required for some time should be well
brushed, and if possible hung in the open air
for some hoiirs ; then carefully stored with
some preparation which will keep the moth
away. (See p. 314.) Winter curtains should
undergo the same treatment.
Books, and book-cases too, and stands with
music, should all be cleaned and sorted out
beforehand, and any magazines or pamphlets
that are of no further service destroyed, or sent
to some hospital for the use of the patients.
Spring Cleaning a Bedroom. - The first thing
to do before ha\nng a room spring cleaned is to
make it as empty as possible. If it is a bedroom,
the bedding should first be seen to. All the
coverings, including the covers of mattress and
pillows, should be sent either to be cleaned or
washed. Then if there is a garden to wliich
things can be taken easily, everything which
requires shaking and brushing should be taken
outside, such as mattress, pillows, cushions,
rugs, upholstered chairs (unless too hea^'y to be
moved), &c.'; and after they have been cleaned
either left in the open air or in an adjoining
passage until the room is ready to receive them.
P
82
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
All pictures, ornaments, and small articles of
furniture should be dusted before they are
removed from the room, to avoid having dust
carried to another part of the house ; and that
wliich must bo left because of its size or weight
must be dusted first, and then carefully covered.
If there is a nailed-down carpet, this must be
lifted, and folded up carefully to prevent the
dust flying about, and then taken away to bo
cleaned or beaten. The floor should then be
sprinkled with a Uttle wet saw-dust or bran,
swept with a soft brush, and the dust burnt at
once.
Should the cliimney require sweeping, this
should now be done, the sweep having been
engaged beforehand. It is well also to see that
the work is properly carried out, and that the
brushes have been carried up the whole length
of tlie chimney.
When this is finished, the room is now ready
for any papering and painting that may be re-
quired, and must perforce be left in the painters'
hands until their work is completed. If nothing
of this kind is necessary, the cleaning must be
done in the following order : - First, get rid of all
dust by dusting all walls, curtain poles, blinds,
and woodwork ; secondly, black-lead and polish
the grate ; and thirdly, do all the washing that is
required, such as woodwork, marble, furniture,
including windows, bedsteads, floors, &c. Then
the room ought to be left to air and dry with
door and window wide open.
Meanwhile the articles of furniture, &c., out-
side can have attention, and as far as possible
everything should be cleaned before it is brought
back into the room. When everything is dry,
all necessary polishing should be done. Pictures
can then be re-hung, and everything as far as
possible returned to its proper place. The carpet
should of course be re-laid as soon as it is ready ;
only if tlois hsis been sent to the cleaners, it may
be necessary to wait for two or three days.
Fresh curtains should then be put up, clean
chair-covers, and cushion-covers where they are
needed, and dainty touches given to make every-
thing look pretty.
A Sitting-room. - The order in which a sitting-
room is " spring cleaned " would be very much
the same as that followed for a bedroom (with
the exception of the bed), but there will probably
bo more furniture and odds and ends to attend to.
Hall, Staircase and Bath-room. - It is always
well to leave the staircase and bath-room until
all the other rooms are finished, as there will of
necessity be more tramping up and down the
former while the cleaning is going on, and the
latter has frequently to bo used for the washing
of ornaments, bedroom ware, &c. The walls
of the bath-room should always be of a washable
nature, and then the cleaning is a very easy
matter, as it simply means that every part must
be washedfrom the top downwards, finishing with
thefloor. If the bath itself has become veryehabby
it should bo re-enamelled. Tliis can be done at
home, although as a rule home enamelling is
not very satisfactory, and if the extra expense can
be afforded, it is much bettor to have it done by a
skilled workman. When the washing is finished,
the door and window should be left open to dry
and air tlie room, and then the polishingof brasses,
woodwork and floor should be undertaken.
The hall and staircase is a more difficult
undertaking. The rugs and stair-carpets having
been removed, and all pictures, &c., taken from
the walls and moved out of the way, the first thing
to see to will be the cleaning of the walls. If
they are very high, it is scarcely work that can
be undertaken by maid-servants, especially if
tlie walls require wasliing ; if it is simply a matter
of dusting them down with a long broom, it may
be possible. The stairs, railings, and banisters
must next be well brushed and washed, and also
the floor of the hall and any passages. Wash
also any pieces of furniture that require it, in-
cluding gas globes, flower-pots and ornaments.
Next polish all woodwork, stair-rods, brasses
and furniture, and lay the ceu-pet and rugs last
of all.
The Housemaid's Pantry. - In a well-appointed
house where there are several servants there is
generally a small room set aside for the house-
maid's requirements. It is usually upstairs in
close proximity to the bedrooms. This little
Housemaid's Box.
room should contain all that the housemaid
will require for cleaning purposes, (oeo list
on page 83.)
It should be fitted up with a sink and be
supplied with hot and cold water. There should
also be a shelf at a convenient height for holding
hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, dust-sheets,
&c., and, if room, a rack for hanging brushes and
a small pulley or towel -rail for drying the various
cloths. It will also be convenient to have a
small cupboard in which cleaning materials
could be kept in jars, also paper and sticks for
lighting fires. A small solid table would also
be most useful if space permits, as on this the
housemaid could do any special cleaning of
silver or brass required for the bedrooms and
also the brushing of clothes that come under her
care. A few hooks should be put up along the
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WORK
83
edge of the shelf and at the sink, as they will be
found handy for hanging up small articles, such
as taper-holder, bottle brushes, sink brush,
tin jug, &c.
The following is a list of the articles wliich the
housemaid's pantry might contain : -
A housemaid's box, a slop-pail, a pail for
housework, a pair of steps, a kneeling-mat, a
dust-pan, hot-water cans, hot-water bottles, a
large can for carrying water, a tin jug, a soap-
dish.
Brushes. - A carpet switch, a long broom, a
small short-handled broom, a banister brush,
a wall-broom, a carpet-sweeper, a fvuriiture
brush, boot brushes, black-lead brushes, two
scrubbing brushes, a bottle brush, hearth brush,
clothes' brush.
Cleaning Materials, &c. - Wasliing soda.
Brook's soap or Sapolio, yellow soap, polisliing
paste, furniture polish, boot polish, turpentine,
ammonia, bees' -wax, coarse salt, emery paper,
black-lead, paper and sticks, or fire-lighters,
matches, taper in holder.
Towels, &C. - Dusters, glass towels, slop-
cloths, washing cloth, swabs, coarse towels for
drying floors, &c., old soft towels for drying
paint, two chamois leathers, pieces of flannel for
cleaning purposes, dust sheets, hearth cloth,
grate cloths, a pair of gloves.
A REMOVAL
Introductory. - Thanks to modern enterprise
on the part of removal contractors, this does not
require to be the dreaded affair it was in days
gone by. Although a removal is undeniably
somewhat of an undertaking, it can be robbed of
many of its terrors if it 's put into the hands of a
reliable firm, and the preliminaries are arranged
with some thought and care.
Of course, if money is no object, it is quite
possible to step out of the old house in the
morning and spend the day enjoyably in town,
or with friends, and to walk into the new home in
the evening to find there that one's belongings
have been bodily transported and placed in
position, leaving very little to bo done except
the arrangement of personal belongings to one's
own liking, and other small details.
But this expeditioiis and easy way of manag-
ing the business means money, and we are not
all lavishly endowed with this world's riches.
People of modest means must be prepared to
buckle to when such an important affair as a
removal is on hand, and undertake some of the
work and arranging themselves.
Thought, advice and experience can, however,
do mu';!h io lessen discomfort, and prevent chaos,
and the more carefully the order of the removal
is planned the easier the change of house will be.
Making the Contract. - The first point to
decide is how the furniture has to be removed,
and by whom. It is always best to choose ex-
perienced removers, for although the initial ex-
pense may appear more, the ultimate sa\'ing in the
avoidance of breakages and kindred annoyances
is unquestionable. It is better, if possible, to
choose a firm near at hand, who will send a re-
presentative to look at the things and furnish
an estimate free of charge. He will also
tell you what arrangements it is necessary to
make, and what preliminaries must be attended
to. Removals can now be conducted to all
parts of the United Kingdom in vans of the
most improved construction (pantechnicons),
and all risks and responsibihties are undertaken.
The charge will depend on the quantity and
quahty of the furniture, and upon the distance it
has to be moved.
Preliminaries in the Old House. - Before the
actual removal takes place there are certain
preUminaries which must be attended to, both in
the old house and in the new.
One very important point to attend to before
lea\'ing the old house is to turn out all the
rubbish. Clothes that are of no further use,
broken and hoarded crockery, damaged and
soiled knick-knacks, old saucepans and kettles,
empty bottles and jam-pots, all should be dis-
posed of ; in fact everything should be done to
avoid the carriage of dirt and worthless stuff.
Old papers should, however, be kept, as these
will be found useful when packing.
Then all the furnitiu-e should be sorted oufc
and considered with a view to its place in the
new abode, and that which is unsuitable should
be sold or otherwise disposed of. It sometimes
happens that an incoming tenant will only be
too pleased to buy odds and ends of furniture,
and even a carpet or two.
Furniture which requires repairing, cleaning
or re-covering, and pictures requiring new frames
or re-gilding, should be sent away to have the
necessary attention, and not returned until the
new house is ready to receive them. The decora-
tion and colouring of the new house must of
course be borne in mind when choosing any
new upholstery, and shades must be chosen
which will tone well with the new surroundings.
All carpets should be hfted and sent awaj' to
be beaten or cleaned, according to what is
necessary. Ciu-tains, too, which require cleaning
or dyeing, and any heavy extra washing, such as
bed-covers, spare blankets, &c., should be sent
from the old house, and returned to the new, as
in this way some of the removal expenses will
be saved.
Of coiirse this means a certain amount of
dismantling beforehand, but upon the whole
it is better to have the discomfort before the
removal rather than after it has taken place.
Once in the new quarters one is naturally
anxious to get settled as quickly as possible,
and it is annoying to have to wait for this or
that to arrive upon the scene.
Preliminaries in the New House. - The business
84
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
of a removal can be very much simplified if one
can obtain possession of the now house some
time before it is necessary to move into it. The
house can then bo made ready, and entered with
comfort.
First of all, every chimney should be swept.
Tlien whatever whitowasliing, papering or
painting that is necessary should be done.
It is fortunate for a new tenant when the
landlord undertakes to do up the house
throughout, and will give the choice of papers
and colouring.
When the workmen have finished, it will next
be necessary to have all the floors scrubbed with
carbolic soap, soda and a brush, and under no
circumstances should one be satisfied with the
superficial cleaning given by the painters, or even
by the late tenants. Grates and windows can
then be cleaned, and if it is winter time, coal
should be ordered in and fires put on so as to
thoroughly dry and air the rooms. The hghting
and heating arrangements should be carefuUy
tested and necessary alterations made, as it is
most annoj-ing later on to have to disturb carpets
or linoleum for the sake of laying a new gas-
pipe or an electric wire. The water-pipes and
taps should also be seen to, and the cistern
thoroughly cleaned out.
Then the question of floor covering should be
considered. It is an immense help if all linoleum
and any nailed-down carpets can be laid before
the furniture is brought in. This is really
the secret of being quickly settled. When once
the carpets and linoleum are satisfactorily laid,
then the furniture can be brought in with the
happy feeling that it will not require to be moved
again. Besides, it is much easier to fit and lay
down a large carpet in an empty room than it is
when heavy furniture has to be lift/od and moved
from one place to another. Of course, if the
carpets consist merely of small squares or large
rugs, it would be wiser to defer laying them until
later on in the proceedings. Linoleum in any
C€we, and especially that which surrounds a
room, should be put in position previous to the
moving in of the furniture.
Then with regard to curtains and blinds, if
any of these can be put up beforehand, it will
greatly add to the comfort of the first few days,
even although the old house has to be robbed of
them a trifle sooner in consequence.
Packing. - While years ago it weis deemed
necessary to pack all furniture, to tie wisps of
straw round the legs of tables and chairs, and
even sew each article into a sheet of sacking in
order to preserve it from ill-treatment, now one
can confidently leave the tables, chairs, and such-
like to the removal men, who are in most cases
trained specialists to the work. The largo vans,
or pantechnicons, take most things, and especially
the heavier articles of furniture, just as they are.
It is also bettor to leave the packing of glass,
china, and other breakables to the men, who will
bring the necessary crates and straw for the
purpose. They will be much more hkely to
avoid breakages than any amateur packer,
however careful he (or she) may be. It must
be remembered too, that a removal contractor
can only be held responsible for things he has
packed himself, and not for those packed by the
owner.
Of course there are always a few things which
can be packed beforehand, and if all small things
can be stowed away in portable cases, the
actual removal is done in a very short time.
Books, for instance, can be safely packed ; they
should be dusted first, and then put in cases
lined with paper. Any precious volumes with
fine or delicate bindings should be wrapped
separately in paper, in order to prevent them
from being scratched or rubbed. In the case
of large heavy books, it is better to make them
up in bundles, and put a piece of cord round
them. If they have a valuable binding, they can
be wrapped in paper as well. The packages
must not be made too heavy. Music too may bo
tied up in the same way.
Clothing and personal belongings should also
be packed. These will go very well in boxes
and drawers. The latter can quite well be
utilised, as the men simply carry out the different
pieces of the chest, and put them in position
again in the van, and nothing can come to harm.
A towel or large cover should be laid over the
contents and well tucked in. Household Unen
should be packed away in the same manner.
If there is no room for blankets and eider-downs,
they can be made into a bale which can easily
be lifted. Silver and other valuables should be
put in a chest, and securely fastened.
The Removing. - This shoiild always be com-
menced early in the morning, at six o'clock in
the summer, and at eight o'clock in the winter at
the very latest. Althoiigh everything may be
left to the workmen, as a rule, it is better for the
members of the household to take a share in
order to expedite matters. In fact, if the re-
moval is to be got over rapidly, the only way is
for each one to give assistance where h'^ or she
can.
Beds and bedding should always be sent in
the first van, and placed where they will come
to hand easily at the other end. Things should,
as far as possible, leave the old house and arrive
at the new in the sequence in which it is most
convenient to handle them.
As soon as the packing into the van is well
on its way, a responsible person should, if
possible, act as pioneer and start for the new
house, so as to be on the spot when the first van
arrives to direct the carrying in of the furniture.
If this cannot be done, then each piece of furni-
ture should bo marked, or labelled, so as to in-
dicate the room for which it is destined. As
far as possible, each article should be carried
to its own room and nowhere else ; and in fact it
GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD WOKK
85
may, in many cases, be actually put down in its
proper place.
A strip of coarse matting should be laid over
each carpet, to prevent the meia's feet making
marks.
It is a good plan to get every bed that is to
be slept in put up and made early in the evening,
and then, even if it is ten o'clock before the last
vanful of furniture is unloaded, one can shut the
door and feel that at least a place of repose is
secure. Otherwise, one is inclined to go on
working at other things until a late hour, when
there is httle strength left to make a bed far
less put one together.
The question of refreshment on the day of
removal is also an important one. It is often a
saving of time if the men can be provided with
a lunch of bread and cheese, and beer or coffee ;
and if it is intimated to them beforehand that
this will be ready at a certain hour, it will save
their time going off to some pubhc-house in
order to get refreshments.
A good tea at the other end should also be
provided, if at aU possible.
For the members of the family, cold refresh-
ments, supplemented by hot drink, must suffice,
and those who are not strong enough to support
this frugal r6gime should be out of the way, if
possible, on the removal day. Of course it
sometimes happens that kind friends come
forward and invite the party to a comfortable
meal, and this of course is an untold blessing,
not only from the point of view of the mere
food question, but in regard to the respite
afforded from the bustle and hurry of the
day's work. Then at the other end, if a maid
can be sent over in good time to light a fire and
take a picnic basket wii/h her with necessaries
for tea, this little meal will prove a comfortable
welcome to the new home.
Settling Down. - As soon as the bedrooms
have been put fairly straight, it is perhaps best
to give one's first attention to the sitting-rooms
and kitchen, as when once these are in order
and meals can be served with comfort, the worst
of the removal is practically over.
The stair carpet and hall rugs should be put
down last of all, when all the carrying and extra
walking backwards and forwards is at an end.
Then there will no doubt be extra furniture
required, and additions of various kinds to
make, but it is just as well not to hurry the
buying of new things, as it is much more easy
to judge what is needed when everytiiing is in
its place, and one has been in the house for a
few days.
It will of course be weeks before all the odds
and ends are put finally in their places, but
these trifles do not matter, and once the real work
of removal is over and the new house begins to
look ship-shape, it should only bo a pleasure to
arrange the various trifles and knick-knacks to
one's liking.
SHUTTING UP A HOUSE
If a house has to be shut up for three months
or longer, it is better to lift all carpets, and to
take this opportunity of having them sent away
to be cleaned or beaten. Take down aU curtains
and other hangings, shake them well and fold
them up neatly. Remove all chair-covers, table-
covers, antimacassars, &c., brush or shake them,
and fold them up hkewise. Keep the furniture
as much as possible to the centre of the room,
where it will be safe from damp or soot, and
cover everything with dust-sheets or large sheets
of paper. Any valuable pictures should either
be taken down from the walls or covered with
fine gauze or muslin, to preserve them from dust.
Light and fragile articles, such as ornaments and
clocks, should also be covered in tins way.
All soiled Unen should be collected and sent
to the wash if possible.
Close and fasten aU windows, and leave nothing
open where rain can enter.
Grease any metal fenders or fixe-irons with
mutton fat, draw them away from the fixe-place,
and cover them over.
Turn off the gas from the main, and leave all
waste-pipes connected with the water open.
No food must be left behind, wliich would be
hkely to smell or encourage mice and other
vermin. Kitchen premises especially should be
left well swept and as clean as possible.
All valuables, such as silver and jewels, shovild
be packed in a strong box and sent to the bank.
Pull down all blinds, or if there is danger of
their being spoilt with the sun, cover the windows
with brown paper, fastening it up with strong
drawing-pins. Close and bolt the shutters, and
shut and lock all doors.
Notice should also be given to the poUce that
the house is closed, and they will give it special
attention.
WHAT TO DO IF FIRE OCCURS
Fire accidents, large or small, are liable to
occur in every house, and one ought to be pre-
pared to take the necessary precautions to pre-
vent the spreading of the flames.
In the case of a partial fire, speedy action may
be the means of putting it out at once. For
instance, if a curtain catches fire, which fre-
quently happens owing to its too close proxi-
mity to a gas-bracket, it should be pulled down
quickly (provided the person who does so is
clothed in a woollen dress), and the flames
crushed out with a piece of carpet or a rug, or,
if the damage has not gone very far, they might
be beaten out with a rug or wet cloth.
A wet blanket or cloth is valuable for beating
out flames wherever they are, or if the fire is
on the ground water may be pom-ed over it. A
syphon of soda-water is also a good fii'e-extin-
guisher, and in the case of sudden fire, Jire
86
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
grenades are excellent, and no large household
should be without them. All that is necessary
is to break the glass globe and sprinkle the con-
tents over the burning place.
Burning oil, as in the C£ise of a lamp being
overturned, should be extinguished by tlirowing
sand, earth, or ashes over it. Water would only
help to spread the flames.
If a person's clothing should catch fire the
wearer ought to at once tlirow herself down on
the floor and roll over and over, first wrapping
herself in a rug or any other heav-y woollen
article if anything of the kind is handy. If,
when the accident occurs, another person is
present, the latter should endeavour to ex-
tinguish the flames by covering the victim with
any hea%'y wooUen articles in reach, pressing
them well over her and forcing her to maintain
a recumbent position. Heavy table-clotlis are
amongst the best things to smother the flames.
It is a fatal thing for the burning person to rush
out and call for help : as long as the upright
position is retained the flames will spread, and it
is always the face and upper parts which will be
the most severely attacked.
In all cases of fire the doors and windows
should be kept closed as much as possible, as any
draught only helps to fan the flames ; smoke
follows the current of air, and flames follow the
smoke.
If the fire is of a more serious nature, the alarm
should be given at once and the fire-engines sent
for. Every effort must be made to escape and
to help others to escape by the first means of
egress. If aroused at night to find the house on
fiire, wrap yourself in a blanket or rug and get
out of the room at once. If the room is full of
smoke tie a wot towel or handkerchief or even a
wet stocking over the nose and mouth, and this
will exclude the smoke and still permit of breath-
ing. If the smoke is so dense that you are
unable to stand upright, crawl along on the hands
and knees, as the clearest air is always next the
floor.
Should the ascent and descent of the stairs be
impossible, try to make your way to the window
of a front room and if there are others in the
house try to get them to do Ukewise. Unless
some one is in the burning room the door should
not be opened, and no attempt must be made to
extinguish the fire until life has been saved.
On no account should you throw yourself
from the window, and if in extremity and
no assistance is at hand tear up the sheets
and tie the pieces together to form a rope,
allowing good ends so that the knots will not
slip. Fasten one end to a bedstead or other
heavy piece of furniture near the window. Then
slip the improvised rope out of the window and
let yourself down hand under hand, taking
advantage of the knots to keep yourself from
slipping too quickly.
Those who are helpless to let themselves down
should have the end of the sheet tied round
their waist and be lowered through the window.
A mattress should if possible be thrown out of
the window, as this might be the means of
softening a fall if the sheet should happen to be
too short.
The most important thing in all cases of fire
is not to lose one's presence of mind and not to
waste a moment in taking action.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
This article deals with all that a housewife should know in regard to the management of the
culinary department of her household. Useful hints are given as to the suitable ftirnishing and
efficient cleaning of the kitchen premises, care of the kitchen range, and cooking by gas, electricity,
and on oil-stoves. Each aspect of the commissariat department has also been considered, including
such iniportant questions as the marketing and storing of provisions. The article concludes with
a complete calendar of meat, fish, poultry, game, fruit and vegetables in season, which has been
compiled for the purposes of easy reference.
HOW TO FURNISH A KITCHEN AND
1 SCULLERY
The furnishings and fittings of the kitchen
premises are very important - so much of the
comfort of the household depends upon this de-
partment and the way in which it is managed
that it is well worth while to fit it up comfort-
ably and suitably. When we consider that ser-
vants not only have to live in a kitchen as we
live in our dining-room and drawing-room, but
that their weekly " afternoons " or " evenings
out " constitute the only change they have from
their surroundings, we ought to try to give the
room in which they spend so much of their
time as homeUke an appearance as possible.
It often happens, however, that people who
are most particular about having the other
rooms of their house dainty and comfortable
grudge the bare necessaries when anything in
connection with the kitchen is concerned.
The kitchen itself should be bright, airy,
and roomy. Unfortunately, it is not always
possible to have all these conditions fulfilled,
especially where there are underground premises
and an area, and the kitchen -window looks
out on to a stone wall, but in such cases
the best must be made of a bad job and
a few additional inside comforts must make
up for the want of outside dew. Sometimes
the hght in premises of this kind may be in-
creased by having the oatside wall painted
white or a light cream colour.
The ventilation must be good, and in addition
to the doors and windows it is well to have a
ventilator placed in the wall above the height
of the window to allow the fumes of cooking to
escape.
The sanitary arrangements should also be
carefully attended to, and there must be a good
supply of water.
The kitchen ought to be within easy reach
87
of the dining-room, and yet so placed that the
odours of cooking do not reach other parts of
the house. The larder and storeroom should
also be close at hand to avoid any vmnecessary
going backwards and forwards from one place
to the other.
Walls and Ceilings. - The ceiling of the kitchen
ought to be smoothly plastered and then white-
washed. This whitewash must be renewed
every year, not only for cleanliness, but also to
give more light. For the waUs glazed tiles are
the ideal covering, as they can so easily be
washed, or a high-tiled dado with distemper or
other suitable finish above. But both these
methods of wall -covering prove somewhat ex-
pensive, and people of moderate means have
to content themselves with sometliing a Httle
cheaper. The walls may be washed all over
with a simple distemper, and as this process
costs very Uttle the distemper may be renewed
whenever it becomes dirty. Pretty Hght
colours, such as buff, pink, pale blue, or pale
green are the most effective. Varnished paper
makes another appropriate covering ; it leists
well, looks bright, and can very easily be cleaned ;
or, again, the Sanitary or so-called Washable
paper might be used - this is less expensive than
varnished paper, but it will not last so well nor
stand so much cleaning. Specially prepared
paints, such as Ripohn, Sanalene, and Muraline
are also to be recommended ; they are to be had
in a variety of shades, and make a kitchen look
very pretty. Tlie woodwork in the kitchen
should either be painted the same colour as
the walls in a darker shade, or with wliite paint
or a light oak stain.
The Floor. - Tlie flooring of a kitchen varies
very much according to locality. In some
parts of the country we find red flags, in others
glazed tiles, in others red or yeUow bricks, con-
crete, or wooden boards, &c. Wlien the floor
consists of flags, tiles, or bricks it does not, "is
88
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
a rule, require fxirther covering, eis it can be
easily washed, and one or two rugs or mats for
standing on 6ire all that is necessary. But when
there is a wooden floor it is important to cover
it with some material that is easily washed, as
boards soon become soiled and are very difficult
to keep in order. Good linoleum is the best
kitchen floor -covering, and one with a pattern
is to be preferred to a perfectly plain one, as
it does not show meirks so quickly. Inlaid
linoleum is the best, as its pattern is ingrained
in the material, and although the initial outlay
is greater it comes cheaper in the end, as it is
so much more durable than the other makes.
(See also p. 21.)
Fixtures. - The number of immovable fixtures
in a kitchen varies considerably with the style
of the house - they usually comprise a dresser,
shelves, cupboards, a pulley for hanging up
towels, &c., a roller for towel, gas or electric
fittings, bells, sink and kitchen range or stove.
The dresser is really the kitchen sideboard,
and as a rule it is fitted against one of the walls
and belongs to the house. If it has to be made
to order, take careful
measurements of the
wall space you can allow
and have it made to fit.
The upper part is usually
made with grooved
shelves, on which the
plates and dishes of the
dinner-service are kept,
or it may be fitted with
shelves for jars with
hooks along the edge of
the shelf on which to
hang small utensils. The
top part of the dresser
gives room for soup-
tiu-een, vegetable dishes,
sauce-boats, knife-tray,
weights and scales, &c.
- beneath there should be two or three drawers
for holding spoons, knives, &c., and kitchen
towels, while the lower part is fitted up with
cupboards for holding dishes and the larger
cookery utensils. If the kitchen is small, make
the most of it by using the walls. It is a good
plan to have a shelf carried roimd all the
available wall space, and just as high as a
servant can reach. When a number of hooks
Kre required a strip of wood might be fixed
below the shelf, and nails or hooks put into that.
It is a bad practice to drive nails into the
wall itself, as they are sure to come out and
bring some of the plaster with them.
Then there should be a well-constructed sink.
Stone-ware or tiled sinks are the best, as they
are the easiest to clean and keep in good order.
The back of the sink should be made of some
material which will not spoil with the splashing
of the water; if not already fitted with tiles.
Kitchen Dresser.
a sheet of zinc might be fitted up or a sheet of
" Emdeca," wliich is an imitation of tiles and
very practical. (See p. 14.) Above the sink
should be a plate-rack in which plates can be
drained, and the necessity of drying thus avoided.
Underneath might be one or two shelves or a
Plate-Eack.
small cupboard for keeping cleaning requisites
- and at the right-hand side of the sink a
sloping grooved board on which to lay dishes.
Sec, to drain. A flap table might also be
arranged at the side on which to place dishes
when they are dried if table space is scanty.
If there is a separate scullery this would
naturally contain the sink, &c., and here all
the washing up would be done. Tlio walls of
the scullery should be lined with shelves,
and as much as possible made of the available
space. Tlie shelves on wliich saucepans are
placed shoTjld be sparred, as this allows the air
to get inside to dry them. If there is not much
room for sheKdng, a saucepan-stand which can
be placed either in kitchen or scullery is often
found most valuable. A small cupboard or
shelves underneath the sink
wiU be found useful for keep-
ing cleaning materials. Tlie
scullery, like the kitchen,
should be light and well
ventilated, and unless the
floor is tiled or flagged it
should be covered in the
same way.
Cupboard accommodation
is also most valuable in a
kitchen. If this is inade-
quate, it is sometimes pos-
sible to have a cupboard
fitted up on the wall for
holding a small store of
provisions. A recess or a
corner can also be utilised Saucepan-Stand.
for this purpose, and a joiner
will be able to fit up a few shelves with a
simple door at a very small cost.
Every kitchen should be supplied with a
pulley on which to dry kitchen towels (unless
those can be hung elsewhere) and also a roller
with brackets on which to hang a roller-towel.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
89
The lighting of the kitchen is another im-
portant point, and the light, whether it be gas
or electricity, should be so arranged as to make
it possible to see clearly both at the table and
at the stove.
The Kitcheu Range. - The most important
fixture of all is the kitchen range. It is impos-
sible to do good cooking vfithout a good stove.
The open grate limits one's sphere of work con-
siderably, and there is always the risk of getting
food smoky and saucepans dirty. It is certainly
best for roasting (a roast never tastes so well
as when cooked in front of an open fire), also
for broiling and grilUng, but with these its
merits end. An open range is scarcely to be
seen now in modern houses, the kitchener or close
range has taken its place.
There is an endless variety of kitcheners, all
more or less similar but going under different
names. A tenant has not usually a choice in
this matter, but before taking a house it should
always be seen that a proper stove has been
provided and that it is in good working order.
In choosing or bujdng a stove, do not look
out for the cheapest kind procurable, but buy
one of a thoroughly good make, and have it
well fitted up. The material must be good.
Cheap stoves are usually made of some Hght
metal which wears out very quickly, causing
great waste of fuel and much annoyance as
well, while a weU-constructed one will be made
of malleable iron, wrought iron or steel.
A good stove should be provided with an
adjustable bottom, which can be raised or
lowered according to the size of fire required.
Thus, when the stove is not being used for
cooking purpose? the fire may still be kept in
and the water wai'ineo, but with a very small
consumption of fuel. There should also be a
well-ventilated oven, a good boiler and water-
supply, and a plate-rack on wliich to warm
dishes.
The best type of stove is usually convertible
into an open range, and a cheerful fire can be
arranged in the evening by simply sliding back
the top plate, .i.
It is a good plan to have a light screen made
which can be hooked on to the front of the fire,
as this serves as a great protection when any one
has to stand near the stove to stir a sauce or
do other cooking.
Very often the reason why a kitchen range
does not burn well is that it is not understood.
It is important, therefore, that both mistress
and servant should thoroughly understand the
working of it, and also the method of cleaning
before the stove is condemned as being in-
efSciont. For cleaning, see p. 91.
Furniture. - For the ordinary kitchen there is
very Uttle movable fiu-niture required. Tlie
table is the chief article, and this ought to bo
as large as is convenient. If there is not much
floor space available it is better to have it
made with flaps, wliich can easily be put down
when not in use. It ouglit to bo made of plain
unpainted deal, and should be of a convenient
height to work at and very steady on its legs.
Ivitchen tables are generally made oblong with
one or two drawers at the ends, which are
always an advantage. Sometimes too a narrow
shelf is put underneath on which articles can
be placed when cooking is being done, thus
keeping the table itself more clear.
In larger kitchens a second table wiU always
be found useful - a smaller and hghter one wliich
can be moved about, or even a collapsible one
wluch can be put aside when necessary.
A fender may also be required and a simple
curb is all that is necessary, although one made
of steel will of course bo more ornamental. In
very small kitchens the fender might be dis-
pensed with altogether, and a hght
screen hooked on to the front of the
fire to prevent the cinders faUing out
will take up much loss space. A
strong poker, coal shovel and scuttle
should also be provided. The best
shape of scuttle is that known as a Coal-Hod.
coal-hod ; it takes up little room,
and is not easily knocked over like the scoop
shape. The flue-rake and flue-brush are gener-
ally supphod as part of the stove.
The chairs should be of plain varnished wood,
and the nimiber wiU depend upon how many
maids there are - ^there should be one for each and
one over. Tlian if the Idtchen is used as the
maid's sitting-room, there ought to be one or two
comfortable chairs for resting in the evening.
Strong wicker ones or the hght-coloured Windsor
ai'm-chairs are both suit-
able- or even camp-chairs
■with a strong carpet cover
might be used, as they can
be folded up during the day
and put out of the way.
In any ca;Se it should be
remembered that our maids
require something a little
better than a straight-
backed wooden seat when
their day's work is over.
One or two strong rugs
should also be supplied -
sometliing of a nice bright colovu*. Pieces of
stout carpet neatly bound at the edges will
serve the purpose very well. A rule should
be made that these rugs are rolled up at night
and not put down again until the prmcipal
work in the kitchen is finished the following
day.
A dark serge cloth might also be supplied
to cover one of the tables and give it a less
forbidding appearance.
The arrangement of the window depends
very much upon the style of the house. As a
rule, a short muslin curtain across the Mrindow
Windsor Chair.
90
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
%
is all that is necessary and all there is room for.
Madras or strong washing muslin is tho best
to use for the purpose, or, if preferred, a light
casement cloth ; but it must be of a material
that will wash well and not lose its colour in the
tub. The curtain should be simply made with
a hem top and bottom. If tho window is wide
it may be better made in two parts with a
division in tlie middle, but, if narrow, it will
look better in one piece. The curtain should be
half as wide again as the width of the window
to allow for fulness. A hght brass rod should
be fitted across the window at a convenient
height and the curtain fixed to that either by
means of small rings or by slipping the rod
through the upper hem of the curtain. If the
kitchen is large and the window wide, short side-
curtains, of some pretty cretonne, linen, or
casement cloth might add very much to the
comfortable appearance of the room. These
are easily washed, and, provided they arc
not made too long, they will not be found an
inconvenience. A simple brass or bamboo rod
should be fixed across the window and the
curteiins attached to that by means of rings sewn
on to the upper hem or heading. By this
means the curtains can easily be slipped off
when they require wasliing.
A good clock must not be forgotten when
furnishing the kitchen - either one to hang on
the wall above the kitchen mantelpiece or a
small aliirm clock, wliich can easily be caxried
about or taken to the maid's bedroom at
night.
Utensils. - The number and kind of utensils
must be determined somewhat by the size and
circumstances of the household.
Unless there is a kitchen-maid it is a mistake
to buy a largo quantity of utensils which require
polishing and keeping bright. In fact, it is
never wise to buy too many to begin with ; the
more you have the more there will be to keep
in order, and when means are limited and
service difficult to procure it is much wiser to
start with what is strictly necessary and add
by degrees to the supply.
In small houses and flats the kitchen utensils
must be reduced to a minimum. Shelf accom-
modation is scarce and there are few if any
cupboards ; large and heavy saucepans would
then be quite out of place and a multifarious
collection of moulds and dishes only in the way.
At the same time it is unreasonable to expect
dainty cooking to be done without implements,
and every facility should be given to those who
undertake the work.
It will generally be found that the better the
cook the fewer utensils she will require, but
still maids have difJerent ways of working, and
it is always wise to give them what they ask
for within reasonable limits.
And, again, when service is short an effort
should be made to give as many labour-saving
appliances as possible, such aa a knife -cleaner,
a mincing machine, a gas stove or gas ring, &c.
Whatever is bought should be good of its
kind. Buy plain and well-made articles and they
will l£ist a lifetime.
Saucepans. - Except for a large estabUshment
where cooking has to be done in big quantities
it is a mistake to invest in a number of heavy
iron saucepans. One or two will be quite
sufficient. The others might be made of steel,
copper, aluminium, enamelled tin, or fire-proof
w£ire.
Both steel and copper saucepans are excellent
and very durable, but they are expensive to buy,
and those made of copper are liable to verdigris
unless well looked after.
Tlie enamelled tin saucepans will be found
most useful, but they should be bought in a
good quality. The hard grey enamel lasts
better than the white, and will stand any
amount of hard wear. The cheap make of
this kind of saucepan should be avoided, as
the lining soon begins to crack and peal off
and then they become dangerous to use.
Aluminium saucepans are also to be recom-
mended, and they are rapidly supplanting all
others made of metal, as they are absolutely
safe from all fear of verdigris and they do not
rust. They are easily cleaned (see p. 93), and
nothing could be hghter to handle.
Then there are the clay terrines and brown
stoneware saucepans, so dear to the heart of
the French housevnfe, and which are coming
more and more into favour in this country
(see p. 148).
When once a trial has been made of the
lighter style of saucepan, there will seldom be
a return to the heavy iron make which are such
a labour to clean, not to speak of the lifting.
The following list of utensils with approxi-
mate prices may prove useful to those who are
starting housekeeping for the first time. It is
suitable for a small house with one or two
servants.
s. d.
1 Galvanised bath 2 2
1 Galvanised pail 10
I Tin enamelled basin 10
1 Fish-kettle 3 3
1 Frying-pan 10
1 Iron stewpan 2 0
1 Iron saucepan 19
2 Enamelled saucepans. Is. 3d., Is. 9d. . 3 0
or 2 Earthenware saucepans .... 2 0
or 2 Aluminium saucepans 3 6
1 Iron kettle 3 6
1 Tin kettle 16
1 Wire sieve 12
1 Cooking board 2 3
1 Pot-rest 3
1 Rolling-pin 6
1 Flour dredger 6
1 Sugar dredger 6
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
91
8. d.
1 Funnel 3
1 Cork-screw G
1 pair of scissors 10
1 Tin-opener 4
2 Oven tins 14
1 Cake tin 8
1 Tray 2 0
1 Sink tidy frorn 6J
1 Gridiron or hanging grill 1 4|
1 Steamer 6 0
1 Set of skewers 6
1 Grater 7
1 Poker 9
1 Egg whisk 6
1 Soap dish 4
1 Jelly mould 10
1 dozen patty pans 4
1 Palette knife 10
1 Cook's knife 13
2 Table knives and forks 1 10
1 Potato knife 4^
2 Iron spoons 6
2 Wooden spoons 5
2 Dessert spoons 8
2 Tea spoons 4
1 Toasting fork 4^
1 Gravy strainer 10
1 Knife-board 10
1 Pepper and salt box 9
1 Shovel 6
1 Coal-scuttle 1 11
1 Roasting tin and stand 16
1 Long broom 16
1 Yard broom 14
1 Set shoe brushes 2 9
1 Set stove brushes 2 9
1 Sweep's brush 9
2 Scrubbing brushes 16
1 Nail brush 2
2 Egg-brushes 3
1 Sink brush 6
1 Dish mop 4i
3 Jugs 1 O'
2 Pie dishes 16
2 Pudding bowls 12
1 Large mixing bowl 10
2 Breakfast cups and saucers .... 11
0 Plates assorted 16
3 Dishes 2 9
1 Sugar-basin 4
1 Salt-cellar 3
1 Lemon squeezer 4|
Jars and tins will also be required for kitchen
use, but it is seldom necessary to buy these.
The following might be added if means allow -
6. d.
1 Mincing machine 4 8
1 Spring balance 5 0
1 Meat-saw 2 6
1 Knife-sharpener 10
1 Box-cutter 10
8. d.
6 Small moulds 10
1 Frying basket 16
1 Set of steps 5 0
1 Omelet pan 16
2 Sandwich cake tins 10
1 Preserving pan 4 0
2 Fancy moulds 3 0
1 Pestle and mortar 3 0
1 Fish slice 8
1 Vegetable presser 16
1 Flour tub or crock 2 6
The above does not include utensils for
laimdry work. See under special heading.
If the housemaids' utensils are not separate,
the following brushes, &c., will be required iii
addition for household use : -
8. d.
1 Plate brush 9
1 Carpet whisk 2 6
1 Double banister bnosh 2 9
1 Dust pan 10
Note. - If there are several servants they
should be allowed inexpensive crockery and
glass for their own table use apart from the
dishes used for cooking.
The Cleaning of the Kitchen and Kitchen
Utensils. - The kitchen may be cleaned either
all in one day or by degrees. The latter method
is generally found the most convenient, as it is
less obtrusive and does not upset the comfort
of the house so much. The saucepans and tins
may be cleaned one day, cupboards and windows
another, larder, passages, and outside premises
another, flues and range another, with the
scrubbing of the floors and tables, &c., to follow.
This is entirely a matter of arrangement
and must be planned to suit the ways and cir-
cumstances of each individual household.
An effort shoiild be made to have the cleaning
done early in the day or at a time when there is
no special cooking to attend to.
Instructions for the various cleaning opera-
tions will be found below. (See also Duties of
the Cook, p. 49.)
How to Clean a Kitchen Range - Weekly
Cleaning. - A large strong apron, or overall, a
pair of gloves, and a cap which covers the heiir
should be worn when doing this piece of work.
The kitchen, too, should be prepared by remo%-ing
or covering with a dust-sheet or sheets of
paper anything that is likely to be soiled with
dust. Remove any kettles and saucepans from
the top of the range and put the fender, plate-
rack, and fire-irons to one side. Put down a
hearth cloth and have sweep's brush, flue rake
and brush, shovel and black-lead brushes in
readiness. Commence by raking out the fire,
and be particular to pass the rake well to the
back to get all the cinders out of the boiler
flue. Brush out oil cinders and ashes and
save the former for making the fire later on.
92
THE wo:man's book
To clean the flues commence at the top.
Open the dampers and the httle doors or slides
at the entrance to the flue or flues. Pass the
flue brush up as far as it will go, then to the sides
and tlien downwards, working it well against
the side of the flue. The loose soot will all fall
downwards to the back of the stove and will be
removed later on. In a large stove there may
be two or even three flues and each one must
bo done in the same way. Brush the top of
the dampers and brush the flue doors or slides
and put them back in place.
Now remove all rings and tops from the
top of the stove and brush all the soot oflE
the top of the oven with the sweep's brush,
letting it fall either down the side of the oven
or into the fire-place - the former is the simpler.
Also pass the flue brush down the sides and back
of the oven if there is an opening. Brush the
under -side of all the top pieces and put them
back in place. If there is a boiler or second
oven at the other side of the range the top and
sides of this must be cleaned in the same way.
Every part must be freed from soot, and always
work from the top downwards.
\Vhen the top part is finished remove the httle
door or shde wlaich will be found underneath
the oven, put a good-sized shovel below it, pass
the flue rake in at the hole and draw out all the
soot. Repeat the same at the other side if
necessary. The soot must be taken outside at
once, and if there is a garden it should be kept
for manuring purposes.
Next dust the stove all over, and if the top is
greasy wash it with hot water and soda. Thor-
oughly dust or brush out the oven. If the
shelves £ire greasy wash them out with hot water
and soda, then whiten thfem with a paste of
whitening and water, which will give them a
nice clean appearance.
To Black-lead the Stove. - Apply the black-
lead very lightly with the black-lead brush, com-
mencing with the highest part of the stove and
doing a small piece at a time. Brush ofi with
the hard briish and polish with the polisher
(see p. 65).
If there are tiles at the back of the stove
these must be washed over with a soft cloth,
soap, and water, or, if stained, with Brook's soap
or sapolio.
Clean all steel parts with fine emery paper or
with fine bath-brick dust made into a paste with
paraflin (see p. 72).
Lay the fire, using the cinders along with some
small coal, sticks, and paper.
Sweep the hearth, wash it over with warm
water, and whiten with soft sandstone. Put
back the fender, fire-irons, &c., and put a light
to the fire if required.
Dally Cleaning. - The fire should be well raked
out every day, the top of the stove brushed with
the sweep's brush and polished with the stove
bnishes. Black-leading should not be required
more than once a week, except perhaps on the
special parts which tire much used.
Rub up the steel parts with emery paper, or
wipe them with a soft duster or selvyt cloth,
and clean the hearth.
If properly done, the flues should not require
cleaning more than once a week, but if a largo
fire is kept constantly bui'ning it may be neces-
sary to brush over the top of the oven more
frequently - sometimes, too, in the case of small
stoves the flues require cleaning more than once
a week. This must bo regulated according to
how the stove burns.
Cleaning Saucepans. - Clean saucepans form
one of the first essentials of good cooking. " You
can judge a workman by liis tools " cannot be
better appUed than to a cook, as no woman
who has any pride in her profession would put
up with such a thing as a dirty saucepan. They
ought to be her special pride and care.
Now that saucepans are used almost entirely
on gas-stoves and close ranges whore there is
no smoking from an open fire, there is no excuse
for having tho outside coated with soot or black
grease which comes off on everything that
touches it. The handle and outside of the
saucepan should receive the same attention as
the inside.
As soon as a saucepan is finished with, it
should be filled with warm water and left soaking
until it can be cleaned.
Care must be taken not to pour cold water
into a hot enamelled saucepan or there will be
danger of cracking the hning ; in fact it is
always a risky thing to do if the pan is very hot.
Saucepans should be cleaned as soon as possible
after they are taken from the fire and never
allowed to remain dirty overnight except under
very special circumstances.
The method of cleaning will depend somewhat
upon the Idnd of saucepan, but the rule that they
must be properly clean and fi'ee from taint of
any kind apphos to all.
If the contents of a saucepan have become
burnt boil some hot water and soda in it before
attempting to do the cleaning.
No saucepan must be laid away before it is
perfectly dry unless it is placed wliere the air
can reach the inside, tis on a sparred shelf.
Iron Saucepans. - Wash them well in hot
water and soda, scrubbing inside and out with
a pot brush. Use a little sand, if necessary,
to make them clean. Tlie sand must be used
almost dry or it will not have so much power.
When clean, rinse thoroughly so as to get rid
of any grit and dry with a coarse cloth.
Enamelled Saucepans. - Wash well in hot
water and soda, and then apply a little Brook's
soap or sapolio to take off any marks or dis-
coloration. Salt or fine silver sand may also
be used, or even crushed egg-shells ai'o very
good for whitening the enamel. Rinse thor-
oughly and dry with a cloth.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
93
Tin and Steel Saucepans. - Clean in the same
way as enamelled saucepans.
Earthenware Saucepans. - Wash first in hot
soapy water, then apply a little fine sand or
sapolio, if necessary, to remove any marks.
Rinse thoroughly and dry with a stout cloth.
Copper Saucepans. - These require very special
care, as, if once neglected, they are apt to har-
bour verdigris, wliich is very poisonous. For this
reason the tinned linings should always be kept
intact, and directly there are signs of wear and
the copper begins to show through the saucepans
should be sent away to be re -tinned.
Clean the inside of copper saucepans with a
mixture of soft soap and Brook's soap or soft
soap and fine silver sand apphed with a piece of
flannel or soft cloth wrung out of warm water.
For the outside use the skin of a lemon dipped
in bath-brick dust, or salt and vinegar applied
with a flannel. Well rinse the saucepan with
hot water and dry quickly and thoroughly.
The outside may be further polished by rubbing
it up with a little dry whitening.
Aluminium Saucepans. - Wash well with hot
soapy water, using a little silver sand if necessary
to remove any discoloration or burnt matter.
Rinse thoroughly first in hot and then in cold
water and then dry with a soft cloth. Soda
must on no account be used with aliiminium
ware, and patent cleaning mixtures should also
be avoided. The outside may be polished
occasionally with metal polish.
The vessels should not be scraped, nor
should the liglit brown enamel which will form
inside be disturbed, as it is not only quite
harmless, but adds considerably to tho life of
the articles.
Wooden Articles. - An effort should be made
to make kitchen tables, boards, and wooden
utensils as white as possible. The following
will be required for cleaning them : a pail or
basin of warm water, a piece of house flannel,
scrubbing brush, sand, soap, and a stout cloth
for drying. Wash the wood over with the
flannel wrung out of warm water. Rub a little
soap on the brush, dip in sand and scrub with
the grain of the wood. Rinse weU in order to
remove all grit and dry quickly with a clean
cloth. Soda should not be used, as it tends to
discolour the wood. Sand helps to whiten it.
^Vlien cleaning a kitchen-table the legs should
not be forgotten. If plain wood they may be
scrubbed in the same way as the top, but if
painted they must only be wiped over with a
damp flannel and di-ied.
Wooden utensils must not be put too near a
fire to dry or they will warp ; they ought to be
placed upright where the air will get round
them.
Sieves. - A sieve should be cleaned as soon as
possible after it has been used. If any substance
is allowed to harden on it the cleaning will be
much more diflficult. Wash thoroughly with a
little hot water and soda and scrub well with a
bnish. If it is a wire sieve hold it up to the
light and see that none of the Httle holes are
blocked up. Be particular also to scrub well
round the sides where the rim joins the surface
part. Rinse well and dry with a strong cloth.
The sieve should then be put in a warm place
to dry. If this is not attended to a wire sieve
will become rusty and a hair one coated with
mildew.
Sieves mxist always be kept in a dry and clean
place.
Tin Lids, Moulds, and Dish Covers. - Hot water
with a little soap powder or plain soap should
be used for wasliing these. They must be well
rinsed and then dried at once.
Saucepan lids should be washed or at least
well wiped with a cloth each time after use.
The rim must have special attention, as any
grease from a stew or such-hke wiU lodge there.
It is a good plan to give all saucepan lids a good
washing once a week.
A brvish may be used when washing fancy
moixlds of any kind. When the insides become
difficult to clean the moulds should be put into
a saucepan with hot water and a little soda, and
boiled for half-an-hour. This will loosen any
matter or burnt pieces which may adhere to
them. They may also be secured with a little
silver sand, or Brook's soap may be used to
remove any discoloration. Thorough rinsing
wiU be necessary.
All tinned goods must be well dried before
being put away, as they are liable to rust.
Polishing. - Tins that are put up for show may
be polished to make them look bright, but this
should never be attempted before making sure
that they are quite free from grease. IMake a
smooth pastљ with a Httle whitening and water
- rub this on the tins with a piece of flannel, and,
when dry, rub off with a duster. A soft brush
may be used to remove the whitening from any
corners. The inside of moulds should never
be polished.
A few drops of ammonia may be added to the
whitening, but as the tinning of some moulds and
lids is very tliin, strong cleansers should as a rule
be avoided.
Zinc. - Sometimes the surround of a sink is
covered with zinc, and tliis may be cleaned in
the following way : Scrub first with hot soapy
water to which a little soda has been added.
Rinse and dry. The zinc may then be polished
with a little whitening mixed to a paste with
turpentine. Apply with a piece of flannel,
and when dry rub off with a duster.
To Clean Floors, Linoleum, &c. - See " Work
of the House," p. 66.
Baking Tins. - Wash well in very hot water
with a little soda in it, using a strong brush and
a little sand if necessary. Rinse well and dry
with a coarse cloth. If a roasting-tin has
become very brown and is hard to clean, let it
u
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
soak in hot water and soda for an hour or two
to soften the burnt substance.
Kitchen Knives and Forks. - Wipe these with
a cloth wrung out of liot water to remove any
grease, but do not allow them to lie in hot water,
wliich would tend to loosen the handles. Then
rub off any stains with a little Brook's soap or
sapoho applied rather dry on a piece of flannel.
Rinse off and dry with a knife-cloth. It is not
necessary to polish kitchen knives on a knife-
board ; it only wears them vmnecessarily.
Kitchen Cloths. - At the end of the day all
cloths which have been used and are soiled
should be washed in soapy water with a little
soda ; then thoroughly rinsed, wrung out, and
hung up to drj'. At the end of the week they
ought to be laid aside in order to have a more
thorough washing with the rest of the household
linen (see p. 276), and a fresh supply put into
use.
Pudding Cloths. - After a pudding cloth has
been used it should be tlirown into hot water
with a little soda and allowed to soak for half-
an-hour or so. Then wash out and rinse with
care until no trace of the soda water remains.
Dry in the open air if possible. Fold up care-
fully and keep in a clean place. A pudding
cloth must only be used for its own special
purpose. If the above process is not sufficient
to make the cloth clean it ought to be boiled
in a saucepan for half-an-hoirr with hot water
and a small piece of soda and then rinsed in the
same way. The use of soap and soap powder
should bo avoided as far as possible.
Jelly Cloths. - Wash in the same way as
pudding cloths.
Care of the Sink. - This is a very important
matter in the management of the kitchen and
scullery, and a sink left in a dirty and greasy
state, especially the last thing at night, will at
once denote a careless and untidy worker.
Every sink should be provided with a sink
basket or tidy and a sink brush. The former is
Sink Bafiket.
xised to place over the opening to keep back any
tea-leaves, vegetable parings, or other refuse
which might block the pipe. An old colander
will servo the purpose very well.
Do not throw anything but water down a sink,
anf' if the water is greasy flush it well afterwards
with hot soapy water. It is a good plan also to
pour down some very hot soda and water when
the washing up is finished.
If water in which vegetables have been cooked
is not kept for making soup, it should never be
poured down a sink, as it would cause an un-
pleasant smell, but should bo emptied straight
into a drain or outside in the garden.
An effort should be made to keep the pipe and
trap (an elbow -like bend in the pipe just below
Sink Brush.
the sink) in good order by preventing grease and
refuse collecting in them. If tliese become
choked and clogged an unnecessary expense
must be incurred to have them cleared out, not
to speak of the annoyance. Do not be afraid
of plenty of hot water when washing up ; it is
greasy luke-warm water which clogs the pipe
sooner than anything.
WTien the washing up is finished the sink
should be well scrubbed out with some hot
water and soda and a little soap, rinsed with hot
water, and then finally the cold pipe should be
allowed to run. If the sink is discoloured, use
a Uttle sand or Brook's soap. The sink brush
and any dish clothes must also be washed out
and hung up to dry. Also any tub or basin that
has been used for weishing up.
Refuse. - In every household there must
necessarily be a certain amount of rubbish to
dispose of consisting of ashes, sweepings from
floors, broken crockery, old tins, food remains,
&c.
Part of this refuse should be put into a dust-
bin or ash-pit, with either of which every house
should be provided, while the remainder should
be burnt.
The ash-pit is more frequently found in country
districts where the removal of rubbish cannot be
so frequent as in towns. It is usually built of
brick or stone and should be well cemented and
placed at some distance from the house.
The best kind of dust-bin is one made of
galvanised iron and round in shape. The size
wiU depend upon the needs of the hou&ohold,
but it is better to have two, if necessary, of a
medium size than one that is too heavj' to be
lifted. Those dust-bins are very often provided
by the landlord and belong to tlie house.
There should always be a hd to fit the dust-
bin to prevent damp from entering or dust from
flying about. It should be placed at least a
few feet from the house and never near a win-
dow, and it must be removed and thoroughly
emptied by the dustman twice or at least once
a week.
Nothing but dry refuse should be put into a
dust-bin unless it can be emptied very frequently,
as damp favours decomposition and very soon
causes an unpleasant and very unhealthy smell.
Animal and vegetable refuse in this case is better
burnt, and if there is a kitchen range in use it
FOOD AND THE KITCHEX
Ud
should not be a difficult matter to dispose of all
vegetable payings, tea-leaves, and such -like by
this means.
There are two ways of burning food remains.
They may either be dried slowly at the back of
the fire or underneath the grate, after which
they will burn quite readilj% or they may be
put into the stove in small quantities when the
fire is very bright and hot enough to consume
them quickly. If refuse is put on to a low fire
in a damp condition it will cause a most un-
pleasant smell.
Needless to say, it is the duty of the mistress
to see that nothing is thrown out or burnt
except that which is absolutely of no value.
In some houses the dust-bin is one of the most
fruitful soiu-ces of waste. (See Law in regard to
Removal of Refuse, p. 382.)
COOKING BT GAS
Gas Stoves. - There is much to be said in favour
of a gas stove, and if properly managed it can
be a great saving of time, labour, and expense.
It can either be used to supplement a kitchen
range where there is a large amount of cooking
to be done, or in small houses it can be made to
take the place of a coal stove altogether.
It is especially useful in flats where ladies
very often have to do all their own work or the
Breakfast Cooker.
greater part of it themselves, and where actual
labour mtist be reduced to a minimum.
If the whole stove is not required and the
oven part would be of Uttle or no use, a small
griller or even a gas ring is often a great com-
fort and saving. It can be placed on the top
Gas Boiling Ring.
of the range or on a small table in the scullery,
and will often save the keeping up of a fire for
the sake of boiling a kettle or doing some light
cooking in the evening. A httle griller would
also be found a great boon in the morning when
an early breakfast has to be prepared, as it will
not only boil a kettle but make toast or grill
fish or bacon at the same time. A very nice
griller and boiler can be bought for 7s. 6d. or
8s. 6d., wlxile a small boiling ring will only
cost two or three shillings plus the india-rubber
tubing (6d. to 9d. per foot) required for attaching
it to a gas bracket.
Gas stoves can be had in different sizes and
various makes. Improvements are constantly
being made, and there is great competition
among the different makers as to who will pro-
duce the most perfect article. Before bujdng
one it is a good plan to go to one of the Gas
Company's offices or exhibitions where all
the different kinds of stoves are displayed, and
where they can often be seen in actual use.
The newest make of gas cookers is well raised
above the floor, which saves a great deal of un-
necessary stooping, and also does away with the
necessity of having a slab on which to place the
stove for the sake of protection. Those with
enamelled Hnings are the most easily kept in
order. The size chosen must depend upon the
amount of cooking to be done and the oven
space required, and also upon the size of the
kitchen. It is a mistake to have one larger
than necessary, as it always means a greater
consumption of gas to heat the oven, &c.
Tlie price of gas stoves runs from about £4
to £12 according to size, while they can also be
hired at a rental of about 2s. 3d. per quarter
and upwards. In fact, in many cases it is
better to hire than to purchase, as the Gas Com-
pany not only supply the stove but keep it
in repair, and will change it when desired for one
of another description.
It is very important to have a gas stove
properly fitted up and to see that there is the
necessary ventilation. The work should be
put into the hands of a capable workman,
because tmless the pipe to which the stove is
connected is of the right size and there is suffi-
cient pressure of gas, the stove will not work
properly. It is sometimes a good plan to have
a separate meter for the gas stove in order to
regulate the consumption of gas.
How to Use a Gas Stove. - It is also very
important to know how to use a gas stove,
otherwise there may be great waste of gas and
many spoilt dishes.
Tlie Gas Companies give special demonstra-
tions all over the country where the working
of the various stoves is fully explained and a
cookery lesson given at the same time. Tliey
are also beginning to send out lady demonstrators
to private houses to show how each part of the
stove should be used in order to secm-e the best
possible results for the smallest consumption of
gas ; but the hints given below may be of use
to those who cannot avail themselves of these
special lessons.
Every gets stove is provided with several
biu-ners on the top and each btirner has a special
96
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
tap in connection witli it. There will also be a
special tap for the oven.
A taper is preferable to matches for lighting
the gas.
Do not turn on more taps than are actually
required at one time, and be careful to tiu-n off
the gas directly you Imve finished using it.
V\lien about to uso the oven open the door
first, turn on the gas, and then apply the light.
Be sure that all the little burners inside are
lighted and on both sides. If they shoiild become
clogged with grease or other matter the little
holes must be cleared with a needle or fine wire.
Never keep the gas burning longer than is neces-
sary- for instance, when once the contents of a
kettle or saucepan have come to the boil the
merest flicker of light will keep them simmering.
The large round burner should not be used
when the smaller one is sufficient. Then, again,
when the griller is being used a saucepan or
kettle of water should always be placed on the
top to utilise the top heat as well as that of
imderneath.
Gas maj' also be economised by using a steamer
or patent cooker (see p. 148) in which several
different articles can bo cooked one above the
other with only one jet of gas underneath. It
is also a waste of gas to use hea\'y saucepans,
as they require an unnecessary consumption of
gas to bring them to the boil. Steel, aluminium,
and enamelled saucepans are all suitable, also
the fireproof china and the glazed earthenware
ones. The saucepans must also be clean at
the foot ; if there is a coating of soot or black
grease it acts ais a non-conductor of heat, and
this again will cause a waste of gas. It is always
better, if possible, to keep a separate set of
saucepans for a gas stove and not to use them
indiscriminately for a gas cooker and a coal
stove.
Tlie flame of gas must not be allowed to blaze
up the sides of a saucepan, but only underneath.
When once the oven has been properly heated
the light should for most purposes be turned
down half way, and in some cases even lower.
Then the cooking should be so arranged that
when the oven is lighted it should be made use of
to the fullest extent, two or three dishes being
cooked in it at the same time. For instance,
if there is a small roast it may be cooked on a
roasting-tin on the bottom shelf, while such
things as a milk pudding, potato or macaroni
pie, baked potatoes, or stewed fruit might be
cooking above. Or, when pastry is being cooked,
cakes or scones might be cooked at the same
time. It would not, however, do to cook pastry
with a roast, as the air of the oven would be too
moist. It is a waste of gas to light the oven to
cook one dish.
To Grill. - A special prill pan is supplied with
every gas stove, and this can be used for many
purposes, such as for cooking a chop, steak,
kidneys, bacon, fish, or in fact anything that
could bo cooked on the ordinary grill. Very
good toast can also be made vmder the grill.
Place the grill pan under the griller, hght the
gas and wait until the griller is red hot before
putting the meat or whatever is being cooked
underneath. Then proceed eis for ordinary
griUing (see p. 107), turning the meat and reduc-
ing the heat as required.
To Make Toast. - The gas should bo turned
down after the griller is once hot. Tlie bread
must be watched very carefully and turned
when necessary. The toast must not be made
too quickly or it will be soft and heavy.
To Use the Oven. - A gas oven generally con-
tains two or three grid shelves and always one
solid shelf. The latter is used to throw down
the heat, and is placed above anything that
requires browning. Nothing should bo placed
on the soUd sheK or it will burn, with the excep-
tion of Uquid things or anything that can be
placed in a tin of water. The top of the oven
is always the coolest part. When dishes in
course of baking are becoming too brown before
being sufficiently cooked, the solid shelf should
be removed altogether.
It used to be thought necessary to place a tin
of water at the foot of the oven, but this is not
the CEise.
When roasting meat the joint should either
be hung on a hook attached to a bar which runs
across the top of the oven or put on a roasting-
tin placed on one of the grid shelves at the
lower part of the oven. If the former method
is adopted the shelves of the oven will require
to be removed and nothing else can be cooked
at the same time. The thickest part of the
joint must always be hung downwards. Heat the
oven well before putting the meat in, and after
the first ten minutes reduce the gas one-half or
even more according to the amount of pressure ;
follow in fact the general rules for roasting
(see p. 165).
When baking cakes the oven should first be
thoroughly heated and then the gas turned
down more or less according to the special kind
of cake, and whether it requires a moderate or
hot oven. Place the cake or cakes on the grid
shelf and below the browning shelf, and gradu-
ally reduce the heat until the cakes are ready.
If the cake is large it may be bettor to keep out
the solid shelf altogether and even to cover it
over with a double piece of kitchen paper to
prevent its taking too much colour. With
large cakes, too, it is a good plan to leave them
in the oven for about half-an-hour after the gas
has been turned off, and to let them dry slowly
in the gradually reducing heat. The same rules
will apply to the baking of pastry.
If a little care is taken and attention given
to details a gas oven is really very easy to
manage, and after a little practice one becomes
quite exi>ert at regulating the heat to a
nicety.
FOOD AN"D THE KITCHEN
97
How to Clean a Gas Stove - Weekly Cleaning. -
Put down a hearth-cloth and have in i-eadiness
a pail of hot water and soda, one or two strong
cloths or swabs, and black-lead brushes, &c.,
for cleaning purposes. Remove the bars from
the top of the stove and wash these in the pail
of hot water, using a brush if necessary. Wash
the top of the stove, being very careful to make
the burners clean ; sometimes it may be neces-
sary to clean out the httle holes with a piece
of wire or a fine skewer if they have become
clogged. Wash also the tray under the burners,
the oven shelves, the sides of the oven, which
are sometimes fitted with movable linings, and
the tin which stands at the foot. If there are
enamelled linings, as in some of the stoves, a
little salt or Brook's soap may be used for
cleaning purposes and also for the oven tin to
remove any brown marks or other discoloration.
Then black-lead the bars, the top and body of
the stove, and put back the different parts in
their proper places. Polish the brass taps with
metal polish, rub up the steel with fine emery
paper, and the stove is finished.
Daily Cleaning. - If the stove is thoroughly
cleaned once a week it will not require black-
leading the other days ; it will be sufficient to
give it a good brush over with the harder
polishing brush, to wash the tray underneath
the biu-ners, and the oven tin if the oven has
been used.
Neither grease nor any kind of food which
may have been spilled during cooking should
ever be allowed to remain on a gas stove, but
must be washed off at once with a cloth wrung
out of hot water and soda, otherwise an un-
pleasant smell will be caused the next time the
gas is used.
COOKING BY ELECTRICITY
Although we have long been accustomed to
electricity as a Hghting agent and even for
heating purposes, electric cooking stoves have
not yet become common. There are, however,
several different makes to be had, and the pi'ice
of some of them is by no means prohibitive.
One of the simplest and most economical
stoves on the market is the " Tricity " cooker ;
it is so simple, so easily regulated, so perfectly
controlled and so safe that it cannot fail to
appeal to those who try it. There are different
types of this stove - The Single Cooker, The
Duplex Cooker, and the Extension Cooker,
while the ovens are sold separately.
The Single Cooker can be used for grilling,
toasting, boiling, steaming, stewing, heating
irons, airing clothes, or as a radiator to warm a
room. The round plate on the top of the stove
is raised to a dull red or lesser heat controlled
by means of two switches, and any degree of
heat from " very hot " to " low simmering "
can be obtained.
Electric cturent is brought to the stove
through a flexible steel-covered cable which
ensures absolute safety. The cable is ten feet
in length and is attached to a wall -plug. The
"Tricity" Stove.
1. Single Boiler. 2. Oven. 3. Extension Boiler.
4. Grill Pan. 5. Toaster.
cooker can easily be moved when desired within
the range of the length of the cable, and, when
in use, should be placed upon a table or on a
wooden pedestal as shown in engraving. It
should be a convenient height for working at.
Special sets of cooking utensils are sold for
use with this cooker. They are qtiite simple, in
both metal and earthenware and without wires
of any kind, but one important point about
them is that each article is absolutely flat at the
base so as to obtain good contact with the hot-
plate and thus make the cooking more rapid and
economical.
The Duplex Cooker has two hot-plates, and its
uses are the same as those of the Single Cooker.
The Extension Cooker has also one hot-plate,
and is generally used in conjunction with one of
the other cookers or to give top heat to the oven.
It is also useful alone for boiling, stewing, and
similar simple operations.
Ovens too can be bought in two sizes, and are
heated by being placed on the top of a Single
or Duplex Cooker. Tlie larger size is quite
sufficient for the needs of the average household.
The following is the working cost of the
" Tricity Cooker " with electricity at a Id. a unit.
1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for 5 hours
at lowest heat.
1 Penny runs a " Tricity " hot-plate for IJ hours
at greatest heat.
Full particulars regarding price, use, &c.,
can be obtained by writing to the makers, the
Berry Construction Co., Ltd., Chaxing Cross
House, London.
COOKING ON OIL STOVES
A small oil stove may sometimes be a con-
venience when neither gas nor electricity ia
within reach. In summer, when a big kitchen
Q
98
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
fire is not required, a stovo of tlus description
will often perform all the cooking opcratioiis
necessary. Being independent of any fittings,
it can be moved about at will, and placed
wherever it is most convenient. Sometimes,
too, in country quarters where the kitchen
range is inadequate for the cooking required, an
oil stovo will bo found of valuable assistance,
and it can e^•en be used in an out-house if the
kitchen is small and inconvenient.
Tliey are to bo had in various sizes, ranging
from a small stove on which only one saucepan
or kettle can be placed, to a large family stove
with oven, boiler and accommodation for several
saucepans as well. It is important to buy a
stove of a thoroughly good make, and of late
years there have been so many improvements
made in their construction that they are more
easily regulated and there is less danger of their
smoking than formerly.
It is always well to see the stove at work
before buying it, and to obtain full instructions
as to its use, as with each special make there are
certain points which require explanation. One
of the greatest objections to oil stoves is their
smell, but tliis can be to a large extent, if not
altogether, avoided by proper management
and care.
To secure the best results, care must be taken
to keep the stove very clean and to use good oil.
The wicks, too, must fit properly and be kept free
from all charring. Tlie oil-receivers should be
well filled before using the stove, and the oil
must not bo allowed to biirn too low.
It is also important to stand the stove out of
a draught, and for this reason, as well as for the
sake of convenience, it is better to raise it above
the ground. It may be placed either on a simple
four-legged stand or if it is a portable stove it is
a good plan to have a box made which will serve
at the same time as packing-case and a stand
upon which to place it when in use. (For
Cleaning and Trimming, see p. 77.)
COAL AND OTHER FUEL
Arrangement of the Coal Cellar. - A good-sized
coal cellar is always an advantage in a house, as
there will then be room to store not only a
quantity but also at least two different kinds of
coal. The contents of the cellar should be so
arranged that each kind can easily be found,
and a supply of slack or coal dust should also be
kept in one corner.
\\Tien a fresh supply of coal is ordered it must
not be thrown in on the top of the old dust,
but this should first be scraped to one side and
used along with the larger pieces. If this is
onco buried there becomes an accumulation of
dust in the cellar which is never used up.
A strong coal shovel should be kept in the
cellar, also a hatchet for breaking the coal when
necessary. A large lump of coal should always
be broken on the gi'ound and not on the top of
other coal, which would in all probability pro-
duce an unnecessary amount of small coal and
dust.
The Buying of Coal. - Coal is always cheaper
if it can bo bouglit in largo quantities - by the
sack or bag is one of the most expensive ways
in which it can be procured. Naturally the
amount ordered must depend upon the accom-
modation there is for storing. The prices are
generally much cheaper in summer than in
winter, and, if convenient, there is a distinct
advantage in laying up a store at this time of
year. Diu-ing the months of June, July, and
August is the most advantageous time to buy.
Sometimes it is possible to make an arrangement
with the coal company that if the purchase is
made in the summer the coal will only be
delivered a ton or half a ton at a time as
required.
It is important to buy the right kind of coal
for the different ranges or fire-places. Range
nuts or cobbles are excellent for kitchen use, and
it would be most extravagant to use finer coal
for this purpose. Coke, which is cheaper than
coal, is often burnt along with the range nuts.
A larger and better kind of coal will lie required
for use in the sitting-rooms. The housekeeper
should see that the coal with which she is
supphed does not contain too much dust. A
careful watch should always be kept on this.
Coal should always be ordered from a good
reliable merchant, and, if possible, from a depot
in one's own neighbourhood so as to avoid any
extra charge for carriage. The price of coal
fluctuates very much according to the supply.
It is also affected by laboiu- disputes involving
strikes, lock-outs, &c., and is, as a rule, cheaper
in localities which are in close proximity to a
coal-field.
Householders who live in flats should ask for
their coal to be delivered in half -sacks, as these
are easier to carry up a number of stairs.
Economy in the Use of Coal. - An extravagant
use of coal is one of the greatest soiu"ces of waste
in a house, but, with careful management, much
can be done to economise in this direction with-
out in any way reducing the amount of comfort
to be gained from the fires.
Fortunately the construction of stoves and
grates has been very much improved of late
years, and what are known as slow combustion
stoves are fitted up in all the modern houses.
Small coal should always be burnt along with
the large. A ton of coal always produces a
certain amount of dust, but if this is not suffi-
cient an extra amount can always bo ordered
by the sack.
When a room is not in actual use or when the
weather is mild and it is yet advisable that the
fire be kept in, a lump of coal should be put on
when the fare is rather low and then a good
shovelful of damp slack placed on the top.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
99
Tlais is called " backing the fire," and by this
means it can be kept in for several hours, and
when a blaze is wanted a little breaking up with
the poker is all that is necessary. Continual
poking is also a cause of waste ; the less a fire
is touched the better, and if it is desired to keep
the room at an equal temperature the fire should
never be allowed to burn too low, but a few
pieces of coal put on gently from time to time
with a sprinkling of dust.
Sometimes the fire-place in a room is unneces-
sarily large, and this can be remedied by the
use of fire-bricks, which will reduce the space
and at the same time throw out heat. Clay
balls are sometimes used for the same purpose.
Briquettes are also used to economise coal.
They are made of coal dust moistened and formed
into blocks. Used along with a Uttle moistened
slack they will keep a fire in for hoirrs, even all
night, and they are a great convenience in this
way. The only disadvantage to their use is
that they cause a lot of dust when broken up.
Cinders should also be utilised. The larger
cinders in the room -fires should be used when
laying the next fire, while the smaller ones
which have been sifted from the ashes can always
be used in the kitchen-fire or in a boiler-fire .if
one is used.
Wood. - Logs of wood are frequently used as
fuel, and in country districts a supply of logs
can often be had quite cheaply, and they make a
nice cheery fire in the winter. In town, however,
they are not as a rule any cheaper than coal.
Firewood can be bought quite cheaply in
bundles, but even with this extravagance should
be avoided. One bundle should be made to
light two fires ; in fact, with care it can be made
to serve for three. Tuere are also different
kinds of firelighters to be had, and sometimes
these are cheaper than the bundles of wood as
they light the fire more easily, especially if the
coal is of a hard make.
THE LARDER
A hoiise of any considerable size usually con-
tains a larder in which perishable food can be
kept, and the importance of this room cannot be
over-estimated. The ideal arrangement is to
have it in two parts, so that dairy produce may
be kept separate from butcher -meat, &c.
Position. - Whenever possible the larder
should have a northerly or easterly aspect and
comparative absence of bright sunshine. It
is important, too, that it should be conveniently
near the kitchen, although not near enough to
be influenced by the heat of the range. It
should never be placed near a lavatory ; neither
shovild the window overlook that part of the
premises where the gulleys to receive the contents
of the waste-pipes are placed.
Arrangement and Fittings. - The ceiling should
be lime- or white-washed. The walls too, if they
are not tiled, should be lime- or white-washed or
painted with some sanitary paint which can
easily be washed.
The shelves aie best made of stone, marble, or
slate, although wooden ones are sometimes fixed.
In any case it is well to have a slab of slate or
marble on wliich special things, such as butter
and milk, can be placed to keep them cool.
Window-sills shoiold be Uned if possible with
glazed tiles, and the floor should be of stone or
tiles (red flags) or concrete.
Ventilation. - There should be one or more
windows with which to ventilate the larder.
If there are two one should be glazed to let in
Ught and the other should be fitted with wire
gauze or perforated zinc, fine enough to exclude
all flies. If there is only one window it should
be kept open constantly, and a piece of musHn
should be stretched tightly across it to keep
out fhes and dust. There must be a through
ventilation, and sometimes it is advisable to have
one of the panels of the door fitted with perforated
zinc in order to secure the necessary draught.
Or sometimes perforated bricks are let into the
walls, which help considerably to ventilate the
larder.
The door of the larder should fit securely.
Requisites for the Larder. - Strong hooks
securely fixed in the ceiUng or himg from
rods of iron running from
side to side of the larder,
from wliich to hang meat,
game, &c. ; a few smaller
hooks fixed to the shelves
or walls ; a wiie rack,
baskets or wooden boxes for
vegetables; bags of netting
for lemons ; a bread-pan, a
large earthenware pan for
milk with a piece of muslin
as a covering ; wire covers
for cold meat, odd cups,
basins, plates and dishes,
also a few muslin bags for
holding meat, hams, &c.,
and some improvised meat-safes made of muslin
bags stretched out by wooden hoops.
A refrigerator is an advantage in a larder
but by no means a necessity, except in lai'ge
estabUshments or in houses where ices are
largely used (see Ices).
Temperature. - This should not exceed 50№
Fahr. in simimer, nor fall below 38№ Fahr. in
winter.
Cleaning the Larder. - Absolutљ cleanliness must
be maintained in the larder by daily and
weekly cleaning.
Daily Cleaning. - ( 1 ) Wipe over the shelves with
a damp cloth and put food not being used
immediately for cooking on clean plates and
dishes.
(2) Wipe over the floor also with a damp
cloth or with a brush with a damp cloth or swab
Vegetable-Kack.
100
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
tied over it (sweeping and dusting must never
be done •while food is in the larder, as it simply
raises the dust to lot it fall afterwards on the
food).
(3) Wipe out the bread-pan.
(4) Burn any scraps not quite fresh of fish,
bones, vegetables, &c.
Weekly Cleaning. - A special day should be
chosen for tliis : -
( 1 ) R-emovo all food from the larder.
(2) Sweep and dust walls and floor ; gather
up dust and burn.
(3) When dust has settled, dust and scrub
shelves, using cfl,rbolic soap, or if the weather is
hot some disinfectant may bo added to the
water, such as carbolic, Jeyes' Fluid, Sanitas, or
Izol.
(4) Scrub floor with soft soap or carbolic soap
and water.
(5) Leave door open to dry floor, &c. When
dry replace the food on clean dishes.
(6) Thoroughly wash out bread-pan and leave
it to dry and air before returning the bread.
(7) In hot weather place bowls of charcoal or
disinfectant and water on the shelves.
Occasionally -
(1) WTiitewash or limewash the ceiling about
every six months.
(2) Scrub wire gauze or perforated zinc of
windows and doors with disinfectant or carbolic
soap and water.
(3) Scald and scrub meat-hooks and wire
meat-covers.
(4) Wash muslin covers when necessary.
(5) Fill up any cracks or mouse-holes with
cement and place traps when necessary.
Treatment of Various Kinds of Food - Meat,
Game, and Poultry. - All uncooked meat should
be hung. If there is a cut side keep this upper-
most to prevent the juice running out. Examine
the meat carefully each day and wipe it with a
cloth to keep it dry. It may also be dusted
over with a little flour. The marrow should be
removed from the bone of such joints as a
sirloin, ribs of beef or loin of mutton, before the
meat is hung up.
If there is any sign of taint cut off the infected
part and burn it, then wash the meat with a
weak solution of Condy's fluid and water, vinegar
and water, or borax and water. If there is a
danger of flies attacking the moat, pepper it
well and hang it up in muslin ; or if there is a
danger of the meat not keeping, it may bo
partially cooked.
Frozen meat should be well thawed before
cooking ; it should be taken from the larder and
kept in a warm kitchen for an hour or two.
Cooked meat should be lifted out of the gravy
with which it has been served and put on a dry
plate covered over with a meat-screen.
If game or poultry has to be kept some time
it should not be plucked, as the feathers are a
protection from fliee. Tie a piece of string
tightly round the nock to exclude the aii and
liang it up. A Uttle charcoal may also be put
inside the vent to help to preserve it. This may
bo made by putting a piece of wood in the oven
and letting it remain until it is quite black. It
should be hung in a current of air and well
sprinkled with pepper if there is any danger of
flies. If there is anj' sign of taint the feathers
should be removed and the bird washed in salt
and water or vinegar and water. Repeat if
necessary and then rinse in fresh water.
The length of time game should be kept
depends partly on the weather and partly on
individual taste, some people not caring to eat
it until it smells distinctly high, while others
prefer to use it comparatively fresh.
To Keep Suet. - If there are any glands or
kernels to be scon these should be removed, also
any parts which show discoloration, as these
very soon become tainted and spoil the rest. If
the suet has to be kept for several days it is a
good plan to bury it in flour. If it is put into
the flour-bin it will not impart any flavour to the
contents.
Ham and Sides of Bacon. - Hang in muslin
bags dusted with pepper or ginger to keep off
the flies. If they are to be kept a long time the
bags should be made of calico, or strong brown
paper may be used for wrapping them in.
Lard. - Keep in a closely covered crock or
basin.
Bones (for stock). - If unable to use at once
bake sharply in the oven for a few minutes.
Stock and Soup. - See p. 118.
Fish. - Fish should always be placed in the
coolest part of the larder - on a marble or slate
slab if possible. It is always better if it can be
used fresh, but when necessary to keep it for
a day or two sprinkle liberally with salt, or in
hot weather it may be wrapped in a piece of
muslin wrung out of vinegar and water. Dried
fish should be hung on a rod or hook.
Farm Produce - Butter. - Keep in an earthen-
ware crock, cover with a piece of muslin wrung
out of salted water and then with a tight-fitting
lid. If there is a largo quantity of butter to bo
stored it should be packed very tightly in the
crock so as to leave no
room for air to get down
the sides. Place the
crock in a cool, dark,
and airy place.
To keep fresh butter
in hot weather a butter-
cooler should be used;
this is made with a
cover into which is
poured a little water.
Failing a butter-cooler
place the butter in a bowl standing in a larger
bowl of cold water. Cover it with a piece of
muslin, allowing the ends of the muslin to dip
into the water. The water, which should be
Butter-Cooler.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
101
changed daily, is soaked up by the musUn and
thus kept constantly wet.
Butter must not be put near any strong-
smelling substance as it quickly absorbs any
flavotir.
Cheese. - A cut piece of cheese should be
wrapped in grease-proof paper or in damp
muslin and kept in a cheese dish or jar or tin in
which there is a little ventilation. A large piece
of cheese ought to be turned frequently and the
rind rubbed occasionally with a cloth to prevent
moisture collecting. A ripe cheese must be
watched carefully to see that it is not attacked
by the cheese fly.
Milk and Cream. - Strict cleanHness is the
first necessity. The jug or basin in which the
milk is kept must be thoroughly scalded and
rinsed with cold water. Milk should always be
kept covered, and, Uke butter, it should not be
put neao" anything with a strong smell, as it
readily absorbs" odovu-s. It is a bad plan to mix
milk - a fresh lot should never be added to some
that has been in the house several hours. In
hot weather the milk should be scalded if it has
to be kept for several hours. Stand the jug
containing it in a large saucepan of water and
heat to almost boiHng -point, or tliis may be done
in a double saucepan. A pinch of carbonate of
soda or powdered borax may be added to the
inilk to preserve it, but this spoils the flavovu*.
The same care must be taken with cream. If
it is scalded as above it will keep sweet for
several hours. A lunnp of sugar will also help
to preserve it.
Eggs should be kept in a basket or on an
egg-stand where they do not touch each other.
If there is room for storing, the thrifty house-
keeper will buy a quantity of eggs in the spring
and store them for winter use. They can be
preserved in one of the following methods : -
(1) Place them in an air-tight box between
layers of coarse salt. Tlie small end of the egg
should be placed downwards and they must
never touch each other. Put a layer of salt
two inches deep on the top, cover with a thick
piece of caUco or strong paper, and then a tight-
fitting lid. This must be kept in a cool place.
(2) Grease the eggs (they must be very fresh)
over with lard, oil, or any pure fat and place them
on a tray with a layer of bran above and below.
(3) Pack in lime, in the same manner as for
salt, only this renders them so brittle that they
are unfit for boiling.
(4) Lay them in a bath of water glass. Water
glass can be bought for about 4d. per pound, and
full directions for its use are printed on each tin.
Bread. - Bread should be kept closely covered
in an earthenware bread-pan with a hd, or in an
enamelled iron bin. It must never be put away
while hot, but should be allowed to cool where
the air can circulate freely round it.
The pan or crock must bo wiped out regixlarly
in order to free it from all musty crumbs, and
once a week or once a fortnight thoroughly
scalded, and then allowed to become cool and
dry before the bread is returned to it.
Bread can also be kept well if it is placed in a
clean cloth and placed on a shelf.
What to do when there is no Larder. - In many
small houses and flats there is no proper larder,
and one cupboard has to serve the purpose of
larder and storeroom and sometimes as a place
for keeping dishes as well.
When this is the case the quantities ordered
must be as small as possible and cleanUness and
order are all the more necessary. If the shelves
are made of wood it is a good plan to have them
covered with white oil -cloth, as this can so easily
be wiped over or washed. In addition to tliis
cupboard, a meat-safe should be provided and
placed either outside or in a cool place. Need-
less to say, it should not be placed anywhere near
a lavatory. A small meat-safe can occasionally
be fixed to the outside ledge of the kitchen
window. If it is out of doors the top must be
protected from rain by a covering of wood or
galvanised iron, and it must be scrubbed out
every week and just as carefully as an inside
cupboard.
FaiUng a meat-safe, small cane and muslin
cages should be bought in which meat can be
hung up in any cool and well-ventilated place.
They are very inexpensive to buy, or they can
even be simply constructed at home by making
a bag of musUn di-awn in at top and bottom.
Place a plate at the foot and keep out the sides
with hoopf- of cane lightly tackod in position.
Economy in the Larder. - No housekeeper
should dispense with a daily visit to the larder.
A survey of this department will help her in
ordering the meals of the day besides acting as
a stimulus to the cook to avoid waste and keep
things in good order.
The chief points to notice when inspecting the
larder are : -
(1) What food there is left from the previous
day's meals, and how best it can be made to re-
appear at table.
(2) What scraps there are for the stock-pot
and odds and ends of fat that can be rendered
down.
(3) The condition of any meat or game that is
being hung.
(4) The condition of the bread-pan - if there
are any scraps that will require to be used up.
(5) What new provisions will be required.
(6) That the larder itself is as tidy and fresh
as it ought to be, and that plates on which food
rests, as well as any basins and jugs, are all clean.
STORING FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Vegetables. - When vegetables are only bought
in small quantities as required thej'^ should be
kept in baskets or a vegetable rack and stored
in a cool place - ^the floor of the larder or cellar
102
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
is the best. Potatoes alone, carrots and turnips
together, and green and other special vegetables
by themselves. Onions, ehalots, chives, and
garlic are best hung up by strings or in a net bag
and kept away from other food.
Parsley and niint sliould be kept with the
Btalks in water, and the water changed every
day.
Tomatoes should be kept on a plate or spread
out on a shelf without touching each other.
To Store Vegetables. - Although vegetables
are at their best when freshly gathered, they can
wlien necessary be kept for a limited period.
\\lien potatoes axe bought in large quantities
and stored through the winter, they should be
kept in a dry dark cellar and covered with straw
to keep off the frost. If kept in a bright or
damp place they will spoil and become milled
and withered. Rub off all sprouts and shoots
as they appear. Examine frequently and re-
move any that show signs of decay. In the
country potatoes are sometimes stored in a deep
liole in the ground lined with straw and banked
up with sand.
Artichokes caii be treated in the same way.
Carrots, Beetroots, and Parsnips may be pre-
served in dry sand or earth in a dark cellar.
Turnips should be allowed to lie on the floor
of a dark cellar.
Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers will keep for
some time if they are hung up by the stalk in a
cool situation.
Small Cabbages too, if they are sound and
firm and cut before the frost touches them, can
be preserved for a few weeks if they are spread
on a stone floor in the dark.
Herbs. - If these can be bought fresh in the
summer time it is best to dry them quickly
beside the kitchen fire. Then strip off the
leaves and rub them through a fine sieve. The
different kinds should be kept separate and
stored in air-tight boxes or bottles.
Fruit. - If only bought in small quantities,
such fruit as apples, pears, plums, apricots, and
oranges should be wiped
and spread out on a tray,
on the shelves of the store-
room or larder, or on a
special fruit -stand.
Bananas and grapes
should be hung. Softer
fruits, such as currants
and berries, should only
bo bought as required and
then used at once.
Lemons should bo wiped
dry and hung up in nets,
or if laid on a shelf they
should be turned every
day.
All fruit should be kept in a cool place and
out of the sun, unless it is a kind which requires
further ripening.
Frnlt-Stand.
When Apples have to be stored in large
quantities for winter use, they should be dry,
sound, and not too ripe. They should be spread
out on slielvos in a fruit-room or an attic that
does not admit too much sunshine. They should
not be allowed to touch each other and any
decaying ones should be instantly removed.
Rough-skinned apples, such aa russets, keep
best.
Pears, if not ripe, may bo kept in the same
way or hung up by the stalks.
THE STORE-ROOM OR STORE-CLOSET
If a small room can be set aside for the storage
of groceries and other household commodities
it will be a great convenience to the careful
housewife, and if she has some knowledge as to
the stocking and general management of that
store-room she will feel a sense of pride in keeping
it well plenished and in good order.
A store-room should be dry and airy, tidy and
weU arranged. A room with a northern or
eastern aspect is the best. It should be as near
the kitchen as possible in order to avoid un-
necessary carrying, end not in the vicinity of
a sink or closet.
If a small room is not available a good-sized
cupboard can serve the purpose, and goods, &c.,
must be bought according to the acoommodation
for keeping them and individual requirements.
Fittings and Arrangements. - The store-room
should have its walls and ceiling white-washed
or coated with sanitary paint, which can be
easily washed. The walls and floor should be
examined for any cracks, and if there are such
they shoiild be carefully filled up with cement
to prevent the entrance of mice, beetles, and other
vermin. Tlie floor should be well boarded and
either left uncovered or covered with linoleum.
If there is an outside window it should be
covered with wire geuze or fine perforated zinc
through which no flies can enter.
The walls should befitted with plenty of shelves,
and if these can be graduated in size it will be
found an advantage ; broader shelves below to
hold the bulkier and heavier articles, and narrower
ones above for those that are lighter. It is a bad
plan to have the shelves so wide that the jars
and other receptacles have to bo placed one be-
hind the other ; it will be a case of " out of siglit
out of mind," and it will bo impossible to see
at a glance what the store-room contains. The
shelves should be covered with white or brown
oilcloth, which is easily wiped down or washed.
This can be fastened in position with drawing-
pins if there is difficulty in making it lie flat.
If space permits it will be found a great con-
venience to have a small inner cupboard with
one or two drawers, also a strong steady table
with a pair of scales or balance.
A few hooks along the edges of the shelves
will also bo useful for hanging such articles aa
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
103
can be suspended, and they sometimes lielp to
eke out an otherwise Hmited space.
Requisites. - Besides the stores and pro-
visions it will be found useful to liave the
following articles in the store-room : -
(1) A dust-pan and brush and one or two
dusters for keeping the shelves, floor, &c., in
order.
(2) A supply of paper, brown and white,
string, pen and ink, and some labels or adhesive
papers. A drawer in the table or cupboard
might be utilised for these or a special corner
of the shelves.
(3) Jars, canisters, boxes, and bottles for
keeping the various stores. Any odd jars and
boxes, &c., can be used for the
piirpose as long as they are sound
and have tight-fitting lids or
saucers to cover the tops very
closely. Empty biscuit-boxes, jam
or pickle jars, can be utilised for
the purpose. For those who can
afford something daintier there are
many kinds of store jars to be
bought both in earthenware and
enamelled tin with the names of
the various groceries, &c., printed on the outside,
from about Is. each according to size. Glass jars
with lids are also nice for groceries that are bought
in small quantities, such as almonds, preserved
fruits, cocoanut, chocolate, &c., and neat tin
boxes or a small chest for keeping the various
spices. Receptacles that have no printed name
must be neatly labelled to show the natiure of the
contents.
(4) A slate and pencil for noting down what
stores require replenishing should be hung in a
convenient place in the store-room, or a store
Store Jar.
^
rrf
> ,
M\
=:
P;
=i
^i
^
if
g8"8
V
; ""
" ^ '
s
store Indicator.
indicator may be piirchased for about 3s. This
useful little remembrancer gives a printed list
of the different stores on a neat frame, and a
system of pegs and holes indicates what is
required.
(5) A few implements will also be required -
a pair of scissors, a cork-screw, a knife, a tin-
opener, two or three spoons of different sizes,
a few scoops, and a cheese and soap-cutter.
(0) It will also be found useful to keep a small
tool-box in the store-room containing a hammer.
s&w, gimlet, screw-driver, a pair of pincers,
chisel, and a tiseful supply of nails, hooks, and
tacks.
Grouping the Stores. - ^In arranging the store-
room the various articles must be grouped
methodically according to their kind and in
such a way that they can be easily found. Keep
a special shelf or corner for cereals, another for
the different kinds of sugar, another for jams
and preserves, another for bottled goods, and
so on.
If there is a small cupboard this might be
reserved for a medicine cupboard, or for special
articles or poisons, which are better kept under
lock and key. There should also be a special
corner for wine if there is no separate wine
cellar, and a special corner for cleaning requisites.
Then if there are drawers these might be used
for kitchen paper, dishpapers, cutlet frills,&c.,and
another one for an extra supply of dusters, dish
cloths, floor cloths, &c., while the nails and hooks
can be utilised for such articles as can be hung.
Articles such as tea and coffee, cheese and soap,
must not be placed near each other, as the smeU
and flavour may be imparted from one to the
other. Nothing must be kept in paper parcels,
and every jar, canister, box, &c., must be
clearly labelled on the outside. The heavier
jars should be placed on the bottom shelf or
on the floor, if dry, and those in constant use
readiest to hand.
Cleaning the Store-room. - The store-room must
be kept very tidy. The jars ought to be taken
down periodically and thoroughly dusted, and
the shelves dusted and washed over before they
are retiirned. When necessary, the jars should
be washed out and well dried before being
refilled. The table and floor shoTild also be
scrubbed when they require it, and everything
kept in good order. If the stores are dropped
about in an untidy manner it will only encourage
mice and insects. It is important also that the
store-room should be well aired.
Giving out Stores. - Stores should be given out
regularly, either daily or weekly and at a fixed
date. They should be checked when they come
in, and the consumption should be strictly
regulated, or the method of bujdng in quantities
will be found an extravagant one.
There are two ways of checking consumption :
one method is to keep all stores and pro\asions
under lock and key and to give them out by
weight and measure. Tliis method is exact, but
it does not always answer ; it is more suitable
for a public institution or for a large establish-
ment than for a small private house. It is often
a cause of worry and annoyance, and is apt to
cause friction between mistress and servants.
As a rule, good servants will work most willingly
in houses where they are trusted, and if we
begin by calculating measure for measure with
them they will doubtless do the same with us.
Servants who are inclined to be wasteful will
104
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
waste by ounces just as easily as they can by
pounds.
Still, it is not wise to have large quantities
out at one time for general use. Smaller jars
can be filled with the different stores for daily
consumption wthout actually doling them out
by the ounce and half ounce and so much
for each person. Some things, such as butter,
tea, and sugar, it is very usual to measure out
for kitchen use, and where there are several
servants this is a wise plan and is thought
nothing of (see p. 45).
Another way of checking consumption is by
means of the weekly bills. Each housekeeper
must draw up her o\vn estimate as to how much
should be spent upon certain things and then
make an effort to keep within its limit (see
p. 365).
GENERAL NOTES ON STORING
Tea and Coffee should be kept in air-tight
canisters or in a lead-lined chest.
Dry Groceries. - Keep in covered earthenware
Jars.
Starch. - Keep in a cool place and well covered,
as air turns it powdery.
Soda and Salt. - Keep in a wooden or tin box
with a lid. Damp is bad for them; it forms
them into blocks.
Spices. - Keep in air-tight tins or in a spice
chest.
Flour. - Keep in a wooden or enamelled bin.
Sometimes the bin is divided, and one portion
can be used for household flour
and the other for Vienna flour.
If the floor is of stone or damp the
bin must be raised.
Jams, Pickles, Bottled Fruits, &c.
must be kept in a cool place as
they are liable to ferment. If the
store-room is hot they should bo
placed noar the floor.
Soap. - Cut in blocks with an
old knife or soap - cutter and
stack up with a space between each block.
Candles. - If store-room is warm rub with
methylated spirits to harden them.
Biscuits and Cakes. - Keep in tin boxes with
tight-fitting lid.
CARE OF WINES
Wines require a great deal of attention, and
their preservation in a state fit to drink largely
depends upon the treatment they receive. Any
carelessness or neglect is sure to bo followed by
deterioration in quality, and the loss of those
properties which can only arrive at perfection if
the maturing process is allowed to proceed under
conditions which are favourable to their growth
and development.
The Wine Cellar. - The collar should bo under-
Enamelled Bin.
ground if possible, as it will then Ije less affected
by variations in temperature. It should be
cool, dry, and well ventilated without any
strong draughts. Tho walls are generally made
of brick or stone and white-washed, and the
shelves or bins of wood or iron.
Ceire should be taken to see that the di'ainage
is good and that no foul air enters. The windows
or holes to admit light should be small, as any
sunshine would rai.se the temperature which
ought to be kept uniform. The thermometer
should stand about 65№ Fahr. and there should
be no variations. If at any time it is necessary
to raise the temperature artificially, gas must
on no account be employed, as the vitiation of
the air which results is injiu-ious to the wine -
an oU lamp or small oil stove is better.
Apart from any artificial heating there will
always be a slight difference in the degree of
warmth between the top bins and the lower
ones, owing to the tendency of warm air to rise,
and in consequence of this care must be taken
to arrange the different varieties of wines in
separate parts of the cellar according to their
indi\'idual requirements as regards heat.
Binning Wines. - Bins are the open divisions
in the cellar in which the wine is placed. They
may either be fixtures in
the cellar or may be
bought separately and
placed on the floor ; if
the latter is done, care
must be taken that the
bin stands steadily or the
wine will be disturbed.
In arranging the wines
it must be remembered
that all wines cannot be
treated alike.
As a rule, it is best to
bin the light varieties such
as Hock, Moselle, and all
sparkling varieties at the bottom. Clarets and
Burgundies in tho middle, and Sherry and Port
and other fortified wines at the top.
The bottles must be placed in the bins Iiori-
zontallj', as the wine would soon deteriorate
were they allowed to stand upright. When
binning port tho bottles should be so placed
that tho chalk or white paint-mark is uppermost
on account of the sediment.
Tlie corks of wine bottles should be examined
for signs of decay, because if once they become
faulty and the air can penetrate the wine will
be spoilt.
Wine should bo consumed as soon as possible
after the bottle has been opened. The lighter
wines are hardly fit to di-ink if they are kept for
even two or three days after being decanted,
although the fortified wines, such as sherry
and port, will last rather longer. (See also Service
of Wines, p. 248.)
Ale, Stout, and Cider. - ^These beverages require
Wine Biu.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN"
105
a temperatui-e of about 50№ Fahr. Tlie bottles
should be allowed to stand upright a few days
before use. Stout should not be kept in the
house too long, as it is liable to generate too
much gas. If beer is kept in a cask, a stand
should be provided in order to raise it about
a foot from the ground. A cask should be so
placed that there is a space all round it to
enable of its being examined from time to
time. It must also be perfectly steady and
wedges of wood used, if necessary, to keep it from
shaking.
Spirits (Whisky, brandy, rum, and gin). -
Spirits are best stood upright, and when in
bottles require very little attention.
Australian Wines. - These wines are easily
handled, being sold in flagons with screw stoppers.
Care should be taken to keep the stoppers
screwed up very tightly, because if the air is
allowed to get to the wine it is liable to turn
it acid.
When no Wine Cellar is Available. - ^If there
is no wine cellar in wliicli. to keep a supply,
wine must be bought in smaller quantities and
just enough for immediate reqtiirements. A
corner of the store cupboard or some down-
stairs cellar can sometimes be utilised for
Wine Cabinet.
keeping a moderate supply of bottles, and for
convenience sake a small bin might be fitted up.
Or a wine cabinet is sometimes found useful,
especially in flats and small houses. They are
fitted with a strong lock and key, and one
to hold four dozen bottles can be bought for
about 30s.
MARKETING
General Hints. - It requires a considerable
amount of forethought and common-sense to
do really good marketing, to buy just what is
necessary for the needs of the household, to
secure cho best value for one's money, and to
be economical in the true sense of the word
\sithout being parsimonious.
Whether we have much money or little at
our disposal it always requires some care to lay
it out to the best advantage, and the less there
is the more necessity there will be to make the
most of it.
Money is often wasted and time lost by the
hoiisekeeper not knowing how to choose and
order food. It requires some experience to do
it well, but with common-sense and good will
the art of marketing is easily acquired.
Each purchase should be thoughtfully con-
sidered, and when means are scarce money must
not be frittered away on any trifle which may
strike the fancy and has no real value.
It is always best to deal with good reliable
shops and not to be continually hunting after the
cheapest market. Try, if possible, to patronise
the shops in yoiu- immediate neighbourhood,
and preferably those in which there is a big
turnover, where articles are being constantly
sold out and renewed. Avoid shops where the
goods are not kept in an orderly and cleanly
condition, or where they are exposed to the
dust and dirt of the street, or to be touched and
handled by every passer-by.
However small the income may be, it will
never be found economical to buy goods of
inferior quahty in order to save a few pence.
Aim rather at secvu-ing good material of its kind
and at avoiding luxuries, except as an occasional
treat when they can be afforded.
In order to ascertain whether or not you are
being charged a fair price for your provisions,
try to obtain a price list from two or three good
shops and then compare them.
It is the duty of every mistress to see that her
merchandise is good ; there is no virtue in
allowing short weight and inferior quality nor
in permitting oneself to be imposed upon in any
way. One only gets thљ best attention by ex-
pecting and demanding it.
Previous to making out her order the mistress
should go tlirough the larder and store-room and
make a note of what is requii-ed, always bearing
in mind the bill of fare for the day. Sometimes
it is possible to order for two days at a time or
to order always one day ahead to ensiu-e having
the provisions in the house in good time in the
morning. This is often necessary in houses
where a very early dinner has to be provided for,
and it enables tlie cook, or whoever undertakes
the cooking, time to start her preparations
directly the breakfast tilings are cleared away.
Whenever possible, the mistress of the house
or housekeeper should do her own shopping,
not necessarily every day, but certainly occasion-
ally. In this way the tradesmen get a better
idea of her likes and dislikes and can generally
serve her better. Variety will be suggested
by what she sees in the shops, and a knowledge
of what things are in season is more quickly
obtained. With meat especially she will get a
bettor joint or more suitable piece of meat for
her purpose if she sees it cut and weighed tlian
if she simply L^ft it to the butcher's discretion.
At the fishmonger's, too, a personal visit is a wise
106
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
plan, as tlio price of fish varies so much, and even
from day to day according to tlie weather and
other circumstances. The more plentiful kind
will always be the cheapest for the time being,
and it will generally bo found that it is the best
as well.
Shopping should be done as etu-Iy as possible,
as there is generally a better selection in the
forenoon and provisions are fresher.
If this personal shopping cannot be managed
by the mistress of the household and there is no
responsible person to whom the business may be
deputed, a duplicate order book should be used.
A sepfirate list for each tradesman should be
written out in duplicate form, giving exact
quantities requirec^ and price if possible. The
tradesmen can then send for their orders, one
list being given to them and the other retained
for reference and for the purpose of chocking
the house books. This is a safer method than
that of giving haphazard verbal orders to
message boys.
Small vouchers or weight bills should accom-
pany all goods sent from the shops, and these
should be used for checking the various items.
(For Payment of Bills, House Books, &c., see
pp. 365-66.)
GENERAL NOTES ON ORDERING GROCERIES
AND PROVISIONS
When ordering stores there are several points
to be considered besides the ordering of what
is actually requii'ed. We must consider in
addition what will keep well, what space there
is for storing it, what we can afford, and whether
or not it is the best season for a large purcheise.
The slate or indicator will help us as regards
what is wanted, as when each article is finished
or nearly so the fact ought to be noted and then
that article included in the next order.
It must be remembered that articles bought
in small quantities are often dearer in proportion
than when purchased in large quantities ; not
only is the price per pound less, but the weight
of paper and paper -bags is saved.
Good-keeping things should always be bought
in large quantities where the purse is not very
straitened and where space is not a consideration.
As there is generally a cheap and a dear
season an attempt should be made to benefit by
the former by buying in as large a store as
possible of any special commodity that will keep
well and for which there is likely to be use.
All things having a strong taste or smell, such
as spices, essences, coffee (when ground), &c.,
should be bought in small quantities, as they are
apt to deteriorate.
.Ul Grains and Cereals, Soda and Salt, may bo
bought in moderate supplies according to the
needs of the household.
Sugar may also be bought in considerable
quantities, although moist sugar must bo
watched, as it sometimes becomes infected with
sugar mite. Cano sugar is the best for all
preserving purposes ; jams made with it will
keep longer and have a better coloiu- than if
beetroot sugar were used. Beetroot sugar is,
however, quite good for other sweetening
purposes.
Tea should be bought in moderate quantities.
It should be well twisted and the leaves not too
small. Tlie special blend to use is entirely a
matter of taste.
Dried Fruits will also keep well and should be
bought in the autumn when the new fruit comes
in. Figs, however, must be carefully looked
over, as they often become infected with small
maggots.
Soap improves with keeping and may safely
be ordered in large quantities. The drier it is
the less it will waste when used. There ai-e
many different kinds - ^plain yellow soap, mottled
soap, paraffin soap. Sunlight soap, and carbolic
soap are all useful for household purposes ; also
the soft soap, which should be bought in large
tins and given out as required.
Candles will also improve with keeping.
Tinned Foods. - Choose tins that are in perfect
condition and free from rust. There should be
no bulges, which are a sign of fermentation ; the
tops and bottoms should be rather concave.
Foods preserved in earthenware or glass jars are
better and safer than tinned ones, but they
generally cost more money.
Cheese and Butter must always be chosen by
the taste. Cheap butter should be avoided - it
is better to use good dripping or lard for cooking
purposes than inferior butter.
The choice of cheese is entirely a question of
taste. For a moderately priced cheese some of
the American cheeses similar to our Cheddar
cheeses are to be recommended, also the round
Dutch cheeses. In choosing such cheeses as
Stilton, Grorgonzola, and Roquefort, select one
that combines moisture with green mould.
Cream cheeses must always be bought very
fresh and used at once.
Eggs if fresh are clear when held up to the light ;
if stale there is a dark spot or cloudy-looking
part. They may be tested by putting tnem in
salt and water - 1 ounce salt to 1 pint water ;
eggs that float in this are not good. They
should not be too light, and when shaken the
inside should not float about. When eggs are
cheap it is sometimes a good plan to buy in
large quantity and store them for the winter.
(See p. 101.)
Ham. - Choose a short thick leg with a
moderate amount of fat. The rind should be
rather thin and the bone fine. Tlie quality
may be tested by running a pointed knife or
skewer in close to the bone ; when withdrawn it
should not bo greasy nor have an unpleasant
smell, but, on the contrary, be clean and have a
good flavour. Hams vary in price according to
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
107
the manner of curing and special reputation. In
England the Yorkshire and Cumberland hams
are generally considered the finest and still
command a good price, although some of the
southern cotmties produce hams by no means
inferior. In Scotland, the Dumfries and Gallo-
way hams rank among the best, and Irish hams
from Belfast are much prized. Canadian and
Danish hams are also in the market in large
quantities, and although the flavour is not con-
sidered so delicate as that of the home-cured
variety, their moderate price recommends them
to those who have to study economy.
Bacon must be fresh and free from rustiness.
The fat should be very white ; the lean should
adlaere closely to the bone and be of a nice red
colour, and there should be as little gristle as
possible.
The following diagram mil give a general idea
of the way in which a side of bacon is usually
cut in England ; there wiU of coiirse be sub-
divisions to make smaller pieces. What is
known as " streaky " bacon and the flank are
considered the finest, but, being much in demand,
they fetch a high price. The back and loin are
also prime pieces, while the fore-end and gammon,
although not so fine in texture, do excellently
for boiled bacon.
Side of Bacon.
1. Collar.
2. Back.
3. Loin.
4. Corner.
5. Gammon.
6. Flank.
7. Streaky.
8. Fore-end.
HOW TO CHOOSE MEAT
General Hints. - It is very important to buy
meat from a good butcher, and one who can be
thoroughly trxisted.
There are certain signs by wliich the quahty
of the meat can generally be judged. The
texture should be firm and moderately elastic,
and, when pressed, should not leave the imprint
of the finger. If the flesh is flabby and moist
and has an unpleasant odour it is not good.
The lean part should be finely grained, and the
fat, wluch should not be in any undue propor-
tion, should be free from kernels, brown spots,
and streaks of blood.
The meat of most animals that have died a
natural death or by accident should be avoided.
Good meat does not waste much in cooking,
and when left on a dish the juice should not
exude from it in any quantity.
Besides these general points to be remembered
each special kind of meat has its indivndual
character by wliich it can be judged.
Beef. - The best kind of beef is of a nice red
colour, almost a cherry red, and the lean has a
marble appearance, being slightly intergrained
with fat. The fat is a pale yeUow colour, not
mottled, and the suet hard and dry. It is fine
and smooth in textiu-e, with rather an open
grain. There should be little or no gristle
between the fat and the lean, as this generally
indicates that it is the flesh of an old animal.
Beef of a dark colour with very yellow fat should
be avoided.
Beef is more nourishing and strengthening
than mutton, but not so easy of digestion. Ox
beef is better than cow beef and generally
fetches a higher price. Bull beef is very coEirse,
and is never sold by a good butcher.
Beef should be well hung before it is used
to make it tender ; the time it should hang wUl
depend upon the weather, and it must never be
allowed to become high.
Mutton. - The best mutton is pltimp and
small-boned. The quality depends very much
upon where the animal has been reared, and also
upon the age at which it is killed ; the mountain-
fed sheep are considered the best, and from four
to six years old is the best age for killing, only a
farmer can rarely afford to keep his sheep so
long, and they are generally killed between two
and three years of age.
The lean of mutton is not so red in colour as
beef, but has a darker and browner hue. It
should be firm, close in textiire, and not inter-
grained with fat. The fat should be hard and
very white and waxy. Mutton, like beef, should
be well hung.
Lamb is paler in colour than mutton, and
the fat is pearly white. When fresh, the veins
in the neck end of the fore-quarter have a
bluish tinge, and when stale these develop a
greenish hue. In the hind-quarter the kidneys
should be examined ; if they are flabby with an
unpleasant smell the meat is stale.
A piece of the caul, a thin transparent-looking
membrane, should be sent with each joint of
lamb to wrap round it and protect it when
cooking.
The New Zealand or Canterbury Iamb is much
cheaper than the home grown, but as far as
taste is concerned it is more like mutton, as
it seems to lose its characteristic flavour during
the process of freezing.
The flesh of lamb is tenderer than that of
mutton, but it is more watery and not so nutri-
tious. Lamb cannot be hung for very long.
Pork. - Pork requires very careful choosing
as it is more subject to diseeise than perhaps
any other animal food, and unless one is sure
of its source it is safer to leave it alone. The
flesh should be of a pinky white colour, smooth,
finely grained, and firm to the toucli. The skin
108
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
must not be too thick. Tlie fat sliould be
pearly white with no black specks nor kernels.
Small pork is the best. It is much more difficult
to digest than either beef or mutton, as it con-
tains such a large proportion of fat.
Veal is the flesh of the calf. It should bo
very pale in colour, firm, and closely grained.
The fat should be white, and if that which sur-
rounds the kidney is hard and without smell
the meat is in good condition. Veal is not so
nutritious as beef and it is more difficult of
digestion. Like all other young moats, it should
not l:>e hung verj' long.
Venison is the flesh of deer. Tlie lean should
be finely grained and dark in colour. The fat
should bo plentiful and of a creamy white
appearance.
The age can be judged by the hoof ; in the
young animal the cleft is small and smooth,
while in the older one it has become much
deeper and more rugged.
Venison should be hung as long as possible,
but it must be frequently examined. Its fresh-
ness can be tested by running a knife or skewer
into the bone at the haunch ; if when withdrawn
it smoUs well and is not sticky this is a sure
sign of good condition.
The flesh of the buck is considered superior to
that of the doe.
Suet. - This must be very fresh and of good
quaUty. The solid fat, which surrounds the
kidney, either beef or mutton, is considered the
best. Beef suet should be cream coloured or
pale yellow and mutton suet very white and
waxy. Both should be very firm and dry.
Internal Meats. - All inside meats such as
tripe, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, &c., must be
bought very fresh and used at once.
CALENDAR OF MEAT IN SEASON
Beef, Mutton, and Veal are in season all the
year round.
Lamb. - House lamb from January to May,
grass lamb from May to September, and New
Zealand lamb all the year round.
Pork. - All the year round, but best from
September to May.
Venison. - Buck venison from May to October,
doe venison from October to end of January.
DIFFERENT JOINTS OF MEAT AND
THEIR USES
The cutting up of meat varies somewhat
according to locality and also according to the
special demands of the people with whom the
butchers have to deal.
The following diagrams will give an idea of
how the different animals are cut up by English
butchers, and m.ay also be of assistance to the
housewife in knowing what pioco to order for
the special purpose she has in view.
BEEF
f^
Diagram showing niofle of cutting up Beef
in England.
].
Sirloin.
:o.
Fore Ribs.
2.
Rump.
11.
Middle Ribs.
3.
Aitchbone.
12.
Chuck Ribs.
4.
Buttock.
13.
Leg of Mutton Piec
5.
Mouse Buttock.
14.
Brisket.
6.
Veiny parts.
15.
Clod.
7.
Thick Flank.
16.
Keck.
8.
Thin Flank.
17.
Shin.
9.
Shin.
18.
Cheek.
The Sirloin. - This is the best part for roasting,
but it is somewhat expensive. It is usually
divided into three pieces varying in weight
according to the size of the animal. The middle
cut is considered the best, as it has the largest
amovmt of undercut. The piece next the ribs
has very little undercut, and the one next the
rump is a joint difficult to carve, as it has a piece
of bone on one side.
The sirloins from both sides of the animal
not cut asunder form what is called the baron of
beef, corresponding to the saddle in mutton.
This is a joint rarely seen nowadays, but was
famous at banquets in the days of our ancestors.
The fillet or undercut of tlie sirloin is the most
tender part for entries or fillets of beef.
Ribs. - The cuts from the ribs are also good
for roasting, those nearest the sirloin being
the best. Various sizes of joints can be cut
according to special requirements. It is more
economical to have the bone removed and used
for soup and the meat itself rolled. One or
two ribs treated in this way make a neat little
roast for a small family. \Vhen a large cut of
the ribs is ordered and roasted whole, it is better
to havo the thin end cut off and used for a
separate dish, otherwise it becomes overcooked
before the thicker part is ready. The piece of
ribs next the shoulder is better stewed or braised
than roasted.
The Rump. - ^This is divided into three parts
- the middle, the silver-side, and the chump end.
The middle is an excellent piece of fleshy meat
for any purpose. Some of the best steaks are
cut from tliis part ; it is also a first-rato cut for
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
109
pies, for rolled beef, or for a tender stew. The
chump end is also good for stewing. Tho silver-
side is very often salted and is good for boiling.
Buttock or Round. - This is another very fleshy
piece of meat vath little bone. It is one of
the best pieces for braising or boiling, and
is often salted. It can also be roasted, but,
although economical, it is not so fine in flavour
as the ribs or sirloin.
Aitch Bone, or Edge Bone. - This is a cheap
piece of meat, but as it contains a large propor-
tion of bone and wastes very much in cooking
it is not really economical. It is an awkwardly
shaped joint and very difficult to carve. It is
generally boiled and sometimes salted.
Brisket. - This is also sold at a low price,
and is used principally for boiling or stewing.
It is rather fat, but is excellent when salted and
boiled and then served cold.
Flank. - The thick flank is one of the most
economical parts to buy, as it contains no bone
and verj^ little fat. Suitable for braising, stew-
ing, and boiling. The thin flank contains much
more fat, and is best salted, boiled, and eaten
cold.
The Clod and Sticking Piece are both some-
what coarse and only suitable for soup or cheap
stews.
Shin. - This is also coarse grained and very
gelatinous. It is excellent for stock and soup.
The top part will also make an economical stew
if slowly and carefully cooked.
Cheek. - Only suitable for stews and for
making soup. As it contains so much bone it
is not really economical.
Cow Heel is very gelatinous, and is iised
principally for making jelly, or, along with
iTieat, as a foundation for soups. It can also be
carefully boiled or stewed and then eaten with a
good and piquant sauce.
Tail. - This is somewhat expensive. It is
used for making soups, and can also be stewed
or braised.
Heart. - This is rather coarse and very in-
digestible, but it can be made palatable by
being stuffed and very carefully roasted or
braised.
Tongue is usually salted and then boiled
and served cold, or served hot with a good
sauce, or cut in sUces for an entr^.
Tripe. - The inner lining of the stomach.
It is usually sold partially prepared, although in
Scotland it requires many hours' boiling. It is
very tender and easily digested, and for this
reason is frequently ordered for invalids.
There are several different kinds of tripe
popularly known as " honeycomb," " blanket,"
" double " or " book " (because it is like the
leaves of a book), and " reed " the dark -coloured
portion.
Liver. - This is a cheap piece, and is nutritious
for those who can digest it. It requires careful
cooking.
Kidneys.^Used for making soup. Can also be
stewed, although rather indigestible.
Midriff. - A thin fleshy piece which runs across
the middle of the animal. It is rich in flavour
and is very good for stews or beef-steak pudding.
Sweetbread. - In the ox tliis part is coarse, and
can only be made palatable by careful cooking.
VEAL
Mode of cuttlnc up a Calf.
1. Loin.
2. Chump end of Loin.
3. Fillet.
4. Hind-knuckle.
5. Fore-knuckle.
6. Neck (best end).
7. Shoulder.
8. Blade-bone.
9. Breast.
10. Flank.
11. Head.
Veal, which is the flesh of the calf, is cut up
into the following different joints : -
The Fillet. - One of the finest pieces, very
fleshy with little or no bone. Can be used for
any pvu-pose. The best cutlets are cut from
this part. It is high priced, but not over
expensive, as there is practically no waste.
The Breast. - If boned, stuffed and rolled,
this part makes a nice little joint for roasting.
It can also be braised or stewed. Entrees are
also prepared from this piece.
The Loin. - One of the best pieces for roasting,
also for chops.
The Neck. - A good joint for breiising or
stewing. Can also be roasted. The best end
may be cut into chops. The scrag-end is more
suitable for broth.
Knuckle. - This is a favourite part for soup
or broth and is much used in the making of
white stock. The fore-knuckle is more tender
than the hind-knuckle and is often stewed or
boiled and served with a good sauce.
Head and Feet are sometimes served to-
gether as a hash, b\it, being rather insipid in
flavour, they require a good sauce. They can
also be used for pies, when some ham should be
added, and for different entr^s. The head is
iised for soup- Mock Turtle Soup - and the feet
for maJking jelly - Calf's Foot Jelly.
110
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Sweetbread. - This is considered a great
delicacy, and is generally expensive. It is much
iised for entrees, and is a favourite dish for
invalids. The throat Bweotbrcad, which is the
thymus gland of the calf, is considered inferior
in quality to the heart sweetbread.
Kidney. - Generally sold along with a piece of
the loin and roasted. Can also be used separ-
ately in the same way as sheep's kidneys.
Brains. - A \ory delicate morsel for entr6es.
Liver and Heart. - Can be used in the same way
as sheep's hver and heart.
MUTTON
The following diagram will give an idea of the
different joints into which mutton is cut : -
Diagram showing mode of cutting up a Sheep.
1. Leg.
2. Loin.
3. Chump end of the Loin.
4. Neck (best end).
5. Scrag.
6. Shoulder.
7. Breast
8. Head.
9. Shank.
10. Trotter.
The Leg. - This is one of the most economical
cuts for boiling or roeisting, as it is lean with a
small amount of bone in proportion to its size.
It is too large a joint for a small family. It is
sometimes a good plan to have it cut in two
pieces and to roast one piece and boil or stew the
other. \Vlien a piece of the loin is cut along
with the log it is called the haunch.
The Loin. - This is generally divided into two
parts, the best end and the chump end, or
even subdivided into separate cutlets or chops.
The loin makes one of the finest and most
delicate roasts, but it is not economical owing to
the large proportion of fat and bone. If ordering
for a roast it must be well jointed by the butcher
or it will be found difficult to carve, or sometimes
the chine bone, the bone which runs down the
centre of the back, is sawn nearly off and then
removed altogether after cooking. The double
loin from both sides of the animal is called the
saddle. It is considered a very fine joint, but
too large for an ordinary household.
The Necii. - The best end of the neck is also
used for cutlets. It is an excellent piece
for broiling and braising, as it is tender and
delicate in flavour. The scrag-end, wliich Ues
nearer the liead, is a cheap piece of an awkward
shape and contains a good deal of bone. It is
only suitable for broth or plain stews as it is
impossible to cut it in neat pieces.
The Shoulder. - This is another good joint for
roasting, and some people prefer it to the leg.
It is perhaps more delicate in flavour, but is
inchnod to be fat. It can aiao be braised or
boiled.
The Breast. - Is a cheap piece of mutton with
much fat and skin. If boned, stulTed, and
rolled it makes quite a nice little roast. It is
also very suitable for Irish stew where the
potatoes absorb some of the fat.
The Head and Trotters are generally sold at
a low price, but they make excellent broth,
and can also be served as a dish by themselves
with a good sauce or made into a pie and served
cold.
The Pluclc. - This consists of the heaxt, liver
and lungs, which are often sold together. In
Scotland they form the foundation of haggis.
The lungs, or lights, are very inferior, and by
themselves are seldom used, except perhaps as
cats' meat. The heart is sometimes sold by
itself, and is very good stuffed and roasted.
The hver can also be bought separately, and is
generally fried or sauteed along with a httle
bacon.
Kidneys. - These are very dainty morsels
and are a favourite breakfast delicacy. They
axe generally broiled or stewed, and are also used
along with beef in pies and stews. The Iwn
roast often contains one of the kidneys.
LAMB
When lamb is large it is usually cut up and
used in the same way as mutton, but when small
it is cut in quarters. The fore-quarter consists
of the neck, shoulder, and breast, and the hind-
quarter of the leg and the loin.
If the hind-quarter makes too large a joint the
upper part may be cut into chops and served as
one dish, while the lower portion will make a nice
little roast or may be steamed and served with a
good sauce. Or a larger -sized piece may be cut
off the top and made into a stew or braised.
The fore-quarter may be divided in the same
way, the breast piece being stewed or braised
and the shoulder roasted. The chops from the
neck may also be cut off separately and either
broiled or fried or used for hotch-potch.
Lamb's Head can be used in the same way as
sheep's head and is more delicate in flavour.
Lamb's Fry, consisting of the liver, sweetbread,
and heart, is generally cut in slices and fried.
The sweetbreads alone are considered a great
delicacy and are much used for entr^s.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
111
PORK
Diagram showing different cuts of Pork.
1. Spare Kib. 4. Fore-loin.
2. Hand. 5. Loin.
3. Spring or Belly. 6. Leg.
The usual joints of fresh pork are the follow-
ing :-
The Loin is generally scored and roasted.
Pork chops are also cut from this part.
Leg. - Another piece for roasting. The skin
must always be scored by the butcher, or it
would be impossible to carve the joint. It is
sometimes salted and then boiled.
The Hand and Spring or Belly. - These parts
are rather fat, and are usually salted. They
are best boiled and served cold.
Head. - Usually salted. Can be made into
brawn or boiled and served cold.
Feet (Pettitoes) can be cooked in various
ways. Usually boiled or stewed.
The Tongue should be pickled and then served
in the same way as sheep's tongue.
VENISON
The finest joint for roasting is the Haunch.
The Loin and Neck are also good roasting pieces.
The Shoulder and Breast are better stewed or
made into a ragoHt. Chops are usually cut from
the loin or neck and steaks from the leg,
t №
FROZEN MEAT
Large quantities of meat are now imported
from abroad in a frozen condition and sold
in this country at a considerably lower price
than that of home production. New Zealand,
Australia, the United States, S. America, and
Canada all send us in supplies.
The prejudice against tlois kind of meat has
to a large extent disappeared, and it is certainly
an immense boon to those who cannot afford
the high prices asked for our home-fed meat.
Needless to say, this foreign meat does not
equal British meat as far as quality and flavour
are concerned ; the process of freezing apparently
takes away from its goodness, but with careful
thawing and good cooking it compares very
favourably with the more expensive joints, and
in many cases it requires an experienced palate
to detect the difference.
Mutton and lamb seem to suSer less than beef
from the process of freezing. That known as
Canterbury lamb is the best. When ordering
frozen meat it must be remembered that it will
not keep in warm weather without a refrigerator.
HOW TO CHOOSE FISH
General Hints. - Fish to be good ought to be
in season.
Moderately -sized fish are better than very large
ones, especially those which are thick and plump
in proportion to their size. A short thick fish is
always better than one that is long and thin.
There are several signs by which its freshness
can be judged ; the fish should be firm and stiff,
and when held up the tail should not droop ; but
this alone is not sufficient sign, as fish kept on
ice will retain its rigidity although several days
old, so we must look for other signs as well.
The gills in fresh fish are a bright red, the eyes
are bright and not sunken, and the scales also are
bright and can be easily removed when rubbed.
A flat fish should never be bought without
looking at both sides, and especially the grey
side, as this betrays any want of freshness more
quickly than the white.
A plaice, for instance, can always be judged
by its spots ; when fresh they are a bright red,
and after it has been kept some time they take
a brownish hue.
In choosing cut fish, such as cod, halibut, or
salmon, &c., the flesh should have a firm appear-
ance with a close grain; if it looks fibrous and
watery it is not good.
Never choose fish that is bruised or has the
skin broken, as it will not keep well.
poultry when young should have smooth and
pliable legs, with the scales overlapping very
slightly. The spur on the leg must be short and
not prominent, and the feet should be soft and
rather moist. If the spur is large and the legs
hard and dry the bird is no longer young. The
flesh should be smooth and without long hairs.
Wlien choosing a bird that has not been plucked
it should be seen that the plumage is smooth and
downy with soft young feathers under the wing
and on the breast. If freshly killed the eyes
will be clear and not sunken ; there will be no
discoloration of the flesh and the vent will be
hard and close.
When poultry is bought quite fresh it may bo
hung for a few days, but should not be dfaw n
until about to be used. It must never be over-
hung, and when it shows the least sign of turning
green it is unfit for food.
Fowls. - The comb should be smooth and of a
bright red colour. For roasting choose a fowl
with black or yellow legs, as they are supposed
to be more juicy and to possess a better flavour.
For boiling, choose one with white legs, as the
flesh will likely be whiter.
A fowl for roasting, frying, or grilling should
be young and tender, but for boiling, braising,
or stewing an older one may be taken, as old
birds are generally cheaper, and long slow
cooking makes them tender.
Geese and Ducks. - Young birds have yellow
feet and bills with few bristles ; as they get older
they become darker and redder, although the
wild duck has small reddish feet even when
young. The feet should be white and smooth
and without wrinkles. A goose must always
be eaten young ; when over twelve months old
it is not good for table use.
Pigeons. - A dark-coloured one is thought to
have the highest flavour, and a light-coloured
one the most delicate. The legs should be of a
pinkish colour ; wlien they are largo and deeply
coloured the bird is old. The tame pig'^on is
smaller than the wild species and is better for
cooking. Tame pigeons shou'd be cooked at
once as they soon lose their flavour, but wood
pigeons may be hung for a few days.
Turlieys. - A good turkey will be recognised by
the whiteness of its flesh and its smooth black legs.
Tlie wattles should be a bright red, the breast
full and the neck long. Beware of those with
long hairs and flesh of a violet hue. A moderate-
sized bird should be chosen. A hen is preferable
for boiling on account of the whiteness of the
flesh, and the cock is usually chosen for roasting.
If freshly killed it should be kept for at least
three or four days before cooking or it will
neither be white not tender. It should be hung
up to bleed.
Norfolk turkeys eire considered the best.
FOOD AND THE KITCHEN
113
Game. - It is rather more diflBcult to choose
game than it is to choose poultry, as the birds are
usually sold unplucked, but still some of the
same signs will hold good. The young birds
are known by their smooth and pUable legs and
short rounded spurs. The feet should be supple
aVid moist and easily broken. The feathers
also help to indicate the age of the bird, as when
young there are soft and downy ones under the
wing and on the breast. The plumage of the
young bird is even and soft, the long feathers
of the wings are pointed, while in the older bird
these become round and the colours are usually
brighter.
The condition of the bird can be judged by
turning back the feathers of the breast and seeing
if it feels pkunp and hard ; it should also weigh
hea%'y for its size.
As regards the time for keeping game, it is
impossible to lay down any definite rules. To
begin with it depends very much upon in-
dividual taste, those who have it seldom as a
rule Uking it higher than those who are con-
stantly having it. Then old birds can be hung
for a longer time than young ones, and again
the weather must be taken into consideration ;
close muggy days will not be so good for keeping
purposes as those which are dry and cold.
Game should be hung unplucked and un-
drawn and in a current of air if possible. It
must be remembered that if it is required to
taste high when cooked, it should smell almost
offensively so beforehand.
Water birds should always be eaten fresh, as
their flesh, being of an oily nature, very soon
becomes sour.
Hares and Rabbits. - When young the claws
are long and pointed, the cleft in the jaws is
very narrow, the teeth are small and white, and
the ears can easily be torn. The small nut
under the paw should also be well developed.
When the animal is old the claws become
roimded and rough, the cleft in the jaw deepens,
the front teeth are long and yellow, and the ears
become tough and dry, and the little nut under
the paw disappears.
Rabbits, like poultry, should be used fresh.
Choose one that is plump and short-necked, and
the flesh should be stiff without any discolora-
tion. Wild rabbits are generally preferred to
tame ones, as they are considered to have a better
flavour. The flesh of the tame rabbit is wliite
and more delicate. A rabbit should be paunched
before it is hung up.
Hares, on the contrary, require to be well hung
- at least a week - and should not be paunched
until about to be used.
CALENDAR OF POULTRY AND GAME IN
SEASON
The following will be found useful for ready
reference : -
Although it does not require much experience
to tell when fruit and vegetables are fresh, it
does require some attention and care to see that
one is served with the proper article.
Vegetables are never so good as when pro-
ciired fresh from a garden, and when one is
not the happy possessor of a piece of ground
it is sometimes possible to make an arrange-
ment with a gai'dener or farmer to send a
supply two or three times weekly, if not
daily.
If vegetables and fruit have to be bought from
a shop personal choice is always preferable to
a written order. The greengrocer or fruiterer
is naturally anxious to get rid of his stock, and
it is not to be wondered at if he tries to dispose
of the articles he has had longest before selling
those which are fresh.
The careful housewife will, however, insist
upon getting wliat is really fresh and will accept
nothing that is doubtful.
Salads and other green vegetables especially
are only good when newly gathered ; if they
have been IjHng packed one on top of the other
for any length of time they become unwhole-
some, and this is often the cause of green vege-
tables disagreeing with people who have a weak
digestion.
Cauliflowers should be close and very white,
and those of a medium size are best; avoid
those that have a greenish colovu-.
Brassels Sprouts and Cabbages should be close
and firm with plenty of heart. Young cabbages
are the most delicate in flavour.
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows should also
be firm, and those of a medium size and straight
in form are to be preferred to the twisted and
overgrown specimens.
Tomatoes must not be over-ripe. Tlio home-
grown red tomatoes are best for salads and for
eating raw, while the foreign ones, which are
cheaper, are excellent for cooking purposes.
Peas and Beans are best when they are young,
especially if they are to be served separately as
vegetables to accompany meat. The older ones
can be served in soups and stews.
Celery should be chosen of a medium size, and
tlie stalks must be very stiff and close -together.
The whiter it is the better.
Root Vegetables, unlike green vegetables, may
bo kept for some time without suffering in any
way ; they must, however, bo firm and not
withered or shrunken. Some kinds, such as
potatoes, carrots, turnips, and parsnips can even
be stored for -winter use (see p. 102). Potatoes,
for instance, can often be bought very cheaply
by the sack in the summer, and there may bo a
distinct advantage in laying in a store at this
season. There must, of course, bo the proper
accommodation for keeping tliom, and the
greatest care must be taken to see that they axe
sound and good when bought.
It is always best to buy the vegetables that
are in season ; they are then at their cheapest
and best. The early and forced varieties rarely
have the same flavour as those of maturcr growth
and should not be bought by the tlirifty house-
wife for the ordinary bill of fare.
The same care must be taken in the choice of
fruit, and only that which is perfectly sound
should bo accepted. Wlien it is to be eaten raw
it ought to be fully ripe without being over-
much so.
It is a very mistaken idea that good cooking is necessarily an expensive matter. On the contrary,
it is the skilful cook who literally " gathers up the fragments that nothing may be lost," and the
careless one who looks upon them aa trifles not worthy of consideration.
We as a nation are very much behindhand in our cooking arrangements, and it is only now that
we are beginning to realise that training in the subject should form an important branch of every
girl's education.
It is Hamerton who says that " Intellectual labour is in its origin as dependent upon the art of
cookery as the dissemination of its results is dependent upon paper-making and printing. Cookery
in its perfection - the great science of preparing food in the best way suited to our use - is really the
most important of all sciences and the mother of the arts."
In the following paragraphs elaborate dishes which require the skill of a professed cook, very
expensive dishes and dishes which take a long time to prepare have been purposely excluded, and
only those given which are within the power of the amateur and home-worker. It cannot be too
emphatically ui'ged, however, that to ensure success great care is needed in the preparation of every
dish.
The cook, whether professional or amateur, owes something to the author of the recipes she uses,
and that debt is not discharged if the recipes are carelessly read and carelessly followed. Nearly
every one has heard the remark, " I am sure I don't know why the dish is like this - the recipe must be
^\Tong." The recipe cannot reply : can only defend itself by success, and so in the interests of fair
play it ought to receive just treatment. Accuracy in the weighing and measuring of ingredients must
be strongly insisted upon. Cooking may be an art, but it is also a science, and to ensure success we
must be exact. There must bo no guess-work. An ounce more or less may bring ruin on your
labours.
Let all your materials be good of their kind, and do not of set purpose substitute one ingredient
for another.
See also that the fire is in good condition for the cooking required of it, or that the oven is in a
fair way to be at the right heat by the time you are ready to use it.
Lastly, do not scorn those little details of arrangement which add nothing to the taste, but only
to the tastcfulness of the dish. A little fresh parsley, a lace-edged paper, a sprinkling of sugar, &c.,
may make all the difference between a tempting and an untompting dish.
STOCKS, SOUPS, AND PUREES
GeDeral Remarks on Stocks and Soups. - It is
quite an art to make a good soup, but it is an
art easily mastered if only a little care and
trouble are expended upon its acquirement.
There are few things, whether fish, flesh, fowl
or vegetable, which will not lend themselves to
soup-making. The variety of soups is very
great ; in fact, it has been reckoned that there
are over half a thousand different recipes. This
number, however, is obtained by giving a separ-
ate) title to every separate variation of a com-
bination. For example, clear stock, which is
the basis of so many clear soups, will take a
different name from each special garnish or
flavouring that is added to it, and the same
throughout with the other soups - the slightest
variations will furnish the occasion for a dis-
tinctive name. When the numerous recipes come
to be examined, it will bo found that, broadly
speaking, they can be classified under one of the
three following headings : -
(1) Clear Soups and Broths.
(2) Thickened Soups.
(3) Purees.
An explanation of these different classes of
soups is given below, along with a few typical
recipes, which ought to serve as a guide to the
other varieties.
The excellence of the soup will depend to a
largo extent upon slow and steady cooking and
to the judicious introduction of the flavouring.
Although all soup should bo sufficiently seasoned
116
GUIDE TO COOKERY
117
before it is sent to table, salt must always be
added with care, as an over -salted soup can be
relished by no one.
In the following recipes the approximate
amount of liquid required is always given, but
the exact quantity will depend somewhat upon
the rate of cooking. If the soup becomes too
much reduced by boiling and, consequently, too
thick, more water or stock must be added to
make up the original allowance.
Tlie vegetables, too, are always spoken of as
'prepared, and full directions for doing this will
be found under the heading of " Vegetables."
STOCK
Stock is the foundation of nearly all soups,
and it can be made from fresh meat, bones,
fish, vegetables, or scraps of cooked meat and
bones, &c.
For the better soups, such aa clear soup and
good whito soup, fresh meat is required, while
second stock or general stock will serve as the
foundation for many of the ordinary soups, and,
besides furnishing the Hquid part of stews,
whether white or brown, it wiU go a long way
towards making gravies and sauces a success.
There are different kinds of stock, i.e. brown,
white, and fish stock, meat boilings and general
stock. Of brown stock and white stock both a
first and second stock can be made.
Brown stock is made principally from beef with
sometimes a little veal or some chicken bones
added.
White stock is made from any white meat such
as veal, rabbit, or chicken.
First stock is the first boiling of the meat and
vegetables.
Second stock is produced by putting the meat
and vegetables on to boU a second time with
fresh water.
Fish stock, as its name implies, is made from
fish or fish trimmings.
Meat boilings is the name given to the water
in which a joint of meat, fowl, or rabbit has
been boiled.
General stock is made from scraps of meat,
bones, and vegetables, and drawn from a stock-
pot.
2 small Onions.
2 or 3 sticks of Celery or J
tea-spoonful Celery Seed.
2 dozen Peppercorns.
8 Cloves.
1 blade of Mace.
2 Bay Leaves.
A few Parsley Stalks.
. dessert-spoonful Salt.
Wipe the meat with a damp cloth.
a very sharp knife and cut the meat into small
pieces, keeping back any fat, but using the skin.
Put the bones and meat into a stock-pot or
large goblet with the cold water and salt, and
if time permits let them soak for half-an-hour ;
then put the pan on the fire, and bring the
contents slowly to tire boil. Simmer slowly
for haK-an-hour, and then remove any scum
that may be on the top. If you begin the
skimming too soon, the best part of the stock
is removed. Next add the vegetables, prepared
and cut rather small, and the herbs, celery seed,
and peppercorns, &c., tied in a small piece of
muslin. Simmer slowly from four and a half to
five hours, never letting it go oif the boil ; then
strain through a hair sieve or cloth stretched
over a colander into a basin, and stand until
cold.
A darker-coloured stock may be obtained by
frying the meat in a little dripping or butter
before pouring on the water ; but the present
fashion is to have clear soups pale in colour.
Meat boilings may be used instead of water
for making this stock, and any uncooked chicken
bones would improve the flavour. Do not
throw away the meat and vegetables left after
straining, but put them on again with same
quantity of water as before, and boil again
for Second Stock,
FIRST STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS
Ingredients -
3 lbs. Knuckle of Veal or
2 lbs. Knuckle of Veal and
1 lb. Neck of Mutton.
3 quarts Cold Water.
J Carrot.
i Turnip.
1 Onion.
12 White Peppercorns.
1 stick of Celery, or J tea-
spoonful Celery Seed.
6 or 8 Cloves.
J tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs
or a small sprig of Thyme,
Marjoram, and Basil.
1 blade of Mace.
2 Bay Leaves.
and removo all marrow from the bone. Take
1 dessert-spoonful Salt.
Method. - Make in the same way as first
stock for brown soup (see above), but use
fewer vegetables, as they tend to discolour the
stock. Rabbit or chicken may be used instead
of, or along with, the veal. Any white meat
will do. A piece of lean ham or a small ham-
bone will improve the flavour.
A second stock may be taken from the meat
and bones.
SECOND STOCK
After first stock is made, the meat and vege-
tables should be put on again with the same
quantity of water and boiled as before.
It has not the same fresh flavour as first
stock, but it is most useful in the making of
sauces and gravies, and of many soups for
which very good stock is not required.
Second stock is generally a stifier jelly than
first, as more of the gelatine becomes extracted
from the bones.
Sometimes the meat and vegetables are fried
118
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
in a little dripping first. This gives the stock
a darker colour and a richer flavour.
FISH STOCK
or a sprig of Thyme, Mar-
joram, and Biisil.
A few Parsley Stalks.
1 dozen Peppercorns.
3 Cloves.
1 blade of Mace.
1 Bay Leaf.
1 dessert-spoonful Salt.
Ingredients-
2 lbs. of White Fish or Fish
Bones and Triroiuiugs.
2 quarts Cold Water.
1 small Carrot.
1 small Turnip.
1 Onion.
1 stick of Celerj' or J tea-
spoonful Celery Seed.
1 tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs
Method. - Any white fish or trimmings of
white fish, such as haddocks, cod, halibut,
plaice, flounder, ling, "&c., may be used for
fish stock. Fish such as mackerel, herring,
and salmon are of too oily a nature and too
strong in flavour. By fish trimmings is meant
the bones, heads, fins, and skins of fish. If a
light-coloured stock is wanted, avoid using too
much dark-coloured skin. Wetsh the fish or
trimmings thoroughly in cold water, and cut
them into small pieces. Put them into a fish-
kettle or large goblet with the water and salt.
Put the lid on the pan, and bring to the boil ;
then skim well, and simmer about fifteen
minutes before adding the vegetables. As more
scum rises remove it, or the stock will be
cloudy in appearance. Prepare the vegetables,
cut them rather small, and add them to the
stock with the herbs, celery seed, pepper-
corns, &c., tied in a small piece of miislin.
Simmer slowly from three to four hours, then
strain into a basin.
This stock may be used as a basis for all fish
soups and fish sauces.
A whiter stock may be obtained by using
half milk and half water, fewer vegetables, and
by straining after half-an-hour's slow simmering.
VEGETABLE STOCK
Ingredients -
2 Onions.
2 medium-sized Carrots.
1 medium-sized Tuniip.
2 sticks Celery.
2 quarts Water.
Salt.
8 oz. Lentils.
A sprig of Parsley.
" Thyme.
,, Marjoram.
12 Black Peppercorns.
1 blade Mace.
3 or 4 Cloves.
Method. - Prepare the vegetables and cut
them in pieces. Put them in a saucepan with
the water and seasoning, and boil all together
for two or three hours. More water must bo
added if the liquid becomes too much reduced.
Skim well, strain, and it is ready for use.
^ote. - Almost any kind of vegetable may
be used for making this stock, and the more
variety the better. The trimmings and even
the parings of vegetables can be utilised in
this way, only care must be taken to see that
they are thoroughly clean and fresh.
GENERAL STOCK- THE STOCK-POT
In every household where moat is used every
day a stock-pot sl\ould be in general use. A
regular stock-pot is inade of tiiined copper, tinned
iron, aluminium, or cast iron. In large houses
where much cooking is done it is better to havo
one fitted with a tap, which will permit of the
Stock-Pot.
liquid being drawn off when required without dis-
turbing the fat, which rises to the top. For small
households an ordinary tinned or silicated sauce-
pan will serve the purpose very well, or what is
known as a digester, which is made of cast iron
with a close-fitting hd. This latter is not ex-
pensive, but it has the disadvantage of being very
hea%'y. An earthenware casserole or marmite
is also to be recommended for small quantities
of stock ; it is very clean, and it is easy to keep
the coni^ents simmering at a gentle rate.
All scraps of meat, cooked or uncooked, bones
and pieces of vegetable, poultry giblets and
rinds of bacon, should be kept for making stock.
Earthenware Casserole.
Remains of gra^^ too should be saved for the
same purpose, although no tliickenod sauco
must be added, as it would cloud the stock.
Look over the scraps carefully and see that
they are all clean and free from taint. Break
up the bones, remove any fat from the meat,
and cut the vegetables in small pieces. Put
them into the stock-pot with cold water to cover
them, or the water in which meat or vegetables
(except potatoes or cabbage) have been cooked
may be used. Add a little salt, put on the lid,
and bring the contents slowly to the boil. Then
keep the stock slowly simmering at an even
temperature, taking off the lid from time to
GUIDE TO COOKERY
119
time in order to remove the scum. A few
washed and crushed egg-shells put into the
stock will help to clear it. One whole day's
cooking will be sufficient, and at night it must
be strained through a hair sieve into a basin
and allowed to cool. The stock-pot should be
thoroughly washed before it is used again.
Tlie bones and any pieces of meat of value
may be put on the next day with any fresh
scraps, but not the vegetables if they have been
boiled for long, because when the flavour of
these has been extracted they become worse
than useless, and only absorb the meaty
flavours.
Nothing must be added to a stock-pot Txnless
it is quite clean and contains some goodness.
Little bits must not be added at odd times, but
only when the stock-pot is put on for the day ;
all other pieces should be saved for the next
day's use.
Stock should always be made the day before
it is required, as by this means the fat can easily
be removed.
To Remove Fat from Stock. - Have in readiness
two iron spoons, a basin of boiling water, a
cloth, and a small basin or dish into which to
put the fat.
Heat the spoons in the boiling water, and
use first one and then the other to skim off the
fat. The spoons, being hot, melt the fat, and
make it much more easily removed.
When as much as possible has been taken off
with the spoons, dip the end of the cloth into
boiling water, and wipe the stock over with
this until quite free from grease. If the stock
is not a jelly, pieces of kitchen paper must
be passed over the t-^p of it instead of the
cloth.
Do not remove fat from stock or soup until it
is about to be used, as it keeps out the air and
helps to preserve it.
GLAZE
Glaze can either be bought by the oiince or
made at home from stock. Glaze, as a rule, costs
2d. per ounce, and this quantity will be sufficient
to glaze an ox-tongue or a fair-sized piece of meat.
Put the glaze into a small saucepan with sufficient
water or stock to cover it, and allow it to melt
slowly over the fire. Or put it into a jar with
a very little water or stock, and stand the jar in
a saucepan of boiling water until the glaze is
melted. It will then be ready for use.
Home-made glaze can be very easily procured
in houses where there are large quantities of
stock anil bones at disposal. Any good brown
stock can be used, and the second boilings from
meat and bones is almost preferable to freshly-
made stock, as it is more gelatinous. Free the
stock from all grease, and put at least one quart
into a saucepan. Allow tliis to boil quickly with
the lid off the pan until reduced to about half
a pint, skimming when necessary. Tlien strain
through a very fine strainer or piece of muslin,
and reduce again in a aimaller saucepan until
the glaze becomes as thick as treacle, when it
will be ready for use.
If not required at once, it should be poured
into a jar, and if a little melted lard is poured
over the surface the glaze will keep good for
weeks. In fact, this is a very good way of pre-
serving any surplus stock, as a little glaze is
useful at all times for enriching soups and sauces
as well as for coating meat, &c., and, diluted with
water, it will again take the form of stock.
To Glaze Meat. - Have the glaze prepared as
above and in a melted condition, but not too
hot. Use a small paint-brush or egg-brush, and
paint the meat all over with it in even straight
strokes. If one coating is not sufficient allow
the first one to cool, and brush the meat over
again as before. Meanwhile keep the glaze in
a melted state by putting the pan or jar con-
taining it in a saucepan half full of hot water.
Do not waste any glaze that is left, but pour
it carefully into a clean jar ready for future
use, and rinse the brush and saucepan with
boiling water, which pour into the stock-pot.
CLEAR SOUPS AND BROTHS
Clear Soups (Consommes). - The basis of these
soups is good brown stock, which is clarified
according to directions given on page 120.
While first stock is always to be preferred for
the purpose, it is quite possible to utilise good
second stock, only the soup thus obtained is
liable to be rather gelatinous in flavour and
somewhat lacking in that fresh meaty taste,
which is one of the chief characteristics of good
conso)7i7ne.
The different clear soups take their distinctive
name from the garnish that is added to them.
There may also be some variation in the meat
used for the stock - as in clear game, oxtail,
or txirtle soup, &c.
Clear soups are amongst the most expensive
soups to make, and at the same time they sire
the most generally used, especially if a dinner
consists of several courses, as they are hght
and strengthening without being rich and
satisfying.
A good consomme should be of a rich amber
colour, and this must be obtained without
the addition of caramel, which would spoil the
flavom*.
Broths. - A Broth differs from a clear soup in
that it is unclarified, and the meat with which
it is made is either served in the soup or lifted
out and served as a separate course.
There is usually a garnish of rice or barley
and cut-up vegetables, or the vegetables may
be cut in larger pieces and served as an ac-
companiment to the meat.
A broth is a very substantial soup and qviite
120
THE \VO]\IAN'S BOOK
unBuited as the prelude to a long dinner. It
forms almost a meal in itself and is excellent as
a luncheon dish, especinlly in cold weather or
for a nursery dinner. It is always acceptable
too to those who have been working in the open
air or engaged in sports. It is one of the niost
ecoaoroical forms of soup.
Clear Soup
(Fr. Consomm6)
Ingredients -
1 quart good Brown or First
Stock.
6 OS. lean Juicy Beef.
1 lump of Sugar.
1 white and shell of Egg.
Method - Carefully remove all fat from the
top of the stock, and put it into a clean lined
or copper saucepan. Wipe the beef with a
damp cloth, and shred it down finely with a
knife, or put it through the mincing macliine,
removing all fat and skin. Add this to the
stock with the white of the egg and the shell
well washed. Whisk these over the fire with a
wire whisk until the soup just comes to boiling
point. Then remove the whisk and let it boil
well up. Draw the pan to the side of the fire
where the soup will keep warm, but not siijamer,
and cover it over with a plate or saucepan lid.
Let it stand from ten to fifteen minutes. Tie a
clean cloth on to
a soup - stand or
the four legs of a
chair tm-ned up-
side down, letting
it fall slightly in
the middle so as
to form a bag.
Pour some boiling
water through the
cloth into a basin
to thoroughly heat
the cloth. Put a
clean diy basin
underneath, and
pour the soup
gently through the
cloth. The soup
will not be clear
the first time, as it
gets shaken with the straining, so change the
basin and pour the soup through again, repeating
this process until the soup runs through quite
clear. In reheating add a lump of sugar,
which makes the soup sparkle.
Notes. - The various consommes take their
names from the different garnishes that are
addr>d to this soup.
The following are a few of the many vsirleties : -
Consomme & la Brunoise. - A garnish of cooked
carrot, turnip, celery, leeks - cut in dice.
Consom.m4 A la Celestine. - With fine slu-eds of
savoury pancake.
For clearing soup.
Consomme d la Crecy. - Garnish of Httle balls
of glazed carrot.
Cori^omtni d'Orleans. - Garnish of small green
and wliite quenelles.
Consomme d la Florentine. - ^With cheese
quenelles.
Consomm4 A V Impiratrice. - Garnish of poached
eggs.
Consommi d la Jardinilre. - With mixed
vegetables cut in pretty shapes.
Consonwii Jerusalem. - Witii little balls of
cooked Jerusalem artichokes.
Consomme d la Julienne. - With different
vegetables cut in long thin strips.
Consomme aux Pdtes d'ltalie. - With Italian
paste in fancy shapes.
Consomme d la Printaniire. - With spring
vegetables and young green peas.
Consomme Royale, - With rounds or dice of
custard.
When the garnish is made of vegetables these
should be cooked separately and only added to
the soup at the last. Root vegetables should
be cooked in a little stock and seasoned with
salt and a pinch of sugar. The stock should
then be allowed to reduce to a glaze. Fine green
vegetables, such as green peas, asparagus points,
or French beans, should simply be steamed or
boiled carefully in a little water.
Various fancy cutters can be bought for cutting
vegetables in fancy shapes.
For quenelles use a small quantity of nicely
made quenelle meat, put it into a forcing-
bag and force out fancy shapes or small balls
on a greased tin, then poach in boiling stock or
water.
ItaUan paste or macaroni must also be cooked
and rinsed in cold water previous to adding it
to the consomme, otherwise it would destroy
the clearness of the soup. There are scores of
garnishes for clear soup besides those given
above ; in fact, new names are constantly being
invented, and a special event or a passing fashion
will furnish the occasion for a new name, which
in most cases means only a very small variation
in a well-known soup.
Chicken Broth
(Fr. Bouillon de Poulet)
1 table-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
Pepper and salt.
Ingredients-
1 Chicken.
2 or 3 pints Cold Water.
1 table-spoonful Rice or
crushed Tapioca.
Method. - Draw and singe the chicken, and
make it very clean. The inferior part^ will do
quite well for making the broth. The breast
may be cut off and reserved for some other dish.
Cut the rest of the chicken into joints first, then
take all the meat from the bones and cut it into
small pieces. Chop the bones and wash any
part which does not look perfectly clean. Keep
GUIDE TO COOKERY
121
laack any soft fat, but use the skin. Wash the
neck well, and let it soak in cold water and salt
for some time to draw out the blood. Open the
gizzard and remove the bag of stones from the
inside, then wash it well, pulUng off all the fat
skin from the outside. Remove the gall-bag
very carefully from the liver, cutting it away
with a pair of scissors, and wash the liver well.
Also wash the heart and scald the feet, letting
them lie in boiling water for a short time, and
then scrape them well.
Take a clean lined saucepan, put into it the
meat, bones, skin, neck, Uver, gizzard, heart,
and feet. Add the salt and enough cold water
to well cover all ; the quantity depends upon
the size of the fowl used. Put the lid on the pan
and bring slowly to the boil, then skim several
times until the broth looks quite clear. Allow
the broth to simmer from four to five hours until
the goodness is well extracted from the bones, &c.,
skimming when necessary. Strain the broth
through a fine strainer or hair sieve, and let it
stand till cold. Then remove all fat from the
top of the broth, return to a saucepan, and
thicken according to taste. If rice is used, wash
it well and cook in the broth until tender. If
tapioca, bring the broth to the boil, sprinkle in
the tapioca, and cook for ten minutes, until
quite clear. Season to taste, and add the chopped
parsley last. If small pieces of chicken are liked
served in the soup, the best plan is to lift some
of the nice pieces out of the broth as soon as
they are cooked, but before all the goodness is
extracted, and reserve these for returning to the
broth just before serving. A more economical
broth can be made by using a piece of mutton
or veal along with the chicken.
Sometimes the chicken is kept whole and
served as a separate course ; in this case small
pieces of vegetable or thinly sliced leeks might
be cooked with it, and the rice or tapioca added
about half-an-hour before serving.
Note. - A more highly flavoured broth may
be made by cooking small pieces of vegetable
along with the chicken.
Cockle Leekie
An old cock, along with a plentiful supply of
leeks, is generally used for this soup, hence the
name. Make in the same way as chicken broth
(see above), allowing double the quantity of
water and rice and six or eight leeks.
Ingredients -
Hotch Potch
2 quarts Mutton Broth.
Equal quantities of young
Carrots, Turnips, and
Spring Onions.
1 Lettuce.
1 Cauliflower.
1 pint Green Peas.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Paraley.
1} lbs. Lamb or small Mutton
Cutlets.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Put the mutton broth or water in
"which some mutton has been boiled into a sauce-
pan, and bring it to the boil. Clean some young
carrots, turnips, and onions ; cut the carrots
and turnips into very small neat pieces, and the
onions into thin sUces. About one teacupful of
each will be required. Put them into the sauce-
pan with the broth, and boil quickly for half-an-
hoiir. Trim the chops neatly, removing most
of the fat ; add them next with the flower of
the cauliflower broken into small pieces, and
the lettuce finely shred. Simmer the soup
slowly for one hoiir longer, then add the peas,
and cook until they are soft. Add the parsley
last, and season with pepper and salt.
Mutton Broth
{Fr. Bouillon de Mouton)
Ingredients -
IJ lbs. Neck or Knuckle of (" 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped
Mutton. Parsley.
3 pints Cold Water. A small piece each of Carrot,
1 table-spoonful Rice or Turnip, Onion, and Celery.
Barley. I Pepper and salt.
Method. - Wipe the meat, and cut it awaj'^
from the bone and into small pieces, removing
any superfluous fat. Prepare the vegetables,
and cut them into small neat pieces. Put the
meat, bones, and water into a saucepan with a
little salt, put on the lid, and bring slowly to
the boil. Sldm well ; add the rice well washed,
or the barley washed and blanched, and the
prepared vegetables. Simmer from two to
tliree hours, or until the vegetables are well
cooked. Remove the bones, and any grease
from the top of the stock; add the parsley, pepper,
and more salt if necessary before serving.
Another way of making this broth is to keep
the meat whole and to serve it as a separate
course with a httle of the liquid broth strained
round it. The vegetable should then be added
in rather larger pieces and used as a garnish to
the meat. The broth itself may also be finished
differently. After the meat and vegetables
have been removed, switch it for a few minutes
with a wire wliisk, then beat up an egg in a
basin, pour it into the soup-tureen and pour
the soup slowly on to it. This makes a very
delicious soup.
Pot au Feu
Ingredients -
1 lbs. shin of Beef or shoulder
of Beef.
i quarts Cold Water.
2 oz. crashed Tapioca or
Sago.
2 Carrots.
1 Turnip.
1 Parsnip.
3 sticks of Celery.
3 Leeks.
A bunch of Herbs.
1 Cabbage.
20 Black Peppercorns.
6 Cloves.
1 small blade of Mace.
Salt.
Method. - Break up the bones, wipe the meat
with a damp cloth, and tie it into shape with a
piece of tape. Put them into a large saucepan
or earthenware casserole with the water, and
bring to the boil. Add one dessert-spoonful of
122
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Bait, and skim well. Tlien simmer very gently
for two hours. Meanwhile have all tho vegetables
carefully cleaned and prepared, and, with the
exception of the cabbage, cut them in moderate-
sized pieces and tie them in a piece of muslin.
When the meat has simmered the required time,
add the vegetables to the pan, with a bunch of
herbs and the spicos, also tied in a piece of
musUn. Simmer gently for two hours more.
Then add the cabbage, cleaned and trimmed,
cut in two, and tied together with string. Cook
again imtil the cabbage is tender from half to
three-quarters of an hour. Tlien lift out tho
meat on to a hot dish, undo the tape, garnish
with the vegetables, and pour some of the liquid
round as gravy. Serve the cabbage separately
in a vegetable dish, remo\'ing the string. Re-
move the herbs and spices from the stock in the
pan, sprinkle in the sago or tapioca, and cook
until transparent about fifteen minutes. Season
to taste, slvim well, and serve in soup-tureen.
Note. - Pot au Feu is the favourite dish in
many French households.
Spring Soup
{Fr. Potage Printaniere)
Make in the same way as Hotch Potch (p. 121),
omitting the meat.
Veal Broth
(Fr. Bouillon de Veau)
Make in the same way as Mutton Broth (p. 121).
THICKENED SOUPS
Thickened soups can be made of fish, meat,
or vegetables, and they generally have some
stock as their basis. The stock may be either
brown, white, fish, or vegetable, according to the
nature of the soup, or sometimes a mixture of
stock and milk, or milk and water is used.
Some starchy or farinaceous material, such
as flour, arrow-root, cornflour, tapioca, &c.,
generally supplies the thickening property, or,
in the case of the richer soups, a liaison or com-
bination of eggs and cream is used.
Portions of the substance of which the soup is
made are frequently served in it as in kidney
soup and ox-tail soup. Care must be taken
not to make those soups too tliick.
Cabbage Soup
Ingredients -
1 Cabbage.
1 small Onion or Ixsek.
1 quart Meat Boilings.
i pint Millc.
1 table-siKX)nful crushed
Tapioca.
Method. - Wash the cabbage well in cold
water, and remove the coarse outside leaves and
any hard pieces of stalk. Separate all the leaves.
I tea-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
Some crofttons of Toasted
Bread.
White Pepper and Salt.
and let thorn soak in cold water and salt for
half-an-hoiu". Then drain the water away, and
slired the leaves finely. Put the shred cabbage
into a saucepan of fast-boiUng water, salted in
the proportion of one dessertspoonful to the
quart, boil quickly for five minutes, and then
drain. Slice the onion or leek very thinly, and
chop it finely, put it into a saucepan with the
cabbage and stock or meat boilings, and simmer
for twenty minutes. Add tho milk and crushed
tapioca, and cook for ten minutes longer, or
until the tapioca turns quite clear. Add the
parsley just before serving, and season to taste
with white pepper and salt. Put some small
croiitons of toasted bread into tho soup-tureen,
and pour the soup, boiUng hot, over them.
Calf's Tail Soup
(Fr. Potage de Queue de Veau)
Ingredients -
2 Tails.
3 pints White Stock,
i pint Milk.
IJ oz. Butter.
IJ oz. Flour.
A Bay Leaf.
Some Parsley Stalks.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
2 Yolks.
1 gill of Cream. .
J Carrot.
A small piece of Turnip.
1 Onion.
6 Cloves.
1 glass of Sherry.
1 oz. grated Parmesan.
Method. - Wash the tails, and cut them into
pieces about IJ inches long ; put them into a
saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover
them, bring to the boil, and pour the water away.
Rinse out the saucepan, and return the pieces
of tail to it with the stock, bring to the boil
again, and skim well. Add the vegetables all
carefully cleaned, and cut in small pieces, the
bay leaf, cloves, nutmeg, and parsley stalks.
Put the lid on the pan, and simmer slowly from
one and a half to two hours, or until the meat
wiU slip quite easily from the bones ; then strain
through a wire sieve into a basin, and remove
all fat from the stock. Melt the butter in a
saucepan, but do not brown it, add the flour,
and mix smoothly together with a wooden spoon ;
then pour on tho stock, stir over the fire until
boiling, and allow it to boil about five minutes.
Boat up the yolks of eggs in a basin with the
cream, add the sherry, and strain these into tho
soup, stirring all the time. Add the pieces of tail
and seasoning to taste, but do not boil again.
Put the grated cheese into tho soup -tureen, and
pour the boiling soup on to them.
Note. - The cheese may bo omitted.
Cauliflower and Lettuce Soup
(Fr. Potage de Choufleur et de Laitues)
Ingredients -
a large Cauliflower.
1 small Lettuce.
1 quart Meat Boilings or
Second White Stock.
1 oz. crushed Tapioca or
small Sago.
1 oz. Butter.
White Pepper .ind Salt.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped Parsley.
Method. - Use the wliito part only of the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
123
cauliflower. Cut it into small pieces, wash in
cold water. Then scald in fast-boiling water
for five minutes and drain.
Put the stock into a saucepan, and bring it to
the boil. Throw in the pieces of cauliflower, and
boil them until tender, about half-an-hour ; then
add the milk, the butter, and the lettuce cut in
fine short shreds. Sprinkle in the tapioca or
sago, and cook all together for ten minutes
longer, stirring frequently. Season to taste, and
add the parsley at the end.
Curry Soup (White)
{Fr. Potage au Cari (Blanche))
Ingredients -
IJ pints White Stock or
Meat Boilings.
1 table-spoonful Curry
Powder.
1 oz. Cornflour.
2 table-spoonfuls Cream .
1 yolk of Egg.
1 table-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
Squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Small pieces of Chicken or
Rabbit.
Boiled Rice.
Method. - ^Any light stock, or the water in
which a fowl, rabbit, or piece of veal has been
boiled, will do for this soup. Put the stock into
a saucepan, and bring it to the boil. Put the
curry powder and cornflour into a basin, add
the milk graduallj' to them, mixing with an iron
spoon until smooth. Add this to the stock, stir
until boiling, and simiuer for ten minutes. Then
draw the pan to the side of the fire, and strain
in the cream and yolk of egg mixed together.
Season to taste, and sprinkle in the parsley. If
possible, add smie small pieces of cliicken or
rabbit. Stir the soup over the fire until almost
boiling. Do not boil, or the yolk of egg will
curdle. Squeeze in the lemon juice, and pour
the soup into a hot soup-tureen. Serve with
plain boiled rice, on a separate dish (see p. 157).
Lettuce Soup
{Fr. Potage de Laitues)
Ingredients -
2 large Lettuces
i lb. Spinach.
2 or 4 Spring Onions.
3 oz. Butter.
2 pints light Stock.
1 or 2 yolks of Eggs,
i gill of Cream.
Method. - Wash the vegetables, drain and cut
in fine shreds. Put them into a stewpan with
the butter and seasoning, and cook them over
the fire for ton minutes, stirring all the time with
a wooden spoon. Add the stock, wliicb mny
either be vegetable stock or boilings from meat,
and simmer from three-quarters of an hour to
one hour. Draw the saucepan to the side of
the fire and add the yolk of egg and cream
mixed together. The soup must not boil
again.
Mock Turtle Soup
{Fr. Potage do Faasse Tortue)
Ingredients -
J Calf's Head.
J quart Cold Water.
1 glass Sheery.
} tea-spoonful Celery Seed.
2 Bay Leaves.
1 blade of Mace.
A sprig of Parsley, Tliyme,
and Marjoram.
Pepper and Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Force-meat Balls.
4 Carrot.
i Turnip.
1 Onion.
2 oz. Butter.
2 oz. Cornflour.
6 Cloves.
3 oz. lean Ham or a Ham-
bone.
Method. - ^Wash the head well, removing the
brains, which are not used in the soup, but may
be kept for some small savoury dish. Take
away all the gristle from the nostrils, and let the
head soak in cold water, with a handful of salt
in it, for half-an-hour at least. Then blanch it
- that is, put it into a saucepan with cold water
to cover it - bring to the boil, pour the water
away, and wash the head again in cold water.
Cut all the flesh from the bones, and tie it in a
piece of muslin. Put it with the bones and
water into a large saucepan, and let it simmer
gently, skimming occasionally, for three and a
half hours. Then strain the stock through a hair
sieve, and let it stand till cold. Melt the
butter in a saucepan, have the vegetables and
ham cut into small pieces, and fry them in it
with the herbs and spices. Let them get a nice
hght brown colour, and stir well to keep them
from burning. Then add the cornfloiir, and
mix it smoothly in. Remove all fat from the
top of the stock, pour it into the saucepan, and
stir until boiling. Add pepper and salt to taste,
and simmer slowly for one and a half hours.
Remove any scum that may rise. Strain through
a hair sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan,
and return the soup to it to reheat. Add the
wine and lemon juice, and serve in it force-meat
balls (see p. 179) and small pieces of the heeid
cut into dice.
Oyster Soup
{Fr. Potage aus Huitres)
Ingredients -
2 doz. fresh Oysters or 3 doz
tinned Oysters.
2 pints White or Fish Stock
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
A pinch of Cayenne.
1 gill of Cream.
2 yolks of Eggs.
1 tea-spoonful
Essence.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice,
White Pepper and Salt.
Anchovy
Method. - Put the oysters into a small sauce-
pan with their outi liqiior, bring them almost to
the boil, then strain, saving the hquor. Beard
the oysters (that is, remove the piece like a
fringe that encircles them), cut them in two, and
put them aside for serving in the soup. Put the
beards into a saucepan with the liquor and the
stock, and let them simmer for half-an-hour, to
extract all the flavour from them. If the stock
is not previously well flavotired, small pieces of
124
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the different flavouring vegetables should also
be cooked in it. Strain tlirough a fine hair
sieve or piece of muslin, and rinse out the sauce-
pan ready for use. First melt in it the butter,
being careful it does not brown, add to it the
flour, and mix together until quite smooth.
Pour on the stock, and stir constantly over tho
fire until boiling. Skim if necessary. Season
to taste with a little white pepper, salt, ancho\^
essence, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up the
yolks of eggs in a basin with the cream, draw the
pan with the soup in it to one side of the fire,
and strain them into it, stirring all the time.
Reheat, but do not boil again. Add a squeeze
of lemon juice. Put the oysters into the soup-
tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve.
Sorrel Soup
(Fr. Potage d'Oseille)
Ingredients -
J lb. Sorrel.
2 oz. Butter.
2 oz. Totato Flour.
IJ pints ^^'hite Stock.
Method. - Wash the sorrel very carefully, and
then shake it as dry as possible in a sieve or
colander. Cut it into fine shreds with a sharp
knife. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and, when
hot, put in the sorrel, and cook it over the fire
for ten minutes. Then add the potato flour,
and stir for a few minutes with a wooden spoon,
being careful the contents of the pan do not
discolour. Add the white stock, and stir until
boiling. Put the Md on the pan, and simmer
slowly for twenty minutes. Add the milk or
cream, and season to ttiste with white pepper
and salt. Remove the crust from a French roll,
and dry it in the oven. Then break it in pieces,
and put them in a soup-txireen. Pour the soup
boiling hot over them, and serve.
Turtle Soup
Potage h la Tortue)
i pint Milk or 1 gill Cream.
The crust of French Roll.
Pepper and Salt.
{Fr.
Ingredients -
\\ lbs. Knuckle of Veal.
ij lbs. Shin of Beef.
J lb. sun-dried Turtle.
4 quarts Cold Water.
1 small Carrot.
} Turnip.
1 Onion.
J lb. le.in Ham.
2 oz. Butter.
24 Black Peppercorns.
Method. - Buy the turtle four or five days
before tho soup is wanted. Wash it well in
warm water, and soak it in water for three
days at least, until it is well swollen and com-
paratively soft. Change the water every twelve
hours. On the fourth day commence to make
the soup. Wipe the beef and the veal, and cut
them both into small pieces, removing as much
8 Cloves.
1 blade of Mace.
2 Bay Leaves.
A sprig of Parsley, Thyme,
and Marjoram.
Pepper and Salt.
1 glass Madeira.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
2 oz. Cornflour.
fat as possible. Put the pieces into a large
saucepan with the cold water, the ham cut in
small pieces, and the turtle tied in a piece of
muslin. Bring slowly to the boil, and skim well.
Add all the vegetables, cut in small pieces, and
the herbs, and simmer the soup slowly for
twelve hours, removing any scum as it rises.
Strain through a hair sieve and lot it stand till
cold. Remove carefully all fat from the top
of the stock, and cut the turtle into neat square
pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and let
it get slightly brown, then add the cornflour
and mix until smooth, pom* on the stock, and
stir luitil boiling. Boil for a few minutes, and
skim if necessary. Season with pepper and
salt, and add the wine and lemon-juice. Serve
the pieces of turtle and small force-meat balls
in the soup (see p. 179).
PUREES
A pur^ is perhaps the simplest and most
economical kind of soup. It differs from other
thickened soups in that its thickening is effected
by rubbing the meat, fish, vegetable, or other
ingredients of which it is composed through a
sieve and serving them in the soup.
A puree can be made of almost any vegetable,
whether fresh or dried, and of meat, game, fish,
and some farinaceous substances such as rice,
barley, macaroni, &c. Either stock, milk, or
water, or a mixture of all three will supply the
liqmd portion.
Tlie ingredients of which a puree is composed
must always be simmered slowly until qxiite
soft and pulpy in order to facilitate the sieving
process. Although a pur6e is never so smooth
and soft as when rubbed tlirough a hair sieve,
when time and labour have to be considered a
wire one must suflice. In all cases it will be
found ad\'isable to rub the mixture tlii'ough a
wire sieve before putting it tlirough the hair
sieve, as the use of the latter alone is a most
laborious undertaking. Always when sieving
have two spoons in readiness, one to do the
rubbing through and the other for scraping the
sieve imderneath. Stand the sieve with the
narrow rim uppermost within a basin. The
basin must not be so small that the sieve
covers tho rim. Pour a small quantity of the
mixture on the top of the sieve and commence
the rubbing through. Put two fingers on the
bowl of the spoon and rub through with the
edge. Moisten the mixture with some of the
liquid part of the soup when necessary, and
from time to time remove what adheres to the
lower side of the sieve with the second spoon.
What comes through is called the pur6e.
As little as possible should be left on the top
of the sieve when the work is finished, and upon
the patient rubbing through the success of the
soup will depend.
In the case of a meat pur^e it will simplify
GUIDE TO COOKERY
125
the work if the meat is pounded in a mortar
with a little of the Uquid before sieving.
A puree can always be rendered richer by the
addition of some cream and one or two yolks
of eggs just before bringing it to table.
A p\ir6e should be of the consistency of thick
cream, and is usually served with croutons of
bread, or with " pulled " bread served on a
separate dish.
Croutons of Bread. - Use bread not less than
one day old, and rather close in texture. Cut
the bread into sUces one quarter of an inch
thick, take off the crust, then cut it into strips
one quarter of an inch wide, and then across
into even squares. Or the sUced bread may be
cut into fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter.
These may either be fried in boiling fat, in
clarified butter in a frying-pan, or soaked in
stock and browned on a greased tin in the
oven. Drain well on kitchen paper before
serving. Tliey should be crisp, dry, and of an
amber colour.
Croutons can also be made of scraps of pastry
cut in fancy shapes, and either baked or fried.
TTiey may, if liked, be sprinkled with a little
grated Parmesan.
Pulled Bread. - This may be either bought
ready or prepared in the following way : take
the inside crumb of a French roll, pull it with
the fingers (it must never be cut) into small
pieces, and brown these in a slow oven until of
a nice amber colour.
PUREES MADE FROM FRESH VEGETABLES
ArticLake Soup
(Fr. Puree d'Artichauts)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Jerusalem Artichokes.
1 oc. lean Ham.
1 stick Celery or J tea-spoon
ful Celery Seed,
1 oz. Butter.
1 Bay Leaf.
Some Parsley Stalks.
Method. - First wash and brush the artichokes,
then put them into a basin with clean cold water
and peel them carefully, changing the water as
soon as it becomes dirty. Throw the artichokes
as they are peeled into another basin of clean
cold water, with a little vmegar or lemon-juioe
in it, in order to preserve their colour. Skin
and slice the onion tliinly, wash and brush the
celery and cut it into shi-eds, and cut the ham
into small pieces. JVIelt the butter in a lined or
enamelled saucepan, add the axtichokes, drained
and cut in thin slices, also the onion, ham, celery,
bay leaf, and pai-sley stalks. Put the lid on
the pan and cook over the fire for about ten
minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent
the contents biu-ning. Tlien add the stock,
white pepper and salt, and let all simmer gently
1 small Onion.
IJ pints White Second Stock.
i pint Milk and 1 tea-spoon-
ful Flour or 1 gill of Cream
and 2 yolks of Eggs.
White Pepper and Salt.
from one to one and a half hours, or until the
artichokes are quite soft. Rub the soup through
a hair sieve into a basin, then rinse out the
saucepan and return the soup to it to reheat.
Put the floiu- into a basin, and add the milk
gradually to it, mixing until qmte smooth. Add
this to the soup, and stir over the fire tmtil
boiling. Continue boiling for a few minutes,
and add more seasoning if necessary.
If cream and yolks of eggs are used for thicken-
ing, omit the flour and milk. Beat the yolks of
eggs and cream together in a basin, strain them
into the soup, stirring all the time, and do not
boil the soup again or it will curdle.
Note. - Tliis soup should be white in colour.
If it turns green, the ai'tichokes have not been
carefully prepared, or it has been made in an
iron saucepan.
Carrot Soup and Turnip Soup
(Fr. Puree k la Cr6cy et Puree de Navets)
Both are made in the same way as Potato
Soup (p. 126), substituting 1 lb. carrots or 1 lb.
turnips for the potatoes. The addition of a little
cream wiU be an improvement to these soups.
Celery Soup
(Fr. Puree de Celeri)
Make in the same way as Artichoke Soup
(see above), substituting a head of celery for the
artichokes. The celery must bo very carefully
washed and brushed and then cut in fine shreds.
Onion Soup (White)
(Fr. Puree aux Oignons)
Ingredients -
3 Spanish Onions.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
1 quart Meat Boilings.
1 Bay Leaf.
^Vhite Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Skin and scald the onions in boiling
water for a few minutes. Slice them down as
tliinly as possible from the top to the root. Melt
the butter in a saucepan, put into it the onions,
bay leaf, blade of mace, and parsley stalks ;
put the lid on the pan, and cook for ten minutes
without browning. Then pour on the meat
boilings, simmer until quite soft, about one
and a half hours, and rub through a fine wire
or hair sieve. Rinse out the saucepan, and
return the soup to it. Break the floiu* gradually
with the milk, add this to the soup, and stir over
the fire until boiling. Boil five minutes, and
season to taste. A Uttle cream is an improve-
ment to this soup, and grated Parmesan cheese
may be served with it.
Onion Soup (Brown)
Make according to preceding recipe, but brown
the butter or dripping and then brown the
1 blade of Mace.
1 oz. Floui' or Rice Flour.
I pint Milk.
A few Parsley Stalks.
126
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
li pints Stock
Boilings,
i pint Milk.
repper and Salt
A few Parsley Stalks.
onions in it, being careful they do not blacken
or the soup will have a disagreeable taste. Omit
the milk, but add the flour broken with a Uttlo
stock.
Note. - 1 dessert-spoonful of sheiry may be
added.
Parsnip Soup
{Fr. Puree de Panais)
Make according to directions given for
Potato Soup (see below), using 1 lb. parsnips
instead of the potatoes.
Potato Soup
(Fr. Puree de Pommes de Terre)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Totatoes. \\ pints Stock or Meat
1 stick of Celery or i tea-
spoonfiil Celery Seed.
1 Onion or 2 Leeks.
1 Bay Leaf.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
Method. - Wash and brush the potatoes, peel
them very thinly, removing any black specks,
and then weigh them. Cut them down into
very thin slices, and let them he in cold water
for a short time. Wash and shred the celery,
and skin and slice the onion thinly. Melt the
butter or dripping in a saucepan, strain the
potatoes, and add them to it with the prepared
onion and celery. Put the lid on the pan, and
cook over the fire for a few minutes without
burning. Then pour on the stock or meat
boilings, and simmer slowly from one to one
and a half hours, or until the potatoes are quite
soft. The soup must be stirred frequently, as
it is most liable to burn, and should it become
too thick, more water must be added. Then
rub as much as possible through a fine wire or
hair sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan,
and return the soup to it to reheat. Add the
milk and more seasoning if necessary.
Note. - Any remains of cold cooked potato
may be used up in this soup, and a small ham-
bone cooked in it is an improvement.
The addition of two or three tomatoes will
make a nice change from time to time.
Tomato Soup
(Fr. Puree do Tomates)
Ingredients -
1 tin or 10 or 12 fresh
Tomatoes.
3 pints Second Stock or
Liquor from the tin.
1 Onion.
1 Carrot.
i Turnip.
1 oz. Butter.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
12 Peppercorns.
6 Cloves.
1 lump of Sugar.
1 oz. Rice Flour or crushed
Tapioca.
1 oz. lean Ham or a small
Ham-bone.
1 blade of Mace.
A sprig of Parsley, Tliyme,
and Marjoram.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Melt tho butter in a saucepan, and
put into it the ham cut in small pieces, the onion
thinly sliced, and tho herbs tied together in a
bunch. Fry these for a few minutes over the
fire, letting them colour sUghtly. Then add
the tomatoes, cutting them into slices if they
are fresh, the other vegetables cut into small
pieces, and the rice flour, cloves, peppercorns,
maco, and salt. Mix these well for a few
minutes, and add tlio stock or liquor from tho
tin. Allow the soup to simmer slowly from
three to four hours, until tho vegetables are
thoroughly soft, and then rub through a fine
wire or hair sieve into a basin. Rinse out tho
saucepan, and return the soup to it to reheat ;
add the sugar, lemon juice, and more salt if
necessary. A little milk or cream may also
be added.
Vegetable Marrow Soup
(Fr. Puree de Courge)
Follow the directions given for Potato Soup
(see above), substituting vegetable marrow for
the potatoes. Wash the marrow, then peel,
weigh, and cut it down into tlain sUces, but do
not remove the seeds.
PUREES WITH NUTS
Almond Soup
(Fr. Puree d'Amandes)
Use the recipe given for Chestnut Soup (see
below), allowing J lb. sweet almonds, weighed
after peeUng, instead of the chestnuts, and add
half a teacupful of bread-crumbs. Blanch and
chop the almonds and pound them in a mortar
with a few drops of water. Put thorn into a
saucepan with the bread-crumbs, stock, &c., and
proceed as in the last recipe.
White Chestnut Soup
(Fr. Puree de Marrons)
Ingredients -
j lb. Chestnuts, weighed
after peeling.
1 quart White Stock.
1 gill of Cream or J pint
Milk.
1 oz. Butter.
A small blade of Mace.
White Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
A few Parsley Stalks.
Method. - Weish the chestnuts and cut a small
piece off the end of each. Throw them into hot
water, and boil for ten minutes. Then skin them
and put them into a lined saucepan with the
stock and a small blade of mace. Simmer for
one hour or more until tho chestnuts are quite
tender ; then rub them through a fine wire or
hair sieve, using the stock to moisten them.
Rinse out the saucepan, and return the chestnut
pur6e and stock to it. Add tho milk or cream,
and boil for ten minutes until quite smooth.
Add white pepper, salt to taste, and a pinch of
GUIDE TO COOKERY
127
cayenne. If too thick, more milk or stock naust
be added.
PUB^S MADE FROM DRIED SEEDS
Pea Soup
[Fr. Puree de Pois)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Split Peas.
2 pints Cold Water or Meat
Boilings.
1 oz. Dripping or Butter.
1 Onion.
A few Parsley Stalks.
A small piece of Carrot and
Turnip.
2 sticks of Celery or J tea-
spoonful Celery Seed.
A pinch of Sugar.
1 Bay Leaf.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Put the peas into a basin, wash
them well in cold water, and remove any dis-
coloured ones that float on the surface. Then
pour over them the two pints of cold water
or meat boilings, cover the basin with a plate,
and let them soak ovenoight. Next day strain
off the water and keep it for making the soup
with. (A certain amount of noiu-ishment is
always drawn out of the peas by soaking, and it
would be wasteful to throw this water away.)
Prepare the vegetables and cut them into thin
slices. Melt the dripping or butter in a saucepan,
add to it the peas and sUced vegetables, and stir
them over the fire until the fat is thoroughly
absorbed. This is called sweating the vege-
tables ; it softens them, and makes them cook
more easily. Next pour on the liquid in which
the peas were soaked, stir well for a few minutes,
and let it come to boiling point. Remove any
scum that may rise, add pepper and salt to taste,
and if using celeiy seed, add it now tied in a
small piece of muslin. Allow the soup to simmer
slowly from two to three hours, or until the peas
are quite soft and pulpy. Stir the soup occa-
sionally to prevent it sticking to the foot of the
pan and burning, and if it should become too
thick whilst cooking, add a little more water.
When well cooked, rub through a wire or hair
sieve into a basin, rinse out the saucepan, and
return the soup to it to reheat. Add more
seasoning if necessary, and serve with dried mint
finely powdered and sifted.
Note. - ^A Uttle boiled milk or cream is some-
times added at the end ; it has a softening effect.
The water in which a piece of ham, pickled pork,
or salt beef has been boiled, if not too salt, does
very well for making this soup. One tea-spoonful
of curry powder may be added.
Both Lentil and Haricot Bean Soup {Fr. Puree
de Lentilles et Pur^e de Haricots Blancs) can be
made in the same way as above. For the
Lentil Soup either the red Egyptian or the
green German Lentils can be used, and they
will take rather a shorter time to cook than
split peas. In making Haricot Bean Soup it is
as w^ell to omit the carrot and turnip if a very
white soup is wanted, and a little boiled milk
added at the end is always an improvement.
Some Parsley Stalks.
A Bay Leaf.
1 oz. Flour.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
1 blade of Mace.
PUREES OF FISH
Fish Soup
(Fr. Puree de Poisson)
Ingredients -
2 lbs. White Fish or Fish
Trimmings.
3 pints Cold Water.
2 Leeks.
A small piece of Carrot.
A small piece of Turnip.
^ATiite Pepper and Salt.
1 stick of Celery.
Method. - Any white fish can be used for tliis
soup, such as whiting, flounder, haddock, or
cod, trimmings of fish or a cod's head. Wash
the fish well and cut it into small pieces ; put
it into a saucepan -with the cold water (which
should cover it), add a little salt, and bring to
the boil. Skim well and boil for about ten
minutes. Then remove a few nice pieces of
fish, free from skin and bone, and reserve them
for serving in the soup. Prepare the vege-
tables and cut them into small thin pieces,
add them to the soup with the bay leaf, parsley
stalks, and blade of mace. Let all simmer
slowly from one and a half to two hours. If
a cod's head is used, longer time will be required.
When well cooked, strain through a fine wire
sieve into a basin, rubbing through a Uttle of
the fish and vegetables, being careful that
none of the bones are rubbed through. Rinse
out the saucepan and melt the butter or dripping
in it, then add the flour and mix smoothly
together. Pour in the soup and stir until boil-
ing ; add the milk, chopped parsley, and small
pieces of fish, and bring to the boil again.
Season to taste with white pepper and salt.
The yolk of an egg may be put into the soup-
tureen and the soup poured boiling hot on to
it, stirring all the time ; or it may be served
with small egg balls in it.
PUREES OF MEAT
Chicken Soup
{Fr. Potage de Volaille)
Ingredients -
1 Chicken.
2 quarts Cold Water.
I Carrot.
A small piece of Turnip.
1 blade of JIacc.
1 oz. Butter.
J oz. Flour.
1 stick Celery.
1 Onion or Leek.
1 gill of Cream, or } pint
Boiled Milk.
Pepper and Salt.
1 Bay Leaf.
A few Parsley Stalks.
1 oz. lean Ham or a small
Ham-bone.
Method. - Pi'epare the cliicken in the same
way as for chicken broth, p. 120, and, if wished,
keep back the breast for serving in some other
way. Put all together into a clean lined pan,
with enough cold water to well cover - about
two quarts ; add a little salt, and bring slowly
128
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
to the boil. Then skim well and add the vege-
tables, cleaned and cut in small pieces, the bay
leaf, blade of maco, and peirsley stalks. Simmer
slowlj' from five to six hours until reduced about
one-third, remo\nng any scum that may rise.
When cooked sufficiently, strain tlirough a hair
sieve into a basin, and let it stand till cold.
Remove all fat from tlio top of the stock. Take
some of the pieces of meat from tho chicken,
pound them well in a mortar, then rub tlirough
a wire sieve, and moisten wth some of the
hquid whilst rubbing through. Melt the butter
in the saucepan, add the flour and mix until
smooth. Then pour in the soup and the pur6e,
bring to the boil and pour in the cream or boiled
milk. Sesison to taste with white pepper and
sjJt. A yolk of egg may also be used if liked.
Put the yolk in the soup -tureen and pour the
hot soup on to it, stirring all tho time.
Notes. - Tlie breast of the chicken may be
cooked in the soup, and then lifted out, cut into
small pieces, and served in the soup when ready.
The soup may be garnished with some cooked
green peas, a little finely chopped parsley or
chervil.
Rabbit Soup (Fr. Puree de Lapin) can be made
in the same way, but the rabbit should be
sdlowed to he in salt and water for an hour
before it is cut up, to remove the strong taste.
Some nice little pieces of rabbit may bo lifted
out after they have cooked for about aji hour
and reserved for serving in the soup.
Hare Soup
{Fr. Potage de Lievre)
Ingredients -
1 Hare.
1 lb. lean Beef,
} lb. lean Ham.
2 oz. Butter or Dripping.
2 Onions.
A small piece of Turnip.
2 sticks of Celery.
A bunch of Herbs.
1 J oz. Flour or 2 oz. Oatmeal
24 Black Peppercorns.
6 or 8 Cloves.
1 blade of Mace.
1 Bay Leaf.
2 quarts Cold Water.
1 glass Port Wine.
I tea-spoonful Jamaica
Pepper.
Salt.
Method. - Skin and paunch the hare, saving
the liver and as much of the blood as possible.
Then wash the hare, dry it, and cut it into small
pieces. Wipe the beef with a damp cloth, and
cut it and the ham into small pieces. Melt the
butter or dripping in a saucepan, put in the
pieces of hare, meat, ham, and onions thinly
sUced, and fry all those over the fire from ten
to fifteen minutes ; then pour in the water,
bring to the boil, and skim well. Add the other
vegetables cut into small pieces, the herbs,
peppercorns, cloves, mace, bay leaf, and a little
salt. Let all simmer gently from four to five
hours ; then strain through a hair sieve into a
basin, and let the soup stand until cold. Remove
the fat carefully from the top of tho stock, put
some of the meat from the hare into a mortar,
pound it well with a little of tho stock, and rub
it through a fine wire sieve. Return the soup
to the saucepan with the sieved hare. Break
the flour with a httle of the stock, add it to the
soup, and stir until boiling. Boil for a few
minutes, adding Jamaica pepper, black pepper,
and more salt if necessary. If oatmeal is used
for thickening, put it into a basin with half a
pint of cold water ; lot it stand for half-an-hour,
stirring occasionally, and then strain off the
hquid part into the soup, keeping back the
oatmeal ; bring to the boil, and boil for a few
minutes. The oatmeal gives the soup a soft,
velvety taste. The wine and blood should be
added to the soup just before serving, but do
not boil again, or the soup %vill curdle.
Serve small force-meat balls (see p. 179), to
which the liver of the hare cooked and chopped
has been added, in this soup.
PUREES OF FARINACEOUS FOODS
Cream of Barley Soup
(Fr. Potage a la Creme d'Orge)
Ingredients -
1 quart of Chicken or Veal
Boilings.
2 oz. fine Pearl Barley.
1 oz. Butter.
1 gill of Cream or i pint
Boiled Milk.
Pepper and Salt.
1 Onion.
J inch Cinnamon Stick.
1 Bay Leaf.
A few Parsley Stalks.
Method. - Use the fine barley for this soup.
Wash it well in cold water. Put it into a sauce-
pan with cold water to cover, bring to the boil,
strain and rinse again with cold water. This is
to blanch or whiten the barley. Rinse out the
saucepan, and return the barley to it with the
meat boiUngs, or thin white stock. (The water
in which a fowl, rabbit, or piece of veal has been
boiled can be used for this soup.) Add the
onion, thinly shced, the bay leaf, cinnamon, and
parsley stalks. Simmer for two hours, or until
tho barley is quite cooked. Then rub as much
as possible through a tammy cloth or hair sieve.
Return this piu-^e to the pan with the butter,
and add the cream or boiled milk. Sea.^un to
taste, and stir over the fire until boiling.
A few cooked green peeis or asparagus points
may be added.
Cream of Rice Soup
{Fr. Potage au Riz)
Follow the same dii-ections as for Barley Soup,
using half teacupful of Patna rice instead of
the barley. The rice will not require to be
blanched, and one hour will be sufficient to
cook it.
Macaroni Soup
{Fr. Potage Macaroni)
Follow the same directions as above, allowing
2 oz. macaroni insteewi of the barley. The
macaroni will not require to be blanched, and one
and a half hours will be sufficient to cook it.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
129
PUREES OF GREEN VEGETABLES
Asparagus Soup
(Fr. Puree d'Asperges)
Ingredients -
50 beads of Asparagus. 1 Bay Leaf.
1 quart White Stock. Pepper and Salt.
1 gill of Cream. 1 oz. lean Ham.
2 yolks of Eggs. A few Parsley Stalks.
1 oz. Butter.
Method. - Wash the asparagus in cold water,
scraping the stalk ends lightly with a knife.
Cut off the points, reserving them for serving
in the soup, and sUce down the remainder into
pieces of about an inch in length. Melt the
butter in a saucepan, and add the asparagus to
it with the ham cut in small pieces, the bay leaf
and parsley stalks. Put the U'd on the pan,
and shake it gently over the fire for a few
minutes until the butter is absorbed. Then
pour in the btock, and add a little white pepper
and salt. Simmer slowly from one and a half
to two hours, or until the asparagus is quite
tender. Then rub as much as possible through
a hair sieve. Return the soup to the pan to
reheat. Beat up the yolks of eggs and cream
in a basin with a fork ; draw the pan with the
soup to the side of the fire, and strain them in,
Stirling all the time. Tlien stir carefully over
the fire until the yolks thicken, on no account
letting the soup boU. Have the asparagus
points cooked separately. (Steam them gently
about half-an-hour or until tender.) Put them
in the soup -tureen and pour the hot soup over
them. The soup should be of a delicate green
colour, and if necessarj a little spinach green
must be added- care being taken not to overdo
the colouring.
Note. - The yolks of eggs may be omitted
and cream only used, or the cream omitted and
a little milk added to the yolks.
Brussels Sprout Soup
{Fr. Puree de Choux de Bruxelles)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Brussels Sprouts. i 1 gill of Cream or } pint
1 quart White Stock. I Boiled Milk.
AS'hite Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Trim the Brussels sprouts, cutting
away any decayed or discokurod leave?. Wash
well, and let them steep in a basin of cold water,
with a few drops of vinegar, for half-an-hoiu*.
Then drain and tlurow into a saucepan of fast-
boiling water (salted in the proportion of one
dessert-spoonful to one quart), adding also a
small piece of washing soda. Boil quickly with
the lid off the pan from fifteen to twenty minutes,
removing any scum that may rise. Do not
overcook the sprouts, or their colour will be
destroyed. When ready, drain and rub through
a fine wire bieve. Put the stock into a sauce-
pan, add the Brussels sprout puree, cream or
milk and seasoning, and make quite hot, but
do not boil again.
Green Pea Soup
{Fr. Piiree de Petits Pois)
Ingredients -
1 pint Shelled Peas.
1 handful of Pea SheUs.
1 small Lettuce.
A few sprigs of Parsley.
White Pepper and Salt.
3 Spring Onions.
A sprig of Mint.
1 lump of Sugar.
IJ pints Second White Stock.
1 gill of Cream.
Method. - Wash the shells well, and cut them
into pieces. Wash and shred the lettuce, and
wash and sUce thinly the onions. Put all these
into a saucepan of boiHng water salted in the
proportion of one dessert-spoonful to a quart,
salted ; boil for ten minutes, and strain off the
water. Put the stock into a saucepan, and
bring it to the boil. Add the scalded vegetables,
the peas, mint, and parsley, and boil all together
until tender, about half-an-hour. Then rub
through a hair sieve into a basin. Rinse out
the saucepan, and retmrn the soup to it to reheat.
Add tlie cream, and season to taste with white
pepper and salt.
Note. - A few leaves of spinach may be added
to this soup, and sometimes a few of the peas
are cooked sepeirately, and served whole in the
soup.
Water-cress Soup
{Fr. Potage au Cresson)
Ingredients -
2 bunches Water-cress.
li smaU bunch Spring
Onions.
i pint Haricot Beans.
White Pepper and Salt.
1 quart Cold Water.
li oz. Butter.
1 table-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
1 or 2 table-spoonfuls Cream.
Method. - Wash the beans in cold water. Put
them into a basin with one quart of cold water,
cover with a plate, and let them soak overnight.
Next day put them into a saucepan with the
water in which they were soaked, and boil until
quite soft, about three hours. Then rub through
a fine wire or hair sieve into a basin, and make
up this puree to one quart \\-ith boihng water.
Wash and pick the wat€r-cress,carefully remo\'ing
the stalks, and shred it finely with a knife.
Wash the onions, remo\ang the roots and most
of the green part. SUce them also thinly.
Melt the butter in a saucepan, put the greens
into it, and stew them gently for about ten
minutes, until they are just beginning to change
colour. Then pour on the haricot pur^, and
sinuner from fifteen to twenty minutes. Add
the cream, pepper, salt, and the chopped parsley
just before serving.
Note. - Lettuce, sorrel, endive, or any green
vegetable may be shredded and used in the
making of this soup.
130
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
FISH AND FISH ENTRIES
How to Clean Fish. - The thorough cleansing |
of 6sh is essential to its wholesomeness. When
it is bought from a fishmonger it is generally so
far prepared, but if caught or obtained from a
fisherman it will require very careful cleaning
before it can be cooked. Some fish, such as
haddock, whiting, or cod, require to be cut
open before they can bo emptied, while others,
such as sole or plaice, can have the entrails drawn
out tlirough the gills. Be careful not to dis-
figure the fish, but clean it thoroughly, and see
that no blood or black skin is left inside. If
there is a roe tliis should be allowed to remain
if the fish is small, but if large it must be removed
and cooked separately. If the fish feels sUmy,
rub it well ■"-ith a Uttle salt. Scales should be
scraped off with a knife, scraping from the tail
upwards, and the fish well rinsed afterwards.
If the scales are very hard to remove, as is
sometimes the case with fresh-water fish, dip
the fish in boihng water for a moment. In
cutting off the fins, cut from the tail upwards
with a pair of scissors. The fins of turbot
and skate may be left on, as they are very
gelatinous and are considered a luxury. In
taking out the eyes, if the skin over them is
tough, cut it first with a pair of scissors, and
then the eye can easily be pulled out, or pushed
out from the inside. Fish that have a strong
muddy flavour should be soaked in salt and
water before being cooked.
General Rules for Cooking Fish
Boiling. - Boihng is best suited to large uncut
fish or to thick pieces of fish such as salmon,
hahbut, cod, Hng, hake, and turbot. This
method of cooking is not to be recommended
for small fish or for thin shces of fish. Fish
should never be skinned for boihng, and when
whole the head is left on ^vith the eyes taken out.
Turbot should be scored across on the black
side to prevent the white side cracking. All
fish, with the exception of salt fish, should be
put into water that is very hot, but not actually
boihng ; or it is better still if fish stock can bo
used instead of water. Salt the liquid in the
proportion of 1 oz. of salt to a gallon and two
table-spoonfuls of \anegar to the same quantity.
The latter is added to keep the flesh white and
fimn, or lemon juice may be used if preferred.
Always weigh the fish before boiling ; eight
minutes to the pound and eight minutes over is
tiie time usually allowed, but no hard-and-feist
rule can be laid down, as the time very much
depends upon the shape and thickness of the
fish. A fish-kettle is the best utensil to use for
boiling fish, where you have a drainer which
enables you to hft out the fish easily without
breaking it. Have enough water or stock in
the fish-kettle to cover the fish and no more ; if
too much is used the skin of the fish will be hable
to crack ; and add salt and vinegar in the above
proportions. Place the fish on the drainer and
lower it gently in. If a fish-kettle is not to be
had, a stewpan must be used. An old plate
should bo placed inside, and the fish tied in a
piece of muslin or cheese-cloth. Allow the fish
to simmer slowly for the required time. If
allowed to cook too quickly the outside will
be broken before the inside is ready. All
scum that rises must be removed. If allowed
to settle on the fish it will spoil its appearance.
When the fish is ready, the flesh ^vill have lost
its clear appearance, and will look white and
opaque. The flesh will also leave the bone easily.
Be sure to cook the fish sufficiently, or it will be
unwholesome, and at the same time do not
overcook it or it will be flavourless. Lift the
fish out of the water as soon as it is ready, and
drain it well. Never keep it hot in the water.
If it has to be kept warm for a time, place the
drainer, with the fish on it, across the fish-kettle,
and cover over with a clean cloth. Dish on a
strainer, and serve with appropriate sauce and
garnish.
Steaming. - Fish may be cooked by steam in-
stead of boiling it. It is a slower process, but
the flavour of the fish is retained better than by
boiling, especially in smaller pieces of fish.
The fish is placed in a steamer which fits on to
a saucepan, and success depends upon keeping
plenty of water boiling under it.
Slices of fish, small skinned whiting, or fiillets
of fish can be cooked to perfection both as to
flavour and substance by steaming, whereas
boihng would render them woolly and tasteless.
If it is only a small quantity of fish which
requires cooking it may be steamed on a plate.
Grease the plate with butter and lay the fish
neatly on it. Season to taste and squeeze a
little lemon juice over the top. Put a piece of
well-greased paper on the top and cover with
a second plate or the saucepan lid. Place this
on the top of a saucepan of boihng water and
allow it to remain from twenty to thirty minutes,
or until the fish is sufficiently cooked. The
liquid on the plate should be served with the
fish or made into a sauce with a httle flour and
butter, and then poured over the fish.
Note. - This is an excellent way of serving
fish for an invalid.
Frying (French or Wet Frying). - This is cook-
ing in a large quantity of fat, sufficient to cover
the article to be fried. Clarified fat, oil or lard
may be used for the purpose. The fat must be
put into a plain iron stewpan, neither tinned nor
enamelled, as the great heat would destroy the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
131
lining. Success depends upon getting the fat
to the right degree of heat. It must be quite
still. If it bubbles it shows that it contains
water, which must pass off by evaporation before
the fat can reach the required heat. A blue,
smoky vapour should also be seen rising from it.
It should then be used at once, or drawn back
from the fire, to prevent its burning and making
an unpleasant smell.
This method of frying is sviitable for small
fish such as smelts or small pieces of filleted fish,
such as filleted haddock, sole or plaice. Larger
pieces of fish which require more cooking must
be done by a slower process. (See Dry Frying
below.)
Fish to be fried must first be made as dry as
possible by wiping it gently with a cloth and
then by dusting it with flovtr. Any loose flour
which does not adhere should be shaken off.
The fish should then be further protected from
the fat by being egged and bread-cr\imbed or
dipped in frying batter (see p. 195).
Do not put too many pieces into the pan at
one time, as they will cool the fat too much, and
always bring it to boiling point again before
adding more fish. If the fat is not sufficiently
hot, it will soak into the articles fried, and make
them greasy instead of crisp. Either a frying-
baaket or a perforated spoon must be used for
lifting out the fish. Let them fry a brown colour,
and always drain on kitchen paper before
serving. Always dish fried fish on a d'oyley or
dish-paper. The fat must not be left on the
fire when finished with, but should be strained
through a piece of muslin into a tin basin, and
put aside for further use If care is taken of it
in this way it will keep for a long time, and wiU
not be found an extravagance.
Dry Frying. - This is suitable for larger pieces
of fish, such as cod or salmon steaks, and whole
whiting or haddocks, which require a longer
time to cook than French frying allows for.
Dry frying means frying in a saute or frying-
pan with a small quantity of fat. The fat must
be made smoking hot before the fish is placed in
it, so that the outside is sealed up, and the juice
and flavour retained. Brown the fish first on
one side, then turn over with a knife or fish slice,
and brown on the other. When cooked, Uft out
and drain on paper. Serve on a hot dish with
a fish-paper or d'oyley on it.
Broiling. - Tliis is cooking lish on a grill either
in front of or over a nice clear fire. Herring,
mackerel, trout, haddock, red mullet, &c., may
all be cooked in this manner. They may be
prepared ip either of the following ways : -
1. Wash and clean the fish, cutting off the
heads and fins, and dry them lightly in a cloth.
Then score the skin across three times on each
side to prevent it cracking during the process of
cooking. Season the fish with pepper and salt,
and brush it over with oil or melted butter, or
allow it to soak for an hour in a mixture of oil
and vinegar with a little chopped parsley and
shallot ; or
2. The fish may be spUt open, the bone re-
moved and then Mghtly coated with flour or fine
oatmeal. The latter is most suitable for herring,
mackerel, or trout. A coating of egg and
bread-crumbs may also be used if hked.
Thoroughly heat the gridiron, grease it well,
and lay the fish on it. Keep the fish rather
near the fire while cooking or it uill become
flabby. Cook it from seven to ten minutes
according to the thickness of the fish, and turn
it once at least during the process. When
finished it should be nicely browned on both
sides and show the marks of the grill. Serve
at once with cut lemon and small pats of Maitre
d'Hotel Butter. If there are any roes belonging
to the fish these may be cooked on a tin in the
oven and used as a garnish.
Note. - Fillets of fish, such as salmon, turbot,
or sole, are sometimes wrapped in a heart-shaped
piece of greased paper with a spoonful of any
good sauce and grilled thus. They may also be
soaked or marinaded in a mixture of oil, &c.,
as above, previous to being wrapped up. They
should be served in the paper (en papilloUes).
To Skin and Fillet Fish
A Haddock. - First wash the haddock in cold
water, and cut off all the fins.
Make a sUt in the skin up both sides, so that
it can easily be removed.
Make a cut across the skin just below the
head, and commence at the flap part.
Loosen the skin there, keeping down the flesh
with the knife, and beginning very carefully ;
then pull downwards towards the tail.
Turn, and do the other side in the same way.
To fillet it, remove the flesh cleanly from the
bones on both sides of the fish.
Commence at the open side of the fish, slipping
the knife along close to the bone, and laying the
flesh backwards, but do not separate it from the
other side.
Tui-n, and do the other side in the same way.
A fiUeted haddock should be in one piece.
A Sole or Plaice. - First wash the fish, and cut
off all the fins.
Lay on a board with the tail end nearest to you.
Make a cut across the skin just above the tail,
slip a knife under it, and commence raising the
skin from the flesh.
Then with the right thumb loosen the slun
all the way up the right-hand side.
Loosen up the other side in the same way,
this time using the thumb of the left hand.
Hold the tail of the fish firmly down on the
board ; take hold of the loosened skin with a
cloth, and pull it off quickly, dra^sing it upwards
towards the head.
The white skin may be removed in the same
way, but this is frequently left on.
132
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
To fillet the fish, make a cut straight down
the middle of the back to the backbone.
Then remove the flesh, first from one side and
then from the other.
Two fillets ai-e taken from each side.
It will be fomid easiest to raise the first fillet
from the left-hand side of the fish, working from
the head towards the tail ; and then to turn the
fish round, and to raise the second fillet, working
from the tail towards the head.
Turn the fish right over, and do the other side
in the same way.
Not€. - Filleting is really best leeirnt by watch-
ing a fishmonger or other competent person
at work.
Cold Fish Re-dressed
It is wonderful the variety of Uttle dishes
wliich can be made out of the scraps of cold
cooked fish. Either smoked or fresh fish may
be utiUsed in this way and made to appear
again in an appetising form. The smallest
pieces should not be thrown away, even two or
tiiree table-spoonfuls will suffice to make a fish
omelet, or, with the addition of some potatoes or
rice, enough fish-cakes for two or three persons.
Wlienever possible, the skin and bone should
be removed from the fish while it is still warm,
as when cold the gelatine in the fish hardens and
it becomes more adhesive. Cooked fish very
soon becomes dry and then hard, so it is better
to keep it covered with a plate or basin and to
use it as soon as possible.
The removing of the bones must be done with
the greatest care, as it is just the very small
bones which are so difficult to see which some-
times get into the tliroat and cause trouble.
It is often an improvement to use a little smoked
or salt fish along with the fresh ; it gives more
flavour to the dish.
Fillets of Cod au Gratin
(Fr. Cabillaud au Gratin)
Ingredients -
IJ lbs. of Cod.
2 oz. Butter.
1 Shallot.
1 tea-spoonful
Parsley.
chopped
6 or 6 Button Mushrooms.
2 table- spoonfuls Bread-
crumbs,
i Lemon.
I'epper and Salt.
Method. - A piece from the tail end of the
cod is best, for it is the most tender. Remove
the skin and the bono, and cut the fish into
neat fillets. Mix together the bread-crumbs, the
shallot, par-sley, and mushrooms finely chopped,
a little grated lemon rind, pepper and salt, and
melt the butter in a small pan. Grease a dish
which can stand the heat of the oven, sprinkle
over it some of the mixture, then place on the
dish a few fillets of cod with a little lemon juice,
melted butter and more mixture, then more
fish, and so on until all is used. Stand the dish
in a tin containing water, and bake in a moderate
oven for half-an-hour, basting the fish occasion-
ally ■with the butter on the dish. Serve hot.
A little white wine may be added.
Note. - Other kinds of fish, such as halibut,
haddock, whiting, or even smelts, may be pre-
pared in the same waj'.
Cod Baked in Batter
Ingredients -
1 lb. Cod.
2 oz. Flour.
IJ gills Milk.
1 Egg.
1 tea-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
1 02. Butter or Dripping.
Method. - Wash the cod, dry it, and cut into
small neat pieces, free from skin and bone.
Place these at the foot of a greased pie-dish,
and sprinkle them with a Uttle wliite pepper
and salt. Then make the batter according to
directions given on p. 192. If time permits,
let this batter stand for a short time. It gives
the flour time to swell, and makes it hghter.
Then pour it over the fish, and wipe round the
edges of the pie-dish. Bake in a moderate oven
from twenty to thirty minutes until the batter
is well risen and nicely brown, and the fish feels
tender. Serve as soon after it is taken from
the oven as possible.
Notes. - Any white fish may be used instead of
cod, or the remains of cold cooked fish may bo
utilised.
Half a tea-spoonful of finely powdered mixed
herbs may be used in addition to or instead of
the parsley.
The dish may be made richer by adding a few
oysters, shrimps, or sUces of hard-boiled egg.
Cod's Roe (To Boil)
{Ft. Laitance de Cabillaud)
Required -
Cod's Roe. I Vinegar.
Boiling Water. White or Parsley Sauce.
Salt. >
Wash the roe well in cold water, but do not
let it soak, then tie it up in a piece of muslin
or a pudding cloth, to prevent it breaking. Put
it into a saucepan or fish-kettle of slowly boiling
water, salted in the proportion of one table-
spoonful to one quart of water, and add a few
di'ops of vinegar. Tho water should just cover
the roe. Simmer slowly from fifteen to twenty
minutes according to size. When ready, Uft
the roe out, and let the water drain well from it.
Serve on a hot dish with white or parsley sauce
poured over it, or on a folded serviette, and
hand the sauce sepcu-ately.
Cod's Roe (Fried)
{Fr. Laitance de Cabillaud)
Cut cooked cod's roe in half-inch shoes, coat
them with a Uttle flour, and fry in a small
GUIDE TO COOKERY
133
quantity of butter or clarified fat. Serve
garnished with parsley.
Note. - If wished the slices may be egged and
bread-crumbed before frying.
Salt Cod with Parsnip Pur^e
{Fr. Morue a la Puree de Panais)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Salt Cod.
3 or 4 Parsnips.
1 oz. Butter.
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls thick
Cream.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Soak the fish overnight in cold
water, then take it out and wash it well in clean
cold water. Put it into a saucepan with cold
water to cover it, and let it boil slowly until it is
quite tender, about one hour. Then drain it,
remove the skin and large bones, put it on to a
dish, and keep it warm while the pur6e is being
prepared.
Boil the parsnips luitil quite tender, then
drain and rub them through a fine wire or hair
sieve. Reheat this pvir6e with the butter,
pepper, salt, and a Uttle cream. Pour it over
the fish, and garnish with a little very finely
chopped parsley.
Note. - Instead of the parsnip puree a good
egg sauce may be poxired over the fish.
Dressed Crab (Cold)
Ingredients-
1 Crab (boiled).
2 table-spoonfuls Cream or
Salad Oil.
1 table-sp. White Vinegar.
1 tea-spoonful Tarragon
Vinegar.
1 tea-spoonful made Mustard.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
2 table-spoonfuls white
Bread-crumbs.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - Pick the meat from the crab, keep-
ing back the unwholesome part near the head.
Scrub the shells thoroughly to receive the mix-
ture, dry and grease it ^vith a little oil or butter.
Chop the meat from the crab very finely, being
very careful to remove any small pieces of shell.
]VIix all the ingredients together in a basin,
and season rather highly w^th pepper, salt, and
cayenne. Return this to the prepared shell,
and garnish with sprigs of parsley, thin slices
of lemon, and the small claws. Serve on a
folded d'oyley or dish -paper.
Note. - Dressed crab may be served in a fancy
china dish instead of the crab shell.
Dressed Crab (Hot)
{Fr. Crabe au Gratin)
Ingredients -
1 Crab (boiled).
2 oz. Bread-crumbs.
2 table-sp. Melted Butter,
Cream, or Salad Oil.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Pepper and Salt.
1 tea-spoonful Vinegar or
Lemon Juice.
1 tea-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
A little grated Lemon Kind.
1 tea-spoonful Anchovy
Essence.
A few browned Bread-
crumbs.
\ oz. Butter,
small pieces of shell. Put this into a saucepan
with all the other ingredients except the browned
bread-crumbs and half ounce of butter. Season
rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne.
Make the mixtiu-e thoroughly hot over the fire,
and return it to the shell prepared as above.
Sprinkle the browned bread-crumbs over the
top, and put the butter on in smaU pieces.
Bake in the oven or in front of the fire for about
fifteen minutes. Serve on a d'oyley or dish-
paper, and garnish with parsley and small
slices of lemon.
Note. - If hked, two table-spoonfuls of tomato
pur6e may be added.
Fish Cakes
{Fr. Croquettes de Poisson)
Ingredients -
J lb. cooked Fish.
J lb. cooked Potatoes.
1 oz. Butter.
1 yolk of Egg.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 tea-spoonful
Essence.
Pepper and Salt.
A little Flour,
Bread-crumbs.
Anchovy
and
Method. - ^The remains of any cold cooked fish
may be used for making fish-cakes. Free the
fish from all skin and bone, then weigh it. Chop
it finely, being most careful to remove any small
bones, which might be most dangerous if left
in. Sieve the potatoes, or put them through
a vegetable presser, and chop the parsley very
finely. Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add
to it the fish, potatoes, parsley, yolk of egg,
and seasonings, and mix well together over the
fire. Turn out on to a plate, smooth over with
a knife, and set aside to cool. \Vhen the mixture
feels firm, divide it into ten or twelve small
pieces. Flour the hands, take one piece at a
time, and roll it into a ball, laying them as they
are formed on a slightly floured board. Then
with a knife, also floured, flatten them slightly,
and shape them into neat round cakes. Egg
and bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling fat
to a nice brown coloiu*. Drain well, and serve
piled high on a hot dish with a dish-paper under
them, and garnish with parsley.
Note. - Well-boiled and dried rice may be
used instead of potatoes.
Method. - Chop the meat finely, removing any
{Fr.
Ingredients -
i lb. uncooked Fish.
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Bread-crumbs.
1 gill of Jlilk.
AVTiite Sauce.
Fish Cream
Creme de Poisson)
1 gill Double Cream.
1 white of Egg.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Weigh the fish, free from skin an-i
bone, and slired it down finely with a knife.
Put it into a mortar, and pound it well. Rinse
out a small saucepan with cold water, to prevent
the mixture sticking to it. Put into it the
134
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
butter and the milk, and bring them to the boil
over the fire. Then add the bread-crumbs, and
stir with a wooden spoon over the fire until the
bread-crumbs swell and tlie mixture thickens.
Add tliis mixture to the fisli in the mortar, pound
well together, and rub tlirough a wire sieve,
scraping the sieve underneath.
Put the mixture into a basin, and season to
taste. Beat up the white of egg with a knife
on a plate imtil stiff, and whip the cream in a
beisin with a wire whisk until tliick. Add both
these to the fish mixture, and stir them in as
lightly as possible with an iron spoon. Pour
the mixture into a well-greased mould. The
mould must not be more than half -filled. Twist
a piece of greased paper over the top of it, and
steam slowly for half-an-hour, or until firm to the
touch. Tvirn out carefully on to a hot dish, and
pour ancho\-y or white sauce round it.
Note. - This may be steamed in a border
mould, and the inside afterwards filled with
green peas, or oysters mixed with a little of the
sauce.
Fish Cuny
Ingredients -
i lb. cooked Fish.
1 oz. Butter.
1 small Apple, or
1 stick of Rhubarb.
1 small Onion.
1 tea-spoonful Currj- Towder.
Method. - Melt the butter in a saucepan and
add the onion and apple or rhubarb cut in small
pieces. Cook until a nice brown colour, and
add the chutney, curry powder, rice flour,
pepper and salt. Stir until boiling and then
simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Rub the
sauce through a sieve and return it to the sauce-
pan to re-heat. Add the fish, broken in flakes
and free from skin and bone. Allow it to got
thoroughly hot, and add the lemon juice at the
last. A little cream is an improvement. Serve
boiled rice separately.
Fish Custard Puddings
i tea-spoonful Chutney.
1 gill Fish Stock.
1 tea-spoonful Rice Flour.
Pepper and Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
2 whites of Eggs.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
A little Coralline Pepper.
Feppar and Salt.
Ingredients -
I lb. cooked Flah.
i pint Milk.
4 yolks of Eggs.
1 tea-spoonful Anchovy
Essence.
Method. - Grcstso very carefully about six
dariol moulds or tiny basins, and decorate each
one at the foot with a little finely-chopped parsley
or coralline popper. Free the fish from all skin
and bone, and then weigh it. Chop it rather
finely, and about half-fill the moulds. Make a
custard with the eggs and milk. Beat up the
6ggs, yolks and whites, in a basin, and add the
milk. Season with white popper, salt, and
anchovy essence. Strain and pour over the
fish. Place the moulds in a tin with boiUng
water to reach half-way up the sides, cover
with greased paper, and poach in the oven or
on the top of the stove until the custards are
sot, about fifteen minutes. Turn out and
serve hot.
Note. - Tliese are excellent made with cold
salmon.
Fish Cutlets
{Fr. Cotelettes de Poisson)
Ingredients -
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 tea-sp. Anchovy Essence.
Pepper and Salt.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
J lb. cooked Fish.
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
1 gill Milk or Fish Stock.
1 yolk of Egg.
Method. - Free the fish carefully from all skin
and bone, then weigh and chop it finely. Melt
the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and mix
with a wooden spoon until smooth ; then poxir
in the milk or fish stock, and stir until the
mixtm-e boils and draws away from the sides of
the saucepan. Remove the pan from the fire,
add the fish, yolk of egg, and seasonings, and
mix well together. Tm-n the mixture out on
to a plate, smooth over with a knife, and set
aside in a cool place until firm. Divide into
eight equal-sized pieces, and finish in the same
way aa lobster cutlets (p. 137).
Fish Omelet
{Fr. Omelette au Poisson)
Ingredients -
2 oz. cooked Fish. I 2 Eggs.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley. I Pepper aud Salt.
1 oz. Butter.
Method. - Free the fish from skin and bon.j,
and chop it finely. Separate the yolks and
whites of the eggs. Put the yolks into a
medium-sized basin, and the whites on to a
plate. Add to the yolks the chopped fish,
parsley, pepper and salt, and work these well
together with a wooden spoon until of a creamy
consistency. Beat up the whites of the eggs
on the plate with a broad-bladed knife until so
stiff that you could turn the plate upside down
without the whites falling off. Remove the
wooden spoon from the basin, and with an iron
one stir into it the beaten whites lightly and
thoroughly. Molt the butter in an omelet pan,
and poiu" the mixture into it, scraping out the
basin as quickly as possible. Stir the mixture
round \^'ith an iron spoon until it begins to set,
stirring mostlj' on the surface, and not scraping
the foot of the pan. Then hold it a little longer
over the fire vmtil the omelet is nicely browned
on the under-side. Slip a knife under it, and
double over first from one side and then from
the other towards the centre. If not quite
cooked on the top, hold it in front of the fire for
a minute or two. Then turn it on to a hot dish
GUIDE TO COOKERY
135
with a fish-paper on it, and serve as quickly
as possible.
Note. - One or two table-spoonfuls of cream
added to the mixture is an improvement.
J lb. cooked Potatoes.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
A little Milk.
Fish Pie with Potatoes
Ingredients -
J lb. cooked Fish.
1 gill White Sauce.
1 hard-boiled Egg.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Break the fish into flakes, free from
skin and bone, and put it into a greased pie-
dish. Sprinkle with white pepper, salt, and a
Uttle lemon juice, and put the egg cut in slices
on the top. Make the sauce by melting ^ oz.
butter in a small pan, add ^ oz. flour and mix
until smooth, pour in 1 gill of milk or fish stock,
and stir until boiling and thick. Season to
taste, and pour this sauce over the fish and egg.
Melt the butter or dripping in a saucepan,
have the potatoes sieved, and add them to it ;
season with white pepper and salt, and moisten
with a Uttle milk. Pile this on the top of the
fish, &c., and smooth over with a knife. Mark
up the sides with a fork or the point of a knife,
and brush over with milk or beaten egg. Bake
in a moderate oven until nicely browned, and
serve hot.
Gateau of Fish and Bice
Ingredients -
4 lb. Carolina Rice.
i pint Fish Stock or Milk.
2 Eggs.
J lb. Fish (cooked).
1 oz. Butter.
Grated rind of i Lemon.
Pepper and Salt.
1 tea-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
A little Coralline Pepper.
Method. - Wash the rice, and put it into a
saucepan with the milk or stock. Allow it to
cook slowly until quite soft, adding more liquid
if necessary. Then add to it the fish chopped,
the butter, pepper, salt, and grated lemon rind.
Beat up the eggs and add them, mixing well.
Then grease a plain mould or basin, and decorate
it with chopped parsley and a little coralline
pepper ; pour the mixture into this ; cover with
greased paper, and steam slowly from one to
one and a half hours, until Qira to the touch.
Turn out on a hot dish, and serve with or
without sauce.
Fish Pie with Macaroni
{Fr. Poisson au Macaroni)
Ingredients -
J lb. J'ish, cooked or un-
cooked.
J lb. Macaroni.
* pint White Sauce.
\ oz. Butter.
Lemon Juice.
A little grated Lemon Bind.
Pepper and Salt.
1 table-spoonful Bread-
crumbs.
Method. - Put the macaroni into a saucepan of
hot water and boil until quite soft, drain, and
chop it rather small. Remove all skin and
bone from the fish, and cut it into small pieces,
or if cooked, break it into flakes. Grease a pie-
dish, and put in half the fish, seasoning with
pepper, salt, a Uttle grated lemon rind, and
lemon juice. Next put in half the macaroni
and half the sauce, then the remainder of the
fish, more seasoning, and the rest of the macaroni
and sauce. Sprinkle the bread-crumbs over the
top, and place the butter on in small pieces.
Wipe round the edges of the pie-dish, and bake
in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes if the fish
is cooked, or half-an-hoiir if uncooked fish is
used. Brown the pie nicely on the top, and
serve hot, garnished with sprigs of parsley.
Note. - A few oysters, picked shrimps, or
hard-boiled egg, cut in sUces, may be added to
this pie.
Another very good pie can be made by
using cooked and sieved potatoes in place of
the macaroni.
Steamed Fish Pudding
{Fr. Ponding de Poisson)
Ingredients -
1 tea-sp. Anchovy Essence.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
Anchory or Parsley Sauce.
i lb. cooked Fish.
2 oz. Bread-crumbs.
1 oz. Butter.
1 gill Milk.
lEgg.
Method. - First grease a plain mould or basin,
or several small moulds, with clarified butter,
and sprinkle the chopped parsley over the
inside. Free the fiish from all skin and bone,
and chop it finely. Put it into a basin with the
bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, and anchovy essence.
Put the milk and butter into a small saucepan,
bring them to the boil, and then poiu* over the
ingredients in the basin. Let these soak for a
few minutes, then add the egg well beaten.
IMix together, and pour into the prepared mould
or moulds. Cover with gi-eased paper and
steam from ten to fifteen minutes if in small
movilds, and for half-an-hour if done in one
large mould. When ready, the mixture should
be fijrm to the touch. Turn out on to a hot
dish, and serve with anchovy or parsley sauce
poured round.
Method. - Sieve the potatoes, add to them the
butter molted, the yolk of egg, cheese, and
seasonings. Mis well together, and if not
136
THE WOMAIs^S BOOK
sufficiently moist add a very little milk. Butter
a basin or plain mould, and sprinkle it with the
bread-crumbs. Lino the bottom and sides -with
the potato mixture, keeping back a Uttlc for
the top. Then remove all sldn and bone from
the fish, mix it vrith the wliite sauce, and add
parsley and seasoning to tasto. Hard-boiled
egg cut in pieces, oj'sters, ancho\'y, or mush-
rooms may bo added. The mixture must not
be too moist. Put it into the prepared mould,
and cover with the rest of the potato mixture.
Make the top very smooth with a knife. Bake
in a moderate oven about forty minutes. Place
a hot dish on the top, invert the mould, and let
it stand a few minutes. Then carefully with-
draw the mould. Serve plain or with white
sauce.
Scalloped Fish
{Fr. Coquilles de Poisson)
Ingredients -
} lb. cooked Fish.
1 gill Whit-e Sauce.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
VMiite Pepper and Salt
1 table-spoonful browned
Crumbs.
J oz. Butter.
Some Scallop Shells.
Method. - Flake any nice white fish (herring
or mackerel would be too rich) into neat pieces.
Season the fish with white pepper, salt, and
a few drops of lemon juice. Butter some clean
scallop shells and sprinkle \\-ith a few bread-
crumbs. Put in a spoonful of sauce •with some
of the prepared fish on the top, and continue
putting in fish and sauce in layers until the
shells are full. Ck)ver the top with bread-crumbs
and a few tiny pieces of butter. Bake in a
moderate oven imtil nicely browned and serve
very hot.
Notes. - A little grated parmesan or a few
oysters or picked shrimps may be added to the
sauce if wished, and a little cream is always an
improvement.
A fireproof dish may be used instead of the
scallop shells.
Stuffed Fillets of Haddock
{Fr. Filets d'Eglefin Farcis)
Stuffing -
Ingredients -
2 small filleted Haddocks.
I'epper and Salt.
Lemon Juice.
2 table-spoonfuls browned
Bread-ciTimbs.
Maitre d'Had Butter.
Anchovy or I'araley Sance.
Butter.
Grated I-emon Kind.
Pepper and .Salt
A little Milk.
Method. - Wipe the fish with a clean cloth,
end cut them in half lengthways. Lay them
out on a board with the side which the skin
was taken off uppermost, and sosison each piece
with white pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice.
Prepare the stuffing as directed on p. 169,
lay a little on each fillet, and roll them
up, commencing at the thick end, and rolling
towcu-ds the tail. Stand them up on a greased
tin, cover with a piece of greased paper, and
bake in a moderate oven about fifteen niinutes,
or imtil the fish has lost its clear appearance,
and looks quite wliite. When ready, roll the
pieces in some fine browned bread-crumbs,
coating them well. Place them on a hot dish,
pour some anchovy or parsley sauce round,
and put a small pat of maitre d'hotel butter on
the top of each.
Smoked Haddock Balls
Ingredients -
6 oz. cooked Smoked
Iladdock.
6 oz. cooked or sieved
Potatoes.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
1 hard-boiled Egg.
1 yolk of Egg.
A little Milk.
I'epper and .Suit.
A little Flour.
E^g and Bread-crumbs.
Method. - Chop the fish finely, being most
careful to remove all skin and small bones.
Chop also the hard-boiled egg and sieve the
potatoes. Melt the butter or dripping in a
saucepan, and put in the potatoes, fish, and
hard-boiled egg. Add the raw yolk of egg,
and season to taste with pepper and salt. Mix
all together over the fire, and if too dry add a
little milk. Turn the mixture on to a plate,
and then form into balls. Egg and bread-
crumb, and fry in boiling fat.
Smoked or Finnan Haddock Stewed in Milk
Ingredients -
1 Smoked Haddock.
i pint Milk.
1 oz. Butter.
J oz. Flour.
Pepper.
Sippets of Toast.
Methods. - Dip the haddock into boiling water
for a minute or two, then remove the skin and
all fins. Cut the fish in neat-sized pieces, put
them into a saucepan with the milk, and simmer
slowly about fifteen minutes or until the fish
is quite tender. Then lift out the pieces of
fish, and keep them hot on a dish. Work the
butter and flour together on a plate with a
knife, and when thoroughly blended add them
to the milk in the pan. Stir over the fire, and
cook a few minutes. Add a pinch of pepper,
and strain this sauce over tlie fish. Geumish
with sippets of toast, and serve hot.
Halibut with Tomatoes
(Fr. Fletan aux Tomates)
Ingredients -
]} lbs. Halibut
3 or 4 Fresh Tomatoes.
1 table-spoonful Flour.
Pepper and Salt
I Juice of J a Lemon.
2 table-spoonfuls
crumbs.
I i oz. Butter.
Bread-
Method. - Wash the halibut, and cut it into
small neat pieces free from skin and bone.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
137
Put the flour on to a plate, and coat each piece
of fish lightly with it. Let the tomatoes soak
in boihng water for a few minutes, then hft
them out, dry, and skin them. Put them on
a plate and cut them in shoes. Grease out a
pie-dish with a little butter, lay in a few pieces
of fish, and season with pepper, salt, and lemon
juice. Over these put some of the tomatoes,
then more fish and seasoning, and so on until
all is in. ]\Iake the top layer tomatoes ; sprinkle
the bread-crumbs over last of all, and put the
butter on in small pieces. Bake in a moderate
oven from three-quarters to one hour, and brown
nicely on the top. When ready remove from
the oven and wipe round the edges of the pie-
dish. Place the pie on a dish, and serve very
hot.
Halibut (Mayonnaise of)
(Fr. Fletan a la Mayonnaise)
Required -
Halibut. I rarsley, Lobster Coral or
Xfayonnaise Sauce. I Salad to garnish.
Method. - Boil a nice middle cut of halibut,
being careful not to overcook it, or it will lose
its shape. Drain well, and remove the skin.
When quite cold, Uft on to a clean dish, and
pour over enough Mayonnaise sauce to coat it
nicely. Garnish with some finely chopped
parsley or lobster coral sprinkled lightly over
it, and rovmd the dish arrange some sprigs of
parsley or some nice leaves of lettuce or cress.
Cucumber or tomato salad would make a nice
accompaniment to this dish.
Note. - Cold halibut c an also be served quite
simply without the sauce. It should be prettily
garnished and accompanied with salad.
Fresli Herring au Gratin
(Fr. Harengs au Gratin)
Required -
4 fresh Herring.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
Mustard Sauce.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Mushrooms.
1 oz. Butter.
Browned Crumbs.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Butter a gratin dish rather thickly
with some of the butter, and sprinkle over the
foot half the parsley and half the muslirooms.
Have the herring nicely cleaned and trimmed,
remove the heads, and score the skin across in
several places. Lay the fish in the dish, season
them well, and sprinkle with the remainder
of the parsley and muslirooms. Cover with
browned bread-crumbs, and put the rest of
the butter in small pieces on the top. Bake in
a moderate oven about twenty minutes, and
.serve with mustard sauce (if Ukod) in a sauce-
boat.
Pickled Herring
(Fr. Harengs Marines)
Required -
3 or 4 Herring.
1 table-spoonful Flour,
i tea-spoonful powdered
Mace.
Pepper and Salt.
4 or 5 Cloves.
12 Peppercorns.
Brown Vinegar and Water.
Method. - Wash and clean the herring, cutting
off the heads and the fins, and scraping the
skin well with a knife. Dry them in a cloth,
and then spUt them open, and remove all the
bones. Cut each herring in two lengthwaj'S.
Put the flour, pepper, salt, and mace on to a
plate, and mix them well together. Dip each
piece of herring into this, and roll them up from
the tliick end towards the tail. Pack them into a
greased pie -dish, putting them in two layers if
necessary. Pour round them in equal quantities
water and brown vinegar, enough to half fill
the dish. Put in the cloves and peppercorns.
A bay leaf may also be added. Place small
pieces of dripping here and there over the top,
and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.
Set aside till cold. Serve as many pieces of
fish as will be required at one time on a clean
dish, pour a httle of the hquid round them,
and garnish with parsley. Herring done in
this way will keep for several days. More
xanegar should be added if required. Do not
let the fish become too dry.
Note. - Mackerel may be prepai'ed in the
same way.
Lobster Cutlets
(Ft. Cotelettes de Homard)
Ingredients -
1 table-spoonftil Cream.
A sijueeze of Lemon Juice.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Spawn or CoraL
\ oz. Butter.
Egg and Bread-cnimbs.
1 Hen Lobster.
1 oz. Butter.
li oz. Flour.
1 gill "Water }- Panada.
or Fish
Stock.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Remove all the flesh from a boiled
lobster, and chop it very finely, carefully keep-
ing back any little pieces of shell. Pound some
spawn or coral in a mortar with the half ounce
of butter, and rub it tlirough a hair sieve. Tlus
is called lobstor butter.
Make a panada by putting the butter and
water or stock into a saucepan, and when they
boil, stirring in the flour. Mix well with a
wooden spoon vmtil perfectly smooth and well
cooked. Tlien add the lobster, the lobster
butter, cream, and seasonings. Jlix well
together, and turn out on a plate to cool.
^Vhen cold and firm, form the mixtiu-e into
small cutlet-shaped pieces, using a little flour
to enable you to shape them more easily. Then
egg and bread-crumb thorn and fry in hot fat
to a golden brown. Drain well on kitchen
138
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
paper, and stick a small piece of the feeler or a
piece of parsley stalk into the narrow end of
each to represent a bone. Dish in a circle on a
hot dish with a dish paper iinder them, and
garnish with fried parsley.
Note. - Crab Cutlets may be made in the
same way.
Mussels a la Poulette
{Fr. Moules a la Poulette)
Ingredients -
1 quart Mussels.
1 Onion.
A few sprigs of Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
I pint ^^'hite Wine.
i oz. Butter.
i oz. Flour.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
1 yolk of Egg.
Method. - Choose small mussels ; they are
the most deUcate. Scrape the shells carefully
with a knife, and wash weU in cold water,
changing the water several times until the
mussels are quite free from grit. Put the
mussels into a saut4 pan or shallow stewpan,
with the onion thinly sliced, sprigs of peirsley,
white wine, pepper and salt. Cover the pan,
put it on the fire, and toss the mussels occa-
sionally. When the shells open, the mussels
are done. Drain them, and strain the liquor
into a basin. Remove the shells from the
mussels and carefully remove the piece which
looks like a weed. Melt the butter in the pan,
add the floiu*, and mix until smooth with a
wooden spoon. Poiir in the strained liquor,
and stir until boiling. Add the yolk of egg and
chopped parsley, and allow the sauce to thicken,
but do not boil again. Put in the mussels to
re-heat and serve at once.
Oyster Souffles (Baked)
{Fr. Petite Souffles d'Huitres)
Ingredients -
IJ dozen Oysters. 1 oz. Butter.
1 Whiting. 1 oz. Bread-crumbs.
2 Eggs. 1 gill Oyster Liquor, Milk,
2 table-spoonfuls Cream. or Fish .Stock.
■\Miite Pepper and Salt. A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
A pinch of Cayenne. A pinch of Nutmeg.
Mctlwd. - Put the oysters into a saucepan
with their liquor, bring to the boil and strain.
Then remove the gristle, and break them into
small pieces with a fork. Scrape the flesh from
the whiting, free it from all skin and bono, and
pound well in a mortar. Melt the butter in a
small pan, add the oyster liquor and bread-
crumbs, and stir over the fire until the mixture
thickens. Add this panada to the whiting in
the mortar, pound again for a few minutes,
and then rub through a fine wire sieve. Put
the sieved mixture into a basin, and add the
oysters, yolks of eggs, soeisoning, and cream.
Mix well. Beat up the whites of eggs to a stiff
froth on a plate, and stir them lightly into the
mixture with an iron spoon. Pour into small
greased souffl6 case^, cliina or paper, and bake
in a moderate oven for about fifteen minutes,
until well risen and firm to the touch. When
ready, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve
quickly.
Perch (To Stew with Wine)
{Fr. Perche au Via Blanc)
Ingredients -
3 or 4 Perch.
WTjite Stock and Sherry.
2 Bay Leares.
A few Parsley Stalks.
1 small Onion.
2 or 3 Cloves.
I 1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
1 tea-spoonful
Essence.
Pepper and Salt.
Aachovy
Method. - ^Wash and clean the fish thorouglily,
scrape well to remove the scales, and cut off
the fins. Lay the perch in a stewpan with
equal quantities of sherry and stock to cover
them. Add the bay leaves, cloves, parsley
stalks, and onion thinly sUced. Season with
pepper and salt, put the lid on the pan, and
stew slowly until tender, about twenty minutes.
When ready, lift the fish carefully on to a hot
dish, and strain the hquid into a basin. Put
the butter into the pan, and let it melt over the
fire. Add the flour, and mix with a wooden
spoon until smooth. Then pour in the strained
liquor, add the anchovy essence, and stir over
the fire until boiling. The sauce must be of a
consistency to coat the fish. If too thin, allow
it to reduce for a few minutes ; if too thick,
add more stock or sherry. Pour this over the
fish, and serve hot.
Note. - Perch may also be boiled or fried.
Red Mullets au Gratin
(Ft. Rougets au Gratin)
Ingredients -
2 Red Mullete.
i glass of Sherry.
1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.
1 tea-si)oonful Anchovy
Essence.
3 or 4 Button Mushrooms.
1 oz. Butter.
chopped
1 tea-spoonful
Parsley.
} tea-sp. chopped Union.
Orated rind of | a Lemon.
1 table-spoonful browned
Bread-crumbs.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Wash and clean the mullets, cutting
off the heads and fins, and dry them in a cloth.
Greeise a gratin dish with some of the butter,
and sprinkle over it half the chopped parsley,
mushrooms, and onion, and a little grated lemon
rind. Score the fish across once or twice with
a knife, and lay them on the top. Sprinkle
with popper and salt and the remainder of the
chopped ingredients. Pour over the wine,
ketchup, and anchovy sauce, and cover with
browned bread-crumbs. Put the rest of the
butter in small pieces on the top, and bake in a
moderate oven about twenty minutes. Wipe
the dish, and garnish with parsley before serving.
GUIDE TO COOKEKY
139
Russian Fish Pie
{Fr. Pat^ de Poisaon a la Russe)
Ingredients -
J lb. White Fish.
1 tea-spoonful chopped
Parsley.
1 hard-boiled Egg.
Vhite Pepper and Salt.
1 table-sp. White Sauce.
A little grated Lemon Rind
and Lemon Juice.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Kough Puff Pastry.
Method. - The fish for this pie may either be
cooked or uncooked according to the kind used.
Cod, halibut, or turbot would require to be
cooked first, but such fish as haddock, sole, or
whiting may be used raw. Break or cut the
fish into small neat pieces and put them on
a plate. Seeison with pepper, salt, cayenne,
grated lernon rind and lemon juice. Add the
white sauce and hard-boiled egg cut in small
pieces and mix all carefully together.
Make the proportion of pastry with ^ lb. of flour
(see p. 164), and roll it out to a square shape and
about one-tighth of an inch in thickness. Trim
the edges with a sharp knife, reserving the scraps
for decorating the pie. Put the fish mixture in
the centre of the square, wet the corners of the
pastry with cold water or beaten egg and fold
them upwards, making them meet and overlap
slightly in the centre Uke a handkerchief sachet.
Press the joins well together and brush the pie
over with beaten egg. Decorate the top with
some leaves cut out of the scraps of pastry
that were trimmed off. Brush over the leaves
also with beaten egg and lift the pie very care-
fully on to a greased baking-tin. Bake in a
good oven from three-quarters to one hoiu",
until the pastry is thoroughly cooked and of a
brown colour. Serve h >t garnished with parsley.
Notes. - Cooked salmon may be used for this
pie.
Sometimes a little cooked rice is mixed with
the fish.
A few oysters or picked shrimps may be added.
Salmon (Mayonnaise of)
{Fr. Mayonnaise de Saumon)
Required - Decorations -
A middle cut of Salmon. Lobster, Coral, TruflBe,
Mayonnaise Sauce. Parsley, Lettuce, Endive,
Aspic Jelly. or Cucumber.
Method. - Boil a nice cut of salmon, remove
the skin, and let it become cold. Put it on to
a clean dish, and coat with thick Mayonnaise
sauce, to which liquid aspic heis been added in the
proportion of half gill to half pint of sauce. Use
the sauce in a setting condition, covering the
fish all over, and then set aside until filrm.
Garnish with anytlung suitable, such as lobster,
coral, truffle, parsley, lettuce, endive, cucum-
ber, &c. A border of chopped aspic will make
a pretty finish to the dish.
Notes. - ^Remains of cold salmon may be used
for this dish. The fish ought to be flaked, piled
liigh on a dish, and then coated with sauce.
Potted Salmon
Ingredients -
\ lb. cooked Salmon.
2 oE. Butter.
1 tea-spoonful Anchovy or
Shrimp Essence.
J tea-spoonful Vinegar.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of powdered Mace.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - Free the salmon from all skin and
bone, and then weigh it. Put it into a mortar
with most of the butter melted, and season to
taste and rather highly. Pound well until
smooth, and then rub through a sieve. Pack
this smoothly into a small pot or jar, and run
the rest of the butter over the top, which will
preserve the mixt\u-e and prevent it from be-
coming dry. This makes dehghtful sandwiches,
when a little thinly sliced cucumber or small
cress would be an improvement.
Note. - Other fish, such as cod, halibut, brill,
or mackerel, may be used in the same way.
Required -
i dozen Scallops.
Pepper and Salt.
Fried Scallops
{Fr. Coquilles Frits)
A little Flour.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
Method. - Wipe the scallops and cut them in
two pieces. Dry them with a httle flour and
then coat with egg and bread-crumbs. Fry a
nice brown colour in boiling fat, drain and serve
garnished with cut lemon and parsley.
Scalloped Scallops
Required -
Scallops.
Pepper and Salt.
Lemon Juice.
WTiite Bread-crumbs.
A little chopped Parsley.
Butter.
Method. - Choose perfectly fresh scallops, open
and remove them from the shells. Cut off the
beards and black part, and wash them thoroughly.
Wash and scrub the deeper shells and dry them.
Grease them with butter, and sprinkle a few
white bread-crumbs over. Lay three scallops
into each shell, and season them with pepper,
salt, lemon juice, and a little chopped parslej'.
Cover with more bread-crumbs, and put some
small pieces of butter on the top. Brown
quickly in a hot oven or before the fire. Serve
on a hot dish \%-ith a dish paper under them,
and garnish %vith cut lemon and parsley.
Shrimp Patties
{Fr. Petits PAtes de Crevettes)
Ingredients -
J lb. picked Shrimps.
2 table-sp. WTiite Sauce.
1 tea-sp. Shrimp Essence.
2 table-spoonfuls Cream.
Method. - Heat the sauce, add the shrimps
and seasoning and mix well. Poiu* in the cream
and make thoroughly hot before using.
Pepper and Salt
A pinch of Cayenne.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Rough Puff or Puff Pastry.
uo
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
To niake the Patties. - ilake the pastry cases
according to directions given on p. 165 (first
or second method), and fill thorn witli the
shrimp mixture. Put on the lids of pastry and
garnish with sprigs of parsley. Serve on a
liot dish with a d'oyley or dish-paper under
them.
Note. - Lobster or Oyster Patties can be made
in the same way, using small pieces of cooked
lobster or oysters instead of the shrimps.
The wliite sauce shovdd be made, if possible,
with fisli Steele.
Sole a la Bechamel
{Fr. Sole a la Bechamel)
Ingredients -
1 Sole.
J 02. Butter.
i oz. Flour.
il gills Fish Stock.
1 table-spoonful Cream.
Pepper and Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Decoration.
Method. - Prepare and cook in the same way
as Sole au Parniesan (see below), omitting the
cheese and adding a little cream to the sauce.
Decorate with chopped parsley, chopped truffle,
hard-boiled and sieved yolk of egg or lobster
coral, or alternate strips of each.
Sole au Gratin
(Ft. Sole au Gratin)
Prepare and cook in the same way as red
mullets au gratin.
Fillets of Sole au Parmesan
{Fr. Filets de Sole au Parmesan)
Ingredients -
1 Sole.
2 oz. grated Parmesan.
Pepper and Salt
A pinch of Cayenne.
J oz. Butter.
J oz. Flour.
li gills Fish Stock.
A little Lemon Juice.
Method. - Skin and fillet the fish. Wash the
trimmings and bones, and put them into a
saucepan with one gill of water and one gill of
milk, a small piece of onion, a bay leaf, a blade
of mace, and some parsley stalks. Simmer
slowly for fifteen minutes, and strain this stock
ready for use. Trim the fillets neatly, and lay
them on a board v^-ith the side from which the
skin was taken uppermost. Season with popper,
salt, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Double
each fillet over lengthways, place them on a
greased baking-tin, cover with greased paper,
and bake from ten to fifteen minutes. Make
a sauce with the butter, flour, and stock and
season with pepper, salt, and caj'enne. The
sauce must be thick enough to coat the fish.
Add most of the cheese to the sauce, but do not
boil again. Dish the fillets on a hot dish, one
leaning against the other ; povir the sauce over,
and sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the top.
Brown in the oven and serve hot.
Note. - Fillets of any other white fish may be
prepared in the same way.
Whitebait (to Fry)
(Fr. Blanchailles)
Required -
Whitebait
Flour
Method. - ^These fish must be perfectly fresh,
and should be carefully looked over and put
into water with a lump of ice in it, and kept
there until required. Have ready on the fire a
saucepan of boiling fat or oil (see French Frying,
p. 130). Put two or three table -spoonfuls of
flour on the centre of a clean cloth, di'ain some
of the wliitebait free from water in a colander,
and then shake them lightly in the flour.
Empty the bait without delay into a frying
basket, and shake well to let the loose floiir drop
out. Plunge it into hot fat and let the fish fry
for a minute or two. Then lift out the basket
of fish and lot the fat re-heat ; put in the fish
a second time and fry till crisp and lightly
browned. If there is a quantity of whitebait
to be cooked it is a good plan to fry it all the
first time and lot it drain, and give it the second
frying just when it is required. Serve garnished
with quarters of lemon and fried parsley, and
hand brown bread and butter separately.
Note. - Devilled Whitebait is prepared by
sprinkling the fish ^vith black or red pepper
b<3fore the final frying.
SAUCES- SAVOURY AND SWEET
General Notes on Sauce-malcing. - Sauces are
easily made if the rules for making them are
closely followed and the various ingredients
carefully measured to the exact quantities given
in the recipes.
The basis of most sauces is butter and flour
cooked together, which makes a thickening. This
thickening is frequently called a " roux." If for
a white sauce, the flour and butter are not
coloured ; if for a brown, the butter is first allowed
to take colour and then the flour is cooked until
brown. To this thickening is added the liquid
and seasoning suitable to the dish with which
the sauce has to be served. After the liquid is
poured on to the thickening the sauce must be
stirred constantly until boiling or it will be
lumpy. Sauces frequently have a raw taste
owing to the flour in them not being properly
GUIDE TO COOKERY
141
cooked. No sauce is ready as soon as it
thickens ; it must boil at least three minutes.
The thickness of the sauce can be regulated
according to the purpose for wliich it is to be
used by adding more or less liquid.
When wine is required allow the sauce to boil
for two or three minutes after it has been added
in order to blend the flavour. If cream is added
let it boil in the sauce for a minute or two. Be-
fore adding yolks of eggs to a sauce, draw the
saucepan to the side of the fire and drop them
in one at a time, stirring briskly, and do not boil
again. When lemon juice is added to any sauce
containing milk or cream, add it last of all, and
do not boil again. Strain aU sauces before \ising
except those which have a chopped ingredient
served in them such as caper, parsley, egg
sauce, &c.
The best sauces are usually rubbed through a
hair sieve or wrung through a tammy-cloth, to
make them perfectly smooth and velvety in
appearance. The washing of the tammy-cloth
must be carefully attended to, or it is apt to
give the sauce an unpleasant flavour.
To Keep Sauces Warm. - Stand the saucepan
containing them inside another pan of hot water
and cover the sauce with a Ud to prevent a skin
forming on the top. With very thick sauces a
little water may be run over the top.
Sauce AUemande
Ingredients -
1 pint Velout^
(p. 146).
Sauce
3 yolks of Eggs.
J oz. Butter.
Method. - Put the velout^ sauce into a sauce-
pan, and let it boil nntil reduced one-foiu'th.
Then di'aw the pan to the side of the fire, and
add the yolks of eggs and butter. Stir briskly,
and cook for a minute or two over a slow fire.
Do not boil again, or the sauce wiU curdle.
Strain tlirough a fine strainer or tammy before
using.
Anchovy Sauce
{Fr. Bemre d'Anchois)
1 dessert-spoonful Anchovy
Essence.
White Pepper and Salt to
taste.
Ingredients -
J oz. Butter.
\ oz. Flour.
i pint Fish Stock or 1 gill
of Milk and 1 gill of
Water.
Method. - Melt the but<.er in a small lined
saucepan, add the flour, and mix smoothly with
a wooden spoon. Cook for a minute or two over
the firo without discolouring, and then draw the
pan to tho side before adding the liqiiid. Fish
stock will give tho sauce a better flavour ; but if
that is not to be had, use milk and water. Add
the liquid gradually, then return the pan to the
fire, and keep stirring constantly until boiling.
Add the anchovy essence, and season to taste
with white pepper and salt.
Note, - Preserved anchovies may be used
instead of the anchovy essence. Three or four
will be required for the above quantity of sauce.
Lift them out of the oil in which they are pre-
served, dip them for a minute into warm water,
and then scrape o2 the silver skin. Pound
them in a mortar, and rub through a wire or hair
sieve. Scrape the sieve well underneath, and
add this paste to the sauce.
Apple Sauce
[Fr. Sauce aux Pommas)
Ingredients -
3 or 4 Apples.
J oz. Butter.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
i gill of Water.
1 table-spoonful
Sugar.
Brown
White Pepper and Salt
A pinch of Cayenne.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - Wipe the apples with a cloth, then
peel, core and sUce them thinly. Put them into a
lined saucepan with the water, sugar and nutmeg.
Let them stew slowly until reduced to a pulp
and stir frequently with a wooden spoon. Add
the butter and mash them until smooth or rub
through a hair sieve. Make thoroughly hot
before serving.
Bechamel Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Bechamel)
Irigredients -
li oz. Butter.
IJ oz. Flour.
1 pint Seasoned Milk.
J gill Cream.
Method. - Melt the butter in a lined saucepan,
add tho floor, and mis smoothly with a wooden
spoon. Cook for a minute or two over the fire,
but do not brown. Di'aw the saucepan to one
side of the fire, and add the milk all at once.
Return to the fire, and stir constantly xmtil
boiling. Add the cream and seasoning, and
cook for a minute or two longer. Remove the
saucepan from the fire before adding the lemon
juice, and strain before using.
Note. - Seasoned Milk - (1) Put as much milk
as is required into a lined saucepan, with a small
piece of carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, a bay
leaf, one or two cloves, and a few parsley stalks.
Let the saucepan stand by the side of the fire
until the milk is well seasoned, then strain and
cool before using.
(2) More or less milk may be added, according
to the thickness of the sauce required. If con-
sidered too rich, the cream may be omitted.
(3) If used for masking meat, this sauce must
have two or three leaves of gelatine or somo
aspic jelly added to it.
Black Butter
{Fr. Beurre Noir)
Ingredients -
2 oz. Butter.
1 table-spoonful Vinegar.
Method. - Melt the butt"r in a small saucepan,
and stir it briskly until it becomes quite brown.
1 dessert-sp. Minced Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
142
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
but not burnt. Mince the parsley rather |
coarsely, throw it in, and add the v-inegar and
seaisoning. Simmer a minute or two and the
sauce will be ready for serving.
Black butter is frequently served with fish.
(Fr.
Ingredients -
i pint Milk.
2 oz. Bread-crumbs.
} amall Otiion.
3 or 4 Cloves.
Bread Sauce
Sauce au Pain)
J oz. of Butter or
1 table-spoonful Cream.
■\Miite Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - Rinse out a small lined saucepan with
cold water and put into it the milk and the piece
of onion stuck with cloves. Set this by the side
of the fire and simmer very gently until the milk
is well flavoured. Then remove the onion and
cloves and eidd the bread-crumbs, which must
be finely made by being rubbed through a wire
sieve. Stir over the fire and cook slowly until
the bread-crumbs swell and thicken the sauce.
Add the butter or cream and season to taste
with white pepper, salt, and a pinch of cayenne.
Brown Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Espagnole)
Ingredients -
1 02. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
1 pint Brown Stock.
1 small Onion.
A small piece of Carrot and
Turnip.
1 stick of Celery or J teasp.
Celery Seed.
1 dessert-sp. Ketchup.
1 tea-sp. Harvey's Sauce.
A small sprig of Thyme,
Parsley, and Marjoram.
1 Bay Leaf.
1 blade of Mace.
3 or 4 Cloves.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,
and let it brown. Add the onion, skinned
and cut, in thin sUcos, and stir until it is
brown. Add the flour, and brown it also.
Then draw the stewpan to one side, pour in
the stock, and stir over the fire until boiling.
Boil for a few minutes, and remove all scum with
an iron spoon. Have the other vegetables pre-
pared and cut small, and add them next with the
sesisonings. If celery seed is used, tie it in a piece
of muslin. Simmer the sauce slowly for at least
half -an -hour, stirring occasionally, and skimming
when neoessarj'. Strain through a fine strainer
or tammy-cloth, and ro-heat before using.
Note. - If the stock used is well flavoured,
some of the seasonings and vegetables may be
omitted-
A few chopped mushrooms and a sliced
tomato may be added if wished, also a little
wine.
Tliis sauce is the foundation for many other
brown sauces, as for instance : -
Sauce aux Olfves. - Cook one dozen or more
turned olives in a glass of sherry and add half
pint brown sauce.
Sauce Mad^re. - Add one glass Madeira and
one tea-spoonful lemon juice to half pint of
brown sauce.
Sauce Piquante. - Cook one table-spoonful
chopped capers, one tea-spoonful chopped
shallot, one table-spoonful chopped gherkin,
in lialf gill %'inegar, add half pint of brown sa\ice
and just before serving one dessert-spoonful
chopped parsley.
Caper Sauce
Sauce aux Capres)
1 table-spoonful Capers.
1 table-spoonful Vinegar.
White Pepper and Salt.
{Fr.
Ingredients -
3 oz. Butter,
i oz. Flour.
J pint Fish Stock or Meat
Boilings.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small lined
saucepan, being careful it does not brown. Add
the flour, and mix until smooth with a wooden
spoon. Cook a minute or two, then draw the
pan to the side of the fire, and pour in the liquid.
Return to the fire, and stir constantly until
boiUng. Add the capers, roughly chopped, and
season to taste with white pepper and salt. Boil
two or three minutes longer, and add the vinegs*
last.
Celery Sauce
{Fr. Sauce C6\6n)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
3 gills White Stock or Milk.
1 head of Celery.
White Pepper and Salt.
2 table-spoonfuls Cream.
Method. - Wash the celery, cut it in shreds, and
stow it slowly in the stock or milk until tender.
Then rub as much as possible through a hair or
fine wire sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan,
add the flour and cook two or three minutes.
Poizr in the celery puree and stir until boiling.
Add seasoning to taste and the cream at the
last.
Chaudfrold Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Chaudfroid)
Ingredients -
} pint Bechamel or Velout6 I 2 or 3 table-spoonfuK liquid
Sauce (see Kecipes). I Aspic,
Method. - Add the aspic to the sauce, boil for
a few minutes, and strain or tammy before
using.
Note. - This sauce is used for coating large or
small joints of meat, and care should be taken
to get it of the right consistency. If too thin,
it will not look well ; and if too thick, it will
have a lumpy appearance.
If aspic is not to be had, dissolve two sheets of
gelatine in a little water or stock, and strain it
into the sauce.
Brown Chaudfrold Sauce can be made in the
same way, substituting brown sauce for the
white and adding about a quarter of an ounce
meat glaze.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
143
Chestnut Sauce (White)
{Fr. Sauce aux Marrons)
Ingredients -
i lb. Chestnuts.
3 gills White Stoclc
2 table-spoonfuls Cream.
Kind of J Lemon.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Remove the brown outside skin
from the chestnuts, and throw them into a sauce-
pan of boiling water. Boil for a few minutes,
then drain and peel off the inside skin. Put
them back into the saucepan with the stock and
thinly peeled rind of half lemon, and simmer
slowly for one hour or longer until the chestnuts
are quite soft and pulpy. Rub them and the
stock through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon,
and return again to the saucepan. Add the
cream, season to taste, and stir until boiling.
Serve very hot.
Note. - Brown chestnut sauce may be made by
using half a pint of brown sauce and one gill of
brown stock instead of the white stock and
cream.
Cranberry Sauce
{Fr. Sauce aux Canneberges)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Cranberries. i 1 teacupful Water,
i oz. Brown Sugar. I
Method. - Pick and wash the cranberries and
stew them slowly with the water until reduced
to a pulp. Stir them frequently while cooking
and add the sugar at the last. Sometimes a
little port wine is added before serving.
Curry Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Carl)
Ingredients-
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
J oz. Rice Flour.
3 gills of Stock.
1 Onion.
1 lump of Sugar.
1 tea-sp. Curry Powder.
1 tea-sp. Chutney.
1 small Apple.
Pepper and Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - Peel and chop the apple, and skin
and slice the onion very thinly. Melt the butter
or dripping in a small stewpan, put in the apple
and onion, and fry them for a few minutes.
Next add the curry powder, rice flour, and
chutney, and mix well together with an iron
spoon. Add the stock, and stir until boiling.
Season to taste with pepper and salt, and let the
sauce simmer for half-an-hour, or until the apple
and onion are qmte soft. If a smooth sauce is
wanted, rub through a sieve before using, and
return to the saucepan to re-heat. Add the
lemon juice and sugar just before serving, and
a table-spoonful of cream would be a great
improvement.
Note. - A stalk of rhubarb, or a few green
gooseberries, may bo used instead of the apple.
{Fr. Sauce au Diable)
Ingredients -
J pint Brown Stock.
i oz. Butter.
i oz. Jblour.
i tea-sp. Bed-currant Jelly.
1 tea-spoonful Chili Vinegar.
Method. - Melt the butter in a stewpan and
brown it slightly. Add the flour, and niix until
smooth. Then draw the stewpan to the side of
the fire and pour in the stock, stir again over the
fire until boiling, when the other ingredients may
be added. (The mustard should be mixed into
a smooth paste with the Worcester sauce.)
Cook all slowly from ten to fifteen minutes, and
strain before using. Add salt if necessary.
Dutch Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Hollandaise)
Ingredients -
2 oz. Butter. i A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
1 table-spoonful Vinegar. Salt and Pepper.
2 table-spoonfuls Water. A pinch of Cayenne.
2 yolks of Eggs. 1
Method. - Put the water, vinegar, and yolks of
eggs into a saucepan, place the pan in another
saucepan of hot water, and stir over the fiire
constantly until the sauce thickens. Draw the
pan to the side of the fire, and add the butter in
small pieces, letting each piece melt before
another is added. The sauce must not boil, or
it will curdlt). Add the lemon juice, and season
to taste. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead
of plain, and is preferred by many.
Egg Sauce
{Fr. Sauce aux CEufs)
Ingredients -
5 oz. Butter. 1 hard-boiled Egg.
3 gills Milk or Fish Stock. ^^^lite Pepper.
J oz. Flour. Salt.
Method. - Make a sauce with the butter, flour,
and liquid. Chop the hard-boiled egg finely,
and add it to the sauce, with white pepper and
salt to taste. Boil two or tliree minutes longer,
and the sauce is ready.
Note. - A plainer sauce maj' be made by using
half water and half milk. Sometimes the wliito
only of the egg is used, and the yolk rubbed
tlirough a sieve, and used to decorate whatever
the sauce is poured over.
Gooseberry Sauce
{Fr. Sauce aux Groseilles)
Ingredients -
J pint Green Gooseberries.
1 gill ^^^lite Sauce.
1 dessert-spoonful Sugar.
1 oz. Butter.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
J gill of Water.
Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries, and
wash them in cold water. Put them into a stew-
144
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pan with half a gill of cold water, put the lid on
the pan, and simmer slowly for half-an-hom-, or
until the gooseberries are quite soft, then rub
tlirough a hair sieve. Put the white sauce into
a saucepan, add to it the gooseberry pulp, the
butter and seasoning, mix well together, and stir
over the fire until boiling.
NoU!. - Rhubaj-b sauce may be meule in the
same way.
1 tea-sp. Castor Sugar.
1 tea-sp. made Mustard.
Tepper and Salt
Metlwd. - \Vasli and scrape the horse-radish
until it is quite white, then grate it on a grater.
Put it into a basin with the other ingredients,
and mix well together. A little thick cream
added is a great improvement. Serve in a
sauce tureen.
Note. - K this sauce is to be served with hot
fish or meat, heat by standing the basin con-
taining it in a saucepan of hot water. Do not
boil or it will curdle.
1 tea-spoouful Lemon Juice.
Mattre d'Hotel Butter
Required -
1 oz. Butter.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley. I
Method. - Put all on to a plate, and with a
knife work them well together, to form a neat
pat. Stand the plate slightly on end, that the
lemon juice may run out of the butter again ;
and set in a cool place or on ice until wanted.
The parsley should be very green and very
finely chopped to make this butter look well.
2 yolks of Eggs.
About 1 gill Salad Oil.
1 tablesp. White Vinegar.
1 table-spoonful Tarragon
Vinegar.
White Pepper and Salt.
1 tea-sp. Chili Vinegar.
\ tea-sp. made !Mustard.
A pinch of Sugar.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - Take a basin largo enough to hold
IJ pint (the size of the basin is important), and
twist round the foot of it a cloth ^vrung out of
very cold water to keep it steady and cool while
mixing the sauce. Divide the yolks very care-
fully from the whites of the egg, and put them
into the basin with the pepper, salt, mustard,
and sugar. (The sugar may be omitted if not
liked.) Mix these well together with a wooden
spoon or small wire whisk. Cut a small wedge
fri m the cork of the salad-oil bottle, largo enough
to allow the oil to come out, drop by drop, when
it is hold up. Keep stirring the yolks all the
time with the right hand, and dropping in the
oil from the bottle with the loft, until the sauce
is so thick that it is stirred with difficulty. One
gill is about the usual quantity required for two
yolks, but there is no necessity to measure it.
Next add the vinegars gradually, and mix well.
Notes. - If this sauce is not kept cool, or the
oil mixed in too quickly, it will cvirdle. It
cannot bo made in a hurry. If it should curdle,
the fault 7nay be rem.edied by putting a fresh
yolk into another basin and adding the sauce
very slowly to it, stirring all the time. A whiter
sauce can be made by using lemon juice instead
of vinegar.
More or less vinegar may be added to the
sauce according to taste, and according to the
purpose for which it is to be used.
If used for dressing a salad, it should be
tliinned down considerably with vinegar. If
used for coating joints of meat, a little liquid
aspic is usually added to make it stiffen.
If this sauco has to be kept for several hours
before using, cover the basin containing it with
a cloth wrung out of very cold water. This will
prevent a skin forming on the top. If bottled
and kept in a cool dark place, it will bo good for
a week or longer.
Be particular to use good oil. If the taste of
the oil is not liked, two table -spoonfuls of thick
whipped cream may be stirred into the sauce
at the last, which will tone down the taste. Or
cream may bo used instead of the oil.
Melted Butter
{Fr. Beurre Fondu)
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Ingredients - •
2 oz. Fresh Butter.
Pepper and Salt. |
Method. - Put the butter into a lined sauce-
pan, and melt it gently over a slow fire. It
should not lose its creamy appearance. Add
the lemon juice and a little pepper and salt.
Serve in a hot tureen.
Mint Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Menthe)
Ingredients-
2 table-sp. finely chopped
Mint.
1 table-sp. Brown Sugar.
2 table - spoonfuls boiling
Water.
1 gill Brown Vinegar.
Method. - Put the sugar into a basin or sauce
tureen, pour over it the boiling water and stand
until dissolved. Wash the mint, which should
be young and fresh, pick it from the stalks and
chop finely. Mix all the ingredients together
and stand two or three hours before serving.
Metlwd. - Cut the button mu.№hroom in halves,
and let them boil quickly in a little water for
GUIDE TO COOKERY
145
seven or ten minutes. Then strain and put
them into half a pint Brown or Madeira sauce.
Let them continue to simmer in the sauce for ten
minutes, and add the lemon juice at the last.
Note. - If fresh mushrooms are used they
should be picked, washed, cut in small pieces,
and then stewed for a short time in brown stock
before the sauce is added to them.
White Mushroom Sauce may be made in the
same way as above, using white sauce instead of
the brown.
Mustard Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Moutarde)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter. 1 tea-sp. Chili Vinegar.
1 tea-spoonful Flour. 1 gill Water.
1 tea-spoonful dry Mustard. Salt.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small saucepan
without discolouring it, add the flour and
mustard, and mix until smooth with a wooden
spoon. Poui in the wat/cr, stir until boiling, and
cook three minutes. Add the vinegar and salt,
and serve hot.
Onion Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Soubise)
Ingredients -
i pint "White or Bechamel I White Pepper and Salt.
Sauce. A pinch of Cayenne.
3 or 4 large Onions. 1
Method. - Skin the onions, put them into a
saucepan with boiling water and a little salt,
and boil quickly for one hour, or until tender.
Then drain toell and chop them finely. Put this
onion pur6e into a saucepan with the sauce,
bring to the boil, am/! reduce if necessary.
Season to taste with white pepper, salt, and a
pinch of cayenne.
Note. - A smoother sauce may be made by
rubbing the onions through a sieve after chopp-
ing. One or two table-spoonfuls of cream are
an improvement.
Oyster Sauce
(Fr. Sauce aux Huitres)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
i pint Milk or Fish Stock.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
1 dozen Oysters and their
Liquor.
J gill Cream.
White Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayeune.
Method. - Remove the beard and gristle from
the oysters. Cut each oyster in two, and scald
them in their own liquor - ^that is, bring them to
the boil and strain. (Keep the liquor for flavour-
ing the sauce.) Put the beards and trimmincs
of the oysters into a saucepan with the milk,
and simmer for a few minutes to extract the
flavour. Tlicn strain the milk and oyster hquor
through muslin, and keep them for making the
sauce. The trimmings of the oysters may now
be thrown away. Then make a sauce with the
butter, flour, and strained liquid. Season to
taste and put in the cream, add the oysters and
lemon juice last.
Parsley Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Maitre d'Hdtel)
Ingredients -
J oz. Butter.
i oz. Flour.
} pint Fish Stock or Meat
Boilings.
Method. - Make a sauce with the butter,
flour, and liquid. Add the parsley, pepper, and
salt, and boil two or three minutes. Squeeze
in the lemon jmce just before serving.
1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.
White Pepper and Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - Chop the mushrooms, and simmer
them in the sauce for about fifteen minutes.
Then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire,
and add the yolks of eggs and parsley. Cook
for a minute or two, but do not boil again.
Shrimp Sauce
{Fr. Sauce aux Crevettes)
Ingredients-
I oz. Butter.
J oz. Flour.
i pint Milk or Fish Stock.
1 gill of picked Shrimps.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Make a sauce with the butter, flour,
and fish stock. Pick the slirimps, and add
them, with white pepper and salt to taste.
Squeeze in the lemon juice before serving.
Method. - ^Make the Mayonnaise according to
directions given for that sauce, and add to it
the above ingredients.
Tomato Sauce
{Fr. Sauce aux Tomates)
Ingredients -
} oz. Butter.
J oz. Rice Flour.
5 or 6 Tomatoes.
1 oz. lean Ham.
J pint Stock.
Pepper and Salt.
A small piece of Carrot,
Celery, Turnip, Onion.
A sprig of Thyme, Mar-
joram, and Parsley.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
1 lump of Sugar.
Method - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,
put into it the ham and vegetables cut in small
146
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pieces, and fry them a few minutes. Wipe the
tomatoes, and cut them in slices on a plate.
Add them next to the saucepan with the rice
flour, and mix well. Pour in the stock, and stir
until boiling. Season to taste ^\'ith pepper and
salt, and simmer slowly for at least half-an-hour,
stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too
thick, add more stock. Strain through a fine
strainer, hair sieve, or tammy, re-heat, and add
a squeeze of lemon juice and a lump of sugar.
Note. - Tinned tomatoes may be used instead
of fresh, and these will not require sUcing. If
the stock is well flavoured, the vegetables may
be omitted.
Velout6 Saace
(Fr. Sauce Velout^)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter. I A few drops of Lemon Juice.
J oz. Flour. White Pepper and Salt.
J pint White Stock. | A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - JIake in the same way as wliite
sauce, using the stock instead of milk.
White Sauce
Ingredients -
J oz. Butter.
i oz. Flour,
J pint Milk.
{Fr. Sauce Blanche)
White Pepper.
Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small lined
saucepan, add the flour, and mix smoothly with
a wooden spoon. Cook for a minute or two
over the fire without discolouring, then draw
the pan to the side and pour in the milk. Retiu-n
to the fire, and keep stirring constantly until
boiling. Boil for two or three minutes so as to
thoroughly cook the flour, and season to taste
with white pepper and salt. Remove the pan
from the fire before adding the lemon juice.
Note. - A plainer sauce can be made by using
half milk and half water. If required for fish,
fish stock may bo used instead of milk.
Cornflour is sometimes used instead of flour.
SWEET SAUCES
Apricot Sauce
{Fr. Sauce a rAbricot)
Ingredients -
ll gills Apricot Purie. I 1 dessert-spoonful Sugar,
i oz. Arrowroot. ' 2 or 3 drops of Carmine.
J gill Water.
Method. - Make the pur6o from tinned apricots
by rubbing four or five pieces through a hair
sieve and making up the quantity with the
Bvrup. Put this pur(5e into a small lined sauce-
pan, ewid to it the arrowroot broken with the
cold water, and stir over the fire until it boils
and thickens. Add the sugar, flavouring, and
enough carmine to make it a pretty pink colour.
Cook two or three minutes longer, and serve.
Brandy Sauce (1)
(Fr. Sauce au Cognac)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter. IJ gills Water,
i oz. lloor. i glass Brandy.
1 oz. Sugar.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small lined
saucepan, add the flour, and mix with a wooden
spoon until smooth. Draw the pan to one side,
and pour in the water ; then return to the fire
and stir constantly until boiling. Add the
brandy and sugar, and boil a few minutes longer.
Brandy Sauce (2)
i glass of Brandy.
1 oz. Sugar.
Ingredients -
2 yolks of Eggs.
h gill Cream.
J gill Water. |
Method. - Put all the ingredients into a basin,
and stand the basin in a saucepan of slowly
simmering water. Whisk the contents with a
fork or small wire whisk from six to eight
minutes until thick and frothy, when the sauce
will be ready. Do not boil, or it will curdle.
Chocolate Sauce
{Fr. Sauce au Chocolat)
Ingredients -
1 gill Milk.
1 oz. Chocolate.
1 tea-spoonful Sugar.
1 yolk of Egg.
4 or 5 drops of Vanilla
Essence.
Method. - ^Rinse out a small lined saucepan
with cold water, and put into it the milk and
chocolate, either grated or shred down finely
with a knife. Simmer until quite dissolved.
Mix the yolk of egg and sugar together in a
ba.sin, and pour the chocolate gradually on to
them. Retiu-n to the saucepan, and stir over
the fire until almost boiling. Remove at once,
and add the flavouring.
Custard Sauce
{Fr. Creme Cuite)
Ingredients -
2 yolks of Efrgs. 1 dessert-spoonful Sugar.
1 white of Egg. A few drops of Flavouring.
i pint of Milk.
Method. - ^Rinse out a small lined saucepan
with cold water, put the milk into it, and let it
heat over the fire. Put the yollcs and white of
egg into a beisin with the sugar, and mix them
well together with a wooden spoon. Then pour
the hot milk gradually on to them, stirring all
the time, and mix thoroughly. Return all to
the saucepan, and stir very carefully over the
fire until the sauce thickens. On no account
must it be allowed to boil, or it will curdle.
Have ready at hand a clean basin and a strainer.
As soon eis the sauce shows signs of thickening,
and it is almost boiling, remove the pan from the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
147
fire, continue stirring for a second or two, then
strain into the basin. Add flavouring to taste.
To keep the sauce warm, stand the basin con-
taining it in a saucepan of hot, not boiling water.
Note. - The sauce may be made richer by
using more yolks of eggs and no whites.
Ingredients -
2 oz. Fresh Butter.
i oz. Castor Sugar.
2 whites of Eggs.
Hard Sauce
A few drops of Vanilla or
1 dessert-spoonful Brandy,
Sherry, or Liqueur.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
2 or 3 drops of Carmine.
Method. - Warm the butter very slightly in a
basin, but be careful not to oil it. Sieve the
sugar over it, and beat these two together with
a wooden spoon until they are -vevy white and
light. Then add the whites of egg whipped to
a stiff froth, and beat again for a few minutes.
Flavour to taste, and set the sauce in a cool
place or on ice to harden. Serve as cold as
possible.
Jam Sauce
{Fr. Sauce au Confiture)
Ingredients -
2 table-spoonfuls Red Jam.
1 gill of Water.
1 oz. Loaf Sugar.
Method. - Put the water, sugar, and jam into a
small lined saucepan, and let them boil quickly
for a few minutes, skimming if necessary. Add
the lemon juice and two or three drops of carmine.
Strain before using.
Note. - Raspberry or strawberry jam is to be
preferred for making this sauce.
A little wine may be udded.
Lemon Sauce
{Fr. Sauce Citron)
Ingredients -
i oz. Arrowroot IJ gills Water.
Bind and juice of i Lemon. J oz. Butter.
1 oz. Sugar.
Method. - Wipe the lemon with a damp cloth
and grate off half the rind on to the top of the
sugar. Grate very lightly, being most particular
not to take any of the white, as it is bitter.
Work the lemon rind and sugar together until
they are well blended. Break the arrowroot
with a little of the water, then add the rest of the
water, and pour into a saucepan. Stir over the
fire until boiling, add the lemon sugar, and the
lemon juice strained, and cook for a few minutes.
Break the buttc in small pieces, and put it in
just before serving.
Orange Sauce
{Fr. Sauce a 1' Orange)
Ingredients -
J oz. Arrowroot I Juice of 1 Orange.
1 oz. Sugar. J 2 table-spoonfuls Water.
Method. - Squeeze and strain the orange juice
into a saucepan. Break the arrowroot with the
water, and add it to the orange juice. Stir these
over the fire until boihng, then boil for a few
minutes and add the sugar. If too thick, a
little more orange juice may be added. Strain
before using.
Pineapple Sauce
{Fr. Sauce a I'Ananeis)
Ingredients -
J gill Pineapple Syrup.
2 oz. Pineapple.
I oz. Sugar.
A few drops of Carmine.
Method. - Strain the pineapple syrup into a
small saucepan, and add all the other ingredients.
Boil for a, few minutes, and remove any scum
that rises.
Sweet White Sauce
Ingredients -
2 table-spoonfuls Water or
Wine.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
1 dessert-spoonful of Sugar.
A little Flavouring.
1 oz. Butter,
i oz. Flour.
i pint Milk.
Method. - ^Make in the same way as white
sauce (p. 146), adding sugar instead of pepper
and salt.
Wine Sauce
Make in the same way as Brandy Sauce, using
one wine-glassful of sherry instead of brandy.
VEGETABLES AND SALADS
General Notes on Vegetables
To havi vegetables in perfection they should
be cooked very soon after they are taken from
the gi-ound. If freshly gathered out of the
garden they should be washed just before they
are cooked, but when bought in the shops, it
is often necessary to soak them in water for
some time that they may regain some of their
original freshness.
To secure a good colour and flavour in vege-
tables when cooked, careful dressing and pre-
paration beforehand are essential. Earthy
roots, such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, "&c.,
must be both well scrubbed and thoroughly
rinsed in cold water before peeling.
All vegetables, such as cauliflower, cabbage,
sprouts, &c., which may contain slugs, must
be soaked in cold water with vinegar in it for
some time before cooking.
148
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Coarse or discoloured leaves and any daxk
or decayed spots should be removed from all
vegetables before cooking.
Throw aU vegetables as they are prepared
into cold water.
To Prepare Vegetables
A Carrot. - Wash in cold water, brushing well
with a vegetable brush. Then cut oS the top
and any green part, and with a knife scrape
the outside lightly until the carrot is quite clean.
Scrape from the thick end downwards, and do
not take off any more than is necessary, as the
best part of the carrot lies on the outside.
Throw into clean water until required.
A Turnip. - Wash in cold water and brush well
with a vegetable brush. Then with a knife
cut off the top, and peel rather thickly, as far
as a yellow line which will be seen a little way
in from the skin. The outside of the turnip
is hard, indigestible, and bitter in flavour.
Throw into clean water until wanted.
An Onion. - Cut off the root and top, and
remove all the brown outside skin. If the
strong flavour is objected to, put the onion into
a small basin with a pinch of salt, or small piece
of washing soda. Cover it with boiling water,
and let it stand for at least five minutes. The
water in which it soaks turns quite green in
colour.
Note. - The preparation of other vegetables
will be described under their special headings.
The Cooking and Serving of Vegetables
As a rule the ordinary cook pays far too little
attention to this branch of cookery, although,
thanks to the growing popularity of vegetari-
anism, more efficiency in this department of the
culinary art is now demanded.
Vegetables boiled in water {cuit & I'eau), as
often as not without salt, and served, or rather
tmnbled, into a vegetable dish without further
attention would be looked down upon with
Bcom by the French housewife and reg8U"ded as
something almost savage.
Take, for example, the potato, which is one of
our most useful vegetables and without which
no dinner is thought to be complete- why is it
that in nine cases out of ten it is the boiled
potato wo see ? Simply because our cooks do
not exercise a little ingenuity and seldom care
to bestow a little extra trouble on so simple a
dish. In fact the throwing away of cold cooked
potatoes is one of the commonest forms of waste
in the kitchens both of the rich and of the poor ;
and yet the variety of wa5's in which a potato
can be cooked and a cold one re-cooked are
almost legion.
The cooking of vegetables requires as much
care as the cooking of moat or the turning out
of a pudding, and the simplicity of the opera-
tion should not be an excuse for slovenliness;
a vegetable must be taistefully seasoned, well
served, and temptingly arranged, with an eye
to colour. Those little attentions will give a
special air of finish to the simplest cuisine, and
a well-prepared vegetable, instead of forming a
mere adjunct to another dish, can often be served
Bs a separate course, thus saving a joint or
avoiding the necessity for another meat dish.
Steaming of Vegetables
This is one of the best and most successful
ways of cooking vegetables. The old-fashioned
method of boiling them in a quantity of water
and then throwing that water
away h£is much to condemn it,
as so many of the valuable
properties are lost in the water.
A steam cooker is a most
valuable addition to any kitchen
- there are several different
makes, and the prices range
from 5s. upwards, according to
the number of steamers. Tliey
axe particularly viseful and
economical on a gas stove,
where one light will serve to
cook meat, fish, one or two
vegetables, and a pudding if
necessary. The time for steam-
ing will depend upon the kind
of vegetable and also upon
its freshness. Full instructions
for use are generally given with
each kind of steamer. See also under separate
recipes.
Hatchings' Patent
Cooker.
Vegetables Cooked "En Casserole"
This is another excellent method for cooking
the lighter vegetables, and various recipes are
Fireproof Pot.
given to show how a vegetable may be both
cooked and served up in this clean and useful
fireproof cooking-pot.
Vegetarianism
It is impossible to deal with vegetarianism
fully in a book of this kind. The subject is
one which opens out so many important ques-
tions that it would require a book itself in order
GUIDE TO COOKERY
149
to do it justice. Suffice it to say, however, that
it does not do to give up a meat diet suddenly
and live on vegetables such as one finds in
the ordinary English cuisine. There must be
something to take the place of meat if the body
is to be built up as it ought to be, and any one
wishing to follow this regime could not do
better than write to some speciahst such as
Eustace IMiles, Chandos Street, London, who will
supply pamphlets and give all particulars about
a non-meat diet, or to the Reform Food Co.,
4 Furnival Street, Holbom, London, who will
also give valuable information about a special
vegetai'ian diet.
Globe Artichokes (to Boil)
{Fr. Artichauts au Natural)
Cut the stem off even with the leaves, remove
the haxdest bottom leaves, and cut about an inch
off the others at the top, thus making an open-
ing in the centre of the artichoke. Wash the
artichokes thoroughly, and soak them in cold
water \rith a few drops of \anegar in it for
half -an -hour, to draw out any insects. Lift
them out, rinse in cold water, and place upside
down in a colander or sieve to drain. Have
ready on the fire a deep saucepan tliree psirts
full of boiling water salted in the proportion of
one dessert-spoonful of salt to one quart of water.
Put the artichokes into this, and boil quickly
for half-an-hour or longer. To ascertain when
they are ready, pierce with a skewer or triissing
needle, which should enter easily, or try if the
leaves can easily be removed. Drain well, cut
them in halves or quarters with a sharp knife,
remove the hard inside or " choke " with a
spoon, and dish on a folded napkin.
Different sauces may be served separately,
ti^ dish taking its name from the sauce, thus : -
Served '*h -
French
llelted Butter- Artichauts au Beurre.
Bechamel Sauce- Artichauts a la Bechamel.
Dutch Sauce- Artichauts i la HoUandaise.
Or cold with Oil and Vinegar- Artichauts a. I'Huile.
Note. - Only the bottom of the artichoke and
base of the leaves are eatable.
Jerusalem Artichokes with White Sauce
{Fr. Topinambours h la Sauce Blanche)
Ingredients -
1 to li lbs. Jerusalem Arti- i J pint White Sauce,
chokes. I
Methol. - First wash and brush the artichokes
thoroughly, and tlirow them into clean cold
water. Then peel them carefully with a small
knife, and as each one is done, tlirow it into
another basin of fresh cold water with a few
drops of vinegar or bmon juice to preserve the
colour. Do not allow the water in which the
artichokes are being pooled to become too dirty ;
change it if necessary. Have ready on the
fire a Uned or earthenwaie saucepan with just
sufficient boihng water to cover the artichokes,
and salted in the proportion of one tea-spoonful
to one pint of water. Drain the artichokes and
throw them into this, and cook them gently
with the Ud on the saucepan from fifteen to
twenty minutes, or until they can be pierced
fairly easily with a skewer. Or put them into
a double cooker and steam them for half-an-
hour. Strain off the water, pour in the white
sauce, and finish the cooking over a slow fire.
A Httle finely-chopped parsley may be added
at the last, or one or more tablespoonfuls of
grated Parmesan.
Note. - They can also be served with brown,
tomato, or HoUandaise sauce.
Asparagus
(Fr. Asperges)
Choose the asparagus with fresh purple points
and wliite stalks. If the cut end is brown and
dry and the heads droop, the asparagus is stale.
It may be kept for a day or two by standing the
stalks in a jug of cold water, but is better used
fresh. Cut the asparagus aU one length, scrape
the white part hghtly with a knife, and wash
in cold water. Tie with tape into bundles of
eight or ten, keeping the heads all one way.
Asparagus Cooker.
and cook in a steamer over boihng salted water
until the vegetable is tender, from thirty to forty
nrunutes. Or what is better still, cook it in an
asparagus cooker •nliich has an arrangement
whereby the stalks only are in the water wliile
the points are cooked by steam. When eis-
paragus is done, which is ascertained by press-
ing the points with the fingers, it should be
taken up at once, else it will become flabby and
spongy. Drain well and send it to table on a
folded napkin or in an asptiragus dish.
Asparagus may be served witli many different
sauces.
Served with - Frcixch
Melted or oiled Butter- Asperges au Beurre.
White Sauce - Asperges a la Sauce Blanche.
Dutch Sauce- Asperges Ji la HoUandaise.
Or cold with Oil and Vinegar- Asperges ii I'HuUe.
150
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Beetroot (to Boll)
{Fr. Botteravos au Naturel)
Required -
Beetroots. I Salt.
Boiling Water. I
Method. - Wash tho beetroots very gently and
carefully. On no account must the skin be
broken, or tho juice will run out, and the colour
of the beetroots be spoilt. Put them into a
saucepan of boiling water large enough to hold
them without breaking. Add salt in the pro-
portion of one dessert-spoonful to one quart,
and boil gently with the lid on the pan. Tliey
will take from two to three hours to cook, accord-
ing to age and size. To test them, hft them
out of the water, and press them with the finger ;
they should feel rather soft. Never pierce a
beetroot with a fork. When ready, drain, and
put them on a plate. If to be served hot, peel
them quickly, cut in thin slices, and arrange
these in a hot vegetable dish, and pour white
or any other suitable sauce over. Small beet-
roots may be served whole.
Broad or Windsor Beans (to Boil)
(Fr. Feves)
Beans to be nice must be young and freshly
gathered. They should not be shelled until
about to be cooked. After shelling, wash and
drain them. If old, the skins should also be
removed before cooking. To do this, put the
beans into a basin with boiUng water to cover
them, stand for a few minutes, then drain, and
remove the skins. Throw into a saucepan of
fast-boiling water, salted in the proportion of
one dessert-spoonful to a quart, and boil rapidly
until tender. They will take from fifteen
minutes to half-an-hour, according to age and
size. Any scum rising on the water must be
removed. When ready, drain in a colander,
return the beans to the pan with a small piece
of butter, season with pepper and salt, and shake
over the fire for a few minutes. Beans are
frequently served as an accompaniment to
boiled bacon, but should always be cooked
separately.
Broad Beans k la Poulette
(Fr. Feves a la Poulette)
Ingredients -
1 pint Shelled Beans.
1 gill White Stock.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of .Sugar.
i oz. Butter.
Method. - Prepare tho beans (removing the
skins), boil until tender and drain well in a
colander. Melt tho butter in a small stowpan,
add the flour, and stir over the fire for two
or three minutes ; then povir in the stock.
J oz. Flour.
1 gill of Cream.
1 yolk of EKg.
\ tea-spoonful Mixed Herbs.
and stir until boiling. Put in the beans,
season with pepper, salt, and tho herbs very
finely powdered. Simmer five or ten minutes,
then draw the pan to the side of tho fire ; add
the yolk of egg and cream, stir and make
thoroughly hot, but do not boil again. Sorvљ
at once in a hot vegetable dish.
Brussels Sprouts
(Fr. Choux de Biuxelleb au Bourre)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Brussels Sprouts.
Boiling Water.
Pepper and Salt
1 oz. Butter.
Method. - Wash the Brussels sprouts carefully,
and trim them, cutting away any outside dis-
coloured leaves. Make a sUt across the stalk
of each to allow them to cook more easily,
and as they axe prepared, throw them into a
basin of clean cold water with one tea-spoonful
of vinegar added, to draw out any insects.
Let them soak in this from twenty to thirty
minutes, then rinse and drain in a colander.
Cook them in a perforated steamer (see p. 148)
until quite tender, about half-an-hoiu*. Test
them by trying if they can easily be pierced
with a fork, and do not overcook them. When
ready, drain well. Melt the butter in the pan,
toss the sprouts in this, sprinkling them with
pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Sometimes
a little cream is added.
Carrots ^ la Flamande
(Fr. Garottes a la Flamande)
Ingredients -
J gill Cream.
1 yolk of Egg.
\ tea-spoonful
Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
chopped
6 or 8 young Carrots.
Boiling Water.
Salt.
i gill Water.
2 oz. Butter.
Method. - Wash and scrape the carrots very
lightly, cutting off the green tops. Put them
into an earthenware casserole with boiling water
to cover them and salted in the proport-'on of
one dessert-spoonful to one quart ; boil ten
minutes, and strain. Then cut the carrots into
thin slices, and return them to the casserole
with the butter, half gill of water, pepper, and
salt. Put on the Ud, and simmer for twenty
minutes. When the carrots are tender, add the
yolk of egg and cream, beaten together, and
the chopped parsley ; stir carefully over the
fire until thick, but do not boil. Serve hot
en casserole.
Cabbages with Butter
(Fr. Choux au Bourre)
Take one or two young cabbages and trim
them carefully, removing the outside leaves and
any discoloured parts. Cut in three or four
pieces according to size and wash in plenty of
cold water. Then soak in cold water with a
GUIDE TO COOKERY
151
few drops of vinegar to draw out any slugs,
and rinse again in fresh cold water. Place the
prepared cabbage in a steamer, sprinkle with
salt and st"am from three-quarters to one hour,
or until tender. Score across with a knife and
serve in a hot dish with a good pat of salt butter
on the top.
Cauliflower with White Sauce
(Fr. Choufleur a la Sauce Blanche)
Required -
1 Cauliflower. I Salt.
Boiling Water. I White Sauce.
Method. - Select a fresh cauliflower with firm,
close head. Trim off the thick part of the stalk,
and nearly all the leaves, only leaving on a
few of the smaller ones to protect the flower.
Make a cut across the stalk in both directions
so that it may cook more easily. Wash the
cauliflower in plentj' of cold water, and then
let it lie ioi half-pn-hour in fresh cold water,
to which one tea-spoonful of vinegar has been
added, to draw out any insects. Cook it in a
steamer until the flower feels tender but not
broken from thirty to forty minutes. When
ready, lift it out, drain for a minute or two,
and serve in a hot vegetable dish with white or
any other suitable sauce poured over it.
Cauliflower with Cheese
{Fr. Choufleur au Fromage)
Ingredients -
1 Cauliflower. I 1 gill of Water.
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - Prepare and cook the cauliflower
as above, drain and break it up into small,
neat pieces. jNIake a sauce with the butter,
flour and water, adding the cream, seasoning
and rather more than half the cheese. Butter
a fireproof fancy dish, and arrange in it the
cauliflower and sauce in alternate layers.
Sprinkle the remainder of the cheese over the
top, pour a little melted butter over and place
the dish in the oven to brown.
Note. - The remains of cold cooked cauliflower
may be used up in this way.
Chestnuts
{Fr. MjuTons)
These may be prepared in different ways and
make a good winter vegetable. Wash the nuts
and make a slit in the skin at the stalk end.
Put them into boiling salted water and cook
them until tender from twenty to thirty minutes.
Then drain, remove the skins, and serve them
quickly with a little melted butter, salt, and
wliite pepper. Or they may be served in a
good brown or tomato sauce.
A Chestnut Pur6e too is very good as an
2 table-spoonfiils Cream.
2 oz. grated Parmesan
Cheese.
accompaniment to roast fowl or beef. Cook
the nuts as above and rub them through a sieve.
Re-heat with a Uttle butter, seasoning, and
enough brown sauce to bind all together and
make the mixture of a right consistency.
Celery with Cream (to Stew)
(Fr. Celeri a la Creme)
Required -
1 head of Celery.
i pint "White Stock
Broth.
Pepper and Salt.
i gill Cream.
i oz. Butter.
i oz. Flour.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
Method. - Wash the celery and cut it in con-
venient-sized pieces. Put the stock or broth
into a saucepan, and when hot put in the celery
and parboil it. Then strain, and naake a sauce
with the butter, flour, and stock. Add the
cream, season to taste. Retiirn the celery to
the saucepan and allow it to simmer slowly
in the sauce until it is quite tender. A few
sippits of toast or a little chopped parsley may
be used as a garnish. Or the celery may be
cooked and served en casserole.
Required -
Celery.
A little Flour.
Celery (to Fry)
{Fr. Celeri Frit)
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
Frying Fat.
Method. - Prepare the celery, cut it in short
lengths, ard cook in salted water until fairly
tender. Drain it well, and spread the pieces
out on a cloth to dry. Dip the pieces first into
a little flour, coating them hghtly ; then egg
and bread-crumb them and fry in boiling fat
until a nice brown colour, and drain well on
kitchen paper. Dish them up, cross bars, on
a hot dish, with a d'oyley or dish paper under
them, sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan,
and garnish with parsley.
Note. - Frjnng batter may be used instead of
egg and bread-crumbs.
Cucumber
(Fr. Concombre)
Cook in the same way as vegetable marrow
(see p. 159).
Ingredients-
Curried Vegetables
{Fr. Legumes en Caii)
Curry Sauce (see p. 143).
Any kind of cooked Vegetable.
Boiled Rice.
Method. - Any cooked vegetable may be used
for a curry, such as turnip, carrot, cauliflower,
vegetable marrow, beans, &c., or a mixture of
vegetables. If large, cut them in smedl neat
pieces. Make the curry sauce rather thick.
When made, put the cooked vegetables into it.
152
THE wo]sl\:n's book
and let them simmer for a few minutes, so sa
to get thoroughly heated and flavoured with
the sauce. Serve on a hot dish with a border
of boiled rice (see p. 157) round, or the rice may
be served in a separate dish.
Method. - Cut the egg-plant in sUces about a
quarter of an inch thick. Peel the slices, and
let them soak in strong salt and water, propor-
tion one table-spoonful to one pint, for two hours
to remove the bitterness. Drain and wipe each
slice dry in a towel. Egg and bread-crumb the
slices, and fry in boiling fat luitil nicely browned.
Drain on kitchen paper, and serve piled up on a
hot dish with a d'oyley or dish paper under
them. Garnish with parsley.
Note. - Egg-plants should be fresh and glossy
looking when piu-chased, or the cooking of them
■will not be successful.
They may also be split and baked simply
with a little butter,
Mushrooms,
Pepper and Salt.
Some beaten Egg.
A little grated Lemon Rind,
Method. - Wipe the egg-plants, and cut them
in half lengthways. Scoop out the meat,
leaving the rind about half an inch thick, that
the shape may be firm. Melt the butter in a
small saucepan, add the chopped onion, and
cook a few minutes. Then add the bread-
crumbs, ham or tongue, mushrooms, parsley,
and the pulp from egg-plants chopped finely.
Season with popper, salt, and a little grated
lemon rind, and add sufficient beaten egg to
bind all together. Sprinkle the inside of the
egg-plants with broad-crumbs, popper and salt,
and fill up with the mixture. Spread a few
more crumbs on the surface of the mixture, and
place the pieces on a greased tin or saut6 pan.
Cover with greased paper, and bake in a moderate
oven for one hour. Serve hot on a folded
d'oyley.
Endive (Dressed)
{Fr. Chicoree)
Required -
2 or 3 Endives.
Boiling ^yate^.
Salt
1 oz. Butter.
1 table-spoonful Cream.
Lemon Juice.
Pepper and Salt
Method. - Wash the endives carefully, sepa-
rating the leaves and removing any decayed
parts. Let them soak for half-an-hour in clean
cold water, to which one tea-spoonful of vinegar
has been added to draw out any insects. Then
drain and steam according to directions given
on p. 150, until the loaves feel quitљ tender,
from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. Next
chop the endives finely, or rub through a wire
sieve ; the latter mode is preferable. JIake hot
again in the pan with the butter and cream,
and season to taste with pepper, salt, and a
squeeze of lemon juice. Dish in the shape of
a pyramid in a hot vegetable dish, scoring up
the sides with a fork, and decorate with sippets
of toast or slices of hard-boiled egg.
Note. - Lettuce may be cooked in the sajne
way.
Flageolets
Wash the flageolets, and let them soak in cold
water overnight. Next day drain, and put
them in a saucepan with fresh cold water, and
boil slowly until tender (about two hours).
Then serve in the same way as green peas
(see p. 153),
Note. - ^They are good also as a puree made in
the same way as puree of green peas.
Freoch Beans
{Fr. Haricots Verts au Naturel)
Choose young fresh beans ; when old they
are tough and stringy when cooked. First wash
them well in cold water, then cut off the heads
and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the
bean to remove the strings. Lay several
together, and cut them into thin strips length-
ways or across in a slanting direction into
lozenge -shaped pieces. As they are cut drop
them into cold water, with a small quantity
of salt in it. Have ready on the fire a saucepan
of boiling water, salted in the proportion of one
dessert-spoonful to one quart ; drain the beans
well, and tlirow them into this. Boil quickly
from twenty to thirty minutes with the lid off
the saucepan, removing any scum as it rises.
When the beans are ready they will sink to
the bottom of the pan, and must be taken off
the fire at once. Drain well in a colander,
return them to the pan, and shako over the
fire to dry up the moisture from the beans ;
add a small piece of butter, popper and salt,
and keep moving the pan until the butter is
melted, and the beans thoroughly hot. Do not
stir the beans with a spoon, as it is apt to break
them. Serve them up as quickly as possible.
Very young beans are sometimes cooked whole.
Scarlet runners may be cooked in the same way.
Sometimes a little lemon juice and some
finely chopped parsley are added to the beans ;
they are then called French Beans a la MaJtre
d'Hotel {Fr. Haricots Verts a la Maltre d'Hotel).
GUIDE TO COOKERY
153
Green Peas
(Fr. Petits Pois au Naturel)
Required -
J peck Peas.
1 oz. Butter.
1 or 2 sprigs of Mint.
White Pepper and Salt.
1 tea-spoonful Demerara
Sugar.
Method. - Shell the peas a very short time
before they are to be cooked, otherwise they
become hard. Wash them in cold water and
drain well. Put them into a lined or earthen-
ware saucepan with just sufficient boiling water
to cover them, add the mint, salt, and sugar,
and simmer slowly with the lid off the saucepan
until the peas are nearly tender, from twenty
to thirty minutes. Add the butter, sprinkle
with pepper, and allow them to finish cooking,
shaking the pan occasionally. Lift out the
mint and serve the peas very hot. A little
chopped parsley may be added.
Green Peas with Lettuces
{Fr. Petits pois aux Laitues)
Cook the peas as above, adding one or two
young lettuces cut in shreds. If desired a
thickening maj be added made of two yolks of
eggs beaten up with two table -spoonfuls of
milk or cream. The mixture should not boil
after these are added, but must be gently stirred
to cook the eggs.
Green Pea Pur^e
{Fr. Puree de Petits Pois)
When the peas become too old for serving
whole, they can very well be made into a pur^e.
Boil them in salted water until tender, then
drain and pass them through a sieve. Return
them to the saucepan with a good piece of butter
and enough hot milk or cream to moisten.
Add seasoning and a very little sugar. This
may either be served separately along with meat,
or kept fairly tliick and pressed through a
forcing bag as a garnish for the centre of an
entree or as a fancy border.
Note. - Dried green peas may be used, but
they require soaking and long boiling to make
them tender.
Haricot Beans ^ la Maitre d'Hotel
{Fr. Haricots Blancs a la Maitre d'Hotel)
Ingredients -
J lb. Haricot Beans. I i oz. Butter.
1 small Onion. 1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Cold Water. 1 White Pepper and Salt
Metltod. - Wash the haricot beans, and let
them soak in cold water overnight to soften
them. Next day put them into a saucepan
with plenty of cold water, and the onion skinned
and cut in foiu-. Let them boil from two to
two and a half hours, or until they feel qmte
soft. The time will vary according to the age
and size of the beans used. If the water boils
away while they are cooking, add more cold
water. Keep the lid on the pan, and let the
water boil steadily all the time. When ready,
drain in a colander, and lift out the pieces of
onion. Return the beans to the pan, and let
them stand by the side of the fire with the lid
partially off, to allow them to dry ; then add
the butter, parsley, pepper, and salt. Shake
the beans over the fire for a minute or two, and
serve them hot. Do not stir with a spoon, as
it is apt to break them. A squeeze of lemon
juice is sometimes added, or they may be served
with parsley sauce poured over them.
Note. - The water in which the beans have
been cooked should be reserved for making a
sauce or put into the stock-pot.
Haricot Bean Rissoles
Ingredients -
1 lb. cooked Haricot Beans.
1 oz. Dripping.
1 Onion.
1 oz. Butter.
lEgg.
A little Flour.
Pepper and Salt.
Bread-crumbs.
Method. - ^Rub the beans through a wire sieve,
and add to them the butter, seasoning, and
enough beaten egg to bind all together. Allow
the mixture to cool, then form it into balls with
the aid of a little flour. Egg and bread-crumb
these, and fry them in boiling fat to a nice brown
colour. Drain on kitchen paper, and serve the
fritters hot garnished with parsley.
Required -
\ lb. Crones.
1 oz. Butter.
Japanese Crones
{Fr. Crones Japonaises)
1 table-spoonful Cream.
Salt and Pepper.
Method. - ^This is a vegetable wliich has not
yet become very popular, but it is very light,
and well worth eating. Crones have a slight
resemblance to Jerusalem artichokes, only they
are very much smaller. Trim the ends of the
crones, and wash and brush them well in cold
water. Warm the butter in an earthenware
saucepan, put in the crones, and cook them
in the oven from twenty to thirty minutes,
shaking them from time to time. Add the
cream and seasoning a few minutes before
serving.
Note. - ^They must not be overcooked or the
flavour will be spoilt.
A good whitљ sauce with cream may be added
at the last, or the crones may be served in small
scallop shells with the sauce over and a little
grated Parmesan on the top.
Stewed Leeks
{Fr. Poireaux au Jus)
I Some light Stock.
I Pepper and Salt
Required -
6 Leeks.
J oz. Butter.
Method. - Trim off the root, the green ends,
and the outer leaves of the leeks. Split them
154
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
down the middle, wasli thorougUy, and lot them
lie in cold water with a little vinegar for half-
an-hour. Then drain, cut in convenient-sized
pieces, and wash again in fresh cold water.
Put the looks into a Uned or earthenware sauce-
pan with enough stock to cover thorn, and stew
slowly until they are quitљ tender, from thirty
to forty minutes. Allow the stock to reduce
until there is just sufficient to serve as gravy.
Seeison \^4th salt and pepper, and add a small
piece of butter just before serving.
Lentils k la Bretonne
{Fr. Lentilles a la Bretonne)
Ingredients -
li tea-cupfuls of Lentils. 3 t"a-cupfuls of Cold Water.
2 ox. Ilam Fat. 1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Pepper and Salt, 1 Shallot (finely chopped).
Method. - Wash the lentils in several waters.
Put them into a basin with three cupfuls of cold
water. Cover over and soak all night. Next
day put them into a saucepan with the water
in which they have been soaked, the ham fat
(cooked or uncooked) cut in very small pieces,
the shalot, a pinch of pepper, and a very little
salt. Simmer slowly for two hours until you
have a smooth thick puree. It will be necessary
to stir from time to time, and if the mixture
becomes too dry, to add more water. Add the
parsley at the last, and serve very hot.
Macaroni and Walnut Scallops
Ingredients -
2 oz. MacaronL
3 oz. shelled Walnuts.
1 tea-sp. Chopped I'arsley.
Bread-crumbs.
I 1 oz. Butter.
1 table-siwonful Brown or
Tomato Sauce.
1 Salt and Pepper.
Method. - Cook the macaroni and cut it into
half'inch lengths. Roast the walnuts for a few
minutes and chop them
moderately fine. Mix these
two together with the sauce,
parsley, and seasoning.
Then grease out a few scallop
shells and sprinkle thom with
bread-crumbs. Fill them with
the mixture, sprinkle with
more bread-crumbs, and put
the butter in small pieces on the top.
Scallop SheU.
Mushrooms (to Stew)
{Ft. Champignons au Jus)
Ingredients -
) lb. ifushrooms.
i oz. Butter.
1 gill of Stock.
1 tea-spoonful Flour.
1 table-spoonful Cream.
Pepper and Salt.
A slice of Toast.
Lemon Juice.
cloth. If small, they may be left whole ; but
if large, cut in pieces, it will make a neater
dish. Put them into an eaxthenwaro casserole,
and sprinkle with pepper, salt, and a good
squeeze of lemon juice. Put the lid on the pan,
and stew very slowly for ten minutes. Add the
stock very gradually to the flour in a basin,
mixing with a spoon until quite smooth ; poiu*
tliis in beside the ntiuslu-ooms, and stir until
boiling. Stew ten or fifteen minutes longer,
add the cream at the last, and serve very hot.
Mushrooms (Stuffed)
(Fr. Champignons Farcis)
Ingredients -
6 or 8 medium-sized Mushrooms.
6 or 8 crotitons of Fried or Toasted Bread.
Stuffing -
J oz. Butter.
1 tea-sp. chopped Onion.
Trimmings of Mushrooms.
Pepper and Salt.
1 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
1 table-sp. Stock or Gravy.
1 dessert-spoonful chopped
Ham or Tongue.
Method. - Peel the mushrooms, and cut off
the ends of the stalks. Wash them in cold
water with a little salt in it, and then dry in a
Meilwd. - Peel the mushrooms and cut off the
stalks. Throw them into a basin of cold water
and salt, and let them soak a few minutes.
Then remove and dry them. Trim them all onљ
size, keeping these trimmings to add to the
stuffing. Place the muslirooms, with the black
side uppermost, on a greased baking-tin, and
then make the stuffing. Chop the onion, mush-
room trimmings, and ham, all very finely. Melt
the butter in a small pan, add to it the chopped
ingredients, and cook for a few minutes. Tlien
add the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and stock,
and cook a few minutes longer. Put a little of
this stuffing into each mushroom, cover them
over with greased paper, and bake in a moderjitљ
oven for ten minutes. Put a dish paper on to
a hot dish, arrange the fried croutons of bread
on this, and then stand a musliroom on the top
of each. Garnish with parsley, and servo as a
vegetable entremet or savoury.
Nuts and Nut Foods
Nuts of various kinds are now becoming quite
a popular food, and instead of being used as a
mere adjunct to our dessert course they can be
made to take an important part in otir diet.
They are among the most nourishing of our
vegetable foods, and potatoes and nuts are said
to have boon the principal diet of the monks in
many of the old monasteries.
Nuts are frequently found difficult of digestion,
but this is partly owing to their being taken at
the end of an already substantial meal, or be-
cause they have not been properly prepared nor
masticated.
Tlicy form a very good substitute for meat for
those who choose to adopt a non-flesh diet, as
they contain a large amount of proteid matter
which is valuable for building up the tissues and
GUIDE TO COOKERY
155
enriching the blood. They are also rich in oil,
which supplies us with heat for the body.
Tliere are quite a variety of nuts now on the
market, both shelled and unshellod, such as the
hazel, cashew, Brazil, peanut, walnut, almond,
pignolia, chestnut, filbert, &c. Rlixed nuts are
also sold for about Is. 2d. the pound.
There are also various nut foods to be had
from the different nut food specialists, along with
special recipes for their use.and several kinds of
nut butter, which form very good frying media.
For those who go in for nut cookery to any
extent, a nut mill will be found invaluable. The
price of this little machine is from about Is. 6d.
upwards, and if the nuts are first slightly roasted
and then ground they are more likely to have a
good flavour than those bought in the ground
form.
Nut Omelet
Ingredients -
3 Eggs. I A pinch of Nutmeg.
J lb. shelled Brazil Nuts. ' Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Make in the same way as savoury
omelet (see p. 186), adding the nuts finely grated
to the eggs. When the omelet is cooked, sprinkle
a few ground nuts over the top and brown
slightly.
Nut and Potato Rissoles
Ingredients -
i lb. Cooked Potatoes,
i lb. Mixed Nuts.
■1 oz. Butter.
Pepper and Salt.
2 table-spoonfuls Milk or
■^Vhite Sauce.
1 table-sp. grated Parmesan.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
A little Flour.
Method. - Roast the nuts slightly and put them
through the mill. Meli the butter in a small
saucepan, sieve the potatoes and add them to
it with the prepared nuts, milk, and seasoning.
Mix thoroughly, and turn on to a plate to cool.
Form into balls with the help of a little flour ;
egg and bread-crumb and fry in boiling fat. (See
Potato Balls, p. 156.)
Onions " en Casserole "
(Fr. Oignions en Casserole)
Required -
3 Spanish Onions. I Pepper and Salt.
IJ oz. Ihitter or good Beef A pinch of Nutmeg.
Dripping. I
Method. - Skin and scald the onions. Then
remove some of the outer part, mince this rather
finely, and place it in the casserole with the fat
and seasoning. When hot place in the whole
onions, put on the lid, and cook slowly from
one and a half to two hours until tender.
Method. - Wash the parsley and pick it, leaving
the stalks about an inch long. Lot it lie between
the folds of a cloth until dry, and then put it
into a wire frjdng basket. Have ready on the
fire a saucepan of deep fat or oil (see French
Frying, p. 131), deep enough to cover the
parsley. Plunge the parsley into this for a
second or two, and Uft it out. The moisture in
the parsley will make the fat bubble up, and if
kept in too long will make the fat come over the
sides of the pan. When the fat becomes quite
still, plunge the parsley in again for a second or
two, and it will be ready. It ought to be quite
green and crisp. Turn on to kitchen paper and
drain well.
Note. - ^This is used as a garnish for frierl
dishes, such as fried fish, rissoles, croquettes, &c.
Pease Pudding
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Sugar.
Ingredients -
i lb. Split Peas.
1 oz. Butter.
1 Egg. 1
Method. - Wash the peas well, remove any
discoloured ones, and soak overnight in cold
water. Tie them loosely in a cloth, lea\dng
room for them to swell, and put them into a
saucepan with a good pinch of salt and enough
boiling water to cover them. Boil quickly
from two to two and a haK hoiirs, or until the
peas are quite soft. Keep them well covered
with water all the time. When ready, take
them up and drain. Tiirn the peas out of the
cloth, and rub them through a wire sieve or
colander. Add the butter, egg, well beaten,
pepper, salt, and a pinch of sugar. Beat all well
together for a few minutes until the ingredients
are thorouglily mixed, then tie up tightly in
a floured cloth. Boil the pudding for another
half-hour, turn on to a hot dish, and serve as
an accompaniment to salt beef or pork.
Potatoes (to Steam)
Required -
Potatoes. I Salt.
Boiling Water. |
Method. - Steaming is one of the simplest and
best ways of cooking potatoes. First wash and
brush the potatoes well in cold water, to get rid
of all the earth, and tlirow them into a basin of
clean cold water, ready for peeling. With a
potato-knife peel them as thinly as possible, and
with the point of the knife remove all the " eyes "
or black species, and keep tlie potatoes in water
until they are wanted. Have them all of one
size. If some are larger than others, cut them
in two or tliroe to make them equal. Put them
in a steamer and sprinkle with salt. Place the
steamer on the top of a saucepan of boiling
water, and put the lid on. Keep the water in
the saucepan underneath the potatoes quickly
boiling the wb.ole time. If tlie potatoes are
steamed in their skins, peel them before they are
quite ready, and then return them to the steamer
156
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
to finish cooking. They will require from thirty
to forty minutes, according to their size and
kind. \Vlien they can be pierced easily with a
skewer, cover them •with a clean cloth, remove
the steamer from the water and stand it in
a warm place until the potatoes are dry and
mealy. Ten minutes should bo sufficient.
Mashed Potatoes
Ingredienla -
} lb. cooked Potatoes. I 2 or 3 tablc-spoonfuls Milk.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping. [ White Pepper and Salt.
Method. - The potatoes should be well cooked,
dry and floury. Rub them quickly through a
wire sieve or put them through a vegetable
pressor. Melt the butter or dripping in a sauce-
pan and add the potatoes to it. Season to taste
with white pepper and salt, and add the milk.
Mis well together and pile up in the form of a
pjTamid on a greased tin or platљ that will stand
the heat of the oven. Smooth over and mark
with a knife or fork, and brush over with milk
or beaten egg. Bake in the oven until nicely
browned, and then with a fish slice or broad knife
slip the pudding on to a hot vegetable dish.
Note, - The yolk of an egg may be added to
the mixture, or cream may be used instead of
milk.
Potato Rice
{Fr. Pommes de Terre au Neige)
This dish is made by putting freshly boiled
potatoes through a vegetable pressor or wire
sieve, and letting them fall on to a hot vegetable
dish. The potato grains resemble rice and
make a good accompaniment to stewed or
roast meat.
Potato Balls
{Fr. Croquettes de Pommes de Terre)
Ingredients -
i lb. cooked Potatoes.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
White Pepper and .Salt.
Frying Fat.
1 yolk or i a whole Egg.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
Method. - Rub the potatoes through a wire
sieve, or press them through a vegetable pressor.
Melt the butter or dripping in a saucepan, and
put the sieved potato into it. Seeison with white
pepper and salt, and add one yolk of egg or half
a whole egg well beaten (the other half may be
used for egging and bread-crumbing). Mix all
well together, and tiom the mixture on to a
plate to cool. Then flour the hands slightly and
roll the mixture into small balls of equal size and
free from cracks. Egg and broad-crumb these
ba'ls, and fry thorn until nicely browned in
boiling fat. Do not put too many into the fat
at one time, or they will cool the fat so much
that it will soak into them and cause them
to burst. After frying, drain well on kitchen
paper, and serve on a hot dish with a dish paper
under them, and garnish with parsley.
1 yolk and 2 whites of ]
Frying Fat.
Note. - ^This mixture may be made into
different shapes, such as cutlets, conos, or small
rolls. A little chopped parsley, chopped ham
or tongue, or grated cheese may bo added to
the mixture.
Potato Fritters
{Fr. Beignets de Pommes de Terre)
Ingredients -
J lb. cooked Potatoes.
1 oz. Butter.
I'epper and Salt
Method. - Prepare the potato mixture as
above, adding the whites of eggs beaten to a
stiff froth at the last and mixing them in very
lightly. Drop the mixture in pieces about the
size of a walnut into boiling fat, and fry until
nicely browned. Lift out with a perforated
spoon on to kitchen paper ; drain well, dish on
a dish paper or folded napkin, and garnish
with parsley.
Potatoes (to Fry)
{Fr. Pommes de Terre Fritos)
Required-
Potatoes. I Frying Fat or Oil.
Salt. I
Method. - Wash and peel the potatoes. Cut
them into thin slices as nearly the same size as
possible. Make them quite dry in a cloth, and
put them into a frying basket. Have ready
some deep fat and make it moderately hot, but
not boiUng. Plunge the potatoes in and cook
them at a moderate rate until tender and
slightly coloured. Then Uft them out, drain
them, and let them get partly cold. Replace
the fat on the fire, and when it steams return the
potatoes to it and shake them about until they
are crisp and nicely browned. Drain quicldy
and sprinkle with salt. These potatoes are
usually served with grilled chops or steaks.
Potato Chips and Ribbons. - Choose large,
smoothly shaped potatoes. Dry them well after
they have been washed and peeled.
For Ribbons cut the potatoes first in slices
half an inch in thickness. Then take ono slice
at a time and with a small knife peel slowly
round and round it, cutting the ribbons so thin
that you can see the knife tlurough them, and
making them as long as possible. Do not throw
them back into the water ; keep them lying on
the cloth until it is time to cook them. Some of
them may be tied into bows or knots. The
drier they are the more easily they will fry.
For Chips cut the potatoes first into thin
slices, then across into strips or chips. Cook
both these in the same way as above.
thinly (unless this is done they will not absorb
the butter). Put them into a stewpan or
earthenware dish with the stock and a little
salt if necessary. Cover with the lid and cook
in a moderate oven for twenty or thirty minutes,
or until sufficiently cooked. Strain off any
stock that may be left, add the butter and
parsley, and toss over the fire for a few minutes.
Serve very hot.
Required -
Patna Kice.
Salt.
Rice (to Boil for Curries)
Boiling Water.
Method. - Patna rice is the best to use for
curries. It is a long, slender grain, pointed at
the ends. Well wash it in several waters until
the last water that is poured off looks qmte
clean. Have ready on the fire a saucepan, three
parts full of freshly boiling water, add salt to it
in the proportion of one dessert-spoonful to a
quart, and throw the rice into tliis. Boil quickly
with the lid off, stirring it frequently with a fork
to prevent the rice sticking to the pan, and also
that it may be well tossed about with the water.
Cook from twelve to fifteen minutes, or until
the grains will rub down easily, when one is
tested between the finger and thumb. Then
strain tlirough a sieve or strainer, and finish
cooking and drying it, either by putting it back
into the saucepan by the side of the fire, or
lea\dng it on the sieve, which may be placed
on the rack above the fire, or on a plate in a
moderate oven. While drying stir hghtly with
a fork every now and then to keep the grsiins
separate.
Neapolitan Rice
(Fr. Riz a la Napolitaine)
Ingredients - ■
J lb. cooked Kice. 1 oz. Butter.
2 Tomatoes. Pepper aud Salt.
2 oz. grated Cheese.
Method. - Have the rice well cooked, the
tomatoes rubbed through a hair sieve and the
cheese grated. Melt the butter in a fireproof
dish, add the other ingredients, and stir together
over the fire. Season to taste and serve very
hot in the casserole.
Salsify (to Fry)
(Fr. Salsifis Frit)
Required -
Salsify. Frying Fat.
Flour. Pepper and Salt.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
Method. - ^^Vash the salsify and scrape the
roots gently to rid them of their outside coating.
Throw them into cold water to wliich a little
lemon juice or vinegar has been added to
preserve the colour. Then boil them in salted
water until just tender, and drain carefuUy so
as not to break them. Finish in the same way
as fried celery (p. 151).
Note. - Salsify may also be served in any
smtable sauce according to directions given for
JerusaJem Artichokes (p. 149).
Sea- Kale
{Fr. Chou Marin)
Cook in the same way as celery (see p. 151).
Sorrel
{Fr. Oseille)
This must be very fresh to be good. It can
be cooked according to directions given for
cooking spinach. Sometimes it is mixed with
equal quantities of spinach, or with a few leaves
of lettuce.
Spinach (to Boil)
(Fr. Epinaxds au Naturel)
Required -
1 lb. Spinach.
} oz. Butter.
Pepper and Salt.
Lemon Juice.
Sippets of Toast or Fried
Bread.
Method. - Spinach reduces so enormously in
cooking that one pound will make a very small
dish. Double the leaves lengthways and strip
off the stalks. Then wash the spinach thoroughly
in several waters until qtoite free from grit. It
is a vegetable which requires most particular
washing, growing as it does so near the ground.
It is very earthy, and takes a great deal of water
to make it clean. Handle it as lightly as possible,
as touching it too much with the hands causes
the leaves to lose all their crispness. Put it
into a saucepan, without any water except
that which adlieres to the leaves, sprinlde it
with salt, and put the Lid on the pan. Spinach
is the only green vegetable which is cooked with
the lid on the pan ; but, as no water is used,
were the lid left off, evaporation would be so
great that the spinach would soon burn. Tlie
green of it is so intense that there is no fear of
its discolouring unless it is cooked too long.
Cook until it is quite tender, from twenty to
thirty minutes, stirring frequently with a spoon.
When ready, drain well on a fine wire sieve with
a basin below it, and press out as much water
as possible with the back of a wooden spoon.
Then remove the basin, put a clean dry plate
underneath the sieve, rub the spinacli through
on to tlais, and scrape the sieve well under-
neath. Retiun the spinach to a saucepan,
with the butter, pepper and salt if necessary.
Stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, and add
a squeeze of lemon juice. Arrange it in a neat
pyramid on a hot dish, marking it up the sides
with the back of a fork, and garnish round the
base with sippets of toast or fried bread, a few
slices of hard-boiled egg, or some cooked beetroot
158
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
cut in fancy shapes, unless served as a garnish
to meat, when the croutons should be omitted.
Spinach with Cream
(Fr. Epinards a la CrCme)
Prepare in the same way as above, adding
two or tliree table -spoonfuls of cream at the
last.
Note. - A garnish of poached eggs or some
tliin slices of nicely fried ham or bacon is a
very nice accompaniment to tliis dish.
Stewed Spaghetti
Ingredients-
J lb. Spaghetti.
i pt. TeAl or Chicken Broth.
1 oz. Butter,
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Spaghetti is a very fine form of
Italian paste, and it is considered more dehcate
than macaroni. Break the spaghetti into small
pieces, and put it into a small saucepan with
the broth or any good light stock. Allow it to
simmer slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes
until soft and the liquid is all absorbed. Then
add the butter, and season to taste. The sieved
pulp of one or two tomatoes may be added for
a variety, or poached eggs may be served on
the top of the spaghetti. A httle grated cheese
too may be added.
Sweet Potatoes .
This vegetable is not as yet very well known
in this coimtry. It resembles the common
potato in size and appearance, and can be
cooked in the same way. Or, the following two
recipes are very good.
Sweet Potato Pie
Ingredients -
1 lb. cooked Sweet Potatoes.
2 table-spoonfuls Browned
Crumbs.
i pint well-seasoned White
Sauce.
1 oz. Butter.
Method. - Cut the potatoes in slices and
arrange them in a greased pie-dish in layers
with the white sauce. Sprinkle the crumbs
over and place the butter in small pieces on the
top. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty
minutes.
Method. - Stir the butter and fiour in an
earthenware dish until they form a paste. Add
the parsley and cream and then the potatoes
cut in slices. Season to taste and serve very
hot en casserole.
Tomatoes a I'Americaine
2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
2 table-sp. grated Cheese,
i oz. Butter.
I'eppcr and Salt.
Method. - Choose small firm tomatoes, not
over -ripe. Put them into boiUng water for a
minute or two, then Uft them out, dry and peel
them. Then grease a fireproof dish, and place
the tomatoes in it. Sprinkle thnm with half
the crumbs and cheese, and a little pepper and
salt. Add the curry powder and red-currant
jelly to the tomato sauce (see p. 145), and pour
this over the tomatoes. Put the remainder of
crimibs and cheese on the top, then the butter
in small pieces, and bake in a moderate oven
about twenty minutes. Serve hot. This dish
may be geirnished with rolls of bacon.
Tomatoes au Gratin
{Fr. Tomates au Gratin)
Ir^redients-
J lb. Tomatoes.
2 oz. Bread-crumbs.
1 oz. Butter.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Put the tomatoes into a basin, cover
them ^Tith boiUng water, and let them stand for
a few minutes. Then take them out, dry them,
and remove the skins. Cut them in sUces,
keeping them on a plate, so as not to lose any
of the juice. Grease a small pie-dish or gratin
dish, and put half the tomatoes at the foot of it.
Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put in half
the bread-crumbs, and half the butter in small
pieces. Then lay in the rest of the tomatoes,
season them, and put the remainder of the
bread-crumbs and butter on the top. Wipe
round the edge of the dish, and bake in a quick
oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve
in the dish in which it is cooked.
Tomatoes (Stuffed)
{Fr. Tomates Farcies)
Ingredients -
5 medium-sized Tomatoes.
J'epper and Salt
1 oz. Butter.
3 table-sp. Minced Meat.
2 tal)le-sp. Bread-crumbs.
1 Shallot
A little Stock.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
A few browned Bread-
crumbs.
5 croutons of Fried Bread.
Method. - Wipe the tomatoes first with a
cloth, tlion remove the stalk, and make a small
round hole at that end. With the end of a
teaspoon, scoop out the soft part from the inside,
and put it into a basin. Be very careful whilst
doing this not to break through the skin of the
tomatoes, and do not make the sides too thin.
Sesison the inside \v-ith pepper and salt, and turn
them upside down on a plate to drain. The
soft pEirt from the inside must be strained or
GUIDE TO COOKERY
159
rubbed through a sieve, and kept for moistening
the stuffing. The best meat to use for stuffing
the tomatoes is ham, tongue, or chicken, but any
nicely cooked meat will do. Melt the butter in
a small saucepan, add to it the shallot, very finely
chopped, and cook it slowly over the fire for a
few minutes. Then add to it the meat, white
bread-crumbs, and parsley mixed well together,
season to taste, and moisten with the liquid from
the tomatoes, and a httle stock if necessary.
Cook over the fire to swell the bread-crumbs,
and then fill up the tomatoes with this stuffing.
Do not fill them too full or they will biirst whilst
cooking. Sprinkle a few browned bread-crumbs
over the top, and place thom side by side on a
greased baking-tin. Cover with greased paper,
and bake in a moderate oven until they feel
tender, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Put
the fried cro^itons of bread on to a hot dish
with a dish paper on it, lift the tomatoes care-
fully on to this, and garnish with parsley.
Note. - -If liked, sauce, brown or tomato, may
be served round the tomatoes or separately.
A little grated Parmesan cheese or chopped
mushrooms may be added to the stuffing.
Small stuffed tomatoes axe sometimes used as
a garnish for meat dishes.
Young Turnips In Butter
{Fr. Navets au Caramel)
Required -
6 or 8 young Turnips.
Salt.
A pinch of Cinnamon.
Butter.
A pinch of Sugar.
Method. - Prepare the turnips and steam them
until half cooked. Then take them up and put
them into a casserole with a little butter, sprinkle
with salt, and add the sugar and cinnamon.
Put on the lid and cook slowly until the tvu-nips
are tender. They should be turned gently from
time to time to be a nice golden brown coloixr
when ready.
Required -
Turnips.
Pepper and Salt.
Mashed Turnips
Butter.
Method. - Prepare as many turnips as required
and cut them into mediun^, -sized pieces. Cook
them in a perforated steamer, or, if old,
boil in salted water until thoroughly tender.
The time will depend upon the age and freshness
of the turnips, from £ of an hour to li hours.
When qiute tender drain them thoroughly and
retvu-n to a dry saucepan. Mash them with a
fork or potato -beater until free from lumps,
and add butter in the proportion of ^ oz.
to each cupful. Season to taste and serve in a
hot vegetable dish in the form of a pyramid,
marking up the sides with the back of a fork.
Vegetable Marrow with White Sauce
{Fr. Courge a la Sauce Blanche)
Required -
1 Vegetable Marrow. I White Sauce (see p. 146).
Boiling Water. | Salt.
Method. - Wash the marrow, cut it in quarters,
remove the seeds, and peel it very thinly. If
large, cut it into neat-sized pieces, and throw
them into cold water until wanted. Then place
the pieces in a steamer and cook them until
tender from ^ to | of an hour. Serve in a
hot vegetable dish with white sauce or any other
suitable sauce poured over it.
Note. - The marrow may be boiled in milk,
and the milk afterwards used for making the
sauce.
Vegetable Marrow with Cheese
{Fr. Courge au Fromage)
Method. - Cook the marrow as above and
finish according to directions given for cauli-
flower with cheese (p. 151).
GENERAL NOTES ON SALAD-MAKING
Nearly all vegetables and meats may be used
as salads.
Cooked vegetables must not be pulpy but
firm, in order that they may be cut in slices or
fancy shapes.
All green vegetables should be young and
crisp, and must be carefully washed in cold
water to free them from dust and insects.
The main thing to observe in the washing of
green vegetables, such as lettuce, endive, cress,
&c., is to handle them very lightly ; if too much
touched their crispness is destroyed.
It is also imiDortant to have the vegetables
well dried after washing ; if any
water is left on them the dress-
ing will not adhere, but will run
to the bottom of the dish, and
both salad and dressing will be
poor. Green salad vegetables
should be shaken in a sieve or
wire basket first and then tossed
lightly in a cloth.
There are few vegetables
which cannot be used as a
salad. Among the most ap-
propriate may be named lettuce,
endive, mustard and cress, wat"r-cress, toinatoes,
celery, cucumber, spring onions, radishes, &c.,
various cooked vegetables, such as beetroot,
cauliflower, French or haricot beans, asparagus,
carrot, turnip, potatoes, Spanish onions, &c.
Poultry and game of any kind, ham, tongue,
or, in fact, any tender, well-flavoured meat cut
in small pieces may be used.
Fish too, such as salmon, turbot, halibut, sole,
cod, lobster, crab, oysters, &c.
Salad Basket.
160
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
A few hints on the preparation of the various
salad vegetables may be useful.
Lettuce. - Cxit off the root and remove any
coarse and discoloured outside leaves, and trim
away any decayed parts from the inside ones.
Sepeurate the rest of the leaves one from the
other, trim off the hard pieces of stalk, and
tlirow them into a basin of fresh cold water.
Wash lightly in tliis, and then take a second
clean cold water, and wash again. If rather
limp let the lettuce soak for half-an-hour or
so in cold water, then shako as dry as possible
in a sieve or wire basket, and toss lightly in a
towel. Tlie larger leaves of the lettuce may be
cut across in fine slireds with a knife, and the
smaller ones used as a garnish. Many people
object to use a knife and prefer to tear the leaves
in pieces with the fingers, but if a sharp knife is
used, and it is quickly and lightly done, it really
does no harm, and the lettuce looks much bettor.
Endive. - Prepare in the same way as lettuce.
Mustard and Cress. - Wash in several waters,
removing all black seeds. If rather Ump, soak
for half-an-hour in cold water. Shake in a wire
sieve or basket, and then in a cloth until dry.
Water-cress. - From the nature of its growth,
it requires most careful cleansing, or it may
prove most harmful. Remove all fibres and
deca3'ed leaves from the stalks. Then wash
carefully in several waters, and shake dry.
Radishes. - Cut off the tops and wash well in
cold water, rubbing off all black with the fingers.
If large, they may be scrubbed with a brush.
Dry in a towel. Tlicso may either be served
whole in a salad or cut in thin slices.
Carrot and Turnip must be cooked, but not
too soft, well drained, and cut in dice or fancy
shapes.
Spring Onions. - Cut off the roots, part of the
green tops, and the outside skin. Wash well,
letting the water run between the leaves. Dry
in a cloth, and serve whole or cut in tliin slices.
Celery. - Use the white inside part for salads.
Divide the stalks, and brush each part in cold
water with a vegetable brush. With a knife
remove any brown or discoloured parts, and, if
limp, soak for a short time in cold water. Then
dry and serve in a celery glass or cut in shreds
in a sal6kd.
For prep8U"ing the other vegetables see under
the special salads.
TO SERVE A SALAD
A salad should bo served as cold as possible,
and the dressing should not bo mixed with it
long before it has to be eaten.
A special spoon ought to be used for mixing
the dressing in horn, wood, or ivory. Silver
is apt to promote verdigris.
The dressing itself may be made hours before,
and even sufficient for two or three days made at
one time and bottled ready for use.
Although exact quantities have been given
for the various salad dressings, diversity of taste
must bo considered. There are two typical
dressings, i.e.. Vinaigrette sauce or French dress-
ing, made of oil and xnnegar, and Mayonnaise.
The former is the simpler and more wholesome
of the two, and that most frequently used on
the Continent. Mayonnaise is as a rule more
appreciated by the English people.
When a salad is served along with other dishes
the French dressing is the more suitable, but
for such salads aa chicken, lobster, game, &c..
Mayonnaise is generally used, as these are as a
rule served as a separate course.
Never use any but the best oil, and if not
using it frequently buy it in small quantities,
as it is apt to become rancid. Keep it in a cool
dark place. Cream may always take the placo
of salad oil.
The variety of ways in which a salad may
be garnished is endless, and although special
garnishes are specified in the following recipes,
they can of course be altered according to the
season of the year and to suit indi\'idual taste.
A salad may either be served in a salad bowl,
a glass dish, or in one of the various fancy china
dishes which can now be bought for a very small
sum. It is also customary to serve salads in
small dishes, allowing one to each person.
SALAD DRESSINGS
French Dressing or Vinaigrette Sauce
Ingredients -
Salt
i tea-sp. made Mustard.
2 table-spoonfuls Salad Oil.
1 table-spoonful Vinegar.
White Pepper.
Method. - This dressing is frequently made at
table in or over the salad bowl. If it is pre-
pared beforehand it should not be poured over
the salad until the time of serving. Mix the
salt, popper, and mustard together, and add the
oil gradually. When these are well blended
and the salt dissolved add the vinegar. A
pinch of cayenne and a little sugar may be
added. Sometimes a toa-spoonful of Tarragon
vinegar is put in, and by some people more oil
is preferred.
Salad Dressing
Ingredients -
2 hard-boiled Yolks.
I tea-sp. made Mustard.
White Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
A pinch of Sugar.
Method. - ^Rub the hard-boilod yolks through
a sieve, and put them into a basin with the
seasoning. Mix well together, and add the oil
gradually, stirring all the time. Then add the
vinegar, a little at a time, and mix well. The
sauce should be of the consistency of cream.
Note - If the dressing is to bo used for fish
GUIDE TO COOKERY
161
or lobster salad, a tea-spoonful of anchovy or
shrimp sauce is an improvement. The hard-
boiled whites of eggs may be shred and used as a
garnish for the salad.
Potato Dressing
1 table-spoonful Vinegar.
J tea-sp. made Mustard.
A pinch of Sugar.
Ingredients-
2 table-spoonfuls boiled and
sieved Potatoes.
3 table-spoonfuls Salad Oil.
White Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Put the potato into a basin with
the seasoning, and mix well together. Add the
oil gradually, stirring all the time, and then pour
in the vinegar. A little Tarragon vinegar may
be added. Cream may be substituted for the
oil.
Celery Salad
{Fr. Salade de C61eri)
Required -
1 head of Celery, Salad dressing.
Oarnish -
Parsley, Beetroot, or Small Cress.
Method. - Remove the outside stalks from
the celery, reserving these for flavouring stocks
or soups, and use the white inside part for the
salad. Separate the stalks, and wash and brush
them well in cold water. If time permits, let
these lie for half-an-hour in cold water, then lift
out and dry in a cloth. With a sharp knife
cut the celery across in shreds, and also shred
the white . of egg left from the salad dressing.
Mix these lightly together, put them in a salad
dish, and pour the dressi'^g over.
Garnish with a little finely-chopped parsley,
smaU sprigs of parsley, the green tops of the
celery, small cress, or beetroot cut in fancy
shapes. Curled celery may also be used as a
garnish.
To Curl Celery. - Cut a few firm sticks of celer^
into pieces about four inches in length. Then
with a sharp knife cut these in fine strips, like
a fringe, about three inches from the top, and
leaving about one inch at the foot as foundation.
Lot these lie in cold water for half-an-hour, or
until they have a curled appearance, and use
as a. gaornish.
Chicken Salad
(Fr. Salade de Volaille)
Required -
Some cooked Chicken.
1 Lettuce.
1 or 2 sticks of Celery.
Some small Cress.
A few Radishes.
Mayonnaise Sauce (p. 144).
Method. - Cut the cliicken in dice, removing
the skin. Wash the lettuce and celery. Dry
well and cut them in shreds. Mix these with
the chicken, half the cress, and a little Mayon-
naise. Pile high on a salad dish, and pour some
more Mayonnaise over the top. Garnish with
the small leaves of lettuce, radishes, and the
remainder of the cress.
Note. - Endive may also be used as a garnish,
Smd cucumber used instead of celery. A hard-
boiled egg cut in pieces may be added.
Crab Salad
{Fr. Salade de Crabe)
Required -
1 Crab (boiled).
1 Lettuce.
1 bunch of Water-cress.
1 hard-boiled Egg.
1 Tomato.
French Dressing (p. 160).
Method. - Pick aU the meat from the crab and
shred it finely, carefully removing all pieces of
shell. Wash and dry the lettuce and cress, and
slired them finely. Mix these in a basin with
the crab and salad dressing, and season rather
highly with pepper and salt. Pile this mixture
in a salad dish, and garnish with the tomato
and hard-boiled egg cut in pieces.
Note. - Mayonnaise sauce may also be used
for this.
Fisli Salad
(Fr. Salade de Poisson)
Make in the same way as crab salad, using
neat little flakes of cooked fish instead of the
crab. A little cucumber or a few radishes may
be used as a garnish.
Cucumber Salad
{Fr. Salade de Concombre)
3 or 4 Spring Onions.
French Dressing (p. 160).
Required -
1 Cucumber.
White Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Peel and slice the cucumber as thin
as a sheet of note-paper. Wlien doing this
always commence at the thick end and slice
towards the stalk ; if done the opposite way,
the cucumber will have an exceedingly bitter
taste. Lay these sUces on a plate with the
onions washed and thinly sliced, and sprinkle
them rather liberally with salt. Cover \vith
another plate, stand for half-an-hour, and then
pour off the water that has exuded from them.
This tends to make the salad more digestible.
Arrange the slices neatly in a salad dish and
pour the dressing over.
Note. - The oil may be omitted and vinegar
only used, and water-cress may take the place
of the onions.
Frencli Bean Salad
{Fr. Salade de Haricots Verts)
Required -
1 breakfast-cupful of cooked
French Beans.
1 tea- spoonful finely chopped
Parsley.
Method. - Have the beans cut in slireds and
as dry as possible. Mix them with the parsley
L
i tea-spoonful finely pow-
dered Herbs.
French Dressing (p. 160).
162
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
and mixed h"rbs finely powdered. Arrange
neatly in a salad dish, and pour the dreesing over.
Game Salad
(Fr. Salade de Gibier)
Make in tlie same way as chicken salad, and
use Ttulare sauce instead of Mayonnaise.
Haricot Bean Salad
{Fr. Salado do Haricots Blancs)
Prepare in the same way as French bean
salad (p. IGl), using small cooked haricot beans
instead of French beans. Garnish with tiny
sprigs of parsley or some curled celery.
Lobster Salad
{Fr. Salade de Homard)
Prepare in the same way as oyster salad
(see below), using some nice pieces of cooked
lobster in place of the oysters. It may be gar-
nished with slices of hard-boiled egg and bvmches
of sliced cucumber and radish.
Mixed Salad
For this take as great a variety of Balad
vegetables aa you can get, according to the
season of the year, and a suitable proportion
of each.
Such vegetables as finely shred lettuce and
endive, spring onions thinly sliced, tomatoes
peeled and cut in pieces, sUced beetroot, sliced
cucumber, shred celery, mustard and cress,
radishes, small pieces of cooked carrot and
turnip, &c., &c., are suitable. Mix well with
any of the salad dressings, axid garnish according
to taste.
Oyster Salad
{Fr. Sedade aux Hultres)
Required -
1 dozen Oysters.
Cayenne Pepper.
Salt
Mayonnaise Sauce.
Metiiod. - Wash, drain, and shred the lettuce
very finely, and arrange a bed of this on six
little china dishes. Put two oysters in each,
1 Lettuce.
A little Cress.
Small slices of Lemon.
and sprinkle with cayemie pepper aud salt.
Then coat the oysters with some thick Mayon-
naise, and garnish with small cress and a
small slice of lemon. Tliis salad is sufficient
for six pei-sons. The quantities can of course
be increased or reduced at pleasure.
Note. - This may also bљ served on one larger
dish. '
Potato and Beetroot Salad
{Fr. Salade de Pommes de Terro eu Betterave)
Required -
Method. - Potatoes for a salad should be rather
waxy, not mesdy - new potatoes are best. Cut
them into neat slices, and trim the slices with a
round cutter. Peel and slice the beetroot, and
arrange it in a salad dish in alternate rows or
circles with the potato. Sprinkle with finely
chopped parsley and shallot, and pour the
dressing over.
Note. - A little grated horse-radish may be
mixed with the dressing, and some water-oreas
used aa a garnish.
Tomato Salad
{Fr. Salade de Toraates)
Required -
3 or 4 Tomatoes.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 tea-sp. chopped Shallot.
French Dressing (p. 160).
Method. - First peel the tomatoes. To do this
either soak them in a basin of very hot water for
two or three minutes, or put them in a wire
basket and plunge them into boiling water for
a minute. The latter method is better ; it does
not soften the tomatoes so much. Remove the
skins very carefully with a small knife, and if
time permits allow the tomatoes to become quite
cold before cutting them up. Then slice them
rather thinly and, if large, cut the slices in two.
Place these slices very neatly on a salad dish,
sprinkling them with chopped parsley and
shallot. Pour the dressing over.
Note. - Mayonnaise sauce may be used instead
of the plain salad dressing, and the shallot may
be omitted.
PASTRY AND PASTRY-MAKING
General Notes on Pastry -making. - The making
of pastry requires a considerable amount of
pract'oe, and failure at first must not discourage
the bjginner. The following rules must be care-
fully attended to : -
Use only the best materials, and if an
economical pastry is wanted use good dripping
or lard in preference to inferior butter.
See that all the utensils used, such as board,
rolling-pin, and basin are particularly clean and
cool. Clean hands are also imperative. If the
hands are inclined to bo very warm wash them
some little time before beginning the pastry in
very warm water. Make the pastry in as cool a
place as possible ; the colder it is kept during
the making the lighter it will be. Roll the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
163
pastry lightly and press equally lightly with
both hands.
Never rub little pieces oS the fingers on to
the pastry, as, when cooked, they will form hard
lumps ; but clean the hands back into the basin
with a Uttle dry flour.
Never allow pastry to stick to the board, but
lift it occasionally on the rolling-pin and dust
some flour underneath. If anything has stuck
to the board, scrape it off carefully with a knife
before beginning again. Always sprinkle flour
over the board and pastry tlirough a flour-
dredger ; it makes it finer and hghter.
If the rolling-pin sticks to the pastry dust a
little flour over it, and brush it off again lightly
with a small brush kept for the piirpose. Never
roU a quantity of dry flour into pastry as it
gives it a white pasty appearance.
The exact amount of water to use is not given
in the recipes, as so much depends upon the
consistency of the butter and also upon the
flour used. The finer the flour the more water
it will take up.
However well pastry is made it will not be
a success unless the baking is carefully attended
to and the oven properly heated. If the oven
is not hot enough the butter will melt and run
out of the pastry before the starch grains in the
flour have time to burst and absorb it. This
makes the pastry heavy.
When the pastry is well thrown up and nicely
browned, cover it over with kitchen paper and
remove it to a cooler part of the oven until
sufficiently cooked. Before baking pastry in
any oven you should thoroughly understand the
heating of it, as the hottest part of one may be
the coolest part of anc+her. Never slam an
oven door, but open and close it gently and not
oftener than necessary.
Flaky Pastry
Proportions -
10 oz. Flour. A pinch of Salt.
7 oz. Butter. Cold Water.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - Weigh the butter, and let it lie for
some time in cold water before using it. Sieve
the flour and salt into a clean dry basin, and add
the lemon juice. Lift the butter out of the
water, and squeeze it dry in a clean floiu-ed
cloth. Divide it into four equal pieces. Take
one of these pieces and rub it into the flour with
the tips of the flngers and thumbs until quite
free from lumps. Then add sufficient cold
water to form all into one lump. Mix with the
hand as lightly as possible, and turn out on to
a floured board. Knead lightly until free from
cracks, and then roll out into a long narrow
strip. Take one of the remaining portions of
butter, and with the point of a knife spread it in
small pieces and in even rows all over the pastry.
Now flour the surface lightly, and fold the paste
exactly in three. Turn the pastry half round.
bringing the joins to the right-hand side. Press
down the folds sharply with the rolling-pin, so
as to enclose some air. Roll out the pastry
again into a long narrow strip, and proceed as
before until the two remaining portions of butter
have thus been used. If the butter becomes
soft during the rolling, lay the pastry aside,
for a short time, before completing the process.
The last time roll out the pastry to the desired
thickness, and if it reqmres widening, turn it
across the board and roll across. Never roll in
a slanting direction, or the lightness of the pastry
will suffer.
This pastry is not quite so rich as puff pastry.
It may be kept for several days in cold weather
if wrapped in greased paper or in a damp cloth.
Puff Pastry
{Pr. Feuilletage
Proportions -
i lb. Flour. A squeeze of Lemon Jalce.
i lb. Butter. Cold Water.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Weigh the butter, and let it lie in a
basin of cold water for some time before using it.
Sieve the flour and salt into a clean dry basin,
and add the lemon juice to them. Lift the
butter out of the cold water and dry it lightly
in a floured cloth. Take a quarter of this and
rub it into the flour with the tips of the fingers
and thumbs until there are no lumps left, then
mix with cold water into a stiffish dough.
Turn this on to a floured board and work it well
with the hands until it will no longer stick to the
fingers and forms a perfectly smooth dough.
Then roll it rather thinly into a square or round
shape. The butter to be used should be as
nearly as possible of the same consistency as the
paste. Form it into a neat flat cake, and place
it in the centre of the pastry. Fold it up rather
loosely, and flatten the folds with a rolling-pin.
Then roll out the pastry into a long narrow strip,
being careful that the butter does not break
through. Fold it exactly in three, press down
the folds, and lay the pastry aside in a cool place
for a quarter of an hour at least. This is caUed
giving the pastry one " turn " and seven of these
is the number usually required for puff pastry.
The next time the pastry is rolled, place it with
the joins at yovu* right-hand side, and the open
ends towards you. Give it two " tiu-ns " this
time, and again set it aside in a cool place for
at least fifteen minutes Repeat this until the
pastry has had seven rolls in all, one roll or turn
the first time and after that two each time with
an interval between. The object of this cooling
between the rolls is to keep the butt<"r and
fioiu- in distinct and separate layers, in which it
is the function of the rolling-pin and folding to
arrange them, and on which the lightness of the
pastry depends. After it has received its last
roll, it is better to be laid aside for some time
164
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Cold Water.
before using it, then roll to the thickness re-
quired. Tliis pastry will keep for several days
in cold weather if wrapped in a piece of well-
greased paper.
Rough-Pufl Pastry
Proportions-
i lb. Flour.
} lb. Butter or Lard.
A piDch of SalU
Method. - Prepare the butter as above, and
sieve the flour and salt into a clean dry basin,
and add the lemon juice to it. Put the butter
into the basin, cover it well over with the
flour, and then break it into pieces the size
of a hazel-nut. Have some very cold water
in a jug ready for mixing with, and make a
well in the centre of the flour and butter. Mix
very lightly with the right hand or with a
knife, pouring the water in gradually with the
left until you have added sufficient to bind all
together. Flour the baking-board and turn the
dough out on to it. Flour the rolling-pin and
roll the dough out very carefully into a strip
about three-quarters of a yard in length and
from seven to eight inches wide. Lift occasion-
ally while rolling, and dust some flour underneath
the pastry to prevent it from sticking to the
board. Roll the pastry on the one side only,
do not turn it over, and roll in short quick
strokes always from you. When rolled to tlie
required length, fold it in tliree, and press down
with the rolling-pin. Turn the pastry half
round, bringing the joins to the right-hand side,
and roll again in the same way as before. Fold
again in three, half turn and roll again, repeating
this until the pastry has had three rolls and three
folds. The fourth time of rolUng out, roll to
the size and shape required for use.
Note. - If the pastry becomes very soft while
polling, it should be laid away in a cool place
before completing the process. It is improved
by being kept for a few hours before using. In
cold weather it will keep for several days if
wrapped in a piece of greased paper. This pastry
may be mswle richer by using 6 oz. of butter in-
steeul of 4 oz. to J lb. flour. An egg well beaten
may be used for mixing with along with a little
water.
Short Crust
Proportione -
} lb. Flour.
1 tea-spoonful Caator Sugar.
i lb. Butter.
Method. - Rub the flour and sugar through a
wire sie' e into a clean dry basin. Add a squeeze
ot lemon juice, and if fresh butter is being used,
a pinch of salt also. Put in the butter, cover
it well over with the flour, and break it in
pieces. Then rub together lightly with the
tips of the fingers and thumbs until as fine as
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Cold Water.
bread-crumbs. Next make a well in the centre
of these dry ingredients, and add cold water
very gradually with the left hand whilst mixing
with the right. Mix with the hand or with a
knife. Use very little water in the mixing of
thi.s paste, or it will be tough instead of short.
Flour the pastry -board sliglitly, lay the dough
on it, and work lightly with the hands until free
from cracks. Then floiu- a rolling-pin, press
down the pastry first, then with sharp quick
strokes roll it out to the thickness required.
This pastry only requires one roll. Roll it on
the one side only, and be careful it does not
stick to the board.
Notes. - The above is a fairly rich paste, and if
a plainer one is wished, use only 3 oz. of butter,
or substitute lard or dripping for the butter.
The pastry may be made richer by using
rather more butter, 6 oz. to ^ lb. flovir, and the
yolk of an egg beaten up with a little water for
mixing.
The quantities given will make a pastry quite
suitable for all ordinary purposes.
Tliis is one of the most wholesome Idnds of
pastry. The butter is so thoroughly mixed with
the flour, that the latter is more thoroughly
cooked and is more digestible than in some of
the flaky pastries.
Plain Short Crust
} tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Cold Water.
Proportions -
i lb. Flour.
4 oz. Lard or Dripping.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Make in the same as above. A
little castor sugar should be added if the pastry
is to be used for a sweet dish.
Suet Pastry
} tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Cold Water.
Proportions -
1 lb. Flour.
i lb. Suet
i tea-spoonful Salt.
Method. - Weigh the flour carefully, add the
salt and baking powder to it, and rub these
tlirough a wire sieve into a clean dry basin.
Remove the skin from the suet, shred it very
finely with a sharp knife, and then weigh it.
Put it on a chopping-board, and sprinkle it with
some of the flour already weighed out. Then
chop it very finely, using enough flour to prevent
it sticking to the board and knife. The finer it
is chopped, the better the pastry will be. When
ready, mix it thoroughly with the flour in the
basin, rubbing all the ingredients hghtly together
with the tips of the fingers. Then make a well
in the centre of these drj' ingredients, and add
enough cold water to form into a smooth soft
dough. Turn out on to a floured board, leaving
the beisip "' 'e clean. Work lightly with the
hanr' " , .P e from cracks, then flour a rolling-
pi' ''^^ n^ak^Qg t to the thickness required.
,/
/■
GUIDE TO COOKERY
165
Note. - Buttermilk or sweet milk may be used
instead of water for mixing.
Half the quantity of flour may be omitted,
and \ lb. bread-crumbs used in its place.
To Make Patty Gases
First Method. - Take | lb. of puff pastry that
has had seven rolls, and roll it out to J inch in
thickness. Let it rest for fully five minutes
before cutting, to allow for slu-inking, or the
patties will be oval instead of round in shape.
Then take a cutter 2\ inches in diameter, and
stamp out as many rounds as possible from the
pastry. Do not cut too near to the edge of the
pastry, as it is usually of rather uneven thickness
there. Mark the middle of these rounds to
about half their depth with a cutter 1| inch in
diameter, a border being thus left outside the
centre cut of about \ inch in width. The pastry
should be icy cold when cut, or it will not rise
evenly. Lay the rounds on a baking-tin, keeping
them as much to the middle of this as possible,
a precaution which also promotes their rising
evenly. Brush over the tops with beaten egg,
being careful not to touch the edges, as the egg
would harden the pastry and prevent it rising.
Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes, or
until the pastry is well risen and nicely browned.
If on taking the patties out of the oven one side
is found to be higher than the other, press the
tops gently into place at once before they have
time to stiffen, using if necessary a little beaten
egg on a brush to make them stick. When the
patties are ready, lift off the inner circle of
pastry and remove the uncooked paste from
the interior to make room for the filHng. If Uds
are wanted for the cases, roll out the remainder
of the pastry to about J inch in thickness, and
stamp out rounds for covers with the smaller
of the two cutters used for the patties. Bake
these on a separate tin, as they vnW take a shorter
time to cook. About ten minutes should be
sufficient.
Second Method. - Use either rough puff or
flaky pastry, rolling it out to rather more than
J inch in thickness. Let it rest for a few minutes
to allow for shrinking, and cut into rounds with
a plain or fluted cutter 2\ inches in diameter.
From half of these rounds cut a hole in the
centre IJ inch in diameter. Moisten the edges
of the whole rounds with egg or water, and lay
the rings on the top. Place the patties on a
baking-tin, and prick the centres with a fork to
prevent them rising. Brush over with beaten
egg, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes.
On another tin put the small rounds cut from the
centre of the rings, brush them over with beaten
egg, and bake about ten minutes. These will
serve as covers. Wlion the patties are ready,
fill up the hollows in the centre with any mixture,
and put on the lids.
MEAT AND MEAT DISHES
SIMPLE METHOD OF COOKING MEAT
BAKING AND ROASTING
Roasting, properly speaking, is cooking in
front of an open fire, but owing to the limited
accommodation and the construction of the
stoves in modern houses, this method of cooking
has become almost a thing of the past, and
baking, or roasting in the oven, has almost
entirely taken its place.
The rules for both are practically the same.
The meat to be roasted should be weighed and
well wiped with a damp cloth, but never washed.
If frozen meat is being used the joint should be
allowed to thaw slowly in a warm kitchen for
Bome hours before it is cooked.
The tin used for roasting should, if possible,
be a double one, the under one being large
enough to hold a little water, wliich will prevent
the dripping in the upper portion from becoming
too hot and acquiring a burnt taste. The meat
should be placed on a small stand or trivet in the
baking-tin to prevent it soaking in the dripping
and becoming sodden. The tin should be large
enough to hold the meat comfortably without
projecting over the edges.
The first point in baking or roasting is to
expose the meat to a high temperature for ten
minutes in order to harden the outside and form
Double Koasting-Tin.
a coating, as it were, to prevent the escape of the
juice. Then the heat must be reduced and the
cooking continued until the joint is sufficiently
roasted.
During the process of cooking the meat ought
to be basted with dripping or butter at intervals
of 15 to 20 minutes to prevent its becoming
dried up. If the meat is not sufficiently fat
in itself a little extra dripping or butter should
j be added or kept in a jar on the top of the stove.
I The spoon used for basting ought to be laid on a
166
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
plate to prevent the drops of grease soiling the
stove.
There are one or two patent roasting-tins now
on the mau-ket which save tlie trouble of basting ;
one which bfistos the meat automatically \ out any trouble, and another where no attention
is required for either turning or basting.
It is very important that the oven should be
clean and well ventilated, otherwise the operation
of roasting will cause a most unpleasant smell.
It is impossible to lay down any exact rule
regarding the time for roasting meat, as the form
and thickness of the joint must always be taken
into consideration. A thin long piece of meat
would naturally take a shorter time to cook
than a thick soUd piece of equal weight. The
approximate time for cooking beef and mutton
is 15 minutes to the pound and 15 minutes over,
and for pork, lamb and veal, 20 minutes to the
pound and 20 minutes over ; but common-sense
and experience will be found to be the best
guides. Beef and mutton may be left rather
underdone if fancy dictates, but wliite meats are
unwholesome unless thoroughly cooked. If the
joint is large and thick it should be turned upside
down during part of the time to ensure the under
part being sufficiently cooked.
When the meat is ready lift it on to a hot dish
and keep it hot while the gravy is being made.
Pour the dripping from the tin into a jar and add
a small quantity of boiUng w-ater. Then with
an iron spoon scrape down any glaze or meat
juice which adheres to the side of the tin and add
stilt to taste. Never add colouring. If a large
quantity of gravy is required, a little stock
may be necessary, but any with a strong pro-
nounced flavour of vegetables should be avoided.
The pure juice of the meat is the best gravy.
Remove any grease from the surface of the gravy
with a piece of kitchen paper. Strain some of it
round the joint, and serve the surplus in a sauce-
boat, as it is awkward for the carver if the dish
is made too full.
BOILING
Although this is one of the simplest methods
of cooking meat, it is one which frequently meets
with failure. Instead of ha\ing a tender joint
full of juice, a piece of meat both tough and
tasteless will be served up. Boiling is best
suited to large joints ; in fact, nothing under three
or four pounds should be attempted.
If it is fresh meat, wipe and weigh the joint
the same as for rotisting and then plunge it
into a saucepan with sufficient boihng water to
cover \t. Boil quickly for 5 minutes to form a
casing on the outside of the meat, then draw the
saucepan to one side and allow it to simmer only
until sufficiently cooked. There should be just
a gentle bubbling on the surface of the water ;
if boiled hard the meat will be leathery and taste-
less.
Salt in the proportion of one table-spoonful to
a gallon of water should be added to the water,
and any scum that rises should be carefully
removed. Suitable vegetables, such as caa-rota,
turnips, or parsnips, should be cooked along with
the meat.
Salt meat should be put into cold or tepid
water to begin with in order to soften it and
draw out some of the salt. In fact, if it is very
salt it is a good plan to soak it in cold water for
some time before cooking. The time for boiling
will vary from 20 to 30 minutes to the pound and
20 or 30 minutes over according to the kind and
shape of the meat. It must be borne in mind
that boiled meat should never be underdone,
and it is better to err on the safe side and give
it too much time than to undercook it.
If the meat is to be served cold, it should be
allowed to cool in the water in which it was
cooked.
The usual gravy for boiled joints is some of
the liquor in which they are cooked A tasty
sauce can also be served separately, such as
caper sauce, or onion sauce with boiled mutton,
bechamel sauce with boiled lamb, horse-radish
sauce or tomato sauce with boiled beef, &c.
The remainder of the liquor in which the
meat has been cooked should be reserved for
making soup.
BRAISING
Take a stewpan with a tight-fitting lid and
place a few slices of fat bacon at the foot. On
the top of this put a layer of carrot, turnip,
onion, and celery cut in dice and in equal pro-
portions. Season with pepper, salt, and a small
bunch of herbs. Pour in enough stock or water
to reach tiie top of these ingredients and bring
to the boil. Place the meat to be braised on the
top and cover with greased paper so as to keep
down the steam, and cook slowly at the side of
the fire or in the oven. This method of cooking
makes tough meat tender and of good flavour.
The time will depend upon the size and kind of
meat.
FRYING
Dry Frying or, properly speaking, Saut61ng, is
cooking in a shallow pan with a small quantity of
fat. The fat should be made quite hot and then
the meat placed in and cooked on both sides.
Chops and steaks can be cooked in this way, but
they will not be so digestible as when grilled.
Deep Frying or Frying Proper. - Proceed in the
same way as for fish by this method (p. 131).
STEAMING
Both meat and poultry can be steamed by
placing them in a double cooker or patent
steamer, or even in a jar jjlaced in a saucepan of
boiling water. It is a slow method of cooking
and most suitabl" for tender pieces of meat.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
167
There must be plenty of steam or the process
will not be a success.
STEWING
Stewing means cooking in a small quantity of
liquid at a low temperature. It is one of the
most economical ways of cooking, firstly because
there is nothing lost, any juice that is drawn
from the meat being served in the gravy.
Secondly, because the coarser and cheaper
pieces of meat may be used as the long slow
cooking makes them tender ; and, thirdly, very
little fuel is required and very httle attention
when once the stew has been set going.
A stew is generally a mixtiu-e of meat and
vegetables, and success depends very much upon
the careful seasoning and blending of flavours.
Examples of several different kinds of stews will
be fovmd in the following recipes.
A stew may be cooked in a stewpan or in a jar
in the oven. A double saucepan is also very
useful for this mode of cooking or the saucepan
containing the stew may be placed in a larger
one containing hot water. The lid should be
removed as seldom as possible, and it should fit
the saucepan or jar tightly so as to avoid all
waste through evaporation.
The time for stewing will depend upon the
kind of meat used and the size of the pieces.
Stevrlng in Earthenware. - This method of
cooking is becoming very popular, and the simple
clay casseroles which can now be bought in so
many different shapes and sizes are admirably
adapted to the purpose. They have much to
recommend them from the point of view of
cleanliness ; they are easily cleaned and there is
no danger of rust. They are also economical
as far as fuel is concerned, as their heat-retaining
power being so great they wUl simmer for hours
over a gentle heat without burning the food.
They are not expensive to buy, and if proper care
is taken of them they will last a long time.
Food cooked in them is usually served in the
pot, hence the term " En Casserole," and therein
lies part of the novelty. A folded serviette may,
if liked, be pinned round the outside, but some
of the pots are so quaint and ornamental, this
rather spoils the effect.
There are different kinds of ware for cooking
purposes now on the market ; besides the all
brown clay-pot there is the brown and green
tire-proof ware with white or yellow linings and
the all white fire-proof china.
Little rechauffes of meat, fish, and poultry
can all be served up " en casserole," and it is
also an excellent method of stewing fruit.
BROILING OS GRILLING
This is cooking on a hot gridiron either over or
under a bright clear fire. The process can only
be applied to small thin pieces of meat, which
will cook quickly, such as chops, steak, kidneys,
joints of game and poultry, &c.
The meat chosen must always be of the best
quaUty, otherwise it ^dll be tough and uneatable.
It is impossible to obtain that red juicy appear-
ance which is essential to a good steak or chop
with inferior meat.
The state of the fii'e is one of the next points of
consideration. It ought to consist of glowing
red embers, without any smoke or flame. A
handful of salt sprinkled over it sometimes
helps to disperse any smoke.
Place the gridiron, which must be very clean,
over the fire and allow it to become hot, then
grease it with a piece of fat or suet held on the
end of a fork. The gridiron must be placed or
held in a slanting position and from three to six
inches above the coals, according to the intensity
of the heat. Lay the meat on it and let one side
cook while you count ten at about the same rate
as the ticlang of a clock, then turn with the
steak tongs or the blades of two knives and cook
the same length of time on the other side, and
repeat the process until the meat is sufficiently
cooked. The regular turning is very important,
as it means slower cooking and prevents the
surface from being burned.
The time must be regulated by the thickness
rather than by the weight of the meat, and ex-
perience alone can teach when the chop or steak
is done to a nicety. Touch is the best guide.
If, when pressed with the back of a fork, the meat
feels spongy and very elastic it is still in a raw
state ; if, on the other hand, it is hard and without
resistance it is overcooked. Tlae aim must be to
hit the happy medium and serve the meat well
browned on both sides before that puffed appeaj-
ance has disappeared and all the steam of the
juices has escaped through the crust.
Broihng can also be done in a hanging gridiron
in front of a clear fire, but the result is not so
satisfactory.
When a gas stove is used the grilling is done
underneath the light instead of on the top (see
p. 96). A little water put in the dripping tin
will prevent the fat catching fire.
BEEF AND MUTTON
Boiled Salt Beef
Choose a nice piece of salt beef, aitchbone,
rotmd or brisket, and bind it up firmly with a
piece of tape to prevent it having a ragged
appearance when cooked. (For Boiling Salt
Meat, see p. 166.)
It is usual to cook vegetables along with this
meat. Prepare a supply of carrots, turnips, and
onions in proportion to the size of the meat ;
keep the onions whole, cut the carrots into three
or four pieces lengthwise, and the turnips in
thick slices. Wlien the meat has come to the
boil add the vegetables, or if the meat is very
large put them in rather later so that they do not
168
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
become too much cooked. Small dumplings are
also a favourite accompaniment to tliis dish.
For servang lift the meat on to a hot dish and
remove the tape. A silver skewer may be put
in to keep the meat together. Garnish with the
vegetables and dumplingrs placed alternately
round the dish. Strain a little of the liquid
round and serve an extra supply in a sauce-boat.
A dish of green vegetables may be served
separately.
Dumplings to Serve vrlth Meat
IngredienU -
4 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A little Water or Milk.
6 oi. Flour.
2 oz. Suet.
1 tea-gpoonful Salt. I
Method. - Chop the suet and mix it lightly
with the flour, salt, and baking powder. Bind
all together with water or milk and knead lightly.
The dough must be soft without being sticky.
Make it up into small balls and cook them from
ten to fifteen minutes beside the meat. The
water must be kept simmering all the time they
are in. Serve at once, or they will be heavy.
Roast Beef
(Fr. BcEuf Roti)
The best joints for roasting are the sirloin
and the ribs. The round and aitchbone can
also be cooked in this way, but to be successful
the meat requires to be very tender. If a large
sirloin has to be roasted it is a good plan to cut
a piece off the thin end and either stew or cook
it in some other way, as if roasted with the
rest of the joint it is apt to become overcooked
before the other part is ready.
Ribs of beef are often better boned and rolled
before roasting ; it makes a neater joint and is
more economical, as the bones Asith all their
goodness can be used for soup. (For Roasting
and Making the Gravy, see p. 165.)
A little shredded horse-radish may be used as
a garnish, or horse-radish sauce may be served
separately. Yorkshire pudding (p. 193) and roast
or baked potatoes are the usual accompaniments.
Grilled Steak
The steak must be cut from a well-hung juicy
piece of meat. The beet are from the rump or
fillet or from the tender part of the round. The
steak should be cut from IJ to IJ inches in thick-
ness. Wipe it with a damp cloth and trim off
any superfluous fat. Beat the meat slightly
with a cutlet bat and then make it as shapely aa
possible. If small round steaks are required, it is
best to use the fillet cut in slices. Moisten both
sides of the meat with a little salad oil or melted
butter, place it on a well-heated gridiron and
cook according to directions given for broiling.
The time will vary from twelve to fifteen
minutes according to the thickness of the meat,
and also upon wliether it is liked very underdone
or well cooked. Serve at once on a very hot
dish and put a pat of maitre d'h6tel butter on
the top. The heat of the meat should melt the
butter and the parsley should look fresh and
green.
A little water-cress may be iised as a garnish,
or a few small baked tomatoes may be put round
the dish. Potato chips or balls should be served
separately.
Braised Round of Beef
(Fr. Boeuf k la Casserole)
Ingredients -
3 lbs. Round of Beef.
2 oz. good Dripping.
Trimmings of Ham
Bacon.
1 Carrot
1 Onion.
Bunch of Herbs.
1 pint Stock.
Seasoning.
Metlwd. - Put the dripping and some trim-
mings of ham and bacon into a stewpan, and,
when melted, put in the vegetables cut in pieces
and the seasonings. Tie the meat into a neat
shape with a piece of tape, and when the contents
of the saucepan are hot place it on the top with
any bones or scraps round the sides. Put on the
lid and cook slowly for twenty minutes until the
meat has taken colour. Add the stock and, if
Hked, a glass of white wine. Cook slowly from
three to four hours untU the meat is thoroughly
tender. Lift it on to a hot dish, remove the
tape, and keep it warm while the gravy is pre-
pared. If the liquid in the saucepan has reduced
very much add a little stock, and strain into
another saucepan. Boil for a few minutes,
remove any grease from the top, pour some of
this gravy round the meat, and serve the re-
mainder separately.
A puree of potato is a good accompaniment
with this dish.
Scotch Collops
Ingredients -
1 lb. lean juicy Beef.
2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs,
1 oz. Beef Dripping, Butten
or Bacon Fat
1 Onion.
J pint Stock.
Pepper and Salt.
1 tea-sp. Flavouring Sauce.
1 Slice of Toast.
Method. - Have the meat minced along with a
small proportion of fat. Melt the one ounce of
fat into a stewpan, and, when hot, put in the
onion finely chopped and the meat. Pound well
with a Mooden spoon until nicely browned. Add
the stock and seasoning and simmer slowly for
half-an-hour. Add the bread-crumbs about ten
minutes before it is ready, so as to absorb the
grease. Serve garnished with small crotltona of
toast.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
169
Haricot of Ox-Tail
{Fr, Queue de Boeiif en Haricot)
Ingredients -
1 Ox-tail.
1 pint Brown Stock.
1 Carrot, 1 Turnip, and 1
Onion.
A sprig of Parsley, Thyme,
and Marjoram.
1 Bay Leaf.
1 stick of Celery.
2 oz. Butter.
2 oz. Flour.
Pepper and Salt.
1 glass of Claret.
GarnWi.
Fancy shapes of Carrot and
Turnip or Glazed Onions.
Method. - Wash the tail, and cut it in pieces,
removing any superfluous fat. Put them into
cold water, and bring to the boil. Boil for ten
minutes, then strain and rinse the pieces of tail.
Dry them well, and coat them with the flour.
Melt the butter in a saucepan ; when smoking
hot put in the tail, and fry a nice brown colour.
Add some small pieces of vegetable, the herbs,
stock, and seasoning. Cover the pan, and
simmer slowly from three to four hours, skimming
when necessary. When the tail is tender lift
the pieces on to a hot dish. Skim the sauce,
add the wine, and strain through a fine strainer
over and round the tail. Garnish with fancy
shapes of carrot and turnip which have been
cooked separately.
Beef Creams
(Fr. Cremes de Bceuf)
Ingredienta-
i lb. lean juicy Beef.
Pepper and Salt.
Pur^e of Spinach or Potato.
1 table-sp. Brown Sauce.
lEffg.
2 table-sp. whipped Cream.
1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 des.-sp. chopped Mush-
rooms.
Brown or Piquante Sauce.
1 gill Stock.
1 oz. Butter.
Panada
I 2 oz. Flour.
Method. - Greaae six or seven small entree
moulds, and decorate them at the foot with
chopped parsley and mushrooms.
To Prepare the Cream. - ^Remove all skin and
fat from the meat, and pass it through the
mincing machine. Make a panada with the
stock, butter, and flour ; put the stock and
butter into a saucepan, bring them to the boil,
and sprinkle in the flour. Then mix until
perfectly smooth, and cook thorouglily. Put
this panada into a mortar with the meat, brown
sauce, egg, and seasoning. Pound well, and rub
all through a wire sieve. Add the cream and
the remainder of the parsley and mushrooms.
Mix lightly, and fill up the prepared moulds.
Place these in a shallow pan or tin with a double
fold of paper at the foot. Pour in enough boiling
water to come half-wayup the sides of the moulds,
and cover with greased paper. Steam slowly for
fifteen minutes, or until the creams feel firm to
the touch. Lift them out, and allow them to
stand for a minute or two. Then unmoxild
them carefully, and dish on a puree of potato or
spinach and poiu" brown sauce or piquante
sauce round.
Required-"
Beef Olives
Force-meat
IJ lb. Beef (cut thin).
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
1 oz. Flour.
J pint Stock.
1 dessert-spoonful Ketchup.
Pepper and Salt.
3 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
1 table-sp. chopped Suet or
melted Butter.
1 tea-sp. chopped Pargley.
i tea-sp. mixed Herbs.
Pepper and Salt.
Egg or Milk to bind.
Method. - First prepare the force-meat. Put
the bread-crumbs into a basin, and add to them
the parsley, herbs, suet or butter, pepper and
salt. Mix all together, and add enough milk or
beaten egg to bind, but do not make the mixture
too moist.
Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and cut it
into oblong-shaped pieces, suitable for rolling
up, and as much one size and shape as possible.
Any nice pieces of meat that are too small or
ragged to make into rolls may be cut up and
rolled inside the other pieces, also some small
pieces of hard fat. Spread out all the strips of
meat on a board, put some of the force-meat into
the centre of each, and roll them up. Tie round
with a piece of coarse thread or fine twine, and
roll them in the flour. Melt the dripping or
butter in a stewpan, and when smoking hot put
in the rolls of meat and keep turning them over
with a spoon until they are browned on all sides.
Lift them out on to a plate as they are ready,
and when all are done, pour away the fat from the
pan and add the stock. Add also the seasonings,
bring to the boil, and skim well. Return the
rolls of meat, put the Ud on the pan, and simmer
very slowly from one and a half to two hours, or
until the meat feels quite tender.
To Serve. - Lift out the beef oHves on to a hot
dish, remove the strings, and arrange them
neatly down the centre of the dish. Strain the
gravy over and round. Garnish with a little
very finely chopped parsley, green peas, or carrot
and turnip cut in fancy shapes.
Note. - Some finely chopped ham or tongue
may be added to the stuffing, also a little
chopped onion if desired. Or a tiu-ned ohve,
an oyster, or some chopped mushrooms may be
put inside. Sometimes sausage meat is used
instead of the above force-meat. The beef olives
may, if liked, be dished on a border of potatoes
or spinach.
Instead of cutting the meat in pieces it may
be made in one large roll. Veal olives can be
done in the same way.
170
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Russian Steaks
{Fr. Biftecks 4 la Russe)
Ingredients -
1 lb. tender Steak.
i lb. Fillet of Veal.
1 small Shallot
chopped.
lEfor.
finely
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
2 oz. clarified Fat.
Tomato Suuce.
Method. - Remove all skin from the meat, cut
it in pieces, and pass it twice tlirough the
mincing machine. Then put it into a basin, and
add the shallot, parsley, and seasoning. Moisten
with the egg well beaten, and mix well. Spread
the mixture on a plate, and allow it to set for
half-an-hour. Then di%'ide it into eight or ten
equal-sized pieces. Form each piece into a
round flattish cake, using flour to prevent the
mixture from sticking to the board, and egg and
bread-crumb them. Then flatten the steaks
with a knife and re -shape them. Melt the fat in
a frying-pan. When smoking hot, put in the
steaks, and fry them first on one side and then
on the other until nicely browned. They will
require fully ten minutes to cook. Drain them
well, and serve in a circle on a hot dish. Pom-
tomato sauce round.
Note. - These steaks may, if liked, be dished
on a border of potatoes (p. 156), and green peas
used as a garnish.
Tripe with Tomatoes
{Fr. Tripes a I'ltaiienne)
Ingredients-
\i lbs. dressed Tripe,
li 02. Butter.
1 cupful Tomato Sauce.
2 table sp. Orated Cheese.
i lb. Mushrooms.
Stock.
2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
Seasoning.
Method. - Wash the tripe in warm water and
cut it in thin strips. Put it into a stewpan with
the mushrooms peeled and sliced, the butter,
seasoning, and enough light stock to cover.
Stew slowly until the tripe is tender, add the
tomato sauce and cook a few minutes longer.
Arrange the stew in a fire-proof dish, sprinkle
the bread-crumbs and cheese over the top, and
brown in the oven.
Boiled ToDgue with Caper Sauee
(Fr. Langue de Boeuf - Sauce aux Cfipres)
Rehired -
1 Fresh ToDgue. A bunch of Herbs.
1 Carrot. Salt.
Turnip. Caper Sauce.
1 On.oD stack with Cloved.
Method. - Trim the tongue, removing any un-
tidy-looking pieces from the root end. Put it
into a saucepan with cold water to cover, bring
to the boil and boil for ten minutes. Strain and
rinse away any scum with fresh water. Cov"r
the tongue again with M'arm water, add the
ti'immings, and, when boiling, add the vegetables
cut in pieces and the other seasonings. Cook
slowly for four hours or until the tongue is qviite
tender, then lift it up on a hot dish ; remove the
skin and cut it in halves without quite severing
the pieces. Make some caper sauce (see p. 142),
adding to it two yolks of eggs and mask the
tongue with this.
Stuffed and Roast Shoulder of Mutton
Required -
A shoulder of Mutton.
4 oz. Bread-crumba.
IJ oz. chopped Suet.
A little grated Lemon Rind
1 table-sp. chopped Parsley.
A little Milk, or 1 Egg.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
Method. - Remove the bone from the mutton,
wipe it well with a damp cloth, and season with
pepper and salt. Then prepare the stuffing : -
Put all the dry ingredients into a basin, and
season to taste. A little finely chopped ham
or tongue may be added or some finely powdered
herbs. Add enough beaten egg or milk to bind
all together into a stiffish paste. Place this in
the centre of the mutton and either sew it in or
strap it into shape with a piece of tape. Weigh
the joint and then roast according to directions
given on p. 165.
Remove the tape or sewing-cotton before
serving and keep in shape with a silver skewer.
Pour a plain gi*avy round and garnish with
small baked tomatoes.
Ingredients -
\\ lbs. of Mutton.
1 lb. Potatoes.
3 Onions.
A little Parsley.
Hot Pot
2 Sheep's Kidneys.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
}"pint Stock.
Pepper aud Salt.
Method. - This dish should be cooked and
served in an earthenware pot. Trim the meat
and kidneys and cut them into small neat pieces.
SUce the onions thinly and scald them in boiling
water a few minutes. Peel the potatoes, cut
a few of them in halves or quarters, and slice
the remainder rather thickly. Arrange the in-
gredients in layers in the dish, seasoning each
with a little pepper and salt. The last layer
should be the pieces of potato. Pour in the
stock and put the butter or dripping in pieces
on the top. Cover with the lid or twist a piece
of strong paper over the top, and cook in the
oven from one and a half to two hours. About
half-an-hour before serving remove the cover
and allow the top to become a nice brown
colour. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley
and serve in the dish.
Note. - Beef or veal may be used instead of
mutton. A few mushrooma may bљ added if
liked.
4 or 5 Potatoes.
1 Spanish Onion.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Wipe the meat and cut it in con-
venient-sized pieces. Put it into an earthenware
stewpan, add water and seasoning, and simmer
for half-an-hour. Then add potatoes sliced and
cabbage carefully prepared and cut in six or
eight pieces. Replace the lid and stew from
three-quartei-s to one hoiu" longer. Add more
seasoning if necessary and serve in the casserole.
Note. - Any bones shovdd be stewed with the
meat and lifted out before serving.
Mutton Cutlets
(Fr. Cotelettes de Mouton)
Required -
li lb. best end of the Neck
of Mutton.
Pepper and Salt
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
Frying Fat.
A Potato Border.
Brown, Tomato, or Piquante
Sauce.
Method. - For mutton cutlets the meat shoiild
be very small, and the butcher should be in-
structed to saw off the chine bone, since when this
is done the cutlets can be easily divided without
the aid of a saw or chopper. Wipe the meat
first with a damp cloth, then cut it with a very
sharp knife, allowing a bone to each cutlet.
(This quantity should make five.) Trim off
the fat, leaving only a narrow rim, and scrape
one inch of the bone at the end quite clean to
allow of a cutlet fiiU '^ing put on afterwards.
Scrape also the bone on the inner side, and if
too long and unsightly, chop a piece off from
each, but make all the cutlets as nearly as
possible the same shape and size.
Season them with pepper and salt, brush over
with well-beaten egg, and coat with finely made
bread-crumbs. Put the cutlets on a board and
re -shape them with a clean dry knife, and remove
all crumbs from the inside bone. Then lay them
on a dish or tin with a double paper under them,
and they are ready for cooking.
To Cook the Cutlets. - Melt about two otince
of clarified fat in a frjdng-pan, and allow it to
become smoking hot over the fire. Then lay in
the cutlets, and fry them rather slowly, first on
one side and then on the other, until they are
nicely browned. They will require from eight
to ten minutes to cook. Drain them well on the
kitchen-paper before dishing.
To Serve the Cutlets. - Arrange a border of
mashed potatoes on a hot dish and arrange
the cutlets on the top of this, one leaning
against the other, and with all the bones to
the inside. The ends of the bones may be gar-
nished with small cutlet frills. Pour brown,
tomato, piquante, or any other suitable sauce
round. (See Sauces.)
Uotea. - ^The outleta may be dished in a straight
1 small Apple.
J pint Stock
A little Chutney.
Pepper and Salt.
Boiled Eice.
row down the dish instead of in a circle. Spiiiacli
may be used in place of potato, or the cutlets
may be dished without either.
Green peas, small baked tomatoes, or a
macedoine of vegetable may be put in the centre
as a garnish.
Curry of Kidneys
Ingredients -
4 or 5 Sheep's Kidneys,
i oz. Butter.
1 dessert-sp. Kice Flour.
1 tea-sp. Curry Powder.
1 table-spoonful Cream.
1 small Onion.
Method. - ^Melt the butter in a stewpan or
eaxthenware casserole, put in the kidneys, split
and skirmed, and cook them for a few minutes.
Skin and slice the onion very thinly, peel and
chop the apple, and put these two into the pan
with the kidneys. Fry for a few minutes, then
add the rice flour, cm-ry powder, chutney,
pepper, and salt. Mix weU, and pour in the
stock. Allow the kidneys to stew slowly in this
sauce until they are quite tender, from half to
three-quarters of an hovu-. Add a httle cream
at the last, and serve with boiled rice.
Note. - Veal kidney may be used instead of
sheep's, but it will take rather a longer time to
cook.
Grilled Sheep's Kidneys
{Fr. Rognons de Mouton Grille)
Ingredients -
6 Sheep's Kidneys. Croiitons of Fried Bread or
IJ oz. Butter. Buttered Toast.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - ^The kidneys must be very fresh.
Take off the thin skin which covers them, and
spht them open without separating the two
parts. Remove the white tube or duct, and cut
away the fat from the middle. Hold the kidneys
open and pierce them from one side to the other
with small wooden or silver skewers. Melt the
butter and brush the kidneys over with it,
season them with pepper and salt, and sprinkle
them with a few bread-crvunbs. W^arm a grid-
iron, grease the bars, place the kidneys on it
with the cut-side downwards, and grill over a clear
fire for about eight minutes. Turn the kidneys
frequently whilst they are cooking. When done,
place them on a hot dish, with a croflton under
each, and remove the skewers if they are wooden
ones. The hollows in the kidneys may be filled
with mSitre d'hotel butter and devil sauce may
be served separately.
Sheep's Tongues k la Maddre
{Fr. Langues de Mouton a I'ltalienne)
Ingredients -
4 Sheep's Tongues I 1 pint Madeira Sanoe.
IJ pint Stock. I
Method. - Sheep's tongues may be bought
either fresh or pajrtially boiled. If freah, soak
172
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
them in salt and water for two or three houra,
and then rinse them. Put them into a stowpan
with enough well -flavoured stock to cover them,
and simmer slowly about two hours or until
tender. If partially cooked, the tongues will
not require soaking, and from half to three-
quarters of an hour will be sufficient to cook
them. When ready take them up, remove the
skin, trim the roots, and cut each tongue in
tliree lengthways. Put them into a ste%vpan
with the sauce, and simmer for ten minutes.
Tlien dish the pieces of tongue neatly, and pour
the sauce over.
Lamb Cutlets with Chestnuts
{Fr. C Ingredients -
8 or 9 Larab Cutlets 1 oz. Butter.
Pepper and Salt. A pinch of Salt.
2 oz. Butter. A pinch of Sugar.
Brown Sauce. Water.
1 lb. Chestnuts. A little Stock or Milk.
Method. - Prepare the pur6e of chestnuts
(p. 126), and keep it warm.
Trim and cook the cutlets in the same way as
mutton cutlets (p. 171), and arrange them in a
crown on a hot dish with the pur6e of chestnuts
in the centre. Pour a good brown sauce (not
too thick) round the dish.
Ragout of Lamb with Green Peas
(Fr. Ragotit d'Agneau aux Petita Pois)
Ingredients -
2 lbs. Breast or Neck of
Lamb.
2 oz. Butter.
1 table-gpoonful Flour.
1 pint Shelled Peas.
1 Lump Sugar.
Seasoning.
Some light Stock.
A sprig of Mint.
A small bunch of Herbs.
Method. - Cut the meat in neat pieces and
sprinkle it with the flour. Melt the butter in a
Btewpan, put in the meat and brown it slightly.
Add the seasonings, peas, and enough light stock
or meat boilings to cover. Stew slowly for
one and a quarter hours or until the lamb is quite
tender. Lift out the mint and herbs before
serving. One or two table-spoonfuls of crram
added to it at the last will be an improvement.
Note. - Veal or mutton may be cooked in the
same way.
Lamb
's Fry
(Ft. Foie et Fressure d'Agneau)
y ngrp(ii^nts^~~'
I.amb's Fry.
1 Onion.
Parsley.
2 oz. Butter.
Lemon Juice.
Method. - Wash and dry the fry, then cut the
liver in sUcea and the heart and lungs in small
pieces. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
onion finely chopped, and fry it a hght brown
colour. Then put in the heart and lungs and
stir them over the fire for seven or eight minutes.
Add the liver and seasoning and cook for ten
minutes longer or until all is well browned.
Sprinkle with parsley, add the lemon juice, and
serve very hot. This dish is suitable to serve
en casserole.
PORK AND VEAL
Pork Cutlets
(Fr. Cotelettes de Pore)
Ingredients -
5 or 6 Pork Cutlets. i 1 table-spoonful Flour.
Seasoning. 1 Fried Apples.
Method. - The cutlets should be taken from
the loin or best end of the neck and must not
be more than half an inch in thickness. Trim
them neatly, removing most of the fat, and try
to make them of uniform shape. Season with
pepper and salt and coat lightly wnth flour.
Melt some of the fat trimmings in a frj'ing-pan,
and fry the cutlets in this. Cook slowly, turning
them three or four times. Serve them on a very
hot dish and garnish with fried apples.
Fried Apples. - Cut some rather acid apples
in quarters. Remove the core, but not the
skin. Then fry the pieces in butter until tender
but not broken.
Note. - Apple sauce may be served instead of
the fried apples.
To Boil a Ham
(Fr. Jambon Bouilli)
Soak in lukewarm water at least twelve hours
before cooking, then scrape it and weigh it.
Put it into a saucepan with sufficient lukewarm
water to cover it (if the ham is very salt, cold
water will be better), bring to the boil, and
skin well. Then simmer slowly until the ham
is cooked. Allow from twenty-five to thirty
minutes to the pound according to the kind and
thickness of the ham. It is ready when the skin
peels off ea.sily. A few vegetables may be
cooked with the ham if liked, or sometimes a
pint of ale or a gill of brown vinegar is added
to give the ham a more mellow flavour. If the
ham is to be served cold, allow it to cool in the
water in which it was boiled. Then remove the
rind and trim the fat. Sprinkle with brown
bread-crumbs and brown sugar, and, if liked,
stick in a few cloves. Place in the oven for a
few minutes to brown. Fasten a paper frill
round the knuckli^.
If the ham is to be served hot, lift it from the
water when cooked, and remove the skin. Then
place it in the oven for a few minutes, and brush
it over with liquid glaze. Serve with greens,
Brussels sprouts, spinaoh, green peas, &c.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
173
Ingredients -
\ Pig's Head (salted).
2 Onions.
6 Cloves.
1 dozen Peppercorns.
1 blade of Mace.
Brawn
A sprig of Parsley, Thyme
and Jilarjoram.
1 Carrot.
1 Turnip.
Cold Water.
Method. - Wash the head thoroughly in tepid
water, and remove all gristle and soft parts from
the nostrils. Rinse well in cold water. Then
put the head into a large saucepan with sufficient
cold water to cover it, and bring slowly to the
boil. Skim well, and add the vegetables cut in
pieces and the herbs tied in a piece of muslin.
Simmer slowly from three to four hours until the
flesh will leave the bones easily, and skim when
necessary. Then strain the liquid into a large
basin and put the head on a dish. Next day cut
the tongue and the meat from the head into small
pieces, removing gristle and any superfluous fat.
Skim all fat carefully off the stock, and return
it to a saucepan with the bones from the head.
Boil quickly until reduced to about half the
quantity, and then strain over the meat. Let
this stand until slightly cooled, add more
seasoning if necessary, and then pour into
wetted moulds. Set aside until cold, and when
firm, turn out on a dish and garnish with parsley.
Notes.- li Uked, the moulds may first be
decorated with sUces of hard-boiled eggs.
The feet may be cooked along with the head
if wished.
Breast of Veal Stuffed and Roasted
Ingredients -
3 or 4 lbs. Breast of Veal.
6 oz. Bread-crumbs.
3 oz. chopped ,Suet.
i Lemon Rind Grated.
2 oz. Cooked Ham.
Seasoning.
1 des.-sp. chopped Parsley.
lEgg.
A little Milk.
Method.- Remove all the bones from the veal
(these rnust be kept for making stock of soup).
Then trim and season the meat and lay it out
on a board with the skin side underneath
Prepare the stuffing as for roast shoulder of
mutton (p. 170), adding to it the ham chopped
finely. Spread the stuffing over the veal, roll
up and fasten securely with a needle and fine
string Then flour the meat and roast it care-
fully, basting well. When ready Hft the roll on
to a hot dish, remove the sewing, and pour thin
tomato or brown sauce round. Garnish with
rolls of bacon (p. 174).
Ingredients
Steamed Veal with Celery
2 lbs. Fleshy Veal.
\ lb. Bacon.
A few Parsley Stalks.
1 Onion.
1 Head Celery.
Seasoning.
Parsley Sauce.
Method. - Trim the veal and bind it up with
a piece of tape. Put it into a double cooker with
the bacon cut in strips, the parsley stalks, and
seasoning. Use the white part only of the
celery, cut it in small pieces and the onion in
quarters. Add these to the veal and steam
slowly for two hours or until the veal is tender.
Lift it on to a hot dish, remove the tape, place the
vegetables, &c., round and smother in parsley
sauce made with white stock.
Jellied Veal
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Grated Bind of half Lemon.
Pepper and Salt.
Ingredients -
1 lb. Fillet of Veal.
\ lb. fat Bacon.
1 gill Jelly Stock.
2 hard-boiled Eggs.
Method. - Take a plain tin mould and decorate
the foot of it with a few slices of hard-boiled egg
and a little chopped parsley. Wipe the veal
with a damp cloth, remove all skin and bone,
and cut it into small neat pieces. Remove all
skin and gristle from the bacon, and cut it into
narrow strips. Mix the veal and bacon together
on a plate with the remainder of the eggs cut in
pieces and the seasonings. Pack this mixture
loosely into the prepared mould, melt the stock,
and pour it over. Should the stock not be
sufficiently stiff, dissolve a little gelatine in it
first, and if no stock is at hand, boil the bones
from the veal for about half-an-hotir with a
little water and small pieces of flavouring
vegetables, then strain. Fill up the mould with
the stock, cover over with greased paper, and
bake in a slow oven for two hours, iviien
ready, the veal should feel quite tender when
it is tested with a fork. If necessary, fill up the
mould with a httle more stock, and set aside to
cool. When wanted, turn out on a dish, and
garnish with parsley or some fresh salad.
Note. - Rabbit may be prepared in the sajne
way.
Veal Olives
Prepare and cook in the same way as beef
oUves, adding a Uttle chopped ham and grated
lemon rind to the stuffing.
Ingredients-
Veal Cream
{Fr. Creme de Veau)
} lb. Fillet of Veal.
1 oz. raw Ham.
1 gill thick Cream.
1 gill Bechamel or Velout^
Sauce.
2 Eggs.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
Grated rind of J Lemon.
Velout^ or Bechamel Sauce, Green Peas.
Method. - Wipe the veal, cut it in small pieces,
and put it twice through a mincing machine with
the ham. Put this minced meat into a mortar,
add the eggs, sauce, and seasonings. Pound all
well together, and rub through a fine wire sieve.
Put this puree into a basin. \Vhip the cream
lightly and mix it with the pvu-6e of meat. Pour
174
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
all into s well-greaeed mould or moulds. The
moulds must not be more than three-quarters
filled. Place them in a saucepan resting on a
double fold of kitchen-paper. Pour in enough
hot water to come half-way up the sides, cover
with greastxl paper, and steam very slowly until
the cream faels firm to the touch. About three-
quarters of an hour if a large mould, from fifteen
to twenty minutes if the moulds are small.
Turn out carefully, and coat with bechamel
or velout^ sauce, and garnish with green peas.
Note. - ^This may be made richer and of a more
delicate texture byusing 1 J pint of cream with the
purfe of meat, and no sauce and no eggs. Or,
plainer, by using i pint sauce, one or two eggs,
and no cream. The mixture, especially when
containing much cream, must be steemied very
gently.
Veal and Ham Cutlets
{Fr. Cotelettes de Veau)
Bread-crumbs.
Fat for frying.
A Border of Potatoes
Spinach.
Brown or Tomato Sauce.
Slices of Lemon.
IngredietUa -
) lb. Fillet of VeaL
3 or 4 oz. of Bacon.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
lEgg.
A little grated Lemon Bind
and Lemon Juice.
1 tea-sp. melted Butter.
Method. - Have the veal cut in a slice about
Linch thick. Wipe it with a damp cloth, and
at it slightly with a wetted cutlet bat or rolling-
pin. Trim it into nice oblong-shaped pieces, free
from skin and bone, and squeeze a very Uttle
lemon juice over each. Beat up the egg on a
plate, and add to it pepper, salt, the chopped
parsley, grated lemon rind, and melted butter.
(The butter is added to soften the veal.) Brush
over each of the cutlets with this, and then
bread-crumb them. Press the bread-cn.imbs
well on with a knife, re-shape the cutlets neatly,
and lay them on a tin or dish with double paper
imdor them ready for frying.
Have the bacon cut in thin slices, remove all
rind and rust from it, and roll it up into neat
little rolls. Place these on a skewer, and cook
them on a tin in the oven for about ten minutes
while tJi9 cutlets are being fried.
To Cook the Cutlela. - Fry in a small quantity
of fat in a frying-pan (see p. 166). They will
take from ten to twelve minutes to cook and
should bo well done. Drain on paper.
To Serve the Cutlets. - Make ready a border of
spinach or potatoes on a hot dish, and dish the
cutlets along the top, one leaning against the
other. Pour some brown or tomato sauce round,
and place the rolls of bacon in the centre or
round the sides. Cut one or two thin slices of
lemon, quarter these slices, and place a piece of
lemon between eskch cutlet.
Note. - Tlie cutlets may be served without the
border of potatoes or spinach, and green peas
or any other suitable vegetable used as a gsuTiish.
Stewed Veal Kidney
(Fr. Bognons de Veau Saut^)
Ingredients -
1 cupful of good Stock or
Gravy.
3 Veal Kidneys.
2 oz. Butter.
1 small Onion.
Pepper and Salt.
1 oz. Flour.
Method. - Remove the skin from the kidneys,
and cut them in halves lengthwise. Take out
the white nerve from the centre, and cut each
half into thin slices. Melt the butter in a small
stewpan, add the onion finely chopped, and
brown it slightly. Then put in the kidneys,
pepper and salt, and stir briskly over the fire
untU the pieces are aU equally coloured. Sprinkle
with the flour and mix well. Add the stock and
wine, and stir until boiUng. A few muslirooms,
sliced and cooked with the kidney, will be an im-
provement. Cook slowly from fifteen to twenty
minutes, and add the lemon juice and parsley
at the last.
Calf's Liver Sautd
(Fr. Foie de Veau Saut6)
Ingredients -
1} lbs. Calf s Liver.
1 table-spoonful Flour.
1 teacupful Stock or Gravy.
Pepper and Salt.
A little finely chopped
Parsley.
Method. - Wash the Uver well in several waters
and dry it in a cloth. Then cut it in slices
1 inch in thickness, and coat these very lightly
with flour. Melt the butter in a frjang or saut6
pan. When quite hot, put in the liver, and fry
gently for twenty minutes, until the liver is a
nice brown colour and thoroughly cooked. Lift
the pieces on to a plate, and pour away all fat
from the pan. Pour in the gravy, add the
mushrooms cut in halves and the seasonings,
and stir for a few minutes. Then return the
liver, and cook it for five minutes in the sauce.
Dish neatly with the gravy poured over and
round, and sprinkle with a little finely chopped
parsley.
Note. - Tlio mushrooms may be omitted.
Calves' Brains In Saace
(Fr. Cervelles de Veau en Sauce)
Ingredients -
2 or 8 sets Calves' Brains.
White Stock.
I oz. Butter.
I oz. Flour.
Pepper and Salt.
2 yolks of Eggs.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
6 rounds of Fried Bread.
Method. - The brains must be very fresh.
Blanch them and remove any clots of blood and
fibre. Put them into a saucepan with white
stock to cover and simmer gently for twenty
minutes; then strain. Make a sauce with the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
175
butter, flour, and about half a pint stock from
the brains. When well cooked, add the yolks
of eggs, seasoning, and lemon juice. Reheat the
brains in this, but do not boil again. Serve on
small rounds of fried or toasted bread and
garnish with chopped parsley.
Note. - Sheep's brains may be cooked in the
same way.
Calf's Feet with Poulette Sauce
{Fr. Pieds de Veau a la Poulette)
Ingredients -
2 Calf's Feet. I 1 pint Poulette Sauce.
2 plDts White Stock. I
Method. - Put the feet into a saucepan with
cold water to cover them, bring to boiling point,
and throw the water away. Rinse well and
return the feet to the saucepan with enough
light stock or meat boilings to cover them, and
simmer gently for four hoiu-s. Then remove the
bones, and press the feet between two dishes
with a weight on the top untU they are cold.
Cut them into small neat pieces and simmer for
five minutes in the sauce. Serve garnished with
crolitons of toast.
Braised Sweetbreads
(Fr. Ris de Veau, braisee)
Ingredients -
1 pair Calf 8 Sweetbreads. Jpint Browu Sauce.
1 Carrot. A Croiiton of Bread.
1 Turnip. Chopped Parsley.
1 Onion. J pint Stock.
Method - To Prepare the Sweetbreads. - Wash
them well and then soak in salt and water for
at least half-an-hour. Then rinse and put it
into a saucepan with enough cold water to cover.
Bring to the boil and pour the water away.
Throw the sweetbread again into cold water,
and trim off all fat with the fingers. Tlien press
between two plates until cold.
To Braise the Stveetbreads. - Prepare the
vegetables, cut them in rough pieces, and put
them into a stewpan. Pour the stock over and
warm slightly. Then lay the sweetbread on
the top, cover with greased paper, and braise
carefully from thirty to forty minutes. When
the sweetbread is tender, lift it out and place it
on a croflton of fried bread in an entree dish.
Brush it over with liquid glaze, and pour the
sauce round. Garnish with, button mushrooms
which have been cut in halves and warmed in a
little stock. Sprinkle some very finely chopped
parsley over.
Sweetbreads " en Casserole "
(Fr. Ris de Veau en Casserole)
Ingredients -
1 pair Calf 8 Sweetbreads.
White Stock.
A Bunch of Herbs.
1 Onion.
1 oz. Butter.
} oz. Flour.
A little Cream.
Seasoning.
Method. - Prepare the sweetbreads as in last
recipe, and, after pressing, cut them in neat
pieces. Put them into an earthenware sauce-
pan with white stock to cover them, an onion
cut in pieces, and a small bunch of herbs. Simmer
for three-quarters of an hoiir or until tender ;
then strain and make a sauce with the butter,
flour, and stock. Return the sweetbread with-
out the herbs, &c., and stew a few minutes
longer. Season to taste and add cream at the
last. Serve in the saucepan.
Galantine of Veal
(Fr. Galantine de Veau)
Ingredients -
3 or 4 lbs. Breast of Veal. lb. Ham or Tongue.
1 lb. Sausage Meat. 2 hard-boiled Eggs.
Seasoning. TrufileB.
Glaze. Aspic Jelly.
Method. - Prepare the meat as in breast of
veal stuffed and roasted. Season the sausage
meat rather highly and spread it on the top.
Cut the hard-boiled eggs in pieces lengthwise
and the tongue or ham in strips, and place these
in rows on the top of the sausage meat. Two or
three truffles and a few pistachio nuts may also
be put in if wished. Roll and sew up the meat,
then tie it in a cloth very firmly and in the shape
of a bolster.
Put the bones from the veal into a saucepan
with stock or water to cover them and a few
pieces of flavouring vegetable. Bring this to
the boil, put in the roll of veal, and cook slowly
from two and a half to three hours.
When done, lift it out, and if, owing to the
shrinking of the meat, the cloth looks wrinkled,
take it off and re-roll it, and press till cold
between two boards or dishes with a three or
four poimd weight on the top.
When cold, take the galantine out of its cloth,
and trim the ends. Brush over the surface with
a little melted glaze, and apply two coatings if
necessary.
Serve garnished with aspic jelly or some nice
salad.
GAME AND POULTRY
To Roast a Fowl
{Fr. Poulet Rdti)
Have the fowl trussed for roasting, which
may be done either before the fire or in the
oven. In either case the breast of the fowl
should be covered over -with a piece of greased
paper or some slices of bacon, to prevent it from
taking too high a colour. Keep the fowl well
basted with butter, dripping, or bacon gra^'y.
The time will depend upon the age and size of
the fowl ; a chicken will take three-quarters of
an hour, a fowl from one to one and a half hours
to cook.
When the fowl is ready lift it on to a hot dish,
remove any trussing string or paper and pour
176
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
away any grease that may nin on the disli.
GamiBh with water-crees seasoned with lemon
juice and salt.
A nice gra\'y should always be served \\-ith the
fowl. Pour away the fat from the tin in which
it W£i8 roasted and add one cupful of stock or
water. Stir over the fire mitil boiling, rubbing
down any browning from the tin. Season nicely
and serve in a sauce-boat. Breewi sauce may also
be served with the fowl.
The best accompaniment to roast poultry is
a well-made salad, although many people still
prefer hot vegetables.
Not€. - Instead of the above sauce, chestnut
or muslu-oom sauce maj- be used.
It is no longer the fashion to stuff a fowl with
veal force-meat, but it may be filled with shelled
chestnuts before cooking.
To Steam a Fowl
First rub the fowl over with a piece of cut
lemon to keep it wliite, sprinkle it with salt
and wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper. Put
it into a double saucepan or steamer (see p. 148)
and cook from one and a half to two and a half
hours according to age and size.
When sufficiently tender lift it on to a hot
dish and remove the paper and string. Mask
it with parsley, oyster, bechamel, egg, or celery
sauce and garnish with little rolls of bacon or
hard-boiled egg. There should be sufficient
sauce to coat the fowl and to cover the flat part
of the dish.
Method. - The colour of the fowl for this dish
should be very white, therefore it is sometimes
blanched before cooking it, although this cannot
be said to improve the flavour. Cut the fowl
into neat joints, remo^nng as much of the skin
as possible. Warm two ounces of butter in a
stewpan. Add the fowl, salt, and pepper.
Colour for a few minutes over the fire, but do
not let it take a deep tint. Add the flour, and
one pint of hot white stock. Stir until boiling
to prevent lumps ; add the herbs, onions, one of
them pierced vfiih cloves, and the wine. Put on
the lid, and simmer gently for one hour at least,
or until the fowl is tender. The sauce should
have reduced one -half. Then strain and return
sauce to saucepan. Add the yolks of eggs,
lemon juice, fresh butter, and parsley, but do
Ciicumber, Radishes,
Tomatoes.
Aspic Jelly.
not boil again. Serve garnished with crodtons
of fried bread.
Notes. - This may be cooked in an earthen-
ware pot and served en casserole.
Rice cooked in stock may be served separately.
Chaudfroid of Chicken
(Fr. Chaudfroid de Volaille)
Ingredients -
Cooked Chicken.
White Chaudfroid Sauce.
Mayonnaise Sauce.
Some Green Salad.
Decorations (see below).
Method. - Cut the chicken into neat joints,
removing as much of the skin as possible. Place
the joints on a draining tray or on a dish tvu-ned
upside down, and coat them all carefully with
white chaudfroid sauce (see p. 142). Give them
two coatings of the sauce if necessary. Then
decorate the joints lightly and tastefully. For
this may be used small fancy shapes of tongue
or truffle, finely chopped truffle or ham, tiny
sprigs of chervil, chopped parsley or yolk of
egg, fancy shapes of the red part of radishes,
tiny pieces of tomato, &c. Do not overload the
joints -with decoration, and use colours that will
blend well together. After decorating, run a
little aspic jelly over each joint, so as to give
them a glossy appearance, then let them set.
Slired some green salad, mix it with any re-
mains of decoration and a little chopped cliicken
(any trimmings will do for this), and moisten
with mayonnaise sauce. Pile this in the centre
of an entree dish, and arrange the joints of
chicken round it. Decorate with chopped aspio
jelly, more salad, and thin slices of radish or
cucumber.
Mayonnaise of Chicken
(Fr. Mayonnaise de Poulet)
Prepare in the same way as chaudfroid of
chicken, using mayonnaise sauce instead of
chaudfroid sauce.
Aspic Jelly
(Fr. Aspic)
Ingredients -
li pints Water or Meat
Stock.
1 pill Sherry.
1 gill assorted Vinegars.
2 oz. Sheet Gelatine.
Rind of 1 Lemon.
Juice of 2 Lemons.
A small piece of Carrot.
A small piece of Turnip.
1 stick of Celerj' or tea-sp.
Celery Seed.
Method. - Take a clean lined saucepan and
rinse it out with hot water. Put into it the
1 tea-spoonful Salt.
A sprig of Thyme.
A sprig of Marjoram.
A few Parsley Stalks.
2 or 3 Bay Leaves.
1 blade of Mace.
The whites and shells of
2 Eggs.
20 White Peppercorns.
6 Cloves.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
177
water or stock (which must be quite free from
grease) and the gelatine cut in small pieces.
If the stock is a jelly, less gelatine may be used.
Add the vegetables, prepared and cut in pieces,
the herbs tied together with fine string or thread,
and the smaller seasonings tied in a piece of
musUn. Add also the sherry, whites of eggs,
and the shells washed and crushed. To measure
the vinegars, take half a giU bro^vn malt vinegar,
nearly half a gill of Tarragon vinegar, and make
up the remainder with ChiU vinegar. Or less
brown vinegar may be used and some spiced
vinegar added. Add the vinegars to the other
ingredients, with the salt, lemon rind peeled off
very tliinly, and the juice strained. Whisk all
together over the fire until a good froth rises
and the jelly is almost boiling. Allow it to boil
up as high as it will without boiling over, then
draw the saucepan gently to one side of the fire,
when the jelly will keep warm without simmering,
and cover it with a lid or plate. Allow it to
stand for ten minutes, and then strain.
Any kind of cloth will do for straining the
jelly, as long as it is not too close in texture and
is kept for the purpose. Tie the cloth to a jolly-
stand, or to the four legs of a kitchen-chair turned
upside down, letting it sink in the middle so as
to form a bag. Have ready two basins and some
boiling water. Poiir the water through the
cloth into one of the basins, so as to heat it
thoroughly ; then put the dry basin underneath
and pour away the water. Remove the lid from
the pan, lift it carefully over without shaking it,
and pour all the contents into the cloth. The
jelly will not be clear the first time, as it is shaken
up in pouring through, s^ change the basin, and
pour what has run through back again into the
cloth. Repeat this several times, until the jelly
runs through perfectly clear. Cover the stand
over with a piece of flannel or blanket, and let
it remain until all the jelly has run through.
Chicken a la Cardinal
(Fr. Poulet a la Cardinal)
Ingredients-
1 Chicken.
Some White Stock.
1 gill Button Mushrooms.
J pint thick Tomato Sauce
(p. 145).
1 dozen Cherry Tomatoes.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Cut the cliicken into neat joints, and
put it into a stewpan with sufficient white stock
to cover it. Simmer gently from one to one and
a half hom-s until the chicken is quite tender.
Add the tomato sauce, which must bo very thick,
and cook a few minutes longer. Then lift out
the pieces of chicken, and arrange them neatly
on a hot dish. Reduce the sauce, if necessary,
until it is thick enough to coat the pieces of
chicken, and then strain it over the joints.
Garnish the dish with small cherry tomatoes
which have been cooked in the oven but not
broken, and button mushrooms saut6d in a
little butter.
Carried Fowl
(Fr. Poulet en Cari)
Ingredients -
1 tender FowL | 1 pint Stock.
IJ oz. Butter. 1 gill Cream.
1 Onion. Juice of J Lemon
1 tea-ap. Curry Powder Boiled Rice.
A pinch of Salt
Method. - Cut the fowl into neat joints, re-
moving as much of the skin as possible. Melt
the butter in an earthenwai'e stewpan, and
colour in it the onion, sliced or chopped. Add
the fowl, curry powder, and salt, and colour
gently over a moderate fire, turning the pieces
frequently. Then add the stock, and cook for
one hour at least, until the fowl is tender and the
liquid is reduced to one-third. Add the cream,
simmer a few minutes longer, and add the lemon
juice last. Serve en casserole and hand boiled
rice separately.
Boast Dock
(Fr. Caneton R6ti)
Fill the duck with apples peeled and cut in
quarters and a few French plums which have
been soaked and stoned. Roast in the same
way as a fowl. It will take from three-quarters
of an hour to one hour.
Serve with brown gravy and salad.
Note. - Sage and onion stuffing the same as
for roast goose may be used instead of the above.
Roast Goose
{Fr. Oie R6tie)
Roast in the same way as a fowl. The time
required will be from two to two and a half hours.
The following stuffing may be put inside : -
Sage and Onion Stuffing
i Spanish onions.
8 or 10 Sage Leaves.
lEgg.
J lb. Bread-crumbs.
Liver from the Goose.
Seasoning.
Parboil and chop the onions, add the bread-
crumbs, sage leaves finely powdered, and Uver
boiled and chopped. Mis all together, season
well, and add the egg slightly beaten.
Apple sauce and brown gravy should be
served separately.
Note. - The goose may be stuSed with apples
instead of the above stuffing. (See Roast Duck.)
Apple sauce would not then be required.
Partridge Braised with Cabbage
(Fr. Perdrix aux Choux)
Ingredients-
1 Partridge. 2 Small Cabbages.
Slices of Fat Bacon. 1 Carrot.
A bunch of Herbs. 1 Onion.
Seasoning. Gravy of Stock.
Method. - Wash and parboil the cabbages,
M
178
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
then drain them well and cut into quarters.
Place some shces of bacon over the breast of
the partridge and tie it up. Lay some more
bacon at the foot of a stewpan, the carrot and
onion cut in slices, and a bunch of herbs. Place
the bird on the top of this, and put the pieces of
cabbage round. Season well and add enough
stock or gra\'y to half cover the contents. Put
on the lid and stew slowly for at least one hour or
imtil the partridge is tender. Then lift it out,
cut it in quarters, and keep it warm. Strain the
cabbage and place it in the centre of a hot dish.
Arrange the joints of partridge on the top and
garnish \rith the carrot and pieces of bacon.
Remove the stock and pour it round the dish.
Note. - Small sUces of cooked sausage are
sometimes added to this dish.
Broiled Partridge
Butter.
Browned Bread-crumbs.
Potato Chips.
Some good Gravy.
Ingredients -
2ior more young Partridges.
Chopped Parsley.
Chopped Mushrooms.
Chopped Shallot.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Pick and clean the partridges,
cutting them in halves. Leave on the legs, but
cut off the toes. Press the legs well back
towards the wings, and inake the joint as much
in the shape of a cutlet as possible. Mix to-
gether some chopped parsley, mushrooms, and
shallot with pepper and salt, and sprinkle the
pieces of partridge with this mixture, and baste
them with warm butter. Then sprinkle them
with browned bread-crumbs, and broil over a
clear fire for fifteen minutes. Baste again wdth
warm butter, and serve very hot garnished with
potato chips. Serve good gravy or some thin
brown sauco separately.
Roast Turkey
{Fr. Dinde Rotie)
This can be cooked in the same way as roast
fowl. The time will depend upon the size of
the bird ; a small turkey will require one and a
half to two hours and a large- bird from two and
a half to three hours. A turkey is unually
stuffed before being roasted, and the following
makes a nice force-meat : -
Take one pound sausage meat (pork preferred)
and add to it six ounces cooked and sieved chest-
nuts and the liver of the tiu-kcy parboiled and
chopped. Season rather highly, and put this
into the crop of the turkey before trussing. The
above is sufficient for a medium-sized bird.
Brown gravy and bread sauce should bo
served with the turkey.
If the turkey is to be served cold, brush it
over with liquid glaze after roasting. A little
chopped aspic and some fresh salad may be used
to decorate it.
Ingredients -
Remains of Game.
I pint Gravy or Stock.
1 glass Port Wine.
2 or 3 Shallots.
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
Salmi ol Game
The Rind of 1 Orange.
The juice of * Lemon.
A pinch of Cayenne.
A sprig of Thyme.
Croutons of Fried Bread.
Method. - Cut the game into neat pieces, and
put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan.
Add the gravy or stock to the bones in the pan,
also the shallots, orange rind peeled very thinly,
and thyme. Simmer this for at least half-an-
hour, and then strain. Melt the butter in a
saucepan, and when it is slightly brown stir in
the flour, add the strained stock, and stir again
vmtil boiling. Add the wine, lemon juice, and
seasoning to taste. Warm the pieces of game
thoroughly in this, and skim wcU. Serve
garnished with some pretty croutons of fried
bread.
Stewed Rabbit with Brown Sauce
Ingredients -
1 Rabbit.
2 oz. Ham.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
1 oz. Flour.
2 Onions.
1 pint Stock or Water.
i table-spoonful Ketchup.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Clean and wash the rabbit well.
Dry and cut it into neat joints. Melt the drip-
ping or butter in a saucepan. Coat the pieces of
rabbit with flom*, and brown them in the fat.
Then add the ham cut in small pieces and the
onioias in sUces, sprinkle with pepper and salt,
pvit the lid on the pan, and cook slowly for ten
minutes. Then add the stock and ketchup,
mix well and cover again with the lid. Allow
the stew to simmer slowly from ono and a half to
two hours, or until the rabbit is quite tender.
Remove any grease before serving, and dish
very neatly on a hot dish.
Stewed Rabbit with Onion Sauce
Ingredients -
1 Rabbit. li oz. Butter,"
3 Spanish Onions.
2 oz. Ham.
Seasoning.
1 oz. Flour.
A small bunch of Herbs.
Croutons of Fried Bread.
Method. - Prepare the rabbit as in last recipe
and put it into a saucepan v^'ith cold water to
cover it. Bring to the boil, pour the water away,
and rinso both rabbit and saucepan. This is
to whiten the rabbit. Cover again with warm
water or white stock, add the seasoning, herbs,
ham cut in small pieces, and onions scalded and
cut in quarters. Put the lid on the pan and
cook slowly for one and a half hours or longer
if necessary. Strain and keep the gravy and
ham. Place the pieces of rabbit on a dish and
keep them warm. Make a sauce with the
butter, flour, and gravy from rabbit. Add the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
179
onions finely chopped, season nicely, and pour
this over the rabbit. Decorate with small
croutons of fried bread.
Juice of J Lemon.
1 dessert-sp. Arrowroot.
1 pint good Stock or Gravy.
1 table-spoonful Red-Cur-
rant Jelly.
Pepper and Salt.
Force-meat Balls.
Method. - Cut the hare into neat pieces, not
larger than the size of an egg, and wipe the
pieces with a cloth. Cut the bacon into small
pieces, and put it into a saucepan. Fry it for
a few minutes, and then add the hare, onion,
herbs, pepper, salt, cinnamon, and bay leaves.
Put the lid on the saucepan, and cook slowly
for twenty minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.
Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the stock, and
add to it the hare with the lemon juice and one
glass of port wine. Stir over the fire imtil
boiling, and then turn the contents of the sauce-
pan into a strong jar. Cover the jar closely,
and cook in a moderate oven from three to four
hoiu-s. It is safer to place the jar in a shallow
tin, and to keep a little boiling water round it.
The time will depend very much upon the kind
of hare used, but the cooking must be continued
until the meat is quite tender. A few minutes
before serving, add the other glass of port wine
and the red-currant j^Uy. Dish the pieces of
hare neatly, and strain the gravy over. Garnish
with force-meat balls (see below).
A pinch of Cayenne.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
2 oz. Butter or chopped
Suet.
1 whole Egg or 2 yolks.
Force-meat Balls
Ingredients -
3 oz. Bread-crumbs.
The grated rind of J Lemon.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 tea-sp. Thyme and Jlar-
joram.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - If the Hver from the hare is good,
it may be added to above ingredients. Cook
it until it is firm, and then grate or chop it
finely. Put it into a basin with all the dry in-
gredients and season nicely. Rub in the butter,
and then bind into a paste with the egg. Form
this mixture into small balls and flour them well.
Fry them in boiling fat until a nice brown colour.
RECHAUFFES OP MEAT
Cold Meat Shape
Ingredients -
i lb. cooked Meat
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley
1 hard-boiled Egg.
ipint light Stock.
} oz. sheet Gelatine.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Tlie meat used for this must be very
tender, as it gets no further cooking. A mixture
J oz. Butter.
A little Stock.
Seasoning.
Browned Bread-crumbs.
of meats such as veal and ham, mutton and
tongue, &c., is best. Trim away all skin and
gristle, and cut the meat in small neat pieces.
Chop the parsley very finely, and cut the hard-
boiled egg in slices. Then rinse out a mould
with cold water, and decorate it at the foot with
some of the egg and parsley. Place in very
lightly a little of the meat with seasoning and
more egg, then more meat, &c., and so on until
all is in. Do not press it down. Dissolve the
gelatine in the stock, and strain it over the meat.
Set aside in a cool place until cold and firm.
When wanted, turn out and garnish with parsley
or salad.
Darioles of Beef
Ingredients -
6 oz. cooked Beef.
2 oz. cooked Potatoes.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
lEgg.
J oz. Bread-crumbs.
Method. - Grease half-a-dozen dariol moulds
or small basins and coat the sides with fine
browned bread-crumbs. Melt the half -ounce of
butter in a small saucepan, add the meat finely
chopped, the potato sieved, and enough stock
to moisten. Mix well, season rather highly
and according to taste, and the egg slightly
beaten. Fill the prepared moulds with this
mixture, sprinkle a few more browned crumbs
on the top and bake in a moderate oven from
fifteen to twenty minutes. Turn out the
darioles on a hot dish and pom* some brown
gravy or thin tomato sauce round.
Note. - Any kind of meat may be used, and
a little ham or tongue used along with the other
meat is always an improvement.
The mixture must not be made too wet or
the darioles will not keep their shape.
Glazed Beef Roll
Ingredients -
J lb. cold Roast Beef.
2 or 3 oz. cooked Ham or
Tongue.
1 dessert-spoonful Ketchup.
A little Stock.
lEgg.
4 oz. Bread-crumbs.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 des.-sp. chopped Pickles.
J tea-sp. Mixed Spice.
Pepper and Salt.
Some Meat Glaze.
Method. - INIince the beef and ham finely,
being careful to remove all skin and gristle.
Put them into a basin, and add the bread-
crumbs, pickles, parsley, spice, pepper, and salt.
Mix well, and bind with the egg well beaten,
the ketchup, and, if necessary, a little stock or
gravy.
Form into a roll, and tie into a pudding cloth
like a roly-poly. Boil this roU in the stock-pot
for half-an-hour, then lift out and press between
two dishes with a weight on the top until cold.
Remove the cloth and brush over with a little
melted glaze. Serve cold garnished with parsley
or salad.
180
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Note. - ^This roll may aJso be made \vith fresh
uncooked meat. It will then require longer time
for cooking, from one and a half to two hours.
Meat Scallops
(Fr. Coquilles do Viande au Gratin)
Ingredients -
\ lb. cooked Beef or ^■eal. i 2 table-spoonfuls browned
1 gill Brown Sauce. Bread-ci-unibs.
1 table-spooDful Sherrj'. I 1 table-sp. grated Cheese.
1 oz. Butter.
Method. - Cut the remains of beef or veal into
small squares, and heat them in the above
proportion of good brown sauce. Season highly,
and add the sherry. Grease six or seven china
shells, and fill them with the mixture, piling it
higher in the centre than at the sides. Sprinkle
over them some browned bread-crumbs and
grated cheese, and place a small piece of butter
on the top. Place them in a hot oven about
ten minutes. Garnish each with a sprig of
parsley and a small shce of lemon.
Potted Chicken or Game
Ingredients -
1 lb. cooked Chicken or I 2 oz. Butter.
Game. | Pepper and Salt.
2 OS. cooked Ham orTongue. I A pinch of Nutmeg.
A little powdered Mace. I
Method. - Take all the meat from the remains
of cold fowl or game, remove all skin and gristle,
and allow butter and ham or tongue in the above
proportion.
Put the meat twice through a mincing machine
and then pound it in a mortar with most of the
butter (previously melted) and season to taste.
Rub the mixture through a fine wire sieve, pack
into little pots, and ran the remainder of the
butter over the top.
Note. - Almost any meat can be potted in the
same way. Two different meats used together
are always tastier than one, and a little ham or
other salted meat is alwaj's an improvement.
If the ham is very fat, some of the butter may be
omitted.
The above seasonings are very simple, and
different condiments may be added to suit
individual taste.
Chicken and Spaghetti
Ingredients -
0 oz. cooked Chicken.
) pint \V'hite Sauce.
2 or 3 oz. cooked Ham.
A little grated Lemon liind.
1 o. ButUr.
i lb. Spaghetti.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
A few Bread-crumbs.
Method. - Chop the chicken and ham finely,
removing all skin and gristle. Cook the spa-
ghetti in boiling water and salt for half-an-hour
or until quito soft, then drain and cut in small
pieces. Make a sauce with one ounce of flour,
one ounce butter, and half a pint milk or chicken
stock, and season with white pepper and salt.
Mix the cliicken and ham in a basin with the
sauce, adding the nutmeg, lemon, and parsley.
Then grease a pie-dish, and put into it alternate
layers of the chicken mixture and the spaghetti.
Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs, put the
butter on in small pieces, and bake in a moderate
oven from twenty to thirty minutes.
Rissoles
Ingredients -
i lb. cold cooked Meat
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
1 gill of Stock.
1 tea-sp. chopped Onion.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley,
A pinch of Nutmeg.
Pepper and Salt.
A little Flour.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
Method - ^Remove all skin and gristle from the
meat, chop it very finely and then weigh it.
Molt the butter in a small saucepan, add the
onion, and cook for a few minutes over the fire.
Then add the flour, and stir until slightly
browned. Pour in the stock, and stir until the
mixture begins to draw away from the sides of
the saucepan. Add the meat and the seasonings
and mix well together. Turn the mixture on to
a plate, smooth it over with a knife, and set
aside to cool. When cold, it will be firm and
easUy shaped. Portion it out into about twelve
equal-sized pieces. Take the pieces one at a
time, and shape them on a board with the aid of
a knife and a little flour. They may be made
into any shape that is liked, such aa cutlet
shapes, balls, small rolls, round cakes, or cone
shapes. The dish will look neater if only ono
or two shapes are used. Use as little flour as
possible in the shaping, just sufficient to keep
the mixture from sticking to the board. Then
egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling
fat until they are a nice brown colour. Drain
well, and serve hot with a dish-paper under them.
Garnish with parsley.
Note. - Any kind of meat may be used for
making rissoles or a mixture of meats. A little
ham or tongue used along with fresh meat is a
great improvement.
Scrambled Mutton and Tomatoes
Ingredients -
1 tca-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 or 2 slices of Toast
Pepper and Salt.
\ lb. cold Mutton.
2 Eggs.
1 cupful Tomato purie.
1 oz. Butter or Dripping.
Method. - Remove all skin and gristle from
the mutton, then weigh it and mince it finely.
Either fresh or tinned tomatoes may be used ;
rub tliem through a hair or wire sieve in order
to get a pur6e. Molt the butter or dripping
in a saucepan, add the pur6e, meat, eggs well
beaten, pepper and salt. Mix quickly over the
fire until thoroughly hot and thick, and taste
to see if sufficiently seewoned. Serve on neat
GUIDE TO COOKERY
181
pieces of toast or fried breswi, and sprinkle each
with a little very finely chopped parsley. Send
to table very hot.
MEAT DISHES WITH PASTRY
Beef Steak and Kidney Pie
{Fr. Pat6 de Bifteck et Rognons)
Ingredients -
Pepper and Salt.
i table-sp. Stock or Water.
J tea-sp. Jamaica Pepper.
Flaky, Rough-Puff or Drip-
ping Pastry.
Method. - Wipe the meat with a damp cloth
and trim away all skin and any superfluous fat.
Cut it into narrow strips suitable for rolling up.
Split the kidneys, removing the skin and inside
fat, and cut them into sm.all pieces. Mix the
flour, salt and pepper together in a plate.
(The usual proportions of seasoning to allow are
one tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful
of pepper to each pound of meat, but this must
vsu'y according to taste. The flour is used to
thicken the gravy, and this should be omitted
in a pie which is to be served cold.) Dip the
pieces of meat and kidney into this mixture,
coating them well. Roll up the strips of steak
with some of the kidney and a small piece of
fat inside each. Place these rolls loosely in a
pie-dish, heaping them rather high in the middle
of the dish to support the crust, and sprinkling
them with the chopped parsley. Remove the
shell from the hard-bo'led egg, and cut it into
six or eight pieces. Arrange these pieces round
the meat and poxir in the ketchup and half the
stock.
Notes. - The best steak should be used for
pies, any other is likely to be tough. It is not a
good plan to partly stew the meat beforehand,
the pie will not have such a good flavour. The
addition of a little potato and onion, partly
cooked and thinly sUced, is considered by some
people an improvement. The egg might then
be omitted.
To Cover the Pie. - For a plain pie, to be eaten
hot, dripping crust (p. 164) does very well ; but
for a superior pie, either rough-puff or flaky
pastry is more suitable. The quantity made
with half a pound of floui' will be about the
requisite ajnount for the above proportion of
meat.
Roll out the pastry into an oblong shape and
from one-quarter to three-eighthsof an inchthick.
From tlais cut a strip about one and a half inches
in width or rather wider than the rim of the
pie-dish. Then wet the rim of the dish with
cold water, and lay this"^ neatly on. Where a
join is made wet one of the edges to make them
stick. Do not overlap the pieces or one part of
the edge will be thicker than the other. Wet
this strip of pastry with cold water and lay on
the larger piece of pastry to cover the top of the
pie. Press this piece of pastry well on, easing
it in shghtly and not dragging it over the dish.
With a sharp knife cut off the larger pieces of
pastry hanging round the dish, then hold the
dish up in the left hand and with the right trim
neatly round the edges. When trimming take
short quick strokes, always cutting away from
you, inclining the knife in such a way that the
edges of the crust will have a considerable out-
ward slope. Then flour the fii-st finger of the
left hand and keep pressing the back of it down
on the rim of the pastry, while with the back of
a floured knife you tap the edges smartly all
round, making them look Uke the leaves of a
book. To scallop them, draw the back of the
knife sharply across them at intervals of about
half an inch, drawing the knife upwards and
inwards, while with the thiunb of the left hand
you keep pressing the pastry just in front of the
knife downwards and outwards. Make a hole
in the centre of the pie with a knife and briash
over with beaten egg, omitting the edges. Roll
out the trimmings of the pastry and cut out
leaves for decorating. To do this in a simple
way, cut the pastry into strips about one and a
half inches wide. Then divide these obliquely
into diamond-shaped pieces. Mark each with
the back of a knife to imitate the veins of a
leaf. From seven to nine of these leaves will
be required for a centre ornament. Radiate
the leaves from the hole in the centre of the
pie, towards the edges of the dish, brush them
over with beaten egg and the pie is ready to
bake. Place it on a baking-tin and put it in a
hot oven for the first half -hour or until the crust
is risen and set and of a brown colour. Then
move it to a cooler part, so that the meat may
cook more slowly. As soon as the crust is dark
enough, it should be kept covered with a double
piece of paper until the pie is cooked. The time
required will be from one to one and a half hoiu-s
or longer if the meat seems tough or the pie is
a large one. It may be tested by running in a
skewer through the hole in the top. As soon
as the pie is done remove it from the oven.
Wipe the dish with a wet cloth and garnish with
parsley before serving.
Note. - A few chopped mvislirooms or an oyster
may be rolled up inside the meat instead of the
kidney. A little finely chopped shallot may bo
added if desired.
Beef Steak and Kidney Pudding
Ingredients -
1 lb. Beef (cut thin).
2 Sheep's Kidneys.
1 dessert -spoonful Flour.
Pepper and Salt
3 table-sp. Stock or Water.
1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.
Method. - Prepare the meat according to
directions given in previous recipe. Take a
pint basin and line it with suet crust according
to directions given on p. 164. Fill up with the
182
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
prepared meat and poiir in the keteliup and
stock. The contents should be rather heaped
in the middle, as they slirink in cooking. Roll
out the trimmings of pastry into a round shape
to form a cover. Double down the edge of the
pastry which lines the basin over the meat and
wot it with cold water. Place the round piece
on the top and press the edges well together.
Cover with a scalded and floured pudding cloth.
Plunge the pudding into a basin of f£ist-boiling
water and boil quickly for at least two and a half
hours or steam for tliree hours. When ready,
lift out and let it stand for a minute or two.
Tlien remove the cloth and turn the pudding
carefully out on to a hot dish. Make a slit in
the pastry at the side to let the gravy run over
the dish.
Note. - Larger puddings may be served in
the bsisin in which they are made. Heat a table-
napkin, fold it neatly and pin it round the basin.
Chopped muslirooms or onions may be used for
flavouring. The pudding may be baked instead
of boiled.
Chicken and Ham Pie (Cold)
{Fr. Pate Froid de Volaille)
Ingredients -
1 tender Chicken.
2 Hard-boiled Eggs.
2 oz. Earn or Bacon.
A pinch of gi-ound Mace.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
A little grated Lemon Rind
and Lemon Juice.
Pepper and Salt.
Some Jelly Stock.
Rough- Puff or Flaky Pastry.
Method. - Cut the chicken into neat pieces
free from bone and with as little skin as possible.
Season it with pepper, salt, and parsley, and add
the ham cut in small pieces. Take a pie-dish
just large enough to hold the meat, rinse it out
with cold water and leave it wet. Then decorate
the foot with sections of hard-boiled egg and
chopped parsley. Fill up with the chicken and
ham, &c., and press the meat well down, making
it level with the top of the dish. Pour in half
a gill of white stock, or just enough to moisten
the meat. Cover the pie according to directions
given on p. 181, but put on no decorations.
Bake in the oven from one to one and a half
hours, or until the chicken feels tender when it
is tested with a skewer. When roa the pie from the oven and pour in as much
stock (that will jelly when cold) as the pie will
hold. If the stock is not stiff enough a little
gelatine must first be dissolved in it. Tlien set
the pie away until it is quite cold. To serve -
remove the pastry frf)m the top and place it
upside down on a clean dish, and turn the moat
par^ carefully out on the top of this. If it
is inclined to stick, dip the dish into hot water
for a moment, and then loosen round the edges.
Garnish round the sides of the pie with some
nice salad and servo cold.
Note. - This makes a nice supper or luncheon
dish.
IngredicrUs-
2 Pigeons.
I lb. best Steak.
1 tea-spoonful Ketchup.
1 gill of Stock.
1 hard-boiled Egg.
Pigeon Pie
(Fr. Pat6 de Pigeons)
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
1 oz. Butter.
1 dessert-spoonful Flour.
Pepper and Salt.
Rout,h-Pufr or Flaky I'astry
Method. - Draw and singe the pigeons, then
cut them in quarters and wipe or wash the
pieces. Reserve the feet for decorating the
pie. Remove as much of the skin from the
joints as possible, and trim away any parts
which do not look eatable. Wipe the beef with
a damp cloth, trim off the skin, and cut it into
small neat pieces. Put the flour on a plate and
clip the pieces of pigeon and beef into it, coating
them well. Molt the butter or dripping in a
frying-pan ; when sinoking hot put in the beef
and pigeons and fry them until nicely browned.
Lift out and arrange in a pie-dish, sprinkling
with pepper, salt, and the chopped parsley.
Pile the meat liigh in the centre and put the
egg cut in small pieces round the sides. Pour
in the ketchup and half the stock and cover the
pie according to directions given for beef-steak
and kidney pie (p. 181). Brush the pie over
with beaten egg and place it on a baking-tin.
Bake in a good oven for two hours or until the
contents feel tender when tested with a skewer.
When ready, lift from the oven and pour in the
rest of the stock through the hole in the top by
means of a filler. Wipe the dish with a damp
cloth. Scald the pigeon feet in some boiling
water and scrape off the outside skin. Stand
these up in the hole at the top of the pie and
garnish with some sprigs of parsley.
A^ote. - Be particular to choose very tender
pigeons for making pies. A little bacon is
sometimes put in to give flavoiu". Partridge
pie can be made in the same way.
Roman Pio
Ingredients -
6 oz. cooked Aleat.
3 oz. cooked Macaroni.
3 oz. grated Cheese.
1 gill Stock or Cream.
1 parboiled Onion.
1 tea-sp. made Mustard.
Pepper and Salt.
1 table-spoonful crushed
Vermicelli.
1 gill Brown or Tomato
Sauce.
Dripping Crust.
Method. - White moat, such as rabbit, mutton,
chicken, or veal is the best to use for this pie.
Remove from it all sldn, bone, and gristle and
chop it finely. Put it into a basin with the
macaroni, cut in small pieces, and add the onion
finely chopped and grated cheese. Season with
pepper, salt, and mustard, pour in the cream or
stock and mix well together.
To Make the Pie. - Take a pint basin and grease
it with butter or dripping. Put in the crushed
vermicelli and coat the sides of the basin with
GUIDE TO COOKERY
183
this. Line the basin with some dripping crust
rolled out thinly. Fill up with the meat mixture
and put a cover of pastry on the top. Make a
small hole in the top of the pie and place it on a
baking-sheet. Bake in a good oven for one hour.
When ready, remove from the oven and turn out
on a hot dish. Heat some brown or tomato
sauce and pour it round.
Note. - Bread-crumbs may be used instead
of vermicelli. The onion may be omitted.
Sweetbread Patties
(Ft, Petits Pites de Ris de Veau)
Ingredients -
3 oz. cooked Sweetbread.
1 oz. cooked Ham or Tongue.
1 table-spoonful good White
Sauce.
A little grated Lemon Kind.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
2 table-spoonfuls Cream.
Pepper and Salt.
Rough-Puff or Puff Pastry.
Method. - To Make the Mixture. - Chop the
sweetbi-ead and ham or tongue very finely. Put
them into a small saucepan with the sauce and
stir over the fire until well mixed. Season to
taste with pepper, salt, grated lemon rind,
lemon juice, and a pinch of nutmeg. Pour in
the cream and make the mixture thoroughly hot
before using.
To Make the Patties. - Make the patty cases
according to direction given on p. 165, first or
second method, and when baked fill them with
the mixture. Put on the lids of pastry, and
garnish with sprigs of parsley. Serve on a hot
dish with a d'oyley or dish -paper under them.
Note. - Chicken and ham patties may be made
in the same way, and tongue may be used
instead of ham. The cream may be omitted
and white stock added to make the mixtui'e
sufficiently moist.
Chicken and Ham Croquettes
{Fr. Croquettes de Volaille)
Ingredients -
3 oz. cooked Chicken.
1 oz. cooked Ham.
1 table-spoonful thick good
White Sauce.
Itea-spoonful finely chopped
Parsley.
Scraps of Pastry.
A little grated Lemon Bind.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
1 Truffle chopped.
Pepper and Salt
Egg and Bread-crumbs or
Vermicelli.
Frying Fat.
Method. - First prepare the mixture to put
inside the pastry. Remove all skin and gristle
from the meat, and then weigh it. Chop it
very finely with a knife or put it through a
mincing machine. Then mix in a saucepan
with the white sauce, wliich ought to be fairly
thick, and add the seasoning. Turn the mixtiire
on to a plate to cool.
To Make the Croquettes. - ^Roll out some scraps
of pastry very thinly. The thinness of the
pastry is very important. If left too thick it
will not be properly cooked, and will be most
unwholesome and unpleasant. Stamp the pastry
out into roimds with a plain or fluted cutter
three to four inches in diameter, and with a
small brush wet round the edges with a little
water or beaten egg. Put a small portion of the
mixture into the centre of each piece of pastry,
and double over, pressing the edges well together.
Any other suitable shape may be used instead of
rounds if preferred. Next egg and bread-crmnb
the croquettes, or, instead of bread-cnmibs,
use crushed vermicelli. Fry them a nice brown
colour, but not too quickly, in boihng fat, and
drain well on kitchen-paper. Pile them on a
hot dish with a d'oyley or dish-paper under
them, and garnish with parsley.
Note. - Cooked game, sweetbread or tender
veal may be used instead of the chicken.
These can be baked instead of fried.
EGG AND CHEESE DISHES, SANDWICHES, ETC.
Ingredients-
Eggs in Bread Sauce
i pint Bread Sauce.
2 table-sp. grated Cheese.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Heat the bread sauce and povir it
into a fii-e-proof dish. Slip into it the foiar eggs
without breaking them, sprinkle the grated
cheese over the top, and bake In the oven about
ten minutes. Allow time to cook the eggs and
to brown the cheese.
Note. - The cheese may be omitted and
browned bread-crumbs used in its place.
Eggs a la Cliartres
{Fr. CEufs a la Chartres)
Ingredients-
5 Eggs.
5 round cro 5 rounds of Tongue or Ham-
White Pepper.
2 oz. Butter.
3 or 4 table-spoonfuls Stock.
1 tea-spoonful Meat Glaze.
Salt
Method. - Cut the rounds of bread about three
and a half inches in diameter, and the rounds
of ham or tongue of the same size. Take an
egg-poacher (this is necessary in order to keep
the eggs a good shape), and first pour a little of
184
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the butter (melted) into the cups, then break
the eggs carefully and drop them in ; the yolks
must on no account be broken. Sprinkle lightly
with white pepper and salt. Put the poacher
in hot water, and cook the eggs for four minutes,
or until set without being hard. Meanwliile fry
the croutons a nice brown colour in the rest
of the butter, and warm the slices of tongue
or ham in the stock. Place the croutons on a
hot dish, the shcos of tongue or ham on the
top, and then the eggs. Melt the glaze in the
stock and pour it round.
Eggs en Cocottes
(Fr. CEufs en Cocottes)
Ingredients -
Eggs.
Butter.
A little Cream.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Butter as many small fire-proof
dishes as you wish. Break an egg into each,
sprinkle with pepper and salt, and pour one
tea-spoonful of cream over each egg. Stand the
cases in a tin with enough hot water to come
half-way up the sides, and cook in the oven
about seven minutes, or until the eggs are set.
Note. - ^This dish may be varied very much
by putting one teaspoonful of chopped ham,
tongue, mushroom, &c., at the foot of the Utile
case, then the egg with the cream on the top.
Or grated cheese may be sprinkled both above
and below the egg, and this makes a nice dinner
savoury.
Eggs with Green Peas
Ingredients -
4 Eggs.
i pint cooked Oreen Peas.
1 gill ligbt Sauce.
2 table-sp. Milk or Cream.
A pinch of Sugar.
Sippets of Toast or Fried
Bread.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Heat a little light-coloxired sauce
and add the peas and seasoning. Cook for a
few minutes, and add the milk or cream at the
last. Turn the peas with their sauce on to a
hot dish, and place on the surface four nicely
poached eggs. Garnish with sippets of toast
or fried bread.
Eggs a la Maitre d' Hotel
(Fr. CEufs h. la Maitre d'Hotel)
Ingredients -
0 Eggi.
Maitre d'H6tel Butter.
6 pieces
Toast.
of hot buttered
Method. - Arrange the eggs, nicely poached,
on the top of the pieces of toast. Put a pat of
maitre d'hotel butter about the siz^ of a shilling
on the top of each egg, and send them to table
while the butter is just melting. (For Maitre
d'Hfitel Butter, see p. 144.)
Ingredients-
4 Eggs.
4 rounds of hot buttered
Toast
J lb. cooked Chicken or
Veal.
Eggs a la Reine
{Fr. CEufs a la Reine)
A little chopped Parsley.
2 oz. cooked Ham or Tongue.
2 table-sp. light Sauce or
Ora^-y.
Seasoning.
Method. - Mince the meat and ham or tongue
very finely, and heat it in a small saucepan with
the sauce to moisten it. Season to taste, and
spread this neatly on the rounds of hot buttered
toast. Place a poached egg on the top of each,
and sprinkle with a little finely chopped parsley.
Serve at once and very hot.
Eggs with Shrimp Sauce
Ingredients -
1 cupful White Sauce.
6 rounds of hot buttered
Toast.
Fresh or potted Shrimps.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Heat the sauce in a small saucepan
and add enough potted or shelled fresh shrimps
to thicken the sauce well. Poach the eggs, and
lay them on six rounds or squares of hot buttered
toast. Season the sauce with pepper and salt,
and pour it over the eggs. Serve very hot.
Eggs sur le Plat
(Fr. CEufs sur le Plat)
Ingredients -
3 Eggs.
I 1 oz. Butter.
Salt and Pepper.
Method. - Lightly butter a flat fire-proof dish,
and break the eggs into it without breaking
the yolks. Season with pepper and salt, and
put the rest of the butter in small pieces on the
top. Set the dish in a moderate oven, and let
it remain until the whites become set, but by
no means hard. They will require about ten
minutes. Serve hot.
Note. - A httlo cream may be poured over the
eggs before putting them in the oven.
Eggs with Tomatoes
Ingredients-
2 Tomatoes.
1 oz. Butter.
1 tea-sp. chopped Onion.
1 oz. Ham (chopped).
2 Eggs.
1 or 2 slices of Toast
Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Put the tomatoes into boiling
water for a minute, lift them out, dry and peel
them ; then cut them in small pieces. Melt the
butter in a small saucepan, add the tomatoes,
onion, and ham, cook for about ten minutes,
and season to taste. Remove the pan from
the fire, and add the eggs well beaten. Stir
again over the fire until the mixture becomes
thick, but on no account must it be haxd. Cut
GUIDE TO COOKERY
185
the toast into neat fingers or fancy -shaped pieces,
put a Uttle of the mistxire on each, garnish with
parsley, and serve very hot.
Eggs Stuffed with Sardines
Ingredients -
6 hard-boiled Eggs.
2 oz. Butter.
2 or 3 drops Vinegar.
1 dessert-sp. Sardine Paste.
Cayenne Pepper.
Salad and Small Biscuits.
Method. - Cut the eggs in halves across, re-
move the yolks, and cut a small piece off the
white so that the pieces stand Uke httle cups.
Put the yolks into a mortar or strong basin
with the butter, sardine paste, and seasoning,
pound well and then rub through a sieve. Spread
the biscuits with some of the mixture, and fill
up the egg-cups with the remainder, piling it
high in the centre. Serve very cold, garnish
with cress or other small salad.
Note. - This dish will look better if the mix-
ture is put into a forcing bag and forced into
the eggs ; a little being used to garnish round
the sides of the biscviits.
There are many varieties of this dish, as any
savoury paste may be used instead of sardine
flavouring. The decoration may also be varied -
small pieces of pickle, ham, beetroot, or truffle
cut in fancy shapes will help to give a Httle
colour, while chopped aspic instead of the Uttle
biscuits may serve as a bed upon which to dish
the eggs.
Poached Eggs with CSieese
(Fr. CEufs poch^s au Fromage)
Ingredients -
4 or 5 Eggs.
1 gill White Sauce.
3 table-sp. grated Cheese.
3 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
Pepper and Salt
A little Butter.
Method. - Butter a flat dish, and sprinkle it
with half the bread-crumbs and cheese. Poach
the eggs, and place them on the top. Then
pour over the sauce, and put the rest of the
cheese and bread-crumbs on the top. Lay on
a few small pieces of butter, and place in a hot
oven to melt the cheese and lightly brown
the top.
Savoury Egg Cutlets
Ingredients -
3 hard-boiled Eggs.
\ oz. Butter.
J oz. Flour.
i gill MilK.
2 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
i tea-sp. Anchovy or Shrimp
Essence.
6 or 8 Button Mushrooms.
Egg and Bread-crumbs.
A little Flour.
Seasoning.
Method. - Boil the eggs very hard ; let them
lie in cold water for a few minutes, then remove
the shells and chop them rather finely. Melt
the butter in a small saucepan, add the flovu-,
and mix until smooth. Tiien draw the saucepan
to one side, add the milk, and cook again over
the fire, stirring all the time until smooth and
thick. Add now the chopped eggs, the mush-
rooms finely chopped, the bread-crumbs, and
seasoning. Mix well together, and spread the
naixture on to a plate to cool. Finish in the
same way as lobster cutlets (p. 137).
Scrambled Eggs
{Fr. (Eufs Brouill6s)
IngredierUa-
4 Eggs.
1 table-sp. Milk or Cream.
1 table-sp. Stock or Gravy.
1 oz. Butter.
Seasoning.
1 slice hot buttered Toast.
Method. - Melt the butter in an enamelled or
earthenware saucepan - add the eggs sHghtly
beaten and the milk and stock, and season to
taste. Stir over a moderate fire until the eggs
begin to set and the mixture is of a nice creamy
consistency. It m\ist not be overcooked or the
eggs will be tough. Place the toast on a hot
dish, cut it in three or foiir pieces, and pour the
scrambled eggs over. Garnish with small sprigs
of parsley.
Note. - This dish may be varied by adding
different ingredients to the eggs, &c., thus : -
With Ham. - Fry one or two ovmces of chopped
lean ham in the butter before adding the other
ingredients. Tongue can be used in the same
way.
With Peas or Asparagus Points. - Add two
or three table -spoonfuls cooked gi'een peas or
asparagus points to the eggs before they begin
to thicken.
With Anchovies. - Add one tea-spoonful an-
chovy essence to the mixture, and serve gar-
nished with fine strips of anchovy which have
been warmed on a plate over hot water.
Ingredients-
1 oz. Butter.
Plain Omelet
(Fr. Omelette Naturel)
I Flavouring
I taste.
Pepper and Salt.
according to
Method. - An omelet is the most difficult to
prepare of any egg-dish. It reqmres some prac-
tice to give it the right shape, to have it soft
inside and to give it a smooth slightly browned
surface. The first essential is to have a perfectly
clean and smooth pan - and one which is kept
for this special purpose.
Beat the eggs just enough to break them, and
at the last moment, or they will become watery.
The rule is twelve beats. Add pepper, salt,
and minced onion, parsley, herbs, muslirooms,
or whatever fancy may dictate. A dessert-
spoonful of milk or cream may be used or not.
Have the pan evenly heated, but not scorching.
Put in the butter, and let it run evenly over the
186
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pan, but not brown, and then add the eggs, &c.
With a fork break the cooked sm'faco in several
places quickly, so that the egg from the top
may run to the bottom and cook, or loosen
the omelet from the sides of the pan, letting
the uncooked ptirt run under. Tliis must be
done in the beginning, so as not to make the
surface uneven. Wlien the egg is cooked, but
yet quite soft on the top, lift the pan on one
side, slip a knife-blade under one half of the
omelet, and carefully roll the egg to the centre.
Let it cook a moment to set any egg that has run
out. Place a hot dish over the pan and turn
them together so that the omelet will fall in the
right place. The outside of the omelet should
be firm and lightly browned, the inside soft and
creamy. Garnish with parsley, and serve at
once. Have everything ready before beginning
to cook an omelet, as it will not improve being
kept while the dish is heated and the garnishing
found.
Note. - The size of the pan must always be
considered. Unless it is proportioned to the
number of eggs, it will be unmanageably thick
or thin.
More eggs may be used if a larger omelet is
required, but never more than eight.
Savoury Omelet
{Fr. Omelette aux Fines Herbes)
Ingredients -
1 tea-ap. chopped Parsley.
i tea-sp. mixed Herbs.
2 Eggs.
i tea-spoonful choppedOnioii
or Shallot.
1 oz. Butter.
Pepper and Salt
Method. - Separate the yolks from the whites
of the eggs. Put the yolks into a medium-sized
basin and the whites on to a plate. Add to the
yolks the parsley, onion, herbs, pepper, and salt,
and work these well together with a wooden
spoon until of a creamy consistency. Beat up
the whites of the eggs with a broad-bladed knife
until so stiff that you could turn the plate upside
down without the whites falling off. Remove
the wooden spoon from the basin, and ^^dth an
iron one stir the whites lightly into the other
mixture. Melt the butter in an omelet pan,
and pour the mixture into it, scraping out the
basin as quickly as possible. Stir the mixture
round with an iron spoon until it begins to set,
stirring mostly on the surface, and not scraping
the foot of the pan. Then hold it a little longer
over the fire until the omelet is nicely browned
on th? under-side. Slip a knife under it, and
double over first from one side and then from
the other towards the centre. If it is not quite
cooked on the top, hold it in front of the fire for
a minute or two. Then turn it on to a hot dish,
and serve as quickly as possible.
{Fr.
Ingredients -
4 Eggs.
2 oz. Butter.
Cheese Omelet
Omelette au Parmesan)
3 table-sp. grated Cheese.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Make in the same way as Savoury
Omelet, adding the grated cheese to the eggs.
Ham Omelet
{Fr. Omelette au Jambon)
Ingredients -
2 oz. cooked Ham. ■ 1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
2 Eggs. A little made Mustard.
1 oz. Butter. I Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Make in the same way as Savoiu-y
Omelet, adding the ham (finely chopped) and
mustard to the yolks of eggs.
Mushroom Omelet
{Fr. Omelette au Champignons)
Ingredients -
6 or 8 fresh Mushrooms.
1 Shallot.
1 tea-sp. chopped Parsley.
Pepper and Salt.
i oz. Butter.
A Savoury or Plain Omelet.
Method. - Remove the skins and stalks from
the mushrooms, and let them lie in salt and
water for five minutes. Then dry them
thoroughly and cut them small. Melt the
butter in a small saucepan, and put in the
mushrooms, shallot finely chopped, parsley,
pepper and salt. Cook these together for about
ten minutes. Make a plain omelet, and before
folding it over lay the cooked muslu-ooms on
one half.
Shrimp Omelet
{Fr. Omelette aux Crevettes)
Ingredients -
3 Eggs.
1 oz. Butter.
1 tea-sp. Anchovy Essence.
Pepper and Salt.
Mixture -
1 cupful picked Shrimps. I Seasoning.
1 gill White Sauce. I
Method. - Put the shrimps into a small sauce-
pan with the sauce, season to taste, and make
thoroughly hot over the fire.
Make a Plain Omelet, and before folding it over
put the shrimp mixture in the centre.
Cheese Custard
Ingredients -
1 pint Milk.
2 Eggs.
} tea-spoonful Mustard.
Method. - Beat up the eggs with the mustard,
pepper and salt. Heat the milk and pour it on
to them. Add the cheese and pour all into a
3 oz. Cheddar or Oruy6re
Cheese.
Cayenne Pepper and Salt.
GUIDE TO COOKEKY
187
1 gill of Milk.
2 Eggs.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
greased pie-dish, sprinkle a little more cheese
over the top and bake in a moderate oven for
haK-an-hour. Serve hot with plain biscuits.
Cheese Fondue
{Fr. Fondue au Fromage)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter.
3 oz. grated Parmesan
Cheese.
1| oz. Bread-crumbs.
A little made Mustard.
Method. - Put the bread-crumbs and butter
into a basin, boil the milk, and pour it over them.
Add the cheese (keeping back about one dessert-
spoonful), yolks of eggs, and seasonings, and
mix well. Beat up the wliites of eggs to a stiff
froth, and mix them in Ughtly at the last. Poiu*
the mixture into a greased pie-dish or fire-proof
dish, sprinkle the remainder of the cheese over
the top, and bake in a good oven about twenty
minutes, or until nicely browned and well risen.
Note. - Instead of baking tliis in one large
dish, the mixture may be poured into small
china dishes or paper cases, and baked from
ten to fifteen minutes in a good oven. Those
would be called Cheese Ramequins.
Cheese Souffle
{Fr. Souffle au Parmesan)
2 yolks of Eggs.
3 whites of Eggs.
Pepper and Salt.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Ingredients-
1 oz. Butter.
4 oz. Flour.
IJ oz. Cheddar Cheese.
IJ oz. Parmesan Cheese.
1 gill of Milk.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,
add the flour, and mix these two well together
with a wooden spoon. Pour in the milk, and
stir quickly over the fire until the mixture draws
away from the sides of the saucepan. Then
remove the pan from the fire, and add the
grated cheese and the seasonings. Next add the
yolks, one at a time, and beat well together.
Have the whites beaten to a very stiS froth with
a wire whisk, and stir them lightly in with an
iron spoon. Pour the mixture into a greased
fire-proof souffle dish, and do not fill it more than
three-quarters full. Bake in a good oven from
twenty to thirty minutes, or until the souffle is
well risen, is nicely browned, and feels firm to
the touch. Serve in the dish in which it is
baked, and as quickly as possible.
Note. - This may be baked in small china or
paper souffle cases instead of in one large one.
Parmesan Balls
Ingredients -
2 oz. grated Parmesan Salt.
Cheese. Cayenne Pepper.
2 whites of Eggs.
Method. - Boat the whites of eggs to a perfectly
stiff froth with a pinch of salt and a dust of
cayenne. Then stir in quickly and Ughtly 2 oz.
of freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Drop small
tea-spoonfuls of the mixture into a saucepan
of boihng fat, and cook them until a pretty
brown colour (about five minutes). Drain well
and serve on a d'oyley or dish-paper, sprinkled
with Paprika popper and grated cheese.
Potato and Cheese Mould
Ingredients -
J lb. cooked Potatoes.
2 oz. grated Cheese.
2 table-sp. Milk or Cream.
1 oz. Butter.
2 Eggs.
A few browned Bread-
crumbs.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Sieve the potatoes, and add to them
the butter melted, the yolks of eggs, cheese,
seasoning, and the milk or cream. Mix well
together. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, and
stir them in lightly to the other mixture. Grease
a plain mould or basin, and line it with browned
bread-crumbs. Tliree parts fill it with the mix-
ture, and bake in a moderate oven about thirty
minutes. Turn out on a hot dish, and serve at
once.
Swiss Fondue
Ingredients -
4 Eggs.
2 oz. Gruy^re Cheese.
1 oz. Butter.
A little made Mustard.
Plain Biscuits or thin Toast.
Pepper and Salt.
Method. - Beat the eggs in a saucepan, add the
cheese grated and the butter. Season highly,
and stir over the fire until the mixture is soft
and creamy. Serve very hot on toasted biscuits
or fingers of thin toast.
Note. - White wine should be served with this
savoury.
SANDWICHES
This term has now a much wider meaning
than formerly ; it includes not only the plain
sandwich consisting of shoes of meat placed
between two pieces of bread-and-butter, cut in
varying degrees of thickness, but also many
dainty trifles suitable for afternoon teas and
other Ught refreshments.
The variety of these little sandwiches is
endless, and the following hints and recipes are
merely suggestive. Clever fingers and a httle
ingenuity will soon invent many others.
Sandwiches may be made of white or brown
bread, small rolls, various kinds of biscuits,
toast, or pastry, fiUed with meat, salad, eggs,
fish, flavom-ed butter, nuts, &c., and made up
in a variety of ways.
Wlien Bread is used it shoiild be a day old
and fine in texture. New bread that is full of
holes and crumbly will not cut well. A sandwich
loaf is the best for white bread, and Hovis,
Bermaline, or other fine makes for brown.
188
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
If rolls aro preferred they must be quite fresh
and small, and with a soft crust. The little
finger-shaped ones are neatest and are very easy
to arrange.
There are many kinds of plain Biscuits wliich
can be utilised for making sandwiches, and they
make a nice change from the visual bread-and-
butter species. The plain water, milk, wheaten,
and parmesan are eill suitable ; in fact, any kind
which is unsweetened and not too crumbly.
Toast when it is served for this purpose mtist
be thin, well made, and not too crisp.
SUces of Pastry can also be employed, and
are especially suitable for evening refreshments.
Any good pastry may be cut in strips or rounds,
baked in the oven, then allowed to cool and split
open to receive the sandwich mixture.
The Butter used for sandwiches must be very
good and of a consistency that will spread easily
on the bread without cnimbUng it to pieces.
If hard it should be creamed first, or worked
on a plate with a knife until it is soft enough
to use. The knife may be dipped in boiling
water occasionally so as to make the butter
less hard.
The Meat used must be free from all skin,
gristle and a superabundance of fat. In most
cases it is better to mince the meat and mix
it with its special seasonings before placing it
on the bread, unless a more substantial sandwich
is wanted for travellers or sportsmen.
Fish too is better either chopped or poimded
to a peiste, and Salads should be cut in small
pieces.
As will be seen in the following recipes a little
well-flavoured sauce or a little cream is some-
times mixed with the meat or fish, especially
when it is dry, in order to bind all together.
The various kinds of potted meat now on the
market are all most useful for sandwich-making,
and these can either be combined with the butter
or put on as a separate layer.
Sandwiches may be cut in various shapes -
square, triangular, oblong or diamond, while
different fancy shapes may be stamped out with
a cutter, although the latter method is apt to
be wasteful unless the scraps can be otherwise
used up.
Very dainty little sandwiches can also be
made by spreading a tasty mixture on thin
bread and then rolling it up, instead of putting
a second piece of bread on the top.
The thickness and size of the sandwiches
will depend upon the purpose for which they
are to bo xised. For afternoon tea they must
be cut very thin, and nothing of a substantial
nature must bo offered, as it would take away
the appetite for dinner which follows so shortly
after. For evening refreshments they may be
made more substantial, and still more so if they
are to serve as a substitute for meat.
Sandwiches should be served on a pretty
serviette or lace-edgcd paper and may be
decorated with a little peirsley, small cress,
tomato, &c., according to their kind.
Beef and Chutney Sandwiches
Ingredients -
3 oz. cold Boast Beef. I 1 dessert-spoonful Sauce.
1 dessert-spoonful Chutney. White Bread and Butter.
A little Mustard. | Seasoning.
Method. - Mince the beef finely, add to it the
chutney (cut very small) and seasoning, and
moisten with a little well-flavoured sauce. Put
a layer of this between slices of bread and
butter, trim and cut into shapes.
Note. - Different kinds of meat may be used
in the same way, varying the flavouring according
to the kind of meat used. Or, two different
kinds of meat may be used together, such as
ham and chicken, veal and tongue, &c., maj'on-
naise, tomato, brown curry or any savoury
sauce can be used to moisten the mixture.
Egg and Shrimp Sandwiches
Cayenne Pepper.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Small Rolls.
Ingredients -
2 hard-boiled Eggs.
A few picked Shrimps.
1 oz. Butter, or
1 table-spoonful Cream. |
Method. - Chop the eggs and add the shrLmps
cut in small pieces, season to taste, and add the
butter melted or the cream. Mix well together.
SpUt some finger-shaped rolls, put a good tea-
spoonful of the mixture into each, and close
them up.
Note. - A httle mayonnaise sauce may be used
instead of the cream or butter, and chopped
salmon or sardines may take the place of the
shrimps.
Sardine and Cucumber Sandwiches
Ingredients -
Sardine Paste. I Cucumber.
Butter. I Brown Bread.
Seasoning.
Method. - Mix equal quantities of butter and
sardine paste together, adding seasoning if
necessary. Spread this on thin slices of brown
bread. Put some pieces of prepared cucumber
on half the number of pieces, cover with the
others, trim and cut in shape.
To prepare the Cucumber. - Peel a small piece
of cucumber and cut it in thin slices. Lay
these on a plate, sprinkle with salt, and let them
remain at least half-an-hour. Then pour off
the water and season the cucumber with pepper,
salt, and a few drops of oil and lemon juice.
Turn over and over so as to mix thoroughly.
Note. - Any other potted meat may be used
instead of the sardine paste, and white bresMl
instead of brown.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
189
Tomato Sandwiches
Ingredients -
1 or 2 ripe Tomatoes. | Seasoning.
1 Gherkin. I Bread and Butter.
Method. - To prepare the Tomatoes. - Allow
them to soak in boiling water two or three
minutes, then remove the skin and cut them in
very thin sUces. Put the shoes on a plate and
season with pepper, salt, cayenne, and a few
drops of oil and lemon juice. Arrange the
tomato on the top of some thin bread and
butter, sprinkle a Uttle chopped gherkin or pickle
over, and put another piece of bread and butter
on the top. Trim and cut in shape.
Ingredients -
Cheese.
Butter.
Cheese Sandwiches
Seasoning.
Plain Biscuits.
1st Method. - Season butter with cayenne
pepper and mustard and spread it on some
plain biscuits. Put a thin slice of Gruyere,
Cheddar, or Dutch cheese on the top and cover
with another biscuit.
2nd Method. - Season the butter as above and
mix into it an equal quantity of grated cheese
and spread a layer of this between two biscuits.
A Uttle thick cream may be added to the
mixture.
^ote.- Almost any kind of cheese may be
used for making sandwiches, and the various
kinds of cream cheeses are also very suitable.
It is a nice way of using up small remains. A
little salad may be served with these sandwiches.
Nut Sandwiches
Ingredients -
Shelled Nuts.
Cream.
I Slices of Pastry.
I Seasoning.
Method. - Any kind of shelled nuts can be used.
Toast them for a few minutes in the oven or
in front of the fire and then chop them rather
small. Mix with clotted or whipped cream and
season to taste. The mixture may be made
either sweet or savoury. Put a thick layer of
this inside a finger-shaped piece of pastry.
Note. - Honey may be used instead of cream
for sweet sandwiches. Gingerbread or any
plain cake may be used instead of pastry.
Chicken and Celery Sandwiches
Ingredients -
Cooked Chicken. [ Mayonnaise Sauce or Cream.
Celery. I Bread and Butter.
Method. - Take equal quantities of tender
chicken and the heart of celery and chop them
together. Moisten with a httle mayonnaiso
sauce or thick cream and season to taste. Spread
between bread and butter or small sandwich
rolls.
Rolled Sandwiches
Ingredients -
Potted Meat. i Butter
Bread and Butter. 1
Method. - Cream the butter on a plate with
an equal quantity of some tasty potted meat.
If a highly flavoiired paste is used, such as
anchovy, a smaller proportion will be siifficient.
The mixtTire must be delicate in flavour and of
a nice smooth consistency. Spread this on thin
slices of brown bread from which the crust heis
been removed and then roll up the pieces.
If white bread is preferred the roiuid sandwich
loaf makes a very pretty shape.
Spiced Beef Sandwiches
Ingredients -
Spiced Beef. , White Bread.
Curry Powder. Seasoning.
Butter. I
Method. - Flavour the butter with curry powder
and season with mustard and cayenne pepper,
working all together on a plate. Spread shces
of white bread with the mixture and put small
thin slices of sUced beef between each two.
Trim and cut in shape.
HOT AND COLD SWEETS
General Notes. - The number and variety of
culinary preparations to which the term
" pudding " may be applied is very varied,
comprising milk puddings, suet and custard
puddings, batter pudding mixtures, cake-hke
mixtures, souffles, and pastry of different kinds.
For a baked pudding, see that the oven is at
the right degree of heat. Milk puddings require
a moderate oven, whilst for pastry and any
pudding of the nature of a souffle a hot oven is
required. Custard puddings and all those con-
taining custard must be cooked slowly. It is a
good plan when cooking a custard pudding to
stand the dish in a tin of water. Tliis will
prevent the custard becoming watery.
A pudding to be steamed must be put into
a well-greased mould or basin and covered over
with a piece of buttered paper. If a steamer
is not available for the purpose, put the pudding
into a stewpan with just suflScient water to come
190
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
half-way up the mould, put tho lid on tho pan,
and keep the water at simmering point until
the pudding is cooked. Any pudding of the
nature of a custard must be very carefully
steamed, as extreme heat would curdle the eggs
and make the pudding watery. More soUd
puddings may bo steamed more quickly. The
basin should not be more than three-quarters
full.
A pudding which is to be boiled must be tied
over firmly with a cloth wliich has been \^Tung
out of boiling water and sprinkled v,-ith flour.
Have sufficient boiling water in the pan to cover
the pudding, and keep it boiling steadily the
whole tune tlie pudding is in it. A kettle of
boiUng water should be kept at hand to fill up
the saucepan when necessary. Fill the basin to
the brim for a boiled pudding.
Pudding cloths sliould be quickly washed after
using and hung in the air to dry.
^V^l6n suet is losed in a pudding it should be
hard and dry. Remove all skin and fibre from
it and shred it as finely as possible. Dust it
over generously with sieved flour, and then
chop it finely with a long pointed knife. Hold
down the point of the knife on the board with
one hand, and with the other work handle
end up and down. Any suet, if good, can be
used, although beef suet is generally preferred.
Mutton suet, however, makes the Ughtest
puddings, while veal suet is the most dehcate.
To prepare fruit (currants, peel, and sultanas),
see p. 191.
Use moist sugar for all general sweetening
purposes, but castor sugar for all light puddings.
To turn a pudding out of a mould or basin,
lift it from the pan, and allow it to stand a
minute or two. If too great haste is used, the
first steam escaping from the pudding will crack
it. Remove the cloth or paper from the top,
then take hold of the basin with a cloth, and
shake it gently to ascertain that it is coming
away freely from the sides, then reverse it on
a dish, and remove the mould carefully. When
the pudding is in a cloth untie the strings, and
draw the cloth a little from the sides of the
pudding, then reverse it on a hot dish, and draw
the cloth carefully away.
HOT PUDDINGS
Amber Pudding
Ingredients -
6 o". Bread-crumbs.
4 oz. minced Apple.
2 oz. Sugar.
2 oz. Flour.
4 oz. chopped Suet.
1 tea sp. Baking I'owder.
2 table-spoonfuls Golden
Syrup.
2 Eggs.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
A pinch of Salt.
I A little grated Lemon Kind.
Method. - Mix all the dry ingredients together
in a basin, and make a well in the centre. Add
the syrup slightly warmed and the two eggs
well beaten, and mix together, adding a little
milk if necessary. Pour the mixture into a
well-gi'oased mould or basin, cover with a scalded
and floured cloth, and boil quickly for two
hours. Servo with lemon or orange sauce.
Boiled Batter with Fruit
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour.
\ pint Milk.
Fruit.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
2 Eggs.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Sieve tho flour into a basin with the
salt and the baking powder. Make a well in
the centre, and add the two eggs without
beating them. Jlix the flour gradually into
these, and then add the milk by degrees. Beat
the batter well, and then add as much fruit
as it will hold. Apples, cherries, raspberries, or
strawberries are about the best fruits to use.
Apples would require to be peeled, cored, and
shced, cherries stoned, and raispberries or straw-
berries carefully picked. Pour the mixture into
a weU-greased mould, and boil quickly for one
hour. Serve with fruit syrup or any nice sweet
sauce.
Cabinet Pudding with Pineapple
Ingredients -
2 Eggs.
1 table-spoonful Sugar.
3 or 4 slices of Bread.
\ lb. tinned Pineapple.
4 pint Milk.
Method. - Grease a plain round mould, and
cut the bread in rounds to fit it. Drain the
pineapple, and cut it into small pieces. Fill the
mould with alternate layers of bread and pine-
apple. Beat up the eggs with the sugar, and
add the milk. Strain this custard into the
mould, cover with greased paper, and allow tho
pudding to stand for half-an-hour before cook-
ing, so that the bread may become thoroughly
soaked. Then place the mould in a tin with
hot water to come half-way up tho sides, and
cook in a slow oven from a half to three-quarters
of an hour, or until the custard is set. Let it
stand in the mould for a few minutes after it is
cooked. When ready to serve, turn carefully
out and serve with pineapple sauce.
Note. - vSponge-cake cut in slices may be used
in place of bread, and a httle Uqueur added for
flavouring is an improvement.
Chester Pudding
Ingredients -
1 teacupful Ilour.
1 teacupful Sugar.
1 teacupful Bread-cnimbs.
1 teacupful chopped Suet.
1 teacupful Milk.
1 teacupful Blackcurrant
Jam.
\ tea-spoonful Carbonate of
Soda.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Chop the suet finely, and put it into
a basin with the bread-crumbs, flour, sugar, and
salt. Mix these dry ingredients together, make
a well in the centre, and put in the jam. Heat
GUIDE TO COOKERY
191
the milk slightly in a small saucepan, add the
soda free from lumps, and mix quickly. Pour
this while still frothy on to the top of the jam,
and mix all together. Put the mixture into a
greased moiild or basin, cover with a scalded
and floured cloth, and boil for three hours.
Serve with jam sauce.
Chocolate Pudding
{Fr. Pouding au Chocolat)
2 or 3 oz. Chocolate. 1 gill of Milk.
6 oz. Bread-crumbs. 2 Eggs,
3 oz. Butter.
3 oz. Castor Sugar.
A few drops of Vanilla.
A pinch of Cinnamon.
Method. - Cut the chocolate into small pieces,
and dissolve it slowly in the milk. Cream the
butter and sugar together in a basin, add the
yolks of eggs and a few of the bread-crumbs,
and mix well ; then the dissolved chocolate,
vanilla, and the rest of the crimibs, and mix
again. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth
and mix them in lightly at the last. Pour the
mixture into a well -greased mould, and steam
slowly for one and a half hours, until the pudding
is well risen, and feels firm to the touch. Serve
with chocolate, custard, or wine sauce.
Christmas Plum Pudding
{Fr. Pouding de Noel)
Ingredients -
2 lbs. Valencia Raisins.
2 Iba. Currants.
2 lbs. Sultanas.
2i lbs. Sugar.
2 lbs. Suet.
1 lb. Flour.
J lb. Apples.
IJ lbs. Bread-crumbs.
i lb. mixed Peel.
J lb. Sweet Almonds.
2 Bitter Almonds.
1 table-spoonful Mixed Spice-
} tea-spoonful Salt.
Rind and juice of 3 Lemons.
1 glass of Brandy.
1 glass of Kum.
12 Eggs.
Milk if necessary.
Method. - First prepare the fruit. Stone the
raisins and chop them sUghtly. Pick and clean
the currants and sultanas. Shred the peel and
blanch and chop the almonds. Peel and chop
the apples, and grate the rind very thinly from
the lemons. Put all the fruit into a large basin
or crock, add the other dry ingredients and mix
thoroughly. Then beat the eggs, and add them
with the wine, lemon juice, and enough milk to
bind all together. Mix again with a long spoon,
cover the mixture, and let it stand for twenty-
four hours before cooking. Then fill up greased
moulds or basins with the mixture, tie over them
a scalded and floured cloth, and boil from six to
eight hours according to size. Keep the puddings
in a cool place for several weeks before using
them, and reboil for several hours as required.
Before serving the pudding, povir a wine-glassful
of brandy round the base, and set a light to it
just before putting to on the table. The dish
must be hot and perfectly dry, or the brandy
will not bum well.
Notes. - A httle grated orange rind and juice
may be added to the above mixture.
Remains of cold plum pudding are very good
cut in slices and fried.
Date Pudding
(Fr. Pouding aux Dattes)
Ingredients-
i lb. Dates. i tea-spoonful mixediSpice.
2 oz. Sugar. i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
3 oz. Suet. A little Milk.
2 oz. Bread-crumbs, A pinch of Salt.
2 oz. Flour. 1 table-spoonful Treacle.
1 Egg.
Method. - Stone the dates and cut them in
small pieces, and chop the suet, ilix all the
dry ingredients together in a basin, and make a
well in the centre. Add the eggs well beaten,
the treacle sMghtly warmed, and enough milk to
make all of a softish consistency. Pour the
mixture into a well-greased mould, and steam
steadily for at least two hours. Turn out on a
hot dish, and serve with lemon or any other
suitable sauce.
Fig Pudding
{Fr. Pouding aux Figues)
Ingredients -
} lb. Figs.
6 oz. Suet.
J lb. Bread-crumbs.
J lb. Flour.
i lb. Sugar.
2 Eggs.
1 tea-spoonful Mixed Spice.
A pinch of Salt.
J tea-sp. Baking Powder.
J pint Milk.
Method. - Soak the figs in boiling water for
ten minutes, then dry them and cut them in
small pieces, removing the stalks. Sieve the
flour into a basin, add the suet finely chopped,
the sugar, bread-crumbs, spices, baking powder,
and salt, and mix all lightly together with the
fingers. Then add the figs, mix again, and
make a well in the centre. Beat the eggs in
another basin, and pour them into the centre of
the dry ingredients. Add also the milk, and
stir well together. Povir the mixture into a
greased mould or basin, and steam steadily for
at least four hours. Serve with custard or wine
sauce.
Note. - This pudding may be made richer
by adding two ounces of candied peel and two
ounces of swcel almonds. A little wine may also
be added and less milk.
Little Russian Puddings
Ingredients -
2 Eggs, their weight in
Butter, Flour, and Castor
Sjigar.
J tea-sp. Baking Powder.
2 or 3 drops of Vanilla.
2 or 3 drops of Essence of
Lemon.
1 dessert-spoonful grated
Chocolate.
2 or 3 drops of Carmine.
Method. - Cream the butter and sugeir and
add the eggs and flour by degrees (see p. 212).
192
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
When the mixture looks light and shows air-
bubbles, add the baking powder, and then divide
it into three equal portions. To one portion
add the chocolate, to another a few drops of
carmine to make it a pretty pink colour, and
two or tliroe drops of essence of almonds to
flavour, and leave the tliird portion its natural
colour, flavouring with vanilla. Have about
nine small moulds or dariols well greased, and
put into them alternate spoonfuls of the different
mixtviros. Fill them rather irregularly, and then
shake the mixture down. Tliey should not be
more than three-quarters full. Put them into
a saucepan with a double fold of paper at the
foot, poiu- in enough hot water to come half-way
up the sides, and cover with greased paper-
Put the Ud on the pan, and steam the puddings
slowly for half-an-hour. Then turn them out
and serve with custard sauce.
{Fr.
Ingredients-
J lb. Bread-crumbs.
2 or. Flour.
2 01. Rice Flour.
3 02. Castor Sugar.
i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Orange Pudding
Pouding k 1' Orange)
The grated rind of 2 Oranges
and the juice of 1.
J lb. chopped Suet.
A little Milk.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Wipe the oranges with a damp cloth,
and grate the rind off them on to the top of the
sugar. Work the sugar and orange rind together
with a broad-bladed knife until they are
thoroughly blended. Tlion chop the suet finely,
using some of the flour to prevent it sticking to
the board and knife. Mix all the dry ingredients
together in a basin, and make a well in the
centre. Add the orange juice strained, the eggs
well beaten, and enough milk to make all of a
softish consistency. Pour the mixture into a
greased mould or basin, and steam or boil for
at least two hours. Serve with orange sauce.
Note. - Lemon Pudding may be made in the
same way, substituting lemon for orange, and
using rather a smaller quantity of rind.
Pancakes
A little Lard for frying.
Castor Sugar.
Lemon or Orange Juicu.
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour.
1 pint .Milk.
2 EggB.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - There are several kinds of batter
for making pancakes. The above is one of the
simplest.
Sieve the flour and salt into a basin, and make
a well in the centre. Drop in the two yolks of
egg'., and with a wooden spoon mix a little of
the flour gradually into them. Then add about
half the milk verj' gradually, mixing in the flour
by degrees from the sides of the basin. Keep
the batter thick enough to allow of all lumps
being rubbed smooth, then beat well until it is
full of air-bubbles. Add the rest of the milk,
and, if possible, allow the batter to stand for an
hour at loa^t before using it. Just at the last
stir in quickly and lightly the whites of the eggs
beaten to a stiff froth.
Melt some lard in a saucepan, and let it stand
by the side of the firo to keep warm. Put a
little into a small frying or omelet pan, and
make it smoking hot. Then povu* quickly into
the centre of the pan half a gill or so of batter.
If the fat is hot enough, the batter will run all
over the pan at once, whereas if it has not quite
reached the required heat, the pan may have to
be tilted a little to get the batter to cover it
properly. Allow it to rest for a minute or two
vmtil set or nicely browned on the under side,
then slip a broad-bladed knife round the edges,
and then either toss the pancake over or turn
it with the knife. Brown on the other side,
then slip the pancake on to sugared paper, strew
sugar over it, sprinkle with lemon or orange
juice, and roll up. Keep this pancake hot on
a plate placed over hot water until the rest are
cooked. Each pancake will require a little fresh
fat added to the pan. Serve them very hot
and as quickly as possible, and send cut lemon or
orange to table with them.
Preserved Ginger Pudding
Ingredients -
2 Eggs.
3 02. Butter.
3 oz. Castor Sugar.
2 oz. Flour.
2 oz. Rice Flour.
Method. - Put the butter into a basin, and sieve
the sugar on the top of it. Beat these two
together with a wooden epoon until of a creamy
consistency. Then add the eggs and the two
flours by degrees. Beat well for a few minutes.
Cut the ginger into small pieces, and mix it in
lightly at the last with the baking powder,
ginger syrup, and ground ginger. Pour the
mixture into a well-greased mould, cover with
greased paper, and steam slowly for one and a
half hours. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour
custaxd sauce round.
Rice and Orange-Marmalade Pudding
Ingredients -
i lb. Rice.
2 pint Water.
1 quart Milk.
4 oz. Sugar.
1 oz. Butter.
3 Eggs.
2 table-sp. Marmalade.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Wash the rice in several waters until
quite clean, and then put it into a hned saucepan
with half-pint fresh cold water. Bring to the
boil, and pour the water off. Add the milk
and butter, and simmer slowly until the rice is
quite soft and thiclc. Stir well from time to
time, or cook in a double saucepan. When
GUIDE TO COOKERY
193
ready add the yolks of eggs and half the sugar.
Pour the mixture into a greased pie-dish, and
bake about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.
Then spread the top of the pudding rather
thickly with marmalade. Add a pinch of salt
to the whites of eggs, and beat them up to a
stiff froth. Sieve the remainder of the sugar
over them, and pile this meringue over the
marmalade. Return the pudding to a moderate
oven until the meringue is nicely browned and
set, and sprinkle with sugar before serving.
Caramel Semolina Pudding
{Fr. Caramel au Semoule)
Ingredients -
2 oz. Semolina.
1 oz. Sugar.
1 pint Milk.
2 oz. Loaf Sugar.
J gill Water.
2 Eggs,
flavouring.
Caramel
I A squeeze of Lemon Juice,
Method. - ^Rinse out a small saucepan with
cold water, and put into it the semolina and
the milk. Stir these over the fire until boiling,
then simmer from ten to fifteen minutes until
the semolina is quite cooked and the mixture
thick. Remove the pan from the fire, and add
the sugar flavouring to t&ste, and the two eggs
well beaten. Mix well. To make the caramel,
put the sugar, water, and lemon juice into a
small iron saucepan or sugar-boiler, and let them
boil until they become a golden brown colour.
Watch it carefully as it quickly browns. Then
pour the caramel into r plain mould, one and a
half pint size ; take hold of the mould with a
cloth, as it will be very hot, and run the caramel
over the bottom and sides, coating them well.
Allow this to cool for a few minutes, then pour
in the semolina mixture, and cover over with
greased paper. Steam slowly for three-quarters
of an hour, or bake in a moderate oven for
half-an-hour. This may be served either hot
or cold. Turn out carefully when wanted.
Note. - Rice may be used instead of semolina.
Yorkshire Pudding
Make batter the same as for pancakes (p. 192),
pour it into a baking-tin that has been well
greased with dripping from roast-beef, and bake
in a good oven for half-an-hour. Serve at once
cut in small pieces.
SOUFFLES AND FRITTERS
Notes on Souffl6-maldng. - This is a class of
puddings known only by its French name, which
is so generally understood that it has become
almost an anglicized word.
A souffle is a pudding which is made verj' light
by having stifl3y beaten whites of eggs added to
it, or sometimes whipped cream, and of which
the basis is a cooked batter, with raw yolks of
eggs and some distinctive flavouring, or other
ingredient which requires Uttle cooking, eidded
to it.
The preparation of a souffle is exceedingly
simple if exact measures are taken, and if the
directions given for making it are carefully
followed. The only difiiculty is in serving it
soon enough, as it falls so quickly when taken
from the heat. Have everything ready before
beginning to make the souffle. If it is a steamed
one prepare the tin, and put on the saucepan
with the water in which it is to be cooked. If,
on the other hand, it is a baked souffle, see that
the oven is at a right heat for cooking, and grease
the tin or dish to be used.
A souffle tin is a plain round one with high
sides. (A fancy mould is not suitable.) First
grease the mould very carefully
and tliickly with clarified butter.
If for a steamed souffle, cut a
double band of paper] wide enough
to stand three or fovir inches above
the top of the tin and to reach
down to the middle of it. Grease
this band, and tie it round the
outside of the tin, putting the
single edges to the top and the double fold
below. Also grease a round or square of
paper to cover the top.
The whites of eggs for all souffles must be
beaten up very stiffly in a basin with a wire
whisk, and folded rather than mixed in to the
other ingredients, care being taken not to break
them down by too much mixing.
As the mixture rises considerably when cook-
ing, the mould should not be more than half
filled. In a steamed souffie the band of paper
forms a protection to prevent the mixture
falUng over the sides ; in a baked souffle this ia
not so necessary, as the mixture hardens as it
rises.
When steaming a souffle, cook it very slowly
and steadily ; the water must only reach half-
way up the side of the mould, and merely simmer
slowly all the time. If cooked too quickly, the
souffl6 will rise rapidly without becoming firm,
and will then sink in the middle when turned
out, and look hke a crushed hat. A souffle is
ready when it feels firm to the toiich.
Steamed souffl6s are alwaj's turned out of
the moulds in which they are cooked, and a
stutable sauce poured round, never over them.
A souffle that has to be baked should be scored
across two or three times on the top to di\'ide
the mixtin-e before putting it in the oven, other-
wise the first stroke of the spoon when serving
it would lift off all the surface skin. The oven
for baking them should be moderate and steady.
Baked souffles are sent to table in the tins in
which they are baked, and these are either
slipped inside a hot silver case, or a weurm
N
194
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ser\-iette is folded round them. Cliina fireproof
dishes may be used instead of the tins.
Apricot SoufQ6
{Fr. Souffle aux Abricots)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Flour.
1 oz. Castor Sugar.
1 gill Apricot Puree.
3 jolka of Eggs.
2 or 3 drops of Cannine or
Cocliineal.
4 whites of Eggs.
A pinch of Salt.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - First prepare the pur6e by rubbing
Bome tinned apricots tlirough a hair sieve. Use
some of the sjTup from the tin along with the
apricots so as not to have the pur^o too thick.
IVesh apricots may be used in place of the
tinned, but these would reqviire to be stewed
first with a little water and sugar.
In making the sovtffl6, proceed exactly ac-
cording to directions given for lemon souffle
using the gill of apricot puree instead of the
gill of milk. Before mixing in the wliites, add
a squeeze of lemon juice, and just enough
Cfunnine or cochineal to make the mixture of a
peachy colour. Pour the mixture into a greased
souffl6 tin and steam slowly and steadily from
half to three-quarters of an hour, or until the
souffle is well risen and feels firm to the touch.
Turn out carefully, and serve at once with
apricot, custeird, or wine sauce poured round it.
Note. - Peach souffle may be made in the same
way.
Apple Souffle (Baked)
{Fr. Souffle aux Pommes)
Ingredients -
J oz. Butter.
Grated rind of } Lemon.
3 large Apples.
2EggB.
2 oz. Castor Sugar.
Method. - Bake the apples in the oven until
they are thoroughly cooked. Then scoop out
all the soft inside and rub this pulp through
a hair sieve. Put the sugar, lemon rind, and
yolks of egga into a medium-sized basin, and
beat them together with a wooden spoon until
of a creamy consistency ; then add the apple
pulp, and mix all together. Beat the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them lightly in
at the last. Pour the mixture into a groasod
china souffle dish or pie-dish, and bake in a
moderate oven for about twenty minutes, or
until well risen and firm to the touch. WTien
ready sprinkle with sugar and serve aa quickly
as possible.
Chocolate Souffl6
(Fr. Souffl6 au Chocolat)
In-^redients -
2 or 3 oz. Chocolate. 3 yolks of Eggs.
1 gill Milk. * whites of Eggs.
i oz. Potato Flour. A few drops of Vanilla.
1 table-spoonful Cream. 2 oz. Castor Sugar.
Method. - Break the chocolate into small pieces,
and put it into an enamelled saucepan with half
the milk and potato flour. Cook gently over tlio
fire, stirring from time to time, until the chocolate
is molted and quite free from lumps. Put the
sugar, yolks of eggs, and vanilla into a basin, and
work them together with a wooden spoon until
they are of a creamy consistency. Add the rest
of the milk to this, then the chocolate by degrees.
Return all to the saucepan, and cook together
over the fire until almost boiling. Then remove
from the fire, add the cream, and stir occasionally
for a few minutes. Beat up the whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them by degrees
with the other mixture, stirring them in as lightly
as possible. Pour into a greased souffl6 dish,
and cook from fifteen to twenty minutes in a
good oven. Should the souffle become too
brown, put a piece of paper on the top, but do
not open the oven door too often. Sprinkle
with a little sugar just before serving, and send
to table directly.
Lemon SoufflS
(Fr. Souffle au Citron)
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
3 yolks of Eggs.
4 whites of Eggs.
A pinch of Salt.
Ingredients -
1 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Hour.
1 oz. Castor Sugar.
Grated rind of 1 Lemon.
1 gill of Itilk.
Method. - Melt the butter in a small stewpan,
add the flour, and mix well together with a
wooden spoon. Pour in the milk, and stir
quickly over the fire until the mixture boils and
thickens. Wipe the lemon with a damp cloth,
and grate off the rind very thinly on to the
top of the sugar. Rub the sugar and lemon
rind together with the tips of the fingers until
the sugar looks qviite yellow. Remove the pan
from the fire, and add this sugar and a squeeze
of lomon juice, then the yolks one at a time,
beating well between each. Add a pinch of
salt to the whites, and whisk them to a very stiff
froth, then with an iron spoon stir them lightly
but thoroughly into the other mixtiu-e. Pour
all into a prepared souffle tin and steam slowly
from thirty to forty minutes, or until firm to the
touch. Turn out carefully on to a hot dish,
and serve with custard, lemon, or* wine sauce
poured round it.
Note. - Vanilla or orange souffle can be made
in the same way, substituting vanilla or orange
for the lemon.
Ingredients-
3 Eggs.
IJ oz. Sugar.
Omelet Souffl^
(Fr. Omelette Souffl^)
Grated rind of J Lemon.
A little Jam.
Method. - Put the yolks into a basin with the
sugar and grated lemon rind or other flavouring,
and mix well with a wooden spoon until of
GUIDE TO COOKERY
195
a pale creamy consistency. Whip the whites,
with a pinch of salt added to them, to a very
stiff froth, and fold them very lightly into the
yolks. Do not stir more than is necessary.
Pour the mixture into a well-greased omelet
pan, and put in a brisk oven from seven to ten
minutes until of a pale brown colour. When
firm to the touch, turn the omelet out of the
pan on to sugared paper, put a table-spoonful of
warm jam in the centre, and fold over. Lift the
omelet on to a hot dish with a dish-paper, and
serve at once.
Notes. - A little stewed fruit may be used in-
stead of jam, or the omelet may be served plain.
A plain iron or copper pan is the best. If
there is any danger of the omelet sticking to the
pan, the foot may be lined first with a round
of greased paper.
{Another Way)
If preferred, turn part of the mixtiu-e on to
a flat dish, and with a knife shape it into a round
with a depression in the centre. Put the rest
into a forcing-bag, and press it out through a
large pipe into lines or dots over the mound.
Sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a good oven
from ten to twelve minutes. Serve at once on
the dish on which it is baked.
Note. - A little jam may be put in the centre
before using the bag and pipe.
Rum Omelet
{Fr. Omelette au Rhum)
Make a plain omelet according to directions
given above. Wlien ready to place on the table
pour over the omelet a few spoonfuls of rum and
set fire to it.
Semolina Souffle
{Fr. Souffle de Semoule)
Ingredients -
1 oz. Semolina. 4 whites of Eggs.
1 pint Milk. A pinch of Salt.
2 oz. Castor Sugar. Flavouring.
3 yolks of Eggs.
Method. - Rinse out a small stewpan with
cold water, and put the semoUna and milk into
it. Stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until
boiling, and then allow the semolina to simmer
slowly for about ten minutes well between each.
Put the whites into a large basin or beating-
bowl, add a pinch of salt to them, and with a
wire whisk beat them up to a very stiff froth.
Remove the wooden spoon from the mixture,
and with an iron one stir the beaten whites
lightly but thoroughly in. Pour tins into a
prepared souffle tin one and a half pint size,
cover with greased paper, and steam slowly and
steadily from half to three-quarters of an hour,
or until the souffle is well risen and feels firm
to the touch. Turn out carefully on to a hot
dish, and serve at once with jam, custard, choco-
late, or wine sauce poured round it.
Note. - A ground-rice souffle may bo made in
the same way, using ground rice in place of
semolina. These souffles may be baked in a
fireproof dish instead of being steamed.
Batter for Fritters
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour.
1 gill tepid Water.
2 or 3 whites of Eggs.
1 table-spoonful Salad Oil or
melted Butter.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Sieve the flour and salt into a basin,
and make a well in the centre. Add the water
by degrees, and beat well with a wooden spoon
to make a smooth paste free from lumps. Then
add the oil or butter, and beat again for a few
minutes. Whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff
froth, and stir them in very lightly at the last.
Notes. - This batter may be used for all kinds
of fritters.
Sugar should not be added, as it is apt to
make it heavy.
It is better if allowed to stand for some time
before using, and before the whites of eggs are
added.
A little rum or liqueur may be added if desired.
The batter should be very thick, and of the
consistency to coat completely the article it is
intended to cover.
Apple Fritters
{Fr. Beignets de Pommes)
I Sugar.
I Flavouring.
Ingredienta-
Frying Batter.
Apples.
Method. - Choose firm ripe apples ; rennets
are best. Peel tliree or four, and cut them in
slices an eighth of an inch in tliickness. Then
with a small round cutter stamp out the cores.
Put the apple rings on a plato, and sprinkle them
with orange or lemon sugar (see under Lemon
Souffle), and, if hked, a few drops of rum or
brandy. Let them soak for a few minvites, then
steep a round of apple in the batter. Coat it well,
lift it out with a skewer, and drop it into a sauce-
pan of boiling fat. Repeat this with the other
rounds of apple, but do not put more than six or
seven pieces into the fat at one time, as they swell
considerably in the cooking. Tui-n them over
wliile in the fat, and let thein fry a nice amber
colour. Lift them out with a skimmer or per-
forated spoon, and dry on sugared paper in a
moderate oven until all are fried. Tlien servo
them on a folded serviette or dish-paper, the
slices over-lapping.
Banana Fritters
(Fr. Beignets de Bananes)
Ingredients -
3 or 4 Bananas.
Castor Sugar.
Method. - Peel the bananas, cut them in two
lengthways and then once across, making four
Frying Batter.
Wine or Lemon Juice.
196
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pieces in all. Lay these pieces on a plate,
sweeten and flavour, and let them lie for a few
minutes. Finish off in the same way as Apple
Fritters.
Peach or Apricot Fritters
{Fr. Beignets d'Abricots ou de Peches)
Ingredients -
Peaches or Apricots.
Mkcaroon or Biscuit-crumbs,
Castor Sugar.
Maraachino or other flavour-
ing.
Tvymg Batter.
Metliod. - Cut the fruit in halves or quarters,
and remove the stones. Sprinkle the pieces with
sugar and a few drops of maraschino, and roll
them in macaroon or other biscuit-crumbs before
dipping them in the batter. Finish in the same
nuiiuier as Apple Fritters.
Note. - Tinned fruit does very well for these
if it is drained.
Souffl6 Fritters
(Fr. Beignets Souffles)
Ingredients -
5 oz. Flour.
2 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Castor Sugar.
3 Eggs.
i pint Water.
Flavouring.
A pinch of Salt
Method. - Put the water, butter, sugar, and
Bait into a stewpan, and bring them to the boil
over the fire. Then draw the pan to the side
of the fire, and add the flour which has been
previously passed through a sieve. Mix all
briskly with a spoon until it becomes a perfectly
smooth paste. Stir this paste for a minute or
two over a moderate fire, then remove the pan
from the fire, and add the flavouring and one
egg. Work the paste well until the egg is com-
pletely mixed in, then add the other two eggs
one at a time, beating well between each. Let
it stand till cold. \Vhen ready to serve, drop a
spoonfxil at a time into hot fat, and fry to an
amber colour. Fry only a few at a time, as
more cools the fat too much, and also they
require room to swell. The paste will puff into
hollow balls, and increase throe times in size.
When ready, drain well on sugared papei, and
arrange in a pyramid on a dish. Serve with
lemon or orange sauce.
PIES, TARTS, AND SWEETS WITH PASTRY
Small Apple Dumplings
Ingredients -
Short Crust (p. 164).
6 .Apples.
IJ oz. Demerara Sugar.
1 oz. Butter.
Orated rind of J Lemon.
Method. - Roll out some short crust rather
thinly, and cut out six rounds about six inches
in diameter with a cutter or saucepan lid. Wet
round the edge of these rounds ^vith cold water,
and place an apple peeled and cored whole in
the centre of each. Put the butter, sugar, and
grated lemon rind on to a plate, and mix them
together with a knife. Fill up the holes in the
apples with this mixture. Draw up the edges
of the pastry so that they meet on the top of the
apple, and roll the apple in the hands to make
it a good shape. Place the apple balls as they
are ready on a wetted baking-tin with the join
downwards, brush them over with water or
slightly beaten white of egg, and dredge with
sugar. Bake in a moderate oven from twenty
to thirty minutes. When ready, the apples
should be soft, and the pastry nicely browned.
Serve hot or cold on a dish with a dish-paper
on it, and dredge again with sugar.
Note. - Ground cloves, ginger, or cinnamon
may be used for flavouring the butter and sugar
instead of lemon rind.
Apple Pudding
Ingredients -
Suet Crust (p. 164).
1 lb. Apples.
2 table-sp. Cold Water.
i lb. Sugar.
A little grated Lemon Rind
or 2 or 3 Cloves.
Method. - Wipe the apples with a damp cloth
and peel them thinly. Then cut them in
quarters, remove the cores, and slice them
thinly. Roll out the pastry to about quarter of
an inch in thickness, grease a basin, and line it
with it. Press the pastry well on to the sides
of the basin, and try to keep it of a uniform
thickness. Cut off the trimmings, and roll thona
out in a round shape, large enough to cover the
pudding. Fill up the basin with the apples,
sugax, and flavouring, pressing them well down,
as the fruit sinks considerably when cooking.
Wet the edge of the pastry which Unos the basin,
put on the cover, and press the two edges well
together. Dip the centre of a pudding-uioth in
boiling water, and dredge it with flour. Tie
this over the top of the pudding, and plunge it
into a saucepan of fast-boiling water. Boil
quickly for two hours at least. More boiling
water must be added as required. When ready,
turn out on a hot dish, and serve at once.
Notes. - (1) Any other fruit may be used
instead of apples, and the amount of sugar will
vary according to the acidity of the fruit. Goose-
Ijerrios must be topped and tailed and washed
in cold water ; plums washed in cold water, and,
if time permits, stoned ; rhubarb wiped and cut
in small pieces. All fruit must be carefully
prepared before being put in.
(2) The pudding may be baked instead of
boiled ; a piece of greased paper should then be
twisted over the top of the basin.
(3) Short crust may bo used instead of suet
crust if the pudding is baked.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
197
Apple Tart with Meringue
Short Crust
Ingrediei}Js -
lib. Butter.
C oz. Flour.
2 oz. Corn-flour.
1 oz. Sugar.
1 yolk of Egg.
I tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A squeeze of Lemon .Juice.
Cold Water.
Apple JIixture
1 lb. Apples'tweighed after
peeling).
The Rind of J Lemon.
J lb. Sugar.
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls Water.
2 yolks of Eggs.
3 whites of Eggs.
Meringue
I 3 oz. Castor Sugar.
Method. - First make some short crust with
the ingredients given above, and according to
directions given on p. 164. Wet a dish with
cold water, and cover it with the pastry rolled
out rather thinly. Trim round the edges, and
prick all over the foot with a fork. Then roll
out the scraps of pastry and cut from it bands
about two inches in width. Wet round the
pastry covering the edge of the dish, and lay
the band round. Wliere there is a join wet one
edge with cold water, and fix the two pieces as
neatly as possible. Then decorate round the
edges according to taste, and bake the pastry
in a moderate oven for about half-an-hour, until
brown and crisp. Meanwhile prepare the apple
mixture. Peel the apples, and then weigh them.
Slice them thinly, and put them into a stewpan
with the sugar, lemon rind, and a very little
water. Allow them to stew slowly until quite
soft and pulpy, and rub them tlirough a hair or
wire sieve. Add to th<^m the two yolks of eggs,
and put the mixture into the covered dish.
Whip the wliites of eggs to a stiff froth, add the
sugar sifted to them, and pile this roughly on
the top of the apples. Dredge a little sugar over,
and return the tart to a slow oven to dry and
brown the meringue. About fifteen minutes will
be required. This tart may be served hot or
cold.
Almond Cheese Cakes
(Fr. Tartelettes aus Amandes)
Ingredients -
6 oz. Castor Sugar.
3 oz. Sweet Almonds
(ground).
3 to 4 whites of Eggs.
Short Crust or Puff Pastry.
Method. - Sieve the sugar into a basin, and
add the ground almonds to it, with a good squeeze
of lemon or the orange-flower water. Then add
three or four whites of eggs, according to size,
and beat all with a wooden spoon or spatula.
Tlie mixture must be of a creamy consistency.
Line some patty tins with any good pastry,
and put a little jam at the foot of each. Then
fill them up with the almond mixture. Lay
two tliin strips of pastry across the top, and
A little Jam.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice
or 1 tea-spoonful Orange-
Uower Water.
dredge the tartlets with sugar, which will
give them a cracked appearance when baked.
Bake in a rather slow oven about three-quarters
of an hour. If baked too quickly, they will rise
and then fall again. When ready, they should
be nicely browned, and feel firm to the touch.
Tliis amount of mixture should fill twelve cases.
Chocolate Tartlets
(Fr. Tartelettes au Chocolat)
Ingredients -
3 Macaroons.
1 table-sp. grated Chocolate.
J pint Milk.
2 yolks of Eggs.
Castor
1 dessert-spoonful
Sugar.
A few drops of Vanilla.
Short Crust or Puff Pastry
Method. - Line some dozen small tartlet tins
with any good pastry, but do not bake them.
Put the chocolate into a saucepan with the
milk, and let them simmer for about ten
minutes over the fire, then add the macaroons
crushed to a powder, and simn:ier a few minutes
longer. Remove the pan from the fire, and add
the sugar, flavouring, and yolks of eggs. Mix
well, and fill the Hned tins with this mixture.
Lay some narrow strips of pastry in a trellis-work
pattern over the top, wetting one edge of pastry
wherever a join is made. Bake in a good oven
for about twenty minutes ; then brush the
tartlets over with slightly beaten wliite of egg,
and sprinkle them with sugar.
Lemon Curd Cheese Cakes
(Fr. Tartelettes au Citron)
Ingredients -
i lb. Castor Sugar. 3 yolks of Eggs.
3 oz. Butter. 2 whites of Eggs.
2 Lemons. Tartlet Cases (p. 199).
2 Finger Biscuits.
Method. - Sieve the sugar on to a plate, grate
the lemon rind on the top of it, and work the
two together with a knife until of a uniform
yellow colour. Tlien put this sugar into a sauce-
pan with the butter and eggs slightly beaten
and the finger biscuits made into crumbs. Stir
all gently over a slow fire until the mixture
thickens and becomes Uke honey. Then pour
into jars, and cover tightly with parchment
paper. If stored in a cool place, tliis will keep
for some time.
When tartlets are wanted"fill pastry cases with
the mixture, and warm in the oven, or they may
be served cold.
Or this lemon mixture may be used instead
of jam for an open tart.
Gooseberry Tart
{Fr. Tourte aux Groseilles Vertes)
Ingredients -
Short Crust. I 2 table-spoonfuls Water.
1 lb. Gooseberries. I J lb. Sugar.
Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries and
wash th'em in cold water. Put them into a
198
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pie-disli in alternate layers with the sugar,
making the last layer gooseberries. Have tlio
fruit piled liigh and well away from the sides of
the dish. Make some sliort crust (p. 1C>4) and
roll it out rather thinly. Wot round the edges
of the pie-dish with cold water. Cut a strip an
inch wide off the pastry, and lay it roimd the
dish. Press it well on, and whore there is a
join wet one of the edges with cold water and
press the two together. Then wet roimd again
with cold water, and lay on a piece of pastry
large enough to cover the top. Ease this on
slightly, and press the two edges well together.
With a sharp knife cut off tlie larger pieces of
pastry hanging round the dish, then hold up
the dish in the right hand, and with the left trim
neatly round the edges. Wlien cutting, take
sharp quick strokes, cutting always from you,
and slanting the knife outwards from the dish
to avoid cutting the pastry too close. Then
with the back of the knife mark round the edges
of the pastry. jNIake the marks quite close
together, and as neat as possible. Next flute
round the edges by drawing the knife quickly
upwards and towards you, and being careful to
make the flutes an equal distance apart.
Brush the pie over with beaten white of egg
or a little cold water, and dredge well with sugar.
This is to glaze it, and should be done just before
the pie is put in the oven. Then with a skewer
make four small holes at the sides of the pie, to
£dlow the steam to escape while cooking. Bake
in a moderate oven about one hour, or until the
gooseberries are cooked and the pastry is nicely
browned. When ready, lift out of the oven
and wipe the dish well with a damp cloth.
Sprinkle the tart with castor sugar, and serve
either hot or cold.
Note. - Any other fniit tart may be made in
the same way. All fruit must be carefully
prepared before being used, and sugar added
according to the acidity of the fruit. A mixture
of fruits may also be used.
Marigold Tartlets
Ingredients -
Pufl or Flaky I'astry.
Apricot Jam.
Sweet Almonds.
Angelica.
Method. - Roll out some jjuff or flaky pa.stry
rather thinly, and stamp it in rounds with a
cutter about 2\ inches in diameter. Place those
rounds on a baking-tin, prick them with a fork,
and bake in a good oven from ten to fifteen
minutes. When ready, lift them on to a sieve
aid let them cool. To finish put a small
tea-spoonful of apricot jam on the centre of each
round of pastry. Stick thin shreds of blanched
almonds round this to imitate the petals of a
marigold, and then garnish with a few small
leaves of angelica.
Mincemeat
Ingredients -
J lb. Suet.
J lb. Valencia Raisins.
\ lb. Sultana Raisins.
i lb. CuiTants.
} lb. Figs.
J lb. Apples.
1 lb. Sugar.
2table-sp. ^larmalade.
3 oz. Citron Peel.
3 oz. Lemon Peel.
3 oz. Orange Peel.
6 oz. Sweet Almonds.
1 dessert-sp. Mixed Spices.
Rind and juice of 2 Lemons.
2 glasses of Brandy.
1 glass of Rum.
Method. - First prepare the fruit, and as each
article is ready put it into a large crock or basin.
Pick and clean the cui-rants and sultanas. Stone
the raisins, peel and core the apples, and chop
these two together with a long sharp knife.
Shred the peel finely, and blanch and chop the
almonds. Remove the stalks from the figs,
wash them in very hot water, and then dry and
cut them in small pieces. Add the spiCQ to the
fruit, also the suet finely chopped, and the lemon
rind grated, and mix tlioroughly with the hands.
Tlien add the marmalade, lemon juice, rum,
and brandy, and mix again. Cover and stand
in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Then
mix once more, and pack into pots or jars.
Tie a piece of parchment over the top of the
pots to make them perfectly air-tight, and keep
the mincemeat in a cool place. Do not use for
several weeks.
Note - Tins mincemeat will keep quite good
for a year at least. If it should become rather
dry, more wine or spirit may be added.
Mince Pies
Required -
Puff Pastry. | Mincemeat.
Method. - ^Roll out puff pastry to one-eighth
of an inch in thickness, and stamp out rounds
with a cutter three to four inches in diameter.
Fold up the scraps of pastry and roll them out
again, cutting out more rounds as before. (The
first rounds that are cut out are always the best,
so keep these more especially for the top of the
pies.) Wet round the edge of half the number
of rounds with a little cold water, and put a
good tea-spoonful of mincemeat in the centre of
each. Cover with the other rounds of pastry,
and press the two edges well together. Make
a small hole with a skewer on the top of each
pie, brush them over with slightly beaten white
of egg, and dredge them with sugar. Place the
pies on a wetted baking-sheet, and bake in a
good oven for twenty minutes until the pastry
is well risen and nicely browned. When ready,
sprinkle again with sugar and serve hot.
Orange Pudding (Baked)
Ingredients -
2 oz. Cake-crumbs. 1 gill Milk.
2 oz. Castor Sugar. 2 Oranges.
1 oz. Butter. A little Pastry.
2 Eggs.
Method. - Lino a mouium-sizod pie-dish with
GUIDE TO COOKERY
199
any good pastry, and then prepare the mixture.
Wipe the oranges with a damp cloth, and
grate off the rind on the top of the sugar.
Work the rind into the sugar with a broad-
bladed knife until they are of a uniform
yellow colour. Then put this into a basin, and
add the cake-crumbs sieved and the butter
broken in pieces. Heat the milk in a small
saucepan, and pour it over the crumbs, &c.
Stir until the butter is melted, add the yolks of
eggs, the strained juice of oranges, and lastly
the wliites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mix
lightly, and pour all into the prepared dish.
Bake in a moderate oven until set and of a Ught
browTi colour. It will take about three-quarters
of an hour. Sprinkle with sugar and serve hot.
Note. - Lemon Pudding may be made in the
same way, substituting one lemon instead of
the two oranges.
Tartlet Cases
In famiUes where there are unexpected visitors,
it is a good plan to keep some tartlet cases readj'
at hand. With some fresh fruit or preserve
they make a nice sweet for an emergency.
Grease any small patty tins or quenelle-shaped
moulds, and line them with rounds of short crust
rolled out rather thinly. {The rounds of pastry
should be cut rather larger than the diameter
of the tins, to allow of some being taken up in
the depth.) Press the pastry well into the
moulds so that it may take the exact shape,
and prick it all over the foot to prevent it bUster-
ing while baking. Lay a small round of paper
into each, and fill with rice or small beans.
Bake in a moderate oven until the pastry is dry
and nicely browned. Then remove the tartlets
from the tins, empty them of the rice or beans,
and store them in an air-tight tin until wanted.
Tlie pastry for these should be rather stiff and
not too rich.
The cases may be filled with a little jam or
fresh fruit (see below), and some whipped and
sweetened cream may be piled on the top.
Strawberry, Raspberry, or Red Currant
Tartlets
Required -
i pint Fruit.
A little Liqueur or any Fruit
Syrup.
J lb. Sugar.
1 dozen Tartlet Cases.
j gill of Watei.
Method. - Choose nice ripe fruit, pick it, and
put it into a basin. Put the sugar and water
into a saucepan, and boil them to a syrup, but
do not let thein colour. Add a little liqueur or
some fruit sjTup or essence to flavour. Pour
this sjTup over the fruit, and stand in a warm
place for half-an-hour. Then lift out the fruit
carefully, place it in the tartlet ceises, and pour
one or two tea-spoonfuls of the syrup over.
Serve oithar hot or cold.
Note. - A little whipped cream sweetened and
flavoured may be piled on the top.
i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A little Flavouring.
2 table-spoonfuls Jam.
West Riding Pudding
Ingredients -
2 Eggs.
The weight of the Eggs in
Butter, Flour, and Sugar.
Some scraps of Pastry.
Method. - Roll out scraps of any suitable
pastry into a strip four or five inches in width,
and line the sides and edges of a wetted pie-dish
with it. Join the ends neatly, and press the
pastry well on to the rim of the dish and sUghtly
over the outer edge ; then trim round with a
knife. Wet the rim of pastry with a little cold
water, and decorate all round the edge with small
fancy -shaped pieces of pastry. Press these well
on. Put the jam at the foot of the pie-dish, and
then prepare the mixture. Sieve the sugar into
a basin, add the butter, and beat these two
together with a wooden spoon until they are of
a, creamy consistency. Then add one egg and
half the flour sieved, beat well, then the second
egg and the rest of the flour, and beat again.
Flavour to taste, and add the baking powder
at the last. Half fill the pie-dish with this
mixtiu-e, and bake in a good oven for one hour,
or until the mixture is quite set and of a nice
brown colour. Sprinkle with sugar before
serving.
COLD PUDDINGS
Jellies
Tlie Setting of Jellies. - The moulds in wliich
jelHes are to be set should have been well washed
with hot water to render them perfectly'' free
from grease, and then soaked in hot water, or
left filled with cold water up to the tinie of using.
The best moulds for jellies are those which
are made of copper and tinned inside.
The temperatvire at which jelly is moulded
ought to be such that, while still perfectly hquid,
it is not sensibly warm. If poured into the
mould hot it is apt to become cloudy, and there
is Ukely to be difficulty in turning it out.
Wlien putting the jelly aside to cool, see that
the mould stands perfectly even, in order that
the jelly may stand straight and firm when
unmoulded.
The great secret in making jelly that looks
bright is to take pains with the clearing of it.
Tlae right proportions must also be taken, so
that the jelly may hold its shape without being
firm and solid. It is much easier to turn a stiff
jolly out of a mould than one that is just of
sufficient consistency to stand, but a stiff jelly is
never good.
As a rule, a jelly is ornamental in itself,
provided it is bright and is served in an equally
bright crystal or silver dish ; but with different
200
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
flavours, colours, and combinations, a great
variety of more fanciful-looking sweets may
be obt.iuned. Ornament-ation, howovor, requires
care and taste ; unless the decoration is nicely
done, the dish will have a slovenly appearance,
corresponding very much to tawdry finery in
dress.
To Unmould a Jelly. - Take a basin of hot
water, hotter than the hand can comfortably
bear, and dip the mould quickly into it, letting
the water cover it for a second (if a china mould
is used a little longer immersion in the water will
be necessary). Then wipe the moistxu-e off the
mould with a cloth, and loosen the jelly away
from the sidee with tlie tips of the fingers.
Shake the jelly gently until it seems to be loose
in the mould, place the dish on which it is to be
served on the top, and reverse both together.
Give another slight shake, and draw the mould
slowly off.
Jellies aro improved by having whipped cream,
custard, or a pur6e of fruit served with them.
This may either be put round the dish or served
separately.
Apple Jelly
{Fr. Gelee de Pommes)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Apples (weighed after
peeling).
3 oz. Sugar.
3 gills of Water.
The rind of 1 Lemon.
1 oz. Gelatine.
A few drops of Carmine.
J pint Double Cream.
A little Sugar.
A few Pistachio >"uts.
Method. - Peel, core, and slice the apples, and
then weigh them. Put them into a lined stew-
pan with two gills of water, the thinly peeled rind
of a lemon, and the sugar. Stew until reduced
to a pulp, and then rub through a hair sieve.
Melt the gelatine in the remainder of the water
and strain it into the apple pulp. Colour part
of this apple jelly pink with a few drops of car-
mine, and fill a border mould wath alternate
layers of yellow and pink, always allowing one
layer to set before pouring in another. When
quite f\ill, sot in a cool place until firm. Turn
out when wanted, and fill the centre with the
cream, whipped and sweetened.
Decorate with a few chopped pistachio nuts
or other suitable decoration.
Bananas in Jelly
(Fr. Gelee aux Bananes)
Ingredients -
Bananas. i Pistachio Nuts.
Lemon or Wine Jelly. 1
Metfiod. - Pour into a plain mould enough
sweet jelly to cover it to the depth of quarter
of an inch. Peel the bananas, and cut them in
shces with a silver knifo. Place them on the
jelly when it is firm, arranging them in a circle,
one resting on the other. Make a small circle
also in the middle of the mould if it is large
enough. Pour a very little jelly over to keep
tho fruit in position, and let it set. Then cover
with more jelly, and when that is firm put in
more banana, and proceed in this way until the
mould is full. Some blanched and shredded
pistacliio nuts may be used with the bananas,
or the jelly may bo coloured slightly pink with
a few drops of canhine.
Note. - Other fruits such as grapes, straw-
berries, raspberries, red or white currants,
sections of orange, &c., may be set in jelly in
the same way. A mixture of fniits (Alacedoine
de Fruit) sdso looks pretty.
Coffee Jelly
{Fr. Gel6e au Caf6)
Ingredients -
i pint strong Coffee.
J oz. Gelatine.
1 oz. Sugar.
3 or 4 drops of Vanilla.
For the Centre.
1 gill double Cream.
Sugar and Flavouring.
A few pieces of preserved
Cherry and Angelica.
Method. - The coffee must be strong and clear.
Put it into a lined saucepan with the sugar
and gelatine, and dissolve slowly over the firo.
Then strain into a basin, add the vanilla, and
cool slightly. Rinse out a border mould with
cold water, and fill it with the coffee jelly. Set
aside until firm, and turn out when wanted.
For the centre, whip the cream with a fork until
thick, and sweeten and flavour to taste. Pile
this in the centre of the coffee jelly, and decorate
with a few pieces of preserved fruits.
Lemon Jelly
{Fr. Gel6e au Citron)
4 Cloves.
2 oz. Leaf Gelatine.
The rind of 2 Lemons.
Ingredients -
I pint Lemon Juice.
li pints Cold Water.
6 oz. Loaf Sugar.
1 inch of Cinnamon Stick. 2 whites and sheUs of Elggs,
Method. - Take a clean fined saucepan, and
put into it the water, gelatine, sugar, cinnamon
stick, and cloves. Wipe the lemons with a
damp cloth, and peel the rind very thinly off
two of them. Do not peel off any of the white
part, as this would give the jelly a bitter taste.
Tlien roll the lemons on the table to soften
them, cut them in halves, and squeeze out the
juice until there is half a pint. Strain this into
the saucepan, and add the lemon rind and the
whites and shells of eggs. The latter should be
washed and crushed. The pan should not be
more than half full, as the jolly is verj' apt to
boil over. Take a ware whisk, and wliisk the
jolly over tho fire until a good froth rises on it and
it is just bpginning to boil. Watch the jelly care-
fully, and let it boil up as high as it will without
boiling over. Then draw the pan gently to one
side of the fire, where it will keep warm without
GUIDE TO COOKERY
201
simmering, and cover it over with a lid or plate.
Let it stand for ten minutes, and then strain
in the same way as Clear Soup (p. 120). Cover
the stand over with a piece of flannel or blanket,
and let it remain iintil all the jelly has run
through.
Pour the jelly into a mould that has been
rinsed out with cold water, and put it in a cool
place to set. Turn out on a glass or silver dish
when wanted.
The jelly should be strained in a warm place
and out of a diaught. Should it stiffen in the
cloth before all has run through, place a small
basin or cup in the centre and fill it with boiling
water.
Orange Jelly
{Fr. Gelee d'Orange)
Ingredients -
i pint Orange Juice (4 or 5
Orangfis).
The rind ot tTo Oranges.
J lb. Loaf Sugar.
1 oz. Sheet Gelatine.
I pint Water.
The rind and juice of
Lemon.
Method. - Wipe the oranges and lemon with a
damp cloth, and then peel off very thinly as
much rind as is required. Put the rinds into a
small lined saucepan with the gelatine cut in
small pieces, the loaf sugar, and water. Stir
these over the fire until the gelatine is quite
dissolved, and then simmer for ten minutes.
Skim and strain into a basin. Roll the oranges
and lemon on the table to soften them slightly,
cut them in halves, and squeeze out the juice.
Strain and measure this, and add it to the other
ingredients in the basin. Stir occasionally, and
do not mould imtil cool. Pour into a wetted
mould or moulds, and set in a cool place until
firm. Turn out when required, and serve with
cream. Or the jelly may be set in a border
mould, and when turned out the centre filled
with whipped and sweetened cream. Decorate
the cream with chopped pistachio nuts or small
pieces of cherry.
Note. - This jelly may be cleared with the
white of an egg in the same way as Lemon Jelly
(see above).
Port Wine or Claret Jelly
{Fr. Gelee au Vin Rouge)
Jngredienta -
i pint Port or Claret,
i pint Water.
The rind and juice of 1
Lemon.
} lb. Loaf Sugar.
Method. - Put into a small lined stewpan the
water, sugar, red currant jolly, cinnamon, and
cloves. Cut the gelatine into small pieces, and
add it with the lemon rind peeled off very thinly
and the strained juice. Stir over the fire until
the gelatine is quite dissolved. Simmer for a
few minutes, and add the mne. Do not boil
again. Strain tlu-ough a piece of muaUu, and if
1 1 able-sp. Red Currant Jelly.
1 inch Cinnamon Stick.
3 Cloves.
1 oz. Sheet Gelatine.
2 or 3 drops of Carmine.
necessary, add a few drops of cochineal or car-
mine. When nearly cold, pour into one large
or several small moulds that have been rinsed
out with cold water. Set aside in a cool place
until cold and firm. Turn out when required,
and if wished, decorate with whipped and
sweetened cream.
Prune Jelly
{Fr. Gelee aux Prunes)
Ingredients-
1 lb. Prunes.
2 oz. White Sugar.
Rind of i Lemon.
1 oz. Gelatine.
1 inch Cinnamon Stick.
J pint Water.
1 oz. Sweet Almonds.
1 glass Claret.
1 gill whipped Cream.
Sugar and Flavouring.
Method. - Wash the prunes, and allow them
to soak at least half-an-hour in the cold water.
Then put both into a clean lined saucepan, and
add the lemon rind thinly peeled, the cinnamon
stick, and sugar. Stew until quite tender, then
strain off the Uquid, and rub the prunes through
a sieve. Crack the stones, blanch the kernels,
and add them to the pulp. Put the Uquid
from the prunes into a saucepan, add to it the
claret and gelatine, and dissolve carefully over
the fire. Strain this into the pulp, and stir
occasionally until nearly cold. Rinse out a
border mould with cold water, and decorate it
with some sweet almonds, blanched and shred,
fill up with the prune mixture, and set aside in a
cool place until firm. Then turn out, and serve
with wlupped and flavoured cream in the centre.
Decorate with some chopped pistachio nuts
or with a few glac6 cherries cut in small pieces.
Wine Jelly
{Fr. Gelee au Vin)
2 Cloves.
The rind of 2 Lemons.
2 oz. Sheet Gelatine.
2 whites and shells
Ingredients-
i pint Sherry.
1 gill Lemon Juice.
5 gills Water.
J lb. Loaf Sugar. 2 whites and shells of
1 inch Cinnamon Stick.
Method. - Prepare the ingredients and make
the jelly according to directions given for lemon
jelly (p. 200). Set in one large or several small
moulds, and turn out when wanted.
CREAMS
Apricot Cream
{Fr. Creme d'Abricots)
Ingredients -
J pint Apricot Purt5e.
i pint Double Cream.
i oz. Sheet Gelatine.
2 table-sp. Water or Syrup
from the Apricots.
2 oz. Castor Sugar.
Squeeze of Lemon Juice.
A few drops of Carmine.
Decorations.
Sweet Jelly. Pieces of
Apricot and Pistachio Nuta
or Glace Cherries.
Method. - Rinse out a mould with cold water
and leave it wet. Then decorate the top of it
202
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
with some lemon or wine jelly, and small pieces
of apricot and chopped pistacluo nuts, or any
other suitable decoration. Set this aside imtil
the jelly stiffens. Make the piu-6e by rubbing
tinned apricots tlirough a hair sieve. Use a
little of the sjTup from the tin, so that the pur6e
is not too thick, and weigh the half pint after
sieving. Put the pur^ into a basin, and stand
the basin over a saucepan of hot water until the
contents are slightly warm. If quito cold, the
gelatine would not mix well with it. Cut the
gelatine into pieces with a pair of scissors, and
put it into a small saucepan ^\-ith two tablo-
spoonfuls of water or apricot syrup. Stir it
over the fire until quite dissolved, strain it into
the apricot purtkj, and mix well. Add the sugar
and a squeeze of lemon juice. The quantity of
sugar may be regulated according to taste.
Whip the cream in a separate basin until quite
thick, and then mix it lightly to the other in-
gredients. Add enough carmine to make the
cream of a peachy colour, not too pink, and stir
occasionally until beginning to set. Tlien pour
it into the prepared mould, and place in a cool
place or on ice until set.
When required, tiu-n out on a glass or silver
dish, and put a border of chopped jelly round.
Note. - If fresh apricots are used, they must
be stewed first with a little water and sugar.
A Peach Cream (Fr. Creme aux Peches) may
be made in the same way.
Coffee Cream
{Fr. Creme au Caf6)
Ingredients -
i pint Double Cream.
i pint Coffee Custard.
3 oz. Sheet Gelatine.
2 table-spoonfuls Coffee.
A few drops of Vanilla.
1 gill strong Coffee.
1 gill Milk.
3 yolks of Eggs.
1 white of Egg.
2 oz. .Sugar.
Decorations- ii-wtet Jelly and a few pieces of Preserved
Fruits.
Method. - Decorate the foot of a wetted mould
with some sweet jelly and some pieces of pre-
served fruit.
Have ready some very strong and clear coffee,
and put one gill of this and one gill of milk into
a small saucepan to heat. Beat up the yolks
and wliite of egg with the sugar in a basin, and
pour the hot milk and coffee slowly on to them,
stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Re-
turn this to the saucepan, and stir carefully
over the fire until the custard thickens without
allowing it to boil. Remove at once from the
fire and strain into a ba.sin. Cut the gelatine in
pif^ces, and dissolve it in a saucepan with two
table-spoonfuls of coffee, and then strain it into
the cvistard. Add two or three drops of vanilla
and more sugar if wished. Whip the cream and
add it to the custard mixture. Stir occasionally
until the mixture shows signs of setting, and
then pour it into the prepared mould. Set
aside in a cool place until firm. When required,
turn out on a pretty dish, and decorate with
preserved fruits or chopped jelly.
Note. - The decoration may be varied accord-
ing to taste.
Chestnuts in Cream
{Fr. Nid de Marrons a la Creme)
Ingrediejvts -
1 lb. Chestnuts. | i lb. Castor Sugar.
Milk. 1 pint Double Cream.
A small piece of Vanilla. | Sugar and Flavouring.
Decorations- Crystallised Violets.
Method. - To peel the chestnuts, cut them
round lightly with a knife ; put them into a
stewpan just covered with cold water, and boil
for five minutes over the fixe. Then strain and
peel off both the shell and the inner skin. Put
the chestnuts thus prepared into a saucepan,
cover them with milk, and add a small piece of
vanilla. Put the hd on the saucepan, and cook
slowly until the chestnuts are quite tender and
the milk reduced. Crush them in the stewpan
with a wooden spoon, add the sugar, and pasa
aU through a fine sieve. Put the pxiree into a
basin, and stir it for a minute or two to render
it smooth ; if it is too thick, add a little milk to
it, but it is necessary for it to be of a good
consistency.
Form a border round a dish with this chestnut
puree forced through a syringe made for the
purpose, when it takes the form of vermicelli,
or if there is no syringe at hand, simply place a
fine sieve upon a round dish, and pass the chesl -
nut puree through it, forming a border round
the dish. Whip and flavour the cream and pile
it in the centre. Decorate with a few crystal-
lised violets and nuts.
{Fr.
Ingredients -
1 pint Milk.
3 Eggs.
2 table -spoonfuls Sugar.
A pinch of Salt.
Italian Cream
Creme a I'ltalienne)
J oz. Gelatine.
2 table-spooufuls Water.
Flavouring.
Method. - Make a custard with the yolks of
eggs, sugar, and milk. Pour it into a basin,
and add the flavouring and salt. Dissolve the
gelatine in a little water, and pour it into the
custard. Mix well together, and strain all into
another basin. When the custard begins to
stiffen, stir in very lightly the whites of the eggs
beaten to a stiff froth. Turn all into a wetted
mould, and set aside until firm. When wanted,
turn out on a glass or silver dish.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
203
Meringues with Cream
(Fr. Meringues a la Creme)
Ingredients -
3 whites of Eggs. J pint Double Cream.
A pinch of Salt. 1 table-spoonful Sugar.
9 oz. Castor Sugar. A few drops of Vanilla.
Method. - Put the whites into a large basin,
add a pinch of salt, and with a wire whisk beat
thera to a very stiff froth. Sieve the sugar, and
mix it in gently and lightly with an iron or silver
spoon. Place a sheet of white paper all over a
Wooden board or baking-sheet of iron, and place
the meringues on it.
To Shape the Meringues. - You will require
two dessert-spoons, a palette knife, and a jug
or basin of cold water. Take up a spoonful of
the meringue mixture in a wetted spoon, and
with a palette knife also wet, smooth it qmckly
over, piUng it high in the centre and pointed at
the two ends. With the second spoon, scoop
the meringue out, and place it on the prepared
tin or board. Or the meringue mixture may be
put into a forcing-bag, and the shapes forced
out on the tin. Leave a space of half an inch
between each meringue, and sprinkle them with
fine sugar. Place them in a very gentle oven
until they are crisp and deUcately tinted golden.
Turn the paper on wliich the meringues have
been baked upside down upon the table ;
moisten the paper on the back with a brush
dipped in cold water ; five minutes after the
meringues will come off easily. Make each
meringue hollow by pressing with the finger on
the centre of it. place them back on the tin,
and put them again in *he oven for a few minutes
to dry.
Wliip the cream until thick, sweeten and
flavour it. Fill the meringues with tliis, putting
two pieces together, and pile them on a glass or
silver dish.
Notes. - ^In making meringues the stiff beating
of the wliites of eggs is essential, but it is equally
essential that this beating should cease directly
the right consistency is attained, or a broken
curdled appearance will be the result, and the
mixture will be close and heavy. As soon as
the egg froth stands up in solid points on the
withdrawal of the whisk, or wiU allow itself to
be divided with a knife into two separate
halves, stop beating.
The oven will be suitable for cooking meringues
when it has cooled down after other uses, or
■when the fire is allowed to get quite low. One
of the main points in making meringues is their
prolonged and thorough drying in a cool oven.
Instead of baking them on paper, warm an
ordinary baking-tin, rub the bottom of it all
over with white wax, and cook the naeringues
on that.
Meringues may be stored in a tin and kept
for use at any time.
For the filling, any flavouring or liqueur may
i pint Double Cream.
2 or 3 oz. Sugar.
be added to the cream, or smaU pieces of fresh
fruit may be mixed in. The cream may also
be coloured pink with a little carmine.
Rice Cream
(Fr. Riz a I'lmperatrice)
Ingredients -
li pint llilk. J oz. Gelatine.
The rind of 1 Lemon. 2 table-spoonfuls Water.
i lb. Carolina Rice.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Put the rice and milk into a sauce-
pan with the thinly peeled rind of one lemon
and a pinch of salt. Cook until the rice is per-
fectly tender. (A double saucepan is best for
this.) The milk should be nearly boiled away,
leaving the rice very moist. Then add the
gelatine dissolved in a Httle water, the sugar,
and more flavom-ing if wished. A little liqueur
or wine added is a great improvement. Mix
well, and when begiruiing to set, stir in the cream
whipped stiffly. Pour the mixture into a wetted
mould, and allow it to set. Turn out when
wanted on to a glass or silver dish.
Notes. - This is a very white dish, and makes
a dehcious dessert. It may be served alone or
with a puree of apricots poured round it as a
sauce. A compote of fruits may be served
separately, or small pieces of ripe fruits pre-
viously soaked in wine or Uqueirr may be mixed
with the rice mixture before moulding, or, if
liked, the mould used may be first decorated with
some sweet jelly and pieces of fruit.
Strawberry Cream
{Fr. Creme aux Fraises)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Strawberries.
h pint Double Cream.
3 oz. Castor Sugar.
1 oz. pink Gelatine.
2 table-spoonfuls Water.
Squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Decorations- Some Sweet Jelly, Strawberries, and
Pistachio Nuts.
Method. - Rinse out a mould with cold water
and leave it wet. Then decorate the top of it
with some sweet jeUy (in a Hquid state), some
nice pieces of strawberry, and a few chopped
pistacluo nuts. Let this decoration set before
poui'ing in the cream.
Pick the strawberries, and rub sufficient of
them through a fine hair or silk sieve to make
half a pint of puree. Put this puree into a basin,
and stand the basin over a saucepan of hot water
until the contents are slightly warm. Unless
tliis is done the gelatine will not mix properly
with it. Cut the gelatine into pieces, and dis-
solve it in a small saucepan with the water.
Keep stirring it constantly with a wooden spoon
to prevent it sticking to the foot of the pan,
then strain it into the pur^e, being careful not
to lose any. Mix well. If wliite gelatine is
used, a few drops of carmine will reqtiire to be
204
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
added. Put the cream into a large basin, and
with a wire wliisk switch it until quito tliick.
Mix tliis lightly but thoroughly beside the pxir^e,
and add sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Stir this mixture occasionally until it is almost
setting, and then pour it carefully into the pro-
pared mould. Let it stand in a cool place or on
ice luitil it is quite firm. \Vlien wanted, turn
out the cream on to a silver or glass dish \rith
a lace-edged paper on it, and decorate round
with strawlxirry or fern leaves and a few fresh
strawberries.
Note. - Do not allow a strawberry cream to
remain too long in the mould, as it ia apt to
discolour.
Several small moulds may be used instead
of one large.
Raspberry Cream {Fr. Creme aux Framboises)
may be made in the same way, using raspberries
instead of strawberries. A few red currants
may also be added.
Vanilla Cream
(Fr. Creme a la Vanille)
Ingredienis -
i pint Double Creani. Custard.
J pint Custard. 3 yolks of Eggs.
Vanilla Flavouring. 1 white of Egg.
} oz. Sheet Gelatine. i pint of Milk.
2 table-spoonfuls "Water. 1 oz. of Sugai-.
Decorationg-A little Lemon Jelly, a few Cherries, and
I'istacluo Nuts.
Method. - First rinse out a mould with cold
water and leave it wet. Then decorate it at
the foot with some liquid jelly, pieces of cherry
and chopped pistachio nuts. (Any preserved
fruit may bo used for decorating that will make
a pretty contrast to the pale colour of the cream,
or the jelly may bo coloured pink with a little
carmine or cochineal.) Let the jelly at the foot
of the mould set before pouring in the cream
mixture.
To Prepare the Cream. - Make the custard
according to directions given on p. 146. Flavour
the custard with vanilla essence, or it may be
flavoured with vanilla pod by stewing the pod
in the milk for a short time before making the
custard.
Cut the gelatine into pieces with a pair of
scissors, put it into a small saucepan with the
water, and stir over the fire, letting it dissolve
slowly. Then strain into the custard, being
careful not to lose any, and mix well.
Put the cream into a separate basin, and
switch it until thick. Add this to the ctistard
mivture, and stir occasionally until the cream
shi ws signs of setting. Then pour into the
prepared mould, and set aside in a cool place or
on ioe until cold and firm. When wanted, turn
out on a gla'w or china disli, and decorate with
preserved fruits or chopped jelly. A laco-edgod
paper may, if liked, be put on the dish first.
Custard.
i pint Milk.
3 yolks of Eggs.
1 white of Egg.
2 oz. Sugar.
Walnut Cream
{Fr. Creme aux Noix)
Irujrcdicnts -
i lb. shelled Walnuts.
J pint Custard.
i pint Double Cream.
i oz. Sheet Gelatine.
2 table-spoonfuls Water.
Vanilla or other Flavouring.
Decora Kose Leaves crystallised.
Method. - ^Rinse out a mould with cold water
and leave it wet. Decorate the foot with a
little sweet jelly, pistachio nuts, and crystallised
violets or rose-leaves, and allow the jelly to set.
Make the custard as dire^jted on p. 146.
Melt the gelatine in a small saucepan with the
water, and strain it into the custard, being
careful to scrape it well out of the pan. Put
the walnuts on a tin and roast them in the oven
for a few minutes, so as to draw out the flavour.
Then pound them in a mortar or crush them
with a rolling-pin. Add them to the custard
with a little flavouring. Wlaisk the cream until
thick, and mix it lightly in beside the other
ingredients. Stir the cream occasionally until
it is almost setting, and then pour it into the
prepared mould. Place the mould in a cool
place or on ice until the creaiu is firm. Wlien
required, tm-n out on to a glass or silver dish,
and decorate round the edges with a little
chopped jelly and a few crystallised violets.
SIMPLE COLD PUDDINGS
Caramel Custard
{Fr. Creme Renvers6e a la Vanille)
Ingredients -
Caramel.
3 oz. Loaf Sugar.
J gUl Cold Water.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Ctistard.
2 yolks of Eggs and
2 wliole Eggs.
\ pint Milk.
1 dessert-spooiiful Sugar.
Vanilla Flavouring.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Make the caramel according to
directions given on p. 193, and coat a plain
souffl6 tin with it. Allow this to become cold
whilst making the custard. Put the eggs into
a basin with the sugar, flavouring, and a pinch
of salt, and mix them to a cream with a wooden
spoon. Heat the milk and pour it slowly on
to the egg mixture, stirring all the time. Strain
the custard into the prepared mould and cover
with greased paper. Steam very slowly for
one hour, or until the custard feels firm in the
centre ; or bake in a moderate oven with some
warm water round the mould. When the
custard is cold, turn it out on a glass dish. It
will have a glaze some will run round the sides and serve as a
GUIDE TO COOKERY
205
l with some coffee essence (Coffee Caramel
Custard).
Chocolate Custard
{Fr. Creme Toumee au Chocolat)
Ingredients -
3 tablets of Chocolate or2 oz. I 5 yolks of Eggs.
1 gill of Hot Water. i\ oz. fine Sugar.
1 pint MUk. I i whites of Eggs.
Method. - Dissolve the chocolate in a saucepan
with the hot water, add the milk, and let it boil
up. Put the yolks of eggs into a basin with the
sugar, and cream them well together with a
wooden spoon. Add the chocolate little by
little to the eggs, then return all to the saucepan,
and stir over the fire until it thickens. At this
point remove the stewpan from the fire and add
to the custard the whites of eggs beaten to a
stiff froth. Stii' for a minute or two longer
over the fire, but it must not boil. Serve in a
glass dish or bowl.
Chocolate Mould
(Fr. Moule au Chocolat)
Ingredients -
2 oz. Chocolate.
3 gills of ^rilk.
2 yolks of Eggs.
i oz. Gelatine.
1 or 2 oz. Sugar.
A few drops of Vanilla.
Method. - Break the chocolate in small pieces
and put it into a lined saucepan with one gill of
milk. Dissolve slowly over the fire and cook
until smooth. Then remove the saucepan
from the fire and add the remainder of the milk,
the gelatine, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Stir
again over the fire until almost boiling and until
the gelatine is dissolved. Strain into a basin,
add a few drops of vanilla, and cool slightly.
Then pour into a wetted mould and set aside
until firm. Turn out when wanted, and serve
plain or with whipped cream.
Tliis pudding may be made less rich by
omitting the yolks of eggs.
*
Coffee Blanc-Mange
{Fr. Moule au Cafe)
Ingredients -
{ pint Mlk. I J. oz. Sugar.
\ pint strong clear Coffee. | A few drops of Vanilla.
- oz. Corn-flour. 1 oz. Butter.
Metlwd. - Put the coffee and half the milk into
a saucepan to heat, ilix the corn-flour smoothly
with the remainder of the milk and add it to the
hot liquid in the saucepan. Stir over the fire
until boiling, and boil slowly about ten minutes.
Add the sugar, butter, and vanilla, and mix
well. Pour all into a wetted mould, and set
aside vmtil cold.
A^ofe. - A little cream added to this is an
improvement. The coffee used should be very
strong and clear.
Devonshire Junket
Ingredients -
1 pint new Milk. i 1 table-sp. Castor Sugar.
1 tea-sp. Essence of Kennet. i tea-sp. ground Cinnamon,
i glass of Brandy. 1 Clotted Cream.
Method. - Mix together in a glass bowl or
deep dish the brandy, cinnamon, and sugar.
Pour on to these one pint of new milk, or fresh
milk heated to the temperature of new milk,
and add the rennet. Stir it well, and let it
remain until it is set. Then spread some clotted
cream over the top, and sprinkle with castor
sugar.
When well made, junket should cut into
smooth shiny slices like jelly. Unlike jelly, it
will set better and more quickly in a room of
ordinary temperatm-e than in a cold larder.
Gateau of Cherries with Cream
{Fr. Gateau de Cerises a la Creme)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Cherries.
3 gills of Water.
I oz. Leaf Gelatine.
The juice of i Lemon.
J lb. Sugar.
A few drops of Carmine.
1 gill of Double Cream.
Sugar and Flavouring.
Method. - ^Wash and pick the cherries, then
cut them in two and remove the stones. Put
them into a lined saucepan with the sugar,
lemon juice, and water, and stew them gently
until quite tender. Then strain the juice from
the cherries and measure it ; if not three gills,
make up the quantity with water. Return this
juice to the saucepan, and add to it the gelatine
cut in small pieces, and a little carmine. Stir
over the fire until the gelatine is quite dissolved.
Put the cherries into a border mould that has
been rinsed out with cold water, and strain the
liquid over them. Set aside until firm, then
turn out and pile whipped and flavoured cream
in the centre.
Note. - The stones of the cherries may be
broken, and the kernels blanched and added
to the mixture.
The gateau may be further decorated by
putting some fresh cherries and leaves of angehca
round the cream.
Cold Gooseberry Souffl6
Ingredients -
1 lb. Gooseberries. I A little Carmine or Cochi-
1 gill Custard. neal.
6 oz. Sugar. I
Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries and
wash them well. Put them into a lined stew-
pan with the sugar, and stew them until reduced
to a pulp, then rub them through a coarse sieve.
Put this fruit pur6e into a glass dish and pour
the custard over. WTiip up the whites of the
206
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
to a stiff froth, add sugar to taste, and
colour one half pink with a few drops of csarmine
or cochineal. Pile this on the top of the custard
and sprinkle \^-ith a little chopped pistachio nut
or pink sugar.
Orange Custard
(Fr. Creme Renversee a I'Orange)
Ingredients -
2 oz. Castor Sugar.
I oz. Gelatine.
1 table-spoonful AVater.
2 whites of Eggs.
4 yolks of Eggs.
i pint Milk.
2 large Oranges.
Method. - Sieve the sugar on to a plate, and
grate the rind from the oranges on the top of it.
Rub those two together with the fingers until
thorouglily blended, and then put this orange
sugar into a basin. Add to it the yolks and
whites of eggs, and beat together for a few
minutes. Heat the milk, and pour it gradually
into the basin, stirring all the time. Then
return all to the saucepan, and stir carefully
over the fire until the custard tliickens, but do
not let it boil. Remove quickly from the fire,
and strain into a basin. Dissolve the gelatine
in a very little water, and strain it into the
custard, also the orange juice. Stir occasionally
until lukewarm, then pour into a wetted mould,
and set in a cool place imtil firm. TWn out on
a glass or silver dish.
Note. - The mould may, if liked, be decorated
at the top with a little clear jelly set with a few
small sections of orange.
Raspberry Sponge
Ingredients -
Rind and juice of 1 Lemon.
1 oz. Sugar.
2 whites of Eggs.
1 gill of Water.
i oz. Gelatine.
4 or 6 table-spoonfuls Purde
from fresh Raspberries.
2 or 3 drops of Carmine.
Method. - Wipe the lemon, and peel off the
rind as thinly as possible. Put the rind into a
saucepan with the gelatine, sugar, and water,
and dissolve slowly over the fire. Then strain
into a basin, and cool slightly. Add the whites
of eggs, carmine, lemon juice, and raspberry
syrup or puree, and whisk all together until
thick and frothy. Pile up in a rocky manner on
a glass dish, and sprinkle with a little grated
oocoanut or chopped pistachio nuts.
Note. - Strawberry sponge may be made in
the same way, using strawberry instead of
raspberry pur6e.
Rhubarb Mould
Ingredients -
1 bunch of Rhubarb.
Gelatine.
Sugar.
Carmine or Cochineal.
Water.
1 gill Double Cream.
Method. - Wipe the rhubarb, but do not peel
it. Cut it into short lengths, and put into a
lined saucepan with enough water to cover it,
and sugar to taste. Stew slowly until the
rhubarb is reduced to a pulp, then strain througli
a fine strainer or hair sieve, pressing well with a
wooden spoon in order to obtain all the juice.
^Measure this juice, and retmn it to the sauce-
pan, adding French leaf gelatine in the pro-
portion of 1 oz. to each pint of liquid. Stir
carefully over the fire until the gelatine is dis-
solved ; add a few drops of carmine or cochi-
neal, and taste if sufficiently sweetened. When
slightly cooled, pour into a wetted mould and
set aside until firm. Then turn out and serve
with whipped and sweetened cream.
COMPOTES AND FRUIT SALADS
Compote of Apples
{Fr. Compote de Pommes)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Apples.
J lb. Loaf Sugar,
i pint Water.
The juice of J Lemon.
A few drops of Carmine
or Cochineal.
Method. - Put the sugar, water, and lemon juice
into a clean lined saucepan, and let them boil
quickly for ten minutes. Meanwhile peel the
apples, cut them in quarters, and remove the
cores. Throw the pieces into the boihng syiup,
and let them cook slowly until clear and tender,
but not broken. Then remove the quarters of
apple carefully, reduce the syrup a little, and
colour it pink with a few drops of carmine or
cochineal.
Arrange the apples on a glass dish and pour
the sjTup over.
Notes. - If the apples are small, they may be
cored and cooked whole.
A httle wine may, if liked, be added to the
syrup.
A little cream or custard served with the com-
pote is a great improvement.
Compote of Cherries
{Fr. Compote de Cerises)
Ingredients -
1 lb. Cherries. i Juice of 1 Lemon.
J lb. Sugar. I
Method. - Wipe the cherries carefully, and
separate them one from the other. Trim the
stalks \vnth a pair of scissors, leaving only
from an inch to an inch and a half on each.
Put the cherries into a lined saucepan with the
sugar, and strain in the lemon juice. Put the
lid on the pan and stew gently for ten minutes,
or until the cherries are cooked without being
broken. Lift them carefully on to a glass dish,
and pour back into the saucepan any juice which
may be round them. Boil this juice a few
minutes longer, and then pour it over the
cherries.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
207
2 table-spoonfuls Port Wine.
J pint Cold Water.
Juice of i Lemon.
2 or 3 Cloves.
Compote of Pears
(IV. Compote dљ Poires)
Ingredients -
IJ lb. Pears.
i lb. Loaf Sugar.
A few drops of Carmine.
1 inch Cinnamon Stick.
Metliod. - Put into a lined saucepan the sugar,
water, lemon juice, cloves, and cinnamon stick,
and allow these to boil for ten minutes. Peel
the pears, cut them in halves or quarters, ac-
cording to size, remove the cores, and stew them
slowly in the syrup until tender, from half to
one and a half hoixrs. When nearly ready,
add the wine and carmine.
Serve the pears in a glass or silver dish, allow
the syrup to cool slightly, and then strain it
over.
Compote of Strawberries
Pick the strawberries and pile them on to a
glass dish. ^lake a syrup. Put into a saucepan
I lb. of loaf sugar and i pint cold water ; let
this boil until reduced to half the quantity,
flavour with lemon juice, brandy, or Hqueur,
and colour pink with a few drops of carmine.
Allow the sjTup to cool slightly, then poxir it
over the strawberries. Keep the compote in a
cold place or on ice for one hour before using it,
and serve whipped cream separately.
Fruit Salads
{Fr. Salades de Fruits)
Almost any fruit may be employed in the
making of a salad, such as strawberries, rasp-
berries, white, red, o.- black currants, grapes,
oranges, bananas, pears, peaches, apricots, &c.
The fruits must all be di-y and perfectly ripe.
Hard or unripe morsels will spoil any salad.
The salad may be composed of several kinds
of fruit according to the season of the year,
or merely of one or two fruits. Sometimes a
small quantity of nuts, grated cocoanut, poiuided
almonds, or pounded walnuts is mixed with the
fruit.
Oranges should be skinned, every particle of
white pith removed from them, cut in slices, or
divaded in sections, and the pips taken out.
Plums peeled, cut in halves or quarters, and
stoned. Grapes cut in two and the seeds re-
moved. Bananas, apples, pears, peaches, &c.,
peeled and cut in small pieces or dice. All the
cutting of the fruit must be done with a silver
knife. A crystal salad bowl, or, failing that, a
deep compote dish is the best to use for the
purpose.
Pui-e white sugar and wine suited to the fruit
form the dressing. For 1 lb. of fruit allow
I lb. sugar and about \ pint wine. Tm-n the
fruit over occasionally after the fruit has been
added, that it may all be thoroughly satiu-ated.
The kird of wine to use for the dressing is
pretty much a matter of taste.
For a salad composed principally of hght-
coloured fruits, such as apricots, peaches, pine-
apple, pears, &c., use a light sweet wine such £is
Madeira or sherry.
For strawberries and raspberries claret or
port is preferable, while with oranges or bananas
a white wine should be used. A table-spoonful
of liqueur or brandy is an improvement to any
salad.
ICES
Our American cousins have always been
experts at the art of making ices of every kind
and variety. It may be said, indeed, that ice
in some form or other is never absent from the
American dinner-table, if it is only represented
by iced water, or some of those delicious iced
drinks for the concoction of which the Americans
are so famous.
Of late years the cult of the " ice " has become
somewhat pronounced in England also. No
dinner-party with any pretence to that name is
considered complete without an ice pudding or
ice-creams to give the finishing touch to the
menu, whilst yoimg people invited to join in
even the smallest of " small and early " dances
would feel distinctly aggrieved if the delectable
" ice-cream " failed to be included in the refresh-
ments provided.
When ordered from the caterers, however,
ices are apt to be somewhat expensive luxuries,
and for that reason, however festive the occa-
sion, they but seldom figure in the menu of
families where ways and means form an im-
portant consideration. There is no reason,
however, why people of the most slender means
shoiild have to restrict their menu in this
direction, for ices can be easily made at home,
and at a very small cost.
There are many inexpensive machines now on
the market, and quite a good practical one for
family use (2 quarts) can be bought for 8s. or 10s.
The working of the different machines varies
somewhat; with some a freezing mixture is used,
and with others a mixture of ice and coarse salt.
Fxill directions for use are issued with each
special make of freezer.
The accompanying diagram shows one of the
Freezing-Pail.
simplest forms of freezing machines, and ia
manufactured by Thomas Bradford & Co.,
High Holborn, London.
Before giving recipes for different kinds of
208
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ices it will be as well to give a few general
directions for freezing.
First of all be most particular to have every
part of the freezer scrupulously clean, and then
see that it is properly charged witli ice and salt.
loe alone cannot produce a siifficient degree of
cold, therefore salt is used in the proportion
of one part salt to tliree parts ice. Tlie salt
should be broken up into small pieces about the
size of a marble. Tliis may be done by means of
&n ioe-pricker or with a large hat-pin. Pack the
Ice-Pricker.
sides of the pail with three inches of ice and one
inch of salt in alternate layers imtil within an
inch from the top of the pot, and keep pressing
the mixture down with an ico-spaddle or strong
wooden spoon in order to make it close and
compact. When ready, remove the hd from
Ice-Spaddle.
the pot, pour in the mixture to be frozen, and
re-cover quickly. The pot should not be more
than three parts full, and the greatest care must
be taken in opening and shutting that no salt
is allowed to enter, or the mixture would be
entirely spoilt. Now turn the handle at the
side of the machine with a slow and regular
motion until the mixture is sufficiently frozen.
Aa the freezing process proceeds the turning
of the handle will become gradually harder.
The dasher inside the pot is continually scraping
the frozen mixture from the sides and mixing it
thoroughly, so that there is no occasion to open
the can until the freezing is sufficiently advanced.
The time required for freezing will vary
somewhat according to the make of the machine
used and the kind of mixttire being frozen.
It is always better if an ice can be made some
time before it is required, as the flavour becomes
blended with standing. The pail must be kept
well packed and more ice and salt added as
required. The water, too, should be run off
from time to time by the hole to be found iu the
side of the pail.
Tf the iced mixture has to bo krpt some time
remove the dash-wheel from the pot and plug
up the hole in the lid with a cork. Pack up
with plenty of ice and salt, and cover the pail
with a piece of thick flannel or felt. The ice
will then remain in a frozen condition for
sceral hotirs, or even longer if more ice and
salt is added when required.
Water Ices
Water ices may bo divided into several
different classes according to whether they are
made with fruit juice, fruit pur6e, or liqueur
or perfume. The last-named are seldom used
alone, but generally aa an aecompaniment or
filUng to another ice. Tlie following recipes
will serve as a guide from which many other
varieties may be made.
In the making of all water ices a syrup of
sugar and water is required as below.
Syrup for Water Ices
Tlie juice of J a Lemon.
Pro port loTUi -
1 pint Water.
J lb. Loaf Sugar. |
Method. - Put the sugar and water into a
hned saucepan, bring to the boil and boil for ten
minutes, removing any scum that rises. Add
the lemon juice and strain through fine muslin.
Class I
Make with fruit juice and syrup.
Orange and Lemon Water Ice
{Fr. Glac^ de Citron et d'Orange)
Proportions -
i pint Orange Juice. i 1 pint Synip as above.
} pint Lemon Juice. I 2 whites of Eggs.
Method. - Pour the syrup while still hot over
the thinly peeled rind of two oranges and two
lemons. When cold add the fruit juice and
strain all through muslin. Put this mixture
into the freezing-pot, and when half frozen mix
in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Continue the freezing process until the ice is
svifficiently stiff for serving.
Note. - Either orange or lemon juice may be
used separately, but the above makes a nice
combination.
Red Currant Water Ice
{Fr. Glace de Groseilles)
Proportions -
1 pint Red Currant Juice. i 2 Whites of Eggs.
1 pint Syrup for Ices. I
Method. - Extract the juice from the red
currants in the same way as for red-currant jolly
(p. 230), and then procood in the same way as
for orange and lemon water ice.
Note. - Black Currant Water ice can be made
in the same way. A few drops of carmine
should be added.
Class II
Made with fruit pur6e and syrup.
Strawberry Water Ice
(Fr. Glace de Fraises)
Proportions -
1 pint Strawberry Pure6. ■ l"he Juice of 1 Lemon.
1 Pint Syrup for Ices. I A few drops of Carmine.
Method. - Prepare the ptir6e by rubbing some
fresh strawberries through a hair sieve (or
GUIDE TO COOKEKY
209
bottled strawberries may be used). Add the
lemon juice, and deepen the colour if necessary
by adding a few drops of liquid carmine. Freeze
as directed on p. 208.
Note. - The following ices can be made in the
same way by using the different purees of fruit :
apple, apricot, banana, pineapple, and raspberry.
With the more acid fruits the lemon juice must
be reduced in quantity or omitted altogether.
The harder fruits will reqiiire to be stewed before
the puree is made. A httle liqueur is sometimes
added.
Tutti-Frutti (Mixed Fruit Ice)
(Fr. Tutti-Frutti Glaces)
Proportions -
1 pint Xemon or Orange 1 J lb. Mixed Fruits.
Water Ice. ' 1 table-spoonful liqueur.
Method. - Take any kind of fruit, fresh, tinned,
or glace, and cut them up into dice. Sprinkle
them with some liqueur and then stir into half-
frozen water ice. Continue the freezing and
serve in small cups.
Class III
Made with syrup and either perfume, such as
orange flower water or rose water, or a liqueur
of some kind such as maraschino or noyeau.
Orange Flower Water Ice
{Fr. Glace k la Flem- d'Orange)
Proportions -
1 gill Orange Flower Water. I 2 drops Essence of Almond.
J pint Syrup for Ices. ,
Method. - The very best French make of
orange flower water must be used for this.
Mix all the ingredients together and freeze.
Cream Ices
Cream ices may also be divided into the
following different classes :^
Class I
Made with cream and custard with some
special flavour.
Vanilla Cream Ice
{Fr. Glace a la Creme de Vanille)
Proportions -
1 pint Double Cream. | Vanilla Pod or Essence.
1 pint Custard. j Sugar.
Method. - Make the custard according to
directions given on p. 146, flavour with vanilla
and sweeten to taste. Allow this to cool and
add the cream lightly whipped. Mix both to-
gether and freeze until of a proper consistency.
Note. - A cheaper ice may be made by using
a simple corn-flour custard and aiding less cream.
Chocolate Ice Cream
{Fr. Glace au Chocolat)
Proportions -
1 pint Custard.
1 pint Double Cream.
2 or 3 oz. Chocolate.
A little Water.
Vanilla.
Method. - Dissolve the chocolate in a little
water and add it to the custard. Flavour with
vanilla and then continue as in preceding
recipe.
Coffee or Tea Ice Cream
{Fr. Creme au The ou Creme au Cafe Glace)
Make in the same way eis vanilla ice cream,
making the custard with equal quantities of
strong tea or coffee and milk.
Walnut Ice Cream
Make in the same way as vanilla ice cream,
adding 6 oz. roasted and ground walnuts to
the custgird.
Ginger Ice Cream
{Fr. Glace a la Creme de Gingembre)
Add 6 oz. preserved ginger cut in small
pieces and a little of the syrup to the custard.
Lemon Cream Ice (Cheap)
{Fr. Glace a la Creme de Citron)
Proportions -
1 pint Custard. I 3 oz. Castor Sugar.
2 Lemons.
A little yellow colouring.
Method. - ^Grate the rind very lightly off the
two lemons, rub it into the castor sugar, and
use this for sweetening the custard. Add the
strained juice of one lemon and a little yellow
colouring. Mix well and freeze.
Orange Cream Ice
{Fr. Glace a la Creme d'Orange)
Make in same way as above, using the juice
of two oranges. Add one or two drops of car-
mine as well as the yellow to produce an orange
colouring.
Class II
Made with equal quantities of cream and pur^e
of fruit.
Apricot Ice Cream
{Fr. Glace a la Creme d'Abricots)
Proportions -
i pint Apricot Pur6e. I A squeeze of Lemon Jutce.
i pint Cream. 1 2 or 3 drops of Carmine.
Method. - Use tinned apricwts and rub sufficient
through a hair sieve to make \ pint. Some of
the syrup must be used along with the fruit, as
the ptu-^e should not be too thick. Mix the
cream lightly whipped with the pur^ and add
0
210
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the lemon juico and enough carmine to make
an apricot colour. Add also a little sugar if
necessary. Freeze as directed on p. 208.
Kote. - Sometimes a little liqueur is added
to this ice.
Strawberry or Raspberry Cream Ice
(Fr. Glace a la Cremc de Fraiscs ou de
Framboises)
Prepeu^ in the same way as above, adding
sugar to taste and enough carmine to make the
ice a pretty pink colour.
The following ices can also be made in the
same way : peach, pineapple, banana, pear, &c.
Note. - The ices in this class may be made
more cheaply by using partly custard and milk
instead of so much cream.
Cream Ices with Fruit Pur^e
Very delicious ices can be made by com-
bining an iced-cream mixture with some pviree
of fresh fruit. For instance, put some lemon
cream ice into some pretty glass cups, and
then a spoonful of raspberry pur^e, which has
been iced and flavoured with a little liqueur.
Pile a little whipped and iced cream on the
top and put the ices in an ice safe or on ice
until required. Or, again, a raspberry ice cream
may be used with a pur^e of raspberries or
strawberries, or a Walnut or coffee cream with
apricot or pineapple, and so on. These ices may
be varied according to individual taste and
the materials at hand.
Method. - The coffee used for this must be
first-rate in quality, freshly roasted and freshly
ground. It should be made rather stronger
than for ordinary use, and must be perfectly
clear. Mix the different ingredients together
and stand until cold. Then freeze until it can
be poured with difficulty. Keep on ice until
wanted. Half milk and half cream may be
used if the above proportions are too rich.
Iced Coffee (Black)
(Fr. Cafe Frappe)
Proportions -
1 pint strong clear Coffee. I 2 oz. Sugar.
1 table-spoonful Brandy. I
Method. - Mix the ingredients together in a
jug and set deep in ice until wanted. Before
serving add a lump of ice, and hand-whipped
and iced cream separately.
To Serve Ices
The simplest way of serving ices is to put
portions svifficient for one person in fancy paper
cases, in pretty glass cups, or on ice plates.
The top may be daintily decorated with a few
crystallised flower petals, such as rose-leaves,
violets, or orange blossom, or even a hght
sprinkling of chopped pistachio nut, but the
decoration must on no account be overdone.
Wafer biscuits should always be served with
ices.
To Mould Ices
If something more elaborate is wanted the
ice may be moulded and turned out in a shape.
The mixture in this case should not be frozen
too hard, or it will not mould prettily. Take
an ice pudding mould and let it be in cold
water some little time before it is required.
Then pack it tightly with the frozen mixture,
cover with a piece of wet white paper and put
on the lid. Seal round the join with a little
lard, which, when hard, will make the mould
perfectly water-tight. Imbed the mould in a
mixture of ice and salt and allow it to remain
from one to three hours.
If an ice safe is used the lard will not be
necessary ; in fact, the mixture might then be
put into any fancy pudding mould, which are
not so expensive as the proper ice moulds.
A mould of some simple pattern is best.
A little ice safe or refrigerator is not the
expensive article it used to be when £3 had to
be given for one of a very small sizo ; 32s. 6d.
will now buy one that is quite sufficient for all
ordinary purposes.
When iced puddings or other moulded ices are
frequently required an ice safe would be found
a great boon, and would simplify their manu-
facture to a great extent. Apart from ice-making,
too, they are most useful in hot weather for
keeping all viands cool and fresh.
To Un mould an Ice
If the mould has been buried in ice, scrape
off the lard and wipe the outside carefullv
Then remove the lid and dip the mould in
cold or slightly tepid water. Wipe i* dry and
invert it on a dish which has a pretty lace-
edged paper on it and draw the mould .-ilowly off.
If it does not come away at once, let it stand
for a minute or two. This unmoulding must
be done with care, and a little practice will
be required to do it nicely. If the outside is
allowed to become too soft some of the mixture
will run down on the dish, and the appearance
of the pudding will be altogether spoilt.
Iced Puddings
Almost any good ice mixture may be made
into a pudding, or a mixture of two or three
kinds may bo used together. A mixture of
fruits cut in small pieces is often added, and
liqueur of some kind is a favourite flavouring.
Wlien two kinds of cream are to be used in
the mould, set the mould on ice and line it
about an inch thick with the heavier of the two
GUIDE TO COOKERY
211
mixtures, and then fill up the centre with another
mixtui'e of a different flavour.
If a cream ice and water ice are being used
together, the cream mixture should be used to
line the mould and the water ice for filling the
centre. Then, again, if the mixtures are being
set in layers, the lightest should be put in first
and the most solid last, as there will then be a
firm foundation for the pudding to rest on when
it is tui'ned out.
Very pretty combinations may be made by
setting the iced mixture in a border mould and
filling the centre with fruit or whipped cream
when it is turned out. For instance, a pink
ice-cream with white whipped cream in the
centre and a few crystallised rose petals to
decorate it, or a lemon-coloured ice-cream
with small pieces of pineapple and whipped
cream in the centre and a decoration of maiden-
hair fern, or, again, a white cream with small
strawberries or raspberries in the centre flavoiu-ed
with a liqueur, and so on ; the variety is almost
endless and leaves room for individual taste
and ingenuity.
Small ices set in separate moulds are often
used as a decoration for larger puddings; they
are often made in the form of fruit or flowers.
A little colovxring is generally used to make
the resemblance more natiu-al. These little
moulds are, however, somewhat expensive,
and as they are not particularly easy to use
the amateur should scarcely attempt them,
as so many pretty dishes can bo made with
less trouble.
Sorbets
A sorbet is a half-frozen water ice, which is
served directly before the roast at a dinner.
It is also fashionable at present to serve a
delicately flavoured sorbet at an afternoon tea
or tennis party. Its preparation is quite simple
and may easily be imdertaken by the unpro-
fessed cook.
The foimdation of a sorbet is always a water
ice of some kind with the addition of one or
more kinds of liqueur and generally some
fruit. It should be served in pretty glass
cups.
Red Currant and Raspberry Sorbet
(Fr. Sorbet aux Groseilles et Framboises)
Proportions -
1 pint Red Currant Water I 1 gill Curagoa.
Ice. I A fevr ripe Raspberries.
Method. - Freeze the ice tmtil smooth, but
not too hard. Stir in the Curagoa and serve
garnished with raspberries which have been
sprinkled with sugar and placed on ice until
cold.
Lemon Sorbet
(Fr. Sorbet au Citron)
Proportions -
1 pint Lemon Water.
1 wine-glassful Maraschino.
1 wine-glassful Rum.
2 table-sp. Mixed Fruits.
Method. - Cut the fruit in small pieces and
marinade it in the liqueur and rum. Half
freeze the lemon water ice and stir in the
fruits, &c. ; freeze a little longer, but do not
make the mixture hard.
Note. - There are several other kinds of ices,
such as souffles, parfaits, mousses, mosco-
vites, &c., but as these are all more troublesome
to make, we feel that it is beyond the scope of
this book to enter into their manufacture.
BREAD, SCONES AND CAKES
PREPARATION OF MATERIALS
Flour. - Ordinary household flour should be
used in all the recipes except where otherwise
stated, as in the case of somi- of the very light
aakes, where Vienna or Hungarian flour is pre-
ferable. It is very important to have the flour
dry, as damp flour would render any cake
heavy. If there is any doubt about the dryness
it will bo safer to warm the floiu- in a cool oven
or on the rack abovo the stovo before weighing
and using it. Floiu- should be sieved for all
cakes, as this not only renders it lighter, but
keeps back any hard lumps it may contain.
For sievmg, use either a very fine wu-e sieve,
or a patent flour-sifter, which can be bought
for about Is. 8d.
Butter or Dripping.- Inferior or tainted butter
should never be used for cakes ; if butter is
used at all, it must be good. In cases where the
butter is rubbed into the flour, the butter should
be as cool and firm as possible ; where it is to
be creamed with the sugar it may be rather
softer, but not on any account oily. If the
butter is very salt it will be better to wash it
in cold water and dry it in a flom-ed cloth before
using. If the butter contains a large propor-
tion of water it should be dried and squeezed
in a floured cloth before using. For many of
tho plainer cakes good beef dripping may be
used instead of butter. Tlie dripping should
be clarified and free from any meat juice, and
any brown sediment should bo scraped from
the foot of it before using. For nursery cakes
212
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
beef dripping is always to bo recommended in
the place of butter.
Sugar. - Take castor or sLftod sugar for "dl
the recipes except where otherwise stated, and
always sieve it before use.
CMdled Peel. - Remove the hard sugar from
the inside, and ^vith a sharp knife shred the peel
very finely. The strip may be left any length
desired, but as candied peel at the best is an
indigestible article it should never be cut in
thick chunks. If the peel is too hard to shred
easily, it may be soaked for a few minutes
in boiling water.
Currants. - Rub these on the top of a sieve
with a little dry flour to clean them and remove
the stalks. Then drop them on a plate a few
at a time to make sure there are no stones
amongst them. If the currants are dii-ty they
may be washed first in hot water, then dried
in a cloth or a cool oven, and rolled in flovir.
This should be done some little time before
the cmrants are required, as they should be
quite dry and cold before being added to the
cake, otherwise they will spoil the mixture.
Sultana Raisins. - Rub these on the top of a
sieve with a little dry flour, and carefully remove
all stalks.
Valencia Raisins. - Remove the stalks, split
them open with a small knife, and take out the
stones, using a little warm water to prevent
them sticking to the fingers. These raisins are
usuallj' cut in small pieces or chopped roughly.
Almonds. - Blanch these by putting them in a
saucepan of cold water and bringing them to the
boil ; then strain and run some cold water
over them. Remove the brown skins and dry
the almonds in a cloth. They are usually shred
or chopped before being used, and it is better
to prepare them some little time before they are
required to ensure their being dry. For decora-
tive purposes they are sometimes split in halves
broadways.
Glac6 Fruits, such as cherries, apricots, ginger,
or pineapple, should have the hard sugar re-
moved from them first by soaking them for a
minute in hot water. Then dry the pieces
lightly, cut them to the size required, and roll
them in flour.
Note. - All fruit should be mixed with a little
dry flour (taken from the quantity given in the
recipe) before being added to the cake mixture.
EXPLANATION OF TERMS
To Beat Eggs (yolk and white together). - If
more than one egg is used, break them separately
first into a small cup or basin to make sure that
each one is fresh. Remove the tread, or the
hard speck in the egg, and mix them all together.
Then with a fork or egg whisk beat them lightly
with an upward motion imtil they are light and
frothy, and the whites and yolks thoroughly
mixed together. Do not over-beat the eggs or
they will not bo so light. Eggs used for cake-
making must be fresh, although not necessarily
now laid.
To Whip the Whites of Eggs. - When only one
or two are used put them on a flat dinner-plate,
being careful that not a particle of yolk gets in.
Add a pinch of salt, and ^^nth a broad-bladed
knife or spatula whip them with an upward
motion to a stif? dry froth, or until so firm that
when the plate is reversed they will not fall off.
^Vhen more than two whites are used put them
into a dry basin, add a pinch of salt, and beat
them with a wire whisk until stiff enough to
stand on the end of the wliisk without dropping.
The whites of eggs ought to be beaten in a cool
place, and if the eggs are fresh and cool, the
beating will only take a few minutes.
To Cream Yolks of Eggs and Sugar. - Sieve
the sugar into a basin, drop the yolks of eggs
on the top, and work the two together with a
wooden spoon or wire whisk until they are of a
pale lemon coloiu' and light and frothy-looking.
To Cream Butter and Sugar. - Sieve the sugar
into a basin, add the butter, and beat the two
together until of a light creamy consistency.
Either a large wooden spoon or the hand may
be used for this. If over half a pound of butter
is being used, it is quicker to take the hand.
If the butter is very hard, the basin may be
warmed slightly before commencing, but the
butter must on no account be oiled, or it will
make the cake heavy. Tliis process requires
some time, and unless it is well carried out the
cake will be hea\'y. The time will depend upon
the quantity of butter and sugar that are used.
To Clarify Butter. - Put the butter into a lined
saucepan, and bring it slowly to the boil. Let it
simmer for a few minutes, then draw the sauce-
pan to the side of the fire, and let it stand until
the butter has ceased to bubble. Tlien, with an
iron spoon, remove all the froth from the top,
and pour the clear oil into a dish ready for uso,
leaving the sediment at the foot of the saucepan.
To Rub Butter into Flour. - Sieve the flour into
a dry basin. Place the butter on the top of the
flour, cover it over, and break it in small pieces
Tlien rub together lightly with the tips of the
fingers and thumbs until as fine as breadcrumbs.
While rubbing, keep lifting the flour well up
in the basin, so that air may mix with it, and
the butter is not niade too soft. Unless this
operation is well carried out, the cake will look
streaky.
PREPARATION OF CAKE TINS
This shoiild be seen to before the mixing of
the cake is commenced, as some cakes will spoil
if the mixture is allowed to stand and wait
because the tins are not ready.
To Line a Round Cake Tin with Paper. - Cut
a double band of paper two or three inches deeper
than the cake tin and rather longer than the
GUIDE TO COOKERY
213
circumference. Fold up an inch of this band on
the double fold and make a mark. Open out
and make cuts along the marked-off inch of
the paper an inch or two apart. Ai'range this
band inside the cake tin, making the notched
part of the paper to Ue flat on the bottom of the
tin. Then cut a double round of paper exactly
the size to fit inside the tin, and lay it smoothly
on the foot. The paper must Ue perfectly flat :
there must be no wiinkles. If the tin used is
very large, three or four folds of paper may be
used. No grease is required ; it would only make
the cake more Uable to burn.
To Line a Flat Tin with Paper.- If the tin is
very shallow the paper will not require to be
shaped, but just pressed in smoothly and snipped
at the corners if necessary.
For Scones or Small Rock Cakes.- A flat baking-
sheet should be greased and sprinkled with
flour ; thpin knock the edges of the tin on the
table so that the flour coats it all lightly, and
then shake off any that is superfluous.
For Sponge Cakes. - Tie a double band of paper
round the outside of the tin and so as to project
two or three inches over the edge at the top.
Then coat the inside of the mould and the paper
with melted clarified butter. This should be
put on with a brush, and the butter should not
be too liquid or the coating is apt to be too thin.
Then pass tlxrough a sieve together one table-
spoonful of flour and one tablespoonful of castor
sugar, and dust over the inside of the mould and
paper with this mixture. Tm-n the mould round
and round until every part is coated, and then
empty out what does not adhere. It is this
preparation which gives the hght dry coating
to a sponge cake.
Small Cake Tins.- Prepare these in the same
way as a tin for a sponge cake by greasing them
with clarified butter and dusting them out with
a mixture of flour or potato flour and sugar.
If two ounces each of flour and sugar are
sieved together, the mixture may be kept in a
tin, and will always be in readiness for the
preparation of cake tins.
When tins are greased only clarified butter or
fresh butter must be used." Any salt in the
butter would be apt to make the cake stick to
the tin and burn. For the plainer cakes good
clarified dripping may be used,
THE BAKING OF CAKES
This is one of the most difficult parts of cake-
making. No matter how carefully the mixture
has been prepared, the success or failure of the
cake will very much depend upon the proper
regulation of the heat of the oven. This requires
very close observance, and it is only by experience
and careful watching that the capabilities and
faults of individual ovens can be learned.
There are one or two populai- tests which may
be applied by novices, such as the following :-
Sprinkle a httle dry flour on a tin and place it
in the oven. If there is sufficient heat to bake
a cake, this will be brown in about five minutes.
Or, put a piece of white paper in the oven, and
if at the end of five minutes it is a good yellow
colom-, the heat is moderate and suitable for
most cakes. Small thermometers can also be
bought to tell the heat of the oven, but as these
are somewhat fragile articles they are not always
satisfactory. Still, if used with care, they act
as a guide. The degrees of heat would be nearly
the following : -
From 350№-400' Fahr.
800'Fahr. .
250№-275' Fahr. .
~ a hot oven.
a moderate oven,
a slow oven.
After a very little experience the heat of the
oven can easily be discriminated by simply
feehng it with the hand.
It is very important that the fire should be
made up some httle time before the cake is to
be put in the oven, and in such a way that it
will last, if possible, during the baking, or will
not at least require fresh coal during the first
hour of baking, when the cake is in process of
rising, and when it is most essential for it to have
steady heat. If a large cake requiring several
hours' cooking is in the oven, the fire should
never be allowed to get too low, except perhaps
the last half -hour when the cake is just " soak-
ing," but a httle coal should be added from
time to time in order to keep up a uniform heat.
The heat of the oven can generally be regu-
lated by opening or shutting the damper. If
shutting the damper is not sufficient to reduce
the heat, the lid of the range over the oven may
be opened a little way. If the oven does not
get hot enough in spite of a good fire, the trouble
probably is that it has not been properly cleaned
of the cinders and soot wliich collect underneath
and above the oven, and prevent the heat
reaching these parts. This is a point which
should be attended to before cake -making is
thought of.
For all cakes, except where otherwise stated,
a moderate oven is best ; if anything, it should
be rather hotter for small and light cakes than
for the thicker fruit cakes.
A cake to be baked to perfection should rise
evenly and be smooth on the top, and by the
time it has been in the oven half its time a hght
brown crust should be formed. Owing to the
variation in the heat of an ordinary oven, it is
not always possible to arrive at this point of
perfection ; still, by careful manipulation, it
may be aimed at. \Vlien a cake rises in a cone
in the centre, it shows that the oven has been
too hot at the commencement, with the result
that the sides of the cake became hardened with
a crust before the mixture had had time to rise.
If the cake seems inclined to rise at one side, it
shows that the oven is hotter on one side than
the other, and this fault may be obviated to a
214
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
certain extent by turning the cake carefully
diu-ing the baking. If tlie bottom of the oven
is found to be the hottest part, it is a good plan
to place an asbestos mat below the cake to
prevent it burning at the foot, or stand the
cake in another tin containing a bod of sand.
Wlien a cake shows signs of becoming suffi-
ciently brown before it is ready, it should be
covered with a double fold of kitchen paper.
The oven door should not be opened for at
least five minutes after the cake has been put
in, and then onlj' with the greatest care. If
by slamming the oven door a draught of cold
air is allowed to enter, it will be fatal to the
successful rising of the cake. Any moving or
turning of the cake must be done very cautiously ;
it cannot have too careful handling. Moving or
shaking the cake during the process of rising is
almost sure to cause it to fall.
Be sure the cake is sufficiently cooked before
removing it from the oven. Small cakes £ire
ready if they feel firm when gently touched with
the finger. Larger cakes should be tested by
running a bright and heated skewer into the
csentre of them. If the skewer comes out sticky
the cake is not cooked enough, but if it is dry
and undimmed the baking is finished. A cold
knife should never be run into a cake, as it would
make it " sad." Cakes should be allowed to
stand for a minute or two before removing them
from the tin ; they will then come out more
easily. (For baking in gas oven, see p. 96.)
The time given for baking in the following
recipes is only approximate ; it is impossible
to lay down any hard-and-fast niles, as the time
is bound to vary shghtly owing to various causes.
Baking Powder
Ingredients -
3 oz. Cream of Tartar. • 3 oz. Ground Rice.
3 oz. Carbonate of Soda. 1
Method. - Pass all these ingredients twice
through a fine wire sieve. Then put the mixture
in a dry tin and store in a dry place.
BREAD AND SCONES
Household Bread
Ingredients -
3J lbs. Flour (a quarter
Stone).
1 oz. German Yeast.
1 t"a-apoonful Sugar.
2 tea-spoonfuls Salt.
About 2 pints lukewarm
Water.
Method - Sieve the flour and salt into a large
basin, and place it in a cool oven, or some other
warm place, to get warmed tlirough, as tiiis will
assist the rising of the broad. Put the yeast
into a smaller basin with the sugar, and mix
these two together until they become smooth
and liquid. (This is called creaming the yeast,
and may lie accomplished with either salt or
sugar.) Add half the water to the creamed
yeast, and mix well together. Make a well
in the centre of the warm floui*, and strain in
the milk and water. Stir in gi-adually from the
sides enough flour to form a thick and smooth
batter, still lea\'ing a wall of flour round the
edges. Cover the basin with a cloth, and set
it in a warm place until the sponge (mixture of
flour, yeast, and water) is well risen. If the
yeast is good, fifteen or twenty minutes will be
sufficient ; the batter should then be covered
with large bubbles. Mix in the rest of the flour
by degrees, adding the rest of the lukewarm
water, or enough to form rather a soft dough, as
it will become firmer with kneading. Turn the
dough on to a floured board, and knead well for
fifteen minutes, or until it ceases to cling to the
hands. Then flour the basin, and put the
dough back into it, making a deep cross cut on
the top from side to side %vith a sharp knife.
Cover the basin, and let it stand in a warm place
again for about one hour, or until the dough is
well risen. It should be about twice its original
size, and the cut on the top almost invisible.
Turn out again on the board, re-knead hghtly,
and make up into loaves the size and shape
desired. For a cottage loaf make one large
ball with a smaller one on the top. Press a
floured finger tlirough the middle of both, and
make four or five cuts at regular intervals round
the sides. For a Cobiu-g loaf form the dough
into an oval shape, and make several deep cuts
across the top. If the loaves are to be baked
in tins, grease the tins first, and do not moro
than half fill them. After shaping the loaves,
place them on a baking-sheet (greased and
floui-ed for the loaves that are not in tins),
and set them to prove for fifteen or twenty
minutes. That is, place them again in a .varm
place to rise - on the rack above the fire is a
very good place. The bread should be covered
with a cloth or piece of paper, to prevent any
smuts from falling on it. To bake the bread,
place it in a hot oven to begin with until the
loaves are well risen and slightly browned, then
in a moro moderate oven until they are cooked
through to the middle. The time will depend
upon the size of the loaf. When ready, the
bread should give a hollow sound when tapped
on the bottoin.
Ingredients -
1| lb. Brown .Meal.
3 giUs Tepid Water.
Brown Bread
2 tea-spoonfuls Salt.
I oz. Yeast.
Method. - Either fine, coarse, or medium
whole-meal may be used, or half quantity
whole-meal and the other half household flour.
Put this into a basin and make a well in the
centre. Mix the yeast with the salt, add the
tepid water and pour into the middle of the
meal. Mix the meal in gradually, making a
smooth but rather soft dough - more water must
GUIDE TO COOKERY
215
be added if required. Knead for a few minutes,
and then put in greased and floured tins. Allow
the dough to rise in a warm place for ono hour
or longer, then bake in a moderate oven.
Ingredients -
1 lb. Vienna Flour.
1 tea-spoonful Sugar.
I oz. German Yeast.
Vienna Bread
1 oz. Butter.
MUk.
1 tea-spoonful Salt.
Method. - Sieve the flom- and salt into a warm
basin, rub in the butter until free from Itunps,
and make a well in the centre. Cream the yeast
in a smaller basin with the sugar, heat the milk
to a lukewarm temperature, and pour it on to it.
Strain this into the middle of the flour, and
mix lightly. Beat all together for a few minutes,
then cover the basin, and put the dough to rise
for about two hours. When the dough is well
risen, turn li out on a floured board, and make
it up into small rolls or a variety of fancy shapes.
One of the prettiest shapes is the horseshoe
twist, which is made as follows : Roll out some
of the dough to about a quarter of an inch in
thickness, and cut it into triangular-shaped
pieces. Then take the two corners at the base
of the triangle, and roll up each piece so that
the other point turns over on the outside.
Another shape is to make small round rolls, and
then to cut two slits across the top with a very
sharp knife. Place the rolls on a greased and
floured tin, and set them in a warm place to
prove for about twelve minutes. Then bake
in a rather quick oven from fifteen to twenty
minutes, according to the size of the rolls.
Just before removing the rolls from the oven,
brush them over with milk, or egg and milk,
to make them shiny.
Note. - Sometimes an egg is added to the above
dough.
Ingredienta-
i lb, Flour.
lEgg.
1 oz. Butter.
Cream Scones
1 gill Sour Cream.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A pinch of Salt.
Method. - Sieve the riovu-, salt, and baking
powder into a basin, and rub in the butter with
the tips of the fingers until free from lumps.
Then make a well in the centre, and pour in
the egg and cream beaten together. Mix from
the centre outwards, gathering in the flour
gradually until all is formed into one lump.
Turn out the dough on a floured board, and
knead lightly until free from cracks. Roll out
to about half an inch in thickness, cut in rounds,
and bake on a greased tin in the oven from ten
to fifteen minutes, or on a greased girdle. If
the latter, brown the scones, first on one side
and then on the other, until they ai-e cooked
through.
Crumpets
lEgg.
Milk.
1 oz. Butter.
Ingredients -
J lb. Vienna Flour.
j tea-spoonful Salt.
I oz. Baking Powder.
Method. - Sieve the flour, salt, and baking
powder into a basin, and make a well in the
centre. Add the butter melted and the egg well
beaten, then gradually enough milk to make a
thinnish batter. Grease some mxiffln rings, and
lay them on a hot and greased girdle. Pour a
little batter into each, and watch until air-
bubbles begin to rise. Then remove the rings,
ttirn the crumpets, and brown on the second sidw.
Repeat this imtil all are finished. Toast the
cnmipets lightly, spread them with butter, and
pile them one on the top of the other. Cut
in four, and serve hot.
Dropped Scones
Ingredients -
1 breakfastcupful Flour.
1 table-sp. Castor Sugar.
i tea-spoonful Cream of
Tartar.
i tea-spoonlul Carbonate of
Soda.
lEgg.
J breakfastcupful Milk.
Method. - Sieve all the dry ingredients into a
basin, and make a well in the centre. Add the
egg well beaten, and then the milk gradually,
beating aU well together with the back of a
wooden spoon. When the batter looks light
and full of air-bubbles pour it into a jug. Heat
a girdle and grease it well. Pour the batter
on to it, about a table-spoonful at a time, being
careful to keep the scones a nice shape and
a little distance apart. When the top surface
looks covered with bubbles, sUp a broad-bladed
knife under the scones and turn them over.
When both sides are nicely browned the scones
are ready. They should be served quickly
and hot buttered.
Elcho Scones
Ingredients -
} lb. Flour. I Egg.
2 oz. Butter. A pinch of Salt.
J tea-sp. Cream of Tartar. Some Buttermilk or Sour
J tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda. Milk.
Method. - Sieve the flour, soda, cream of tartar,
and salt into a clean, dry basin, and rub in the
butter with the tips of the fingers until free
from lumps. Tlien make a well in the centre,
add the egg, well beaten, and enough biittermilk
to form all into one Ivunp. The mixing should
be done very quickly and lightly with the hand
or with a broad-bladed knife. Turn the dough
on to a slightly floured board, and knead lightly
with the hands until free from cracks. Form
into a round (do not roll) about one inch in
thickness, and place the scone on a greased
and floured baking-tin. Prick all over with a
fork, and mark in four with the back of a knife.
216
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Bake in a good oven about twenty minutes.
Two or tlireo minutes before removing the scone
from the oven break it in four, and brush it
over with a little milk or egg and milk.
Tea Cakes
Ingredients -
J lb. Flour. 1 Ejrg.
i oz. Oerman Yeast. } pint Milk.
2 oz. Butter. A pinch of Salt
1 tea-Bpoonful Su^rar.
Method. - Sieve the flour and salt into a warm
basin, and make a well in the centre. Put the
yeast into a smaller basin with the sugar, and
mix them together until smooth and creamy.
I^Ielt the butter in a smaU saucepan, and add the
milk. When lukewarm, pour on to the yeast
and mix well. Strain this into the centre of the
flour, and add the egg well beaten. Mix from
the centre outwards, and then beat with the
hands for a few minutes. Cover the basin with
a cloth, and allow the dough to rise in a warm
place from three-quarters to one hour. Turn
out the dough on to a slightly floured board,
and knead lightly with the hands until smooth
and free from cracks. Form into two or three
round cakes, and place them on a greased and
floured tin. Set the cakes again to rise on the
rack above the fire for ten or fifteen minutes,
imtil they look light and puffy. Tlien bake
them in a good oven from fifteen to twenty
minutes. A few minutes before removing the
cakes from the oven, brush them over with sugar
and milk to give them a gloss. These cakes
should be spht and buttered hot.
A few currants or some very finely chopped
candied peel may be added to the mixture if
wished.
Wheaten Meal Scones
Ingredients -
J lb. NMieaten Meal.
i lb. Flour.
J tea-sp. Cream of Tartar.
1 or 2 oz. Butter.
f tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda.
J tea-spoonful Salt.
Some Buttermilk or Sour
Milk.
Method. - Make in the same way as Elcho
Scones (p. 215).
BUNS AND SMALL CAKES
Almond Rock Cakes
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour.
2 oz. Butter.
2 oz. Sugar.
2 oz. Sweet Alraonda.
A pinch of Salt.
2 or 3 drops of Essence of
Almonds.
lEgg.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A little Milk.
Method. - First blanch and chop the almonds
finely, and put them to dry, but not brown, on
a tin in the oven. Then sieve the flour, sugar,
and baking powder into a basin, and rub in the
butter until free from lumps. Add the prepared
almonds, and make a well in the centre of the
dry ingredients. Add the egg well beaten, the
flavouring, and enough sweet milk to bind all
together. The mixture must be kept stiff enough
for the spoon to stand upriglit in it. Have ready
a baking-tin, greased and sprinkled with flour,
and arrange the mixture on it in small heaps
(one tea-spoonful of the mixture in each) and at
some little distance apart. Sprinkle the cakes
with sugar or with ground almonds and sug£u:
mixed, and bake in a quick oven from ten to
fifteen minutes.
Note. - Cocoanut or Currant Rock Cakes can be
made in the same way, using 2 oz. desiccated
cocoanut or 2 oz. cleaned currants instead of the
almonds.
Ingredients -
J lb. Butter,
i lb. Castor Sugar.
} lb. Sweet Almonds.
7 oz. Flour.
Almond Slices
i teasp. Baking Powder.
3 Eggs.
A few drops of Essence of
Almouds.
Method. - Cream the butter and sugar. Dry
and sieve the flour, and add it by degrees with
the eggs. Then boat for ten minutes until the
mixture looks light and full of air-bubbles.
Add most of the almonds, blanched and finely
slired, the baking powder, and flavouring, and
pom- out on a shallow tin that has been lined
with paper. Sprinkle the remainder of the
almonds on the top, and bake in a moderate oven
for twenty minutes. Wlien the cake is nicely
browned and feels firm to the touch, turn it
out on a sheet of sugared paper, and, when cold,
cut it in neat slices with a very sharp knife.
Chocolate Cakes
Ingredients -
4 oz. Cliocolate.
3 oz. Butter.
4 oz. Castor Sugar.
3 Egga.
3 OZ. Flour.
{ tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Method. - Grate the chocolate and place it in
a jar in the oven or in a saucepan of hot water,
allowing it to melt slowly. Cream the butter
and sugar, then add the yolks of eggs and
chocolate, and beat for a few rainutop. Whip
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and sieve
the flour with the baking powder. Add a little
flour and a little white of egg alternately to the
other mixture until all is lightly blended together.
Half fill small prepared tins (p. 213) with the
mixture, and bake in a moderate oven about
fifteen minutos.
Coburg Cakes
Ingredients-
i lb. Flour.
i tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda.
} lb. Sjrrup.
2 Eggs.
J lb. Sugar.
1 tea-sp. Ground Ginger,
J tea-sp. Ground Cinnamon.
J tea-sp. Allspice.
IJ oz. Butter.
A few Sweet Almonds.
Method. - Sieve all the dry ingredients except
the almonds into a basin, and make a well in
GUIDE TO COOKERY
217
the centre. Melt the butter and syrup in a
small saucepan, and pour them into the middle
of the dry ingredients. Add the eggs well
beaten, and mix all together. Have ready
some small patty tins well greased, and with a
half -blanched almond at the foot of each. Half
fill the tins with the mixture, and bake them in
a moderate oven tliree-quarters of an hour.
3 Eggs.
J tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A few drops of Vanilla.
Cocoanut Slices
Ingredients -
3 oz. Butter.
3 oz. Castor Sugar.
3 oz. Desiccated Cocoanut.
2 oz. Flour.
Icing- i lb. Icing Sugar, the juice of half a Lemon, and a
little Water.
Decorations- 1 oz. Cocoanut and a few Pistachio Nuts.
Method. - Cream the butter and sugar, then
add the eggs and flour by degrees, beating well.
When the mixture looks hght and full of air-
bubbles, add the cocoanut, vanilla, and baking
powder, and mix these in. Pour the mixture
into a shallow tin that has been lined with paper,
and bake in a moderate oven until hghtly
browned and cooked through ; from fifteen to
twenty minutes should be sufficient. When the
cake is ready, turn it out on to a sheet of sugared
paper and allow it to cool.
Tlien prepare the icing. Sieve the sugar and
put it into a small lined saucepan. Strain in
the lemon juice and warm slightly over the fire,
adding a Httle water if necessary. Care must be
taken not to make the icing too liquid, but just
sufficiently so to pour over the cake. Coat the
cake nicely with the ^"ing by means of a spoon,
and sprinkle with the one ounce of cocoanut and
a few chopped pistacliio nuts. Cut in neat
slices whilst the icing is still soft.
Crullers
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A pinch of Kutmeg.
The grated rind of half
Lemon.
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour.
2 oz. Butter.
1 oz. Sugar.
2 Eggs.
Method. - Sieve the dry ingredients into a
basin, and rub in the butter. Add the grated
lemon rind or any other flavouring preferred,
and bind the mixture with two eggs well beaten.
Turn the dough on to a floured board, and work
with the hands until free from cracks. Roll out
to about half an inch in thickness, and cut into
fancy shapes, or make into twists. Have ready
on the fire a saucepan of boiling fat, drop the
erullors into this, a few at a time, and cook
slowly from ten to twelve minutes until they
are a nice brown colour, and have swelled to
double their original size. When the crullers
are ready, lift them out of the fat with a per-
forated spoon, drain them on kitchen paper, and
dredge w^U with sugar. These should be used
while fresh.
Dough Nuts
Ingredients -
J lb. Flour. 1 Egg.
2 oz. Butter. A little Milk.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder. Some Jam.
1 oz. Castor Sugar.
Method. - Prepare the mixture in the same
way as for crullers recipe. Turn out on a
floured board, and roll out to a quarter of an
inch in thickness. Stamp out rounds with a
cutter about three inches in diameter. Put a
small tea-spoonful of red jam in the centre of
haK of these, and brush over the others with
beaten egg. Place two together, one with jam
and the other without, and press the edges well
where they join. Fry as in last recipe.
Genoise Pastry
Ingredients -
6 oz. Flour (Vienna). I 7 Eggs.
C oz. Butter. A few drops of Flavouring.
8 oz. Castor Sugar. |
Method. - First clarify the butter (see p. 212),
and pour into a basin ready for use. Sieve the
flour and put it into a warm place to get thoroughly
dry. Break the eggs into a large basin and sieve
the sugar over them. Stand this basin over a
saucepan of hot water and beat well with a wire
whisk from fifteen to twenty minutes, or until
the mixture looks hght and frothy. The water
in the saucepan underneath ought to be kept
slowly simmering. When ready, remove the
basin to the table and continue the beating a few
minutes longer. Stir in the flour and butter
very hghtly, a little at a time, and do not mix
more than is necessary. Add a few drops of
any flavouring that is liked. Pour the mixture
out on a shallow tin fined with paper, but not
greased. The shape of the tin must depend
upon what the pastry is to be used for. Bake
in a quick oven for about twenty minutes until
lightly browned and firm to the touch. When
ready, turn out on a sheet of sugared paper and
place on a wire stand to cool.
Brown Genoise Pastry. - Melt 2 oz. of un-
sweetened chocolate in a table -spoonful of water
and add it to the above mixtures before beating
up the eggs.
Pink Genoise Pastry. - Add a few drops of
carmine to the above mixtures just before baking.
Note. - Genoise pastry is used for various
kinds of fancy cakes. (For Icing and Decoration,
see p. 227.)
Girdle Cakes
Make some pastry (flaky or rough puff will
do) and roll it out to a quai-ter of an inch in
tliickness. Cut out into squares or oblong-
shaped pieces, and place these on a hot girdle.
Brown first on the one side and then on the
other until the pastry is thoroughly cooked.
Then spUt, butter, and serve hot.
218
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Note. - A few currants may bo rolled into the
pastrj' before cooking.
Ginger Cakes (Small)
A few drops of Ginger
Essence.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
1 oz. candied Lemon Peel.
Ingredients-
4 ot Flour.
4 oz. Butter.
4 oz. Sugar.
i tea-sp. Ground Ginger.
2 Eggs.
Method. - Cream the butter and sugar together,
and add to tlieiu the ground ginger, essence of
ginger, amd the lemon peel chopped finely.
Tlien add one egg and half the flour and beat
well, then the other egg and the remainder of
the flour and beat again. Wlien the mixture
is liglit and frothy-looking mix in the baking
powder, and lialf fill small tins that have been
greased and dusted out with flour and sugar
(see p. 213). Place the tins on a baking-sheet,
and bake the cakes in a moderate oven from
fifteen to twenty minutes, or until they feel
firm to the touch.
Ingredients -
1 lb. Honey.
J lb. Butter.
1 lb. Flour.
A pinch of Salt.
Honey Cakes
J lb. Ground Almonds.
A pinch of Ground Cloves.
Grated Rind of half a Lemon.
i oz. Carbonate of Soda.
Method. - Sieve the flour, salt, carbonate of
soda, and ground cloves into a basin, add the
almonds and grated lemon rind, and make a
well in the centre. Melt the butter and honey
in a lined saucepan, and pour them into the
centre of the diry ingredients. Mix together
until all is thoroughly blended, then cover the
basin and allow the mixture to stand all night.
Nex-t day sprinkle the paste with a little flour
and turn it out on a baking-board. Flour a
rolUng-pin and roll out the paste to half an inch
in thickness. Cut in small square pieces or
round cakes, and place them on a greased and
floured tin. Brush over the top of the cake
with slightly beaten white of egg, and sprinkle
with some chopped almonds. Bake in a
moderate oven about fifteen minutes, or until
the cakes feel firm to the touch and are of a pale
brown colour.
Ingredients -
4 oz. Flour.
4 oz. Butter.
4 oz. Sugar.
A pinch of Salt.
Queen Cakes
j tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A little grated Lemon Rind.
A few Currants.
Method. - Grea.se nine or ton small tins, and
dust them out with flour and sugar mixed {aae
p. 2 1 3). Place a few cleaned currants at the foot
of each, and then proceed to make the mixture.
Cream the butter and sugar together in a ba.sia,
and add the salt and grated lemon rind. Sieve
the flour, and add half of it to the ci-eamed
butter and sugar with one of the eggs. Mix
slowly, and then boat well for a few minutes.
Add the second egg and the remainder of the
flour, and beat again. Sprinkle in the baking
powder at the last, and half fiU the prepared
tins with the mixture. Bake the cakes in a
moderate oven from fifteen to twenty minutes,
and, when ready, allow them to cool on a sieve
or wire stand.
Ingredients -
2 oz. Ground Rice.
3 oz. Flour.
3 oz. Sugar.
2 oz. Butter.
Rice Buns
2 Eggs.
J tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A little Flavouring.
Method. - Make in the same way as Queen
Cakes.
Note. - This mixtxire may, if liked, be made in
one large cake. It will take about one hour
to bake.
Walnut Buns
Ingredients -
2 oz. Flour.
1 oz. Rice-flour.
3 oz. Castor Sugar
3 oz. Butter.
3 oz. shelled Walnuts.
2 Eggs.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
1 table-spoonful Cream.
i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Some Red Currant Jelly.
Method. - Cream the butter and sugar. Toast
the walnuts for a few minutes in a moderate
oven, then pound or chop them rather finely.
Reserve one table -spoonful of these, and add
the rest to the creamed butter and sugar with
one egg and the rice-flour. ]\Iix well for a few
minutes, then add the other egg, flour, cream,
nutmeg, and baking powder. Beat well for a
few minutes longer, and half fill small tins
which have been greased and dusted out with
equal parts of flour and castor sugar mixed.
Bake in a good oven about fifteen minutes.
Turn out and cool slightly. Then coat the
top of the buns with red currant jelly and sp^mkle
them with the remainder of the walnuts.
PLAIN AND FANCY BISCUITS FOR
DESSERT AND AFTERNOON TEA
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour.
I lb. Rice-flour.
} lb. Butter.
Ayrshire Shortbread
4 oz. Castor Sugar.
1 Egg.
1 or 2 table-spoonf ok Cream.
Method. - Sieve the two kinds of flour into a
basin, and rub the butter into them. Sieve in
the sugar, and add the flavouring. Beat up the
egg in a small basin, and add a little cream to
it ; pour this into the centre of the dry in-
gredients, and mix all into a paste with the hand,
using more cream if necessary. Turn out on a
floured board, and knead lightly until free from
GUIDE TO COOKEKY
219
cracks. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll out the
paste to about f inch in thickness. Stamp
it out in small rounds with a cutter, and place
the biscuits on a greased and floured tin. Roll
the scraps again, and cut out more biscuits until
all is used, then bake the biscuits in a moderate
oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Sprinkle
them well with sugar while they are still hot,
and lift them on to a sieve or wire stand to cool.
Note. - These biscuits will keep crisp if placed
in a tin box with paper.
Bachelors' Buttons
Ingredients -
5 oz. Flour. I 1 Egg.
3 oz. Castor Sugar. A little Flavouring.
2 oz. Butter. I
Method. - Cream the butter and sugar together,
and add a Mttle flavouring. Beat the egg, and
add it gradually with the flour until a stiffish
paste is formed. Do not add all the egg unless
necessary. Take small portions of the mixture
and roll them into balls the size of a hazel nut,
using a little flour to prevent them sticking to
the hands. Place them on a greased and floured
tin, and when all are ready sprinkle them with
sugar. Bake in a good oven about twelve
minutes or until the biscuits are Mghtly browned,
then hft them on to a sieve to cool.
Cheese Straws
Ingredients -
3 oz. Flour.
2 oz. Butter.
2 oz. grated
Cheese.
Parmesan
J yolk of Egg.
A pinch of Cayenne.
A pinch of Salt.
A little Water.
Method. - Rub the butter lightly into the
flour. Add the grated cheese and seasoning,
and mix into a paste with half the yolk of an
egg beaten with a Uttle water. Make the pastry
rathor stiff, and work with the hands until free
from cracks. Then roll it out on a floured board
into a strip about four inches wide. Trim
evenly at the edges, and cut most of the pastry
into straws about quarter an inch wide. Place
these on a greased tin, and out of the remainder
of the pastry cut six or eight rings. Bake all
together in a good oven for about ten minutes.
Watch them most carefully, as they bvu-n very
quicldy. Serve them with a bundle of straws
placed in each ring.
Ingredients-
i lb. Flour.
} lb. Castor Sugar.
1 yolk of Egg.
Cinnamon Biscuits
1 tea-sp. Ground Ginger.
Milk if necessary,
i lb. Butter.
Method. - Sieve all the di-y ingredients into
a basin and rub in the butter with the tips of
the fingers until free from lumps. Then bind
together with the yolk of an egg, and a little
milk if necessary. The dough must not be made
too soft, but of the consistency of pastry.
Knead with the hand until free from cracks, and
turn out on a slightly floured board. Flour a
rolling-pin and roll out the dough to one-eighth
of an inch in thickness. Finish in the same way
as Ayrshire Shortbread (p. 218).
Cinnamon Macaroons
Ingredients -
J lb. Ground Almonds. i * tea-spoonful Ground Cin-
i lb. Icing Sugar. namon.
1 oz. Flour. I Some White of Egg.
Icing- 3 table-spoonfuls Icing Sugar, 1 tea-spoonful
Flour, White of Egg.
Method. - Sieve the flour, icing sugar, and
cinnamon on to the baking-board, and mix with
the ground almonds. Then add gradually
enough wliite of egg to form a very stiff paste.
Work with the hands until perfectly smooth and
elastic, and form into a long roll quite free from
cracks. Flour the rolling-pin and press out
the roll into an even strip, keeping it perfectly
straight at the edges so as to avoid any waste.
Then prepare the icing. Mix the floiir and icing
sugar together, and bind with a very little white
of egg. Spread tliis smoothly over the almond
paste with a wetted knife, and then cut in neat
fingers. Place these on a greased and floured
tin, and bake in a moderate oven until a light
brown colour, and firm and crisp to the touch.
Cocoanut Biscuits
Ingredients -
2 oz. Desiccated Cocoanut. i 1 white of Egg.
2 oz. Castor Sugar. Wafer Taper.
1 tea-spoonful Flour. I
Method. - Chop the cocoanut a little more
finely if necessary, and mix it in a basin with
the other dry ingredients. Whip the white of
egg to a stiff froth, and bind all together mth
this. Put small squares of wafer paper on a dry
baking-tin, arrange a tea-spoonful of the mixtiu-e
on each, and bake in a slow oven for half-an-
hour, or until the biscuits are firm and of a pale
brown colour. Cool them on a sieve, breaking
off the wafer paper which projects beyond the
These biscuits should be kept in paper in an
air-tight tin box.
Ginger Biscuits
Ingredients -
i lb. Flour. J lb. Butter.
4 oz. Castor Sugar. 1 oz. Ground Ginger.
A little Sherry.
Method. - Sieve the flour, sugar, and ginger
into a basin, and rub in the butter until free
from lumps. Tlien form into a stiff paste with
sherry, turn on to a floured board, and Icnead
with the hands until free from ci'acks. Flour a
rolling-pin, and roll the paste out very thinly.
220
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Cut it into small round or fancy-shaped pieces
with a cutter, lay them on a greased tin, and
bake in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen
minutes.
Macaroons
Ingredients -
i lb. Ground Almonds.
i lb. C"8tor Sugar.
3 or 4 ^^^ute8 of Eggs.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Wafer Paper.
Method. - Put the almonds and sugar into a
basin, and add tlie lemon juice and the white
of eggs very gradually, beating well with a
wooden spoon or spatula. Beat thoroughly and
make the mixture just moist enough to drop
from a spoon. Put it into a forcing-bag with a
plain pipe at the end, and force out small por-
tions on rounds or squares of wafer paper.
This quantity should make twelve. Dust over
with icing sugar, which will make the macaroons
crack on the top, and place a half -blanched and
split almond on the top of each. Bake in a
very moderate oven until nicely browned, dry,
and well risen. Lift on to a sieve to cool, and
break off any scraps of wafer paper that extend
beyond the edges.
Milk Biscuits
Ingredients -
} lb. Flour.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A pinch of Salt.
1 gill of MUk.
1 oz. Butter.
Method. - Sieve the flour, salt, and baking
powder into a basin, and make a well in the
centre. Melt the butter in a small saucepan,
add the milk, and make it just lukewarm.
Pour this into the centre of the flour and mix
all together. Flour a baking-bo£ird, tiu-n the
paste on to it, and knead with the hands until
free from cracks. Then roll out as thin as
possible, and prick all over vinth a fork or biscuit-
pricker. Stamp out in rounds with a cutter
about three inches in diameter, place the biscuits
on a greased tin, and bake them in a moderate
oven for about twenty minutes. The oven
must not be too hot, but regular. When the
biscuits are reawly, remove them from the tins
and put them on a sieve or wire stand to cool.
Norwegian Biscuits
Ingredients -
4 oz. >lour.
4 oz. KIce-flour.
1 oz. Butter.
2 oz. Castor Sugar.
2 table-spoonfuls Cream.
1 oz. Ground Almonds.
Method. - Make in the same way as Ayrshire
Shortbread (p. 218), sprinkling the ground
almonds over the biscuits before bakine.
Oatmeal Biscuits
Ingredients -
3 oz. Flour.
3 oz. Oatmeal.
1 oz. Sugar, or A tea-sp. Salt
IJ oz. Butter.
A pinch of Baking Powder.
A little Water or Milk.
Method. - Put all the dry ingredients into a
basin, and rub in the butter with the tips of
the fingers until free from lumps. Boat up the
egg in a small basin, add half of it to the mixtiu-e,
and then enough water or milk to form all into
one lump. Ivnoad with the hands until fi-ee
from cracks, and turn the dough on to a floured
board. Finish in the same way as Ayrshire
Shortbread (p. 218).
Note. - Wheaten meal may be used instead of
oatmeal.
Raspberry Biscuits
Take any sweet biscuits, such as Milan or
AjTshire shortbread, and place two together with
a little raspberry jam between. Coat them
with raspberry glac6 icing (p. 226) and decorate
them with a few chopped pistachio nuts or small
pieces of preserved fruit.
LARGE CAKES
Angel Cake
Ingredients -
2 oz. Vienna Flour.
1 tea-spoonful Cream
Tartar.
A pinch of Salt.
1 tea-spoonful Orange Flower
Water.
C whites of Eggs.
3 oz. Castor Sugar.
Method. - Dry and sieve the flour with the
cream of tartar. Add a pinch of salt to the
whites of eggs, and beat them to the stiffest
possible froth. Well sieve the sugar, and mix
it very Ughtly in. Then the flour and cream of
tartar in the same way, and leistly the flavouring.
Do not stop beating after tho mixing is begun,
and keep the mixture as light as possible. Bake
in a perfectly clean and ungreased tin, and from
twenty to thirty minutes in a moderate oven.
Test the cake with a fine skewer before removing
it from the oven, and do not allow it to become
too brown. When ready turn the cake upside
down on a sheet of paper and leave it until the
tin can be slipped off quite easily. The cake
may be iced with fondant or glac6 icing if
desired.
Cherry Cake
Ingredients -
J lb. Flour.
3 Eggs.
5 oz. Castor Sugar.
4 oz. Butter.
Method. - Cream the butter and sugar. Sieve
the flour, and add it to the butter and sugar by
degrees with the eggs, boating well after the
addition of each egg. Lift the mixture well up
in the basin while mixing, and make it very
i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
2 or 3 oz. Glac6 Cherries.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
221
light. Add the cherries cut in small pieces,
baking powder and nutmeg at the last, mix
them gently in, but do not beat again. Pour the
mixture into a small hned cake tin, and bake
in a good oven about three-quarters of an hour.
Chocolate Tea Cake
Ingredients -
i oz. Butter.
3 oz. Castor Sugar.
3 oz. Grated Chocolate.
1 oz. Ground Almonds.
Grated Rind of half a Lemon.
4 oz. Vienna Flour.
1 dessert-spoonful Orange
Flower Water.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A pinch of Ground
Cinnamon.
A pinch of Nutmeg
3 small Eggs.
Method. - Sieve the sugar, cinnamon, choco-
late, and nutmeg into a basin. Add the butter
and beat together with a wooden spoon until of
a soft creamy consistency. Then add the eggs
and flom- by degrees, beating and mixing well
between the addition of each egg. Flavour to
teiste, and add the baking powder at the last.
Pour into a tin that has been greased and dusted
out with flour and sugar mixed, and bake the
cake in a moderate oven about one hour, until
well risen and until it feels dry when tested
with a skewer.
Note. - When cold, this cake may be iced
with chocolate glace icing (p. 225), and then
decorated with crystalUsed violets and leaves
cut out of angelica or any other suitable decora-
tion that will form a nice contrast to the broAi^Ti
icing.
Method. - Put the butter and sugar into a
large warm basin, and beat them together to a
cream. Add the yolks of eggs and spices, and
beat for a few minutes. Have the whites of
љggs beaten to a stiff froth, and add them next
alternately with the flotir. Beat again for
twenty minutes. Add the fruit, carefully pre-
pared, and the brandy at the last. Poiu- the
mixture into one or two well-lined cake tins, and
bake in a moderate and steady ov"n from two
to four hours according to size. This cake
ought to be kept at least three months before
it is cut. It should be wrapped in a clean cloth
or paper, and stored in a tin box. It may be
iced iu the same way as a wedding-cake (p. 226).
Easter Cake
Make in the same way as Simnel Cake (p. 224).
Ai-range the almond paste on the top of the
cake in the form of a bird's nest. Score roughly
with a fork end bro^^Ti lightly in the oven or
under the grill of the gas stove. Finish off by
putting a few sweets to imitate birds' eggs in
the hollow.
German Pound Cake
Ingredients -
C oz. Butter.
C oz. Castor Sugar.
10 oz. Flour.
The grated rind of half a
Lemon.
i lb. Sultanas.
i lb. Candied PeeL
5 Eggs.
I tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Method. - First clean and pick the sultansis,
and shred the candied peel very finely. Then
put the butter and sugar into a basin, and beat
them to a cream. Add the grated lemon rind,
one egg, and a little of the flour sieved, and
mix well for a few minutes. Add the second
egg and a httle more flour, and so on, repeating
this process until all the eggs and flour have
been added. Beat all together for about ten
minutes, lifting the mixture well up in the spoon
so as to introduce some air. Mix in the fruit
and baking powder at the last, but do not beat
again, or the fruit will be incHned to fall in the
baking. Pour the mixture into a lined cake
tin, and bake in a moderate oven for two hours,
or until thoroughly cooked and nicely browned.
^Vhen ready, remove the cake from the oven,
allow it to stand a few minutes, then turn on to
a wire stand to cool.
Gingerbread
Ingredients -
1 lb. Flour.
} lb. Sugar.
J lb. Butter, Lard, o
Dripping.
ј lb. Syrup or Treacle.
2 oz. Sweet Almonds.
1 gill Buttermilk or Water.
2 Eggs.
J lb. Candied PeeL
1 dessert-spoonful Ground
Ginger.
1 tea-sp. Ground Cinnamon.
1 tea-sp. Baking .Soda.
A pinch of Cayenne.
Method. - Sieve the flour, spices, and soda
into a large basin, and rub in the fat until free
from lumps. Add the sugar, peel finely shred,
and the almonds blanched and shred, and mix
well. Make a well in the centre, pour in the
treacle or syrup shghtly warmed, the eggs well
beaten, and the biittermilk or water. Mix in
the dry ingredients from the sides of the basin,
and beat all well for a few minutes. Pour the
mixture into a greased shallow tin, and bake in
a moderate oven for at least one hour, or until
firm to the touch.
Note. - The fruit may be omitted from this
recipe, or sultanas or currants added eis desired.
Ingredients -
1 lb. Flour.
i lb. Butter.
J lb. Currants.
} lb. Mixed Peel.
i lb. Sultanas.
I lb. Demerara Sugar.
Holiday Cake
2 tea-spoonfuls Mixed Spice.
i pint Stout
Rind of 1 Lemon.
1 tea-sp. Carbonate of Soda.
4 Eggs.
Method. - First prepare the fruit (see p. 212),
222
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
and mix it with a littlo of the flour. Tlien put
the rest of the flour into a large basin, and rub
in the butter until free from lumps. Add the
fruit and other dry ingredients except the soda,
mix all together, and make a well in the centre.
Heat the stout in a small saucepan and add
the soda to it. Jlix quickly, and while still
frothy pour it into the centre of the dry in-
gredients. Add also the eggs well beaten, and
beat all together for fifteen minutes. Pour the
mixture into a lined cake tin, and bake in a slow
oven for three hours.
Invalid Cake
Ingredients -
3 oz. Hoiir.
2 Eggs.
■2 oz. C"stor Sugar.
i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
2 oz. Butter.
Half Lemon Rind grated.
Method. - Make in the same way as cherry
cake (p. 220). Or the mixture may be baked in
small patty pans that have been greased and
dusted out with floiu* and sugar ; ten or fifteen
minutes will be sufficient to cook them.
Jam Sandwich
Ingredients -
3 Eggs, their weight in I A few drops of Vanilla or
Bntter, Flour, and Sugar. | other flavouring.
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls Jam.
Method. - ^lake the cake mixture according
to directions given for cherry cake (p. 220), beat
it well. Pour the mixture into two sandwich
cake tins that have been lined with paper, and
bake in a good oven from fifteen to twenty
minutes. When the cakes are nicely browned
and cooked through, turn them out on a sheet
of sugared paper, and, when cool, spread one
with jam, and place the other on the top.
Jabilee Cake
Ingredients -
10 oz. Butter.
10 oz. .Sugar.
14 oz. Flour.
J lb. Candied Peel.
i lb. Glac^ Cherries.
A few drops of Vanilla
Essence.
i lb. Sultanas.
2 oz. Sweet Almonds.
6 Eggs.
Almond Paste- \ lb. Ground Almonds, J lb. Castor Sugar,
I lb. Icing Sugar, 1 table-spcjonful Brandy, and 1 or 2
whites of Egg.
While GUue Icing- r&ge 22.5.
Deeorations-2 oz. Shred and Browned Almonds, some Red
Jam, and a few Pistachio Nuts.
Method. - Make the cake in the same way as
Cjrerman pound (p. 221) and bake in a moderate
oven from two to three hours until well risen
and firm to the touch. When ready, lift the
cake on to a sieve, and let it cool. Prepare
the almond paste as on p. 225, and put a nice
smooth layer on the top of the cake, and set
it aside for several hours to become quite
dry. Then coat the top with a little white glac6
icing. Coat the sides of the cake with some
red jam, and then with a layer of shredded
almonds and pistacliio nuts, or with browned
cocoanut and some cocoanut coloured pink
with cochineal. The top of the cake may be
further decorated with some pieces of preserve
fruits or with some of the icing put tlu-ough a
forcing-bag, and little silver balls.
Ingredients -
} lb. Flour.
J lb. Rice-flour.
G oz. Castor Sugar.
i lb. Butter.
3 large Eggs.
J lb. Currants.
Luncheon Cake
2 oz. Candied Peel.
A pinch of Nutmeg.
1 tea-sp. Carl)onate of Soda.
The grated Rind of half a
Lemon.
1 gill of Milk.
Method. - Sieve the flour, rice-floiu-, and sugar
into a basin, and rub in the butter untij free
from lumps. Then add the nutmeg, lemon
rind, sugar, and fruit, carefully prepared. Mix
together, and make a well in the centre. Heat
the milk in a small saucepan, add the soda to
it, and, while still frothy, poiu- it into the midst
of the dry ingredients. Add also the eggs, the
yolks and whites beaten separately, and mix
all together. Beat the mixture well for a few
minutes, and then pour it into a cake tin that
has been Uned with paper (see p. 212). Bake
the cake in a moderate oven for about two hours.
Madeira Cake
Grated Rind of half a Lemon,
or 3 or 4 drops of Vanilla
Essence.
1 or 2 Strips of Citron I'eel.
Ingredients -
6 oz. Butter.
6 oz. Castor Sugar.
9 oz. Flour.
i large Eggs.
i tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Method. - Cream the buttor and sugar. Beat
the eggs in a separate basin until they are light
and frothy, and add them to the creamed butter
and sugar. Mix well for a few minutes. Sieve
the flour and baking powder, and mix these
hghtly but thoroughly into the other mixture.
Have ready a cake tin lined with paper, pour
in the mixture, not more than half fillinir it,
and bake in a moderate oven from one and a
half to two hours, or until the cake is well "isen
and feels firm to the touch. \\Tien the cake
has been in the oven about twenty minutes
place the strips of citron peel on the top.
Mocha Cake
Ingredients -
1 lb. Castor Sugar.
i lb. Vienna FTour.
.\ few drops of Vanilla
Essence.
4 Eggs.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
Mocha Icing.
Method. - First jireparo a plain round cake
tin in the same manner as for a sponge cake
(p. 213), then proceed to make the cake.
Separate the yolks from the whites of the
eggs, putting each into a medium-t'zed basin.
Sieve the flour with the baking powder, and
put it in a warm pla<3e until required. Add
GUIDE TO COOKERY
223
the sugar and vanilla to the yolks of eggs, and
cream these together with a \vii'e whisk from
ten to fifteen minutes, or until they look very
light in colour and consistency. Then whip
the whites to a stiff froth and stir them very
L'ghtly in, and alternately with a little flour,
turning the mixttire over and over and as deli-
cately as possible. When all is blended, pour
the mixture into the prepared tin, place it on a
bed of salt or sand on a baking-tin, and bake
in a good oven for half-an-hoxir, or until well
risen and firm to the touch. As soon as the top
is brown, the cake ought to be covered with
paper to prevent it taking too deep a colour.
Allow the cake to stand for five minutes after
removing it from the oven, then turn it out on
a sieve and let it cool gradually. Then ice the
cake as below : -
To Ice the Cake. - Prepare some Mocha icing
as on p. 227, and keep it on ice or in a very cool
place until it is required. SpUt the cake once
or twice according to height, spread each piece
with a layer of the icing, and put the cake back
into shape. Then with a spatula or broad-
bladed knife spread the top, and, if wished, the
sides of the cake with the icing. Put the re-
mainder into a forcing-bag with a rather large
fancy-shaped pipe at the end of it, and force
out pretty patterns on the top of the cake. A
few crystallised violets or pistachio nuts may
be used as an ornamentation, or any sweet that
will make a pretty contrast in colour to the
brown icing. Allow the cake to stand in a cool
place for an hour or two before cutting, so as to
harden the icing.
Orange Cake
Ingredients -
6 oz. Vieniia Flour.
The grated Rind of 1 Orange,
3 Eggs.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
5 oz. Castor Sugar.
Method. - Sieve the sugar into a basin, grate
the orange rind on the top of it, and rub the
two together with the tips of the fingers until
they are thoroughly blended. Add the eggs to
the orange sugar, and beat with a wire whisk
about fifteen minutes until smooth and creamy.
Then add the flour dried and sifted, and also
the baking powder. Mix these in very lightly,
and pour the mixture into a tin that has been
greased and dusted out with a mixture of flour
and sugar. Bake in a quick oven from twenty
to thirty minutes, and, when ready, turn carefully
on to a sieve to cool.
Coat the cake with icing and decorate \dth
chopped pistachio nuts, crystaUised violets, or
small sections of crystallised orange.
Note. - Instead of icing this cake, it may be
spUt when cold, and spread with the following
cream mixture : - Whip one gill of double cream
until quite thick, sweeten to taste, and flavour
with orango flavouring.
Pitcaithly Bannock
2 oz. Candied Orange PeeL
J oz. Castor .Sugar.
A little Flavouring.
Ingredients -
J lb. Butter.
1 lb. Flour,
i lb. Rice- flour.
2 oz. Sweet Almonds.
Method. - Warm the butter slightly and then
beat it to a cream. Blanch and chop the
almonds, and shred the peel very finely. Mix
all the other ingredients with the creamed butter,
and knead into one lump with the hands. This
may take some Uttle time, but no Hquid must
be used. Form into a round flat cake about
one and a half inches thick, and prick all over
with a fork. Place the cake on a baldng-tin
and tie a band of double paper round it. Bake
in a moderate oven from one to one and a half
hours, or until the cake feels firm and is a nice
brown colour. Allow it to cool on the tin before
removing it, and take off the band of paper.
Note. - This cake should be rolled in paper
and kept in an air-tight tin box, and then broken
in pieces when required.
Scotch Seed Cake
i lb. Sweet Almonds.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
A little grated Lemon Rind.
Some Sugar Carraways.
Ingredients -
i lb. Butter.
i lb. Castor Sugar.
14 oz. Flour.
6 Eggs.
J lb. Candied Peel.
Method. - Shred the candied peel finely, and
blanch and chop the almonds. Mx them with
about one table-spoonful of the flour, or just
sufficient to prevent them clotting together,
and then make the cake mixture according to
directions given for German pound cake (p. 221).
Pour into a papered cake tin and put some
sugar carraways on the top. Bake in a
moderate oven from two to two and a half
hours.
Shortbread
Ingredients -
4 oz. Flour.
2 oz. Kice-flour.
4 oz. Butter.
2 oz. Castor Sugar.
A few drops of Flavouring.
Method. - Sieve all the dry ingredients into a
basin, and rub in the butter. Add the flavouring
and then knead all into one lump without using
any hquid. Turn out on a board sprinkled
with rice-flour, and form into a smooth round.
If a shortbread mould is obtainable, shape the
cake in that ; if not, pinch it round the edges
with the fingers, or mark it with a knife. Then
place the shortbread on a greased baking-tin,
and prick it all over with a fork. A strip of
candied peel may be put on the top if wished, or
any other decoration that is desired. Bake in
a moderate oven from twenty to thirty minutes
or until the shortbread is of a uniform brown
colour, and feels firm to the touch. Allow it
to cool before removing it from the tin.
224
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Note. - If the dough becomes rather soft in
the making, it v\-ill be well to allow the short-
bread to stand imtil quite cool before baking,
otherwise it is apt to lose its fonn.
Sinmel Cake
J lb. Candied Peel.
i lb. Valencia Raisins.
} lb. Currants.
J gill Brandy.
J tea-sp. Ground Ginger.
J tea-sp. Ground Cinnamon.
J tea-sp. Grated Nutmeg.
Ingredients -
1 lb. Roar.
\ lb. Butter.
} lb. Castor Sugar.
5 Eggs.
The grated Rind of 1 Lemon.
The grated Rind of 1 Orange.
1 tea-sp. Baking Powder.
\ lb. Sultanas.
Almond Icing (see p. 225).
Method. - First prepare the fruit (see p. 212),
and mix it with one table -spoonful of the dry
flour. Then take a strong cake tin and line it
with at least two folds of thick white paper.
When these are ready, proceed to make the cake.
Cream the butter and sugar. Add the spices,
gi-ated orange and lemon rinds, yolks of eggs,
and brandy. Beat for a few minutes, and add
the flour sieved and the whites of the eggs beaten
to a stiff froth. ]Mix very lightly, and stir in
the prepared fruit and baking powder last of all.
Do not beat after the fruit is added. Pour the
mixture into the prepared cake tin, smooth it
over the top, and bkke in a steady oven from
two to three hours.
This cake improves with keeping, and should
not be cut for three or four weeks after making.
A Simnel Cake is usually coated with almond
paste, and this should be put on two or tlu*ee
days before the cake is to be used.
To Coat with Almond Paste. - ^Take the
quantity of almond paste, given on p. 225, and
spread it smoothly on the cake. Then take a
fork and score the pastљ across first one way
and then the other, and coat Ughtly with beaten
yolk of egg. Place the cake in a moderate oven,
or place it beneath the grill light on a gas stove
until the almond paste is nicely browned.
Note. - Sometimes a layer of almond paste is
put in the middle of this cake. When this is
desired, half the above quantity of the paste
should be made before the cake is baked, and
this should be made in a round the size of tlio
cake tin and laid in the middle of the mixture
before baking.
Method. - Put the sugar and water into a
small lined saucepan, bring them to the boil,
and simmer slowly for five minutes. Beat the
eggs slightly in a basin with a wire whisk, and
pour the syrup of sugar and water on to them,
stirring all the time. Then whisk steadily for
half-an-hour, until the mixture looks light and
2 whole Eggs and 1 Yolk.
A little grated Lemon Rind.
frothy and is well risen in the basin. Dry and
sieve the flour, and mix it in hghtly at the
last, with a little grated lemon rind or any other
flavom'ing preferred. Pour the mixture into a
cake tin prepared according to directions given
on p. 213, and do not more than half fill the tin.
Bake the cake in a very steady oven for about
three-quarters of an hour, or until it is well risen
and feels firm to the touch. If the heat from
the oven is great, stand the cake on a bed of
sand placed on a baking-tin, or put a tile or
brick under the tin.
Ingredients-
11 lb. Fresh Butter.
J lb. dark Treacle.
IJ lb. raw Sugar.
i pint warm Milk.
J pint Brandy.
1 tea-spoonful Salt.
12 Eggs.
Wedding Cake
4 lbs. Currants,
i lb. Sweet Almonds.
2 or 3 Bitter Almonds.
J lb. Citron Peel.
1 lb. Orange and Lemon Peel.
2 lbs. Flour.
Almond and Royal Icing.
Metliod. - Put the butter into a large and warm
basin, and beat it to a cream with the hand or
with a large wooden spoon. Add the sugar and
treacle slightly warmed, and beat again for a
few minutes. Then add the eggs two at a time,
beating the mixtvu-e weU after each addition.
(It will be safer to break the eggs into a small
basin previous to adding them to the mixture,
to ensure their being fresh.) Have the frioit
carefully prepared (p. 212), and mixed with
one or two table-spoonfuls of the flour, and add
it next with the milk, brandy, and salt. Dry
and sieve the flom*, and add it last of all. The
mixture must not be beaten after the flour is
added. When all is thoroughly blended pour
the mixture into two lined cake tins, one of which
is three or four sizes smaller than the other,
and bake in a moderate and steady oven. Tlie
larger cake will probably require from four to
five hours to bake, and a smaller one less in
proportion. Wlien the cakes begin to brown
they should be co\'erod with a double fold of
white paper to prevent them burning un the
top. The succass of the cake will depend very
much upon the long steady baking. Wlien the
cakes are baked and cold, they should be wrapped
in a thick sheet of white paper or a cloth, and
kept in a tin box for two or three months before
being iced or used.
Note. - For icing and decoration of cakes,
see pp. 225 and 226.
ICING AND DECORATION OF CAKES
The following are a few of the materials which
may bo used for decorating purposes : -
Coloured Sugars. - Put some coarse granu-
lated sugar on to a stiff sheet of white paper,
and pour a few drops of liquid colouring on the
top. Work this in with the point of a knife
until an even tint is obtained, and then leave
the sugar to dry. Pink, green, yellow, &c..
GUIDE TO OOOKEKY
225
sugsuf may bo made in this way, and these sugars
will keep if put in corked bottles.
Pistachio Kernels. - Put these into cold water,
and bring them quickly to tlie boil. Then drain
and pour plenty of cold water over them. Rub
off the skins, and dry the pistachios in a cloth.
Shred or chop before using.
Browned or Coloured Almonds. - First blanch
thealmonds (see p. 2 12), and dry them thoroughly.
Shred them finely, or chop them rather roughly.
To brown the almonds, put them on a tin in
a veiy moderate oven, and keep tiirning
them over and over until very evenly and
lightly browned. To colour them, sprinkle a
few drops of colouring on the top, and rub
it into the almonds. Pistachio nuts (which
are much more exiDensive than almonds) may
be imitated by colouring the almonds pale
green.
Cocoanut. - This may also be browned or
coloured iii the same way as almonds, and used
for decorating purposes.
Candied Cherries and other Fruits. - ^These are
very pi-otty and useful for decorating cakes,
and as they wiU keep almost indefinitely in an
air-tight tin box, they are not expensive. They
are generally cut in pieces unless they are very
small.
Angelica. - Tliis is also a very effective decora-
tion. If it is hard and sugawy, soak it in warm
water for a minute or two, then dry. Cut it
first into tliin strips, then into diamond-shaped
pieces to represent leaves, stars, rounds, &c.
A combination of angelica and cherries is very
pretty.
Nuts, such as walnu+s, filberts, Barcelona
nuts, &c., eitlier plain, or iced, or carameUsed,
may also be used.
Bonbons. - These may be had in many forms,
and if tastefully used they make a very simple
and easy decoration. Silver and gold dragees
are among the most useful.
Crystallised Flowers. - Tlaese can be bought
ready, such as rose petals, violets, orange flowers,
lilac ; and leaves to suit can be cutirom angeUca,
or oven from citron peel.
Juice of half a Lemon.
1 or 2 table-sp. Brandy.
Yolks or Whites of Eggs.
Method.- -Bq particular to choose good ground
almonds; unless they are well preserved they
are liable to have a bitter or mouldy taste, or
perhaps no taste at all. Put the ground almonds
mto a strong basin, and sieve the two sugars on
the top of them. Add the flavouring, lemon
juice, and brandy. The brandy may, of course,
be onutted if it is objected to, but it renders the
almond paste more wholesome, and it will keep
better. Tlien add enough egg to bind all
together. Knead well with the hand, adding
the moisture very gradually. Eitiier yolks or
wliites of eggs may be used ; the yolks will make
the paste richer and yellower, the whites drier
and of a paler coloiu*. Or both yolks and whites
may be used if it is more convenient. The paste
ought to be very smooth when finished, and just
moist enough to be bound together.
Sometimes, for fancy purposes, the almond
paste is colom-ed pink, green, &c., and different
flavourings used.
To Use the Almond Paste. - This is generally
used for coating rich fruit cakes, such as wedding,
Christmas, or Simnol cakes. Cut the cake to
be iced flat on the top, or coat the foot of it.
Lay on a nice thick layer of the peiste and shape
it first with the hands. Then take a wetted
knife, and make the top and sides perfectly
smooth and level, and a sharp straight ridge
round the edges. If the cake is to be iced with
a white icing as well, allow the almond paste to
become quite dry and hard before putting on
the second icing. Sometimes, as in the case of
a Simnel or Easter cake, no wliite icing is put
on the top. In this case the almond paste should
be scored across with a fork, or marked in checks
with a fluted roller, brushed over with yolk of
egg, and browned under a gas grill or in a
quick oven.
GIac6 Icing
Proportions -
J lb. Icing Sugar.
About 3 table-spoonfuls Water or other Liquid.
Metlwd. - This is a simple soft icing, and one
that is very quickly made. Sieve the sugar and
put it into an enamelled saucepan or sugar -boiler.
Add the hquid (see below) very gradually and
stir over the fire until warm. The icing must not
be made too hot or it will become lumpy and
have a dull appearance. Whilst adding the
Hquid it must be borne in mind that, as the sugar
melts, the icing will become softer. Tlie icing
must be just soft enough to pour over the cake
and perfectly smooth. The following are a few
of the colourings and flavourings in which tliis
icing may be made : -
Chocolate Glac6. - Dissolve U or 2 oz. un-
sweetened chocolate in a very h'ttle water imtil
it is perfectly smooth. Prepare the above icing
with water and a few drops of vanilla, and
add it to the chocolate. Jlix the two together
and use.
Coffee Glac6 Icing. - Use strong coffee or
essence of coffee and a little water to moisten
the icing. One or two drops of vanilla may be
added if hked.
Tea Glac^ Icing. - I\Iake in the same way, using
tea instead of coffee.
Lemon or Orange Glac6 Icing. - Use strained
P
226
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
orange or lemon juico to moisten the icing,
adding water if necessary. A little yellow
colouring may also bo added, the same as in
fondant icing.
Raspberry or Strawberry Glac6 Icing. - Use
raspberry or strawberry sjTup to moiston the
icing.
If by any chsmoe this icing should become
too soft in the making it may be stiffened by
adding more sieved icing sugar, but it is always
better if tliis has not to bo done.
To Use the Icing. - Tliis icing may either be
poured over the cakes, or the cakes may be
•dipped into it. If a large cake is to be iced,
put it on a wire stand placed on a sheet of white
paper, and pour over enough icing to cover the
top only, or the top and sides as desired. Any
icing that runs over may be gathered up and
used again. Small cakes may be iced in the
same way, or they may be held on the point of
a palette knife over the pan of icing, and the
icing poured over them, or they may be dipped
right into the icing.
Royal Icing
Proportions -
J table-sp. Lemon Juice, or 6 or 7 AMiites of Eggs
6 drops of Acetic Acid. 2 lbs. Icing Sugar.
A little Blue Colouring.
Metlwd. - This is a hard white icing used
principally for the icing of wedding, birthday,
or Christmas cakes. Sieve the sugar, and put
most of it into a basin, reserving a small pro-
portion in case the icing should be made too
moist, when this may be used. Add a very
little blue colouring, either a drop of liquid blue
or a tiny dust of stone washing blue, and just
enough to take off the yellow shade from the
sugar, and to make the icing a finer white.
Then put in some acid, lemon juice, or acetic
acid, as without this the icing would not harden
on the cake. Now add the whites of eggs by
degrees, mixing the icing with a wooden spoon
or spatula. It is very important that both
basin and spoon should be dry and free from
gretise before commencing, or otherwise the
icing might be spoiled. Beat the icing as
quickly as possible until it is perfectly smooth
and of the right consistency ; from five to ten
minutes may be sufficient, but it requires some
hard beating to make it workable. To be of
the right consistency, the wooden spoon should
be able to stand vertically in it without falling.
The icing is now ready for use, but in order
to prevent a skin forming on the top it must
be kept covered with a damp cloth. Place a
piece of stick or wire across the basin to pre-
vent the cloth falling down on the icing.
This icing will keep for several days if it is
attended to, but the cloth on the top must be
kept dampi and the icing itself beaten up occa-
sionally. If once a skin is allowed to form on
the top tlirough exposure to the air, the icing
will bo spoilt for all fine purposes, and especially
for piping, aa the Uttle hard particles would
choke up the tube. Keep the icing in a cool
place.
To Ic" a Cake. - It is a comparatively easy
matter to put a plain coating of icing on a cake ;
it is when sometliing more elaborate - designs
and ornaments - are required that much patience
and practice are necessary. To begin with,
the cake must be perfectly flat ; if there is not
a coating of ahnond paste to make it so, it will
be better to trim the cake so as to make it stand
evenly, and then to turn it upside down and
ice the bottom. If cake icing is frequently
done in a house, a rotation -stand or cake -drum
should be bought, as this will simplify the pro-
cess very considerably. Fix the cake on to
the stand by means of a little icing, and then
have it raised to a convenient height for the
hand. Failing a proper cake-stand, fix the cake
on to the bottom of a cake tin turned upside
down, always choosing the tin a size smaller
than the cake itself, in order that the knife
may pass freely round it whilst icing. Then
pile on the top of the cake sufficient icing to
cover it and spread it over, quite roughly at
first, with a good -sized table-knife. Now place
the point of the knife to the centre of the cake,
holding it horizontally and steadily with the
right hand and with the left ; move the rotation -
stand round until a complete circle has been
made, when the knife may be slipped off. It
will require some practice to leave the surface
smooth after one turn of the stand, a little
touching up may be necessary, but skill will be
acquired by degrees. If the cake is being iced
without a rotation-stand, the knife must .]ust
be brought smoothly across it in one direc-
tion. If the top only of the cake is to be iced,
allow it to dry, then decorate to taste and
cover the sides with a silver or gilt paper band
or with a coloured paper frill, and perhaps a.
band of ribbon.
To Ice the Sides of a Cake. - Place some more
icing on the bare parts and spread it roughly
round with a knife. Then hold the knife
vertically and in a slanting position against the
cake, seeing that it touches the complete width,
and turn the stand round with the left hand.
Any superfluous icing should be carried off with
a swoop of the knife when the circle is finished.
If not smooth after the first attempt, repeat the
process. Touch up the edges ^vith the point of
the knife and allow the cake to dry. For a
wedding cake, two or even three coats of this
icing Bie generally put on, but one coat must
always be dry before another is added ; in fact,
if more convenient, the cake may rest for several
days between the coatings.
The next step is to decorate the cake. The
simplest method of decorating a Qiristmas or
birthday cake is to use bon-bons or preserved
GUIDE TO COOKERY
227
fruits, and these can easily be fixed in place with
a little icing. The other style of decoration,
known as " piping," is more elaborate and
requires a corisiderable amount of practice.
A few lessons from an experienced teacher
would be an immense help to a beginner. For
piping purposes bags and fancy forcing-pipes are
necessary. The pipes or tubes are made with
various-shaped openings to give different forms
to the icing pressed through them. Put some
icing into this bag and fold down the top to keep
it in. Now force out this icing as fancy dic-
tates, experimenting first on the back of a plate
or even a piece of paper until you get a definite
and regular pattern. Dots, stars, or rosettes
are easier than a long flowing pattern, and they
can be arranged very effectively. Points may
be pricked at regular intervals on the cake to
act as a guide in forming any pattern. Then
press the icing slowly through the tube, following
any device you may have in view. Of course,
this piping is an art which cannot be learned in
a day, but if it is commenced at the simple stages
and gradually worked up to something more
difficult it will be found a most fascinating em-
ployment. A little colouring may also be added
to the icing when desired.
When a cake is to be in two or three tiers, as
in the case of a wedding cake, the cakes must be
in graduated sizes, the plain coatings of icing
put on separately, and then the cakes stuck
together by means of a little icing before the
decorating or piping is commenced.
Vienna or Butter Icing
Ingredients -
6 oz. Fresh Butter. | J lb. Icing Sugar.
Method. - If salt butter must be used, wash
and work it in several cold waters, and finally
press out the water in a cloth before tising it.
Put the butter into a basin and sieve the sugar
on the top of it. Cream these two together
with a wooden spoon in the same way as for a
cake. Then add the desired flavouring and
colouring as below.
1. Coffee or Mocha Icing. - Add two table-
spoonfuls of strong coffee to the above, mixing
it in a little at a time.
2. Cliocolate Icing. - Add two or three ounces
of unsweetened chocolate dissolved in one table-
apoonful of water to the above mixture.
3. Strawberry or Raspberry Icing. - Add a
few drops of essence of strawberry or raspberry
to flavour, and colour pink with carmine.
4. Orange or Lemon Icing. - Grate the rind
off an orange or a lemon, and rub it into two
ounces of the sugar to be used for the icing.
Proceed to make the icing as above, and colour
with a little yellow colouring.
The colouring and flavouring of this icing may
be varied according to taste. Spirit or liqueur
is frequently added, such as rum, maraschino,
Curagoa, &c.
Any of the above icings may be made in half
or quarter quantities, or if a ntunber of httle
fancy cakes are to be iced, the plain butter and
sugar may be worked together first, and then
the quantity divided and different flavourings
and colours added.
To use the Icing. - The icing must be allowed
to become quite cold and hard before using. In
hot weather the basin containing the icing
should be placed on ice or put in a very cold
place. If a large plain cake is to be iced, it is
usual to split it once or twice, and put a layer
of the icing between. Sometimes for this purpose
a little thick cream is worked into the icing just
before using. Spread a thin coating of the icing
on the top and sides of the cake, and put more
of the icing in a forcing-bag, with rather a large
pipe on the end of it. Force out the icing on
the cake in stars or scrolls, and do it as quickly
as possible, before the heat of the hand has
time to soften the icing. If hked, two different
colours of icing may be used, such as yellow
and pink, yellow and brown, pink and wMte,
&c. Do not put too much of this icing on any
cake, as it is decidedly rich. Some other Ught
and suitable decoration may be used as well,
such as a little finely chopped pistachio nut,
a few rose-leaves or violets, small pieces of
angelica, &c.
GENERAL HINTS ON DECORATING
Cakes, as well as other eatables, should be
made to look pretty as well as to taste good.
Of course, many cakes are better left in their
simple state without any decoration at all, and
when this is the case ptirticular care should be
taken with the baking to avoid overcooking
or burning, and consequently an tinsightly ap-
pearance.
Under no circumstances should a cake be
over-decorated, and there are many simple
and harmless forms of decoration which may be
employed.
One of the simplest forms of decoration is a
sprinkling of sugar, or the cake may be brushed
over with white of egg and sprinkled with sugar
in two colours, or even chopped nuts.
Another simple decoration is to spread a tliin
coating of jam or jelly over the cake, and then
to sprinkle with browned or coloured almonds,
cocoanut, pistachio nuts, &c., or a mixture of
these. This is very suitable for the sides of
cakes where the top only is iced.
When a more elaborate decoration is wanted,
one of the various icings may be used. With a
large cake it is very usual to ice the top only and
then to decorate with preserved fruits, bon-bons,
or icing in two colours put through a forcing-bag.
Any decoration may be fixed in place with a
little soft icing.
228
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Pleasing efloots in colour must always be
studied. Light and delicate colours ai-e prefer-
able to the darker shades, wliich are apt to
suggest " somotliing painted."
In the decorating of little fancy cakes there
is a wide range for individual taste and arrange-
ment. With the help of the icings and decora-
tions above described, or even odds and ends
of icings, the variety of pretty cakes wliich can
be made is endless, and it is just these pretty
little cakes which cost so much to buy, and
which add so immensely to the attractiveness
of an afternoon tea-table.
The making and decorating of these cakes
require the same amount of taste and ingenuity
as any other fancy or artistic work, but it is
wonderful how many new kinds of cakes in
novel designs can be made with a little ctireful
handhng and some good-wiU.
ilost of the small fancy cakes are made up
from Genoese pastry, sponge cake, Madeira cake,
chocolate cake, orange cake, or any other plain
cake mixture. These are sliced and cut in small
fingers, diamonds, rounds, heart-shapes, &c.,
and iced or made into sandwiches. Two different
cake mixtures may be put togotRer, such as
pink and white, chocolate and wliite, chocolate
and pink, orange and pink, and so on ; and for
spreading purposes jam, marmalade, soft almond
peiste, thick flavoured custard, clotted or whipped
cream mixed with chopped nuts, sieved jam or
pieces of fruit, Vienna icing, fondant icing, and
Bo on may be used. Then a coating of icing or a
little piping in icing put on the top with some
other form of decoration. The following axe a
few examples of what may be done : -
1. Genoese pastry made into a sandwich with
raspberry jam and cut into fancy shapes.
Coated with chocolate or wliite icing, and
decorated with loav'es of angoUca and crystallised
violets.
2. Sandwich of orange cake spread with
marmal de, iced with yellow glac6, and deco-
rated with crystalUsed sections of orange, and a
Uttle chocolate icing to mark the seeds.
3. Sandwiches of chocolate cake spread with
pink Vienna icing, a piping of Vienna icing on
the top, and a few silver dragoes.
4. Sandwiches of Madeira cake spread with
soft almond paste. Spread th6 top with almond
paste, brush over with white of egg, and deco-
rate with chopped pistachio nuts or browned
almonds.
5. Sandwiches of Genoese pastry spread with
clotted cream. Coat with pale yellow fondant'
or glac6, and decorate with leaves of angelica
and red berries (bon-bons).
These hints may be varied indefinitely, and
according to what there is at hand to make the
cakes of, but they will perhaps serve as a guide
to the beginner, who, after a little practice, will
soon launch out on her own account, and be
able to make dainty morsels without any trouble
or difficulty.
THE PRESERVING AND BOTTLING OF FRUIT
JAMS AND JELLIES
HINTS ON JAM-MAKING
TjNiiESS we have a garden of our own which
supplies us with fruit, home-made jam is almost
of necessity more expensive than that wliich is
bought, although, when well made, it is beyond
doubt superior in quality.
Fruit for preserving should be uniformly
ripe, sound, and fresh, and it should bo picked,
if possible, on a dry, sunny morning, and not
with the dew upon it. If the fruit bo damp, or
even if the weather be foggy when it is gathered,
there is nothing more likely than this to prevent
the jam from keeping.
The fruit should be made into jam as soon
as possible after picking, and this is one point
whore housewives have the advantage over
manufacturers.
We must first see that the fruit is free from
dust and dirt, after which it must be picked and
all stalks removed. The harder fruits, such as
apples, plums, and gooseberries, may bo washed
before being preserved.
There are many different methods of making
jam, and opinions vary as to which is the best.
One method is to boil the sugar and water first,
and thus make a syrup to which the fruit io
added ; another is to boil the fruit by itself and
then to add the sugar in a crushed or half -melted
condition ; and a third way is to boil both sugar
and fruit together.
The sugar used for preserving should always
be of the finest - ^puro cane sugar - and crushed
or crystallised, not powdered. Inferior sugar is
expensive in the end, as it causes so much waste
by tho extra amount of scum it produces ; and
if beetroot sugar is used the jam will neither have
such a good colour nor will it keep so long. The
quantity of sugar required will vary slightly
according to the nature of the fruit used, the
usual proportion being from three-quarters to
one pound sugar to one pound of fruit. If too
little sugar is used the jam will not keep, if too
much it will candy and the flavour will not be so
good.
It is possible, but not easy, to make jam with-
out a proper preserving -pan ; an iron one would
GUIDE TO COOKERY
229
discolour the fruit, wliile a tin one is so thin
that the jam would be liable to burn. Copper,
brass, and aluminium pans are the best for the
purpose. Enamelled iron ones are also sold
and are less expensive, but jam made in them
is much more likely to burn unless it has very
careful attention. If much preserving is to be
done it will be found a wise investment to
buy a thoroughly good preserving -pan, a brass
one for preference. The greatest care must be
taken to keep the pan in good condition, and
it must always be scrupulously clean and dry
before the fruit is put in.
An iron spoon must never be used, but stir
always with a wooden or silver one. The
skimming should not be commenced too early
in the process. It is only a froth which rises
at first ; the scum itseK is very thick.
During the time the frmt and sugar are being
boiled together they must be stirred carefully
and almost constantly. Be careful, too, that
the pan is raised a little from the fire and not
directly over it, or it will be liable to burn ; on
the hot-plate of a close range is really the best
place for cooking it. It is the amount of sugar
employed in the maldng of jam which makes it
so liable to catch.
The time for cooking will depend very much
upon the method employed, the kind of fruit
used, and also upon the rate of boiling. It does
not do to let the fruit boil too slowly. As a
matter of fact, it is impossible to lay down any
hard-and-fast rule as regards time ; experience
is the best guide, as not only will the time vary
according as to whether the fruit is quickly or
slowly boiled, but the same kinds of fruits will
be found to differ, some being more watery than
others, and the more watery the fruit the longer
boiling will it require. If boiled too short a time
the jam will neither sot firmly nor keep well,
while, on the other hand, if it is boiled too long
the flavour will be spoilt and the jam become
sticky. Wlion a little of the jam, poured upon a
cold plate, sets in a few minutes, it is ready and
should be put at once into pots. It ought to be
ladled out of the pan with a silver soup -ladle or
with a cup or small jug.
The pots must be thoroughly dried beforehand,
and then filled to within quarter of an inch from
the top. If any drops are spilt on the sides of
the pots they should be immediately wiped off
with a cloth wrung out of hot water.
To cover the jam, cut rounds of thin white
paper the proper size of the pots, dip these in
brandy, whisky, or vinegar, and lay them on the
surface, then tie over each pot a piece of wetted
vegetable parchment or a gummed paper cover
sold for the purpose. Label the pots on the
sides with a written or printed label, stating tlio
name of the jam and the date when made.
(For Storing, see p. 104.)
It is impossible to give a large number of
recipes for jam and jelly -makiag in a book of
this kind, but it is hoped that the following will
give a good idea of the ordinary methods.
Apple Ginger
Proportions -
3 lbs. Apples.
3 lbs. Preserving Sugar.
6 oz. Whole Ginger.
Water.
Method. - Put the ginger into a jug or lined
saucepan with boiling water and let it infuse
by the side of the fire for several hours, keeping
it well covered. Peel the apples, cut them into
neat pieces, removing the core, and throw them
into cold water to preserve the colour. Drain
the water from the ginger and make up the
quantity to one and a half pints. Put tliis into
a preserving -pan with the sugar, bring to the boil
and boil from eight to ten minutes. Drain the
pieces of apple, throw them gently into this
sjnrup, and let them boil until transparent but
not broken. Then lift them out carefviUy, put
them into jars, and potu: the sjTup over.
Apple Jelly
Proportions. - To each pint of apple juice
allow one pound of preserving sugar and the
rind and juice of one lemon.
MetJiod. - Wash the apples and cut them in
four or six pieces, according to si2;e, without
removing the peel and cores. Put these into a
preserving-pan with just siifficient cold water to
cover them. Bring to the boil and boil gently
for one hour or longer, stirring occasionally with
a wooden spoon. ^Vlien reduced to a pulp pour
all into a jelly -bag or cloth (see below) and allow
the j\iice to drip all night. The juice ought to
be of a tliickish consistency when cold ; if very
watery either too much water has been added or
the pulp has not been sufficiently cooked.
Next day measure the juice carefully and put
it into a preserv-ing-pan with the lemon rind
peeled off thinly and tied in musUn and the lemon
juice, if Uked. Bring to the boil and add the
proper proportion of sugar. Stir carefully until
the sugar is melted, and then boil quickly fi-om
twenty to thirty minutes or until the jelly will set
when tested on a plate. The time depends very
much upon the kind of fruit used. Remove
any scum from the top before potting.
Note. - Tlais jelly may be flavoured with
whole ginger instead of lemons, or orange juice
and rind may be used instead of lemon juice and
rind.
The apple pulp may be sieved, mixed with
sugar and boiled carefully for half-an-hour, and
can be used for making puffs or an open tai't.
It will not keep long.
The Jelly-Bag or Cloth
The best strainer for jelly is a piece of hucka-
back or strong cheese-cloth. This is more easily
230
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
kept in order than the old-fashionod flannel
bag, and serves the purpose equally well. The
material may bo cither in the form of a towel tied
on the four legs of a chair (see p. 1-0), or a conical-
shapod bag may bo made with loops through
which a stick may bo put in order to suspend it
between two chairs with a basin underneath.
The jelly -bag should be well scalded with boiling
water before it is used. After the fruit has been
emptied into it no pressure must be used or the
juice will not bo clear. Tlie straining must be
done in a warm place and out of a draught, and
sufficient time must be allowed to let every
possible drop of juice run through. The best
plan is to let it drain over-night. Some people
use a hair sieve instead of a cloth, but this is not
so roomy and not such a convenient plan on the
whole.
Apricot Jam
Proportions. - To each pound of apricots
weighed after stoning allow three-quarters of a
pound preserving sugar.
Method. - Wipe the apricots, and, if time per-
mits, remove the skins. Cut them in halves with
a silver knife and take out the stones. Spread
out the apricots on large dishes and strew over
them their proper proportion of sugar. Let
them stand thus for at least twelve hours.
Meanwhile break the stones, or at least some
of them, blanch the kernels, and add them to
the apricots. Next day turn all into a preserv-
ing-pan and simmer very gently until the apricots
are clear and the jam will set. It must be stirred
very carefully, and the time required will be from
three-quarters to one hour.
Note. - Greengage Jam may be made in the
same way.
Blackberry and Apple Marmalade
Proportions. - Equal quantities of apples and
blackberries and one pound of sugar to one
pound pulp.
Method. - Wash the apples and cut them in
slices without removing skins and cores. Pick
the blackberries carefully, discarding any that
are unsound. Put both kinds of fruit into a pro-
serving-pan with just enough water to keep them
from burning. Cook until reduced to a pulp,
stirring frequently. Then rub through a hair
sieve, leaving only the skins and seeds. Return
the sieved pulp to a clean preserving-pan with
sugar in the above proportion, and stir almost
constantly for twenty minutes or until it is firm.
If this is put in small pots it can bo turned out
in shape when wanted, and is very good served
with blancmange or with cream.
Black Currant Jam
Proportions. - To throe pounds black currants
allow one pint rhubarb juice and four pounds
preserving sugar.
Method. - ^The black currants should be as ripe
as possible. Strip them from the stalks and
wash thom if they are very smoked and dirty.
Put them into a preserving-pan with the proper
portion of rhubarb juice (see p. 231), bring to
the boil, and allow the berries to simmer slowly
for fifteen minutes. Warm the sugar without
allowing it to brown and add it next. Boil with
the sugar from twenty to thirty minutes, or
until the jam will set. It must be stirred almost
constantly.
Note. - ^Raspberry or red currant juice may be
used instead of rhubarb, but either of these will
give a distinct flavour.
Black Currant Jelly
Proportions. - To one pint of black currant
juice allow one pound of sugar.
Method. - Pick the currants from the stalks
and wash them if necessary. Put them into a
double saucepan or into a jar placed in a sauce-
pan of boiling water with one gill of water or
rhubarb juice (see p. 231) to each pound of fruit,
and cook for two hours at least, or until all the
juice is drawn out. Then strain them through
a jolly-cloth or large sieve, allowing them to
drip all night. Next day measure the juice and
put it into a preserving-pan with the above
proportion of sugar. Stir carefully until the
sugar is dissolved, and then boil for half-an-hour,
or until the jelly will set.
Note. - A few red currants may be mixed
with the black.
Red currant or Cranberry jelly can be made in
the same way.
Damson and Apple Jam
Proportions -
8 lbs. Damsons. i 10 lbs. Sugar.
2 pints Apple .Tuice. I
Method. - Pick the fruit carofullj', rejecting
any that is not sound. Then wash if necessary
or rub it between the folds of a coarse towel.
Prepare the apple juice in the same way as for
apple jolly (see p. 229). Put the damsons into
the preserving-pan with their proper proportions
of sugar and apple juice and stir carefully until
they come to the boil. Take out as many stones
as possible and boil the jam for twenty minutes,
or until it will stiffen.
Note. - This jam will bo nicer if the stones can
bo removed from tho damsons before they are
used. A few of thom can then be cracked and
the kernels blanched and used for flavouring.
They should bo tied in muslin and removed
before the jam is potted, as they are too bitter
to eat.
Gooseberry and Red Currant Jam
Proportions. - To three pounds gooseberries
allow one gill red currant juico and three and a
half pounds sugar.
GUIDE TO COOKERY
231
Method. - Top and tail the gooseberries and
remove any that are unsound. Wash them
thoroughly and dry in a coarse cloth. Put
them into a preserving-pan with red currant
juice (see below) in the above proportion. Heat
the contents slowly over the fire and then boil
foF fifteen minutes. Add the sugar gradually,
and boil again until the jam will set. Skim when
necessary.
Orange Jelly
Proportions -
4 lbs. Marmalade Oranges. I 4 pints Water.
2 Lemons. ) Preserving Sugar.
Method. - Wipe the oranges and lemons with
a damp cloth, and grate off the yellow rind only.
Then remove all the white skin, which is not
used in the making of the jelly. Cut the inner
part of the oranges and lemons into small pieces,
and put it into a preserving-pan with the water.
Boil for half-an-hour, stirring frequently, then
strain through a hair sieve or jelly-bag, and
allow the juice to drop without pressure.
Measure this liquid and put it into a clean
preserving-pan, with the grated rinds and one
pound preserving sugar to each pint of juice.
Bring to the boil, and boil from ten to fifteen
minutes, or until it wiU jelly. Skim well, pour
into jars, and cover while hot.
Orange Marmalade
Proportions -
3i lbs. Marmalade Oranges. I \ pint boiling Water.
3 Lemons. Sugar (see below).
13i pints cold Water. ;
Method. - Wipe the oranges and lemons with
a damp cloth, and cut them in halves. Squeeze
out the juice on a lemon -squeesser, and strain it
into a basin. Put the pips into a smaller basin
with the boiling water, and let them stand to
extract the flavour. Cut the skins of both
oranges and lemons into very thin strips, put
them into a large basin or crock with the cold
water, and let them soak twenty-four hours.
Then pour into a preserving-pan, and boil until
the pieces of peel are quite tender. Put the
seeds with their water into a smaller saucepan,
and boil for fifteen minutes ; then strain the
water from them into the preserving-pan beside
the rest. Pour again into the basin or crock,
add the orange and lemon juice, and stand for at
least twelve hours longer. Next day measure
and allow one pound of preserving sugar to each
pint of liquid. Boil together in the preserving-
pan about twenty minutes, or until the mar-
malade will jelly. Then pour into pots, and
cover while hot.
Quince Jelly
Proporti(ms. - One povmd sugar to one pint
quince juice.
Method. - Peel, quarter and core the quinces.
Then weigh the pieces and put them into a
preserving-pan with two teacupfuls of water to
each pound of fruit. Simmer slowly until tho
fruit is quite soft, but not too pulpy or the jelly
will not be clear. Strain though a hair sieve
or jelly-cloth without pressing the pulp. Measure
the juice and put it into a preserving -pan with
the above proportion of sugar. Bring to the
boil and boil qmckly from fifteen to twenty
minutes.
Note. - ^To use the pulp that is left see under
Apple Jelly (p. 229).
Raspberry and Red Currant Jam
Proportions. - To every pound of raspberries
allow one gill of red currant juice and one and a
quarter pounds of sugar.
Method. - Stalk the currants and put them
into a double saucepan, or into a jar placed in a
saucepan of boiling water, and let them cook
until all the jmce is drawn out ; then strain
either through a flannel jelly-bag or though a
cloth, allowing the juice to drip all night.
Pick the raspberries, removing the stalks,
then weigh them, and put them into a preserv-
ing-pan with the proportion of red currant juice.
Bring to the boil and boil for ten minutes, then
add the sugar by degrees, and boil until the jam
will set, stirring almost constantly, and skimming
when necessary.
Rhubarb Jam
Proportions -
6 lbs. Rhubarb. I 3 Lemons.
6 lbs. Preserving Sugar. |
Method. - Choose some nice red-stalked
rhubarb. Wipe it and, unless young and tender,
take off the peel. Cut it into small pieces and
then weigh it. Put it into a large crock or basin
in layers with the sugar, sprinkling over with the
grated rind of the lemons. Strain the lemon
juice over, cover the basin, and stand for twenty-
four hours.
Next day povir off the liqmd and as much of
the melted sugar as possible into a preser\'ing-
pan and boil for ten minutes. Put in the
rhubarb and boil all together from half to tliree-
quarters.of an horn" or until the jam will set.
It must be stirred very frequently and skimmed
when necessary.
Note. - This jam may be flavoiu-ed with ginger
if preferred, or oranges may be used instead of
lemons. A few blanched and shredded almonds
may be added.
Rhubarb Juice
Rhubarb juice may be used instead of water in
the maldng of many jams, especially in the
preserving of the less juicy fruits. Its flavour is
so delicate that it does not overpower the special
232
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
fruit with wliich it is used. Wash tho rhubarb,
but do not ixvl it unless tho skin is very coarse,
as this helps to give a pink colour. Cut it up in
small pieces and put it into a largo jar with just
onougli water to moisten the base. Cover the
Jar and steam in a saucepan of water, or cook in
the oven until the juico is drawn out of the
rhubarb. Tlien strain through a jelly -cloth or
clean hair sieve.
Rowan Jelly
Proportions. - To each pint of rowan juice
allow one pound sugar.
Method. - Pick and wash the rowans and put
them into a preserving -pan with just enough
water to prevent them burning. Cook slowly
until the berries are reduced to a pulp ; then
strain in order to get the clear liqmd. Measure
this and return it to a clean pan. Bring to the
boil and add the proper proportion of sugar.
Then boil quickly for twenty minutes or until
tho jelly will set, skimming when necessary.
Strawberry Jam
Proportions. - Allow throo-queirtors of a pound
preser\'ing sugar to each pound of strawberries.
Method. - Choose small or medium-sized red
strawberries, and remove the husks and any
decayed ones before weighing. Put tliem into a
preser\ang-pan and boil them for haK-an-hour,
stirring almost constantly. During this time
allow the proper proportion of sugar to warm in
the oven without taking coloiir. Add it to tho
strawberries and boil the two together, stirring
all the time for another half-hour or until the
jam will set.
Note. - Tlie addition of one gill of red currant
juice to each pound of strawberries will much
improve the flavour of this jam. It should be
added with the sugar.
Proportions -
4 lbs. Tomatoes.
4 lbs. Sugar.
Tomato Jam
1 pint Water.
Method. - Tho red home-grown tomatoes are
the best. Wipe them and put into a basin with
boiling water to cover them. Allow them to
remain for a few minutos, then lift them out and
peel them. Next cut them into quarters and
remove the hard pieces from tho end and some
of tho seeds. Put tho seeds, skins, and one pint
of the water in which the tomatoes were soaked
into a saucepan, boil for half-an-hour and strain.
Th. n put tho sugar and this strained liquid into
a preserving-pan and bring them to the boil.
Add the tomatoes and boil until the jam will set,
stirring almost constantly.
Note. - A little lemon juice or ^nger may be
added if liked.
Vegetable Marrow Jam
Proportions. - To each pound of prepared
m£irrow allow one pound sugar, half a lemon, and
half ounce whole ginger, water.
Meilwd. - The vegetable marrows should bo
medium-sized and fresh. Wash, dry, and peel
them. Then cut in slices an inch thick. Stamp
out the seeds with a round cutter and cut the
rings in blocks an inch in width. Weigh the
marrow and put it into a largo basin with tho
proper proportion of sugar, tlie grated rind and
juice of lemon and the ginger broken in small
pieces. Put the skins and seeds into a saucepan
with water to cover them and boil haK-an-hour.
Then strain, and allow one gill of this liquid to
each pound of marrow. Pour this into tho basin,
cover, and stand for twenty-four hours.
Next day boil all together, stirring almost
constantly until the pieces of marrow look
transparent, and the liquid will jelly when tested
on a plate. From three-quarters to one hour
will be required.
THE ART OF BOTTLING FRUIT
The valuable notes following have been quoted
by kind permission from " The Book of Fruit-
Bottling" by Edith Bradley avd May Crooke,
published by John Lane.
Until the last few years, when there has been
a decided renewal in the industry, fruit-bottling
had become almost a lost art. Perhaps it ro-
qxiires more of that leisure and composure which
we of to-day so sorely lack. And yet fruit-
bottling is essentially a work for ladies, whether
it be for the replenishment of their own store-
rooms or as a pleasant and convenient means oi.'
adding a trifle to a straitened income.
It is by no means laborious, but interesting,
pleasant and healthy, though at the same time
it demands tho utmost nicety, cleanliness, and
attention to details ; and it is just in this
minute attention to detail that an uneducated
cook so often fails. All fruits may be - nay,
should be - bottled. The method is admirably
suited to those pai'ticular fruits which are least
in flavour when fresh gathered, as black currants
and damsons. These, when bottled and kept
six or eighteen months (or even longer), are veistly
improved. They lose that element of roughness,
almost acridity, which in tlio fresh fruit some-
times runs round the mouth and makes one
shudder.
First of all the fruit must be sterilised, and for
this a special steriliser must be used.
The follo%ving simple directions for using tho
Mercia Steriliser (and in general terms the same
will hold good for other kinds) may be of use to
those who are tempted to take up this fascinating
occupation.
It will bo easier, however, to describe the
steriliser after explaining tho process of stcrilisa-
GUIDE TO COOKERY
233
tion. Sterilisation is briefly this - to make
sterile or deprive of vitality the bacteriological
germs which cause decay and putrefaction in
fruit and vegetables, as well as in other forms of
food. If these germs axe destroyed and kept
from approaching the sterilised object again,
it will keep perfectly sound and good for a con-
siderable time, possibly an vmhmited time.
This result is brought about by the following
process. The article (fruit or vegetable) to be
sterilised is packed into a glass jar or bottle,
which is then filled with cold water and closed
either by a metal or glass cap fastened by a cUp
or a screw ; the bottles are placed in a vessel
containing cold water ; heat is applied in one form
or another, and the temperature of the water
bath is slowly raised lontil it is svtfficiently high
inside the glass jars to kill the bacteriological
germs. The exact degree of heat required to
destroy the germs varies considerably according
to the object wliich is being sterilised ; in fact,
some fruits and some vegetables require three
or four successive sterilisations (by which first
one bacteriological family and then another are
destroyed) to bring about the required con-
ditions.
The hot air and steam by which the bottles in
the steriUser or other vessel are now siurounded
causes the water or juice inside the bottles to
get hot and expand until it reaches the air-tight
capsule or cover. The requisite temperature is
sustained for some time at an equal height until
the process is complete (this can be determined
to a nicety by the fixed thermometer), and the
bottles are either lifted out and put into a cool
place, or else cold wacer Ls tin-ned into the
machine whilst the bottles are in it (the hot water
having been previously drawn off). With the
decreasing temperature the vacuum is created,
and unless the caps or tops are imperfect or
imperfectly adjusted, and so admit the air, the
contents of the jar, as before stated, will keep
for any length of time, because germs do not
incubate in a vacuum. This, then, is the
theory carried out by the process of sterilisation.
If sufficiently complete, and, as before stated,
the requisite temperatm-es for the different
fruits and vegetables have been proved, and
these temperatures have been registered by a
thermometer, the vacuum is attained and the
germs made sterile. It may chance, however,
that the rubber bands or the caps are not placed
on the bottles quite evenly, or, if the cap is
screwed, that the screw ring is not quite perfect ;
then if from one cause or another air is admitted,
as a ceriaia consequence the vacuum is destroyed,
the germs come into life, and immediately begin
to cause decay and decomposition or fermenta-
tion. If this is not at once noted, and the batch
of bottled fnut re-sterilised and re-capped, it
will all go bad.
In the Mr rcia Patent Steriliser every attempt
has been made tc put upon tlu market a steri-
liser which is the outcome of practical experience,
presented in a portable, tangible, practical, and
workmanUke form, and at a price which brings
it within the reach of all who £ire taking the
bottling of fruit year by year seriously.
It is made in three si^es of the best steeled tin.
The leirgest. A, takes twenty-five bottles, holding
Mercla Steriliser.
two poiinds each, i.e. fifty pound of fruit -
price £4. The second siz;e, B, takes twelve
bottles, containing two pound each - price £3, 3s.
The third size, C, which is for household use,
holds six bottles, containing two pounds each,
or nine smaller ones - price 1 8s.
Upon the copper bottom of the vessel stands
a low tin shelf pierced with holes. The bottles,
when filled, stand on this sheH, and it prevents
them from cracldng, as they are liable to do,
by coming into too close contact with the heating
vmderneath. In the Ud is an aperture in wliich
is inserted a socket ; into tins socket is screwed
(when it is required) a specially constriicted
thermometer, consisting of a long tube, the bulb
of which reaches about midway down the
bottles which contain the fruit for sterilising
(see illustration). As will be readily understood,
when the water in which the bottles is immersed
is heated and turned into steam, the temperature
at which the process is actually going on is
registered on the porcelain scale above the hd,
and it is thus possible to adjust the temperature
to a degree. Tlie necessary heat for the Mercia
steriliser can be supplied either by using a small
oil stove or gas-burner and raising the steriliser
on a strong stand above it, or Jhe ordinary
kitchen range upon wliich the sterihser may
stand.
Special bottles must be used with lip and clip
or screw-top lid, and the cost of these generally
amounts to 3d. or -Id. each. The bottles will do
again year after year, only the caps and rings
will require renewal each season. They are to
be obtained by the dogen from the Mercia
Agricultural Store, Bredon's Norton, near
Tewkesbury.
Tlie best fruits for bottling are gooseberries,
cherries, raspberries, apricots, plums, damsons,
234
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
blackberries, tomatoes, apples, and pears.
Strawberries can also bo successfully bottled,
but they require more caro and trouble than
other fruits, because they are so much softer.
Gooseberries. - Gooseberries are the easiest of
all fruits to bottle, and as a rule give the most
satisfactory results. The following directions
should be carefully followed. Have the bottles
reawly, making sure tliat tliey are perfectly clean
and quite dry. The gooseberries should be
picked when green and hard, and before they get
too large. For bottling they ought always to
be picked in the same condition as that in which
they are tised for green gooseberry tart. Before
putting the fruit into the bottles it should be
topped and tailed, and to ensure a good appear-
ance when finished it is always best to grade the
fruit and only put berries in which are the same
si?e, rejecting any that are too large and not
sound, or are disfigured in any way. These can
always be used up in the preservnng-pan. Pack
the fruit closely into the jaxs without bruising
to within an inch of the top, and fill up with cold
water or sjTup to the very top of the bottle.
Do not put on the cap at once, as the water often
sinks when it has worked its way down among
the fruit. If this happens the bottles should
be filled up again, as the fruit ought always to be
well covered.
Capping the Bottles. - The bottles are now
ready for capping, and much of the success
depends upon the care taken in capping. The
india-rubber rings are next put on. Have ready
a basin of hot water, and before laying the ring
on the mouth of the bottle dip it into hot water
for a second or two. This makes the rubber
more flexible and more likely to lie flat, which
is an important point. When the ring is in its
place put on the metal cap. Care must be taken
to place it on the bottle perfectly straight. The
spring clip is then put on, and the bottle is ready
to go into the steriliser. Imperfect capping is
often due to the ring or the cap ^ being care-
lessly put on. This allows the air to get in,
and prevents the bottle becoming hermetically
sealed, as it should be.
Sterilising the Fruit. - The bottles are now
placed in the steriliser. They should stand
just clear of each other. A sufficient quantity
of cold water is put in to cover the bottle three
parts of the, way up. The lid is then put on
and the thermometer screwed into its socket.
The temperature generally registered at this
stage is about 60№. It is very gradually allowed
to rise until it reaches 155№. An increase of two
degrees a minute is enough. If the temperature
is allowed to go up with a rush the skin of the
fruit in the bottles will be cracked. It nearly
always takes an hour, if not more, before the
required temperature is reached. The bottles
should be kept at 155№ for forty-five minutes.
If gas or oil is used for the heating this is easily
done by regulating the flame. At the end of
forty-five minutes the bottles are taken out and
put to cool. If a screw-topped bottle is used
the loose rim is now tightly screwed down.
\Vhere the spring clip is used it is loft on till
the bottles are quite cold. \Vlaen tliis stage has
been reached (probably the next day) each
bottle should be examined to see if the cap is
perfectly tight ; if so it has become hermetically
sealed, and will only move by presstu-e from
without, such as the insertion of a knife between,
cap and rubber ring to raise it. This will be
a proof of the fruit keeping. If any are found
imperfectly capped they should be re-sterilised ;
but a careful examination should be made of the
cap to see if it fits properly or not, as a cer-
tain percentage of those sent out are sure to
be faulty.
Cherries. - The Kentish cherry is excellent for
preserving in this way. Pick the cherries off
their stalks and pack in the bottles. The fruit
should be firm but nearly ripe. \Vlien packing
shake the bottle gently up and down so that
the fruit may fit in closely. If the fruit is
pricked at one end with a needle it prevents
bursting. Fill up the bottles with syrup or
water. Proceed as indicated in the foregoing
recipe and sterilise at 150№. Another method
is to split the cherries in half with a sharp knife,
take out the stones, crack sonr.e, and return
the kernels to the bottles wheji packing. This
latter method keeps the fruit a beautiful colour,
but it would be well to use syrup instead of
water, because, preserved in this way, they are
richer in flavour and appearance.
Raspberries and Red Currants. - ^Raspberries
and currants together make one of the very
best fruits for winter use. They are always
liked, and as they keep their coloiu- well when
bottled they look appetising. Discrimination
should be used in the weather for bottling, and
a specially dry day should be chosen for doing
soft fruits, for if saturated with rain they lose
their flavour, and do not keep as well as when
picked on a warm dry day. The oiirrants
should be carefully picked off their stalks and
also the raspberries. Place a layer of raopberries
about one inch thick first in the bottle, and
shake gently down ; then place a layer of red
currants. Proceed in this manner till the
bottles are filled to within an inch of the top.
Fill up and proceed as in the foregoing recipes.
Sterilise at 155№.
Syrup for Bottled Fruits. - Sometimes it is
desirable to bottle the fruit in syrup instead of
water only. The following is a good recipe :
To every quart of water allow half a pound of
the best cane sugar. Bring to the boil and con-
tinue to boil at 212№ for half-an-hour, taking caro
to skim when necessary. Pour the syrup into
a vessel and keep till quite cold before pouring
over the fruits.
The foregoing directions can be applied,
broadly speaking, to all soft fruits enumerated
GUIDE TO COOKERY
235
at the commencement of the chapter. The tem-
perature must also depend upon the quality of
the fruit. K young and tender 155№-160№ is a
usual standard. The time occupied in sterilis-
ing varies with the fruit ; larger frmt, such as
plums, require twenty-five minutes, pears one
hour, apricots forty-five minutes, poaches forty-
five minutes, tomatoes thirty minutes, rhubarb
twenty minutes.
Plums. - Plums should be quite freshly gathered
for bottling, and only those of a fairly good
size should be used. The smaller plums can
always be turned into jam. The fruit should be
quite firm and not quite ripe. For all the stone
fruits it is better to use the larger bottles, as
with the smaller bottles the mouths are not
large enough to allow tlie insertion of any very
fine fruit. The packing of plums in the bottles
is an important item, because if the fruit is not
proper 1}- packed the bottles present a very ugly
appearance when finished. To pack properly
the fruit must be graded, and plums chosen as
near of a size as possible. It is always best to
make a good beginning by getting three even
fruits if possible into the bottom of a bottle.
When the lowest round is started properly the
rest of the packing is fairly simple. The bottles
should be gentlj' shaken from side to side, and a
round piece of wood with a blunt end should be
used to help to slide the fruit gently into place.
Great care must be taken not on any account to
break the skin. Some people prick their fruit
with a steel knitting-needle at the stalk end to
prevent the skin breaking, but we have serious
doubts whether anything is gained by so doing.
The bottles, after packing, are filled up with
syrup or water. When very large plums are
used, they may be cut in half with a dessert-
knife, and the stones extracted and cracked.
Tlie kernels may then be distributed among the
fruit in the bottles.
Sterilising Plums.- When placed in the
steriliser the temperature should be brought
up very gradually till it reaches 160№. If the
plums are in good condition the temperature
should rise to this point without the skin crack-
ing, but if the fruit is at all soft 155№ will be
sufficient. Victorieis, Czars, and Monachs are
the best varieties for preserving. The well-
known Pershore plum must not bo forgotten, as
it bottles admirably. Damsons can be bottled
in the same way.
Apricots,Peaches,and Nectarines. - These fruits,
unless quite small, should be cut in halves,
always remembering to use a dessert -knife, as a
steel knife will not only make the fniit taste
but mark it and turn it brown or black. The
stones should be cracked and some of the
kernels placed amongst the fruit when packing.
The packing of the fruit is a slightlj' difficult
operation. The halves should overlap each
other evenly up the sides of the bottle, no space
being left. Before trying packing of this sort
it would be well to purchase a properly packed
bottle and use it as a modeL Care must be taken
that all the juice which the fruit loses when it is
being cut is saved and put into the bottles with
the kernels. This can be done by halving the
fruit on a plate. As these are choice fruits,
syrup may be used in the bottling instead of
water. When used the fruit must not be ripe,
but quite firm. Care must be taken not to
bruise it when placing in the bottles. Bring
them gradually up to a temperature of 155№,
following in all cases the general directions for
bottling.
Apples and Pears must be carefully and evenly
peeled before bottling. They should be cut
down the middle as already ad\ased for peaches,
&c., removing the cores. Have ready a basin
of water into which some lemon juice has been
8quee:?ed ; drop the fruit into this, and then
fiU the bottles with the fruit so prepared, and at
once add the water or syrup. If there is any
delay the fi-uit will turn brown, and it is to
prevent this happening that it is dropped into the
basin of water, the lemon juice keeping it white.
Tomatoes may be taken either as fruit or
vegetable. Generally they come under the head
of the latter, but as either they are most excellent
bottled. They require a little more trouble
than most other fruits to bottle successfully.
They should be used small, and just coloured,
as they have to be done at a high temperatxire,
in order to ensure complete sterilisation. In
places where tomatoes are grown in quantities
the small ones are often reserved for bottUng.
Pack in bottles as directed for plums, and cover
with water. Bring the temperature up to 170№.
Take out of the steriliser after an hour at this
temperature, and leave for twenty -foxir hours ;
then repeat sterilisation at 170№. Again leave
for two or three days, and again sterilise at the
same temperature. By doing them thus three
times they will remain like fresh fruit, and can
be kept for any length of time.
THE TABLE '
\ GOOD housewife will not rest content with the fact that the meals in her house are well cooked.
She will also see to it that they are well served, knowing that dainty table equipment and skilful
8er\'ice does much to enliance the enjoyment of the fare provided.
This article deals with all the many important subjects bearing upon table service, including
the fittings and arrangement of the pantry and its contents ; the choice of silver, china, cutlery, and
class : the arrangement of a menu, with order of coxirses ; valuable hints are also given in regard to
the choice of wines, and the rules which govern waiting at table in every refined and well-ordered
house.
THE PANTRY
Where more than one servant is kept a small
pantry is a very necessary apartment in a house,
as it enables the maid who has charge of the
table arrangements to do all her washing up
without interfering with the work of the cook
or getting in her way.
In large establishments the pantry would be
the special sanctum of the butler. In it he
would keep all the silver, glass, and china that
came under his care, as well as the supply of
wine that was required for immediate use.
There would also be a small table or desk at
wluch he could write his orders and make up
his books.
In smaller houses the pantry need not be a
spacious apartment, but even a small place
conveniently fitted up will be found a great
convenience, not only to the table-maid but
also to the ladies of the house, as it is a
place where they can do any washing of tea
dishes or fine china, preparing of dessert, cutting
bread and butter for afternoon tea, and the
arranging of flowers, &c., without having to
enter the cook's domain.
A pantry should be fitted with a small sink
with hot and cold water - supply. At the
side of the sink there should bo a good -sized
draining-board on which wet dishes can bo
placed, above the sink a plate-rack in which
to drain plates, wlulo a small cupboard fitted
underneath would be a useful receptacle for
plate powder, silver brushes, furniture polish,
ammonia, soap powder, and other indispensable
articles for cleaning purposes. Another neces-
sary fitting is a dresser. It should be provided
wiih two or throo drawers in which glass cloths,
dusters, leathers, and furniture sheets could bo
kept, one drawer being reserved for the maid's
private use. The lower part of the dresser should
be fitted with cupboards di\'ided off into separate
portions. One part might bo reserved for clean-
ing utensils, another for larger dishes, and a third
as a small store for sugar, jam, butter, &c. Then
above the dresser there should be a nice high
narrow cupboard, with sliding glass doors if
possible, for holding china, glass, cruets, sugar
basins, jam dishes, &c. If this is large enough
one portion of it might hold a reserve supply
of china and glass and be kept locked.
Other useful fittings would be a small pulley
or rail for drying towels and a rack for holding
two or three brushes.
If room permits there might be a good solid
table in the pantry and also a chair on which
the maid could sit down while doing her silver
cleaning and other work of the kind.
The floor should be covered with cork carpet
or Unoleum and the walls papered v.'iih a good
washing paper or coated with a light-colovired
ripolin or distemper, which could easily be re-
newed when dirty.
The pantry should contain all that the table-
maid requires for cleaning purposes, and the
sink must be supplied \\ath one or two tubs
and other necessary appliances for washing up.
It is a good plan also to hang up somowliore in
the pantry a list of all glass, cliina, &c. ; this list
shoiiid be checked periodically by the mistress
and servant together.
Cleanliness and order in the pantry are very
important. Each time the sink is used it should
be scrubbed out with hot water and then thor-
oughly rinsed with cold. Tho dresser and table
should be scrubbed onoe a week and tho floor
washed when necessary. No dirty towels or
dish cloths should be seen lying about, and a
pride should be taken in the neat arrangement
of the cupboards. (For " Washing Up," see p. 76.)
SILVER AND CUTLERY
Choice of Silver. - ^There are few families,
except perhaps the very wealthy, who care to
use solid table silver every day, for even if they
THE TABLE
237
are fortunate enough to possess a set it is care-
fvilly guarded under lock and key and only
brought out on special occasions, and with the
exception perhaps of a few small articles, such as
salt and mustard spoons, pepperettes, butter-
knives, sugar-tongs, electro-plate is rnade to do
duty for ordinary use.
Although silver costs about three times as
much as electro -plate, it must be remembered
that it will last for years without requii-ing any
repair, and can even be handed down from
generation to generation.
Solid silver is sold by weight and fluctuates
a little in price, but the current price for table
silver is about the following : - table-spoons and
forks from £i, 12s. per dozen, dessert-spoons
and forks from £2, 15s. per dozen, and tea-spoons
from 30s. per doz;en.
SoUd silver is one of the things which can
often be bought very well second-hand, and in
most large towns reliable shops are to be found
where it can be obtained at fairly moderate
prices.
Electro-Plate. - A good quality should always
be bought, as the plating soon wears off the
cheaper makes. Good electro-plate ought to
last from twenty to thirty years without re-
quiring any renewing. For those who have only
a small amount to spend on silver and who are
not fortunate enough to have it given to them
as a present when they start housekeeping, it is
better to purchase a little of a good quaUty
rather than full sets of an inferior kind. There
are several regulation patterns such as Old
English, King's, Bead or Thread, and Rat Tail,
so that additions can al'^ays be made by degrees,
as the best plated goods are sold by tlae single
article when required. The above patterns are
all simple and will easily be kept in order ; in
fact, heavily ornamented patterns are rarely
seen nowadays.
The price of electro-plate varies, but, roughly
speaking, good electro-plate of a quality that
will last for j'ears can be had at the following
prices : - table-spoons and forks from 25s. per
dozen, dessert-spoons and forks from 19s. 6d.
per dozen, and tea-spoons from 9s. per dozen.
When electro-plate begins to look shabby it
can be replated for about the followingcharges: -
table-spoons and forks from 17s. 6d. per dozen ;
dessert-spoons and forks from 13s. per dozen,
and tea-spoons from 7a. per dozen. (For the
Cleaning of Silver, see p. 74.)
Choice ol Cutlery. - As in the case of electro-
plate, so with cutlery, a low-priced article is the
c
3
Knife with Throagh-Tang Rivet.
reverse of economical ; not only will the handles
of cheap knives be badly fixed, but the blades will
be made of a soft steel which never takes a
proper edge. It is a wise policy, therefore, to
buy knives the blades of which are made of tho
best Sheffield steel, and to see that they are fixed
to the handles with what is called the through-
tang rivet, which never comes undone.
There is a choice of materials for the handles,
the cheapest of which are bone and horn ; then
comes ivorine and ivoride, which is the nearest
appoach to real ivory that can possibly be made ;
and, lastly, fine African ivory and sterhng silver-
plated handles.
Real ivory and sterling silver are rather
expensive articles, and most people have to
content themselves with one of the cheaper
materials. The following will be a fair price to
pay for really good articles : -
Best white Bone Handles with Through-Tang : -
Table-knives from 133. 6d. per dozen, dessert-
knives from I2s. per dozen, joint or game
carvers from 5s. per pair, steel Is. 9d.
Imitation Ivory Handles : - Table-knives from
17s. 6d. per dozien, dessert-knives from 14s. per
dozen, joint or game carvers from 6s. per pair,
steel 2s. 4d.
African Ivory Handles : - Table-knives from
38s. per dozen, dessert-knives from 30s. per
dozen, joint or game carvers from 12s. 6d. per
pair, steel 4s. 3d.
Knives will cost about 2s. 6d. per dozien less
without the tang fastening. New blades can
always be fitted to good ivory handles at a
reasonable charge. (For the Care and Cleaning
of Knives, see p. 76.)
CHINA AND GLASS
Choice of China. - Now that both china and
glass can be bought at such moderate prices and
in such artistic shapes and pretty colours, there
is no excuse for any one to have what is chipped
and ugly on theu- tables. Although some of
the china dealers of to-day make specialities
of tea and dinner services of the most gaudy
colouring and in the most impossible patterns,
and ornament them with a liberal supply of
gilt, there are other manufacturers who reproduce
the most tasteful designs of Wedgwood, Spode,
and the famous old Crown Derby Wares.
The choice of china is very much a matter
of taste and circumstances, and space will not
permit of giving many details regarding designs
and price, as these are so niamerous and varied.
Before selecting it is advisable to send for the
catalogues of some of the largest firms and to
visit their show-rooms. Slany valuable ideas
may be gleaned in this way.
The frugal housewife whoso means are limited
and who will in all probability have to leave
her china in the hands of inexperienced servants,
will do well to buy the strong make of stone-
ware or semi-porcelain for every-day use and
to choose a style which can be renewed when
pieces are broken.
Such patterns as the willow, delf, rose-bud.
238
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
-white fluted, and wliite with a gilt or coloured
band are always stocked. Strong colouring
should always be avoided whether for tea,
breakfast, or dinner services, and it must be re-
membered that the price will bo influenced very
much by the amount of good gilt and also
■upon the novelty of the design and shape.
A Dinner Service. - W\\en choosing a dinner
service it is better to select one in which the
centre of the dishes and plates is white, as
food always looks more appetising when served
on a light surface. Choose also a porcelain
that will wear well and that will not chip and
crack with the heat. China can either be bought
in largo or small sets for six or twelve persons,
or single pieces can be bought in quite a number
of different patterns by paying at a little higher
rate. A nice set of what is called the " cottage "
size can be bought from a guinea upwards con-
sisting of the following pieces, while a medivun
set will cost from about £1, l-4s. 6d. upwards -
Cottage Set (52 pieces) : - Twelve meat plates,
twelve pudding or pie plates, twelve cheese
plates, two covered dishes, six meat dishes, two
sauce tureens.
Medium Set (81 pieces) : - ^Twenty-four meat
plates, twenty -four pie plates, twelve soup
plates, seven dishes, two covered dishes, two
sauce tureens, one soup tureen, one fish drainer.
It must be remembered that in houses where
there are a number of people or where small
dinner-parties are given, the number of plates
must not be too limited.
Tea and Breakfast Sets. - A small tea and
breakfast service in plain ware can be bought for
6s. or 7s. and upwards, and in china from 16s. to
17s. and upwards. They would consist of the
following pieces : -
Tea Set (40 pieces) : - ^Twelve tea-cups and
saucers, twelve tea plates, two cake plates, one
slop basin, one cream jug.
Breakfcutt Set for Six (29 pieces) : - Six cups and
saucers, six plates, two cake plates, one slop
basin, one eugar basin, one milk jug, six egg cups.
Choice of Glass. - Not a little of the handsome
appearance of a well-set dinner -table may be
ascribed to its array of shining well-kept and
well-polished glass. The table glass should
always be of as good a quality as possible, and
the design should bo characterised by its rffinod
simplicity. Too much design and ornamentation
is a mistake, as it tends to rob the glass of that
bright transparency which forms the great charm
of its appearance. But here, again, unless the
glass is always under the care of a reliable ser-
vant, it is best to buy it of not too fine a quality
and of a design that can be easily replaced. Very
th'n glass is no doubt appreciated by those who
like dainty articles, but it requires the utmost
care in the washing and drying. When cut glass
cannot bo afforded, plain thinnish glass or plain
glass with a little engraving looks the best.
Very good plain tumblers can be had from 4d.
each or with a little engraving from 6s. 6d. per
dozen, while a cut glaiss tumbler will cost from
about Is. upwards.
Wine-glasses are made in various sizes to suit
the different wines for which they are used ;
the form changes with fashion, but they should
always match the tumblers in quality and design.
Coloured wine-glasses were at one time much
in vogue, but people of taste now appreciate
the fact that the wliite wine -glasses of tasteful
design are infinitely preferable.
Decanters also should be carefully chosen
with due regard to their design. More orna-
mentation in the way of cutting or engraNang is
allowable in the case of all kinds of decanters.
HOME DINNERS
No matter how simplo a meal may bo, it
should be put neatly upon the table and made
attractive to the eye. There are certain table
refinements wliich are within the reach of the
very humblest ; they may not be essentials, but
they are beyond doubt among the ameliorating
influences of life which help to cultivate the
mind and improve the manners. The every-day
dinner should be as carefully prepared as the
more formal meal when visitors are expected.
The decoration of the table may be simpler, the
number of courses fewer, and the dishes less
expensive, but so far as the appointments are
concerned they should receive the same attention.
Under these conditions if paterfamilias should
take it into his head to bring in a friend to dinner
without any previous notification of his intention
of so doing, no disturbance will be caused by the
arrival of the unexpected guest - rather \vill he
be looked upon as a welcome addition to the
family party.
The dinner -hour mvist be chosen with due
regard to the needs and employments of the
various members of the household, and, if
possible, let it be at an hour when it does not
require to be hurried over. It should bo made
a time of relaxation, when there can be pleasant
and cheerful conversation, and worries and care
are, for tho moment at least, laid aside. It is
a well-known fact that a cheerful frame of
mind is a valuable aid to digestion.
Having fixed upon an hour see that the meal
is punctually attended and punctually served.
The very best cooking will be spoiled if the
dinner has to bo kept back owing to the un-
punctuality of some member of the family,
while, on the other hand, tho cook who cannot
send up a dinner to time should remember that
a meal that has to be waited for often fails to
be appreciated. Regularity is also good from
a health point of view, and for those who are
delicate it is all the more important.
The dishes given may be as simple and in-
expensive as possible, but let them bo well
cooked and nicely served.
THE TABLE
239
Then the arrangement is an important con-
sideration- we do not all possess beautiful china
and glass, and the choicest silver and damask,
but it is possible to have even the simplest things
spotlessly clean and bright and to have them
arranged with order and taste.
And, again, no table should be considered
properly laid unless decorated with some flowers
or ferns. Some people may consider this an
extravagance, but a small quantity is all that
is required, and if flowers are scarce or too
expensive, any plant which looks fresh and
healthy or even some pretty foliage can take
their place.
The dining-room itself ought to be in order
and free from dust, and there should be a tidy
fireplace and a bright fire burning in the grate
if the weather is cold. Also pay attention to
the ventilation of the room, as a stuffy atmos-
phere tends to spoil the appetite ; so if the room
has been occupied beforehand, let the windows
be thrown open for a few minutes at least before
the meal is served.
The clean cloth, the bright silver and glass,
the tidy and pleasant room with the tasteful floral
decoration will all add to the enjoyment of the
meal. It may not be every one who bestows
direct attention upon these details, but they
affect the naind none the less. There is some-
thing elevating in beauty and order, whereas
an untidy table is just as degrading as a slovenly
dress. Let us make the home dinner as attrac-
tive as possible, and the simplest meal will then
give satisfaction.
SETTING -^HE TABLE
The Informal Dinner. - Before the actual laying
of the cloth there are certain preliminaries in the
pantry, or in the kitchen if there is no pantry,
which should be attended to. The cruets, for
instance, will require attention. The salt-
cellars should be filled with fine salt free from
lumps, the surface made perfectly smooth, and
a clean bright spoon laid across the top. The
mustard-pots should be filled with well-made
mustard. ^Vhen fresh mustard is required,
mix it first in a small cup and never in the pot
itself. It must be mixed with a little water
and beaten until perfectly smooth, and be of a
consistency that will not run off the side of the
plate. A pinch of salt should always be added.
If French mustard is preferred, mix the dry
mustard with vinegar instead of water, or half
vinegar and half water. Tarragon vinegar is
best. Tl)e pepperettes should also be well
filled with wliite pepper, black being unsuitable
for table use. Large cruets are not used now
as a rule, but if bottles of any kind are put on
the table, they should be clean and bright and
the stands themselves kept in good order.
Next consider the number of people to be
laid for, and count out the glasses reqviired and
rub them up, and fill the water-bottles with
fresh water. Collect the necessary knives and
examine the steel parts to see that they are free
from tarnish. The bread too that is required
should be put on the platter or small pieces put
in a bread-basket. All these articles should be
put on a tray and carried to the dining-room
as soon as the table-cloth and sideboard-cloth
have been laid.
Then in the dining-room itseK see that the
room is in order and well ventilated and the
fireplace tidy before beginning to lay the cloth.
A dining-room table is usually made with
leaves which can be taken out and put in as
required according to the number of persons to
be seated. An oval or round table is considered
more sociable than a square or oblong one and
will accommodate more people, but the shape
is of little importance as long as the table is of a
suitable height and size for individual needs.
An under-covering or " silence cloth " should
first be laid on the table to prevent hot dishes
spoiling the polish of the wood, to give the table-
cloth a smoother and better appearance, and
also to deaden the sound when silver, dishes, &c.,
are laid down. This can either be an old
woollen table-cloth of some light colovir, a piece
of blanket or serge, or a piece of cotton felt-
ing or interlining sold for the purpose. This
silence cloth should be about six inches larger
than the table all round, and to keep it in position
it may either be tied to the four legs by means
of tapes, or hemmed and drawn up beneath the
edges with a running string.
The table-cloth itself must be laid on per-
fectly even and as smoothly as possible, the
centre of the cloth in the centre of the table, and
the sides hanging gracefully with the creases in
a straight line. As the appearance of the table
will depend very much on the kind of table-
cloth used, an effort should be made to have this
as clean and vmruffled as possible.
Next lay a carving-cloth at one or both ends of
the table or wherever there is carving or serving
to be done. This cloth may either be sqxiare or
oblong - ^very pretty cloths with hem-stitched
or fringed edges are sold for the pm-pose, but,
failing these, an ordinary serviette of a large
size will do very well.
Spread the sideboard also with a cloth and the
dinner-waggon or butler's tray if required. In
small houses and flats it is sometimes more con-
venient to have the latter placed just outside
the dining-room door.
Now put the flowers or any other decoration
on the table (see p. 253), as this is more easily
arranged before the glasses, &c., are placed on
the table.
In the allowance of space a good rule to go
by is to allow twenty inches at least for each
person's accommodation, but if the table is
large a little more room does not matter. It is
a good plan to place round the serviettes before
240
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
laj'ing the rest of the cover, as this vnll give
an idea of the amount of space available. Tho
fancy and artistic folding of sorvdottes is quite
out of fasliion for tho moment and is only to be
Been in hotels and restaurants. When clean
they should be simply folded, and after they have
been used put into rings.
The silver required must next bo taken from
the sideboard and everj-thing must bo carried
to the table on a tray and not in the hands.
Put a table-knife at tho right-hand side and a
fork at the left for each person, leaving room for
a plate to be placed between, and place a small
dessert-spoon and fork horiz;ontally across tho
top, the handle of tho spoon to tho right-hand
side and that of tho fork to the left. If fish is
to be served, place a fish-knife and fork outside
the other knife and fork, as they will bo required
first ; if soup, a table-spoon on the right-hand
side, and if cheese, a small knife at the right-
hand side next the plate. Everytliing must be
placed evenly and about an inch up from the
edge of the table.
Next put down the spoons and carving-knives
and forks that are required for serving the
different dishes, and small cruets and water-
bottles at a convenient distance down the table.
It is no longer tho custom to put dinner-mats on
the table, but those made of asbestos may bo
placed under tho cloth when there is danger of
very hot dishes spoiling the table.
The glasses and bottles of water should be
placed on the table almost last - a tumbler at
tho right-hand side of each person and a wine-
glass for each kind of wine that is to be served.
The bread may either bo put round, a piece to
each person, or left in the bread-basket to bo
handed.
The sideboard should be arranged as carefully
as the table, and everything that is required for
after use placed upon it, such as a few extra
knives, forks, and spoons, extra bread, a basket
for receiving dirty knives and silver, and a
crumb brush and tray. See also that the chairs
arc put in their places before bringing in tho first
couree and announcing that the meal is ready.
A DInner-Party. - Sermce A la Russe. - Adinner-
pjurty ranks highest among entertainments, and
time and thought aro required if it is to bo mado
a succeas. There are prescribed rules for tho
sending out of tho invitation-s, the arranging
of the guests, and the manner of serving tho
dinner (see Etiquette). The most popular way
of serving a dinner at present is d ^ Russe.
By this mode all tho carving and serving is done
from the sido-tablo and none of the dishes are
placed on tho dining-table itself. It is certainly
a much more luxurious and pleasant method
than the old-fashioned stylo of having all tho
helping done by tho host and hostess, who by
this means are loft froo to attend to their guests
and enter more fully into tho conversation. It
means, however, a more elaborate service a" far
as waiting is concerned and one wliich cannot be
carried out whore there is only one table-maid.
On the other hand, a dinner of tliis kind is more
economical as regards food. \Vhon served from
tho side the quantity can bo more exactly
calculated and smaller joints can bo supplied,
whereas if tho dishes aro put on tho tablo they
must be handsome ones and there must be more
than sufficient to go round. \Vlien dinner tl la
Russe is found too troublescime, a compromise
between the two styles is very often adopted,
some of tho dishes, such as soup and joints, being
served from the tablo and entremets handed
round in the samo manner as the entrees.
A dirmer-party is looked upon by many
people as a very difficult form of entertainment,
and they will hesitate to give one for fear of its
nob being a success.
Certainly when one possesses a handsome
dinner service, good silver and glass and well-
trained servants it is a comparatively easy matter,
but these are conditions which cannot always
be fulfilled. But still this should not debar
the housewife of more modest means from the
pleasure of giving a little dinner-party to her
friends, as a simple dinner well planned is very
often more enjoyable than a very formal affair.
There is no occasion to have things elaborate
and costly, and if wo as a nation were a little
loss pretentious in our tastes, pleasant social
intercourse would be less rare. An invitation
to a dirmer is always considered a greater com-
pliment than one to an " At Homo." It is
an indication of a wish for greater intimacy,
for dinner-parties serve to place us in closer
touch with our friends than is the case with
almost any other social gathering.
If dinner a la Russe is decided on preparations
should be commenced in good time so that there
need be no cause for a hurry and bustle at the
last minute. If special dishes, glass and silver
are to be ussd for tho occasion tliey should be
looked out early in tho day and made clean and
ready for tho table.
Tho setting of tho table is very much tho same
as for tho more simple meal, only no carving-
cloths will bo required and no spoons and forks
for serving tho different dishes.
Some possessors of polished oak and mahogany
tables have adopted tho fashion of replacing the
large table-cloth with small mats of fine damask
and rich lace laid before each guest and below
the various dishes, but this is by no means a
prevailing fashion. Another custom is to have
small tables at which four or six persons can be
seated instead of one largo tablo, as this is con-
sidered a little more sociable and conducive of
conversation.
As regards decoration tho tendency is to have
it as light as possible, but to have tho damask
of tho whitest and finest that can be afforded.
(For Table Decoration, seo p. 253.)
Tho covers mtist not consist of too many
THE TABLE
241
knives and forks - ^it is always better to put
down others as the meal proceeds than to crowd
the table in any way - but they must always be
arranged so that the diner commences with
those on the outside. The necessary glasses
must be put at the right-hand side, with the
highest one placed farthest away to avoid its
being knocked over. Tlie number of glasses
vnll depend upon the wines to be served - three
(sherry, claret, and champagne) is a very usual
number, and small tumblers should be provided
for non-wine-drinkers. The serviettes should be
simply doubled and a small roll or some bread
sticks laid to each guest. When name cards are
used they must be clearly written and placed
beside each cover in such a way as to avoid all
confusion later. A menu card should be allowed
for each two or three people. The fruit may or
may not be placed on the table from the begin-
ning ; this is entirely a matter of taste, but small
bon-bon dishes containing salted almonds or
sweets are generally placed at intervals down
the table or arranged amongst the decorations.
A good deal will depend on the Ughting of the
room, and as the table will be the chief attraction
for the time being, the Ught ought to be centred
on that while the rest of the room may be in
shadow. If there is a large centre-light it
should have a shade corresponding in colour to
the flowers used or else forming a pleasing con-
trast. The ploasantest light is perhaps from
shaded candles or small electric lights placed at
intervals down the table. If candles are used
they should be lighted at least fifteen minutes
before dinner commences in order to ensure
steady burning.
The sideboard will also require careful pre-
paration. All wine decanters and extra glasses
should be placed well to the back, and the dessert
plates, finger bowls and doyleys, extra knives
and forks and the like laid neatly in the front.
When the fruit is not placed on the table that
also must find a place on the sideboard until
required. Champagne, hook, and other wines
that are not decanted should be placed under-
neath on the floor.
The carving -table is another important item
in the diner A la Russe. It must be furnished
with a good light, and everything in the way
of knives, forks, and spoons must be placed in
readiness for the carver dixring the different
courses of the dinner.
The temporatiire of the room must also be
thought of ; it must be well aired and still
warm and comfortable. It must be remem-
bered that the ladies will bo in light attire and
the room must not strike cliilly. Many a good
dinner has been spoilt by inattention to this
point. If windows have to be opened a little
way it is generally possible by a careful adjust-
ment of screens to prevent the draught from
beating down upon the persons seated.
Chairs must be put in position, and the first
course, hors d'oeuvres or soup, brought to the
room before the meal is announced.
A word might be said here about the drawing-
room fire ; it ought to be one of the maid's duties
to attend to this and to see that it is not allowed
to bum too low. A bright fire ought to await
the guests when they return from dinner.
WAITING AT TABLE
General Directions for Waiting at Dinner. -If a
dinner is to be a success the waiting must be above
reproach. Perhaps nothing tends so much to spoil
the good effect of a meal as inferior service ; then,
no matter how excellent the cooking, nor how
pretty and dainty the table, the result will not
be satisfactory. If there are long pauses between
the courses, if the waitress is clumsy and noisy in
her movements and inattentive to the needs of
the company, the finest dinner will be marred.
Even if the meal be but a simple homely one
with one maid in attendance a mistress should
make a point of having the service as perfect as
it is possible, as intelligent and proficient waiting
at once stamps the orderly and well-regulated
household.
The maid who waits at table should be neatly
dressed in a well-brushed black frock and spot-
less apron, collar and cuffs, and neat cap ; or a
clean and tidy print gown may take the place
of the stuff dress at an early dinner or luncheon
in small households when the maid has house-
work to do after the meal is served. Her hair
must be neatly done without any untidy ends
flying about, and she ought to pay particular
attention to her hands and nails to keep them
clean and in good order. If the lighting of fires
and cleaning of stoves is part of her work she
ought to be careful to wear gloves for the piorpose,
as it is almost impossible to remove black-lead
from the hands when once it has sunk into the
skin. She ought also to keep the skins of lemons
to rub on her hands, as this helps to remove any
stains.
A good waitress must be quick and light in her
movements and at the same time quiet and gentle.
Although it is of paramount importance to have
the courses served quickly one after the other
there must bo no appearance of hm-ry ; there
is a happy medium between long waits and rush-
ing people through, scarcely lea\'ing them time
to finish what is on their plates. The service
should be carried on as noiselessly as possible ;
there mu.st be no clatter of dishes nor rattling of
knives and forks. The ^waitress must have all
her wits about her and be ever on the alert to
see what is wanted, and ready to give her whole
attention to the work in hand. Forethought is
another very necessary quality - she ought to
consider beforehand what will be required for
the meal so that there need be no unnecessary
moving about or leaving the room when onoe
the meal is served.
Q
242
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
She must try to cultivate a pleasant and
gracious manner, being thoughtful for the com-
fort of those she is serving and ready to fore-
stall their weuits. She must not take notice
of any conversation that is going on, nor lot
a joke or funny story distract her thoughts.
Should any of tho company happen to bo a
little peculiar in manner and perhaps depart
from the orderly rules of beha\'iour, the waitress
must not appear to observe it, and if at any time
an accident should occur, such as the spilling of
a glass of wine or water, she must be ready to put
the matter right without showing any signs of
annoyance.
When the meal is ready, the cheurs in their
places and everytliing in order, the maid ought to
see that doors leading into all kitchen and back
premises are shut ; then when the first course
is placed upon the table the dinner may be
announced. Tliis may be done either by sound-
ing a gong, ringing a bell, or by going to the
drawing-room and saying in a clear voice,
" Dinner is served " or " Dinner is on the table.
Madam." The drawing-room door should then
be left open, and the maid, returning to the
dining-room, should take up her position there.
When the courses are served from the table,
as is frequently the case at the ordinary family
dinner, the waitress should stand on the left-
liand side of the one who serves and commence
by removing the cover if one is in use. At
present tho tendency is to abolish dish covers,
although in many houses, especially where old-
fashioned customs prevail, they are still to be
seen. A cover must be taken oS and tvirned
Tip quickly to prevent any drops of steam from
falling on the table-cloth.
A waitress should accustom herself to carry
two things at a time, one in each hand, as for
instance a platљ of soup in one hand and a plate
of crofltons in the other, a plate of tneat in the
right hand and a vegetable or sauco in the left,
or a plate of meat in each hand. Vegetable and
sauces are not placed upon the table when a maid
is in constant attendance ; they are kept on the
sideboard and handed - an attentive servant
will see at once when they are required. If the
maid leaves the room, she usually puts them
down on the table after she has passed them
round.
When a dish is handed round it must be
held steadily and firmly on a finger napkin and
at a convenient height, so that the person seated
may find no difficulty in helping himself. A
table-spoon or fork and spoon, according to what
is required, must bo placed in the dish in readiness.
Except at the formal dinner it is customary
also to ask if a little more meat or pudding, &c.,
is desired before the plate is removed.
Do not remove a soup tureen nor any dish
being served until every one at the table has
finished that particular course.
Soiled plates must be removed at once when
finished with ; they should never be allowed to
remain in front of the person who has used them.
They must be removed quietly, and care must
bo taken not to drop the knife or silver. A plate
may be taken in each hand and they should be
carried at once to the sideboard, the knives and
silver placed in the box or basket placed there
for the purpose, and the plates piled without
noise one on the top of the other or put into a
plate-carrier. A tray or basket must never be
carried roimd the table to receive the knives and
silver from the plates, although the reverse is
the case with the dishes from which moat, &c.,
has been served. A carving-knife and fork
should never be removed on the dish, as being
large and heavy they would be very liable to
fall, but a small tray for the purpose should be
brought to the table to receive them. The dishes
themselves must be removed carefully in order
that no grease or gravy be spilt.
Before sweets and dessert, remove on a small
tray all cruets and salt-cellars and any knives,
forks, spoons, and glasses that will not be re-
quired. Also take away the carving cloth if one
has been \ised. All crumbs should then be very
carefully removed from the left-hand side of
each person seated with a brush or crumb scoop
on to a small tray or silver waiter.
A waitress must never reach across a person
seated to put down or remove anything from the
table, but should walk quietly to the right or
left-hand side as required.
If any extra knives or silver are required they
should be put down on the table in thoir proper
place with the empty plate before the serving of
a course - they must never be offered on a tray.
If more bread is asked for small pieces should
be handed in a bread-basket or on a plate. If
any small condiment is wanted it should be
handed on a small tray or silver salver.
\Vhen dinner is served in the old-fashioned
way it is quite possible for one maid who is
quick and clever to wait upon six or even eighl
people, although of course the service can be
better performed when there are two in attend-
ance, or if some assistance can be given bj'
dishes being brought from the kitchen to tho
dining-room door and soiled plates carried away.
If two maids are in attendance, the head
servant passes round the fish and the second
follows with tho sauco and other accompani-
ments ; tho head passes the meat and the second
the vegetables, and so on. The principal servant
should never leave the room ; the younger maid
should inform the cook as soon as a course has
been served and prepare her to send up the next
at once. The younger maid should also do tho
carrying of the dishes to and from the room.
WTien a maid is single-handed and is obliged
to bo absent for a short time a member of the
family usually rings the bell at the end of each
course.
NoNnces in the art of waiting have sometimes
THE TABLE
243
a little difficulty in knowing at what side a dish
or plate, &c., should be handed or removed. To
these the following hints may be iiseful : -
(1) When there is no choice to be made, the
plate with its contents should be put down at
the right-hand side of the person seated.
(2) When there is a choice, as for instance
two different sweets or two different kinds of
fish, hand these at the left-hand side.
(3) When a dish has to be offered, as in the case
of a side dish or vegetable, carry it to the left-
hand side. It is a good rule to remember that
everything that is offered (except wine) must be
carried to the left-hand side.
(4) Soiled plates should be removed from the
right-hand side.
(5) Clean and empty plates are put down at
the right-hand side.
(6) Wine is offered from the right-hand side
as the glasses are naturally standing in that
position.
Precedence In Serving. - At a family dinner the
lady of the house should be served first unless
she is carving, then the daughters of the house
according to age, and the governess, if there is
one present, and lastly the master of the house
and the sons according to age.
If only one or two guests are present serve
them first, commencing with the ladies and the
principal guest. At a formal dinner-party,
where there are a number of guests, commence
with the lady on the right-hand side of the
host (the principal guest) and continue straight
round the table irrespective of sex. It is not
then the custom to serve the ladies before the
gentlemen. If there ire several maids in
attendance the two sides of the table may be
served simultaneously, commencing with the
lady seated next the host on each side. In the
case of small tables, the one where the principal
guests are seated should be served first.
Hired Coolis and Waitresses. - When the staff
of servants is not sufficiently experienced and a
large and important party is to be given it is
sometimes necessary to hire outside assistance.
Both cooks and waitresses can be hired at the
principal catering establishments ; or very often
they can be heard of through private recom-
mendation, wliich is even better. The usual
fee for such assistance is from 5s. an evening
for a waitress, and from 10s. 6d. a dinner for a
cook.
DRAWING UP A MENU
It requives some skill and experience to make
a good bill of fare ; any miscellaneous collection
of good dishes does not necessarily produce a
first-class menu.
There are several points to bear in mind when
arranging the dishes for a dinner : -
(1) Dishes thai are in season should be chosen.
Although many articles, such as vegetables.
fruit, and fish, can be had out of their proper
season, it must be remembered that an ex-
orbitant price will Kkely be asked for them, and
even at that they will in all probabiUty be
wanting in flavour.
(2) There must be variety in flavour, and the
dishes must follow each other in such a way as
will please the palate. An insipid dish must
not directly follow one that is very tasty, and
if two or three different entrees are served the
most savoxiry one should come last. Tlie same
flavouring must not be repeated in two conse-
cutive dishes.
(3) There must be variety in the method of
cooking and in the character of the different
dishes. It would not do for fried cutlets to
follow fried fish, nor for two braised dishes or
two grills to come together, and so on. A simple
dish should be followed by one a little more
elaborate or vice versd.
(4) There must be variety in colour and
decoration. The dishes must be pleasing to the
eye as well as to the palate, there should be no
sameness, and an element of refinement rather
than ostentation.
(5) The names of the dishes should be written
on the menu cards either in French or in EngUsh,
French is perhaps the more fashionable, but
this is entirely a question of choice. The names
of standard dishes should never be altered,
although more liberty may be taken with the
names of mede-up dishes.
(6) And, lastly, the powers of the cook and
the capabilities of the kitchen-range must be
borne in mind. If the cook is single-handed do
not attempt too much and do not give her a
number of dishes that cannot be finished off
until the last minute. Of course it will always
be possible to have a certain number of dishes
sent in from a caterer, but tliis will add con-
siderably to the expense, and in the end there is
notliing better than good cooking well done at
home. An important point is to give the cook
plenty of notice and explicit directions as to
what will be required.
The different courses of a complete menu will
comprise the following : - ^hors d'ceu\Tes, potage,
poisson, entries, relev6, sorbet, roti, entremets,
dessert, oaf6.
Hors d'(Euvres. - These consist of small
appetising morsels usually served cold, such
as oysters, oUves, anchovies, ca\nare, smoked
salmon, small salads, thin slices of sausage, &c.
They may either be served plain or made up in
some more elaborate style. Small plain biscuits
or thin brown bread and butter may accompany
the plain hors d'oeuvTcs.
Potage (Soup). - Either one or two soups may
be served. If only one it is preferable to have
it clear or of a very light character, especially
if there are a number of courses to follow. If
there are two soups one may bo thick and the
other clear.
2U
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Poisson (Fish). - This may either be plainly
boiled with a sauco or dressed in a more elaborate
fashion, or there may be one dish of each.
Entries. - These may come either before or
aft^T the rclev6 ; in fact, they can bo served
between any of the courses or omitted alto-
gether. They consist of various kinds of made
dishes and ought to be served very daintily. If
more than one is served one might be brown
and the other white, or one might be hot and the
other cold.
Relev6 (or Remove). - ^This consists of a solid
joint cither roasted, boiled, or braised, and a
garnish generally gives the characteristic name.
One vegetable besides potatoes is usually served
with the remove.
Sorbet. - A half - frozen water ice which is
served in cups immediately after the roast.
Roti. - Roast game or poultry visually served
with salad and chip potatoes.
Entremets. - Tliese may be divided into three
classes - ( 1 ) dressed vegetables (legumes) ; (2) sweet
entremets, both hot and cold ; (3) savouries,
which precede the dessert and are usually hot.
Dessert. - Fruits of variovis kinds and pctits
fours or other fancy biscuits.
Coffee. - This must be black - cream being
sers'ed separately.
In a small dinner some of these courses would
be omitted. The number of dishes depends
entirely upon the style of the dinner ; it may
consist of three or four or of eleven or twelve.
For instance, the hors d'oeu\Te3 and sorbet are
seldom given at a small dinner, and either the
relev6 or the rOti would be omitted. One
sweet might follow the last meat course to be
followed by a cheese dish or other savoury.
Ices may either be served in place of a cold
sweet, or they may form a separate course after
the savoury.
HINTS ON SERVING THE DIFFERENT
COURSES
Hors d'CEuvres. - These are frequently placed
on tho plato before dinner is announced -
especially in the case of oysters - or a choice of
several kinds is offered on a small tray.
Soup. - If the soup is served from the side and
tho dinner consists of numerous coiu^es, three-
quarters of a ladleful will bo sufficient to give
as a helping. If there are two different soups,
the waitress should take a plate of each and
offer a choice ; if only one she should take a
plate of soup in one hand and a plate of croutons
or pulled bread in tho other. Parmesan cheese
may also bo served with clear soup.
Fish. - The waitress should take a portion of
fish in the right hand and the sauce or other
accompanimei.t in the left. If there is a choice
she should take a portion of each kind and tho
accompaniments would be offered by a second
waitress.
Entries. - A hot or cold plate as required must
first bo put down to each person, and it must be
seen that they have the necessary knives and
forks. The entree must then be handed with a
spoon and fork in readiness in the dish. Entrees
are alwaj's handed, no matter how simple the
dinner.
Joints and Game. - Unless these have been
carved beforehand, the head waitress must bo
able to help them neatly from tho side and serve
them out in small portions, wliich must bo
handed round followed by their various accom-
paniments.
Salad. - A small salad plate should bo put to
the left of each guest before the salad is carried
round. The salad itself should be mixed at the
side or in the kitchen and handed in the bowl
with the salad spoon and fork in readiness. If
not partaken of the special plate should be
removed.
Sweets and other Entremets aro usually
handed in the same way as entries, a hot or
cold plate with necessary fork or spoon and fork
being put before each guest previously. In the
case of any sweet requiring cutting, such as
tart, tliis would be served out in portions from
the side.
Cheese. - It is not customary to serve plain
cheese at a formal dinner, but when it is wished
it is usually handed in a dish with different
divisions containing cheese in small pieces,
butter, and one or two different kinds of biscmts.
A small plate and knife would be put down to
each guest before the dish is handed.
Dessert. - The table should be cleared of
crumbs and all unnecessary glasses, &c., before
dessert is served. Unless the fx-uit has not been
on the table during the dinner it should now
be put down, and a dessert plate with a doyley
and finger bowl, along with a fruit knife and
fork, should be placed before each guest. If ices
are served in tliis course thoy should be served
first and the ice plates removed before tho fruit
is handed. Each kind of fruit must \y offered
in turn and then replaced on tho table.
It is not usual to offer a second helping of any
of the courses at a formal dinner. (For the
Ser^-ing of Wine, see p. 248.)
CARVING AND SERVING
Although at tho present time the formal
dinner is always served A la Russe, when all
carving and serving is done at tho side-table or
in tho kitchen, tho art of carving is still required
at family repasts.
Every lady ought to know how to carve ; in
fact, it would bo a good thing if even the young
people in the house took turns in perfornxing
this duty ; they would not then feel at a loss
when they came to have homes of their own or
when called upon to talce tho place of their
parents.
THE TABLE
245
The art of carving can only be learnt by
practice ; some instruction may no doubt be
given in a book, and a beginner may also learn
from watching an expert carver, but proficiency
can only come by actually doing the work
oneself.
To begin with there must be some knowledge
of the anatomy of the various joints, of the
relative position of bones, joints, muscles, and
fat, and also which are the choicest portions.
The most satisfactory way of learning this is
to take the chance when opportunity occurs of
studying the various pieces of meat off the
table. In the case of game or poultry, for
instance, the bird might be cut up in its raw
state for a fricassee or stew and a point made
of examining the different joints.
Carving does not require much physical
strength ; in fact, any undue effort or exhibition
of exertion only shows want of skill or bad
implements : the really clever carver is able to
cut up the most difficult joints with perfect ease.
One must first of all learn to carve neatly
without splasliing the gravy over the cloth or
pieces of meat beyond the dish, and then to cut
straight and uniform sUces so that the joint may
not be made to look untidy and jagged, but
inviting enough to tempt one to desire another
helping, or, if large enough to appear at another
moal, it may do so wearing a presentable appear-
ance. A number of cut surfaces only allow the
escape of juice and tend to make the joint
flavourless. Bad carving is always wasteful,
but the good carver will cut in such a way as to
make every portion inviting and full of flavoiir.
Both the butcher anl the cook can do much
to facilitate the work of the carver - in the case
of a loin of mutton or veal, for instance, neat
car\dng would be impossible unless the butcher
had performed his part of well jointing between
the ribs. The cook, too, should see that all
skewers, pieces of string, &c., are removed. The
size of the dish on which the joint is served is
also important. It must be large enough not
only to hold the joint when whole, but also to
allow room for several cut portions when they
are detached. Some people prefer to have a
separate dish for the cut portions, and these
can, if liked, be handed round. It is a mistake
to put a garnish on any meat which requires
carving at table, and the less gravy there is the
easier it will be for the one who is serving. An
extra supply can always be served separately
in a sauce-boat. The dish must always be
placed near enough the carver to allow of her
reaching it without any difficulty, and the
chair on which she is seated ought to be high
enough to allow her to have perfect control
over her work without the necessity of standing.
Some will find it easier to be raised on a firm
cusliion.
The sharpness of the knife is another very
important matter. It must always be sharpened
before dinner and never at the table, where the
performance is most trying to people's nerves.
It should have a handle that can be grasped
easily and a long thin blade of a size adapted to
the article to be served. A carving-knife should
never be used for anything but its one legitimate
purpose. There are different kinds of knives
sold for the purpose, as, for instance, a meat
carver, a slicer, a breakfast carver, a game knife,
and game scissors ; but if means are limited and
only one general carver can be afforded, choose
one made of the best steel one and a half inches
wide at its broadest part and from eight to ten
inches long.
The carving fork should have two long prongs
and a good guard to protect the fingers. The
hand should be hold over the handle of the fork
with the palm downwards and the first finger
extended. Insert the fork deep enough into the
meat to enable you to hold it firmly in position.
The knife also should generally be held firmly
and then applied lightly. There will be less
gravy squeezsed out if the pressure on the meat
is not too heavy. Both knife and fork must be
held in a natural manner and not grasped as if
they were weapons ; the cutting must be sharp
and clean, never jagged Uke a saw. All meat
should be cut across the grain with the exception
of saddle of mutton.
The carver mvist try to make a fair distribution
of the different cuts and bear in mind individual
likes and disHkes. As a rule, one small slice
is sufficient to serve to a lady and two small or
one large to a gentleman, but the quantity must
be regulated somewhat by the number of courses
in the dinner. If there is onlj' one joint on the
table and there are ladies and gentlemen present,
she should try to regulate the helpings so that
a smaller portion is served to the ladies. If
there is more than one dish to choose from
the portions should be made equal and rather
small in size.
Never ask a guest before begiiuiing to carve
to make a choice between two different dishes,
but help the dishes first and then make the
inqmry, otherwise they might feel that it was
being cut into solely for them.
The following notes on the carving of some of
the principal joints indicate the general method
adopted, but these rules need not be hard and
fast, and clever carvers very soon acquire their
own style.
BEEF
Sirloin of Beef. - ^This joint should be placed
with the back bono or tliickest end at the left-
hand side of the dish. Although it is \isual to
carve the undercut first, as tlais is one of the
primest cuts when hot, the joint is served with
this piece underneath and the carver raises it
and turns it over. The undercut should be cut
across in fairly thick slices C to D and a small
246
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
portion of fat served with each. The upper part
should be cut in long slices parallel with the ribs
A to B. The slices should be as thin as possible
Sirloin of Beef.
without being ragged, and the point of the knife
sliould be inserted to loosen the slices from the
bone.
Ribs of Beet. - This joint should be carved in
the same way as the upper part of the sirloin.
There is no undercut.
Round of Beef or Rolled Ribs. - A thin-bladed
and very sharp knife is required for tliis. First
cut rather a tliick slice ofi the ovitside to make
the top surface even and then continue cutting
thin slices right across the joint.
Ox Tongue. - As the centre is the choicest
portion, the tongue should be cut through tliree
or four inches from the top and thin slices cut
from both ends. A small piece of the fat which
lies near the root might be served with each
portion.
MUTTON AND LAMB
Leg of Mutton. - Place this joint on the dish
with the thickest part lying towards the outside
of the dish and the small end to the left. The
carving is not difficult and it is always done in
the same way. Insert the fork in the thickest
part and raise the joint slightly towards you.
Then cut several slices of medium thickness
through the thickest part and right down to the
bone B to A. Next slip the knife along underneath
Leg of MnttoD.
the slices and detach them from the rest. Some
prefer a piece from the upper end and others
one nearer the knuckle, as the moat is usually
better done towards the thin end, and one of the
tswtiest morsels lies quite close to the knuckle
or lower joint. A small piece of fat which lies
underneath the thick end should be served with
ea"h portion. When the thick side of the meat
is finished, slices should bo cut from the other
Bide in the same v/ay.
Loin of Mutton and Lamb. - This cut must be
thoroughly well jointed by the butcher or it
will be found most difficult to carve. It will
be well also to examine it before cooking, and,
if necessary, joint any part that has been
forgotten. Place the joint on the dish with
the thick part towards tho outside. Insert the
Forequarter of Lamb.
knife between the bones and cut right tlirough,
sepsirating all the cutlets in the same manner.
If there is a kidney a piece of it should be
served with each portion.
Saddle of Mutton should be placed on the
dish with the tail end to the left. Insert tho
fork firmly in tho middle and carve across the
ribs in long slices running parallel with the
backbone. Then slip the knife under and de-
tach the slices from the ribs. If too long they
may be cut across in two or three pieces. A
small piece of crisp fat from the lower part of
the ribs may be served with each portion.
Shoulder of Mutton. - This is one of the most
difficult joints to carve. Serve with the skin
side uppermost on the dish. Insert the fork in
the fleshy part and raise the joint slightly from
the dish. Take as many slices as possible from
Slioulder of Mutton,
the side A and B to C, cutting in each case right
through to the bono. The meat lying on each
side of the blado-bono on tho upper side of the
joint should next be cut, carv-ing the whole
length of tho meat from tho knuckle end.
Then turn tho joint and take slices off the
under-side. The under-part is the Juiciest and
most delicate part, and is frequently cut before
the upper portion.
Forequarter of Lamb. - ^This is another some-
what troublesome joint to carve. The first
point to attend to is to raise the shoulder from
the ribs and breast. Insert the fork in the
most fleshy part of the shoulder and with the
knife cut round as 8ho\Tn by dotted Une C.
Raise up the shoulder on the fork and cut it
THE TABLE
247
away without removing too much of the meat
from underneath. The shoulder portion should
be carved in the same manner as a shoulder of
mutton, but unless the whole joint is required
for one meal it is usual to have tlus put aside on
Loin of Pork.
a separate dish and served cold. Cut the under
portion across, separating the ribs from the
breast. Divide the ribs one from the other, A to
B, and cut the breast in slices. A smaJl portion
of each may be served to each person.
VEAL
Fillet of Veal. - This should be carved in thin
even sUces in the same way as a round of beef.
If there is stuffing a small quantity should be
served with each portion.
Loin of Veal. - Carve in the same way as loin
of mutton unless the cutlets are very large, when
they may be cut in slices like ribs of beef.
Knuckle of Veal. - Carve in the same way as
a leg of mutton.
PORK
Leg of Pork. - Carve in the same way as a
leg of mutton, serving a piece of the crisp fat
and a small quantity of stuffing, if there is any,
to each person.
Loin of Pork. - Carve in slices from A to B,
separating the cutlets between the bones in the
same way as the loin of mutton.
Sucking Pig. - This is generally sent to table
cut in half down the centre and with the head
cut off with one piece laid at each side. First
cut off the four legs from the carcase and then
separate the ribs into small cutlets. It is all
good, and it is just a matter of choice which part
is served.
Ham. - If the ham is sent to table whole, the
thickest part should be placed towards the outer
side of the dish. Take a very sharp knife and
make an incision through the thickest part and
right down to the bone. Continue cutting in
very tliin slices towards both ends of the ham
and serve a fair amount of fat with each portion.
A more economical way of carving a ham is
to comtiience at the knuckle end and cut off
thin shces working towards the thicker part.
\Vhen the bone begins to look unsightly it can
be sawn off.
GAME AND POULTRY
Fowl (Roast or Boiled). - The fowl should be
placed on the dish with the logs to the loft-hand
side. Insert the fork deeply across the breast-
bone so that it takes a firm hold. First remove
the wing on the side nearest you by cutting
through the skin and shaving o2 a thin slice of
the breast towards the wing joint. Then with
the point of the knife sever the joint from the
carcase. Next remove the leg on the same side
by making a downward cut between the thigh
and the body. Bend the leg over and sever
the joint with the point of the knife. Now cut
the meat from the breast in thin slices and the
whole length of the bird B to A. The fork shoxild
never be moved from its original position, and
the necessary carving should be finished before
beginning to serve.
If the family is small and the whole fowl is
not required the second side may be left, and if
the bare piece of carcase is cut away and the
half fowl served bone downwards on a dish with
a nice garnish of parsley or salad, it will make
quite a nice-looking dish. If, however, the
whole fowl is reqviired, remove the wish-bone
from the nock in front of the breast-bone by
inserting the point of the knife at the end.
Then turn the bird round and carve the second
side in exactly the same way as the first, and
Boast FowL
finally turn the carcase over and remove the
oyster, a small dark portion which lies near the
centre of the side bones. The wing and the
breast are considered the finest parts.
Turkey. - This is carved in very much the
same way as a fowl, only if it is large and the
whole is not required it is usual to commence
with the breast and to cut slices from that
before remo^dng the legs and wings. \\Tien the
legs are cut off they should be di\'ided in two at
the joint and then out in slices, as they make
too large portions by themselves. If the bird
is stuffed a small quantity of the force-meat
should be served with each portion.
Goose. - Serve the bird with the neck at the
left-hand side of the dish. As the breast is the
best part it is xisual to carve this first and not
to use the legs and wings the first day unless
they are required. Insert the fork in the centre
over the ridge of the breast -bono and out the
breast in thin parallel slices, commencing at the
248
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
wing and continuing until the breast-bone is
reached. Tlien slip the knife under and detach
them from the bono. Remove the legs and
wings in the same waj' as from a fowl. If thero
is sago and onion farce inquire of each one if
a small helping is agreeable, or hand it round
separately.
Roast Duck. - Car\-e in the same way as
roast goose.
Pigeon. - The usual plan to adopt is to cut
the bird right tlirough the middle into two equal
parts. If these are too large they may be cut
through again into quarters.
Partridge and Grouse should be carved in the
same way as pigeon, a piece of toast being
served with each portion.
Small birds, such as snipe, landrail, ortolan,
are usually served whole or may be cut in two
for ladies.
FISH
A silver or plated fish knife and fork or fish
carvers ought to be used for serving fish. A steel
knife should never be used or the flavour of the
fish \viU bo spoiled. Care should be taken not
to break the flakes more than is necessary and
to serve as little bone as possible.
Cod or Salmon. - The fish should be placed on
the dish with the tluck part of the back towards
the further side. Carve in fairly thick slices
right through to the centre bone, then slip the
knife underneath and detach them. ^Vhen the
top part is finished remove the bone and cut
through tho lower portion in the same manner.
Turbot and Brill are both served in the same
way. First cut through the thickest part of the
fish right doNvn to the back bone. Commence
at the head end and continue to the tail. Then
cut slices across from the centre towards the
sides of the fish and detach them from the bone.
Part of the fins and a Uttle of the gelatinous skin
should be served with each portion.
Sole. - Cut through the whole length of the
thick part and then raise the fillet from each
side. Then remove the bono and separate tho
other side into two fillets.
Plaice. - If largo carve in the same way as a
turbot ; if small according to directions given
for sole.
Small fish aro either served whole or cut in
two pieces.
SERVING OF WINES
In former times it was considered tho correct
thing to serve a different kind of wine with each
course, and the choice was very complicated,
but nowadays the number has been much re-
duced, and it is quite usual to servo only one
or two kinds throughout the whole meal.
When wine is offered it must be good of its
kind; poor cooking is bad enough, but cheap
wine is even worse, being at times almost poison-
ous. People with limited means should not give
champagne or sparkling hock, which in a cheap
form are very deleterious, but let them rather
be content in offering some other wine less ex-
pensive and yet good of its kind, such as clarst,
sherry, or some light wliite wine.
When one is in doubt as to what wine to buy
or what brand to get, the best plan is to consult
a reliable wine-dealer, as it is impossible for an
amateur to know all the different brands and
their distinctive qualities.
For a simple informal dinner it is very custo-
mary to give a good claret or burgundy and
a good sherry or some Ught white wine. For
a formal dinner champagne or hock is usually
given either alone or with other wines.
If a variety of wines is given the following is
the usual order in which they are served : -
Sherry with soup, champagne with the first
entr6e and throughout the meal ; sherry and
claret at dessert, and liqueurs with the ices and
after coffee. Sometimes a wlute RMne wine,
chablis, or sauterne is offered with fish or with
oysters when they commence the meal.
At luncheon one wine is usually sufficient,
such as claret, burgundy, or hock. Cliampagne
is rarely given. Wliisky and soda may be offered
if gentlemen are present.
At supper sherry, claret and hock, or cham-
pagne may be offered, or one wine only.
Claret should always be decanted when vised
for dessert - at other times it is a question of
taste. Both claret and burgundy should be
warmed to the temperature of the room. The
best way to do tliis is to allow them to stand in
a warm dining-room some houi's before they are
required ; or if wanted in a hurry to stand the
bottle in a pail of warm water for a short time.
These wines will not keep long after the bottle
has boon opened.
Sherry and port should always be decanted,
and this should be done carefully and some time
before the wine is required, so as to allow any
sediment to sink to the foot of the decanter.
Port and Madeira are little used, espccir.Uy at
large dinners, although they may be served
with dessert or with a cheese course at the end
of a dinner. A fine Madeira sometimes takes
the place of sherry at the soup course.
Champagne is generally served from the
bottle. A serviette should be wxapped round
the bottle, or held beneath the neck after tho
wine has boon poured out to prevent the drops
falling on the cloth. It ought to be very cold,
and in hot weather it is customary to stand the
bottles in ice for two hours before using. Metal
pails are sold for tho purpose, and these are filled
with a mixture of broken ice and salt. A dry
cliampagne is the favourite, the sweet brands
being little used, except sometimes for ladies.
Hock and Moselle are not decanted ; they should
bo drunk at a temperature of about 40№ Fahr.
THE TABLE
249
Decanters of wine are nob put on the table at
a formal dinner until dessert is served, when
claret and sherry can be placed in front of the
host.
To open champagne or other sparkling wines,
first cut the wire with a pair of chamipagne
nippers and then cut the strings. Hold the
bottle in a slanting position and remove the cork
slowly and carefully. The bottle must be held
on the slant until the wine has been poured
out. Wlien drawing ordinary bottles care must
be taken not to break the cork ; the corkscrew
should be screwed into the middle of the cork
as straight as possible. A lever corkscrew is
best.
Wine should always be poured out at the
right-hand side of the person seated, and poured
out very carefully. When handing champagne
at a dinner it is usual to ask in the first instance
if it is desired, but when handing it later the
glass should be refilled without any comment.
Liqueurs are always served in small Uqueur
glasses on a silver tray or liqueur stand and
handed at the left-hand side.
jMineral waters and lemonade should be at
hand at all meals, as so many do not take ■wine.
Barley water too is a favourite and fasluonable
drink, especially among ladies, and is often
served at luncheon.
Brandy or wliisky and soda may be in readi-
ness at informal meals where men are present.
These spirits should always be decanted.
When stout or ale is taken the bottle should
be opened at the sideboard and then poured out
carefully and slowly, holding the bottle at an
angle so that the glass may be filled with ale and
not froth. It should then be handed on a silver
waiter. If it is draught ale it should be poured
out briskly and then slowly from a jug in order
to give it a head.
BREAKFAST
The service of the breakfast-table does not
alter much, and whether the meal be simple or
elaborate the mode of lajang the table remains
very much the same. Although there are no
hard-and-fast rules as in the case of the formal
dinner, as much daintiness should be observed
in the setting of the breakfast-table.
In large houses this meal is usually set in the
morning-room and not in the dining-room and
at an hour to suit the habits of the household.
In all cases it must be served early enough to
permit of those who have special work to perform
to take their meal quietly and without hurry.
This is especially necessary in the case of cliil-
dren having to go off to school. The seeds of
indigestion have often been sewn even in cliild-
hood by having to swallow this meal in a hurry.
Both table and sideboard must be covered with
a cloth, sometimes a plainer one than that used
for dinner ; any decoration most be of the very
simplest - a pretty plant or fern, or a few flowers
in vases will be all that are required.
The usual plan is to place the tea or coffee
or both at one end of the table in front of the
hostess along with the necessary accompaniments
of sugar and milk, the required number of cups
and saucers and a jug or kettle of hot water.
Everything must be within easy reach for serv-
ing, and hot articles should be placed on silver
or china stands.
At the other end would be placed any dishes
that were being served and the necessary plates.
If there is a choice of dishes cold dishes such
as ham, tongue, or cold pie are usually placed
on the sideboard and served from there. WTien
boiled eggs are served they are put on an egg-
stand or in a folded ser\-iette or lined basket to
keep them warm. Butter and jam or marmalade
should also find a place on the breakfast-table,
the former neatly rolled or made up in pats
in the butter dishes, and the latter tidily served
in jam dishes or fancy pots.
Different kinds of bread woiild also be served
according to taste, such as rolls and scones
(white or brown), toast, oatcakes, cut white and
brown bread, &c. Tliese must be served on
bread plates with doyleys vmderneath. If a
loaf of bread is reqiiired as well it is usually
placed on the bread platter on the sideboard
and cut as required.
Fruit either stewed or raw is also becoming a
recognised addition to the breakfast-table, the
kind varying according to the season of the year.
Wlien cereal foods, such as porridge, grape-
nuts, quaker oats, bread and milk, &c., are
wanted, they must be daintily served - some of
the pretty bowls or fire-proof dishes now sold
are very suitable for the purpose.
Tlie other appointments of the table will
depend on the number of persons and the special
dishes being served. A small plate and knife
and serviette must be put to each place and
the necessary knives, forks, and spoons for the
different dishes. Pro^^ision must also be made for
any dish that is to be served, not forgetting such
things as cruets, butter knives, jam spoons, &c.
A table-heater is a most useful article to have
for the breakfast - table, especially in houses
The "Heatorboil
where the meal is a prolonged one. By this
means dishes can be kept weirm, and if the
heater has a sliding top, as in the " Heatorboil,"
as shown in illustration, it can be utilised for
boiling eggs or a Uttle water as well.
250
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
As a rule, there is no waiting done at break-
fast, so that it is all the more important that
the table be set carefully and that nothing is
forgotten.
Variety of Food. - Perhaps there is no meal
at which variety is more necessary than at
breakfast, but m many middle-class houses it
is made a most monotonous and uninteresting
repast. Tlus may be due partly to the early
hour at wliich the meal is served, but it is also
the result of want of thought or resourcefulness
on the part of the cook or housewife. Elaborate
dishes are not required ; in fact, they would be
out of place ; what is wanted is simple tasty
dishes nicely served - always remembering that
what pleases the eye helps also to please the
palate. It is well as far as possible to choose
for breakfast such dishes as can either be pre-
pared the night before or will take little time to
get ready in the morning.
Besides such well-known favourites as ham,
eggs, bacon, fried fish, fried sausages, &c., the
dishes deteuled below, recipes for which will be
found in the Guide to Cookery (pp. 116 to 235),
might be quoted : -
Cod's roe, fish cakes, fish curry, fish cutlets,
steamed fish pudding, scalloped fish, smoked
haddock balls, herring au gratin, pickled herring,
fish pies (various), tripe with tomatoes, grilled
kidneys, sheep's tongues, brawn, jellied veal,
calf's liver, calves' brains, calves' feet, galantine
of veal, cold meat shape, meat scallops, glared
beef roll, chicken and spaghetti, potted fish and
meat, rissoles and croquettes, cold pie, various
eg-g flishes and omelets, stewed mushrooms, nut
rissoles.
If more suggestions as to what to give are
required, the housewife would do well to supply
herself with the little volume entitled " Break-
fast Dishes," published by T. C. and E. C. Jack.
Tea and Coffee. - It is very important that the
tea and coffee for breakfast should be well made
and served very hot, and the few hints given
below for the use of the novice in the art of tea
and coffee-making may not be out of place.
Tea. - Half fill the teapot with boiling water,
let it stand a minute or two until thoroughly
hot, then empty it. Put in the requisite quantity
of tea (the old rule of a level teaspoon for each
person and one over is a good one, but for a
number a smaller proportion may be allowed),
and pour on, gently enough, boiling water to half
fill the teapot. Take the teapot to the kettle,
and never the kettle to the teapot. Cover with
a cosy or let it stand in a warm place to infuse
for three minutes, then fill up the teapot and
pour out the tea. Tea is never good if allowed
to stand too long, and the use of a tea-cosy is
to bo deprecated if it is employed to keep tea
hot for a long time until it becomes black and
bitter. If the tea has to be kept hot for any
length of time, it should be poured off the leaves
into another teapot, or some teapots are fitted
with an inner case which contains the leaves,
and which can be removed when the tea has
infused sufficiently.
When sugar and milk or cream are used, they
should be put into the teacup before the toa.
The addition of milk makes the tea more whole-
some, that of sugar less so.
Coffee. - ^To get good coffee is often one of the
difficulties of the housekeeper, and yet it need
not be so. The making of it is very simple. It
just requires some nicety and care.
Coffee to be good should be freshly roasted
and freshly ground. When tliis cannot be done
at home, it should be bought in very small
quantities and kept in a tin box with a tight-
fitting lid.
If pure coffee is wanted chicory must not bo
used. Chicory imparts a slight bitterness to the
coffee and darkens the colour, and some people
prefer coffee with it. The usual proportions are
two ounces chicory to one pound coffee. The
water, as for tea, must be freshly boiled. It is
also important to have the coffee-pot very clean.
Tliere are many different kinds of cafetiores,
and some of them are more compUcated than
others, but for ordinary purposes the simple
tin or china cafetiere with percolator answers
very well and requires no spirit-lamp.
First fill the cafetiere with boiling water, let
it stand until thoroughly heated, and pour the
water away. Then put in the reqviired amount
of coffee - the quantity will vary according to
the taste of the consumer ; but a very good
proportion is one table-spoonf\il coffee to each
half-pint of boiling water. Pour the boiling
water gently and gradually over the coffee, and
let it filter slowly through. Keep the pot stand-
ing in a warm place, and serve as hot as possible.
Coffee to be good must be hot. If there is no
percolator attached to the coffee-pot, it is a good
plan to have an iron ring made to fit the top of
the coffee-pot inside. To this ring sew a muslin
bag, and fit the bag into the pot. Pour some
boiling water through it, and when it is well
warmed pour the water away. Put the coffee
into the bag and proceed as before.
Coffee can also be made in a jug. Heat the
jug thoroughly with boiling water and pour the
water away. Put the coffee into the jug, and
stand it on the top of the stove for a few minutes
until the coffee is hot. Then pour the proper
quantity of boiling water over it and stir with
a spoon. Cover the jug with a lid or thickly
folded cloth, and let it stand by the side of the
stove for fifteen minutes. Have the jug or pot
in which the coffee has to be served made very
hot. Stretch a piece of muslin over it and
strain the coffee through.
When milk is served with coffee it should be
scalded but not quite boiled. The proportions
are equal quantities of strong coffee and milk,
or two-thirds milk to one-third of coffee. A
little cream may be added.
THE TABLE
251
LUNCHEONS
There are several different kinds of luncheons,
and the manner of serving them is more varied
and less formal than that of the late dinner.
First there is the simple meal of two or three
courses, which serves as the dinner of the chil-
dren of the family and also that of the servants.
Then there is the still simpler meal partaken
of by those who look forward to a more sub-
stantial meal in the evening and consisting of
some egg or vegetable dish, or perhaps some
made-up meat dish, cold meat, or the remains
of dinner of the night before, along with a little
fruit, cheese, and perhaps a cup of coffee.
And, lastly, there is the rather more formal
luncheon, very similar to the late dinner, but
with fewer courses and simpler ceremony.
The mid-day dinner has already been described
under " Home Dinners," and requires no further
comment.
The luncheon proper is a more or less informal
meal according to the style of the house and
customs of the family. As a rule all the dishes
are served from the table, the waitress only
passing the plates and handing any vegetable.
The plates would also be changed by the maid
in attendance, but any other service is generally
performed by members of the family themselves,
unless there is a good staff of servants.
A more formal luncheon would be served
d la Russe, but this is only suited to large
establishments, as one or two maids would
require to be in constant attendance. The
decorations should be very simple and menu
and name cards aro not necessary. Long
luncheons consisting of many courses are not
liked, and the dishes should be lighter than for
a dinner.
When soup is on the menu it is frequently
served in cups instead of soup plates, and small
racks of toast should be suppUed as well as
bread.
Entrees of different kinds frequently take the
place of more substantial joints which require
carving, and the sweets should be simple in
character, or some novelty in the way of pastry
or French gdteaux might be offered. Dessert
may be omitted if it makes the service too long,
but a few little dishes of bon-bons or salted
almonds may be placed on the table as at dinner.
The table is not cleared at dessert, and fruit
plates are used without finger glasses. Black
coffee is usually handed at the table after the
last course has been served.
AFTERNOON TEA
Tills can scarcely be called a meal, but rather
a light refreshment taken in the afternoon to
break the fast between luncheon and late
dinner. It is usuallj' served in the drawing-
room between four and five o'clock, and although
unceremoniotis in character, it is one of the most
social and popular events of the day, and the
taste and refinement of the hostess are readily
recognised in the manner in which it is served.
Everything should be as dainty and attractive
as possible.
The tea itself should be of the best that can
be afforded and must be well made (see p. 250).
The question as to what special tea to use is
entirely a matter of taste - China tea is much
appreciated by many people, and it is light and
refreshing, but it is an acquired taste and not
liked by every one, so that when tea is to be
offered to a mixed company whose individual
tastes are not known, it is safer to use a good
blended tea wdth no pronounced flavour.
The beauty and deUcacy of the china is also
important, and it is usual to have small thin
cups and saucers of some dainty design with
teaspoons of a suitable size. All the silver must
be very bright. Plates are not as a rule required,
unless cream cakes or other similar dainties are
being offered - when used they m\ist be qviite
small in size.
The hostess should try to study novelty and
variety in the cakes or bread offered, and nothing
of a large or clumsy nature must be seen.
Plain bread, either brown or white, should be
buttered and sliced very thinly and cut in any
shape desired, or, for a change, it may be made
up in little rolls. Scones and tea-cakes are best
hot butter jd and served in a muffin dish or in a
folded doyley. Different kinds of small sand-
wiches might also be served (see p. 187), and
there must always be a nice choice of cakes.
Petits-fours and other fancy biscuits of various
sorts are also favourites, as they are dry and not
hkely to soil the gloves.
All the bread plates should be covered with
pretty doyleys or lace-edged papers ; the latter
is better for placing under any cake that has
to be cut. The tea should be prepared in the
pantry or kitchen. If the tray is not of silver
cover it with a dainty white tray-cloth, then
arrange the cups and saucers, sugar basin, slopr
basin and cream jug on it, and have the plates
of bread and butter and cake in readiness. \Vhen
all is ready and a good kettle of water boiling,
prepare the table in the drawing-room - tliis
may or may not be covered with a cloth accord-
ing to its kind, but if one is used it must be as
dainty as possible - there is nothing prettier
than the all-white cloth, embroidered or trimmed
with lace, but if colour is introduced it must tone
with the colour of the teacups. Small serviettes
to match are sometimes used, but this is not a
universal custom.
The table is generally low and should be
placed beside the hostess. Tlie plates of cake
may be placed on a cake-stand or on another
small table close at hand. Infuse the tea and
fill up the hot-water jug or kettle last of all
and carry all to the drawing-room at the hour
252
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
appointed. Tea-cosies are no longer £asliionable,
although many people still prefer to use them.
AVhcn guests are expected the table is some-
times prepared beforeliand, leaving only the tea
and water to be carried in when it
is required. If more visitors should
arrive after the tea has been served,
the waitress must see that there is a
sufiBcient number of cups and bring
more if necessary without requiring
to be told. Fresh tea should also
be made and more bread cut if
needed.
Tea is usually poured out by the
hostess or by a grown-up daughter,
and the cups are passed by any
Cake-Stand. g6'it^"'™en visitors or by the young
people of the house. Servants do
not as a rule remain in the room, but are only
ning for when anything extra is required.
AFTERNOON "AT HOMES"
When a number of guests are expected the
tea itself is sometimes served in a back drawing-
room. A good-sized table spread with a pretty
cloth should be placed in one corner, and upon
it should be arranged the tea things with plates
of bread and butter cakes and other dainties.
The tea in this case should be poured out by
one of the daughters of the house or by a lady
friend, leaving the hostess free to receive and
entertEiin her guests in the drawing-room
proper.
At very large " At Homes " tea is frequently
served in the dining-room, but this is a more
formal affair. Visitors are shown into the
room on arrival and waited on by servants
before they enter the drawing-room. Gentle-
men visitors often assist in handing round the
refreshments. The table should bo made into a
sort of buffet, and, if space is limited, it should
be moved to one end of the room. It must
be covered with a fine damask cloth and the
serving should be done from the back. Both
tea and coffee are frequently served on these
occasions and rows of cups and saucers should be
in readiness. The jugs of cream and milk and
bowls of sugar might be placed on the side of
the table next the guests, allowing them to help
themselves. There should be an abundant
supply of all kinds of dainties, and one or two
largo cakes on high stands would help to give
an ornamental appearance. The table n^ust be
prettily decorated with a few flowers or plants
and everything made as attractive as possible.
In summer it is very u'fual to offer fruit,
strawberries especially, and these are best served
in small quantities on little plates. Ices too
are sometimes served.
If there is sufficient space in the dining-room
there might be two or three little tables and some
chairs dotted about the room for the convenience
of those who do not care to take their refresh-
ment standing.
SUPPER
The Family Supper. - In houses where early
dinner is the rule, supper of a more or less
substantial kind is the concluding meal of the
day. Tliis is generally quite an informal meal,
and the arrangement of it depends entirely upon
individual requirements. As a rule, all the
dishes are placed on the table and there is little
or no waiting. The table is laid in very much
the same way as for luncheon, and as the articles
required depend entirely upon the kind of food
provided, it is impossible to give any definite
rules. If coffee is served, it is either placed at
one end of the table and served by the hostess
as at breakfast, or it is served by one of tho
daughters of the house.
The Formal Supper. - This may be served in
several ways, and the arrangement chosen
depends very much upon the wishes of the hos-
tess. Many people consider it inhospitable not
to provide a substantial meal to which their
guests can sit down and be waited on by the
servants of the house. In tliis case one large
or several small tables are laid and the service
is very much the same as for Diner it la
Russe.
As a rule the dishes are cold, although hot
soup and perhaps one hot entree are frequently
served. Such dishes as the following would all
be suitable for the bill of fare : -
Cold meats of different kinds, such as game,
poultry, ham, tongue, galantine and meat pies,
dishes vrith aspic and mayonnaise, and various
salads - jellies, creams, and all kinds of fancy
sweets and plenty of fruit in season.
Buflet Supper. - When there are a number of
guests and space is limited, a *' stand up " supper
is very often given. Tho different dishes are
placed on the table, the ladies sit round the
room, and the gentlemen wait on them and help
themselves. Waitresses may also be in attend-
ance. Only such dishes as can be easily eaten
must be served, such as sandwiches, patties,
aspic and mayonnaise dishes, and perhaps cold
meats neatly sliced, followed by jelhes, creams,
various other sweets, and perhaps ices. Cooling
drinks and light wines should also be offered.
This is a less expensive mode of serving the
meal and one most frequently adopted by the
housevWfe of moderate means.
Another way is to arrange a sort of buffet and
to serve refreshments at any time throughout
the evening without having a fixed hour for the
meal. It will be the duty of the host and
hostess to let tliis be understood by their guests
and to see that every one is taken into supper
in tho course of the evening.
When only cold and light refreshments are
given at an evening party it is very usual to offer
THE TABLE
253
a cup of hot soup or coSee to tho guests just
before they leave.
TABLE DECORATIONS
The floral decoration of the table is now a
universal custom. Large sums of money are
often spent upon the flowers and vases for a
smart dinner-party, and hostesses will vie with
each other as to whose table will present the
most novel and effective appearance. But
unless means are unlimited it is impossible to
follow every passing fashion, and it is a good
thing for most of us that floral decoration does
not depend upon costly vases and expensive
flowers ; in fact, in most cases the simpler the
arrangement the more charming the result.
Even although we are not all the happy
possessors of a garden, flowers are brought into
our towns in such lavish quantities nowadays,
not to speak of those from our own market-
gardens, that they have been brought within
the means of the poorest. It is seldom one
cannot get a bunch of some sort of bloom for
a few coppers or even the modest penny, and
when we consider the joy and comfort they
bring we are amply compensated for the outlay.
The delight a few flowers can give is unlimited.
\^1iat a difference between a table that is
tastefully decorated with a few flowers and one
on which a huge cniet-stand takes the central
position. A table without a plant or flower is a
desolate affair. There is no occasion to have a
great display; more taste can often be shown
in the arrangement of a few blooms than in
an exuberant show. Flowers should not be
crowded ; they should have room to stand out
individually. The Japanese, who are so artistic,
consider one choice bloom quite sufficient to put
in a vase. The main thing is to make the table
pretty and attractive, and at the same time to
think of something novel.
The foliage sprays shoidd be inserted first,
and the flowers then placed in carefully, so
as to face whatever direction is required. If
some flowers have a tendency to twist about,
this can be remedied by pushing a piece of thin
wire up the inside of the stem and allowing it
to project half an inch. This projection can
usually bo inserted into a piece of foliage or stem,
and the flower thiis retained in the desired
position.
Needless to say, the flowers must be fresh and
the water shoiild be changed every day.
Tlie arrangement of flowers is very much a
matter of skill and taste and the following
paragraphs are only suggestive. The tendency
at present is to keep the floral decoration low,
tall-growing flowers, when they are used, being
put in slender glasses or arranged in such a
way that they do not obstruct the \aew. From
the conversational point of view this is a great
advantage, as it is never pleasant to be forced to
look around ornaments in order to talk to some
one on the opposite side of the table. Harmony
of colour with the surroundings and a sense of
proportion as to height, siz;e, and shape of vases
- a lightness of touch in the grouping together,
with a quick eye for possibilities in the blending
of shades, are all necessary to ensure success.
The quantity must depend upon the size of
the table ; a large table will stand some display
of abundance, but now that small tables are
fashionable, even for private houses, a very light
form of decoration is all that is necessary.
Choice and Colour of the Flowers. - Flowers
are now to be had in such variety and at every
season of the year that their choice is very
much a matter of individual taste, limited only
by the resources at one's command. Flowers
typical of the season are as a rule more pleasing
than exotics and forced productiorxS. Those
with a strong scent should be avoided, especially
if they are to be used in large quantities and in
a heated room. When selecting a little thought
must be given to the general tone of decoration.
The colour of the room must be taken into con-
sideration, unless the walls are cream or of some
pale shade which will not clash with any of the
brighter colours. Pleasing effects of colour are
the first consideration. A mixture of colours
rarely looks well ; one or at most two colours
with green is quite sufficient, although there
may of course be graduations in shade of the
prevailing colour.
Colour schemes are now the fashion, the
flowers, candle shades, dinner ware, bon-bons,
&c., being of corresponding hues. Some
hostesses even aim at ha\'ing the flowers, &c.,
to match the gown they are going to wear.
Foliage and Plants. - Plenty of foliage should
be used, that of the flower itself wherever
possible, and the teaching of nature followed if
perfection is to be attedned. The leaves them-
selves should not lie in the water, but should be
stripped off the stalk, as they only crowd the vase
and prevent the flowers getting sufficient water.
Asparagvis, springeri, maidenhair, and smilax
are among the choicest and best -known foliage
plants, but there are many people, especially in
the country, who may find these too costly for
ordinary use or difficult to prociu-o ; to those
it may be suggested that there are many traiUng
plants to be had for little or nothing, which could
be employed in a similar way, such as the small-
leaved gold or silver iv-y, creeping jenny, canary
creeper, periwinkle, and traveller's joy. To keep
them from drooping the ends can be inserted in
button -holders filled with wet sand and liidden
among the leaves. Trailing plants can have
silver wire inserted among the stems if it is
wished to keep them in a special position. The
tops of asparagus can often take the place of the
more expensive fern ; wliile more use might be
made of carrot -leaves and those of the wild
geranium, the latter sometimes being found in
254
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
delightful shades of a red-brown colour. Con-
vohnilus trails, with tliick clusters of scarlet
berries lastmg for montlis after the leaves have
withered, are a splendid addition to our winter
decorations.
Vases. - Almost any kind of vase can be \isod
as long as it suits the style of flower and docs
not clash in colour. As a rule, wliito and green
crj'stal ones are the most adaptable. Tall-
stalked flowers, such as clirysanthomums, lilies,
lilac, daffodils, &c., look best in liigh glass,
whilst short -stemmed flowers, such as violets,
primroses, snowdrops, forget-me-nots, &c., should
be arranged in low vases. Roses look especially
well grouped in a bowl or single blooms set in
slender glasses. Most people pick up quaint
vases at different times, especially on a holiday,
when they can often be found both pretty and
cheap. It is astonishing, too, what can be done
in case of necessity ; an old meat or fruit tin
packed with wet silver sand and hidden by
moss can be made to do duty inside a basket
quite as effectively £is a proper zinc Uning, while
small baskets with the Uttle china or glass
drinking vessels used for birds or even a penny
m\istard tin are equally useful ; similarly, all
sorts of glass jars for potted pastes come in
handy, so do cups without handles, especially
the Japanese blue ones, also small china ash
trays and saucers ; indeed, cny one at all resovirco-
ful need never be at a loss. If high glasses are
used they should be slender and so arranged
that they leave the line of vision clear. For
comers all kinds of specimen glasses, upright or
globular, cups, saucers, or pots filled with ferns,
miniature trees or shrubs may be employed ;
a variation of the latter can be obtained by
planting in tiny tubs (doll's washing-tubs painted
dark brown servo the purpose), pips of oranges,
lemons, grape fruit, apples, &c., which make
excellent little trees ; while rambles in woods
and lanes will reward a search by giving us tiny
oak, holly, and other trees to adorn our tables :
these are especially desirable now that Japanese
dwarf trees are the fashion.
Wild Flowers. - Those who live in the country
often overlook or despise the decorative possi-
bilities of the flowers around them ; yet what
can be more lovely than a large vase of golden
buttercups loosely arranged. It is true the
petals soon drop, but then how easy to renew
them. Then, again, what a delightful effect is
produced by a bowl filled with half-open buds
of the deep pink wild-rose with pieces of sweet-
briar among it. We do not half appreciate the
artistic possibilities of the wild anemone with its
delicate green leaf, or of the snowdrop, crab-
applo blossom, wild hyacinth, the meadow
crane's-bill with its charming lavender shade,
meadow-sweet, poppies, corn-flower, and a host of
others too numerous to mention, along with
grasses and leaves of all kinds.
Table Decorations in Spring. - For spring there
is nothing more easy to grow than bulbs of all
kinds ; they can be grown in bowls of cocoa-
nut fibre in sitting-rooms ; the lovely blooms
are in this way always available for decoration
and they last long. Daffodils, pheasant's eye,
narcissus, tulips, and hyacinths of all colours
following one another give a glorious variety with
the added interest of being grown by oneself.
A pretty picture is made of a low dark -green
bowl filled %vith crocuses ranging from white
through the shades of mauve to dark purple, or
massed with the golden kind the bowl is parti-
cularly striking. Lily of the valley can also bo
grown in the same manner ; but in growing
bulbs it should always be borne in mind that
a hot room is fatal for good results. As the
season advances we get a bewildering choice of
flowers, among which violets take a first place
for their sweetness ; a favourite combination is
that of dark violets ^^-ith the lavender-coloured
parma-violets. Pansies and violas associate
well with almost any light green foliage, but
nothing is so suitable as their own foliage when
that can be procured bright and fresh and of
good colour. Violets, however, do not make
a good show at night. A well-grown bowl of
lily of the valley with smaller ones of violets
looks charming. Violets can also be used with
the lavender shades of iris. Another sweet
spring decoration is that of lilac in blending
shades, but the stalks of this flower and other
woody kinds must be split up to allow them to
get plenty of water, otherwise they soon droop.
A large bowl of crimson peonies makes a very
handsome centre-piece, and, being so showy, does
not require more than ferns round it.
What an important niche is filled in our
decorations by the little salmon pink anemone
which appears in the late spring. Sold in small
bundles of unopened flowers, it looks insignifi-
cant to those who do not know its value, but if
kept for a few days a lovely show is made by
the gradual unfolding of the buds to their full
size, its colour alone making it valuable, eoming
as it does at a time when most of our flowers are
white or yellow ; as the blooms last well, its
purchase is always a safe investment. The
larger kind, though more showy, do not blend so
well with other colours.
Table Decorations in Summer. - Summer
brings us the rose, tlie queen of flowers, in all its
many forms and shades, but as a queen it must
reign alone, no other flower being permissible
near it. You may havo all one colour, or various
shades as from pink to crimson, but do not
mix all colours together ; it is a fatal mistake.
What is more perfect than an old silver or china
bowl filled with rich crimson roses ; or a few
long-stalked pink ones in branched glass or other
vases, small corner bowls holding each a rose
with perfect foliage, the stems kept in place
by leaden clips covered -with moss ? Rambler
roses are more difficult to deal with, but if the
THE TABLE
255
dusters of bloom are not too heavy, and you get
the right kind of vase to suit them, they make
a perfect picture. All the larger liUes make a
splendid show in tall vases, but many people find
the scent too powerful in a room. Carnations
rank next the rose, combining as they do both
beauty of colotir and fragrance. A simple but
effective decoration can be made by arranging
short trails of the dwarf nasturtium in a slender
but broad -rimmed vase and allowing the ends to
fall over, a few leaves and half-opening flowers
being arranged in small bowls or saucers.
Sweet peas are both beautiful and plenti-
ful ; also particularly useful in schemes of
colour with their many shades of pink and
mauve, but theirs is a fragile loveUness, for
should the weather be hot they droop almost
as soon as picked ; they look best in slender
vases loosely arranged. The dainty colourings
of gladioli are very charming, though the form is
somewhat stiff ; the defect can in this and many
other cases be lightened by sprays of gypsophila.
Pink or mauve ivy geraniums go well with some
shades of gladioli as a combination. A delight-
ful table decoration for a hot day is formed
by large marguerites, blue Canterbury bells, and
wild oats ; the sense of coolness imparted by
those in a white-papered room mxist be felt to
be understood Harebells and dog daisies give
the same effect.
The soft yet brilliant shades of the Shirley
poppies make another welcome addition to our
list of summer favourites ; arranged in a tall
tapering glass with sprays of the feathery wliite
statice or gypsophila they look charmingly grace-
ful, the various shad 3 of white, yellow and
orange or reds and pinks, blending beautifully
together. Many people think they drop quickly,
but they should be chosen as much in bud as
possible, as every bud opens and then they will
be found to last nearly a week.
Charming combinations can be worked in
cream and lavender, in white and dark violet,
in yellow and cream, and in mauve and white.
Large fine blooms of fancy pansies are always
admired on a table, and when well arranged
no combination can be more attractive.
Table Decorations in Autumn and Winter. - As
the autumn comes along we get the asters and
dahlias in all their varied colourings ; the single
dahlias are the best for table ornamentation,
though a bowl of the crimson or yellow double
ones makes a rich feast of colour. The loose
petalled asters are the most effective, and pink
and white or mauve and white combine well
together. The Michaelmas daisies have been
much improved of recent years, and many
varieties can now be obtained. There are two
kinds of white Michaelmas daisies which are
invaluable for putting among flowers ; the
blooms are very small and feathery. Now we
get the lovely tones of the xnrginian creeper,
&o charming for adorning our tables, but it is
necessary to wire it, as the leaves so soon drop
off ; a few trails should hang from vases as well
as be used in draping.
In the country many richly -shaded leaves o£
all sorts, also berries, can now be gathered, the
leaves pressed and put aside for winter use.
Hips and haws are well known, as are also the
rowan berries. Trails of virginian creeper, a
vase of bronze, yellow chrysanthemums, and
smaller vases (of copper, if possible) filled with
yellow marguerites make a charming pictiire,
especially if the svirroundings are of a browTi
tone.
For those who live in the country there is the
possibility of making use of the rich hues of the
crab-apple. A few discreetly selected small
branches well laden with fruit, the stems clipped
together with the soft leaden supports so cheap
to buy, placed in a large green pot as if growing,
the pot being half filled with moss, would make
a novel decoration, while tiny specimen baskets,
each containing one or two of the brilhantly
coloured Quarantine apples, and the basket
handles tied with a bow of green ribbon, might
be placed round. This decoration would be
suitable for a harvest home.
Winter gives us the ever -popular chrysan-
themum, now grown in such quantities that it
is brought within the reach of the most modest
purse. Chrysanthemiims always look best in
tail jars or vases and require plenty of water ;
in fact, th6y should be left in a pail of water up
to their heads every night. These flowers bring
us to Christmas when holly reigns supreme,
helped out by Christmas roses and forced
scarlet tulips, the fragile-looking white of the
Christmas roses making a delicate contrast to
the prickly and brilliant holly.
Decorations for Special Occasions. - A few
suggestions may be given for special occa-
sions.
For Christmas the centre vase might be filled
with large white or yellow chrysanthemums ;
round the base should be placed the small-
leaved golden variegated holly, a well-berried
piece of daxk holly put at intervals ; at the four
corners horseshoes made of the leaves of the
variegated sort, " A Merry Xmas," or similar
motto formed of the berries running round or
across as preferred, one corner of the horseshoe
being tied with a bow of crimson ribbon. Fancy
pots or baskets filled with ferns and scarlet
tulips and tied with green ribbon could be used,
or bowls of Clu-istmas roses could take their
place. The menu cards might have a robin or
other seasonable de\dce painted on them.
For Primrose Day. - ^Fill tliree round or long
vessels viith wet silver sand, put in the flowers
one by one, separate the vessels with pots of
hght maidenhair, put the whole on a tin or zinc
tray and bank up with moss. Smilas should be
arranged round and draped along the sides,
with small pots of maidenhair at the corners
256
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
tied with bows of red ribbon, and a primrose
button-hole put to each gtiest.
For a Wedding. - The place of honour being
occupied by the wedding cake, pink and white
roses, carnations, sweet peas, lily of the valley,
and white heather are the most usual decorations.
A pretty touch can bo given by having tiny
horseshoes for each guest ; these can be made of
lily of the valley or forgot-me-nots, with a small
bunch of white heather at the side tied with pink
or wliito ribbon.
SERVING OF FRUIT
Fresh fruit should find a place on every
table ; it is always wholesome and beautiful,
and much taste can be shown in the manner
in which it is arranged. \Vlien fruit is served
at a dinner-party it may either be placed on
the table at the beginning and remain through-
out the meal, or it may be put down when
the guests are ready to partake of it. The
first method is to be recommended as feir as
the decorative appearance of the table is con-
cerned, although the fruit itself suffers from
being exposed to the heat of the room for so
long. The softer fonts especially stiffer from
the hot atmosphere and the odours of savoury
dishes. Perhaps the best plan to adopt is to
put down the harder and drier fruits, such as
nuts, oranges, and apples, and to reserve the
daintier and finer ones to be brought in fresh
and cool when they are required, either in their
natural state or en salade.
^^^aen arranging fruit it must bo carefully
looked over and any that is blemished put aside.
Oranges and apples, pears and other fruit of the
kind should be wiped with a damp cloth and
poUshed. Grapes should be lightly brushed
with a soft brush, peaches and plums very
Ughtly rubbed, and all berries carefully picked
and washed if necessary.
Fruit may bo arranged in a variety of ways.
Each dish may contain either a different kind of
fruit, or else a miscellaneous assortment artisti-
cally grouped. If the table is large, a handsome
centre-piece of mixed fruits sometimes looks
well. Many pretty designs for fruit dishes are
now sold, and these may either match the fruit
plates or form a pleasing contrast. Rustic baskets
of different shapes can also be made to look very
pretty and artistic. Green leaves should always
cover the dishes on which the fruit is served. For
the larger fruits vine-leaves are the most suitable,
while currant -leaves can be used for the smaller
kinds. In winter when fresh leaves are scarce
gold and silver paper leaves can often be em-
ployed with good effect, especially for dried
fruits, dates, figs, Carlsbad pltrnis, crystallised
fruits, and such -like.
One important point to remember is that
when arranging a dish of mixed fruits the
lighter kinds must alwaj^s be put on the top.
Apart from this, there are no fixed rules for the
arrangement of fruit, but an eye for colour and
artistic taste are as necessary hero as in floral
decorations.
The following is a specimen of a Dirmer Menu, written in both French and English : -
MENU
Melon Glac6
Consomme aux Quenelles
Turlx)t. Sauce aux Crevettes
Cremes de Boeul aux Champignons
Oigot d'Agneau- Sauce Menthe
Sorbet au Rhum
Faisans IWtis. Salade d'Orange
Nid de ifarrons h. la Crfeme
Gel6e au Vln Rouge
Pallleg au Parmesan
Glacis anx Fraises
Dessert
MENU
Iced Melon
Clear Soup with Quenelles
Turbot with Shrimp Sauce
Beef Creams with Mushrooms
Lamb with Mint Sauce
Rum Sorbet
Boast Pheasants with Orange Salad
Nest of Chestnuts with Cream
Port Wine Jelly
Cheese Straws
Strawberry Ices
Dessert.
HOUSEHOLD LINEN
A GOOD housewife will tako great care of her household linen, and it will be her pleasure to see
that it is kept in beautiful order.
In beginning housekeeping the quantity and quality of the linen that is bought must depend
upon individual taste and means, the size of the household to be provided for, and the room there
is for keeping it.
As a rule, it is a wise plan to buy just what is necessary to start with and to add to the stock
as time goes on and the necessity for more arises. The space in modern houses is often somewhat
limited, and if surplus linen has to be stored away in boxes in a cellar, it will probably be attacked
by mildew and become unfit for use. Whatever is bought should be good of its kind, not necessarily
of the finest quality, as this would be unsuitable in many cases, and the price paid will naturally
depend upon the means at disposal ; but an inferior quality should never be bought. Even a little
extra outlay at the beginning in order to obtain first-rate material will be amply repaid in the
ultimate satisfaction afforded. Cheap linen may look very well when new, when it has dressing in
it and a certain amount of gloss, but after the first washing it wiU be found limp and thin and
without any body.
The material for household linen can always be bought by the yard and made up at home,
but now that good ready-made articles can be had at such moderate prices, there is really
nothing to be gained by taking this extra trouble. If hand work is stiU preferred to machine
work, it can always be ordered or asked for specially. Of course, it is important to go to a first-
class shop where the goods can be trusted. In this chapter useful information is given in regard to
standard qualities and prices.
BED LINEN
Sheets. - Material. - Until within recent years
linen was always considered the correct material
for sheeting, and it would have been thought
a breach of etiquette to provide a guest with
anytliing but the finest and whitest of hnen
sheets. But now, owing to the many improve-
ments made in its manufacture, cotton has to
a large extent taken the place of linen. Linen
is, however, still preferred by many people ;
it is so fine and smooth to the touch, and
delightfully cool in summer. One must of
course be prepared to pay a good price for
linen ; but it will be found very durable, and
it keeps its colovu? bettor than cotton. Good
linen is fine and even in vexture. It should
be bought fairly heavy, otherwise it will curl up
and soon look shabby and crushed.
It is not wise to let deUcate and rheumatic
people sleep in linen sheets, as linen carries off
the heat of the body and is very apt to give cold.
Cotton, on the other hand, is much warmer than
linen, and for this reason it is often hked better.
Besides, it is possible now to buy it of such fine
quality and with such a nice soft finish, that
even the most fastidious can scarcely object to
it. The difference in price, too, is a consideration
with people of moderate meanb.
Cotton sheets can be had in two kinds, twilled
and plain. At the present time the plain calico
seems to be the favourite and the kind most
generally asked for, but this of course is a
matter of taste, and the price of both is very
much the same.
Both Unen and cotton sheets can be had with
either plain or hem-stitched hems at the ends ;
the latter add very little, if anything, to the
price, and they certainly add to the dainty
appearance of the bed.
It is always well to have the top hem a little
wider than the one at the bottom, or to have
some other distinction, in order to prevent the
foot of the sheet being placed near the face.
For servants' use a well-woven twilled calico
is best. The unbleached material used to bo
bought for the pm-pose, but it is now seldom
asked for, and the wliito certainly looks nicer.
A very usual plan when providing sheets for
a household is to buy linen for the best beds,
fine cotton for ordinary use, and a hea^^er twill
for the servants. As some people object to
linen sheets, it is well to keep one or two pairs of
fine cotton in reserve for the use of guests.
Size and Price. - Sheets must always be
bought of a right size for the bed for which they
are intended. They must be long enough and
wide enough to permit of their being tucked in
257 E
258
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
all round the mattress. An extra length, about
three-quarters of a yard, must bo allowed if the
under-sheet has to cover the bolster as well. In
breadth a sheet should at least bo 72 inches wide
for a single bed, and 90 inches for a double
bed, and from 2 to 3i yards long.
As regards quality taste varies so much that
indi\idual preference and the means at command
can alone decide the choice. The following
prices may, however, be a guide to those who
have little knowledge of what ought to be paid.
Only thoroughly recommended prices are quoted.
Cotton Hem-stitched Sheets.
Single-bed size - 8s. 6d. to 15s 6d. per pair.
Double-bed size - 12s. to 23s. 6d. per pair.
The difference in price depends upon the
fineness of the material, and also upon the
length.
Hem-stitched Linen Sheets (Irish).
Single-bed sheets- 18s. 9d., 23s. 6d. to £3, 3s.
per pair.
Double-bed sheets- 253. 9d., 30s. to £4, 4s.
per pair.
For servants' use a very good twilled calico
sheet with plain hem can be bought at 6s. 6d. per
pair, and a rather better quality at 8s. per pair.
The more expensive sheets have very often a
pretty embroidered piece for turning over at
the top.
The Jaeger or Sanitary Sheet. - This is a special
kind of sheet made of pure wool, and of a thin
texture that can easily be washed. The Jaeger
sheets are used principally for children and
deUcate people, and especially for those troubled
with rheumatism. The price varies from 193. 6d.
to 30s. for a single-bed sheet, and from 33s. 6d.
to 60s. for a double-bed sheet. They can be
liad either of a fine white cashmere or in the
natural wool or camel-hair shade. Pillow-cases
can also bo obtained in the same material.
Sheet-Shams. - These are fancy articles, and
not by any means a necessity for any one start-
ing housekeeping. They are strips of linen
hem-stitched, and generally very prettily em-
broidered, which are slipped in under the bed-
clothes and turned back over the cover to
resemble a sheet, and they give to a bed a
dainty appearance during the day.
Mattress Covers. - Every mattress should be
covered with a cotton slip to keep it clean, and
this need only be removed once or twice a year
to be washed. Unbleached calico or thin holland
is usually sold for the purpose.
Pillow and Bolster-Slips. - Material. - These
can bo either of cotton or of linen, to match
the sheets with which they are used, although
linen pillow-slips are very often used with cotton
sheets. Lovers of ease always prefer linen
pillow-slips to cotton ones, as they are cooler
for the head and smoother and softer to lie on.
Any one troubled with headaches or sleepless-
ness should always use tliem, as they check the
flow of blood to the head, and almost act as a
cold-water bandage.
Pillow-slips can bo bought ready made in
different sizes. They look very pretty hem-
stitched, and they can also be had with dainty
frills ; but it must be borne in mind that these
latter are not so durable, and that the washing of
them will cost more than that of the plainer kinds.
They can be had either fitted with tapes or with
buttons and button-holes. Upon the whole,
the latter method of fastening is to be preferred,
as it is more conducive to neatness.
The newest method of fastening is with a
double set of button-holes and small bone studs,
which can easily be slipped out when the pillow-
sUps are sent to the washing. It is a good plan
to sew these studs on to a length of tape - ^the
proper distance apart - and this will prevent
them from getting lost.
Bolster-slips are not always used, the under-
sheet being rolled round the bolster and mad"
to act as a cover. However, some people
prefer the separate cover, and it is certainly the
more comfortable arrangement, especially for
indifferent sleepers, as the cushions can be
moved about at will and arranged to suit one's
special comfort.
Bolster-slips can also be bought ready made,
but it is almost better to have them prepared to
order, and to suit the special shape of bolster.
They look better when they are drawn in at the
ends and not button-holed, or sometimes they
are made with a shaped piece at each end, which
gives the bolster a more handsome appearance.
The newest shape of bolster-slip is made
about half a yard longer than the bolster on
each side. The ends, which are left open, are
cither hem-stitched or embroidered, and the
extra length is allowed to hang over the sides
of the bed.
Both bolsters and pillows should also have an
under-cover of calico to preserve the tick, and
also to prevent the stripes of the latter showing
tlorough the outer case. An old pillow-slip or
bolster-slip will answer the purpose very well,
and they should be removed once or twice a
year to be washed. These inner slips are usually
sown on, but if fastened with tapes or buttons, the
open end should be put into the outer case first,
to prevent both fastenings coming together.
Size and Price. - Pillow-sHps must be bought
to fit the pillows for which they are intended,
and as these vary somewhat in size, it is im-
portant to take careful measurements. If too
tight the softness of the pillow is destroyed,
and on the other hand if they are too large they
look clumsy.
Very good hem-stitched pillow-cases can be
bought for 28. 6d. - fastened neatly at the ends
with hand-made button-holes and well finished -
and upwards to 83. each, and even more. With
HOUSEHOLD LINEN
259
frills they will cost from 3s. 6d. upwards. Plain
white calico slips can be had from 8d. to 2s. each,
and with frills from 2s. 6d. upwards.
PlUow-Shams. - These axe dainty ornamental
covers, which are laid over the pillows dui'ing
the day and removed at night. They are
generally made of fine Unen or muslin, em-
broidered prettily with initials and some other
design, and finished round the edges with lace
or cambric frills. Sometimes a large bow of
ribbon will ornament the centre. They help
to make a bed look pretty, and when carefully
folded at night they will keep clean for quite a
long time.
Quantity Required. - Allowances. - The careful
housewife should see that the hnen cupboard is
always kept well stocked with sufficient linen to
meet all emergencies. If each bed has its own
special linen, then three pairs of sheets, six pillow-
slips, and two or three bolster-slips will be a
very moderate supply for each, in order that the
linen cupboard may never be left without a
pair of sheets to fall back upon. If, however,
the hnen is used generally, and the cost of
washing has to be considered, six pairs of sheets,
twelve pillow-cases, and half-a-dozen bolster-
slips might do service for three beds. This,
however, is a minimum supply, and if frequent
change is indulged in, double the number would
not be too many.
Ideas vary much as to how often bed-linen
ought to be changed, and to have a liberal
allowance is certainly a luxury. When the
expense and trouble of washing has not to be
thought of, sheets may be changed as often as
three times a week, and pillow-sUps every day ;
but this amount is beyond the means of the
ordinary household, both as regards the supply
of linen required and the somewhat heavy wash-
ing bill entailed. Once a week is considered a
very good allowance, while once a fortnight
should be the minimum of change. To keep
sheets in use longer than this is not healthy.
Some people prefer to change one sheet each
week, always putting the top sheet down, while
others prefer to have all clean at once. One
pillow-slip a week at least should be allowed for
each person, and a bolster -slip if used should be
changed once a fortnight.
If the supply of bed-linen is limited, house-
keepers should arrange that all the bedt; are not
changed the same week, but in rotation. If
there is a number of beds, it will be as weU to
make a note in a small book of the dates when
each have been changed.
Servants too should be allowed one clean
sheet a week, or a pair a fortnight, and one clean
pillow-slip each week.
BED-COVERS OR COUNTERPANES
Dainty bed-covers add not a little to the
attractive appearance of a. bedroom, and they
should always be kept as fresh and clean as
possible. A httle care expended in selecting
new bed-covers will be amply rewarded in the
additional wear to be had out of a well-selected
article, which as a rule will combine the
quaUties of both decorativeness and durability.
Bed-covers are to be had in various styles, but
the all-white coverlet is always agood investment,
as it washes easily and looks well on any bed.
The tendency now is to have them of a very
light make, and some of the newest styles are in
white cotton or hnen embroidered and hem-
stitched, or a pretty white embroidered muslin.
The finer and open-work ones are usually
mounted on a sateen slip of a colour to match
the bedroom, and these shps are fastened to the
cover by means of small buttons and button-holes,
which are easily undone when the upper part
requires washing.
A very pretty embroidered cotton quilt can
be bought for 12s. 6d. for a small bed, and 18s 6d.
for a double-bed size and upwards. An em-
broidered and hem-stitched hnen cover will cost
from 23s. 6d. for a small, and 31s. 6d. for a
double-bed size, while several pounds may be
paid for one with a very elaborate design of
drawn- thread work and lace.
A white embroidered mushn cover, which
is very dainty and particularly suitable for
summer use, can be obtained for 16s. 6d. small
size, and 18s. 9d. large size, and upwards. An
under-sMp of sateen for these covers costs 10s. 6d.
or 12s. 6d., according to size, and any colour can
be chosen.
Coloured bed-spreads are also greatly used,
made of printed cotton or taffeta. To obtain
one of a good quality, it will be necessary to
pay from 12s. 9d. upwards. They shoiild be
chosen to suit the curtains, or the prevaihng
colour in the room for wliich they are intended.
For winter use, and especially if fires are burned
in the bedroom, these coloured qviilts are per-
haps more practical than the all wliite, and
especially where washing is a consideration.
Stronger counterpanes in colour suitable for
servants' use are sold for 4s. or 5s., and it is
quite possible too to get these with a nice
design and of a pretty shade. There is no
occasion to have something ugly because it is
cheaper than the finer quahties, and a maid is
more likely to take a pride in keeping her room
in order if some encouragement is given to her
to make it pretty.
Although somewhat out of date, the thick
whitљ Marcella and honej'comb quilts will always
be useful for hard wear, as they stand frequent
washing without any harm, and with care will
last for years.
The bed-spread or cover miist be large enough
to cover the bed. and hang well over the sides.
If no valance is used, a little extra width will
be reqmred.
One bed-cover at lesist will be required for
260
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
each bed, and two or three extra ones to allow
for washing. It is a good plan to have a change
of quilts in summer and winter.
TOILET COVERS AND DUCHESSE SETS
No toilet table is complete without its toilet
cover and doyleys, and the bedroom would
indeed have a neglected appearance where their
use was dispensed with. A daintily dressed toilet-
table adds materially to the cleanly and cheerful
aspect of a room, and besides nothing is more
calculated to show off a good piece of furniture
than this time-honoured essential to the toilet-
table equipment, wliilst on the other hand the
appearance of shabby fiu-niture can be con-
siderably improved upon by the use of clean
and dainty toilet sets. The variety in these is
almost endless, and choice must depend upon
individual taste.
The all-wliite covers, such as the Marcella and
Honeycomb, can be bought ready made in
various sizes frOm Is. and Is. 9d. each, and
upwards. They will stand any amount of hard
wear and frequent wasliing ; in fact, the material
will scarcely wear out. ^Vhen the fringes be-
come shabby, they should be cut off, and the
ends of the cover hemmed and trimmed with a
little edging if desired. The same material is
also to be had by the yard, known as " Toileting."
The required length can then be bought, neatly
hemmed at the ends and trimmed with crochet
edging or other suitable embroidery.
Of course, from an artistic point of view, the
above covers are not pretty ; they are strong
and clean -looking, but there is nothing dis-
tinctive about them. The daintiest covers are
those made to suit the room. A pretty cretonne
edged with lace and insertion, or a dainty
muslin with a frill of the same material, and
coloured sateen underneath, or again, a nicely
embroidered linen or some fancy material
worked in colours, can all be made to look very
nice and give a homelike appearance to the
room.
Instead of the all-over toilet cover, a Duchesse
set of matfl is frequently used, and this permits
of some of the wood of the toilet-table being
seen. Needless to say, these should only be
used where the table or chest has a good surface.
If the wood is shabby, it is much better to have
it entirely covered.
Duchesse sots can also bo had in strong white
Marcella material, and will cost from Is. per set
and upwards. The prettiest ones, however, are
in fine linen or damask and lace, or drawn-thread
V ork. The price of these will vary according to
the amount of work in them and the quality of
the lace. A simple hem-stitched set can be
procured for Is. 6d., while linen and lace will cost
from 2s. 6d. and upwards to almost any price.
But these are things which are frequently made
at home, as small odds and ends of linen, muslin.
lace, &c., can be so easily utilised for the pur-
pose.
For the changing of toilet covers no regular
rule can be laid down ; if the table is standing
near the open window and in a dusty situation,
the cover may look dirty at the end of a week,
whereas in a clean place it may retain its fresh
appearance for a month and even longer - there-
fore the only rule to go by is to change when
necessary.
Two toilet covers or sets will be required for
each room, unless they are used generally for
the different bedrooms, when one each and two
or throe over to allow for washing will be
sufficient.
TOWELS
Bedroom Towels. - General Remarks and
Material. - For ordinary use the linen huckaback
are the most suitable, while Hnen, damask or
diaper will serve the purpose when a fine towel
is required. The latter make very nice face
towels, as they are so fine and soft. Towels can
be bought ready made, either hemmetl, hem-
stitched, or vAth. fringes. Those with fringes are
scarcely to be recommended, as they so soon
become shabby and untidy -looking. If they are
chosen, it is wise to overcast the ends before
putting the towels in use, as this will prevent any
fraying out, unless this has already been done,
which is sometimes the case with the more
expensive towels. When the fringes become
shabby they should be cut off, and the ends of the
towels neatly hemmed.
Towelling can also be bought by the yard,
fifteen yaxds being of fair allowance for twelve
towels. But there is really Uttle to be gained
by doing this, as the ready-made towels have
generally some kind of border, and the others
would not have the same finished appearance.
The ends of towels are sometimes made orna-
mental by having a border worked across them,
very often in Russian cross-stitch, in blue and
white, red and white, or simply all wiiito ; or
a monogram or initials may be worked in one
corner, or any other effective design. Iho ends,
too, are sometimes trimmed with hand-made
lace - that of a strong make, such as a crochet
or knitted edging, being the most appropriate.
These little additions are considered by some
people to greatly improve the appearance of a
towel, and to make a pretty finish for those
destined for the guest-room ; but for practical
purposes the perfectly plain towel is to be
preferred.
Turkish towels are generally used for the bath.
They are made of cotton, with a raised fluffy sur-
face, and are very soft in texture. They can be
had either all white or a mixture of red and
white. Those of a large size are called bath
sheets. When a very rough towel is wanted
to produce friction after a bath, the brown linen
towelling should be asked for.
HOUSEHOLD LINEN
261
Unbleached huckaback towels of a stouter
make should be bought for servants' use, and
these can generally be had with a coloured border,
, which would serve as a distinguishing mark where
there are several maids. If something cheaper
is desired, then the cotton honeycomb towels
should be bought, and these too are made with
some colour introduced.
Size and Price. - Very good pure linen hucka-
back towels, grass bleached and of a soft finish,
can be bought for 14s. per dozen, and with a
damask border in a heavier make for 21s. per
dozen.
Damask and diaper towels will cost from 15s.
to 35s. per dozen.
Turkish bath towels (Christie's) are also sold
at from 15s. to 35s. per dozen, according to size
and quality, wMle a bath sheet can be obtained
for 3s. 9d., 5s., 6s. 6d. or 8s. 6d.
The rough crown Unen towels are 2s. each and
upwards.
The unbleached huckaback for servants' use
will be about 8s. 6d. or 12s. per dozen, while the
white honeycomb are only 6d. each and upwards.
A very suitable bath towel is also to be had for
lOd. or Is.
When buying towels it is well to compare the
sizes, as often by paying a shilling or two more
per dozen a few extra inches in length can be
obtained, and as the larger towel will not cost
more in the washing, this is a point worth
considering.
An ordinary towel should be at least 40 inches
long and 24 inches wide ; anything less than this
is very inadequate for the purpose, while an
inch or two larger would be a distinct advantage.
Bath towels especially are better if of a larger
size, while for a bath sheet double the above
proportions would not be too much.
Quantity Required - Allowances. - At least half-
a-dozen bedroom towels and three bath towels
should be allowed for each person. This will
allow of two face towels and one bath towel being
given out each week, the same number would
be at the washing, and the other three woiild
be in reserve. This is of course a very limited
supply ; as many people like to have their towels
changed more than once a week, the supply
would then have to be increased accordingly.
Bath sheets may be had in addition to the
above ; these need not be changed so frequently
as the bath towels.
The usual allowance for servants is one face
towel a week and a bath towel once a fortnight.
Three face towels and two bath towels would be
enough to allow for each maid.
BLANKETS
Choice. - In choosing blankets for the house-
hold it is advisable to select those of a first-rate
and reliable quality. Good blankets will not
only last longer than inlerior ones, but they
are warmer and lighter in make. Touch is the
best gtiide to choice ; they should have a soft and
silky feeUng, with a nice woolly surface.
In England the Witney blankets have the
finest finish, but the Yorkshire and Welsh are
very good for hard wear.
The Scotch blankets are also famous, and one
special feature of their manufactiire is that they
are generally all wool. They have a raised surface,
although not so much so as a Witney blanket.
A blanket should be large enough to tuck in
at both sides and at the bottom of the bed, but
must not be so wide that it touches the floor.
Where economy has to be considered, one pair
might be chosen smaller, if the upper one is large
enough to tuck in and keep all in position.
Before buying blankets it is very important
to know the exact size of the beds for which they
are required.
Quantity Required and Price. - Two pairs of
upper blankets and one under-blanket is a very
fair allowance for each bed. When an eider-
down qmlt is used one upper blanket may be
sufficient, but this is very much a question of
individual needs, and it is always well to have
one or two pairs of blankets in reserve.
A pair of very good single-bed blankets,
guaranteed all pvu-e wool, can be bought for 16s.
per pair, while as much as 45s. can be paid for
the same size in the finest and softest wool, with
a pretty silk binding in sky-blue, rose-pink, or
cream. For a double-bed blanket the price
will range from 21s. to 75s. per pair. They can
be suppUed either all white or with blue or red
lines, button-holed in the same colour.
For servants' use union blankets are generally
bought. These are rather harder to the touch,
as they are not all wool, but are woven with
a certain amount of cotton. They are not so
light in weight as an all-wool blanket, but are
very suitable for hard wear. The price of these
blankets will range from 8s. to 12s. 6d. per pair.
The under-blanket is generally a single blanket
which can be bought new for 4s. and upwards,
but except in the case of a new manage, a worn
or thin upper blanket can generally be used for
the purpose.
Scarlet blankets when they are preferred can
be bought for the same price as the white. Grey
blankets are now little used, except those of a
very hard make, which are sold for charity
purposes.
The Scotch blankets are generally sold by
weight. For instance, the well-known make
called " Scotch Teviot " are made in weights
from 5 lbs. to 10 lbs. 6 lbs. is a good single-bed
size, and measures about 68 by 76 inches. 9 lbs.
is a good double-bed size, and measures about
78 by 90 inches. An extra large size weiglis 10
lbs., and measures 80 by 94 inches.
This range is sold according to quality - 6 lbs.
weight from 17s. 9d. to 25s. retail ; 9 lbs. weight
from 21s. 9d. to 42s. retail.
262
THE 'WOMAN'S BOOK
Tho twilled blanket is also much used as
binders or uftder-blankets. Thoy roscmblo very
much a serge materi{il, but are very warm and
durable. Tho prices are from 10s. to 18s, a
pair (retail).
Note. - Tho above particulars and prices re-
garding Scotch blankets have been kindly sup-
plied by Jlessrs. Charles Jennor & Co., Princes
Street, Edinburgh.
Of course, it will be quite possible to buy
blankets at a much lower price than the above,
but nothing cheaper can bo really recommended
for comfort and good wear, unless it may be
a lot slightly soiled which can sometimes be
picked up at a sale.
Marking Blankets. - Blankets should always be
C£irefully marked. This is best done in wool,
worked in cross-stitch from a sample (see p. 406).
Tlie lettering should match in colour the
button-holing on the blanket or any colour
introduced in the weaving. If the blanket is all
white, then the sewing might be done in some
pretty contrasting colour. Cash's woven letter-
ing can also be used for the purpose, or the name
be written in ink on a piece of tape and sewn on
to the blanket, but the first method looks best.
Care and Cleaning of Blankets. - Blankets that
are not in use should be stored away in a blanket
chest or on the shelves of the linen cupboard.
If they are to be left for some time, precautions
must be taken to prevent their being attacked
by moths. Put camphor, naphtha balls, or
Russia leather parings between the folds, and
then sew the blankets into a piece of old sheeting
or other cotton material, taking care that no
holes are left where the moths could enter.
The washing or cleaning of blankets is another
very important point. Some people consider
that if they are cleaned once a year, generally
at the annual spring cleaning, this should be
sufficient ; but one must be guided somewhat
by circumstances. If the blankets are used in
a room where a fire is frequently hghted, or in
a smoky and foggy neighbourhood, twice a year
will not bo too often to have them attended to.
Then again after a case of illness the blankets
used on the Ijod should always be cleaned, and, if
necessary, disinfected as well. Of course, un-
necessary weishing must be avoided, as it im-
poverishes the material, and there is always tho
danger of a certain amount of shrinking.
If washing is the modo of cleaning to be
adopted, then great care must be taken in the
choice of the laundry to which they are sent.
Preference should be given to one where they are
dried in the open air. If there is the slightest
doubt aa to their being well done at a laundry,
then it is a much wiser plan to send blankets
to a professional cleaner. The price for cleaning
will vary from Is. to 28. per pair, according to
size, which may mean a little extra expanse as
compared with washing, but it is cheap when
one considers that the so-called weishing often
spells " ruin " to a beautiful blanket. In the
case of new blankets, it is always better to have
them cleaned instead of washed, as the first
time of washing is always more difficult. It
must be remembered, too, that once a blanket
becomes clotted and non-porous through bad
washing, it ceases to be so healthy.
The length of time blankets keep clean depends
upon the care that is taken of them. They
should be protected by night as well as by day
with a cover of some sort. So if the bed-cover
is removed at night, whicli is the correct thing
to do, there should be a thin cover underneath or
an ordinary sheet to cover the blankets. Then
again, when a bed is being turned down or made,
the blankets must not be allowed to sweep the
floor, but be laid over the backs of two chairs,
and then handled carefully. It is a good plan
to have the blankets well brushed from time to
time, and hung in the open air for a few hours.
Upper blankets are always sold in pairs, but
some people prefer to have them neatly cut in
two, and the raw edges button-holed in wool to
match the other end of the blanket.
Mending of Blankets. - When blankets begin to
show signs of wear, they should be carefully
darned with wool of the same colour, and when
a hole appears it should be neatly patched with
a piece of blanketing of a suitable texture.
(For details, see under Needlework, p. 415.)
What to do with Old Blankets. - Old blankets
can be utilised in many different ways. Large
blankets can be cut down to make blankets for
beds of a smaller size, or if not sufficiently good
for the purpose they may be used as under-
blankets. If very thin, the material might be
doubled and button-holed together at the edges,
and this would make a capital under-blanket.
Then in houses where there are children small
pieces of blankets will be found invaluable, either
to cover them when they are asleep or for them
to sit on. In cases of sickness, too, scraps of
blanket are frequently required for fomentations
and other purposes. Small pieces will also be
required for patching other blankets ; and very
old pieces will always be found useful as floor-
cloths or for cleaning purposes, such as the
waishing of paint, &c.
TABLE LINEN
It has often been said that the refinement of
a household may bo judged to some extent by
its table appointments, and more particularly
by the dainty freshness of the table napery.
The soiled and crumpled table-cloth replete
with holes is characteristic of the third-rato
lodging-house and not of the well-ordered
household.
If when buying table-cloths a littlo care is
expended upon their selection, to keep them
in good condition should bo a comparatively
simple matter ; always providing, of course.
HOUSEHOLD LINEN
263
that they are entrusted when soiled to a fairly
capable laundress, and that the proverb " A
stitch in time saves nine " is borne well in
mind.
Double damask, bleached or unbleached, is
the best material to buy. It wears well, and
keeps its appearance to the end. There is
nothing to be gained by buying inferior table
linen ; it may have a very fine glossy surface
when new, but the first washing removes all
this dressing and leaves only a poor limp material
which wrinkles up and soils very readily.
The design to be chosen is entirely a matter of
taste, and each season shows something new.
It must be borne in mind, however, that the
newest designs generally cost a little more money,
so, where economy has to be considered, it is
as well to ask for something of an earlier date,
which may at the same time be just as pretty
and eflEective. As a rule, a table-cloth with a
small all-over pattern, such as spots, stars,
diamonds or small sprigs, is cheaper than one
with a large central design and border.
Table-cloths with some colour introduced,
generally red or blue, are used by some people
as luncheon or breakfast cloths, but the fasliion
is more German than English, and at present
is not much in favour.
Then there is a fashion at present for using
dinner sets - a centre and mats in place of a
cloth ; but tills can only be adopted by those
who have a very finely poUshed table or a
beautiful oak surface to show, and is not likely
to become general.
For kitchen use the unbleached dameisk cloths
answer the purpose ver\ well, as they will not soil
so quickly as the pure white cloths. They
ought to be bought strong and good, although
the quality need not be so fine as the other
household cloths.
Table napkins, or serviettes, to be correct,
should match the table-cloth with which they
are to be used in quality and design. Tliis,
however, entails additional expenditure, as
a much larger number will be required than
when they are used generally with any cloth.
For this reason it is a good plan to buy two
table-cloths of one pattern, as it wiU then be
found easier to regulate the supply of serviettes.
In fact, in small households of moderate means
it is just as well for everyday use to buy all the
serviettes alike, and to choose a small un-
obtrusive pattern that can be used with any
cloth. Then for special occasions there can
bo a set kept in reserve which matches the
best tablo-cloth in pattern and quality.
Size and Price. - The size of the table-cloth is
very important, as it will not look well unless it
hangs at least half a yard over each end of
the table and twelve inches at the sides. Care-
ful measvu-ements should therefore be taken of
the tables for which the cloths are required
before buying is thought of.
A very good double damask table-cloth in a
small spot design can be bought at the follow-
ing prices : - 2 by 2 yards, 10s. ; 2 by 2^ ygu-ds,
12s. ; and 2 by 3 yards, 14s. ; and these are par-
ticularly suitable for breakfast or luncheon cloths.
Those of a more elaborate design will cost from
14s. 6d. to 27s, 6d., 18s. to 35s. 6d., and 21s. 6d.
to 42s. and upwards for the same sizes re-
spectively, while larger sizes wiU cost still more
in proportion. A large cloth of very fine quality
cannot be bought under £4 or £5.
Other designs in fine quality damask, with
hand-made lace insertion and hem-stitched
borders, will cost from 60s. to £18 and upwards,
according to size and the quaUty of the work.
Serviettes are made in different sizes - i.e.
22, 27, and 31 inches squaxe ; the medium size
is the most usual, although the smallest ones
are frequently used for breakfast. Very good
serviettes can be bought for 16s. 6d. per dozen
for the medium size and 12s. 9d. for the smaU
size, while as much as 45s. and 68s. can be given
for the same size in an extra fine quality.
There are a number of small articles in the way
of table Unen, such as tray-cloths, afternoon
tea-cloths, doyleys, carving-cloths, sideboard-
cloths, table-cloths, &c., which will also be
required in a household, but a list of these is
scarcely necessary, as they must be bought to
supply indi\adual needs. These are the little
things which are frequently given as presents
to those starting house for the first time, while
in an old-established menage scraps of damask,
linen, &c=, can often be utilised for the purpose.
In any case, they should never be bought in
large quantities, as they can so often be picked
up at a very moderate rate and at odd times as
the use for them arises. Fashions too change so
quickly, that it is better to have a small stock
and renew it when necessary.
Quantity required. - Allau-ances. - Tliis, again,
depends very much upon the means of the
household, and must be regulated according to
indixidual circumstances and the special arrange-
ment of meals. In houses where a large amount
of entertaining is done the quantity will neces-
sarily be increased.
A very moderate supply would be four table-
cloths of average size for each meal, and three
dozen serviettes, two cloths of extra quality and
extra size, if necessary, for each meed, and two
dozen ser\aettes to match.
It is always better to keep a cloth specially
for dinner, and a different one for breakfast and
luncheon or supper. In this case perhaps it
will be sufficient to give out one of each kind
in a week, although in many houses the dinner
cloth will be changed as often as tliree times
a week.
Serviettes should be changed at least twice a
week, or fresh ones for dinner every day where
it can be afforded. One table-cloth a week is
the usual allowance for servants' use.
264
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The table linen has so much to do with the
success of a meal that it should never bo
allowed to become too dirty or crushed. If a
table-cloth heis to do duty for several days and
look well all the time, great care must bo taken of
it. It should bo folded carefully and always
in the original creases, and each fold should
bo smoothed out with the hands. If it is kept
in a drawer, it must be laid perfectly flat, but
what is better still is to put it
into a hnen press, as shown in the
accompanying diagram. When
the cloth has been laid in between
the boards, tho tension should be
screwed down as tightly as it
will go without destroying the
material, and if the table-cloth is
I ■ I H allowed to remain several hours,
I '"^ I ■•^ it will come out looking as if it
l1"- X--' had been newly " done up." Tho
screw of the press should bo
loosened when not in use. Failing
a press, the cloth may be slowly mangled if it has
become very much crushed.
Another point about table-cloths is that they
should never be put directly on tho bare table.
An old table-cloth or piece of felt should always
be laid under it. This not only acts as a silence
cloth, but it enables one to lay tho cloth more
smoothly. If a piece of felt has to be bought
for the purpose, then wliite should be chosen,
as then there will be no fear of staining should
water or any other Uquid be spilt.
Kitchen and Household Towels. - Besides the
towels required for bedroom use, there is also
a stock indispensable to kitchen and household
purposes, such as : -
Roller Towels.
All household cloths should be hemmed and
marked with the name and purpose for which
they are intended. If there are several servants
in a house, it is a good plan to let each one have
her own special set for wliich she is held respon-
sible, and they ouglit to be instructed as to the
legitimate use of cacli kind. In somo household
towels the name of its kind is wovcninto each one,
such as "Glass Towel," " Tea Cloth," " Kitchen,"
&c., then to distinguish one maid's towels from
another's they can be bought in various styles
and colours, with a blue and white or red and
white check, a blue or rod border, or all white,
and so on. If just a little difference is made,
coruusion will bo avoided, and tlio blame of lost
towels will not be likely to fall upon tho WTong
person.
Towels and dusters should bo given out
regularly once a week, and tho last week's lot
should always bo accounted for. Tlio number
required depends entirely upon the amount of
work to bo done. It is a mistake to be niggardly
in giNnng out supplies - ^it should be remembered
that people have different ways of working, and
as a rule it is not wise to limit a good worker,
but to give what is asked for witWn reason.
The only point that must bo insisted upon is
that the towels and dusters are kept clean, taken
care of, and never bundled away damp in dark
corners.
Except in the case of a young manage, it should
not be necessary to buy all these towels new.
The duster supply especially can generally bo
provided for by using up pieces of old soft
material ; thin bedroom towels can be cut
down to make lavatory towels or basin cloths,
and old bath towels for drying floors and so on.
(See also " What to do with Old Linen," p. 267.)
If now dusters must be bought, they can bo
procured ready made from 3d. each, or if the
material alone is bought, there is notliing better
than a cheap sateen. This can be cut up in
convenient pieces, and a hem laid and machined
round in a very short time. These will be found
excellent for furniture, and they become softer
each time they are washed.
Dish cloths again can be made of any old soft
material, such as remnants of Turkish or other
old towelhng. It is a mistake to have them
very close in texture, or they \\nll too readily
absorb grease. There is really nothing better
than the knitted kind, made of strong unbleached
knitting cotton worked with rather coarse
needles. These wear well and can be washed
and boiled over and over again.
Cloths known as " swabs " are very useful for
house cleaning. They are made of a coarso
open material, and are better and stronger than
flannel for washing floors, tiles, and doorsteps,
and they have the fiu-ther advantage of leaving
no fluff behind. Tlie price is about 2d. each.
Dust Sheets. - Old sheets or bed-covers can
generally bo used, but where these are not
available, thin unbleached calico or holland
should be bought and sown up into suitable
sizes. It will cost from 4Jd. to 6d. per yard.
The number of dust-sheets required will depend
entirely upon tho amount of furniture to be
covered.
House Flannel. - A linen cupboard should al-
ways contain a supply of this, but it must be
given out with care. The remains of old blankets
can often be utilised.
THE LINEN CUPBOARD
The durability of linen depends very much
upon its being well kept. If it is treated with
care, it will not only look better, but it will last
longer. To keep it nicely, a linen cupboard or
its equivalent is a necessity. In houses with
good cupboard accommodation, and especially in
the old-fasliioned ones, a place specially fitted
HOUSEHOLD LINEN
265
up for linen is generally provided. Sometimes
even a small room can be reserved for the
purpose, where, in addition to the linen proper,
spare blankets, curtains, and other upholstery
which is not in use can be comfortably stored
away. The linen cupboard should be in a
Linen Cupboard.
dry and airy situation, and not against an
outside wall, which is not always free from
nnoistixre. If linen is allowed to become damp
it mildews and rots very quickly. It can
frequently be arranged that the hot-water
pipes going to the bath-room pass through the
linen cupboard, and the inner wall is warmed by
a kitchen flue, or that the shelving is fitted in
close proximity to a hot-water tank. In this
way the linen is kept well aired.
If no special cupboard is provided, and in
modern houses, and especially in flats, this is
frequently the case, tnen perhaps an ordinary
cupboard can bo utihsed, or an old-fashioned
wardrobe with shelves and drawers underneath.
Failing this, it is sometimes possible to have
shelving fitted up in some recess, and then a
light wooden door made to keep it free from
dust ; or merely a door frame, the panels being
filled in with some pretty cretonne or tapestry.
A linen cupboard should be well provided
with shelves, and these should be wide enough
to hold folded bed and table linen comfortably,
with a little room to spare. The shelves are
frequently made of simple spars of wood with
spaces between, and this plan allows the air to
circulate round the linen better than it would
in the case of solid wood.
Arrangement. - The shelves of the linen cup-
board should be covered with thin calico or with
strong white paper, which can be renewed from
time to time. Each kind of linen should have
a shelf or a portion of a shelf devoted to itself ;
ihna bed linen should be arranged in one place,
table linen in another, towels in another, and so
on. Linen sheets should be kept separate from
cotton sheets, large sheets from small sheets,
different sets of table-linen by themselves, each
class of towel by itself, &c., and all of one kind
together. AiTauge the linen methodically in
neat piles, and in an order most convenient to
yourself. Finer and better tilings which are
not in common use should be wrapped up in
muslin or pieces of old sheeting and labelled ;
otherwise they are Uable to be pulled out by
mistake and used in a hurry. The shelves of
the linen cupboard must be kept carefully
covered to prevent the dust falling on the hnen.
Some people have small rods fixed to the
edges of the shelves, by which covers can be
attached by means of rings or a casing, and
these can then be folded back over the linen,
or loose covers of thin hoUand fastened to the
edges of the shelves with large drawing-pins
will answer the purpose very well. The covers
must be large enough to cover the linen well
and to tuck in all round. Needless to say, they
must be kept very clean and washed at regular
intervals. The door of the linen cupboard
must always be kept locked, or at least tightly
closed.
Scenting the Linen. - The old-fashioned plan
of putting lavender among the bed Unen is
a very dainty one. The dried lavender can
either be bound up in bundles, or the flowers
put into a muslin or thin silk bag, and laid
between the folds of the sheets and pillow-cases.
Instead of lavender, dried rose-leaves, helio-
trope, verbena, or powdered oris-root can all be
used. Any of these will give a dehcate scent
to the bed-linen.
Marking. - It is very important to have every
article in the linen cupboard carefully and
distinctly marked. Shopkeepers who supply
the linen are generally very willing to do this
in ink, free of charge. There are different
methods of marking, and, of course, the most
artistic is to have the name or monogram of
the owner embroidered on the material.
Linen drapers will generally undertake to do
this on payment of the required fee - the
simple initials will only cost a few pence, wliile
more elaborate designs will, of course, be more
costly. A pretty monogram may cost as
much as 5s. or 7s. Those who have time and
clever fingers will like to do it at home, and the
process is not a difficult one.
Cash's lettering is another way of marking.
A combination of any two letter combinations
can be bought ready for lOd. per box of one
gross, or any length name made to order in ten
days, in Script, Old English, or Block style type,
for 4s. 6d. per gross, 2s. 9d. per half gross.
These can be embroidered in red, navy, black,
blue, yellow, green or white, on fine tape, and
are easily sewn on to the linen. They do very
well, for such things as sheets, blankets and
towels, but would not look well on table linen.
There is always the danger, too, of their being
picked off if the linen passes through the hands
of dishonest people. If the washing of the
linen is to be done in a public laundry, the
simple ink marking is as good as any. The
266
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
mark should be put in the top left-hand corner,
as it is most convenient for folding. In addi-
tion to the name, it is a good plan when
marking to put the number of articles in each
set, and the date of purcliaso as well, thus -
supposing the name to be Grant, and the
number of articles six, one would put
6- Grant, 1910.
In the case of bed-linen some people put
a mark to show for wliich room it is intended
as well, and with table-hnen when separate
table-cloths are vised, for luncheon and dinner,
the word luncheon or dinner could bo marked
in accordingl}'. If the marking is to be done
in ink at homo, be ceireful to choose one of
a reliable quality, as inferior kinds turn a
bad colour, and sometimes biu-n a hole in the
fabric. If there is any uncertainty as to the
ink being satisfactory, it will be wise to test it
first on a piece of rag ; then submit the rag
to all the processes of washing, boiling, and
ironing, and see how the ink stands the treat-
ment. If good, it should come out clear and
black. A metal pen should never be used for
marking, as the steel of the pen combined with
the ink often forms an acid, which spoils the
linen. A ' proper quill pen for the purpose is
usually sold with each bottle of ink.
Small india-rubber 'Stamps can be bought for
marking linen, but the resvdt is not elegant.
These are more smtable for large institutions
than for home use.
Kitchen towels and dusters mvist bo marked
as methodically as bed linen.
Inventory. - It is very important, too, that a
list bo made of every article the hnen cupboard
contains. This should bo entered in a small
book kept for the purpose, and space should be
left for any notes or alterations. It is a good
plan to put a note of the price and the date of
purchase against each article, as tliis is useful
for future reference. When new hnen is bought,
it must at once be added to the hst, and any
that is discarded should be struck off. The list
•will require revision from time to time, and the
Btock should bo counted carefully and compared
with the numbers in the book. If the Unen is
in charge of one of the maids of the household,
the mistress should go over the list with her
and check every item. A simple copy of the
list, without any notes and comments, might
also be fastened to the door of the linen cup-
board by means of drawing-pins, as this can be
easily referred to at a glance. Of course, some
of these details may be simplified in very small
houses, although at all times it is wiser to
have housekeeping done in a methodical and
business-like manner, and it really saves time and
expense in the end.
Care of Soiled Linen. - To allow soiled linen to
accumulate is a habit to be condemned. Both
personal and bed linen is liable to have an un-
pleasant odour, and the sooner it can be washed
the more sanitary and hygienic it will be for
every one concerned. A weekly washing is
strongly to be recommended, and under no
circumstances should soiled linen remain un-
washed longer than a fortnight. Meanwhile,
it must be kept in a ventilated receptacle. A
light basket is the usual thing, and nothing
could bo better. If possible, the soiled linen
should be kept in a small room or closet that is
not used for sleeping purposes - it is not a
healthy custom to store it in a bedroom, but
where this is unavoidable, there is all the more
necessity to have it turned out and washed as
soon as possible.
Sending out the Washing. - Before sending out
a waslnng, great care must bo taken to make an
accurate Ust of all the articles. The list should
be written in a book, and not on slips of paper,
which are readily lost. In large households it
is a good plan to make the list in duplicate,
sending one copy to the laundry and reserving
the other for reference on return of the wasliing.
Some laundries supply their own books with a
printed hst of the different items, and all that
is necessary is to date it and fill in the number
of the different articles. Or special laundiy
books, such as Lett's, can be bought for a few
pence. Everything that requires washing
should first be collected together in a given place,
and if there are different maids in the house
each one should be responsible for the collecting
of her own towels, &c. Then have the things
divided into lots, according to their kind, and
carefully counted. If the washing is a large one,
it will be much easier if two can be engaged at
the work ; then one can do the counting, while
the other enters the numbers in the book. It
is always safer to count everything tvvice in case
of any mistakes. It is always well too, in making
the Ust, to put some notification of the kind of
article sent - such as Zinen • sheets, cotton sheets,
large table-cloths, kitchen table-cloths, and not
merely to classify them under the heading of
sheets or table-cloths respectively.
The soiled linen must then be put into bags or
packed in a basket ready to be sent away, and
the written list must in all cases accompany it.
For directions for home washing, see
" Guide to Laundry Work," p. 271.
Return of the Washing. - When the Unen is re-
turned from the washing, it must bo most care-
fully checked, first as regards numbers, and then
as regards the kind of washing it has received,
and the mending that may be required. If
there is any article missing, it should have a
mark put against it in the book, and inquiry
must at once be made about it, and when re-
ceived a note must be made of the fact in the
book. It is also important when checking to
examine the linen to see that all has been well
washed, and if there is anything faulty, it should
be returned to the laundry with a note asking
that it should be redone and returned in better
HOUSEHOLD LINEN
267
condition. It is a good plan to keep a list of the
laundry prices at hand, so as to compare them
with those marked in the book. Anything re-
quiring mending miist be put aside until it can
have attention, and the remainder aired if
necessary, and then put away in its proper place
on the shelves. The freshly washed articles
should always be put at the foot of the pile
already there, as this will ensure equal wear,
everything being used in rotation. Regular use
is also a protection from mildew.
Airing of Linen. - It is most important that
all Unen should be thoroughly dry before it is
laid away. In many cases it is not necessary to
air it when it comes from the laundry, as it
arrives almost warm from the hot air closets,
but where the least dampness is suspected it
should have attention, or it will be liable to
gather mildew. And then again, just before
bed lineu is used, it shotild be well aired, unless
the linen cupboard happens to be a heated one.
The sheets should be hung in front of a good
hot fire, and turned and re-turned until they
are warmed through and through. If linen
is stored in a cold cupboard, it readily absorbs
moisture, whilst a spell of wet weather, especially
after frost, will render it quite damp, and when
we consider what serious results may follow the
sleeping in damp sheets, the slight extra trouble
of airing the linen will not be objected to.
Mending of House Linen. - After the first few
weeks of wear hnen will require examination for
repairs. Buttons and tapes soon begin to dis-
appear, the ends of hems and seams come un-
done, and other stiti hes here and there will be
required. Then later on more serious mending
will be necessary - patching, darning, and adapt-
ing. The housewife need never be ashamed
of linen that is well mended ; on the contrary
she should be proud of it, fop it will serve to give
eloquent testimony of her patience and thrift.
The proper time for patching and darning
house linen is before sending it to the washing,
and slight rents must have instant attention.
If it is not convenient to mend bed linen and
towels before washing, any holes or tears must at
least be drawn together or roughly mended with
a needle and cotton, or the hard treatment to
which they will probably be subjected in the
laundry will only tend to increase them tenfold.
Table linen, however, must always be mended
before it is done up, as it would be impossible to
do it when starched and ironed without crushing
it considerably. If a large patch or darn is
required, it is even better to have the damask
washed and rough dried in order to remove all
the dressing before attempting the mending.
Wlien sheets show signs of wear in the middle,
it is a good plan to cut them in two lengthways,
and to join the two outer edges together. The
cut edges will then reqviire to be hemmed. Or
if a large sheet begins to wear in other paxts, per-
haps the best pieces can be taken to make a sheet
for a smaller bed or cot. Always try to get as
much as you can out of a sheet before putting it
aside as old linen.
Note. - For directions for mending, see
Needlework Section, p. 411.
What to do with old Linen. - No matter how
much care is taken of house Unen it will even-
tually wear out.
Old cotton sheets can always be used as dust-
sheets, or if these are not required, the best
pieces can be cut out and made into cloths for
various household purposes, covers for the hnen
cupboard, covers for drawers, or for wrapping
up fine Unen or blankets, &c.
An old Unen sheet is more valuable, and the
remains should be put to some better use. The
top and bottom which has not had very hard
wear will Ukely be in good condition, and a strip
can no doubt be cut off wliich, with a little hem-
stitching and embroidery, will make quite dainty
sheet-shams. Or smaU good portions might be
made into pillow-shams, and smaUer pieces still
could be cut up into centres for doyleys and tray
cloths, or the cover for a cosy, or perhaps even
a complete toilet set for a bedroom. Any one
with clever fingers and a Uttle ingenuity can,
with some embroidery and the addition of
pretty lace and insertion, make many a dainty
article out of smaU pieces of Unen. Pieces of
Unen which are too worn to be worth any sewing
should be carefully rolled up and laid aside, as
they wiU no doubt be found invaluable in the
case of sickness.
Old table-cloths, when they can no longer be
darned or patched, can be cut down into tray
cloths, sideboard cloths, ceu-xang cloths, &c.,
and also it is always weU to keep a few old pieces
of damask at hand for patching and mending.
Old towels can always be used up as household
cloths ; in fact, the more thin and worn they are
the more useful and valuable they wiU be for
some purposes. A collection should always be
made in view of any spring or special cleaning ;
they wiU come in very handy for the drying of
paint and woodwork, &c., and a plentiful supply
wiU be a great boom.
Old pillow-cases make useful bags for keeping
various patching materials, &c.
Old Blankets. (See p. 262.)
Replenishing the Linen Cupboard. - It is not
wise to allow the linen supply to fall too low, ets
this will mean pajang out a big sum sooner or
later to bring it back to its normal condition.
It is much better, when it can be managed, to add
something new every year, even although it may
only be a pair of good sheets, half-a-dozen towels,
a fine table-cloth, or a few serviettes. In this
way the supply is kept up at very Uttle expense.
It might just be mentioned here that household
Unen is one of the things that can often be very
profitably bought at a sale. The large linen
warehouses sell off their old stock, either because
the patterns are not of the latest or because the
268
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
materials are shop soiled, and as this in nowise
detracts from the value of the article a great
saving can be realised by buying what is neces-
sary at these times.
The following lists with estimates have been
compiled from information kindly supphed by
Messrs. Waring & Gillow, Oxford Street, London,
and wiU perhaps bo a guide to those who have to
stock their linen cupboard for the first time.
Tlie quantities can, of course, be increased or
decreased according to special requirements.
Eatimate No. 1- £17 18s. 5d.
Description.
Price.
Amount.
s.
d.
£ s.
d.
3 double damask cloths, 2
by 2i yards . . .
10
6
1 11
G
2 double damask cloths, 2
by 3 yards ....
12
9
1 5
G
I dozen double damask
dinner napkins
15
0
15
0
3 damask tray cloths . .
2
0
G
0
2 damask sideboard cloths
2
9
5
G
2 kitchen table cloths
3
G
7
0
3 pair cotton sheets, 2| by
3J yards ....
12
6
1 17
G
2 pair cotton sheets, 2 by
3J yards ....
8
6
17
0
12 cotton pillow-cases
10^
10
G
4 pair servants' cotton
sheets, 2 by 3 yards
G
0
1 4
0
4 servants' pillow-cases .
8i
2
10
1 dozen linen bedroom
towels
11
9
U
9
G servants' towels . . .
81
4
3
6 white Turkish bath
towels
1
4 J
8
3
^ dozen glass cloths
5
0
2
6
J dozen tea and china
cloths
5
0
2
6
J dozen strong kitchen
rubbers
6
6
3
3
J dozen housemaids' cloths
6
6
3
3
1 dozen check dusters .
4
6
4
6
4 linen roller towels . .
1
4
5
4
2 pudding cloths . . .
4i
9
4 knife cloths ....
H
1
G
2 pair double -bed blankets
18
6
1 17
0
2 under blankets . . .
3
9
7
G
1 pair single-bod blankets
12
0
1 under blanket
2
9
2 large white toilet quilts
10
0
1 0
0
1 single-bed white toilet
quilt
7
6
7
G
2 pair servants' blankets .
10
0
1 0
0
2 under blankets . . .
2
9
5
G
2 servants' coloured qtiilts
4
0
9
0
4 white toilet covers . .
1
3
5
0
2 servants' toilet covers .
1
0
2
0
£17 18
5
Eatimate No. 2- £31 IGs. 2d.
Description.
4 superior double damask
cloths, 2 by 2^ yards
(hand woven) . . .
2 superior double damask
clotlis, 2 1 by 3 yards
(hand woven)
IJ dozen superior double
damask napldns, 27
inches square (hand
woven)
3 pair large double -
bed superior Witney
blankets
3 under blankets ....
4 pair single-bed superior
Witney blankets . .
4 under blankets . . .
4 pair strong blankets, for
servants
4 under blankets ....
4 fine white toilet quilts, for
double beds . . . .,
6 fine wliito toilet quilts, for
single beds ....
5 coloured or white quilts,
for servants ....
6 toilet covers, for servants
a. d.
14 0
30 0
42 0
2 6
7 6
12 6
8 6
10 0
5 6
8 0
4 6
8 6
10 6
10 0
30 0
6 6
£
1
8.
8
d.
0
1
10
0
1
1
0
15
0
2
5
0
10 0
1 10 0
3 3
4
6
4
G
2
11
6
10
2
0
8
0
42
0
6
6
0
6
6
19
0
30
0
6
0
0
5
3
1
1
0
15
0
3
0
0
2
9
11
0
27
6
p
10
0
21
0
5
5
0
6
6
1
12
6
1
3
7
6
£177
3
1
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
The proper wasliing and " getting up " of linen is an art which remains practically unsolved by
the average housewife, who, when she is obHged to do even the simplest laundry work at home, is
content to get through her task in a most rough-and-ready fashion.
" What is worth doing at all is worth doing well " is a maxim which might be followed with ad-
vantage by the home laundress, who should make a point of acquiring a real practical knowledge
of her work. The information contamed in this chapter has been compiled as a result of many years'
practical experience of laundry work in all its branches, and the amateur laundress should derive
much help from a careful study of these pages.
Home- Washing. - Whether the washing should
be done at home or not is a question which every
housekeeper must decide for herself. There is
a great diversity of opinion on the subject, and
much to be said on both sides.
Given the necessary accommodation, a wash-
house fitted with tubs, a plentiful supply of hot
water, a good drying -green and convenient room
for ironing, there is no doubt that home washing
is more satisfactory and more economical than
having the work sent out. It is more economical,
not only from the money point of view, but in
the wear and tear of the clothes the saving is
unquestionable. Besides, there is the pleasure of
wearing and using lineu which we know has been
washed and rinsed in clean water, and that has
not come in contact with all and sundry garments.
There is also the feehng that one can be a little
more lavish with the supply when it is not neces-
sary to reckon up the cost for the washing of
each separate article. This is a very important
point, when we consider that cleanliness in our
garments and surroundings is one of the first
laws of health, and a law which it would bo
false economy to break.
On the other hand, a housekeeper must con-
sider whether there is the adequate convenience
for doing such a large piece of work as the family
wasliing, and also if there is sufficient help
available for the labour to be undertaken satis-
factorily.
In many houses, especially town houses, where
space is valuable it would be impossible to carry *
out the work successfully, and certainly not
without a great deal of discomfort. There are
other economies to consider besides the saving
of money ; there is the economy of time, the
economy of labour, and the economy of patience
and temper as well.
The probable discomfort of a washing day
deters many people from entertaining the idea
of doing their washing a*- home, and it certainly
271
requires some planning and knowledge of the
necessary details to have the extra work going
on, and to keep the wheels of the house running
smoothly at the same time. If, however, the
work is to be done at the expense of every one's
comfort, then by all means leave it alone ; any
advantages to be gained would be dearly bought
at such a price.
Now that public laundries are springing up
all around us, and their methods for treating
the clothes are improving year by year, there
is no longer the absolute necessity for home
washing.
Sometimes, although it is found impossible to
do the whole washing at home, a part can be
done quite easily, the heavier and more compli-
cated articles being sent out. There is always
more difficulty in undertaking the dressing of
starched hnen, especially such things as gentle-
men's shirts, collars and cuffs, white petticoats,
dresses, &c., and heavy articles Uke sheets and
table-cloths. If these are sent away to be done,
perhaps the rest will cause no difficulty.
If the decision is in favour of home washing,
then it is very important that the process be
planned with care, and then carried out methodi-
cally.
A REGULAR TIME FOR WASHING
In arranging your washing-day, of course take
into consideration the circtmistances of the
household, but have it as early in the week as
possible, and at a fixed hour. As a general rule
Tuesday is the most suitable day, as tlvis lets you
have all necessary preparations made on Jlonday.
Never let soiled clothes remain unwashed longer
than a fortnight, and you must judge from the
amount of work to be done if a weekly weishing
is advisable. Begin operations early in the
day, as clothes dried in the morning air are
always whitest and freshest.
272
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
LAUNDRY UTENSILS, THEIR CHOICE
AND CARE
As all the uton&ils used in laundry work are
subjected to a considerable amount of weeir and
tear, it ia of the utmost importance to have them
good and durable. A little additional outlay at
the commencement in order to obtain first-class
articles will be money well spent, the replacing of
faulty goods will not be necessary, and much
needless worry will bo saved.
At its best laundry work is a somewhat arduous
occupation, and although it is possible to pro-
duce excellent results with the most primitive
implements, this requires the skilled worker.
Under ordinary circumstances, in order to have
the work well done and time and labour econo-
mised, the necessary implements must be
provided.
The number of utensils required will depend
very much upon individual circumstances.
A large household with good laundry accommo-
dation, and all the washing done at home, will
naturally require more than a small household
where the work has to be done in a kitchen and
scullery, and perhaps only part of the washing
undertaken. In the latter case the number of
utensils should be reduced to a minimum through
lack of space to accommodate them. Where-
ever possible, laundry utensils should be kept
apeirt from those used for cooking purposes.
In aU cases it is better to buy just what is
absolutely necessary to begin with, and to add
as the need arises.
The follo\ving utensils will be required to do a
complete wgishing conveniently : -
Tubs. - ^Two or three fitted tubs with hot and
cold water, and one or two smaller movable tubs
or rinc baths for small articles, are the most con-
venient for washing purposes. If fitted tubs are
not provided, then leu-ger zinc or wooden tubs
■wi\l be necessary, and a stand or bench to place
them on. It is very impor-
tant to have the tub placed
at the right height for the
worker. All tubs must bo
kept very clean, and dirty
soapy water must on no
account be allowed to re-
main in them. They must
bo well scrubbed out after
use to remove any dirty
scum that may have col-
lected on the sides. Then
zinc or porcelain ones may
be dried, but wooden ones
should have a little cold
water left in them to pre-
vent them shrinking.
Washing-Board and Brush.
Nl
"vJJ
Washing-Board.
- Both these will be found of great assistance.
The board is useful in the washing of heavy
articlee,such as sheets, table-cloths, counterpanes.
&c., and anything strong and dirty that will stand
a fair amount of rubbing. A wooden board is pre-
ferable to one made of zinc. It should be well
washed on both sides after use, and set up on end
to dry. A brush with good bristles and not too
hard is also useful in the washing of collars,
cufJs, bands, or any very soiled parts which
require extra attention. The brush should be
well rinsed and set up to drj' after use, and never
■used for any other purpose.
A Boiler. - Tliis is generally a fitted arrange-
ment with a small fireplace underneath. It
must be kept very clean, and well washed and
dried after use. If a greasy scum collects on the
sides, a mixture of soft soap and sliredded
Brooke's soap should be applied with a wet
flannel, or a Uttle paraffin may be added to this
mixtiu-e if something stronger is required.
Clean cold water must always be put into the
boiler before the fire is hghted, and the fire
should be out before the boiler is emptied.
Cinders from other fires do very weU for burning
in a boiler fire, or coke is very often substituted
for coal. If no fitted boiler is provided, a large
saucepan can be used and boiled on an ordinary
fire or gas stove. A tin or enamelled one is best,
and, if possible, it should be kept for laundry
purposes only.
Mangle and Wringer. - ^A mangle is a large
machine, with heavy wooden rollers used for
smoothing hovisehold linen and the hea\'ier
articles of clothing. When in use the tension
must be tight enough to press the clothes
sufficiently, and loosened again when finished
with. The rollers must be kept very clean and
free from dust, and the working parts should
be oiled occasionally. A wringer is a most use-
ful machine and almost indispensable if any
heavy washing is to be done. It is generally
attached to a washing-tub, and the clothes are
put through it while wet. The roUers are of
india-rubber, and should be kept clean with
soap and water, or if stained with any dyed
material a Uttle turpentine should be anphed
with a soft rag. As vnih. the mangle, the tension
must be tightened when in use and afterwards
loosened. Nothing that is boiUng hot should
be passed through the wringer or the surface of
the india-rubber will become roughened. With
care the india-rubber ought to last a long time,
and when it does wear out, the coating can be
replaced and the wringer made as good as new.
For small washings the wringer can almost take
the place of the heavier and larger mangle.
Washing Machines. - Various machines are
now made for home washing, and where there is
a large number of things to be done they are
certainly a great aid. A good machine carefully
used will really wear the clothes less than the
ordinary washing and rubbing in a tub. One /
of simple construction should be chosen, and the I
directions, which vary slightly with the different j
machines, will be given with each. Very often i
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
273
a wringer or small mangle is attached to the
machine, and in this case the extra machinery
would be unnecessary.
The " Sunrise " Patent Washing Machine can
be thoroughly recommended. It is very simple
•' Sunrise " Washing Machine.
in construction, absolutely efficient, and occupies
very little space. The price too is only 35s., or
with a rubber roller attached, 25s. extra.
Clothes-Ropes, Pins and Poles. - These are used
when drying is done out of doors, and it is most
important that they should be kept perfectly
clean. Clothes are frequently seen with the
mark of a dirty pin or rope upon them, and this
happens through carelessness. The clothes-
ropes should never be left outside when not in
use. They not only get dirty, but will rot if
exposed to the atmosphere. They should be
rubbed over with a cloth, rolled up and put into
a bag or basket where tnoy will be under cover.
The same care must be taken with the pins
which fasten the clothes to the line. Do not
let them lie on the ground, but see that they are
quite clean, and put them away with the ropes.
New clothes -ropes and pins should be soaked
first in hot and then in cold water before use, as
they are liable to mark the clothes. Clothes-
poles, which are used for propping up the ropes,
must be brought indoors when not in use, and
kept in a clean place.
Clothes-Horse and Pulley. - These are necessary
for drying and airing indoors. The horse, which
is like a screen with bars, is placed round or near
a fire, and the pulley is generally fixed to the roof
of the kitchen or laundry, and can be pulled up
and down as required.
The Ironing Table. - This must be of a good
size, strong, and steady, and of a convenient
height for working at. It should be covered
first with felt or a double fold of thick blanket.
The kind known as " charity " blankets, of a
grey colour and rather a hard make, are very
suitable for the purpose. The blanket should
be l^arge enough to come at least a few inches
ove^ the table all round. A clean sheet will
thori be reqviired to place on the top of this,
which should either be pinned at the four corners
or fastened to the table legs by means of tapes.
Patches and seams should be avoided as far as
possible, or put where they will not come in the
way of the ironing. The heat of the iron must
never be tested on the ironing sheet, as if once
scorched it is almost sure to wear into holes
when washed.
Never lay ironing blankets and sheets away
damp, or they will probably mildew ; and never
let them remain on the table longer than is
necessary, as they get dusty. Shake them well,
and fold evenly before laying away.
In addition to the ironing table, a smaller one
for placing the work on will be found a great
convenience if space permits.
Irons. - Those most generally used are called
flat irons, and for all ordinary purposes they
produce as good work as any other. They
should be of different sizes and have comfortable
handles. Numbers 3, 6, and 7 are useful sizes,
and two, or better three, will be required for each
worker. If any fine intricate work is to be done,
one or two very small irons will be necessary.
Flat irons are best heated on an ironing stove
or on the top of a close range.
Ironing stoves can be had in
different sizes, they take up
very little room, and where
there is a large amount of work
to be done, and consequently
many irons to be heated, a
proper stove will be found more
economical than keeping up a large kitchen fire
for the sole purpose of heating irons. If a
cooking stove is used for heating, the fire must
be well made up, the hearth swept, and the top
of the range wiped free from grease before the
irons are put down. It is not such a good plan
to heat irons in front of an open fire, as their
surfaces are liable to get roughened and smoky.
If it must be done, have the fire bright and free
from smoke before placing the irons, and when
fresh coal has to be added let it be put at the
back of the fire, drawing forward the red cinders.
A smoked iron is fatal to good ironing. Never
put irons into a fire to heat or the surface will be
roughened and the iron rmned for any fine work.
Gas stoves are very convenient for heating one
or two irons, but where a number are required it
will be found an expensive method.
An iron must be well cleaned each time before
using. Have a wooden box, and put at the foot
of it some sand-paper, or ordinary thick brown
paper with fine sand or bath-brick dust sprinkled
on it. Rub the iron well on this first, and the
slight roughness of the sand, &c., will clean it.
Then have a piece of coarse cloth or sacking
with a little grease on it. A piece of bees" -wax
or candle-end slired down and put between the
folds of the cloth will do. Rvib the iron next
on this to make it run smoothly, then finish off
by dusting it with a duster to make it quite free
from sand or brick-dust. Occasionally it is well
Flat Iron.
274
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
to wash the irons thorouglily with hot water,
soda, soap, and a brusli, and then thoroughly
dry. On no account must irons be black-leaded.
Never allow them to cool flat on a stove when the
fire is going out, as damp collects and rusts them,
but either stand them up on end at the side of
the stove or on the hearth-stone. Irons must
bs kept in a perfectly dry place. If you once
allow them to get rusty, the rust eats into them,
and their surface is never so smooth again. If
they are to be laid away for some time, see that
they are thoroughly dry, then grease them well,
and wrap them in brown paper.
It is almost impossible to iron with perfectly
new irons ; they must bo seasoned first. To do
tliis heat them on a stove for several hours, then
clean in the ordinary way, and let them cool.
Repeat this process for several days, and the
irons will be ready for use.
A very good invention is the new patent
" Slip-On " Ironing Shield, wliich can be put
on to any flat iron. No.
4 to 7, after it has
been well heated. This
saves the trouble of so
much cleaning, and the
nickel-plated surface of
the shield will iron the
clothes without a mark,
and produce a high
gloss on the linen. The price is Is.
Various special irons can now bo had to replace
the flat iron, such as box irons. These, as
their name implies, are like a 1 ox, and are heated
by means of a hot bolt placed inside. Charcoal or
Dalli irons, which are heated with hot charcoal
inside the iron. Gas irons, heated with gas, by
means of an india-rubber tube attached to a gas
jet. Asbestos irons, electric irons - heated by
electricity, and also the spirit iron, which is
heated with methylated spirits, and is most
useful where no fire is obtainable, or for a lady's
private use, and for travelling.
Polishing and Goffering Irons. - The polishing
iron is like an ordinary iron with an oval surface
of polished steel. It is used for polishing cuffs
and collars or anything that requires a high
gloss. Goffering irons are used for goffering
Iron Shield.
Polishing Iron.
Goffering Iron.
fnlls, and it is well to have them in different
sizes if both wide and narrow frills are to bo
done. They should be heated in a gas jot, with
methylated spirits, or be placed under a flat
iron on an ordinary stove. They must never be
put into a firo.
Jron-Stand and Holder. - Each ironer must be
provided with an iron-stand, on wliich to rest the
iron, and an iron-holder. Iron-stands are of
different kinds, the simplest being a plain ring of
iron, and others are of more elaborate design ;
but in any case they should stand liigh enough
above the table to prevent the heat of the iron
from scorching the ironing-sheet.
Sleeve Board.
Iron-holders should be made hke kettle-
holders, only more substantial. They should
have several thick folds of flannel or two of felt
inside, sewn together, and covered over with a
clean cotton cover. A piece of kid put between
the folds will help to keep the heat from the
hands. The top cover must be strong. A piece
of strong linen or ticking is suitable, but it must
not be anything from which a dye will come off.
For collars, cuffs, and shirts it is better to have
the holder covered with white cotton. The
holders must be made long enough to cover the
length of the handle, and broad enough to come
well round. When resting the iron, always
take the holder off it. This not only keeps it
cooler for the hand, but very often prevents it
getting burnt when the iron is too hot to use.
Iron-holders should be kept in a box or drawer
where they will not get dusty.
Special irons which are provided with wooden
handles will not require a holder.
.Skirt Board.
Shirt, Skirt, and Sleeve Boards. - These are all
required in fitting out a laundry. The skirl
board is used when ironing the fronts of shirts.
One side at least must bo covered with a double
fold of white flannel, blanket, or felt stretched
tightly over it, and either sewn or tacked ou.
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
275
Above this place a cotton or linen cover, which
can be made like a slip, to be easily removed
when dirty and replaced by a clean one.
Sleeve boards, used when ironing the sleeves
of dresses, &c., must be covered in the same way.
Keep both shirt and sleeve boards covered up
when not in use, to prevent their becoming
soiled.
Skirt boards are used when ironing petticoats,
di'ess sldrts, childi-en's frocks, &c. These being
larger will do quite well if covered with grey
blanket Uke the tables, only it should be tacked
on, and then covered with a small sheet pinned
firmly underneath. It is better to have a sheet
that can be taken off after use, as it will keep
cleaner.
Polishing Boards are Uke skirt boards, only
they are left uncovered. They are used for
polishing collars and cuffs.
Basins. - Tin enamelled basins are the most
satisfactory for laundiy purposes, and it will be
found useful to have several and of different
sizes. These serve for the making of starch,
for holding water when sprinkling the clothes,
and for the soaking and even wasliing of small
articles, such as lace, handkerchiefs, &c.
Bags. - One or two bags for boiling clothes
in ^vill be found useful. They can be made of
strong net or of cotton with a sht in the side
to allow the water to enter, otherwise they will
blow up like a balloon and float on the surface
of the water.
Sundries. - A soap dish, a small enamelled
saucepan and knife for making soap jeUy, a
wooden fork or stick for lifting clothes from the
boiler, a clothes-baskt u, a can for water, a
steel comb and small brush for fringes, one or
two tea-spoons, one wooden spoon, one gill
measure, tliree or four towels, and some soft rag
for rubbers, one or two pieces of white felt for
the ii-oning of lace and embroidery, and three
or four jars for keeping stores will complete the
oufit of a laundry, and the following will give an
idea of the approximate cost.
PRICE LIST OF LAUNDRY UTENSILS
Flat irons, from 8d. to 2s. according to side.
Box iron with pair of heaters, 23. to 3s. each,
Dalli iron (charcoal), 6s. each.
Spirit-heated ladies' iron, 6s. or 7s. each.
Gas iron, 3s. 9d. to 6s. each.
Polishing iron. Is. 6d. to 2s. each.
Electric iron, from 17s.
Tubs - wooden with galvanised hoops, 2s. to
6s. according to size.
Tubs - galvanised zinc. Is. 6d to 3s according
to size.
Shirt board, 3s. to 5s.
Skirt board, 4s. 6d. to 6s.
Sleeve board, Is. 6d. to 4s.
Washing board. Is. 3d.
Large tin boil-.''', 3s. 6d.
Tin enamelled basins. Is. 2d. to 2s.
Mangle, from £2.
Wringer, from 18s.
Washing machine, various prices according to
make.
Clothes -ropes, 16 yards for Is.
Clothes-poles or props, 8d. to Is.
Clothes-horse, 3s. 6d. to 6s.
Goffering irons, 8d. to lid. per pair.
Iron-stand, 4d. to 6d.
Soap-dish, 4d. to 8d.
Clothes-basket, Is. 6d. to 3s.
Can for water, 2s. 6d. to 3s.
Steel comb, 4d.
White felt, about Is. 2d. per yard, double
width.
Laundry blankets (grey charity), 4s. or 5s.
Laimdry sheeting, about Is. 3d. per yard.
MATERIALS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE
Water. - For washing pm-poses it is necessary
to have an abundant supply of pure and soft
water. Cleaning is almost an impossibiUty when
the water is of an earthy colour, and contains
a quantity of mineral matter. Rain water, when
it can be obtained free from impurities, is pre-
ferable to river or spring water, which is gene-
rally hardened by a certain amount of lime
acquired in running through the ground. There
are many chemical tests by wliich one can teU
soft water from hard water, but for laundry
purposes it is sufficient to know that the harder
the water the greater is the quantity of soap
needed to produce a lather. When hard water
must unavoidably be used for washing, some
softening substance, such as soda or borax, must
be added.
Soap. - Good yellow soap is best. Cheap soaps
are no economy, as they contain a large per-
centage of water and waste quickly. Many of
them also contain soda to an extent hurtful to
the clothes. Soap must never be allowed to he
in the water, and all ends, wliich are too small
for washing with, should be saved to make soap
jelly, or else shred down and put into the boiler
when boiling the clothes.
Soda. - This has a softening effect upon water,
and absorbs and removes grease, but if used
in too large quantities it will be found destruc-
tive to clothes, and will give them a grey
appearance. It will also make the hands rough
and sore. Before soda is used it must be
completely dissolved in boiling or very hot
water, for were it to touch the hnen undissolved,
yellow marks would be left, in reality burns,
and these would eventually wear into holes.
Soda must not be used for coloured clothes nor
for flannels, and for fine articles borax will be
found safer as a water-softener. Wlien wasliing
and boiling the coarser clothes, one ounce of
soda wall be sufficient to soften one gallon of
water.
276
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Borax. - This also softens water, but not so
powerfully as soda, and as it is perfectly harmless
it may be used even for wooUen and dyed articles.
Boron, a substance found in borax, acts as a
disinfectant. Allow one table -spoonful of pre-
pared borax to one gallon of water. Borax is
also used for stiffening and glossing linen, such
as coUars and cuffs. It may bo bought either
as a powder or in lump form ; the former is the
more convenient of the two.
Blue. - Tliis is added to the water in which
white clothes are rinsed to give them a good
colour. Tliere are a nvunber of different blues
both in soUd and Uquid form- indigo, ultra-
marine, Prussian, and anihne ; but the soUd
blues will, as a rule, be found handier, and the
required quantity will be more easily judged.
Having chosen the brand, keep to it, and then the
question of quantity will be no difficulty. Blue
which dissolves most readily and leaves least
sediment after the water has stood some time
is the best. Stone or soUd blues should be
firm and not gritty, and they ought to be kept
in a dry place, as they readily absorb moisture.
\Vhen a cake is required it should have the
paper removed and be tied in a small bag or piece
of flannel, when it will be ready to squeeze into
the water. (See p. 278.)
Starch. - ^The stiffening and other qualities of
starch vary according to the substance from
which it is derived, so that it is a matter of great
importance to choose a good kind.
Wheat and rice starches are those most
commonly vised. Rice starch is used as a
substitute for wheat starch for all finer pur-
poses.
Ammonia. - This is also used for the softening
of water and will be found invaluable in the
washing of flannel and knitted articles. It dis-
solves the grease and dirt in a wonderful way, and
thus saves unnecessary rubbing. It must not,
however, be used too freely, or it will impoverish
the woolly fibre. Ammonia should be kept in a
tightly corked bottle, as it is very volatile.
Turpentine. - Used in the making of cold-
water starch, and also for the removal of certain
stains. It should be kept in a tightly corked
bottle.
Bees' -wax and White Wax. - The former is use-
ful for the greasing of irons when candle-ends
are not available, and the latter is sometimes
put into hot-water starch.
Salts of Lemon- Salts of Sorrel.- These are
useful for the removal of cortain stains. As
they are poisonous substances they ought to be
labelled so, and kept in a safe place.
Chloride of Lime. - This is used for bleaching
pvirposes, and also for the removal of very
obstinate stains. It must be specially pre-
pared. (See p. 277.)
Gum-Arabic. - This will take the place of
starch in the stiffening of laco and silk.
Common Salt and Vinegar.- These are some-
times required for the rinsing of coloured
articles.
Methylated Spirits. - Tliis is used in small
quantities in the washing of silks.
PREPARATION FOR A WASHING
Sorting. - Without order and method much
time will be wasted. After having collected all
the clothes to be washed, arrange them in
different lota according to the kind of article and
the tubs available for steeping.
1. Table linen.
2. Bed and other household linen.
3. Body linen.
4. Laces, muslins, and finer articles.
5. Flannels and other woollen or knitted goods.
6. Pocket-handkerchiefs.
7. Coloured prints, muslins, and sateens.
8. Kitchen towels and very dirty articles.
When there is a scarcity of tubs one may be
used for bed and body linen.
Pocket-handkerchiefs should always be kept
apart from other articles until after the first
washing.
As table linen might be discoloured by contact
with greasy clothes, keep it also separate until
after washing.
Mending. - Before washing, all holes or tears
must at least be drawn together if not actually
mended, as the friction of washing would tend
to enlarge them.
All strings should be untied and undrawn, and
any buttons unfastened.
Removal of Stains.- This is generally looked
upon as very troublesome, but it will be found
that the results fully repay the time and labour
involved, indeed, it is absolutely necessary for
the production of good work. The sooner
stains are removed the better. Most stains can
be easily eradicated when fresh, while they
harden if allowed to remain. As soap com-
bined with hot water makes most stains per-
manent, the removing process must take place
before the actual washing begins. Different
chemicals are employed for this, all more or less
injurious to the fabric, so that after the appli-
cation of any of them, the article must be
immediately rinsed in clean warm water.
Rust or Iron-Mould. - Take a small basin of
boiling water, dip the stained part into it, and
then stretch tightly over the basin. Sprinkle
with salts of sorrel, and rub it well into the
stain ; use a piece of rag or smooth stick to do
this, as salts of sorrel is most poisonous and
might bo injurious to the fingers. Allow it to
steam for a short time with the salts on it, when
the stain should entirely disappear.
A solution of oxalic acid may be used in the
same way. Rinse at once.
Ink. - When ink stains are fresh they may be
removed by dipping the stained part in hot
milk and letting them soak for some time, then
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
277
wash out thoroughly. If the stain has been
in for some time it will be more persistent, and
the same method as for rust stains shoxild be
adopted. A black ink stain can also be removed
by pouring some red ink over it, allowing it to dry,
and then washing it out.
Wine and Fruit. - Spread the stained part over
a basin, rub well with common salt, and pour
boiling water through to avoid spreading the
mark. If the stain is still persistent, try salts
of sorrel.
If a fruit stain is left in for any length of time,
it is most difficult to remove. It is sometimes
better to let it wear out gradually ; but if it
must be removed, use oxahc acid weU rubbed
into the part or chloride of lime.
Tea and Coffee. - Spread the stained part over
a basin, rub well with powdered borax, and
pour boiling water through. If still persistent,
use a weat solution of chloride of Ume.
Paint.- - When fresh, remove with tiu-pentine
well rubbed in. If it has become dry, mix a little
ammonia with the turpentine. When the stain
is on a fabric of wliich the coloixr is apt to be
destroyed, moisten first with a little oil, and
then remove w^th tvirpentine or ether.
Mildew. - This is a species of fungus of which
there are several varieties. It often attacks and
stains Unen or cotton, and is caused by the
material being laid away damp. It is one of the
most obstinate stains to remove, and often im-
possible without injury to the fabric. Stretch
the stained part over a hard firm surface, and
rub off as much as will come with a piece of soft
dry rag. Rub in a Utt)*^ salt, and try if the juice
of a lemon will take it out. Failing this, make a
paste of French chalk and water, spread it on the
stained part, and let it dry slowly, if possible in
the sun. Repeat the process if necessary, and
then rinse well.
Use of Chloride of Lime and Sanitas. - Put J lb.
chloride of lime into a basin, and break it to a
smooth paste with a Uttle cold water, then add as
much cold water as will fill a quart bottle, about
1| pints ; stir the lime well up, and let it stand
covered over for a day or two, stirring it occasion-
ally. Tlien lot it settle ; skim it well, and pour
the clear liquid off the top. Strain this into a
quart bottle, and keep it tightly corked.
To remove stains wet a rag with this solution
and apply it to the part. V/hen anything is very
much stained all over, it is best to soak it in cold
water with some of this preparation of chloride of
lime added to it. Make the water smell just
slightly with the lime. This will also serve for
bleaching things when they have become a
bad coloux.
Sanitas is now frequently used for removing
ink, fruit, and wine stains on white cotton goods.
When removing stains the simplest method
should always be tried first before any of the
stronger chemicals are resorted to.
Care of the Chemicals. - Most of the chemicals
used for removing stains are poisonous, therefore
they ought to be labelled as such and kept in a
safe place.
Soaking. - Soak everything except flannels,
wooUen goods, and most coloiu-ed articles. Place
each assortment in a tub, using large basins if
more convenient for the smaller things, and
cover all with cold or tepid water. Never use
hot water for soaking purposes, as it tends to
make dirt adhere to Unen, whilst cold or tepid
water loosens it, and so simpUfies the process
of washing. If the water is hard, either borax
or soda may be added before the clothes are
put in. For the coarser and dirtier things use
soda in the proportion of one ounce of soda to
a gallon of water. This must be previously
dissolved in a little boiling water. (See p. 275.)
For the finer articles use borax instead of soda
in the proportion of one table-spoonful to one
gallon of water. It is perfectly harmless, even
colours not being affected by its use, but it heis
a marvellous power of softening water and of
drawing out dirt. A little soap may be rubbed
on the more soiled part of the clothes, or some
melted soap added to the water.
Very dusty articles, such as window-bhnds
and curtains, should be soaked in plain cold
water until some of the dust is got rid of, and
the water should be changed several times.
Pocket-handkerchiefs should have a handfxil
of salt added to the water in which they soak ; it
wiU make the washing of them easier.
Let the clothes soak for one night at least.
If Monday is yoiu- wasliing day, they may be
soaked from Saturday without harm.
Disinfecting. - This is not always necessarj',
but where there has been infectious illness, or
even bad colds, it will be wise to put the infected
clothing through some process which will destroy
the disease germs. There are various methods
of disinfecting, such as the use of soaking fluids,
exposure to hot air,exposm'e to steam, and others,
but for home purposes there is nothing safer
nor more effective than Izol. It is non-
poisonous, and is undoubtedly very powerful
as a germ destroyer. Use it in the proportion
of 2 ounces of Izol to 1 gallon of water. In tliis
solution the clothes should be allowed to soak
for at least twelve hours. After this the clothes
may be treated in the ordinary way.
Sundry Preliminaries. - The boiler fire should
be laid the night before the washing day, and tlio
boiler itself dusted out and filled with clean cold
water. It will then be ready for hghting tho
first thing in the morning. Cold-water starch,
as it requires soaking, and soap jelly should also
be prepared beforehand. (See pp. 281 and 287.)
It should also be seen that all utensils are clean
and ready for use the following day, and that
all necessary materials are at hand. Eeirly in
the morning the fire should be hghted, and as
soon as there is hot water the washing com-
menced.
278
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
THE WASHING OF LINEN AND
WHITE CLOTHES
The linen liaving boon soaked and all stains
removed as far as possible, it is now ready for
washing. The object in washing is to got rid
of the dirt with as little wear and tear to the
clothes as possible, and to keep them a good
colour. This may be done either by hand or by
machine, but whichever method is adopted the
principles are the same, and it is as well to know
liow to wash by hand. Cominence with the
finest and cleanest articles, generally table linen,
then proceed to the bed and body linen.
Fine towels and sheets must be washed before
the ordinary household linen, and all coarse and
kitchen articles left to the last. First rub the
clothes and wring them out of the steeping
water. Rinse out the tub and half fill it with
water as hot as the hand can bear, adding, if
necessary, a little borax or ammonia to soften it,
or soda when it is to be used for the coarser
clothes. Do not put too many articles into the
tub at one time, and press them well down under
the water. Then soap as much of the article as
can conveniently be rubbed, and wash one part of
the material against the other, and not against
the w-rist or hand. The pressure of rubbing
should come on the lower and fleshy part of the
thumb. Work methodically over every part,
pajdng particular attention to those that are
most soiled, and dip the article from time to
time into the water so as to get rid of the soap
and the dirt. A washing-board, preferably a
wooden one, will be found of great assistance in
the washing of the heavier and coarser things,
and such articles as collars and cuffs will be
cleaned most easily by being brushed on the
washing -board with a softish brush. The brush
is also valuable for the washing of very soiled
articles, such as kitchen towels and aprons.
Large articles, such as sheets and table-cloths,
should be folded for washing and then rubbed
by the selvedge from end to end until the middle
is reached, when it will be advisable to turn and
begin at the other end. If the clothes are not
clean after the first washing, take fresh hot
water and repeat the process. Soap and rub
in the same way in the second water a.s in the
first, turning any article that is tiu-nablo on to
the wrong side.
If the washing is to bo done by a machine, it
will be bettor to follow the directions given
with each special make, as they vary somewhat
in structure. Most of them are simple enough,
and will be found invaluable in houses where a
large washing has to be undertaken.
The above directions only apply to the
washing of ordinary white clothes ; special
articles, such as muslins, lace, coloured articles,
&c., will be treated under special headings.
Boiling. - The clothes should he well wrung out
of the water in which they have been washed
and left twisted, aa this will prevent their floating
in the boiler. Soap should then be rubbed on
them, or added to the water in the boiler in the
proportion of one pound of soap to four gallons
of water. A little soda, borax, or ammonia
may also he added if the water is hard and
the clothes a bad colour. Tie together or put
into bags all small articles, such as cuffs, collare
and pocket-handkerchiefs ; in fact, a carefiil
laundress will put everything into bags ; this
prevents any soapy scum from settling on t)ie
clothes, and avoids the necessity of lifting each
article separately from the boiler.
As the clothes must have sufficient room to
toss about, do not put too many things into the
boiler at one time. Bring the water slowly to
the boil, and boil from fifteen to twenty minutes,
pressing the tilings down occasionally with a
stick to keep them under water. Do not allow
the clothes to boil too long, or they will becoine
a yellow colour, and they must on no account
bo boiled before washing. Wlien the clothes
have boiled sufficiently, hft them out into a tub,
and, if time permits, cover them with the water
in which they have been boiled, letting them
cool in it. This whitens the clothes, and is
almost as good as bleaching, but it cannot of
course be done where washing and drying have
to be accomplished in one day.
The water in the copper must never be
allowed to become dirty, and more water and
more soap must be added for each lot of clothes.
Bleaching. - When the clothes become a very
bad colour, bleacMng will very much improve
them. Take the clothes from the boiler, let
them cool slightly, and, with the soap still in them,
spread them on a green for some hours, sprinkling
them with water from a watering-can if they
become dry. If the clothes are spread out
boiling hot, they will scorch and discolour the
grass.
Rinsing. - This is one of the most importar.L
operations in laundry w^ork. The reason of
clothes having a streaked appearance and bad
colour is very often that the soap has not been
rinsed out of them. Ironing reveals the faulty
work, making unrinsed clothes look absolutely
dirty and giving them an unpleasant smell. Use
plenty of water for rinsing - first tepid, then cold.
To use cold water to begin with would be to
harden the soap into the tissues of the material,
so that to remove it would be almost impossible.
First remove the soap with tepid water, and then
use a plentiful supply of cold until every trace
of it is removed. Too much stress cannot be
laid upon this point.
Blueing. - This improves the appearance of
the clothes by bringing back some of the clear
colour which they lose through wear and age,
and counteracting the slightlj' yellow tinge they
acquire in boiling. In preparing blue water see
that the tub in which the water is placed is
perfectly clean and free from dust and soap suds.
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
279
and add sufficient bluo to make it a sky-blue tint.
It is impossible to lay down absolute rules as to
quantity, as it depends both upon the kind of
blue used and the textiu-e of the articles under-
going operation. As a rule, body linen requires
more blue than other articles, and table Unen
less. If there is any uncertainty as to the
right shade, the water should be tested first on
some small article or piece of rag. The aim must
be to get the clothes of a clear uniform tint
and not too blue. Do not prepare the blue
water long before it is wanted, as a sediment
will fall, and stir it well before immersing the
clothes.
Wring the clothes out of the last rinsing water,
open them out, and put a few at a time into the
blue water, those requiring most blue first.
Work them so as to let the water well tlirough,
then wring out as dry as possible. The solution
will got weaker as it is used, so that more blue
must be added when required, and tliis always
when there are no clothes in the water.
Wringing. - Wringing is getting rid of the
superfluous water in the clothes. This you may
do either by hand or maclaine, but certain pre-
cautions are necessary, or the process will be
destructive. In wringing by hand, twist the
articles selvedge-wise, and be careful not to
wrench them unduly, but to wring with a
sustained pressure. The use of a macliine
causes less wear and tear and also saves time.
Shake out the clothes and fold them evenly
before putting them through the wringer, then
work the machine slowly and carefully. If
worked hurriedly the moisture will not be
properly extracted. I'ass the clothes tlirough
the machine once or t^;^-ice that they may be
wrung as dry as possible. Do not screw the
wringer too tight ; it both spoils the macliine
and is too great a strain on the linen. Hide
away buttons in the folds of the fabric in order
to protect them as well as the rollers ; tapes
should also be concealed, to prevent their being
wrenched off.
After wringing, the clothes must be sorted,
those requiring starching put to one side, and
the others hung up to dry.
Drying. - Clothes are always fresher and
whiter if they can be dried in the open air,
morning air being best of all. But in towns
this is not always possible, owing to the presence
of smoke and other obstacles, and the absence of
space. Still a fine bright day with a little wind
blowing, a good green, and clean lines and pegs
are luxuries for any laundress who has the
success of her work at heart. Tlie clothes-line
must first be rubbed over with a clean duster,
and the clothes pinned or pegged on to it with
the wrong side out, if tliei'e is one. The direction
of the wind should be considered, and the clothes
hung so as to catch the breeze. Hang the
articles well over the line to prevent straining,
and so that they may rot slip off and get soiled
on the ground. Do not hang sheets and table-
cloths by the corners, or they will be apt to
tear. Neither should they be hung next the
post nor near a wall or tree ; a towel or something
small can be put in these spaces. Nightdresses,
sliirts, and the Uke should be hung up by the
bottom or by the shoulders. If by the former,
only one side should be fastened to the line,
and the other side left open to face the wind,
which will blow tlirough and freshen every part.
Small articles, such as collars and cuffs, may
be strung together on a piece of tape, and
if there is any chance of smuts faUing, it is a
good plan to cover them with a piece of muslin
or cambric. On no account must anything be
fastened up by the tapes, as this is most Uable
to strain and injure the garment. Raise the
rope well above the ground by means of a prop
or pole, and allow the clothes to remain until
sufficiently dry. When clothes are dried indoors
they must either be hung on a clothes-horse
near a fire, on pvdleys swung to the ceiMng in a
heated atmosphere, or in steam closets fitted up
for the purpose. If the drying is done before a
fire, the clothes will require turning or moving
from time to time, as the heat is not regular.
Care must be taken not to place them too near
the fire, as the Hnen will not only become dis-
coloured by too close contact with the heat,
but become so dry as to burst into a flame.
Damping and Folding. - Anything that has to
be manglod or ironed must be damped and
folded evenly first. It is a sa\dng of time and
trouble if these things can be taken down from
drying while still slightly wet, for if allowed to
become quite dry they must be sprinkled with
water either by hand or with a small watering-
can. Every part of the article must be evenly
sprinkled, and at the same time not made too
wet. When sprinkling by hand, hold the basin
of water in the left hand, take up as much in the
right as it will hold, and sprinkle it Ughtly over
the material, letting the drops be as small as
possible, and going over every part. Smooth out
the tilings well, fold evenly, seeing that the
selvedges in such things as towels, counterpanes,
sheets, &c., meet exactly.
Avoid all unnecessary creases, but fold the
clothes to a convenient size for passing tlirough
the mangle, and of an equal thickness, so that
the pressure of the mangle may come on every
part. Pack the clothes into a basket, placing
all of one kind together ; those requiring ironing
underneath, and those requiring mangling only
on the top. Cover them over, and lot them lie
for some time, over-night if possible, before
ironing or mangling them.
Mangling. - Mangling is a process of smoothing
clothes by passing them between hea\y rollers,
which are sometimes heated. All household linen,
such as towels, sheets, pillow-cases, table-cloths,
table-napkins, &c., and most body linen may
bo mangled. Mangling requires great care and
280
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
attention in order not to stretch the articles nor
strcun them unduly. Take the damp and folded
things and place them in the mangle perfectly
straight. Do not put too many things in at one
time, and keep smoothing them out as they are
put in to prevent pleats and creases. Work the
mangle steadily, not too quickly, and not by
fits and starts.
It is better if two people can work together ;
then one can smooth and hold the linen as it
passes tlirough, and the other can turn the
handle. Pass the Unen tlirough once or twice,
and keep the tension tight enough to press the
material sufficiently without straining the
mangle unduly. Then fold up and lay to one
side such articles as require ironing, and hang
up to air those that are finished, such as sheets
and some towels.
Airing. - Everything must be thoroughly aired
either after ironing or mangling, and before it is
laid away. The greatest care must be taken
that no dampness is left in them before they are
folded and laid away. Carelessness in this
respect may lead to very grave results.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR IRONING
There is no process in laundry work which
requires greater or neater handUng than that
of ironing, and the proverb, " Practice makes
Perfect," can perhaps be better apphed to tliis
than to any other branch of household work.
Until it can be done with speed it cannot be done
well. An iron cools so quickly that, unless it
can be expeditiously handled, very Uttle can be
done with one, and constant changing not only
makes it a very tiring process, but the clothes
become so dry before they are finished that they
never look well. A novice at the work is almost
sure to meet with disappointment until a certain
amount of experience has been gained.
The ironing table must be placed in a good
light. Daylight is best, and the worker should
stand in such a position that the light will strike
upon the work. Cover the table according to
directions given on p. 273, and have everything
at hand that will be required before commencing
to iron. Have on the table a basin of clean cold
water, set on a plate to prevent its upsetting,
and one or two pieces of clean rag or old handker-
chief to use for rubbing or damping down the
clothes. Place the iron-stand and holder at
the right-hand side and the articles to be ironed
at the left.
The clothes to be ironed must be slightly
damp, but not too wet. Knowledge of the
correct heat of an iron can only be learnt with
practice, no written rules can be of much assist-
ance. If too hot, it will fcorch, and if not hot
enough it will fail to give the necessary gloss,
and may even soil the work. A learner should
test the heat of an iron on a piece of rag kept
on the table for the purpose. The heat of the
iron will bo regulated by the kind of material to
be ironed, and also by the speed of the worker.
Where there is a large plain surface to be ironed,
as in table Unen, a hot and heavy iron can be
used, but when it is something more intricate
and the work cannot be done so quickly, a cooler
iron must be taken. When ironing, lift the iron
as little as possible, and do not thump it down.
Ironing should not be a noisy proceeding.
Iron quickly and at the same time press well.
Prepare and smooth out the work with the left
hand whilst ironing with the right. When any
wrinkle is made in ironing, damp it over with a
wet rag and iron again. Handle the things so
as not to crush the parts already ironed. There
is quite an art in the way the clothes are lifted
and moved about. Iron until the material is
quite dry, and air everything before it is laid
away.
THE MAKING OF STARCH AND GENERAL
DIRECTIONS FOR ITS USE
Clear or Hot-Water Starch. - It is somewhat
difficult to give exact proportions for the making
of this starch, so much depends upon the number
of articles to be starched and the stiffness
required. Individual taste must also be taken
into consideration, some preferring the articles
very stiff, and others the merest suspicion of
starch.
For a moderate quantity, take say two table-
spoonfuls of dry starch, put it into a clean basin,
and add to it enough cold water to make a thick
paste. Work this with the back of a wooden
spoon until quite smooth and free from lumps.
Have a kettle of fast-boiling water on the fire,
take the basin of starch to it, and let a second
person pour the boiling water slowly in. Keep
stirring all the time until the starch turns clear
and transparent, when it is said to be made. The
kettle should not be taken from the fire, but kept
fast boiling all the time. The water used ought
to bo soft and colourless. Should the ■starch
not become clear, it will show that either the
water in the kettle has not been boiling, or too
much cold water has been used in the first mixing.
The mistake can, however, be remedied by turn-
ing the starch into a clean lined saucepan, and
stirring it over the fire until it boils and turns
clear. In fact, some people prefer always to boil
the starch, and say that it brings out its stiffening
qualities to the best advantage.
If the starch is of a yellow hue, a Uttle blue
may bo added to it. A little wax is frequently
added to hot starch to make the articles starched
iron more smoothly, but if the iron itself is
waxed as before described (see p. 273) this is not
necessary.
The starch should bo stirred for a short time
after mixing to prevent a skin forming on the
top of it, and should be kept covered when not
in use.
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
281
It may be used in its present condition for
making articles very stiff, or can be diluted to
suit laces and muslins. For diluting purposes
the water need not necessarily be boiling. It is
sometimes more convenient to use it cold, as it
makes the starch of a more comfortable heat to
use. Do not make more of this starch than will
be required at one time. It will keep for a day
or two, but is better when used fresh.
This starch is used for the stiffening of table
linen, prints, musUns, embroidery, petticoats,
dresses, &c.
Coloured starches are made in the same way
as the above. As a rule they require mixing
with some white starch. Used alone, the
colour is too deep for ordinary purposes. For
instance, for a pale yellow colour, mix in the
proportion of J of cream starch to -J of white,
or for a deeper tint use half of each. The quan-
tity must be regulated according to the shade
required. Special care must be taken when
breaking these coloured starches with cold
water, as if any lumps are left before the boiling
water is poured on they will show up afterwards
as dark coloured spots.
If there is any fear of the starch not being
perfectly smooth, it is safer to strain it.
There are other ingredients which may be
used for tinting starch, as for example : -
For an ecru shade, colour the starch with
coffee. Have some very strong clear coffee, and
use tills for mixing the starch with instead of
water, then pour on boiling water until it turns
clear.
A duller shade, such 13 is seen in old laces, can
be produced by using tea instead of coffee. If a
delicate pink hue is wished, use a decoction of
logwood.
Cold-Water Starch. - The usual proportions
axe : -
2 oz. cold-water starch (rice starch preferred).
3 gills of cold water.
1 tea-spoonful turpentine.
I tea-spoonful powdered borax, or a piece the
size of a small nut of rock borax.
These proportions may vary sUghtly according
to the starch used.
Mix the starch with the cold water, using the
fingers to work out the lumps. Cover the
basin over, and let the starch soak over-night at
least. It is much better if io can soak for several
days ; even although it may turn sUghtly sour,
it will be none the worse, in fact, almost better.
The longer it can soak, the less apt it is to cake
on to the linen.
Care must be taken to keep it very clean and
free from dust.
When about to use it, mix it up again, add the
turpentine, dissolve the borax in a little boiling
water ; if it is rock borax, dissolve it in a sauce-
pan over the fire and add it. If the borax is
left undissolved, it will appear afterwards in
shiny patches on the linen. Use the best quality
of turpentine, or it wiU smell strongly. The
turpentine and borax are added to give a gloss
and to make the iron run more smoothly.
The starch is then ready for use, but must be
well mixed up from the foot of the basin. There
is no harm in making more of this starch than is
reqiiired, as it wiU keep from one week to another.
It must be covered over, and when about to use it
again, if the water on the top looks dirty, pour it
off. The starch itself, which will have sunk to the
foot of the basin, wipe free from dust, and add the
same amount of clean water as before. Add also
a httle more borax and turpentine, about half as
much as before.
This starch is used principally for the stiffen-
ing of collars, cuffs, shirts, and anything that is
required particularly stiff.
BED, TABLE AND OTHER HOUSEHOLD
LINEN
All bed and table linen should be washed
according to general directions already given on
pp. 278-80.
Bed Linen. - Sheets should be stretched well by
two people while damp, folded very evenly in
four, and then mangled. It is not necessary to
iron them, but be particular to air them
thoroughly, turning them occasionally so that
they get dried right through. If there is any
embroidery on the sheets, that must be ironed,
pressing it out well on the wrong side ; or, if they
are hem-stitched, iron the hems to give them a
finished appearance.
Pillow and Bolster-cases may either be mangled
and the tapes only ironed, or they may be ironed
aU over as well as being mangled. The latter
method will of course make them smoother, and
it really reqxiires very httle time to run over
them quickly on both sides with a hot iron. This
is specially necessary for fine Unen pillow-cases.
Ernhroidered Pillow-cases or pillow-shams will
look better if they are put through some very thin
hot-water starch, put several times tlirough the
wringer, and then rolled up for some time in a
towel before ironing. If there are frills, these
should be ironed first, ironing them on the right
side so as to give them a gloss, and go well
into the gathers without making any wrinkles.
Next iron the centre on the right side. If there
is embroidery, keep off it as much as possible,
just ir ning well round it - ironing it on the
right side would press it down. If a pillow-case,
put your hand inside and separate the two sides,
as the starch always makes them stick a little,
then turn over and iron the second side. Iron
both sides free from wrinkles, and trj' to get a good
gloss on the linen. Press out the embroidery well
on the wrong side, and lastly crimp or goffer
the frills (see pp. 284^85.) Air well, and it is
finished.
Bed-Covers. - Thick heavy bed-covers only
require to be stretched and folded evenly while
282
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
damp, well mangled, and then thorouglily aired.
Those of a lighter make are better to be put
through some tliin starch, or some ready-made
starch may be added to the water in wliicli
they are rinsed. Tliis will give them a slight
stiffness, wliich vdll make them look better and
keep their clean appearance longer. If a polish
is wanted, they must bo ironed as well as
mangled. Any lace or embroiderj^ must always
be ironed, and fringes combed and brushed out.
Table Linen, Starching of. - Table linen will
look better and keep its clean appearance longer
if slightly starched. The amount of starch used
depends upon individual taste and the quahty of
the damask. Many people object to the use of
starch entirely on the ground that it rots the
linen. If one had always the very best double
damask to deal with the extra stiffening might
certainly be dispensed with, as the material has
sufficient body in itself to keep its appearance ;
but when the ordinary tliin damask is under
treatment a Uttle starch does no harm, in fact,
it saves in the end, as a table-cloth that is made
slightly stiff will keep clean double the time a per-
fectly limp one would do. Starch also preserves
from stains, and it is only when it is made too
thick, rendering the articles so stiff as to make
them not only lose all their natural beauty, but
also disagreeable to use, that it can be said to be
hurtful.
Table linen should be starched while wet ; it
would be too stiff if starched dry, and the starch
would not penetrate tlirough it so evenly. If
there is a large quantity to starch, it will save
time and much wringing if some very thick
hot-water starch is made (p. 280) and added to the
blue rinsing water ; or if there are only a few
things, after wringing them, put them through
some thin hot-water starch. Wring well after
starching, putting the things through the
wringer as smoothly as possible ; if wrung
twisted they will have a streaky appearance
when ironed. Table napkins and doyleys
should be put through the starch before table-
cloths, as they are required slightly stiffer.
Table-cloths. - After starching dry slightly, and
then each one must be stretched by two
p)eople. Stretch it first one way and then the
other, and shake it out well to get it a good shape
and even at the sides. Fold it by doubling it,
selvedge to selvedge, with the right side out.
Let the single sides drop, and then pick them up,
one on each side, to the double fold. The table-
cloth will then bo folded in four, and the right
side will bo inside. Spread the table-cloth out
on a table and arrange it quite smoothly, making
the folds and the hems at the ends quito even.
Double it and mangle. Lot it lie for some time
rolled up in a cloth before ironing, or if there
is difficulty in getting very hot irons, it will be
as well to let it dry a little first, but be careful it
does not get too dry, or it will not look well.
To iron a table-cloth spread it out smooLhly on
a table in the folds and with the two selvedges
nearest the edge of the table, keep it in the
folds as much as possible. Iron first the upper
part, turn that back, iron the next two parts,
turn back again and iron the next two, and so
on until the whole of the table-cloth has been
ironed on both sides, then double the table-cloth
and mark the fold down with the iron. Air well,
and then either roll or fold. To get a good gloss
on table Unon, the hotter and heavier the irons
are the bettor. Keep them well greased, and
press heavily, ironing until almost dry. If the
table-cloth is very large, it is better if two people
can iron it at one time, otherwise it would get
dry before it was all finished.
Table-Napkins. - Fold them double, selvedge
to selvedge, perfectly evenly, and mangle
several at one time, then let them lie rolled up
in a towel for some time before ironing.
To iron them, take one at a time, shake out
and stretch evenly, lay out very smoothly on the
table with the right side uppermost and as square
as possible. Iron the right side first, then the
wrong, and back again on the right. Be careful
not to stretch the edges out of shape, and iron
until quite dry. They are ironed on both sides
to avoid having one side rough and the other
smooth, as sometimes happens. Give the hems
an extra iron to dry them well.
Table-napkins can be folded either in three or
in four, according to taste. To fold in four,
fold in the same way as a table-cloth, only on the
opposite side, bringing the right side outside
instead of the wrong. Get the ends very even,
press the folds well with an iron, and fold in
four across, making a square again. Air well
before laying them away. To fold in three,
measure the sides (hems) first, and get them
dixnded into three equal parts, press them down
with an iron to keep them in place, then make
the folds right across and iron them down, fold
in three across to make a square again, and press
with the iron once more. If there is a name, it
must be on the outside when the table-napkin is
folded ; if a monogram or raised initials, iron
well on the wrong side to make the embroidery
stand out.
Doyleys. - Starch in the same way as table-
napkins, and let them lie rolled up for some time.
If they have fringes, shake them well out against
the edge of the table before beginning to iron.
This opens out the fringes. To iron, spread out
on the table, and brush out the fringe all round
with a small brush, and comb it -with a fine
comb until it lies quite straigkt, then iron the
centre of the doyley and the fringes on both
sides, and brush and comb the fringe again until
it is quite soft and free. The brushing and
combing must be done carefully, so as not to
draw out the threads, and always before the
fringe is dried with the iron. Finish by trimming
off any untidy ends with a pair of scissors. If
liked, the fringes may bo curled, using a blunt
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
283
knife or a paper-knife, and curling them in the
same way as an ostrich feather.
Doyleys with netted or tatted edges should be
pinned out on a covered board or table, stretch-
ing each point well and putting in pins where
required. Then iron the centres only (ironing
would spoil the edges), and leave them pinned
out until dry. After unpinning them, if the
edges feel rather stiff and hard, pull them out
with the fingers.
Doyleys with a full lace edge should have the
lace ironed first, then the centre, and, lastly, the
lace goffered round very evenly. (See p. 284.)
Tray Cloths and Sideboard Cloths. - These
should be treated in the same way as other
table linen. If they have fringes these should be
brushed and combed out before they become dry.
If they can be ironed on both sides, then do so ;
but if they have a distinct right side, iron on the
right side only, just pressing out any embroidery
on the wrong side, and iron round the hems. If
there is lace round the edges, iron it first before
the centre, and do any goffering that is required
last of all. There is no particular way of folding
tray cloths and sideboard cloths ; just fold them
to the size which is most suitable for laying
away. Long sideboard cloths are better rolled
than folded.
Other Household Linen
Bedroom Towels. - These should be folded
evenly while damp and well mangled. Then run
over them quickly with a hot iron on both sides,
fold them in foixr lengthways, and air well. If
there are fringes, the :e should be brushed and
combed out before ironing ; and after ironing,
combed out again to make them free and soft.
If there are embroidered initials or monograms
on the towels, press them out well on the wrong
side.
Coarse Bath Towels and Turkish Towels. - These
should neither be mangled nor ironed ; the
rougher thej' are the better. Stretch them well,
iron the plain piece at the ends, comb the fringes,
and fold them evenly. Air them well.
Toilet Covers. - These should be put through
thin starch when wet, wrung out, and hung up
to dry slightly. Then fold them very evenly,
double, and mangle well. Next iron on the right
side to get a good gloss, and brush out any
fringes. To fold them, double lengthways and
press the fold down, and then either roll up or
fold once or twice across. Do not make too many
folds in a toilet cover, or it will not lie well.
Kitchen Towels, Dusters, &c. - These sliould
just bo folded evenly wliile damp, and then
mangled. It is quite unnecessary to iron them,
but air them well before laying away.
BODY LINEN
General Directions for the Doing Up of Body
Linen. - All underclotliiiig must be damp for
ironing. Very thin cambric articles will be
improved by being slightly starched, otherwise
they will have a Ump undressed appearance.
If a httle hot-water starch is put into the water
in which they are blued it will be sufficient.
All that is wanted is to give the cambric the
slight stiffness of new material, and not enough
to make it unpleasant to wear. Ordinary
cotton will not require any starch ; it will be
sufficiently crisp if ironed with a hot iron and
sUghtly damp. All frills and embroidery are
improved by being dipped in very thin hot-
water starch, even although the whole garment
is not being done. This should be done when
the clothes are being damped and rolled up.
Gather up the frill in the hand, dip it into
some very thin starch, and then wring out
in the hands or between the folds of a towel.
The slight stiffness this will give will prevent
the frilling curhng up and otherwise looking
limp.
First iron all embroidery or frills. Embroidery
must be ironed on the wrong side over a piece of
felt or double flannel, in addition to the ironing
blanket, well pressed so as to raise the pattern,
and the points pulled out and ironed until quite
dry. Plain frills or frills with just a narrow lace
edging must be ironed on the right side so as to
give them a gloss ; care must be taken to iron
well up into the gathers and without making
wrinkles. All bands, hems, and double parts
should bo ironed on both sides to give them
a more finished appearance. Always keep the
neck or the top of the garment at your left-hand
side, so that the iron may be more easily run
well up into the gathers. If the cotton should
get dry before it is all ironed, damp it down
with a wet rubber. It will never look glossy
if ironed too dry, but will have a rough appear-
ance. Iron out all tapes. Never leave them
twisted and curled up. Iron round buttons,
not over them, or it will be apt to mark them.
Sometimes seams and tucks are inchned to drag
the articles and cause creases, especially when
the clothes are new. They should then be well
stretched out before applying the iron. New
cotton is always more difficult to iron and make
glossy than that which has been washed several
times.
Crimping. - As a rule tliis is done on plain frills,
or on plain frills with a narrow lace edging ; but
embroidery can also be crimped, especially when
it is put on only slightly full and not starched,
in which case it would be unsuitable for goffering.
Crimping can be done with an ordinary iron,
using the back, side, or point according to the
width of the frill. For a very narrow frill use
the point ; for a wider one the back or side, as
is found easiest. When the frill is very wide,
it is sometimes easier to crimp half of it at one
time, crimping first down near the drawings with
the side of the iron, keeping the point close to
the gathers, and then the upper part with the
284
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
back of the iron. Tlio iron must be cool enough
for you to hold the fingers on it.
To crimp, keep the gatliering of the frill at
yoiu- left-hand side, and the frill itself lying
straight across the table. Commence with the
Crimping.
peu-t nearest the edge of the table, drawing the
frill towards you as it is crimped. Hold the iron
with the right hand, run up part of the frill witli
the part of the iron with which you are going to
crimp, put two or tliree fingers of the left hand
under tlie frill and close to the iron, draw the
iron quickly back, following with the fingers of
the left hand, and crimping the frill underneath
it. Only a small piece, an inch or an inch and
a half, can be crimped at one time.
It requires a good deal of practice to do crimp-
ing quickly, and at the same time finely and
evenly. The thicker the material, the firmer
pull back must be given to the iron.
Special machines can now be had for crimping.
Goffering.
Goffering. - This is done with heated goffering
tongs. A frill rec^uires to be pretty full, and to
be starched, in order to goffer well. For wide
and full frills, use the large size of tongs ; and
for narrow ones, the smaller pair. Have two
pairs of tongs of exactly the same size in use at
one time, so that one pair can be heating whilst
you are using the other. Always test them on
a piece of rag or paper first, and see that they
are thorouglily clean and not too hot before
you apply them to the frill.
Place the frill to be goffered lengthways on
the table, with the drawings from you. Pin out
straight as much of the frill as possible at one
time, to keep it steady. Commence at the right-
hand end of the frill and work towards the left.
Hold the tongs in the right hand, putting the
thumb in the lower hole, and the second or
third finger in the upper ; put the tongs right
up to the drawings of the frill, and then turn thorn
half round, so that the hole with the thumb in it
comes uppermost ; keep two or tliree fingers of
the left hand close to the tongs to keep the
goffering in position, and let them remain there
until the tongs are loosened sUghtly and drawn
gently out. Then go a Uttle distance further
back and do the same again, working from right
to left, and being careful not to pull out what
has been already done. In drawing out the tongs
be careful to keep them as flat to the table as
possible, and do not give them an upward jerk.
The distance the goffers are apart depends
on the fulness of the frill. The fuller the frill
the closer the goffers can be. Sometimes when
a frill is only sUghtly drawn merely the mark of
the tongs can be shown.
Always keep the goffering tongs on the straight
of the frill, or with the thread of the material.
Goffering should be regular, and an equal distance
apart. This is sometimes rather difficult if the
frill is not drawn evenly. If there are two frills
to be goffered, do the upper first, then the under.
With practice, goffering can be done quite
quickly. The more quickly it is done, the hotter
the tongs can be used.
Folding and Airing. - Folding depends very
much upon individual taste, and upon the shape
of the garment to be folded. Shapes vary so
much that it is difficult to lay down any hard-and-
fast rules, only it is as well to have some general
rules for guidance.
Always fold so as to crush the garment as
little as possible, laying in pleats caiefuUy
where required. Iron down each fold or pleat
as you make it to keep it in position. Fold
garments so as to show as much of the embroidery
as possible, always having the inside as tidy and
smooth as the outside, I'nd making each a con-
venient size. Keep all tapes to the inside.
All underclothing must bo thoroughly aired
before it is laid away. Although the things seem
dry after ironing, there is always a certain amount
of moisture which clings to them from the iron.
The greatest care and attention should be paid
to this, as want of thought may lead to the
gravest results.
How to Iron and Fold a Chemise. - Have the
chemise on the right side to begin with. First
iron any trimming, frills, or embroidery, and
also bands on both sides. Next fold the chemise
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
285
down the centre of the back, keeping the neck
at your left-hand side. Iron the back, first on
one side, and then tarn over and iron on the
other ; iron the hem at the foot on the wrong
side, and when ironing up near the gathers at
the neck, hft up slightly, so that the iron may
run well up into the gathers, being careful not
to crease the under side. Then open the
chemise out and lay it on the table, so that the
whole of the back is uppermost ; iron the front
hem on the wrong side, and round the arm-holes
and sleeves on the back. The back is then
nmshed. Turn the chemise over and iron the
front- first the bottom part straight across
and the rest of it lengthways ; iron well up into
the gathers and round the arm-holes and sleeves,
and the chemise is finished. Any goffering or
crimping must be done before folding, layincr
It out on the table, or double it so as not to
crush. If there is only a little fulness at the
corners of the embroidery, this can be goffered
after folding.
A chemise may be folded in two different ways
-the side fold or the front fold. For a plain
chemise the side fold is best ; and for a more
elaborately trimmed one the front fold. For
the side fold, double the chemise, bringing the
two side-seams and two shoulders together,
with the back inside and the front out ; lay it
on the table wivh the n- ck at the left-hand side
and the band down the opening of the front
turned uppermost (Fig. 1). Take hold of the
neck and the bottom of the chemise, and stretch
it so that it falls in pleats. Arrange these pleats
evenly, two or three according to the fulness at
the band, and iron them well down (Fig. 2).
Turn the chemise over, see that the pleats are
even on the other side, fold the chemise again
lengthways, making it the same width all the
way down, and turning in an extra piece at the
foot if it is too wide there ; pleat the sleeves back
a httle so that the embroidery only shows over
the sides (Fig. 3), and then fold from the bottom
upwards in tliree or four, according to the size
you wish it to be when finished (Fig. 4). Air
well before laying it away.
For the front fold, first fold the chemise double
so as to find the centre of the back, make a mark
with the iron and open out again. Keep the
back of the chemise uppermost on the table, and
the neck at the left-hand side. Fold in two or
three pleats from the side in towards the centre
of the back and press them weU down (Fig. 1).
Then pleat the other side in towards the centre
of the back in exactly the same way, making the
chemise an equal width all the way down, and
not too broad. Fold the sleeves so that the
embroidery only shows over the sides (Fig. 2),
and fold the chemise into three or four from the
bottom upwards, press well, turn over and see
that the front looks quite straight ; air well, and
it is finished (Fig. 3).
How to Iron and Fold a Pair of Drawers.- Iron
any embroidery or trimming first, and the bands
on both sides. When ironing the waistband,
keep the band next you, and lying lengthways
on the table, and iron the strings if there are any.
Place the pair of drawers on the table front
uppermost, with the waistband at the left-hand
side. Commence with the leg nearest the edge
of the table, smooth it out and iron straight
286
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
across as far up and down as possible until the
drawings interfere, then iron up into the draw-
ings at the top, and if knickerbockers, iron
down into the drawings at the foot, holding the
iron with the left hand. Then iron the hem on
the under part of the leg on the wrong side, and
draw that leg over the table out of the way
whilst the other leg is being ironed. Iron the
second leg on the same side and in the same way.
Next turn the pair of drawers over, still keeping
the band at the left-hand side, and iron the
other side of the legs in the same manner as the
first, not forgetting to iron the hems of the
front part on the wTong side. Goffer or crimp
the frills if necessary, and the drawers are
ready for folding.
To fold a pair of drawers, place the two legs
evenly one on the top of the other, fold in the
shaped piece so as to make them the same width
all the way down, turn any strings insido to
prevent their being pulled off, and fold the
drawers from the top downwards in three or
four. If there is any embroidery at the foot,
separate the two pieces, doubling one leg back
BO far so as to show both pieces of embroidery.
Crimp or goffer the trimming if necessary.
Knickerbockers require to be pleated to make
them lie smoothly. Pleat one leg down, putting
in two or three pleats according to the fulness
between the bands, and not pleating the bands
themselves, then iron the pleats well down.
Place the other leg on the top of that one, and
pleat it in the same way, keeping it exactly
the same width, and having the same number of
pleats (Fig. a). Finish ofi the same as a pair of
drawers (Figs, b, c).
How to Iron and Fold a Pair of Combinations. -
Iron all embroidery and bands first, then place
the combinations on the table with the neck at the
left-hand side, and iron the upper part down as
far as the waist, smootliing out each piece. Then
fold the legs evenly by the side -seams, and iron
them in the same way as a pair of drawers, first
on one side, and then on the other, and the
sleeves on both sides. Iron the front hems on
the wrong side, do any goffering or crimping
that is required, and tlioy are ready for folding.
Combinations require very careful handling, one
part is so liable to be crushed while another is
being ironed.
To fold a pair of combinations, fold them
double first, bringing the sides of the bodice,
the sides of the legs, and the two shoulders
together. As the back is usually longer than
the front, see that it lies smoothly underneath.
It generally requires a pleat put in it just at the
waist. If the combinations are very wide and
Uke knickerbockers, put pleats in them, two or
three according to the fulness, and continue one
or two of them up the front of the bodice (Fig. 1).
Then place the combinations on the table with
the button-hole side uppermost, double over the
shaped part of the leg by dotted line (Fig. 1), so
as to make them the same width aU the way up,
then double them from the bottom upwards, so
as to make the trimming at the foot come just
below the trimming at the neck (Fig. 2), turn
over and double them again. Lastly, turn back
and see that they look nicely arranged, doubling
back the sleeves if necessary, and separating
the legs so as to show both pieces of embroidery
(Fig. 3).
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
287
How to Iron and Fold a Night-Dress. - A night-
dress is ironed in very much the same way as a
chemise. If there is a yoke, iron it after the
embroidery and bands. Iron the skirt of the
night-dress in the same way as a chemise, leaving
the sleeves to the last. To iron the sleeves fold
the night-dress double lengthways, keep the neck
at the left-hand side and the sleeves towards the
edge of the table, throw back the upper sleeve,
and iron the under one on the top side ; then fold
it back underneath, draw the other one forward,
and iron it on the same side. Next turn the night-
dress so that the neck is at the right-hand side,
and iron the other two sides of the sleeves in
the same way. This way of ironing the sleeves
prevents a^ny crusliing of the night-dress. Crimp
or goffer any frills that reqiiire it, and the night-
dress is ready for folding.
A night-dress raay be folded in two ways, like a
chemise, by the side fold or the front fold, and
the two blf^eves must be made to lie nicely over
the front.
FLANNELS AND WOOLLEN ARTICLES
The term flannels, when used in the following
paragraphs, appUes to woollqn goods of all kinds,
whether knitted, crocheted, woven, or flannel
proper.
The washing of flannels is one of the simplest
branches of laundry work. The rules are few
and easy, but none the less important. Given
the necessary reqiiisites, a tub of hot water,
some liquid soap, a Mttle ammonia and a
wringer, there is no excuse for the flannels not
being soft and elastic ifter washing, but if the
rules are disregarded, the result will in all
probability be hard shrunken garments re-
sembling cheap tweed.
Soap Jelly. - As this is used instead of a piece
of soap, it ought to be prepared first of all.
Take as much soap as will be required, and
cut it down in slireds with a knife. Put it into
a saucepan, and just cover it with cold or hot
water. Allow the soap to melt slowly over the
fire until it is quite clear and without lumps.
Let it melt slowly, as boiling wastes it. Do not
fill the saucepan too full, as soap is very liable
to boil over. The soap may be put into a jar
instead of a saucepan, and melted in the oven.
Any ends of soap raay be used up in this way.
It is better to make soap jeily freshly each week,
as it loses its strength if kept many days.
Remember that soap will taste very strongly
anything with which it comes in contact, so that
the knife and board on which it is cut, also the
saucepan in which it is melted, ought to be kept
for that purpose only.
Any good soap will do ; olive oil is excellent if
it can be obtained, but, failing that, good yellow
soap will serve the piu-pose.
Instead of soap jelly, Lux, or any other form of
shredded soap, can be used, but care should be
taken that it does not contain a quantity of
soda.
General Directions. - The best plan is to wash
flannels either before or after all the other clothes.
The former is better if they can be dried outside,
as they wiU then have the benefit of the morning
air and sun. First shake the flannels, in order to
get rid of any loose dust, and divide them into
lots according to colo\ir and kind - white articles
and those that are least soiled by themselves,
then other hght-coloured articles, such as grey
and drab. Stockings and socks should always
form a lot by themselves, and also dark -coloured
things, or those in which the colour is likely to
run, as reds and crimsons. To wash the flannels
prepare a tub half full of warm water, not too
hot, but just comfortable for the hand to rest in.
To be exact the temperature should be from 35№
to 45№ Centigrade. Then add enough ammonia
to make the water smell slightly. The quantity
will depend somewhat upon the strength of the
ammonia ; from one to two table -spoonfuls in a
tub of water will generally be found ample. This
will soften the water, dissolve the grease in the
flannels, and thus save some of the friction of
washing. Commence with the wliitest and
cleanest articles, leaving the most soiled and
those in wliich the colour is Ukely to run until
the last.
Avoid rubbing flannels except any particularly
soiled parts, or those of a coarse make, as rubbing
inchnes to shrink them ; but squeeze well and
work up and down in the water, drawing them
through the hands.
A httle soap may be rubbed on any cotton
bands. Wlien the first garment is finished,
squeeze it out in the hands, or, better still, put
it tlirough the wringer and proceed with the other
articles in the same way. If not clean after the
first washing, repeat the process, using less soap
and ammonia in the second water. Garments
that are tm-nable, as night-dresses, combinations,
&c., should be washed on the right side in the
first water and on the uTong side in the second,
and then left on the wrong side until dry.
After the light-colomred flannels are done,
the same lather may do for the darker ones ; only,
if the water is dirty or if the lather has dis-
appeared, take entirely fresh water, and use the
second lather of the Ught tilings as the first of
the darker. Never wash in dirty water, and
never rub soap on to flannels. Do not com-
mence too many flannels at one time, as the
sooner they are finished and hung up to dry the
better. It is specially necessary to hiu-ry through
the process in washing coloured flannels.
Rinsing. - \Vlien the flannels are quite clean,
rinse them in plenty of warm water, two or three
times if necessary, until they feel soft to the
touch. Should any soap be left in them, they
will not only be hard and sticky, but have an
unpleasant smell when dried. Never rinse in
too hot or cold water, as either of these would
288
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
cause them to shrink suddenly, and feel hard
like pasteboard. A little blue may be added to
the Itist water in wliich white flannels are rinsed.
When thoroughly rinsed, wring the flannels as
dry as possible. This is best done through the
machine, as it does not twist them. Any rough
twisting would break the fibres of the wool.
Shake them well to raise the " nap " or soft
woolly substance on the surface of the material,
pull into a good shape, and they are ready for
drying.
Drying. - ^Flannels must on no account be
allowed to he about wet. This shrinks them
more than anything. Whenever it is possible,
they should be dried in the open air in a good
wind and not too bright a sun. Faihng this,
dry them in a warm atmosphere, where they will
dry quickly ; but at the same time they must
not be put so close to an open fire or in such a hot
place that they steam. This would be as bad
as putting them into boiUng water. Shake the
flannels, and tvirn them once or twice wliile dry-
ing, pulUng them into a good shape.
Mangling or Ironing. - For the coarser and
thicker flannels it will be sufficient if they are
mangled when nearly dry. Any bands or tapes
must be ironed, and then the articles hung up
again to finish drying. The finer kinds should be
ironed when nearly dry with a rather cool iron.
If they have become quite dry it will be necessary
to spread a slightly damp cloth over them and
iron over that, pressing heavily. Never iron
flannels very wet or the hot iron will shrink them
up, and on no account must the iron be too hot,
especially in ironing coloured flannels. Should
any scorching occur, dip the piece in warm water,
squeeze it well, and rub gently, then wring out
and re-dry, or rub with a silver coin and the
scorch will disappear.
Reasons for Flannels Shrinking. -
1. Soap has been rubbed on them instead of
soap jelly being used.
2. They have either been washed or rinsed in
too hot OF cold water.
3. They have been allowed to lie about wet,
instead of being hung up to dry immediately.
4. They have been dried too slowly.
5. They have been dried so close to an open
fire that they steamed.
6. They have been ironed while wet with a very
hot iron.
Spkcial Articles
New Flannels and Sanitary Underclothing. - These
are better to bo soaked for about half-an-hour
b. fore washing in warm water with ammonia in
it, one table -spoonful to two gallons of water.
Cover the tub over to prevent the heat escaping,
and squeeze and wring them out of this before
the water has time to get cold. This process
draws out some of the sulphur which new flannels
contain, and which would prevent the soap
making a lather, and it also helps to remove
the greeise. Then wash in the same way as
flannels.
Stockings and Socks. - The comfort of stockings
and socks, as well as their durabihty, depends
very much upon their being well washed. The
soles, heels, and toes require special attention.
These should always be rubbed, using the wash-
ing-board and a little soap if necessary. Wash
them first on the right side, then turn and wash
on the wrong, giving them two waters. Fold
them evenly by the seam at the back of the leg
before wringing and drying. When nearly dry
either mangle them or iron them on the WTong
side, and leave them wrong side out ready
for mending.
Red or Crimson Flannel. - ^This is rather
troublesome to wash, and however careful one
may be it is almost impossible to prevent the
colour running. Ammonia should be omitted
from the water in wliich it is washed, and vinegar
should be added to the rinsing water in the
proportion of foui' table -spoonfuls to one gallon
of water. This helps to brighten the colour.
Blankets. - Always choose a fine day for
washing blankets, as it is a mistake to dry them
indoors. First shake them well, and then pre-
pare water with soap jelly, the same as for
flannels, and in the largest tub you have. Put
the blankets in, one or two at a time, move
them up and down in this, squeezing and press-
ing them against the sides ; then put them in
a second tub of the same kind of water to
repeat the process. In Scotland, instead of
being washed with the hands, they are tramped
with the bare feet. They may also be pounded
with a dolly. Rinse well until free from soap,
and then wring. If the wringer is used, let
the rollers be as loose as possible. The colour
of the blankets depends very much upon the
cleanliness of the water they are washed in, so
be particular to change it whenever necessary.
Shake the blankets well before hanging up to
dry, and hang them quite straight and singly on
the clothes -rope in a gentle wind. See that they
are securely fastened and well raised above tho
ground. When dry, take them down, stretch
them well, and rub all over with a piece of clean
rough flannel so as to raise the pile, and then
hang them near a fire for some time, as it is
most important to have them thoroughly
dry.
Shetland and other Shawls. - Wash in the same
way as flannels, but handle more gently,
especially tho finer ones, squeezing them well,
and being careful not to break the threads of
wool. Rinse them in warm water, putting a
little blue into the last rinsing water for white
shawls, and for fine Shetland shawls a little hot-
water starch, about one breakfast-cupful thick
starch to half a gallon of water. Squeeze the
water well out of the shawls, or put them through
a wringer. Avoid twisting them in any way.
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
289
If there is no wringer, after squeezing out as
much of the water as possible with the hands,
beat well between the folds of a towel.
To dry a shawl, spread a sheet on the floor and
pin it tightly at the corners ; pin out the shawl
on this, stretching it well but not over much,
pin out each point, and be careful to keep the
shawl a good shape. Leave it till quite dry, then
unpin carefully, shake it out, and air if necessary.
The Sulphur Bath. - White shawls and flannels
which have become yellow may be wloitened by
putting them in a sulphur bath. Take a deep
barrel, break up about one oz. of rock sulphur,
and put it on an old plate or tin dish at the foot
of it ; sprinkle over the sulphtu* a few drops
of methylated spirits, and then set fire to it.
When the methylated spirits has burnt out and
the sulphur itself is burning, suspend the flannels
or shawls across the fumes. Tliis must be done
just before they are dried. Twist them loosely
round sticks, pinning them here and there to
prevent their slipping down and catching fire,
and place the sticks across the barrel ; or a
wire cage may be used, suspended on the top
of the barrel. Cover over with a blanket or
something thick enough to keep in the fumes,
and let them remain about twenty minutes.
Turn the things once during the time, so that
every part of them gets whitened. Great care
must be taken to have the things raised suffi-
ciently high above the sulphur to avoid all
danger of their catching fire.
A Chamois Leather. - This may be washed
and made to look equal to new if the following
directions are carried out. Prepare a lather with
water and soap, the san.3 as for flannels, put the
leather into this, and squeeze it gently between
the hands. Repeat the process if not clean after
the first water, and until the last soapy water
looks quite clean. Do not rinse, but wring
straight out of the soapy water. Hang up to
dry, rubbing and pulUng it out occasionally
with the hands in order to keep it soft. It may
be smoothed out last of all with a cool iron.
Eiderdown Quilts. - To wash a large eiderdown
quilt is rather hard work, and unless a good
wringer is available and ample drying accom-
modation, it should scarcely be attempted.
But with these conveniences an eiderdown
of moderate dimensions can be very easily
tackled, and the results will be most satisfactory
if the few needful rules are attended to. Before
starting the actual washing shake the quilt, '
to free it from all loose dust, and if there are
any holes, either mend them or draw them
together with a needle and cotton. Then
wash according to directions given for flannel
washing, or when large treat as blankets. If
the coloiu" runs, use the water jiist tepid.
Rinse in an abundant supply of warm water,
adding a little salt or ammonia to the last to
brighten the colour. There must on no account
be any soap left in the quilt. Wring it carefully
through the machine, loosening the tension to
the fullest extent if necessary. The drying
requires special attention. Shake out the
eiderdown ; it is better if two people can do this
- and hang it up, out of doors if possible, in
a good wind and not too much sun, or, fail-
ing that, in a warm atmosphere in the house.
Whilst drying the quilt must be taken down
from time to time and rubbed and shaken, to
loosen the down and prevent it forming into
clots. When dry, it shoiild be quite as soft as
when new.
Swansdown. - Wash gently in warm water,
making a lather with soap jelly, and rinse in
tepid water. Then hold it a little distance from
the fire and shake till quite dry and fluffy.
Flannelette. - Wash in the same way as
flannel, only it will take no harm if rinsed in
cold water. White flannelette may even be
boiled along with cotton articles. Dry and
finish off Hke flannels.
Delaine. - When carefully washed, delaine
should look equal to new. Wash it in exactly the
same way as flannels, and be careful with the
rinsing. Add ammonia in the proportion of
one table -spoonful to one gallon of water to the
last warm water. This will help to brighten the
coloiu". Iron wliile slightly damp, and not so dry
as for flannel. K it is Uned, iron the Hning first.
Velveteen. - Cotton velvets, especially the
light-coloured ones, can be waslaed and be made
to look quite well. Wash in the same way as
flannel with a lather of soap and warm water,
and rinse first in warm and then in cold water.
When nearly dry iron on the wrong side with a
moderately hot iron.
White Coque Feather Boas. - (See p. 318.)
MUSLINS, LACE, CURTAINS, AND NET
The Washing of Muslin. - Muslin requires very
careful treatment, and especially coloured musUn
if it is being washed for the first time. It must
be treated more carefully than ordinary cotton,
and not be pulled out of shape nor stretched, or
it will have a drawn appearance. Being thin
and open in textiu-e it is easy to wash without
any rough treatment. First soak the mushn in
cold or tepid water to take out the dressing or
stiffening ; then wring or squeeze out gently.
Prepare a small tub or basin of warm water,
and make a lather with melted soap in the same
way as for flannels. Squeeze the muslin well
in this, and work it up and do^vn in the water.
In the case of very soiled articles a httle borax
or ammonia may be added to soften the water
and draw out tho dirt. If not clean after the
first washing, repeat the process in fresh soapy
water, using rather less soap the second time.
If washing, is not sufficient to make the muslin
a good colour, it should be boiled (see p. 278).
Then rinse first in tepid and then in cold
wat-er, until every trace of soap has been rљ-
T
290
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
moved. Pure white muslin may have a little
blue added to the last rinsing water. If the
muslin is coloured, and the colours are likely to
run, soak it first in salt and water, allowing a
handful of salt to a gallon of water. Let the water
for the fii-st washing bo just tepid, and proceed as
quickly as possible, putting salt again or a little
ammonia in the final rinsing water. Coloxu-ed
muslin must on no account be boiled.
Clear Starching and Ironing. - All muslin should
be starched wet. If put into the starch dry, it
never looks so clear. Prepare some clear starch
(see p. 2S0), and tliin it to the consistency re-
quired. This depends upon what the muslin is
wanted for, and accorchng to the degree of
stiffness desired. It is imiDossible to give the
exact quantities of starch necessary for clear
starch, as different qualities and makes of starch
require more water than others, but experience
will soon teach this, and at first it will be just
as well to test the stiffness of the starch on a
small piece of mushn. Be sure to have the
starch clear, put the musUns into it, putting in
first those white articles wliich are wished stiffest.
Let the starch soak well through, then wring
well, putting them twice at least through the
wringing machine. In starching coloured
muslins do not let the starch be too hot, or it
will destroy the colours ; and never put things
through the wringer straight out of boiling hot
starch as it ruins the india-rubber rollers. In
thinning the starch, after it has been made clear
with boihng water, cold water may be used, and
that will make the starch a more comfortable
heat to use.
After wringing the musUns shake them well,
smooth out, and let them lie for some time
rolled up in a towel before ironing. Muslin must
be ironed wet. If allowed to get dry, it will have
a rough appearance when ironed. Iron on the
right side to give it a gloss, and the way of the
thread as much as possible. When ironing a
large piece of musUn, keep as much of it covered
over at one time as you conveniently can, to
prevent it becoming dry. Should the muslin
dry before it is ironed, damp it down very evenly
with a wet rubber or towel, not missing a piece,
or it will not look smooth. Embroidered muslin
should bo ironed on the wrong side, to raise
the pattern. Spotted muslin should also be
ironed on the wrong side, unless the spots are
pretty far apart, when it may look better ironed
first on the right side to give the muslin a gloss,
and afterwards ironed over on the wrong to press
out the spots. In ironing coloured musUns do
not use the iron too hot, as it is apt to destroy
the colours.
Muslin trimmed with lace should have the
lace ironed first and then the muslin itself. If
the muslin feels too stiff after ironing, the fault
can be remedied by putting it through water and
then ironing again. Air muslin well after
ironing or it will become limp.
Washing of Lace. - To "do up " lace nicely is
by no means difficult, in fact, it is one of the
most interesting and least fatiguing branches
of laundry work and amply repays the trouble
expended upon it. Care and attention to de-
tails is all that is required. The lace should
first be carefully mended if necessary, and any
tacking or di-awing threads removed.
If very much soiled, soak it for several hours
in a lather of warm water and soap, and allow
one tea -spoonful of powdered borax to one quart
of water. Then squeeze it out of the soaking
water, and wash it in two or three warm lathers
of soap and water. Do not rub it, but squeeze
between the hands and press it well. Any
rubbing or tv\ isting would break the tliroads of the
lace, especially if it were of a fine make. When
clean, rinse well in tepid water and then in cold,
and if time permits allow it to lie for some time
in the cold water to clear it. Pure white lace
may have the last rinsing water shghtly tinged
with blue.
If after repeated washings the lace still has a
soiled look, it may either be bleached in the sun
or boiled. To boil lace put it into a jar or jam
pot, wi'th cold water to cover it, and a little soap
jelly ; stand the jar in a saucepan with boiling
water to reach fully half-way up the jar, put the
lid on the pan and boil for two or tlu-ee hoiu-s.
Care must be taken that the water in the pan
does not boil away.
Stiffening of Lace. - ^There is great difference of
opinion about the stiffening of lace, and many
object to the use of starch on the ground that
it makes the lace too stiff and tends to destroy
it. As a rule, however, a httle starch or other
stiffening is an improvement to most laces, but
the aim must be to get the lace of the same
stiffness as when new and no stiffer. For the
thicker and commoner laces use hot-water
starch. (See p. 280.)
Take some clear starch and thin it down until
it feels like slightly thickened water, or for
heavy laces it may be a Mttle thicker. Allow
the lace to soak in this for some little time, and
then squeeze out gently with the hands. Spread
it out between the folds of a fine towel or old
handkerchief, and eitlier beat it between the
hands to remove some of the starch or pass it
carefully through the wringing machine. Avoid
twisting the lace in any way.
Cream lace may bo put through cream starch
or through starch coloured with tea or coffee
(see Coloured Starches, p. 281), instead of white
starch.
In the case of very fine lace use gum water
instead of starch. This can be used without
any danger of its rotting the fabiic, and the
following are the directions for making it : -
Gum Water. - Take one ounce of gum-arabic
and put it into a saucepan with one pint of
boiling water. Dissolve slowly over the fire,
stirring occasionally, then strain through musUn,
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
291
and bottle ready for use. Allow one table-
spoonful of this melted gum to half a pint of cold
water. Soak the lace in it for half-an-hour, and
proceed in the same way as with starched lace.
To tint the lace use strained tea or coffee with
the gum water instead of plain water.
After wringing p\ill the lace out gently with
the fingers and roll it up with the wrong side
inside. Wrap it in a towel and let it lie for an
hour at least before ironing.
Ironing of Lace. - Take a piece of clean wliite
felt or flannel of tliree or foiu" thicknesses, and
iron the lace over this on the wrong side and
with a moderately hot iron. The points of the
lace must be placed furthest from the edge of
the table, and must be well ironed out. Do not
unroll too much of the lace at one time, and iron
until quite dry. If too stiff rub gently between
the fingers to take out some of the starch, and
iron again. Press weU with the iron, and at the
same time not too roughly, and use the point of
the iron to raise the pattern of the lace. Keep
the lace the same width all the way along, and air
it well before lasdng it away. Very fine lace
should be ironed with a piece of mushn over it,
and never touched with the bare iron. Ironing
too with regard to lace is frequently objected to,
but if carefully done no trace of the iron should
be seen, and the resvilt should be most satis-
factory.
White Silk Lace. - This may be washed in the
same way as any other lace, but should never be
boiled. After rinsing, steep for half-an-hour in
half a pint of hot milk, to which one dessert-
spoonful of gum water has been added. This
will restore the colour. Then proceed as for
other lace.
How to Iron a Muslin and Lace Handkerchief. -
This must be put through the very thinnest
starch or gum water, and wrung in the same
careful way as lace.
Iron the lace first, pulling it out after ironing
to keep it soft, and then iron it over again. Iron
the centre part next. Turn over to the right
side, and wet the muslin part over with a damp
rubber (it is sure to have become dry while the
lace was being ironed). Iron it with a rather
cool iron until smooth and glossy. If necessary,
press out the lace round the edges last of all,
and the handkerchief is finished.
Black Lace. - First brush it well with a soft
brush to get rid of as much dust as possible. If
it is spotted or stained, wash it in tea with a very
little soap jelly added, then rinse it in more tea,
and finally let it soak for about half-an-hour in
prepared tea. Add prepared gum (see p. 290)
in the proportion of one table-spoonful to one
pint of tea. If the lace is quite clean, and you
merely wish to stiffen and renew its appearance,
you may dispense with the wasliing, and simply
soak it in the prepared tea. The gum-arabic
in the ten gives the lace a slight stiffness.
When doing up silk lace, ndd two tea-spoonfuls of
methylated spirits to a half -pint of prepared tea
to give a gloss to the silk in the lace.
After soaking, squeeze the lace out of the tea.
Shake it well, and spread it out between the
folds of a towel or cloth, and either beat it with
the hands or pass it once or twice through the
wringer, then pull it out with the fingers, and
roll up in the same way as white lace.
To iron black lace take a sheet of kitchen
paper, spread the lace out on the smoothest side
of it with the points away from the edge of the
table, cover over with more paper, and iron over
that. Lift the upper pieces of paper occasionally
to see that the lace lies smoothly underneath.
Iron until quite dry, and hang up to air. Black
lace must never be touched with the bare iron ;
there must always be something over it to pre-
vent it getting glazed. Paper not only prevents
the lace staining the ironing sheet, but it also
imparts a sUght stiffness to it.
Curtains. - First shake the curtains well, or
hang them up and brush them down with a soft
brush to get rid of the superfluous dust, then
soak in warm water and borax - one table-spoon-
ful to two gallons of water - for an hour or two.
Squeeze them well in this, and then pass through
the wringing machine.
Wash in warm water, making a lather with
boiled soap. Work them up and down in this,
squeezing and pulUng them through the hands.
If not clean after the first washing, repeat the
process.
Rubbing of all kinds must be avoided, and
it is always dangerous to wash ctu-tains by
machinery. Rinse them first in warm water,
then in plenty of cold. Wring well and starch
them. Pure white curtains may have a Uttle
blue either added to the rinsing water or
mixed in with the starch. If two ounce of
alum dissolved in one gallon of water be used for
rinsing, it will prevent the ciu-tains catching fire
at any time. Starch curtains wet, and have the
starch just a moderate degree of stiffness. For
white ciu-tains, use the ordinary white hot-water
starch ; for cream or ^cru, use starch coloured
with tea or coffee, or cream starch. (See
Coloured Starches, p. 281.)
Curtains ought to be dried quickly ; they are
always better to be stretched and pinned out on
frames for the purpose, or on slieets spread on the
floor. Allow them to remain until almost di-y,
take up and iron round the edges, pressing out
all the points well, then hang up to air. If
there is no convenience for having the ciu-tains
pinned out, partly dry them by hanging them at
a safe distance from the fire, or in a warm room ;
then spread them out on a table, and iron all
over. If curtains are hned, iron the linings first
before stretching and pinning out to dry ; and
when ironing, iron from the middle towards the
sides, so that if there is any fulness it may come
to the edge where it will show least.
Plato and Spotted Net. - Wash in the same way
292
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
as lace, and put through thin hot-water starch.
Iron plain net on the wrong side ; stretch and
pull it out, and then iron again. It must not bo
too stiff, and should look clear. When held up
to the light, the httle holes in tlie net should not
be filled with starch. Iron spotted net in the
same way, only a piece of flannel may be put
under it to make the spots stand out better.
A GeDtleman's Evening Tie. - Care must be
taken in wasliing these to keep them a good
colour. They may bo washed along with laces
or fine muslins, but must not come in contact
with anything dirty. After blueing, and while
still wet, put tliem through clear starch of a
moderate thickness, rather thicker than for
ordinary muslins ; let the starch soak well
through them, and then squeeze out with the
hands. Shake them out well, put them between
the folds of a towel, and pass them through the
wringing machine. To prepare them for ironing
pull them out well, and roll up from left to
right, keeping the muslin the same width all the
way along. If there are hems at the ends of the
ties, notice which is the right side, and keep the
right side inside when roUing. Cover each tie
up as it is prepared, to prevent it becoming dry.
:3>
until all are finished, and it is time to iron them.
To iron one of these ties, take a moderately hot
iron, commence at the loose end of the roll, and
iron carefully along from one end to the other,
unrolUng as required. Iron along several times
until smooth and glossy, ironing on one side only.
Turn over, and it is ready for folding. First turn
down a small piece at the top of the tie, just
sufficient to take in the rough edge of the material,
and press it down with the iron. Next turn up a
piece at the foot of the tie, rather larger than that
at the top, and according to the width the points
are to be (Fig. 1). Be careful to have both ends
alike, and press down with the iron again. Fold
down the top piece again, making the tie the
same width all the way along. Measure the
two points, and if tho^ are exactly alike, iron
along once more (Fig. 2). Fold loosely in four,
and tie a thread round the centre to prevent it
sUpping (Fig. 3).
Chiffon. - Chiffon is washed in the same way as
muslin, and after rinsing, put through very thin
cle xr starch. Bo careful not to twist it in any
way, but enclose it in the folds of a towel, and
either beat it between the hands imtil dry or
put it through the wTinging machine. Do not
let chiffon lie too long before ironing, it dries so
very quickly ; stretch it out to its proper shape,
and iron it on the right side with a moderately
hot iron. If it is a lajge piece, do not expose
too much of it to the air at one time, but keep
the part you are not ironing covered over to
prevent it becoming dry. Pull out occasionally
wliilst ironing to keep it soft, and iron over again.
It must on no account be made stiff, but ought
to fall softly, and just have sufficient stiffness to
prevent it looking limp.
SILKS, PRINTS, AND FANCY ARTICLES
Washing of Silk. - There are many silks wliich
can be washed quite easily and made to look
equal to new, more especially the soft silks, such
as Japanese, Tussore, Foulard, &c., but corded
and glace silks will not be successful, and it is
wiser to have these dry-cleaned.
If a number of different silks have to undergo
treatment, commence by dividing them into lots
- white silks by themselves, light -coloured ones
in another heap, and the darker and brighter-
coloured ones in a third lot apart.
To wash white silk prepare a lather of tepid
water and soap jelly. Squeeze the silk well in this,
and work it up and do^vn in the water. Tako
two or three different soapy waters if necessary
until the silk is quite clean. Never use the
water too hot, as it would make the silk yellow,
and never rub soap on white silk for the same
reason. If the pieces of silk are small, or if they
are silk handkerchiefs, a basin will be quite large
enough for washing in, and then less soap will be
required. At the same time the basin must be
large enough to enable one to work comfortably.
After washing, rinse the silk thoroughly, first
in tepid, and then in plenty of cold water, letting
the water from the tap rush on the silk, or letting
it lie in clear cold water for a short time. It is
most important to get the soap well out of the
silk, or it will look thick and feel hard when
ironed. Pure white silk should have a little
blue added to the last rinsing water, to bring
back its clear bluish colour.
Coloured Silks should be soaked for p short
time before being washed in cold water with a
httle salt in it.
If the colour is inclined to run, this will prevent
it doing so to a certain extent. Silks of different
colours should be soaked separately. Wash the
silks in the same way as white silks, still using the
water tepid, as hot would be more apt to"draw
out the coloiu-s. If the colour comes out very
much, hurry through the process as much as
possible, and do not let the silk lie about between
the different waters, especially where there is a
mixture of colours in the silk, as one colour would
run into the other. It is better to put the
articles as quickly as possible from one water to
the other.
A little salt should be added to the last
rinsing water to help to fix the colour, or with
blues, greens, pinks, and reds a little vinegsu:
sometimes restores and brightens the colour.
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
293
To Put a Gloss on Silk. - After rinsing put the
silk through cold water with methylated spirits
in it, allowang one dessert -spoonful of the spirit
to half -pint of cold water. There is no occasion
to prepare a large quantity of this, but there
must be sufficient to soak the silk thoroughly.
Then squeeze well out.
Wringing and Ironing. - In wringing silk be
most careful not to twist it in any way, as it will
then have a drawn look and a washed appearance
when finished. Squeeze the silk between the
hands, then shake it out, fold it evenly, and
place it between the folds of a towel or piece of
musHn, and afterwards either beat it between
the hands or pass it once or twice through the
WTinging machine. Be careful that there is no
Starch on the rollers when putting it tlirough the
wringer. The silk may he for some time rolled
up in a towel, but must not be allowed to get too
dry before ironing, as to sprinkle it with water
afterwards would give it a spotted appearance.
If it should happen to get dry, it will have to be
put into water again, or damped all over with a
wet rubber. Before ironing, smooth the silk
out well on the table, lay over it a piece of
muslin or old handkerchief, and iron over with a
moderately hot iron. When slightly dry, remove
the covering, and iron with the bare iron, first
on one side and then on the other, to give the
silk e gloss, if the silk feels in the least hard
after ironing, shake it and rub it between the
hands, and then iron again. The silk when
finished shoiold be as smooth and soft £is when
new. Some silks look better without being
glazed. These should never be touched with
the iron, but have something between them and
it. If a very hot iron is put on wet silk, it will
stick to it and crinkle it up. That is the reason
why the silk should be covered when the ironing
is commenced.
In ironing coloured silks do not use the iron
too hot or it will destroy the colours ; and if the
colour is coming out to any extent, spread a
piece of clean cloth over the ironing sheet to
prevent the silk staining it.
A Silk Slip. - Wash according to directions
already given, and after rinsing put it through
gum water in the proportion of two table-
Bpoonfuls of the melted gum (see p. 290) to one
quart of water. Add also a httle methylated
spirits to gum water, and let the silk soak in
this for half-an-hour. This will give a gloss to
the silk and also impart the slight stiffness which
is found in new silk. Squeeze out with the
hands, 'ay smoothly between the folds of a
towel, and pass it tlirough the wringing machine.
Shake out and wrap again in a dry towel, and
allow it to remain a few hours, if possible, before
ironing. To iron the slip commence with the
sleeves, ironing these on a sleeve-board if possible,
but if this is not available iron first the upper
and then the under half of the sleeve, then well
up into the drawings at the top and at the wrist
if tjiere are any. If the sleeve is gathered or
pleated, a Uttle management with the point of
the iron will be required to prevent its being
creased. It is somewhat difficult to give definite
instructions, as shapes and styles vary so much.
The easiest way must always be taken, and that
which crushes the material least.
Next iron the bodice part. Place the neck
at the left-hand side and commence with the
piece lying nearest the edge of the table, and
work gradually along until the other side is
reached. Iron up into any gathers with the
point of the iron, and smooth well round the
armhole. If the silk becomes dry damp it over
with a wet rubber, but do not sprinkle it. When
the silk part is finished, press out any lace or
embroidery on the wrong side and iron any
tapes. If there are any lace frills these may be
goffered (see p. 284). Then dry the silk sUp
thoroughly before laying it away.
Washing of Prints. - When prints are being
washed for the first time, and there is danger of
the coloiu" running, it is well to soak them in
cold water with salt in it beforehand. Allow a
handful of salt to one gallon of water. Wash them
in tepid water, making a lather with boiled soap
the same as for flannels. In fact, the water in
which flannels have been washed, if it continues
clean enough, will be suitable for the washing of
prints and coloured things. Give them at least
two soapy waters, squeezing and rubbing them
gently with the hands until they are quite clean.
Pay particular attention to the most soiled parts.
If there is the least fear of the colour running,
do not rub soap on them. After they have been
washed several times, and when the colour is
ascertained to be fast, the prints may be washed
by the ordinary method for white cotton
articles. Some prints ■"'ill even stand boihng,
but do not attempt this unless it is quite certain
there is no danger of their colour being destroj'ed.
When clean, rinse the prints, first in tepid water
and then in plenty of clear cold water. Add salt
or ammonia, one table -spoonful to a gallon, to the
last rinsing water when the colours are not fast.
Vinegar is good for restoring blues, and ox -gall
for dark colours. The strength of the colour
depends very much upon the quahty of the
material. If the coloiu-s have been properly
mixed before being used for printing, they will
stand soap and water perfectly ; if not, careful
washing will not prevent theni fading. When
water becomes tinged with the colour of the
material that has been weished in it, it must be
poured away at once and not used for anything
else. Goods of different colours wluch are not
fast must be washed separately. After rinsing,
wring them out, fold evenly, and pass them once
or twice through the wringing machine. In all
cases, when washing coloured articles, avoid the
use of soda and washing powders.
Starcliing and Ironing. - ^^^^en coloured things
are only \vished sUghtly stiff, they should be
294
THE WOIVIAN'S BOOK
put through thin clear starch while they are
still wet. Wring them again after starching,
and then either roll up in a towel and let them
he some time before ironing, or hang them up to
dry shghtly. If wished very stiff, let them dry
first, and then starch. Do not use the starch
too hot or it will destroy the colours, and when
ironing them do not use the iron too hot for the
same reason.
Iron on the right side, except in cases where the
pattern is raised or dull and a gloss would be
imsuitable. ^^^aen ironing any fancy article
with sewed work, press out the sewed part on
the wrong side over flannel.
How to Starch and Iron a Cotton Petticoat. - It
is not necessary to starch the whole of the
garment. It will generally be found sufficient
if it is just starched about a quarter of a yard up
from the foot, or to the top of any tucks or
embroidery. The starclung may be done before
the petticoat is hung up to dry. Have a basin
of clear starch, not very tliick ; dip the foot of
the petticoat into tliis, squeeze the starch well
through it, and then pass it once or twice tlirough
the wringing macliine. In wringing put the
band end through first.
Or the petticoat may be starched dry. Sprinkle
it well with water down as far as the tucks or frills,
and then dip the foot part into the stau-ch in the
same way as before. The petticoat being dry,
the starch will not require to be q\iite so stiff.
After starching and wringing, roll the petticoat
up tightly with the starched part inside, and let
it lie rolled up in a towel for some time before
ironing. If the petticoat is made of rather
thick material, it will be as well to hang it up
to dry slightly before commencing to iron it.
To iron a petticoat or skirt of any kind well
it is necessary to have a skirt-board. It will not
only be better, but much more quickly done.
Have the narrow end of the skirt-board at your
left-hand side, and place it in a good hght.
Cover it with a small sheet kept for the purpose,
and pin the sheet tightly underneath, so that
there is no fear of it wrinkhng up. If there is
embroidery on the petticoat, put it on the board
with the wrong side out to begin with, and the
band of the petticoat towards the narrow end of
the board. Iron the embroidery first, pressing
it well out so as to raise the pattern. If there
are two or more embroidered frills, commence
with the lowest one ; iron it first, then turn it
back, and iron the second one, and so on.
When the embroidery is finished, turn the petti-
coat on the right side. If there are frills on it,
iron the plain piece under the frills first, then the
frills themselves, except when they are made of
embroidery, when they already have been ironed.
Iron the plain top part of the petticoat last ;
let it be pretty damp, and iron it firmly, so as
to get it smooth and glossy. If it has become in
the least dry, damp it down with a wet rubber,
or it will have a rough appearance when finished.
If there are full frills, goffer them before taking
the petticoat off the board. If there is more
than one, goffer the top one first, and then the
lower. When finished, remove the petticoat
from the board, iron the waist -band on both
sides and the strings, fold the petticoat neatly
and hang it up to air.
A Princess Petticoat. - Iron the bodice part of
the petticoat as a slip-bodice before putting it
on the board ; then proceed as above.
A Dress Bodice. - This should not be starched
too stiffly or it will be uncomfortable to wear.
It is therefore better to starch it when wet, and
then wring it well. If very tliick, hang it up to
dry shghtly before ironing. If it is made of
tliin material, merely roll it up in a towel, and
let it he for a short tune.
To iron, commence with the Unings - first the
neckband, then the sleeves, and lastlj^ the bodice.
\Vlien ironing the hning of the bodice keep
the neck at the left-hand side ; commence
with the part nearest the edge of the table.
When that is ironed, go on to the next piece,
and so on until the other side is reached. Do
not iron the Unings too dry or it will be difficult
to get the right side smooth afterwards. Iron
all seams out flat. Do the right side of the
bodice in the same order, trying to make each
piece perfectly smooth. A sleeve-board may
be found useful when ironing the sleeves. If
there is any lace, iron it before beginning the
right side of the bodice. Leave any goffering
that is required till the end. Iron round the
seam at the armhole to make it soft and com-
fortable for the arm. Air well, and fold as little
as possible.
Holland. - Wash in the same way as white
cotton articles. A httle tea may be added to
the last rinsing water to preserve the colour.
Or rinse in water in wliich a little hay has been
boiled. After wringing finish off in the same
way as prints.
Chintz. - First shake the cliintzes, or brush
thein with a soft brush, to remove all surface dust.
Then soak them in a plentiful supply of cold water
overnight. If they are very dusty it is a good
plan to change the water once or twice during
tliis time. Then wring out and proceed with
the washing. Although the colours in chintzes,
and especially the better ones, are almost invari-
ably fast, it is wise to take every precaution
against their running the first time they are
washed. Wash chintzes in the same way as
prints, punching and pounding them well in the
soapy water. A little liquid ammonia may be
added to the water if it requires softening. A
second soapy water will generally be found
necessary, and the process of squeezing and
pounding should be repeated. When the
cliintzes appear to be quite clean, rinse them well
in plenty of warm water, and then in cold water
until it is free from soap. Then wring tightly,
and next put them through rather thick starch.
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
295
and hang outside to dry. When quite dry,
starch a second time in hot-water starch, pound-
ing and squeezing the starch well into the
material. Pass tlirough the wringer once or
twice, then shake out and hang up indoors until
dry enough for ironing. Take them down, and
roll up in a cloth until they can be ironed. Or if
there are straight pieces of material, these may
be mangled first. Iron with hot and heavy irons,
finishing off with the polishing iron. Each iron
should be well rubbed on a little bees' -wax before
it is used, as this will make it iron smoothly and
help to give a gloss to the chintz. Finish off
with the polishing iron (see p. 300) if a very high
gloss is desired.
Note. - Instead of starch, size is sometimes
used for the stiffening of chintz. Take a penny
packet of size and dissolve it in half a gallon of
boiling water. When lukewaqn put in the chintz
and let it soak one hour. Then wring out and
hang up until sufficiently dry to iron.
TO WASH GLOVES
Cotton Gloves. - If very much soiled rub them
with soap and let them soak in tepid water for
several hours. Paraffin soap is good, especially
if the gloves are soiled. Then rub well and
squeeze out the dirty water. Wash again with
hot water and soap until perfectly clean. Pay
particular attention to the most soiled parts.
It is sometimes a good plan to put them on the
hands and brush them \vith a nail brush. Rinse
in tepid water and then in cold, adding a httle
blue to the cold water for white gloves. Wring
out and hang up to diy. They may be pressed
with a moderately hot iron when nearly dry.
Silk Gloves. - Wash these in the sanae way as
other silk articles - ^rinse and hang up to dry.
When nearly drj' press with an iron.
Chamois Leather and Doe-skin Gloves. - Wash
and dry according to directions given for chamois
leather (p. 289). Rub occasionally whilst dry-
ing and pull them into shape. The best way
to dry them is to put them on wooden hands
sold for the purpose.
Woollen Gloves. - Wash and dry in the same
way as other woollen articles. Pull them out
well whilst drying or put them on wooden hands.
COLLARS, CUFFS, AND SHIRTS
Importance of having them well Washed. - The
above should be washed according to general
direotioi^s already given (p. 278), and dried
thorougiily. It cannot be too strongly im-
pressed that unless the process of wasliing is well
carried out, no amount of care in the starching
and ironing will make the articles look well. It
is a good plan when washing to give the articles
a good brushing on the washing-board. Collars
especially are so liable to be stained with the
heat of the neck that, u:iles3 they are thoroughly
washed and rinsed, when they reach the stage
of being ironed the iron will only show up the
faulty work. A httle extra trouble taken in
the washing wiU save much future disappoint-
ment. Then again care must be taken in the
drying. Dry in a clean place and dry thoroughly,
or they will not take in the starch properly, and
will be limp when finished.
All articles which are wanted very stiff should
be starched in cold-water starch.
How to Starch Collars and Cuffs. - Before
commencing the process have everytliing at
hand that is likely to be required - a basin of
cold water, a basin of cold-water starch (see p.
281), a plate, one or two clean towels, and a
piece of clean soft rag to use as a rubber.
Mix the starch well up from the foot of the
basin ; put into it several of the collars and cuffs,
or as many as the starch will cover easily at one
time, and let the starch soak well through them.
Squeeze them with the hands in the starch, and
then wring as dry as possible and lay them on
the plate, and do the others in the same way.
Tliey must not be put through the wringing
macliine, or too much of the starch would be
taken out.
Take a collar or cuff at a time ; rub it between
the hands to get the starch well through the
different folds of hnen, draw out straight, and
lay smoothly on the towel. Commence a few
inches from the top of the towel, so that there
is a dry piece to double over. Then proceed
with the others in the same way ; lay them
close together on the towel, but do not put one
on the top of the other.
Do not use the starch when it gets very
low in the basin, but always have a plenti-
ful supply to work with, so that it may not
cake on the articles. When all ai'e starched,
put the basins of starch and water out of your
way, and spread out the towel on the table to be
ready for the collars and cuffs.
Roll up tightly and beat the bundle between
the hands so as to bring the different folds of
material together, and lay aside for an laour at
least before ironing.
Method of Ironing Cufls. - To carry out tliis
process successfully it is absolutelj^ necessary to
have first a really hot iron and one which has
been well dusted, the sides and top as well as the
bottom, and then rubbed on a httle bees' -wax
or candle-end to make it run smoothly ; and,
secondly, a smoothly covered ironing table or
ironing board without any objectionable \\Tinkles.
Do not take out more than one cuff" or collar
from the towel at one time, and keep the others
well covered. If they get dry, they will not iron
properly, and it is impossible to damp them
over, as it would take out too much of the starch.
Spread the cuff out on the table with the wrong
side uppermost, and smooth away all wrinkles
with a paper-knife. If there is any extra fulness
on the wrong side, push it over to tlio edges.
296
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
where it will not be seen. Iron once or twice
across on the wrong side until slightly dry,
then turn to the right. See thet it is quite
smooth before putting the iron down on it ; iron
it well, and then go back again to the wrong side.
Iron slowly at first, until the cuff gets pretty
dry and smooth ; then iron more and more
quickly backwards and forwards, until the cuff
is quite dry and the surface glossy. Iron prin-
cipally on the right side, as it is there that the
most gloss is wished, but iron the wrong side
smooth enough to prevent it feeling rough to
the skin. Lift the cuff occasionally when iron-
ing to let the steam escape, and dry the sheet
underneath it with the iron before laying it
down again.
When several cuffs have thus been ironed,
they may be poUshed with the poUshing iron
(see p. 292), or if not, rounded into shape ^v-ith
the iron and placed negu" the fire to become
thoroughly crisp and dry.
Collars. - These are ironed in very much the
same way as cuffs, first on the wrong and then
on the right side. When there are points to be
turned down, be careful to iron them most on the
WTong side of the collar, as that will be the side
which will show most. When tvirning them
down, make a mark first vnth the side of the
iron, on the right side of the collar, then press
down with the fingers. Do not iron down with
the iron, as it is apt to cut the linen. Then turn
the collar. When the whole collar is turned
over, be careful to notice which is the right side
before beginning to iron. Lift up any tabs there
may be on the collars ; dry luiderneath them
with the iron, and then iron down again.
Eton Collars. - Iron the band first, stretch it
well, and iron on both sides until dry, being
careful not to iron the collar itself so eis to dry it.
Then stand the band up, and make the collar lie
flat on the table. Iron round it slowly - first on
the wrong side, keeping the band well stretched
to prevent any creases where they are joined.
Do not iron too long on the wrong side, or the
right wiU become so dry that it will bo impossible
to iron it smoothly. Turn and iron the right
side until dry ; smooth and then turn with the
fingers.
A Front. - Iron the neckband first on both sides
until dry, or if there is a collar attached, finish
it off before commencing the front. Iron the
front on the right side only, and it is not necessary
to iron the wrong ; and if there is any fulness,
smooth it away towards the sides before com-
mencing to iron. Stretch the neckband well
when ironing towards the neck to prevent
ertases. Then work the iron quickly up and
down the front to get a good gloss. (For
Polishing of Collars, &c., see p. 292.)
A Gentleman's White Shirt. - Have the shirt
perfectly dry, and keep it on the wrong side until
it is about to be ironed. Commence with the
cuffs ; place them evenly together, and gather
them up in the left hand. With the right hand
wet the cotton part just above the cuffs with
cold water, as this will prevent the starch from
spreading up the sleeve where it is not required.
Then dip the cuffs into the starch, and squeeze
the starch well through them. Starch right up
to the top of the cuffs, but do not let the starch
go any further. Wring out tightly, and rub
with the hands in the same -n ay as other cuffs.
Next starch the front. Place the two halves of
it evenly together, and gather them up in the
hands, commencing at the back of the neckband,
and gathering down to the foot of the front.
Wet carefully down the side of the front to
prevent the starch spreading on to the body of
the shirt, at the same time being careful that
no drops of water fall on tlie front itself, which
might cause blisters when ironing. Tlien dip
the fronts and neckband into the starch and
squeeze the starch well into them. A mere
dip in and out again is not sufficient ; the starch
must be forced tlirough the different layers of
Unen. Wring out and rub between the hands.
After starching spread the sliirt on the table with
the front uppermost and the neck nearest the
edge of the table. Smooth out the front and
give it a light rub over with a clean dry cloth or
rubber. Fold it double, the neck towards thn
bottom of the sliirt. Place the sleeves across
the back, Bmoothing out the cuffs, and double the
shirt again so that the sleeves are inside. As it
is now folded, sprinkle it well with water on both
sides, roll tightly up from one end to the other,
and keep covered over until it has to be ironed.
A shirt should lie for an hour at least before
being ironed, but must not be allowed to become
too dry.
To Iron a Shirt. - First turn the shirt on to the
right side, and place it on the table with the
front uppermost and the neck towards the edge
of the table. Turn the yoke forwards, so that it
lies flat on the top of the back of the shirt, and
iron the yoke first on the right side, then turn
it back, slip the iron inside, and iron it on the
wrong. Next iron the neckband, first on the
wrong and then on the right, ironing it until
quite dry. Finish it off well, particularly at the
button-holes, and be careful not to iron down
on to the front of the shirt. When these are
done, fold the shirt down the centre of the
back, keeping the front apart from it. Iron the
back on both sides, always keeping the neck at
the left-hand side. Open out, so that the whole
of the back lies uppermost on the table, and
iron round the back of the armholes, and this
finishes the back.
Next fold the shirt double lengthways with the
front inside to prevent its becoming dry, and place
it on the table with the sleeves lying out to right.
Throw back the upper sleeve, and commence
with the under one. Iron the cuff first on the
wrong and then on the right, in the same way
as other cuffs, then run the iron up inside the
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
297
cuff and iron the thick part over the drawings.
Iron also the ■svrong side of the hems at the
opening of the sleeve, and turn the cuffs into
shape. Smooth out the sleeve, and iron first
on one side, ironing well into pleats or gathers
at the top and bottom, and put a pleat into the
sleeve itself if necessary. Tiarn down the shirt
at the neck so that the other side of the sleeve
can be ironed, but do not change the position of
the shirt itself.
Then iron the second sleeve in exactly the
sanme manner, the ironed sleeve being turned
back and underneath the shirt out of the way.
When both are finished, place the shirt on the
table with the front uppermost and the neck at
yoiir left-hand side. Arrange the back in pleats,
and press them down with the iron. Then iron
the breast of the shirt ; slip a shirt-board up in
between the back and the front, without dis-
arranging the pleats down the back. Stretch
the upper half of the breast on to the board first,
drawing the other half as much out ot the way
as possible. Tuck the cotton part of the front
underneath the board, so as to keep the breast
firm. Smooth away all wrinkles on the breast
with a paper-knife, pusliing any fulness over
towards the sides. Hold the neck firmly with
the left hand iron slowly up the centre, then
gradually towards the sides. As it becomes
smooth, iron up and down more quickly, lifting
the breast occasionally to let the steam escape.
Keep stretching it well with the left hand to
prevent any wrinkles forming round the collar.
Do the other side in the same way, and then hold
both firmly together, and iron quickl;^ and fiunly
up and down the breast to get a good gloss.
When the breast is finished, slip out the
shirt-board and arrange the cotton part of the
front smoothly on the top of the back, putting
a pleat down the centre where required. Damp
it over if it has become dry, and then iron it
smoothly. If the shirt has to be polished with
the polishing iron, do so now ; but if not, fold it.
To Fold a Shirt. - First put a pin in the neck
to keep the two sides together, then tvirn it over
so that the back is uppermost and the neck at
the left-hand side. Turn the sleeves down the
sides of the back (Fig. a), noticing that both are
turned in from exactly the same place on both
sides. Turn over them a small piece from the
sides by dotted hne 1 (Fig. o) ; then turn over
again from dotted line 2 (Fig. a), so that both
sides meet down the centre of the back. Stretch
them rather tightly, so that the front will have
a curved look, and pin them firmly together
(Fig. b). Hang up to air, and then fold so that
the front only shows (Fig. c).
A Lady's Shirt. - After it is rinsed put it
through rather thin clear starch and hang it
up to dry. This gives a slight stiffness to the
body part of the sMrt. When quite dry starch
the cuffs and collar in cold-water starch, being
careful to wet previously just above the
cuffs and below the collar with cold water
to prevent these parts becoming stiff with
the starch. If there is a plain band down
the front, and this is Hked stiff, dip it also
in the cold-water starch. Rub the starch
well in and then smooth the parts over
with a clean rubber. Sprinkle the dry
parts of the shirt with cold water and roll
up tightly. Let it lie for an hour or two
at least before ironing.
To iron the sliirt, open it out and turn
it on the right side. Commence with the
collar, stretch it out, and iron first on the
wrong and then on the right side. Next
iron the yoke on both sides and then
proceed to the sleeves. Iron these in the
same way as the sleeves of a gentleman's
shirt, or slip them on to a sleeve-board.
Use a small iron for running up into the
gathers at the top, and try to avoid creases. To
iron the bodice place the shirt on the table with
the neck at the left-hand side. Commence with
the front lying nearest the edge of the table,
smooth it out and iron it well. Next iron the
back and then the other front. Finish off by
ironing the parts round the armholes, also the
hems on the wrong sides and any strings. The
cuffs may now be polished if wished, then turn
them into shape and hang the shirt up to air.
To Fold the Shirt. - First pin the two sides
together at the neck, and pleat the front if
desired. Then lay the sleeves down the sides
of the back the same as in a gentleman's sliirt
(Fig. a) ; fold them upwards again so that the
cuffs show above the neck, and pin them into
position. Fold over the sides so that they meet
down the centre, and pin them together. Fold
quite loosely ; any pressing would crush the
sleeves.
INFANTS' AND CHILDREN'S CLOTHING
Preliminary. - In washing infants' clothing it is
always better to keep the articles separate, and
298
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
not to mix them with other clothes. Special
attenyon must be given to them, and in dressing
they require very dainty handhng.
The water used in washing must be changed
as soon as it becomes in the least degree dirty.
Neither soda nor wasliing powders must on any
account be used, as they are irritating to the
skin.
Baby's Robes and Robe Skirts. - If time permits,
allow these to soak for an liour or two in tepid
water before washing. When about to wash,
wring them out of tlie soaking water, and wash
in water as hot as the hand can bear. It is best
to wash these carefully with the hands. Being
fine, they will not bear being rubbed on a board
or with a brush. Rub soap on them, and pay
particular attention to the most soiled parts.
If the material is fine, use melted soap (see p.
287). Go methodically over every part ; wash
first on one side and then on the other, and give
them a second soapy water if they are not clean
after the first. Then boil if necessary, and
afterwards rinse, blue, and wring (see p. 278).
Give them throughout very careful treatment,
as the least unnecessary strain is apt to tear
them or cause holes.
After wTinging, put through the thinnest pos-
sible starch and wring again. Tlien dry partially,
roll up in a towel, and let them he a short time
before ironing, but not long enough to become
dry.
To iron a robe skirt cover a skirt-board with
a fine sheet, and put the skirt on it with the
wrong side out. Iron any lace round the foot
and embroidery on this side, pressing it well with
the iron to make the pattern stand out. Then
turn, and iron the rest of it on the right side. If
any of the muslin part has been dried with the
ironing on the wrong side, damp it down before
ironing it on the right. If there are any tucks,
iron them first, stretching them out well before
ironing, and getting them quite free from creases.
Iron the plain part of the skirt from the bottom
upwards, and keep drawing it towards you as you
go along. Do not let it stick to the ironing-
sheet, but keep lifting it up from time to time.
Should it get dry before the ironing is finished,
wet the end of a towel and damp the muslin over
lightly with it. The muslin must on no acf;ount
be ironed dry, or it will have a rough appearance,
instead of looking smooth and glossy.
The skirt of a robe is ironed in the same way.
Iron the embroidery on the front of the bodice
before turning the robe on to the right side.
After turning, finish the skirt of the robe before
doing the bodice. If the bodice has become dry,
damp it down before ironing. Iron as much
of it as possible on the board, using a small iron
so £is to get into the corners well. Any frills
that cannot be done on the board may be left
until the robe is taken off. The embroidered
flaps or side-pieces on the front of some robes are
better left until the end and ironed off the
board, the mushn part of them on the right
side, and the embroidery on the wrong. Do
the sleeves whichever way is found easiest.
Sometimes they are wide enough to allow of the
iron being slipped inside them, or they may be
managed more easily by putting a roll of flannel
inside and ironing over that. Goffer or crimp
any frills that require it ; iron out any strings,
and then air well.
A Piquee Pelisse. - Wash according to general
directions (see p. 278), and starch while wet in
tliin hot-water starch. Allow it to dry sUghtly
before ironing.
Iron all embroidery first on the wrong side,
over flannel, until it is qviite dry. The piquee
itself must be ironed on the right side to give it
a gloss. Commence with the cape, iron it from
one end to the other, and have the coat part of
the pelisse turned back from under it so that
the cape itself Ues single on the table. Then
iron the sleeves - ^lay out one at a time smoothly
on the table, and iron first the upper and then
the under part. Then lay the pelisse on the
table with the neck at your left-hand side, tiu"n
the cape back, and iron the coat itself. Iron
the piece nearest to you first, smooth out each
piece as you go along, always keeping it lying
the one way, and draw the coat towards you as
you get it ironed. Press well with the iron to
get a gloss. Double by the shoulders and sides,
and finish off round the armholes ; also iron the
hems on the wrong side. Then finish by goffer-
ing any trimming that requires it ; air well, and
fold loosely.
Stays. - When washing these, place them on
the washing -board and use a brush to brush
them with. Being made of firm material, they
will bear a good rubbing. Boil them if necessary,
and after rinsing put them tlii'ough thin hot-
water starch. On no account make them stiff.
Allow them to dry slightly, and iron first on
one side and then on the other until quite dry.
Stretch well while ironing, as the quilting is
inclined to pucker. Hang up in a warm place
to air before laying away.
Pinafores. - Those should always be slightly
starched ; if left quite limp they will not keep
their appearance any time, and will very soon
soil. Muslin pinafores should be put through
stiffor starch than those made of diaper and
other fancy white material, and must always bo
starched wet. Diaper and other kinds of pina-
fores may be starched either wet or dry, and
the starch should be quite thin. Pinafores
made of muslin and other thin material should
be wrung well and rolled in a towel for some
time before ironing. Those made of tliicker
material may be slightly dried and then rolled
up.
When ironing pinafores always commence
with the embroidery, pulling it out well and
ironing very carefully. The rest of the pinafore
is as a rule very simple to iron. Always keep
GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK
299
the top of the pinafore at the left-hand side, and
iron the material single when possible. If the
pinafore is joined up the back, iron it double -
first the front and then the back, or iron it on a
skirt-board. If there are tucks along the foot
of the pinafore, stretch them out well when
ironing to prevent them dragging. Iron as
much as possible with the thread of the material.
A small iron must be used for getting into all
gathers. Always finish off well round arm-
holes and iron out all strings, and run round
hems on the wrong side. If there is a full drawn
front on the pinafore it sometimes looks well
crimped. Goffer or crimp all frills that require
it, and fold neatly.
Knickerbockers. - After washing these, wring
and let them dry slightly before ironing. On
no account must the frills be starched, as the
stiffness would irritate the tender skin of young
childi'en. Iron the frills first, then the waist-
band on boih sides. Keep the waist at the left-
hand side when ironing the legs, and iron first
the front and then the back of them. Iron
whichever way crushes them least. There is
such a variety of shapes that it is difficult to
give definite rules. Iron well into gathers, and
hems on the wrong side. Crimp the frills, and
then fold neatly.
Flannel Binders, Pilches, and Barracoats. - Wash
and dry these according to general directions
given for washing and drying flannels (p. 287).
They should, when possible, be dried in the
open air ; it gives them a sweeter and fresher
smell. When nearly dry, iron them all over
with a cool iron to make them smooth and
soft. Iron all strings and bindings, and be
most particular to air well.
Knitted Socks and Bootees. - Wash these care-
fully in a lather of warm water and boiled soap,
and rinse in warm water (see p. 287). If wliite,
a little blue should be added to the last rinsing
water. Pay great attention to the drying of
these, as they are Uable to shrink. Wooden
blocks of different sizes are to be had for stretch-
ing them ; they are put on to these while still
wet, and allowed to remain until dry. A
simpler block may be cut out of a piece of card-
board the exact size and shape reqviired, and
in some ways this is even better than wood, as
in this case pins can be put through the cardboard
and the sock stretched in length as well as
breadth. Failing to get either of these, pin
the socks out to their proper shape on a
covered table or board.
Knitted Jackets and Drawers. - For the washing
of these, see p. 287. When drying them, see
that they are pulled out to a proper shape before
hanging up. If they are not very thick, it is
almost better to pin them out on a covered table
or floor, and allow them to remain there until dry.
Wincey and Serge Dresses. - These are both
washed in the same way. Shake well before
washing to free tliem from all superfluous dust.
Soak them in warm water with a Uttle ammonia,
and let them remkin from twenty to thirty
minutes. This softens them and makes them
easier to wash. Wring them out and wash in
the same way as flannels (see p. 287). Pay
particular attention to the most soiled parts.
Rinse thoroughly, adding a httle blue to the
last rinsing water for white or blue serge. Hang
up to dry with the wrong side out, and if drying
indoors turn and shake occasionally during the
process. When nearly dry, iron with a cool
iron. Wincey especially requires a good deal
of pressure bestowed on it. Navy blue serge
should be ironed on the \\Tong side only ; it
would not look well to glaze it.
Smocks. - Smocking must never be pressed
with the iron, but only steamed. Iron the rest
of the garment first, leaving the smocking to do
last. It takes two people to steam it. Let a
moderately hot iron be held with the bottom
upwards by one, while a second holds the smock-
ing firmly on the top of it, and dj-aws it slowly
over the surface of the iron until it becomes
quite dry. The heading round the top of the
smocking should be ironed with a small iron,
and if it is a starched material, afterwards
goffered.
Boys' Sailor Suits. - These require very careful
washing. They are as a rule made of drill or
jean, materials which are both very hard to wash.
Being of a fu-m texture, they will stand a good
deal of rubbing and a brush on the wasliing-
board. They may be boiled after wasliing if
there is no fear of any colour in them running.
After rinsing, starch wliile still wet. The starch
must not be stiff, as the material itself is of
a stiff nature. Wring well, and dry sUghtly
before ironing. Be careful to choose a very
clean place for drying, and dry with the wrong
side out.
To iron the trousers turn them on the right
side, smooth them out on the table, with the
waist at your left-hand side and the fi'ont upper-
most. Iron the fronts of the two legs first, but
not too di'y ; turn over and iron the back, then
iron over the fronts again. Iron bands and
hems on the wrong side, and press hard with the
iron to get a good gloss.
In ironing the jacket, commence with the
collar, and if this is of navy blue or scarlet, iron
it on the wrong side only, or on the right w4th
sometliing laid over it ; it should not be glossed.
Next iron the sleeves on the right side, first the
upper and then the under half. In doing the
jacket itself, keep the neck at the left-hand side,
commence with the piece nearest to j'ou, and
iron from one end to the other, smoothing out
each piece as it is reached. Then finish off at
the shoulders, round armholes, and the inside
of the jacket. Blue hnen suits must not be
polished with the iron, but either ironed entirely
on the wrong side or ironed with sometliing over
the material.
300
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
SUk Dresses, Pinafores, and Veils. - For the
washing of these, see p. 292. After a silk dress
is wrung, starch any lace there may be on it in
very thin starch, and hang it up to dry for a
short time. Iron the lace first on the wrong
side, then any linings or double parts on the
wrong side. Next iron the sleeves with a small
iron, first the upper and then the under part,
ironing well into the gathers. If the dress is
smocked, leave tlio smocking to the last (see p.
299). If there is a bodice, iron it before doing the
skirt. Do the skirt either on the sldrt-board or
by lajnng it double on the table, and ironing first
the front and then the back. If the silk is \ery
wet in parts, iron with something over it to begin
with, to prevent the iron sticking to and scorch-
ing it. When the silk is embroidered, press out
the embroidery on the wrong side after the silk
is ironed. It is not necessary to gofTer the lace
on a silk dress, as it looks better falling softly.
Goffering would be out of place unless merely
for a narrow frilling on the neck.
Silk Pinafores are ironed in the same way as
others (see p. 298). The lace on them may be
slightly starched, but do not goffer it.
Silk Veils should be pinned out on a covered
table or board wliile still wet, and allowed to
remain until dry. If they feel in the least
degree stifl after they are removed, rub gently
with the fingers to soften the silk again.
Blankets. - These being small may be washed
in the same way as white flannels (see p. 287).
Dry in the open air if possible, and then air before
the fire.
POLISHING
When about to polish, have ready at hand a
polishing board, a basin of cold water, a piece of
soft rag, and a well-heated polishing iron. Let
everything be particularly clean and free from
dust.
To polish cuffs, take one at a time ; place it
flat on the polishing board, dip the clean rag into
the cold water, and then lightly wet the sui-face
of the cuff. On no account must it be made too
wet, or it will be apt to blister ; and bo careful
that no drops of water fall on it. Hold the cuff
in position with the left hand, and run the
poUshing iron up and down it with the right.
There are different kinds of polisliing irons ;
the one like diagram on p. 274 is to be recom-
mended. It is of a good weight, and has a
rounded surface at the one end only. The
opposite end is held up while in use, and the iron
is swung backwards and forwards from the WTist,
the rounded sm-face doing the pohshing. Other
kinds are to be had which are held flat while in
use, and are worked quickly backwards and
forwards on the surface to be polished.
Polishing at first gives the linen a streaky
appearance, but it must be continued until the
surface is evenly glossed all over. The iron must
be changed when it cools. When all the cuffs
are polished, turn them into shape. Pohsh
collars in the same way, only be particular that
you polish the proper side of those that are
turned down, or have turned-down points. In
polisliing a shirt, slip up the polishing board
without crushing either the front or the back.
Polish the breast first, working the iron up and
down the length of it, and not across. In all
cases remember to wet the surface slightly
before polishing. When the breast is finished,
draw the board gently out, lay it across the shirt,
place the cuffs on it, and polish them. Turn the
cuffs into shape, and fold the shirt (see p. 297).
Different kinds of glazes are to be had for
polishing linen, which are \ised instead of the
polishing iron. They do not of course give such
a high gloss, but by many people are preferred.
Directions for using them are generally given
with the different kinds. Some are added to the
starch, while others are in a liquid form and are
rubbed on the surface of the linen when ironing.
Polishing irons should be treated with great
care. Their surface is made of polished steel,
and if it once gets roughened it will not dn such
good work.
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
Without indulging in an inordinate passion for dress, which is hkely to result in unjustifiable ex-
travagance beyond her means, it is the duty of every woman to dress suitably and well, according to
her position in Ufe. Appearances count for a great deal in all phases of society, and in the matter
of dress, as much as in anything else, appearances must be studied. The question of lack of means
is often put forward as an excuse for general untidiness, dowdiness, and want of taste, but no woman,
however limited her pm'se, need degenerate into what is contemptuously termed a " dowd." True,
it is necessary to " cut one's coat according to one's cloth," and it needs not a httle pinching and
contriving in some cases to be able to do this successfully, but the result will always be found to be
well worth the trouble taken in achieving it. In addition to the first and all-important question of
good taste, such tilings as durability, general utility, and style have to be considered, and last but
not least, the best way to take care of clothes in order to preserve as long as possible their pristine
freshness. All these important phases of the dress question are fully dealt with in this chapter in a
manner wliich it is hoped will be especially useful to those women for whom ways and means are all-
important considerations.
The Art of Dressing Well. - Dress is an invalu-
able aid to good looks, yet, strange as it may
seem, comparatively few women have acquired
the art of dressing well. The reason for this
is not hard to seek. If fashion sets the seal of
her approval upon some particular style, every
woman rushes bUndly in its wake. No matter if
the stylo be one that is only suitable for the tall
and the slender, it is ei .braced indiscriminately
by the short and the stout, whilst, with a hopeless
lack of the sense of what is fitting, the portly
dowager of fifty wiU be seen to deck herself in a
mode only becoming to a young girl of eighteen.
There are some women who dress well in-
stinctively. These realise that careful dressing
can do a great deal towards enhancing their
good points ; wliilst bad dressing can materially
nullify any pretence to good looks they may
possess. To dress well is to dress becomingh'
and suitably. For instance, however pretty a
smart light silk gown may bo, it would look \m-
suitable in the street on a wet and muddy day.
However trim and well fitting a na\'y bhie tailor-
made suit, it would look woefully out of place
at a smart garden party. Elaborate silks and
laces are not the wear for the seaside be it said ;
whilst the rough-knitted jersey and very short-
pleated skirt and high boots of the Scotch
Highlands would present a most incongruous
appearance if worn out of doors in town. A
woman will exclaim, " \Vhat bad taste," if she
sees a man wearing brown calf boots with a tall
hat and frock suit, j-et the same woman may
think nothing of wearing a light flower-betrimmed
hat of the picture variety with a tweed coat
and skirt.
The Well-dressed Woman. - Suitability and
good taste should be the aim of all those who
■wish to acquire the art of dressing well. The
woman who dresses well plans her dress from the
point of view of her own indiv-iduahty. She no
more thinks of sla\Tishly following the dictates of
fashion than she thinks of absolutely ignoring
them. But she wisely adapts the fashion to
suit herself, and does not try to adapt herself
to suit the fashions. There is rarely a style
but can be adapted in some way or other to
suit individual needs. It is in rushing to the
extremes of fashion that the woman of the
present day more particularly errs.
How to avoid Dowdiness. - On the other hand,
the well-dressed woman does not allow her
appearance to become dowdy. If her purse is
Umited, she will adopt that style of dress that
does not date quickly in preference to the most
marked styles of the current season.
Simplicity should be the cliief characteristic
of the toilette of the woman of small means.
Chiffons, laces, and other such ephemeral fabrics
should be discarded for the more useful tailor
suit for everyday wear. She should always be
careful to avoid choosing very bright colours,
no matter how well they suit her. ^\^lcro a
woman who can only afford one now goN\Ti, for
instance, chooses a strawberry-coloured cloth -
it will look very well when it is new ; but her
friends in time will tire of seeing her in it. Con-
stant wear will emphasise the fact that she only
has one dress, and when this has to do duty, say,
for two or tlu-ee seasons, she runs the danger of
becoming known as " the woman in the straw-
berry-coloured dress." On the other hand.
301
302
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
navy blue, black and other dark materials, seldom
" date " a dress to the same extent as the
brighter colours. Black perhaps is par ex-
cellence the most economical w^ar. The black
costume may be varied with drossy blouses for
dressy occasions, simpler blouses for every-
day wear, whilst varying little touches in the
way of new ornamental buttons and different
trimmings do wonders towards renovating a
black indoor dress which has seen better days.
For evening wear black or white are the most
sensible colours for the woman who has but
one evening gown in her wardrobe. Such
colours as pink or blue are very pretty when
new, but constant wear of a coloured evening
dress serv-es decidedly to emphasise the limita-
tions of the wardrobe of its wearer.
Style and Colour. - Just as there are some
women who dress well by instinct, there are
others who seem to possess an instinct for
dressing badly. Tall thin women will appear
in gowns cUnging so tightly to their forms as
to accentuate their tliinness. In addition, the
ultra-tall woman will as often as not dress her
liair very high on the top of her head, and
weax hats remeirkable for the abnormal height
of their crowns. To make matters worse, the
trimming on her gown will run in straight lines
from almost the neck to the feet, and very
often also one or more of her tailor-made dresses
will be built of striped materials which will
serve to emphasise both her undue thinness and
her extreme height.
Short stout people, on the other hand, will
garb themselves in the brightest of colours. Their
gowns will as often as not be heavily trimmed,
the trimmings running horizontally across the
dress, ser\nng effectively to " cut the height "
of the wearer. Very often large patterned
materials and huge checks are worn, whilst
tailor-mades are liberally adorned with buttons
the size of half-crown pieces. It should be
remembered that all striped materials and the
trimmings laid lengthways on a dress add to
the height. They should therefore be avoided
by the ultra-tall women. On the other hand,
narrow stripes are becoming to the stout woman,
whilst checks and large -patterned materials add
to the breadth of her figure, and should there-
fore be avoided. A stout woman should never
wear white or other light colours ; these only
serve to accentuate her stoutness, whilst dark
materials tend to give her a much slimmer ap-
pearance. A style of dress at present in vogue
with a front panel running from neck to hem is
becoming to most stout figures, but the panel
roi,uires careful cutting. It should not be too
broad, and should be made to taper as narrowly
as possible at the waist-line. All unnecessary
fulness in the way of pleats at the hips should
be avoided ; at the same time the dress should
not be made to fit too closely to the figure. The
skirt should stand out well at the hem, the ful-
ness at the foot serving to make less prominent
the width of the hips.
A stout woman should never wear a very
short skirt. Hor walking-skirts should only just
clear the ground - if she attempts the very short
" trotteur " skirt, which is becoming to the
graceful figure and neat ankles of the young girl,
she will make herself appear even stouter than
she is. The skirt of the moment which clings
tightly round the feet at the hem is particularly
unbecoming to the stout woman. Her dress
should be plain and well cut. Gathers and
elaborate pleating should be avoided. On the
other hand, the extra fulness afforded by pleats
and gathers should always be made use of
wherever possible by the thin woman in the
plarming of her gowns. She should avoid all
severe harsh lines in dress, as these would only
serve to emphasise the angularity of her figure.
It may be said with truth that the very severe
tight-fitting gown should only be adopted by
women of perfect proportions.
Fashions within the last year seem to have
been designed only to suit the very slim ; the
fashionable figiu-e, in fact, at the time of writing
is slender, and many have been the devices
resorted to by possessors of plump figures to
acquire the fashionable contour. All sorts of new
corsets have been designed \¥ith the object of
aiding the fair wearers in this direction. Some
of these models have, in fact, been carried to
almost ridiculous extremes. In length they
reach almost to the knees, and one cannot help
wondering how the wearer can bend or even sit
down when encased in these latest outcomes of
fashion's vagaries.
The wise woman who is endowed with un-
fashionable plumpness does not seek to reduce it
in this manner. She chooses her corsets, indeed,
with the view of improving her figm-e, knowing
that there are many good makes of corset which
will achieve this result without imposing upon
her the penalty of general discomfort entailed by
the species above-mentioned, but she docs not
strive to appear in gowns which in design and
construction are only suitable for the schoolgirl.
She knows that gowns of the " Pensionnaire "
type are not for her, and adopts a style of dress
more suited to her figure in accordance with
the principles already laid down for her ob-
servance. La Mode of late seems to have
devoted herself entirely to the needs of the
jcune fille. A vogue for simplicity has come
upon us ; gowns are not only simple in design
and construction, but they are characterised by
that degree of extreme simplicity which, though
most becoming to sweet seventeen, is trying,
to say the least of it, to more mature forty.
The woman who has attained the latter age
must therefore refrain from adopting the exag-
geratedly 8irr>plo styles. Her dress may be
simple without being childishly so, and it is in
this respect that the greatest discrimination
DKESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
303
must be exercised. In all periods of history the
best-dressed women have been those who made
fashion walk hand in hand with common sense,
and to no period does this apply with greater
truth than to the present day.
Choice of Colour. - Many women are apt to
nullify the effect of a really smart dress by
selecting a colour which does not suit them.
A few general hints in regard to colour may
here be given. It may be taken as a general
rule that where the tints of the hair and
eyes are repeated in the costume, the effect
is on the whole successful. Thus blue-eyed
people rarely look so well as in the different
shades of blue, more especially the shade
that matches their eyes. A fair girl with a
delicate pink and wliite complexion looks well
in the various soft subd\ied tones of pink. The
choice of colours for the girl whose hair is of
the colom- of ripe corn, and whose complexion
is of a pink and white prettiness, is very varied ;
white, pale blue, pale pink, black, dark greens,
red, dark brown (where she has brown eyes), all
suit her well. The red or aubiu-n -haired woman
must be particularly careful in her choice of
colour, and her dress should not be so much
regulated by the colours themselves as by the
varying shades of the different coloiu"s. Green,
for instance, is considered an ideal colour for the
red-haired woman, but it must be either a very
dark green or a very faint delicate shade
bordering on the tint known as eau de nil.
Bright greens are altogether unsmtable. Brown
may be worn by the red-haired woman, more
especially if she has brown eyes. In other cases
it is not so successful, i.lthough it always serves
to bring out the pretty shades in her hair. The
fact remains, however, that a red-haired woman
to look her best in brown should have brown
eyes. Black velvet is pretty generally becoming
to the red and the auburn-haired, but the
ordinary dull black cloths prove trying, and
should be relieved by touches of white where
possible. A red-haired woman always looks
well, however, in a low - cut black evening
gown, the black serving to accentuate the wliite-
ness of her skin. Dark-haired women with
creamy or sallow complexions look their best in
bright colours such as bright reds, yellows for
evening, &c. When they wear dark dresses,
these should always be relieved by touches of
bright colour. Cream suits this style of com-
plexion better than white. Dark-haired women
with delicate fair sldns and pink and white com-
plexions, however, require softer and less decided
shades ; white, dove greys, delicate pinks,
heliotrope are eminently suited to tliis stj^le,
and if the eyes are violet, the shades of violet
and mauve are particularly becoming. Grey is
a colour wliich should be chosen with great dis-
crimination. It has a very hardening effect upon
the faces of people with very pallid complexions.
As a rule, light greys should bo relieved with
black or white. Certain soft shades of grey are
particularly becoming to elderly people. Youth
and age, it should be remembered, are not the
least important factors in deciding the colour
of a dress, and the sensible woman who is ad-
vancing towards middle age will not err in
affecting the style and colours which became her
in her youth.
Very often a colour which proves unsuitable if
worn as a whole dress will be perfectly becoming
if a touch of it only appears upon the dress.
For instance, though a girl with red hair should
not wear a whole pale blue dress, a tie, a waist-
belt, or a sash of pale blue upon a white dress
would suit her quite well. White frilling or lace
on the collar and cuffs of a dress is becoming to
almost every woman, though many could not
wear a whole white dress. On the other hand,
touches of bright colovu* on a dead white dress
serve to make it fitting wear for a sallow dark-
haired person who would look simply ghastly in
unrelieved white. It is in the satisfactory
blending of coloiirs, on the whole, that success
in dress may be achieved. The very texture
of the material itself should be studied. For
instance, for evening wear red-haired and pale
fair-haired women should wear the soft dull
materials such as cliiffons, ninons, net, soft silks,
voiles, &c., in preference to satin, which is too
hard for this type of prettiness, although it is
most becoming to youthful -looking fair girls
with very pink and white complexions and to
the dark-haired types. Wliere the complexion
is washed out, anaemic, or pallid, white satin
especially should be avoided.
OUT-DOOR COSTUMES
One thing to keep in mind in regard to tho
selection of an out-door costume is this : -
If the costume has to do duty for an extended
period, by all means let it be good in quahty.
It is better to pay a fair price for a " tailor-made "
at the start than to have a dress " run up " any-
how by some indifferent dressmaker on the
strictly economical plan. Tliis procedure nearly
always turns out false economy in the long-run -
what with the outlay upon maldng, material,
lining and extras, the cost of the di-ess amounts
to nearly the same as that of a tailor-made.
The cut is more often than not indifferent,
the fit unsatisfactory ; and, last but not least,
the costume in nine cases out of ten \\ill often
be altogether lacking in style. In many in-
stances the dress will prove such a faihu-e that
the unfortunate wearer in sheer desperation
will lay it aside, and, notwithstanding the fact
that she can ill afford it, will be induced to buy
a new gown by effecting some economy in
another direction. It is false economy, therefore,
to buy indifferent clothes at the outset. A
woman should always have one good costimie to
fall back upon. It is not alwaj-s necessary that
304
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
this should be made to measure. The cult of
the ready-made tailor gown has to-day reached
the level of a fine art. For the trifling sums
of from 5s. to 10s. 6d. these gowns are altered
by expert fitters to suit indi\'idual figiu-es. Of
course those with what is known as " stock
figures " will get the most satisfactory results,
as very often a ready-made gown will fit them
exactly without the sUghtest need for alteration.
These fortimute people have the best facilities
for practising economy in dress in that parti-
cular way. It is always ad\'isable to go to a
good class firm for costvmies of the kind. The
very cheap " ready mades " are bad investments.
Very good " tailor mades " may now be had for
three and a half to four guineas, but if tlie
costume is bought at sale time it may often be
had for much less.
SUMMER DRESSES AND THE HOME
DRESSMAKER
A woman who is an adept with her needle will
be able to eke out her dress allowance in a much
more satisfactory manner than her sister who is
less gifted in this way. Such a woman on a
dress allowance of £12 a year will be able to
dress much better than a woman whoso allowance
runs to more than double that amount. The
summer season in particular is a time of triumph
for the home dressmaker. Nothing can look
more suitable in the hot weather than dainty
linen, cotton, and muslin frocks. \Vlien it is
remembered that Unens and cottons may be had
for an outlay of a few pence a yard, it will be
seen that the cost of a gown made of these
materials will be very small. A dainty cotton
frock can be made for as small an outlay as 5s.
upon the material.
One material which has been much in vogue
of late years is particularly economical for
summer wear. It is known as " mercerised
lawn," and has the appearance of fine Indian
muslin, only with a softer and more cUnging
effect, and is to bo had in white and all the most
delicate shades. To crown its other advantages
it is of double width, and may be purchased for
from 6d. to Is. per yard. The material has the
additional advantage of washing particularly
well, having no tendency whatever to shrmk
in the wash. With the aid of a good paper
pattern, a very pretty dross, good enough for
any drossy occasion, can be fashioned out of
this material by the clever homo dressmaker at
a cost of from between six or seven shillings,
including trimmings, buttons, and other accos-
Borieq. If the home dressmaker, in addition to
being able to make herself dainty frocks of the
kind, is able to save washing bills by laundering
them herself at home, then she is fortunate
indeed, and she will always be able to hold her
own in the smartest company as a woman who
dresses prettily and well.
(For the making of dresses from paper pat-
terns, see Homo Dressmaking.)
(For washing cotton dresses at home, see
p. 293.)
EVENING DRESS
In selecting an evening dress due regard
must be paid to the occasion for which it is
required. A ball dress, for instance, would be
quite out of place if worn at a dinner-party or
at the theatre, whilst a dinner dress would
hardly be suitable at a ball. Yet many women
show a remarkable lack of teiste and discrimi-
nation in this direction. Dresses worn at big
balls and dances and receptions must neces-
sarily be more elaborate than those worn at
dinner-parties or at the theatre, excepting of
course where the dinner-party precedes some
large ball or some important reception.
Ball Gowns should always be of light and
deUcate colours, the soft, flimsy materiaLs such
as chiffon, ninon, and not being the prettiest
and the most graceful for those occasions. The
lighter and more ethereal -looking the fabric the
more successful will a ball dress be. The corsage
of a ball gown is of course cut low at the neck,
and the sleeves are usually quite short, some-
times mere straps or bands of the material or
its trimmings doing duty as such. The gloves
worn with these gowns are extremely long,
covering the whole of the arm ; and shoes and
stockings are worn to match. White is the
ideal colour for the ball dress of a young girl,
more especially where she is a debutante.
DeUcate shades of pink, pale blue, primrose,
eau de nil, pale green, are also effective. Orna-
ments of some kind are usually worn in the
hair. Dainty wreaths of flowers, choux or bands
of ribbon, in accordance with the fasliion of
the moment, being particularly suitable for the
wear of young women and girls ; jewelled combs,
sequin ornaments and jewellery being worn by
the elder women.
Sensible people have realised that long
trailing dresses are not conducive to the enjoy-
ment of dancing, hence for the moment fashion
has decreed that dance dresses should be
short and without trains.
Dinner and Theatre Dresses. - Dinner dresses
are not so elaborate as dance frocks. Sleeves
are worn to the elbow as a rule, and the corsago
is not so d6collet6. In some cases demi-toilette,
consisting of a gown with transparent yoko
and sleeves, may be worn. This style is particu-
larly suitable for theatre wear, more especially
for elderly people. As a rule, ladies occupying
the stalls, boxes, or dress circle of a fewhionablo
West End theatre in London, and our other
large towns, wear low-necked dresses ; theso
are not, however, of the nature of ball dresses,
and " demi-toilette " is every bit as appropriate.
At the opera full evening dress is de rigueur,
and the display made by tho handsome gowns
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
305
and costly jewellery worn by the lady members
of the audience at the opera during the season
is of itself a sight well worth going to see.
The General Utility Evening Gown. - An even-
ing gown for a woman of small means has to be
a more or less adaptable garment which can be
made to do duty upon widely different occasions.
A gown of this kind should never be pronounced
in style or in colour. The material should be
of some endurance. The various satin -faced
materials, such as " satin charmeuse," which
have been so much in vogue of late, are ideal
fabrics for a general utUity gown of the kind
described, as they wear exceedingly well. The
dress should be smartly cut and finished. A
little extra expenditure on the initial outlay
will be well worth while. The neck should of
course be cut low, and the sleeves short for
wear on very dressy occasions ; but the gown
should be furnished with two separate detach-
able sets of lace or net guimpes and sleeves.
One lace guimpe could be cut low in the neck,
only not so decollete as the gown itself, to
form a little lace chemisette coming above the
d6colletage ; the sleeves of this guimpe should
be of elbow -length. The second guimpe shovdd
be cut high in the neck, the sleeves being either
to the wrist or to the elbow. A woman will
thus be provided with a good evening dress
which can be adapted for very dressy, moder-
ately dressy, or demi-toilette occasions ; and
upon each and all of these occasions she will
have the satisfaction of knowing that she is
well and suitably dressed.
Evening Wraps. - Evening cloaks, coats, or
wraps are necessai-ily indispensable adjuncts
to evening dresses, but they must of course
be chosen with due regard to the circumstances
of the wearer.
A woman who lives in the suburbs, for
instance, and cannot afford the outlay on a
hired carriage, taxicab, or cab to take her to
the theatre or to a dance in town, must neces-
sarily go there by train or bus. In these cir-
cumstances a white or other Ught-coloured
cloak would be useless. It would very soon get
dirty, and as light coloiirs show up the dirt very
quickly, it would probably have to be cleaned
after having been worn only two or three times.
For the woman so situated a coat of some
darker colour should be chosen. It need not
necessarily be too dark. There are several
shades of art blue and art green, for instance,
which are most becoming as well as most useful.
The cloak should be lined with white or sonie
other light colour for the protection of the light
gown underneath.
How to keep Gloves Clean when Going Out. -
Light evening gloves are also apt to become
verj' quickly soiled when travelling by train or
omnibus. The wise woman will provide herself
with a pair of cotton or woollen gloves (according
to the season), of a size larger than those she
usually wears and slip them over her other
gloves whilst in the train. She will, of course,
take them off when she reaches her destination,
and the gloves underneath will be found to be
quite clean and fresh, whereas if she had not
taken this precaution, they wotild have un-
avoidably become soiled.
Hats are seldom worn with evening dress, but
when a woman has to either walk or go by
train or tram to the theatre, it is advisable that
she should have some Mght head -covering,
not only to ob\date the risk of catching
cold, but also to keep her hair tidy. A light
crocheted woollen " fascinator," which is the
name given to a kind of hood especially designed
for evening wear, is admirably suited for the
purpose, and may be purchased for two or
three shilhngs. Silk, chiffon, and lace fascinators
are more expensive, some of these dainty trifles
being extremely elaborate and ornamental in
design. A pretty lace scarf, or a white crepe
de chine motor scarf, would also be iiseful, only
the scarves must be fresh -looking and clean,
as many women spoU the effect of extremely
dainty toilettes by wearing either a soiled scarf
or a very bedraggled piece of chiffon over the
hair. Fascinators are dress accessories well
within the scope and skill of the home worker,
and many a dainty little head-covering may
be fashioned at home from one or two lengths
of lace, chiffon, or silk with very little trouble.
DRESS FOR THE WOMAN WORKER
The women workers in our leirge cities are
apt to err most lamentably in regard to their
dress in office hours. Girl typists will be seen
dressed in light flviffy dresses with short sleeves
and no collars, their dress Uberally adorned with
imitation jewellery, to say nothing of the
ubiquitous row of pearls worn round the neck.
Such a dress is thoroughly out of place in a
business office, and the girl who adopts it will
handicap herself a great deal when it comes to
the question of seeking for a new post.
Appearances go for a great deal in business,
as much in fact as under any other conditions
of life. An employer -will as often as not put
down the girl who is tawdry in her appearance
as apt to be tawdry in her work, and the post
\vill therefore go to a girl who, though perhaps
she may be less efficient as a worker, will create
a more favourable impression by being suitably
dressed. A neat coat and skirt costume is
the ideal dress for the city worker, with an
alternative in the serviceable costume recently
suggested by the manager of one of London's
largest drapery establishments as the most
suitable wear for the woman in business. This
consists of a neat Norfolk costume, made of
good face cloth or serge for winter wear, and of
butcher-blue linen or other similar material for
summer wear, worn with a neat turn-down
306
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
linen collar. Tlie costume is a particularly
dainty and effective one. In addition it looks
trim and thoroughly in keeping with business or
office surroundings.
COATS AND WBAPS
Tlie rain coat is rapidly taking the place of
the ubiquitous mackintosh for wear in wet
weather. It lias this advantage, it can take
the place of an ordinary coat to perfection, and
for this reason it is especially useful on showery
days. Mackintoshes do not look well except
when worn diu-ing an actual downpour ; a
brilliant burst of sunshine will make them look
woefully out of keeping. Very often the
wearer will not wish to discard her coat when
the weather clears up, as she will most probably
have donned her oldest garments in preparation
for a very wet day. It is in these circumstances,
then, that a rain coat is especially useful. Very
good rain coats may be had in serviceable
tweeds, covert coating and other materials,
also in the material known as " Cravenette."
Motoring Coats. - It is useless to make an
ordinary coat and skirt costume do duty for a
long motor drive, such as from London to
Brighton, for instance. A special motor coat is
absolutely necessary. Very useful tweed and
cloth motoring coats may be had at moderate
prices. The coats are usually semi-fitting, and
rainproof in most instances.
UNDERCLOTHING
Women are at length beginning to under-
stand that good well-cut underclotliing is
essential to the neat fit of a dress, and in this
respect what may be termed a regular revolu-
tion in regard to underwear has set in. One
ofter hears elderly people sighing for the good
old days when clothing was regulated aa much
by common sense aa by the style of the moment.
We doubt if such days ever existed - they cer-
tainly did not in regard to underclothing. It
is interestiiig to read the remarks of fashion
writers in nooks dealing with subjects of dress
published about twenty years ago. One writer
loudly decries the underwear of the time from
the point of v'iew of health. She points out
that clothing to be hygienic must bo light, and
speaks in no measured terms of disapproval of
the practice of cumbering the body with heavy
garments a.s a protection against cold. She
also deals with the increased bulkiness of the
figure caused by the fastenings of those under-
garments which were worn drawn into a very
substantial fulness by means of tapes round the
waist. " The weight of the garments should not
fall from the waist," she complained ; " all
hygienic garments should be designed so that
the weight falls from the shoulders." This
writer proved a veritable prophet in her genera-
tion, for all sensible women nowadays plan
out their underwear with due regard to the
principles she advocated. We doubt if the
change is due to the improved present-day
knowledge of the principles of hygiene, rather
may we ascribe it to the vagaries of " Dame
Fasliion," who at present decrees that the
fasliionable figure must be slim. Bulkiness of
underwear is naturally incompatible with slim-
ness of contour, and hence for the nonce feishion
and hygiene are walking hand in hand.
Sensible people no longer cumber their bodies
with heavy underwear ; light woollen com-
binations and a warm flannel petticoat are all
the extra clothing they adopt in very cold
weather. Sometimes they discard the petti-
coat altogether, and wear neatly cut and warmly
lined serge or satin knickers under their walking
costumes. Corsets are also now built on
hygienic lines ; the wasp waist is happily a-
thing of the past, and we hope that it will remain
buried in obli\don.
There are several makers of woollen under-
wear who vie with each other in the lightness
of texture combined with the maxinaim of
warmth to be found in the material of which
their goods are manufactured. Silk, and mix-
tures of cotton and silk and wool and cotton, for
winter underwear are also to be had in several
makes, and make satisfactory winter wear for
those who cannot stand the all-woollen garments
next their skin. Ready-made imder -garments
may be had in almost every size. All the
leading firms are making a special feature of
" out sizes," by wlrich is meant sizes to fit
women with ultra-stout figures. The good
needlewoman can now fashion her own under-
clothing with a great measure of success.
Patterns of all styles and sizes of underwear may
be had from almost all the ladies' fashion papers
in liberal profusion ; the veriest amateur can
cut well-fitting garments from them, as they are
extremely simple in design as a rule, and can
easily be adapted to suit individual require-
ments.
Lingerie. - Fastidiousness in regard to " lin-
gerie " is characteristic of the present day, and
every woman is anxious that her underwear
should bo as neat and as dainty as possible.
Formerly longcloth and calico were considered
the materials " par excellence " for " lingerie "
under -garments, and strength of make was held
to be of much more importance than good cut
and daintiness of design. Nowadays, the ten-
dency of the modern woman is to go to ex-
tremes of luxuriousness in the fineness and
daintiness of her underwear, and to ignore as
far as possible the question of serviceability.
This is as much a mistake as to make dura-
bility an apology for lack of daintiness, more
especially whore both good qualities can be
so admirably combined. It is advisable to
avoid all cheap makes of underwear character-
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
307
ised by the elaboration of their trimmings.
It stands to reason that the material of these
must be of the very cheapest to allow of such
elaborate ornamentation, and in most cases the
garments will not survive a few visits to the
laundry. When you have only a very little
money to spend in tliis direction, the plainer the
article the better and the more serviceable will
it turn out to be. Fine longcloth, batiste, lawn,
nainsook are the favourite materials for under-
wear. Perhaps a good nainsook is the most
satisfactory in regard to the combined qualities
of daintiness and good wear. Dainty laces are
used as trimmings on all the finer garments,
which are also embellished by means of fine
hand-embroidery and the finest needlework.
Fabtdous are the sums of money spent in this
direction. Some very pretty and at the same
time inexpensive iinderlinen may be had in
the plain hand-embroidered work of the Irish
and French peasants ; night-dresses, chemises,
drawers, combinations worked in this manner
are sold at very moderate prices. Ribbons are
now largely worn with under -garments. They
usually are slotted tlirough rows of embroidery
or lace beading. Although ribbons may be
purchased very cheaply nowadays, the fashion
tends to be a somewhat extravagant one, as they
seldom wash satisfactorily. Messrs. Cash of
Coventry, however, have supphed a need in
this direction by their washable ribbons for
underwear which come out Uke new from the
hands of the laundress. These ribbons can bo
obtained from any drapers at prices varying
from Is. Id. to 33. pe'' dozen yards, according
to width. The colours are warranted to be
perfectly fast. For trimming home-made
under -garments, the plain hem-stitched and lace
frillings sold by this firm are also remarkable
for their good quality and durabihty ; beading,
open-work insertions, and edgings of all kind
particularlj' suitable for trimming dainty lingerie
may be had at the most moderate prices. All
Cash's trimmings are sold in twelve-yard lengths
at prices varying from Is. the piece and upwards.
Underskirts and Petticoats. - At one time a silk
petticoat was deemed a luxury only within the
reach of the most affluent. Nowadays weU-cut
silk underskirts for wear with dressy toilettes
may be had at prices well within the reach of
the average woman's purse. In this connection
fashion is apt to change to a certain extent.
Sometimes rustUng silk underskirts are worn ; at
other times, as at the present moment, under-
skirts of .-joft silk or satin are more fashionable.
White lace-trimmed and embroidered petticoats
are the correct wear with summer muslins and
hnen dresses. These may be had cut in the
princess style at very moderate prices.
The Princess Petticoat. - One of the most note-
worthy outcomes of the change of fashion in
regard to underwear is the " princess " petticoat.
This garment., which consists of a camisole and
underskirt in one, has come to stay, for it is so
comfortable that few once having worn it will
discard it.
It is made to fit closely to the figure, and all
unnecessary fulness is done away with.
In regard to hngerie petticoats of this kind
they are very \iseful for wear with inusUn and
other summer dresses, forming a complete under-
dress of themselves, and thiis doing away alto-
gether with the necessity for any kind of dress
lining.
Another style of petticoat which has per-
fection of fit as its leading characteristic is
that known as the " Leewig " petticoat. These
petticoats consist of close-fitting cotton, stock-
ingette or spun -silk tops with detachable
flounces. The flounces fasten easily to the
petticoat by means of patent fastening devices,
and the effect on the whole is neat in the extreme.
Flounces of every description may be had to
go with these petticoats, ranging in price from
2s. lid. to £5, 5s. The petticoat tops have the
additional advantage of wasliing perfectly, and
thus from the point of view of hygiene, as well as
from the point of view of economy, a petticoat
of the kind is a good investment. The Leewig
petticoats are the patent of ^lessrs. Cliarles Lee
and Co., Wigmore Street, London, and are
made to measure free of any extra charge.
FURS
Tlie wear of furs has become so ubiquitous
that there is scarcely a woman nowadays who
does not possess some piece of genuine peltry,
however small, cherishing it as one of her most
valuable possessions.
In choosing fvu-s the woman of limited means
will reqiiire to exercise no little care and dis-
crimination ; skins which will not last more
than a season will be of no use to her, however
inexpensive they may be. Her object should
be to obtain inexpensive yet good furs with
good wearing properties.
Bearskin is a fiu- which should at once find
favour with the woman who has to practise
economy in regard to her purchase. It is not
only one of the least expensive of furs, but it
is also one of the most dtu-able, and, as far eis
the dark bearskin is concerned, one of the most
universally becoming. The hght bearskins are
not much worn, for the reason that on account of
their shade they do not suit many people.
Marmot runs bearskin very close in regard to
both wear and economy in the original outlay.
Squirrel is also an economical fiu-, its soft grey
tints being especially becoming to dark-haired
women, and fair women with very bright and
clear complexions. This season, however, there
is every indication of a rise in price of squirrel,
owing to the vogue for grey furs which was one
of the features of the ^-inter season of 1910.
Opossum is a good diirable and very inexpensive
308
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
fur, chiefly used for trimming coats, sdt hough it
was also a great deal worn last season in the
form of ties and muffs. Beaver is a useful fur
which shows signs of coming into fasliion again,
although it has not been much worn during the
last few seasons. Moleskin is an inexpensive
and becoming fur, but it has the disadvantage
of wearing badly. This is also the case with one
of our most beautiful and at the same time one
of our most fashionable furs - Fox. Black Fox,
which is the most generally becoming of the
fox varieties, being perhaps the worst in this
respect ; the smoked fox wearing better than
either the black, silvered, or the white. The
vogue for silver fox was specially marked last
season. Skunk is a beautiful soft fur, somewhat
after the appearance of dark bearskin, but much
more expensive.
The black woolly furs Astrachan and Persian
Lamb are very durable. Neat little ties and
muffs of astrachan are quite moderate in price,
but as the fashion at present inclines to very
large stoles and enormous pillow muffs, a set of
the kind in either of these fiu-s would be fairly
expensive.
Sable is one of the most expensive of furs,
but at the same time it is one of the most durable ;
a good sable tie will last for years. The Russian
sable is the best and the most costly. Next
comes the Canadian sable, and last the Kolinsky,
which is much cheaper than either the Russian
or the Canadian varieties.
A new fur called Fisher was introduced last
season. This is very Uke sable in appearance,
with the exception that the skin contains a few
white hairs. It may be purchased for the
same price as Canadian sable. Mink is a good
wearing fur, somewhat darker than sable.
Stone Marten also wears well. Chinchilla is a
soft deUcate fur of a pretty grey shade. Ermine,
the Royal fur, is one of the most beautiful and
becoming of furs, though delicate and costly.
Sealskin is a fur which will always be fashionable
for those who can afford it. Undoubtedly the
most beautiful of furs, its soft sheeny appearance
is unrivalled, and there are few whom it does
not suit. Its price is, however, prohibitive to
many - a good long sealskin coat being rarely
obtainable for less than £100. There has Ijeen
a great vogue during the last season, however,
for sea) musqueush and seal coney, both of
which, more especially the seal musquash,
resemble the real seal in appearance. Seal
coney is the loss expensive of the two, and has
been largely worn both in the form of coats
and stole and muff sets.
Ihe woman with little money to spend on
furs cannot do better than purchtise a good bear-
skin, marmot, or squirrel set. A fairly good dark
fox stole and muff may be had for £7, Vs., but
the bad wearing properties of the fox are usually
against it. It is better to purchase all furs
from a good furrier, as necessarily the q'lality
of the skins will depend to a great extent upon
the establishment at wliich they eire bought. It
is impossible to give anj' exact figures as to the
prices of furs, as these are continually fluctuating.
In reg8u:d to imitation furs, wliito foxahne or
imitation fox sets may be purchased for a sum
of about £2, 2s. Their appearance is very good
indeed, the white foxaline resembling the real
fur very closely, and in this respect it is superior
to most other imitation furs.
It is always better to send good furs to a
furrier to be cleaned in preference to sending
them to an ordinary cleaner. Furriers remodel,
reline, and renovate furs at very moderate prices,
and often store them for the winter free of charge,
if they are entrusted with work of the kind.
(For Care of Furs, see p. 315.)
HATS, BONNETS AND VEILS
In her headgear, even more perhaps than in
her dress, is a woman inclined to go astray
when slavislily following the dictates of fashion.
Thus the grotesque spectacle presented by a
diminutive specimen of womanhood wearing a
hat of immense proportions, the brim being
so large as to completely hide her neck at the
back, is only too common at the present day.
Cartooniats may hold her up to ridicule, humor-
ists may launch their wit at her expense - but all
without avail. Her hat is of the latest fashion,
so she feels quite happy, and goes her own sweet
way.
A woman of taste shuns all extreme styles in
millinery as in dress. Whatever the fashion of
the moment, it is always open to modification,
and headgear of at least a moderate style is
always to be had. A woman has no excuse
therefore for making herself grotesque.
One important thing to be remepibered is
that headgear should always be as light as
possible. Heavy, stiff, ill-ventilated millinery
is most injurious to the health of the hair.
Although on the cold snowy days of winter
there is nothing more becoming than the
toque of fur, fur as a head -covering is not
hygienic, more especially as fur toques are apt
to fit very closely to the head. Young men
become prematurely bald because their head-
gear is stiff and unhygienic, and unfortunately
for thorn the styles of their hats vary but little
in their essential points. There is such an
abundance of choice in a woman's millinery
that she need never choo.se a hat which by
reason of its heaviness and its very close fit is
unhygienic. A woman's millinery should there-
fore always be chosen with due regard to the
all -essential quality of lightness. Heavy head-
gear if persistently worn will in time caiise
injury to the best head of hair.
A woman's hat should always be in keeping
with her dress. Thus a neat toque or turban
or a medium -sized hat plainly trimmed is thg
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
309
ideal hat to wear with a " tailor-made." Simple
picture hats are siiited to light cotton and
muslin dresses, whilst more elaborate hats of
all shapes are worn with smart afternoon
toilettes, and all very dressy gowns for dressy
occasions. A picture hat would be quite out
of place on a motor drive or on a steamboat,
be it said. For motoring distinctive motoring
millinery should always be worn. Motor hats
and bonnets are not now the hideous things
they were when motoring first came into fashion.
Indeed, a pretty face seldom looks prettier than
when seen under a becoming motor hat (or
bonnet) and veil. For wet weather special
waterproof silk hoods are made to cover the hat
or bonnet. These may be had at a price of from
10s. 6d. and upwards. Motor veils are also largely
worn round the headgear on board ship and on
stormy days at the seaside ; indeed, there is no
fashion introduced within recent years that has
proved more useful than the motor veil. Both
when motoring and on board ship, or on gusty
days at the seaside, it serves the double purpose
of keeping the hat on and keeping the hair tidy.
With a motor veil well tied round one's hat, a
gusty day is robbed of most of its discomfort to
the feminine sex in the way of hat-pins falling
out, hats blowing off, and tresses becoming
loosened and falling about one's face in not
always " picturesque " disorder. (For Home
Millinery, see p. 432.)
Bonnets. - The bonnet, in the true sense of the
word, has had its day. Formerly it was prac-
tically de rigueur for a woman as soon as she
married to discard the youthful -looking hat for
the more sober -looking bonnet, as a sign that she
had attained the dignity of matronhood. Nowa-
days the old-time bonnet is only worn by elderly
people, with the addition perhaps of the more
old-fashioned matrons who still adhere to the
traditions of their youth. Now and again there
come signs of the reappearance of the bonnet
in the millinery world, but these only herald
the tentative advent of some picturesque styles
taken from similarly picturesque periods, styles
as a rule only becoming to very young faces,
and for this reason usually short-lived.
For elderly people the present-day styles in
bonnet wear are a great improvement upon
those formerly in vogue. Dainty silk and lace
creations are to be had trimmed with jet,
ribbon, ostrich tips and other appropriate trim-
mings. The art of millinery is employed to-
wards making them as youthful -looking as is
compatible with the age of their wearers.
Veils. - Veils are not now the all -important
adjunct of dress they were in former years. At
the present day their wear is practically optional,
limited to those whom they suit. The style
of wearing veils is materially altered. A few
years ago they were worn quite closely round the
face, whilst now they are allowed to fall loosely
from the hat, and when worn with large picture
hats are becoming to most faces. The style is
a great improvement from the point of view of
the eyesight ; the tightly skinned veil was most
trying to the eyes, and even now large patterns
and spots should be avoided. Dainty veilings
may be had in many makes, the plainer the
pattern and the finer the net the better for the
eyesight. Large patterns on a veil are always
injurious. When taken off, a veil should be
pxilled out smoothly, and wound round a piece
of cardboard before being put away, or else
rolled up carefully, the ends being kept even.
When veils are to be worn with very large hats,
their adjustment is much simplified by making
a narrow hem at the top, and running very
narrow ribbon through this. In this way the
veil can be made to gather upon the ribbon,
which is drawn tightly over the brim of the hat
and tied at the back. Veils may now be worn
to fall loosely over the chin, a fashion which much
simpUfies their arrangement.
GLOVES, BOOTS, AND SHOES
" One can always tell a lady by her gloves and
by her shoes " is a familiar saying, and, like
most familiar sayings, it has a very substantial
amount of truth. To be " down at heel " is
perhaps the worst form of shabbiness, and the
woman who goes about with holes in her gloves
advertises the fact that she is lacking in that
refinement and neatness of dress by which a
gentlewoman is always characterised. There
are many false economies habitually practised
by various households ; but of all false econo-
mies, economy in footwear is apt to become the
dearest in the long-rtm. Cheap boots are
usually made of hard unyielding material ;
they are not only answerable for corns, bunions,
blisters, and other similar ills, but their soles
are little more effective than brown paper in
resisting damp and wet - consequently many a
severe chill and illness can be traced to their
wear. In addition they lose their shape very
quickly and require to be soon renewed. It is
better to pay a good price for all boots and
shoes, and the result will be much more satis-
factory in the long-run. There should not be
much difficulty in getting ready-made boots to
fit nowadays, when half and even quarter sizes
are to be had. The Americans have been
largely responsible for this welcome innovation
in regard to size, and American boots and shoes
are, as a rule, neat and well fitting. One particu-
larly good American make of boot, known under
the trademark of the " Sorosis," has become
very popular. The Sorosis boots and shoes are
well cut and keep their shape very well. They
may be had for the modest price of 16s. 6d., and
are good for any amount of hard wear. Several
good makes of walking shoes can be had for
from 10s. 6d. and upwards. Tlie cult of the
" small " foot is not as universal as it was a few
310
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
years ago. The greater participation by women
in outdoor exercise, games and atliletics is in
a large way responsible for tliis, and women
seldom nowadays are seen to attempt to squeeze
their feet into shoes one or two sizes too small for
them. A woman with a naturally large foot
would, however, do well to always wear her
boots with toe-caps, as these diminish the
apparent size of the foot ; she should never
wear brown and other hght-coloured boots or
shoes, as they have exactly the opposite effect.
Boots with very high heels and pointed toes
sliould be avdided.
Evening Shoes are worn to match the dress.
They are usually of leather, suede or satin.
Satin shoes are the most fasliionable at the
present moment. Gold and Silver leather
evening shoes are also very smart, and can be
worn with almost any ev'ening gown. (For
painting white shoes gold or silver, see p. 318.)
Goloshes. - Rubber goloshes are very useful to
slip over the boots and shoes in wet weather, in
order to keep the feet perfectly dry. They may
bo had as complete overshoes or half goloshes ;
the latter cover the sole and toe-cap of the boot,
only fitting over the heel by means of a piece
of broad elastic.
The prices of goloshes vary slightly with the
price of rubber ; usually 2s. lid. will buy a pair
of goloshes, whilst half goloshes may be had for
even less.
Snowboots. - Snowboots are not much worn in
England ; they should, however, form part of
the equipment of every woman who conteinplates
going to Canada or other colonies where the
snowfall is great. For wintering in Switzerland
and other similar places their wear is also
essential. They are made of cloth, usually
trimmed with fur, and have india-rubber soles.
They are slipped over the boot in sno^vy weather.
They are not costly, and it is always useful to
have a pair by for winter in case of an un-
usually hf!avy snowfall.
Creaking Boots. - Well-made boots rarely
creak ; the creaking boot or shoe is usually one
of an inferior quaUty. Standing the boots over-
night in salt and water, using just sufficient cold
water to cover the soles after rubbing a little oil
well into the leather, has often remedied this
annoying defect. If this treatment does not
do good at first, repeat for two or throe nights.
Gloves. - Kid and suede gloves are those used
for smart wear. In the summer silk and cotton
ones may bo worn with light dresses. The
fashion in gloves varies to a large extent.
Som<^times very long elbow-length gloves are
won. in the daytime. At other times they are
only worn to cover the hands and wrists. Their
length of course depends altogether on the
length of sleeves to gowns which is the fashion
of the moment. The feushion of short sleeves
to gowns is always liable to recur at regular
intervals, more especially for the summer sepson.
and glove -makers have therefore to carefvilly
watch the trend of fashion befoi-e planning
their stock. For evening wear, long gloves are
nearly always in fashion - the long white suede
and kid gloves being always appropriate wear for
hght toilettes and black gloves for black toilettes,
although evening gloves are always worn as far
as possible to match the gown, and may be had
in most of the dehcate evening shades.
In regard to the coloui- of gloves for outdoor
wear, fasliions are also constantly changing. At
one time the various shades of tan were con-
sidered appropriate wear for all occasions in the
daytime. Subsequentlj^ white kid gloves were
de rigueur for afternoon and dressy toilettes. At
the present time the tendency is as far as possible
for the gloves to match the gown, and gloves are
now manufactured in almost every conceivable
shade. This is a fashion which may be carried
to extremes of luxury beyond the reach of the
modest purse, and for this reason it is not likely
to become general. Light -coloured gloves, how-
ever, such as light beaver, biscuit colour, white,
should be worn on dressy occasions.
From the point of view of economy, kid gloves
are more useful than suede - the latter are apt
to wear into holes more quickly, and do not look
so fresh as kid gloves once they have been
in the hands of the cleaners. Gloves should
always be well fitting, and care should be taken
to select those of the right size. Tight gloves
are responsible for red hands and arms, whilst
gloves which are too large give an air of un-
tidiness to their wearer. Great care must be
taken in putting on gloves for the first time, for
on this will to a large extent depend their appear-
ance on subsequent occasions. Never put on
a new pair of gloves hurriedly - work all the
fingers into the glove fingers before putting in
the thumb, and above all see that the seams are
not twisted, but that they are all in place. It is
as well to rest the elbow on the table while
gently putting on the glove. A little powder
dusted into the fingers of the gloves before
putting them on will often make them f^o on
more easily. The buttons of new gloves should
always bo firmly stitched on before they are
worn. One or two buttons will usually be
found to be loose, and this is a very necessary
precaution if neatness is desired. A very small
piece of cotton wool placed inside the finger-
tips of silk gloves will often prevent holes from
coming as quickly as they are wont to do with
gloves of this kind. All kid and suede gloves
should bo sent to the cleaners when dirty,
home cleaning of gloves is unsatisfactory as a
rule, and as gloves are cleaned for the small sum
of 2d. a pair nowadays, the bother of cleaning
them at home is hardly worth while. (For
washing silk and cotton gloves, see p. 295.)
If after taking off delicate kid gloves they
are stretched out straight and put away flat
between sheets of tissue or other clean paper.
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARB
311
they will keep their shape much better, and
their wear will be materially prolonged.
STOCKINGS
Cashmere stockings make the most satis-
factory all -the -year -round wear ; warm, closely
woven cashmere stockings for the winter, and a
much lighter texture for the summer. Large
worked silk patterns on stockings are no longer
fashionable. The finer the texture of the
stockings the smarter are they supposed to be
for present-day wear. Very finely woven Msle
thread hose are much in fashion at the moment.
These are quite plain without any pattern, ex-
cepting perhaps a small black silk clock which
runs up the side of the leg. The effect is that of
fine silk, and as hsle thread is much cheaper
than the former material, it has to a great
extent superseded it for dressy wear amongst
people of moderate means, though silk hosiery
undoubtedly is the acme of " dressiness " for
very smart occasions.
Those who wear hsle thread hose would
always do well to see that the soles and heels
are of cashmere. Stockings of this description
can be had in a great many makes, and
from the point of view of both wear and com-
fort are far superior to those which are of hsle
thread throughout.
Open-work Hsle thread stockings are no
longer so fashionable as they were. Although
they are still largely worn, plain hsle thread
stockings are considered smarter in every way.
Those who suffer from tender feet, corns, &c.,
should never wear any other than cashmere or
hght woollen stockings.
Suspenders. - As a means of keeping up the
stockings, suspenders are much more satisfactory
than garters. They are more hygienic, inasmuch
as they do not tend to restrict the circulation as
in the case of a band of elastic drawn tightly
round the leg. Suspenders now form an integral
part of nearly all the new makes of corsets, and
besides keeping up the hose, serye in a certain
measui-e to keep the corset in place and so help
to support the fig\ire.
It is always well to ensure that the studs of
the suspenders are surrounded by some soft
silk or kid covering, otherwise they are apt
to tear the stockings, forming what is known
as a " ladder." Some stockings are manu-
factui'ed with a small portion of the upper part
of the leg of different and stronger material
from the rest of the stocking. Stockings built
in this way effectively resist the strain of the
heaviest suspenders. Failing this, it is a good
plan, if the stockings are fairly long in the legs, to
double them over slightly at the top before fixing
the suspenders. When thus doubled over they
resist the strain of the suspenders much better
than when they are put on in the ordinary way.
THE ACCESSORIES OF DRESS
It is in the accessories of her dress as much as
in any other detail that the weU-dressed woman
justifies her reputation as such. With her, pins
are not made to do duty for hooks and 6yes,
and there is never that ugly gap between waist-
band and skirt which is so often characteristic
of the blouse and skirt toilette of the untidy
woman. She is well up to date in such trifles
as waistbands and dainty neck -wear, realising
that even a gown which has seen better days
may be effectively sinartened by the freshness
of such Mttle details as lace jabots, pretty ties,
or any other similar dainty trifles which may be
the fashion of the moment. In one important
detail the well-dressed woman holds her own.
The fit of the collar of her gown is always above
reproach. There is nothing that tends to
impart an air of untidiness in dress more than
an ill-fitting collar. The collars of ready-made
blouses, for instance, run in certain sizes, and
are apt to be too large on some women. Yet
these women will seldom think of altering the
collar before wearing the blouse, and the result
is that they never achieve the eSect of looking
really smart. The fit and cut of the coUar of a
gown is not the least important adjunct to its
style, and the well-dressed woman realises tliis.
In the matter of collars, fashion is apt to show
strange vagaries. One season they will be
worn high, almost to the ears - at another gowns
will be innocent of even the pretence of a
collar band. One word of warning to the
middle-aged woman in this direction. Very
stiff and tight-fitting collars are injvu-ious to
the neck, causing it to become hned, and often
making the skin of an unbecoming yeUow
colour ; these, hke all other extremes of fashion,
should be avoided. On the other hand, a woman
who is getting on in years should always have
a collar of some kind to her go\vns. Tliis need
not be too high, but it should always be of
medium height - the lower her collar the more
it will detract from her appearance. Collar less
bodices in the daytime are only becoming to the
very young. This is a rule to be observed
whatever the tendency of fasliion. At the time
of writing, what are known as the " Peter Pan "
and " Claudine " collars are much in vogue. Tlie
Peter Pan is a plain ttu-n-down coUar of em-
broidery, net or lace ; the Claudine collar is a
pleated collar of the same shape and materials.
Both are worn with blouses which are innocent
of neckbands. This style of collar is very
becoming to young girls of the " pension-
naire " style with round faces and full throats,
but when adopted by the dowager of fifty it
only succeeds in making her look absurd.
Elderly women should avail themselves of the
fashion for dainty not and chiffon frilling, which
sewn on to the collar has a most softening effect
upon even the most faded and wxinkled faces.
312
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
There has been indeed during the whole of
the year 1910 such a variety of becoming neck-
wear to choose from, that the elderly woman
has really had no excuse for succumbing to the
vogue for the Peter Pan.
Dainty lace, net and muslin jabota have been
introduced in endless variety, their coming into
fashion being due to a large extent to the very
deep and low openings with which the fronts
of tailor-made coats were cut. The lace jabot
has proved such a dainty dress accessory that
the opinion may be hazarded that it will still hold
its own, at any rate for wear with indoor toilettes.
These jabots are simple of design and etisy of
construction, and the clever home worker may
easily fashion them from any odd bit of lace,
muslin, or net which she may discover in her
odds -and -ends bag. Many women still keep to
the neat linen collars and cufis for wear with
morning sliirt blouses. It must be remembered,
however, that these are only suitable for morning
indoor and outdoor wear. For the afternoon
something more dressy is required. Linen
collars should fit £is loosely as is compatible with
neatness, and they should never be worn too
high. The constant wearing of stiffly starched
high collars is very bad for the neck, causing
lines and discoloration of the skin.
JEWELLERY
Love of jewellery is innate with almost all
womankind. Perhaps it is inherited from that
passion for all kinds of ornaments displayed
by our more remote and barbaric ancestors. It
is certainly typical of the savage of to-day as
shown in his love of gaudy bead ornaments and
everything bright and glittering. The love of
jewellery, therefore, is most certainly a barbaric
instinct, but none the less it is an instinct which
we most of us possess.
Her passion for jewellery will often make a
woman err seriously in regard to good taste. In
no respect can vulgarity or ostentation be more
glaringly shown than in regard to an inordinate
display of brooches, rings, bangles and other orna-
ments of the kind. Often at f"ishionable restau-
rants a woman will be seen with diamond rings
half covering every finger of both hands, some-
times not even excluding the thumbs. Such a
display may certainly be indicative of her wealth,
but it serves even more to emphasise her lack
of refinement and good breeding. Very little
jewellery should be worn in the morning.
Diamonds are totally out of place with a morning
gown ; with the exception of her engagement
ring, which a woman never discards, she should
keep diamond ornaments for afternoon and
evening wear. A great display of jewellery
in the daytime is never in good taste. For
evening wear, however, one's taste for jewellery
may be indulged, only excess of ornamentation
should be avoided.
Brooches, pendants and bangles should be ia
keeping as far as possible. For instance, one
should avoid wearing a turquoise necklet at
the same time as an amethyst brooch and a
ruby bangle. Pearls and turquoises go very well
together, as do diamonds and opals - diamonds,
in fact, go well with most stones. They are
most becoming as a rule to brunettes and
dark-haired women generally, wliilst pearls are
the ideal stone for fair women, and more especi-
ally for young girls. Jet jewellery is worn with
very deep mourning.
There seems to be an inclination nowadays for
women who cannot afford good jewellery to go
in to a great extent for various imitations and
shams. This is a very great mistake. Sham
jewellery is yet another unfailing sign of wil-
garity. If a woman cannot afford diamonds
and precious stones she should be content with
plain gold. It is better to possess a very Uttle
good jewellery than an abundance of paste and
other imitation ornaments.
Care of Jewellery. - All plain gold bangles,
bracelets, brooches and other articles of jewellery
may be cleaned by W8ishing in a lather of soap ,.^_
and water. They should be well dried with a jfl
towel, and gentle rubbing with chamois leather
will serve to give an additional polish. Diamonds
may be cleaned by rubbing with eau-de-Cologne.
If very dirty, they may first be brushed gently
with warm water and a httle soap. The pre-
paration known as " jewellers' rouge," to be
obtained from the jewellers, is very good for
polishing gold and diamond ornaments. Pearls
and turquoises should never be allowed to go
into water ; turquoises in particular are liable
to lose their colour if exposed to the wet. These
stones can be cleaned with methylated spirits.
Opals are stones which require particular care ;
they should never be exposed to too much heat,
as this often makes them crack. They should
be cleaned with powder, to be obtained from the
jewellers for the purpose.
For cleaning jewellery set with small pearls,
rub well with a chamois leather, and if very
dirty, apply a little whiting with a small brush.
Little boxes containing chamois leather and
cleaning material for jewellery can be bought at
any of the large stores. Jet may be cleaned by
rubbing with olive oil and polishing with a
chamois leather.
If before putting on any article of jewellery,
the wearer would take the trouble to polish it
gently with a clean chamois leather, she would
find that it would keep clean for a much longer
period.
SYMBOLISM OF STONES
The Diamond signifies light, innocence, life
and joy.
The Rtiby - divine power and love, dignity
and royalty.
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
313
The Carbuncle - blood and suffering.
The Sardius - martyrdom.
The Sapphire - all heavenly virtues.
The Topaz - divine goodness and human
faithfulness.
The Emerald - hopes of immortality.
The Amethyst - earthly sufferings and truth
unto death.
The Pearl - purity, innocence and humility.
CARE OF CLOTHES
Care of Outdoor Clothes. - A woman who
takes care of her clothes always manages to
look tidy and neat, whatever the limitations of
her purse, and she can eke out her dress allow-
ance much more successfully than her careless
sister who, either through ignorance or natural
untidiness, fails to get the proper amount of
wear out of her garments, which very soon lose
their pristine freshness.
In respect to outdoor costumes, one sensible
rule should invariably be observed. Never
wear an outdoor skirt in the house if you wish
it to keep in proper shape. Make a rule of
changing it as soon as you come in from a walk ;
there is nothing more calculated to make a
tailor-made skirt lose its shape and become
shabby than constantly sitting about in it and
wearing it indoors.
All cloth and serge dresses should be brushed
directly they are taken off. The garment should
first be brushed with a good whisk brush to get
the dust off, then it should be laid on a table and
brushed with a moderately hard clothes-brush,
a hard brush being used to remove any mud from
round the hem, and a soft brush to remove the
dust from silk or velvet trimmings. Soft
brushes should always be used for very fine
cloth and velvet. Combined soft and hard
clothes-brushes may be had, the bristles being
hard on one side of the brush and soft on the
other.
On a wet day particular care should be taken
to change the outdoor dress. Letting alone all
questions of catching cold through keeping on
damp clothing, a skirt will become hopelessly
creased -looking if worn when it is wet. It
should be taken off at once, and hung up to dry
in a warm atmosphere. If very much creased,
however, it will require ironing with a moderately
warm iron on the wrong side of the material to
take the creases out. Dry skirts which are
slightly creased should be hung out in the open
air, or near - but not too near - the fire. The
wear of tailor-made garments will be materially
prolonged if they are sent occasionally to the
taOor's to be pressed. A tailor's charges for
pressing are not heavy, and more especially in
the case of a pleated skirt which has become
very damp and creased, a visit to the tailor will
give it a new lease of life. There are many
working tailors in a small way of trade who
charge very little for pressing and renovating
garments from time to time, repairing buttons
and attending to other httle details which
require attention to keep the garment trim and
neat. A tailor will also have aU the necessary
pressing apphances, and the result will be more
satisfactory in every way than if the dress were
ironed at home.
Care of Indoor Dresses. - Indoor dresses also
require their share of attention. The busy
woman need not wear an untidy or slovenly
appearance in the house because she has domestic
duties to attend to. She should keep a special
workaday gown, it is true, but this should
always be trim and neat. A plain butcher-
blue Unen with turn-down collar and tie makes
an admirable house di'ess for morning wear in the
summer ; a neat plainly cut blouse and skirt
serves an equal purpose in the winter. The
linen dress could be one of these plain -cut
princess gowns known as " tub frocks," which
are Ukely to remain long with us on account of
their extreme usefulness.
Overalls and Aprons. - The housewife should
take the additional precaution of wearing an
overall which will completely cover her gown
whilst engaged in any housework. An overall
is especially handy also to sUp over an afternoon
gown in the event of any light household task
cropping up in the afternoon, and also in the
event of cooking or superintending the cooking
in the evening. It is better to have long sleeves
to the overall if possible, though many women
prefer overalls and aprons of the daintier sleeve-
less types. For light work one of these latter
is quite sufficient. They may be bought in
several styles from 2s. lid. upwards, or can be
easily made at home by even the amateur
needlewoman.
Putting Clothes Away. - Dresses and skirts
which when taken off are tlii'own carelessly over
the backs of chairs, or are hung
up one on top of another behind
doors, very soon become soiled
and shabby -looking. Cloth and
serge dresses should be well
shaken and brushed when taken
off in the manner already de-
scribed, and then hung up in a
cupboard or wardrobe, the coats
suspended on coat-hangers, and
the skirts hung up by their loops.
There sho\ild alwaj's be two loops
for hanging sewn inside the waist-
band of the skirt. This helps a
great deal to preserve the " hang "
of the garment - one loop is not
sufficient for the purpose. Some
very simple combined coat and
skirt hangers may now be had
from the most of the leading drapers for the
trifling cost of a few pence, and it is as well to use
these where possible.
Skirt-Bag and
Hanger.
314
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Light-coloured skirts and all best skirts should
be hung up in thin musUn or cotton bags made
to open down the front. Several drapery firms
sell combined hangers and skirt -bags at moderate
prices. An old wliito petticoat can bo admirably
made to answer the purpose of a skirt -bag by
drawing it in at the top.
Impromptu Cupboards. - In some small houses
and flats where every inch of space is valuable,
there is httlo room for heavy furniture such as
W£irdrobes, and very often there are no cupboards
pro\ided, so that the putting away of clothes
becomes a real problem, which is not always
readily solved.
The clever woman is seldom at a loss, however,
even in this emergency. Where there is an
alcove or recess in the w-all, for instance, she
can, with the aid of two boards of wood for
shelves, some dress -hooks and a few yards
of chintz, make an excellent little impromptu
cupboard. One shelf is placed at the requisite
height from the floor, say six or seven feet, to
form the top of the cupboard ; the other shelf
is placed a few inches from the floor. The
chintz curtain is hung from the top of the cup-
board to the floor, and is made to draw back-
wards and forwards. The dress-hooks are fitted
to the top shelf, whilst boots and shoes and hat
boxes may be put on the lower shelf, the cupboard
being sufficiently high for the purpose. Odd
corners in the room can also be utihsed for
hanging dresses by nailing a board with some
dress-hooks across and covering the corner with
a curtain. This method is not, however, so
satisfactory as the alcove cupboard, and clothes
should only be placed there temporarily to get
them out of the way.
Curtains of impromptu cupboards of the kind
should be thoroughly well dusted every day.
Ottomans are also very handy articles to have
in flats, and any small carpenter will put one
together for a trifling sum. Covered with
pretty hght -coloured chintzes, they make very
dainty -looking additions to the furniture of the
room, and their usefulness in regard to the
putting away of linen, clothes or hats is un-
doubted.
Silk Dresses and Underskirts. - Silk drF>sses
should be carefully wiped over with a clean cloth
before being put away. Stiff silk underskirts
should never be folded away in a drawer, as the
silk is liable to spUt at the folds. Tliey should
always bo hung up. Starched cotton and
mushn dresses should be folded away neatly and
put in drawers. If hung up they will soon
become limp and lose their freshness.
Hats should be brushed with a soft hat brush
every time they are taken ofT, and put away on
hat shelves in the cupboard or wardrobe, or
else in a hat box, and well covered over with
tissue paper. For travelling, special leather
hat boxes fitted with cushions for a number of
hats should bo used. These can be had for
from 12s. 6d. and upwards. If the hats have
to be placed on the top tray of an ordinary trunk,
it is a good plan to pin them to the canvas of the
tray by means of hat-pins ; tliis will prevent
them from getting knocked about and tumbled.
Umbrellas should never be opened out to dry
when wet. They should be turned upside down,
resting on the handle. They should not be
left tightly rolled up when not in use, or the
covering will wear into holes at the folds. It is
never a good plan to leave an umbrella in tlie
hall stand. Very often another umbrella will
be pushed tlirough it by mistake, especially if
the stand is overcrowded. A good way of
keeping vmibrellas is to make a case of hoUand
or canvas to hold the number required, and
hang it up inside the door of a cupboard or
wardrobe where it will take up Uttle or no room,
placing the umbrellas inside.
For travelling, special umbrella -cases of leather
or waterproof canvas should be used, if there are
a number of umbrellas to be taken. These cases
may be had at prices varying from 3s. 4d. and
upwards.
Boots and Shoes should always be kept on
trees when not in use, and they will retain their
shape much longer. Wet boots should not be
placed too near the fire to dry, or the leather
will crack. Place them at once on trees and
stand them in a warm dry place. Where there
are no boot -trees available, it is a good plan
to stuff the boots with pieces of old newspaper.
It is always better to have two or three pairs
of boots in constant wear, and not to keep on
wearing one pair day after day until they
become worn out.
Never allow boots or shoes to become *' down
at heel." Send them to be repaired as soon as
the heels show signs of wear. Boots and shoes
should not be left lying about under the bed or
upon the bedroom floor. If there is not a
place for them at the bottom of the dress cup-
board, a Uttle boot cupboard may easily be
fashioned out of an old wine-case or orange-box.
This should be varnished or enamelled, stood
on its side against the wall, and a piece ot chintz
made to draw across it to form a miniature
curtain cupboard. There will be room for a
plank of wood to be fixed in the centre of the
box, and the boots can be placed on the shelf
thus formed, and at the bottom of the box.
Boots which have to be stored for any length of
time should he well vaselined before they aro
put away.
STORING WINTER AND SUMMER
CLOTHES
Before putting away winter or summer clothes
at the end of the season they should be well
sorted out, and any garments that will not
again be required should be given away or
otherwise disposed of. It is an unwise policy to
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
315
hoard up old soiled and disused garments which
can never be worn again, more especially to
keep them with other good garments. To do
this in the case of cloth or woollen clothing
is practically to invite the depredations of the
moth. All serge, cloth, tweed and woollen
dresses should be well beaten and thoroughly
brushed with a good clothes-brush and then
himg out in the open air for a few hours before
being packed away. Nothing should ever be
put awaj' dirty, and care should be taken that
all the garments are thoroughly dry, as mildew
is apt to form upon clothes which are put away
damp for any extended period. All the necessary
cleaning and repairing should be done before
laying clothing aside for the season.
Plenty of tissue paper should be placed
between the folds of Ught silk and satin dresses,
and stuSed into the sleeves to make them keep
their shape. All cotton and musHn dresses
should be washed and rough dried before being
put away. WTiite cotton and muslin dresses
should be rinsed in blue water to keep them a
good colour. No starch should be allowed to
remain in any cotton dress that is put aside for
the winter, ^^^ben qmte dry, fold the garments
away carefullj'. If wliite garments are folded
between sheets of blue tissue paper tliis will help
to preserve their coloiu*.
Furs. - Before putting furs away they should
be well beaten with a very Ught cane or riding-
whip to free them from dust ; then they should
be hung out in the open air for several hours.
Tliey should not be put away damp, as damp,
like dust, renders them Uable to the attacks of
the moth. They should be well powdered with
cayenne pepper and then placed in tliick brown
hoUand bags, which, in their turn, should be sewn
up in brown paper. Camphor or naphthaline
sewn up in tiny muslin sachets and placed inside
the hoUand bag with the furs may be used instead
of the cayenne pepper. Camphor is very popular
as a moth preventive, but naphthaline is much
more effective, only its clinging odour is some-
what against it for this purpose. Some strips
of Russian leather placed in the bag with the
furs will also be found useful in resisting the
inroads of the moth. It is an advantage if the
furs can occasionally be taken out of their
coverings in the summer and hung out in the
sunshine. In fact, where there is sufficient
wardrobe and cupboard accommodation to allow
of their being hung up with plenty of space,
and \v-here the cupboard is warm and diy and
free from damp, it will be quite sufficient to put
them away in the cupboard without packing
them, taking them out and shaking them as
often as possible. A few balls of naphthahne
might be placed upon the cupboard sheh-ec.
Fur -lined coats and cloaks should be well
sprinkled with cayenne pepper and stored in
special boxes lined with tar paper. Chinchilla
is too deHcate a fur to bo either beaten or shaken.
In the case of really valuable furs, it is much
better to send them away to a furrier to be
cleaned and stored for the ■winter. The charges
for fur warehousing are moderate, and the
freedom from anxiety afforded by the knowledge
that they are in expert care is well worth the
small outlay entailed.
CARE OF MEN'S CLOTHES
Men's garments soon become shabby -looking
if they are not properly cared for. Coats,
waistcoats and trousers should be well brushed
when taken off, and then carefully folded or hung
in a wardrobe. Trousers should be placed in
trouser -presses, or if these are not available they
should be pulled out lengthwise, folded down the
front of the leg and folded over before being put
Trouser-Press.
away. A very good plan is to place the trousers
so folded under the mattress of a bed, as the
pressui'e "i/hus afforded answers the same pur-
pose as that of trouser-stretchers, and helps
to prevent them from becoming baggj' at the
knees. Lajnng a damp cloth over the trousers
after they have been folded down the front of
the leg, and then carefully pressing them ^ith a
moderately warm iron is also effective. They
should only be folded down the front before being
ironed, and not folded over until afterwards.
Coats and overcoats should be hung on hangers.
Small single hangers can be had from any
draper for from 2d. upwards.
Mending. - All men's garments should be kept
in thorough repair ; that is to say, all the small
mending, such as sewing on buttons, repairing
button-holes, darning underUnen and socks,
should be regularly attended to. As men's socks
are sold in so many different colours nowadays,
it is always a good plan when buying new
socks to buy at the same time wool to match
them. It is a wise plan to stretch the heels and
toes of socks and lightly darn them before
use ; they will be found to wear much longer
in this way. (For general hints on Mending,
see p. 407.)
All flannel and linen under -garments should be
carefully gone over when they retm-n from the
laundry, and buttons sewn on and any other
necessary small repairs executed before they
are put awajs as nothing is more annoj-ing to a
man when taking clean clothes from liis chest of
drawers to find that there are buttons laclcing
316
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
or holes undamed. Frayed collars and cuffs
of sMrta should be neatly clipped with a sharp
pair of scissors. If the linen fronts and collars
and cuffs of sliirts have become very shabby
and worn, they can be sent to have new fronts
made. Most laundresses will undertake this re-
novating work for quite moderate charges.
If, however, the shirts should be of the cheapest
kinds sold, it might pay better to buy new
ones. Cheap underwear is even a greater
mistake ^vith men than with women. Shirts
in particular require so much treatment in the
way of dressing and glazing at the hands of the
laundress, that the very cheap kinds never wear
satisfactorily, neither do they ever look as
well when laundered as the better garments.
(For Washing Shirts, see p. 295.)
Renovating Shabby Coats, Waistcoats, and
Trousers. - There is nothing Uke rock ammonia
dissolved in warm water for cleaning and re-
novating men's garments which have become
shabby -looking and shiny. Use a good-sized
lump of ammonia to about a pint of water, and
when it has dissolved dip a clean whisk brush,
or a clothes-brush with firm bristles, into the
solution and thoroughly brush the garment ;
then hang in the open air to dry. If pressing
is required, do tliis with a moderately warm iron,
ironing the garments under clean brown paper.
Velvet coat collars can also be cleaned by care-
fully sponging with ammonia solution.
Rente and tears in men's coats, overcoats,
waistcoats or trousers cannot be satisfactorily
darned at home. The garments should be sent
to a etoppeur who is able to match the thread
of the tweed or cloth, and repair the garment in
such a manner that the darn is imperceptible.
Hats should be carefully brushed every day
with a soft hat-brush. After being out in the
rain the surface of a silk hat will often become
rough and untidy-looking. To remedy this,
pass a hat -brush which has been damped with
cold water gently round the hat in the direction
of the nap. This will distribute the moisture
evenly. When the whole hat is thoroughly
damped, brush evenly round with a hard brush.
Leave the hat for a few hours, and when it is
thoroughly dry, brush with the soft hat-brush
as usual.
Wlien a silk hat has become dull -looking
through constant wear, it should be sent to the
hatter's to be ironed. This is usually done for
a very moderate charge, and is more satisfactory
than ironing at home. Sometimes, however,
brushing with a hot brush will have the required
effect. Silk hats which have become soiled and
greasy can be cleaned with a piece of clean
flannel dipjied in a solution of ammonia and
water ; gently wipe this round the hat in the
direction of the nap. The whole cleaning and
ironing process will be undertaken by a hatter
for a trifling consideration. They also do the
work very promptly, usually getting the hat
ready wliile the customer waits. On the whole,
a great deal of trouble is saved in this way.
Felt hats are also cleaned with ammonia.
Boots and Shoes should not be allowed to
Utter a man's dressing-room. A small trunk or
suit-case stand usually forms part of every
dressing-room equipment. The suit-case is
Suit-Case Stand.
placed on the top of this, and the boots neatly
ranged on the shelf underneath. Faihng this,
they should be put away in a cupboard or on
shelves made for the purpose. All the boots
should be placed on trees when not in wear, and
if put away for any length of time, they should
be well vasehned to prevent the leather from
cracking.
Ties and Collars. - Collars should be kept in
special round collar-boxes ; ties should be folded
neatly when taken off, and put away in a tie-
case.
CLEANING AND DYEING
Cleaning and dyeing play an important part
in the renovation of clothes, and old garments
should not be thoughtlessly cast aside before
the possibiUties in this direction have been well
weighed and considered. A dyed dress may
be renovated and altered in more ways than one,
so much so as to present the appearance of a
totally new garment. Where a woman is an
adapt at fasliioning her own gowns, she will be
able to effect much saving in this way. If,
however, she has to have all her dressmaking
done for her, then before planning extensive
renovations of the kind, she would do well to
take pencil and paper and calculate exactly
what it will cost her. In addition to the dyer's
account, dressmakers' charges will be found to
considerably swell the sum total, which would
in these circumstances sometimes amount to
almost the cost of a now garment. For this
reason a woman should either carry out the
renovating of dyed garments herself, or if she
is unable to do this, she should engage a good
visiting dressmaker and needlewoman by the
day and help her with it. It does not always
pay to send out renovations unless the dress
was originally a very expensive one. Dress-
makers as a rule have not much liking for this
work, they prefer new and more straightforv/ard
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
317
dressmaking ; and for this reason, apart from
the question of expense, their work in this
direction is seldom satisfactory. There are ex-
ceptions to this rule, of course, but one is more
liable to come across the rule than the exceptions.
Formerly to send clothes to the dyers or
cleaners was somewhat of an undertaking, as
each garment had to be religiously unpicked
and taken to pieces, and when it came back
from the cleaners, there was all the work and
worry of putting it together again. Nowadays
cleaners undertake to clean garments of the
most elaborate character without so much as
impicking a stitch of tliem. Cleaning has, in
fact, been raised to almost the level of a fine
art ; what is known as the " dry cleaning " pro-
cess has been almost universally adopted, and
all danger of the shrinking of cloth and woollen
garments has been practically obviated. The
most delicate fabrics pass successfully through
the expert cleaner's hands.
In dyeing, however, the possibiUty of slight
shrinking must always be reckoned with, and a
woman should make allowances for this when
planning out the renovation of a garment in this
way. The time taken by professional cleaners
to clean garments usually amounts to from
eight to ten days, whilst for dyeing a fortnight
is usually required. The latter rule does not
apply, however, to garments which are being
dyed black for ptu-poses of moxirning. All dyers
give special concessions in regard to exceptional
circumstances of the kind, and most of them
can undertake to get the garments ready
within two or tliree dnys.
Hints for Home Cleaning. - A great deal in
regard to cleaning may be successfully under-
taken at home. For this purpose there should
always be a good amount of Fuller's earth,
ammonia and benzine in the store cupboard.
Special care must, however, be taken in regard
to the storing of the two latter articles, as
ammonia in its pure state is explosive when
too much shaken, and benzine is inflammable.
Petrol is also exceedingly useful for the home
cleaner, but on account of its dangerous proper-
ties it should only be procured in small quantities
as required ; and it should never on any account
be stored at home.
Cleaning Lace and Silk Yokes, Vests, Trim-
mings, &c. - It often happens that a cloth dress
will have a white lace or net yoke, or vest, or
other similar trimming which would naturally
become dirty long before the dress is soiled.
One dof^s not care to send a whole dress to the
cleaners for the sake of the trimming, more
especially as the latter may be cleaned at home
as follows ; -
Lay the dress on a table over which a clean
cloth has been spread ; cover all the dress over
with a cloth excepting the portion which is to be
cleaned, then with a piece of flannel soaked in
petrol rub all over the soiled part. Go over
it again with a piece of clean flannel dipped in
petrol, and leave in the open air to dry. Petrol,
it must be remembered, is extremely dangerous
in careless hands, as it is most inflammable ; for
this reason the cleaning should only be under-
taken in the daytime, and in a room where there
is no fire.
White Non- Washing Silks may be cleaned by
rubbing with stale bread-crumbs mixed with a
Uttle powdered blue. White silk and other light
dresses which have only been slightly soiled can
be made quite fresh again by rubbing with stale
bread-crumbs. Silk, serge, and cashmere dresses
may be freshened by rubbing with a solution
of fig leaves, made by boiUng a handful of fig
leaves in about a quart of water, and straining
off when cool.
Taking Stains from Garments. - One* general
rule to be observed in taking stains from
garments is this : - When rubbing with the
cleansing preparation rub always in a circular
direction, beginning in a circle just outside the
stain round the outer part, gradually working in
towards the centre. This prevents the stain
from spreading any further.
Most stains, such as grease stains, fruit stains,
and wine stains, may be removed from very fine
garments by rubbing with a flannel dipped in
ether. This may be obtained m small quantities
from most chemists at prices varjang from six-
pence and upwards.
To Remove Paint Stains. - Rub when fresh
with turpentine apphed on a piece of flannel.
If the stain is an old one, mix ammonia with the
tiirpentine. Paint spots on velvet or velveteen
can usually be removed with paraffin or pure
alcohol.
To Remove Grease or Wax Stains. - Lay the
garment out on a table over a clean ironing-
sheet, place a piece of blotting-paper both over
the stain and underneath it. Iron with a
moderately hot iron. The blotting-paper will
be found to absorb the grease and the stain
will disappear. Good brown paper may be used
instead of the blotting-paper with successful
results.
Cleaning Light Blouses. - A simple and easy
method of cleaning hght blouses at home which
has been proved successful is as follows : -
Take an ordinary hat box and Une it %rith
clean white paper, cover the bottom of the box
with a layer of Fuller's earth. Place the blouse
in this, covering it with another layer of Fuller's
earth. Cover this with a sheet of white paper ;
close the box, rendering it as air-tight as possible,
and put it aside for foiu* or five days. When
taken out of the box and shaken, the blouse
will be found to be perfectly clean.
Renovating Shabby Garments. - Faded and
shabbj' -looking stuff garments may be much
improved by careful sponging with hquid
ammonia. For all black fabrics ammonia is
the best cleanser.
318
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Cleaning Light Cloth Garments. - For cliiklren's
light cloth coats, &c., a little fig dust well rubbed
into the niat<^rial, and allowed to remain on for a
few hoiu" before being brushed off, is an effective
cleanser. For hght cloth trimmings, cloth ball
is also very useful. This may bo obtained from
any drapers for an outlay of from lOid.
ink Spots on Cloth. - ^\Vhen a cloth or stuff
dress becomes stained with ink, the stain should
never be allowed to dry into the material.
Pressing blotting-paper on the wot stain will
often be sufficient to absorb it. This, however,
must be done at once if it is to be efficacious.
Another way of removing ink stains from cloth
is to sponge at once with milk, then with warm
water ; dry with a soft cloth, and iron on the
wTong side of the material. (For taking out
ink spots on cotton or hnen, see p. 279.)
To Raise the Pile of Velvet.- WTien velvet has
become shabby it may be renovated by holding
the wrong side of the velvet over a jug of boiling
water ; tliis will cause the pile to rise. Another
and perhaps a more effective method is as
follows : -
Cover the flat part of a very warm iron with
a damp cloth. Get some one to hold the iron
for you, and then grasping the velvet firmly at
each end p"i8S it backwards and forwards on the
wrong side across the cloth. The steam from
the cloth will cause the ^5ile to rise, and the
velvet will become almost like new. (For
Washing Vrlveteen, son p. 289.)
To Wash White Coque Feather Boas. - Dis-
solve some Lux into a basinful of warm
water, stir it into a lather, and place the boa
in tl is, gently pressing tho feathers between the
fingers ; rinse in clean water, shake well, and hang
in the open air to dry in the simshine. The
feathers will have a straight appearance when
wet, but will resume their fluffy appearance as
soon as dry. They should be well shaken before
hanging them up. In winter they should be
shaken before a fire and then hung near it ;
only not too close, as they are liable to get
scorched.
To Clean Ostrich Feathers. - Shake them well
in a lather of Lux and water, or soap and
water. Dry slowly before the fire, and curl
the feathers with a blunt penknife.
To Clean White and Light Felt Hats. - Rub the
hat all over with calcined magnesia applied with
a small soft brush ; put the hat aside for a day or
a night, then shake the powder off. If the hat
is found not to be perfectly clean after the first
appUcation, repeat the treatment. For white
felt hats, bran moistened with petrol and rubbed
all over the hat makes a particularly effective
cleanser.
Renewing Black Chip Hats. - After removing
all dust from the hat with a soft brush or a
piece of velvet (a velvet cushion such as is used
for polishing patent and glac(?i shoos would do),
rub in a little olive oil with another piece of old
velvet.
Straw Hats. - Wlute straw hats may be cleaned
by rubbing with cut lemon, and afterwards
rinsing in cold water. The straw should then
be stiffened by brushing with a brush dipped
in a solution of gum and water. To whiten
wliite straw hats which have become scorched
by the sun, dissolve a tea-spoonful of oxalic acid
in half a pint of warm water and brush evenly
round the hat, rinse and put in the open air to
dry.
Black straw hats, after being thoroughly
brushed to take the dust off, may be cleaned by
applying black ink and liquid gum mixed in
equal proportions with a small brush.
To Dye Straw Hats which have become irre-
trievably scorched by the sun or discoloured,
brush all dust off with a good stiff brush, and
paint the hat all over with hat dye or Aspinal's
enamel of tho shade required, using a colour
brush for the purpose.
To Paint White Shoes Gold or Silver.- White
kid and leather shoes which have become very
soiled may be dyed gold or silver. To do this,
purchase sixpenny-worth of gold or silver paint,
and paint evenly all over the shoes with a paint
brush. Leave them in the air to dry.
Tarnished Gold Braid may be freshened by
rubbing with a little Fuller's earth.
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
319
To Clean Furs. - Furs may be cleaned by
rubbing with warm bran. The bran should be
placed on a piece of white paper in the oven to
dry. It should not be overheated, or the furs
will be spoiled. The white paper wiU form an
excellent guide in this direction, for if it becomes
the least bit brown it will be a sign that the
bran has become too much heated. It should
be well rubbed in and then shaken or brushed
out. Fig dust may be used in the same
way.
Cleaning White Furs. - Powdered magnesia
warmed in the oven is a good cleanser for white
and light furs. It shotild be weU rubbed into
the fur and then shaken out. After the first
shaking it wiU be found advantageous to leave
the furs in a box for a day or two, and then
thoroughly shake out once more. For the
coarser white furs ordinary flour warmed in the
oven makes a very good cleanser. Spread some
clean paper on the table, place the fur to be
cleaned upon it, and well rub in the warm flour
into the hairs. When the fur appears to be
clean, shake well and lay aside in a box for
twenty-four hoiu-s, when most of the surplus
flovir will be found deposited in the bottom of
the box. Shake again thoroughly, and the fur
will be ready for wear.
DRESS ALLOWANCES
It is wise of parents to give their daughters a
dress allowance as soon as they attain a certain
age, making them responsible for the pvirchase
and upkeep of their wardrobe. Tliis plan tends
to give young people a practical insight into the
value of money wliich will stand them in good
stead when they in turn have to take the cares
of a home upon their shoulders. Every woman
should allot a certain sum of money each year
for expenditure upon dress, and be careful that
this sum is not exceeded. System in this as
well as other questions of apportionment of
income is essential where economy has to be
practised. " I cannot say what I spend upon
dress," a woman will often be heard to remark.
" I buy new clothes when I need them, but my
wants do not amount to much, and my ex-
penditure must be very small." If this woman
would make up her mind to note down carefully,
say for a period of threo months, her dress
expenditiure she would be astounded at the
substantial total to which small sums expended
here and there upon what seemed at the time
to be mere trifles have amounted, and she will
then begin to reaUse the necessity of the fixed
dress allowance as a factor in restraining all
unnecessary expenditiu'e.
Tlie cost of a woman's wardrobe will depend
upon the social circle in which she moves, and
/ the appearance which she has to keep up ; also
' upon the extent of her aptitude with her needle,
her ability to cut out, fashion, and renovate
garments for herself, and the care she takes of
her clothes. Much saving may also be effected
by the woman who knows how to spend her
money judiciously.
Buying at Sales. - The woman who has only a
small dress allowance often makes the mistake
of expending it upon cheap articles which may
be good for show at first, but wliich are certainly
bad for wear, and in her hankering after cheap
finery she neglects essentials, with the resrilt
that she is never weU dressed. " Little and
good " should be the motto for the woman
to whom sliillings and pence are a matter of
moment. She should know what to buy, and
when and where to buy to the most advantage.
The clever woman makes a point of buying the
more expensive items of her wardrobe at the
sales of the large drapery establishments. In
the case of firms of high standing and repute,
these sales are always genuine, and some really
amazing bargains may be had during sale time.
The large winter sales occur in January or
February, and the summer sales at the end
of July and in August. At the winter sales
especially some wonderful bargains in coat and
skirt costumes may sometimes be found. Very
often a costume which was originally priced
at seven or eight guineas will be marked down
to as low a figiu-e as £3, 3s. It will, in several
cases, be of the latest style and cut, and one
is sometimes puzzled as to the reason for the
reduction. This may be due to the fact that
the dress is of a coloiir only becoming to tho
few. Well, if it is secirred by one of the
few, that one will have every reason to be
satisfied with her purchase. Care, of course,
must be taken to choose a costume which will
not " date " too quickly. Summer dress
materials may also be purchased to wonderful
advantage at sale times. The bargain -hunter
at the sales must show method in her shopping
if she wishes to make it a success. She should
know what she wants to buy, and make up her
mind to buy it, and not be led into spending
her money upon those innumerable Httle un-
necessary trifles which appeal to her natvu-ai
feminine love of finery, and so prove such
formidable weapons in the armovu-y of the
expert salesmen at this season. After the sales
are over, many a woman finds herself the
possessor of a number of useless little odds and
ends she does not want, but which she felt she
must buy " because they were so very cheap."
Sales are the rocks upon wliich many good
resolutions for economy are wrecked ; on the
other hand, they are inexpressible boons to the
sensible woman shopper who knows how to
shop upon a scientific basis. She has two tilings
always before her - her requirements, and the
limitations of her purse. This being so, she is
careful to purchase onlj- what she really needs,
and thus she is able to eke out her allowance by
careful and judicious buying at tliis period. If
320
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
all women kept these two essentials well in mind
at sale time, they would find that they could
expend their money to great advantage.
The inability to " cut her coat according to
her cloth " is the reason why a woman so often
finds herself unable to make both ends meet on
a small dress allowance. She is ever striving to
\'ie in her dress with other women who enjoy
double her income, and her efforts are doomed
to failure at the outset. It is not much use, for
instance, to spend all one's allowance on an
expensive gown, only to have it ruined by
wearing it in wet weather through not having
sufiicient money to provide either a good coat
to cover it, or a tailor-made for ordinary occa-
sions, and the appearance of the smartest gown
is spoiled by shabby shoes or inferior gloves.
A woman with little money to spend on dress
must set a standard for herself, and not be led
into trjang to follow the standard of others, for
this invariably leads to disappointment. It is
8\u"prising on how little money a woman can
dress well if neatness and serviceabiUty are the
two objects she keeps in view, leaving the taste
for indulging in the extremes of fashion to the
woman who can afford to indulge herself in this
direction.
But whatever her income, a woman with the
exercise of a Uttle forethought can avoid being
old-fashioned and out of date in her dress.
Even if she can only afford one new costume
every two years, she can at least take care that
what she buys is not only in fashion at the
moment, but that it is not of a fashion so striking
that it is doomed to be short-lived. Ordinary
styles last generally well into two seasons. The
first season they are adopted by a few - the
second season they become general. It is an
unwise plan to only adopt a style after it has
become general, for this is a sure indication that
it will die out very soon, and for a woman whose
dress has to leist her for two years, this is not a
promising outlook. A woman therefore should
strive to show some originality and some de-
cisiveness in her choice of dress, and not be
content to follow bUndly where others lead.
She must not disregard fashion altogether be it
Sfidd ; to do so would be to make oneself con-
spicuous, and the well-dressed woman is never
conspicuous ; but she should shun all styles
which do not suit her, avoid all dress unsviitable
for the position in life which she occupies, re-
membering that to be suitably dressed is to
have solved the art of dreasing well.
How to make her dress allowance suffice for her
requirements is therefore a problem with which
many a woman is confront^^d. A good manager,
however, will by dint of careful contriving suc-
cessfully cope with all her difficulties, very often
making £15 a year go as far as £30 would go in
less experienced hands.
The successful management of a dress allow-
ance will depend to a great extent upon how far
a woman can dovetail her requirements, making
the purchases of one year fit in with those of the
next. For instance, where she is only able to
buy one new dress in a year, one year she will
buy a good outdoor costume - the next year she
will expend the money on an afternoon dress,
each doing duty therefore for two seasons.
In this way she will be able to balance each
year's expenses to a nicety, instead of spending
only half her allowance one year and three times
the amount of it the next.
It is difficult to set down hard-and-fast rules
for expenditure upon dress in the year ; as has
been said before, the successful expenditure of a
dress allowance resolves itself into a question of
good management. As a guide, however, for
those to whom the advice may be useful, we
append some specimen lists of expenditure
covering annual sums of £15, £25 and £40 a year.
These amounts may be taken to be fairly repre-
sentative, and the Usts will give at least some
general idea of judicious apportionment of the
money spent upon the various articles detailed.
SOME SPECIMEN DRESS ALLOWANCES
£15 A Year
£ a. d.
Costume 300
Dress 200
Coat or cloak 110
Boots and shoes 2 0 0
Underclothing 3 0 0
Hats 10 0
Blouses 1 10 0
Gloves, veils, &c 10 0
Boot-mending, cleaning, &c 9 0
£15 0 ~0
In regard to the item £3 for a costume, this can
be spent on a winter costume one year and the
next year a best summer dress, costing £2, and
two cotton dresses or Unen skirts at 10s. each
can be purchased. In regard to the £2 allotted
for a dress, tliis can be expended upon an
afternoon toilette one year, and on an evening
toilette the next. It is always necessary to
allow a good sum for boots and shoes, therefore
£2 will not be a bit too much to put by for these,
and the expenditure upon them will be pretty
nearly the same each year. The amount spent
upon underlinen will of course be varied accord-
ing to the amount of wear to be had out of the
articles purchased, and where a woman is able to
make part of her lingerie herself, the expenditure
will of course be decreased, for home-made under-
linen not only costs less, but wears much better
than that which is bought ready made. Any
surplus from the £3, therefore, in any particular
year, can be allowed for an umbrella or a sun-
shade, as the C£ise may be. Nine shillings is not
a very large amount to cover repairing and
DRESS- ITS CHOIOE AND CARE
321
cleaning, but it can be augmented occasionally
from any small sum that may bo left over from
other items. In regaxd to the £1, Is. allowed
for coat, this can be expended upon a good warm
serge coat, which would also do duty as a rain
coat one year, and the next year it might pur-
chase a plain simple little light cloak or coat
which would do duty for both day and evening
weax, only the purchase would have to be made
at sale time for anything Uke a presentable
garment at the price to be had.
Many other Mttle contrivances too numerous to
mention can be resorted to in order to eke out
a dress allowance of the amount named, but
ideas in regard to these will come of themselves
to the woman who takes the trouble to plan her
expenditure in a sensible manner.
With the above few notes as a guide, the
reader will be able to adapt the two following
specimen lists for dress allowances of £25 and
£40 a year respectively to suit herself.
£25 A Year
£ 8. d.
One good costume 4 0 0
Summer dress 2 0 0
One afternoon dress 2 10 0
One evening dress 2 10 0
One wrap or coat 1 10 0
Boots and shoes 2 5 0
Hats 200
Blouses 200
Underclothing 3 10 0
Gloves, veils, neckwear 1 10 0
Umbrella or sunshado 0 10 0
Cleaning, boot-mending, &c. . . . 0 15 0
£25 0 0
£40 A Yeak
£ 8. d.
One good costume 5 6 0
One best summer dress 3 0 0
Two lingerie dresses at £1 each ... 2 0 0
Afternoon dress 3 0 0
Evening dress 4 0 0
Wrap 2 10 0
Blouses 300
Underclothing (including dressing-
gown) 500
Boots and shoes 3 0 0
Hats 300
Gloves, veils, and neckwear .... 2 10 0
Umbrella or sunshade 0 15 0
Repairiugi cleaning, &c 10 0
£38 0 0
This leaves a balance of £2, which should be
set aside to be added towards the same balance
on the following year, and the two together with
any surplus from the lingerie or other items will
serve to purchase a useful so' of furs.
The above list allows for new winter costumes
and new summer dresses every year ; but of
course the winter costume of the preceding yetir
always comes in for morning outdoor wear, the
new toilette being kept for visiting and more
dressy occasions. The same may be said in
regard to the summer dresses. Where a woman
engages in motoring to a certain extent, she will
of course require a good motoring coat, bonnet,
and veil. By spending a little less on her
winter and summer dresses one year she will
be able to supply this, or else she might forego
the new wrap one year, and employ it on a
motoring outfit instead. This will last her a
good time, and will not reqiiire to be often re-
newed. A stylish evening or day wrap may often
be purchased for the small sum of £1, 15s. In this
case the surplus from the £2, 10s. allowed will
go towards the purchase of a rain or dust cloak.
Where a woman can make her own blouses
and summer and indoor dresses, her allowance,
of course, can be made to go twice as far again.
She should always be well in advance with her
new things at the very beginning of each season,
as in this Ues the secret of being up-to-date aa
far as dress is concerned.
THE BRIDAL TROUSSEAU
Upon no occasion perhaps does the question of
dress assume such importance to the girl and
women members of a family as when one of
their number is engaged in the preparation of
her trousseau. However poor and humble the
circumstances of the parents of the bride, they
will strain every effort, depriving themselves
even of necessaries if needs be, in order to see
that their daughter goes to her husband well
equipped in every way.
We have said good-bye to the days when every
girl, as soon as she reached the matvire age of
fifteen or thereabouts, would pass most of her
time laboriously putting the finest of stitches
into the finest of garments to be set aside in the
" bottom drawer " with sprigs of lavender
placed between their dainty folds, pending the
appearance of " Jlr. Right " upon the scene to
put the momentous question. How many a
trousseau prepared in this manner has been fated
to remain for ever undisturbed in the place into
which it was laid with so mvich care and tender-
ness and so many happy thoughts of that bright
future which looms golden in the mind of nearly
every girl. Marriage is not to-day the sole
idea of the young girl's hfe as it was in those days,
and in any case, however anxious a girl may bo
to get married and settle down in a home of
her own, she would never anticipate events by
preparing a trousseau before any man had asked
her to be his bride. Such an act indeed the
modern girl would look upon with superstition
as being unlucky - yet, when the momentous
question has been asked, and once she is engaged,
her thoughts are naturally full of the prepEurations
322
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
she must make in this direction. Her girl
friends will flock round her and beg to see the
pretty things that she has prepared. Small
wonder then that the engaged girl is anxious
that everything she has will be the daintiest and
the best procurable for the money her parents
can afford.
People are not making the mistake nowadays
of including a largo number of dresses of every
kind and variety in the trousseau. In most
cases half of those dresses would be quite out of
date before their owner had any opportunity of
wearing them, and she would be doomed there-
fore, if not very well off, to spend the first
few years of her marriage wearing demode
gowns.
A sensible idea adopted by many parents is
that of including several dress lengths in the
trousseau. These can be made up as required,
and v\-ill be found not the lesist useful part of
the trousseau. The number of dresses that will
be absolutely necessary depend upon the social
position the bride will be called upon to fill. For
the ordinary middle-clsiss girl of average means,
in addition to her wedding dress and going-
away dress, the following will usually be found
sufficient : -
One good outdoor costume.
One good coat and skirt for morning wear.
Two afternoon dresses.
One light evening dress.
One dark evening dress.
One fur coat, or dressy coat or wrap.
One evening cloak.
One morning dress or skirt to wear with
blouses.
Two or three light muslin and lingerie dresses,
bloxoses, &c.
With several dress lengths added, this list of
dresses should bo suflScient for all ordinary
requirements.
Where the wedding dress is afterwards used as
an evening dress, the light evening dress may be
dispensed with.
The specimen lists given below for trousseaux
which may bo purchased for an outlay of £65 and
£130 respectively are capable of much variation.
They are intended mainly as a guide to parents
with marriageable daughters as to what form
their expenditure should take. Tlie £65 trous-
seau includes only the essentials of a wedding
outfit, the various items mentioned being of
simple and plain yet at the same time of fairly
good quality. In the £130 outfit a little more
scope for finery is allowed. A substantial pro-
per* ion of the respective sums of money is allowed
for underlinen, as lingerie of the very cheap
variety is excluded from both lists.
Trousseau for £65
Wedding dress (to be used afterwards
as best evening dress) and veil .
8 8 0
£ 8. d.
Going - away dress (afterwards best
visiting costume) 5 5 0
Wrap suitable for both afternoon and
evening wear 2 10 0
Outdoor costume 4 4 0
1 dark evening dress 4 4 0
Good afternoon dress 3 3 0
Skirt for wear with blouses .... 1 1 0
Rain coat 110
Going-away hat 1 10 0
2 Hats at 12s. 9d 15 6
Blouses 200
6 pairs short gloves at 3s. 3d. ... 19 6
2 pairs long gloves at 5s. 6d. ... 110
1 pair very long gloves at 7s. lid. . 7 11
1 pair boots 16 0
2 pairs walking shoes at 10s. 6d. ..110
1 pair white evening shoes (for wear
with wedding dress) 10 6
2 pairs indoor shoes at 5s. 6d. ... 110
Umbrella 15 0
Sunshade 10 6
Lingerie
3 Night-dresses, longcloth and em-
broidery at 7s. lid 1 3 9
2 Night-dresses, fine nainsook and lace
at 12s. 9d 15 6
1 Night-dress, cambric and lace . . 15 9
6 longcloth chemises trimmed with
embroidery at 3s. lid 1 3 6
4 French hand-made chemises with
Valenciennes lace at 5s. lid. . . 1 3 8
2 fine cambric chemises with lace at
10s. 9d 116
6 Longcloth knickers at 3s. lljd. . . 1 3 9
4 French hand - made knickers at
5s. lid 138
2 Cambric and lace knickers at 8s. lid. 17 10
2 pairs corsets at 12s. 9d 16 6
3 Camisoles at 3s. 3d 9 9
2 Camisoles at 5s. 6d 110
1 Camisole at 7s. lid 7 11
4 Flannel or nun's-veiling petticoats
at 58. 6d 12 0
1 dozen pair stockings at 23. (six
cashmere, six fine lisle thread) .14 0
2 pairs spun-silk stockings at 3s. 6d. . 7 0
4 Wliite petticoats at 7s. 6d. ... 1 10 0
1 Lace or silk petticoat for wear with
bridal dress 110
1 Dark petticoat 7 6
6 Merino, woollen, or silk-spun com-
binations at 63. 6d. 1 19 0
1 Winter dressing-gown 10 0
1 Summer dressing-gown IS 0
2 dozen handkerchiefs at 10s. 6d. ..110
£63 13 6
This leaves a balance of £1, 6s. 6d., which may
be expended upon veils and neckwear. In
DRESS- ITS CHOICE AND CARE
323
regard to the lingerie, if combinations are pre-
ferred to the chemises and drawers, the combined
garments will of course be cheaper than the
separate items. The above Ust represents all
articles actually bought in their complete state.
A substantial saving would be effected if the
bride, aided by the women members of her
family, could make some of the Ungerie and
simpler gowns herself. Many people cannot afford
even £65 for a trousseau for their daughters.
In these circumstances the help of the home
needlewoman is a necessity ; the wedding frock
should be of the very simplest, and the frocks
not home-made would have to be the plainest of
their kind. With the sum of £65 to expend,
however, with the addition of the help of really
clever home-workers and plenty of time in which
to prepare their work, a very good trousseau
indeed may be had. For a comparatively small
outlay upon materials, dainty Ught muslin
frocks, an extra afternoon frock, and even a
pretty tea-gown may be made without added
extra outlay. It is always advisable to have
the going-away dress and the outdoor costume,
made at a good shop. In regard to both
these a good tailor's cut is eminently desirable.
With the money saved on garments made at
home even a little extra expenditure may be
made in this direction.
There are, of course, many articles nowadays
of the ready-made species which can be had for
ridiculously low sums, and might perhaps cost
no more than those of home manufacture. In
regard to a bride's trousseau, however, every-
thing in it should bo good. For this reason
it is better to avoid purchases of the cheap
" ready-made " variety if making one or two
things at home wiU allow for an extra outlay
upon the garments which have to be bought.
£8, 8s. is not a very large sum to allot for the
wedding dress and veil, if the dress is to be made
at a good costumier's. If, on the other hand,
a known and tried dressmaker who makes
up ladies' own materials is entrusted with the
work, it can be made for even less, and the
surplus would go towards some other purchase.
If the wedding is to be a quiet one, the bride
being married in her travelling dress, £4, 4s. of
the sum allowed for the wedding dress might
be expended upon a good white evening dress,
the remainder being expended upon two pretty
muslin dresses or else two useful dress lengths.
As a rule, the bridal dress is worn as a best
evening gown afterwards, so the evening gown
allowed on the list should be a black one if
possible, as it is destined to play the part of a
serviceable dress.
Many bargains, and good ones, may sometimes
be had at sales both in regard to lingerie and to
dresses ; the discriminating shopper will be wise
to make judicious use of her opportunities in
this direction, and she will perhaps secure several
of the items at a good deal less than the figures
at which they are marked upon the following
lists.
Trousseau for £130
£ 8. d.
Wedding dress (to be used afterwards
as best evening dress) and veil . 10 10 0
Going-away dress (afterwards best
visiting costume) 7 7 0
Good fur-lined coat or fur stole and
muff '..770
1 Cloth outdoor costume 5 5 0
1 Serge or tweed costume .... 3 3 0
1 Long coat suitable for motoring or
rain coat 2 10 0
Demi -toilette dress 3 3 0
Evening dress 5 5 0
1 Afternoon dress 4 4 0
1 Evening wrap 3 0 0
1 Dress length, 6 yards cloth at 4s.
per yard 14 0
1 Dress length, 12 yards silk or satin
at 5s. per yard 3 0 0
1 Tea gown 300
Light muslin or voile summer dress .300
2 Linen costumes or cotton dresses at
£1, 10s. each 3 0 0
1 House dress 2 2 0
Going-away hat 2 2 0
Motoring and travelling hat and veil . 1 10 0
2 Hats at 12s. 9d 15 6
Blouses 400
1 pair boots 110
1 pair walking shoes 110
2 pairs walking shoes at 12s. 6d. ..150
2 pairs evening shoes at 10s. 6d. ..110
2 pairs house shoes at 7s. 6d. ... 15 0
Umbrella 110
Sunshade 15 0
6 pairs short kid and suede gloves at
3s. 3d 19 6
2 pairs short kid and suede gloves at
5s. 6d 11 0
4 pairs long kid and suede gloves at
6s. lid 17 8
Lingerie
6 Night-dresses at 7s. 1 Id 2 7 6
4 Night-dresses at 12s. 6d 2 10 0
2 Night-dresses at £1, Is 2 2 0
6 Chemises at 5s. 6d 1 13 0
3 Chemises at 7s. 6d 12 6
3 Chemises at 10s. 6d 1116
6 Drawers at 5s. 6d 1 13 0
3 Drawers at 7s. 6d 12 6
3 Drawers at 10s. 6d 1116
6 Spun silk, merino, or woollen com-
binations at 6s. 6d 1 19 0
6 Camisoles at 4s 14 0
5 Camisoles at 6s. 6d 1 12 6
1 Camisole at 10s. 6d 10 6
1 pair corsets 110
324
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
£ a. d.
2 pairs corsets at 128. 9d 15 6
1 Silk, satin or \axx> petticoat for wear
with wedding dress 2 2 0
1 Silk petticoat 110
1 iloirette petticoat 10 6
6 White petticoats at 7s. 6d. ... 2 6 0
6 Nun's-veiling or flannel petticoats
at 6s. 6d. 1 19 0
6 pairs cashmere stockings at 2s. 6d. . 15 0
6 pairs fine lislo thread at Ss. 3d. . . 19 6
3 pairs silk stockings at 10s. 6d. . . Ill 6
2 dozen handkercliiefs at 15s. 6d. per
dozen 1110
4 lace handkerchiefs at lOs. 6d. each .220
Good dressing-gown 2 0 0
£ 8. d.
Summer dressing-gown 110
2 Dressing jackets at 12s. 6d. each .15 0
1 pair quilted satin bedroom sUppers 3 6
Veils, neckwear, scarves, &c. . . 1 10 0
£129 6 8
The balance of 13s. 4d. may be expended upon
a pretty night-dress case, and a brush-and-corab
bag.
The trousseaux lists given comprise only the
clothing. Travelling bags, trunk and dress
baskets will of course make extra items in
each case. All luggage should be as neat as
possible.
SCHOOL OUTFITS
For a Girl
4 Night-dresses.
1 Dressing-gown.
1 pair bedroom slippers.
1 Night-dress bag and 1 brush-and-comb bag.
3 pairs woollen combinations.
4 pairs cotton combinations or 4 chemises and
4 pairs of drawers.
2 pairs knickers with 2 linings.
2 peiirs stays with suspenders.
3 Princess petticoats.
6 pairs stockings.
\\ dozen handkerchiefs.
3 Bath towels.
3 Face towels.
Toilet requisites.
1 Writing-case with paper, &o.
1 Cewh-box with lock and key.
1 pair kid gloves, 1 pair evening gloves.
Ties according to regulation.
1 Rug.
1 Music case (flat).
The above list represents ordinary require-
ments ; special garments may bo necessary ac-
cording to the sports and games played at the
school. At fashionable schools a larger outfit
will bo necessary.
For a Boy
1 Sunday dress suit.
2 Tweed suits (longs or knickers according to
school regulations).
1 Overcoat. 1 Dressing-gown.
1 pair bedroom sUppers.
Toilet requisites, brush, comb, &c.
3 Wliite dress shirts, 4 flannel shirts.
8 Linen or flannel collars (according to school
regulations).
3 Sunday collars (according to school regula-
tions).
of suit worn).
1^ dozen handkerchiefs.
1 Black necktie, 2 school neckties.
1 Tall hat and hat-box for Sundays.
1 Umbrella. 1 pair garters.
1 pair kid gloves, 1 pair woollen gloves.
1 School cap. 1 pair cuff links.
Cash- box and writing-case.
1 School muffler.
3 Bath towels, 3 face towels.
Extras for Winter Term
2 pairs football shorts (blue).
2 pairs football shorts (white).
2 Football jerseys.
1 Football blazer and belt.
2 pairs football stockings. 1 Sweater.
1 pair football boots.
Extras for Summer Term
4 pairs white shorts or longs (according to
school regulations).
2 pairs blue shorts.
4 Cricket shirts.
1 Blazer and belt.
2 pairs cricket shoes.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
The word " etiquette " simply means " ticket," and is the " label " attached by an unwritten
convention to the best observances in the social life of well-bred people. In tliis chapter the fvmda-
mental principles of etiquette are described, and the chief rules which govern its observance are
enumerated in a manner which it is hoped will be useful to many a woman who is in doubt how to
act upon various social occasions.
Tact. - It has been said that the essence of
all good breeding is tact. A tactful woman is
essentially a woman who knows how to adapt
herself to varying circumstances, who has that
keen perception which enables her to see and do
what is best upon occasions when discrimination
between the ^iVTong and the right methods of
action is necessary. A tactful woman is one
who will never hurt another's feehngs. She will
always respect the Uttle foibles of her friends
and refrain from holding them up to ridicule.
Wlien she entertains, she is past master in the
art of asking the right people to meet each other
and of making them all feel at their ease in her
society.
" I Hke going to Sirs. Brown's ; she does know
how to make you feel at home," is a phrase often
heard in speaking of a tactful hostess. On the
other hand, " You will not enjoy yourself at
Mrs. Jones'. There is always an atmosphere of
stiffness in her house. You never feel at home
there somehow," is a warning often given when
reference is made to a hostess whose disregard
for the comfort of her guests and want of tact
generally is proverbial upon these occasions.
There are some people who have a genius for
" rubbing their friends up the wrong way." The
society of these women as a rule is shunned.
Others are well known for their agreeable and
charming manners. These women become
popular with every one, no matter how plain and
homely their appearance may be. Comment is
often made upon the fact that plain girls as a
rule get married sooner than their fairer sisters.
The reason is not hard to seek. The latter have
grown into the habit of looking upon homage
and adulation as their right. " Self " is the
keynote of interest in their lives, and in the
worship of self they neglect to cultivate that
all-potent charm of manner founded upon true
innate unselfishness and tact, in which their
plainer sist^ers as a rule excel. When beauty
and tact are allied in on^ person, then her charm
825
is indeed irresistible, while sad indeed is the
case of the woman who possesses neither the one
nor the other.
Manners. - In the cultivation of tact, good
manners are essential. " Manners makj-th Man "
and woman too, for if good manners are so
essential to man, are they not then indispensable
to woman, whose great object in life is to please ?
A lady's manners should be perfect upon
all occasions. Manners cannot be donned
and discarded at will. To be ill-mannered and
churhsh in the home circle and keep one's best
manners, hke a visiting toilette, to be donned for
the benefit of strangers, is as iU-ad\'i3ed as it is
inefficacious. Politeness assumed in tliis way
inv£iriably comes with an effort, and is only too
often apt to degenerate into mere affectation.
Practise good manners with your own people
if you wish to shine before strangers. The
manners of a gentlewoman are always character-
ised by their perfect ease and naturalness, and
how can this ease be possibly acquired if poUte-
ness is only assumed for special occasions ?
Much of that stiff, artificial demeanour displayed
by so many of our young people is due to the
fact that, instead of being taught good manners
in their childhood, they are expected to assimilate
the whole of the rules of etiquette, poUteness
and good breeding in the few months which
immediately precede their coming out.
The effect of this mistaken training is lament-
able in most circumstances, for the polish ac-
quired in this way at the last moment is of so
thin a veneer that it very often only serves to
accentuate that native gaucherie which it wm
intended to conceal.
We all pay a silent tribute to the mother who
initiates her httle three -year-old toddler into
the mysteries of how and when to raise his
diminutive cap as soon as he is promoted to
knickerbockers. All mothers should pay particu-
lar attention to the manners of their children.
" As the twig is bent so will it grow," and by
326
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
dint of careful traiiung politeness becomes
innate with the little ones, so that when they
grow up their claim to the title of " gentleman "
or " gentlewoman " will be recognised by all
with whom they come into contact.
Etiquette. - Every gentlewoman should be thor-
oughly acquainted with that code of manners
which falls under the general designation of the
word " etiquette." To many people the word
etiquette conveys the meaning of mere empty
forms and ceremonies which can be honoured
just as well in the breach as in the observance.
This is a mistake. We have defined tact as a
keen perception for seeing and doing what is
best in varying circumstances. Etiquette tells
us what to do to keep within the rules of polite-
ness and good breeding. It is obvious, therefore,
that in the practice of tact a knowledge of
etiquette is all -important. jMany an otherwise
tactful woman has given offence by her ignorance
of social rules, more especially in regard to the
rule of precedence. A knowledge of etiquette
in these circumstances would have saved her from
making a mistake of a kind so often bitterly re-
sented by the person at whose expense it is
made.
Etiquette in Olden Times. - Every period of
liistory has had its recognised code of manners,
and though the etiquette of our forefathers
differed considerably from our own social rules,
yet the governing principles of true poUteness
have always had their foundation upon the
pr£ictice of true kindliness, courtesy and con-
sideration for others ; for " Manners are not
idle, but the fruit of loyal nature and of noble
mind."
It must bo said, however, that the ideas held
by our forefathers upon the outward observances
of refinement and culture as decreed by their
laws of etiquette, differed very considerably
from the standard of manners at the present day.
Customs invariably change, and with the change
of custom our ideas also undergo a considerable
metamorphosis, so that what was allowable in
former times would in many cases be looked
upon with horror at the present day. In the
same way our descendants will probably look
back upon the twentieth century as a period
of positive uncouthness as compared with the
standard of incre£ised cultiu-e they will have
attained.
In a little book, intended sw a guide to gentle-
women as to their behaviour and deportment
upon all occa-sions, which was published in 1086,
some interesting rules are laid down as to the
etiquette and suitable behaviour of the lady of
the 1 eriod. This ingenious little volume, which
bears the somewhat quaint title, " The Accom-
plished Ladies' Rich Closet of Rarities, or The
Ingenious Gentlewoman and Servant Maids'
Delightful Companion," casts a most interesting
sidelight upon the manners prevailing in England
Just after the reign of the *' Merrie Monarch."
Indeed, it may be taken for granted that they
were also de rigueur during that same interesting
period which has generally been looked upon
as ono of the most pictiu-esque epoclis of our
history, when courtUness and gallantry were
raised to the level of a fine art. Yet from the
manners of the times, as detailed in this book,
it will be seen that much was permissible in the
code of etiquette which prevailed in the seven-
teenth century which would be looked upon
nowadays with amazement and disgust.
For instance, the following precept laid down
for the observance of the lady in society, " If
you are abroad at dinner lot not your hand be
first in any dish," is decidedly reminiscent of a
time when knives and forks were not regarded
as indispensable to the dinner-table equipment.
And again, " Whenever you carve, keep your
fingers from your mouth ; throw not anything
over your shoulder," would suggest that it was
quite usual for a fair carver in the days of the
Stuarts to convey surreptitiously the dainty
morsels to her mouth through the medium of
her fingers, instead of placing them upon the
plates of her guests, and to summarily dispose
of any excess of fat and skin upon a joint by
promptly throwing it over her shoulder !
It requires an effort of the imagination to think
of the stately dames of the period behaving in
this fashion, and if such were the manners of the
gentler sex, what must have been the poUte
behaviour of those cavaUers of the long perfumed
ringlets and picturesque dress which outrivalled
in its richness and elegance the attire of their
ladies. Picture those effeminate white hands,
adorned at the wrist with dainty lace ruffles,
dipping for some coveted tit-bit in the gravy !
Evidently curiosity has always been the
besetting failure of the fair sex ; yet nowadays
no lady would require the following caution :
" Be not inquisitive (for that is uncomely) to
know what such a Fowl or such a Joynt cost,
nordiscourseof Bills of Fare "; - and even though
inordinate love of the good things of this viorld
might be her besetting sin, she would not require
to be told, " Take not in your wine or other
liquor too greedily, nor drink until you are out
of breath. Eat not your spoon meat so hot that
it makes your eyes water, nor bo seen to blow it."
Some rules laid down for the deportment of a
gentlewoman when out walking are worthy of
comment : -
" Observe that you walk not carelessly or
lightly, shouldering as it were your companions,
nor strutting or Jutting in a proud manner.
Keep your head steady, your countenance not
too much elevated nor too mucli dejected ; keep
your arms likewise steady, and throw them not
about a.s if you were flying. Let your feet
rather incline a little more inward than outward,
lest you be censured splay-footed. . . . Do not
run or go extreme fast in places of concourse,
unless great occasion require it, for in such
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
327
violent motions it is not always in your power
to keep your body steady ; nay, by too much
haste you may chance to fall ! " The following
caution, " Wink not too often, nor cast your eyes
ascance as if you squinted, neither keep them too
reserved, nor scornfully turn them away when
any object oSers," would seem to indicate that in
her beha\'iour out of doors the young maiden of
the period was often apt to go to somewhat
divergent extremes !
It is when we come upon a book of this kind,
handed down through so many years, that we
begin to realise the manners and habits of a by-
gone age. It indicates to us that then, as now,
a code of etiquette was absolutely essential to
the smooth working of society. The principles
of etiquette will always remain the same, but its
rules must needs vary with the passing of time
and fashion. Autres temps, autres moeurs - "and
other manners too " ; but the personal qualities
which make the effective foundation of all good
manners are necessary if the " polish " imparted
by etiquette is not to be only a superficial one.
Etiquette of To-day. - Though we do not now
need to have such quaintly elementarj'^ rules of
etiquette drawn up for o\ir observance, yet the
fact remains that it is against the simple rules
of good breeding that the woman of to-day is
too often apt to transgress. It is in little things
more than anj^hing else that good breeding tells,
and the gentlewoman who wishes to justify her
claim to that title should aim at making her
manners upon all occasions, whether in the
family circle or at social gatherings, in the
drawing-room, at the dinner-table, out of doors,
in private as in public, beyond reproach.
How a Lady should Behave out of doors. - In
her behaviour out of doors the gentlewoman is
quiet and unassuming. She shuns any exag-
geration of dress and fashion which would make
her conspicuous ; it is not her aim to attract the
eye of the crowd, but to escape its notice. She
does not sweep the pavement %vith trailing skirts
or address her friends in loud tones. Neither
does she attract attention by her boisterous
laughter. The aim of the gentlewoman is to
escape notice out of doors ; that of the ill-bred
woman to attract it. Therein lies the difference.
It is the lady's privilege to bow first, if she
should meet a gentleman of her acquaintance.
The bow should be a gentle inclination of the
head, not a jerky nod, nor a movement so slight
as to be almost imperceptible.
A lady should also be the first to offer to shake
hands. It is no longer fashionable to raise the
arm in an exaggerated manner when shaking
hands.
It is not necessary to make introductions
between friends out of doors, excepting in the
case of a lady being out with another lady with
whom she is staying on a visit. In this case
she would introduce any friends she might
meet to her hustess.
Driving. - A lady should always enter a carriage
before a gentleman. If two ladies are driving
together, the lady of highest rank should enter
it fiirst, unless she particularly expresses a wish
that her companion should do so.
A visitor should enter the motor car or carriage
before her hostess.
When two ladies and a gentleman are driving
together, the ladies should take the front seat,
the gentleman sitting with his back to the
horses. In a motor car the ladies should also
occupy the front seat.
A gentleman should be always the first to get
out of a motor car or carriage, in order to assist
the ladies to ahght.
Young ladies shotdd always leave the place
of honour in carriage or motor to the elder
ladies.
Etiquette of the Table. - In no circumstances
are bad manners more noticeable than when
displayed at the table, whilst, on the other hand,
it is at the table more than anywhere else that
good breeding tells. To eat badly is to commit
one of the greatest offences against the laws of
poHteness, and of all vulgarities \T.ilgarity at
table is without exception the very worst. A
woman's innate refinement will often protect
her in tliis direction, and she is as a rule less apt
to err against the rules of table etiquette than
a man.
Apart from the elementary rules of table
politeness, however, there are certain laws of
etiquette governing the manner of eating
articles of food which, though found as a matter
of coxirse on the dinner-tables of the rich, are
usually absent from the tables of those only
moderately blessed with this world's goods,
for the simple reason that they are luxvu-ies that
cannot be afforded in the poorer household.
It is in these circumstances that a woman
endowed with good breeding but little means
finds herself at a loss at times when asked to
join the dinner-table of her wealthier sister. A
woman of refinement will generally piill through
the ordeal without committing any very glaring
faux pas - for if any uncommon dish (to her)
is put upon the table, she will wait and watch
how the others eat it. But the very fact of having
to do this involves a certain awkwardness of
demeanour caused by over-anxiety to do the
right thing and to avoid a mistake.
A woman should not be placed in tliis equi-
vocal position, however perfect her imitative
powers may be. She should always know what
to eat and how to eat it. With the elementary
rules of table etiquette everj'^ gentlewoman is
acquainted, but for the benefit of those who are
not quite au fait we give here the principal rules,
elementary and otherwise, governing the impor-
tant question of manners at the table.
How to Eat. - WTien you have taken your seat
at the table, remove j-our gloves, unfold your
serviette, taking from it the piece of bread or
328
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
roll, wliich you place at your left-hand side, then
spread the ser\-iette over your lap.
As soon as you are served at table, begin to
eat ; to wait for others is now considered ill-
bred-
Soup aliould be eaten with a table-spoon, and
taken from the side of the spoon. When the
quantity of soup on the plate is so small that it
cannot bo easily taken up by the spoon with
the plate in its normal position, gently tilt the
plate - not toweirds you, but away from you - so
that it can be taken up more easily.
Rissoles, mince, and other similar-made dishes
should be eaton with a fork only.
All sweets, where possible, should be eaten with
a fork alone.
A spoon and fork may be used for frmt tarts.
Either the spoon or the fork should be raised
to the mouth for the purpose of receiving the
fruit stones. In the case of plums and other
large stone fruit, it is better to separate the stone
from the fruit with the spoon and fork before
putting the fruit into the mouth.
In eating asparagus, where no small asparagus
tongs are pro\nLded, a knife and fork should be
used, and the points should be cut off and eaten
with a fork.
Salad is always served on salad plates. It
should be eaten with a knife and fork.
It is, of course, needless to emphasise that
the bones of game or poiiltry should not be
taken up with the fingers.
The knife should not under any circumstances
be raised to the mouth. When eating cheese,
small pieces of cheese are placed upon small
pieces of bread and so conveyed to the mouth
with the fingers.
In eating artichokes the outer leaves are re-
moved with a knife and fork ; the inner leaves
can then be taken up to the mouth with the
fingers.
Savouries, when possible, should be eaten with
a fork.
Oysters should be eaten with a dinner-fork.
Hold the oyster shell on the plate with the left
hand, remove the entire oyster with the fork,
which is held in the right hand, and convey it to
the mouth.
Fish is always eaten with a fish knife and fork.
FaiUng these, it may be eat"n with a fork and a
crust of bread.
The skin and stones of grapes and cherries
should not be ejected direct from the mouth to
the plate. The hand should be raised to the
mouth to recei%'e them.
Strawberries when served without cream can
be takon up by the stalks in the fingers. When
served with cream, the stalks should be separated
from the fruit with a spoon. Strawberries and
cream are eaten with a spoon and fork.
Pears, apples, peaches and nectarines are eaten
with a fruit knife and fork. The fruit is held on
the fork with the left hand and peeled with the
knife, wliich is held in the right hand ; it is then
divided into halves and quarters.
Oranges are divided into halves and quarters,
and each quarter is peeled separately as required.
Pineapple is eaten \\ath a dessert knife and
fork, and melon with a spoon and fork.
Finger glasses containing water are placed on
doyleys on the dessert plates. Both finger glass
and doyley should bo removed at the beginning
of dessert, and placed at the side of the dessert
plate. Wlien dessert is over, the fingers may be
dipped into the finger glass and wiped with the
serviette.
General Hints. - ^Never crumble your bread or
fidget with the table service ; to do so indicates
that you are unaccustomed to good society.
When not eating, keep your hands away from the
table.
Do not fold your serviette after dinner at a
friend's house ; leave it on the table before you.
When staying on a visit, however, a serviette
ring will be allotted to you for ordinary occasions ;
then the serviette would be folded and placed
in the ring.
Never take a second helping of soup or fish.
A hostess should never unduly press a guest
to partake of a certain dish, however hospitable
her motive may be.
INTRODUCTIONS
A knowledge of the rules of etiquette govern-
ing introductions between friends is of the
utmost importance for every woman, no matter
what her social position may be. The chief
things to be remembered in regard to making
introductions are : -
1. Introductions should not be made indis-
criminately without regard for the wishes of the
persons who are introduced to each other. An
introduction which is unwelcome to either one
or the other of the parties should be avoided at
all costs, as the person who does not desire the
acquaintance may in some cases feel compelled to
show by her manner what her feelings are upon
the subject.
Before introducing one person to another,
therefore, always find out if the introduction
will be acceptable to both parties. If the per-
sons are of different rank, it will be sufficient to
consult the person of higher rank before making
the introduction.
2. Always introduce a gentleman to a lady
irrespective of any question of rank. Precedence
in this manner is one of the privileges of the sex.
Always mention the name of the person you are
introducing first, thus : " Mr. X - Miss Z," would
be the correct formula, Mr. X being introduced
to Miss Z. This mere mentioning of the names
of the party is sufficient, but when it is wished
to adopt a Icps formal mothod the person making
the introduction might say, "May I introduce
Mr. X to you. Miss Z ? "
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
329
3. If seated, a lady need not rise when a gentle-
man is introduced to her, unless that gentleman
is her host, or else some clerical dignitary to
whom she should show respect by reason of his
office.
4. Upon being introduced both bow but do
not shake hands. If a lady offers her hand to a
gentleman, it is an act of grace on her part.
When introductions are made between ladies, the
lady of lower rank should be introduced to the
lady of higher rank. An unmarried lady should
be introduced to a married lady, unless the
unmarried lady is of a higher rank than the
married lady. Ladies only bow to one another
as a rule upon being introduced, but should the
lady of higher rank offer her hand, it may be
taken as a mark of favour on her part. When
ladies are of equal rank, the younger lady should
be introduced to the elder one.
6. A hostess should shake hands with every
one introduced to her in her own house. When
a person introduces two of her very great friends
to each other it would be qiiite correct for them
to shake hands. In the same way when a
young girl is introduced to an elderly lady, the
latter usually shakes hands as a mark of
kindness.
6. At a dinner-party it is customary for the
hostess to present the gentleman to the lady
whom he is to take in to dinner. It is not neces-
sary for her to ask the lady's permission before
doing so.
7. After dinner the hostess uses her own dis-
cretion as to what ladies she will introduce to
each other in the drawing-room.
8. Gentlemen continuing at the table over the
" walnuts and wine " talk with each other with-
out introduction.
9. At afternoon At Homes, garden parties, and
similar functions the hostess should use her own
judgment as to what introductions should be
made. She should introduce gentlemen to the
ladies in order that the former may look after
the needs of the latter in the way of taking them
to the tea-room. Gentlemen should always
realise what is expected of them on these occa-
sions and act accordingly. Acquaintances made
in this manner do not involve more than a bowing
acquaintance afterwards.
10. The lady should always be the first to bow
to a gentleman upon meeting him on subsequent
occasions.
11. Ladies do not rise from their seats upon
being introduced to each other on ordinary
occasions, or At Homes, or in the drawing-room
after dinner.
12. In ball-rooms the real responsibility for
introductions rests much more with chaperons
than with stewards. The latter can only
interpret according to their judgment the
advisability of introductions. If an introduction
is sought by a gentleman he is bound either to
dance, or at all events to jhow the usual civilities
of the supper -room, to the lady to whom he
sought to be introduced.
13. When two or three ladies call on the same
afternoon at the same house, the hostess gener-
ally feels it necessary to introduce them to each
other. Introductions so made will warrant a
bowing acquaintance.
Letters of Introduction. - It is not wise to be too
ready to give letters of introduction. Friends
feel bound to show special com-tesies and hospi-
tality to a person introduced to them in this
manner, however they may feel disposed towards
her.
Upon hearing that an acquaintance has the
intention of visiting some particular town, a
good-natured woman will often be heard to
exclaim, " Oh, I must give you an introduction
to Mrs. X. She is sure to give you a good time."
without pausing to think what IVIrs. X would
think of her suggestion. By giving introduc-
tions in this way, a woman must remember that
' she taxes both the coiirtesy and hospitality of
the friend to whom the introduction is addressed.
If her friend is in a superior rank of life, it is only
right to ask her permission before sending the
letter.
The letter of introduction should never be
closed, and the bearer should leave it with her
card without asking to see the hostess.
If the latter is well disposed, she should as soon
as possible send an invitation to dinner or aa
At Home, or any similar function.
THE ETIQUETTE OF VISITING CARDS
There is much in the etiquette of card-leaving
that is misunderstood, and many gaucheri&s are
habitually committed, through ignorance, in
contravention of the recognised rules governing
this important social custom. The leaving of
cards may be said to be the most efficient method
of regulating a lady's visiting list, forming an
unfaihng index to her choice of acquaintance.
It is also the means decreed by society for the
exchange of the various civiUties around which
the social wheel revolves.
The principal rules governing the etiquette of
cards are as follows : -
Style and Size of Lady's Card. - A lady's card
should always be plain in tj'pe, unglazed, and
free from any kind of ornamentation. In size
it should be from 3i to 3f inches wide and 2^
inches in depth. The name of the lady should
be printed in the centre of the card, and her
address in the lower left-hand corner. If she
has a country as well as a town address, the
second address may be printed in the opposite
corner. If she has an At Home day, tliis should
be printed or written across the top left-hand
corner.
A married woman should never have her
Christian name printed on her cards. If her
husband is the senior member of his fsmiily.
330
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
hor name would bo printed simply - " Mrs.
Brown." If he has a father or an elder brother,
then her husband's Christian name should be
used before the surname - " Mrs. James Brown."
How to leave Cards when making Calls. -
Ladies leave their visiting cards personally
when walking, not by servants or through the
post office.
When the Lady called upon is not at Home. -
When a married lady calls upon another married
lady and finds the latter " not at home," she
should leave her own card for the mistress of the
house, and two of hor husband's cards, one for
the master of the house and one for the mistress.
Excepting in the case of a first call, however,
a lady very often nowadays leaves only one of
her husband's cards in addition to her own, if
he is very well acquainted with her friend's
husband and they are constantly meeting.
When the lady called upon has a grown-up
daughter or daughters, the lady leaving cards
should turn down the right-hand corner of her
card to indicate that she wishes to include the
daughter (or daughters) in her call.
If the lady called upon is a widow, only one of
the caller's husband's cards should be left.
If the lady who is making the call is driving,
she should send her footman to inquire if the
lady called upon is at home. If he is told that
she is not at home, his mistress should hand liim
the cards to be left on her behalf.
When the Lady called upon is at Home. - When
the mistress of the house is at home, the lady
making the call should leave two of her hus-
band's cards on the hall table upon leaving. She
must not in this case leave her own card. If
her husband is very intimate with her friend's
husband and it is not a first call, it will only be
necessary to leave one of her husband's cards.
Cards are never sent up with the servant
when calling unless the call is of a strictly bzisiness
nature.
Leaving Cards upon Newcomers. - When new
people settle in a county district, the residents
should bo the first to either call or leave
cards upon them. This they can do without
having any previous acquaintance with the new
people. The latter should never, even if they
be of higher rank, call upon the residents first.
They should return call for call and card for
card, but if they do not wish to continue the
acquaintance, they can intimate this desire by
merely leaving cards in return for the call.
The custom of calling upon new people is
characteristic of county and country society,
but does not prevail in London and other large
citiett.
In leaving cards upon a friend who is the
guest of a person with whom the caller is im-
acqualnted, there is no need to leave a card upon
the hostess.
Except where the persons called upon are
living in hotels, it is " bad form " for visitors to
write upon the cards left the names of the persons
for whom they are intended.
Card Etiquette for Brides. - A bride should not
send out cards to hor friends or give an At
Home after the honeymoon is over. She must
wait for them to call upon her. A newly
married bride generally makes a point of being
at home in the afternoons during the first
fortnight after her return home in order to
receive the calls of her friends.
Difference between making Calls and leaving
Cards. - All the rules given above concern the
etiquette of cards in " making calls." But
there are instances in which cards are left apart
from the ordinary social function of paying
visits. In this case they are left as a mark
of civility or acknowledgment of civility or
hospitality received. When a card is simply
left it is not necessary to ask if the lady is at
home.
Calls should always be returned by calls and
cards by cards within a week or ten days at
latest, and care must be taken that a call is not
returned by a " card " only, or a " card " by
a " call." If a superior in rank should waive
ceremony and return a call for a card, this mark
of extra civility may be taken as a compliment
by the recipient. If, however, she only repays
a call with a card, it is obvious that she does not
wish to improve the acquaintance.
Great punctiliousness should be observed in
regard to the returning " call for call " and
" card for card " etiquette, otherwise, apart from
the gaucherie involved by ignorance of these
social rules, a slight may be conveyed where
there is no intention of showing one, and positive
offence given to the person slighted in this
manner.
Leaving Cards after Entertainments. - After the
following entertainments cards should be left by
all invited (whether present or not) witliin a
week of the entertainment : balls, weddings,
receptions, private theatricals, amateur concerts,
dinners.
Dinner Calls. - Only after dinner-parties need
you ask if the hostess is at home. In this case,
what is called a " dinner call " is made. In the
other cases card-leaving is sufficient. It is not
necessary to leave cards after a luncheon party
or an ordinary At Home.
Cards " To Inquire." - Cards to inquire after
friends who are ill are left in person, and must
bear simply the words written above the printed
name - " To inquire after Mrs. ." In the stage
of convalescence there comes in return through
the post an ordinary visiting card with the words
written above the name, " With thanks for kind
inquiries." In the case of an accouchement " to
inquire " cards are either left personally or by
servants.
P.P.C. Cards. - P.P.C. or Pour Prendre Conge
- " to take leave " - cards are usually loft upon
their friends by people who are going away
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
331
for a period of from three to six months, or who
are leaving a neighbourhood for good. These
cards should be left within a week or ten days
of departure, oither in person or by servants.
In large cities arrivers intimate their arrival by
leaving cards upon friends who otherwise might
not know of it. Ladies having a large circle of
acquaintances very often in these circumstances
send their cards to their acquaintances by a
man-servant, or in some cases give a list of
addresses to their stationers who undertake to
send the cards out.
Wedding and memorial cards are now out of
fashion.
Card Etiquette for Young Girls. - A young un-
married girl does not have cards of her own, but
has her name printed underneath her mother's
name on her mother's cards. This is also the
case where there are several young daughters
who are " out." It is always better form to
have each name printed separately under the
mother's name, though if there were foiu" or five
grown-up daughters the term " The Misses "
would be permissible.
When young girls are chaperoned in society
by friends, their names should be written in
pencil under the names of the ladies chaperoning
them on the visiting cards of the chaperons.
When a girl is on a visit without lier parents,
and wishes to call upon a friend, she should use a
card on which her name and that of her mother's
is printed, crossing out the mother's name in
pencil. Unmarried ladies past their first youth
should have their own visiting cards.
The Motherless Girl. - Very often through the
death of her mother a young girl suddenly finds
herself head of her father's house, and responsible
for all its social observances. Though used to the
routine of calls and card-leaving as discharged by
her mother, she will find that in her case circum-
stances are slightly different. There are rules
of etiquette governing a young girl's social
observances when left in this position, and she
should make herself au fait with these before
embarking upon the additional social duties
enforced upon her in these sad circumstances.
When a girl has no mother, her name is usually
printed under her father's name upon his card,
which in this case are of the style and size of a
lady's card.
When returning a call upon a married lady who
is not at home, one of these cards (with the name
of father and daughter) should be loft. If her
father is well acquainted with the husband of the
lady callod upon, there is no need to leave one of
his personal cards as well ; but if, on the other
hand, the two men are only slightly acquainted
with each other, it will be necessary to do so.
If the lady called upon is at home, only one of
the father's personal cards should be left.
In calling upon a widow, one of the cards with
the father's and daughter's names should be
left. If the widow hao a daughter, a comer
of the card should be turned down to include her
in the call. If the daughter is middle-aged, a
separate joint card of father and daughter should
be left for her.
Leaving Cards after Entertainments. - After
being invited to a ball, reception, or other similar
function given by married people, a joint card
of the father and daughter should be left within
a week of the function ; and as this comes under
the category of card -leaving as acknowledgment
of civiUty and hospitality, there is no need to ask
if the mistress of the house is at home.
After a dinner, however, a call should be
made, the father accompanying his daughter if
possible. If he does not do so she should leave
two of his personal cards on departure.
If an aunt or other relative of the motherless
girl should come to Hve with her, the social duties
would of comrse fall upon her as chaperon. In
this case the girl's name would be printed on
her chaperon's cards, and the etiquette observed
would be the same as during her mother's life,
until the chaperonage is dispensed with.
Gentlemen's Cards. - In size a gentleman's card
is usually 3 inches wide and 1^ inches deep. His
name should be printed in the centre of the card
and always with the prefix " Mr." (if he has
no higher title). Printing the Christian and
sin-name without any prefix, as in " James
Brown," is not considered good form. An
officer in the Navy adds R.N. or R.I.M. (Royal
Indian Marine) after his name, but no King's
Counsel, Member of Parliament or Doctor of
whatever faculty adds K.C., M.P., LL.D., D.D.,
to their card names. Baronets and Knights,
until recently, were simply " Sir James Brown,"
without Bart, or Kt., but since the Lord
Chamberlain's instructions that baronets attend-
ing Courts shoiild have their rank of baronet on
their cards, it is usual for them to indicate their
rank on their printed visiting cards. Officers
in the Army have the name of their club down
in the left-hand corner, and the name of their
regiment down in the right-hand corner.
In calling upon married people, a gentleman
leaves two cards - one for the mistress and the
other for the master.
A gentleman should not turn down the corner
of his card ; liis call is upon the host and
hostess, and not upon the young ladies of the
house.
Calls are not made nor cards left by a gentle-
man upon new acquaintances, however pleasant
they may have been to him at a dinner or ball
in another person's house, without a clear
intimation from the lady that a call at her
house would be agreeable to her.
The same rules apply to gentlemen as to
ladies with regard to leaving cards after enter-
tainments.
Bachelors call upon bachelors after receiving
hospitality, unless they are upon such intimate
footing as to dispense with ceremony.
382
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
INVITATIONS
There are certain pointa of etiquette to
be observed in regard to sending invitations.
In\'itation3, it must be remembered, are of
two kinds, formal and informal. Ail formal
in\'itations are printed on special cards and
worded in the third person - wliilst for in-
formal occasions, such as a luncheon party, or
a small tea party, the invitation usually takes
the form of a short note, or else it may be
written on a %4siting card. A hostess should
guard herself from falhng into the error of
issuing an informal invitation for a formal
occasion, or a formal invitation for an informal
function - for to do either would indicate that
she had a lack of that savoir faire which sets
a hall mark upon social entertaining.
Dinner Invitations.- Dinner invitations are
issued in the name of both the host and hostess.
If the host is a widower with a young daughter,
the invitations are issued in the name of both
himself and his daughter. In the case of a
brother and sister who hve together the invita-
tions would be issued in the name of both
brother and sister. The following is the usual
form for printed dinner invitations : -
"Mr. and Mrs. Black request the
pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. Brown's
company at dinner, on Tuesday, the
ith of January, at 8 o'clock."
The reply, if acceptance, should take the
following form : -
" Mr. and Mrs. Brown accept xoith
pleasure Mr. and Mrs. Black's kind
invitation to dinner on the Qth of
January."
Invitations to At Homes. - An invitation to
an At Home should be sent in the name of
the hostess only. At Home invitations are
printed upon At Home cards - the name of the
hostess, with the words " At Homo " under-
neath it, being printed in the middle of the
card, with the day and date underneath the
words " At Home." The address should be
printed on the right-hand corner at the bottom
of the card, and any amusement provided for
the guests should be added on the left-hand
corner. The letters R.S. V.P. may be written
or printed on the card, but in the case of an
afternoon At Home it is not usual to add them,
as answers as a rule are not expected to these
functions. If an answer is required, however,
the letters R.S. V.P. should be added. The
name of the person invited should be written
in ink on the top loft-hand corner.
Balls and Dances. - Invitations to balls and
dances are sent out on ordinary At Home
cards, the word " Dancing " being printed in
the corner of the card. The word ball should
never be used on the card, the same form of
invitation being used for both small dances and
large balls ontaihng a most lavish expenditxu-e.
An acceptance to a ball invitation is WTitten
on ordinary notepaper. The following is the
usual form of acceptance : -
"Mr. and Mrs. Black have much
pleasure in accepting Mrs. Brown's
kind invitation for Friday, the 6th
of yovember."
Garden Parties. - Invitations to a Garden
Party should bo issued in the name of the
hostess upon " At Homo " cards. Any outdoor
amusement provided, such as tennis, should be
written in the lower left-hand corner of the
card. It is also usual to add the words " and
party " after the name of the person invited.
When Garden Parties are given on a very large
scale, the invitation may take this form : -
"Mrs. A. requests the pleasure
of Mr. and Mrs. B.'s company at a
Garden Party on "
Weddings. - Wedding invitations are now very
plain. Black lettering is much more used than
the silver lettering which was formerly con-
sidered indispensable, although the latter still
has a certain vogue. Tlie invitations may be
printed on sheets of notepaper which form a
kind of combination of a notepaper sheet and
envelope, having a flap at the upper end which
is folded over and so posted ; or they may be
issued on a simple card with envelope to match,
or printed on ordinary notepaper. The word-
ing should be as follows : -
" Mr. at\d Mrs. Crane request the
pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. Mason's
company at the vianiage of their
daughter Laura, with Mr. Reginald
Dark, on Monday, \7th June, at St.
Paul's, Knightshridge., and after-
wards at 2 Eaton Square.
R.S.V.P."
Acceptances and Refusals. - Formal invitations
sent in the third person should be answered in
the same manner if the answer is an acceptance.
In sending a refusal it is always more courteous,
however, to give some explanation, and this
should in the case of intimate friends be written
in the third person. Thus : -
" Mr. and Mrs. X. regret that
absence from town prevents them
from accepting Mrs. Z. 's kind invi-
tation for the ith of November."
is more courteous than : -
" Mr. and Mrs. X. regret that they
are unable to accept Mrs. Z.'s kind
invitation for the 4th of July."
Although printed cards of refusal are in use,
it is always more courteous to send refusals in
writing. In some cases it happens that though
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
333
one member of the family invited to a dance
or other party is prevented from some reason
from accepting, yet the other members are able
to accept. The circumstances in a case of the
kind should always be explained by letter.
Thus:-
"Dear Mrs. X.-l regret that I
shall be out of town on the day of
your dance, or I should have much
pleasure in accepting your kind in-
vitation. My sister, however, will
be at home, and will be very pleased
to accept. - Yours sincerely."
GeDeral Hints regarding Invitations. - Formal
invitations need not be given to luncheon parties,
smaU informal At Homes, nor christenings.
One invitation card is sufficient for the
husband, wife, and daughters of a family, but
separate cards must be sent to the sons.
Invitations should always be answered
promptly.
In inviting a friend to stay with her on a
visit, a hostess shouJd always be careful to
specify the exact time the visit is to last.
The title, " the Honourable," is never written
on cards of invitation.
PAYING AND RECEIVING CALLS
Paying Calls. - A strict observance of the
etiquette governing the paying and returning
of calls is all -important, as any neglect or ignor-
ance of the rules of visiting exposes the oiTender
to the danger of receiving the " cold shoulder "
from her friends, so.netimes to the extent of
being excluded from all their dances. At Homes,
and other entertainments.
A mother with grown-up daughters should be
especially punctihous in this direction. Many
mothers, once their daughters have attained
years of discretion, show the inchnation to shift
most of their social duties upon the shoulders of
their girls. This is a great mistake. Once her
daughters are " out," a mother should be more
than ever on the alert in regard to her social
obligations if she h£is their welfare at heart.
It should be her endeavour to see that they get
asked out to the right places to meet the right
people, and that every opportunity is given them
of meeting desirable friends and making suitable
marriages. If she withholds these opportunities
from them by any laxity in the performance of
her social obligations, then she fails most
lamentably in one of her most important duties
towards them.
Etiquette for the Visitor. - All caUs should be
returned within a week or ten days. If the
person on whom the call is due has an At Home
day, the call should be made on her At Home
day. Afternoon calls, or " morning calls,"
as they ure often designated, are made between
the hours of ^ and 6 o'clock, a first or strictly
formal call being usually made before 4.30,
If driving when making a call, a lady should
send her footman to inqxiire if llrs. X is at
home.
If Iklrs. X is not at home, she should give him
the necessary cards to leave (see p. 330).
If walking when making the call, she should
ask the servant who answers the door, " Is ilrs.
X at home ? " If the answer is in the negative,
the necessary cards must be left (see p. 330).
If, however, the answer is in the affirmative,
the visitor should follow the servant to the
drawing-room, giving her name to the servant
to be announced.
Never give a visiting card to the servant when
the mistress of the house is at home.
The hostess will advance to meet the visitor
and shake hands with her ; the \'isitor should
then take a seat and engage in conversation
with her hostess.
A visitor should ciiltivate ease and self-
possession in conversation and manners. A
flurried manner will show that she is not accus-
tomed to go out much into society.
When a second guest is announced, the first
guest should take her leave as soon as possible
afterwards.
It is not necessary for a lady to rise when
introduced to another \a8itor.
Wlien one \isitor leaves, it is not necessary
for the other to rise. Visitors who have been
introduced to each other at an afternoon call
merely bow upon lea'vdng. They shoxild also
bow if they have spoken to each other without
being introduced.
When the visitor is a gentleman, he should
leave his hat and stick in the hall upon arrival.
Formerly it was the custom for men to take their
hats and sticks with them into the drawing-
room when making calls, but this has now been
superseded by the newer custom.
A gentleman visitor should hand round the
tea and cakes to the ladies. When a lady rises
to leave, he should open the drawing-room door
for her. He should of course rise each time
another visitor enters, as no gentleman should
remain seated whilst his hostess is standing.
Receiving Calls. - A lady should always be
careful to intimate to her parlour-maid early each
afternoon if she will be at home or " not at
home " to callers. When a servant is not sure
that her mistress is free to receive visitors, and
has to make the inquiry whilst the caller waits,
if she comes back with the answer " not at home,"
it might often be interpreted by the caller as
meaning that the lady called upon is at home to
other people but not to her. For this reason
it is always better to give definite instructions
as to callers early in the afternoon.
The mistress of a house cannot be too care-
ful in training her servants as to their correct
attitude towards callers. Even the soUtary
" general " can be made to understand that it
is great discourtesy to leave a caller upon the
334
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
doorstep whilst she goes to find out if her
mistress is in ; and yet this has been done time
after time in houses where the mistress is either
careless in regard to the training of her servants,
or else is notau fait herself in the social rules.
If a servant is in doubt as to whether her
mistress is " at home," she should ask the caller
to come in, saying, " Will you come in, please,
while I inquire," returning as soon as possible
with the answer.
\Mien the mistress of the house is at home,
the servant should reply to the inquiry in the
affirmative, stepping aside to allow the caller
to enter. On wet days she should reheve the
caller of her umbrella, any extra wraps, such £is
mackintoshes, cloaks, &c., and then preceding
her she should lead the way to the drawing-
room. Outside the drawing-room door the
servant should pause, making the inquiry,
" WTiat name, please ? " She should Usten
attentively to the name given by the caller, then
opening the drawing-room door wide, and
standing well inside the doorway - never behind
the door - she should announce the name of the
visitor clearly and distinctly. Should the
mistress, however, not be in the drawing-room,
she should merely say " My mistress will be
down directly," or words to that effect, and
should at once go to apprise her mistress of
the caller's arrival.
A servant should not knock at the drawing-
room door before ushering in visitors.
The hostess should never keep a caller waiting
whUe she hastily dons another dress. If she
has intimated to her servant her intention of
" being at home " she should naturally be pre-
pared to receive \'isitors, and should if possible
bo in the drawing-room during the calUng hoiu-s.
If she is in the drawing-room when the caller
is announced, she should rise to meet her, shake
hands, and offer her a chair near her own. If it
is a first call and the two have therefore no
intimate subject in common, she should lead the
conversation to topics of general interest which
are likely to appeal to almost every woman. It
should be the aim of the hostess to put her guest
at her ease, and encourage her to shine in con-
versation. The tactful hostess can converse and
stimulate conversation without an effort, and
without the assistance of the inevitable post-
card or photograph album, which form the in-
variable resource of the hostess in suburbia who
is unaccustomed to the etiquette of calls. (See
the Art of Conversation, p. .352.)
The servant should know that tea should be
brou;'ht up to the drawing-room as a matter of
course, and should bring it in at the usual time.
If, however, the call happens to be an unusually
early one, and the hostess is anxious that her
guest should be shown the usual afternoon
hospitality, she should ring the bell and indicate
that she wishes tea served at once and before
the usvial hour.
When the visitor rises to take her leave, the
hostess should ring the bell to intimate to the
servant that she should be ready in the hall to
show her out. If there is only one caller, the
hostess should accompany her to the drawing-
room door, or even to the top of the stairs,
W8iiting until she heis gone down, as an additional
mark of courtesy.
When one or two people call on the same after-
noon, the hostess should rise to receive each
caller.
It is always better to introduce the callers
to each other where there are only two or three.
Upon regulaj At Home days, when a number
of guests are present, it is unnecessary to do
this, the hostess using her own discretion as to
what introductions she will make ; but on
ordinary occasions when two or three callers
are in the room at the same time, it is always
more courteous to introduce them, if only for the
purpose of including them in the general con-
versation.
If, however, there is some potent reason why
an introduction would not be feasible between
two callers, a tactful hostess can manage to
draw them both into the conversation without
introducing them.
Tea is brought in by the servant, and placed
upon a small table near the hostess. Care
should be taken that the tea equipage is of the
daintiest - the silver brightly poUshed, the tea-
cups and saucers, tea-cloth and doyleys spot-
lessly clean, and that the cakes and bread and
butter are daintily and tastefully arranged.
The hostess should pour out the tea herself ;
she should also hand round the cups to her
guests, unless there is a gentleman present, when
he would be naturally expected to perform the
ordinary courtesies in this direction.
When there are two or more callers present,
the hostess should rise and shake hands as each
one takes leave, but she should not see each
caller to the drawing-room door. If any one
of the callers is of much higher rank than the
others in the room, however, it is permissible
for her to do so.
When the host is at home he might accompany
each departing guest down into the hall. This
would be a special mark of courtesy. In any
case he should see each guest to the drawing-
room door, waiting at the top of the stairs until
she has descended.
The At Home Day. - Many people with a large
circle of acquaintances set apart a day once a
week or once every fortnight to receive their
friends who wish to call upon them. This day
thus set apart is known as an At Home day, and
a lady always has her At Home day printed upon
her cards. The At Home day must not be con-
founded with the " afternoon At Home." The
latter is a social function or afternoon party on
a large scale, whilst the At Home day is merely
the regular day set apart by a hostess to receive
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
335
calls, and even although the circle of acquaint-
ances may be so large that the number of callers
on an At Home day is sometimes very great,
yet the two are quite distinct.
On her At Home days the hostess should of
course be in the drawing-room all the afternoon
ready to receive her guests ; tea should be
brought in at the usual time, and placed upon a
small table near the hostess.
A plate-stand containing thin bread and
butter, sandwiches, hot cakes, petits fours, or
other small fancy cakes, and cut cake, should
be placed near the tea-table. One of these
stands is almost indispensable for afternoon tea,
and the wicker ones can be obtained at very
moderate prices. The sandwiches should be
very deftly cut. They should be very tiny, and
are usually in shape of a small triangle. Water-
cress, cucumber, egg, potted meat and jam
sandwichbs are the most suitable for afternoon
teas.
Tea is usually brought in at about four o'clock
upon an At Home day. The mistress can always
ring for fresh tea when she requires it. Tea
should never be served in the dining-room ex-
cepting on the occasion of large afternoon At
Homes.
Some ladies make it a point of never being
" at home " to callers except upon their At Home
days. When a lady has an At Home day, her
friends should contrive to make their calls upon
that day.
At Home days are specially useful for people
who, living in tho town, have a large acquaintance
in the suburbs, or vice versd.
VISITING
The Guest. - When invited to stay at a friend's
house, the visitor should keep two things well
in mind :^
1. To conform to the rules of the household.
2. Never to outstay her welcome.
The time for the visit is usually specified by
the hostess, and the visitor should strictly adhere
to it. More often than not such a plirase as
" Can you not stay a little longer ? " is a mere
fa^on de parler on the part of the hostess, and
must not be taken literally.
In cases where the wish of the hostess is
manifestly sincere, and she asks you as a favour
to stay a little longer, do so if you can manage it,
but always remember that it is better to leave
too soon than to stay too long.
If you are just upon an ordinary visit to a
friend's house, and perhaps the only visitor,
your day will be well mapped out for you.
Always be punctual in yoiu- attendance at meals.
Be down in time for breakfast. In ordinary
middle-class homes, where a certain routine
prevails, breakfast is not served at all hours for
the convenience of guests.
When visiting friends, a certain amount of
tact is indispensable. Do not always be at your
hostess's elbow when she is busy with household
duties ; know when to be at hand and when to
make yourself scarce. If upon any occasion you
see that you are in the way, and that your
hostess is too much overburdened with a sense
of duty towards you to leave you to your own
devices, make some excuse in the way of letters
to write or some other similar plea, and so leave
her undistiirbed to whatever work she has in
hand.
Occasional little deUcate attentions on the
part of the guest, such as a gift of a few flowers,
are much appreciated by a hostess, conveying
as they do that the guest appreciates the trouble
that is being taken upon her behalf.
Dress. - What dresses to take with you on a
visit will depend altogether upon the position in
life of your hostess. If she is in very humble
circumstances it would be unkind to flaunt before
her eyes fine clothes with which she cannot hope
to compete. On the other hand, she would
resent it if, knowing you habitually dressed well,
you brought all your oldest and shabbiest clothes
to wear when staying with her. WTiatever the
circumstances, yovu- clothes should be always
fresh and neat. A trim tailor-made for morning
and outdoor wear is indispensable, with a good
supply of plain and dressy blouses. An afternoon
dress and hat, a smart demi-toilette for informal
evenings at home, and an evening dress and
cloak for going out to dinner-parties, &c., would
meet the sum of your requirements for a week's
stay.
Be careful that your boots and gloves are of
the neatest. A lady is known as such by atten-
tion to these details.
Luggage. - A common error into which women,
and especially young girls, fall when going away
for a short visit is in regard to the enormous
amount of luggage they take with them. This
on occasions proves a source of actual annoyance
to the hostess, especially if the luggage is of a
large and bulky nature. It not only gives extra
trouble to the servants in carrying it upstairs,
but on many occasions a particularly unwieldy
trunk has caused damage to the banisters and
wall-paper when being conveyed to the visitor's
room. In these days of neat compact luggage,
such a state of things is inexcusable. A neat,
light compressed cane dress-box for a week's or
even a fortnight's visit is sufficient, with perhaps
a small hat-box in addition, whilst often a good-
sized handbag will meet all the requirements of
a week-end \isit. \Vliatever luggage you may
take, be careful above all that it is light and of
normal size. Let it be as smart and fresh-looking
as possible. Shabby luggage invariably con-
veys an unfavourable impression, yet many
women are apt to be very negligent in this
important detail.
General Hints. - It should alwajra be the aim
of the visitor to give sis Uttle trouble as pos-
336
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
sible. She should in the first instance keep
her bedroom neat and tidy. Many young
girls have a habit of leaving their dresses here,
there, and everywhere about the room - teeiring
up papers and throwing them anywhere ; in
fact, leaving their tilings in such a general state
of disorder that it takes the housemaid quite
a long time to put the room stredght. This
is very thoughtless behaviour on the part of
the guest. She should bo careful always to
leave her bedroom scrupulously tidy. Upon
getting up in tlie morning she might strip the
bed of its bed-clothes, and open the windows
wide, seeing that all her dresses are neatly put
away before going down to breakf eist. She should
also be very careful not to leave books and
needlework Ijing about in the various reception
rooms.
WTiatever untidy waj's she may have fallen
into at home, she should be careful to be most
punctilious as far as orderliness is concerned
when away. Many hostesses are caused ex-
cessive annoyance by the untidiness of their
visitors - annoyance which is all the greater, as
etiquette forbids them to express their dis-
approval.
It is always a mark of cotortesy for a visitor to
write a letter to her hostess as soon as possible
after her return home, expressing the great
pleasure she has derived from her visit. Many
people dub this custom old-fashioned. This
it may be, but at the same time it is one of the
good old-feishioned customs which, happily for
the laws of poUteness, is still de rigueur.
Tips. - The question of tips is a vexed one
and the cause of much perplexity to the average
woman. Their amount will altogether depend
upon the extent of the establishment of your
hostess. Where only one servant is kept, for a
week-end visit 28. would be sufficient ; for a
week 3s. would about meet the case, and 5s.
would be ample for a fortnight's stay. Where
there are two servants, cook and housemaid,
the housemaid only need be given a tip, for it is
she who brings you your hot water in the morning,
attends to your room and sees to your comfort
generally. The same scale of tips as that
mentioned for the one servant would be suit-
able for her.
Where there are both housemaid and parlour-
maid, tips should be given to each upon the scale
alreeuiy mentioned.
A young girl is never expected to give so much
as a married woman, but her tip should in no
case be under 23. Two shillings would be ample
for % week's visit, where one or two servants
are kept. In houses where there are three
servants, she might give 28. to the parlour-
maid, and 2s. to the housemaid after a week's
visit.
Where a butler is kept a married lady staying
without her husband, or an elderly unmarried
lady, would naturally give him 5e. after a week's
staj'. Young girls are never expected to tip
men-servants.
The Hostess. - The hostess .should do all in her
power to make her guest's stay a pleasant one
without unduly fussing over her. The latter
attitude only serves to make the guest uncom-
fortable and mar her enjoyment. Let your
guest enjoy a sense of freedom, and do not always
give her the feeling of being tied to your apron-
strings. Study her tastes and try to conform to
them. See that everything in her room is in
order for her comfort - that the writing-table is
well furnished with notepaper and ink, and the
pin-cushion supplied with pins. The window-
ciu"tains should be clean and bright, and a few
flowers daintily arranged in vases would add
materially to the cheerfulness of the room. One
or two of the latest novels might also be placed
on the table, and a cosy easy-chair on which she
could recline and indulge in a qviiet read would
be much appreciated.
Attention to these little details go much
towards contributing to the enjoyment of the
visitor, betokening as they do the truly hospitable
hostess. Above all, let your visitor " feel at
home " in every way. This is the essence of
true hospitality.
Country House Visiting. - House parties at
country houses are very popular in society, and
in'vatations for these are most eagerly sought after.
The hostess usually specifies the time for which
the invitation is extended. In the case of a
visit of this kind, the obligation of leaving at
the proper time and not outstaying your welcome
is more than ever imperative. Necessarily the
number of bedrooms is Umited, and if a succes-
sion of visitors is expected, your room will be
required for the next visitor.
During your stay you will generally find the
morning hours free. Punctual attendance at
breakfast is not necessary. Breakfast is served
during certain hours, and each guest can serve
herself when she comes down. Many takj the
morning meal in their bedrooms. Luncheon
also is in most cases an informal meal, when
unpunctuahty is excusable, but never on any
account be late for dinner. Be in the drawing-
room at the required time beforehand, and
never absent yourself after dinner.
Try to make your hostess feel that you are
enjoying yourself, and bo pleasant and agreeable
to the other members of the party. Spare the
servants unnecessary trouble on your behalf, and
reward them suitably upon departing.
Tips. - Tips on the occasion of a country-house
visit amount to a not inconsiderable item of
expenditure, as the wealthier and higher the
position of your hostess the higher the rate of
tips expected by tl.j servants. It is a general
rule that men give more than women, and that
very little is expected from young girls. The
rule is to tip all those servants who perform
special services for you. Thus where a husband
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
337
and wife are staying together on a visit, the
husband tips the butler, valet, coachman, and
any other servant who has waited upon him,
whilst the wife tips the housemaid and the
maid who may have assisted her in dressing (if
she has not her own maid with her). The tips
for the maids are usually calculated at the rate
of a shilling per day for short visits, but the tip
should never amount to less than 5s. Where a
guest makes use of the services of her hostess's
lady's-maid, she should give the latter 10s.
The men-servants in large houses as a rule
expect gold from the gentlemen. An elderly
unmarried woman, or a married woman on a
visit without her husband, should also tip the
butler and coachman - 10s. to the butler, and 5s.
to the coachman for a week's visit would be
sufficient. A man, as a rule, would give double
these tips.
In the shooting season tips to the gamekeeper
f oiTn a very heavy item in the gentlemen's tipping
list. Gold is absolutely de rigueiir ; for one day's
partridge shooting the tip to the gamekeeper
would be £1, whilst the loader would get from
2s 6d. to 5s. Any defalcation in this direction
on the part of a guest would be repaid the next
season by his relegation to an impossible place
in the battue.
Dress. - Dress should be an all -important con-
sideration to the members of a country-house
party. Motoring and riding, as a rule, play a
prominent part in the amusements afforded. In
the summer, garden parties, lawn tennis and
croquet are almost a foregone conclusion. It
will be necessary therefore to take toilettes
suitable for each and every function. A neat
well-cut tailor-made is indispensable. It should
be of the latest fashion, and made to clear the
ground, as long skirts are particularly outre out
of doors in the country. In the hot weather
a good supply of dainty lingerie frocks will
be found useful. For dinner full evening dress
is always indispensable ; the ladies as a rule also
change their frocks for tea, smart afternoon
dresses being worn upon this occasion. Care
should be taken that the dresses taken upon a
country-house visit are all fresh and neat. The
woman of small means will find this question of
dress a great tax upon her resources ; but as she
cannot hope to vie in her toilettes with hor
wealthier sisters, let her soe that she is at least
dressed suitably for all occasions. Though her
dresses may be few in number, and in quality
and style may not come up to the art of a
Worth or a Paquin, yet if they fit well, and she is
always suitably attired, she may rest happy in
the knowledge that to be always suitably dressed
is to have acquired the art of dressing well.
ENTERTAINING
Dinners. - Dinner -giving is one of the favourite
methods of showing hospitality adopted by
society ; but rash indeed would be the host and
hostess who attempted to entertain in this
manner without a knowledge of dinner-party
etiquette.
Invitations for large dinner-parties are issued
three weeks beforehand ; in some cases even this
lengthy notice is extended, more especially if
the party is of great social importance. For
ordinary small dinner-parties, however, from a
week to ten days' notice is considered sufficient.
The invitation to a dinner is always issued in
the name of the host and hostess (see Invita-
tions, p. 332), and an acknowledgment (whether
acceptance or refusal) should come promptly
from the invited guest. People should always
be more prompt in answering invitations to a
dinner than in any other case. So much depends
upon just the right number of guests being
present and their suitable pairing ; and how can
a hostess make her arrangements in this direction
if she does not know until the last moment which
guests may be expected. Any discourtesy in
this respect is not soon forgiven by a hostess,
and the offendei is very often excluded from her
dinners in the future.
Punctuality at a dinner-party is another im-
portant rule. It is the height of discourtesy to
keep a hostess and her guests waiting ; always
make a point of arriving fuUy a quarter of an
hour before the time mentioned. 8.30 is the
usual hour for large dinner-parties in town,
though they may be given at any time between
8 and 9 o'clock. In the country, however, they
often begin as early as 7.30.
Ladies take off their cloaks upon arrival in
a room set apart for the purpose, whilst the
gentlemen leave their hats and coats in the hall
if there is no room set apart as a gentleman's
cloak-room. The servant precedes each guest
to the drawing-room and announces him or
her in the usual way (see p. 334). Formerly a
husband and wife upon being announced would
enter the drawing-room arm-in-arm. This
fashion is quite out of date now ; the lady
enters first, and is followed by the gentleman.
The host and hostess come forward to shake
hands with each guest.
Precedence. - The laws of precedence must be
strictly observed at all dinner-parties (see p. 356).
When dinner is announced by the butler (or
parlour-maid where there is no man-servant),
the host offers his right arm to the lady of highest
rank and leads the way with her to the dining-
room. The other couples follow in strict order
of precedence, the gentleman of highest rank
following last with the hostess. Husbands and
wives should not be sent down together. In the
dining-room the hostess takes the top of the
table, the gentleman who has taken her in to
dinner taking the place at her left hand. The
host waits standing in his place at the bottom
of the table until all his guests are seated - he
indicates the places they are to take as they
338
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
enter; the lady of highest rank seats herself at his
right hand. At large dinner-parties a card on
which the name of the guest is \vritten is usually
put before each place. A lady should always
sit at the right hand of the gentleman who has
taken her in to dinner.
At the conclusion of the dinner the hostess
bows to tlie lady of highest rank, and the latter at
once rises and leads the way from the dining-
room, followed by all the ladies in the order in
whicli they entered, the hostess following last of
all. The gentlemen rise at the same time as the
ladies, and remain standing until they have all
gone out. The host or gentleman nearest the
door opens it for them, and closes it after them.
In the drawing-room coffee is almost immediately
served to the ladies. Here the hostess may make
what introductions she thinks fit between her
lady guests. Coffee is taken to the dining-room
a few minutes afterwards, and the gentlemen
usually remain over their wine for about twenty
minutes, after which they join the ladies in the
drawing-room. The suggestion to rejoin the
ladies is usually made by the gentleman of
highest rank, who leads the way to the drawing-
room, the host following last.
All the guests shovdd shake hands with the
host and hostess upon departure, and the host
should conduct the lady guests who are unac-
companied to their carriages.
Selecting the Guests. - Much of the success of
a dinner-party depends upon the discrimination
exercised on the part of the 'host and hostess
in selecting their guests. It is always as well
to include one or two brilliant conversationalists
in their Ust. Good talkers are invaluable at a
function of the kind, and prove a great help to
the host and hostess. Needless to say, people
who are in any way uncongenial to each other
should never be asked at the same time.
To give a successful dinner-party is not such
an easy matter as it wovdd seem. Everything
depends upon the way it is arranged, and the
arrangement should be well and carefully
thought out beforehand. But " the best-laid
schemes o' mice and men gang aftagley," and
the guest who disappoints his or her hostess at
the last minute is often the means of upsetting
the most carefully -planned arrangements. Here
again the tactful hostess should not be at a loss.
If she hp.3 very many intimate friends and rela-
tions she can often prevail upon one of these to
fill the gap as a very great favour without incur-
ring the risk of giving offence. It would not do,
of course, to give a tardy in\'itation of the kind
to an ordinary friend or acquaintance. To do so
would be to commit a discourtesy which would
often be greatly resented by the ^person so
asked.
Some Hints for the Hostess. - A hostess must
avoid betraying any fussinoss and nervousness
of manner over little details that at times go
wrong at a dinner-party, however well it may be
organised. Some women sometimes fuss them-
selves into a veritable fever over trifling mis-
takes that more often than not no one else will
have noticed. A hostess should always be calm
and at her ease whatever happens - bright and
alert to the exigencies of conversation, having
the tact to divert it into different channels when
it seems to bear upon subjects which might not
be acceptable by all present. Given a tactful
host and hostess, the right people as guests, a
well-selected and well-cooked dinner, choice wines
and good service, the success of the dinner can-
not fail to be assured.
Luncheons. - There is a pleasing absence of
ceremony about luncheons that commends
itself to many, and for tliis reason luncheon
parties within recent years have attained a
considerable vogue. It is at luncheon that a
hostess is in the habit of entertaining her more
intimate friends, and the informal little gather-
ings at the luncheon hour are, as a rule,
wholly enjoyable both for the hostess and for
her guests.
Formerly at ordinary luncheons the servant,
after having handed round the first dishes, would
retire from the room leaving the hostess and
her guests to serve themselves to sweets. It is
more general now for the servants to hand round
the dishes and remove the plates after each
course, the guests helping themselves between
whiles ; whilst at strictly formal luncheon
parties waiting is de rigueur. Where there are
children in a family these are generally present
at the luncheon table.
When expected guests arrive at the luncheon
hour they are shown at once to the dining-room,
but should they arrive beforehand, the hostess
receives them in the drawing-room. The guests
do not enter the dining-room arm-in-arm as for
dinner, but singly, the ladies going first and the
gentlemen following them.
All the ladies should not sit together, however ;
each gentleman should place himself beside a
lady, if the places are not previously allotted
by the hostess. The hostess usually leads the
way with the lady of highest rank to the dining-
room, or the host should do so if he is present,
the hostess following last. The laws of prece-
dence are not usually strictly in force, although
it will be found that a woman of good breeding
will invariably make way for one of higher
rank than herself, so precedence is seldom
altogether disregarded even at an informal
luncheon party. Ladies should not remove
their hats for lunch, but they may take off their
wraps. When the host is present, the gentlemen
guests usually remain in the dining-room with
him for a short time after luncheon when the
ladies have adjourned to the drawing-room.
The hostess gives the signal for this adjourn-
ment to the lady of highest rank present, and
the latter leads the way out, the hostess following
last. Where the host is not present, however,
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
339
gentlemen and ladies leave the room at the
same time. Coffee is losually brought into the
dining-room at the end of luncheon.
Formal invitations are very rarely given to
luncheon parties, a verbal invitation in many
cases being deemed sufficient. Very Uttle
notice is necessary, but in the case of a formal
party a week's notice is sometimes given. The
usual hour for luncheon is from 1.30 to 2. It is
etiquette for the guests to leave as soon as
possible after the adjournment to the dravsing-
room, unless they are specially requested to
stay longer by the hostess. Strict punctilious-
ness must be observed in this respect.
Afternoon At Homes. - There is no more
favoiu-ite social fimiction for ladies, from both
the point of view of the hostess and the point
of view of the guest, than the afternoon At
Home. It is a form of entertainment that
recommends itself above all to the hostess of
limited means, because it is one that can be
effected upon quite a small scale, and at the
same time enables her to make some sort of
return for the hospitality she may have received
from her wealthier friends.
The kinds and styles of afternoon At Homes are
many and various. There is the large party
given on the scale of an evening reception, when
sometimes over two hundred guests are invited.
An At Home given on this scale necessitates
almost as much preparation as for an evening
reception. Usually on these occasions some
high professional talent is engaged for the en-
tertainment of the guests. At large At Homes
an awning should be '^ut up, and a carpet set
down at the front entrance, and cloak-rooms
should be provided. Refreshments should be
served in the dining-room from a long table or
buffet, and the tea and coffee shoxild be poured
out and handed round by the maid -servants,
the gentlemen usually helping themselves to
champagne cup or other refreshment. (For
refreshments given at large afternoon At Homes,
see p. 252.)
The lady guests are escorted to the tea-room
by the gentlemen.
At large At Homes the hostess should receive
her guests at the drawing-room door, which
should remain open, the hostess standing within
the doorway. Servants should always be in
attendance to call the guests' carriages as they
leave, and the hostess does not ring the bell to
signalise each departure as on the occasion of
afternoon calls.
Small At Homes. - Small At Homes are those
to which a small number of friends are invited,
and as a rule no special entertainment is pro-
vided. The hostess receives her guests in the
drawing-room as at afternoon calls (see p. 334).
Tea may be served in the dining-room or in
the drawing-room - generally in the former ;
although if the number of guests is very limited
it is better to serve it in the drawing-room. It
is handed round to the ladies by the gentlemen
present.
At large At Homes entertainments of some
kind are usually provided, but at small At
Homes the hostess should be on the alert to
entertain her guests. She should move amongst
them freely and join in their conversation.
The guests are free to move about as they like
and speak to their various acquaintances on
these occasions.
Invitations to large afternoon At Homes
should be sent out a fortnight in advance, and
for small afternoon At Homes a week in advance.
(See Invitations, p. 332.)
Bridge Teas. - Afternoon At Homes are some-
times given for the purpose of playing bridge.
Parties of this kind are known as Bridge Teas,
and they usually begin about 3.30. It is neces-
sary for the guest to arrive fairly punctually on
these occasions.
For a Bridge Tea an informal note of invita-
tion is usually sufficient.
Evening Parties. - Evening parties vary con-
siderably as to their quahty and extent, from the
briUiant official or poUtical reception graced by
all the shining Ughts of diplomacy and politics,
to the simple little social gathering at which the
guests must rely solely upon the host and
hostess, and the congenial company provided,
for their entertainment. The strictly official
and diplomatic parties axe termed " Receptions,"
and are occasions of the utmost formality. All
other evening parties are termed " At Homes."
At Homes may be given on a very large or upon
a very modest scale. At the large evening At
Homes some form of entertainment is usually
provided for the guests, and an elaborate supper
is one of the features of the evening ; whilst for
the smaller At Homes the entertainment is of
qviite informal nature, and only light refresh-
ments are served.
At large At Homes the hostess should receive
her guests at the head of the stairs or just inside
the drawing-room door, whilst the host is in the
drawing-room to welcome them as they enter.
The approach to the front entrance should be
carpeted, an awning should be put up, and a
servant should be in attendance to open the
carriage doors for the guests as they eirrive, and
to summon carriages and cabs for them as they
leave.
Cloak-rooms should be placed at the disposal
of both ladies and gentlemen, and tea and coffee
should be served to the guests as soon as they
arrive. The nature of tlie entertainment to be
provided is usually specified on the inxntation
cards - professional humorists at the piano,
raconteurs, &c. Pierrot troupes are now very
much the vogue for evening At Homes. The
hours for these evening functions vary from
about 10 or 10.30 till about 1, although At
Homes given on a Saturday should end at
midnight. Supper is served usually about
340
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
11 o'clock. Tlie host should take the lady of
highest rank present in to supper. On ordinary
occasions the hostess usually likes to see the
principal guests in to supper before following
herself ; but if she does not require to do tliis
she should follow the host with the gentleman
of the highest rank. When a royal prince is
present at a social function of the kind she
should lead the way to the supper -room with
the royal guest.
At small informal parties where hght refresh-
ments only are served, the gentlemen as a rule
escort the ladies to the room in which is the
buffet, and help them to whatever they require.
It is not necessary to take leave of the host
and hostess after receptions.
Hiring Suites of Rooms. - In many cases a
hostess is unwilling to turn her house topsy-
turvy for the sake of a large reception or an
evening party. In these circumstances she en-
gages a suit" of rooms at an hotel or elsewhere
in which to entertain her guests. Most of the
large hotels make the letting out of rooms for
these occasions a special feature of their business,
and will also undertake the entire catering if
required. Rooms other than hotel suites may
also be had suitable for the purpose ; town halls,
galleries, rooms belonging to various institutions,
&c., are let for these occasions, and may be had
for quite a moderate sura.
Caterers. - The large catering firms nowadays
cater for all sorts of parties at a certain figure
per head, sending their own trained servants,
and providing cutlery, glass, decorations, napery,
and everything necessary to the attendance and
table equipment. When a hostess is giving a
reception at her own home, she can do so with
the minimum of trouble if she has secured the
services of a good firm of caterers. The trained
servants sent out by these firms are all experts
in regard to the formalities required, and all the
usual incidental details which prove such a source
of anxiety to the hostess will be taken off her
hands. In small estabUshments manned by a
proportionately small staff of servants whore an
entertainment has been planned on a scale much
beyond the average resources of the household,
the caterer's aid is invaluable. And what is not
the least recommendation of the catering system
is, that everything is cleared away and the house
restored to its normal order within the least
possible time, and with the minimum of delay by
the assistants who are sent down for the purpose,
the household being usually enabled to resume
its normal routine on the very next day. Only
tiiose who have experienced the usual domestic
upheaval which follows any large entertainment
will be able to appreciate to the full extent the
benefit conveyed in this manner.
Bridge Parties. - " Bridge " forms the raiaon
d'Stre of another very popular kind of evening
party. A bridge party usually begins about nine
o'clock, and all the guests should bo punctual in
their arrival. In most cases prizes are awarded to
the winners in the game. There is a prize for
ladies and a prize for gentlemen. In some cases
second prizes are also awarded. The hostess
should show a httle discrimination in the selection
of the prizes, choosing articles that would be Ukely
to appeal to the recipients of both sexes. Some-
times very handsome prizes are given, but there
is no need to go to great expense as long as the
gifts are suitable. The card tables are usually
numbered, and small cards are given to the
guests as they enter, on which the number
of each table is specified, together with the
names of the four guests who have to sit at
each table. Coffee is usually brought in to the
drawing-room for the guests at the beginning of
the evening. Either supper or hght refreshments
are served during the evening. In most cases
supper is given at the end of the play about mid-
night or soon after, but in some cases it is served
earUer in the evening, and the play resumed
afterwards. The host leads the way to the
supper -room with his partner in the game. The
other partners follow, the hostess following last
of all with her partner.
Balls and Dances. - Dancing has ever been, and
ever will be, the favourite form of amusement
amongst the young people of both sexes ; it
follows, therefore, that the most popular enter-
tainment that can be given by a hostess is a ball
or a dance. A ball is a dance given upon a very
large scale. A great number of invitations ewe
sent out ; the arrangements for supper are
most elaborate, the floral decorations are of the
best, and a full band is engaged for the benefit
of the dancers. To give a ball in the true
sense of the word is to entail a very la\'i8h expon-
diture ; for this reason an entertainment of the
kind can only be contemplated by a hostess
who is abundantly furnished with this world's
goods.
At a dance the arrangements are not so
ambitious. The number of in\'itation8 issued
seldom amount to more than 100 to 150 ; the
decorations, though tasteful, are simple and not
costly. The supper is not upon such an elaborate
scale as that of a ball, and in many cases no set
supper is given, light refreshments served from
a buffet being considered sufficient, whilst the
music is often supplied by a pianist unaided by
other instrumentalists.
In issuing invitations for a dance, the hostess
should be careful not to ask more guests than
will be able to dance comfortably upon the floor
provided. There is no pleasure in the crowded
dance, when it is impossible for the dancers to
take two clear steps at a time without getting
into the way of some other couple. Excessive
crushes detract materially from every one's
enjoyment, and to avoid them should be the
first consideration. A good floor in the dancing
room is of the utmost importance. The floor
should be level and well pohshed ; for a small
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
341
dance a smooth drugget of brown Holland well
stretched over the carpet will be found to meet
all requirements, but in many houses nowadays
the floors are of parquetry, the carpeting con-
sisting solely of rugs which can easily be removed.
In these circumstances, as a poUshed floor is the
floor par excellence for dancing, the floor should
be polished. (For a good method of Floor
Polishing, see p. 66.) The hostess must have
a certain number of rooms to place at the dis-
posal of her guests. There should be a cloak-
room for the ladies, with a maid or maids in
attendance. Where a large number of guests
are present, it is as well to have books of dupU-
cate cloak-room tickets, a ticket to be attached
to each cloak, and the dupUcate handed to the
owner. A good supply of needles and cotton,
tape, pins, &c., should also be available, as
scarcely a dance passes without some Uttle
accident in the way of torn skirts and flounces.
The largest room should of course be devoted to
the dancing. The halls and landings might serve
as lounges. They should be tastefully arranged
with cosy chairs, palms and flowers. At large
dances there should be, in addition to the supper-
room, a room set aside for light refreshments,
which should be served tliroughout the evening.
This extra room would not be required at
smaller dances. A room should also be set
aside in which the gentlemen can leave their
coats and hats, as if the hall is utilised for the
purpose it does away with all possibility of its
being used for a lounge. Where the hall is so
small, however, that it could not be used for a
lounge in any case, tl.a gentlemen might leave
their coats and hats there, faiUng any other
room. The doors of the dancing-room are
usually removed for the occasion.
Where one of the reception-rooms has to be
utilised as a dancing -room, there is not so much
scope for decoration as in the larger establish-
ments with a regular ball-room. The room
should be well lighted, however, and it should if
possible be decorated in one colour scheme. For
instance, the lights could be shaded with pink
shades, the mantelpiece and fireplace could be
covered with banks of pink roses or pink
carnations. At very large balls the floral
decorations form a very considerable item of
expenditure - the banisters are decked with
veritable banks of flowers, floral arches are
erected over some of the doorways; in fact,
every available space is literally covered with
tastefully arranged blossoms. A decorative
scheme of the kind, however, is not as a rule
within the ken of the average hostess, but she
should make a point of introducing pretty
floral decoration wherever possible to add to
the charm of the surroundings.
It is always as well that some male friend or
relation of the hostess should be deputed to
fulfil the dutif^" of master '^f the ceremonies.
The daughteis of the house also should afford
their mother all the assistance in their power
before giving themselves up to the enjoyment
of the evening. Where a number of elderly
people are present as chaperons, cards or any
other similar entertainment might be organised
in another room, when space permits, on their
behalf.
Music. - The music shoiild always be of the
very best. A piano and one or two stringed
instruments form an ideal combination, but
where a piano' alone is provided, at all events
let the pianist be a professional well used to
dance music. There is nothing more trying for
the dancers than to be compelled to dance to an
indifferent musical accompaniment. Some one
should be at hand to take the pianist's place
when the latter has to go to supper. This is an
important detail which must on no account
be overlooked. One of the daughters of the
house, if a good musician, could well take the
place for this short interval.
Receiving the Guests. - The hostess should
stand at the head of the staircase or at the door
of the dancing -room to receive her guests. She
should shake hands -n^th the guests as they
arrive. Gentlemen and ladies do not enter the
dancing-room arm-in-arm. The ladies go first,
the gentlemen follow. Programmes with the
order of the dances are handed to the guests,
although at some of the largest private balls
dance pro^ammes have been to a great extent
done away with. The dance is usually opened
by the hostess herself, or if she has grown-up
daughters, by one of her daughters. It is
etiquette for the men present to ask the daughters
of the hostess for at least one dance. The host
should take the lady of the highest rank in to
supper. The laws of precedence in regard to the
other guests are usually waived at dances. As
a rule, they pair among themselves and follow
according to their inclination ; but the host
must always lead the way to the supper -room.
Fashionable Dances. - Among the favourite
dances now in vogue are the valse, quadrilles,
lancers, polka, two-step, cotillion and Sir Roger
de Coverley. A dance usually begins from
9.30 to 10 o'clock ; in the case of a small
dance, carriages as a rule can be called between
2 and 2.30, but the larger dances are carried
on till any time up to 4 in the morning. Cinder-
ella dances are so called because they end at mid-
night. Where a dance is given upon a Saturday
it usually takes the form of a Cinderella.
Public Balls. - Public balls are those for which
tickets are sold. It is always as well to form a
party to attend these functions, otherwise there
is not much chance of an enjoyable evening, it
being impossible to dance with people with whom
one is unacquainted.
County Balls form the chief events of the
season in the country. All the best people
invite large house parties for the purpose of
attending them, and the event as a rule is one
342
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
of some social importance. Charity balls and
ordinary subscription dances also come under
this heading of public balls. The dances of the
kind given in London are many and various, and
the tickets vary in price according to the scale
upon which the dances arc given.
Private Subscription Dances. - Sometimes pri-
vate subscription dances are got up amongst
friends. The arrangements are usually in the
hands of two or three ladies, who circulate the
news of the dance and the price of the tickets
amongst the people of their acquaintance. A
room and a band are liired, and the arrangements
placed in the hands of a firm of caterers. For a
dance of this kind to be a success a great deal
of organising capacity on the part of the pro-
moters is necessary.
Etiquette at Naval, Military, and Hunt Balls. -
These functions as a rule are brilliant in the
extreme. In the first two cases the officers, and
in the last case the members of the Hunt appear
in uniform, and the scene is usually very pic-
t\iresque. Large parties are usually formed for
attendance at these balls. It is always necessary
on these occeisions for the guests to bring their
cards of invitation with them and hand them to
the official in charge.
Juvenile Parties. - Christmas time may well
be called the cliildren's season, for it is the
pivot as it were round which all the juvenile par-
ties revolve. Most of them take place during the
Christmas holidays, and seldom is such whole-
hearted enjoyment manifested by grown ups
and little ones alike as on the occasion of a really
well -managed juvenile party.
These parties vary a great deal as to the nature
of the entertainment provided. Sometimes they
take the form of regular miniature balls with
dancing as the chief amusement, the tiny
partners copying in every way the manners and
etiquette of the grown ups. Parties of this kind
are more suitable for boys and girls of from
twelve years of age and upwards - the very tiny
tots are apt to become too precocious by frequent
attendance at miniature dances. On the other
hand, attending an occsisional juvenile dance
is good for the little ones, ineismuch as it has a
good influence upon their manners and goes a
long way towards curing any tendency to ex-
cessive shyness they may possess.
The best form of juvenile party, however, is
that in which dancing is combined with other
forms of amusements in which the very little tots
as well as the elder boys and girls may throw
themselves whole-heartedly into the enjoyment
provided. Old-fashioned games such as forfeits,
blind man's buff, &c., can bo indulged in, and
these should always be organised by one or two
of the younger grown ups who understand
children, and are not above taking a part in the
game themselves.
A magic lantern is also an entertainment
appreciated by the little ones, and at Christmas
time a Christmas tree from which presents are
distributed, a lucky bag, or a bran pie will be
found to appeal greatly to the juvenile idea of
enjoyment.
The time for children's parties depends to a
great extent upon the scope and charaxjter of
the entertainment provided. Four till seven
would be the correct time for an ordinary tea-
party with games. Five to ten is a favourite
time for parties on a more elaborate scale at
which dancing combined with games and other
entertainments are provdided. For a juvenile
ball, six to eleven is a favourite hour, very often
the proceedings terminating with a grown-up
dance as soon as the juvenile party is concluded.
Organising a Children's Party. - A children's
party requires careful organising. The necessity
for the company to include one or two grown ups,
who can arrange games and take part in them
themselves, has already been pointed out. Tea
should be served about half-an-hour after the
time notified for the arrival of the Uttle ones.
Plenty of bread and butter, cut cake and
cakes of all kind should be provided. If the
party is to be over very early and no other meal
is given, it is better to have tea later in the
afternoon, and to make jellies and creams a
feature of the tea menu, not omitting bon-bons,
which should always be provided at parties for
the little ones, as they invariably prove an irre-
sistible source of enjoyment.
Where several forms of entertainment are
given, at least three rooms should be at the dis-
posal of the httle ones, one for tea and supper,
one for dancing, and one for games. Tea and
supper could be served in the dining-room,
dancing could proceed in the drawing-room,
and the games could be held in the morning-room
or library. Failing this extra room, however,
the drawing-room could be made to do duty for
both dancing and games.
Tlie games should take place after tea and Isist
about an hour. After this the little ones nhould
have a short time for dancing, then the conjuring
or other entertainments could be giver. This
order of course can be varied in accordance with
indi\ndual requirements. Presents from the
Christmas tree are usually given towards the
end of the evening. (See Indoor Games.)
Light refreshments are usually provided for
the children before they leave, whilst at juvenile
balls a regular supper is provided. The hght
refreshments should include lemonade, sand-
wiches, jollies, creams, fruit, and ices where
possible.
Garden Parties. - The summer season has its
own special programme of entertainments which
occur year after year with unvarying regularity.
Chief amongst these is the garden party, a
favourite form of entertainment with both
young and old. June and July are the favourite
months for town garden parties, August and
September for those given in the country.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
343
Invitations are usually sent out three weeks
beforehand in the name of the hostess, and it is
usual to specify upon the card any particular
entertainment to be provided (see Invitations,
p. 332). The success of the function of course
will materially depend upon the weather ; but
guests are expected to turn up if it is fine or
wet, unless there is a regular and persistent down-
pour of rain. Every hostess, however, should
be prepared for eventualities, and the wise
hostess takes care to have one or two rooms in
readiness in which she can receive her guests,
and in which tea and other refreshments can
be served and entertainment provided. She wiU
be able to regulate matters to such an extent
that she can with no trouble transpose her
garden party into a regular afternoon At Home,
and send her guests away wholly satisfied with
their entertainment however unpropitious the
weather iray have been.
Garden parties may be given upon a large or
a small scale. For the simple httle family affair
where the guests number from twenty to thirty
young people who have been invited to play a
friendly game of tennis, the arrangements can
be of the simplest. In this case tennis wiU be
the raiaon cfUre of the entertainment. The
young people should arrive in suitable tennis
attire, and simple refreshments in the way of
lemonade and other cooling drinks, and ices
where possible, might be handed round at
intervals to the guests. Tea could be served
either in the garden or indoors. One point to
be remembered is that in the strawberry season
there should always be an ample supply of
strawberries and cream - there is nothing in the
way of light refreshments which will be more
appreciated by the young people. It adds
materially to the enjoyment of the party to have
a director of games who will arrange the different
sets with due regard to the capabihties of the
players.
Large Garden Parties. - At large garden parties
the arrangements are upon a much more elabo-
rate scale. A marquee is usually erected upon
the lawn, and there tea, ices, and all kinds of
light refreshments, including champagne cup,
claret cup and strawberries and cream, grapes,
peaches and melons are served. More often
than not a band is engaged to play, and in this
case a bandstand must be erected for the
occasion. Smaller tents are often found here
and there in the garden for fortune-tellers,
palmistry, &c. The entertainments provided
for the guests axe many and various, and the
number of people invited very large. The
ladies should wear the lightest and daintiest of
summer dresses. Laces and flimsy muslins are
the most suitable materials for young people.
Serges and stuff dresses would be out of place.
The hostess receives her guests upon the lawn.
They should all go up and shake hands with her
upon arrival, and introduce the friends they
have brought as " party " before they mingle
with the crowd and seek out their acquaintances.
The hostess does not at a garden paxty intro-
duce people, but leaves them to find their own
friends.
Plefreshments may be served in the house, if
preferred. In any case, it is always as well to
serve a great part of the refreshments indoors
in case of weather eventualities in the shape
of unexpected thunder-storms, showers, &c., it
being wiser not to place too much reliance upon
the clerk of the weather even under the most
favourable auspices. At very large garden
parties given in the country during the season
it is usual to provide special trains for the con-
veyance of the guests from toTSTi. In these
cases the times of the different trains are speci-
fied on the back of the invitation cards. It is
always courteous for the guests to take leave
of the hostess before going, whenever possible.
Garden parties as a rule last from 3.30 till about
7. The hours are generally specified upon the
cards of invitation.
Picnics. - Of the many entertainments peculiar
to the summer season, a well-organised picnic
is perhaps the most enjoyable. Picnics should
only be arranged when the fine weather seems
to have well settled in, and in this respect one
important thing the women of the peirty should
keep in mind is to dress in accordance with the
weather, if they do not wish their enjoyment
to be altogether marred. This ad\ace is some-
times a little hard to follow. In many instances
a picnic is by way of being a notable event to
one or two of the young girls amongst the guests.
They will have pro^^ded themselves with dainty
toilettes for the occasion. Judge of their chagrin
therefore if the day dawns threatening and
cloudy, if not actually wet. But if they are to
have their full sum of enjoj'ment they must
resist all temptation to wear their cherished
finery and don some dress more smtable to the
weather - otherwise throughout the day they
will be worried about the chances of spoiling
their fine clothes, and even if they do not actually
do that, they run the risk of catcliing a heavy
cold which will probably have the effect of
preventing them from joining any other picnic
parties of the season. It will be well, therefore,
to be wise in time, and let no other consideration
but common -sense prevail in the choice of their
attire.
Good Organisation Necessary. - For a picnic
to be a complete success, it is necessary that it
should be well organised at the outset, and that
no detail should be overlooked. A great deal in
the first instance depends upon the selection of
a suitable spot. England is replete with beauti-
ful little country places abounding in romantic
scenery. Very often some historical ruin is the
centre of these rural spots ; in the case of an
exciu'sion to one of these the picnic would
therefore be instructive as well as amusing.
344
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Then the riverside places abound in beautiful
scenery, and present the addition£il attractive
prospect of a pleasant row to vary the programme
of the day. When one hves in the country, the
opportunities for picnics are of course unUmited,
but near every town there are rural spots easily
reached by train or tram at small expense, and
the prospect of a picnic may be said to be even
more attractive to the dwellers in the town
than it is to the dwellers in the country.
Small Picnics. - For a small party a picnic is
a comparatively simple matter, one or two tea-
baskets equipped with the necessary table
requisites, such as cups and saucers, spoons,
forks, knives, plates, methylated spirits lamp
upon which to boil the water, a kettle which
usually consists of a teapot and kettle com-
bined, tins for the biscuits, cakes and bread and
butter, salt, &c., will hold these and all the other
necessary provisions. Nothing as a rule is for-
gotten in a properly equipped tea-basket, and
the tins are usually labelled in accordance with
the goods they are to contain, so there is no
chance of anything being overlooked. Special
sets of grease-proof paper plates and dishes are
sold for picnics. They may be had in all sizes
and include meat plates, dishes, pudding plates,
tea plates, &c. A picnic -box containing a com-
plete set of cardboard dishes and plates sufficient
for a small picnic may be purchased for 9M.
Small baskets containing ample provisions for a
picnic may also be had at very moderate prices
from most caterers.
Large Picnics. - For large parties, however, tea
or luncheon baskets will not hold sufficient. It
is always as well to take one tea-basket on
account of its handy equipment in the way of
methylated spirits lamps, tins for condiments,
&c., but a large hamper should be requisitioned
for the packing of the provisions.
If the picnic is to be for luncheon, a properly
equipped luncheon basket with glasses, knives,
forks, &c., should be taken together with two
other hampers, one to contain the wine, lemonade,
&c., the other the table-cloth and various
articles of food. In packing these bsiskets care
should be taken to put the heaviest articles at
the bottom of the basket and to place the tilings
in the basket as nearly as possible in the order
in which they will be required, leaving the table-
cloth uppermost. It is as well also beforehand
to make a list of everything that is to be packed,
and to check this hst before the provisions are
placed in their respective baskets.
Packing the Provisions. - An important thing
to remember in regard to a picnic is the fact that
" loo many cooks spoil the broth." One or two
persons at most should be held responsible for
seeing that the proper things are placed in their
respective baskets. If too many interfere, the
chances are that each one will show a tendency
to leave the details to the others, with the result
that many things will be overlooked. Very
often a picnic is for tea alone ; but if it is pro-
posed to make a day of it, the host will often
arrange for luncheon to be supplied at some
rural inn first, and for the tea picnic to take
place afterwards ; or else the luncheon may be
taken in the open air and tea subsequently
provided at the inn. It is always as well for
the host to have some knowledge of the locality
of the place in which the picnic is given. He
should always know the nearest country inn in
the neighbourhood in the case of the provisions
falling short, or some important table necessity
having been overlooked, in which case the
deficiency could be easily supplied.
The informal picnics where people wait upon
each other are by far the most enjoyable.
Wealthy people as a rule motor down to the spot
selected, sending their servants beforehand to
make all arrangements. The latter remain to
wait upon the party, and are responsible for
things going right in the way of food supplies.
It cannot be denied that picnics are enjoyable
under these circumstances, more especially to
those who Uke to take things easily, but after all
a picnic is an informal gathering at best, and to
rob it of its informality is to rob it of half of its
charm. At large parties it is of course necessary
to have one or two servants to take charge of
the provisions in transit, to unpack them, to
open the wine, and to repack the things when
finished with ; but during the meal let them be
as little in evidence as possible. The guests will
far prefer to help each other and to help them-
selves.
Contribution Picnics. - Sometimes a picnic is
organised by three or four people. In this way
the individual expenses are very materially
lessened. For a picnic of this kind, however,
good organisation is more than ever essential if
things are not to go wrong. The ladies should
agree between themselves as to what part of the
entertainment each is to be responsible for, and
what provisions each is to supply. Only in this
way can the dangers of both omission and over-
lapping be averted.
Boating Parties. - Very often a boating party
is made the raieon d'Hre of a picnic. The boats
must be hired in suitable time, and care must
be taken to include good oarsmen in the party.
Either provisions are taken in tea-baskets or else
one of the many riverside hotels is fixed upon
beforehand for tea, and the rowing party makes
this spot its destination. The party very often
returns home by train on these occasions.
Steam Launch Parties. - Steam launches can
also bo hired by the day for picnics. Many
people club together to share in the expense, and
the company is as a rule a very large one. Gener-
ally a riverside place where tea may be had is
fixed upon as the destination of the party, and
they return home by launch also. On the
whole, it may be said that outdoor parties of
any kind given during the summer are of all
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
345
forms of entertainment the most enjoyable,
providing that the fickle clerk of the weather is
in a sunny mood and that the company gives
itself up whole-heartedly to the enjoyment of
the hour, leaving the worries of the moment to
take C6ire of themselves.
WEDDING ETIQUETTE
The Engaged Girl. - When one of the daughters
of a household becomes engaged to be married,
there are many points of etiquette to be kept
in mind, both by herself and her parents and
the parents of her fiance.
In the first place, after the announcement of
an engagement, the father, mother and relatives
of the bridegroom to be must at once make
the acquaintance of the bride and her relations
if they have not been previously acquainted.
They should call upon the father and mother of
the intended bride as soon as possible, and their
calls must be returned with the utmost promp-
titude. It must be borne in mind by both
famiUes, that if they are to avoid that unpleasing
state of friction which is often manifested be-
tween the relations-in-law of a young couple,
they must begin by avoiding any little breach
of etiquette which is likely to cause offence on
either side, and which often is the beginning of
actual lack of harmony between relations by
marriage.
The bridegroom's relations will of course wish
to make the acquaintance of their son's future
bride. For this purpose it is usual for them
to ask the latter upon a short visit, as soon as
the engagement is announced.
The visit to her future relations is one of the
most trying ordeals a young engaged girl has
to undergo. She knows that at the best, the
attitude of her fiance's parents towards her
■Rail be one of criticism, and that they are in-
wardly debating within themselves whether she
is really good enough for their son.
A tactful girl, however, will come triumphantly
through this ordeal. She will always bear in mind
that she is taking the son away from his people,
as it were, and this will make her all the more
considerate towards the family in which she is
about to enter. She will refrain from mono-
polising all his time, for instance, and from
flaunting that air of proprietorship wMch in
some girls is particularly aggressive. She will
encourage him to continue in all the little
attentions he was wont to bestow upon his
father imd mother, and not exact the whale of
liis attention to herself. She will, in fact, so
ingratiate herself with every one by her un-
selfishness and consideration that by the time
her visit is over, she will be looked upon by all
as a decided acquisition to the family, and her
fiance will have the satisfaction of knowing
his choice is unanimously approved.
Conduct of tne Engaj,ed Couple. - An engaged
couple should be careful not to advertise the
fact too freely to the world at large. Any
effusive demonstration in public is the height of
bad form. A girl who insists, for instance, at a
dance on dancing all the evening with her fiance
is guilty of a grave transgression against the
laws of etiquette.
Engaged couples are nowadays allowed much
more of each other's society than in olden times.
Independence is th: motto of the age, and the
young girl acts up to it by going about with
her fiance to places of public amusement un-
chaperoned. To act strictly in accordance with
etiquette, however, a young girl should always
be chaperoned by one of her relatives on these
occasions. It is a rule which is as often as not
honoured in the breach as in the observance,
but it is a rule which prevails all the same.
Where the engagement is to be a short one, it
is better for the engaged couple not to go out
much into society except amongst their relatives
and friends. If the engagement is destined to
be a long one, however, this rule cannot be
observed.
Breaking off an Engagement. - In the case of
an engagement being broken off, all letters and
presents on both sides should be returned with
the least possible delay.
Fixing the Wedding Day. - The choice of the
wedding day remains with the future bride, as
tliis has been her time-honoured pri\alege. There
are certain superstitions in regard to weddings
which she should do well to bear in mind if she
does not wish to go against the prejudices of
elderly and superstitious relatives, ilay, for
instance, for some reason or other is considered
an unlucky month for a wedding, and the
Lenten season is as a rule avoided in regard to
the celebration of marriage. In older times
the solemnisation of marriage in tliis season was
forbidden, so it may be said that the reluctance
of the average bride to have her wedding in Lent
has its rise in a tradition handed down from the
past.
Forms of Marriage. - ^The wedding day fixed,
the next tiling to be thought of is in what form
the marriage is to take place. There are four
different modes of celebration of marriage in
England. They are-
Marriage by Banns.
Marriage by Ordinary Licence.
Marriage by Special Licence.
Marriage by Registrar.
Marriage by Banns. - This is the form of
marriage most usually adopted. Banns must
be published on tliree consecutive Sundays in
the parish in which the prosisective bridegroom
resides, and also in the parish in wliich the
prospective bride resides, and both must have
resided in their respective parishes fifteen days
previously to the first publication of the banns.
The marriage must take place within three
months of the banns being published, or re-
346
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
publication will be rendered necessary. The
marriage must be solemnised in one of tlie
churches where the banns were pubhshed, and
the clergyman of the other church must give a
certi6cate of such publication to the clergyman
about to perforin the ceremony.
By Ordinary Licence. - Marriage by hcence is
a convenient alternative to the pubUcation of
banns. In London application should bo made
by one of the parties to be married at the Vicar
General's office at the Court of Faculties, or
at the Bishop of London's Registry. In the
countrj' it is usual to apply to a clergyman who
is also a surrogate, and he will obtain the
licence by return of post from the Bishop's
Registrar.
Fees. - The fee in London is £2, 12s. 6d. in-
clusive of stamp duty, and varies in the country
from £1, 15s. to £2, I2s. 6d., according to the
diocese. The licence is granted without previous
notice, and is available as soon as issued, but one
of the parties must declare on oath that there is
no legal impediment to the marriage, and also
that one of the parties has resided at least fifteen
days in the parish in which the wedding is to
take place.
Marriage by Special Licence. - A special licence
can be obtained at an average cost of £29, 8s. by
approval of the Archbishop of Canterbury after
application at the Faculty Office. It enables a
marriage to be celebrated at any time or place,
and does away with the necessity of the residen-
tial quaUfications.
Marriage by Registrar.- (1) By Certificate.- A
marriage can now be celebrated in a Registrar's
Office without any religious ceremony. Notice
must first be given in the prescribed form by
one of the parties to the intended marriage, if
both have continuously resided in the registrar's
district during the seven days immediately
preceding the notice. If each has resided for so
long in different districts, a notice must be given
to each registrar. Twenty-one days after this
notice the marriage can take place, and during
this period the notice is pubhcly exhibited in the
registrar's office. The fee for entry of notice
is Is., for issue of the certificate Is., and for per-
forming the marriage ceremony 5s.
(2) By Licence. - The Registrar, howevei, can
grant a licence by which the ceremony can take
place one whole day next after the notice. For
instance, if notice were given on a Monday,
the marriage could take place on a Wednesday.
Fifteen days previous residence in the district is
necessary on the part of either the prospective
br'do or the prospective bridegroom, and the
notice need not bo suspended in the office of the
registrar as is the case when a certificate is
applied for.
The cost of a licence is £1, 10s., and besides
small fees for entries and certificate of notice,
lOs. stamp duty. The fee for performing the
marriage ceremony is 10s.
The arrangement of all these matters in regard
to the ecclesiastical and legal part of the cere-
mony devolve on the bridegroom, and ail fees are
paid by him.
Marriages in Scotland. - In Scotland there are
two forms of marriage, regular and iiregular.
The ceremony of what is known as a " regular
marriage " is performed by a minister after the
banns have been published on three consecutive
Sundays in the parish in which the prospective
bridegroom resides, and also in the parish in
which the prospective bride resides. Custom,
however, has made deviation from this law
permissible, and in practice proclamation on
one or two Sundays is deemed sufficient. Most
frequently the Scottish wedding takes place in the
house of the bride's parents, although a large
number of weddings are now celebrated in cliurch.
As an alternative to having the banns proclaimed
the bride and bridegroom elect may give notice
to the registrar of the district in which they h.ave
resided for fifteen days immediately preceding
the notice. The fee for entry of notice is 7s. 6d.
The notice is publicly exhibited for seven days,
after which period a certificate of publication
of notice of marriage is granted (fee Is.). This
certificate must be given to the minister per-
forming the ceremony. Where banns have been
proclaimed the certificate of proclamation of
banns must be given to him in like manner.
In " Irregular Marriages " no official celebra-
tion is necessary, the declaration of the consent
of the parties to take each other for husband
and wife being deemed sufficient. It is neces-
sary, however, that either the husband or the
wife should have resided in Scotland for at least
twenty-one days before the mutual consent to
marriage is made. The declaration should be
made before witnesses, who will be able to testify
to the fact that it was made when the parties
apply for registration of the marriage. All
irregular marriages should be registered within
throe months after the marriage, application for
the purpose being made to the sheriff. Regular
marriages require to be registered within three
days. A registration scliedule for the purpose
must be obtained from the registrar of the parish
in which the ceremony is celebrated.
Fees at a Wedding. - There is no set figure for
the amount of the fee to be given to the officiating
clergyman ; these must be regulated by the
position and means of the bridegroom. It
should never, however, be under £1, Is. This
fee should be placed in an envelope and laid on
the vestry table after the ceremony, with the in-
scription, " For the Rev. , with compliments
and thanks." ^ The fee to the clerk should not
be less than lOs. Then there are many and sun-
dry fees to be given to vergers, and pew attend-
1 If the clerpryman is a relative, or a very (?reat friend of
the family, no fee is given, but it is usual to make him some
present, generally a piece of Bilver, as a souvenir of the
occasion.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
347
ants, all of whom expect to be remembered on
the auspicious occasion.
The Bridegroom Pays all Fees. - All fees in
connection with the actual celebration of a
wedding ceremony are defrayed by the bride-
groom, and are paid previous to the ceremony or
immediately after it. It is usiial for the best
man on these occasions to see to the paying of
fees for the bridegroom. The latter either gives
him the requisite amount beforehand, or else
the best man lays out the money required,
which is refunded to him afterwards.
Other Expenses of the Bridegroom. - In addition
to the paying of all the necessary fees, there are
several other expenses entailed upon a bride-
groom. At the commencement of his engage-
ment he has to present his future bride with a
handsome engagement ring, in accordance with
the never -varying custom. Then various gifts
on the part of an engaged man to his fiancee
during their engagement are always a foregone
conclusion. He is also expected to give his
bride a handsome present upon her wedding
day, in addition to the all-important wedding
ring. He has also to provide his bride and
her bridesmaids with their bouquets, and he
must give each of the bridesmaids a present,
which usually takes the form of some piece of
jewellery, such as a bangle, a brooch, or a
pendant. In addition, the bridegroom has to
provide the carriage to convey the bride and
himself from church and afterwards from her
parents' house to the station, although in the
country as a rule the carriage is provided by
the father of the brio i.
In regard to their future home the bridegroom
has to supply all the furniture, plate and linen.
Large contributions towards the plate, however,
are usually given in the form of wedding pre-
sents, so his expenses in this direction are often
materially lessened.
Expenses of the Bride's Parents. - First and
foremost amongst the expenses of the bride's
parents comes the trousseau, which should be
prepared with due regard to the position in ilfe
which their daughter will occupy. AH the
Unen should be marked with her married name.
Then there are various At Homes and parties
given before the marriage in celebration of the
engagement. On the wedding day the bride's
parents give the wedding reception and pay for
all floral decorations in the church. If the
service is a choral one, they must bear all the
expenses of the choir. The bride's parents
also pay for the carriages used by themselves
and their household. They do not pay for the
carriages of the guests invited to the wedding.
Tips are £is a rule expected by all the coachmen
and footmen on the wedding day, and these
usually amount to about 5s. in each case. In
accordance with time-honoured custom they are
all given champagne or other wine in which
to drink the bride's health. Where wedding
favours are given these are also supplied by the
parents of the bride. The bride usually gives a
handsome wedding present to the bridegroom
on the wedding day.
The Eve of the Wedding. - The evening before
the wedding it is customary for the bride's
parents to invite one or two of the near rela-
tives of both bride and bridegroom to dinner.
The bridegroom and his best man are also
present.
Bridesmaids. - The number of bridesmaids will
depend upon the scale upon which the wedding
is to be. Six bridesmaids make a favourite
number for ceremonious weddings, with occasion-
ally two httle boys, or a httle boy and a Httle
girl, to act as train-bearers. At very quiet
weddings one or two bridesmaids will be suffi-
cient. The bridesmaids should be chosen from
the relatives of both famihes, the sisters of the
bride and bridegroom (where there are sisters)
being usually asked to perform the office. The
bridesmaids provide their own dresses, and in
making the selection of the colour and style of
dress to be worn by her bridesmaids, the bride
should always be careful to select something that
will be equally becoming to all. She should
also bear in mind that the style of the dresses
should be such as will enable them to be worn
on future occasions.
The Bride's Dress. - The bride is as a rule
dressed eitirely in white, unless the wedding is
a quiet one and she is meirried in her travelling
dress, or else that it is her second marriage.
Silk, satin, cripe de chine, or ninon, chiffon or
lace over silk or satin are the favourite materials
for bride's wear. The dress is trimmed with
orange blossom - and a long white veil is worn
over a wreath of orange blossom. White gloves,
shoes, and stockings are also worn ; everj'thing
must be en suite^ the bouquet she carries being
also of white blossoms.
When the Bride is a Widow. - A bride who is a
widow should not wear a bridal veil or orange
blossoms. Brides who have been married be-
fore often wear their travelling toilettes for the
ceremonj'. Delicate greys of aU shades, fawns,
and other light colours are usually selected. For
a ceremonious wedding, however, a widow may
wear white, but it should be relieved by some
touch of colour. A widow is not attended by
bridesmaids at her wedding. There is no
obhgation for her to be given away by
her father or other male relations at the cere-
mony, although it is usxial for either her father
or one of her male relatives to perform this
office on her behalf.
The Best Man. - The responsibihties of the
best man, who should always be a bachelor, are
many and varied. He is the right-hand man of
the bridegroom, as it were. He should accom-
pany the bridegroom to the church, and see
that he does not leave the wedding ring behind
him. He must see that all the arrangements
348
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
in reg€ird to the bridegroom's carriage, both for
conveying him and his bride from the church,
and from the bride's house to the station, are
in order. He must be ready to reheve the
bridegroom of all the Uttle incidental worries in
his power. For instance, the best man often
actually sees to the taking of the railway tickets,
and the safe conveyance of luggage for the honey-
moon trip. The best man has also, as a rule, to
attend to the payment of all fees incidental to
the wedding, either before or after the ceremony
on the bridegroom's behalf. He must also sign
the register in the vestry afterwards.
Going to the Church. - The bridesmaids should
arrive at the church a short time before the
bride. If the bride's sisters are acting as
bridesmaids they should drive to the church in
the carriage with their mother, the carriage
afterwards returning for the bride and her
father ; but when she has no sisters she generally
drives to the church \vith her mother, her father,
having preceded her, meeting her at the church
door.
The bridegroom and the best man should
arrive at the church before the bride, and stand
together below the chancel steps, or kneel at
a prie-Di''u until shortly before the bride's
arrival. The best man should make it his care
to see that the bridegroom is in good time at the
church.
In the Church. - The bridesmaids assemble in
the church, or inside the church near the west
door, in two rows facing each other, waiting for
the bride's arrival, and ready to fall in behind her.
The General Company. - The bridegroom's re-
latives should seat themselves at the right of
the nave of the church, the bride's relatives
seating themselves upon the left.
The Bridal Procession. - If the wedding is a
choral one the choir and clergy march in silence
to the west end, and are ready at a signal agreed
upon with the organist to strike up the pro-
cessional hymn. The bride enters the church
leaning on the right arm of her father or guardian,
and follows the choir to the chancel step, the
bridesmaids, two and two, following her. The
bridegroom takes his place at her right side
with the " best man " standing behind liim. He
neither embraces nor shakes hands with the
bride, but simply bows to her. The father
stands at the bride's left hand. Her mother
sits in the front seat with the nearest relatives.
And now the service begins. At the question
" Who giveth this woman, &c.," the father bows
to the clergyman, and stepping in front of the
couple, joins their right hands together, and
then goes back to his place. Now is the time
for the gloves of the bride to be handed with
her bouquet to the care of the chief bridesmaid,
who holds them to the end of the service.
The bridegroom should unglove as soon as the
service begins. It always creates an awkward
pause if the bridegroom has to hunt in his
pockets for the ring. He should have it ready
when required by the priest to place it upon
the book. After the first blessing, the bride
and bridegroom alone follow the priest to the
altar, the others remaining at their stations,
not chatting together, but reverently joining in
the service.
When all is finished, the bride, leaning on her
husband's left arm, and followed by her brides-
maids, father and mother, and the principal
relations and friends, go to the vestry to sign
the book and give congratulations. On going
slowly down the cliurch, the bride takes her
husband's left arm, both recognising their friends
with smiles or bows, the bridesmaids follow two
and two, and then the bride's mother. The
" best man " waits until the last to see everybody
into their carriages. The Bishop of London has
lately condemned the custom of throwing rice
or confetti in the church porch or within the
raiUngs at the west end. Sensible people will
approve the bishop's action and govern them-
selves accordingly.
The ceremonial described is that of the Church
of England. The actual form of the wedding
ceremony will, of course, differ in regard to
different creeds, but in every case the social
etiquette remains the same, whatever the re-
ligion of the bride and bridegroom may be.
Where wedding favours or button-holes are
given to the guests, they should be distributed
by the bridesmaids in the vestry and in the
church. Wedding favours should be worn on
the left side.
The Wedding Reception. - Formerly it was
compulsory for a marriage ceremony to take
place before noon, hence the origin of the
" wedding breakfast " as the most suitable form
of hospitahty to show to the guests. But since
the time in which the ceremony can be per-
formed has been extended, fashionable marriages
now as a rule take place about from 2 to 2.30,
hence the old-fashioned wedding breakfast has
been superseded by the afternoon reception or
At Home. The invitations should be issued
tliree weeks before the wedding day (for
Wedding Invitations, see p. 332), and it is usual
for the guests invited to give a wedding present
to the bride or bridegroom. The presents have,
as a nile, all arrived before the day, and a room
is usually set apart in which they can he displayed
for the benefit of the guests.
The arrangements for the wedding reception
are of a similar nature to those for an afternoon
At Home (see p. 339). The guests are received in
the drawing-room, and they should at first shake
hands with the host and hostess, and afterwards
with the bride and bridegroom. The hostess
should stand at the drawing-room door, and
the bride and bridegroom should stand together
in some prominent position in the room.
After the presents have been inspected the
company adjourn to the luncheon or tea room
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
349
in the following order : The bride and bride-
groom lead the way, followed by the bride's
father with the bridegroom's mother. Next
come the bridegroom's father and the bride's
mother. After them the best man with the
chief bridesmaid, and the remainder of the
bridal party. Then follow the general company
without any prescribed order of precedency.
The Refreshments. - The refreshments pro-
vided at a wedding tea are similar to those for
an afternoon At Home, but champagne is of
course de rigueur at a wedding, and in the centre
of the buffet stands the bride's cake. The room
is cleared of furniture, and the buffet extends
along the length of it, servants being stationed
behind it to pour out tea, coffee, &c. The
number of toasts which were formerly proposed
at the old-time wedding breakfasts are now as
a rule dispensed with, but the officiating clergy-
man or some old friend of the family briefly
proposes the health of the happy couple ; the
bridegroom repUea and the bride cuts the cake,
a small portion of which is handed to each guest.
Wedding Limcheons. - The wedding hospitaUty
sometimes is extended in the form of a luncheon,
which is taken either sitting down or standing
up. The latter is the more usual form, especially
when the company is a very large one, the sitting-
down luncheon being adopted when those in-
vited consist mainly of the near relatives and
most intimate friends of the bride and bride-
groom. In the case of a luncheon the menu is
naturally more extended and varied than that
of a wedding tea. At a standing-up luncheon
the gentlemen help the ladies and themselves
to the various dishes, whilst at a sitting-down
luncheon the servants wait as usual. At a
sitting-down luncheon the bride cuts the cake
after the sweets have been served.
Departure of the Newly-Married Couple. - As
soon as the bride has cut the cake and the healths
have been drunk, she retires to change her dress
for the wedding journey, accompanied by the
head bridesmaid, if the latter is a near relative,
and the company adjourns to the drawing-room.
When the bride comes down again the farewells
are made, and the bridegroom leads her to the
carriage. The old-fashioned custom of throw-
ing a slipper after the bride " for luck " is still
adhered to - rice is also thrown, but confetti
should be avoided. It is most troublesome to
get rid of, and besides the colour sometimes
comes off, and if the bride's travelling dress is a
light one it is liable to get spoiled by a too
profuse confetti shower. If something must be
thrown diminutive horse shoes of silver paper
are now sold, and they are being largely used at
weddings for the purpose. They do not cling
to the clothing, and are much safer to use than
either rice or confetti.
After the Wedding. - The Wedding Trip. -
There is a tendency on the whole nowadays to
curtail the wedding trip. Sometimes it lasts
little more than a week, at other times it is
abandoned altogether, the honeymoon being
spent in the new home of the young couple.
Formerly a wedding trip of from three to four
weeks was considered de rigueur. At the present
time the length of the trip is purely a matter of
individual inclination and convenience.
Wedding Cards and Cake. - Formerly it was
the custom to send out to friends and relations
sUces of wedding cake packed in small white boxes
bordered in silver. Wedding cards printed in
silver were also sent out in the name of the
newly -married pair, and on these cards the
maiden name of the bride crossed through with
a silver arrow would also appear as a symbol
that she had given up her maiden name for
ever. Sometimes several hundred of these cards
and packets of cake would be sent out, and to
superintend their dispatch was quite a labour
of love on the part of the bride's family after
the wedding day. This custom, however, has
now largely fallen into disuse, and is only kept
up by old-fasliioned people. Neither cards nor
cake are now sent out by people who wish to
be considered up to date. (For etiquette in
regard to cards and calls for a bride, see
p. 330.)
Wedding Anniversaries. - It is a pleasing
custom among most married people to celebrate
each year the anniversary of their wedding as
it comes round by each giving the other some
httle gift. Tlie husband often takes his wife
out to dinner and to the theatre afterwards.
In these annual celebrations neither relations,
friends, nor acquaintances have any part -
though in the case of a very near relative a
congratulatory letter might sometimes be
sent.
Silver and Golden Weddings. - Silver Weddings
and Golden Weddings, however, are both ob-
served, and usually an At Home or dinner-
party is given in honour of the occasion. The
Silver Wedding is the twenty-fifth anniversary
of the marriage, and the Golden Wedding is
the fiftieth. In the first case the invitations
may be printed in silver, in the second case in
gold ; but they often take the form of an
ordinary At Home card with " Silver Wedding "
or " Golden Wedding," as the case may be, in the
right-hand corner. Presents are usually made
to the married couple by their friends and
relatives on the occasion of both Silver and
Golden Weddings.
CHRISTENINGS
A christening party is, as a rule, limited
to the near relatives of the peirents of the
infant, and therefore partakes of much of the
informality of a strictly family gathering. The
invitations to a cliristening take the form
of ordinary letters, and they should, if possible,
be sent out a full week before the event.
350
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The ceremony usually takes place in the
morning, and the relatives invited upon arrival
at the church seat themselves in the pews
neao-est the font. If the child is a boy it must
have two godfathers and one godmother, and
if a girl two godmothers and one godfather.
The godmother (the chief godmother if there
are two) holds the child during the first part of
the service, and places it on the left arm of the
oflBciating clergyman when he is ready to take
it. WTien the clergyman asks for the child's
name, the chief godfather should pronounce it,
taking care to do so clearly and distinctly. \Vhen
the child has been christened, the nurse, who is
standing at the right of the clergyman, takes it
from him. After the service the father accom-
panies the clergyman to the vestry to give the
necessary particulars for the registration.
Fees. - The verger, pew-opener, and other
church attendants will expect gratuities on the
occasion of a christening. It is usual to give
the officiating clergyman some souvenir of the
occasion, which generally takes the form of a
piece of silver, but money is not given as a
rule. However, in many instances the parents
present the clergyman with a cheque to be
devoted to the requirements of the parish or
to any good work he pleases.
Christening Presents. - The godfathers and
godmothers must make presents to their god-
child. Silver mugs, silver bowls, silver spoons
and forks are typical presents for both godfathers
and godmothers to make. In many instances
the godmothers' presents consist of some simple
yet good piece of jewellery when the infant is
a girl, such as a pearl necklax;e, a jewelled cross,
or pendant. Often also the godmother's present
takes the practical form of a handsome robe
and cloak. The presents are usually sent the
day T3efore the christening.
Tips to the Nurse. - Each of the sponsors
makes a present of money to the nurse varying
in amount from 53. to £1 according to their
individual means.
After the Ceremony. - The entertainment given
to the relatives and friends of the parents after
the ceremony may take the form of a lunch, a
tea, or a dinner-party in the evening.
Christening Lunch. - If a lunch is given, it
takes place as soon as the party have returned
from church. The christening cake should
occupy the central position on the luncheon
table, and the health of the infant should
always be drunk in champagne. The cake is
cut at dessert.
No precedence is observed upon going in to
luncheon, the hostess and other leuiies go first
and the gentlemen follow. The clergyman who
performed the ceremony, if present, should sit
at the hostess's left hand, and each lady should
be placed at the right hand of a gentleman if
there are an equal number of ladies and gentle-
men. If the party is a large one the places
should be indicated by little cards on which
the names of the guests are inscribed.
Christening Tea. - The entertainment very
often takes the form of a tea. This is served
in the dining-room, the hostess receiving her
guests in the drawing-room first. All go down
to the tea-room together, the host and hostess
included. The refreshments are the same as
at an At Home, with the addition of the
cliristening cake. Coffee and tea are poured
out and handed round by the servants, but the
host and hostess should attend to the needs of
their guests in the way of handing cakes, &c.
Christening Dinner-Party. - In some caaes the
friends and relations are in\ited to a dinner in
the evening. The precedence is the same as
for an ordinary dinner-party. The christening
cake is cut at dessert by the hostess, and the
infant's health drunk at the same time.
FUNERALS AND MOURNING
The gloom cast over a family by the death
of a dear one leaves the bereaved relatives with-
out much heart for forms and ceremonies. Yet
there are certain formahties which must be ob-
served even in these last acts to be performed
in tribute to the memory of the departed.
The arrangements for the funeral fall naturally
upon the head of the family. Women are
.''pared as much as possible any share in the
mournful details. Where it is the head of the
family who has died, either the eldest son or
the nearest male relation takes the matter in
hand. But in some instances a woman is so
alone in the world that she has to rely strictly
upon herself to see that the leist rites are
faithfully and fittingly performed.
The funeral is at once placed in the hands of
the undertaker, and is arranged on a scale
suited to the means of the family. Any wishes
expressed by the deceased as to his leist resting-
place are of course respected. A doctor's
certificate should be obtained as soon as possible
after the death (see p. 376). As soon as the
day for the funeral is settled upon, letters should
be written on black-edged notepaper to near
relatives and friends who would wish to attend,
apprising them of the date, hour and place.
An announcement of the death, together with
the date and time of the funeral, is also as a
rule inserted in one or two of the chief news-
papers. The undertaker will often see to this.
In fact many details can be left in his hands,
as he thoroughly understands the etiquette of
funeral procedure. Friends and relatives at
once begin to send wreaths and ether floral
offering unless the not very frequent request of
" No flowers " has been made. Formerly it
was not considered etiquette for the ladies of
a family to attend a funeral : now they can do
so if they wish. Needless to say black should be
worn by all attending the funeral.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
351
All the blinds of the house should be pulled
down after the death, and they should be kept
lowered until after the funeral has taken place.
If the funeral takes place in the morning it
is usual to invite the friends to some light
luncheon. If it occurs in the afternoon they
should be offered tea upon their return to the
house. Friends, as a rule, however, refrain from
availing themselves of invitations, unless they
have had to come from a very great distance.
Letters of Condolence. - Upon hearing of the
death, letters of condolence should be sent by
friends and relations. These should always be
written on black-edged notepaper.
To Inquire Cards. - After the funeral, cards
" With kind inquiries " should be left by friends.
When the family feel once more able to receive
calls they send out cards " With thanks for
kind inquiries." Friends may call after the
receipt of these cards of acknowledgment, but
not before.
Periods of Mourning. - The etiquette in regard
to mourning is not now so strict as of yore,
and the periods of mourning have in most cases
been materially shortened. More especially in
regard to the regulation mourning wear has the
change of fashion been most marked, for whereas
crape was formerly worn for almost any and
every kind of moiirning, it has now been almost
universally discarded excepting for widows'
wear, whilst even in the latter case it is worn
as a trimming only, and altogether put aside
at a comparatively early date in the mourning
period.
Mourning for Widows. - There are two ac-
cepted periods of mourning for a widow. In
the case of the longer period mourning should
be worn for two years, whilst eighteen months
represents the time mourning should be worn
during the shorter period.
Crape when worn is used as a trimming only,
and it is only worn for the first six or eight
months - sometimes it is not worn at aU by
widows, and in many cases chiffon or some other
dull material takes its place.
Thie Widow's Cap. - The widow's cap and
veil have been discarded in many cases. The
usual period for wearing the cap is a year and
a day. The veil may now be of cliiffon instead
of crape. Lawn cuffs and collars are worn
during the first year.
Jewellery. - Diamonds may be worn quite
early in the period of mourning, and gold
jewellery after a year. Diamonds and pearls
are often worn with very deep mourning.
Half Mourning. - In the longer period of
mourning, half mourning begins after one year
and nine months. In the shorter period half
mourning may be worn after fifteen months.
For Fatlier or Mother. - ^The regulation period
in which mourning is worn for a parent is twelve
months. During this time black with crape is
worn for six luonths, black without crape for
four, and half mourning for two months. The
wearing of crape is optional, but black must be
worn for the first ten months. After three
months the black may be reUeved by touches
of white.
For a Son or Daughter. - The regulation period
of mourning for a son or daughter is the same
as for a father or mother.
Young Children. - For young children mourning
is worn for six months, and for infants three
months' mourning is sufficient.
Brother or Sister. - The period of mourning
for a brother or sister is from four to six months.
During the longer period black is worn for five
months, and half mourning for one month.
During the shorter period black should be worn
for two months, and half mourning for the re-
maining two months. If in accordance with
older customs crape is worn, the crape should
be worn for the first three months, black without
crape for two months, and half mourning for
one month during the longer period. During
the shorter period crape should be worn for
two months, and black without crape for the
remaining two.
The prevaihng method, however, is to follow
the first rule and discard crape altogether.
Jewellery. - Diamonds and pearls can be worn
after one month - gold after two months.
For a Stepmother. - If the stepmother has
filled the place of their own mother for her
stepchildien from their childhood, they should
wear mourning for her for the same period as if
for their own mother. In other cases the period
of mourning would be for six months - black
for four months, and half mourning for two
months.
For an Uncle, Axint, Nephew, or Niece. -
Moviming should be worn for either three months
or six weeks. During the longer period black
should be worn for two months, half moiirning
for one month. Diu-ing the shorter period
black should be worn for three weeks, half
mourning for three weeks. Crape should not
be worn for these relations.
For a Grandparent. - Mom-ning shoiild be worn
for either six or four months. During the longer
period black should be worn for tliree months,
and half movu-ning for tlirce months - after six
weeks it may be relieved with white. During
the shorter period the time for the wearing of
mourning and half moiu'ning should also be
equally divided. Formerly crape was worn for
the first three months of the mourning period.
Jewellery. - Diamonds may be worn after one
month - gold after six weeks.
For a First Cousin. - For a first cousin, black
should be worn for one month, or black for
tliree weeks, and lialf moiu-ning for three weeics.
Relations by Marriage. - For relations by
marriage the shorter of the two periods wliich
prevail for blood relations is usually adopted.
Periods of Seclusion. - When persons in mourn-
352
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ing should begin once more to enter upon social
duties is a much debated question, and one
which must to a large extent be governed by
special circumstances. The general rules upon
the subject are as follows : -
A widow should not accept invitations for a
period of tliree montlis. During this time she
should only \'isit her relations and very intimate
friends. After tliis she may gradually resume
her social duties, but she should not be present
at balls or dances till a year has elapsed.
Parents, Sons, and Daughters. - A parent
mourning for a son or a daughter should remain
in seclusion for six weeks. Balls and dances
should be avoided for six months. The same
rules apply to a daughter who is mourning for
a parent.
Brother or Sister. - For a brother or sister the
period of seclusion is three weeks. Balls and
dances should be avoided during the whole
period of mourning if the latter is the shorter
four months period ; or during five months if
the mourning is of the longer period.
Grandparents, Uncles, and Aunts. - For grand-
parents, uncles, and aunts, the period of seclusion
is about a fortnight.
Notepaper and Cards. - During the period of
mourning all notepaper and visiting cards
should have black edges. The black edge is
decreased in thickness as the period of mourning
draws to a close.
THE ART OF CONVERSATION
The art of conversation is indispensable to
a woman's social equipment. There is nothing
more pleasing than the cultured conversation of
a well-bred woman ; nothing more wearisome
than to Uston to the trivial talk of a woman
as lacking in breeding as she is in brains. It
does not follow that the most learned people
are the best conversationalists, although the
exigencies of conversation require as a rule that
a woman should be well read. Any woman with
a fair education can cultivate the art of talking
well, provided she has tact, a good memory, and
a pleasant well-modulated voice. Harsh strident
tones detract very materially from the charm of
a conversationalist. Very often this defect is
noticeable in girls who have been educated at
large public schools, where the habit of shouting
at recreation time is insensibly contracted. Every
care should be taken to cure this habit of shout-
ing, for although the voice may lack that actual
sweetness of timbre which is such a potent
charm, yet well-modulated tones go far to make
up for this deficiency.
A good conversationalist is before everything
a good listener. She does not monopolise all the
talking, but will adroitly lead to a subject of
particular interest to her friend, and then listen
carefully to what he or she has to say, putting
in an appropriate remark hero and there aa
occasion warrants. The secret of conversation
hes as much in the art of making others talk
&s of talking oneself. For a hostess good con-
versational powers are imperative. She must
know the secret of drawing out her shyest guest
and making her talk at her ease. She must
also know how to make a conversation general,
and discreetly change the subject if the topics
touched upon seem hkely to load to discord.
Topics to bo Avoided. - ReUgion and politics
are topics of conversation which should always
be avoided. They are subjects upon wluch
difference of opinion is very rife, and may often
lead to heated arguments which are as tiresome
and unpleasant as they are ill-bred.
Slang and Word Clipping. - There is a growing
tendency towards the use of slang in almost
every class of society at the present day. Words
are also chpped and abbreviated in such a
manner as to almost render them unrecognisable.
The gentlewoman would do well to avoid this
tendency, as nothing jars upon the refined ear
more than the mutilation of a good language,
and no matter how inured we may become to
colloquial slang, it never sounds well from a
woman's Ups. In whatever society slang or
word clipping is used, the fact remains that it
is contrarj'^ to all the laws of refinement and
good breecUng.
Pronunciation. - Words should be pronounced
distinctly and never slurred. The omission to
sound the letter g in the suffix " ing," as in the
word " dancing," is almost as great a sign of
lack of education as the omission or addition
of the letter " h." Cookneyism should also
be avoided. There is no more marked vulgarity
than a Cockney accent. When engaging nurses
for their children, parents should pay particular
attention to their pronunciation. Children
always adopt the accent of those who are con-
stantly with them, and Cockneyism contracted
in this way is most difficult to cure. Any
defects in children's speech should bo carefully
observed and corrected by their parents if they
do not wish the defects to become permanent.
Whispering in company is considered the height
of ill-breeding. People who have private matters
to talk about should select a suitable occasion
upon which to discuss them, and not offend
others by excluding them from the conversation
in this very marked manner.
Current Topics. - A woman should keep herself
well informed upon current topics of interest.
She should read the criticisms of new plays and
the reviews of new books. She will do well to
keep herself au fait with current literature, as
this is to many an absorbing topic of conversa-
tion. She should in addition cultivate the faculty
of remembering whatever she sees, hears, or
reads.
Tact is the quintessence of good conversation.
The tactful woman will never be at a loss to
find a subject of interest to her listeners. She
will discountenance scandal and other ill-natured
small talk- and when in spite of all her efforts
a dispute of any kind should occur in conversa-
tion between her friends or guests, she will pour
oil upon the troubled waters of discord by
quietly leading the conversation into a calmer
and safer channel. (For how to address titled
persons m conversation, see p. 354.)
THE ART OF READING ALOUD
U a correct accent and a good pronunciation
are necessary in ordinary conversation, how much
more are they indispensable for the woman who
IS called upon to read aloud for the pleasure and
entertainment of others. Good reading is an
accompUshment quite as worthy of cultivation
and as capable of imparting pleasure to others
as vocal or instrumental music.
Tone.- The cultivation of a correct tone of
voice for reading is essential. There are some
people whose voices for conversation are aU that
can be desired, but who if asked to read before
a hall containing a large number of people fail
to make themselves heard except by those who
are sitting qmte near them. In these cases the
voice lacks what is called " carrying power "
or resonance. There is nothing better for the
cure of this defect in the voice than constant
practice of reading aloud in the open air
Practice of this kind will gain timbre for a voice
naturally dull or faint.
Delivery.- Articulation must of necessity be
cleaj and distinct -^ach word should be uttered
dehberately with due regard for its correct pro-
nunciation. The sing-song method of reading
should be altogether tabooed. This defect is
often incurred by the reader letting his (or her)
voice drop after every comma, semi-colon and '
colon, to the same extent as after a full stop
l-auses after stops must of course be carefullv
regarded, but care must be taken not to give
them more than their proportionate value -for
instance, the reader must pause longest after
the full stop, not so long after the colon, still
less after the semi -colon, whilst after the comma
the pause should be almost imperceptible. The
interrogation mark, indicating a question, and
the note of exclamation, expressing sudden feel-
ing, require almost the value of the full stops.
The reader should try to cultivate a natural
manner. Whilst proper emphasis must be given
to the passages which require it, any attempt
at declamation should be avoided. Reading
sliould ho fluent and not faltering or hurried
Ihere is nothing more annoying to the hearers
Chan a reading rendered in staccato or ierkv
tbnes. Last, but not least, feehng and ex-
pression are essential attributes to good reading.
The reader should be able to convey as much
as IS in her power to her listeners the intention
of the author. .Vuhout feeUng, reading is little
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
353
more than a mechanical exercise- without ex
pression it becomes both wearisome and mono
tonous often to such an extent as to have the
ettect of sending the unfortunate hearers to sleep
One final word of warning- a,re much more noticeable in reading aloud than
in conversation. A stutterer should never
attempt to read before company until he (or
she) is cured of this defect. Nothing can be
more trying to people than to listen to a person
whose dehvery is marred by such an infliction.
Keadmg aloud is excellent practice for the
stammerer, but let her read aloud to herself
until this defect is altogether cured.
THE ART OF LETTER- WRITING
The woman who can write exactly as she
speaks who can talk on paper to the recipient of
her letter just as easily as if she were actually
conversing with her, is mistress of the art of letter-
writing, for in being able to write as we speak
hes the secret of good composition, and therefore
ol good correspondence.
In writing letters a woman must of course-
be gmded by the degree of intimacy which
exists between herself and the person to whom"
her letter is addressed. In writing to her friends
her powers of composition may have full play
whilst communications to slight acquaintances'
must of necessity be brief.
> ^№^ *?. ^^^^ ^ Letter.-JIany women find
It difficult to begin their letters-others find
equal difficulty in concluding them. One
sensible rule to observe in beginning a letter is
to avoid starting off with the pronoun " I "
1 ^^l^\i>^^^ " I hope you are quite weu!"
with which a number of women still begin their
letters IS as old-fashioned as it is ungraceful.
It the letter must be commenced with a pronoun
coinmence it with the pronoun, " You," referring
to the person to whom you are siting before
reterrmg to yourself.
Business Letters.- Business letters should of
course bejvritten in a business-like manner ;
they should be as brief and succinct as possible.
Business letters when very short may be written
m the third person. In other cases the first
person should be employed, the beginning
Dear Sir, and the subscription, " Yours
truly, being usually adopted. The name and
address of the person to whom a business letter
IS sent should be placed cither at the beginning
of the letter on the left-hand side above the
Dear Sir, ' or at the end of the letter after
the signature on the left-hand side. For business
letters Yours truly," and " Yours faithfullv."
are the usual forms of subscripton. In ordinary
letters the subscription depends upon the degree
of intimacy between the correspondents. Yours
sincerely, and Yoiu^ very sincerely, are the forms
most generally used.
Necessity for Spelling Names Correctly.- Care
354
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
should always be taken that the name of the
person to whom the letter is addressed is spelt
correctly. Some people are very sonsiti%'e as
to the proper spelling of their names. A Mrs.
Smyth, for instance, nught resent it very much
if a correspondent were to address her as " Mrs.
Smith." It is always as well to ascertain the
correct orthography of tlie names of acquaint-
ances before writing to them.
Letters in the Third Person. - Letterato strangers
may be written in the tliird person ; but only
if the communication is very brief. In other
cases it is better to write in the first person as
usual, as the constant repetition of names in
a long letter written in the third person would
not read well. In this case the letter should
begin " Sir," or " Madam," and be subscribed
" Yours truly." Invitations are generally
written on cards, and in the third person (see
p. 332).
Notepaper. - A woman should be very parti-
cular in regard to her notepaper, as this is one
of the many Uttle details by which her claim
to refinement will be judged. The notepaper
should always be of the best in quality and of
medium thickness, and the envelopes should
match it in every way, being of a size to exactly
fit the sheet of notepaper when it is folded.
Crests and Armorial Bearings not used. -
Crests and armorial bearings should not be
blazoned upon notepaper. The address should
be stamped clearly in plain lettering at the
top of the first page. White, black, or violet
are the favourite colourings for the lettering.
Dies should always be used for stamping the
addresses on notepaper. These can be specially
made at moderate charges of from 4s. 6d.
upwards, and can be used time after time,
the stationer undertaking the stamping for a
small charge.
Lever Embossing Presses. - A very convenient
method, however, for stamping notepaper at
home is by means of a lever embossing press.
This is a small hand instrument into which a
lever Embossing Press.
die is fitted, and by placing the notepaper over
the die and depressing the lever, each shoot of
notepaper can be stamped aa required. This
instrument is all the more useful to have at
hand when it is remembered that in the best
regulated household the supply of stamped
paper is apt to run short, and ponding the stamp-
ing of a fresh supply by the stationer very
often plain paper has to be used. The possession
of a lover embossing press renders such a state
of affairs impossible - it is always at hand, and
for this reason many women find it an indis-
pensable adjunct to their writing-tables.
How to Address Persons of Rank. - It is essential
that every woman shoiild know how to address
persons of rank in writing, both as regards the
addressing of the envelope and the beginning
of a letter. There is, of course, a great differ-
ence between the methods of addressing titled
people employed by their friends and those
employed officially and by strangers. For
instance the friends of a duke would call him
" Duke " when in conversation with him, whilst
strangers would adopt the formal term " Your
Grace." In writing the formal term would be
" My Lord Duke," whilst a friend would write
at the beginning of his letter " Dear Duke."
MODE OF ADDRESSING PERSONS OF RANK
In conversing with persons of rank, avoid the
constant repetition of their title. The following
table refers to the forms to be observed in
formal communications :
(a) = How to address the envelope.
(b) = How to begin the letter.
(c) = How to refer to a person's rank when
conversing with him.
Royalty -
The King ; (o) To His Majesty the King ;
(b) Sir, under His JMajesty the King ;
(c) Your Majesty.
The Queen : (a) To Her Majesty the Queen ;
(b) JNIadam, under Her Majesty the Queen ;
(c) Your Majesty.
The Prince of Wales / (o) To His Royal High-
ness the Prince of Wales ; (b) Sir ; (c) Your
Royal Highness. Similarly in regard to
other members of the Royal Family.
Nobility and Gentry -
Duke and Duchess ; (a) To His (Her) Grace
the Duke (Duchess) of ; (6) My Lord
Duke (Madam) ; (c) Your Grace.
Duke's eldest son has a courtesy title, and is ad-
dressed aa if it were his by creation. Uuke's younger
gong : (a) To the Riglit Honl)le. Lord James ;
(b) and (c) Sir. Uulce's daughters: (a) To the
Right Honble. Lady Jane G. (6) Madam ; (c)
Your Ladyship.
Marquis and Marchioness : (a) To the Most
Honblc. the Marquis (Marchioness) of
; (6) My Lord Marquis (Madam) ;
(c) Your Lordship (Ladyship). Marquis's
children same as for those of a Duke.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
Earl and Countess i (a) To the Right Honblo.
the Earl (Countess) of ; {h) My
Lord (Lady) ; (c) Your Lordship (Ladyship).
Earl's eldest son takes courtesy title and is addressed
accordingly. Earl's younger sons: (a) To the
Honble. Charles R ; (b) and (c) Sir. Earl's
daughters same as for those of a Duke.
Viscount and Viscountess similar to Earl and
Countess. All their sons and daughters are
styled Honourable, (a) To the Honble. John
(Mary) S ; (6) and (c) Sir (Madam).
Baron and Baroness and their children similar
to Viscount and Viscountess and their
children.
Baronet ■ (a) To Sir Edward D B^ironet
or Bt. (not Bart.) ; (6) Sir; (c) Sir Edward.
His wife: (o) To Lady D ; (6) Madam;
(c) Your Ladyship,
Knight : (a) To Sir John F ; (6) Sir ; (c) Sir
Johp. His wife, same as Baronet's wife.
Omit Kt. after the name on the envelope, and
avoid in speaking the use of the surname.
The Clergy -
Archbishop : (a) To His Grace the Lord Arch-
bishop of ; (b) My Lord Archbishop,
or Your Grace ; (c) Your Grace.
Bishop : (o) To the Right Reverend ; (6) My
Lord Bishop ; (c) Your Lordship.
N.B.-Aa a matter of courtesy the same form is
usually adopted in addressing bishops, whether
they are English Suffragan, or Colonial or Scotch
or Irish bishops. '
Dean : (a) To the Very Reverend The Dean
of ; (6) Vt y Rev. Su- ; (c) Mr.
Dean.
Archdeacon : (a) To the Venerable the Arch-
deacon of ; (6) Venerable Sir ; (c) Mr.
Archdeacon.
Clergymen : {a) To the Rev. C. D
(6) Rev. Sir ; (c) Sir.
If the Christian name is not known, leave
blank : Rev D, not Rev, Mr. D.
• If a clergyman possesses the right to
be styled Honourable or Right Honourable, this
should precede his address as a cleric ; e.g. The
Right Honble. and Right Reverend
A Canon or Prebendary is addressed like ordinary
clergymen except that Canon or Prebendary takes
the place of the Christian name or initial
Ihe wives of bishops and other clergymen derive no
title from the official rank of their husbands.
The JuncEs, Mayors, &c. -
The Lord Oharicellor : {a) To the Right Honb?e.
the Lord High Chancellor ; or to the Right
Honble. Earl Russell, Lord High Chancellor ;
(6) My Lord ; (c) Your Lordship.
This style is also adopted in addressing the
Lord Chief Justice, the Master of the Rolls, and
the Lords of Appeal.
Vice-chancellor • (o) To the Honble.
Vice-chancellor ; (6) and (c) Sir.
Puisne Judges :
Justice
355
(o) To the Honble. 5Ir.
J (6) and (c) Sir, but " My
Lord " when on the Bench.
Judges are usually Knights ; but the
above mode of address is more comphmen-
tary than that used in the case of Knights.
Their wives are addressed as the wives of
Knights.
Judges of the County Court i (a) To His
Honour Judge ; (6) and (c) Sir, but
" Your Honour " when on the Bench.
Justices of the Peace i (a) W. Smith, Esq.,
J.P. ; (b) and (c) Sir, but " Your Worship "
when on the Bench.
Lord Mayor i (o) The Right Honble. the
Lord Mayor of ; (6) My Lord ; (c)
Your Lordship. His wife : (a) The Right
Honble. the Lady Mayoress of ; (6)
Madam ; (c) Your Ladyship.
In Scotland, Lord Provost takes the place
of Lord Mayor. His wife does not share
in his title.
[The chief magistrates of London, Dublin, York
Liverpool, iranchester,Birmingham, Bristol, Leeds,
Sheffield, Newcastle, Cardiff, Belfast, and Cork arc
Lord Mayors ; and those of Edinburgh, Glasgow-
Aberdeen, Perth, and Dundee are Lord Provosts.]
-, or in a
Mayors : (a) The ]\Iayor of
memorial or other formal address. To his
Worship the Mayor of ; (6) and (c)
Sir, but " Your Worship " when in Court.
Aldermen : (a) To Alderman Sir James ,
or To Mr. Alderman Jones ; (6) and (c) Sir.
Officers of the Army and Navy -
(o) The professional rank must always pre-
cede any other title ; e.g. Admiral Sir
WilHam Eyton ; Captain James Martin,
R.N, ; Lieut, Nairn, R.N. A Meutenant in
the army is addressed simply as Esquire,
but above that grade the rank is expressed ;
e.g. General Sir Edward Iving, Colonel The
Honble. Arthur Bayne ; Major Thompson ;
(6) If the officer is untitled begin the letter
by writing " Sir " under the name and office.
[Friends, of course, would write Dear
Admiral, Dear General, &c., as the case
may be.] The wives of officers, hke the
wives of clergymen, do not derive any title
from the official rank of their husbands.
Special Cases -
Ambassadors take the title, as do also their
wives, of " Excellency " ; (a) To His
Excellency the Earl of , Ambassador
to ; (6) according to rank ; (c) Yoiu-
Excellency.
Privy Councillors are addressed as " Right
Honourable," but their wives not so.
Governors of Colonics : (a) To His Excellency
, Governor of ; (6) Accord-
ing to rank ; (c) Your Excellency.
356
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Cardinals : (a) To Hia Eminence ;
(6) and (c) Your Eminence.
Dowagers. Care should bo taken to dis-
tinguish Dowagers by putting their Christian
name before the title, thus : The Right
Honble. Jane, Countess of Wigan.
Maid of Honour : (a) The Honble. Miss ;
(b) and (c) IMadam.
Obs. It is courteous to add to the ordinary
addivss : -
(1) The letters Indicating the order of knighthood
that the addi-essee possesses, Buch as K.G.,
K.C.B., &c.
(2) The letters il.P. in the case of a Member of
Parliament.
(3) The letters K.C. in the case of a King's Counsel.
(4) The letters indicating a Doctor's degree- D.D.,
D.C.L., LL.D., M.D., &c.
RULES OF PRECEDENCE
(1) The precedence of the members of the
Royal Family depends on their relationship to
the reigning sovereign, and not on their relation-
ship to any of his predecessors.
(2) Ambassadors take precedence immediately
after the Blood Royal ; envoys and ministers
accredited to the sovereign after dukes and
before marquises.
(3) The five degrees of honour among peers
correspond with tlie titles - duke, marquis, earl,
viscount, baron. Of those belonging to the same
rank, seniority of creation settles the place in
the scale of honour.
(4) Peers have precedence according as they
are of England, Scotland, Great Britain, Ireland,
or the United Kingdom.
(5) Precedence depends partly on rank and
partly on place or office ; thus, the Lord Steward
and the Lord Chamberlain of H.M. Household
are above all peers of their own degree.
(6) Younger sons of rank A precede even
the eldest son of rank B ; thus the younger sons
of a Duke precede the elder sons of a Marquis
or Earl, and so on.
(7) All sons of Viscounts and Barons precede
Baronets, but the eldest sons and daughters of
Baronets walk before the eldest sons and
daughters of Knights of any degree whatsoever,
Knighthood not being an hereditary honour.
On the other hand, the eldest sons of Knights
precede the younger sons of Baronets.
(8) The official precedence of a husband or
father confers no personal precedence on his
wife or children ; e.fj. the Lord Chancellor or
the Speaker of the House of Commons does not
transmit any rank or place to his wife or children
from his official position but only from his
personal rank.
(9) Any one who is entitled to both personal
and official precedence is to be placed ticcording
to that which implies the higher rank.
(10) Unmarried women take precedency from
their father, " share and share alike," which is
not the case with sons.
(11) Married women share their husbands'
dignities, but can confer none of thou' own
upon their husbands. Nor can the daughter
of a peer, unless a peeress in her own right,
transmit any rank or place to her cliildren.
(12) Distinctions of bu-th, creation, or descent
are a woman's own, and remain if she marry a
commoner ; but if she marry a nobleman she
must take her husband's place in the order of
precedency.
(13) The wife of the eldest son of any degree
precedes the daughters of the same degree, and
both of them precede the younger sons of the
next higher degree. Thus the wife of the eldest
son of an Earl walks before an Earl's daughter,
and both of them before the wife of the younger
son of a Marquis ; and the wife of a Marquis
precedes the wife of the eldest son of a Duke.
TABLE OF PRECEDENCE AMONG MEN
The King.
The Prince of Wales.
King's other Sons.
King's Uncles.
King's Nephews.
(Ambassadors. See rule (2).)
Archbishop of Canterbury.
[In Scotland, Moderator of the General Assembly
if in attendance at a royal function.]
Lord High Chancellor, or Lord Keeper
if a Peer.
Archbishop of York.
The Prime Minister.
Lord Chancellor of Ireland.
Lord President of the Privy Council.
Lord Privy Seal.
Lord Great Chamberlain.
Lord High Constable.
Earl Marshal.
Lord Steward of H.M. Household.
Lord Chamberlain of H.M. Household.
The last five rank above all Peers
of their own degree.
Dukes.
Eldest Sons of Dukes of the Blood Royal.
Marquises.
Eldest Sons of Dukes.
Eabxs.
Younger Sons of Dukes of the Blood RoyaL
Eldest Sons of Marquises.
Younger Sons of Dukes.
Viscounts.
Eldest Sons of Earls.
Younger Sons of Marquises.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
357
Bishops.
(1) London, (2) Dvirham, (3) Winchester.
English Bishops, according to Seniority
of Consecration.
[In Scotland, the Primus of the Episcopal Chivrch
immediately follows the Moderator of the
Greneral Assembly.]
[In Ireland the Bishops of the Disestablished
Church are now placed on equality with those
of the Roman Communion, all alike taking
rank according to seniority of
Consecration.]
Secretary of State and Chief Secretary to the
Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, if at least a
Baron.
Barons.
Speaker of the House of Commons.
Commissioners of the Great Seal.
Treasurer of the Household.
Comptroller of the Household.
Master of the Horse.
Vice-Chamberlain of the Household.
Secretary of State and Chief Secretary to the
Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, if below
the rank of Baron.
Eldest Sons of Viscounts.
Younger Sons of Earls.
Eldest Sons of Barons.
Knights of the Garter.
Privy Councillors.
Chancellor of the Exchequer.
Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster.
Lord Cliiof Justice of the Iving's Bench.
Master of the Rolls.
Lords Justices of Appeal, and the President of
the Probate Divorce and Admiralty Division.
Judges of the High Court of Justice.
Knights Bannerets made by the Sovereign
in person.
Younger Sons of (1) Viscounts. (2) Barons.
Bakonets.
Knights Bannerets not made by the
Sovereign in person.
Knights Grand Cross of the Bath.
Knights Grand Commanders of the
Star of India.
Knights Grand Cross of SS. ]\Iichael
and George.
Knights Grand Commanders of the Order
of the Indian Empire.
Knights Grand Cross of the Royal
Victorian Order.
Knights Commanders of the Bath.
Knights Commanders of the Star of India.
Knights Commanders of SS. Michael and George.
Knights Commanders of the Order of the
Indian Empire.
Knights Commanders of the Royal
Victorian Order.
Commanders of the Royal Victorian Order.
Knights Bachelors.
Companions of the Bath.
Companions of the Star of India.
Companions of SS. Llichael and George.
Companions of the Order of the Indian Empire.
Members of the Fourth Class of the Royal
Victorian Order,
Companions of the Distinguished Ser\-ice Order.
Members of the Fifth Class of the Royal
Victorian Order.
Eldest Sons of the Younger Sons of Peers.
Eldest Sons of Baronets.
Eldest Sons of Knights of the Garter.
Eldest Sons of Bannerets.
Eldest Sons of Knights according to their father's
precedence.
Younger Sons of Baronets.
Younger Sons of Knights.
Esquires and Gentlemen.
TABLE OF PRECEDENCE AMONG LADIES
The Queen.
The Princess of Wales. ^
The Queen Mother.
Daughters of the Sovereign.
Sisters of the Sovereign.
Aunts of the Sovereign.
Wives of the Uncles of the Sovereign.
Nieces of the Sovereign.
Duchesses.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Dukes of the
Blood Royal.
Marchionesses.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Dukes.
Daughters of Dukes.
Countesses.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Dukes
of the Blood Royal.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Marquises.
Daughters of Marquises.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Dukes.
Viscountesses
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Earls.
Daughters of Eai-ls.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Marquises.
Baronesses.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Viscounts.
Daughters of Viscounts.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Earls.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Barons.
Daughters of Barons.
Maids of Honour to the Queen.
Wives of Kniglits of the Garter.
Wives of Bannerets made by the King in
person.
' There beinp no Princess of Wales at present the Queen
Mother comes next in precedence to the Queen.
358
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Wives of the Younger Sons of Viscounts.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Barons.
Wives of Baronets according to the dates of
their husbands' creation.
Wives of Bannerets not made by the Iving
in person.
Wives of Knights Grand Cross of the Bath.
Wives of Knights Grand Commanders of the
Star of India.
Wives of Knighta Grand Cross of SS. ]\Iicha"il
and George.
Wives of Knights Grand Commanders of the
Order of the Indian Empire.
Wives of Knights Grand Cross of the Royal
Victorian Order.
Wives of Knights Commanders of the Bath.
Wives of Knights Commanders of the
Star of India.
Wives of Knights Commanders of SS.
Michael and George.
Wives of Knights Commanders of tho Order
of the Indian Empire.
Wives of Knights Commanders of the Royal
Victorian Order.
Wives of Knights Bachelors.
Wives of Companions of the Bath.
Wives of Companions of the Star of India.
Wives of Companions of SS. INIichacl and George,
Wives of Companions of the Order of the
Indian Empire.
Wives of Members of the Fourth Class of the
Royal Victorian Order.
Wives of Companions of the Distinguished
Service Order.
Wives of Members of tho Fifth Class of the
Royal Victorian Order.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of the Younger
Sons of Peers.
Daughters of the Younger Sons of Peers.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Baronets.
Daughters of Baronets.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights of
the Garter.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights Bannerets.
Wives of the Eldest Sons of Knights.
Daughters of Knights.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Baronets.
Wives of the Younger Sons of Knights.
Wives of Esquires and Gentlemen.
PRESENTATION AT COURT
The reign of King Edward VII. saw many
ehanges in regard to tho ceremonies connected
with presentations and attendance at Court, and
it is presumed that tho rules proscribed by our
late king will be continued by King Goorgo. In
Queen Victoria's reign presentations were made
at " Drawing Rooms," which were held in the
day-time. Now the evening " Court " has super-
seded the old-time drawing-room. Tho time at
which these Courts are held is 10 p.m., and the
Lord Chamberlain gives previous notice as to
what time the company is expected to arrive.
Attendance and presentation at the Courts are
by invitation only, these invitations being con-
veyed through the Lord Chamberlain. Ladies
who wish to be presented at Court can only
be presented through one of their relatives or
acquaintances who has already been presented.
The one who makes the presentation must
attend the same Court as the lady she is pre-
senting.
Former Presentations. - Ladies who have been
presented at any Drawing Room held during
the reign of Iving Edward VII. do not require
to be again presented to King George and
Queen Mary. Whenever these ladies wish to
attend a Court or make a presentation they
should send in their names and the names of
those whom they wish to present to the Lord
Chamberlain, before the date by which the
Lord Chamberlain gives notice that all names
must be sent in.
Who may be Presented at Court. - All those
of good social position and of good reputation
are eligible for presentation at Court. No lady,
however high her rank, would be admitted
to Court if there were the least stain upon
her reputation. The wives and daughters
of members of the aristocracy, members of
parliament, the various professions, bankers,
merchants, in fact, all people of recognised sub-
stantial position are eligible for presentation,
providing a lady who has already been presented
is willing to fulfil this office for them.
Making Presentations. - The lady making the
presentation must be personally responsible ior
the character of the lady she presents. She
may present hei own daughters or daughters-
in-law and only one other lady in addition.
Presentations at each of their Majesties Courts
are limited by Royal Command.
Oflicial Presentations. - Presentations may be
made officially by the foreign ambassadresses,
the wives of members of tho Cabinet, and of
other official personages in tho several depart-
ments of the State. The restriction in regard
to tho presentation of one person only does not
apply to official presentations.
Ladies have to be presented again upon their
marriage and upon accession to titles. A lady
having been presented on her marriage may
attend any subsequent Court by invitation, but
if sho has no official position, she is only expected
to attend a Court once every fourth year.
Preliminary Formalities. - Only married ladies
may make presentations. An unmarried lady,
however high her rank, does not possess this
privilege. When a married lady desires to bo
presented she should write to the Lord Chamber-
lain requesting this honour, and stating in full
the name and rank of her husband, and of her
parents, and of the lady who is presenting her.
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
359
In the case of a girl debutante her mother or
the relative who is to present her should make
the application. It is necessary for a lady
making a presentation to attend herself at the
Court at which the presentation is to be made,
though it is not necessary for her to accompany
the person whom she presents. A married lady
presented at a Com-t can herself make a presenta-
tion at the same Court, but the person presented
by her must enter the Presence Chamber after
her and not before her.
Etiquette of Presentation. - At the beginning
of the year the Lord Chamberlain inserts a
notice in the newspapers requesting those who
wish to attend one of the Courts diu-ing the
year to send in their names ; usually the number
of Courts to be held aniounts to four, sometimes
five. Ladies who wish to attend them send
in their names, and also the names of the
ladies thoy wish to present. The Lord Chamber-
lain then forwards to each lady a card to be
filled up with full particulars, and when tliis
has been duly done and all is found satisfactory
an intimation is received from the Lord
Chamberlain that her name has been put on
the list for attendance at the Court, and the
invitation arrives.
Privilege of the Entree. - The Diplomatic
Circle, Cabinet Ministers and their wives, and
the members of the Household have what is
known as the Privilege of the Entree. They
enter at the gate of the Palace situated outside
Buckingham Gate. The rooms next to the
Presence Chamber are allotted to them. Those
who have the privilo'j;e of entree are received
by their Majesties according to precedency and
before the general assembly. In regard to the
general assembly there is no precedency as to
which ladies enter the Presence Chamber, the
earhest arrivals being the first admitted to
their Majesties' presence. Those who have the
privilege of entree have also the privilege of
making the first presentations.
Arrival at the Palace. - Upon arrival at the
palace a lady leaves her cloak in the cloak-room.
She must not forget to take her invitation card
with her. After being divested of her cloak she
goes through the hall and up the Grand Staircase
of the Palace to the corridor, carrying her train
upon her left arm. Her train must be carried
in tliis way until it is taken down and spread out
for her before entering the Presence Chamber.
She will not have to touch it in any way as all
this is done for her. In her right hand she holds
her box^quot - in her left hand the in^vitation
card. This she must be careful to hold right
side uppermost so that the name can be read
at once. When she has reached the corridor
she must show the invitation card to the page
in waiting, and then pass through into one of
the saloons. If the saloons are full she takes
a seat in the corridor until there is room for
her to enter. From tiie saloons she passes in
her turn to the Picture Gallery. Here her train,
is let down and spread out by two pages in
attendance, and she crosses through the Gallery
to the Presence Chamber, giving her card to the
usher at the door. There is usually a long line
of ushers, but the card is given to the nearest one
and is passed on by hinn until it reaches the
Lord Chamberlain. There will be a long Une of
ladies passing in turn to make their curtseys
in the royal presence. The debutante will make
one of that hne, and she must pay particular
attention to her deportment, because the least
gaucherie will make her conspicuous. The skirt
of her dress will be long enough in front to hide
her shoes - these should never be shown in any
circumstances ; the walk should be a graceful,
gliding movement, the feet gently pushing the
long silken skirts forward to prevent any danger
of tripping or other similar contretemps.
An important Point. - One important point for
the debutante to remember is that she must
never stand still once she has taken her place
in the hne of ladies who have entered the
Presence Chamber. She must keep walking,
taking very tiny steps if necessary, and if the
space between herself and the lady" in front of
her is so limited that the train of the latter is
in her way, it is permissible for her to gently
push it aside with her foot.
The Curtsey. - When it is her turn to curtsey
before the King the Lord Chamberlain reads
the name of the debutante, pronouncing the
magic words " to be presented." The debutante
must be right in front of the Eang as she
makes her curtsey. Needless to say, the curtsey
should be the perfection of grace, and requires a
great deal of rehearsal beforehand. Keeping the
body gracefully erect she should glide the left
foot backwards, and bending the knees, but not
the back, make the obeisance ; the right hand
containing the bouquet should be lowered
slightly so that the bouquet may not be in the
way. All appearance of nervousness and
fluster should be avoided. Wliilst paying her
homage the debutante should endeavour to
wear a cheerful expression, and as she rises
from the curtsey she should gracefully incline
her head to the King in acknowledgment, then
beginning on the right foot as she rises she
should take three gliding steps towards the
Queen, ciirtseying to her in the same way.
After rising and gently inclining her head as
to the King, she must follow the Une of ladies
who have already been presented, making her
way out of the Presence Chamber, ^\^lcn she
reaches the door she must turn quickh', holding
out her left arm with the elbow b>nt to receive
her train, wliich the page will throw over it.
She must bo sure to do this quickly in order
to catch it at the proper moment, or much
awkwardness might result.
Ladies do not now step backwards when leav-
ing the Royal Presence, nor do they curtsey to
360
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
any other members of the Royal Family but
the King and Queen. Formerly upon being
presented to Queen Victoria eacli lady had to
remove the glove from the right hand, and
when the words "to bo presented " were
tittered by tlie Lord Cliamberlain the Queen
would extend her hand, and the debutante
placing her own ungloved hand beneath Her
Majestj-"s, would kiss it as she made her curtsey.
Now a lady upon being presented does not kiss
the King's hand, but only curtseys to the
King and then to the Queen, who bow in
return.
There are so many points of etiquette in
r^ard to a presentation at Court that it is
absolutely necesseiry for a lady about to be
presented to take at leeist one lesson in deport-
ment beforehand. Mrs. Wordsworth of 47
Harrington Road, South Kensington, London,
•who is one of the best-known authorities on
Court etiquette and deportment, coaches debu-
tantes for the occasion of their presentation.
She teaches them how to hold their trains, how
to walk, how to curtsey, and how to conduct
themselves generally in the Royal Presence.
A lady's first appearance at Court is apt to be
somewhat of an ordeal when she is not quite
au fait with the procedure, and even if she is
fortunate enough not to make any actual faux
pas, her fear of doing so will keep her mind in
a state of constant perturbation. On the other
hand, she will have acquired the ease born of
self-confidence if she goes to Court fittingly
prepared. By arrangement with ^Irs. Words-
worth, classes for the purpose of instruction in
Court deportmonfe may be held by herself or her
assistants at all provincial and country districts.
Private lessons can also be arranged in the
same manner.
Court Dress. - Ladies must wear full Court
dress when attending or being presented at
Court ; the train to the dress must not be less
than three and a half yards in length. The
bodice must be low, and the sleeves short. The
train may be of any shape, and it may either
hang from the shoulders or from the waist.
A presentation dress should be white, but it
may be trimmed with coloured flowers if desired.
Plumes. - The head-dress consists of a veil
of white tulle and plumes. All ladies, married
and unmarried, must wear plumes. The married
ladies wear three white plumes, the unmarried
ladies two.
High Court Dress. - For the benefit of old
ladies and those who suffer from delicacy or
ill-health, the Queen has approved of a High
Coui t dress which maj' be worn by those to whom
for any of these reasons the ordinary low Court
dress is unsuitable. The bodice is cut square
or heart-shaped in front and filled in with
white. At the back the bodice may be high
or cut down the same way as the front.
The sleeves to the bodice are of elbow-length.
Ladies who wish to appear in High Court
dress must first obtain the Queen's permission.
White gloves only should be worn, excepting
in cases of mourning.
Bouquets are carried by both married and
unm"m:ied ladies.
CHURCH DECORATION
Women are often called upon to assist in the
decoration of their parish chiu-ch at various
festivals, and if they do not actually help in
the work they may hke to send in some floral
contributions. In doing this it is well to re-
member that all the colours employed in tlio
decoration of the church have some special
significance. Thus : -
White signifies innocence, glory, and joy.
Red stands for (o) the fire of love which the
Holy Ghost kindles within us ; (6) the blood of
the Martyrs.
Gold signifies glory.
Blue signifies Heaven, knowledge, contem-
plation.
Purple signifies penitence and fasting.
Black, death and darkness.
Green, the hope and desire of Heaven.
In regard to floral decoration, therefore, white
is the most appropriate colour for the wiiite
daj's, such as Cliristmas, the Circumcision, the
Epiphany, and Easter. WTiite and gold are
generally used for the latter festival, the Easter
Lily being a particularlj^ appropriate flower for
altar decoration on Easter Sunday. On Palm
Sunday the altar may be decorated with palms ;
the general decoration may also include bos,
yew, and wiUow.
Red is the colour for Pentecost and feasts
of martjTS.
Purple is the colour for Lent, with the excep-
tion of Good Friday, when black is used. As
a rule there should be no floral decorations
sent for either Advent or Lent ; this rule is,
however, generally departed from on the third
Sunday in Advent, the fourth Sunday in Lent,
and Holy Innocents' Day.
Christmas time is undoubtedly the festival
of the year when church decoration assumes
its most interesting aspect. Many church
workers eagerly volunteer their service not
only in regard to the decoration of the altar,
but also in regard to that of tlio whoie church.
Holly is the leading feature of the church de-
coration, whilst ivy, rosemary, and bay enter
into the general decorative scheme. Wreaths
of holly, ivy, and other green leaves are twisted
in and out around all the pillars, and wherever
there is a window-ledge or recess it is banked
with holly and green leaves. Very few people
know how to make wreaths and festoons properly.
It is always best to have a =olid foundation of
fine cording, and to make up bunches of holly
and leaves, tying them to this cording foundation
ETIQUETTE AND SOCIAL GUIDE
361
at regular intervals of a few inches the one from
the other. The bunches of holly and leaves
can be tied with fine twine, and the worker
should have all the necessary implements, such
as scissors, string, &c., ready to hand. If the
wreaths or festoons have no foundation of the
kind, and the various bunches are only tied
together and joined to one another without
the support of cord, they are apt to break away
from each other and thus present an untidy
appearance.
If several workers are engaged in decorating
the church at Christmas time it is always as
well to have some scheme of organisation by
which each member is allotted a particular
task ; under these circumstances the work is
brought to a quicker and a much more satis-
factory conclusion.
LIST OF LADIES' CLUBS
The following is a list of the principal Clubs in London with the Entrance and Subscription Fees.
Ahbreviatioiis- A.V.- Annual Subscription or Fee.
E.F.- Entrance Fee.
CM.- Country Member.
LONDON
Albemarle (Ladies and Gentlemen).- 37 Dover Street, W. E. F. £6, 6s. A. F. £6, 6s.
Alexandra.- 12 Grosvenor Street, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £5, 5s. C. M. £4, 4s.
Alliance.- 61 Curzon Street, Mayfair, W. A. F. £3, 3s.
Austral (Ladies and Gentlemen).- 38 Dover Street, W. E, F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s, C. M.
£2, 2s.
Athenoeu7n.-U Dover Street, W. E. F. £5, 6s. A. F. £5, 5s.
Army and Navy. - 2 Burlington Garden, W. E. F. £3, 3s. A. F. £5, 5s.
Empress.- 35 Dover Street, W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £5, 5s.
Empire.- m Grosvenor Street, W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £8, 8s.
Ladies' Imperial. - 17 Dover Street, W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £5, 5s.
Ladies' Park.- 32 Knightsbridge, S.W. E. F. £5, 5s. A. F. £4, 4s. and £3, Ss.
Lyceum.- US Piccadily, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £4, 4s. C. M. £3, 3s.
New Century. -Hay Hill, Berkeley Square, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £1, Is.
New County.- 21 Hanover Square, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s.
New Era.- 67 Curzon Street, Mayfair, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s. C. M. £2, 2s.
New Victorian.- 30a Sackville Street, W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £3, 3s.
Pioneer.- 5 Grafton Street, Piccadilly, W. E. F. £3, 3s. A. F. £3, 3s. and £2, 2s.
Sesame (Ladies and Gentlemen).- 28 and 29 Dover Street, W. E. F. £6, 6s. A. F. £6, 6s.
University. - 4 George Street, Hanover Square, W. E. F. £1, Is. A. F. £1, 10s.
Victoria.- U5 Victoria Street, S.W. E. F. £2, 2s. A. F. £5, 5s. C. M. £3, 3s.
TFn £1, Is.
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
How to keep within her income or allowance besides leaving a margin for savings and unforeseen
expenses is a problem wliich many a harassed housewife heis failed to solve. The simple rules in
regard to the suitable apportionment of the allowance and the best methods of keeping check upon
expenditure, which are given in the first part of tliis chapter, have been compiled as the result of
actual experience - they have been tried and found successful. In addition, all that every woman
ought to know in connection with the management of her affairs, including such important questions
as banking, insurance, and those points of law wliich are liable to crop up in ordinary every-day life,
are described and explained in as simple a manner as possible.
Allotment of the Income. - The value of money
is one of the first things every woman should
learn, and tliis is especially necessary in the
case of those who have anything to do with
household management, as the basis of all good
housekeeping lies in the proper control of the
household purse.
It would be a very good thing if every young
girl could be taught to keep an accurate account
of her own pocket-money as a preliminary to
undertaking expenses on a largo scale.
Successful management does not depend so
much on the size of the income, but rather upon
the spending of it to the best advantage. Those
who get into trouble with a small amount would
no doubt have similar difficulties if their income
were doubled or even trebled.
First of all then it is important to ascertain
the exact amount of your income, or at least
how much of it may bo safely expended on the
various items which come under the heading
of Household Expenses.
When starting housekeeping it is a good plan
to portion out the income so as to make it cover
all the expenses that are likely to occur for a
period of, say, throe months, six montlis, or a
year. For this purpose each detail of expen-
diture must bo jottod down under a distinctive
heading, such as rent, food, clothing, education,
&c., and a certain sum allotted to each division.
Everything must be bomo in mind, not only
the Current Expenses, i.e. those which run on
from day to day, such as rent and taxes, house-
hold expenses, insurance, charities, clothing,
and perhaps school fees, &c., but also Occasional
Expenses, such as holidays, travelling, recrea-
tion, hospitalities, pcssible medical attendance,
and any special outlay. An effort should also
be made to have a Reserve Fund, so that some-
thing at least, even although it may be a small
amount, is saved each year. The list must then
be added up and the amount of the expenses
compared with the amount of the income.
If the sum of the income exceeds that of the
expenditure, tilings are quite safe, we are living
witliin our means ; but if it is less, one or other
of our expenses must be cut off or curtailed.
Many schemes for the proportionate allotment
of the income have been drawn up, such as the
following : - •
Bent and taxes ....
Household expenses .
Clothing and charities
Education and travelling .
Insurance, incidental and sa\ing
But a table of this sort can only serve as a guide
and not by any means as a hard-and-fast rule
to go by. In fact, it is quite impossible to
draw up any scheme which will apply to every
household, as conditions vary so considerably.
This drawing up of a plan demands a certain
amount of careful calculation, and perhaps
just at first it will be impossible to arrive at
the best division of the means at disposal, but
if after a few months' trial this or that part of
the scheme is found not to work well, it is easy
to make alterations until the best possible allot-
ment of the income is secured.
When the income is a fixed one this is com-
paratively easy ; it is whore it is fluctuating or
uncertain that the greater difficulty comes in,
and in this case one can only plan for a shorter
time and count on the lowest sum.
To begin with, the amount necessary to pay
for rent will vary in different places, and while
one-sixth might bo found necessary for a suitable
house in town, in country districts one-eighth or
oven one-tenth of the income would be ample. It
must be remembered that the amount of rent
paid will very much influence the style of living,
and that it is not wise to go beyond a sum that
is in proportion to one's means.
Then, again, education foes will be very heavy
362
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
363
in some families, or special training fees in
order to equip one or other of its members for
a chosen career in life, while in other households
this kind of outlay is practically nil.
Doctors' fees may never be required some
years, while at other times they may be abnor-
mally heavy.
Then expenses due to appearances amount
to a considerable sum in some cases, and they
cannot well be curtailed without damaging the
reputation of the head of the house. This is
especially noticeable in the households of pro-
fessional men or women where a shabby, mean
appearance either in dress or household appoint-
ments would materially injvu-e their career.
With regard to clothing, where much can be
made at home the expense is decidedly less,
but where this is impossible a larger sum must
of necessity be allowed.
Thus it will be seen that there are certain
expenses which can be reduced in some houses
and not in others, and that the plan must be
made out accordingly.
It is best therefore for the head of the family
to make out his or her own plan, always being
careful to keep the expenses within a safe limit.
The income should always overlap the outlay,
and, in addition, there should if possible be a
Reserve Fund, as mentioned above.
A certain sum having been apportioned to
each set of expenses a system of book-keeping
should then be started.
Where a husband and wife are at the head of
the house it very often happens that the man
pays all the expense,- except those connected
with clothing and the house - keeping proper,
handing over to his wife a fixed sum weekly
or monthly for these requirements. This will,
of course, simplify the book-keeping for the
house-mistress, although under all circum-
stances the method to be adopted is very much
the same.
It is one of the duties of the mistress of the
house to keep an accurate account of all money
that comes under her charge. Many women
have a strong objection to keeping accounts
and content themselves with a rule of thumb
method of managing their affairs ; but this
haphazard way of dealing with money is almost
sure to lead to trouble sooner or later. A house-
keeper who keeps accounts will be amply repaid
for her trouble, and although at first it may
seem irksome and almost too gi'eat a strain
upon one's time and thought, yet when once
a simple method of book-keeping has been
mastered the entries become almost mechanical
and cause no trouble. Correct accounts are a
most valuable help against habits of extra-
vagance, and a neat record of one's income
and expenditure is a possession by no means
to be despised.
An elaborate system of book-keeping is not
necessary ; in fact, the simpler the plan adopted
the better. There should first of all be a
Cash-Box. Every woman who has charge of
money should furnish herself with a cash-box
fitted with lock and key in which to keep all
the money she has in hand. If this box has
separate divisions in which to put gold, silver,
and coppers, it will be all the more useful. This
is very important when considerable sums of
money have to be dealt with, and even when
the amount is small it is alwaj's wiser not to
leave money in open places. To lock it up is
not a sign that we mistrust people's honesty ;
at the same time it is not fair to put temptation
in any one's way.
The next thing is a Cash-Book. This should
be of a very good size and be ruled with money
columns. There are several different house-
keeping books on the market, ruled ofi with
different headings under wliich to put the
different items, but these are, as a rule, too
complicated, and a simple account-book can be
made to serve the purpose admirably.
The cash-book should show three things at a
glance : (1) the amount of money received to
date ; (2) the i mount of money paid out to
date ; and (3) the balance.
On the right-hand page enter all pajTnents
made, putting the date to each day before be-
ginning the entries. This is called the credit
side, and is a record of all that goes out.
On the left-hand page enter all money you
have in hand to begin with, then anj' money
received or drawn from the bank with the cor-
responding dates. This is called the debit side
and is a record of all that comes in.
This is all that is required for the daily entries,
and ten minutes a day should suffice for the
transaction if the work is carried out with
regularity and accuracy.
Tlien at the end of the week or on a fixed
day each week the account should be balanced.
To Balance the Account. - To do this first add
up very carefully the columns on both pages,
and then compare the amount spent on the
right-hand page with the amount on the left-
hand page. If the amount on the credit side
is less than the sum entered on the debit side
the money remaining in the cash-box should
equal the difference. This is called the Balance
in Hand, and should be added on to the right-
hand page in order to make both columns aUke.
After ruling off the account the cash in hand
should be brought down to start the debit side
of the next week's account. When a page is
finished, whether it be the left-hand or the
right-hand one, the entries on both sides should
be stopped, and if one page has a blank space
left a line should bo drawn diagonally across it
to show that no further entries should be
made there.
Tlie plan given on the next page will serve to
show what is meant by the above explanation.
It is intended as a guide to method only.
This keeping of a cash-book is the simplest
form of book-keeping, and if all that is required
is a simple record of the food bills and working
expenses of the household it may be deemed
sufficient ; but if the expenditure of the whole
income has to be accounted for something more
will be necessary. The drawback to this simple
form is that there is no attempt at classification,
and it does not show how the expenditure is
being divided under the various headings of
food, clothing, rent, &c., and whether the limits
agreed upon at the commencement are being
adhered to. To obtain this information the
different items would require to bo separately
posted to another book, and this book would
bo called The Lrdger.
To Post the Ledger. - At regular intervals all
the items in tho cash-book should bo cleissified in
another book. It is just a question how many
headings should bo made for household expen-
diture ; an over-detailed classification should bo
avf'ided, as it makes too much demand upon
our time. Hero, again, simplicity coupled with
accuracy should bo aimed at.
The number of headings must vary according
to circumstances, but tho minimum might be
the following : -
1. Rent and taxes.
2. Food account.
3. Other household expenses.
4. Clothing.
5. Education, books, and stationery.
6. Insurance aud charities.
7. Travelling and holiday expenses.
8. Incidental expenses.
The ledger need only be made up once in three
months, or at most once a month. We shall
then have an exact statement as to where tho
money has gone, and if retrenchment is nocosfaary
it will serve eis a distinct guide as to where wo
shall require to curtail expenditure.
The following table will serve as a guide to
the arrangement of the Ledger.
Quarterly Expenditure
£ .. d.
Rent and taxes 15 0 0
Food Account 30 10 0
Other household expenses . . . 12 14 0
Clothing II 18 0
Education, books and stationery . 14 0 0
Insurance and charities .... 8 17 0
Travelling and holidays .... 660
Incidental expenses 5 9 0
£104 14 0
Or, if the mistress of the house has only the
money spent on household bills to account for.
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
365
Grocer . .
Fishmonger
Baker . .
Butcher
a simple and more detailed analysis might be
made out monthly in the following manner : -
Monthly Household Bills
2 2 0
10 0
12 0
2 10 0
Milk, eggs and butter 1 10 0
Greengrocer 10 0
Wasiiing 180
Repairs 0 12 0
£11 4 0
HOUSEHOLD EXPENSES
This term applies to all expenses connected
with housekeeping proper, such as food, washing,
fuel and light, servants, wages, cleaning materials,
repairs, &c., so that the fixed sima which has
been allotted under the above heading will re-
quire to be judiciously apportioned amongst the
various items mentioned in order that it may
be used to the best advantage.
With regard to the actual food allowance,
there is great diversity of opinion as to what
should be spent per week. Certain fixed stan-
dards have indeed been set up which have come
to be regarded as reasonable, but these will
naturally vary with individual circumstances, as,
for instance, the number to be fed, individual
taste and requirements, and the means at
disposal.
The allowance for f". od is generally calciilated
at a certain sum per head. This sum will vary
in accordance with the number of people to be
provided for, a smaller amount per head being
necessary in the case of a lai'ge family than in
the case of a small one, the expense per head
in the case of one or two people being much
greater than in any other circumstances. For
a grown-up family of moderate means, where
all the members dine at home and meat is eaten
every day, and all have good healthy appetites,
lOs. per head per week would be thought a very
fair sum to provide a nice table with good
variety, a Httle extra being allowed for any
visitors. If this sum is beyond what can be
afforded a sufficiency of good nourishing food
can be provided for much less, or from 5s. to 8s.
per head, but this will require more thought
and management, and such things as game and
poultry would not figure largely on the bill of
fare. It is generally necessary to allow the same
amount for servants as for the other members
of the family. Of course, there are many whose
means are not limited who will consider the
above figiu-es ridiculously small, and who would
require 15s. or even £1 per week to supply all
their warts. The reason why a moderate
amount in many cases proves insufficient is
very often owing to waste of material, extrava-
gance in buying, or lack of knowledge as to
how to make the most of things.
A small food allowance presupposes favour-
able opportunities for marketing, as, for instance,
in the case of people living in the country where
garden produce is cheap and also farm produce,
although, on the other hand, they may have to
pay more for their groceries and butcher meat.
In order to use a food allowance to the best
advantage, a certain knowledge of cookery and
the dietetic properties of food is also necessary.
The house -mistress must just make up her mind
as to what is a legitimate amount to spend on
food, and if it comes to having to curtail ex-
penses there are always other ways of doing it,
but there must be a sufficiency of good whole-
some food before everything else.
It is not always an easy matter to cut down
expenditure, and few people enjoy economising,
yet in hundreds of cases it has to be done.
Saving can be effected in many ways. For
instance, one can discontinue the use of wine and
other Ivixuries, reduce the number of servants,
have washing done at home, make one's own
clothes, and last, but not least, avoid spending
money on trifles. This is a perfect habit with
some people. Shop windows have such a fasci-
nation for them that they can rarely pass by with-
out going in to buy some knick-knack or other,
spending as much money in this way as they
do on drefs, and there is nothing to show for it.
Sales are also a temptation to many : they are
persuaded to buy an article or piece of material
for which they have not the slightest need,
simply because the price looks cheap, and they
do not like to miss what seems to them a bargain,
when in reality it is waste of money. The
greatest point of all in cutting down expenditure
is to prevent waste and to adopt economical
methods without in any way being mean and
stingy.
Payment of Household AccouQts. - It is just a
question whether it is better to pay ready money
or to have weekly, fortnightly, or monthly ac-
counts. If the ready-money system is adopted
it means more entering up each day, and there
is more detail work. A small note-book would
require to be kept in addition to the cash-book
in order to jot down each payment when it is
made, as it is useless to burden one's memory
unnecessarily. But it is not easy to pay ready
money for everything, and upon the whole
weekly payments, which practically amount to
the same thing, are preferable, as they save the
trouble of so many small payments. A set
of house-books too save an amount of trouble,
and seem to keep the matter in a more concise
form. In small households this system should
certainly be adopted, and especially so if the
income is a limited one. Running up long bills
is not economical, and if you wish to be well
served you should make up your mind to pay
the house-books regularly.
366
THE WO^IAN'S BOOK
Of coxirse there are special circumstances
where it is not convenient to pay weekly, and
where even the trades-people prefer a montlily
payment, but the books sliould in any case
be made up and chocked weoklj'. If accounts
are only rendered once a month it is much
more difficult to keep a check on the items, and
mistakes are apt to pass uimoticed.
The Checking and Filing of Bills. - Each bill
as it is received should be carefullj' examined
and the various items checked and verified.
Bills should never be paid until this has been
done. Tlie small vouchers which ought to ac-
company all goods sent in by the trades-people
must be kept for this purpose, and also all
weight tickets such as would be sent with meat
or coal. With regard to milk and bread, which
are usuallj* taken daily from a man at the door,
it is a good plan to keep a small book or slate
at hand in which the daily amount is marked
down.
All bills, when they have been paid, should be
receipted and kept for future reference. Occa-
sionally a bill may be presented a second time,
and this mistake may happen even with the
best houses, and unless the receipt can be pro-
duced the pajonent will in all probability have
to be made again. Loose bills can either be
kept on files bought for the purpose, or they
can be folded lengthwise with the name and
date of payment outside, and then encircled
with an india-rubber band. Tliey must always
be arranged in an order which ^^'ill allow of
ready discovery.
BANKING
The Business of a Bank. - The bank is a most
important factor in both our commercial and
social life. Nearly all payments in business are
made through the medium of a bank, and almost
every individual of any standing in private hfo
has a banking account.
Besides taking charge of the money of liis
customers, it is a banker's business to pay
cheques issued by them, to collect the value of
cheques paid to them, to attend to and discount
their bills, and, if necessary, to take charge of
their securities, their jewels, or other valuable
property. The money that is paid into a bank
is not allowed to lie idle in its safes. If that
were so there would be no profit in a banker's
business. A large proportion is lent by the
bank at a much higher rate of interest than
is paid to depositors. The difference in this
interest represents the banker's profits.
Interest. - Interest is a certain sum paid in
return for the use of money. It is always
calculated at so much per cent. {i.e. per hundred)
jjer annum. Thus -
2i per cent. =£2, lOs. in every £100, Cd. in every £1.
5 per cent. =£5 in every £100, is. in every £1.
7J per cent. =£7, lOs. in every £100, Is 6d. in every £1.
10 per cent. =£10 in every £100, 2s. in every £1.
Simple and Compound Interest. - The sum
upon wliich interest is eillowed is called the
" principal." The interest allowed upon the
original " principal " only is called " simple
interest." ^\^len, however, the simple interest
is allowed to accumulate and be added to the
principal, it ranks as an increased principal, and
interest calculated upon the larger sum obtained
in this way is known as " compound interest."
Bank Notes. - Some banks have a right to
issue bank notes to the public. These are
printed on special paper and are equivalent to
their amount in cash. English bank notes are
issued for sums of £5 and upwards, while
Scottish and Irish banks issue £1 notes as well.
Bank of England notes are legal tender, and are
accepted both in Britain and abroad almost as
readily as gold. £1 Scotch or Irish notes are
only of the value of 19s. lid. in England.
How to Open a Banking Account. - Some
women have a very vague idea of the formalities
to be observed in opening a banking account,
and of the difference between what is known
as a Deposit Account and a Current or Credit
Account.
In opening a banking account it is usually
necessary to have an introduction to the bank
from some person known to it. £50 is usually
the minimimi sum for which London banks
will open an account ; but there are, of course,
exceptions, and accounts are opened for much
smaller sums by most of the suburban and
provincial houses.
The Deposit Account. - If it is wished to leave
the money on deposit at interest the bank will
have to be notified that a " Deposit " account
is to be opened. The customer will then have
to write her signature clearly and distinctly in
the bank's signature book for purposes of
identification, and she will receive a receipt
from the bank known as a " Deposit Receipt."
In London interest should be paid on the sum
deposited at the rate of 1^ per cent, below bank
rate (see p. 309) ; that is, if the bank rate is
4 per cent, she will obtain interest at the rate
of 2 J per cent.
A week or a fortnight's notice is usually re-
qiu'red by a bank before the withdrawal of money
left on deposit. It is as well to ascertain what
notice is required before banking money in this
way. Many banks, however, are willing to pay
the money without notice when necessary. The
deposit receipt should be sent to the bank every
six months in order that the interest may be
calculated. The latter may be withdrawn or
arVled to the principal as preferred.
Joint Deposits. - A deposit may be made
jointly by more than one person. In this case
all the names will appear on the receipts, and
the money will not be paid over except on receipt
of all the signatures ; so it would, where desired,
be convenient to have the receipt made out
payable upon the signature of a certain one only.
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
367
If the depositor dies, the money can be with-
drawn by the executor or administrator upon
production of the probate or letters of ad-
ministration.
It is never wise to be secretive in regard to
money deposited with a bank, for if the de-
positor should die and the receipt were over-
looked or lost, and consequently no demand
ever made for payment, the bank would not
think of communicating with the deceased per-
son's relatives, and at the end of six years
the unclaimed deposit would become the bank's
own property.
Credit or Current Account. - A current account
is one from which the customer may draw money
by cheque at will, and into which she can make
payments when convenient.
A woman should be careful never to vary her
signature in signing cheques, but to keep it in
every way the same as that by which she signed
her name in the signature book. Until the
officials at the bank become familiar with her
writing all signatures on cheques are compared
with that in the signature book for identifica-
tion, and should there be any marked discrepancy
between the two, difficulty in obtaining payment
of the cheques might result.
The bank generally makes a charge equivalent
to an eighth per cent, upon the withdrawals
for the working of a small account.
After the customer has compUed with the
preliminaries of signing her name in the bank's
signature book, and paying in the money, the
bank will hand her a " paying-in " slip book,
a " pass-book," and a cheque-book.
The Paying-in Book. - Each page of the
paying-in " slip book " is perforated down the
centre. Particulars of the amount paid in,
whether by gold, silver, or notes, country or
London cheques, are filled in on each side of the
perforation, then the book is handed to the
receiving cashier, who tears off the right-hand
slip for the use of the bank, initialling the one
that remains in the book, leaving it both as
record and receipt in the hands of the customer.
The Pass-Eook. - In the customer's pass-book
the bank enters all records of the account in
regard to sums paid in and withdrawals. In a
little pocket in the pass-book are placed all
cheques whicli have been paid away by the
customer and returned to i\ e bank in the course
of business. It is as well to keep these cheques,
as they form incontestable proof and receipts of
money paid out. The pass-book should be left
in the hands of the bank as much as possible
in order that the accounts can be regularly
kept.
The Cheque-Book.- The cheque-book is a book
containing a certain number of stamped forms
called " cheques," which every bank suppUes
to its customers, who are charged with the cost
of the stamps. Each cheque is perforated so
that it can be easily detached from the book.
To the left of the perforation is a small counter-
foil which remains in the book, and upon
which a record of each payment by cheque is
entered.
Tlie cheque presents many mysteries to the
average feminine mind. Briefly, a bank cheque
is an order in writing to a bank from its customer
to pay on demand a certain sum of money to
a person whose name is given on the cheque.
Each cheque is hable to a stamp duty of one
penny, and the stamp is usually impressed upon
the printed form. The person who draws the
cheque is called the " drawer," and the person
or firm to whom it is payable is called the
" payee."
A cheque may be drawn " to order " or "to
bearer." In the former case the " payee "
can obtain payment at the bank named by
writing her name across the back of the cheque.
This is known as " endorsing " a cheque.
An order cheque always needs endorsing,
whereas it is not necessary to endorse a cheque
made payable to " bearer " ; any person can
obtain payment on presenting a " bearer "
cheque.
Alteration on Cheques. - A cheque can be
altered from " bearer " to " order " by running
the pen through the former word and sub-
stituting the word " order." This may be done
by the drawer or the payee, but only the drawer
may alter a cheque from " order " to " bearer,"
it being necessary in this case to put his or her
initials under the correction made. Any altera-
tion in the amount must be initialled by the
drawer.
Great care should always be taken in filling
in a cheque. The first figure of the sum payable
should alwaj-s be placed close to the £ mark,
so that there is no possibiUty of another figure
being placed before it. In the same way the
dots or hyphen separating the pounds from
shillings should be close to the last figure of the
pounds, so that there is no chance of adding a
figiu-e to the pounds total.
Crossing Cheques. - Cheques are crossed for
greater safety and to ensure their being paid
into a banking account. When crossed cheques
are used the risk of fraud is greatly minimised.
A crossed cheque cannot be exchanged for
cash at the coimter of the bank of the drawer ;
the payee must pay it into her own bank if she
has one. If not she must get change for it
from some one who has.
Different Methods of Crossing Cheques. - A
cheque is crossed generally by drawing across its
face two parallel transverse lines either with
or without the words "and Co." between them.
Cheques so crossed cannot be exchanged for
cash at the counter of the bank. The payee
must employ her banker to collect the money for
her by paying it into her bank account. If she
has not a bank accoimt she must get some one
who has one to cash it for her.
368
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
It is crossed specially (1) by inserting the
name of the bank through which the pajTiient is
Examples of General Crossings.
to be made, in the crossing, or (2) by inserting
the name of the person to whose account the
payment is to be made, or (3) by inserting
both the name of the bank and the name of the
person to whose account it has to be credited.
Examples of Special Crossings.
U) Means that the cheque can only be cashed through
Parr's Bank.
(2) Means that only the payee can get cash for the
cheque, and only from the hank where he has an account.
(3) Specifies not only tlie account to which the cheque
is to be paid, but the biuik where such account is kept.
The crossing of a cheque does not affect its
negotiability, and if a crossed cheque has been
stolen after being endorsed, the person who
takes it from the thief in good faith and gives
value for it can enforce payment of it, even
though the cheque has been stopjjed. The loss
will fall upon the payee. In order to destroy
the negotiability of a cheque, the words, " not
negotiable " must form part of the crossing.
Whoever then takes the cheque can have no
better title to it than the person who gave it to
him had.
Aa a still further safeguard to prevent the
addition of figtires, it is well to %\Tite across the
cheque that the sum is under a certain amount.
For instance, the words " under ten pounds "
written across a cheque for nine pounds would
clearly indicate that the amount was £9 and
not £90, and all possibiUty of fraud would
be prevented.
Dishonoured Cheques. - A cheque is said to be
dishonoured when it is returned from the bank
because the drawer has not sufficient money to
his (or her) credit to meet it. Cheques returned
in this way arc qronerally marked " R.D." (refer
to drawer) or " N.S." (not sufficient funds).
Stopping Payment. - A drawer can stop pay-
ment of a cheque after having parted with it
by immediately notifying her banker in writing
not to pay it on presentation. Full details as
to date, amount, and name of payee should be
given. A payee who has lost a cheque after
ha\dng endorsed it should at once notify the
drawer of tliis fact, so that payment is stopped
before any one else has had time to cash it.
How to Write a Cheque on Ordinary Paper. -
All cheques should be drawn upon the form
provided by the banker ; this tends to prevent
forgery, and at the same time is more convenient
to the customer, as the counterfoils in the
cheque-book may be made a useful means of
record. But there is nothing to prevent a
cheque being drawn upon an ordinary sheet of
paper if the customer so desires, though in that
case the signature should be written across a
penny postage stamp.
Cheques Payable to Self. - An order cheque
may be made payable to the drawer. In this
case it must be filled in " Pay to Self," and must
be endorsed by the drawer.
Delay in Cashing Cheques. - Cheques should
always be presented for payment as soon as
possible. When the payee holds back a cheque
for as long as six months, the banker will not
cash it until he has obtained the consent of
the drawer. Cheques are subject to the Statute
of Limitations, and therefore payment cannot
be enforced if they are presented after six years.
Overdrafts. - A customer who is able to furnish
her bank with good securities may obtain an
advance or " overdraft " from her bankers
should she so wish it. On any of the following
securities overdrafts may be arranged : - Consols,
Colonial Government Stock, Municipal Bonds,
railway debentures, good industrial stoclta and
shares, personal securities and life policies.
The money lent in this manner by the bank
is debited with interest to an account called the
" loan account." The whole sum is then placed
to the customer's current account, and the
customer has to pay interest on the whole sum
borrowed, even though the necessities of her
case may require part of the sum to lie to her
credit in the current account.
Unless an overdraft has been arranged with
her bank it is dangerous for a woman to draw
cheques for a larger amount than the balance
at her credit. By doing so she incurs the dis-
credit of having her cheques returned dis-
honoured from the bank to the payee.
Circular Notes. - When a woman going abroad
wishes to avoid the risk and trouble of carrying
large sums of money she can obtain from her
banker " circular notes," in each of which the
banker requests his foreign correspondents to
pay to the person named in an accompanying
letter a certain sum. This letter is called " a
letter of indication," and is signed by the banker
and by the payee, in order to lessen the risks
of personation and of forgery. It contains a
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
list of the foreign banks at which the circular
notes can be cashed. These notes are of no
value without the letter of indication and vice
versd.
Bank of England. - The most important of all
oiir banks is the Bank of England. It may be
said, indeed, to be a national institution.
It fixes the rate of interest, is the bank in
which the revenue collected by the Government
from all parts of the country is deposited, and
is the agent for the Government in transacting
all such financial business as relates to the
raising of Government loans whether for perma-
nent or for temporary purposes. It also holds
the cash reserves of other banks and manages
the bvisiness in connection with the National
Debt. Apart from these special circvmistances,
the Bank of England is in the same position as
all other banks, transacting business as a private
bank in the same manner as they do.
Bank Rate is the name given to the price at
winch the Bank of England states it is willing
to grant loans.
The raising of the bank rate means that more
will be charged upon loans and paid upon
deposits. The lowering of the bank rate means
that less will be charged upon loans and paid
upon deposits.
The bank rate varies with the supply of and
demand for gold. A high rate indicates that
there is a scarcity of money in the market, and
the bank rate is raised whenever there is Hkely
to be an outflow of gold from England. When
the bank reserve is high, and there is a great
influx of money, the rate is lowered.
The London banks generally allow interest on
deposits at 1^ per cent, below bank rate unless
the latter is very low.
The Bank Return. - Every week the Bank of
England issues a report as to its financial posi-
tion. This is known as the " Bank Return,"
and every week each of the leading newspapers
publishes an analysis of the bank rotiirn in what
is known as the " Money Article."
The return is made up by the bank on
Wednesday, and a copy posted up outside the
bank on the following Thiu-sday afternoon.
The Post Office Savings Bank.- The Post Office
Savings Banks are established by Act of Parlia-
ment, and every depositor has the direct security
of the State for the repayment of deposits.
Unlike ordinary banks, where it is very seldom
that an account can be opened for less than
£50, m the Post Office Savings Bank an account
may be opf led for one shilling.
For the savings of a woman of limited income
the Post Office Sa\'ings Bank is the ideal medium,
for interest at the rata of 2^ per cent, per annum
IS allowed on every complete pound deposited,
and any sum from one shilling upwards, but
excluding pence, is accepted as an ordinary
deposit. The depositor can open her account
at any post office in the United Kingdom
365
She is handed a book, at the beginning of which
she must sign her name, address, and occupation,
intimating whether she is married or single'
In this book the Post Office officials enter each
payment as it is made, stamping it with the
stamp of the office into which the money is
paid. Tliis constitutes a sufficient receipt for
any sum under £5; but for sums of £5 and
upwards a receipt is received by post from the
head of the Savings Bank Department in
London, In this book all withdrawals are also
entered. Money withdrawals can be made from
any post office branch in the Kingdom. For
sums of over £1 a withdrawal form must be
asked for, and this, when filled in, is posted to
the chief office of the Savings Bank Department
in London, the depositor receiving in the course
of a day or two a warrant for payment of the
amount she wishes to withdraw. She can
obtain payment of this warrant at any post
office on the production of her bank book, into
which the necessary entries have to be made.
She can also pay money in to her account at any
post office.
Any sum up to a pound may be withdrawn
'' on demand " at any post office by filling in a
" withdrawal on demand form," but in these
circumstances the depositor is required to hand
over her book, which is sent to the head office
of the Savings Bank Department for examination.
No charge ^or postage is made to the depositor,
if in the United Kingdom, for any letter passing
between her and the chief office on Post Office
Savings Bank business.
No more than £50 can be deposited in one
year except for investment in Government
Stock or for the purchase of an Annuity or
Insurance (see p. 372). Except for the same
purposes no deposit can be made which causes
the balance due to a depositor, including interest,
to exceed £200.
Forms to which stamps may be affixed are
supplied at the post office for the assistance of
children and others who are unable to save more
than a penny or two at a time. For each penny
saved a stamp is purchased and affixed to the
form. When twelve stamps have been affixed
in this manner, the form can be handed in at
any of the post offices as a shilling deposit.
It \ril] be seen that the Post Office puts every
facility in the way of people with hmited in-
comes for saving their " mite," however small
it is, with the added benefit of a fair rate of
interest and also the advantage of economy in
the working of its accounts, and absolute
security.
Post Office Savings Bank Accounts may be
opened on behalf of children under seven years
of age, but in this case the money may not be
withdrawn until the child has attained that age.
All childi-en of seven years and upwards might
well be encouraged to save their money in tliis
simple way. The sense of responsibiUty im
2a
370
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
parted by the management of their own little
accounts will tend to inculcate a knowledge of
the value of money, combined with a habit of
thrift which cannot fail to stand them in good
stead in later years.
DEBT
A debt is a certain svun of money owed by
one person to another. The person who owes
money is termed the debtor, and the person to
whom the money is owed is known as the
creditor.
Recovery of Debt. - If, after several applica-
tions for payment of a debt by the creditor, the
debtor still fails to pay it, the usual means of
procedure for the creditor to take for its recovery
is to sue the debtor for it.
Where to Sue lor a Debt. - If the debt is less
than £20 the creditor must bring his action in
the County Court. Where the debt is between
£20 and £100 the creditor ottght to bring his
action in the County Court, unless he is certain
that the debtor has no defence to the claim,
in which case he may bring it in the High Coiirt
and obtain summary judgment against the
debtor, a more expeditious way than the process
of the County Court. \Vhere debt exceeds £100
proceedings must be first instituted in the High
Court, though in some cases the High Court
will remit the action for hearing in the County
Court.
Limitations of Actions lor Debt. - Actions to
recover ordinary debts must be brought witliin
six years from the time when they became duo,
or within six years of the last pajTnent or any
part of the principal or interest, or within six
years of the last acknowledgment in writing of
the debt, which acknowledgment must uncondi-
tionally import a promise to pay : a conditional
promise will cause it to be invalid as an ac-
knowledgment.
In the case of debts due upon a bond or other
instrument under seal, including mortgage debts
and debts under a Bill of Sale, the period of
limitation is twenty years, and in action for the
recovery of money charged on lands for the
recovery of the land itself the time limit is
twelve years.
Banliruptcy. - The law of bankruptcy affords
relief to insolvent debtors who, by surrendering
their property for the benefit of their creditors,
are in return relieved from liability in regard to
their debts. A petition of bankruptcy can be
filed by the debtor himself, or by his creditors.
The Court then issues a " Receiving Order," by
which the Official Receiver becomes the receiver
or protector of the property until a trustee has
been appointed by the creditors. Within seven
days of the receiving order being made the
debtor must furnish to the Official Receiver
a statement of his affairs, and after he heis
- furnished this statement he must attend for
public examination before the Registrar, on
which occasion he must answer questions on
oath. Within fourteen days after the receiving
order a general meeting of the creditors is held,
and this meeting decides whether the debtor
shall be adjudged bankrupt, or whether a com-
position or an agreement shall be accepted
from him. If he is adjudged bankrupt, the
creditors then appoint a trustee to wind up the
bankrupt's estate. On the appointment of the
trustee the property of the bankrupt pa.sses to
him, and it is his duty to realise the property
and to divide the proceeds among the creditors.
Discharge. - At any time after he has been
declared a bankrupt, but not until his public
examination has been concluded, the bankrupt
may apply for liis discharge. The Coiu-t will, as
a rule, grant the discharge provided that a good
dividend has been paid to the creditors, that
the bankrupt shows that his accounts have been
properly kept, that he has not been recklessly
extravagant or indulged in reish or hazardous
speculation, or been guilty of misdemeanour in
his business.
Until he does get his discharge the bankrupt
labours under many disabilities ; one of the
chief of these is that should he obtain credit
without disclosing the fact that he is an un-
discharged bankrupt, he is guilty of a criminal
offence, and is liable to imprisonment.
Married Women and Bankruptcy. - A married
woman carrying on a trade separately from her
husband can be made a bankrupt.
INSURANCE
Insurance is a matter little understood and
little entered into by women, who, however, are
beginning to look into it more closely now that
the passing of the " Workmen's Compensation
Act " has made the insurance of servants by
their employers a matter of almost vital neces
sity in every house.
Insurance may be defined as " a conu-act by
which a person (called the insurer or assurer),
in consideration of a lump sum of money, oi' of
a periodical paj-mont called the premium, under-
takes to pay to another (called the insured
or assured) a larger sum on the happening of
a particular event. The deed in which the
contract of insurance is contained is called the
policy of insurance, the term policy being derived
from a Latin word signifying promise.
Nearly every risk to which wo are liable may
be insured against, including epidemic illness,
accident, and sickness. Football and cricket
clubs frequently insure against loss in the
receipts from the sea.son's play. Organisers of
bazaars and other entertainments do the like.
The more common forms of insurance are Life
Assurance, Fire and Marine, to which may be
added Accident and Biu-glary Insurance.
Life Assurance. - The word "assurance" is
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
really the correct term when a life policy is taken
out, insurance being applied to all other policies ;
but colloquial use has made now the word
insurance apply to both Ufa and other policies,
hence the term " insurance " is pretty generally
used for both. In life assurance, in return
for the payment of a stipulated premium pay-
able at regular intervals, the insurance company
undertakes to pay a lump sum to the person or
persons for whose benefit the contract is made,
upon the death of the person insured. Life
insurances may also be taken out for a certain
number of years at a much less premium than
that charged for the whole life. If the person
insiu-ed dies witliin this period the whole amount
of the insurance is payable upon his (or her)
death to the next of kin.
Careful attention to all the conditions laid
down in an insurance policy is necessary. A
very slight misunderstanding on the part of the
person who is taking out the insurance may,
in the event of loss, result in the company deny-
ing their liability on the grounds that the con-
ditions have not been fully complied with.
Assurance or Insurance with Profits. - In an
insurance which carries profits the company
allows the policy-holder a share in the sur-
plus or profits of the company. For this privi-
lege a higher rate of premium is charged. At
the end of every five or seven years a valua-
tion is made of the properties or assets of the
company and its liabilities. The siu-plus or
profits of an insurance company represent the
figure at which its assets exceed its expenses
and Habihties. This su plus is ascertained and
distributed at certain fixed intervals, usually
every five or seven years. The profits so gained
are called bonuses, and are distributed amongst
the policy-holders in the form of bonus additions
to their accounts. The policy-holder may either
draw the bonus in cash, have it added to the
amount for which he (or she) is insured, or use it
as a fund for reducing the payment of futiu-e
premiums. One or two insurance companies
have adopted the practice of a yearly valuation
and bonus distribution.
Insurance Faculties for People of Limited Means.
- Formerly it was a somewhat heavy under-
taking for men and women of limited means to
insure their lives. Either quarterly or annual
payments of the premium were the rule, and
with some people, more especially those of
fluctuating incomes, payments of a lump sum
at these intervals was well-nigh impossible.
Also, if tho premiums were not promptly paid,
the policies would expire, and tho sum of money
already paid as premium would consequently
be forfeited. Much greater facilities are now
bemg placed in the way of people of limited
means and men and women workers.
Premiums can be paid in small sums and at
short intervals. Many of the companies now
accept small monthly payments with a time
371
allowance of a fortnight in which to make each
payment, and a system has been adopted for
using what is termed the " surrender value " of
the pohcy held - generally about one-third to
one-half of the premiums already paid as a
fund for the continuance of payments which
for a time the holder finds it impossible to meet,
so that the pohcy may not lapse.
Should the investor desire to discontinue the
insurance, many of the companies allow either
the surrender value in cash or a fully paid up
policy for a reduced amount, free from payment
of any further premiums.
A number of the companies have also aban-
doned the practice of charging a higher rate
for the insurance of women than that charged
for insuring men, and the medical examination
which was formerly always necessary before the
making of an insurance contract has now to a
large extent been done away with.
Endowment Insurance. - Endowment insur-
ance secures the payment of a lump sum to the
person insured when he (or she) attains a certain
age stipulated in the pohcy. By regular pay-
ment of the premium, therefore, a young woman
of from twenty to thirty could at the age of say
forty-five be entitled to the payment of any
sum from £100 upwards, according to the
amount for which she is insured. Should she
die before that age the whole of the insurance
money woul 1 be paj'able to her heirs. In con-
nection with this scheme of insurance many
offices make a feature of annuities both " Im-
mediate " and " Deferred."
Immediate Annuities are secured by the pay-
ment of a lump sum down to the Insurance
Company. Deferred Annuities, payable after
the person insured has reached a certain age,
can be secured either by payment of a single
premium, or by quarterly, half-yearly, or yearly
premiums in accordance with the varj-ing
conditions enforced by different insurance com-
panies. The "annuities" and "endowment"
forms of insurance make ideal investments for
the woman worker dependent upon her own
resources, for by payment of a small sum
annually, under either of the schemes, she can
secure herself against penury in her old age,
when she will no longer be able to work as in
her youth.
Endowments for Children. - Tlie object of the
endowment of children is to afford parents the
means of having their children educated and
started in life. They by this means secure to
every child which may be born to them a
given sum, to bo paid in each case on tho cliild
attaining any specified age, say from 14 to 21
years. Tlie advantages offered to yoimg
married persons by thus securing a fixed sum
for every one of their children, however groat
tho number, must bo ob\nous to every person
who reflects on the care and anxiety atten-
dant on providing for a numerous family. The
372
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
necessary funds are thus furnished wherewith to
meet the school expenses of sons and daughters,
the support of sons at college, the dowry of
daughters, and the entry of sons or daughters
into the professions or commercial life.
Government Annuities and Insurance. - Imme-
diate or dofi^rrod annuities, if not less than
£1, and not exceeding £100, receivable half-
yearly with Government security for the pay-
ment of the money at the proper time, may be
purchased through the medium of the Post
Office Sa\'ings Bank on the lives of persons of
either sex, and of the age of five years and
upwards. On the death of an annuitant a
single payment equal to one-fourth part of tlie
annuity is made to the representative, if claimed
within two years.
Persons between 14 and 65 years of age may
insure their lives through the medium of the
Post Office Savings Bank for sums of not less
than £5 and not more than £100, with Govern-
ment security for the payment of the money.
The lives of children below 14 years, but not
under the age of 8 years, may be insured for
£5 but no more.
Insurable Interest. - In order that a contract
of insurance may be valid the insured must have
what is called an insurable interest in the thing
insured ; that is to say, he must have a pecuniary
interest in, or must be liable or accountable for,
any loss arising in regard to it.
Thus a man may not only insure his own life,
but he may also insiure the life of another,
providing he has an insurable interest in that
other's life. A wife has an insurable interest
in her husband's life, being dependent on liim
for support ; so, too, are children dependent upon
thoir father. But a husband has no such interest
in the life of his wife, unless he has an income
or other monetary advantage depending upon
her life. A creditor has an insurable interest
in the life of his debtor for the amount of the
debt, and on the creditor's death ho can recover
the amount of the debt, even although it has
been paid off. Employers have also an in-
surable interest in their workmen or servants,
being liable to them in cases where they have
sustained injury, or been killed in the course
of their employment.
Control Exercised over Life Offices. - Every
Life Assurance Company established since 1870
in the United Kingdom must deposit £20,000
in the High Court, and no certificate of incor-
poration can be issued until the deposit has
been made. As soon as the insurance fund
accumulated out of premiums amounts to
£40,000 the deposit is returned. If the com-
pany carries on other business besides that of
life insurance the receipts in respect of the life
insurance must be kept in a separate account
and be placed in a separate fund called the Life
Insurance Fund of the company. This fund
must exist solely for the security of holders of
life policies, as though the company carried on
no other business than that of life insurance.
Every Life Office doing business in this country
must render annual accounts and reports to the
Board of Trade. Copies of these must be fur-
nished to poUcy.'holders when required. It
must be remembered, however, that the Board
of Trade has no control over the conduct of a
Life Office when once it has been started. There
is, therefore, no guarantee that the business of
any company is being properly carried on.
Stamps. - Policies of life insurance must be
stamped as follows : -
". d.
Where the sura insured does not exceed £10 .
Where the sum insured exceeds £10 but does
not exceed £25
Where the sum insured exceeds £25 but does
not exceed £500, for every £50 or part of £50
Exceeds £500 but does not exceed £1000, for
every £100 or part of £100 ....
Exceeds £1000, for every £1000 or part of
£1000
10 C
On policies of insurance against accident or
sickness the stamp is one penny. Policies of
insurance against employers' liability are charge-
able as agreements - this is, if under hand, 6d.,
if under seal, 10s.
How to Assure or Insure. - A person who
wishes to assure his (or her) life must first apply
to a Life Office, and the Assurance Company will
send a proposal form to be filled up by the person
who has to be assured.
In this proposal form it is required to give
accurate answers to the questions therein set
out, concerning his (or her) health, habits of
Ufe, and family history; sometimes a medii;al
examination will have to be undergone, but
under certain conditions many of the principal
insurance companies have done away with the
necessity for this.
The greatest care should be taken in faith-
fully answering those questions in the " pro-
posal " or " declaration," for this proposal is
the basis of the contract, and it is on the faith
of the answers contained in it that the policy
is granted ; and excepting in the case of a
" non-forfoitable " policy, if the answers are
untrue, however innocently they may be made,
the policy falls to the ground and the insurance
money cannot be recovered, though the premiums
paid may be returned unless the untruthful
answers have been wilfully or fraudulently made.
In addition to the declaration the Life Office
usually requires a reference to one or two in-
timate friends of the person about to be insured.
Their replies are treated as confidential. When
all these requirements have been satisfactorily
met, the Life Office grants the policy on payment
of the first premium.
Accident Insurance. - Accident insurance is a
contract by which the Insurance Company under-
takes tu prov-ide against loss if the insured sus-
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
tains accidental injury or disablement, either
partial or temporary, and to pay the sum in-
sured for to the personal representative of the
person insured shoiild his death result from an
accident.
The rate of premium for accident insurance is
determined chiefly by the occupation. Accord-
ing to the nature of the occupation the risks are
divided into three classes - ordinary, medium,
and hazardous.
To insure for £100 in case of death, with full
benefits for disablement, the rates per annum
in some of the principal offices are : -
s. d.
Ordinary risks ... ... 8 6
Medium risks 12 0
Hazardous rislis 14 0
These rates only apply to accidents happening
in Europe ; but some offices issue " world-
wide " pohcies which also indemnify for accidents
taking place abroad at considerably higher
rates.
Many newspapers and other periodicals con-
tain free accident insurance coupons for sums
varying from £100 and upwards. The condi-
tions printed upon the coupon must be fulfilled
in order for the insurance to be effective. Such
newspaper insurances most often indemnify
against accidents when travelling by rail or boat.
Fire Insurance. - Fire insurance indemnifies
the policy-holder for any loss or damage to his
property sustained by fire.
The maximum amount of compensation
which can be claimed is stated in the policy, but
indemnity is only given for the actual damage
suetained. There is, therefore, no advantage in
over -insuring property or in insuring it for its
full value in each of several different offices.
The latter procedure would only serve to benefit
the insurance companies, for instead of one
company being obliged to pay the full value of
the property, the liability would be shared
between the several offices with which it has
been insured.
The rate of premium varies according to the
property insured. On ordinary dwelling-houses
the rate is usually two shillings per cent, and
seldom less than Is. 6d. per cent. In the case
of factories, shops, &c., that entail more than
ordinary risks, and in the case of theatres, dis-
tilleries, chemical works, and other such places
which are exposed to peculiar danger, rates are
fixed by special arrangement, the premium in
extreme ca^^es being £2 or even £3 per cent.
Fire insurances are usually effected for a
year, the policy being renewable on the pay-
ment of another premium. Fifteen days, called
" days of grace," are allowed at the end of the
year in which to renew the policy. Should a
fire occur during these fifteen days the company
is still liable, provided that it is intended by
both parties to renew the policy.
373
Insurance of Domestic Servants. - Under the
Workmen's Compensation Act, 1906, every em-
ployer is liable to compensate his employees
for injuries arising out of and in the course of
their employment, although such injuries may
be the direct results of carelessness on the part
of the injured person, or even disobedience to
orders.
As this act applies to all domestic servants,
male or female, the master and mistress of every
household should realise the responsibility which
the keeping of servants entails upon them in
this connection, for compensation up to £1
a week is payable dxiring the servant's total
or partial incapacity for work, and this may
well involve the payment of an armuity for
Ufe, whilst if the injxzry results in death, a lump
sum of money of as much as from £150 to £300
is payable (see law of Master and Servant, p. 377-
78). It 13 essential for the master of a house to
protect himself against liabihty, which might
arise in regard to accident to his servants, by in-
surance. jMost of the insurance companies make
a special feature of domestic servant insurance.
The usual premium payable for the insiu-ance
of an indoor servant amounts to from 2s. 6d. to
5s. per annum. Great care should be taken on
examining the insurance policy that it indem-
nifies against all risks. It should in all cases
declare that the insurance comjiany indemnifies
the employe!- against all liabilities under -
Tlie Workmen's Compensation Act, 1906.
The Employer's Liability Act, 1S80.
Fatal Accidents Act, 1846.
And at Common Law.
Tlie following are the rates of premium charge-
able for the insurance of domestic servants by
the EiOyal Exchange Assurance Company : -
BENEFITS OF POLICIES
.Scheme l grants complete indemnity against legal
liability.
Premmms
Indoor domestic servants (male or female) . . .26
Gardeners 50
Grooms, coachmen, and stable hands (not hunting) . 7 6
Chauffeurs and motor-car attendants . . . . 20 0
Scheme 2B (the ideal policy) grants full wages during
first four weeks' incai)acity, and half wages thereafter in
accordance with the Workmen's Compensation Act, and
medical expenses not exceeding £5 for each accident.
Pretniums
g. d.
Indoor domestic servants (male or female) . . .50
Gardeners 70
Grooms, coachmen, and stable hands (not hunting) . 10 0
Cliauffeurs and motor-car attendants . . . . 30 0
The liability to pay compensation to
Casual or Occasional Servants
may be covered by the addition of 25 per cent, of the
premium chargeable for permanent indoor and outdoor
servants under Scheme 1. Minimum extra premium 2s. 6d.
374
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Burglary Insurance. - Burglary insurance is a
recent development in tho business of insurance.
Generally speaking, the law in regard to fire
insurance applies to burglary insurance. The
rate charged in regard to loss by burglary or
housebreaking is usually Is. 6d. in every £100's
worth of goods insured. If the insured wishes
to insiu-o against theft, either by strangers or by
workmen or servants employed in liis house,
the rate is 2s. per cent. Against burglary,
housebreaking, theft, and fire the rate is in
some offices 3s. 6d. per cent. Thus if a house-
holder effected such a combined poUcy on goods
worth £2000, the annual premium would be
3s. 6d. for every flOO's worth of goods insured;
that is, £3, 10s. altogether. Every such policy
must bear a penny stamp.
LEGAL NOTES
Husband and Wife. - Before entering upon the
matrimonial state every woman should have a
clear appreciation of what her legal status as a
married woman will be, and to what extent her
identity becomes merged in that of her husband.
Married Woman's Property. - Formerly theposi-
tion of a married woman left much to be desired.
Whatever personal property she possessed as a
single woman would become her husband's upon
marriage. If she had property in land it passed
under his control, and he was entitled to draw
all the rents and income derived from it. Also
any money lois wife earned in business, in the
professions, or in any kind of employment
became liis. A wife had no power to make
contracts. On the other hand, the husband was
liable for any debts contracted by his wife
before marriage.
The Married Woman's Property Act of 1882
served to place matters upon a much more
equitable basis. Now a married woman can re-
tain and control her own property, drawing all
the income from it. She can keep any money
she may earn in business or in any other em-
ployment. She can now take out an insurance
policy on her own life or that of her husband ;
in fact, she is to all intents and purposes in the
same position as a single woman in regard to tho
power of managing her own property.
Domicile. - The legality of a marriage usually
depends on whether it was celebrated in accord-
ance with the law of the husband's domicile,
so that girls marrying foreigners, even in Eng-
land, should bo careful to ascertain beforehand
from the consul of the country to which the
particular foreigner belongs whether all the
requirements of the foreign law have been ful-
filled ; as otherwise thoy may find that the
husband may repudiate the marriage when he
returns home. Many unfortunate English girls
are trapped and ruined in this way.
Maintenance. - As long as the marriage rela-
tionship is undetermined, a husband is bound
to maintain his wife. A wife is also bound to
maintain her husband if necessary, but only if
slio has separate property wliich will enable her
to do so.
Husband's Liability for Wife's Debts.- (1) Be-
fore Marriage. - Tho JIarried Woman's Property
Acts, 1882, provides that the husband is only
liable for his wife's debts contracted before mar-
riage to the extent of the assets ho received
with her.
(2) After Marriage. - It is a principle of law
that a wife can only pledge her husband's credit
in so far as she is acting as his agent for tho
pm-pose. The liability of the husband for the
debts of his wife in this respect vary according
to whether they are cohabiting or not. If
husband and wife are living together and the
wife is in the habit of ordering goods for which
her husband pays he will be considered as hold-
ing her out as his agent to pledge his credit,
and will be bound to pay debts incurred by her.
If, however, he warns the tradesmen not to
supply her with goods, or if he gives her a
sufficient allowance with which to pay her bills,
he will not be Hable. If husband and wife are
living apart owing to the misconduct of the
former, the wife can pledge the husband's credit
for the supply of necessaries to herself.
Gifts and Loans between Husband and Wife. -
A wife may give to and receive from her hus-
band gifts of every description. Evidence should
always be forthcoming, however, that a gift
has been made more, especially if it does not
leave the possession of the donor. With regard
to loans made by a wife to her husband the
Married Woman's Property Act, 1882, provides
that " any money or other estate of the wife
lent or entrusted by her to her husband for the
purpose of any trade or business carried on by
him or otherwise, shall be treated as assets of
her husband's estate in case of bankruptcy,
under reservation of the wife's claim to p
dividend as a creditor for the amount of value
of such money or other estate after out 7iot
before all claims of the other creditors of the
husband have been satisfied." Thus, if a woman
has lent money to her husband and he has
subsequently been declared bankrupt, she can-
not receive any payment until all the other
creditors have been paid.
Marriage Settlement. - In spite of tho com-
parative freedom now enjoyed by a wife in the
management of her affairs, she is apt to be at
times unduly influenced by her husband, and
many a woman has been known to have lost
the whole of her property in an effort to pay
her husband's creditors ; consequently, in order
that she may continue to enjoy the benefit of
income settled upon her at marriage unre-
strained by any interference on the part of
her husband, it is usual to insert a clause in
the settlement called " restraint upon anticipa-
tion." Not only does this provision protect
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
375
the wife from the influence of her husband, but
it is also a safeguard against extravagance on
her own part, for she is deprived of the power
of selling, mortgaging, or charging her property
in any way.
Legal Position of Married Women in Scotland.
- Formerly the married woman in Scotland
laboured under great legal disabilities. The
whole of her personal property was subject to
the Jus Mariti of the husband ; that is to say,
as head of the wife he was deemed to have sole
right over her property. He could sell or even
make gifts of it at his pleasiu-e, and his creditors
could seize it for payment of his debts. Only by
a special pre-nuptial contract could his rights in
this direction be modified. The husband could
also draw all the rents and income derived from
his wife's landed property. He was also, prior
to the Married Woman's Property Act of 1877,
entitled to any earnings his wife might derive in
business, or by her proficiency in literature, the
arts or any other employment. The Married
Woman's Property Act (Scotland) of 1877 de-
creed that the wife could retain her earnings,
and by a later Act in 1881 her condition was
still further ameliorated. This second Married
Woman's Property Act decreed that all property
coming to a woman after the passing of the Act
was her own, that all incomes, &c., from her
estate might be paid to her, that property she
held in her own right could not be seized by her
husband's creditors in payment of his debts.
But there is this important difference in regard
to the legal status of a married woman in
Scotland as compared with that of a married
woman in England - ^whereas the English-
woman has full power to manage her estates
and make contracts on her own behalf, her
sister in Scotland has no such powers. Her
luisband retains the right of managing her
property, the wife having no power to act in
this direction without his consent. She cannot
enter into any contract or dispose of her property
in any way, except by will, without liis ap-
proval ; she cannot sue at law or be sued ; but,
on the other hand, she cannot be imprisoned for
debt. Only where a special settlement in regard
to the administration of her property has been
made before marriage can the husband's rights
in this direction be restricted.
Women married before 1881 canrot partici-
pate in the benefits of the Act unless the husband
signs a deed to the effect that he is willing the
property should bo hold by his wife in accord-
ance with the new law.
The Importance of Making a Will.- All
persons, men or women, who possess property
of any kind should realise the importance of
making their wills in order to insure that their
property is distributed according to their wishes
after death.
For a will to be valid, according to English
law, it must be in writii g anu signed at the foot
or end by the testator, or, if the latter is too ill
to write, the signature can be made by some
other person under his direction, the testator
affixing liis mark. The will must be signed in
the presence of two or more witnesses, who, in
their turn, must attest and subscribe the docu-
ment in the presence of the testator.
A will need not assimie any particular form.
Any writing duly signed and attested by two
witnesses is sufficient.
A will cannot be made by any person vmder the
age of twenty-one. A married woman may now
make a will in the same form sis that of a man,
but she would have to make a new will in order
to bequeath property acquired by her after the
termination of her married life either by the
death of her husband or her divorce from him.
A will is always revoked by the marriage of
the testator, so that both men and women with
property should make new wills after marriage.
Executors. - It is always adxasable for the
testator to appoint an executor or executors
to wind up her estate and distribute her property
according to her will.
Administrators. - Where the deceased person
has left no will, there can be no executors and
no probate. The property, if " realty," will go
to his heir-at-law, and, if " personalty," to his
next-of-kin. But as it is desirable that some
one should wind up the estate and distribute it
among those entitled to it, the Ck)iu't will appoint
a person called an Administrator, and grant
him " Letters of Administration."
Codicils. - With the exception of the cases
above mentioned, a will can only be revoked by
another will or codicil inconsistent with the
former one. WTiere a codicil is made wliich,
though not consistent with the first will, does
not actually revoke it, the first will is vaUd in
so far as it is consistent with the later will or
codicil, but the later will is alone valid as to
the parts where they are not consistent.
Wills in Scotland. - No set form of wording is
necessary for the drawing up of a will in Scotland.
It should be signed by the testator and attested
by two witnesses.
Should the will, however, be what is termed a
" holograph " will ; that is to say, should it be
written in the testator's own handwriting and
signed with his signature, it will be valid without
the attestation of witnesses. A holograph will
unsigned would not, of coiu'se, be valid.
Intestacy of Husband. - Should a man die in-
testate, leaving a wife and childien, one-third
of his personal estate will go to his wife and the
other two-thirds will be divided between his
children. Should he leave no childien the \nie
takes it all if the value is tinder £500 ; if over
that value she takes £500 with interest at 4 per
cent., and half the residue, the other half going
to the next of kin.
A wife is also entitled on her husband's death
to a dower for life in one-third of liis lands.
376
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Intestacy of Wile. - \\'hen a wife dies intestate
the whole of her personed property reverts to
lier liuaband. He is also entitled to a life estate
called " curt<>sy " in her freehold lands.
Parent and Child. - The parents of a child are
said to be its natural guardians ; that is to say,
they have the right to the control of it until such
time as the child attains the age of twenty-one, or
marries, if the ceremony takes place before that
age is reached. The primary right as guardian
rests with the father, but he may be deprived
of the care of them if, in the opinion of the Court,
it is deemed to be in the interests of the children
that they are taken out of his custody. After
the death of the father the mother is the natural
guardian of their cliildren. Should the father,
however, in his will appoint a testamentary
guardian for Ins cliildren, this delegated guardian-
ship will over-ride the rights of the mother.
Maintenance. - The duty of a father to main-
tain his children until they can support them-
selves is a natural one, and unless the neglect to
do so would bring the case witliin the criminal
law, there is no legal obligation upon him. A
number of statutes, however, deal with the
subject. First of these was the Poor Law Act
of '43 EUzabeth, c. 2, which cast upon parents
" of sufficient abiUty " the duty of maintaining
their cliildren under a penalty, and this was
extended to a later Act to the case of a man's
stop-children. The Act of '57 & '58 Vict., c. 41,
imposes on parents the duty of providing ade-
quate food, clothing, medical aid, and lodging
for children in their custody until the boys at-
tain fourteen years and the girls sixteen. The
liabiUty of the parents under the first statute
ceeises when the children attain the age of six-
teen, unless they are from infirmity incapable
of supporting themselves ; but if the parents
retain the children in their custody they are
Uable for their maintenance until they come
of age.
Births and Deaths, Registration of - Births. - In
the case of ovory child born alive it is the duty of
the father and mother of the child, and, in default
of the father and mother, of the occupier of the
house in which, to his knowledge, the child is
born, and of each person present at the birth,
and of the person having charge of the child,
to give the local registrar of births information
of the birth within forty-two days and to sign
the register. If the birth is not registered
within three months many formalities must be
gone through, and fees are imposed, and after
twelve months a birth can only bo registered
by the Registrar Genfral's express authority.
Registration of Deaths. - When a person dies
in a house it is the duty of the nearest relatives
of the deceased present at the death, or in
attendance during the la.st illness, to notify the
registrar within five days of the death ; and,
in default of such relatives, the obligation lies
upon every other relative dwelUng in the same
district as the deceased. If there are no such
relatives the information must be given by the
occupier and inmates of the house in which the
death took place, and by the person causing
the body of the deceased to be buried.
Where the deceased has been attended during
his (or her) last illness by a registered medical
practitioner, the latter must sign and deliver
to one of the persons required to give informa-
tion concerning death a certificate stating to
the best of liis knowledge and belief the cause
of death. This certificate must be dehvered to
the registrar when information concerning the
death is given.
Vaccination. - Parents are required under a
penalty of twenty shiUings to have their chil-
dren vaccinated before they are six months
old, either by the pubUc vaccinator or by some
medical practitioner. If, however, the parent
makes a statutory declaration within four months
of the child's birth that he conscientiously
behoves the vaccination would bo prejudicial
to the health of the child, he will be exempt from
the penalty, but he must dehver the declaration
to tlie vaccination officer witliin seven days of
obtaining it.
Master and Servant. - There are many points
in the law of master and servant as applied
to the domestic servants of a household which
the average woman finds somewhat difficult to
understand. The most important things to re-
member in this connection will be dealt with
here briefly and expUcitly in a way which it is
hoped will tend to enlighten the housewife as to
the exact scope of her responsibilities towards
her servants.
Wife as Husband's Agent. - As all dealings with
servants are mainly conducted by the wife as
superintendent of the domestic side of the
home, the mistress is more often than not re-
garded as having supreme control over them.
She it is who engages them, allots their various
duties, provides for their outings and holidays,
and dismisses them when their work is un-
satisfactory. This is a typical instance of the
wife acting as her husband's agent, for whore
husband and wife live together it is the husband
who is the legal head of the servants of a house-
hold. It is the husband who is liable for the
payment of their wages, and the Courts would
compel him and not the wife to pay them. He
it is who is responsible for the contract of
engagement, and upon him rests the onus of
responsibility for injuries caused to other people
by his servants' wrongful or negligent acts, and
it is he who is liable to compensate his ser-
vant for any injuries they may have received in
the course of their employment. The word
" master " is therefore in no way the meaning-
less term it is supposed to be in the average
home when applied to the control of servants,
and although the mistress, as housewife, retains
the active management of these members of the
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
377
household, yet she can only be said to be acting
upon her husband's behalf, for he is in every
way responsible to and for them.
Notice. - Upon the engagement of a servant,
what is laiown as a " contract of service " is
entered upon between master and servant ; that
is to say, the master engages the servant to
fulfil certain duties wliich the latter undertakes
to perform for remuneration to be agreed upon
between them.
C\istom ordains that the contract of service
may be terminated by either servant or master
giving a calendar month's notice. In Scotland
forty days' notice must be given. If the master
chooses to discharge the servant without notice,
he must, unless the dismissal is justifiable, pay
to the servant a calendar month's wages in
addition to the wages up to the day of dismissal.
The wages payable in such a case would be the
actual money wages, and no allowance need be
made for board and lodging. Shovild a servant
depart without giving the master notice, any
wages earned by him (or her) since they were
last paid axe forfeited. The master may take
an action against him (or her) for breach of
contract.
Dismissal without Notice. - In several cases a
servant may be dismissed without either notice
or wages in lieu of notice. They are : -
(1) Wilful disobedience of a specific order.
The disobedience must be wilful and the order
specific. A mere casual neglect to obey a
general order would not as a rule justify instant
dismissal.
(2) Incompetepce. - A servant must be able
to perform the duties lor which he or she was
engaged, and which he or she undertook to
perform upon engagement.
(3) Habitual Neglect of Duty. - Consistent
neglect of duty may at times result in such
serious consequences as to justify instant dis-
missal.
(4) Gross misconduct, insolence, or dishonesty.
(5) Illness. - If the illness is one that is likely
to be of a very long period. A mere temporary
iUness constitutes no reason for the dismissal
of a servant.
Temporary Illness of Servant. - A master is
bound to pay the wages of his servants during
temporary illness. He is not liable for medical
aid unless he sends for the doctor or authorises
him to be sent for. In this case he must pay
the bill and is not entitled to deduct it from
the servant's wages.
Ejecting: a Servant. - If a servant refuses to go
upon being dismissed, it is always better to call
in a policeman to see that he (or she) leaves the
premises. A master is allowed to forcibly eject
a servant, but he must be careful in doing this,
as there is no knowing how far the law may be
exceeded, and a charge of assault consequently
preferred by the servant. It is always as
well therefore tc have " policeman upon the
scene to be witness that everything is in proper
order.
When a servant is suspected of theft, it is as
well also to call in a policeman to search his (or
her) boxes. A master should never undertake
this himself, as, if the theft could not be proved,
he would be Uable for damages.
Breakages. - A servant is not Uable for
breakages ; hence, unless an agreement has been
arrived at upon engagement that he or she is to
be held liable under the terms of the contract,
it is illegal for a master to deduct the value of
the breakages from the servant's wages.
Master's Liability for Servant's Negligence. -
Masters are responsible for the injuries caused
to other persons and their property by the
wrongful or negligent acts of servants, if such
servants are acting within the scope of their
ordinary duties and within the general scope of
their master's authority. Thus if a chaixffeur,
wliile driving his master's motor car in the
ordinary course of his employment, were by his
negligence to collide with another vehicle, the
master would be responsible for the damage
sustained by that other vehicle. If, on the other
hand, the accident occurred when the chauffeur
had taken out the motor car not in the coui'se
of his employment, but for his own pleasvu-e,
the master would not be liable.
Servants' Characters. - A mistress (acting as
agent for the master) is not legally bound to give
a character to a servant ; but if she gives one
it must be true. Care must be taken that all
the statements made are jiistified ; the mistress
should state all that she knows of good about the
servant as well as of bad. The statements made
in giving a character are said to be " pri\aleged,"
and if an action for Ubel is taken by the servant
the mistress is protected on this same score of
privilege', even where the words complained of
are vmtrue, provided that they were written
without malice and in the belief that they were
true. If, however, malice can be proved, the
plea of privilege will be of no avail, and the
servant will be entitled to damages.
It is very wrong of a mistress to give a good
character to a servant whom she knows to be
dishonest. Any emploj-er engaging a dishonest
servant by reason of such untrue character is
entitled to damages from the person by whom
the servant was recommended.
Master's Liability for Servant's Injuries. - A
master is liable for any injuries sustained by his
servants arising out of and in the com*se of their
employment, even althougli such injuries may
be the direct results of carelessness on the part
of the injured person, or even disobedience to
orders, though in the latter case the servant is
not entitled to compensation unless death or
permanent disablement should result from the
accident.
The term domestic servants includes generally
all those who are engaged in the menial work
378
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
of a household either indoors or out-of-doors,
though no compensation could be claimed by a
relation of the master of the house engaged in
doing menial work. The amount of compensa-
tion payable as fixed by the Workmen's Com-
pensation Act, 1900, is as foUow-s : -
In the Case of Death. - Where death results
from the injury, if the servant loaves any persons
wholly dependent upon his earnings, the persons
so dependent are entitled to receive a sum
equal to the servant's earnings in his (or her)
employment during the last three years. If the
servant has not been so long in the employment,
they are entitled to a sum equal to one hundred
and fifty-six times his (or her) average weekly
earnings. In no case must this sum be less
than £150, nor must it exceed £300 ; so it will be
seen that should a servant meet death by acci-
dent, leaving relatives dependent upon liim,
£150 represents the minimum amount of the
master's Uability. If the servant leaves no
dependents his master will be Uable for tho
expeiises of medical attendance and burial to
the extent of £10.
Disablement by Accident. - Where total or
partial incapacity for work results from an
accidental injury sustained by the servant out
of and in the course of his (or her) employment,
he (or she) is entitled to receive a weekly pay-
ment during the incapacity not exceeding half
of his (or her) average weekly earnings during
the last twelve months if ho (or she) has been
so long employed, but if not, then for any
less period during which he (or she) has been
in the employment of the same employer,
but in no case must the weekly payment
exceed £1. Earnings in the case of an indoor
resident ser\'ant would include not only
wages but also an allowance for board and
lodging.
In the c"ise of accident to a servant who is
under twenty-one years of age, and whose average
weekly earnings are less than 20s., a weekly
payment equal to the whole of tho amount of
his weekly earnings will be payable, but tlus
weekly payment must not exceed 10s.
So it will be seen that in the event of disable-
ment the msistor will be liable for weekly pay-
ments up to £1, and in the event of the injury
being a permanent one tho compensation would
require to be paid during the whole of the
aervanVa life.
The position of the master of tho house,
therefore, is one of somewhat heavy responsi-
bility in this connection, but he can relieve him-
self of this to some measure by insurance. For
a nominal sum per annum the chief insurance
companies will take all risks. It is well worth
an annual outlay of from 58. to la. 6d. each year
to bo protected in this way, and it should bo tho
first act of a master, after engaging a servant,
to effect an insurance policy in his or her name.
Care should be taken, however, that tho policy
covers all risks (see Insurance of Domestic
Servants, p. 373).
Casual Labour. - Casual labour in the strict
sense of tho term does not come within tho
meaning of the act. Thus if, as often happens, a
man is employed on one or even two odd occa-
sions to perform some such menial duty as
chopping wood, he could not claim compensa-
tion were he injured while so employed. On
the other hand, the boy who is engaged to come
daily to clean knives and boots, the charwoman
who comes regularly once or t\v4ce a week, may
be said to come within the scope of the Act,
although their work may be said to be of a
casual nature. The insurance companies also
insure against risks entailed by labour of this
kind.
The Law of Landlord and Tenant. - Before
taking a house or any other property it is always
advisable to have some idea of the chief points
in the law of Landlord and Tenant, otherwise
the intending tenant might often find himself
faced with serious responsibilities wliich he had
not the remotest idea of incurring. Few women
have even a superficial knowledge of the legal
points involved in the letting and taking of
houses, the various kinds of leases and tenancies,
the tenant's obligations to liis landlord, and
vice vers A. Yet a little knowledge in this
direction has often been the means of a con-
siderable saving of both worry and expense.
Some of the most important rules covering the
relation of landlord and tenant will here be
dealt ^vith.
Landlord and Tenant. - A landlord is tho person
from whom lands or tenements aro taken, and
a tenant is one who holds property from the
landlord for a certain Umited period subject
to tho payment of rent.
Varieties of Tenancies. - ^There are various
kinds of tenancy: (1) A tenancy at will is a
tenancy wliich either the landlord or tho tenant
may terminate at any moment without notice.
(2) A tenancy at sufferance arises wh.:re a
tenant continues in possession after the expira-
tion of his tenancy. He cannot bo regarded as
a trespasser, but he is liable to be turned out
by the landlord at any moment. If he retains
possession after receiving from the landlord a
proper notice in writing to quit, he is liable to
be sued for double the yearly value of the
property for the time he remains in possession ;
if he holds over after himself giving notice of
his intention to quit, he may be sued for
double rent.
(3) A Tenancy from Year to Year. - ^The law
does not look with favour on tenancies at will,
therefore when a tenant at will has paid rent
or done anything else which may bo fairly taken
to show an intention to create a yearly tenancy,
the tenancy becomes automatically a tenancy
from year to year. Tenants ought, therefore,
before entering into their tenancies, if thej'
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
379
wish the tenancy to be for less than a year, to
make the agreement quite clear with the land-
lord ; for though no term is specified tenancy
will in the first instance be a tenancy at will ;
the mere payment of rent will convert it into
a yearly tenancy, but this does not apply to
weekly tenants.
Leases. - The contract by which property is
let for a term of years is called a lease.
The leases in connection with the letting of
dweUing -houses are usually either for three,
seven, fourteen, or twenty-one years. People
often prefer to have an agreement instead of a
more formal lease in the case of tenancies of
less than tliree years ; but except for very short
terms, it is generally better to have a lease
stating clearly all the conditions tmder which
the tenancy is held. A lease for a term of three
years or less where the rent received amounts to
two-thirds of the full improved value, can be
made verbally if accompanied by the giving
and taking of the premises, but such a plan
is seldom adopted and by no means to be
recommended.
In Scotland, where a lease is for more than
one year, it must be in writing, specifying a
definite term, and a definite sum as rental. A
verbal lease can be made, however, for a year
or less. Letters between landlord and tenant
agreeing to a lease are also valid in certain
circumstances. All leases must be duly stamped.
Covenants. - All leases contain a number of
covenants or conditions which the landlord and
tenant respectively bind themselves to observe.
The very employment in a lease of certain
technical expressions implies the creation of
certain covenants. Thus the use of the word
" demise " implies a covenant on the part of
the landlord that the tenant shall be entitled
to the quiet and undisturbed enjoyment of the
premises, unless there is any express covenant
in the lease with a contrary effect.
There are in most leases what are called
" usual covenants," being covenants on which
the landlord can insist when there is nothing to
the contrary in the agi-eement for the lease.
Tliey are four in number : -
(1) Tenant to pay rent.
(2) Tenant to pay rates and tases, except the
landlord's property tax and tithe rent charge.
(3) Tenant to allow the landlord to enter the
premises from time to time to see that they are
in a proper state of repair.
(4) Tenant to keep the premises in a proper
state of repair throughout the tenancy, and to
deliver them up in such a state at the end of
the term.
In addition to the usual covenants there are
a large number of special covenants to be found
in all leases, for the respective landlords and
tenants can always agree to whatever additional
covenants ihey please. These additional cove-
nants fall into two general classes : - (I) Personal
covenants ; (2) Covenants rurming with the land.
The latter kind are binding on all those to whom
the tenant assigns the property, whereas the
former are in general only operative between the
respective parties to the lease.
Rent. - The principal duty of every tenant is
to pay rent, whether there is a covenant to pay
it or not, for if there is no agreement between
the parties stipulating as to the exact sum
payable, the tenant is bound to pay a reason-
able Sinn for the use and occupation of the
premises, unless, of course, there is an agreement
that the tenant shall have the premises rent
free, as might well happen if he is in the employ-
ment of the landlord, and has the right to occupy
the premises as part of his remuneration.
The amount of rent payable in any particular
case is usually arranged for in the lease or
agreement which may also appoint times for
the payment of the rent. But in the cases where
there is no stipulation as to when payment is
to be made, the law says that it is due on the
last day of the year of the tenancy if the tenancy
be for a year or more, and on the last day of
the tenancy if it be for less than a year. As a
matter of general practice the rents of houses
are paid quarterly on the proper quarter days,
and sometimes monthly.
Though the rent becomes due on the morning
of the day on which it ought to be paid, it cannot
be legally considered in arrear until midnight
on that day.
Rates and Taxes. - Taxes paid by Landlord. -
All rates and taxes are as a rule paid by the
landlord in the case of furnished houses or flats.
In the case of unfurnished houses the Land-
lord's Property Tax is in the first instance usually
paid by the tenant ; but he is entitled to deduct
the amount so paid from the rent, so that it
eventually falls on the landlord ; similarly the
tithe rent charge must in all cases eventually be
paid by the landlord. Tliere are also certain
other rates and taxes which the landlord will
have to pay, unless there is a special agreement
by which the tenant binds himself to paj' them.
They include the sewers rate for permanent
improvement to the sewers, the land tax, and
the poor rates on property let for less than
three months. Wlienever the tenant is called
upon to pay any of these rates he must do so,
but unless he has agreed to pay them he may
deduct the amount so paid from the rent. The
landlord must pay rates and taxes when the
rateable value of the premises does not exceed
£10, or where they are let to weeklj* or monthly
tenants.
Taxes to be Paid by Tenant. - There are, how-
ever, certain taxes which, in the absence of any
agreement to the contrary between the landlord
and tenant, must be borne by the tenant. They
include the water rate, the county, borough,
highway and general district rates, poor rates
on property let for more than tlu-ee months
380
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
(unless the tenant is merely a lodger), and the
ordinary assessed taxes.
The owners of unoccupied houses are not
liable for payment of tlio poor rate, but if the
tenant comes into possession after the levying
of the rate he may be called upon to pay a pro-
portionate part of it, according to the length
of the period of his occupation.
Repairs. - As a general rule, the landlord cannot
bo called upon to execute repairs unless he has
agreed to execute them. As for the tenant,
where there is no express agreement as to repairs,
he is bound to use the premises in a tenant-like
manner. Tlius he must not do damage to the
premises, and he can ganerally be compelled to
do such repairs as are necessary to keep the
premises wind and water-tight ; but unless he
has agreed to do so, a yearly tenant cannot be
called upon to execute any substantial repairs,
though a tenant under a lease would in such a
case be compelled to executo substantial repairs.
In many cases it happens that the respective
landlords and tenants agree together that each
will be responsible for a certain portion of the
repairs. Thus it is by no means uncommon
for the landlord to agree to execute all repairs
to the outside of the premises, whilst the tenant
agrees to repair the inside. But the amount of
repairs to be done and the person to pay for them
is generally a matter of arrangement between
the parties at the time of the execution of the
lesise or agreement.
The landlord is bound in letting furnished
premises to see that they are in a fit state for
habitation (see p. 381), but in the case of un-
furnished premises he can only be made liable
under the Housing of Working Classes Act,
1885, in respect of premises let at a low rental
to persons of the working class and under the
Housing Town Planning Act, 1909, in regard to
dwellings let for three years at rent not ex-
ceeding £-10 in London, £26 in certain districts
with a population of 250,000 or upwards, and
£16 elsewhere. As regards all other kinds of
unfurnished premises, the landlord, apart
from any agreement to the contrary with his
tenant, is under no obligation to put the
premises in a state of repair, or even into an
inhabitable condition before tlie tenancy f:om-
mences ; and further, he cannot, apart from
the agreement, be called upon to rebuild the
premises if they are destroyed by fire during the
tenancy, though the tenant can be compelled to
pay the rent during the period in which the
premises remain uninhabitable. It is advisable,
therefore, for tenants about to take unfurnished
premises to see that the landlord agrees to put
them into a thorough state of repair before the
commencement of the tenancy, and to insist
upon a covenant being inserted in the lease or
agreement to the effect that the payment of
rent shall cease if the premises are rendered un-
inhabitable by fire.
In Scotland the laxidlord is boimd in letting
a house to put it in a habitable condition. If
he does not do this the tenant may tlirow up
liis lease. In addition the landlord is bound to
keep the premises wind and water-tight and the
drainage system in order during the tenancy.
The tenant in his turn must take good care of
the premises, returning them to the landlord in
the condition in wliich he founi.! them.
Fixtures. - There are two Idnds of fixtures -
landlord's fixtures and tenant's fixtures. The
tenant's fixtures are those in which a tenant is
entitled to remove and take away with him on
giving up the tenancy, unless, of course, tliey
did not originally belong to him ; whereas the
fixtures he must leave behind, whether he has
l)ut them up himself or not, are called landlord's
fixtures.
Garden Fixtures. - An ordinary tenant of a
house, no matter how he may have improved
the garden by the planting of plants, rose-trees,
slirubs, and other horticultural embellishments,
cannot reviove these without the consent of the
landlord upon the expiry of his tenancy, for by
law they have become the landlord's property
in consequence of the legal maxim " whatever
has been firmly affixed to the grovmd has become
part of the ground." This law, however, does
not apply to market gardeners or nui-serymen,
if they have complied with the terms of the
Agricultural Holdings Act and the Market
Gardeners' Compensation Act. They may re-
move what they have planted.
Domestic Fixtures. - In regard to fixtures
which tenants have affixed to property for
their own convenience, the practical effect of
the present nole is that the landlord may claim
all buildings and other permanent improvements
to his property ; the tenant may remove orna-
mental and pm"ely domestic fixtures belonging
to liim, such as tapestries and gas-brackets, &c.,
but he is only entitled to them if they can be
easily removed, without material injury to the
property. Practically the same rule in regard to
the removal of fixtures prevails in Scotland.
Distress. - If a tenant falls in arrear with his
rent the landlord may enter upon the premises
and seize and sell a sufficient quantity of the
tenant's goods to satisfy the debt. There are,
however, certain things which he is not entitled
to distrain, such as things in actual use at the
time, the wearing apparel, bedding and trade
implements of the tenant if under £5 in value,
and the goods of a lodger where the latter has
complied with the terms of the Lodger Goods
Protection Act.
No distress may legally be levied between
sunset and sunrise, or on any Sunday, Christmas
Day, Good Friday, or any day appointed for a
public thanksgiving.
Removal of Goods by Tenant. - If, after the rent
has become due, a tenant fraudulently or clan-
destinely removes any of his goods from the
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
381
premises the latter may follow and seize them
witliin a period of thirty days after, unless they
have been bond fide sold for value to a person
without knowledge of the fraud.
Lodger's Property. - The goods of a lodger are
protected from distress levied on Ms imme-
diate landlord if he observes the conditions of
the Distress Amendment Act, 1908. By this
Act, if the superior landlord of the lodger's im-
mediate landlord endeavours to distrain on the
lodger's property for the rent due from the
immediate landlord, the lodger must : -
(1) Serve on the superior landlord or his
bailiff a written declaration that the property is
his, and also stating what rent, if any, is due
from him to the superior landlord, and under-
taking to pay to the superior landlord any rent
so due or to become due until the arrears of rent
due to the superior landlord have been paid off.
(2) AixPex to tliis declaration a correct in-
ventory of the property.
In Scotland the landlord has what is termed
" hypothec " or real right in security for rent
over the furniture of his tenant. He may make
the hypothec effectual by sequestration of the
goods within three months of the date upon
wliich the rent fell due. Sequestration may be
followed by the sale of the goods carried out by
an officer appointed bj^ the sheriff. Goods are
only subject to hypothec for each successive
year's rent, and not for arrears. Where goods
so subject are removed bj' the tenant, the land-
lord may obtain a warrant from the sheriff to
bring them back. He is also entitled to prevent
the tenant frona ^em'^^ang his goods not only
when the rent falls due, but also during any
period of the tenancy, unless a tenant can give
good security that the rent will be paid. Coin
of the realm, bonds, bills and wearing apparel
are not subject to the hypothec of the landlord.
Furnished Houses and Lodgings. - Wliere a
tenant takes a furnished house or lodging there
is an imphed warranty in law on the part of the
landlord that the premises are reasonably fit
for human occupation. So if by reason of bad
drains or any other cause the house is rendered
unfit for habitation, the tenant is entitled to
terminate the tenancy. If, however, the land-
lord has agreed to keep the premises in a state
of repair, he is entitled to notice of want of
repair and an opportunity to put it right, before
the tenant is justified in leaving. This implied
warranty as to fitness for human occupation
only exists where the property is let furnished.
If the piopertj' is lot unfurnished, the tenant is
not entitled to terminate the tenancy on finding
the drains in a bad state, or the house unfit for
occupation.
Flats. - The landlord is bovmd to keep the
stairs in good condition.
Liability of the Landlord or the Tenant to
Third Parties. - The tenant is Uable for injiu-ies
to third parties caused by the dangerous condi-
tion of the premises. There is a statutory duty
imposed on the owner or occupier to fence in
or cover over all dangerous places or holes
abutting on the highway, e.g., to keep in good
repair the area railings and coal-cellar covers
on the pavement. When, therefore, a passer-
by is injured by reason of these things being in
dangerous condition, he has usually a right of
action against the tenant and not against the
landlord. The same is the case when the con-
dition of the premises themselves is the cause
of injury to other people or to their property.
The landlord and not the tenant will, however,
be Hable (1) where he (the landlord) has agreed
to keep the premises in repair, or (2) where he
has let the premises in a dilapidated condition.
Of course, if the injured party is a trespasser he
has no remedy whatever.
Sub-letting a House. - The lessee of a house
may sublet it unless he has bound himself by
the terms of the lease not to do so. It is
extremely common to find in leases a covenant
to the effect that the tenant will not underlet or
assign the house without the written consent of
the landlord. The main difference between an
underlease and an assignment is that the latter
is for the whole of the remainder of the term
of the original tenant's lease, whereas the former
would only be for part of the term.
\\Tiere tenants agree not to underlet or assign
without the consent of the landlord, it is advis-
able that they should insist on the following
adchtional words being added to the covenant : -
" But such consent is not to be unreasonably
withhold in the case of a respectable and re-
sponsible person." If then the consent is un-
reasonably refused the tenant may assign
without incurring the forfeiture of the lease.
Termination of a Tenancy. - ^Vhere a house has
been taken for a stated period the tenant does
not require to give notice to the landlord of his
intention to quit. But where the tenancy is a
yearly tenancy, or a monthly or quarterly one,
notice is required, for a yearly tenancy does not
mean a tenancy for a yeew, but a continuing
tenancy from year to year.
Notice of Removal. - Where the parties have
not come to any special agreement, the amount
of notice proper for a yeai'ly tenancy is half a
year, and for a quarterly, monthly, or weekly
tenancy it is a quarter, or a month, or a week
respectively.
When to give Notice of Removal. - Tlie law
provides that a yearly, quarterly, monthly, or
weekly tenancy can only bo properly dotorminod
at the end of the year, quarter, month, or week
of the tenancy ; so that the tenant must give
his notice the reqiiisite amount of months or
weeks before the end of the period of the
tenancy. Thus he cannot terminate a yearly
tenancy at any time by giving six montlis' notice.
A yearly tenancy commencing ou the 1st of
January can only be terminated on the 31st of
382
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
December, so that the half year's notice should
be given by the 1st of July. The tenant may
not, by giving the notice at the end of August,
terminate it at the end of the following Februarj'.
The half year's notice required to terminate a
yearly tenancy does not necessarily mean six
calendar montlis. The notice should be for at
least half a year - that is 183 daj's.
Other Ways of Terminating a Tenancy. - By
Surrender. - When both parties agree to put an
end to the tenancy before the completion of the
term, the tenant must make a surrender to the
landlord, which in all cases must be in writing
and generally by deed.
By Forfeiture. - Most leases give the landlord
the right to re-enter the premises and terminate
the lease on the breach by the tenant of any
one of the important covenants of the lease.
Where such a right of entry is reserved to the
landlord, he will be presumed by law to have
waived it if he accepts the payment of the rent
after he has gained knowledge of the breach of
the covenant.
Responsibility for Fire. - If the tenant of a
house has covenanted to repair, he must in every
case remedy or rebuild in the case of damage
to or loss of the premises by fire, unless he has
been careful to make a special condition that
liability for damage by fire shall not form part
of the covenant. It is always as well for the
householder to protect himself from loss or
damage by fire by a clause of the kind, or by
insuring liis property with a good insurance
company, or by seeing that a covenant for
insurance by the landlord is included in the
lease. (For conditions of Fire Insurance,
see p. 373.)
Chimney on Fire. - Should a chimney catch
fire in London the occupier of the hovise is liable
to a penalty of 203., even though the fire be
caused by some one else's carelessness, though he
can in the latter case recover from this person
the penalty he has paid if he can prove the
neglect. In towns outside London the penalty
is only lOs., but it is not recoverable if the
occupier can show the fire did not in any way
arise from carelessness, neglect, or omission on
his part or that of his sorvant.
Sanitary Regulations. - It is an offence to
build a house without proper drainage in any
urban district. Wliere any house is without a
drain sufficient for its effectual drainage the
local authorities must, by written notice, require
the owner or occupier of the house, within a
reasonable time, to make a covered drain
emptying into the local authority's sewers
or cess-pools under the direction of the
authority.
Every houije must be provided with one or
more water-closets as required, furnished with
a suitable water-supply, and all the necessary
arrangements to ensure its efficient working.
Where, however, there is not a sufficient sewerage
or wator-supptj' a " privy " or earth closet may
be substituted.
Every house must also have a sufficient
ash-pit, dust-bin, or other receptacle for ashes
and refuse. Failure to comply with those regu-
lations renders the occupier liable to a fine of
£5, and a further fine of 40s. for each day the
offence continvies, or the sanitary authority
may do the work themselves and recover from
the owner or occupier. Closets, privies, and
ash-pits must not be allowed to got into a con-
dition which is offensive or injurious to health.
The occupier of the house is in these circum-
stances liable to a fine of £5, or a further fine
of 40s. for every day they remain in this
condition.
Infectious Diseases. - Disinfection of Premises.
- Every Local Government Board may make
regulations enforcing the cleansing and disin-
fection of premises, bedding, &c., in the case of
a house which has been visited by an infectious
disease. It is an offence under the Infectious
Disease (Prevention) Act, 1890, to knowingly
cast infected refuse into any ash-bin or receptacle
for refuse. Outgoing tenants are fined for leav-
ing premises infected, unless they give notice
of infection to the landlord.
Tlie letting of a house where infectious disease
has prevailed within a period of six months prior
to the letting also involves a heavy penalty.
Removal of Refuse. - Local authorities have
power to undertake or contract for the removal
of house refuse from private premises ; and
where they have exercised this power it is an
offence for any one else to remove or obstruct
authorised persons from removing such refuse.
But there is a provision exempting occupiers ol
houses from liability in respect of such refuse as
is produced on their own premises and intended
to be removed for sale or for the occupier's
own use if it is meantime kept so as not to be
a nuisance. If the local authority, after having
undertaken or contracted for the removal of the
refuse, unreasonably neglects to have it removed
wnthin seven days of being requested in WTiting
to do so by the occupier of the premises, it
renders itself liable to penalties.
House Duty. - This is known by the names of
House Tax, House Duty, and Inhabited House
Duty. All inhabited dwellings of £20 and
upwards are chargeable. Liability to pay this
tax falls upon the occupier and not the owner of
a house. The rate of duty varies with the
annual value of the house, and for ordinary
dwelling-houses is as follows : -
On hoTises where the annual value of the
premises does not exceed £40 . . .3d. in the £.
Where it exceeds £40 but not £C0 . . . Cd. in the £.
Exceeding £00 9d. in the £.
A lower scale is charged under certain con-
ditions to lodging-house keepers and those
engaged in trade.
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
383
Time for Payment. - In England the year
calculated in the assessment of this tax is from
April 5 to the following April 5, and in Scotland
from May 24 to the following May 23 ; in all
cases the tax is required to be paid on January 1
of that year.
Land Tax. - Tlie tenant pays this in the first
instance, but she is entitled to deduct it from
the amount paid for rent, unless she has by the
terms of the lease or agreement agreed to bear
the charge herself. Persons whose incomes do
not exceed £160 a year are exempt from the
paynaent of land tax, wliilst those whose incomes
do not exceed £400 are exempt to the extent
of one-half.
House and Estate Agents' Commission. - House
agents are as a rule employed to negotiate the
sale or lease of a house or property. Thus where
a lease or a purchase has been effected through
their agency they are entitled to a commission
upon the proceeds of the same payable by the
seller or lessor of the property.
This commission only becomes payable when
the sale or lease has been effected in consequence
of the agents' introduction.
The following are the usual fees and charges
in London of House and Estate Agents and
Auctioneers for letting house property, factories,
shop property, &c. : -
When let on agreement for not more than
tliree years, 5 per cent, on the first year's rent ;
when for a longer term, 7^ per cent., and, in
addition, 5 per cent, up to £1000 and 2i per
cent, on the residue upon any premium or
consideration. Also R per cent, on the pur-
chase price of any plant, fixtures, fittings, &c.,
which may be purchased by the tenant. Where
the rent is weekly, one week's rent is charged.
Income Tax. - The Income Tax is payable by
all persons whose annual income exceeds £160.
At present the amount levied is Is. 2d. in the
£ upon unearned incomes and on earned incomes
of over £3000, and Is. in the £ on earned incomes
of between £2000 and £3000. On all earned
incomes up to £2000 the tax is 9d. in the £.
All whose incomes do not exceed £160 are en-
tirely exempted from payment, wliilst a rebate
is allowed of the amount of the tax on £160
when the income is less than £400 ; £150 when
less than £500 ; £120 when less than £600, and
£70 when less than £700. A special allowance
equal to the amount of the Income Tax upon £10
is allowed to Income Tax payers whose income
does not exceed £500 in respect of every child
under t>io age of sixteen. In addition to the
ordinary Income Tax a Super Tax of 6d. in the
£ is payable by persons whose total income ex-
ceeds £5000, for every £1 of income above £3000.
Rates. - ^Rates differ from taxes inasmuch as
they are contributions levied by some local
authority either for local government purposes
or for the purpose of providing for the poor.
Whilst taxes are levied by the Government and
are of general application, the term '• rate "
also applies to a charge made by a public com-
pany (i.e. a water company) for services rendered.
Under this designation can be classed the water
rate and the gas rates.
Wlio Pays tlie Rates. - The occupier of a house
and not the owner is generally the person who
is primarily liable for the payment of the rates,
though there are some rates which the owner
must pay. In the case of a landlord and tenant
the parties frequently agree between themselves
that the liability shall ultimately fall upon
the landlord.
Each locality has its own rates governed by
its own needs. Rates are assessed on the net
annual value of the property. The rateable
value of a property is arrived at by deducting
from the gross value the tithes, cost of ins\ir-
ance, repairs and other expenses incidental
to property which detract from its gross
value.
Gas and Water Rates. - Tlie gas and water
rates are usually a charge made by a public
company for services rendered. Gas is usually
paid for according to the quantity consumed as
measured by the meter. The private Acts of
most gas companies have provisions dealing with
the testing of gas meters and the recovery of
overcharges if the meters do not register cor-
rectly, but many of the Acts provide that allow-
ances for the incorrectness of meters can only
be made on the current quarter account. Water
rates, however, are generally assessed, and are
payable on the rateable value of the premises,
though it is not unusual for an extra charge
to be made when garden hoses are employed,
or where there is otherwise reason to believe
that an abnormal supply of water will be
used.
The Hire Purchase System. - To people of
limited means who cannot afford the disburse-
ment of a substantial lump sum, the facilities
for furnishing their homes on the hire purchase
system present many decided advantages.
Briefly a hire purchase agreement for the
purchase of furniture or other goods amounts
to tliis - the goods become the property of the
person who hires them when he has completed
the purchase by a specific number of payments
made periodically. Until all the payments have
been made the goods belong to the person who
lets them out. Should default be made in pay-
ment, the owner may retake possession of his
goods and all pre\aous instalments paid by the
hirer will be forfeited.
It is always 6is well, before entering into a
hire purchase agreement, to see that it is being
effected with a reputable firm. Many of the
chief hire purchase traders belong to a society
whose object is to see that the system is honour-
ably kept up, and that the mere fortuitous
failure to pay an instalment is not made the
means of depriving the hirer of the benefit of
384
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
his contract altogother. Firms belonging to
this society will usually subject this rule to
considerable modification in favour of a hirer
who has a comparatively respectable character
and position, and if there is reason to beUeve
that liis default is in the nature of a temporary
suspension of payment only. As a rule it pays
the hire furnisher better to conclude the sale
with the hirer even for an extended credit than
to take back goods in a second-hand condition
and find a pui-chasor for them, more especially
as a reputation for harshness would be fatal
to his success in business in any restricted
locality.
Stamps. - A hire purchase agreement requires
R. sixpenny stamp if its subject matter is of the
value of £5. If below that value no stamp is
necessary.
Excise Licences. - The chief excise licences
which concern the householder according to the
position he occupies and the extent of his
establishment are : -
The licence on male servants.
The licence on armorial bearings.
The licence on carriages and motors.
The licence on dogs.
Male Servant. - Every person who emploj^
a male servant must obtain a licence, pajang
for such hcence 15s. for each servant employed.
The licence is annual and expires on the 31st
day of December each year. The term " ser-
vant " in this connection apphes only to what
may be described as a personal servant, not to
a workman or labourer employed in any handi-
craft or trade. But if a farm labourer is em-
ployed daily to drive a pony cai'riage, then a
licence is necessary. It is also necessary in the
case of a tradesman who employs a man to
attend to a vehicle solely used for the purpose
of pleasure. A gardener employed at a weekly
wage and who works for his employer a number
of hours per day cannot be employed without a
licence even if he is at liberty to work for other
people. Trade servants, including those en-
gaged in hotels and refreshment houses, game
watchers and persons not residing in employer's
house engaged for a portion only of each day,
are not servants in that sense and do not require
to bo licensed.
Penalties for Employing Male Servants without
a Licence. - It is tho duty of any person employ-
ing male servants to render a declaration to this
effect to tho Inland Revenue authorities in tho
month of January each year. The penalty for
nerjlecting to deliver or refusing to deliver such
declaration is £20, or for employing a male
servant without a proper licence, or employing
more male servants than authorised by the
licence, is also £20.
Armorial Bearings. - The general regulations
and penalties affecting the use of armorial
bearings are the same as those which apply
in the case of " male servants." The licence
must bo taken out annually, and the duty
payable is £1, Is., but if used on the carriage
the amount is increased to £2, 2s. Any person
wearing or using armorial bearings, even as
an ornament, is bound to take out a licence.
The wearing of a signet ring with a lion
rampant engraved thereon renders the wearer
liable to duty, so is the user of notepaper
Avith a similar device printed on his note-
paper.
Certain persons are exempted from making
declarations, or taking out licences, either for
the employment of malo servants or the use
of armorial bearings. These are : (1) Members
of tho Royal Family ; (2) sheriffs and mayors
of corporations serving an annual office therein
in respect of any servants or carriages kept
for the purposes of office during the year of
service ; (3) persons wearing by right of office
any arms or insignia of members of tho Royal
Family, or of any corporation or royal burgh in
respect of the use of any such arms or insignia ;
(4) any person ordinarily resident in Ireland,
who is a representative peer on the part of Ire-
land or a member of the House of Commons,
and not residing in Great Britain longer than
forty days before and forty days after such
session.
Carriages. - For every carriage which has foui*
or more wheels and is fitted to bo drawn by two
or more horses or mules, or drawn or propelled
by mechanical power, a licence costing £2, 2s.
must be taken out by the owner. If a four-
wheeled carriage is fitted to be drawn by one
horse only, then the cost of the licence is
£1, Is. This amount is reduced to 15s. if
the one-horse carriage has less than four
wheels ; the licence for all kinds of hackney
carriages is 15s.
Vehicles Exempt from Licence. - Carriages
which are kept but not used at any time during
the year do not require to be licensed, neither
do vehicles constructed and used solely for the
conveyance of goods of trade or husbandry.
Those latter must have tho Christian name and
surname and address of the o\Amor printed on
them in letters of not less than one inch in length.
If, however, a tradesman uses his trade vehicle
for tho purpose of giving his friends or his
family pleasurable jaunts, and not solely for
tho purposes of his trade, he will bo roquii-ed to
take out a licence ; moreover, the vehicle must
bo constructed or adapted for trade purposes.
Therefore a wardrobe dealer cannot avoid the
duty if he conveys goods in a governess cart,
even if he has his name and address painted
upon it and does not use it for pleasure or
any other purpose than in tho exercise of his
calling.
Motor Cars and Cycles. - A person employed
to drive a motor car is a male " servant," and
the employ or is liable to an annual dutj' of IDs.
MANAGEMENT OF MONEY AND LEGAL GUIDE
385
in respect of such a driver. The duties payable
on motor cars are as follows : -
Motor bicycles and tricycles ....
Motor cars not exceeding 6| h.-p. .
,, exceeding 6 h.-p. but under 12 h.-p.
16
26
33
40
60
£, s. d.
10 0
2 2 0
3 3 0
4 4 0
6 6 0
8 8 0
10 10 0
21 1 0
42 0 0
Registration of Motor Cars and Motor Cycles. -
Every cai' must be registered and must bear a
mark indicating its number and the County
Council for which it is registered. The fee for
registration is £1, but in the case of motor cycles
it is 5s. The penalty for using a car without
being registered or using a car the mark on which
is obscured or defaced, is for a first ofience a
penalty not exceeding £10, and for a subsequent
offence a penalty not exceeding £50 or three
months imprisoninent.
Licence of Drivers. - Every person driving a
motor car must have a licence, the fee for
which is 5s. The licence is good for twelve
months, and must be produced by the driver
when demanded by a police constable, otherwise
the driver is liable to a fine not exceeding £5.
No person under the age of seventeen years can
obtain a licence for driving a motor car, but
in the case of motor cycles the age limit is
14 years.
Any person who drives a motor car without
being Ucensed is hable to a fine not exceeding
£20 for a first offence, and for a subsequent
offence to a penalty not exceeding £50 or three
months imprisonment.
Regulations as to Lights, Bells, and Horns. -
During the period between one hour after sunset
and one hour before sunrise, the person in charge
of a motor car must carry attached thereto
lamps so constructed and placed as to exhibit
lights in accordance with the regulations of the
Local Government Board. Moreover, all motor
cars must carry bells or other instruments
warning of their approach. Failure to comply
with these regulations incurs the penalty of a
fine not exceeding £10.
Dog Licences. - With a lew exceptions which
will be detailed below, persons wishing to keep
a dog must take out an annual Hcence for the
purpose. The cost of each dog Ucence is 7s. 6d.
The licences are issued by the Inland Revenue
department, and may be obtained at any post
office. A register of the persons licensed and
the number of dogs for wliich they hold licences
is kept, and is open to the inspection of police
constables and justic>>s of the peace. All dog
licences expire on December 31, irrespective of
the date of issue. No rebate is allowed if the
licence is operative for less than a year. The
licence does not apply to a particular dog ; it ia
the owner who is licensed to keep the dog, and
he cannot transfer the Ucence to another person,
even if that person should become the owner of
the dog.
Dogs Exempted from Payment of Duty. - In the
following cases no hcence is required : -
(1) For dogs under six months old.
(2) Hound puppies under twelve months old
not entered or used with a pack of hounds.
(3) In the case of a dog kept and used solely
by a blind person for his guidance.
(4) Dogs kept and used solely for the purpose
of tending sheep or cattle. The number in this
case is restricted to two.
Penalties for Keeping a Dog without a Licence.
- A person keeping a dog without a licence or
keeping more dogs than he is Ucensed to keep,
or refusing to produce a Ucence on the demand of
an Excise Officer or constable, renders himself
liable to a penalty not exceeding £5.
Dog Owner's Responsibilities. - The most im-
portant question in regard to dogs from the
point of view of the owner is in connection with
the degree of responsibiUty which attaches to
her for acts committed by her canine pet. The
old saying that every dog is entitled to its first
bite is not entu'ely accurate, but it gives a rough
idea of the principles upon which the Courts
have acted. In order to make an owner Uable
for an assault committed by a dog upon a
person, the Court demands that there must be
some evidence of knowledge on the part of the
owner that the dog had a disposition to bite
people. It would be possible to prove this
knowledge in many ways, even although the
animal may not have actually bitten any one
before. Should a dog injure cattle his owner
is Uable for damage whether he was aware
of the mischievous propensity of the dog or
not.
Damage to Dogs. - A person is entitled to
kill a dog in self-defence, and in certain circum-
stances in defence of his property. Tlius a
landowner may kill a dog which is actually
chasing sheep or rabbits in a wari-en if the act
is necessary for the safety of his property,
but not otherwise ; and a dog in pursuit of game
may also be shot by the owner of the game,
but not if the bird or animal piirsued is out of
danger.
Collars. - The Board of Agricultm-e has power
to make orders for prescribing and regulating
the wearing of collars by dogs when out of doors,
each collar to have the name and address of the
owner inscribed upon it on a plate or badge
attached to it. By an order dated 22nd of
October, 1 906, the Board has exempted packs of
hounds, dogs used for sporting purposes, the
capture of vermin, or the tending of sheep, from
this regulation.
Stray Dogs. - Where a police officer has reason
to believe that any dog found in a highway or
2b
386
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
place of public resort is a stray dog, he may
seize the dog and retain it until the owner has
claimed it and paid all expenses incxirred by
tefison of its detention. But the owner, if
known, is entitled to a notice that the dog has
been so seized, and will be liable to be sold or
destroyed if not claimed within seven clear days
after the service of the notice.
Railway Companies and Dogs. - When a dog
is sent from one place to another by rail the
railway company will only be hable to the
owner when a dog is killed or injured as a result
of the negligence or default of the servants of
the company.
The company is, in addition, permitted to
make conditions hmiting the liabihty it is pre-
pared to assume ; but in order to make them
binding upon the public it is necessary first
that the conditions should be reasonable, and,
secondly, there must be a memorandum of the
contract between the parties signed by the
consignor of the dog or his agent. A very
usual form of such condition is one which Hmits
the liabihty of the company to a small fixed sum,
unless the full value of the dog is declared, and a
certain percentage paid upon the excess value
over the sum fixed. If, however, the railway
officials allow the dog to be despatched with-
out this condition being signed, the owner
can recover the whole amount of the loss,
whether he has paid an additional percentage
or not.
Railway Companies' and Passengers' Luggage. -
A railway company is liable to passengers for
loss of their luggage. Of course, if the passenger
carries the luggage in the carriage in which he
is seated, he assumes control over it himself,
and the company is then only hable for loss due
to the neghgence or wilful misconduct of their
servants ; whereas if the luggage is placed in the
van, the company is liable for any loss or damage,
no matter how caused, except damage arising
through some inherent defect in the luggage
itself, such as bad packing.
A railway company, however, is not liable for
loss or injury to gold or silver articles, clocks,
jewellery, watches, bills, money securities,
pictures, stamps, maps, writings, plated goods,
glass, china, silks, furs, or hand-made lace if the
value exceeds £15, unless their value is declared
by the passenger, and an increased charge paid.
Railway companies may hmit their liability in
regard to carrying cycles, making a condition
that such machines are carried at their owners'
risk. But these conditions must be agreed to
by the owner of the cycle and signed by him,
and even then the company will be responsible
for any loss caused through the negligence or
fault of their servants, but they will not be hable
as common carriers.
The liability of the companies for passengers'
luggage begins from the moment the luggage is
handed to their servants for conveyance to the
van or carriage or to be labelled, and ends when
the luggage is dchvered to the passenger and
placed on his cab. If the luggage is merely
handed to a porter to look after it without any
further directions, the company is not hable for
damage that may occur to it. The luggage must
be handed to the porter for immediate or present
and not for future conveyance. A passenger
must claim his luggage within a reasonable time.
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
Sewing has been from olden times an art the practice of which has been the special privilege
of women. In many ancient stories and histories the typical woman is introduced to us plying
her needle. Thus we see in the " Odyssey " Penelope awaiting her royal husband, Ulysses, working
at her famous piece of linen or tapestry, and of the model woman described in Proverbs we are
told : " She seeketh wool and flax and worketh willingly with her hands . . . she maketh herself
coverings of tapestry . . , she maketh fine linen," &c.
We can see in our museums and palaces beautiful needlework done by women of all times ; yet,
strange though it may seem, for the last generation or two until quite recently needlework has
been looked down upon by a certain class of people, with the most lamentable results, for this
ignorance is usually displayed by those to whom the saving effected by a knowledge of practical
sewing would come as an inexpressible boon.
Fortunately much is done nowadays in schools and training colleges for the teaching of needle-
work, and the girl of the present day, the mother of to-morrow, will know how to add to the comfort
and happiness of her home by the clever and timely use of her needle.
It should be the duty of the head of every household to see that the house linen and the children's
clothes are kept in order, and to mend them when there is no one else to do it. "A stitch in time
saves nine " is one of the truest sayings, and a mother should teach her children to sew as soon
as they can be safely trusted with needle and thread.
Every girl or woman can become a neat sewer, and it is important that to begin with she
should know the making of every stitch as well as the diff orent materials and their use. Our
object here is to explain these essential factors in a simple and comprehensive manner in order to
make them as easy as possible for the beginner.
THE WORK-BASKET AND WHAT IT
SHOULD CONTAIN
First of all each worker must have her own
work-basket independently of the household
mending bag or basket. A wicker one is best,
as it is lighter and easier
to carry about. A light
wicker portable work-table
with two fixed trays and a
handle is also useful where
there is much mending to be
done, and it can be bought
for a few shillings.
The T.'ork-basket should
be of medium size, lined,
and furnished with pockets
round the sides to keep
sewing cotton, tapes, &c.,
apart and in order, the centre portion being
allotted to the work itself.
The work-basket should contain : -
Two pairs of scissors - one large pair for
cutting-out, with one blade pointed and the
other round, the latter to be held underneath
the material when cutting ; and one small pair
for cutting threarls, for unpicking and any finer
work. The rings of the scissors ought to be
387
Work-Basket
round and large enough for the fingers to enter
comfortably.
A good thimble - a silver one to be preferred,
and one that fits the finger comfortably.
A good supply of ordinary needles of the best
qualitJ^ To test if they are good try to break
one between the fingers. If the temper of the
steel is first rate it will break off sharply, but
with difficulty ; if it breaks too easily, like a
piece of glass, or bends, the needle is not good.
The needles should be long-eyed to be easily
tlireaded, and the holes ought to be well pohshed,
so that they will not fray nor break the thread.
For working the ordinary seams in plain needle-
work short needles are best, but for other work
longer ones will be required. It will be useful
to have an assortment of different sizes of
needles from Nos. 5 to 12 to suit the various
tliicknesses of thread that will be used. There
ought also to be a small supply of other kinds
of needles, such as crewel needles, darners,
chenille needles, Berlin wool needles, &c. It is
a good plan to buy a needle-case fitted with
the best quality of needles and containing all
the different shapes and sizes that may be
required.
A small emery cushion to polish rusty needles.
Five or six reels of white cotton, one of them
388
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
\-ery fine to match No. 10 needles, and two or
three reels of black cotton. (The numbers vary
with different meJiere.)
A card or reel of whito darning cotton for
stockings.
A card or reel of black darning cotton for
stockings.
A card or reel of tan darning cotton for
stockings.
A few skeins of white embroidery cotton.
A reel of white silk, medium size.
A reel of black silk, medium size.
A reel of black silk, tliick for button-holes.
Also a card or reel of cotton or silk of the
colour of each dress, pair of gloves, stockings, &c.,
for mending.
Darning wool to match the stockings and
imderclothing.
A reel or skein of whito and one of black Unen
thread may be very useful for sewing linen,
holland, and other strong materials.
Wliitљ crochet cotton for fancy stitches.
A box of mixed pins.
One or two bodkins for running in tapes
and ribbons.
A stiletto for piercing holes to make eyelet
holes, &c.
Pieces of tape, white and black of different
sizes, linen and cotton.
Linen buttons in assorted sizes.
Pearl buttons in assorted sizes.
\Vhito and black hooks and eyes of different
sizes.
A tape measure marked with inches on one
side and centimetres on the other.
A small pin-cushion.
Machine needles, cotton, &c., should bo kept
with the machine outfit ; they will be more
handy in the machine drawer. The small
articles, such as hooks and eyes and buttons,
should be kept in a little box or a small bag ;
or a glass bottle with a screw lid is good, SiS the
contents can so easily bo seen.
SIMPLE STITCHES
General Hints. - Before describing the different
stitches used in plain needlework it might be
as well to give a few preliminary instructions.
The position of the body when sewing is very
important. Whatever the work may be there
is never any need to sit in an awkward position.
The height of the chair ought to be in propor-
tion to that of the table at which one is sitting,
and if this is somewhat high a foot-stool may
be used. There must be no undue stooping
of the body, and the work must be held suffi-
ciently high to prevent more than a slight in-
clination of the head.
Sewing should always be done in a good
light ; there must be no straining of the eye-
sight.
The work should never be pinned to the knee,
as this causes the body to take an ungainly
attitude, but should be fixed to a small weighted
cushion on the table when it is necessary to
keep it in a certain position.
The thread must never be bitten off with the
teeth, but neatly cut with a pair of scissors.
Both thread and needle must be adapted to
each other, and also to the material with wluch
they are to be used. Fine cotton and fine
needles should be used for fine material, and
thicker needle and cotton for coarser material.
The needle ought always to be chosen a little
thicker than the cotton in order to make a
hole large enough for the latter to enter easily.
The end of the cotton which hangs loose from
the reel should always be put through the
needle first and the thread used the way it
unwinds. It wU bo loss likely to break and
fray out if this is done. Never sow with a bent
needle, as it will be impossible to make noat
and even stitches, and if it becomes sticky pass
it several times through the emery cushion.
Be careful how you commence and finish each
new seam. The thimble should be worn on
the middle finger of the right hand.
The following explanations of stitches are
made as simple and varied as possible. The
best way to master a new stitch is to read each
explanation t^^^ce through, study the illustra-
tions of it thorouglily, and only then begin
attempting it. Practice will show that this is
not waste of time. It ^vill be a little slower
perhaps at the commencement, but the worker
will soon find herself doing quicker and more
accurate work.
Also be very exact in the measurements,
one-eighth, one-sixth, one quarter, &o., of an
inch; those will become so familiar with time
and practice that thoy will hardly need to be
measured.
Basting or Tacking. - Basting or tacking is
used to keep the different parts of the garments
together, or to fix the seams and ^/atterns
straight and securely before they are sewn.
It is really a preparation soam, and should bo
liasting or Tacking.
done most carefully, and never be overlooked
under pretence that it is waste of time. It
will be found in the long run that on the contrary
it is a groat saving of time, besides being the
only sure means of producing noat and even
work. Begin by making a knot at the end of
a fairly long piece of cotton, as tacking threads
are more easily taken out when there is a knot by
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
389
which to take hold of them. Basting or tacking
cottona shoiild be used if possible, preferably
pink, pale blue, or any colour that will not soil
white material, and wliich will be easily seen.
Hold the material Ughtly, yet firmly, so that it
may not slip, and make the stitches just above
where the hne of running, hemming or seaming
stitches will be. Begin at the right-hand side,
put in the needle straight down, and bring it
out on a horizontal Mne a quarter of an inch
further on ; pass ov^r half an inch and put
the needle in again and out another quarter
of an inch farther, and so on, making the stitches
twice as large as the intervals left between them.
At the end of the seam put the needle twice
in the same stitch, making what is called a
back-stitch, so as to fasten off the thread.
Hemming. - Hemiuing is used to fasten down
the raw edge of all materials, to fell, or fold
down a seam. Nearly aU articles of household
linen and underclothing require hemming. The
piu-pose of the hem is to strengthen and orna-
ment the edge of the material. It can, if wished,
be finished off prettily with fancy stitches or a
lace edging. A great deal of hemming is done
by machine ; this certainly saves time and
trouble and does for longer or coarser articles,
but neat work done by hand is always more
elegant, lasting, and valuable.
A hem is of different widths according to the
piece of work for which it is used. It varies from
the eighth of an inch hem at the end of a mushn
frill to the one of three or four inches or more
in width at the foot of a petticoat or a dress.
Laying the Hem. - The hem must be cut per-
fectly straight, to a thread if possible. Cahco,
muslin, and cotton materials generally tear to
a tliread, but as they are apt to pull cross-
ways, especially those that are stiffened, one
should first try on a piece of the material if
it tears well. After tearing hold the material
by the two opposite corners diagonally and
pull it carefully until the raw edges are in a
straight horizontal line again. This done, hold
the wrong side of the material towards you.
Turn down the raw edge towards you : tliis first
fold should be one-quarter or one-third of an inch
wide, according to the width of the hem. In
musliuj, nainsook, or any light materials the first
fold should be exactly as wide as the hem itself so
that the raw edges do not show through. Now
fold ovec the hem for the second time to the
desired width. Do the folding on the table if pos-
sible, making the hem of the required depth, and
press down firmly with the nail of the thumb.
Some people prefer to hold up the material in the
right hand and fold it as they go along, pressing
it down with the thumb of the left hand. This
method, however, has the disadvantage of creas-
ing the material, tlms detracting from that
" new " appearance which adds to the value of
hand-made garments.
To ensure the even folding of wide hems it
is a good plan to use a card notched to the
width of the hem and to measure every three
or four inches before pressing down for the
second folding. In hemming serge or any
material that will not crease, the first folding
down should be tacked, and the card-measure
apphed to every stitch for the second folding.
Flannel hems are only turned down once.
When hemming the four sides of a square
turn down the two opposite sides first, then
the two other opposite sides, so that the corners
may be aUke. When the hem is turned down
it should be tacked unless it is too smaU. ilake
the tacking stitches about one-eighth of an inch
above the edge.
Sewing the Hem. - Hold the hem in your left
hand. The cotton should be about the tliick-
ness of the tlxreads of the material. Do not
take it too long. Insert the point of the needle
under the second fold of the hem at the right-
Hemming.
hand side, two threads from the edge of the
hem. Draw it tlirough, leaving an end of
cotton half an inch long. Shp this end under
the fold towards the left, and hold the hem
secm-ely over the first finger so that it does
not slip.
Insert the point of the needle in the material
just below the edge of the fold, two or tlu-ee
tlireads to the left of the place where the needle
was first put in. Direct it slantingly upwards
to the left, take two or tlu-ee tlireads diagonally,
and bring the needle out through the fold of
the hem, on the same Une and five or six thi-eads
apart from the first place the needle came
through. Go on thus holding the needle
slantingly, the point upwards until the cotton
is finished. When taking a new length of
cotton, tuck the ends under the fold of the
hem.
To fasten off, work twice over the last stitch
and cut the cotton close to the fold if it is a raw
edge that will be covered. If it is a selvedge,
or the top hem on a square henuned on all sides,
the hem should be continued to the end of the
material, then the corners should be carefully
seamed. At the end of the seam make a
double stitch, insert the needle between the
fold and the hem at the top, bring it out on
the wrong side the length of the needle, and cut
the tliread close to the hem. If the cotton is
lightly pulled when cutting it will disappear in
the fold.
390
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Avoid pvilling the cotton in hemming or the
material will be puckered ; only pull it if the
hem is a circular one, and convex, or if you
fell a seam on the cross £is on the sides of a
chemise or a night -govrn, when the stitches
should then be very close together. If the hem
is concave, as round a neck or an armhole, the
material will need to be stretched to he flat,
or else it must be snipped with the scissors ;
this should be thought of when tacking, and
in hemming the material should be carefully
stretched on the left forefinger.
Felling. - ^Tliis is the same as hemming. The
term is always apphed in connection with seams,
where two pieces of material are joined together
and one edge is folded in and hemmed down,
as in the " run and fell " seam.
Running and Gathering. - ^Running is a stitch
used for joining together two pieces of material,
as in a run and foil seam ; it is also used for
making tucks. It does not make a strong
seam, and should not be employed where there
is much strain. It is a stitch sometliing hke
tacking, only the stitches are much shorter and
are all of the same size. If the material is thin,
like muslin or soft hke silk, several stitches may
be taken up at once on the needle. Hold the
work in the same way as for basting. Do not
Running.
knot the cotton, but begin at the right-hand
side with a back-stitch. When ready to take
a fresh needleful of cotton, first work over the
last stitch twice with the old cotton, pulUng
the needle for thaso extra stitches through one
piece of the material only, then cut off the
thread, put the needle with the new cotton in
the second last stitch ; make a double stitch
in the last two stitches also through the single
material, then proceed with the running to
the end. Fasten off with a back-stitch. For
gathering, the stitches should be double the size
of the spaces (see p. 395).
Seaming or Top Sewing is very like over-
Cfisting, only the stitches are finer and closer
together. It is used to join two pieces of
material together as in the sew and fell seam,
and is worked over the edge of the material.
V^'hen two selvedges have to be joined it is
generally this stitch which is used. Place the
two selvedges together with the wrong sides out-
wards and tack them about one-eighth inch down.
For seaming, hold the work upright between
the left thumb and forefinger. Begin at the right-
hand end, leaving about half an inch of cotton
to be worked over with the first few stitches.
Sew over and over the two selvedges, making
neat slanting stitches and just deep enough to
hold the pieces together. There must bo no
knots made in seaming. When a new piece
of cotton is required, work over the two ends
with the first few stitches. The ends must
remain near the surface of the seam, and the
stitches must be taken underneath so as to
Seaming or Top Sewing.
hide them and make them secure at the same
time. Then continue to the end of the seam.
To fasten off, work backwards over the last
three stitches exactly in the same holes so as
to make three neat Uttle crosses ; after the third
insert your needle to the right in the middle of
the stitches and bring it out to the left at the
end of the seam. Then cut off the cotton and
take out the tacking threads. Open out the
work on the table and flatten it carefully from
right to left with the thumb-nail.
Stitching. - In stitching a short stitch is taken
on the upper and a long one on the under side,
then the needle is taken backwards through the
hole made by the last stitch. Stitching is used
to finish off neck and wrist bands, and for seams
where a very strong even stitch is required.
Stitching is always worked on two or moro
thicknesses of material. It is apt to tire the
eyes, and should not be worked for too long
at a time ; in fact, long -stitched seams should
be done by a good machine. When stitching
bj' hand, if a straight lino of stitches is required,
it is bettor to draw a tliread of the material.
Tliis requires a little skill and careful attention.
Choose a thread thicker than the others if
Stitching.
possible, keeping of course in the correct place
where the stitching ought to be. Insert the
needle under it about half an inch from the
right-side end and bring it out. Secure it firmly
between the thumb and forefinger of your right
hand, and hold the whole width of the material
where the stitching is to be worked in your left
hand also between tho thumb and finger. Then
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
391
ease the material from the thread by rubbing
it gently along, beginning at the right-hand
side, with the thumb and forefinger of your left
hand, and make it gently sHp on the tliread.
When the tliread breaks, which often happens
in light materials, it is easily found again, as
the material is slightly creased near the broken
part. Take it up again half an inch from the
broken end and go on drawing very gently.
Back-stitching is much the same as stitching,
only the stitch is taken half-way back instead
Back-Stitching.
of all tho way, leaving a small space between
each stitch.
Overcasting. - Overcasting is not used as a
rule for any of the seams or any sewing worked
on calico or Mnen materials. It is used for
edges or seams in dress bodices, sleeves, and
skirts when the raw edges cannot be hidden
in any other way. It is difficult to overcast
' rvTrimnnnnmrrv
Overcasting.
very evenly. The sticches are usually worked
from left to right as in illustration. Be very
careful in overcasting not to draw the thread too
tightly or the edge would curl. When the seam
has to be smpped to allow it to curve outwards,
the overcasting should follow the cuts, be done
neatly over the angles, and two or three close
stitches made inside the snips so that the
material should not um-avel near the seam.
DIJTERENT CALICO SEAMS
Seams are used to join together widths or
pieces of material. They vary according to
the materials or garments they are used for.
There are six different kinds of calico seams : -
(1) The Top-sewing Seam, which is used for
the joining together of two selvedges.
(2) The Sew and Fell Seam.- Used for caHco
garments, such as chemises, drawers, night-
dresses, men's shirts, and any garments which
need to be joined very strongly.
(3) The Run and Fell Seam.- Used for cahco,
muslin, and garments of hghter material.
(4) The French Seam. - Used especially for
thin materials and silk, for making slip-bodices
and outer garments, as overalls, pinafores, and
any garments of which as little as possible of
the seam must be seen on the right side.
(5) The Mantua-maker's Seam. - Used for
fine materials, more especially used in dress-
making for pockets, sleeves, seams of skirts,
and any garments that have no hning. It is
much used also for fancy articles, as silk bags,
reticules, &c.
(6) The Counter Hem. - Used sometimes for
under bodices, nightgowns, shoulder seams,
infants' first shirts, and baby clothes in general.
Notes. - When making the seam in a garment
the fell should always fall towards the back.
The \vidth of seams must always be the same
tliiroughout. If one breadth of the material is
straight and the other gored, i.e. on the cross,
the gored breadth should alwaj's be next to the
worker. The corresponding seams in garments
should always be worked to pair with each
other ; that is to say, if one seam is begun at
the top the corresponding one must be begun
at the bottom, as in sleeves, for instance.
The Sew and Fell Seam. - To make a sew and
fell seam turn down an eighth of an inch on
the wrong side of one of the pieces of material
Fig. 1.
to be joined. Turn down an eighth of an inch
on the right side of the other piece of material ;
turn back tliis folded edge nearly a quarter of
an inch, still holding the material exactly in the
same way. This double fold must always be
on the front %vidth of the material when joining
the pieces of a garment together. If one side
of the seam is on the cross, as in nightgowns,
the double fold should be made on the straight
side.
Put the two pieces of material together edge
to edge with the right side outside and the folds
inside, and tack an eighth of an inch from the
top, beginning at the bottoni of the garment.
Then seam neatly together, beginning at the
bottom of the garment (fig. 1).
Fig. 2.
When the seaming is done, take out the
tacking threads, open the seam, and press it
doMm flat on the table with the thumb-nail in
392
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the same direction as the seaming has been
worked. Turn over the work on tlie wrong
side, tack down the fold and neatly fell it.
Then take out the tacking tlireads (fig. 2).
The Run and Fell Seam. - The run and fell
seam is simpler and easier than the sow and
fell seam, and can often be used instead of it.
To make a run and fell seam turn down an
eighth of an inch on the right side of one of the
pieces of material to be joined and crease it
well down. Place the raw edge of the second
piece of material under this crease so that the
two right sides of the material are turned in-
wards face to face.
Tack the two pieces of material together begin-
ning at the right-hand side a Uttle distance from
FlO. 3.
the edge. Be careful to put the needle through
the three thicknesses. Then run the two pieces
neatly together just below the tacking thread,
taking a back-stitch every six stitches or so.
Take out the tacking threads and press the
seam perfectly flat, so that the raw edge is
Fio. 4
hidden els in a hem. Tack the fold down neatly
and then fell it (fig. 4).
The French Seam. - To make a French seam
put the two pieces of material together edge
Fifl. 5.
to edge with the right sides outwards. Tack,
then run, with an occasional back-stitch an
eighth of an inch down from the top edge
(fig. 6). Remove the tacking thread, turn the
Fio. 6.
work over to the wrong side, and press the seam
carefully so that it forms the top edge. Tack
an eighth of an inch down from the top and
run below this, being very careful to take in
the raw edges on the other side (fig. 6). If the
material is heavy, or if the seam has to be very
strong, stitching may bo worked instead of
running.
The Mantua-maker's Seam. - Lay the two raw
edges of the materials together, the right sides
inwards, and so that the top width hes an
eighth of an inch below the under width. Turn
down that eighth of an inch of the under-width
Fia. 7.
over the top width. Again turn down the
two materials together an eighth of an inch
deep. Tack through the whole thickness very
carefully. Then hem, being very c£u*eful to take
every stitch through the under-side (fig. 7).
Remove the tacking stitches. The seam will
stand in a ridge instead of lying flat.
The Counter Hem. - For counter hemming,
turn down a fold an eighth of an inch deep on
the right side of one of the widths of material.
Jig. 8.
Turn down a fold an eighth of an inch deep on
the wrong side of the other width of material.
Place the two folded edges over one another
and pin the seam down the middle, then tack
down the fold on the right side. Turn over
and tack down the fold on the wrong side, or,
if the material hes easily, it may be tacked once
only down the centre (fig. 8). Take out the pins
and hem down the fold on the right side, then
Fio. 9.
hem on the wrong side (fig. 9). Some people
stitch this seam instead of hemming it down.
In that case both rows of stitches should be
made on the right side, and the tacking made
so that the stitches should be very near the
edge of both folds.
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
393
A False Hem. - A false hem is used to join a
piece or strip of material on to another garment.,
It is meant either to lengthen a garment or to
strengthen it. The material used for the false
hem need not necessarily be the same as that
of the garment. Cut and join together a strip
of material long enough for the false hem
required.
The joining should as much as possible be
done on selvedges and top sewn. K that is not
possible, fold down the raw edges of the materials
to be joined half an inch wide. Put the folds
down back to back, so that the raw edges be
outwards, and overseam. Open the seam out
so that the folds he flat on each side.
When the strip is prepared, place it against
the garment the right sides inwards, and the
Fig. 10.
two edges even one with the other. Tack and run
them together quarter of an inch at least from the
top (fig. 10). Then turn over the false hem and
fold it down half an inch above the seam, so
that the latter does not show on the outside.
Tack this fold cajrefully half an inch from the
foot, then place the garment very flat on
the table, with the wrong side uppermost, and
fold in the raw edge of the false hem half an inch
Fig. h.
inwards. Tack it very carefully an eighth of
an inch above the edge. Then hem it down
(% 11).
DIFFERENT FLANNEL SEAMS
Flannel seams differ from calico seams in
that they are not made with double folds, as the
material is too thick. There are three different
kinds of flannel seams : -
I. and II. - The Open Flannel Seams, used when
a very flat seam is required, as in baby clothes,
barracoata, flannel vests, bodices, &c.
ni. - The Closed Flannel Seam.used for stronger
garments, as flannel petticoats, flannel shirts,
night-dresses, &c.
The Open Flannel Seam. - ^I. To make an open
flannel seam, place the two jiieces of flannel
together, the right sides inwards, and the edges
exactly parallel. Tack, then run them to-
gether a httle more than an eighth of an inch
down from the top. Take out the tacking
threads. Open the seam out and turn down
each edge of the flannel on to its own piece
of material. Flatten at the join and tack down
Fig. 12.
if necessary. Herring-bone each fold down,
taking one thickness of material only, first the
fold at the top and then the material below in
turns (fig. 12). (For Herring-boning, see p. 397.)
II. There is another way of feUing an
open flannel seam. When the seam is run
and flattened down, work only one row of
herring-boning in the exact centre of the seam
on the wrong side, one stitch above the join
and one below alternately, being very careful
to work through both thicknesses and show neat
running stitches on the right side of the work.
This seam is not so neat as the first, only it is
quicker and quite strong. Tlie raw edges are
not wide enough to unravel.
The Closed Flannel Seam. - To make a closed
flannel seam put the two pieces of flannel together
with the right sides inwards, the top piece of
flannel an eighth inch below the under. If one
of the widths is gored, put the gored one on the
top of the other. Tack one-sixth of an inch below
the gored edge, then run and back-stitch just
below the tacking. Take out the tacking threads.
Fold the longer edge over the shorter one, making
Fio. 13
the seam as flat as possible, and tack in position.
Then herring-bone dowTi and remove the tacking
threads (fig. 13).
TUCKING
To Measure and Make Tucks. - Tucks are folds
of material taken double and resting on the
single material. They vary in width according
to the material and the garment. In muslin,
nainsook, cambric, &c., for baby gowns, fine
394
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
tan, ^Cut
blouses, rabats, handkercliiefs, &c., they are very
small. In underliaen tliey are a little wider. In
flannel petticoats they are often one or two
inches deep ; also at tlie foot of drosses, &c.
Sometimes they are arranged in sets with a
space between or ^^nth a deeper tuck between.
These sets should always be uneven in nvunber,
t.e. 3, 5, 7, &c.
They may also be graduated in size. For
instance, the tuck above the hem would be the
largest, the next one would be smaller, and
BO on until the top one, which would be smallest
of all.
In making tucks it must be remembered that
efich tuck occupies tliree times its width, i.e. : -
1. The surface side of the tuck.
2. The under side of the tuck,
3. The width of material the tuck lies upon.
So for a tuck a quarter of an inch deep, you
require to leave tliree-quarter inches width, not
counting the space left
between the tucks. Those
spaces vary according to the
width of the tucks and also
according to taste ; there
is no definite rule. Gener-
ally, if the tucks are moder-
ately narrow, the space
should bo the size of the
tuck, so that a quarter of
an inch tuck would require
one inch of material, i.e.
the three-quarter of an inch
required for the making of
it, plus a quarter of an inch for space. If the
tucks are wide, the spaces should be a half or
a third of the size of the tucks.
When tucks are very narrow or in sets, each
tuck may touch the running stitches of the
preceding one without hiding the stitches.
But, again, this is according to taste. Tucks
must never overlap each other.
When you have decided upon the size of the
tucks, the best way is to make a tuck-marker
by notching a piece of cardboad or stif? paper to
the right depth so that each tuck may be very
Tuck- Marker.
Tucking.
accurate. Carry the marker along the tuck as
you tack it every throe or four inches. Some
people prefer to use a tape measure or a small
inch ruler, but this is not such an ea.sy forrr of
measureinent. The method of making the tuck-
marker is shown in the diagram.
In fine materials it is sometimes a good plan
to draw a tlu-ead where the running stitches
are to be worked and work along that. Never
draw a thread at the edge of the tuck, as it
would soon wear out with washing and ironing.
For running the tucks fold them upwards,
as the running stitches must be worked on
the under side. Jlako the running stitches one
thread below the tacking stitches. Make no
back-stitches except in beginning and fastening
off, and be careful to show on the top of the
tuck a row of neat and even stitches.
PIPING
Piping is used for strengthening tlie neck
and armholes of outer garments as overalls and
frocks ; also for trimming purposes.
For piping use a piece of cotton cord or fine
string if proper piping cord cannot be procured.
String does not look so well, as it is too stiff.
The cord must be inserted in strips of material
generally cut on the cross or bias (see p. 434).
treasure from the cross-way edges one and one-
eighth inches and cut strips along them until you
have the length required for the piping. When
one strip is cut it is quicker and surer to put
it down again on the material cross edges to
cross edges, and to cut the other strips from it.
Stitch the pieces together a little more than
an eighth of an inch from the top, then open
out the seams and flatten them well. Be care-
ful to stitch aU the joins on the wrong side of
the material. Any scraps of the material may
be used for the strips, only be very careful to
cut them of equal width.
When the strip is the proper length, tiu-n down
three-eighth of an inch on the wrong aide of the
material \vithout stretching the work. Crease
well down, then lift up the fold and place the
cord along the crease. Turn tho fold down
Fio. 14.
again and tack along through both thicknesses of
material (fig. 14). Tho tacking stitches require
to be smaller than ordinary tacking stitches.
Place the narrow edge of the piping exactly on
to the raw edge of the right side of garment and
tack carefully through the three thicknesses of
material. Run and back-stitch quite close to
the cord, but be careful not to put the needle
through it (fig. 15). Take out the tacking
threads and cut the cords the required length.
Turn over and press carefully so that the
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
cord stands out along the top. Then fell the
edge of the piping on to the material.
When the piping has to come in the middle of
two thicknesses of material, as at the foot of
a lined yoke, the cross -way strips of material
should be cut tliree-quarters to one inch wide.
Then fold in two and put in the cord as before.
The piping must be placed first to the right side
Fig. 15.
of the garment with the uppermost edges exactly
even ; tht-n the bottom of the yoke on the top
with the edge uppermost and even with the
other two edges, so that the piping is between
the garment and the yoke. Tack in position,
then stitch through all thicknesses close to the
cord. Then turn up the yoke, and hem down
the yoke lining over all the raw edges on the
wrong side of the garment.
Piping can be used to draw the tops of frills
and flounces. A crease should be made where
the material has to be drawn, the cord placed
inside on the wrong side of the garment, then
secured with running on the right side. When
the running is done, hold the left-side end of the
cord in your left hand and shp the material
gently along with the Ihiunb and forefinger of
your right hand. Several rows of this piping
and drawing make a very effective trimming.
GATHERING, STROKING, AND SETTING IN
Gathering stitches resemble running stitches,
only in gathering you leave more tlireads than
you take up, so as to make the gathers deeper and
easier to keep in order and to give a fluted and
grooved effect. You may take up two threads
and miss four, or take four and miss six, accord-
ing to the amount of material that has to be
gathered into a given space. Gathering is
worked on the right side of the material across
the selvedge. It must be done very evenly.
The cotton used in gathering should bo coarser
than the one used for ordinary sewing. Do not
double the cotton, as it is apt to twist and knot,
and if one thread breaks it looks untidy. The
material gathered should as a rule be "at least
half as wide again as the band or yoke into
which it is required to fit. Find the middle of
the material and mark it vnth a pin or stitched
cross. Divide again into quarters and mark
them. Turn down the top edge a quarter of
an inch, crease it well down, and then open it.
The gathering stitohes must be made along the
crease. Begin the gathering at the right-hand
395
side. If there are hems on the sides, leave them
perfectly flat and never gather over them.
When the end is finished, unthread the needle
and make a knot in the thread. If the
material to be gathered is wide and requires
several gathering threads, begin those where
the halves and quarters are marked. Begin
and end each time as directed.
Place a pin at the end of the gathers and also
before each new thread, with the point to the
top edge. Hold the thread in your left hand
and draw the gathers to the right with the right
hand, leaving them slightly loose. Twist the
cotton round the top and bottom of the pin
about three or four times. The work is now
ready for stroking.
Stroking. - Stroking is the placing of all the
gathers evenly side by side. Hold the work in
the left hand, the right side of the material
towards you, and begin at the left side and work
towards the right. It will be found easier to
pin the right-hand side of the work on to a lead
cushion (see fig. 16). Use a wool needle, as
this will not scratch the material. Hold the
Fig. 16.
needle in your right hand slantingly, the point
upwards. Raise each gather gently with the
point of the needle and stroke down into the
little ruck which lies between, mo\ang it gently
to the left. Hold the gathers firmly under your
left thumb until they are all stroked. Tlie top
part above the gathering threads should be
stroked in the same way.
Setting In. - ^Take the band or piece of material
into which the gatherings have to be set, di\-ide
it into halves and quarters and mark as on
the gathered part. Undo the gathering tlu-eads
from the pins. Place the folded edge of the
band exactly over the gathering thread and pin
together the halves and quarters respectively.
Loosen the gathers exactly to the size of the
band and fasten the gathering tlireads again to
the pins. Arrange the gathers evenly below
the band with the point of the needle, putting
in more pins if necessarj'^ and tack in position.
Hem neatly, taking up each of the gathers on
396
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the needle. When nil the gathers are set in
take out the piiis, thread each gatlu-riiig thread
and finish it off, passing it through to the
wrong side and making two or three double
stitches. Then turn over the work. Tack
down the wrong side of the band exactly
Fig. 17.
on the hemming stitches. Fell it, being very
careful that the stitches do not show through on
the right side.
When the band is stitched by hand it should
be stitched after the first side of gathers are set
in two or three tlireads above the gathers, and
the felling done afterwards. A thread might be
drawn previously where the stitching is to be
worked.
If the stitching is done by machine it should
be done tlirough the whole band after it has been
felled.
WHIPPING
Whipping is used principally for the gather-
ing up of lace frills or for frills naade of very
fine material such as muslin or cambric. It
is also used instead of hemming on the raw
edges of very fine frills. Tliese should bo cut
by the thread or torn across tlie selvedge. Tlio
width of the frill will depend upon the purpose
for which it is to be used : for ordinary under-
clothing it should be from an inch to two inches
deep. The length should bo twice that of the
hem or band to be trimmed, or oven longer if
the material of the frill is very fine, if the
frill is deep, or there are comers to be turned.
Make a hem as narrow as possible at the foot of
the frill ; or it may be hom-stitchod. If several
widths of material aro required for the frill, seam
them neatly together b< fore beginning. If the
frill is to be round as for a wrist-band, join the
ends Ijefore beginning to whip. Divide the frill
and the band on which it has to Ix) gathered
ir to halves or quarters accorfling to length.
Take a rather coarse cotton and a fresh noodloful
for each section of the frill. To whip the frill
hold it as for hemming the top. To start it
turn a very tiny hem down and work two or
three hemming stitches. Hold the material
between the thumb and forefinger of your left
hand, keep the forefinger quite still, lot the
frill rest on it, and rub the thumb up and down
so as to roll dovm the top raw edge, making a
very tight and very neat roll.
When you have rolled down an inch insert tho
needle at the back of the roll very close to it, the
point towards you slanting towards tho loft. The
stitches should be slanting on the wrong side and
straight on the right side (fig. 18). Put the needle
Fia. 18.
through one thickness only and never tlu-ough
the roll, or tho cotton would not draw easily.
The stitches must be very neat and regular, about
one-eighth inch apart. Whip the inch prepared,
and then roll another inch, and so on, drawing it
up slightly as you go along. When the frill is
whipped pin the halves, quarters, &c., on to the
band exactly as for setting in gathers, the top
right-hand side of the band against the top right
side of the frill, holding the wrong side of the
frill towards you. Seciu-e the end of the whipp*
ing thread of the frill by twisting it round a
pin as for gathering, and arrange the fulness
evenly.
To sew the frill on the band begin at the right-
hand side with two or tliroe seaming stitches,
then put the needle at the back, taking the
smallest possible amount of the band and bring
it out in front passing under the middle of each
little roll. Each seaming stitch must be exactly
on the whipping stitch of the roll (fig. 19). At
FIO. 19.
the end fasten off as in seaming. Finish off and
cut off the whipping cotton. Raise up the frill
on the right side and flatten the seam well with
the thumb-nail.
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
397
FANCY STITCHES
Herring-boning. - So called because it is sup-
posed to resemble the back-bone of a herring.
This stitch is used principally for flannel seams
(see p. 393) and for the seams of patches (see
p. 415). It is a good plan to practise it first
on a piece of canvas with coloured cotton or
wool. To herring-bone a flannel hem begin at
the left-hand side, hold the work as for hemming,
and work from left to right. Put the needle
under the fold close to the edge, bring it out on
the top, and make one double-stitch. Then from
the hole where the cotton comes out count four
threads down (or their equivalent) and four to
the right ; insert the needle in the fourth and
bring it out horizontally two threads to the left.
Then from the hole where the cotton comes out
count four tlireads up and four to the right, and
again insert the needle and bring it out horizon-
tally two threads to the left. The needle must
always be held horizontally, and each stitch con-
sist of two tlireads taken towards the left, which
shows a double row of small running stitches on
the other side. Finish off neatly. Keep the
cotton well^ behind the needle and do not allow
it to pass under the point. Tlie stitches must
lie smoothly without puckering the material. It
is not easy to count the threads in flannel, but
if the size of the stitches has been learnt on
canvas it will be easy to keep them regular with
a httle care and practice.
Feather and Coral Stitching. - ^Feather and
coral stitches are used to ornament both flannel
and cotton garments. They are often worked
in the centre of a narrow band, on both edges of
a wider one, along a hem, or between tucks. For
cotton goods use crochet cotton, coarse or fine.
Feather Stitching.
Coral Stitching.
according to the nature of the work. For
flannel use flax thread or flannel silk. Work
with a crewel needle.
The great point in both kinds of stitches is to
rnake them very regular and to keep the middle
rib on a straight line. As it is impossible to
count the threads, a Uttle practice is necessary to
make the stitches regular. When making the
stitches on the front of a garment always work
downwards, and if there are several hues of
feathering begin them all at the top, so that all
the stitches lie in the same direction.
Single Feather Stitch. - Take the threaded
needle and seciare the end of the cotton by making
two or tliree stitches in a seam at the back of
the work where they won't be seen, then slip the
needle through the front ready to begin the
stitches. Hold the cotton under the left thumb ;
insert the needle a httle distance to the right-
hand side a very Httle higher than the place where
the cotton comes out, slanting it to the left ;
bring it out a httle below the place it was brought
out before ; be very careful to pass the point of
the needle over the cotton held by the left
thumb. This makes a little " V " towards the
right caught at the foot.
Again hold the cotton under the left thumb,
turn the needle to the right-hand side this time,
and insert it as far again from the middle rib
as it was inserted before to the right ; slant it
towards the right, and bring it out in the middle
rib a httle below the preceding stitch, being
always careful to pass the point over the cotton
held by the left thumb. This makes a httle " V "
towards the left also caught at the foot.
Repeat this, making a slanting stitch towards
the right, then towards the left alternately,
until you have the length required.
To finish off pass the needle and cotton to the
wrong side close to the place it came out, being
careful to catch the loop, and cut off close to the
work. Be careful not to draw the cotton too
tightly or it will pucker the material ; it should
rather be left somewhat loose to allow for
shrinkage in the washing.
The Double Feather Stitch is so called because
it consists of two stitches worked one below the
other to the right, then two to the left of the
middle rib. It is very effective and less stiff in
appearance than single feather stitching.
The Treble Feather Stitch consists of three
stitches -o-orked one below the other, first to
the right and then to the left alternately ; it is
rather more elaborate than the other kinds of
feather stitching, but very pretty, especially
worked in fine stitches on the top of a chemise
or on the knee-band of drawers, &c. As the
middle rib in both double and treble feather
stitches curves somewhat right and left with
each group of little stitches, care must be taken
to make these curves very regular.
The Coral Stitch resembles feather stitch; in
fact, one is often mistaken for the other, although
they are worked in a different way.
Smgle Coral Stitch. - Use the same cotton,
silk, needle, &c., as for feather stitcliing.
Hold the needle straight down instead of slanting
it either to the right or to the left. Bring out
the needle to the front of the work and hold the
398
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
cotton \rith the left tliunib as before. Insert
the needle a little to the right exactly on a line
with the hole where it came out, and take a few
threads straight down on a vertical line. Pass
the point of the needle over the cotton held by
the left thumb.
Again liold the cotton under the left thumb and
insert the needle a httle to the left exactly on a
horizontal Une from where it came out ; take the
same number of tlu-eads straight down on a
vertical line and bring up the point of the needle
over the cotton held by the left thumb, and
repeat tliis working from right to the left until
the lengtli required is finished.
The Double Coral Stitch is worked in very much
the same way as single coral stitch ; only two
stitches are made towards the right, then two
towards the left, and so on. The needle is in-
serted a little more slantingly towards the left
and the right than in the single coral stitch.
Blanket Stitch. - The blanket stitch, also called
loop stitch, is a kind of button-hole stitch worked
on the ends of blankets to prevent their un-
ravelUng and to give them a more finished
appearance.
Turn do^vn the raw edge of the blanket a
Uttle way and tack it very flat with a needle and
cotton. A selvedge will not require to be turned
do-"-n. The stitch may be worked in bright red,
pale blue, or any pretty coloured wool.
There are several different patterns of blanket
stitch which can be varied according to taste. To
work the ordinary blanket stitch (fig. 20) begin at
and a qutu-tor of aia inch apart from each other
at the foot.
Other blanket stitches can be made by vary-
ing the length of the stitches and giving them
Fio. 20.
the left-hand comer and hold tho work with the
right sido uppermost. Bring the needle through
from the back to the front about half an inch
from tho edge or above the fold. Insert it again
a quarter of an inch to the right, holding it
vertically downwards, and slip the point over
tho wool. Tho needle and wool sho>ild be drawn
straight downwards, but not too tightly, and so
as to make a nico ridge of stitches along the
bottom. Again insert the needle one quarter of
an inch to the right of the previous stitch and
bring it vertically down through the loop, and
so on.
To turn comers, make three stitches (or five
if necessary) quite close to each other at the top.
Fio. 21.
different slopes, as in fig. 21. This is a little
more fanciful in appearance.
A Scallop Edge. - Scalloping may be used on
a hem or as an edging for flannel garments.
The stitch is generally worked on double
material, as at the edge of a hem or false hem,
but when used as a trimming only, as in a
flannel frill, single material is sufficient. The
scallops may be cut in cardboard (three or four
together), placed at the edge of the material and
traced lightly in pencil. A better and simpler
plan is to use a transfer pattern and iron it on to
the garment. Test a little piece of the transfer
on an odd piece of the material to see if the iron
is properly heated, and then be careful to pin
it in a straight line on the garment about a
quarter of an inch from the edge. The scallop-
ing stitch is made in the same way as the blanket
stitch, and should be worked with flax thread,
washing silk, or fine well-twisted wool.
To begin with, run along the two edges of the
scallops with ordinary embroidery cotton to out-
line the pattern. Thread a crewel needle with
the tliread or silk you have chosen ; make five
or six running stitches from right to left in the
first scallop on the loft to fasten in the end and
bring out the needle at the left-hand point.
Hold your tliread or silk down under the left
thumb ; put the needle in just above the top
row of tacking stitches, bring it out just below
the bottom row of tacking stitches with the point
above the thread. Draw the needle and thread
through downwards, and see that the knot rests
exactly at the foot of the scallop. Make the
next stitch close to the first in the same way.
The needle must be held perpendicularly with
the point towards you, and as the bottom part
of the scallop is wider than the top, the stitches
must slant very slightly to the left to begin with,
be straight in the middle, then slant very
slightly to the right. A nice improvement is to
work a spot in the centre of each scallop (fig. 22).
This pattern can be found in transfers, or it is
easy to mark a dot above each scallop and make
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
399
it the centre of a tiny ring. These spots are
worked in what is called satin stitch, sewing
across in straight stitches. Commence with a
small stitch at the side, increase towards the
Fig. 22.
middle, and then decrease to the end. Slip the
needle at the back through the stitches, make
a very small back-stitch and cut off.
Another way of working a narrow scallop is
to keep the top of the stitches in a straight Hne,
as in fig. 23, the length of the stitches being
graduated from very short at the corners to wide
Fig. 23,
in the middle. All the stitches should lie verti-
cally. If the scallop is wished thicker it may
be padded before the embroidery is commenced.
Make several chain stitches along the centre of
them, a single one at the ends and two or three
longer ones in the centre.
Hem-stitching. - Hem-stitching is used in
many cases instead of the ordinary hemming ;
it makes a very pretty trimming and is easily
learnt. It can be done on any material from
which the threads are easily drawn. Pocket-
handkerchiefs, sheets, tea-cloths, &c., are all
much prettier when finished with a hem-stitched
edge. The width of the hem varies according
to taste and the nature of the article being
worked upon.
Before beginning to hem-stitch see that the
edges of the material are perfectly straight.
When you have decided upon the width of the
hem, measure double that \Adth. from the edge of
the material, plus a Uttle more for turning in, and
draw out four threads as explained for stitching
(pp. 390-91). When the threads are drawn, lay
the hem very carefully and tack it exactly where
the first thread has been drawn out. In a
square article tack down the two opposite sides
first, then the other two sides.
A hem-stitch can be worked either from the
right or from the left-hand end of the hem. If
you begin at the right-hand end, insert the
needle under the fold and take two threads of
Fig. 24.
the material and shp the end of the cotton well
under the fold. Hold the needle in a horizontal
position, take up four of the loose tlireads on it,
and draw the cotton through. Then put the
needle again into the fold two threads up, holding
it slantingly, the point towards the left (fig. 25).
Again hold the needle horizontally, take four
threads, and so on.
Be careful to draw the cotton rather tightly
when holding the four threads so as to draw
them well together ; also do not pass over any
loose threads.
Be careful at the corners where the loose
threads are double to take eight threads on the
needle, i.e. four on the wrong and four on the
right side, and draw them well in so that the
stitches do not appear larger. Seam the edge,
and shp the needle tlirough in position to begin
the next hem.
When hem-stitching is worked from left to
right bring out the needle and cotton in the fold
Fig. 25.
two threads up, then hold the needle horizont-
ally and take up four of the loose threads to-
wards the right. Hold the cotton under the left
thumb, bring the needle back, and insert it in the
space of open threads and bring it through two
400
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
threads of the fold, holding it vertically, the
point up, and so on {fig. 24). If there are more
than four tlireads drawn, a second row of hem-
stitching may be worked at the other side of the
open space by turning the work upside down
(fig. 25).
FASTENINGS
To Sew on Buttons. - Pearl buttons are much
prettier for underlinen, but unfortunately they
cannot bear the pressure of the mangle or
wringer and are generally crushed under the
weight of the machine. It is better, therefore,
to sew linen buttons on all articles that undergo
frequent wasliing. Linen buttons should be of
the best quality or they will soon be crushed
out of shape.
Before sewiiig on any kind of button make a
back-stitch on the right side of the garment to
secure the cotton, as a knot is not permissible.
Buttons should alwaj^s be sewn on double
material, so, if necessary, strengthen the place
where the button has to come with a piece of
tape on the wrong side, or a Uttle square of the
same material neatly felled on the wrong side.
It is a mistake to take very thick cotton for
sewing on buttons, as it makes the beginnings
љ ў @
Pearl Buttons.
and fastenings off untidy, and the middle of the
button too bulky.
If the button has two holes in it slip the
needle in one of these, take the stitches through
from hole to hole and through the thickness of
the garment four to six times, then slip the
needle between the garment and the button
close to the middle, and " stem " the button, i.e.
wind the cotton round and round four or five
times, slip the needle to the back, make one or
two back-stitches, slip the needle through half
an inch of the thickness, and cut the cotton
close.
Buttons with four holes can be eewn in dif-
ferent ways, as shown in the above diagram.
Linen buttons without holes can also be sewn
on in a variety of styles as shown below.
(1) By working stitches in a small circle. In
order to get a perfect circle, the centre of the
@љ@
Linen Buttons.
button may be marked with the hollow end of a
small key or anything that will serve ^he pur-
pose. Rick round the circle with a needle to
mark the place of the stitches, then sew round
with small even stitches. The circle must be
small so that the button-hole can lie very flat over
the button. (2) The circle may have a cross in
the middle. (3) A star can be made in the
middle by working six or eight stitches all
meeting in the centre. (4) Or, again, a hori-
zontal bar of foiu" or five stitches worked over in
button-hole stitch like a loop. The last method
is a very strong and secvu-e way of putting on
a linen button.
It is very important that a button should bo
sewn on exactly in its proper position. If the
exact spot is not otherwise Bnarked, place the
button-hole side of the j.armont very evenly on
the top of the corresponding button side and
stick a pin tlirough the hole. Then slip the
button-hole carefully over the pin, put the pin
in more securely, and sew on the button in the
place indicated.
Button-holes. - It requires groat skill and
attention to make button-holes well. They
should be worked on double material. If the
material is single, strengthen it on the back with
a neatly felled oblong of the same material,
which should not be seen on the right side.
All button-holes are cut in the same way. A
pair of button-hole scissors may be used, although
they are not a necessity. The slit of the button-
hole should be a little longer than the diameter
of the button to allow it to pass through easily.
The best way to cut a button-hole is to make a
crease in the material at the place it is to be
made ; insert the point of the scissors on the
mark and cut very slowly and carefully the
length required. Try to keep by the thread
of the material, and be careful the scissors do
not slip.
Vse coarser cotton for button-holes than
for ordinary sewing. For flannel or woollen
materials use silk twist if possible ; it makes a
strong and pretty stitch.
Button-holes are made with two barred ends
when they are in front of a chemise, night-dress.
Button-holes.
shirt, &c., and with one round end and one
barred at the end of a band for a dress, &c. In
the latter case the round end comes against the
button. Sometimes the holes are made with
two round ends, but this is not so usual.
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
401
To work a button-hole some people begin by
making either a line of small running stitches
round it to prevent the edges from unravelling,
or making one or two long stitches the length
of the button-hole and working over these, but
a little experience in button-hole making will
render this preparation unnecessary. Sufficient
cotton must be taken to work from end to end,
as there must be no join in the sides of a button-
hole. The cotton may be joined at a barred end
but not at a round one.
To begin with, slip the needle between the
two thicknesses of material, bring it out at the
left-hand end of the button-hole four threads
down from the cut edge. Draw the cotton
through, leaving an end of an inch which can be
caught in with the stitches. Work from left
to right. Hold the opening of the button-hole
over the left forefinger, insert the needle at the
back and bring it half-way through to the front
and through the same hole as before. With the
thumb and forefinger of your right hand bring
the double cotton from the eye of the needle,
and pass it under the point from left to right ;
draw the needle out, pull the cotton upwards
away from you, and tighten the little knot or
loop which must lie exactly on the cut edge.
This forms what is called a purl edge. Work
the next stitch one or two threads to the right
and again four threads down, bring the thread
over the needle and repeat until you have
reached the end of the hole. To make a barred
end put the needle in at the bottom of the last
side stitch and " strand " the ends, i.e. put
two or three threads of cotton across to make
the foundation of the bar. As the button-hole
stitches are made four threads deep, you have
eight threads on the two sides, plus one in the
middle (the fifth) corresponding to the slit of
the button-hole. The bar consists then of nine
button-hole stitches, worked with the knots
meeting those of the sides. These nine button-
hole stitches must be worked through the two
thicknesses of material like the side stitches.
Then turn the work the opposite way, work the
second side like the first, and, if necessary, make
a bar at the other end.
To finish off insert the needle at the top in
the hole of the last stitch ; draw the cotton
through to the wrong side, weave along the
button-hole stitches, and cut the end close to the
work.
To make a round end the stitches must be
made in a semicircle close together, and radiat-
ing like the spokes of a wheel.
To Mend a Button-hole. - Cut off very carefully
all that is left of the knots in the centre ; draw
out any little threads that come out easily
without uru-avelling the material more than is
necessary. If many threads come out overcast
the button-hole with fine cotton, then work it
all over again with the same cotton or silk as was
first used. As a rule, it k better to remake the
barred ends ; the general appearance of the
button-hole will be neater.
Hooks and Eyes can be attached to garments
in different ways ; the most essential point is
to put them on very neatly and securely. The
positions will vary according to the make and
fashion of the dress ; the best way of sewing
them on is as follows : - Use button-hole twist
or cotton to match the colour of the material.
Find the position of the hook and make a
small stitch where it has to be put. Hold
the hook in position with your left thumb and
work round the two rings and through the
material with close blanket stitches and then
make several seaming stitches over the stem.
Finish off with a back-stitch close to the hook,
sUp the needle through the material without
showing it on the right side, and cut the cotton
off close.
To sew on the eye mark its position exactly
opposite the hook. Begin in the same way, and
work round the two rings with blanket stitches,
taking the stitches through the material. When
both rings are covered and fastened on the
material, blanket stitch the eye itself without
going through the material.
The object of so covering the hook and eye
with blanket stitches is to make them look neat
and also to prevent them from coming un-
fastened so easily.
When the rings of the hooks and eyes are to
be covered with Uning or other material, it is
Fig. 26.
riG. 27.
unnecessary to work them round with stitches.
In this case it suffices to fasten them on very
securely by making four or five stitches round
each ring and two or three along the stem as in
fig. 26. For the eye, make about four or five
stitches at the foot of each ring, one where the
two rings join and two or three at the sides.
Finish off as before.
Tlie hook is sometimes put with the tongue
against the material and the back uppermost, as
this is supposed to make a more secure fastening.
Work two or three close seam stitches at the
foot of each ring, two or three where the rings
are joined together, and fasten off as before
(fig. 28).
Little round rings are sometimes used instead
of eyes. These should be fastened to the
garment with four or five blanket stitches taken
through the material, and then the rest of the
ring is covered with blanket stitches.
Patent hooks are provided with little holes.
Sew them on by making three or four stitches
in each hole through at least two thicknesses of
the material. Then tlu-ee or four stitches quite
2c
402
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
at tlie point round the back of the thinnest part
of the hook. Patent ej'ea are se^m on vrith
three or four stitches taken from ring to ring
Fig. 28.
Fig. 29.
and tlirough at least two thicknesses of material
(fig. 29).
Eyelet Holes are used as outlets for a draw-
string in an under-garment, in the neck of a
pinafore, or in the neck and sleeves of infants'
garments, &c. They are also used in dress-
making instead of eyes, in which case they should
be worked in silk, or, preferably, twist the colour
of the material. Eyelets made as an outlet for
a string in the neck of a garment should be made
an inch apart in front of the garment if the neck
is round. If divided in front or at the back,
one eyelet should be made on the upper side of
the garment half an inch from the left-side edge
through the single material only ; the other
eyelet should be made on the wrong side of the
garment half an inch from the right-side edge
and through the single material only. Or,
the string may be allowed to come out at the
right-hand side, tlirough the edge of the hem
or the casing, when only the one eyelet hole will
be required. \Vhen the place of the eyelet hole
has been determined, pierce a hole with a stil-
etto or with the end of a small pair of scissors.
Eyelet Hole.
Do this through one or two thicknesseo accord-
ing to the purpose of the eyelet holes. Slip tho
needle with cotton or silk under the first thick-
ness of material, and hide the end of the latter
by pushing it in with the point of the needle.
Then work from left to right over the raw edges
of the hole with very neat and close overcasting
stitches about four threads deep. When you
have worked all round, run the needle and cotton
through the stitches at the back and cut off
close to the work. Button-hole stitches can be
made instead of overcasting stitches, the Icnots
or loops being brought to the inside edge of the
eyelet.
A Loop can be made in conjunction with a
hook instead of an eye, or with a button instead
of a button-hole. When you have found the
Loop.
place of the loop, pass the needle and cotton or
silk througli the double material, work about
four stitclies or strands about one-quarter of
an inch long, then bind the strands together,
working from left to right with close blanket
stitches over the cotton or silk only. When
the loop is intended for a button, it is generally
put at the edge of the garment. Make the
strands loose enough to receive the button ; on
no account must they be too long.
TAPES, BINDING, ETC.
Tapes. - Tapes are made in both cotton or
hnen, the hnon being stronger than the cotton.
They are to be had in various widths, and the
size chosen depends upon the purpose for which
the tape is to be used. Tapes are used as strings
on aprons, cliildi-en's pinafores, and various
under-garments, &c., as loops for hanging towels,
kitchen cloths, &c., and also for strengthening
pm"poses.
Strings. - ^Theso must be sewn on perfectly
flat. Turn down about one-eighth of an inch at
one end of the string and make a second fold as
far from the first as the tape is wide, but turned
the other way. This second fold is to mark a
little square where the stitches should be worked
on the tape. Place the string on the edge of
the wrong side of the material with the narrow
fold downwards, and the second crease just
meeting the edge of the material. Pin the
string in position, fold it back from the edge
of the material and on a level with it. Hold
the string and material together very securely
between your left thumb and forefinger, and
seam the tape on to the material with very small
stitclies. Then turn back the string and fell
neatly the three other sides on to the material.
If the material is double, the stitches should not
show through.
Tlie free ends of strings should have a neat
one-eighth inch hem on the wrong side, or the
end can be made neat with blanket stitches
taken rather deeply to prevent the tape from
unravelling.
Another way of sewing on a string to a hemmed
end is to place the narrow fold of the string
two threads above the hem and work two neat
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
403
rows of stitching on the right side of the
material, one just above the hemming tlirough
the edge of the tape, and another at the edge
of the hem through the hem and the tape.
Fell the selvedge sides of the string without
showing the stitches through on the right side.
When tapes are sewn at the edge of a hem,
the first fold can be inserted under the hem in
its proper place and tacked along the hem. The
two selvedge sides of the string should be felled,
and the stitching on the fourth side may be
worked either on the edge of the hem on the right
side, or further down if the hem is deep and if
the edge is required to overlap the other side.
Loops. - To make a loop, measure the length
of tape required and fold it in two. Turn in the
raw edges and put one end in its place, either at
the edge of the hem or to make a square. Fell
round thjee sides (the two selvedges of the tape
and the foldod end), but do not finish off. Place
the other end of the loop on the right side of the
material and slip the needle through and fell
three sides of the tape on the right side exactly
on top of the stitches on the wrong side. Make
a row of stitching through both tapes just above
the edge of the material and finish off (fig. 30).
Another way is to sew the loop on the wrong
side of the material. Fold the tape in two,
^
Ij
Fia. 30.
Fig. 31.
crease well, and open it again. Place the two
ends side by side as in fig. 31, so as to form
a three-cornered point. Prepare and sew the
loops as before, either inserting them under the
hem or felling them above. Notice that as the
ends of the tape He side by side you must sew
them together when you have reached the
middle, cross neatly under these stitches when
you have come to the top and go on with the
felling. Stilch or seam both
tapes at the edge of the
material.
If the loop is sewn at the
corner of a cloth the ends aro
turned down once only, and
the loop placed so that the
edge of the turning down
should m.eet the hem (fig. 32).
The point of the corner must
be exactly at the joining of the
two loops. Fell and seam the loop as before.
Another method for a corner loop is to double
A
Fig. 32.
the tape obliquely and place the ends so that
they overlap each other. Place the raw edges
uppermost, meeting the edge of the cloth and
forming the basis of a triangle. Stitch firmly
Fig. 33.
Fig. 34.
across both, then turn over and stitch round
the corner (figs. 33 and 34).
Strengthening Tapes are used at the bottom
of front openings of chemises and night-dresses,
at the wrist openings of sleeves, and the hip
openings of children's knickers, &c., to prevent
them from getting torn. The strength and
width will depend upon the garment and material
on which it has to be sewn. To put on a
strengthening tape at the foot of the opening of
a chemise or night-dress cut a piece of tape one
to one and a half inches long, and make a fold
at the two raw ends. Place this at the bottom
of the opening on the wrong side of the garment
with the folds facing the material. Fell it
neatly along the four sides without showing the
stitches on the right side. For the wrist opening
of a shirt or for children's knickers turn down
a fold at the end of the tape, but on different
sides. Fold the tape obhquely in the middle ;
this will bring the narrow folds on the same
side. Place the tape on the wrong side of the
garment, the folds facing the material, -^rith the
obUque fold exactly over the end of the opening.
Pin in position, then tack, being very careful
to keep the end folds on the thread of the
material. Hem all round the edges of the tape.
Fig. 35.
and at the edge of the opening work a few
button-hole stitches for the sake of strength.
If the material is double be very careful not to
show the stitches on the right side (fig. 35).
Binding. - Binding is a process used to
strengthen the edges of material by sewing a
covering over them. Tliis covering may consist
404
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
of a strip of the material, or of tape, braid,
ribbon, or a special binding. Flannel garments
are frequently bound at the edges instead of
being hemmed, tape, ribbon or Prussian binding
being used. In tailoring the seams of coats and
jackets are very often covered with a binding.
In dressmaking, too, the raw edges of the
material are often finislied with Prussian binding
or ribbon instead of being overcast. Binding
can also be used instead of overcasting to
strengthen the eurmholes of sliirts, blouses,
night-dresses, and such-like, when a piece of
thin material cut on the cross shovJd be used.
To sew on braid or ribbon binding fold it
lengthways, crease it well along the middle,
lay it over the edge of the material to be bound,
one half to the right side and one half to the
wrong, and tack it carefully in position with a
needle and cotton. Hem first the right side,
and then the wrong side. Some people can
manage to hem only once on the right side
and through the three thicknesses, but it is
not to be recommended, sis it is very difficult
to make the stitches neat and to bring them
through regularly. This can, however, be
done with a sewing machine. To bind with
the same material as the garment, cut and
prepare the strips as for piping (see p. 394).
The strips of material may be cut on the straight
to bind a part that is on the straight also, but
never to bind a part that is on the cross or
slanting in the least, as it would be sxire to
pucker. They should be from a half to one inch
in width, according to the thickness of the
material to be covered. Fold them lengthways
like the braid and make a crease ; then for the
first part, proceed as for putting on a false hem
(see p. 393). Place the edge of the binding
against the edge of the material on the right
side and run it along about a quarter of an inch
from the edge. Then turn it upwards, and
flatten the seam well ; fold it down at the crease,
and fell it neatly on the wrong side. ^Vhen
there is a comer to bind round, make a small
pleat in the binding on each side of the material
at right angles with it ; hem the fold of the
binding in a neat diagonal line going from the
inside angle of the hem to the outside angle of
the material ; slip the needle under the binding
back to the hem, and continue hemming. Do
the same at all the comers and on both sides of
the work.
To Braid a Skirt. - Before using skirt braid
it is a good precaution to soak it in cold water
and allow it to shrink. This often prevents the
foot of the skirt from puckering. It you do not
care to do this, bo careful to leave the braid
looser than the material, as it is sure to draw in
when moistened by rain or the dampness of the
roads. If the ordinary flat braid is being used,
fold it double and run or hem it on the wrong
side of the skirt, placing it so that it shows
below the edge of the skirt and so serves as a
protection to the material. The stitches should
be taken through both selvedges of the braid
and one thickness of the material, but should
not show on the right side. Or, instead of
doubling the braid, it may be sewn singly and
flat on the skirt, a small edge of one selvedge
being allowed to show below the foot of the
skirt. In this case two rows of sewing will
be necessary - a row of hemming along the
lower selvedge and a row of running worked
through the braid and one thickness of the
material close to the edge of the skirt. None
of the stitches must be allowed to show on the
right side. Brush braids must always be sewn
on by the latter method.
PLEATING
To pleat material is to make it lie in flat,
smooth folds, more or less deep according to the
fulness required.
Pleating is extensively used in dressmaking
at the top of skirts and in the arranging of frills
and flounces. It is also used at the top of petti-
coats, aprons, overalls, children's frocks, &c. It
is more suitable than gathering for thick material
as it is less bulky.
Pleats like tucks should be arranged on the
right side of the material and they must be very
accurately measured. They are generally held
in position by a band or yoke, or by a row of
stitching as in a frill or flounce.
There are two kinds of pleating : - Kilt-
pleating and box-pleating.
Kilt-Pleating. - For this kind of pleating allow
material twice or three times the length of the
band or piece of material to which it is to be
attached.
When pleating for a flounce, the folds should
all lie in one direction and be of equal size.
Eilt- Pleating.
A space may be left between the pleats if
there is not sufficient fulness to allow of their
being close together, but if, on the other hand,
there is ample material, it may be necessary
to make them overlap slightly. Tlie size of
the pleat will also depend upon the amount of
material at disposal and the fulness required.
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
405
When once the size, &c., has been carefully
gauged it is a good plan to make a measure by
notching a card as in tuck-making, and to use
that as a guide for the other pleats and spaces
between them.
Tack the pleats as they are made about one-
quarter of an inch from the upper edge, or if
there are only a few they may be held in position
with pins. Be careful to keep the material lying
straight, and see that the three edges at the top
are perfectly level.
In the making up of a garment pleats are
often made to lie in opposite directions. They
should always lie in the direction in which most
fulness is needed, generally away from the
front. Here, again, careful measurement is
necessary in order to make both sides alike.
Sometimes a pleat is stitched down part of its
length so as to make it Me very flat, as in a
kilted skirt.
When the pleats have to be put between the
folds of a band, as on the top of an apron, make
and place the band in the following way : -
Fold in the edges of the band and join the
ends neatly or leave them open as required.
Mark the centre and pin it exactly to the
centre of the garment. Tack it along in position
through the one side, only making the folded
edge of the band he on the top of the tacking
threads of the pleats. Then hem the band to
the material, being particular to take all the
stitches through all the thicknesses of the
pleats.
When the right rAde is finished, turn over and
tack the band down on ohe wrong side exactly
on the top of the hemming stitches already
made. Hem down without letting the stitches
show through to the right side.
Some people prefer to stitch the band. If
this is done by hand, stitch the right side only
instead of hemming it two or three threads
above the folded edge of the band (a thread
might be drawn previously for this stitching),
then hem down on the wrong side as above.
Box-Pleating. - This differs from kilt-pleating
in that each alternate fold is made in a different
direction. The width of the pleats may vary
according to the' purpose for which they are
Box-Pleating.
Or the band may be stitched on by machine
through the two thicknesses at once. Careful
tacking will be required for thi? to prevent the
work being twisted.
H
Double Box- Pleating.
used and the amount of material at disposal, but
each couple must be exactly alike and careful
measurement is again necessary.
Sometimes a double and even a treble box-
pleat is made by laying one or more folds on the
top of each other, first to one side and then to
the other. Each upper fold should be slightly
narrower than the one below it. A double box-
pleat may be used in a very full flounce, when
the pleats may be stitched half an inch from
the top and the edge allowed to rise, the top
being pre%'iously ended with a very narrow hero
or some narrow trimming.
MARKING
In household hnen the marking should be
placed where it is easily seen when the article is
folded, generally in the left-hand corner, unless
it is embroidery, when the letter may be placed in
a more conspicuous position.
Body linen is marked very much according
to fasliion and the style of the garment. If it
is done by embroidery it should be placed where
it can be seen on the front below the opening or
trimming, or near the left shoulder, but if the
marking is done in ink or with Cash's lettering,
it should be in a less conspicuous spot, such as
the inside of a band or the wrong side of a hem.
Stockings should be meirked on the inside of
the hem at the top or below the hem on the right
side if done by hand.
There are several different ways of marking,
as for instance : -
(1) IMarking with ink.
(2) Marking with Cash's or other embroidered
imtials, monograms and names, or
(3) Marking by hand with a needle and
tliread.
(1) Marking with Ink is very suitable for
collars and cuffs, also where there are large
supplies of household linen, but it sliould not
be employed for dainty ai-ticles (see p. 265).
406
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
(2) Marking with Cash's Lettering.- These can
now bo bought in many cUfferent designs and
colouring, and special names can bo ordered at
so much per dozen (see p. 265). To sow them
on, turn in the raw edges very evenly, tack m
position, and then hem round very neatly.
Letters and monograms embroidered on fine
cambric or muslin can also be bought separately.
The price will vary according to the quality and
design. Some of them are most elaborate and
very decorative, and, if neatly placed, will have
day there does not seem to be so much time
for work of tliis kind, and once the stitch is
learnt the letters themselves can very easily bo
copied from a printed design (see illustration).
Cross stitch consists of two oblique stitches
placed one on the top of the other and crossed in
the middle (fig. 36). It is most easily worked on
a material in which the threads can be counted.
If from the nature of the texture this is im-
possible, a piece of canvas should be tacked
evenly on the top of the material where the
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Cross-stitch Letters and Figures.
the appearance of being embroidered on the
material itself.
They should either bo hemmed on with very
fine, almost invisible stitches, or button-holod
round with fine sowing cotton.
(3) Marking by Hand.- For this many different
stitches can be used from simple to very ela-
borate ones.
Cross Stitch is one of the simplest. Many
years ago it was the general custom to mark
personal linen, clothes, and napcry with cross
stitch; and we have all seen most elaborate
canvas samplers with letters of the alphabet,
figures, and the quaintest ornaments and
mottoes, worked by our mothers and grand-
mothers when they were girls. In the present
marking is required and the stitches worked
over that. The canvas must bo more or less
fine, according to the kind of material, and
sufficiently largo to take in all the letters.
Blankets, for instance, would require rather a
coarse canvas in order to make tho letters look
large and handsome, while table-linen would
look bettor with a finer lettering. The tlireads
of tho canvas must bo drawn out when the work
is finished. Care must be taken when sewing
that none of the stitches are taken through the
threads of tho canvas, but only through the
holes. An expert sewer might be able to mark
on any material without the aid of the canvas
for a guide, but it is not so easy for an amateur.
Tho stitches are generally made over two
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
407
threads of the material, and care must be
taken that all the stitches lie in the same
direction. If larger letters are required the
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Fig. 36.
stitches must be worked over three or fovir
threads accordingly.
To fasten off pass the needle straight through
to the back and weave it tlirough about half-a-
dozen stitches. The back of the work must be
kept as tidy-looking as possible.
Ingrain cotton (blue or red) or wliite em-
broidery cotton is the best to use for marking
cotton or linen articles and a pretty coloured
wool for marking blankets.
The Leviathan Stitch. - This is a httle more
elaborate than the simple cross stitch, as it has
the addition of a vertical cross in the middle
(fig. 37). It is most suitable for large letters
or for initials.
The Eyelet Stitch. - This is another fancy
stitch also used for a large style of marking. It
Fig. 37.
Fig. 88.
consists of eight stitches worked over two or
three threads all radiating from one central
hole (fig. 38).
Back Stitch and Chain Stitch are also very useful
for marking, especially such articles as kitchen
towels, ordinary sheets, &c., and anything that
requires a whole word and several figures. Tlie
lettering can first be traced in pencil and then
worked over in one or the other stitch.
Chain stitch is worked like feather or coral
stitch (see p. 397), only it is done on a single
line following a pattern (fig. 39). Bring out
the needle at the beginning of the letter, and
hold the cotton down with your left thumb.
Put in the needlo whero it came out and bring
it along the pattern the length of two or three
tlireads ; be very careful to bring it out above
the cotton. Put the needle in again where it
Fig. 39
came out last, bring it out the same length as
before above the cotton, and so on, following the
traced hne so as to form the letter required.
Back-stitch may be used in the same way.
Tlaese stitches are very useful for marking
twill or any material where the threads cannot
be counted.
MENDING
Mending, like sewing, is an art and one to which
no woman should be a stranger. Though it is
often considered a thankless task to have to
repair an old garment damaged by accident or
by use, it is none the less a necessary one, and
a good piece of mending should be as worthy
of exhibition as a prettily made new garment.
The ability to mend skilfully and neatly is a
gift every woman should covet.
A good mender means a good sewer and one
who possesses plenty of common sense. Althovigh
numerous directions and rules can be given for
the various methods of patcliing and darning,
it requires some knowledge and skill to apply
these - to know when it is better to put in a
patch, or when a darn would be preferable;
also how to make a darn that will be durable
and at the same time not conspicuous, and,
finally, to get the longest life possible out of each
article that comes under our care.
As soon as a girl is old enough she ought to
be taught to do her own mending and sometimes
a httle of the household mending as well. This
more than anjiihing else will teach her to be
neat and orderly and to be careful with her
clothes.
All holes and rents should be mended before
the clothes are sent to the washing, and if it is
not convenient to do this thoroughly they should
at least be drawn together with needlo and
cotton to prevent the friction of washing mak-
ing them worse. Table-linen must always be
mended before washing, as mending it after-
408
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
wards would crush and spoil its appearance.
The same applies to anything that is starched.
Wlien such tilings as buttons and tapes are
wanting it is best to sew these on after washing.
A special supply of mending materials should
be kept in a box in the linen cupboard, in a
drawer, or in any other convenient place. It
might contain pieces of Unen, pieces of cotton,
damask, flannel, woven material, &c., and any
special material similar to the garments or house-
hold linen in use. It is a good precaution when
bu}nng clothes, especially clothes for growing
children, to getwa httle extra material for altering
and mending purposes.
Tliere should also be a large portable mend-
ing-basket which would have to be prepared
each week by the one who has the rosponsibiUty
of the household mending. It should contain
only the articles to be mended and the necessary
materials for mending taken from the general
supply.
A deirning bag for the household would also
be found a convenience. It might contain all
the stockings requiring mending and be pro-
vided with a pocket to contain the special darn-
ing wool required.
DARNING
Stockings
To Mend Stockings. - Stockings should be
mended very carefully in order to make them
last as long as possible. There are different
ways of mending them, and the style adopted
must depend upon the degree of wear and the
texture and thickness of the material.
The mending must be done in wool, cotton, or
silk, according to the kind of stockings, and it
must match them exactly in colour. The thick-
ness of thread to be used will depend upon the
land of mending to be done. For strengthening
purposes it is better to take it rather thinner
than the thread of the stocking itself, but when
there is a hole it may bo of the same thickness.
Mending is usually done on the wrong side of
stockings, except in cases where the feet are very
tender, when it is bettor to darn them (^n the
right side.
Strengthening a Thin Place. - If there is a worn
or thin place in a stocking without any actual
hole, it should bo strengtlioned to prevent it
wearing further. Turn the stocking on the
wrong side and stretch the piece to be darned
over the loft hand, over a piece of smooth card-
board, or over a darner or wooden egg sold for
the purpose. The stocking must not be stretched
too tightly or the darn will have a bulged-out
appeturance when finished.
Commence about an inch to the right of the
worn piece, and insert the neetlle with the point
pointing upwards and the thumb on the top.
Take up one loop or thread and miss one alter-
nately until you have aa many stitches as you
can hold on the needle. Then draw the noodle
through, leaving an inch of thread at the end.
Continue in this way until you have reached the
top of the weak place. Now
turn your hand and hold the
needle vertically with the point
turned downwards this time and
the thumb underneath. Work
downwards, taking up the
stitches which were missed in
the first row and missing those
wliich were taken up. A loop
of the thread must be left at
the end of each row to prevent
the work dragging. For the
first four or five rows make each row a stitch
longer than the preceding one, then make the
rows the same length until the thin place ia
covered, when the rows may be decreased in
length to correspond with the other side. This
prevents all the strain coming upon one thread
of the woven material. If a new tliread is
required take it at the beginning of a row.
Leave one inch ends while you are working.
iDanier.
-O'.'i'.'ln
(1 I I I I I I'
I'll
I I 1 1 I in
•'•'•'•I'"
Fig. 40.
and when the darn is finished these may be cut
off to quarter of an inch (fig. 40).
Note. - If the material is fine, as in n woven
stocking, tliree or four threads or their equivalent
can be missed and taken up alternately instead
of one.
Strengthening New Stockings. - Some people
darn over the heels of stockings when they are
new in order to make them last longer. This
is especially necessary in the case of children's
stockings and boys' stockings in particular -
when the knees might also be strengthened with
advantage.
This strengthening dam should be done with
wool a little thinner than that of the stockings.
Use a long thin needle. Run lengthways over
the stocking web, taking up one threeid and
leaving three. In the next row turn and take
up the centre thread of those you missed and
miss the three next and so on, always taking one
and missing tlu-ee alternately throughout the
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
409
whole process. Leave a loop at the end of each
row. Work pretty loosely so that the stocking
does not pucker.
Note. - In fine stockings take up and leave
more threads in proportion.
To Darn a Hole - Ordinary Method. - First
prepare the hole. If it is a fine webbed stocking,
pick or cut away carefully any rough frayed-out
pieces, but not more than is necessary, as the
smooth threads that are left help to strengthen
the darn. With a coarser make or hand-knitted
stocking pick out carefully the loose ends of
wool and weave the longer ones in with a darning
needle.
Turn the stocking on the wrong side and
stretch the hole over the left hand or over a
stocking-darner. A wooden or china egg is
useful if the hole is in the toe or the heel of the
stocking, but elsewhere it is inclined to make
the darn b\ilge out.
A considerable portion of the material round
the edge of the hole should be darned in order to
strengthen it, so commence at. the right-hand
side a little distance from the edge of the hole.
Some prefer to commence at the left-hand
side and to darn from left to right, but this is a
matter of taste. Commence in the same way
and make the same stitch as for the strengthen-
ing darn, increasing the length of the rows vmtil
the hole is reached, when they may be all alike.
The hole itself must be covered with straight
strands of the thread and the darning stitches
extended a little way above and below. Then
continue the strengthening; darn beyond the
hole as on the first sidj. Be sure to leave loops
of the thread at the end of each row, other-
wise when the stocking is washed the darn will
Fig. 41.
shrink and pucker. These first rows are called
the warp rows, as they run the lengthways of
the stocking.
Turn tlie work sideways so that the top and
bottom of the hole become the sides and begin
what is called the weft rows, those which run
across the thread of the material. Commence
at the lower right-hand corner of the darn and
at the same distance from the edge of the hole
as the warp rows were commenced.
Point the needle upwards and take up and
miss alternately the stitches of the waxp rows
and continue thus until the other side of the
darn is reached. When crossing the hole, the
darn should form a lattice -work of threads and
the darning must be carried as far to the right of
the hole as it was to the left, and the rows
decreased in length in a similar manner.
If the stockings are very fine two or three
threads may be missed and taken up instead
of one, only be very careful to sUp the needle
through any loose stitch at the top or at the
bottom of the hole.
These darns may be made square if preferred,
but it is not such a good plan, as the whole strain
rests on one thread of the material (fig. 41).
If the hole is large it is a good plan to lace it
across with a few threads of fine cotton or wool
before commencing the darn. This will hold it
together and keep it in shape.
A " Jacob's Ladder." - So called when a stitch
breaks and drops down row after row until a
ladder of threads is formed. This is easily
mended if taken in time, but it rapidly extends
and becomes very unsightly if neglected. If it
occurs in a fine stocking, turn it on the wrong
side and darn up and down the length of the
material over the weak place and a little distance
to each side. Be careful to catch up the dropped
stitch or stitches and thus prevent them from
running down further. Care, too, must be taken
not to drag the threads, and loops must be left
at the ends of the rows.
In hand or machine-knitted stockings of a
coarser make the dropped stitch may often be
taken up with a crochet hook and worked up
each strand of wool, or steps of the ladder, as it
were, in turn. The crochet hook is inserted in
the bottom loop and the first bar is drawn through
it, and so on with all the bars in tiu-n. When at
the top, fasten off securely with a darning
needle. If several loops have run down, pick
up each one in turn from right to left.
New Pieces in Stockings. - A good knitter will
cut the worn-out heels and toes and even the
whole feet from hand-knit stockings and knit
new ones in. She can even knit pieces on the
legs and seam them neatly in place.
In worn stockings, too, a good mender will be
able to put patches cut from another stocking
that is otherwise worn out. To do this, cut
the sides of the hole even to a thread and pick
out the ends of tliread that are left. Then
ravel out the top and bottom of the space until
you have a row of loops strong enough to support
a join. Next take a needle and fine soft cotton
the colour of the stocking, and button-hole the
sides of the hole very closely. Now cut a piece
of webbing for the patch, making it quite even
with the thread and a little longer than the hole
into which it is to be fitted. This extra length
allows for any drawing up in the fixing, and, if
superfluous, can easily be unravelled to fit the
410
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
space at the last. Neatly button-holo the sides
of the patch \vith the same cotton as was used
for the stocking, and then graft it in at the top
(Grafting, see below). Now turn the stocking on
the wrong side and overseani the edges together
by the upper edges of the button-hole stitch.
Turn the stocking again to the right side, ravel
out the end of the patch until it fits the hole
exactly and graft it in. Care must be taken to
make the seams very soft and flat.
SPECIAL DARNING
Swiss Darning. - This special darning can only
be done on articles of stocking-web tissue, either
hand-knitted or woven - such as boys' stockings,
golfing stockings, jerseys, &c. It is another
method of thickening and strengthening any
part that is thin. The stitch is worked on the
right side of the material and, when well done,
the direction of the stitches of the material
is so carefully followed that the darn itself is
scarcely seen. The wool used must be of
exactly the same texture and colovir as the
article to be mended.
The piece to be mended should be lightly
tacked on to a piece of cardboard to keep it in
shape and secure. There must be no straining
of the material.
If the webbing of the material is examined it
will be seen that the stitches slant alternately
upwards and downwards, and that they form
ribs on the right side and loops on the wrong.
The darning stitches must bo worked in hori-
zontal rows from right to left. Commence at
the top right-hand side of the thin piece to be
darned, and bring the needle out from behind
between two of the stitches which slant upwards.
Then insert the needle in a slanting direction
upwards, pass it horizontally under the rib to
the left and draw it out. Put it in again at the
place where the first stitch was started, pass it
under the next rib as before, and repeat in turn
to the other end of the thin place. Now invert
the work and make another row in the same way,
covering the stitches that slant downwards tliis
time, and repeat this working backwards and
forwards until you have darned as much as is
necessary. This is not a difficult kind of darning,
and at the same time it is very satisfactory and
effective.
Grafting. - Grafting is very useful in repairing
socks, stockings, vests, Jerseys, and similar gar-
ments of a material that is very regularly and
not too finely woven. It is a very simple and
neat method of fixing new feet or tops on
children's stockings.
Ravel out the wool until the loops of both
edges to be joined are quite whole and distinct.
Then take a needle and wool exactly the same
as that of the garment, match the loops on the
right-hand side of the pieces to be joined and
make a fastening. Lay the work over the
fingers as for hemming, taking care that the
loops of the two edges are exactly opposite each
other. Insert the needle horizontally tlirough
two loops of the upper edge and draw out the
tliread. Next insert it one loop back on the
under edge and bring it out one loop forward.
Continue thus, taking alternately two loops at
the top and two at the bottom until the end
of the join is reached. If tliis is well done the
seam should be almost invisible.
Stocking- Web Tissue. - Like Swiss darning,
this is used for mending articles of thick stock-
ing-web tissue either hand-knit or woven. It
is really the weaving in of a new piece to the
material to fill up a hole, and is preferable to
the ordinary darn, as it is less noticeable.
Tlie same stitch is used as in Swiss darning,
only in the stocking-web darn a foundation com-
posed of strands of cotton must be made on
which to work.
This kind of darn is always worked on the
right side of the material, and wool exactly the
same as that of the garment must be used.
First prepare the hole by unravelling the
loose ends of wool until there is an even row of
loops top and bottom. Weave in the longer ends
with a darning needle on the wrong side. Turn
back the worn edges on tlie sides, leaving half a
rib on each side of the hole at the top. Then
tack a piece of cardboard at the back of the
hole and under the place to be darned. Be
careful neither to over-stretch nor contract the
hole, but to keep it lying perfectly flat. The
webbing, too, must be perfectly vertical so that
the corresponding loops at the top and bottom
of the hole are exactly opposite each other.
When the hole is arranged take a needle and
coloured sewing cotton and connect the loops
top and bottom, as in fig. 42, and in the following
Fro. 42.
manner : - ^Make a knot and pass the needle
tlirough the card and first loop at the bottom
right-hand corner of the hole. Pass it through
the half and the next loop at the top, then back
through first loop at the bottom, taking the next
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
411
one also on the needle. Now pass it tlirough
the two next loops at the top, and continue
in this way, taking alternate loops top and
bottom until the loops are all picked up. Then
pass the needle through the half loop at the edge
of the hole and the card and fasten off.
Care must be taken to make the strands just
the size of the hole. The strands will appear
as a double row of threads, and the Swiss darn
is worked on these.
Take a needle with the darning wool, slip it
under the work and fasten it on at the right-
hand bottom corner about two or three stitches
from the edge of the hole. Swiss darn over
these two or three stitches. Then put the needle
tlii'ough the first loop of the hole and draw it
out. Pass it under the two cotton tlireads
coming out of that loop and then back into the
middle of the same loop. Now take up the
next loop to the left and draw the needle out
and repeat until the other side of the hole is
reached (fig. 42). Swiss darn over two or three
stitches in the webbing as on right-hand side.
Next invert the work and work another row in
the same way, and work backwards and forwards
until the hole is filled up (fig. 43). Sometimes it
may be necessary to pusli the stitches into place
with the point of the needle, as they must he
in even horizontal rows. Join the new piece
of webbing just made to the loops at the other
side of the hole by grafting stitches (see p. 410).
When finished, cut and draw out the foundation
threads very carefully and remove the card.
DARNING OF LINEN OR COTTON MATERIAL
Thin Places. - To darn thin places, ravelhngs
of the same material should be used when
practicable. The darn can then be made almost
imperceptible. If not, use cotton or tliread as
similar to the material as possible. Use long
and thin needles for this kind of work.
Turn the work on the wrong side. Take up
and leave one, two, three, c four threads accord-
ing to the thickness of the material. Work
the first set of Unes along the selvedge way of
the material rather close to each other and half
an inch beyond the thin place on all sides.
Alternate the stitches and leave loops as in the
other darns. If the place is very thin, or if
there is a hole in the middle, reverse the work
when the first side is finished and cross it.
When crossing take up the mending cotton only.
Take up one thread and leave one, and so on
FlQ. 44.
(fig. 44). Alternate in the next row : continue
as far as necessary. Finish off as before.
This darn may also be made diamond-shaped
or with a waved edge, which prevents all the
strain coming on one tliread of the material.
Cross-cut Darns. - A cross-cut tear is so called
because it is made across the thread of the
material. It may occur in table-cloths and
doyleys that have been cut witii a knife or in
other linen cut by laiindry machinery.
To mend this kind of hole begin by trimming
off the ragged edges of the cut, then prevent
the cut from opening by drawing it together
on the wrong side with a few stitches. Tliese
must be made rather loosely with very fine
sewing cotton. For darning take ravellings of
the material or proper darning cotton. Measure
half an inch at both ends of the length of the
cut, and make two parallel creases on the
I ! • . I
Fro. 45.
thread of the material. Then make two
creases perpendicular to these and tliis will
give a square holding the cut diagonally in
the middle (fig. 46).
Put in the needle at the comer No. 1 of this
412
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
square and work downwards, taking up two
threads and missing two until you reach tho
corner No. 2. Count the number of stitches
already made and continue in tlio same Uno,
making the same number of stitclies again.
For instance, if you have seven stitches from
1 to 2, make seven stitches beyond, and this
finislies the first Une.
Then count two tlireads to the right and two
upwards and begin the second hne there. All
the lines must laave tho same number of stitches,
and as this row is one stitch shorter at the
bottom it must be one stitch longer at tho top.
Tho stitches must be alternated as in other
darning, and a small loop must be loft at the
ends.
When you reach the slit the stitches of
each row must be taken under it so as to keep
the raw edges on the wrong side. This may
make some of the stitches uneven, but it must
be done as neatly as possible.
When you have reached the corner No. 3, cut
off the darning thread. The darn will be in
the shape of a rhomboid (fig. 45). Turn the work
sidewaj^. Begin again at No. 1, work to 4, and
continue on ; double the number of stitches.
This line and the following must have the same
number of stitches as those of the first rhomboid.
Commence one stitch further up and increase
one each row so as to make a rhomboid as
before.
In working the second rhomboid, when you
reach the square tho stitches should meet those
of the first ro\vs of darning and form neat Uttle
Vs or steps. When the darn is finished, care-
fully remove the tacking stitches.
Unless the tear is quite small it is a good plan
to tewk a piece of ceirdboard at the back before
beginning to darn.
Hedge-Tear Dam. - The hedge-tear darn is
used to mend triangular tears often caused by
the material catching on a nail or hedge.
As in other darns, take ravellings of the
material if possible ; if not, what resembles
the material most in make and shade. Cut off
any loose threads round tho tear and draw the
edges together with very fine sewing cotton.
Begin on the left-hand side about three-eighths
of an inch from the end of tho tear, take
up two threads and leave two, making
stitches above and below the tears. Begin the
second row two threads to the right and
two threads above tho first row, taking up
the threads that have been left and leaving
each two threads corresponding to tho spaces.
All the rows must be exactly tho same length.
Leave one-eighth inch loops as in other dams.
When passing the hole, keep the edges of the
tear on the wrong side as much as possible.
When you have reached the comer of the
tear, continue working to tlio right as much as
half the width of one side of the tear. Cut off
the thread and turn the work sideways so that
tho undarned end of tho tear Ues at the left.
Commence darning at the left and three-eightlis
of an inch away from the end of tho tear on tho
other side. Work towards tho right, making
n.p.p.p.p.no.nnnnn
- 1
bbbi
Fig. 47.
rows exactly the same length, and with the same
number of stitches as in the first piece of darning.
Half-way along the tear you will meet the
stitches of the side already darned, and this
should form a square of Vs or httle steps as in
the cross-cut darn. All the stitches must show
through neatly on the right side (fig. 48).
When finished, remove the tacking stitches.
bUU I I
Fia. 4S.
The weakest part of the tear will now be
strengthened with tho crossed row of stitches.
This darn also may be worked over a piece of
cardboard if it is found easier.
PATCHING
Patches are used to cover holes or a worn or
torn piece of material, and they are a means of
making household goods last much longer than
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
413
they otherwise would do. They are as a rule
preferable to darns as they are less conspicuous.
A good housekeeper will have at hand plenty
of material at different stages of wear for all
patching purposes. The patch should be of
the same strength as the material to be mended :
it is therefore unwise to employ a new piece of
the same material. If a new piece of material
must be used, it sTiould be thinner in texture
than that of the article to be patched. If it is
calico, print, or anything of a stiffish nature, it
should be washed before being used, to make it
softer.
Patches may be of any size and any shape
required, but square and oblong ones are the
most generally used. Circular and triangular
patches are sometimes worked on flannel or
woven material, but, if possible, they should be
avoided unless they can be quite hidden. The
patch must at all times be cut large enough to
well cover the hole or worn part, and a little
extra allowed for turnings.
The chief points to attend to in putting in
a patch are - first, to fix it well, and, secondly,
to make the corners he very flat and without
wrinkles. This once mastered, with care and
perseverance the work is fairly easy as the
stitches are all of the simplest.
The thread of the patch must in all cases lie
with the thread of the material, and the sewing
also must be worked by a thread.
There are several different kinds of calico and
linen patches, i.e. -
(1) Seam and fell patch.
(2) A patch hemm. d on both sides.
(3) A run and fell patch.
(4) A shaped patch.
(1) Seam and Fell Patch. - Cut the patch large
enough to cover the hole and the thin part of
the material surrounding it, plus an extra inch
on each side. Be careful to cut it very evenly
and with the threads running in the same
direction as the material on which it is to be
laid. Commence by turning down a narrow
fold all round the patch on the right side, the
selvedge side first and then the other two.
Mark the fold by the threads of the material and
see that the corners are perfectly straight.
Place the patch on the wrong side of the garment
with the folds facing it ; see that the warp and
woof of both materials lie in the same direction
and that the hole comes in the middle of the
patch. Pin the four corners carefully in position,
then tack and hem round very neatly, beginning
in the middle of one of the sides, and making
a stitch exactly at each corner. When finished
take out the tacking stitches and turn the work
over to the right side. Shp the scissors in the
hole and cut diagonally to within one-third of
an inch of each corner. Cut away the worn-
out part very evenly to a thread, leaving one-
third of an inch of edging all round. Then
turn in the raw edges very evenly with the aid
of a needle, snipping them in the corners to the
depth of one-eighth of an inch to prevent any
puckering. Then tack round and see that all
lies flat and smooth.
Fold back the garment so that the fold and
the patch form a double edge. Overseam very
neatly, beginning with the middle of one of the
sides, and be particular to make a stitch exactly
at each corner. When finished remove the
Fig. 49.
tacking threads and flatten the work well
(fig. 49).
The first side may also be seamed instead of
hemmed.
A patch may be laid on the right side of the
material instead of on the wrong ; this is a
matter of individual choice.
(2) A Patch Hemmed on both Sides is more
quickly made and is often used for old things
where a large patch is necessary. Cut and
prepare the patch as before, and lay it either
on the right or wrong side of the material as is
most convenient. Tack in position and fell
down the first side. Turn over, cut away the
worn pajt, and turn in the edges as in fig. 49.
Fig. 50.
Fell or hem the second side, take out all tacking
threads, and flatten well (fig. 50).
(3) Rmi and Fell Patch. - This patch is best
suited to large holes. It is somewhat more
difficult to arrange than Nos. 1 and 2, but if
neatly done the results are very satisfactory.
Take the article to be patched and outline
the hole with four well-marked creases on the
right side of the material. The creases ought
to be made at least an inch beyond the worn
part on each side and even with the thread of
the material. Cut the patch to a size to corres-
pond exactly to tliis marked space and allow
414
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
a little extra for turnings. Tnrn in the raw
edges on the wrong side, crease them well down,
and open out again. This is merely to make a
mark as a guide for the sewing.
Place one of tlie sides of the patch against the
crease on the fabric - the two right sides to-
gether and the two creases precisely one on the
top of the other. The patch is not placed over
the hole, but lying quite to one side of it. Run
the two pieces together from corner to comer
and exactly along the creases. Then turn the
patch over, allowing it to take its proper position.
Now sew along the second side in the same
way, being most particular about the turning of
the corner so as to avoid puckering. The hole
may be made a little larger if necessary so as
to allow the fingers to be slipped inside. Sew
the other two sides in the same way and then
Fig. 51.
turn the work over. Cut away the worn part
and fell down the edges inside (fig. 51).
(4) A Shaped Patch. - Thisis sometimes required
if a hole occurs near the seam of a garment, as
for instance under the arm of a night-dress or
chemise or in the side of a slip-blouse.
Unpick the seam for about one inch beyond
the length required for the patch. Cut a patch
the size required and tack it carefully in position
and straight to a thread of the material. Hem
or fell the edges which lie on the garment, and
then cut the remainder to the curves of the
seam. Turn the work over, cut away the worn
part and fell neatly. The rest of the patch will
thus become part of the seam in place of the
worn part which has been cut away.
If both sides of the seam of the garment are
worn a similar patch must be put on the other
side. They should, if possible, be exactly alike ;
they will then join more neatly at the seam
(fiR. 52).
Print Patch. - When mending print or any
other material with a marked design the patch
muft be cut so as to match exactly the pattern
of ■ he material. For this reason it is sometimes
necessary to cut tlie patch larger than it need
otherwise bo, and the hole need not always be
in the middle. Sometimes, too, it will be found
better to cut the patch of an uneven shape, as
the stitches will show less if they are not in
straight lines.
Having cut the patch to the best shape
possible, turn down the edges on the wrong
side, to the depth of about one-eighth of an inch,
and place it on the right side of the garment
following the thread of the material and the
lines of the pattern ; put a pin in each corner
and then tack carefully in position.
Then fold back the material from the patch
so that the edge of the material and the edge of
the patch form a double edge, and overseam
round very neatly, holding the patch nearest
you. Commence at the centre of one of the
sides and be particular to make a stitch exactly
in the corners. Fasten off, slipping the needle
through to the wrong side, making one or
Fio. 52.
two back-stitches, and smooth out the seam so
that the patch lies perfectly flat. This is the
only seam which shows on the right side of a
print patch.
Turn the work over to the wrong side and cut
away the worn pieces to within a quarter of an
inch of the edges as in other patches. Then
begin at one corner and overcast the two raw
edges together with neat blanket stitches. The
stitches must not show through on the right
side.
Flannel or Woven Material Patches. - Flannel
patches differ from those made on cotton or
linen in that the raw edges are never turned
down, as the material is too thick. They are
worked with herring-bone stitches instead of
being felled. The patch itself may be square,
oblong, triangular, or round, according to the
shape of hole to bo covered.
Square and Oblong Patches are worked the
same way and are preferable to the other shapes
when it is possible to use them. Cut the patch
according to directions given for calico patch,
and notice that the way of the nap, i.e. the fluff
on the flannel, corrasponds with that of the
garment. Place the right side of the patch
downwards on the wrong side of the garment,
the threads of the material running in the same
direction, and the middle of the patch over the
middle of the hole. Put a pin in each corner
and then tack down carefully with fine sewing
cotton. Herring-bone round the edges, beginning
in the middle of one of the sides. Commence by
inserting the needle between the two thicknesses
of material and four threads up from the edge
PLAIN SEWING AND MENDING
415
of the patch. Be csireful with the corners to
make them all alike. Finish off by making one
or two back-stitches over the last herring-bone
stitch and slipping the thread through between
the two folds of material.
Turn over to the right side. Cut away the
worn part of the garment to within one quarter of
an inch, or about eight threads off the herring-
bone stitches, which show through like running
stitches. This will allow four threads for the
herring-bone on the right side, and four threads
for the space between those and the other
stitches. Now herring-bone the geurment on to
1 )
Fig. 53.
the patch, beginning in the middle of one of the
sides. Work the corners as before and finish
off (fig. 53).
A Triangular Patch is sometimes found more
practical than a square or oblong for mending
under armholes or at the neck of a garment.
It is prepared and placed in the same way as
a square patch, and the corners must be neatly
finished. Care must be taken when tacking
Fia. 54,
and herring-boning along the crossway sides, as
the material will be inclined to stretch (fig. 54).
A Circular Patch is most suitable for a hole
occurring in the elbow of a garment. It is a
little more difficult to manipulate, as the edges
are apt to stretch. Prepare and place it as
above and tack it very carefully in position.
The herring-boning will differ a little from the
regulation stitches, as they cannot be worked to
a thread; and as the inner circle is narrower
than the outer one the top stitches must be made
closer than the bottom ones on the WTong side,
and on the right side the bottom stitches closer
than the top ones (fig. 55).
Patching of Woven Material. - Woven material
can also be patched in the same way as flannel
if the garment is old and the hole to be mended
very large. Darning in this case would not be
N.
f
'^
^
\
^m0^
/
Fig. 55.
suitable. Fix the patch according to directions
given for a flannel patch and herring-bone with
fine wool instead of cotton.
SPECIAL MENDING
Fine Maslin should be mended in the same
way as other cotton material. Any dsiming
should be done with very fine soft cotton, and
if a patch has to be inserted the hems should
be made very narrow, and, where possible, hidden
with a tuck.
Blankets. - These are such precious articles
that they should be darned and patched as long
as possible, and T\hen they become too shabby
to put on the top of the bed they can be used
as under-blankets or binders. All thin places
should be darned with wool of the same colour.
If the place is very thin a piece of thin open
flannel might be put at the back and the
darning done over that. WTien there are
actual holes, patching is better than darning,
and the herring-boning should be done with
fine wool instead of cotton. If the sides of
the blanket become ragged and shabby they
should be trimmed with a pair of scissors,
then a narrow fold made and herring-boned
down ; or, the edges may be worked over with
blanket stitch in the same colour of wool as the
ends of the blanket.
Woven Under-garments. - These are also very
precious articles, and ought to be mended and
made to last as long as possible. Each week
when they come from the washing they should be
examined, and at the first signs of wearing must
be carefully darned. It is also important to
mend all under-garments at the end of a season
if they are to be laid away for some time.
If a thin place occurs in a hea\-y woven
material a piece of thinner woven material of an
elastic nature may be put at the back and the
darning done over that, or the worn piece may be
416
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
cut away and a neat patch inserted. Hand-
knitted underclothing is best mended with the
stocking-web dam, or a new piece might be
knitted in.
The wear of woven gsurments may be much
increased if the parts which undergo most
friction are carefully strengthened before the
garment is worn.
Table-Linen. - Mend according to general direc-
tions given for mending linen materials. The
question as to whether a patch or dam is
best must depend upon the positiod and size of
the piece requiring repair. Tlie aim must be to
mend so skilfully that the damaged part is as
little observed as possible.
A hole must always be patched unless it is
quite small, when it may be filled up with darn-
ing. In patching the pattern of the damask
must be matched as closely as possible as in
print patching. If a hole occurs in the middle
of a table-cloth it is sometimes a good plan to
fix in a centre taken from an old serviette.
Flourishing tlu-ead is the best to use for darn-
ing purposes, or a linen thread that is not glazed.
Instead of darning by the ordinary method, a
clever worker will copy the design of the damask
by missing and taking up more or less of the
warp strands of the darn, but this is very trying
for the eyesight and could only be undertaken
by an expert worker.
When the corners of a table-cloth become
worn or torn in the washing, they should be
rounded off very neatly and hemmed. The
four corners should bo made aUke.
Mending of Tweed or other Cloth. - This mend-
ing being applied to outer garments, it is very
important that it should be very neat and show
as Uttle as possible on the right side. As a rule,
for thin places and holes it is better to tack a
f)atch at the back and darn over it on the right
side. Ravellings of the same material should be
used- When finished put a damp cloth over
the wrong side and press it well with a hot iron.
If there is a lining the back seam must be un-
picked and the patch sUpped between the cloth
and the lining. The darn must be pressed
before the lining is sewn together again.
If the garment is not lined, the raw edges of
the patch can be darned into it neatly at the
back ; but this should only be attempted by
really good workers, as, even if the stitches do
not show through very much, the work is apt to
pucker.
An esksier way is to overseam or blanket stitch
the raw edges of the patch and press them well
with a hot iron.
Pine Drawing. - This stitch can be used for
mending a rent or cut in cloth of a close tex-
ture which does not unravel easily. The stitch
itself is very simple, and, if carefully made, should
be almost imperceptible. Use a thread of the
same material if possible, or, failing that, silk or
wool to match it. Silk must never be used on
a dull fabric as the stitch would bo perceptible ;
in fact, if the material is very fine there is
nothing better than a himian hair for mending
a cut of this kind.
If the edges of the tear are very much un-
ravelled, work the longer tlireads in, then cut
the rest quite straight. Hold the work flat
over your left hand between your thumb and
first finger with the right side uppermost, make
a knot at the end of the thread and bring out
the needle on the right side of the tear close to
top and keeping the two edges very well
together. Point the needle the other way and
bring it out, and similarly through the other
side. Draw the thread closely to make the
edges of the cloth meet, but not to overlap
(fig. 56). Continue taking a stitch on each side
Fig. 56.
alternately till the join is finished. Finish oft
with one or two back-stitches. Press the join
under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Old German Seam. - This is very similax to
fine drawing and can servo the same purpose.
The stitches are made much closer together ;
they should not bo more than two or three
tlireads apart.
Stoting is often used by tailors for mending
a tear in material that does not easily fray out.
Take a thread of the material and make a knot
at the end. Fold back the material so that the
edges of the tear are outside and perfectly even.
Hold the work as for seaming, and begin quarter
of an inch at the left of the tear. Work from
left to right, making very close stitches and
taking up a very small amount from each edge.
Continue to one quarter of an inch beyond the
tear on the right-hand i^ido. Finish off vnth
about six stitches to the left, crossing the last
six seaming stitches. Iron on the wrong side
PLAIIs^ SEWING AND MENDING
417
with a damp cloth over the material. If the
work is well done the tear shovild be almost
invisible.
The " Stoppeur." - There is a special kind of
darning for tweeds and cloths done by the
" stoppeur." " Stoppeur " is to mend a hole so
that it is absolutely invisible on the right side,
and only loose threads are seen on the wrong
side. It is done with threads exactly like those
of the material, and the design itself is copied.
This is rarely done by an amateur ; but if an
awkward hole or cut occurs in a good garment,
such as a tailor-made gown or overcoat, it is
worth while to send it to the professional
" stoppeur," who will mend it for a very reason-
able charge.
To Mend Silk. - It is not easy to mend silk
nicely, as, like fine muslin, it is only used for
dressy garments and fancy articles, all of which
are more or less conspicuous.
As a rule, it is best to darn it finely with silk
of the same colour, or to put a patch on the
wrong side and to darn over that. If there is a
decided hole, then it may be better to insert
a patch in the same way as on a print article.
As far as possible in the mending of light silk
seams and tucks should be made use of to hide
part of the patch. Lace insertions, too, especi-
ally in. children's frocks, come in very useful for
the mending or hiding the insertion of a patch.
To Mend Gloves. - The style of mending must
depend upon the material and texture of the
gloves. The thin places in
cotton, silk, or woollen gloves
must he very neatly darned
with fine cotton, silk, or wool
of exactly the same shade and
texture. Little wooden eggs of
different sizes can be bought
singly or by the half-dozen for
slipping inside the fingers when
mending gloves. There are also
small sticks with rounded ends
for the same purpose.
Split seams in cotton and silk
gloves must be stitched on the
wi'ong side of the glove with fine
silk or cotton of the same colour. Care must
be taken not to pucker the seam and to com-
mence and finish off the thread securely with-
out knots.
If a woven or knitted glove splits between
the fingers or at the wTist owing to its being too
tight, darn the opening neatly so as to allow
a little more width. If the same thing happens
to a kid glove, take some silk of the same colour
and button -hole stitch the edges of the slit,
working round and round several times if
necessary to fill up tho space. Then tm-n the
glove on the wrong side and close the hole by
catching the end loops together, either with
overcasting or with button-hole stitches.
If there is a decided hole a better way is to
Glove-Menders.
procure a piece of the same kid from, an old
glove and to cut a patch of a suitable size. Put
this under the hole or sHt and over-seam all
round the edges on the right side with very
close stitches. Use fine sewing silk of the same
shade as the glove. Turn to the wrong side and
herring-bone down the edges of the patch with
pretty large stitches. The stitches on the
patch should be taken through the single kid
only, so that only one set of stitches show
through to the right side ; and these must be of
the very smallest. Suede, chamois, and all sorts
of skin gloves can be mended in this way.
SEWING BY MACHINE
No household should be without its sewing-
machine. Although good handwork is always
more valuable, and in many cases it cannot
be replaced, where there is a large amount of
sewing to be done, some more rapid method of
getting through the work must be resorted to.
There is no limit to the work that can be done
on a good sewing-machine, and when we con-
sider the hours of hand-sewing it can save, not
to speak of the work which would otherwise
have to be given out or bought " ready made,"
the initial expense in buying the machine should
never be grudged.
Not only will a machine do the long plain
seams, but it has now so many accessories that
it can be made to hem, braid, tuck, gather,
quilt, bind, &c., as well.
It is very important to buy a good machine
and one by a reliable maker. It is a mistake
to be led away by a cheap price or to buy one
second-hand ; in most cases it will be found that
a second-hand machine is worn out in some
part and will be an endless source of worry.
Invest in a really good article ; it will give endless
satisfaction and will last a lifetime if reasonable
care be taken.
There are two different kinds of machines :
(1) those that sew with a single thread - ^the
Chain-Stitch Machines, and (2) those that have
two threads - the Lock-Stitch Machines. There
is sometliing to be said in favour of both kinds.
In the former there is less mechanism, and the
working of the machine is very simple. The
work can easily be undone when required, and
provided the ends of thread are well fastened, the
stitching is perfectly secure. It is peirticularly
good for Hght work, such as the sewing of silks
and mushn. A little hand chain-stitch macliine
can be had so small and light in weight that it
can easily be carried about or can be packed up
for travelling without any trouble.
The lock-stitch machine gives a double stitch,
as there are the two threads, one above and the
other below in the shuttle. The work is very
strong and secure and can only be undone with
difficulty.
Both kinds of machines can be worked either
2d
418
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
by hand or by foot. The special advantage of
the treadle machine is that both hands are left
free to guide and arrange the work.
The treadle machine is objected to by many on
the grounds that it is bad for a woman's health,
but the evils have been much exaggerated, and
unle&s the machine is a particularly heavy one
and it is worked for hours in the day, there is
nothing to be feared. If there is only a small
amount of sewing to be done a small hand-
machine will no doubt serve the purpose, but if
it is wanted for use in a large household it is
almost wiser to buy one with the treadle, as this
can always be detached and the machine worked
by hand if desired.
Full instructions for the use of the machine
are given with each special make ; in fact, most
makers offpr lessons free of charge to each pur-
chaser, and this will be found of great assistance,
as it is difficult to learn from any printed direc-
tions. There are, however, several important
points to be borne in mind when using any
machine, and a few general hints may be found
useful.
One is apt to attribute to the machine all
the faults of bad work, when in reality it is often
nothing but inexperience on the part of the
worker.
(1) The machine must be kept clean and in
good order. It ought to work easily and with
little or no noise ; in fact, some of the newest
makes are almost silent. If it works heavily it
is almost a sure sign that it requires oiling. It
wears a machine to work it when insufficiently
oiled, to say nothing of the difficulty in working,
being very tiring for the worker. Oiling must
be done regularly and the best machine oil used.
This is very important, as oil of an inferior quality
is almost sure to clog. By means of a little oil-
can oil all the parts where there is friction -
these are generally indicat,ed by little holes in
the machine - and then wipe off any superfluous
oil with a soft duster.
The machine must always be kept free from
dust. There is always a certain amount of
fluff coming off the different fabrics that are
sewn, and this lodges in the various parts of the
machine, so that it is well to wipe it ovor when
the work is finished.
Then from time to time a more thorough
cleaning is necessary. Use a little petrol instead
of the ordinary oil and work the machine several
minutes. Then clean the other parts with petrol,
wipe off with a soft cloth, and grease in the
usual way.
A machine should be kept covered when not
in use.
(2) The furnishings used with the machine
should be of the best. The needles must be
good and well proportioned to thickness of
thread and material. It is always well to keep
a supply of different sizes in reserve, and if
these are stuck into a piece of greased flannel
this will preserve them from rusting.
Tlie sewing thread, too, must be good and of
a smooth and even make. It is impossible to
produce a good stitch with a poor quality of
cotton; besides,if there areknots or badly -twisted
parts, there will be the continual annoyance of
breaking the thread. The tliickness of the
thread must also be proportioned to the size of
the needle, and in the lock-stitch machine the
shuttle thread shoxild always be a little finer
than the upper one.
(3) The tension must be right. Very careful
attention should be given to the instructions
regarding this, because unless properly regulated
it will be impossible to work the machine satis-
factorily.
When beginning to work the machine it is
always better to test the stitch on an odd piece
of material before starting on the work itself.
DARNING BY MACHINE
The Singer Sewing Machine Company have
introduced a new method of darning by machne
which ought to be an immense boon to the busy
housewife. The process is very simple, and the
special attachment which can be bought for
3s. can be used on any lock-stitch so%ving-
machine.
Full particulars can be had by w' calling at any of Singer's shops, where a special
lesson will always be given to purchfisers free
of charge. Both woollen and cot ion goodo can
be darned by means of this little appliance, and
the expert worker will be able to darn curtains
and lace so as to match the texture of the
material. The work is quickly done and has a
very neat and f Tiooth appearance when finished.
HOME DRESSMAKING
In this article no attempt has been made to go into the more scientific side of dressmaking, in-
cluding such subjects as drafting patterns, making fitted bodices or tailor-made garments ; such
knowledge can only be acquired by taking a thorough course of technical lessons - it cannot be
imparted by books.
The woman who wishes to make a study of dressmaking in all its branches should undoubtedly
arrange to take lessons either privately or at one or other of the many technical schools. It is for
the assistance of the woman who wishes to eke out her dress allowance by making her own skirts
and blouses and simple frocks, with the aid of one or other of the many paper patterns which are now
so easily procurable, that this article has been written, and we trust that the many hints embodied
in this chapter in regard to the adaptation of stock patterns to individual figures, and the cutting
out and making of simple yet smart garments will be of real practical iise to the home worker.
Economy of Home Dressmaking. - The ex-
travagance of the present age in regard to dress
has been made at various times the subject of
much comment in the newspapers. Men cor-
respondents have aired their so-called grievances
in the form of letters to the press, complaining
that where their grandmothers in their time
could do with one or two new dresses every year,
their wives and daughters are not content with
less than half-a-do2;en. On the surface there
would appear to be a certain amount of justi-
fication for this complaint, wliich will, however,
bear the brunt of more searching investigation.
The fact is that we enjoy so many advantages
to-day in the way of reduced cost of dress
material and accessories that, on comparing the
cost of dress fifty or sixty years ago to what it
is now, the balance of expenditure will be found
to be pretty evenly adjusted. Nowadays a
woman would hold up her hands in horror if
called upon to pay six or seven shillings a yard
for the material of her most ordinary gowns ;
yet this was looked upon by our grandmothers
as a very moderate expenditure indeed. Neither
would the woman of to-day dream of spending
a small fortune on the heavy silk brocade of
which the best gown of every self-respecting
woman of our grandmothers' time was invari-
ably built. Good dress materials are now well
within the reach of the most modest purse ; and
where a woman can make a large number of her
gowns herself, she will manage to dress very weU
indeed on a comparatively smaU outlay.
Not the least remarkable aspect of the present
era in dress is the rapid growth of home dress-
making. In former times the home-made dress
was usually an object weird and wonderful in
its clumsiness and lack of stjle. Nowadays the
rapid advance made in the science of dress-
making has come to the aid of the home dress-
maker, with the result that she is able to turn
out very creditable and well-fitting gowns.
Paper Patterns. - The now well-known paper
patterns are the outcome of this progress in the
dressmaking art. Patterns well drafted and
well designed and, above all, well cut may be
purchased for a few pence. These patterns
have been designed by expert di'essmakers and
fitters, and with their aid many women and girls
manage to keep up a very good wardrobe upon a
very small dress allowance indeed. Nowadays
there is scarcely a woman who has not attempted
to make a blouse for herseK at some time or
other and witli success. In olden times a woman
had to use her own brains in the designing and
cutting of her gowns. Nowadays the brains of
the experts who design the various patterns are
at the command of every woman who chooses
to avail herseK of the opportunities offered.
All she has to do is to carefully note and follow
the instructions given with the pattern. If she
is careful in regard to these, her work cannot
very easily go wrong.
The necessity for getting a good and reliable
pattern before attempting to make a dress or a
blouse is obvious. Among the many patterns
which have found favour with the home worker,
those sold by Messrs. Butterick & Co. of 83 and
84 Long Acre, London, W.C, deservedly take a
prominent place. These patterns are to be had in
nearly every size, and the instructions for their
use are so concise and so clear, that women with
only the most elementary idea of dressmaking
can turn out really smart garments for them-
selves with the aid of Butterick patterns.
If it is a woman's first attempt at dressmaking,
she should select a shirt blouse or a plain skirt
of the simplest description on which to try her
419
420
THE WOISIAN'S BOOK
" 'prentice hand." One* she has turned out a
really Buccossful ehirt blouse or a plain unlined
skirt, she may attempt more ambitious things,
for in dressmaking, as in every other science,
once the rudiments are mastered the rest will
become easy.
In ordering a blouse pattern it is necessary to
give the correct bust measurement. In sending
for a skirt pattern the waist measurement, and,
what is even more important, the measurement
round the hips about five inches below the waist-
line should be given.
Dressmaking Accessories. - Ha\ang secured a
good pattern, the home dressmaker should turn
her attention to the other necessary accessories.
She will require a pair of sharp cutting-out
scissors, a pair of small button-hole scissors, good
needles and thread, a measuring tape, and a
tracing wheel for tracing the pattern lines and
Tracing "VMieeL
marks in the material. Tailors' chalk or coloured
thread could be used for marking heavy materials
on which the tracing would not show. A good
treadle sewing-machine is of course a very
valuable accessory to dressmaking ; there should
also always be a plentiful supply of pins.
The table on which the material for cutting
out is laid should bo large enough to allow for
the various pieces of the pattern to be spread
out full length upon it. Tlie pattern should be
pinned to the material or adjusted in such a way
as to prevent it from slipping out of place.
A Useful Dressmaking Board. - It is an im-
portant rule of dressmaking that all the different
pieces of a garment should be tacked together
on a table, or, failing this, some other smooth flat
Dressmaking Board.
surface. A plain piece of board will answer the
purpose quite well. It should be after the style
and size of an ordinary drawing-board, with one
side scooped out to form a curve, as shown in
tne illustration. If there is no member of the
family sufficiently versed in the art of homo
carpentering, any joiner will supply and cut out
the board for a trifling sum.
\Mien seated at work the worker should take
the board upon her knees ; the curved part will
fit into her waist. She should place her feet upon
a footstool in order to support the board more
firmly. In this way she will have a very effective
little impromptu table at her command upon
which all her tacking can be done with the
greatest ease.
Dress-Stands. - A woman who makes her own
gowns will find her work much simplified if she
has a good dress-stand for fitting purposes.
This she can have made to her own measure, or,
if it has to do duty for several members of a
family, one of the expanding dress-stands, which
can be adjusted to any figure, will be found most
useful. In arranging the pleats of a skirt at the
back and securing an even hang all round, a
dress-stand is almost indispensable. Separate
bodice-stands may also be had padded for pinning
for an outlay of only five or six shillings. The
padded stands are undoubtedly the most iiseful
ones to have.
Dressmaking Stitclies. - The home dressmaker
must of course have a knowledge of the simple
needlework stitches, such as tacking, basting,
running, gathering, hemming, seaming, sewing,
stitching, back-stitching, slip-stitching, &o., for
description of which refer to needlework section
(p. 388).
Tailor's tacking is the stitch used in conveying
the different notches and perforations of a
pattern through the different breadths of the
Tailor's Tacking.
material to be cut when chalk cannot be used.
With a double thread of basting cotton baste
through pattern and material with oiit. long
stitch and two short ones, leaving the long
stitch loose enough to form a loop, then take
hold of the two pieces of material, separating
them about a quarter of an inch and cut them
as shown in illustration. Coloured cotton is
usually used for tailor's tacking.
Blouse Patterns. - Blouse patterns are cut in
different stock sizes according to the bust
measurement, and when the proper bust measure
is given the pattern will fit if a woman is of
correct proportions. There are many figures,
however, wliich differ from the average. One
woman may have an unusually high waist,
another may have an unusually long one. Again,
the arms of another may be very short in pro-
portion to the rest of hor figure, whilst in another
case the arms may be unduly long. The follow-
ing simple instructions and diagrams for altera-
tion of patterns will be found useful in all theso
cases.
HOME DRESSMAKING
421
One important thing to remember is that in
all cases in which an alteration is necessary,
the alteration must be effected on the pattern
before it is placed upon the material for cutting.
Before cutting out pattern be sure to read
carefully all instructions on pattern envelope.
In most patterns diagrams of all the separate
pieces of the patterns together -with instructions
for cutting out are given.
If a blouse pattern is too long-waisted and
requires shortening, a tuck should be made in
both front and back pieces in the position
Fig. 1.
shown in fig. 1. If the pattern is too short-
waisted and requires lengthening, cut pattern
across as shown in fig. 2, lay the di\'ided
portions upon another piece of paper separating
them far enough to make the pattern of the
Fia. 2.
req\iired length, and paste them on the paper,
cutting out a new pattern according to the
altered outline.
For widening the shoulder should be raised,
and increased turnings allowed at under-arm
seams.
In the Butterick patterns an allowance is
always made for fitting at shoulder and under-
arm seams. With other patterns, however,
this is not always the case, and
it is most necessary to carefully
read the directions sent with
the pattern in order that you
may allow extra width for fitting
and finishing if no allowance is
made.
The dotted line in fig. 3 shows
^^ere to make a tuck in the
blouse sleeve fur shor+sning it, or to cut it
across for lengthening it.
Fig. 3.
To shorten a two -piece sleeve pattern make
tucks in each piece above and below the elbow
of the size required as shown in illustration. If
the sleeve need lengthening cut across the pattern
in the same places, separating the pieces to the
required distance.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING
BLOUSES
When all the necessary alterations have been
made in the pattern it should be carefully pinned
to the material, and before taking the pieces off
mark all seams, notches, or perforations in the
pattern with chalk, or use the tailor's tacking
stitch in coloured thread through both breadths
of the material (see p. 420). If the blouse is to
fasten at the back, the front portion of the
pattern is laid to a lengthwise fold. If, as in the
case of shirt blouses, the fastening is to be in
front, the edge of the front portion of the pattern
should be laid to the selvedge or to a straight
tliread rvmning parallel with the selvedge.
In cutting out sleeves be careful not to cut
both sleeves for one arm ; this is a mistake very
often made by the beginner.
When the blouse has been cut out, baste pieces
together with notches evenly matched ; slightly
stretch the shoulder seam of the front piece or
pieces whilst basting to make the bloxise fit
evenly at the neck. Also stretch the neck
portion of the blouse whilst basting on the
collar. All parts of unlined bloiises should be
sewn together with French seams (see p. 392) for
the sake of neatness. When French seams are
used, however, the blouse will set better if the
seams are opened up from the bottom tothe waist-
line-the sides of the opened-out seams should
be neatly turned over and hemmed. If the
blouse is sewn into a small " basque band,"
sometimes called a " belt stay," at the waist,
this will dispense with any unnecessary fulness
below the waist-Hne, and the blouse will set
better and not pouch out loosely over the waist-
band, as blouses are often inclined to do.
Failing the belt-stay, a draw-string inserted
at the back of the blouse should be used. This
should be just at the waist-line ; if placed too
high it will show above the waist-belt ; if too
low the blouse will pouch out imtidily at the
back. Another effective way of keeping a
blouse in place is to stitch a webbing band
to the back and to fasten it round the waist
before putting on the skirt. If, in addition, two
strong hooks are sewn upside down on the
webbing band and two eyes sewn on the skirt-
band to fasten with the hooks, bodice and skirt
can be securely kept together in this way with-
out any danger of the blouse riddling up or the
skirt slipping beneath the waist-band.
Making the Sleeve. - The seams of blouse
sleeves should be first basted, and then very
carefully sewn together. The top part of a
422
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
blouse sleeve is gathered over the shoulder. Tlie
gathering must be made between the notches
shown in the sleeve pattern, and each sleeve
must be carefully sewn into the armhole with
the notches in the top of the sleeve even with
the notches in the armhole. Tlie sleeve is also
gathered at the wrist into the cuff. To Bnish
off the armhole neatly a narrow piece of cambric
cut on the cross should be stitched in the same
seam that stitches the sleeve into the armhole,
and afterwards turned over and stitched around
to form a binding to the armhole, as shown in
Binding a Sleeve.
illustration. If the top of the sleeve is not too
full, however, it can be sewn in with a French
seam.
The sleeves of shirt blouses are nearly always
made to open a few inches up the arm ; the
position of this opening varies with fashion.
Sometimes the opening may be at the inside
arm seam and sometimes at the back of the
Fia. 4.
sleeve. For a shirt cuff the sleeves are slashed
at the wrist and an overlap and an underlap
sewn on, as shown in fig. 4. The overlap
should be adjusted so as to entirely conceal the
underlap.
The Collar. - Collar patterns are always given
with the blouse patterns. Collars are cut on
the straight of the material and slightly curved
to fit well into the nock. For short necks the
collar must necessarily be rather low, and
therefore very little curve is required, a straight
band being often found sufficient. High collars,
however, require to be well curved. With
shirt blouses detachable linen or muslin collars
are often worn over a plain neck-band. For
dressy blouses, however, when high collars are
worn these should be boned when finished to
make them set well. It is always better to
have collar supports which can be removed with
little trouble when the blouse has to be washed
or cleaned. The celluloid collar supports are
admirable for this purpose. They should be
sewn in on either side of the collar with the top
coinciding with the Une of the neck from the
ear and the bottom of the support slanting
slightly forwards. Collars of dressy blouses
usually fasten at the back, and a collar support
should be sewn at each side of the fastening.
When the collar fastens in front a collar support
should be sewn at each side of the front fasten-
ings. When ordinary collar boning is used, be
careful that this is finished off very neatly and
covered with some soft covering, as in many
instances painful and unsightly sores upon the
neck have been caused where this important
detail has been neglected.
From a plain shirt blouse pattern may be
evolved many a blouse of a much daintier kind.
The fastening may be made at the back instead
of at the front, the latter being cut to the fold
of the material. Such blouses may be made of
silk, lace, muslin, net, crepe, de chine, or other
dainty materials, and prettily trimmed with
lace and insertion or hand embroidery. The
plain shirt blouse is capable of many stages of
evolution, and a well-fitting pattern should be
carefully kept, as in time the home worker may
evolve many ingenious ideas for making use of it
in some new way. W^ith plain loose blouses a
separate blouse slip should be worn instead of
lining. Blouse slips need not be boned ; they can
be of cambric, lawn, or washing silk, and are
very easy to make.
Buttons and Button-holes. - Shirt blouses are
usually fastened in front with buttons and
button -holes. Care should be taken that buttons
and button -holes are even. To ensuie this,
take a piece of light cardboard, make a notch
in this corresponding to the distance required
between each button -hole, and, beginning at the
waist-line, mark the position of the button -holes
by means of this notched card, marking each with
a pin. The waist should be taken preferably
as the beginning of the measurement, as there
should always be a fastening at the waist-line,
and this can be asstired in this way. Make
corresponding measurements for the buttons on
the left side of the blouse front. (For making
button -holes, see p. 400.)
Skirts. - Skirt patterns may have three, five,
seven, nine or more gores ; skirts with only three
gores require darts in order to be fitted to
the figure. A beginner often finds difficulty in
arranging these darts, therefore it is better that
she should select a skirt with five or seven gores
for her first attempt.
As has been said before, when ordering a skirt
HOME DRESSMAKING
423
pattern particular attention must be paid to
the measurement round the hips. If the hips
are large in proportion to the waist, then order
by the hip measurement, as although this entails
receiving a pattern with a slightly larger waist,
the latter can easily be taken in. For the
length of skirt take your measiirement from the
waist to the floor in front, at the back, and over
the hips. For walking length about two inches
will have to be deducted from the measurement
thus obtained. Now compare length obtained
by measurement with the length of the pattern.
If the pattern is too long, make it shorter by
Fig. 5.- lengthening and Shortening Skirt Patterns.
putting a tuck of the necessary size in each
piece of the pattern about six inches below the
hip-line. If it is too short, lengthen it by cutting
across and separating the pieces to the distance
required. Pin all pattern pieces carefully to the
material, and mark all notches and perforations
before taking the pieces off. In the case of
women who are not of average proportions,
alteration in length is not the only alteration
which wiU have to be made. The skirt of the
woman with a prominent abdomen, for instance,
is apt to stand out in front unless properly
cut. Although only a very simple alteration is
necessary to secure a perfect fit, few women
go to the trouble of finding out how this altera-
tion can be made, and are surprised if their
skirts hang badly through lack of it. An
extra allowance should be made at the top of
the front and side gores when the abdomen is
Flo. 6.
prominent, the extra depth being gradually
diminished until it is reduced to next to nothing
at the hips. Fig. 6 wU convey a good idea of
the alterations to be made ; the extra length at
the top of the skirt wiU prevent it from standing
out in front. Care must be taken not to make
the waist smaller when extendiiig the gores ; in
order to avoid this the side edges oi the gores
must be increased as shown in illustration.
When a skirt has to be altered in this way it is
better to cut it out first upon some cheap coarse
lining and fit it on before cutting the material.
To cut out Skirt Patterns. - If the material
has a pile or " up and down," all tops of gores
must be laid in the same direction when placed
upon the material ; if there is no up and
down, the gores may be arranged for cutting
with the top of one gore fitting in with
the bottom of another. The front piece of
pattern is marked with a notch on one side, the
side without the notch being placed to a length-
wise fold ; the other patterns are marked with
notches on each side, thus the first side gore has
one notch on one side and two notches on the
other, the second side gore has two notches on
one side and three on the other, and so on.
Tlie edge of a pattern piece with the less number
of notches must always be placed to a selvedge
or straight thiread from the hip downwards, the
hip of course being shaped to the figiure ; thus
in a gore which has two notches on one side and
tliree notches on the other the side with the
two notches would be placed to the straight
selvedge or straight thread, whilst the side with
the three notches would naturally fall on the
slant or the " cross " of the material.
The Pile of Cloth.- All woollen and cloth skirts
should be cut with the pile running towards the
bottom of the garment, but velvet or plush
garments should be cut so that the pile runs
upward. In cutting out the v£irious pieces of
the garment care must be taken that in each one
the pile runs in the same direction.
Stripes, Checks, and Plaids. - In cutting the
various pieces of a garment in striped, checked,
or plaided materials care must be taken that
the stripes, checlvS, and plaids are properly
matched. For tliis reason a greater quantity
of material will be required than in the case of
plain stuffs. It is important in these cases to
select a position for the top of the material. All
the pattern pieces should then be placed with
their upper parts in the direction selected. It
is as well to place the pieces of the garment
ah'eady cut on the material next to the adjoining
piece which is to be cut. This will form a very
good guide as to the best method of cutting the
next piece. In matching plaids and patterns
in this way a Uttle waste of material is often
unavoidable.
Stitching the Seams of Skirts. - The different
pieces of the skirt should bo carefully basted
together before stitching. Lay the skirt on a
table while putting it together. Tlie straight
side of each gore should always be held towards
the worker. The straight edge of the gore
always goes to the bias edge of another gore.
424
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
excepting at the back, where the two bias edges
come together. Care should be taken not to
stretch the bias edges whilst basting. All the
seams should bo basted from the top downwards ;
the skirt should then be tried on and any un-
evenness at the hem corrected. If possible, it
is as well to place the skirt on a dress-stand, or
for tho person who is to bo fitted to stand upon
a stool and get some one to mark on the bottom
of the skirt with pins or chalk in an even line
the exact length required. All skirts, excepting
those of very light flimsy materials, such as ninon,
&o., should be stitched by machine. In all
cases they should bo stitched from the top down-
wards. In machining side-back seams always
have the back next the " feed " of the machine
and the side-back next the pressure foot. When
the seams have been stitched, press them open
and overcast them. (For Overcasting, see p. 391.)
When stitching seams of very light materials,
such as washing silk, fine muslin, stitch a piece
of tissue paper in the seam. This can bo after-
wards pulled off, and will prevent the material
from puckering.
Finishing the Top of Skirts. - The waist-band
may be made of cotton belting. If single belt-
ing is used it is stitched on the right side, and
the raw edges on the wrong side are faced with
silk or Prussian binding. Where the belting is
double, this should be opened out, one end being
stitched at the front of the skirt, the other taken
over the back. Another way of finishing the
top of the skirt is by means of a " cording " ;
this method is especially suitable for stout
figures. To do this cut on the cross a piece of
strong silk or other stuff one inch and a quarter
wide; it must be a perfect bias. Place a medium-
sized cord along this strip of silk or stuff, double
the silk over, and run the silk and cording to-
gether, taking care not to stretch either the top
of the skirt or the cording. Baste skirt and
cording together by placing the side having the
narrow seam of silk against the right side of
the skirt with the cording towards the bottom.
After basting, back-stitch to the skirt by hand,
the right side of the skirt towards you, then turn
in the edge to the inside and finish off neatlj'.
Plackets. - The placket of a skirt may bo
placed either at the side or at the back. The
opening of the placket should be only as long as
is necessary for the skirt to be slipped on and
off easily. The seam should be opened out
about ten or twelve inches from the waist
according to the size round the hips, but in all
C£"es the shorter the placket the better. Two
Btrios of material, each half an inch longer than
the placket opening, should be cut. One strip
must be about four inches and the other strip
about two inches wide. The wider strip is
doubled over and sown to the left side of the
skirt to form an underlap, whilst the other strip
is faced to the right side (see fig. 7).
Pockets axe seldom worn nowadays, as there
is not much room allowed for them in the tight-
fitting skirt of the moment. Where a pocket
is found indispensable, however, it should be
made of lining to match the skirt and placed
in the placket either at the side or at the back
of the skirt. It usually takes the form of a kind
Fig. 7.
of pear-shaped bag, and is cut with the centre of
the pocket to the fold of the material. Open it
out and cut slip for pocket in the centre, where
pattern has been placed against the fold. Face
the opening with a piece of the dress material.
Fold again after facing, stitching all round
except at the opening ; finish with French seam,
and back-stitch pocket in the placket by hand.
Finishing the Bottom of the Skirt. - Never turn
up the hem of a skirt before the waist-band has
been adjusted. The bottom of the skirt may
either be turned over and hemmed, or finished
with a false hem. In turning over the skirt for
the hem care must be taken that the latter is of
the same depth all the way round. To ensure,
this take a piece of cardboard, make a notch
in this of the depth required, and, using
this as a measure, turn up hem all the way
round to the depth of the notch. If the
skirt is hemmed, the fulness at the top should
be gathered slightly before basting it to the
material. Baste carefully before stitching. The
skirt may bo hemmed by hand or machine-
stitched. The hems of cloth and serge skirts
are usually machine-stitched, sometimes being
finished off with two or three or more rows of
machine-stitching. Needless to say, the rows
of stitching must be perfectly even or the
appearance of the skirt will bo spoiled.
In accordance with present fashions stiffening
is not much used in the hems of skirts. Where
an interlining is preferred, bias strips of lining
or canvas are inserted in the hem. It is better
to avoid very stiff interlining, as the latter very
soon cuts the material. The edge of the skirt
may bo finished off with braid or binding to
prevent it from cutting. Brush or velvet
braiding are very good for the purpose. (For
Method of Braiding Skirts, see p. 404.)
Making a False Hem. - A false hem may be
made with pieces of material cut on the cross,
HOME DRESSMAKING
425
or in the shape of the bottom of the skirt. In
the latter case it is necessary to take the skirt
pattern as a guide in cutting out. If the hem
is faced with bias strips the odds and ends of
material left over from the cutting can be
utilised. A bias facing should always be stretched
slightly at its lower edge and shaped to the skirt
by pressing. Before putting on a false hem turn
up the lower edge of the skirt on the wrong side
and baste it ; tixcn up also the lower edge of the
false hem. This should be tiu-ned under and
basted to the wrong side of the skirt (fig. 8). The
Fig. 8.
raw edge of false hem at the top may be turned
in or bound with binding ribbon or braid. When
it is basted into position, stitch skii't and false
hem together. The hem should be well pressed
with a warm iron on the inner side when finished,
and all fulness at the top shrunk out by damping
and then ironing.
Pressing Seams. - There are many details of
dressmaking which the amateur more often than
not altogether neglects ; chief amongst these is
the pressing of seams. Careful pressing is of
the utmost importance to the appearance of the
finished garment. Special skirt, bodice, and
sleeve boards may be bought for the purpose,
but, failing these, the home worker can press her
garments quite well without them. Skirts and
coats require a large flat surface, and should
be ironed on a large ironing-board on a table.
Sleeves, however, should always be pressed on a
rounded surface. Failing a sleeve board, either
an old broom-handle or a rolling-pin covered first
with an old piece of blanket and then with a
smooth white cloth, would make a very good
substitute ; a large round ruler might also be
made to answer the purpose. The seams of
cloth garments should be damped before pressing.
It is not necessary, however, to damp the seams
of lighter and softer materials. All darts should
bo pressed over a tailor's cushion where possible.
Seams of silk and velvet garments should not
be pressed upon a table or board. When it is
necessary to press seams in silk or velvet, hold
one end of the seam in the left hand, and let
some one else hold the other end. Then with
the right hand run the iron along the seam,
pressing it open or closed as desired ; in this
way the iron touches only the seam. If no
assistant is at hand, lay the iron on its side and
use both hands to draw the seam across the edge
of the iron. The hem of a silk skirt may be
Tailor's Cushion.
pressed in the iisual way on the table or boeurd,
but do not have the iron hot, and press only the
hem.
GENERAL HINTS
Shrinking Materials. - ^It is important to re-
member that all woollen materials should be
shrunk before they are cut and made up. If
this is not done, the dress will probably not only
shrink if exposed to rain, but it will also spot.
When buying woollen materials always inquire
if they have been slirunk. If not the shrinking
will be usually undertaken at the shop at which
the material has been bought for a small charge
per yard, or it may be accomplished at home in
this manner : - Lay an ironing blanket evenly
upon a good-siz;ed table. Place the material
face downwards upon the blanket, ha\ang first
cut off the selvedges. Then take a strip of heavy
unbleached muslin or drilling one yard wide and
two yards long, wet and wring tliis out, and then
place it over the material. Now press several
times with the hot iron, shrinking only a small
portion at a time. After doing tliis remove the
muslin and press directly on the material until
dry. Double-width material should be folded
the right side inwards whilst being pressed.
Some of the thinner woollen goods will not stand
pressing in this way. It is as well always to
experiment with a small piece of the material.
If it is found that it becomes shrivelled up, it is a
sign that water should not be used ; press instead
with a moderately warm iron.
An important point for the home dressmaker
to remember is that some hght summer wash-
ing materials, such as drill, duck, pique, linen,
spotted muslins, require shrinking as much as
woollens, for if this is not done dresses of these
materials will in most cases shrink a great deal
after their first visit to the laundress.
Inhere is another important detail in regard
to dressmaking in which the home dressmaker
often fails, i.e. neatness in finishing. A care-
lessly finished garment reflects but little credit
upon its wearer. Neglected turnings and frayed
edges, badly adjusted hooks and eyes, crooked
button-holes, puckered hems, all betoken the
426
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
careless worker. Every part of the garment
should be neatly and carefully finished.
\Vlien making a skirt never forget to sew two
little loops made of ribbon binding, skirt lining,
or black tape to the inner side of the waist-band,
one at each side of tlie waist, by which to hang
up the skirt. This is only a little thing, but it
helps to keep the shape of the skirt much longer
than if it were hung up by the material itself.
Trimmings. - These play an important part in
the fashioning of tasteful garments, and must
be chosen with discrimination and taste. The
skilful worker can transform quite a simple little
blouse or skirt into very dressy garments in-
deed by the judicious addition of trimmings.
Ornamental buttons may be utilised with great
effect. These may be had in all kinds of shapes
and designs, and are also often made of the same
material as the dress. In this latter case the
home worker must make the buttons herself,
purchasing button moulds of the si^e required.
These may be bought at any draper's and are
covered by cutting out pieces of the material
and gathering them on to the moulds.
Hand Embroidery is a very favourite trimming
for blouses. A good transfer pattern should be
procured and ironed on to the part to bo em-
broidered. These patterns are often given away
gratis by fashion papers, and should be carefully
treasured in case occasion for using them arises.
The transfer should always be tacked or
pinned in the position required, the right
side next to the material, and then pressed
with a moderately hot iron. The iron,
must not be too hot, however, or the blue
ink of the pattern will become obliterated,
whilst if too cold no impression will be
made. Very often in the case of blouses
made of the heavier materials, instead of
embroidering a transfer design, a most
ornamental effect is achieved by applying
a very narrow braid to the outline. The
braid should be slip-stitched on with silk
to match it, pressing well on the wrong
side when finished. All pas.sementerie and other
similar trimmings should be carefully tacked in
position before actually sowing them to the
garment.
SOME SIMPLE PATTERNS
The following are smart yet simple styles
which may be easily carried out by the home
dressmaker. Patterns similar to those illustrated
may be obtained upon application to The
Butterick Publishing Company, Long Acre,
London, W.C.
A Shirt Blouse. - Fig. 9 shows a very simple
yet up-to-date little shirt blouse well within the
scope of the amateur worker. It is finished
with a simulated box-pleat in front and four
tucks running from the shoulder on either side.
The back is finished with two long forward-
turning tucks to give the effect of a large box-
pleat. The pattern may be had in bust sizes
32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, and 46 inches. Two
yards of material 44 inches wide will be sufficient
to make the blouse for a woman of 34 or 36-inch
bust measurement. The pattern is cut out with
allowance for tucks, the position of the tucks
Fia. 9.- A Butterick Pattern.
being marked on the pattern with lines of
perforations.
To cut out the Blouse. - All pieces with largo
triple perforations should bo cut to a lengthwise
fold ; these include the back and the belt-stay.
All the other pieces must be cut with the large
double perforations lengthwise.
Pattern Pieces of Fig. 9.
To Make the Blouse. - To make the bcx-pleat
fold under the edge of the right front at notches,
stitching quarter of an inch from the fold, and
make a backward -turning tuck, creasing the
material for the purpose at the line of small
triple perforations. Malio a three-quarter inch
horn on left front piece, turning hem under at
largo single perforation. On each side of the
front make four backward -turning tucks,
creasing the material for the piu-pose at the
lines of small single perforations marked on
pattern, stitching three-quarters of an inch
from each crease, extending the tucks yoke
depth. In the back make a forward -turning
tuck on either side, creasing on lines of small
single perforations and sewing three-quarters of
an inch from each cmnse. Then gather the
fronts and back at small double perforation in
waist-line and three-quarters of an inch above.
HOME DRESSMAKING
427
terminating gathering-in line with single per-
forations just above.
Baste seams with notches matched, gather
sleeves at top between notches and at bottom
into Cliff. Join sleeve seam and baste sleeves
into armholes with corresponding notches in
top of sleeve and armhole. If the blouse is cut
with a sailor collar, the neck must be cut slightly
lower in front.
If the blouse is finished with a belt-stay, cut
the latter out with the triple perforations on
pattern to a lengthwise fold, and sew it under
gatherings at waist -line with the notches at the
bottom of the belt-stay meeting the under-arm
seams.
Tlie blouse should always be tried on before
the seams are actually stitched, and any little
arrangement of the fulness or other adjustment
can be made.
A Useful Overblouse. - The overblouse given in
the illustration (fig. 10) makes a very useful little
garment, as it may be slipped on over a blouse
which has already seen good wear, giving it quite
a rejuvenated appearance. It
can also be worn over a specially
made guimpe or underslip and be
fashioned out of ninon, net, lace,
silk, cashmere, or velveteen, in
accordance with the taste of the
wearer. One and seven-eighth
yards of material forty -four inches
wide, or three and three-eighth
yards of material twenty-seven
inches wide would be required
Fig. 10.- a But- ^O'^ wonTien of from thirty -two to
terick Pattern, thirty-six in bixst measure. It
is very easy to make, as the gar-
ment is cut in one piece. Before cutting
out make necessary alterations on pattern,
lengthening or shortening the waist about
two and a half inches above the waist -line.
The latter will be indicated upon the pattern
by a hne of small double perforations. For
wide material place the pattern with the edge
having large triple perforation to a lengthwise
fold. To avoid piecing when narrow material
is used, cut with edge having large triple
perforation lengthwise, allowing three-eighths
of an inch for seaming. Cut trimming band
for neck with triple perforation to lengthwise
fold. Baste seams wdth perforations and
notches matching. Turn hems under at each
side of back. Gather along double perfora-
tions at waist -line and three-quarter inch above,
termmating gathering-in line with large single
perforations.
Sew notched edge of sleeve-band to bottom of
sleeve with seams even and notch on upper
side.
Sew trimming band on flat with neok edges
and front centres even.
There are nictny ways in -n liich the overblouse
idea may be extended and developed from the
renovation point of view. By the addition of a
skirt tunic it becomes transformed into a useful
overdress. This may be carried out in ninon,
lace, or net, and, worn over an old evening dress,
will serve to give the latter quite a new lease of
life. Light overdresses of the kind look especi-
ally well over satin, and as this material has had
a certain vogue during the past two seasons for
evening wear, it may be presumed that many a
woman will have hidden away in some corner
of her wardrobe a satin dress which in ordinary
circumstances would have been put aside as
having fulfilled its mission, but which, if she is
wise, she can easily utilise in this very simple
way.
A very useful and at the same time dainty
evening gown can also be made by attaching
the overblouse in semi-princess style to a simple
five-gored skirt. This would look
very well carried out in ninon and
worn over a silk or satin underslip,
whilst made in soft silk it would be a
very simple style suitable for a young
girl's evening gown.
In cutting out the overblouse of soft
material for evening wear, extra width
should be allowed for gathering. If
of very thin transparent material it is
advisable to cut out an underbody of
the same shape in silk or satin, only
the latter should be quite plain and the
overblouse gathered on to it. Three
rows of gathers edged with a tiny
frill, as shown in illustration, make a Evening
very effective finish for evening wear. Gown.
Carried out in cashmere and worn
over a simple guimpe, the sleeves and yoke
of which are faced with lace, the same
idea may be applied in the fashioning of a
pretty afternoon gown. In this latter case the
trimming should consist of the bands of con-
trasting material as finish to neck and sleeves
instead of frills and gathers. To make the
whole dress five yards of material
forty-four inches wide would be
required for women of thirty-six-
inch bust measure, and for under-
body of evening gown one yard
of forty-five-inch material would
be necessary.
A Simple Skirt. - ^Tlie gored skirt
pictured in illustration is a very
simple pattern that may easily be
attempted by the home dress-
maker.
Before cutting out on woollen
stuffs the material should be
shrunk (seep. 425) and the selvedge j.jg ii._a But-
cut off. terick Pattern.
The diagram (p. 428) shows the
pieces of the skirt pattern. Some inexperienced
amateurs have made the mistake of thinking that
the single pieces joined together would make
428
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
a •whole skirt. Naturally they onlj' represent
the half ; tlie sccoud half of the front goro is
obtained by placing the front of it indicated by
three large perforations in the pattern to a
lengthwise fold ; the other pieces are cut in
duplicate. As already pointed out, notches are
made in eiich piece of the pattern to mark the
/
Pattern Pieces of Fig. IL
position of the gores. In cutting the material
these notches must be carefully marked, and in
basting the skirt the pieces with a corresponding
number of notches must be tacked together.
Full instructions for cutting and making
correctly are always given upon the pattern
envelope.
For an average-sizjed figure four yards of
material forty -four inches wide will be required.
A Princess Undersllp. - The vogue for such
ethereal fabrics as ninon, voile, lace, and net
for afternoon and evening weeu*, together
with fashion's mandate that the figure must
be slim, and that therefore under -garments
must be well fitting, has tended to decidedly
extend the sphere of usefulness of that very
comfortable and neat garment the " prin-
cess " underslip. There can, indeed, be no
more useful accessory to the wardrobe, for
instance, than one of these slips in black
or whit" satin, for it can be worn under
almost any kind of gown, and is at the
same time dressy enough for the smartest
occasions. Soft satin, it must bo re-
membered, is an excellent material for
wear, and is also wawhable, two very ex-
cellent recommendations for the woman
with a small drees allowance, whilst made
out of nainsook or batiste the slip is very
usefi-.l for wearing with summer lingerie
dresbes.
For a slip with flounce six and a quarter
yards of material thirty-six inches wide
with fourand one-eighth yards flouncing,eighteen
inches deep will be required. Ribbon beading
and lace can bo used for trimming if desired.
,Jcks running iciven in fig. 12 may bo made
The back is finise flounce, with long or short
sleeves, low or liigh neck, or the flounce may
be made to button on to the skirt, so that two
or tlu-ee different flounces suitable for vary-
ing occasions may bo made to go with the one
garment, thus affording a pleasing variety in
wear.
Two alternate fronts are given in the pattern
pieces. The piece marked (1) is placed with the
triple perforations to a lengthwise
fold where no seam in front is desired.
For narrow material and where there
is to be a centre seam use the piece
marked (2). The other pattern pieces
consist of side-front, side-back, back,
two styles of sleeves, sleeve-band,
collar, one quarter of dust ruflfle,
flounce and band to be used when
the flounce is made to button on to
the garment. If the under -garment
is to be made of satin or silk, and
the dust ruffle is to be accordion
pleated, cut the latter from pattern
piece ntmibered 12 according to in-
structions given below, and send it
to an accordion pleater, who will do
the work for a small charge. The
pattern is adaptable to either the
medium sweep or the round length. Butterlck
If flouncing is desired, cut the Pattern,
pattern of flounce (No. 11), with
front edge having a cluster of four small per-
forations on a fold and lower edge at border ;
if of other goods in either length, cut with front
edge on lengthwise fold. Cut " 12 " the depth
and four times the length of its pattern, " 13 "
twice the length of pattern lengthwise ; piece
Pattern Pieces of Fig. 12.
with large triple perforation on lengthwise fold ;
other pieces with large double perforation
lengthwise.
To Make. - Gather sleeve along top between
notches. If full sleeve is used, gather this at
HOME DRESSMAKING
429
bottom also. Join parts with notches matched,
and, furnishing an opening at centre-back, seam
above cluster of four notches for back closing,
or at centre-front seam jxist below lowest single
notch for front closing. If flounce is to be
pleated, make tliirteen backward -tiirning pleats
at each side by creasing from each small single
perforations in top to corresponding perforation
below, and bring creases over to large single
perforation, as indicated by small arrows on
diagram.
If a gathered flounce be preferred, gather
top of flounce and dust ruffle, and join dust
ruffle to bottom of gores. Sew flounce to slip
at line of large single perforations, or, if flounce
is to be buttoned on, join ends of band ; sew
one long edge of band to top of flounce and
sew other long edge over seam. Work equally
spaced button -holes on band, and sew corres-
ponding buttons to sHp as far above large
single perforations as required for top of
flounce to come at perforations when adjusted.
Then sew the upper edge of a row of inser-
tion to the slip so that it will cover the band
when slip is buttoned on. Trim with edging,
insertion, and ribbon beading.
For an inverted pleat at back, crease from
large single perforations near waist-line to cor-
responding perforations below, and bring both
creases over to back edges of extensions.
Try on, bringing closing edges of slip together,
and making alterations if necessary at outlet
seams.
A Useful Evening Cape. - The Toga cape has
supplied a long -felt wa.it on the part of the
home worker, for it is a simple pattern of
an evening cape easy to cut and easy to
Fig. 13. -a Butterick Pattern.
make, yet at the same time bearing the all-
important hall-mark of style. It is a fashion
also which promises to die hard on account of
its general all-round usefulness. Satin, cash-
mere, or other soft and easily draped material
is the best to use in making tliis cape. The
material should be as wide as possible to avoid
the necessity of a centre seam. Three and seven-
eighth yards of material fifty-four inches wide,
or four and three-quarter yards forty -four inches
wide, or seven and three-eighth yards of twenty-
seven -inch material would be required. There
is only one piece to the pattern.
To Cut. - If material without nap or distinct
Pattern Piece of Fig. 13.
up or down is used, cut with back edge (part of
pattern showing double perforation) to a cross-
wise fold : if the material has a distinct up or
down out with edge having a double perforation
crosswise, allow three -eighths of an inch on
this edge for seaming.
To Make. - Tack the two edges of the top
together to form a loop at the point indicated
by single perforation on pattern. Try on to see
that it hangs well and that the tacking comes
just at the back of the neck with the fulness
hanging in folds as illustrated. The simplest
method of adjusting the front of the cape is to
allow it to hang straight, a pretty ornamental
buckle being used as a fastening. Trim with
hand embroidery or fancy braiding and fasten a
tassel to the lower end of loop. The wrap may
be lined if desired.
A Simple Morning Dress. - In the chapter upon
the " Choice and Care of Dress " it is said that
every woman should have a simple but neat
dress for morning wear, especially when she has
a number of little household duties to attend to.
This dress should be made preferably of washing
material and should be cut just long enough
to clear the ground, or even shorter if required.
It should fit the figure neatly, yet loosely enough
to be comfortable and to allow free movement
of the limbs. All these important qualities,
which are so indispensable for a really useful
house dress, will be found in fig. 14.
This pictures a morning dress composed of a
neat blouse bodice attached to a plain seven -
gored skirt in semi -princess style. The skirt
may be finished off with a flounce at the foot or
430
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
else may bo left quite plain, according to in-
dividual taste. For the dress without the
flounce four and so von -eighth yards of material
forty-four inches wide would be
required for a woman of thirty-six-
inch bust measure, one and a
quarter j'ards extra material of the
same width being necessary for the
.J. , flounce. The dress may be made up
ra!"^'"|/ with or without a lining. We shall
" ' explain the latter method as being
the easier of accomplishment by the
home worker.
Before cutting out blouse bodice, try
on to see position of waist-line ; if the
latter is too high or too low rhake the
necessary alterations by slashing or
pleating pattern (see p. 421). Also
make the necessary alterations on skirt
pattern. This latter can have either
inverted pleats at the back, or be
finished with gathers, or else be left perfectly
plain. If the last-named method be preferred
Pattern Pieces of Fig. 14.
it will be necessary to cut oS back edge of
back gore of pattern at the line of small single
perforations.
To Cut. - If two bias edges are to meet at each
side seam, for striped or plaid material cut the
side and back gores with line of small triple
perforations lengthwise, or if a bias edge is to
meet a straight edge, for plain material cut these
gores with large double perforations lengthwise.
Cut all pieces with edges having large triple
perforations on a lengthwise fold, and other
pieces with large double perforations length-
wise. Either a bishop sleeve or a leg of mutton
sleeve may bo used - patterns of both styles are
usually given.
To Make. - Baste seams and join gores with
notches and perforations matching. Finish off
right front of blouse with box-pleat, gather
sleeVe at top between notches. If the bishop
sleeve pattern is used, slash up at the wrist,
and finish with a lap seven-eighth inch wide.
Gather sleeve at bottom between notches.
Turn under end of cuff in line with large single
perforations for a hem. Gather the front and
back of blouse at the bottom and also one and
a quarter inches above, terminating gathering at
large single perforations. Either a turn-down
collar or a high standing collar may be used.
Roll the former at line of perforations, or sew
on the latter with ends meeting at centre -back.
If flounce is used, it should be cut four times
the length of pattern. Fold under top of this
seven-eighths of an inch and gather half an inch
from fold, or if a heading is not desired, cut off
top of flounce half an inch and gather at top.
Sew flounce along gathering to skirt with lower
edges even.
For inverted pleats crease the back gore on
line of large single perforations, and bring
creases to centre seam. If preferred gathered
at back, gather gores between small double
perforations (see diagram).
Join the skirt to the blouse with front and
back centres even.
Sew a belt one and a half inch wide when
finished flatly over joining of skirt as illustrated,
and join loose edge of front gore to belt.
A Kimono Dressing-gown or Jacket. -
For a simple yet pretty style of dressing-
gown, the now familiar kimono is difficult
to beat. The trend of fashion also loaves
it practically untouched, for it bids fail?
to remain a long time with us, if only
for its usefulness, which is undisputed.
If it is wished to keep strictly to
the kimono idea, a material with a
floral pattern is the best to use. Pretty
Japanese silks, prints, or cottons with
floral designs make up very effectively,
a band of some plain contrasting
material being used as a
finish. For warmer gar-
ments plain flannels and
nun's veiling may be used.
For the dressing-gown given
in our illustrations fovu* and one-
eighth yards of material forty-
four inches wide will be needed
for women of thirty-six-inch bust
measure, with two yards of con-
trasting material twenty or more
inches wide for trimming bands.
A dressing-jacket may be made
from the same pattern by cutting
off the front and back pieces and
the front trimming band at th'^
line of large single perforations
running across the pattern pieces.
A long or a short sleevo may be
made. For the latter cut off
the sleeve pattern at the line
of small single perforations.
Lengthen or shorten kimono at bottom, and the
sleeve near notches in side edges. A two-and-a-
half-inch hem is allowed both for dressing-gown
and dressing-jacket. Cut all pieces having large
double perforations lengthwise of the material
I;
Fia. 15.- A But-
terick Pattern.
HOME DRESSMAKING
431
To Make. - Gather sleeve along top between
notches. Join parts with notches marked.
Try on, bringing front edges of fronts together,
Pattern Pieces of Fig. 15.
making alterations, if necessary, at seams. Sew
bands of contrasting material to neck and front
edges of garment, and sleeve-bands to sleeves.
For the dressing- jacket two and three -eighth
yards of material forty -four inches wide, or two
and three-quarter yards thirty-six inches wide,
with one and three-eighth yards contrasting
material twenty inches or more wide for bands,
win be required.
This pattern is also capable of development
into a useful theatre coat when satin, one of the
heavier silks, or cloth in some pretty art shade
is used. The kimono shape has long been in
favour for evening wear, and its popularity is
by no means on the wane. When used in this
way the garment should be neatly lined with
satin, silk, or polonaise. The sleeves may either
be gathered into a cufi or allowed to fall loose
according to indi^ddual taste. Needless to say,
it should be finished off very neatly, and the
facings of neck and sleeves should be interlined
with stiff muslin or other kindred material.
Note. - When ordering any of the patterns
illustrated from the Butterick Publishing Com-
pany, mention The Woman's Book, and quote
number appearing under illustration.
Useful Measurements
12 inches .
3 feet
36 inches .
100 centimetres
109
1 metre .
8 finger-lengths
1 foot
1 yard
1 yard
1 metre
1 yard
about 40 inches
1 yard
HOME MILLINERY
This chapter has been written for the benefit of the amateur and home worker, and not for that
of the woman who wishes to earn her Uving as a milUner. For this reason, therefore, only the prin-
ciples of simple miUinery, well witliin the scope of the average woman who is obliged to eke out a small
dress allowance by making or trimming most of her own or her children's hats, are detailed. How
to make a prettj' bow or rosette, how to sew on feathers, how to make and sew in a head-lining,
and to line the brim of a hat, are all fii-st steps in millinery which must be mastered by the homo
worker, and by means of numerous illustrations and diagrams wo have endeavoured to explain
these essential preliminsu-ies in as clear a manner as possible.
A description of the more intricate work, such as the making of wire frames, &c., has been omitted,
as a course of special lessons under a teacher would be necessary to acquire proficiency in this.
It is not within the scope of a book of this kind to deal with the latest styles in regard to hats, for
fashion varies to such an extent that even the latest style in millinery at the time of writing would
probably be demode by the time this article had passed through the printer's hands. There are
certain principles of milUnery, however, which cannot alter. Tliese are fully dealt with ; and if they
are carefully studied and successfully put to practical use by the home worker she will find it qviite
easy to adapt them to the prevailing modes. The knack of arranging flowers and other trimmings
can scarcely be taught. It comes as the result of natural taste and artistic instinct. We cannot
all be originators of artistic ideas in millinery, but at least we can endeavour to copy the ideas of
others.
This can be done by carefully studying the shop windows and fashion papers, noting the prettiest
styles and endeavouring to apply them to our own needs. In this way and by constant and perse-
vering practice, artistic efforts may be achieved by every woman who puts her heart into her work.
MILLINERY EQUIPMENT
Apart from the special requirements for each
hat the necessary implements and material for
home millinery are few and inexpensive.
If millinery is undertaken regularly at home
it will be well to lay in a supply of the following,
and then it will not be necessary to buy small
quantities each time a hat has to
be made or re-trimmed.
(1) Millinery phers. Is. per pair,
used for cutting wire instead of
scissors.
(2) Millinery or straw needles of
various sizes.
(3) Stoel pins, long and slender,
with sharp points.
(4) Silk wire, Ifd. a ring ; satin
wire, 2d. per yard, black and white.
(5) Ribbon wire for wiring ribbon
bows. Id. per card, black and white,
and cotton wire, Jd. to 6d. per ring.
(6) Black and white sarcenet for
head-linings, Is. 3d. per yard, or thin cotton.
(7) Black and white china ribbon for running
through head-linings, id. per yard.
(8) Soft and stiff muslin in both black and
white, 2|d. to 6|d. per yard.
(9) Buckram, 6fd., or spartra. Is. Jd. per yard,
for making shapes, bandeaux, &c.
(10) Strong sewing cotton, Nos. 16 or 20, or
sewing silk in black and white, and any special
colour to suit the hat that is being trimmed.
The home milUner will also be well advised
to keep a piece-box into which odds and ends of
lace, silk, ribbon, &c., can be put. Little pieces
of this description will often bo found of service
and be the means of saving many a penny.
HEAD-LININGS
Every hat or bonnet should have a head-
lining to make it tidy, and also to prevent the
rough straw or edges catching the hair. This
should bo put in before any trimming is com-
menced, although in the case of the brim re-
quiring lining this would naturally come first.
A head-lining is generally made of black or
white sarcenet, but any light weight and soft
finished quality of silk, such as thin glac6, China
or pong6o, will do equally well. In very light
lace or net hats a net or chiffon lining can be put
in, while in cheap hats a soft cotton or mufilin
will serve the piu-pose. For dark hats, black
or a colour to tone with the material must be
used, while white is the best for light-coloured
432
HOME MILLINERY
433
hatB, although sometimes a colour to match the
straw is used for the crown. This is sometimes
necessary if the straw is of a very transparent
make. Odds and ends of silk and ribbon may
often be utilised for this purpose.
The lining for a hat should be cut in two
pieces, a round or square-shaped piece for the
crown and a long-shaped piece to go round the
sides. The side lining may be cut either on the
cross or on the straight. For the breadth
measure the height of the crown and two inches
over, and for the length measure the inside
circle of the crown, allowing one and a half
inches over for the join. Commence to sew the
lining in at the centre of the back either by
stabbing through the crown or sewing it in aa
in fig. 1, sewing with an overcasting stitch
Fio. 1.
from right to left. The stitches must not show
on the right side. Where the head-lining meets
at the back slip the needle through the lining
and slip-stitch or hem the two sides together.
Make a narrow nem on the edge of the lining, and
draw this up with narrow China ribbon after the
hat has been trimimed.
The crown top lining may be either square or
round and of a size to fit the hat. Line it with
tissue paper, and either paste it in with a very
little paste or sew in \vdth a tacking stitch, i.e.
a long stitch inside and a very small stitch on
the outside of the crown.
Tlie lining of a bonnet is put in in the same
way, only the ends of the lining are not joined
together, but hemmed down at the base of the
bonnet.
If the home milliner does not wish to take the
trouble of making her own head-linings, most
of the large drapery estabUshments sell them
ready for sewing in. Tliey will cost from 6d.
to 9d.
BANDEAUX
A bandeau is used to make a hat fit more
comfortably, to make it smaller or larger, or to
raise it off the head in one part or another. It
is also used for sewing on trimmings.
A bandeau is generally made of buckram or
spartra wired at the edges and then covered
with velvet or silk. Velvet is largely used for
the purpose, as it clings to the hair. For a very
light hat three thicknesses of stiff net may be
used instead of buckram, wired at the edges and
then bound with silk or velvet cut on the cross.
It can then be covered with tulle or chiffon.
This will not of course be so strong aa the buck-
ram bandeau.
To Make a Round Bandeau. - This is used to
make a hat either smaller or larger and also to
raise it off the head. Cut buckram or spartra on
the cross one and a half inches deep and of a
size to fit the head, allowing one inch for joining.
Join into a circle and wire top and bottom with
silk wire, using a button-hole or wire stitch,
(see fig. 2). Be careful to lap the wire one inch
Fig. 2.
at all joins. Then cut some velvet on the cross
four inches deep and of a length to go round the
bandeau, allowing for turnings. Place the strip
of velvet inside the bandeau with a half-ii^ch
turning above the edge. Tack in position
through velvet and buckram (fig. 3). Then bring
FiQ. 3.
the velvet up on the right side, turn in the raw
edges, and shp -stitch the two together. This
bandeau should be stab-stitched into the hat
after the head-Uning is sewn in.
Black velvet is most generally used for sill
bandeaux, although they can be made of a colour
to match the hat.
A Small Bandeau - Tliis is made in the same
way as the circular bandeau. It is used to
tilt the hat off the head in the front, back or
SIDE QANOe/vu
FRONT BANDEAU
sides as the shape requires. Any trimming
that is desired may be attached to it.
A Flat Bandeau. - This is one of the most
fashionable bandeaux of the present day. Cut
2e
434
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
a circle in buckram ten inches across and cut
away the centre two inches from the outer edge.
Wire round both edges the same as in the other
bandeaux. Cover with velvet on one side only.
Turn the outer edge over to the wrong side and
BOW it down, then notch the inner edge, and
catch down the notches on the wrong side of the
buckram (fig. 4). Place the bandeau with the
raw edges next the hat and tack it into position.
An easy way to find correct position is first to
Fio. 4.
place the bandeau on the head (velvet side next
the hair), and then to put the hat on the top.
Take off hat. holding the bandeau in its proper
position.
VELVET
Most people know that there is a pile on velvet;
that is to say, one way will feel rough and the
other smooth when it is stroked with the hand.
In cloth the pile or smooth way always runs
down, but in velvet it is just the reverse, as it
runs up. There are two ways of finding out
the up and down of velvet - by feeling it or
by looking at it. Either pass your hand very
gently over the surface and feel how the pile
runs, or hold it up to the light and see how the
light afTects it. It should appear dark ; if it
looks light it is the wrong way of the material.
Velveteen should not be used in millinery as
it is too heavy.
The greatest care must be taken in cutting
and placing velvet to have the pile running the
same way in each piece, or one piece will look
lighter than another.
When covering a hat the velvet should shade
from the front to the back. It is always best to
cut out all the pieces together, and then a mistake
is not so likely to be made.
When lining or binding a hat with velvet the
brim should be held with another piece of velvet
to prevent the fingers marking it.
When fixing two pieces of velvet together
needles or fine steel pins should be used, as the
ordinary pins would make marks on the smooth
surface. It should always be tackod or sewn
with silk, as cotton will also mark it, and the
tacking threewls should not be pulled out
roughly, but cut here and there with a pair of
scissors and then gently drawn out.
To Cut Velvet or Silk on the Cross. - Lay the
material on the table with the right side upper-
most and the selvedges running the length of
the table. Take the bottom left-hand corner
and fold it across to the right until the selvedge
threads run straight with the weft threads
(fig. 6), and cut through the fold. The fold
Fig. 5.
is the exact cross of the material : if the exact
cross is not cut the bind or whatever the cross-
way pieces are losed for will not set smoothly
when put on the hat.
To Join Silk and Velvet on the Cross. - Cut the
strips of the material off the cross-cut end and
of the width required. The joins in a crossway
piece of material always run on a slant, which
Fig. 6.
means that they are joined on the straight of
the material. Place the two selvedges or two
slanting pieces together so that a pointed and a
blunt end are together as in figs. 6 and 7. Velvet
is better joined by hand with small back-stitches
Fig. 7.
made about half an inch down from the selvedge.
Care must be taken that the dtirk shade in both
pieces runs the same way. Silk may be joined
by machine.
To Hem Velvet. - There is a special stitch for
hemming velvet called the " Catch Stitch."
Tvu"n down the velvet once and commence
sowing at the left-hand corner. First take a
stitch on the turning without going through to
the other side, then a very small stitch just
below the turning taking up a mere thread of
HOME MILLINERY
435
the back of the velvet. No stitches must show
on the right side (fig. 8).
Roll Hemming Velvet. - In this method the
velvet is turned down twice and the stitches do
Fia. 8.
not show. Turn down less than quarter of an
inch to the wrong side, then turn over again
quarter of an inch, thus hiding the raw edges.
With a needle and silk take up one or two
threads on the back of the velvet and a long
stitch on the under part of the double fold.
Draw the thread as tight as possible without
puckering, when the stitches should be invisible
and the hem have a round appearance.
A Rouleau. - Tliis is generally put on the
under-brim of a hat about one inch from the
edge, to cover the hat and to give the brim a
more finished and softer appearance. A velvet
roiileau a shade darker than the hat itself always
looks well.
Take a crossway strip of velvet about an inch
wide and tiirn the raw edges over to the wrong
side, making them meet in the centre. Lace
Fia. 9.
them together, taking a stitch first under one
side and then under the other (fig. 9).
To Make a French Fold. - Cut a piece of velvet
on the cross three times the width the fold is
to be when finished. Fold over one edge, then
fold over the other edge, turning one edge over
more than the other (fig. 10).
Next turn over the narrow turning halfway on
to the wider turning, so that no raw edges show.
Fia. 10.
slip-stitch this fold down, taking great care that
the stitches do not show through on the right
side.
Velvet Ears. - Cross-cut ends of velvet are
frequently used in the making of bows, as the
material is too thick to allow of many loops.
They are also economical, as they use up the small
pieces of velvet.
There are several different ways of making
these : -
Fig. 11. - Take a strip of velvet, tvirn the
long point over to meet the shorter one, pile to
pile, and stitch across the open side. Then turn
FlQ. 11.
Fig. 12.
inside out, push the blunt end of a pair of
scissors into the point, and fix in position with a
few slip-stitches. Hem the remainder of the
strip on both sides.
Fig. 12. - Take a straight end of velvet
and turn over one of the points crossways pile
to pile. Sew the side edges together and turn
inside out, pushing the point weU out.
Or take a cross-cut end and Une it with a
piece of velvet or silk the same shape. Put
the two right sides together and sew round
with the exception of the straight end. Tvirn
inside out and finish as before.
OTHER PRELIMINARIES
Wiring the Edge of a Hat. - ^The edge of a hat
is usually wired to keep the brim in shape.
When a hat in unhned and without a binding or
facing of any kind, wire of the same colour as
the straw should be used. A medium-sized satin
wire is best, as there is more thickness for the
stitches to sink into and be hidden. The wire
should be placed at from a quarter to half an
inch from the edge of the brim on the under or
wrong side of the straw.
The wire, when possible, should be stab-stitched
on ; that is to say, the stitches taken through
from one side to the other so as not to bend the
hat or wire. The size of the stitch will depend
upon the kind of straw ; a smaller stitch will be
required for the finer makes than for those of
a coarser quality. In machine-made hats there
is often a double row of straw round the edge
between which the wire can be slipped, and then
the straw can be caught down to keep the wiro
in position. Some of the finer makes of straw,
such as Panama and Leghorn, are strong enough
to enable the wire to be simply sewn to one of
the braids without taking the needle tlirough to
the ^v^oug side.
Care must be taken to make the stitches aa
invisible as possible, and strong silk of the same
colour as the wire should be used for sewing.
436
THE WO^IAN'S BOOK
To join the wire allow an extra inch for over-
lapping and cut off with the pincers. Unwind
the silk of both ends and push back the cotton
under covering, trimming it off where it is not
required. Then re-wind the silk over the two
ends together tightly and neatly.
In all good hats, and especially those of a fine
make of straw, it is usual to cover the wire with
a rouleau of velvet, silk or tulle, unless the brim
of the hat is lined entirely. In tliis case the
cotton-covered wire will serve the purpose, and
it may be sewn on with a loose button-hole
stitch.
To Bind the Edge of a Hat. - Whatever material
is used it should be cut on the cross. First
wire the edge of the brim, unless the hat is very
firm and does not require the extra stiffening ;
then cover the wire with a piece of musUn cut
on the cross to prevent it showing through and
marking the velvet or whatever material the
binding is made of. Cut the material twice the
width required plus one inch for turnings. Join
neatly on the cross and get the necessary length.
Tack down half an inch turning on each side
of the strip and fold the bind in half. Slip a
pair of scissors inside, and with the blunt point
stretch the fold to enable the bind to he flat
on the round of the hat. Then pin in position,
arranging that a join does not come in the front,
and tack round the outer edge through the hat
and the two thicknesses of material, rather
stretching it on. Slip-stitch the bind on to the
hat first on the upper and then on the under side
of the rim.
Linings for Hat-Brims. - At the present time
tulle, net, soft silk, satin, and velvet are the most
fashionable for lining the under-brims of hats,
but of course any soft material can be used.
Figs. 13, 14, 15 illustrate three very pretty
methods of preparing a lining, and the material
for these can be cut either on the straight or on
the cross.
For fig. 13 measure round the edge of the hat
and allow half as much again for the fulness.
Fig. 13.
Cut the width the widest measurement of the
brim, plus one and a half inches for turnings.
Put in gatherings at equal distances apart,
and fix on to hat ; by the outer and inner
gathering sometimes the centre gathering also
has to be fixed. Slip-stitch the join neatly
together.
In fig. 14 allow same width round as in fig. 13,
but in the width the tucks must be allowed for.
For each tuck allow twice its width.
In fig. 15 cord is required. The cord can bo
bought in many sizes at a penny a bundle in
black and white. Cut material the same size
i/i^'^M^y
Fia. 14.
as for fig. 14. The cord can either be put in after
the tucks are made or the tucks may be made
over the cord.
Plain Under-Brims made of satin, velvet, or
silk are very much used nowadays. These
should be cut out and put on in the same way
Fia. 15.
as in covering the under-brim of a buckram
shape (see p. 440).
Ruching. - A niching may bo made of silk,
net, tulle, ribbon, lace, &c., and consists of a
succession of box-pleats made tdong the length
of the material and fastened down in the centr(\
When made of single box-pleata tliree times
the length of the finished ruching will be required,
for double box-pleats five times, and for treble
seven times as much. Thus, to make one yard
of ruching of double box-pleats, five yards of
ribbon or other material would be required.
The single box-pleat is formed by making a
pleat in the ribbon to the right and another to
the left, leaving one to one and a half inches
between, and making the inner folds of each
meet at the back, but this simple pleating is
seldom used for millinery purposes.
For a double box-pleated ruche start by making
a pleat towards you and then another exactly
on tho top ; make another ploat away from you
at about one and a half inches distance and
another exactly underneath. Tack the pleats
in position along tho centre, and continue thus
until the required length is made.
Care must be taken to make the pleats of
equal width.
The treble box-pleat is made with three pleats
to either side.
To give the ruche a lighter appearance raise
the top pleat on each side and tack them together
a little way in from the edge (fig. 16).
HOME MILLINERY
437
When a ruching is made of silk the edge is
usually miofihed or frayed out. The silk must
be cut on the cross in strips four and a half or
five inches in depth, and then joined to get the
required length. A yard of silk will make a
ruching for a fair-sized hat. Fray out the edges
with a pin to the extent of a quarter or half an
inch, drawing out the threads the way of the
silk. Make up the ruching as above, and when
the edges of the pleats are tacked together this
will form a very light and feathery-looking
trimming and one which is very serviceable.
Quilling consists of a number of pleats placed
nearly on the top of each other and fixed along
one edge. It is used principally for the fronts
of babies' bonnets, and can be made of ribbon,
chiffon, or lace.
A Chiffon Quilling. - Cut a piece of chiffon
twice the depth required, fold it in half, and
pin to keep it in position. Place the strip
lengthways on the table and commence pleating
at the end farthest from you. Make one pleat
about half an inch deep away from you,
make another the same size but underneath the
last pleat, so that one pleat is on the top and
one underneath. Make the next pleat on the top,
placing it so that it covers up half of the first
pleat made. Continue thiis first pleating on the
top and then underneath, making the pleats all
the same size and placing each one to centre of
the last. Sew along the raw edge to keep pleats
in position.
THE MAKING OF BOWS AND ROSETTES
General Hints. - The ribbon must be handled
very lightly if the bow is to have a fresh appear-
ance. The novice usually errs in experimenting
too much, with the result that the daintiness
which marks first-class millinery is altogether
wanting.
When making bows for the first time it is as
well to commence by practising on strips of
stiffish muslin, or old ribbon, or even with tissue
paper, and then when the knack of making loops
has been acquired the new ribbon may be
handled without fear.
If the bow is in ribbon it is better, if possible,
to keep it in one piece ; it can then be unpicked,
ironed out, and renovated and made up in a
different way when wanted. This can of course
only be done with good ribbon. In any case,
it is better not to cut the ribbon in separate
loops.
Do not be too sparing in the quantity of the
ribbon used or you will spoil the effect. A bow
should have a nice firm and rounded appearance
when finished, and in order to obtain this the
two ends of each loop must be pleated in opposite
directions. The pleated ends must be secured
by winding them ro\ind and round with strong
cotton or hnen thread.
When pulUng the loops into position do so by
placing the forefinger into each loop, being care-
ful not to flatten it down or it will be wanting
in that smart and stylish appearance which is
so necessary.
The number and size of the loops will depend
upon the style of bow that is required, but all
the loops and ends must appear to come from
one centre ; there must only be one root to the
bow, and that must be as tight as possible. A
single stitch or two may be taken where necessary
to keep the loops in place,, but these must always
be under a fold and invisible. It may sometimes
be found better to mount the loops on a small
tab of stiff net.
Although there are many different styles of
bows, and fasMons are apt to vary in this respect,
if you succeed in making one shape well you will
be able to make them all with very little diffi-
culty.
Wiring. - When the loops are long and it is
wished to have them standing out well in a
certain direction, the ribbon should be wired.
The wire may be pinned down the centre of the
ribbon on the wrong side, made up with the
loops, and then fixed in position with one or two
stitches taken on the back of the loops. Ribbon
wire is the best to use ; or a fine lace wire the
same colour as the ribbon may be neatly tacked
along the centre of the ribbon on the wrong side.
A Bow for the Back or Front of a Hat. - From
two to two and a quarter yards of ribbon about
six inches wide will be required. Commence at
one end of the ribbon, leaving four or five inches
Fia. 18.
to form an end, then pleat into small pleats and
twist round with cotton (fig. 17). A needle can
be used if desired to keep the fastening tight.
Then measure the length of loop required and
438
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pleat the other end in opposite direction from
the first pleats (fig. 18). Make three more loops
in the same way, and arrange them bo that two
of the loops lie in an opposite direction to the
Fia. 19.
other two, then leave an end to match the one
left at the beginning (figs. 19 and 20). The tie
over should be made of a separate piece of
ribbon, and can be large or small according to
Fio. 20.
fashion and on the straight or cross of the
material.
Bow for the Side of a Hat. - About three yards
of ribbon seven inches wide will be required.
Make in the same way as the above, only it is
usual to have all loops and no ends. The loops
which lie towards the front of the hat may be a
little shorter than those which he towards the
back. The tie over should be rather broad, and is
better put on after the bow has been fixed to the
hat. Unless the ribbon used is very stiff, a bow
like this would require to be wired.
Bows of Piece Silk, Velvet, &c. - A bow made
of silk cut from the piece is generally cheaper
than one made of ribbon. A fairly large-sized
bow can be made with one and a half or
two yards of silk at Is. lid. per yard. The silk
should be cut on the cross in strips about nine
inches wide and then joined together in one
length. Hem the edges with sewing silk the
same colour and then make up the bow the same
way as in ribbon. If the bow requires wiring,
make a fold at the edge of the silk and stitch
along twice to form a casing, then slip in a silk
•Trire before making up the bow.
When bows are made of piece velvet the
material must bo cut on the cross and joined in
the same way as for a silk bow. When making
the loops, fold and pleat through two thicknesses,
as if done separately as in ribbon the wTong side
of the velvet would show too much. Velvet bows
are often lined with silk or ribbon of the same
or a contrasting coloiu" ; when this is done the
bow should be made up as a ribbon bow.
Lace Bows. - Laco insertion made into a largo
bow makes a very effective trimming for a hat.
The lace should always be wired before making
it up. Use fine lace wire to match in colour if
the lace is fine, and tlie ordinary silk N^-ire for
a strong make and when a very firm bow is
required. Fix the wire into position with a loose
button-hole stitch along both sides of the laco
on the wrong side and across the ends, which
are generally mitred. Make up the bow in the
same way as a ribbon bow.
The Butterfly Bow. - This kind of bow should
be made fairly small, as it is supposed to repre-
sent a butterfly. It consists of two loops and
two upstanding ends in the
centre. Make it in the same
way as other bows, only com-
mence with a loop instead of
an end. Malce a second loop
the same size and lying in
the opposite direction, and
then a tliird exactly in the
middle of these two. Sew the
end under and stab stitch through the root to
make it very secure. Place a tie-over through
the third loop, pulling tlie loop sharply up, and
cut slanting across to form the two ends.
The Alsatian Bow. - This is made in a slightly
different manner from other bows, and when
finished it has a very flat appearance. It is
made with two loops each side and a broad
Butterfly Bow.
Alsatian Bow.
tic-over, and is used for sailor hats of all sizes,
for ttu-ned-down mushroom shapes, and also
for niu-ses' bonnets.
Cut off two lengths of ribbon, one length four
inches longer than the other. Take erch piece
separately, and fold the cut edges to the centre
so that they just touch. Then lay the one on
the top of the other, and pleat them together
once in the centre, stitch into position, and
cover the stitches with a broad tie-over.
To Finish the Ends of Ribbon. - This may bo
done in the following different ways : -
(1) By cutting them across diagonally.
(2) By leaving them straight and fraying out
some of the silk to form a fringe. If a small
piece of the solvedgo is cut off at each side this
can be done quite easily.
(3) By making a wide hem at the ends and
three or four pin tucks (very small) just below it.
(4) By cutting the end like a fish tail.
(5) By embroidering or braiding a small
design on the ribbon.
Lace Quills. - These are usually made of piece
HOME MILLINERY
439
lace. Pieces left over from making the yoke of
a blouse or dress will often be enough to make
very pretty quills. A piece of lace nine inches
long and about two inches wide will
make one of a nice size.
First of all cut out a paper pattern
the shape of a qmll, place it on the lace,
taking care that the pattern of the lace
comes well in the centre of the quUl.
Cut round pattern, leaving quarter-inch
turnings, wire all round with silk wire,
turning the quarter-inch turnings over
the wire. Leave about three inches
of wire at both ends and twist them
together to make a stem. Cover the
edge of quiU on the right side with
fancy braid, rucliing, straw, jet, or
any other fancy trimming.
LaceQmlL Rosettes.- There are two kinds of
icsettes, those formed of a succession
of loops of ribbon or ribbon velvet, and those
made of silk, tulle, or net, &c.
To Make a Ribbon Rosette. - ^Rosettes can be
made of any width ribbon from one inch to sis
inches wide ; whatever the width the making is
exactly the same.
Commence as in fig. 21 and make a loop,
then make a second loop quarter of an inch from
Fia. 21.
the first one, and continue making loops in this
way until there are a sufficient number for a
rosette of the size reqioired (fig. 22).
Cut a small circle of net or buclo-am and wire
round, then fix the loops to this, as in fig. 23,
beginning at the outer edge and working towards
Fio. 23.
Ra. 21.
the centre. It should have a nice round com-
pact appearance when finished (fig. 24).
Cross way Silk Rosette. - Cut the silk on the
cross the width required and join pieces together
until you get sufficient length. Fold the edges
together and gather along with a strong cotton.
Draw up and fix on a round foundation of net
or buckram, commencing at the outside edge and
working towards the centre (figs. 25 and 26).
Tulle Rosette. - The tulle should be used on
the straight. For a fairly large rosette take
one yard of tulle and fold it lengthways. Make
the first fold the depth required, then make
another fold on top, then another and another,
and so on until all the material is used, pleating
it up Uke a fan (fig. 27). Pin the folds into posi-
tion and put in a gathering tliread at the lower
edge. Draw up and sew together or fix on
foundation. The rosette will now have rather a
fiat appearance, as the folds wLU cling together,
so pull it out to make it look round and fluffy.
Rosette of Narrow Ribbon. - These should be
moiinted on a small round of stiff net or muslin.
Tack the ribbon on this in small loops, commenc-
ing at the outside edge and working towards the
centre. Make the loops stand up as much as
possible, and let those in the noddle be a Uttle
longer and higher than those at the edges. Tliis
makes a neat tight-looking rosette suitable for
the trimming of children's bonnets and hats.
SEWING ON TRIMMINGS
All trimmings must be sewn on with as few
stitches as possible and these few stitches must
be firm and strong. The sewing must never be
overdone ; if too many stitches are used, the
trimmings will have a set and ugh' appearance,
instead of being light and graceful. This is
especially noticeable in the sewing on of flowers
and feathers.
Feathers and Quills. - First sew the quill of the
feather on to a small piece of stiff net or buckram
440
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
(fig. 28). Then pin it in position on the hat vrith
a hat-pin. Do not put the pin through the
feather itaelf, but put it first into the hat, then
over the feather and into the hat again. \Vlien
making a hat for yourself tliis sliould be done
before the glass. Then having fixed
the feather in the right position,
stab-stitch it through the net,
taking the needle backwards and
forwards until the feather is quite
secure. Fix the tip of the feather
in position with a tie-stitch. First
tie the cotton on to the tip of the
feather (fastening it on to one of
the cotton loops at the back if it
is an ostrich plume), leaving an
end, then take a stitch through the
Flo. 28. ^^^ ^^^ bring the needle back again.
Tie the two ends of the cotton
together in a firm knot and cut off. The feather
must not on any account be tied tightly
down.
Flowers must be arranged as naturally and
as artistically as possible. Small flowers, such
as violets, cowslips, forget-me-nots, button roses,
&c., look best when arranged in clusters and
the large flowers in sprays. Cut off any un-
necessary length of stem ; bend up the remainder
and sew over and over on to the hat. Fix the
flowers themselves into position with a tie-stitch.
The heavier flowers should be mounted on a
wire.
In wiring, carry the wire up the length of the
stem to the flower itself, then wind it round the
stem and bring it down to the bottom again.
When flowers are wired they do not require so
much sewing to the hat, as they keep so much
firmer.
When many flowers are used it is better to
make them up first into a spray or wTeath,
using fine wire to fasten them together, and
then tie -stitch them here and there on to
the hat.
Ruching. - Sew this on to the hat from behind
or take the stitches through the pleats where
they will not be seen.
A Rouleau of Velvet, &c. - This should be
slip-stitched on to the hat with a fine needle and
silk the same colour as the hat.
Bows. - Put the needle through the back part
of the tie-over and stab-stitch it through the
hat. Repeat tliia several times until the root
of the bow is secure. Then arrange the loops
becomingly, handling thorn lightly, and fix them
in position with invisible tie-stitches.
A RIVER OR COUNTRY HAT
Material Required. - A hat shape, IJ yards
muslin embroidery 20 inches wide or 1 yard 36
inches wide, 1 yard plain muslin, trinuning
of ribbon or flowers.
Making. - Buy a simple hat shape in buckram
or spartra similar to fig. 29. Spartra is the
better material of the two, as it does not spoil
so readily with damp. Although it is possible
to make these shapes at home, they can now be
bought so cheaply that it is scarcely worth the
trouble. A hat for the river or country should
bo trimmed in such a way that it will not got out
of order quickly, therefore it is better to have
something quite simple, and if colour is intro-
duced it should be capable of change to suit
Fig. 29.
various costumes. Nothing is prettier for the
purpose than white embroidered muslin, which
can easily be washed or cleaned when it be-
comes soiled.
Lay the embroidered muslin on the table with
the right side uppermost and place the hat shape
on the top with the front to one of the corners,
so as to have the material for the front on the
cross. Cut round, allowing an extra half-inch for
turnings. Remove the hat, mark the size of the
crown in the centre, and cut out, again allow-
ing half an inch for turnings. (In order to get
the exact size of the brim and crown a piece of
paper maj' be pinned on to the shape, cut out,
and then used as a pattern.) This piece is for
covering the upper brim, so cut a piece the same
size for underneath. Line the two brim pieces
with plain muslin and tack together. Slip the
material for the upper brim over the hat and
notch the inner edge to fit the base of the crown.
Tack the notches down to the crown of the hat.
If the brim of the hat bends down very much
it will be necessary to cut the material at the
back and make a seam to make it lie smoothly.
Stretch the embroidery well over the brim of the
hat, fold the turning over the edge, and pin to
keep it in position. Catch-stitch down to the
\vire or buckram shape with even stitches. Lay
the under-brim piece of embroidery on to the
shape and fix into position wth pins. Notch the
inner rim and sow the notches up to the inside
of crown. Make a turning on the wTong side of
the outer rim and slip-stitch round to edges of
top covering, commencing at the back of the hat.
The edge may bo further finished with a rouleau
of velvet or a narrow braid.
To Cover the Crown. - Cut a round of the em-
broidery eighteen to twenty inches in diameter,
line it with plain muslin and gather round the
edges with strong cotton (fig. 30). Draw up and
slip over the crown of the hat. Tack round edges
close to the brim, and put a few stitches in the
crown to keep fulness in position. Or, if pre-
ferred, the crown of the hat may be covered quite
HOME MILLINERY
441
plainly by stretching it down to the base with
the fulness arranged in email pleats. Put in
head-lining before trimming.
FiQ. 30.
Trimming. - This may be made of ribbon or
flowers, or a coloured scarf may be tied round
and finished with a bow and ends at the side.
Fig. 31 shows a trimming of ribbon, and this
ria. 31
could easily be made up separately from the hat,
and if two or three were made up in different
colours of ribbon they could simply be fastened
to the hat with a strong pin and changed when
required to suit different costumes. A wreath
of pretty flowers or of flowers and ribbon could
be used in the same way.
FLOWER TOQUES
The " flower toque " is an almost universal
favovu-ite for dainty wear, and when properly
made looks very smart and pretty.
A variety of flowers can be used for making
a toque of the kind, and they may be chosen in
accordance with the season - primroses, violets or
hyacinths for the spring, roses for the summer,
geraniums for the autumn. For the last-named
season very pretty little toques have been made
of grapes ; in fact, the home worker will find
that there is abundant material to hand with
which to carry out pretty ideas, and the more
her dexterity increases, the more ideas she will
get. The flowers can be used either with or with-
out foliage.
The foundation of the toque may be either
of wire (green wire if it can be procured) or
stiff millinery net.
Although the directions given below apply
specially to the making of a toque of roses, the
method is very much the same whatever kind of
flower is used.
A Rose Toque. - Required. - A wire or net
shape, roses, foliage, green tulle or net, ribbon op
velvet.
Method. - Choose a shape that suits you well ;
it should be rather small in size. Prepare it first
by swathing it or covering it over with green
tuUe or net of the same tone as the foUage used.
Then commence sewing on the flowers. Cut the
stems of the roses and leaves quite short so that
they can be sewn flat to the shape. Commence
at the top of the crown and sew the roses tight
through the centre to the shape. Place them
close together until the whole of the top ia
Fig. 32.
covered with flowers, introducing a few leaves
if wished (fig. 32).
If there is a distinct turned-up brim to the
toque, tliis might be covered with foliage only
or with foliage and tulle, and a twist of tulle
should be put romid between the crown and
brim. Or if the brim is very narrow and bend-
ing downwards, it might be covered with dark
green or black velvet, which is always becoming
next the face.
The toque may be left plain, or finished off
Fia. 33.
with a smart bow of ribbon or velvet at the side
(fig. 33), or with loops of narrow velvet and a
442
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
standing-up spray of roses, or with an artificial
oeprey, according to what is most becoming.
FUR IN MILLINERY
Fur was never more fashionable than it is
to-day, and it is employed largely both in mil-
linery and dressmaking.
The fact of its being so much in demand has
raised its price considerably, and it is not every
one who can afford a new hat or toque of the
most fasliionable shape every year. But it is
wonderful what can be done with odds and ends
of fur, and how, in millinery especially, they can
be utilised and made into something quite
stylish. All small pieces of fur should be kept
as well as old fur ties and muffs, as they can
often be made into a toque when good for
nothing else. Or, if not sxiflficient to make the
whole hat, they might at least cover the
brim, while the crown could be made of cloth
or velvet to match the costiune that is being
worn.
The Cutting of Fur. - Fur should always be cut
on the •wrong side and with a sharp-pointed
knife. Place the fur on the table with the skin
side uppermost and mark with a coloured pencil
Cutting Fur.
or chalk where you wish the cutting to come.
Then get some one to hold the fur stretched out
while you cut through by the marked Une.
To Join Fur. - Place the two pieces with right
sides together, being careful that the fur all lies
one way, or the join will show. Place a piece of
cardboard two or three inches long between the
pieces, with the edge close to where the join is
to be. Push down the hairs of the fur so as to
leave edges of skin clear to sew through. Then
overcast the two pieces together with a fur-
sewing needle and strong sowing cotton, No. 24
or 30. Make the stitches rather deep and close
together and draw them tight, moving along the
cardboard as rfriuircd.
To Make a Fur Toque. - Required. - Pieces of
fur, a wire shape, brown tulle, brown satin.
Method. - A wire frame of the turban shape
is the one most suitable for a fur toque. First
cover the frame all over with a thin brown
lining or net, then prepare a strip of fur wide
enough to cover the brim and long enough to go
round. Join it into a circle and place it on the
frame, oi'ranging that the join comes where
it will not show. Pin it in position and then
tack with a turning over the top and underneath
the brim. The under port of the brim wliich
comes next the hair is generally made of brown
satin, as it is cooler for the head, and also because
fvir would BO quickly wear if it were on that part.
Then take a piece of fur large enough to cover
the crown, and do not cut it up more than is
necessary, as next year, when remodelling, the
hat will be much easier to arrange if there ia
Fur Toque.
some allowance for alteration. Stretch the fur
smoothly over the crown, arranging any fulness
in small pleats at the sides. Tack it in position
from the wrong side as far as possible to avoid
catching in the hair with the cotton. A fold of
tulle or chiffon should be placed between the
brim and crown to cover edges. Finish off with
a pretty feather mount, a handsome quill, a
rosette, or other ornament, according to fasluon
and individual taste, or, if preferred, the toque
may be left perfectly plain.
THE MAKING OF STRAW HATS
These are made either by hand or machine.
As the home-made straw hat will not be subjected
to the stiffening and blocking process that the
bought one receives, it will be more suc';essful
if made over a wire frame, wearing better and
keeping its shape longer than if made without
this support.
As said before, shapes can be bought so cheaply
- the average price for a wire one being Is., or,
if made to order. Is. 6d. to 2s. - ^that it does not
repay the trouble to make one, and the amateur
always finds this a difficult job.
It wU be wise to commence with a simple
shape similar to fig. 34, ■which has no peculiari-
ties in form, and if this is a success something
more difficult may be attempted, and a close
examination of any straw hat will show you how
to proceed.
Choose a frame which suits you well, light in
weight and of the size you wish. The straw for
covering is sold in bundles of twelve yards, in
any colour and many different styles, and the
HOME MILLINERY
443
price will vary from Is. to 6s. per bundle, accord-
ing to quality and make. Two bundles will
cover a medium-sized hat, or three might cover
two smaller ones. Choose a nice phable straw,
as it will be easier to work with than the stiffer
makes.
If the straw is very stiff and dry it is a good
plan to moisten it first by wrapping it in a damp
cloth and leaving it over-night. This wiU enable
it to be stretched and pulled more readily without
breaking. If the straw is a kind that unravels
quickly, the end should be wound round with
strong thread of the same colour before com-
mencing.
To Cover the Brim. - First pin the straw
neatly round the edge on the upper side of the
brim, starting at the back and fixing it to the
outside wire. The straw must be perfectly flat
and lie easily. Sew on to the outside wire,
taking small stitches on the right or upper side
and larger underneath. In fixing the second
row do not cut off the straw, but let it continue
on. The second row is sewn to the inside edge
of the first row of straw. Continue sewing
round and round until the crown is reached,
lapping each row one quarter of an inch over the
Fia. 34.
edge of previous row hiding the stitches as far
as possible beneath the pattern of straw (fig. 34).
If the brim is wider at the front than at the
back, it should be M'idened by a few extra rows
of straw put on and sloped away under the outer
row at the back or sides of the hat.
Cover the under-brim in the same way, starting
at the back and working up to the head-line.
When fixing the straw on under-brim the needle
should always be put in slanting, so that small
stitches are made on both sides.
To Cover the Crown. - The top of the crown
should be covered with a circle or plaque of
straw made in the hand and not
straight on to the shape. To make
this plaque, wind the cotton tightly
round the straw to make a firm
point to start with, then draw the
braid of straw around this to form
the centre, easing it in to make it
flat. In the loosely made straws
a drawing thread is sometimes put
at the edge of the straw to facilitate
the process, or the outer edge may
be stretched (fig. 35).
When the centre circle is well formed, continue
sewing the straw in rows round and round, taking
small stitches on the right side and larger ones
on the WTcng. Each row must be stitched
Fio. 35.
and eased to the previous one so that they lie
perfectly flat. If this top piece is made too
tight it will bulge out when placed on the frame.
At the beginning the rows should overlap each
other considerably, and as the circle increases
the edge may be extended nearer to the edge
of the preceding row. When large enough,
fasten off the end of the straw so that it will
not unravel, and slope it gradually under the
last row. Make the plaque about half an inch
more in diameter than the top of the frame,
and then sew it on to the wires in two or three
places.
Side-Band. - This is formed by sewing a row
of straw to the edge of the crown piece, com-
mencing at the side or back, or where the join
is likely to be hidden by trimming. Leave an
end of straw of about one inch at the beginning,
and this can be caught and covered by the second
row. Continue sewing one row under the other
until the side is covered, easing the straw
smoothly on to the shape and finishing the end
by turning it up under the preceding row. Tack
the side-band to the last row of the brim, and
the hat will be ready for its head-lining (p. 432)
and trimming.
Trimming. - ^This style of hat may be trinuned
in a variety of ways, but for heird wear there is
Fig. 36.
nothing more useful than a scarf drapery or a
good ribbon trimming with a styhsh bow at the
side or front (fig. 36).
MUFFS
The tendency at present is for muffs to be very
large and either oblong or square ; but fashion
changes very rapidly, and the directions given
below are for an ordinary medium-sized m"iff
which can easily be manufactured at home.
Although black satin is used in the construction
of it, the material may be varied to suit indivi-
dual taste and requirements. Black or other
coloured velvet, for instance, trimmed with fur
is always effective, or a piece of the same
444
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
material as the costume worn would also look
well. Tlien, again. £or evening wear a lighter-
looking muff might be made of crlpe de chine
edged with marabout or ermine.
The Uning may be made of any coloured silk
which will tone with the outside. A white or
Ught-coloured lining is always best for smart
wear, as it does not soil the gloves.
Strips of fvu- from one to four inches wide can
be bought at most of the big drapers, the price
of course varying according to the value of the
special kind of fur.
Mofl of Black Satin and Fur
Required. - 1| yards black satin, fur edging, IJ
yards coarse calico, down or wadding.
Method. - Divide the length of satin into two
equal parts, measuring 27 inches by 20 inches,
and sew each of these pieces together by the
raw edges, so that they form a round. Cut
two pieces of calico, about half an inch smaller
in length and width than the satin, and sew
them together in the same way. Slip the two
calico circles one inside the other, and stitch
the two together at one end. Fill equally all
round with down, and sew up the other end.
Slip this down bed into one of the satin circles,
turn the raw edges of the satin over on to the
Average measurements would he
Round face .
Forehead to back of neck
Round neck from ear to ear
calico, and fix firmly into position. Sew on the
fur round each end, making the joins come at the
bottom of the muff. Slip in the lining and hem it
in half an inch from the edge (fig. 37).
Mtthod. - The shape shown in illustration is
very comfortable, easy to make, and requires
little fitting. Throe measurements are required
- round the child's face, across the back of the
neck from ear to ear, and from the forehead to
the back of neck. When possible it ia easier to
take the measurements from an old bonnet, and
to make each new bonnet a trifle larger than the
last.
14 inches.
11 "
11 ..
Cut out a paper pattern similar to fig. 38,
join at the notches, pin or tack up the seams and
try on the child. If it fits veil, unpin the
pattern and cut out in the satin, muslin, and
sarcenet. All the pieces must be the same size,
and turnings must be allowed everywhere
Fio. 38.
except at the seams where the notches are-
First tack the satin and muslin together, fix
the side seams and sew them firmly together.
Turn the satin over the muslin all round the raw
edges and catch-stitch the raw edges of the satin
to the muslin.
To make the revers, take a piece of muslin
the length of the front of the bonnet from end to
end and iour inches wide, and shape as in fig. 39.
Then cut out in satin, allowing an exti'a half -inch
for turnings, and place the two together, tacking
the satin down over the muslin.
The revers can now be embroidered with any
simple pattern, or it may be trimmed with a
ruching of ribbon, passementerie, or swansdown
edging. After it has been trimmed, line in the
back with sarcenet and fix it to the bonnet.
Make two rosettes (see p. 439) out of the
ribbon, sew them to each side of the bonnet,
and use the remainder of the
ribbon for the strings. Cut one
string longer than the other,
and sow in at each side of the
bonnet on the wrong side. Join
up the scams in the sarcenet
head-lining, slip it inside, turn
in the raw edges one-quarter inch
from the edges of the satin, and
hem neatly all the way round
(fig- ^^)- , , Fia. 3U.
A quilling of chiffon or ribbon
can be put round the front of the bonnet ; it
gives it a softer appearance, but does not suit
all children.
This shape of bonnet may be made up very
prettily in other materials ; they are often made
of material to match the ooat the child ia wear-
HOME MILLINERY
445
ing. Embroidered muslin is especially pretty,
and should either be left without lining or lined
with a very thin cambric which will wash easily.
In winter, if the bonnet is required warmer, it
may be interlined with flannel or delaine, or
with a layer of wadding or domet. Although
the inside lining is generally made of sarcenet,
any soft material can be used, such as satin or
silk from the lining of a dress or coat.
Baby Boy's Hat (age six months)
Materials required. - J yard satin, 20 inches
wide, 6 yards satin ribbon about 2| to 3 inches
wide (3| yards to be used for the ruching, 1|
yards for strings), J yard stiff muslin, J yard
sarcenet, J yard book muslin.
The only measurement required for this is
the size round the child's head. An average size
would be 21 inches.
Any kind of material can be used for this style
of hat as long as it is not stiff and hard. Satin
wears well, as the dust does not cling to it. Boys'
hats are usually made with less trimming than
baby girls' bonnets.
Making. - After having measured the child's
head, cut a piece of muslin that length plus
tvirnings and 2| inches wide. Fold in half
widthways and then join into a circle.
Twenty inches of satin is needed for the
crown of hat. Cover the band with the satin
that is left over, both inside and outside, tack
the outside on Srmly, but leave the satin inside
loose, as this is hemmed down after the band has
been fixed on the crown.
Take the 20 inches of satin and make it
into a circle ; in the middle of this circle cut
a round hole 3^ inches in diameter. Gather
round the edges of tliis hole, and fix it on to
a button about the size of a shilling. A piece
Fia. 40.
of cardboard will do to make the button, and
it should be covered with two thicknesses of
satin.
Now line the top piece with the book muslin.
Lay the satin as flat as possible on the muslin
and cut the muslin the same si^e. Gather the
two together one half -inch from the raw edges.
Draw up to the siz;e of the head-band (fig. 40).
For the Head-lining. - Cut a round 14 inches
in diameter from the half-yard sarcenet, gather
round the edge also to the size of the head-
band. Tack it into the satin crown. The crown
is now ready to be fixed on to the band. Pin on
the band, letting the raw edges of the crown come
between the band and the satin lining ; stitch
on firmly.
Make a ruching of the satin ribbon (see p. 436),
and sew on to the band. Fix on the strings
Fia. 41.
at each side so that they come just underneath
the ruch, and make the right-hand string rather
longer than the left. Hem up the satin on the
inside of band, and the hat is finished (fig. 41).
Silk Hat for Little Girl
Required. - 2 to 2J yards washing silk, 2 rings
of washing wire, 1 large reel of sewing silk, ^
yard of stiff net, ^ yard book muslin.
Making. - Silk hats, or Liberty hats as they
are usually called, are generally made of wash-
ing silk, such as China or Japanese silk. The only
measurements required are the size round the
head and the width of the brim.
Cut a lengthwise strip of the silk 11 inches
deep, and this will make a brim 5 inches wide
when finished. Fold in half lengthways and fix
with a few pins. Measure one inch from the
fold and half an inch from the raw edges, and put
in a row of machine stitching or a row of running
in both places. Measure half-way between these
two rows and put in another row. Then put
in more rows as in diagram, so as to form casings
to take in washing wire. At one end of the
Fia. 42.
strip do not take the stitching quite to the end,
as it will be easier to join it to the other end if
this is left plain (fig. 42). Then insert the wire
446
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
in the casings, putting in two pieces at the same
time where the casings come together.
Join the head wire to the siae required to fit
head, and then join the others bo that they he
in a flat circle when placed on a table. Join the
silk neatly over the wres by shp-stitching.
Next cut a band in stifl net, the size of the
head in length (average twenty inches) plus one
inch for joining and two and a half inches deep.
Wire tins top and bottom, and cover with a
circle of stiff net or buckram, and bind the lower
wire with a piece of silk. Fix the brim to this
crown by stab-stitching it through.
The crown piece of the hat is formed by cutting
a round of silk eighteen to twenty inches in
diameter and gathering it round the edges. Shp
this over the hat and fix it round the base of
crown. This round of silk may be embroidered,
tucked, or have insertion let in as desired.
Put in a head-lining and then trim the hat
with ribbon or some of the silk with which it is
made. If piece silk is used a simple twist round
the hat with a nice full rosette at one side and a
smaller one catching up the brim will be all that
is necessau-y (fig. 42). Or in ribbon, a twist round
Fig. 43.
and a nice soft bow in the front or at the side.
A rosette of soft lace with a wreath of daisies
or tiny pink rosebuds makes another dainty
trimming for those who prefer flowers. Silk
elastic should bo fastened to the inside of the
hat or white ribbon ties if they are preferred.
The trimming should be of the simplest and
daintiest description.
VEILS
A Wedding Veil. - Unless this is made of real
lace, Brussels net is usually bought for the
purpose. Two yards of net two yards wide will
make a fairly large veil. A hem two inches
wide should be made on the right side of the
veil. Be careful in laying the hem to turn over
two inches twice and not to make a narrow
fold to begin with or the raw edges would show
tlirough the thin net. Pay particular attention
to the corners. The hem should be kept in
position with a row of running stitches made
in filoselle silk. A small design may be em-
broidered in the corners, or a narrow fancy
border all the way round looks very effective.
The veil may also be decorated with sprays of
flowers.
When real lace is used for a wedding veil it
will be very much more becoming if it is lined
with the finest white chiffon.
A wedding veil can be worn over the face
or not as desired ; the style of wearing it alters
somewhat each year. It is generally kept in
position with a wreath of orange flowers.
When the veil is worn over the face, two
small wreaths are sometimes worn, one under
the veil and the other on the top, then when
the veil is thrown back, the flowers imdemeath
make a softer line round the face.
When the veil is worn off the face it is eithef
twisted round the head in the form of a tiu-ban
or pleated up in a manner to suit the wearer.
A Confirmation Veil. - This can either be made
of Brussels net like a wedding veil or of fine
lawn. One and a quarter yards of fine lawn at
Is. per yard would bo sufficient. A narrow hem
sliould be made all the way round.
Make a mark in the centre of one of the sides
and sew on a tape or ribbon twelve incV.os at
each side of this centre mark. These tapes are
tied at the back of the neck under thj veil,
and a kind of cap is formed in this way.
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
A WOMAN should cherish her health as her most valued possession, for good health is assuredly
as potent a factor in promoting her happiness as ill-health is in destroying it. It is one of a
woman's first duties therefore towards herself and towards her household to keep in that perfect
physical state of well-being which does so much to help her with the trials and wonies of
everyday life, for a healthy body and a healthy mind are as a rule synonymous. The healthy
woman, by very reason of her vitality, permeates cheerfulness and happiness around her. WTiilst
good health is the most potent minimiser of all our troubles, ill-health may be said to be the
originator of most of the evils of ill -temper, irritability, and morbid despondency. Hence, if we
would be happy, first and foremost it should be our aim to keep well.
How to keep well. - By strict attention to
the laws of hygiene much may be done in
the way of keeping our health and guarding
against the inroads of disease. Yet how many
women are there who possess even a superficial
knowledge of the principles of hygiene ? and
how many more, having this knowledge, go so far
as to put it into practice ? Tliis may be due in
the main to an ignorance of the importance of
hygiene, and a failure to realise the fact that
it is only possible to maintain good health by
a strict observance of the fundamental health
laws.
Cleanliness may be regarded as the basio
principle of hygiene. Tliis applies not only
to cleanliness of person, wliich is of course
essential, but not sufficient in itsoLE for the
preservation of health. In order to keep well
it is necessary also that we should have pure
food, pure air, pure water - cleanliness and
wholesomeness, in fact, in all our surroundings.
Neglect any of these essential factors and the
health, and through the health the appearance,
will suffer in the long run.
It should be a woman's aim in life not oiily
to be healthy in body and mind, but also to
always look her best. The two as a rule go
together. A healthy body and a healthy mind
have more effect upon the personal appearance
than can at first be appreciated. All successful
culture of beauty must have for its foundation
that purity and wholesomeness of living wliich
in its tuiTi forms the groundwork of good health.
Of what avail, for instance, is the possession of
classic features if the beauty of the face is
marred by a muddy complexion and unsightly
skin blemishes ; or of what use a well-built
figure if it is hidden by stooping shotilders and
an ungainly gait ? On the other hand, a woman
with the bloom of health upon her cheeks, and
the signs of physical well-being in her upright
cari'iage and the elasticity of her step is indeed
" a thing of beauty and a joy for ever," however
plain and commonplace her features may be.
Personal Cleanliness. - Personal cleanliness is
essential for the woman who would not only
keep hygienically sound in body, but who wishes
also to enjoy the aid to beauty furnished by
a clear and good complexion. It is useless to
expect the complexion to be good when the caro
of the physique and person is totally neglected.
Strict attention in the first instance is required
to the eliminating organs of the body. It
should be seen that these are regularly made to
do their duty. Where gastric disturbances are
habitual no amount of external care will free the
complexion from blemishes. As soon as the
skin becomes muddy and unhealthy-looking,
therefore, the first step is to ascertain whether
there is any functional disorder to which this
state of things may be attributed. ]\Iost often
it can be traced to faulty digestion, which is in
its turn attributable either to tmstutable diet
or insufficient mastication of food. Insufficient
mastication of food is often caused by bad and
diseased teeth, which are so rendered powerless
to perform their natural functions. The care
of the teeth plays an important part in our
personal hygiene, and it is a subject which is
fully dealt with on p. 464.
BATHS
The first consideration in regard to her
personal cleanliness should be the daily
bath. The temperattu'e of the bath should
of course be adapted to indi%'idual require-
ments, but it must be remembered that
the warm bath with a liberal use of soap is
essential for cleansing purposes. A cold bath,
where it can be taken, acts more as a stimulant
than a cleansing operation, but it disagrees with
447
448
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
many people, and regular cold bathing with
some would do more harm than good. An
unfeiiling test as to whether the cold bath is
beneficial to the individual can be found in the
reaction which sets in afterwards. If a glow of
heat is felt after bathing it may be taken as a
sure sign that it has done good. If, however,
Bhivering fits occur, the cold tub should be
altogether avoided. INIuch of the stimulating
effect of a cold bath may be obtained by thor-
oughly sponging the body with cold water after
a warm bath has been taken. This procedure
is effective in nainimising the tendency to catch
cold, which often arises from leaving a warm
bathroom for a room of a much cooler atmo-
sphere. Cold baths are baths of a tempera-
ture below 60 degrees Falirenheit ; warm baths
are from 92 to 98 degrees Fahrenheit, whilst
hot baths exceed the latter temperat\ire. In
Turkish and Russian baths variations of tem-
perature play an important part in the cleansing
process, producing a copious action of the skin
which effectually cleanses it of all its impurities
and secretions. These baths, however, prove
entirely unsuitable to some constitutions, and
should not be taken excepting under medical
advice. Where they can be taken the general
effect upon the tone of the skin and complexion
is most beneficial.
" Do not be sparing with the soap and water "
is a good maxim to bo observed in taking the
daily bath. Where the water is hard it should
Loofah Bath-Strap.
be softened with a little borax, some Scrubb's
Cloudy Anamonia, or a prepared water softener,
such aa Lavender Bath Salts. A few drops of
toilet vinegar or eau de Cologne also added
will have a wonderfully refreshing effect. Good
vigorous rubbing and scrubbing are the next
essentials. A loofah bath-strap or a flesh-brush
should be brought into requisition for this pur-
pose. The friction of either will cause the skin
to feel a healthy glow. Then again, a brisk rub
Flesh-Brush.
c'own with a large bath towel when the bathing
process is over will give a pleasant feeling of
invigoration, doing more than anything else to
stimulate the pores of the skin to healthy
action.
Hip and Sponge Baths. - Most houses and flats
possess bathrooms in these days of up-to-date
conveniences. Failing a regular bathroom, the
daily ablution should be performed in a hip or
a sponge bath. One advantage possessed by
these is that they admit of the bath being taken
into the bedroom, and thus all risk of catching
cold from being exposed to varying atmospheres
in going backwards and forwards to and from
a bathroom is obviated. These small baths
can be had at all prices ranging from 10s. and
upwards.
Rubber Camp-Baths. - ^For travelling, rubber
camp-baths are very useful. Those are usually
made to fold into a small compass and can be
packed in waterproof cases. They range in
price for lis. 6d. and iipwards, according to size.
Sea-Baths. - Sea-bathing is very invigorating,
and when making a stay at the seaside it is as
well to bathe as much as possible. If bathing
in the sea does not agree with you, the same
symptoms of shivering that manifest themselves
after a cold bath are apparent. Under these
circumstances, needless to add, sea-bathing
should be avoided.
It is unwise to let the salt water get into
the hair when bathing, for it has the effect of
rendering it harsh and dry, and giving it a faded
appearance. Before going into the water the
hair should be tightly coiled and pinned on to
the top of the head, and a well-fitting waterproof
or oilskin cap worn over it. This is a precaution
which should be taken by every woman who
wishes to keep her hair bright and glossy at
the seaside. Constant saturation of the hair by
salt water during the stmtimer months h£is such
ill effects upon its appearance that it sometimes
takes months to bring it once more to its normal
condition.
Salt Baths at Home. - A salt bath may \je
enjoyed at home by adding salt to the bath
water in the proportion of four pounds of salt
to every sixteen gallons of water. Brills & Tid-
man Sea Salts are very good for the purpose.
They can be obtained at Is. 4Jd. and 9Jd. the
dozen packets respectively. Ordinary table salt
can also be used in this way.
Care of Sponges. - Sponges may be kept in
very good condition if they are not allowed to
lie in soapy water and the soap is well rinsed out
of them after use. It is better, too, if they can
be hung up to air and not left lying in a damp
condition. A piece of tape can easily be tlireaded
through the sponge and tied so as to form a loop
to hang it up by.
If a sponge should become slimy and sticky
it can be cleaned by soaking in salt and water
or strong ammonia and water. Allow it to
remain in either of these for several hours,
squeezing it occasionally, then wring out and
rinse in plenty of cold or tepid water.
THE SKIN AND COMPLEXION
Wrinkles and their Causes. - The skin is a
mirror, as it were, in which all the defects in our
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
449
personal hygiene are plainly featured. Want of
cleanliness, clironic stomach disorders, such as
indigestion and constipation - sedentary Uving,
unrelieved by any sort of exercise - all show
themselves in the dull and muddy complexions
and unsightly skin blemishes vritli which so
many women are afflicted, and which they so
often try in vain to cure. Hygienic care of the
body is the first essential for the woman who
wishes her skin to be pure and her complexion
healthy. Perfect cieanMness internally and ex-
ternally must be the rule for those who wish
their complexion to be pure and healthy.
Habitual constipation is one of the most re-
lentless foes the complexion can have. It
arises from a variety of causes of which sedentary
habits, want of exercise, unsuitable diet are tho
most prolific.
A glass of pure cold water taken upon rising
in the morning, and half-an-hour before each
mealj a glass of hot water or lemon and water
before going to bed at night, a little fruit taken
at breakfast -time, gentle friction of the bowels
after the morning tub, a good walk in the open
air, and some simple physical exercises (p. 455),
together with strict attention to diet, will do
much towards ameliorating tliis state of affairs.
In many cases a glass of hot water taken upon
rising and half-an-hour before each meal is
efficacious.
Overwork and worry are powerful deter-
rents to all culture of beauty. No amount of
care can undo the havoc wrought by unstrung
nerves or a worrying disposition. Do not worry
over petty things. Remember that " every
cloud has its silver lining." There are times in
this Ufo, it is true, when trouble comes upon us
with a heavy hand, yet the minor, every-day
worries are more often than not of a woman's
own making, and it is the habitual worrying
of a discontented disposition which, more than
anything else, leaves its mark upon the face with
so remorseless a hand. Try and cultivate a
more cheerful outlook upon life if you would
permanently rid yotu'self of these vexing little
lines between the brows.
There are lines, however, that are imprinted
upon the face by laughter. These lines have a
character all their own - they give the face a
cheerful, happy expression, and add to rather
than detract from its beauty. But it is the
wrinkles that arise from impoverislunent of the
subcutaneous tissues caused by ill -health, faulty
hygiene, and worry, wliich we must set ourselves
to cure, in the first place, by removing tho cause ;
in tho second place by strengthening and
nourishing the skin and keeping it in good con-
dition with the aid of gentle massage treatment.
Very few women know how to wash their
faces properly. A mere superficial dab with a
soapy sponge is often deemed sufficient for the
purposes of cleanliness. The soap is not pro-
perly washed off and a hurried and perfunctory
drying serves to complete this portion of the
toilet. These women are surprised that their
skin becomes coarse and ill-nourished-looking,
besides showing a tendency to wrinkle. The
sldn of the face is constantly giving off waste
matter thi-ough its pores, besides receiving dust,
dirt, and other impurities upon its surface. By
the mistaken treatment thus described the pores
of the skin become clogged up with the soap
which is left to dry on th.e face, and are so
prevented from doing their eliminating work
properly - blackheads and pimples ai'e the in-
evitable result.
It is above all important that the face bo
washed in soft water. Hard water is most
deleterious in its effect upon the skin and com-
plexion. It can always be detected by the
difficulty in getting the soap to lather in it -
thick crusty flakes forming on the surface of
the water and clinging to the sides of the bath.
After washing in very hard water the skin
experiences a feeling of roughness which is
decidedly unpleasant. This alone should indi-
cate in one measui-e the injury that can be
done by its constant use.
Rain water is the best to use, but this is not
always available. Borax and oatmeal axe both
good water-softeners - boiling wiU also tend to
soften hard water to a certain extent. One of
the simplest of water-softeners, however, and
one of which the properties in this direction are
but Httle known, is to be found in lemon juice.
Two tea-spoonfuls of the juice of a lemon added
to a basinful of warm water will be found
sufficient. Lemon juice has the added recom-
mendation of being congenial to most skins,
whereas oatmeal and even borax would be too
drying for many. Oatmeal is especially suitable
for very greasy skins. The most pleasant way
to use it is to place a quantity in a small muslin
bag, sew this up, and place it in the water a
little time before it is required. The same bag
will do duty for three or four days, after which
the oatmeal will have to be renewed.
The face should be well washed in warm
soft water twice a day - in the morning and
at night. The night toilet is of the utmost
importance, as, if it is neglected, the dust and
dirt accumulated during the day will fill up tho
pores of the skin and prevent its healthy action.
A good pure soap and hot water sliould be used.
Sponges or face flannels should be thoroughly
clean. It is better, however, to wash the faco
with the hands, rubbing with a brisk circular
movement. In the morning toilet soap will not
be necessary. A few droi>s of tinctiu'e of benzoin
added to the water makes an excellent skin tonic.
When coming in from a walk, a game of tennis,
or any other similar exercise on a hot summer's
day, do not make the mistake of at once waslung
the face in cold water to get cool, as this is very
bad for the skin and complexion. Instead, rub
a very little cold cream into the skin ; allow
2f
450
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
this to remain on for a few minutes, then wash
off in soft warm water.
To Whiten Neck and Arms. - It is as well to
bathe the neck and eirnis in milk every night
for a few nights before going to a dance. When
going out in the evening the appearance of the
neck and arms will be much improved if, after
washing, glycerine and rose-water mixed in
equal proportions is well rubbed into the skin ;
then dust over with some good powder. Allow
this to remain on for some time, then Avipe
gently off, when the skin will be found to look
beautifully fresh and white.
Rough Elbows. - Tlie skin often assumes a
coarse and scaly appearance at the elbows, being
extremely rough to the touch. To remedy tliis,
in the first place the habit of leaning the elbows
upon desk or table must be abandoned. Plenty
of friction is necessary to rejuvenate the skin.
Rub some common salt well into the elbows at
night, then wash in warm water, and after drying
-apply a little cold cream. In the morning rub
bi'iskly with a good rough loofah.
For Red Arms. - ^Rub the arms every night
with diluted lemon juice in the proportion of
two-tliirds lemon and one-third water. Batliing.
the arms in milk at night-time is also an effica-
cious remedy.
MASSAGE
Every woman should know how to massage
her face and neck, as persistent massage serves
not only to keep the dreaded wrinkles at bay,
but also to give tone to the complexion, pre-
serve the contour of the face, and correct any
tendency to undue plumpness or leanness.
There is nothing like massage for filhng out
ugly hollows in the cheek and neck, or toning
down over-flabby cheeks, which are every bit
as unsightly as the unduly thin ones. Mas-
sage, to be effective, it should be remembered,
must be persistent. It is not sufficient to
practise it only when the inchnation seizes us.
Make a point of massaging the face thoroughly
once or twice a week, whilst gentle massage
movements should be used every night when
applj-ing skin food or other emoHient.
After having given the face its usual v,ash
with soap and warm water, dry it well, and with
the tips of the fingers apply a coating of good
skin food. Only use as much skin food as the
skin can comfortably absorb.
Now, seated in front of a mirror, it is time to
bejrin operations.
JMace the tips of the first and second fingers
of etich hand so that they meet in the centre of
the chin, begin massaging each side of the chin
from this point, continuing the movement up-
weu'ds and outwards, following the contour of
the face. All movements in face massage
should be circular and upwards. Rub the food
in gently, but firmly, with the tips of the fingers.
Next turn your attention to the lines which
are apt to form at the corners of the mouth. To
prevent or cure these, rub the sldn food in very
firmly with the palms of the liands with an
upward and circular movement, beginixing at
eacli side of the mouth and extending over the
cheek. This movement will also serve to fill
out the hollows in the clieeks if they are undulj'
thin, and reduce their plumpness if they are
inclined to be fat and flabby. After this move-
ment, gently tap the cheeks with the tips of
the flngors. Tliis will servo to give them tone,
stimulate the circulation, and have a beneficial
effect upon the complexion generally.
Then turn your attention to the httle lines
which form under and at the corners of the eyes.
All movements round the eyes sliould bo very
gentle, as the skin here is very elastic and incUned
to stretch.
Rest the tips of the first and second fingers
of each hand on the temple, and with the tips
of the second fingers massage under the eyes
from the nose and upwards to the temples
across the little network of ^v^inkles that form
at the corners of the eyes. If the skin wrinkles
very much under the touch of the fingers as the
movement is in process, it is a sign that the touch
is too heavy. The movement must be very
slow and very gentle - a rough movement ^vill
do more harm than good.
Now it is time to attack the horizontal
wrinkles which do so much to mar the beauty
of the forehead. Rub firmly across these
wrinkles with a hght, upward, and circular
movement ; rub persistently until the food has
worked its way well into the skin. Then with
the tips of the first and second fingers rub firmly
across these ugly little vertical Unes between
tlie brows, stretching the skin out smootWy.
The nose then requires its share of attention.
The pores of this organ are apt to become coeirse
and large. To correct this cover the finger-tips
with skin food and massage from the base of the
nostrils along each side of the nose upwards,
afterwards gently applying the skin food along
the nose and upwards towards the brows.
Now with a piece of clean wliite rag wipe
away all superfluous skin food from the pores.
For most skins it will be found advantageous
after this treatment to sponge the face in soft
warm water to which has been added from eight
to ten drops of tincture of benzoin or any other
good astringent skin tonic, drying it gently with a
soft towel.
Massaging the Neck. - Attention should be
given to the lines which form upon the neck
and to any tendency there may be to the
unsightly " double chin." Massage will correct
and prevent both.
Cover the neck with skin food, and with the
tips of the fingers rub gently across the horizontal
lines, which are often the result of wearing very
high or very stiff collars, then massage firmly
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
451
round the throat, afterwards gently tapping the
flesh under the chin several times. This will do
much to tone the flesh and prevent undue flabbi-
ness. Wipe off all superfluous skin food when
the massage is finished. After the massage the
following simple exercise will do much towards
strengthening the muscles of the neck and
checking any undue tendency to the formation
of a double chin. Crane the neck, stretching the
chin forward as far as it will go, then keeping it
still stretched ; bend the head slowly backwards
as far as it will go till it almost touches the
shoulders at the back, then bring the head
slowly forward again until the chin is allowed
to rest on the chest. Repeat the movement
several times, then vary it by turning the face
with the cliin raised in the same position first
to the right \intil the face is looking over the
right shoulder, and then to the left in the same
manner. Where the double chin is pronounced
skin foods should not be used; the neck should
bo well massaged with the fingers, and a cliin-
strap should be worn at night.
When the neck has become dark and dis-
coloured-looking through the constant wearing
of high collars and furs, rub a little lemon juice
diluted with water (one-third water to two-
thirds lemon juice) into the skin every night,
when it will soon regain its normal colour.
The benefits of face and neck massage have
now become so universally recognised that the
weekly visit to a " beauty specialist " forms an
estabhshed routine engagement for many women
of the wealthier classes who, instead of practising
complexion treatmcit at home, can afford to
pay for treatment by experts. HaK-an-ho\ir a
week spent at an estabUshment like Pomeroy's
in Bond Street, London, for face treatment and
massage will be found to have the most beneficial
results in preserving the healthy tone of the
skin. The fees average 7s. 6d. for each face
treatment, or 30s. for a course of six. One
treatment would do much to initiate the home
masse'oso into the mysteries of massage, making
an excellent foundation for the home treatment
which is to follow. The skin foods and other
complexion specialities of this firm may be
had from the principal chemists throughout the
country.
OTHER TREATMENT
The Steam Face-Bath. - For some skins, more
especially those with coarse open pores, it will
be found beneficial to give the face a steam bath
about once a week. To do this, fill a basin with
very hot water, to which the juice of half a lemon
has been added. Cover the head with a large
towel, bend over the basin, lotting the towel
completely screen the face, and remain in this
position until the face has become thoroughly
steamed. Then wash in soap and water and
rinse it well.
The pores will now be cleansed. As they will
have been thoroughly opened by this treatment,
to contract them once more fill another basin
with warm water to which about twelve drops of
tincture of benzoin should be added, and bathe
the face again for a few minutes. Then splash
it all over with cold water, and dry with a soft
towel. A little good face cream gently rubbed
into the pores with the finger-tips will complete
the treatment.
Electrolysis is the best-known method of re-
movang disfiguring superfluous hair. It should
always be applied by an expert. Most of the
skin and complexion speciahsts have expert
operators in electrolysis for the purpose of re-
moving superfluous hair.
CLOTHING
The proper choice of suitable clothing for
varying seasons forms an important factor in
regard to our health.
In winter the clothing should be Ught and
warm - never heavy ; in the summer it should
be light and cool. All clothes should fit suffi-
ciently loosely to give the limbs and respiratory
organs their full freedom. In so far as protec-
tion against cold is concerned, woollen fabrics
are superior to all other materials. Light
woollen combinations or vests should be worn
next to the skin in winter, and even in the
summer when athletics, outdoor games, or any
kind of violent exercise is indulged in, it is as
well to wear a light woollen undervest, for wool
is the only fabric which can be depended upon
to absorb perspiration ; and there is less risk
of catching cold than when wearing hnen or
cotton next to the skin, as those fabrics become
extremely damp after exercise, and very often a
severe chill is the result.
The Jaeger underwear possesses both the
quaUties of warmth and Ughtness of texture in
addition to that of durabihty ; and so from a
hygienic point of view is excellent. There are
agents for Jaeger clothing in almost every towni
in the United Kingdom, so that it is easily ob-
tainable.
Colour should also play an important part in
the selection of our clothing for the different
seasons. For summer white is the ideal colour,
as it is the one that absorbs the least heat.
This is the reason why in tropical climates white
is as much worn by men as by women. On the
other hand, black or dark -coloured garments
attract the sun and absorb the greater amount of
heat. These dark colours are ideal for winter
wear, but they should not be much worn in
summer.
The Corset. - Tighi-lacing. - Few women realise
how very injurious to their health tliis practice
is. Tight -lacing has the effect of compressing
the body to the point of deformity, and severe
injury to the internal organs is often the result.
452
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Happily the " wasp " waist is no longer the
fasliion of the moment, but there is a tendency
to unduly compress the hips and lower portion
of the body, which may often have most injurious
results. Great care should be taken in the
selection of corsets. It is wrong to economise
in tliis direction. A httle more money spent
on the corset and a little less on dress and finery
would ha%-e the effect of resulting in a much
cleaner bill of healtli for many a woman who is
accustomed to stint herself in this direction.
Clieap corsets should never be worn ; they are
usually stiff, hard, and unyielding, not giving
freedom to the movements of the body. The
best corset -makers are now, however, building
their corsets with more regard to the hygienic
laws than was manifested years ago. Good
corsets now are fairly elastic and pliable. They
are well planned and built, and are stocked in
almost every size. It is always as well, if possible,
to have the corset fitted, as this will ensure
perfect ease in wear. Various makes are speci-
ally adapted for very full and very thin figures,
and it is as well to bear this in mind when
making a selection. Wliere the corset is fitted,
the corsetiere will, of course, adapt it to the
special requirements of her customer.
It is as well to avoid the varying extremes
of fashion in this direction. Though at one
moment the " wasp " waist may be the decree,
at another •' no hips," and slenderness almost
to emaciation will be de rigueur, no woman who
respects her health will become fashion's slave.
By doing so she will often only succeed in
making herself grotesque.
The sensible woman always knows how to
strike the happy " medium " whatever the
fasliion may be ; there is no more pleasing sight
than a good, well-proportioned figure well and
sensibly corseted with due regard to the natural
laws.
Boots and Shoes. - Suitable footgear is a most
important consideration. The question of fit
is paramount. The boot must be made to fit
the foot, and not th'^ foot distorted out of all
shape to fit the boot. Ill-fitting boots serve
to deform the feet if their wear is persisted in,
causing corns, bunions, enlarged joints, and
ingrowing toe-nails and often other ills (see
p. 464).
Tight boots also impede the proper circulation
of the blood, and chilblains in this way are often
caused. The practice of wearing very high heels
is particularly r prehensible. A woman wearing
boots or shoes of this description cannot possibly
want in a natural fasliion; the weight of the
body is thrown forward upon the toes, being
robbed of the support which the heels would
have given it in the more natural circumstances ;
the heel of the shoe is placed in the middle of
the foot under the arch of the instep- the result
is to spoil and weaken the arch of the foot, and
rob it of its natural spring : the gait becomes
awkward, jerky, and ungainly in the extreme,
and that freedom and swing of movement
typical of a healthy and graceful carriage is
conspicuous by its absence.
Well-cut boots and shoes with medium-sized
heels and round toes are the ideal footwear.
Very pointed toes are responsible for a great
many of the toe deformities. It is not at all
necessary that the footwear should be clumsy
in order to be hygienic. Boots and shoes can
bo made just as neatly and as daintily with
moderately sized heels as with high ones. They
should have good strong soles, and not the thin
brown -paper mixture which is so often charac-
teristic of the cheap boot. It is a bad plan to
economise in shoe leather - many a fatal chill
has been traced to wet feet as a result of wearing
poor shoes in inclement weather. In all cases
where the soles of the boots or shoes are not
waterproof, goloshes should be worn. Mothers
should make their young daughters realise the
importance of keeping their feet well protected
from damp. Girls are apt to be very neglect-
ful in this direction, and much ill health and
even chronic invaHdism in after life is very
often the result. (For Waterproofs, Kaincoats,
see p. 306.)
FOOD AND DIET
The question of food and diet is an all-im-
portant one, but it is a question in which wo must
be guided to some extent by common-sense.
Constitutions vary, and one woman's meat is
only too apt to prove another woman's poison.
In these days of dietarian extremists, of which
the vegetarians form a typical faction, it proves
sometimes very hard to strike an even balance
for oneself in regard to the food question. It
may be at once said that extremes in diet as in
all other things are harmful, and should be
avoided. For most people an all meat diet
would be as injurious as a strictly voget'^rian
one. Special diets are of course prescribed in
special circumstances, but apart from these
exceptions, as a general rule a mixed meat
and vegetable diet is the most suitable in a
temperate climate like ours. One important
maxim to bear in mind is " Avoid everything
that disagrees with you, no matter how pleasing
it may be to the palate." Various forms of
diet must of coiu-so he adopted to suit individuals
in special cases. For instance, the woman who
is inclined to (besity should avoid sugar and
all starchy foods, confectionery and pastries ;
whilst, on the other hand, the ultra-thin woman's
diet should consist to a larg'o extent of the very
foods that the stout woman should avoid.
The normally healthy woman, so long as she
is guided by the maxim never to take anything
that disagrees with her, need not be hampered
by any of these restrictions, but, and this
is all -important, her meals should be taken
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
453
at regular intervals and she should never eat
between meals. It is the average woman's
tendency to err particularly in regard to the
quantity of food she takes. She either eats too
much and too often, or else she eats too little.
Nowadays people are more incUned to err in
the former respect than in the latter. Three
good meals a day are ample for the sustenance
of health and strength, and the harmful practice
of eating between meals should be abandoned.
Dainties and sweets of various kinds should not
be partaken of indiscriminately at any hour to
the prejudice of the appetite at meal-time.
Eating between meals more often than not is
the basis of loss of appetite, indigestion, and
other similar troubles. A great many people
err in this respect, more especially in regard to
our five o'clock tea. There is no harm in
indulging in " the cup that cheers," with perhaps
a thin slice of bread and butter or a biscuit,
but there is a growing tendency to make quite
a full meal at this time-honoured afternoon
function, and where dinner or even supper
follows at a two or a three hours' interval at
most, the practice is one calculated to do harm
to the strongest digestion.
It may be said at once that tea and sometimes
coffee are taken to excess in the average middle -
class home. They are both prolific causes of
indigestion, and many a faulty digestion can
be traced to excessive indulgence in either.
Girl and women workers are the most incHned
to indulge in the tea habit to excess. Tlie evil
in their case is increased inasmuch as our
women workers ab a rule are those who err
not only in taking insufficient food at meal-
time, but also in not selecting it with due regard
to its nutritive properties. Hundreds of girl
clerks may be seen in our great cities at
the luncheon hour taking a meal of buns or
pastries, supplemented with a liberal allowance
of tea.
Economy practised in regard to food is false
economy, and it is doubtful whether, even from a
monetary point of view, it proves economy in
the long run. A few years ago, perhaps, it was
difSenlt to get a good meal for an expenditure
well within the limits of the city worker's purse,
but to-day things have undergone a remark-
able change in this direction. At most of our
light refreshment shops, for instance, a well-
cooked chop or a steak may be obtained for the
sum of sixpence. Taking into consideration
the fact that the average price of tea is two-
pence a cup at least, and that pastries are as a
rule twopence each, the fallacy of the tea and
cake diet from the point of view of saving is
obvious. It is a bad principle in any case to
attempt saving on our meals. There are many
other Uttle details in whicli economy may be
practist'd, but economj' practised in regard to
the food qi:ostion is apt to cost very dear in
the end. There is no need to partake of a heavy
meal at luncheon time. Where the work is
of a sedentary nature heavy eating in the middle
of the day is injudicious. The diet might con-
sist of eggs one day, meat and vegetables on
another day, and fish the next, and so on ; but
let the cup of tea be absent from the mid-day
meal.
We should always regulate the quantities of
our meat and vegetable foods in accordance with
the varying seasons. Thus in summer time
fresh green vegetables, fruit, new-laid eggs
should play an important part in our diet, and
meat should not be taken in such large quantities
as in the winter.
Too much stress cannot be laid upon the
inaportance of good cooking. Bad cooking robs
food of many of its most nutritive properties,
whilst good cooking appeals to the palate,
giving a healthy tone to the appetite, and in
this way stimulates the digestive forces. Over-
indulgence in sweets or pastries is ruinous to a
good complexion, and all highly seasoned dishes
and pickles, chutney, and other similar condi-
ments should be avoided. On the other hand,
fruit and green vegetables may be indulged in
to the heart's content with the most beneficial
results. Oranges especially are notable as com-
plexion beautifiers. The woman who takes
four or five oranges a day will find them most
useful as digestive stimulants. Apples too are
invaluable aids to a good digestion. Needless
to say, the fruit should be in perfect condition.
Both unripe and over-ripe fruit should be
rigidly avoided.
SLEEP
Sleep is one of the essentials of life, for
neither health nor strength can be maintained
without it. Wlien for some reason or other
sleep cannot be obtained, the nervous and
muscular system very rapidly become exhausted,
for neither the brain nor the body can procure
the needful rest from the wear and toil they are
subject to during the day. During sleep the
phj'sique is not only resting but building up a
fresh reserve of strength - it is, as it were,
undergoing repair ; for the mxiscular system
as well as the brain recuperates itself under the
infliience of absolute rest, storing up nutriment
brought to it by the blood in preparation for
the next day's toil and activity.
Periods of Sleep. - Infants, cliildren, and old
people require longer periods of sleep than
others. From fifteen to twenty-eight years of
age nine hours' sleep should be taken. After
twenty-eight until old age, eight hours will be
sufficient.
Tlie bedroom should be quiet, dai-k, cool, and
well ventilated, and the window sliould be kept
open at the top, summer and winter, to let the
fresh air in. If you feel cold, put extra covers
on the bed and a wai'mer dressing-gown wliilst
451
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
doing yoiir hair, but never seek added warmth
at the expense of ventilation.
Time lor Sleep. - Tliero is much truth in the
old adage -
" Early to bed, and early to rise
Makes a man healthy, wealthy and wise."
The truth of it is borne out again in the fact
that the sleep obtained before midnight is often
designated as " Beauty Sleep." Regularity in
the bed-time hoiu" is not possible to all, but
where it is possible its results are most beneficial.
We have all experienced that jaded feeling which
is the result of keeping late hours for some nights
running, and even though we try to make up
for it by sleeping several hoiu" later in the day
we never feel quite the same as if we had had
our rest at the normal hour.
There are a number of people, such as journa-
lists and those of the theatrical profession, who,
from the nature of their calling, are bound to
reverse the natural order of things, turning day
into night and night into day. These should be
careful always to make up their full eight hours
of sleep. Care should be taken that when they
have to rest far into the day-time, their bed-
rooms are well darkened, and that they are not
disturbed bj' any sounds of the riash and bustle
of the daily household work. (For Insomnia,
its Causes and Cure, see Home Nursing.)
EXERCISE
Regular and systematic exercise is absolutely
necessary for the maintaining of good health.
Exercise taken in the open air is the most bene-
ficial, the healthiest women being those who en-
gage in outdoor sports such as golf, tennis, hockey,
&c., for these not only keep the miiscles of the
body in good condition, but they entail a certain
amount of time spent in the open air, and the
more fresh air a woman is able to breathe the
better it will be for her health, and incidentally
for her complexion and her good looks in general.
Walking exorcise is especially good ; it has been
said that every woman and girl should walk at
least five miles daily, but very few attain that
standard. Nowadays when buses, trams, &c.,
are to be found at every turn, and transit of
every kind is so accessiVjlo and so easy, a woman
is inclined to walk as little as possible, to the
general detriment of her health and good looks.
Many women workers are compelled to lead
sedentary lives. If those women would only
make up their minds to walk to and fro from
their offices and places of business instead of
taking tram or bus, they would find their health
materially improved. Even if doing so entailed
their getting up half-an-hour earlier ( very morn-
ing, the little self-denial practised in this way
would be amply repaid by the abundant benefits
to be derived.
For the woman in easy circumstances walking
is equally necessary, however much she may be
tempted to take her outings in carriage or motor.
The aimless, shambling walk without sot purpose
will not do her any good. In walking one
should always have an object in view, the stride
should be fiirm and light, the carriage erect.
Needless to ay, liigh-heeled shoes should be
altogether tabooed, as they tlirow the whole
weight of the body upon the toes, instead of
the pressure being first upon the heel and
the ball of the foot, and last upon the toes,
as is necessary for the natural movement in
walking. Wallcing up and down a room for
about ten minutes daily with a book well
balanced upon the head will do a great deal
towards improving the carriage of the head and
shoulders. Some good physical exercises morn-
ing and evening will be found most beneficial ;
in fact, where the life is a sedentary one, it
may be said that they £ire necessary for the main-
tenance of health (see below).
BREATHING
Few women have reaUsed the value of deep
breathing as an incentive to vitaUty and health ;
fewer still know how to breathe correctly. In
breathing the lips should be kept closed and
the breath inhaled and exhaled through the
nostrils. Six to ten deep breaths taken regu-
larly every morning upon rising will act as a
wonderful tonic to the system. Standing erect
with the hands upon the liips, inhale a deep
full breath whilst slowly rising upon the tips
of the toes - then slowly exhale wlulst bringing
the heels to the ground again. This breathing
exercise should be repeated at least six times
every morning or evening, and the number of
breaths could be gradually increased to ten or
twelve with the utmost benefit. Through the
day-time, when working, walking, or indulging
in any kind of exercise, a woman should practise
the art of breathing correctly, inhaling and ex-
haling the breath through her nostrils an'', not
through her mouth, as is the habit with many.
SOME SIMPLE PHYSICAL EXERCISES
Tlie following simple physical exercises may
bo practised at home with much benefit. Any
particular exercise or exercises may bo selected
and practised by a woman in accordance with
her particular requirements.
First Exercise. - Position. - Stand with head
erect and shoulders well squared, arms hanging
at the sides, the finger-tips touching the thighs,
heels close together and toes turned out (fig. 1).
Bend the forearms upwards, with the palms
turned inwards and the fingers pointing to the
shoulders (fig. 2).
Throw out the arms sideways parallel with
the shoulders, keeping the palms downwards
(fig. 3).
Second Exercise. - Stretch out arms sideways
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
455
PHYSICAL EXERCISES
Fia. 1. Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.
Fig. 5.
Fig. 6.
Fig. 7.
Fig. 8.
Fig. 9.
Fig. 10.
Fig. 11.
I^G. 12.
Fig. 13.
FIG. 11.
456
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
(fig. 3), then bend forearms until the hands are
in front of the shoulders (fig. 4). Then quickly
stretch arms sideways.
Third Exercise. - Bend arms aa in fig. 2, then
stretch arms upwards (fig. 5).
Fourth Exercise. - Bend arms as in fig. 2,
then from this position stretch them forward,
with the palms inward and the fingers well
extended (fig. G).
The above exercises are especially good for
chest development.
Fifth Exercise. - Stretch arms upwards (fig. 5),
then, with the feet firmlj- on tho floor and without
bending tho knees, bend the body slowly back-
wards (fig. 7). This exorcise has most bene-
ficial effects in strengthening the back. Tlio
beginner should take up her position at first
near a wall against which she can support herself
by her hands £is she bends.
Sixth Exercise. - Stretch tho arms upwards
(fig. 5), then, without bending the knees, bend
forwards until the tips of the fingers touch
tho floor in front (fig. 8). The knees must
not be bent under any consideration. If you
cannot touch the floor at fii'st, bend as far as
5'ou can without bending the knees ; the rest
will come with practice. This exercise is of
enormous value in giving suppleness to the
figure, reducing obesity and strengthening the
abdomen. It should be performed regularly by
those who are incUned to stoutness. After
practising Exercise V. and Exercise VI. separ-
ately, practise both movements one after the
other, bending backwards and forwards in turn
several times.
Seventh Exercise. - ^Trunk -twisting movement.
Place the hands behind the neck, the finger-tips
just meeting (fig. 9), twist tho body slowly to
the right (fig. 10). Tlion after turning slowly
to the front again, twist the body to the left
in the same manner. This exercise gives supple-
ness to the figure and has a most beneficial
effect upon the internal organs.
Eighth Exercise. - Lie down on floor with arms
extended behind tho head and the feet well to-
gether. Gently raise the left leg as high as it
will go (fig. 11), then slowly lower it to the
floor again. Raise and lower the right leg in
the same manner. Repeat several times, then
raise and lower both logs together (fig. 12).
This is also an effective exorcise for reducing
superfluous flesh and curing constipation and
digestive troubles.
Ninth Exercise. - Bend tho knees as in fig. 13,
plaf'ing both hands on the ground in front of
you. Then, without bonding the arms, throw
out the logs to the rear (fig. 14). Bond tho
arms until tho chest nearly touches tho floor
(fig. 15). Then straighten the arms until the
position is again the same as fig. 14. Return
to position shown in fig. 13.
Tlus exercise is also very good for digestive
troubles.
The Value of Housework. - Housework is a
source of exercise wliich has a decidedly health-
giving value. Turning mattresses and making
beds are very ordinary and seemingly unin-
teresting houseliold duties, but from the point
of view of health thoy are good ; tho more
energy and interest a woman displays in
following the ordinary routine of her domestic
duties, the less danger does she run of
becoming a victim to nerves and other kindred
feminine complaints. Slie must not overdo
things, however, as it is as harmful to work too
hard as to work too little, but if she goes through
with her light household duties cheerfully and
^nllingly, taking pleasure in her work, they
cannot but be productive of physical benefit
to her. It is not every one who can indulge
in tennis, golf, and other similar outdoor and
health-giving exercises, but there are very few
women who have an excuse for not availing
themselves of the exercise to be had in the daily
routine of household work. Let them therefore,
if they value their health, make the most of
their opportunities in this direction.
CARE OF THE HAIR
No woman who values her appearance can
afford to neglect her hair, for a fine, well-kept
head of hair forms indeed a " woman's crowning
glory," whereas dull-looking, ill-kept tresses tend
to show more than anything else that she lacIvS
that dainty and scrupulous care of her person
which should prove one of the chief charac-
teristics of her sex.
Brushing the Hair. - Tlio hair should be
thoroughly brushed for at least from five to eight
minutes each morning and evening, and even
longer if it is particularly thick and luxuriant.
Care should be taken in tlie selection of the
brushes. These should bo of medium hardness
- extremely hard brushes do more liarm than
good. A moderately stiff brush might be used
for the hair, and a softer one for the scalp.
Part the hair in two divisions from the centre
of the forehead to tho nape of the nock, then
brush it at each side with firm, even, and rapid
but not unduly heavy strokes. Few women
understand the knack of hair -brushing, and
more harm than good is done by an unduly
harsh treatment with tho brush. The brushing
should be sufficiently brisk and vigorous to set
the oil glands of tho scalp in action. A healthy
glow is felt over tho head and scalp when tho
brushing is properly dono.
Combing the Hair. - It is as well to take out
tho tangles with the comb before brushing,
taking caro not to brealc tho hair by pulling it
too hard. The teeth of the comb should not
be too sharp ; they should be firm and strong,
however, and not easily breakable. Tortoise-
shell combs are the best, but these are not
within the reach of every purse. Very good
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
457
combs can be obtained for the expenditiire of
from Is. 6d. to 2s. ; but great care should be
taken in their selection. The scalp should never
be scraped with the comb, as this induces irri-
tation and dandruff ; neither should " back-
combing," which is the name given to the pro-
cess of fluffing out the hair by combing it back
from the ends to the roots, in order to give it
the appearance of an added thickness, be much
practised.
After thoroughly brushing and combing the
hair at night it is best to do it up in one or two
very loose plaits, in order to give it a much-
needed rest from the strain to which it has been
subjected bj' the exigencies of the coiffure during
the day-time. When the hair is tightly braided
it cannot enjoy the benefit of this rest.
Scalp Massage. - Much benefit can be derived
from gently massaging the scalp with the tips
of the fingf^rs, using a quick, circular movement.
Part the hair in the middle, massage gently
from and round the parting, then separate the
hair in strands, and massage the scalp from and
round the smaller partings thus made. The
friction so caused stimulates the oil glands, and
does much to promote their healthy action.
Tliis massage may take place night or morning,
but preferably in the morning, when the scalp
is not tired. For very dry hair a little cocoa -
butter might be applied with the tips of the
fingers during the massaging process ; it should
be rubbed gently into the scalp and not allowed
to go over the hair.
Washing the Hair. - Too frequent washing of
the hair is injurious, as it has the effect of re-
moving the natiiral oil. No hard-and-fast rule
can be laid down as to how often the hair should
be washed ; it is a matter which depends upon
the nature and quantity of the hair and the
condition of the scalp. People with abnormally
greasy hair, for instance, require to wash it once
in a fortnight or tliree weeks to keep it in a good
condition ; whilst dwellers in the to^\Ta are
compelled to wash their hair- more often than
people who live in the country.
On the other hand, people with dry hair
should wasli it as seldom as is compatible with
perfect cleanliness. A good plan for those whose
hair tends to drj'-ness is to rub oil well into the
scalp twenty-four hours before wasliing. This
will obviate any tendency of the hair to become
harsh and brittle after the shampoo. One im-
portant point to remember is that soap should
never be rubbed on to the hair during the wash-
ing process. The best way to wash the hair is to
dissolve a little good soap in hot water (Castile
Soap is very good for the purpose), beat it into a
lather, and then rub it well into the scalp until a
lather is formed all over the head. Continue this
operation in fresh hot water, still rubbing the
lather well in. Tlien thoroughly rinse in hot
water until all the soap is removed. A final
rinsing can be given in cold water if required.
Be careful to thoroughly dry the hair after
washing, as a failure to do this often causes the
dandruff which is so prejudicial to the health of
the hair. Many good shampoo powders are sold
which can also bo used in this way. The yolks of
one or two eggs beaten up to a froth and mixed
with hot water also make a very good shampoo.
If people would onlj' realise the cleansing
properties of thorough brusliing they would not
need to wash their hair so often. It is most
important, however, that the brushes should be
kept scrupulously clean. Attention to these
details go a long way towards keeping the hair
and scalp in a healthy condition.
Where the hair is inclined to be unduly dry
and brittle, a little Rowland's Macassar Oil or
cocoa-butter should be well rubbed into the scalp
twice a week. The former preparation should
be used sparingly, two or three drops being
sufficient to impart a delightful gloss. For un-
duly greasy hair a little bay rum i-ubbed into
the roots twice a week will be found to have
beneficial results in most cases.
Soda should never be used in washing the
hair, for although it gives it a pretty, fluffy
appearance, and tends to make fair hair look
fairer, yet it is very injurious, having a most
drying and irritating effect upon the scalp,
causing the hair to split and break, and after
a time to fall, if constantly used. Occasional
tipping (i.e. cutting the ends of the hair) and
singeing is beneficial when the hair is broken
and the ends uneven, but the old idea that
constant tipping and singeing was absolutely
necessary to keep the hair in good condition is
now altogether exjiloded.
Toilet Brushes. - It is very important to keep
hair brushes verj' clean. Tlaey should always
be kept under cover and not allowed to lie about
exposed to the dust. Then wash them once a
week or as often as occasion requires. Put
sufficient hot water into a bowl or basin to cover
the bristles of the brush and add a good tea-
spoonful of borax, a lump of soda, or enough
ammonia to make the water smell rather
strongly. Allow this to become luke-warm.
Remove all hairs from the brush and dab it up
and down in the water until it looks quite clean.
The water must not be allowed to come over
the back of the brush, or it is liable to loosen it
and destroy the polish on the wood. Rinse
thorouglily in cold water, wliich will prevent
the bristles from becoming soft. Shake out the
water, wipe the back of the brush with a towel,
and dry as quickly as possible in the open air
or in a warm atmosphere.
Soda should not be used for fine and expensive
brushes as it might spoil the appeai-ance of the
backs ; borax or ammonia are safer materials.
Polished wood or ebony backs can bo rubbed
up with a little furniture polish when the brushes
are dry ; tortoise-shell or ivory backs with a
little sweet oil.
458
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
To Wash Combs. - Make a lather of soap and
wator. Take a small nail brush with crisp but
not unduly hard bristles, and apply the soap-
suds to the comb, biiishing from the back of
the comb to the edges of the teeth (left to
right) with a brisk even movement. This
brings out the dirt more effectively than by
brusliing the comb lengthways. Rinse well
in cold water. Xever lot the comb lie in hot
water - doing this is apt to bend it and make
it brittle.
Falling Hair. - Falling hair may as a rule be
regarded as a sign of ill health, hence it is
necessary that any bodily condition which may
be discovered as tending to produce the affliction
in question should be duly corrected. Among
lotions which may be used for strengthening
the growth of the hair and preventing its falling
out is that used by the late Sir Erasmus Wilson.
It consists of : -
Strong liquor of ammonia . . . J an ounce.
Chloroform J an ounce.
Oil of sesame } an ounce.
Oil of lemon } an ounce.
Spirits of rosemary being added up to 4 ounces.
A little of tliis . should be rubbed into the
scalp with a small sponge every other day.
The hair should bo parted from the nape of the
neck to the forehead, and the tonic well rubbed
into the parting thus made. Then the hair at
the sides should be separated into strands, and
the tonic applied to the scalp at the smaller
partings. This tonic is especially good for dry
hair.
For greasy hair the following preparation
should be used : -
Cantharides 2 drachms.
Oil of lemon J an ounce.
Bed lavender 2 druchms.
Spirits of Rosemary up to 4 ounces.
A little paraffin well rubbed into the scalp
at night-time with the tips of the fingers in
some cases swjta as a very efficient tonic.
One important point to remember is that the
hair and scalp should be well shampooed before
first beginning to use a hair tonic if the utmost
benefit is to bo derived from its use.
Grey Hairs. - As a rule fair-haired women do
not become grey with advancing years as soon
as their dark-haired sisters, and the woman with
dark hair is also the one most liable to be afflicted
with premature grej'ness.
Premature greyness can in many cases be
arrested, whilst the greyness that comes of
advancing years must neces-sarily take its course.
The woman whose locks show a tendency to
become grey before she has attained the ago of
thirty should at once consult a good hair
specialist, and so try to nip the mischief in the
bud.
Grey hairs, like wrinkles, are often caused
by constant worry or disorder of the nervous
system, and the general health requires atten-
tion if the progress of the wintry locks is to
be arrested. It h£is been said that constantly
washing the hair with soda is very conducive
to premature greyness. An excessively dry con-
dition of the scalp should be avoided, and some
good nourishing hair tonic regularly applied.
Dyeing the Hair. - The woman who wishes to
dye her hair to hide the grey of advancing years
would do well to think before she takes this
step. Locks that are dyed serve in some in-
explicable manner to emphasise the lines on the
face, and thus, if she manages to conceal age by
art in one direction, she only succeeds in em-
phasising it in the other. The young woman,
however, whose locks present early the pepper
and salt appearance which is often a prelude to
complete greyness, cannot be so much blamed
if she attempts to conceal by art what natural
means have failed to cure. One word of warn-
ing, however, in this direction - never attempt
the dyeing process yourself ; go to a good and
experienced hairdresser who knows from ex-
perience of the safest preparations, and who is
an expert in applying them in the proper
manner.
The amateur hair dyer has often awakened in
the morning to find her locks turned green or
some other weird colour. All her efforts to
alter their appearance has been unavailing, and
she has been compelled to go to a hair specialist
in the long riui. Needless to say, all her trouble
and anxiety would have been saved if she had
followed this course in the beginning.
False Hair. - False hair enters so largely into
the scheme of fashionable hair-dressing that a
few words on tho subject will not be amiss.
False curls, plaits, twists of all kinds are re-
quisitioned in the present-day coiffures, even
by those whose locks are natiirally abundant.
The wearing of masses of false curls over tho
natural hair cannot but bo harmful to th^ scalp,
which becomes unduly heated as the fresh air,
so essential to the health of the hair, is ex-
cluded. The weight of a light, false plait or
twist wound round tho head is almost imper-
ceptible, and so additions of this kind to tho
natural locks cannot do much harm, but it is
hoa\'y masses of curls and coils which should bo
avoided. If some addition is required to the
tresses, the best way is to save up one's hair
combings until there are sufficient for a plait,
a switch or coil, and send them to a good hair-
dresser to be made up. The combings must bo
kept in a well-closed box, and they should not
bo kept too long before being made up, or they
will become dull and lose their colour.
The Coiffure. - Whatever care may be given
to other details of the toilette will be nullified
to a certain extent by an ill-dressed head of
hair. The clever woman realises that her looks
depend a great deal upon the suitable arrange-
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
459
ment of her tresses, and she takes pains to dress
her hair to suit her face. When she possesses a
pretty forehead and well-arched eyebrows she
dresses her hair well away from the brows,
knowing that it is the style which will suit
her best.
If her face is unduly long, with prominent
features, she shuns the middle parting, which
could only add to its length. If, on the other
hand, it inclines to undue squareness or plump-
ness, she avoids the pompadour, which would
only tend to accentuate these defects.
There is nothing more unsightly than Ul-
kempt, straggly tresses, unless it is the hair
brushed up so stiffly and strained so tightly as
to give an appearance of being pulled out by
the roots.
Tliose who are wise realise that the hair is a
frame, as it were, to the face, which can be
made to beautify the picture it surrounds, or
else to detract very materially from its beauty.
Tlie best coiffures invariably convey an idea
of natui-alness of arrangement, although artificial
waving and other expedients may have been
resorted to in order to bring about the desired
results.
Waving and Curling the Hair. - It is not given
to us all to have natm-ally wavy or curly hair.
For those who are so fortunate as to possess it,
the difficulties of hair-dressing are materially
lessened, for wavy hair has a way of arranging
itself naturally and becomingly with very httle
care. It has the advantage also of never look-
ing really untidy, although " artistic untidiness "
is generally the effect of curly tresses, for the
little curls rebel at being unduly restricted by
hairpins and ribbons, and have a knack of
breaking away from the restraint of these
accessories of the coiffure upon the least pro-
vocation, but with the happiest results.
Where the hair is inclined to be fluff j' much
may be done to simulate the natural wave.
Of all forms of artificial waving that of doing up
the hair in good waving pins is perhaps the
most satisfactory for the woman who dresses
her own hair.
Nowadays, it is true, very excellent waving
and curling tongs and irons are sold, but to
use them satisfactorily requires the knack of a
trained coiffeur. The home use of curling and
waving irons of all kinds should be discouraged,
for the hair is often invariably impoverished by
constant burning with hot tongs. It requires
an expert to use them properly. If you
must use them, take a course of lessons in
waving from a good hairdresser, or, bettor still,
go to the hairdresser once a week or once a
fortnight to have the hair waved. What is
called the " Marcelle " wave will last a week or
even a fortnight with fluffy hair, and tho
hairdresser's charge as a rule does not come to
more than Is. M..
The Use of Waving and Curling Pins.- Of
curling and waving pins those sold by Messrs.
Hinde are perhaps amongst the best. Tliey
can be obtained from almost any hairdresser or
draper in the United Iviiigdom, and are very
easy to use. Upon getting up in the morning
separate the part of the hair which is to be
waved into strands, and twist each strand
round a waver. By the time the toilet is com-
plete and it is time to begin the coiffure, upon
taking out the pins it will be found that the hair
is well and naturally waved. If the hair is
inclined to be abnormally greasy, it will not
wave quite so quickly, then it will be neces-
sary sometimes to leave the pins in over -night.
This should not be done often, however, as the
hair needs rest during the night-time, and
should not be subjected to any unnecessary
strain if this can be avoided. A little rum or
spirit of any kind rubbed on to the hair before
waving will very often act as a most effective
curling fluid ; often also by slightly warming
the pins in the flame of a candle or a gas jet
before using, the hair will be found to wave much
more quickly. Fringes are very little worn at
the present day ; a few stray curls here and
there on the forehead are the utmost concession
made by fashion to those who find a fringe of
some kind necessary. One of Hinde's curlers
will be all that is necessary for the curling of
the present-day fringe. \Vhere the hair is
unusually dank and greasy two might be used,
but care must be taken to avoid the very
stiffly curled fringe which is now so terribly
deniode.
Dressing the Hair. - In almost every successful
coiffure the front and back portions of the hair
are dressed separately. After having waved the
hair, part it first of all from ear to ear. This
will separate the front and back portions.
Comb up the back portion towards the centre
of the back of the head, and if the hair is long
tie it in the required position, or fasten it with
a hair-binder. It is better not to tie short hair,
as more can be made of it if left loose. Then
take the front portion, shaking it down over
the face, and comb it well. If the pompadoiu*
effect is required, separate the hair into three
divisions, gently fluff the centre part of the
division with the comb, turn it up and fasten
into position with an ornamental comb. Do
the same with each of the side pieces, taking
care not to leave a parting on either side. With
fluffy hair the pompadour effect can be achieved
without the aid of a pad ; with very straight
hair a light pad is necessary - it must be a verj'
light one and the hair must not be strained too
tightly over it.
If a parting is required, part in two in tho
middle, take up each side separately, gently
push the hair forward, and keep it in place
with side -combs. Tlio harsh, even parting is a
thing of the past nowadays ; the hair is always
parted loosely, and a little wave made to fall
460
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
over tlie forehead on each side. If preferred
the parting can be made to come to one
side.
These preliminary steps carefully attended
to, the foundation of a good coiffiu-e is made ;
the hair can now be done in the style pre-
ferred.
Fashionable Coiffures. - In the winter season
190&-10, a stylo of hairdi-cssing known as the
" Turban Coiffiiro " was introduced into England
fiom Paris, and became pretty generally adopted
by all those who wished to bo " in the fashion."
A typical English Coiffure.
This style of head-dress, however, though
admirably suited to our fair neighbours across
the Channel, was by no means universally
becoming to English faces. The foundation of
the coiffure was a large turban frame which
fitted the head like a cap ; the hair was drawn
through a hole at the base of the frame and
arranged over it in a flat chignon or turban,
whilst a straight band of hair drawn round the
chignon so formed completed the coiffure. By
reason of its general unbecomingness to English
faces the reign of the " Turban " was short-
hved. English hairdressers met together in
conference to deliberate whether it was not
possible to design coiffures in England instead
of adopting the Paris stylos. As a result of
their deliberations, a typical English coiffure
has been introduced which bids fair to lead
the fashion for some time to come.
The curls which were so great a feature of
the fashion in coiffures during the early part
of 1909 have boon revived, only with a differ-
ence. Tlioy are much larger, and are generally
built on frames still retaining something of the
tiirban shape. Those are encircled by a coil
of hair drawn in many cases through tortoise-
shell rings, which form part of the ba"k-comb.
As an alternative a straiglit flat slide is worn
at the base of the hair. For evening dross throe
short ringlets are allowed to fall over the nape
of the neck at the back. Tlifse ringlets are as
a riile absent from the coiffure in the day-
time, although for very dressy occasions they
may sometimes be worn ; on these occasions.
however, the dress collar would have to
bo low.
The arrangement of the very dressy form of
the now coiffure can seldom bo effected by a
woman herself without tho help of a lady's-
maid, and some extraneous aid to her own locks
in tho form of curls, switches, &c. The simpler
forms, however, do not require so much elabora-
tion, although the same idea is maintained, and
a woman can effect tho fashionable arrangement
of her tresses without oven the aid of a hair-
frame in the following way.
If tho hair is long and plentiful, after arranging
and waving the front portion, take up all the
hair at the centre of the head at tho back and
tie it or fasten it with one of Hinde's hair-
binders in the centre of the head, leaving the
under portion of the hair hanging loose over
the shoulders. Then separate the bound por-
tion into strands, making several large curls,
take up the under portion and coil it loosely
round the curls, fix one of tho fasliionable hair-
slides in the hair just above the nape of the
neck, and the coiffure is complete.
With short hair, the hair should not be bound.
It should be separated into two portions in the
way already described ; the under portion should
be well pinned back while the upper portion is
being curled, then it should be divided into
two strands, whicli should be made to cross one
over the other at the back and twisted round on
either side of the head to give the appearance
of one complete strand.
A woman sometimes finds it very difficult to
make the fashionable cvu-ls by twisting strands
of hair over her fingers ; the curls are apt to
break and become loose when made in this
manner. Messrs. Burnet & Temple, Ltd., of
3 and 4 Fitchetts Court, London, E.C., have
brought out a very simple and ingenious device
by which curls and puffs can be made with the
least amount of troviblo. This consists of a
small wooden stick round which the hair is
rolled ; the stick is fittud with gi-ooves through
which a safety hairpin is inserted, fastening the
curl in place when the stick is removed.
It must be remembered that fashions in
millinery have a most decided influence upon
fashions in hairdressing ; a woman must
nowadays dress her hair to suit her hat, and
the latest evolution of the coiffure may bo
ascribed to the vogue for very large and
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
461
picturesque head-gear which has prevailed for
so long. As a relief from large hats, the turban
toques are equally fasliionable, and the simpler
form of hairdressing described is suitable for
either the one form of millinery or the other,
the only difference being that the bouffant
and vraved effects at the sides should be more
elaborate when wearing a large hat than with
the toque. In this latter case the side dressing
may be comparatively simple.
Combs and Slides. - Ornamental combs and
slides play an important part in the present
styles of hairdressing. The slide is particularly
useful as well as an ornamental accessory.
Placed as it is at the back of the coiffure, it
prevents the hair becoming caught in the hooks
or buttons of a high collar, and helps to keep
the cm-Is trim and tidy. Combs have very
deep, wide borders, which serve to convey
the appeaiunce of hair-slides when placed in
the hair. Very large tortoise-shell hairpins are
also worn ; in fact, it may be said that as waving
and curling is a feature of present-day hair-
dressing, the popularity of combs, fancy pins,
and other similar accessories will largely increase,
as they are most effective in accentuating the
deep waves and curls, and at the same time
serve to keep them in place, imparting a
" finished " appearance to the coiffure.
CARE OF THE HANDS
Many a woman who is on the whole particular
in regard to her general appearance is apt to
neglect the care of hei hands. This is a great
mistake, as ill-kept hands and nails are un-
sightly in the extreme, whilst a well-groomed
hand is not only pleasant to the eye, but is also
one of the best indications of refinement a
woman can possess.
Housework is often made the excuse for lack
of care in this direction. The average woman
is apt to entertain the idea that well-kept hands
are incompatible with the proper fulfilment of
domestic duties. Tliis is quite a fallacy, for
v^dth a little care the busy housewife can keep
her hands in as good condition as the lady of
leisure, who can afford to spend half-an-hour or
an hour at her manicurist whenever she feels
so inclined.
Thin rubber surgeon's gloves should be worn
when doing work which necessitates the hands
being constantly in and out of the water, such
as washing dishes, scrubbing, &c. A pair of
old gloves should always be kept in readiness
" for wear when dusting, sweeping, or performing
other similar duties. They should, if possible,
be a size too large, so as not to restrain the
circulation in any way. Gloves should also be
worn when engaged in gardening and other
out-of-door work.
How to Keep the Hands Clean. - Cleanhness
is, of course, the fii'st essential in this portion
of the toilet. The hands should be well washed
in good soap and warm water softened with a
Uttle borax or some good toilet vinegar night
and morning, and, whenever neceasary, during
the day. A good nail-brush with firm bristles
should be used for scrubbing the nails, and
pumice stone or lemon or both for remoxing
stains from the hands and fingers. When the
hands become soiled and greasy after the per-
formance of household duties, a little cold
cream or white vaseline should be rubbed well
into them before and after washing, in order
to keep the skin smooth and soft. On home
washing days, when there is a great deal of
laundry work to be done, after being immersed
for a long time in the wash-tub the hands are
apt to assume a rather harsh, wrinkled appear-
ance. This can be cured by dipping them into
a Uttle vinegar ; they should then be rubbed
with cold cream, as after the performance of
other household duties.
After washing and drying the hands before
going to bed at night, glycerine and rose-water,
or red lavender, mixed in the proportions of
two parts glycerine to one of red lavender,
should be rubbed into the skin. To do this
thoroughly it is well to rub the mixture well
into the palms and then rub the hands together
as in washing.
When the work of the house has been abnor-
mally heavy, and, in spite of all precautions,
the hands have become a little rough, it is
advisable to wear a pair of large chamois
leather gloves at night, or a pair of old kid
gloves one or two sizes too large. Gloves of
the normal size would not do. They would
only restrict the healthy circulation of the
blood, and red, not white hands would be the
result.
Drying the Hands. - ^The importance of
thoroughly drying the hands after washing
cannot be too highly estimated. A neglect of
this causes the skin to become red and coarsened,
and in winter time chapped hands and often
chilblains are the result. Many a busy house-
wife is content, after hurriedly washing her
hands, to dry them perhaps on a kitchen roller
towel, the latter being most probably wet
already through constant use. Every bit as
much care should be taken in drying the hands
as in washing them. Tliey should be dried first
with an ordinary linen towel, and then well
rubbed with a soft Turkish towel. An added
precaution to take would be to dust tliem over
with fine oatmeal, a Uttle Fuller's earth, or any
good toilet powder.
For the treatment of chilblains, see Homo
Nursing.
Care of the Nails, Manicure. - Every woman
should be able to manicure her hands and nails
for herself. The process is a very simple one
and only requires a Uttle care and the proper
implements.
462
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The following articles are necessary for the
use of the homo manicurist : -
A packet of orange sticks for pushing back the skin.
A small nail file.
A small brush.
A pair of curved nail scissors.
Some good cold cream.
A box of nail powder.
A nail polisher.
Some fine emery or sand-paper.
Cases contmning the orange sticks, nail file and
brush and polisher can be obtained from any
perfumers for the small sum of lO^d. or one
Curved Xail-Scissors.
Nail Polisher.
shilling, wliilst most leather merchants sell
compact little cases containing -the curved
scissors as well for from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. The
manicure powder can be obtained from all
perfumers and chemists in boxes of from six-
pence upwards. It is as well of course to get as
good a set of implements as possible, as a little
additional money spent on the original outlay
will pay in the long run.
To Manicure the Nails. - ^Take some warm
■water and make a good lather of soap-suds.
Add a few drops of Eau de Cologne or toilet
vinegar and the juice of half a lemon. Soak
the fingers for from five to ton minutes in the
soap-suds. This process has the effect of
softening the nails so that they axe ready for
attention. Then after having rubbed a little
cold cream well into the skin round the base of
the nails, press the skin well back with the orange
stick, not only at the base but all round the
nails. By doing this those half-moons which
are so dainty and attractive a feature of well-
kept nails are brought into view. Tlie cuticle
of the nail should never be touched with the
scissors unless it is absolutely necessary to use
them to cut a hang -nail.
The nails should now bo cut round the edges
if necessary, and filed into shape with thf' little
file. The curve of the nail shovild be trimmed
to follow that of tho finger-tips. The ideal nail
is of an oval form, and although we do not all
have the good fortune to possess oval finger-tips,
a little careful manipulation in the trimming of
the nails will do a great deal in giving them an
oval appearance as far as possible. Constant
practice works wonders in the proper manipula-
tion of the nail file.
After the nails have been carefully filed, a
little of the sand-paper should bo used to smooth
away tho rough edges.
Finally the nail powder should be applied
with the bru.sh, and the nails should be gently
polished with the poHshor. The latter consist
of a little instrument somewhat in the shape of
a miniature ii'on with the flat part co^•erod with
chamois leather. If no polisher is available,
it is often sufficient to rub the nails against the
palm of the hand.
After tliis treatment has been gone through,
the nails will assume that pink and polished
appearance which adds so muoh to tht^ir beauty,
and which is quite easily attainable by the
expenditure of a little care.
The manicuring process should be gone
tlirough at least once a week. Every day, how-
ever, the cuticle of the nail should be pushed
back with the orange stick after washing, or
even with the towel. The polisher should then
be used with light rapid friction, and this daily
attention will keep the nails in proper condition.
A very good substitute for ordinary nail-
polishing powder can be obtained from Messrs.
Pritchard & Constance, of 64 Haymarkot,
London. It is sold under the trademark of
" Amami " Polishing Stone, for the moderate
price of sixpence. Amami Nail-PoUshing Stone
is no trouble : merely rub on the moistened palm
of the hand, first the stone, and then the finger
nails ; the thumb nails should be done sepa-
rately. A lasting pearly polish appears at once.
The substance of the stone, in addition to being
quite harmless, tends to preserve in good con-
dition both the nails and the cuticle.
Wbere the nails are unduly dry and brittle,
a little olive oil rubbed into them at night will
do wonders in restoring them to good condition.
CARE OF THE EYES, EYEBROWS,
AND EYELASHES
Not only are the eyes the all-essential organs
of sight, but they have also been described as
the " Jlirror of the Soul." They reflect our
thoughts, our intellect, our emotions, and our
sympathies, giving to the face that spiritualness
which forms its chief beauty. Tliej' ''an be
made indeed the most formidable weapon in
the armoury of woman's charm, and yet they
are the very organs of lier body which she is
the most inclined to abuse and neglect.
The average woman thinks nothing of strain-
ing her eyes over books or needlework in an
indifferent light. It is bad for the eyes even
in a good light to strain them over small print
or minute stitches for hours at a stretch. Tho
eyes require rest as much as the other organs
of the body, and if they are required to do more
than their fair share of work they are bound to
suffer in the long run.
In the evening, when artificial light is required,
bo careful to sit with your back to the light, so
that it is thrown on the pages of the book,
and not straight into the eyeballs. The light
should be shaded. Dark green shades are the
most restful to the sight, and lamps and lights
should be covered with them wherever possible.
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
463
Electric light, which is apt to bo dazzling in its
brilliancy, should always be shaded in green
or some other soft colour.
From the point of view of our personal hygiene
the care of the eyes and eyebrows, eyeUds and
eyelashes, should receive daily consideration.
The eyes are natxirally at their best, of course,
when the health is at its best. Notliing can
impart to the pupils the brilliancy of good
health. Very often drugs such as belladonna
are resorted to to give them the sparkle and
sliine which for some cause they lack. This is
a most injurious practice, and can be productive
of nothing but harm.
Wlien washing in the morning care should
be taken that the secretions which have accumu-
lated in the corner of the eyes during sleep are
removed. These, be it noted, shoxild be washed
out with warm water. It is inad\dsable to rub
into the corner of the eyes with a towel in order
to dislodge the secretions, as inflammation is
very often caused in this way. At night-time
also care should be taken that the eyes are
given their proper share of consideration in the
evening toilet.
Use of the Eye-cup. - When the secretions
which accumulate round the eyes during the
night are found to be so unduly heavy as to bo
difficult to dislodge in the morning, to thoroughly
purify the eye it will be found necessary to use
an eye-cup. Tliis is a little glass cup made in
the shape of the eyeball. It should
be filled with warm water in which
a pinch of boracic powder has been
dissolved. Kold the cup towards the
eye, lower the head slightly to meet
it, and it will be found that the eye-
cup fits round the eye exactly. Tilt
the head backwards and forwards, holding the
cup into position, and open and close the eyelid in
the water until the eye is thoroughly cleansed.
Dab gently with a small piece of soft rag to dry,
and repeat the treatment with the other eye.
The eye-cup can also be used at night to remove
tho dust and dirt which have accumulated
during the day. In all cases where the nature
of the daily occupation forces the eyes to go
through a hea\'y strain, such as literary work,
constant typeing, proof-reading, dressmaking,
&c., the daily use of the eye-cup will prove a
most beneficial tonic.
When the eyes have been so severely strained
that they are red and inflamed round the rims,
and the secretions are so extensive that it is
sometimes difficult to open the lids in the
morning, a lotion should be used after bathing.
This should be prescribed by a good oculist.
In all cases of persistent trouble with the eyes
an oculist should be at once consulted. There
are people who, upon the first signs of eye-strain,
rush to the nearest optician, buy a pair of glasses,
and think that they have done all that is re-
quired. This mode of procedure may answer
Eye-cup.
with luck, but most ofton it results in per-
manent injury to the eyesight. There is
nothing more injurious f(r the eyes than un-
suitable glasses. Glasses should only be made
to the prescription of a good oculist who, after
thorough examination and testing of the patient's
sight, knows exactly what is required. Very
often glasses are not required, and a simple
lotion will sot the trouble right. So those who,
upon the first little trouble with their eyes, are
inclined to at once buy spectacles, should be
wise and find out first if they are really needed
before they ruin their eight for life.
Eyebrows and Eyelashes. - Well-marked eye-
brows and good lashes are invaluable aids to
beauty, and although it is not possible for us
all to attain the Mgh arched brows and long
curling lashes which form the ideal of the artist,
yet with care we can train our brows and lashes
to sometliing very near it.
■Wliere the brows and laishes are thin, vaseline
or cocoa-butter well rubbed into them at night
serve to promote their growth ; but the treat-
ment must be persisted in regularly to pro-
duce results.
When the eyebrows are unduly straight,
by careful manipulation with the fingers when
applying the vaseUne, and pinching the hair
with a semicircular movement upwards, thej'
can be trained into something like the arched
brows we all covet. The vaseline should be
applied to the eyelashes gently and carefullj',
either with the tip of the first finger or the end
of a match covered witli a piece of soft rag.
It should be applied under tho lashes, which
should be gently coaxed outwards and upwards
to induce them to curl at the tips. 'Wlien tlus
has been done, dab the eyelids gently with a
piece of clean soft rag to remove all superfluous
vaseline, which, if allowed to remain, might
cause the lashes to stick together. Under no
consideration attempt to touch the lashes with
the scissors under the impression that by
clipping their growth will be improved.
The hair should never be dressed to fall
very low over the forehead so as to cover the
brows. A coiffure of this kind tends to wear
away the eyebrows and impede their growth.
Brusliing the brows with a small brow -brush
night and morning goes a long way towards
improving their appearance.
There is not much use in ha\-ing pretty brows,
however, if we mar them by continual frowning.
The frowning habit gnoNvs upon one imper-
ceptibly, and it is a habit very hard to correct.
Persistent frowning brings those unsightly little
lines between the brows which does so much to
spoil their beauty. Tliej' can be removed in
time with persistent care and treatment (see
p. 450) ; but a habit once contracted is hard
to get rid of, and no matter liow often the little
lines are effaced, if the frowning habit con-
tinues they will reappear.
464
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
CARE OF THE TEETH
Too much stress jannot bo laid upon the
extreme importance of the proper caxe of tho
teeth. Indigestion and other gastric troubles
are often traced to decayed and defective teeth.
To masticate food properly good teeth are of
paramount importance. To keep the teeth and
mouth clean is one of the surest methods of
keeping them sound. Care should bo taken,
therefore, that all particles of food which collect
between the teeth are dislodged by aid of the
tooth-brush.
The teeth should be brushed at least twice a
day, night and morning, and also after meals
if possible. A good tooth powder should be
used, and tho teeth bruslicd not only across,
but also up and down, the teeth of the upper
jaw being brushed downwards, and those of the
lower jaw beting brushed upwards. Attention
should also be paid to tho gums. They should
be brushed as carefully as the teeth. Tho
mouth might be also rinsed with a good anti-
septic mouth wEish every evening. Calvert's
Carbolic Tooth Powder or precipitated chalk are
very good for cleansing purposes, and used in
conjunction with a mouth wash, in accord-
ance with the directions given, will serve to
keep the mouth and teeth in a clean and whole-
some condition. ^Vhere teurtar accumulates upon
the teeth to any great extent, it should be
scraped off by a dentist. It is superfluous to
add that when tooth decay does make its
appearance tlie dentist should at once be
consulted and the ill thoroughly remedied. It
is not generally kno\vn that a milk diet is very
injurious to the teeth; tho milk, becoming acid
on the gums, destroj'S the enamel. This may be
obviated by using a good pinch of carbonate
of soda in the water with which the teeth are
brushed.
The care of her teeth is apt to be too much
neglected by tho average woman ; and yet it is
quite a simple matter to keep them clean and
healthy, and a little care in this direction brings
its reward an hundred -fold. Leaving all ques-
tions of health apart, haA and badly-kept teeth
spoil the prettiest face, whilst good, well-kept
teeth have often the effect of redeeming a
countenance from actual plainness.
CARE OF THE FEET
Regular care of tho feet is as important as
regular care of the hands.
The toe-nails should bo kept well trimmed,
but they should not be cut too short. Unlike
the finger nails, they should bo cut straight and
not in a curve, as it is injurious to cut too far
down into the side of the toe-nail. Doing this
serves to increase the tendency of the nail to
grow inwards at the comers where such a ten-
dency eidsts. Boots with pointed toes should
never bo worn, as they compress the toos in-
wards in accordance with tho shape of the
boot, in some cases to such an extent that
the great and little toes very nearly meet.
The pointed shoe or boot is the cause of bunion.s,
corns, and nearly every foot deformity. When
corns and bunions make their ai^poaranco they
should be at once treated, as, if neglected, they
not only cause a large amount of pain, but in
some cases actually cripple the sufferer. (For
treatment, see Home Nursing. )
To Cure Ingrowing Toe-Nails. - An ingrowing
toe-nail can very often be cured in its first stages
by the following simple means : - With a sharp
pair of scissors make a V-shaped incision in
the centre of the top of the nail, and insert a
piece of cotton wool between tho nail and the
toe at the corner in which the nail shows a
tendency to grow into tho flesh. The nail will
gradually grow at each side towards the incision
until the latter is closed, and the tendency to
grow inwards at the corner of the too will thus
be effectively checked.
Perspiring Feet. - Some people are afflicted
with feet that perspire to an abnormal degree.
Tliis is an extremely unpleasant affliction,
arising very often from some defect in the
general health. It frequently occurs in children,
often disappearing altogether as they grow older ;
but with adults, as a rule, the trouble is more
persistent.
In all cases strict cleanliness must be observed.
The feet should be bathed at night in warm
water to which a little Condy's Fluid heis been
added in tho proportion of a tea -spoonful of
Condy's Fluid to a pint of water. They should
bo bathed in tliis way after any considerable
exercise has been indulged in. Light woollen
stockings should be worn - never cotton ones -
and these should be frequently changed. Some-
times it will be found necessary to put on a
fresh pair of stockings every day. Strict atten-
tion must also bo given to tho general health.
In many cases it will be found that a good tonic
will be beneficial.
Tired and Sore Feet. - There are some kinds of
work which entail a woman being a groat deal
on her feet, and often her foot become very
tired and sore in consequence. There is nothing
more refreshing in these circumstances than to
sponge the feet with a little methylated spirits.
This treatment will cause tho soreness and
fatigue to disappear, and will, in addition, be
wondorfuUy refreshing.
CARE OF THE EARS
Wax should never be allowed to accumu-
late in tho ears. When the wax has become
so hardened that it is difficult to dislodge,
take enough soda to covnr a threepenny piece,
dissolve this in a dessert -spoonful of water, and
gontly drop it into the ear at night. This
HEALTH AND THE TOILET
465
will serve effectively to loosen the wax. In no
case attempt to dislodge wax by means of
hair-pins or any other sharp instrument. Much
injury can be done to the ears in this way.
In many cases it will be necessary to syringe
the ear with a special ear syringe.
MAKING UP
How far it is justifiable to have recourse to
art as an aid to good looks is, and has ever been,
a much debated question. Before, however,
trying to improve her appearance by the aid
of " make up," a woman should pause and
think, for once she has started making up there
will be no going back ; she will have to con-
tinue to do so. The pity of it is that it is most
often the women whose skins and complexions
leave nothing to be desired who are the first
to havo recourse to the aid of the rouge -box,
and who thus inevitably ruin their natural com-
plexions in the cult of the artificial.
There are some women, however, who, from
chronic ill-health or other causes, have such
sallow, unpleasing -looking skins that one cannot
blame them for seeking some sort of an aid to
beauty - that is to say, if they make up so
cleverly that the most practised eye cannot
detect it. The art of make up lies in concealing
the fact that art has been called in as an aid
to natiu-e. It is the clumsy and vulgar display
of rouge, the emphasising of the fact that the
complexion is fals-?, that jars so much upon
persons of refinement. On the other hand, one
cannot help but admire the woman who makes
up so cleverly that no one can tell her com-
plexion is not natural.
The first care of the woman who makes up
must be to do it well ; secondly, and by no means
loss important, she must never allow herself
to be seen without her make up. She should
make up the first thing in the morning, and not
follow the example of some women who make a
point of donning their complexions with their
visiting toilettes. A woman who acts in this
way carmot conceal the fact that she has
recourse to art, as the difference between her
natural complexion and her artificial one will
be too marked to escape general notice.
How to Make Up. - If a woman must make
up it ia necessary that she should know how to
do so without injuring the texture of her skin
in the process. Before attempting to apply the
rouge, the face should be thoroughly washed
with soap and warm water. After drying rub
some good skin food well into the skin pores
and wipe it o2 with a piece of soft rag. Tlien
apply a smaU quantity of the rouge to the
cheeks, finishing the process by dusting some
good powder over the face. Take off all
superfluous powder with a clean face chamois
leather.
Rouge may be had in the form of liquid,
powder, or paste.
Powder. - Powder for the face is now in such
general use that it has almost ceased to be
regarded as a cosmetic. Yet in spite of this,
great care must be taken in its application.
The face thickly coated with powder is not
pretty to look upon, and the pores of the skin
become very much coarsened as a result of its
indiscriminate use. Then some of the cheaper
powders contain very injurious ingredients.
Some face powders are, however, great boons to
very greasy skins, but they must only be lightly
dusted over the face with a clean powder puff
or face leather, and then all superfluous powder
should be dusted off. Care should be taken to
use only the pure powders, avoiding all pre-
parations containing merciuy and arsenic.
The Poudre Simon is one of the best face powders
to be had. It should be used sparingly in con-
jimction with Creme Simon if possible. The
Creme Simon, which is not the least bit greasy,
should be gently massaged into the skin, and
then rubbed off and the powder applied after-
wards.
Care must be taken to remove all traces of
powder and make up before retiring to rest at
night. To do this some good cold cream or
white vaseline should be rubbed lightly over
the face with a gentle massage movement,
then wiped off with a piece of clean soft rag,
and the face washed with soap and wsurm
water.
Papiers Poudris. - ^The little leaflets known as
Papiers Poudr^s are invaluable to the woman
who is a great deal out of doors in the warm
weather. They consist of diminutive sheets
of paper finely powdered at one side and enclosed
in a booklet from which they are easily detach-
able. One of these little leaflets gently passed
over the face when it is greasy and perspiring
will remove not only superfluous moisture, but
all dust and dirt. The Papiers Poudr6s may
be piirchased from most chemists.
2q
THE CHILD
"With mothers who wish conscientiovisly to fulfil their duty towards their children in every way
a certain sense of responsibility is ever present. They do not always know how to act in varying
circumstances wliich may crop up, whether in connection with the rearing of their children in ii\f ancy,
the care of their health in childhood, or the important question of education in later years. It is
said that knowledge comes with experience, but too often this knowledge will have been only too
-deeurly bought I The advice in regard to the management of children contained in this chapter is
the result of experience, and it is trusted that many a mother who is in doubt in regard to any parti-
cular question of child management, may find a way out of her difficiilty by referring to these pages,
-and so take swivantage of the experience gained by others.
PREPARING FOR MOTHERHOOD
Very soon in the married lives of most young
wives comes a time when the knowledge is
brought home to them that they are to be called
upon to fulfil woman's noblest mission - the
mission of motherhood. To the really womanly
wife, the thought that she is to become a mother
will be sweet indeed, joy tempered with a sense
of reverence maybe at the great responsibility
of the little Ufe to be entrusted to her care. That
there should be a little nervotisness at the pros-
pect, too, is perhaps not unnatural, but it should
be but passing when it is remembered that, by
careful living during the months prior to baby's
birth, nature will be materially assisted, and
will, in her own way, reward the expectant
mother who has helped her.
A woman can never sufficiently realise the
importance of those months before her little one
is born. She should remember that if she builds
up her strength during this period, she will not
• only be much better fitted for the ordeal before
her, but she will also fulfil her responsibility to
the little life in her keeping, for it is well known
that upon the care taken of herself by the mother
during pregnancy will largely depend the future
health of her child.
The expectant mother should lead a simple
and regular yet gently active life, a strict ob-
servance of the laws of hygiene being more than
ever important at this period, when not only her
own welfare, but also that of her child must be
ecured. Too much stress cannot be laid upon
the necessity for plenty of pure fresh air, whole-
some food taken at regular meals, sufficient
exercise, judicious rest, and hygienic and cheer-
ful surroundings. If any of these are wanting,
then the health of both mother and child will be
needlessly jeopardised.
Pure Air. - Plenty of pvire freeh air is the first
important essential. Enjoying the benefit of
the air out of doors is not sufficient - indoors all
the rooms should be fresh and well ventilated.
The bedroom window especially should alvraj's
be kept open at the top. Plenty of fresh air at
night will do a great deal to obviate that tendency
to sleeplessness which often manifests itself
towards the end of the period of waiting.
Exercise. - Sufficient exercise, including the
daily walk in the open air, is also a necessity.
The woman wlio thinks her whole day should
he spent reclining upon a couch, and imagines
herself incapable of exertion of any kind, is
storing up much future ill for both herself and
her child. She must have regular exercise,
going cheerfully through the performance of
hght household duties, though any straining in
the way of reaching up to high shelves, lifting
heavy weights, &c., must, of course, be avoided.
Though exercise in moderation is beneficial, it
should not be indulged in to excess. A woman
should not take such long walks as to cause
exhaustion, nor should she indulge in violent
exercise such as is afforded by tennis and other
similar games. Riding and cycling should also
bo given up. Tlie enthusiastic follower of all
kinds of athletic pursuits should take special
warning, for if she continues to indulge in these
pastimes to any groat extent, she will use up all
her strength and energy and will therefore have
no reserve to draw upon when the time comes
when both will be so greatly needed. Another
important thing to bear in mind is that during
the first three months and the last few weeks
of pregnancy travelling by bus, train, or tram
should be avoided as far as possible, for the
disturbing influence of the severe jolting often
experienced in this way is most injurious, and
a miscarriage at times may be the result.
Diet. - Strict attention to diet is all-important.
Meals should be taken at regular intervals.
"66
THE CHILD
467
Eating should not be indiilged in between meals.
Heavy and highly seasoned foods should be
avoided, also pastry and other sweet things
likely to cause that much -dreaded ill - indigestion.
Plenty of fruit and green vegetables should be
taken, as these will tend to prevent constipation.
Very fattening and starchy foods should be only
taken sparingly. Excessive tea or coffee-drink-
ing is most injurious - though, if taken in modera-
tion, tea is really an excellent beverage. Plenty
of milk should always be taken if possible. Good
cooking is essential. The diet should also be
pleasantly varied, as the distaste for food so
often resulting from monotony must be avoided
at all costs. It is a mistake to think that stimu-
lants are necessary during this period. Indeed,
they are apt to be actually harmful at times,
and should never be taken excepting under
medical advice.
The Daily Bath. - This is most important in
pregnancy. There is less likely to be kidney
trouble when the bath is taken regularly. Any
puffiness of the face or Hmbs should, however,
be reported to the doctor, as early treatment
will often prevent tiresome complications later
on.
Rest. - The maxim " Early to bed and early
to rise " should be religiously observed by the
expectant mother. At least eight hours of sleep
should be aimed at. Ten o'clock is a good
hour for retiring, 7 or 7.30 o'clock a good time
for rising in the morning, and unless there
is trouble with " morning sickness," breakfast
should be taken downstairs. A freshly-made
cup of tea takon before rising is often helpful.
Every day an hour's rest should be taken in a
darkened room on bed or sofa after the mid-day
meal. Rest of the body is not the only essential,
for rest of the mind is almost as important in
every way. On account of the severe strain to
which her nervous system is being subjected,
a woman is more inclined to give way to irrita-
biUty and nerves at this than at any other time.
She should guard herself against this tendency
by being firmly determined never to worry
over trifles, and doing her utmost to maintain
an attitude of calm equanimity. Self-control
should be aimed at upon all occasions, and a
cheerful, happy, and contented frame of mind
should be cultivated. Any tendency to morbid
despondency must be sternly combated. It
must be remembered that cheerful and beautiful
surroundings do more than anything else to
foster cheerfulness of mind, a fact that should
be remombered by friends and relations. Any
sudden news entailing either excessive grief or
excessive joy is harmful, and shocks of any kind
should be avoided. Late hours and all kinds of
excitement sliould be altogether abjured. Going
to At Homes or theatres means spending a num-
ber of hours in stuffy, ill-ventilated rooms and in
an atmosphere of excitement which is far from
beneficial. The expectant mother should be
prepared to forego these amusements, realising
that a power of self-sacrifice is not one of the
least attributes which will qualify her for the
noble mission of motherhood. All social inter-
course, however, need not be abandoned during
these months of waiting. Simple little social
gatherings and the society of bright and cheerful
friends will do good. It is the constant striv-
ing after pleasure and excitement, the strain of
keeping up with an endless round of social en-
gagements, which is harmful. All morbid and
sensational literature should be avoided. Let
the woman who is to be a mother cultivate
beautiful thoughts by reading wise and beautiful
books. Let her frame of mind be such as will
fit her to guide the mind of the Uttle life entrusted
to her care. Such, no doubt, has been the mental
attitude of the mothers of many of our wise men
and brave heroes, and such should be the mental
attitude of the mother who wishes to qualify
herseK in every way for the high calUng of
motherhood.
Dress during this period is an important
consideration. In the first place hygiene and
comfort must be studied, and as far as possible
an effort must be made to avoid appearing
conspicuous. In regard to the wearing of
corsets, opinions differ, though it is generally
acknowledged that it is \^er not to discard
them. To wear tight stays would be foolish
and harmful, and corsets of the straight -fronted
type mu.^t be altogether tabooed. There are
special corsets, however, particularly suitable
for maternity wear. These are very hghtly
boned, opening at the sides, and expandable.
They are very comfortable and afford great
support to the figure. If the breasts become
very enlarged and tender, what are known as
" bust corsets " should be worn over the regular
stays. They may be obtained from most drapers
for a very small outlay. All clothing should be
warm and hght, whilst compression of any part
of the body should be avoided. Suspenders
should be worn instead of garters, as the latter
tend to impede the circulation. High-heeled
shoes are always injiu-ious, but they are more
than ever so at this time. Wliile care is taken
to dress hygienically and sensibly, a woman
should not give way to the inclination of being
careless and indifferent in regard to her personal
appearance. She should endeavour to drees
both indoors and out of doors as neatly as pos-
sible under the circvuustances.
It is inadvisable to spoil good clothes by alter-
ing them and attempting to adapt them to the
increasing figure. Good gowns tinkered about
with in this way can seldom bo worn afterwards.
It is also most injurious for a woman to endeavour
to squeeze herself into tight gowns at those
times. She will naturally wish to avoid looking
conspicuous, bvit she will only make matters
worse by resorting to the measiu-es above
described. Special maternity dresses with ad-
468
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
just able bands arc made at all the leading Iswlies'
costumiers and outfitting establisliments, and
every woman who prizes her health as well as
her appearance should invest in one or two of
these garments at such times. It is quite easy
to ask for the lady at the head of the costume
department at one of these establishments and
explain to her wliat is wanted. The dresses are
fitted by expert fitters who thoroughly under-
stand their work, and such a garment cannot fail
to prove satisfactory in every way. Ladies
also make a mistake in wearing heavy loose
voluminous cloaks at these times. A well-
fitting skirt specially made and a long coat are
the ideal outdoor wear for the expectant mother.
None but dark colotu-s should be worn, as hght
colours only serve to attract attention to the
figure.
Indoor gowns should be made of voile and
other light-weight materials, as these do not tend
to look bulky at the waist. Skirts to indoor
dresses should also be specially made mounted
upon elastic bands, the front gore extending
above the waist-band so that it can easily be let
down, with pleats at the side that can be let
out. These skirts can often be undertaken at
home by the good needlewoman with the aid of
a suitable pattern. A prettily made tea-gown
is also a very useful garment for indoor wear.
INCIDENTAL AILMENTS
A woman is very prone to various nervous and
digestive cUsorders at this time, and though
these can Ido greatly minimised by careful living,
yet thoy are apt to occiir in some form or other
in spite of every precaution, and always call for
judicious treatment. Chief amongst these ail-
ments are : -
Morning Sickness. - During the early months
especially vomiting is apt to occur almost at
the same time every morning. Strict attention
to the diet must be paid. The action of the
bowels must also be properly regulated. Rest in
bed daily until the time when the vomiting is
apt to occur has passed will often prove a good
preventative. Very often nausea and sickness
occur after meaLs. If this trouble is pcrsiftent a
doctor should be consultcd,and the paticntfahould
be put upon a special diet.
Sleeplessness is another common feature of the
condition, especially during the later months.
As a rule, it will bo found much ea-^ier to resume
one's rest after a thorough rousing and a cup of
hot milk, with maybe ton minutes' light reading,
t! an to toss from side to side endeavouring in
vain to court the sleep one needs so badly.
Material comfort will also help, and, besides two
pillows beneath the head, try a third, placed
(parallel ^vith the others) beneath the ribs, so
that, while lying on the side, the arm can be
placed between the two sets of pillows without
suffering undue pressure. Heavy meals at night
should bo avoided, and the bedroom should be
properly ventilated.
Toothache may, during pregnancy, generally
be relieved bj' taking fifteen to twenty grains
of phosphate of lime, incorporated in tho food,
twice daily.
Heartburn is due to indigestion, and rich food
should be strictly avoided by those subject to
this distressing complaint. Take occasionally
some calcined magnesia (the dose to be advised
by chemist or doctor), or half a tea-spoonful of
bicarbonate of soda in a wine-glassful of warm
water.
Constipation will probably cease if fresh fruit
be eaten each morning on rising. See to it
that sufficient drink is taken also, particularly of
cold water, early in the day. If possible, over-
come the constipation by attention to diet
rather than by drugging, but on no account
allow it to continue, or your recovery may be
considerably retarded after baby's arrival.
Nervous Worry may evidence itself by a
tendency to magnify trifles, which at other times
would pass unnoticed, into positive calamities,
while noises, sights, and smells which, under
ordinary circumstances, would be accounted
notliing, will sometimes thoroughly upset a
woman in this condition.
She will also often give way to tears upon the
least provocation. A regular simple mode of
life with the avoidance of all excitement and
determined effort to exercise self-control will do
much to remedy this state of things.
Varicose Veins and swelling of the feet are
apt to occur. In these circumstances it is neces-
sary to rest with the feet up as much as possible.
The legs should be bandaged ; crepe bandag'.'S
are much the best for the purpose, as they aie
light, elastic, easily washed, and give great
support. Tlacy should be three inches in width
ai^d cost about Is. 8d. each.
THE MOTHER'S REQUIREMENTS
Early selection should bo made of tho room
in which the lying-in is to take place in order
that everything is in readiness. Tlie room
chosen should be as large and airy as possible,
and situated preferably in a quiet part of the
house, where there will not be undue disturb-
ance from street and other noises. Cleanliness
and freedom from germs is indispensable, and
a few days before the room is likely to be
required it should be thoroughly cleaned. The
bod should not be placed with one side to the
wall, but in a position which will allow plenty
of space at either side. A screen will bo useful
to keep off draughts. A fire should be laid in
the grate, so that it can be Hghted when needed
and a kettle placed in readiness in which water
can bo boiled, as plenty of hot water will bo
required.
Do not leave everything until tho last moment,
THE CHILD
469
or in an emergency unstiitable and unnecessary
purchases will likely be made. As a rule, the
niirse or doctor will give instructions as to what
to provide, but if not it will be wise to have the
following in the house : -
Three yards gamgee tissue.
One pound absorbent cotton wool.
Two or three packets sanitary towels (2s. 6d.
size).
One bottle Lysol (disinfectant).
One pot good vaseline.
One or two dozen nickel safety-pins.
Two and three-quarter yards fine linen towel-
ling for binders.
A mackintosh sheet one yard square (this must
be mackintosh on both sides).
A bed-pan (sUpper shape preferred).
Some yellow soap (Castile or Prinu-ose).
A leel of white hnen tliread.
A bottle of castor-oil.
A small supply of brandy.
One dozen night-lights (eight hovirs size).
A rubber hot-water bottle.
Night-dresses and bed-linen (well aired).
A supply of bedroom towels.
BABY'S OUTFIT
This should bo all in readiness about two
months before baby is expected. The number
and style of the Httle tilings will to a large extent
depend upon the social position of the mother
and the means at disposal, and the following
suggestions arc only offered as a guide.
Baby's Bassinette or Cot. - This is an absolute
necessity, as a baby should never be allowed to
sleep in the same bed as its mother. Tliere are
several different kinds of cots at prices ranging
from a few sliillings to several pounds. There
is no need to buy anything elaborate unless one
is willing to spend a large sum.
For a simple bassinette perhaps there is nothing
betterthan one of the Japanese travelling baskets.
The two pieces should be comfortably lined with
Japanese Basket.
quilted sateen or some good washing material,
and while one piece serves as the bed, thr other
can be placed over the end to act as a shade and
screen. Tliis improvised bassinette has also the
advantage of being very light and easily moved
about, and, again, if travelling has to be done it
will form a receptacle for baby's little wardrobe.
Then there are also the basket and metal cots.
These are generally trimmed with pink or blue
sateen covered with wlute muslin and laco or
with a simple covering of some pretty light -
coloured washing material. There must always
be a curtain or hood to protect the little sleeper
from the light or a draught, and the cot must also
Basket as Cradle.
be raised above the ground on a steady stand.
Tt is best to have it the height of the mother's
bed.
A well-made wicker bassinette costs from
3s. 6d. and upwards, and a stand 5s. or 6s. extra,
while the metal cots swung on a stand can be had
for 10s. and upwards. If bought ready trimmed
they -will cost from about 30s. extra, according
to the material chosen and the amount of work
put on it. Many, however, prefer to trim their
bassinette at home, and for a few shillings it is
quite possible to make a very dainty little bed.
The accompanying illustration shows one of the
simplest styles. Pink and blue are the favourite
Trimmed Bassinette.
colours for trimming a bassinette, although somo
prefer to keep them all white. Cotton sateen
with a covering of plain or spotted muslin are the
usual materials employed. Tlie inside must first
be lined ^rith quilted sateen or with plain sateen
and a domette interlining. Cut the muslin frill
half as full again as the size of the cot and deep
enougli to allow of a wide hem. Or it may be
edged with some pretty lace. Tliere should also
be a frill of the coloured sateen under the muslin,
but this %\-ill not require to be so wide. Draw
up both frills, sew them to the edge of the cot.
470
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
T\\e curtain is made with muslin lined with the
coloured satoen and is generally trimmed with
laco. It should bo two and a half or three y6""ds
in width and long enough to clear the ground by
four or five inches. Draw it up vrith a strong
tape at the top and fix it to the arm of the cot.
Then finish o£f with rosettes of coloured ribbon.
The other requirement for the cot will bo a tiny
hair mattress, a little rounded pillow to fit the
head part, some warm soft blankets, a piece of
mackintosh, and a dainty cover made of the same
sateen and muslin as the covering of the cot, and
prettily trimmed with lace, or if the weather is
cold a hght eiderdown quilt may take its place.
There should also be a tiny hot-water bottle -
an ordinary ginger-beer bottle with a tight screw
and a woollen bag will serve the purpose.
The little mattress may either be stuSed with
hair, or, if this is too expensive, dried fern leaves,
cocoanut fibre, fine shavings, or chaS all make
good substitutes, and it is much wiser to use one
of the cheaper materials and renew frequently
than to stuff the mattress with hair and go on
using it in an unhealthy state.
The Basket. - This is \ased to hold all the re-
quirements for the baby's toilet, and is generally
lined and trimmed to match the bassinette. A
Untrimmed Basket.
flat vmlined basket can be bought for from 2s. 6d.
upwards, and one on a stand for about 7s. 6d. -
the trimming usually costs 78. or 8s. extra.
Here, again, the work of lining can easily be done
at homo when expense is a consideration. The
iiiside should be fitted with two or tliree pockets
Trimmed Basket.
to hold the smaller articles, and there must be a
pretty cover to lay over the top. Sometimes tho
high baskets are made on casters, when they can
be easily moved about.
The basket should contain the following : -
a tiny hair brush, a fine soft sponge, good pure
Boap in a soap-bos, refined Fuller's earth or fine
talcum dusting powder, a closed puff-box, a pot
of white vaseline, boracic Unt and some old soft
handkorcliiefs, a pin-cushion with good supply of
safety-pins, needles, white cotton, a thimble, a
pair of scissors, narrow tape, a bodkin. Then on
the top might be laid a set of clothes ready for
tho little stranger's arrival - a flannel binder, a
knitted woollen vest, a flannel nightgown, soft
napkins, a fine white shawl, and a square of
flannel.
Other Requirements. - A little bath, one or two
soft bath-towels, and two bathing aprons for
nurse.
THE LAYETTE
Essentials in Clothing. - All clothing must be
warm, porous, and light. Warm, because heat
is as important as food to the young life, and
we must do our utmost to guard our little ones
against chills ; porous, to allow the pores of the
skin to act freely and thus keep it in a healthy
condition ; and light so as not to encumber
movement nor cause any waste of power. The
garments must at the same time be elastic,
fitting the part closely but not too tightly, in
order to leave room for growth and the regular
expansion of the Uttle frame. Wool in some fornl
or other is the substance best adapted to meet
all these requirements ; it is far better than the
muslins and lace so invariably associated with
a baby's outfit. Tlie material should be as
fine and soft as possible. Wincey, delaine, nun's
veihng, and viyella are all suitable for the upper
garments, as they will wash and keep their
colour well, while the finest flannel may bo used
for underneath. Another advantage of the
woollen outfit is that the garments can easily
be washed at homo. It is also more economical
as far as washing is concerned, because the
clothes do not crease nor soil so quickly, and if
tho rule is followed that all clothing be aired in
the fresh air and afterwards by a fire before being
put on again, a petticoat, a dress, and a night-
dress will often last a week.
It is also important to have tho clother simply
made so that they may be readily put on and
taken off and washed without difficulty. The
weight, too, must be evenly distributed. White
is always to be preferred to any colour, especially
for the young infant.
There have been many attempts at reform in
infants' clothing, but old customs dio hard, and
although woollen garments are more generally
introduced into the layette than formerly, there
are still some mothers who insist upon having
the little beings decked out in a mass of starched
lace, frills, and embroidery. However, as a rule,
baby is now dressed in a more common-sense
way ; ornamentation has to a largo extent given
way to comfort and utility, and tlio welfare of the
little body comes first. The old style of low neck
and short sleeves is rarely seen ; tho pretty little
lawn shirt, the first garment to be put on, is also
THE CHILD
47r
a thing of the past, and is replaced by a wool or
silk vest, while the dainty embroidered ca^js are
also condemned as fitting too closely to the head
to be healthy.
Although woollen garments are recommended,
there is no need to have them clumsy and ugly.
The material may still bo fine and the stitches
small, wliile the little frocks give ample scope
for embroidery and dainty needlework. In
fact, there is no objection to cambric and silk
frocks still being worn as long as there is a
sufficiency of woollen clothing underneath.
First Clothing Required. - ^The mistake is often
made in providing too much clothing, al^d it is
forgotten that the baby will outgrow the first
little garments in a few weeks and that it is
really a waste of money to buy an unnecessary
amount. There must, of course, be a large enough
supply to keep the baby in a clean and healthy
condition and to allow for frequent washing.
The following list includes all that is necessary
for the first tliree months, but of course it may be
indefinitely enlarged, according to fancy and the
means of the mother : -
Four vests of fine woven or knitted wool or
of silk and wool.
Three binders.
Four long flannels or barracoats.
Four woollen night-dresses.
Fom* monthly gowns- delaine, nmi's veiHng,
or other woollen material.
Six flannel squares (Pilches).
Twenty -four Turkish towelling napkins.
One or two small Shetland shawls.
Four pairs knittea shoes.
One large Shetland or knitted shawl
One woollen hood.
In addition to the above there might be two
or three pretty embroidered muslin or silk gowns
for special occasions.
^Vhite petticoats are now little used, and are
only required under a light robe. A carrying
cloak and bonnet is often preferred to the large
shawl and woollen hood for out of doors. When
tliis is the case, one or two little woollen jackets
for wearing under the cloak should be supplied.
Prettily embroidered head flannels may take the
place of the small shawls for indoor use, but they
are not so Hght.
Although it is not usual to prepare the short
clothes before the birth of the baby, the following
vs^ll be required after the first tliree months : -
Four larger vests.
Two pair flannel stays.
Fovu" pairs woollen drawers.
Four woollen petticoats T^dth bodices.
Four woollen dresses.
Four night-dresses.
Four pairs woollen socks.
Twenty-four larger napkins.
Six bibs.
Here, again, the Ust may be supplemented by
the addition of some silk or embroidered muslin
dresses. A coat and bonnet miglit also take the
place of the shawl and hood for out of doors.
Although called short, they ought to come below
the feet to begin with, and can be shortened
after another three months by making a few
tucks.
On Making the Layette. - What a world of
pleasure does a mother take in making with her
own hands the tiny garments which must be in
readiness for the arrival of " Baby," and how
many loving thoughts are interwoven with the
minute stitches in which it is her pride to excel.
More especially is this the case when preparing
the layette for her first child, for then there are
no elder children to claim their share of attention.
A mother should not, however, permit the pre-
paration of baby's trousseau to encroach too
much upon her time. She must remember that
it is a mistake to spend hours and hours
stitching and sewing to the injury of her
health, and that she would be much better
spending the time or part of the time at least
in taking healthy exercise in the open air. On
the other hand, sewing for baby in moderation
will prove an interesting and pleasant pastime,
and the Uttle flannel garments especially can
very easily be undertaken by the expectant
mother. A treadle machine must on no account
* No. 32940. Infant's Long-Clothing Set.
be used, although there is not the same objection
to an easily worked hand-macliine being employed
for the longer seams.
Of course, if there £ire other willing hands to
• Patterns of this set of garments may be obtained from
Weldons, Ltd., Fashion Publisliers, 30 & 31 Southampton
Street, Strand, London, W.C, price 6d., post free 7d. Pattern,-
numbers should be quoted when ordering.
472
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
help, there is no reason why the whole o£ the
layette sliould not be made at home, and cer-
tainly by so doing many a slulling will be saved
and better matorial procured.
Good patterns should always be used when
cutting out baby garments. Tliose who under-
take this work cannot do better than write to
Weldon's for their Infant's Long-Clotliing set
of patterns, consisting of seven different pieces
as illustrated, price 6d., post free Id., and also for
the Short -Clothing Set consisting of six different
• No. 37950. Infant's Short-Clothing Set.
pieces at the same price. Full directions for
making each garment are given with the
patterns, also particulars as to the amount of
material required. They have been proved
most satisfactory by those competent to judge.
The tiny garments should be made of the
finest material that can be afforded, and the
utmost nicety is required in their manufacture.
They must bo sewn together with the most
delicate needlework, the seams must be narrow,
and no part of the garments must bo hard or
made in such a way as to cau-so discomfort.
Tlicre must be no lumpy buttons or hooks to
press on the tender flesh, but fine soft tape
should bo used for the principal fastenings.
Care must bo taken in the making of arm-holes
and sleeves so as to avoid any pulling or strain-
ing, and there must bo no tightness anywhere.
Everything must be made to look as pretty as
possible for the little stranger.
rhe Binder. - This is the firpt article of clothing
put on the baby. It should be made of a strip
of flannel torn across the material. It should be
six inches wide, so that half a yard of flannel will
• Patterns of this set of garments may be obtained from
Weldons, Ltd., Fashion Publishers, 30 Street, Strand, London, W.C, price6d.,po8tfree7d. Pattern
numbers should be quoted when ordering.
make three binders. They must not be hemmed
or sewn in any way. The binder is used to give
warmth to the abdomen, and it also forms a
fomidation on wliich to pin the diaper. It
should be rolled round the little body quite
easily and fastened with a safety-pin with a
shielded point, or by means of a few stitches.
The Vest. - Tliis may either be hand-knitted or
woven and should be made of the very finest wool,
or of silk and wool. It should have high neck
and long sleeves if for winter wear, and be long
enough to cover the abdomen. It is always
better to have the fastening at the side, and
French tape or baby ribbon is always better than
buttons.
Napkins and Pilches. - Napkins are best made
of Turkish towelling. They should be half a
yard wide and tliree -quarters of a yard in length,
and made single, as they are more easily washed.
The two opposite corners should be folded to-
gether so as to form a triangle. The folded side
of this triangle is put round the infant's waist
and fastened with a safety-pin to the binder.
Then the point is brought up between the legs
and fastened in front. The first pilch is made of
• No. 37947. Head Flannel and Pilch.
flannel and is worn over the napkin for safety's
sake. It might either be in the form of a square
and put on in the same way as the napkin,
or it might be shaped as in illustration. A
mackintosh pilch is sometimes used to save
frequent changing, but this is most reprehensible,
and generally shows laziness and lack of attention
on the part of the nurse. The mackintosh acts
as a sort of compress and is most unhealthy. It
might be used for an hour or two on any special
THE CHILD
473
occasion when an accident is to be dreaded,
but under no other circumstance.
The Barracoat or Flannel Petticoat. - This is the
next article of clothing. It should be made with
the body and skirt in one and should fasten on
the shouldei's. It is a mistake to make it too
long, as it only adds weight - a few inches below
the feet will be quite sufficient. Sometimes a
second petticoat is worn made of fine lawn or
nainsook, but this is not necessary with a
woollen frock.
The Frock. - The material of which tliis is made
naust vary according to circumstances, and, as
said before, some woollen material is best. Nun's
veiUng is suitable for summer wear, while for
winter wincey or viyella will be better. For
daintier wear or special occasions white silk
trimmed with lace or a dainty embroidered
muslin might be used.
Woollen Bootees and Drawers. - Little wooUen
bootees should be worn night and day. They
can either be knitted or crocheted, and should
be warm and roomy. When the clothes are
shortened, the bootees should be long enough to
come weU up the legs for protection. Woollen
drawers are also useful for slipping on when the
baby is taken out of doors, and sometimes they
are made all in one with the bootees.
Bibs. - These should be made of a material
which does not readily absorb moisture. Soft
Turkish towelling with a scalloped edge are best
for ordinary wear, while one made of embroidered
silk can bo worn for best.
For Outdoor Wear. - For the first three
months there is nothmg more comfortable than
a shawl and a Uttle knitted bonnet, although
many mothers prefer the cloak made of fine
cashmere or silk trimmed with swansdown or
silk embroidery. Care must be taken when the
cloak is used that the weight of it does not hang
from the baby's shoulder. A Uttle knitted
jacket should always be worn underneath the
cloak.
Gloves. - Wlien the child is older the tiny
hands should be protected with gloves mthout
fingers. These should be tied in at the wrist and
fastened in place with a safety-pin.
(For Children's Clothes, see p. 495.)
For those who wish to buy the little garments
ready made, most of the large drapery establish-
ments will supply lists giving the prices of the
various articles, and special ladies' outfitters
are always ready to give all the necessary infor-
mation as to quality and prices.
THE MONTHLY NURSE
It will first bo necessary to decide whether to
engage a trained nurse or an untrained one, a
choice which will doubtless be influenced by such
considerations as income and mode of living ; for,
naturally, the trained midwife expects a higher
fee than her self-trained colleague. Moreover,
she will not undertake any ordinary household
duties, knowing full well that mother and babe
will make such demands on her time as to leave
no leisure for her to attend to any matters
outside the sick-room.
It is not unusual for a doctor to give particu-
lars of several n\irses to patients whose accouche -
monts he undertakes. Before closing with any
one of them, it is always well to obtain references
from previous patients similarly circumstanced
to yourself, that you may ascertain whether,
besides being sldlled at her work, the nurse of
your choice is also a pleasant woman to live
with. You do not want any one whose presence
is hkely to prove irritating, nor who wiU be
lacking in both tact and sympathy.
The nurse is usually paid by the week or month,
and will expect, in addition to her fee, laundry
expenses, as well as her fare, should she come a
long distance. If she is engaged to attend the
patient some weeks before the expected event,
it is usual to pay half-fee for the period of
waiting.
A good deal of possible friction will be saved
if at the time of engagement there is a clear
understanding as to exactly what duties the nurse
may be expected to perform. The bedroom is
in her sole charge and she will see to the dusting
of it, but she will expect the relaying and hght-
ing of the fire to be done by the maid. Attend-
ance in the way of bringing up hot water, meals,
&c., will also have to be given by the latter, as
the trained nurse cannot be asked to do house-
work of any kind. Details such as the washing
of napkins, &c., are also points which will have
to be settled with the nurse \ipon engagement.
If possible, the nvu"se should take her mc als in
a room by herself ; she should not be expected
to join the servants in the kitchen. The meals
should be served preferably in a dressing-room
adjoining that of the patient, as in these cu-cum-
stances, especially dm-ing the first daj's after
the confinement, she will be at hand in caSQ
of need.
Baby's Arrival. - Once these arrangements
are complete, everything will be in readiness for
baby's arrival. The nurse will have probably
taken up residence in the house a few days
beforehand, and will thus be able to notify those
in attendance as to when the doctor should be
summoned. The management of the confine-
ment will now be in the hands of the doctor
and nurse who have undertaken the case, and
their instructions should be carried out in evei'y
way.
If baby arrives unexpectedly when neither
doctor nor nurse aie present, the person in
attendance should see that he is placed in a
position to breathe properly and that he is not
being suffocated with clothing. Afterwards well
wash his eyes with plain warm water and clean
pieces of old linen, and then cover him with a
soft warm blanket, and ho will take no hurt for
474
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
some time, until experienced assistGince can be
procured.
THE NURSERY
Whenever possible, there should bo a room set
apart for the children of the house, a room in
■which they can play and spend happily the hours
they are not sleeping or out of doors. Let the
nursery bo one of the largest and healthiest
rooms in the house, not a room in the attics
■which is liable to be too hot in summer and too
cold in winter, nor yet one in the basement
•which will bo dark and possibly damp as well.
The ideal nursery has a south or south-west
aspect ; it is lofty and spacious, ■with a fireplace,
a good window that opens top and bottom, and a
cheerful outlook. Unfortunately, it is not always
possible to find a room fulfilling all these require-
ments, but we can always do our best, remember-
ing that fine healthy children cannot bo reared in
dark and cheerless rooms, so let us give them all
the sunsliine and good air we can if we -wish
them to develop physically and mentally, for
they are like the flowers which droop and grow
pale if they are left in the dark.
The walls should bo washable throughout -
distemper, enamel paint, or varnished paper are
all suitable coverings. A light harmoruous
colour is best, gi'ving a feeling of restfulness. If
paper is used, it must be of a very simple pattern ;
in fact, there is nothing so charming as the plain
coloured wall. Monotony can be avoided by the
use of a simple coloured frieze with a few figures
of animals, birds, or flowers, &c., and designed
by some good firm. All intricate patterns and
multiplicity of design must be avoided ; papers
covered with pictures that tell stories only tire
and confuse the child's mind. There might also
be a few good pictures on the walls of objects
that will interest children, but never permit
anything in the way of rubbish - ^rather leave
the walls bare. Pictures must not be hung too
liigh.
The best floor covering is cork carpet, as it is
warm and washable and very durable. Indian
matting and Unolcum are also good, but the
latter is cold, and ruga would be required. Un-
covered floors are not good, unless of the real
parquet flooring, as splinters are apt to come off
the wood and got into the little one's hands and
feet - and carpets are not hygienic.
As for furniture, the less there is the better,
and what there is should be of the simplest
description. It must be of a kind that is easily
washed and cleaned, with as few sharp angles
as possible, and arranged bo as to leave open
floor space for the children to have a full clear
run in which to exercise their limbs. A good
steady table for meals, a few chairs, a low chair
for nurse, a roomy cupboard, a toy-cupboard,
a low kindergarten table with a little chair for
each child are the principal articles required.
A nui-sory guard should bo firmly fixed to tho
fireplace, and one that covers the grate right over
is the best. It is a convenience, too, to have a
Nursery Fire-Guard.
rail on the outside on which little garments can
be put to warm.
A good cupboard for the nurse's vise ia very
necessary, or it might be a cupboard and chest
of drawers combined. If meals are taken in the
nursery this •will hold the children's special
china, table linen and so forth, sewing materials
and many other odds and ends.
The toy-cupboard, too, is very essential if tho
children are to be taught to be tidy, and it is well
to allow a special shelf or division for each child.
It must also be low enough to bo within their
reach. A low kindergarten table with the little
miniature chairs will also be foimd useful when
the children are at an age to draw, paint, work
with clay, or amuse themselves with other quiet
occupations.
Another useful addition to the nursery is a play-
pen in which a child can be put to crawl about
Play-Pea
without any danger of its hurting itself. A
washable crawling rug will also bo useful, and a
cosy hearth-rug will give an appearance of com-
fort to the room.
When curtains are used they must bo made
of some washable material. Casement curtains
are really the best, as they do away with the
necessity of having blinds.
A high window should have one or two bars
fixed across it for safety.
A reliable clock and a thermometer must not
bo forgotten, and if bathing is done in the
nursery there shoiild be a good draught-screen.
Cleanliness and Ventilation. - It is very im-
portant that the nursery bo kept thoroughly
clean ; there must be cleanliness in every detail.
THE CHILD
475
The room miist be swept and dusted every day,
and the floor washed once a week. Care must
be taken on the day that the washing is done
that the children do not return to it until the
floor is dry. Choose a time when the children
are out of doors, or when they can spend several
hours in another room. After the washing is
done, both door and window must be left w^de
open so that a ctu'rent of air may dry the room,
and a good fire must be kept biu-ning unless the
weather is warm and bright.
The best time for cleaning the fireplace in the
nursery is in the evening, when the children are
in bed and nurse has finished with the room.
The fire can then be raked out, the grate cleaned,
and all made ready for putting a match to the
fire in the morning. The floor of the room
might also be swept in the evening, leaving only
the dusting to be done next day.
Good V cntilation is also very important in the
nursery, and fresh air must be admitted freely.
During the day all windows should be kept open
in warm weather, and in cold weather either one
window must be left open a little way, or a simple
Hinck's-Bird ventilator (see p. 8) inserted.
W^ien the children are out the windows might be
thrown wide open. Opportunity might also be
taken while the children are out of drying any
wet towels, &c., but tliis ought on no account to
be allowed when the nursery is occupied, as it
would make the air of the room too moist and
might be hurtful to young children.
The Night Nursery. - The apartment in which
the children sleep, whether it be the room
occupied by the nurbd as well or a special room
set apart for the children by themselves, must be
chosen and furnished as carefully as the day
nursery. The same rules as regards ventilation
and general arrangement will apply here.
The furniture should be as scanty as possible
and of a kind that wall wash. There must bo a
cot or little bed for each child and also a bed for
Cot with Drop-Side.
the nurse. There is nothing nicer than the little
wliite enamelled bods with a spring or wire
foundation, as they can be so easily washed and
kept clean. A cot is always best when it is made
with a lirop-side ; the bed is more easily made,
and it is also a simpler mat^^er to get at the child.
Very young children should have their cots
covered with a net to prevent them getting over
the sides and hurting themselves.
The most suitable bedding is a good hair
mattress and a low soft pillow. It is most
important that the mattress should be fresh and
clean ; it should be taken to pieces periodically
and thoroughly aired and renewed if necessary.
The covering must be warm, but as light as
possible - an under -blanket, one or two upper
blankets, and an eiderdown or light cover will be
necessary. Good cotton sheets will also be
required for the older children, but none for the
baby's bed. A mackintosh sheet should also be
supplied for the bed of a very young child.
The floor of the night nursery should be
covered with linoleum or cork carpet or left bare,
and two or three rugs should be supplied for
putting at the side of the beds.
The nurse will also require a dressing-table for
her own use and a chest of drawers or other
receptacle for keeping her clothes.
There should also be one or two chairs, one
low chair and a screen. If the bath-room is
close at hand a wash-stand will not be required.
Casement curtains of a pretty green or other
soft shade will be the best for keeping out the
light, and will do away with the necessity for
bUnds.
Apart from the actual furniture required, the
children's sleeping-room should be left as empty
as possible. There should be no boxes stored
under beds nor on the top of wardrobes, no
garments left hanging on pegs, nor a quantity of
books, pictures, and ornaments, which only help
to collect dust.
The window should be left open night and day,
and when heating is necessary it should be by
means of an open fire and not a stove. Gas
should not be left burning in the bedroom at
night, but a night-light may be used if a light is
needed.
THE NURSE
Choice and Qualifications. - Too great care
cannot be taken in the choice of a nurse for
the little ones. There is hardly any position
so full of trust and responsibility, and when a
mother realises that the health and character
of her children in after life will to a large extent
be determined by the treatment they receive
in the first years of their life, she will make every
effort and even sacrifice rather than lot tliem be
under the control of an ignorant or unprincipled
woman.
A good nurse ought to bo fond of children,
good tempered, and thoroughly trustworthy.
She must be healthy and active, bright and
happy-looking, and capable of gentle firmness.
It is important also that she speaks well and
has no defect or peculiarity of any kind, as
children are very quick to imitate both the bad
and the good.
Personal cleanliness is another important
476
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
qualification, and as regards dress this must
always bo neat and tidy and very simple in style.
Some people insist upon their nurses wearing
wlute, but this Ls not always adx-isable. For
one thing, the continual glare of everything
wliite, especieilly out of doors, is not considered
good for bab}''8 eyes, and then the washing is a
consideration, as white, if worn at all, must be
clean. A nice soft grey or navy blue is pre-
ferable, or grey might be worn in summer and
blue in winter. Tlio morning-dress should be
of linen or other washing material, and for the
afternoon alpaca, beige, or serge would be suitable.
An apron must always be worn indoors. The
out-of-door costume must be quiet and neat -
there is no occasion for her to wear the uniform
of a hospital nurse - in fact, this should rather be
avoided - a jacket or coat to match the dress in
colour and a hat or bonnet with a ribbon trim-
ming are perhaps the most suitable. White
gloves should always be worn when taking out
a baby.
A nurse should be a good needlewoman. She
may not be called upon to make new garments
for the children, but she is generally expected
to keep their clothing in order and do little
renovations.
A knowledge of laundry work and simple
nursery cookery are also useful acquirements,
and if she has experience in treating the simple
ailments of children, or knows what to do in a
case of emergency, she will be all the more valu-
able to her employer.
Unfortunately, it is not always easy to find
all the above requirements in one woman. It
very often happens that the one who is com-
petent is not good-tempered and resents any
interference, or that the good-tempered one
lacks knowledge. This makes it all the more
important that the mother should always take
the chief supervision ; in fact, it is one of her
first duties, and she ought under all circum-
stances to reign supreme in her own nursery,
and no matter how clever and experienced the
niu-so may be it is never right to give her the full
control of the children.
Duties. - Ab regards the duties of the nurse and
the order in which they are to be performed, it is
almost impossible to set down any rules which
will suit all cases. There must be a plan and a
time-table, but it is for every mother either to
make her own, or to do so in consultation with
her nurse, and then to see that it is adhered to.
The duties will naturally vary with the size of
the family and the number of servants kept,
and the mode of living. VVhen there are
several children and two nurses are kept, the
heeid nurse will have the entire charge of the
infant. She will also be responsible for the care
of the other children, but the under-nurse or
nursemaid will assist with their dressing, &c.
She will be responsible for the order and manage-
ment of the nursery, the arrangement of meals,
&c. The under-nurse will do all the rough work,
including cleaning, wasliing of dishes, carrying
coals, and work under the direction of the head
nurse. When the nurso is single-handed and
there are several children, she will either require
help from the housemaid in the cleaning of her
nurseries, or the mother must be prepared to
take the cliildren for a certain time each day in
order to give tho nurse some freedom to do a
little washing or cleaning. Bj' this means she
ought to be able to get tlirough much useful
work.
FEEDING
There is unfortunately a growing disinclination
among mothers to nourish their infants as natiu-e
intended. Selfishness is as a rule at the root of
this very unmotherly feeling. Tho mother who
nurses her infant will require to lend a more or
less quiet life for nine months, forgoing many
social engagements, and rather than deny her-
self in this respect a mother will sacrifice the
welfare of her little one by depriving it of its
natural food. Vanity is also often the reason
for objection to nursing. The plea is made that
it " spoils " the figure, whereas, as a matter of
fact, to nurse a baby for the first few weeks of
its life is to materially assist nature in her re-
storing process, and shapeliness in consequence
is regained sooner than in other circumstances.
Nursing is good for the mother as well as for the
child.
There are many instances, of course, when it is
impossible for the mother to niurse her child,
but if it is possible she should look upon it as
her first duty towards the little one to do so.
Tliat the mother's milk is lacking in quantity
or quality is not now accounted any argument
in favour of neglecting altogether the duty of
breast-feeding. In these circumstances a baby
may be brought up partly on its mother's milk
and partly on the bottle. The mother who
finds it exhausting to nurso altogether ci^i, for
instance, feed it herself in the day and give it
tho bottle at night. In this way tho ht'lo one
is not altogether deprived of its natural food.
Time was when " the mixing of milks " was
regarded as most unwise, but that is now past,
and it is universally recognised that baby may
be given the bottle as well as partially breast-fed
with very satisfactory results.
Should there be evidences of consumption or
other disease likely to be hereditary, consult tho
doctor as to the advisabiUty or otherwiflo of
artificially feeding baby.
The bresists must bo carefully tended during
pregnancy, if the mother intends to feed her
baby. See that the corsets do not flatten the
nipples, which should be hardened by bathing
them night and morning for the last couple of
months, and afterwards applying a mixture
cither of lavender water or pure eau de
Cologne.
THE CHILD
477
The infant should be put to the breast directly
after it has been washed, as the first milk will
act as a mild purgative for the Uttle one. During
the first two days of its existence an infant does
not require to be fed more than once every four
hoiirs. Afterwards it must be fed every two
hours with the utmost regularity in the day and
about three or four times in the night for the
first two or three months - after that every
two and a half hours, and then every three hours
until it is weaned.
Great care must be taken to keep to regular
hours for baby's meals. If the child is allowed
to feed at all times and at all hours directly it
utters so much as a cry, not only will it be bad
for the infant, but the mother must needs lead
the hfe of a veritable slave to her baby, never
being able to count on so much as half-an-hoiu^
of freedom, and, what is more, she will be forced
to neglect in a certain meastu-e both her husband
and her home.
A little patience exercised at first in adhering
firmly to a rule will do away with the necessity
for such a state of affairs. Even young babies
will realise the quaUty of firmness in their
mother when once they come into contact with
it. At night-time in particular will a mother
have trouble with the infant whom she has un-
duly pampered in this respect, and the longer
this pampering goes on the more difficult will if
become to cure the bad habits so formed. Very
often consideration for her husband who needs
his rest so much will induce a mother to nurse a
baby whenever he cries at m'ght in order to keep
it quiet. It may be taken that the infant of a
few months old is a reasoning being in so far
that, as soon as he knows crying will ensure the
gratification of his wishes, the more he will resort
to this expedient. In these circumstances it is
better to sleep with the child in another room for
a few nights, and train it in the way it should go
in this respect. With a little patience proper
habits may be formed, although the mother who
has been firm in the training of her httle one
since infancy is not^ likely to be troubled in this
way.
Of course, there are exceptions - delicate
children will require feeding more frequently
than healthy ones, and the doctor's advice will
have to be taken in tliis respect, but here again
regularity should be aimod at.
Weaning should take place when the infant is
nine months old, and in any circumstances the
mother's nursing should not continue beyond
ten raoiiths. Prolonged nvirsing is both bad for
tho mother and bad for the child.
It is better to accomplish the weaning gradu-
ally, beginning by gi\'ing the new food at one or
two meals only at first, gradually substituting it
for the natural nourishment at other meals until
at tho end of a month the mother can leave off
nursing altogether. This gradual weaning is
more than ever impori-ant when it takes place
in the hot summer weather. Whilst nursing,
a mother should take plain nourishing food,
avoiding everything that is rich or highly
seasoned.
Bringing up by Hand. - Wlien it is quite impos-
sible for a mother to nurse her baby, it will be
necessary that the httle one be brought up by
hand. There is the alternative, of course, of
engaging a " wet nurse," but this is not always
advisable, for many reasons. The milk used
should be the special " nursery milk," which is
always sent from the dairies in sealed bottles. It
must be diluted with barley water and sweetened
with a little sugar, and freed from germs by
boiling. This should be done by placing a jug
containing the milk into a saucepan of water
and putting this on to boil. The milk will be
ready when the water has boiled for fifteen
minutes.
The boat-shaped feeding-bottle is the best
kind to use, and infinitely preferable to the
bottle with the long rubber tube. Tlie latter
is unhygienic, because it is so difficult to keep
the tube clean, and any milk left in will turn
Boat-shaped Feeding-Bottle.
sour, diarrhoea being often caused in this way.
It is of the first imjiortanco that feeding-bottles
should be kept thoroughly clean. When baby
has finished his meal, any milk that he has left
should at once bo tlirown away, and the bottle
should be rinsed out, first in cold water and
then in hot water in which a tiny piece of
soda has been placed. It should then be
cleaned out with a special bottle-brush, well
rinsed, and left in a basin of cold water until
required. Two or three bottles should always
be in use, so that there is always one ready
when required.
Exceptional care is required in bringing the
baby up by hand, tho least thing wrong in
the food causing diarrhoea, which often proves
fatal to infants. It is one of the duties of
the monthly nurse before leaving to carefully
instruct the mother and also the nurse in
regard to the feeding and general care of the
infant.
The following " Feeding Cliarts " and Recipes
have been prepared by Mrs. Berntird Mole,
Principal of the Hampstead Nursery College,
and will give an idea (1) of the proportions of
milk and barley water to be given to babies
up to the age of ten months ; (2) the gradual
adding of other foods at nine months to eighteen
months with some useful recipes; and (3) a
suitable diet for babies of eighteen months old
and upwards.
478
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
INFANTS' FEEDING TABLE
Maximum
Age
Milk
Barley water or
boiled water
Total quantity
Time, every
1 month . .
1 oz. 2 drs.
1 oz. 6 drs.
3 oz.
2 hours
2 months . .
2 oz. 4 drs.
2 oz. 4 drs.
5 oz.
2i hours
3 months . .
3} oz.
2 0Z.
5i oz.
^ hours
4 months . .
' 4 oz.
2 oz.
6 oz.
2 J hours
6 months . .
1 5 oz.
2 oz.
7 oz.
3 hours
6 months . .
5 oz.
1 oz. 4 drs.
7 oz.
3 hours
7 months . .
6 oz.
loz.
71 oz.
3 hours
8 months . .
7 oz.
4 drs.
8 oz.
3 hours
9 months. .
8 oz.
S or 9 oz.
Si hours
10 months . .
8 oz.
8 or 9 oz.
3} hours
After 9 months, broth, bread and milk, rusks, Kobinson's patent barley
may be given.
>'OTE. - 1 tea-spoonful equals 1 drachm ; 2 table-spoonfuls equal 1 ounce.
DIET CHART
(9 to 18
At 9 months leave off mid-day bottle and give
broth with bread-crumbs in it, or fine sago,
custard, or lightly -boiled egg (yolk only)
poured over sieved crumbs.
At 10 )tionths leave off breakfast bottle, and give
bread and milk (sieved cnimbs).
At 11 months leave off tea bottle, and give
" Nursery Rusks " soaked in boiling water,
and warm milk poured over.
months)
At 12 months leave off supper bottle and give
Robinson's Patent Barley.
Keep on with 10 p.m. hottle till 12 months,
then give warm drink of milk to take its
place.
At 13 and 18 months give good dinners of
broth and crumbs followed by some
nourishing milk pudding and a drink of
cold water.
DIET CHART
(After
18 months
7.30 A.M.
12.30 P.M.
6 P.M.
Monday . .
Tuesday . .
Wednesday .
Thursday . .
Friday . . .
Saturday . .
Sunday . .
Bread and dripping
Bread and jam
6 oz. warm milk
Fried bread
Bread and marmalade
6 oz. warm milk
Bread and milk
Bread and jam
Fried bread
Bread and marmalade
6 oz. warm milk
Bread and milk
Bread and jam
Porridge
Bread and marmalade
EgKs
Bread and butter
6 oz. warm milk
Minced meat and
gravy, potatoes
Suet pudding
Vegetables and gravy
Milk pudding and
baked apple, ic.
Soup and milkpudding
Fruit
Vegetables and gravy
Fairy pudding
Fish
Milk puddingand fruit
Stew gravj-
Boiled batter
CiT&vy and vegetables
Fruit and milk j>ud-
ding
Robinson's patent
barley
Bread and milk
Robinson's barley
Bread and milk
Robinson's barley
Bread and milk
Robinson's barley
Note.- Tea : bread and butter, rake, or jam, and warm milk.
Lunch : warm milk and biscuit.
SOME NURSERY RECIPES
Receipt (or Fine Sago
2 tea-spoonfuls fine sago. I 1 teacup cold water.
Method. - Simmer all the morning (not less
than twenty minutes), tidd a little brown sugar
and milk.
Mntton, Veal, and Beef Broth
1 lb. of meat. | 1 pint of water.
Method. - Shred meat, add salt, simmer in
double saucepan three to four hours. Another
method for the nursery. Shred meat, add pinch
of salt and water. Stand all the morning.
Warm up to 130№ and serve.
THE CHILD
479
Custard
6 oz. milk. I 1 tea-spoonful sugar.
1 egg. I
Method. - Beat egg, pour on hot milk in which
sugar has been added. Stir till wooden spoon is
coated.
Note. - Must not boil or will curdle.
Bread and Milk
1 slice of bread. I 6 oz. milk.
Method. - Rub the bread through a sieve,
place in cup and pour on boihng milk in which
a little brown sugar has been added.
Note. - After twelve months old, cut bread
with crust into cubes.
Boiled Egg
Method. - Carefully drop egg into boiling water,
let it stand in hot water for eight minutes, and
the yolk and white will be jelly-like consistency.
Pour on to crumbs and serve.
Note. - ^Must not boil or white will harden.
Another method. Boil three minutes and
use yolk only.
Albumen Water
1 white of egg. I i pint of water.
Method. - Stir in slightly-beaten white of egg
into half a pint warm water, add little sugar.
Whey
1 pint milk. 1 1 tea-spoon rennet.
Method.- Heat milk to 100№ F. Stb in the
rennet and allow it to cool (not less than seven
minutes). Stir up w'th fork and strain through
muslin. Heat up again to 70№ F. to get rid of
rennet. Strain before using.
Barley Water
2 table-sp. coarse pearl I 1 pint of water,
barley. I
Method. - ^Wash barley in strainer by pouring
hot water through. Put barley in jug and cover
with a pint of boiling water. Stand all day and
strain oS quantity for use.
Nursery Rusk
Cover rusk with boiling water and let it soak.
Add warm milk and a little brown sugar when
ready for uso.
Diet for Older Children After the child is
over three years old, the diet may be gradually
enlarged until it is able to take simple dishes of
all hinds. The food must always be simple and
well cooked, and never highly seasoned.
The most substantial meal should be in the
middle of the day, when one of the following
dishes might be served : fish either steamed or
stewed or made up in some simple way with
butter sauce, game (if not high), and poultry,
roast, boiled or broiled meat. Salted meats
and spiced salt fish, pork and liver should be
avoided, also rich stews and highly -seasoned
sauces of any kind. There should also be a
liberal supply of vegetables in season.
In winter especially the dinner should com-
mence with a little soup ; in fact, with young
children a good broth or milk soup might quite
well take the place of the meat course once or
twice a week if it is followed by a good nourishing
pudding.
As the pudding is generally the favourite dish
with the little ones, care must be taken to have
it well cooked and hght, and some cooks are
very apt to be careless in this respect. A suet
pudding in some form or other is one of the most
nourishing dishes that can be given - the plain
suet dumpling served with golden syrup or
brown sugar, the dumpling with a few currants
or raisins in it, the suet pudding with fruit
inside, or the jam roly-poly are all excellent
if well cooked. Even the simple milk pudding
requires care in the preparation, because unless
the starchy substance of which it is made is
thoroughly cooked, it will not be wholesome.
Variety must be studied as much as possible ;
if the same dishes are served day after day the
children become tired of them and do not take
sufficient for their proper nourishment.
Fruit in some form should be given every day,
and as some children can take more of this than
others, it is the duty of the mother to watch
what agrees with each child. As a rule fruits
are more easily taken stewed than raw. Stewed
prunes, apples, or figs, baked apples and baked
bananas can vary the winter diet, while in summer
there will be the various fresh fruits in season.
The older children's breakfast should consist
of porridge or some other cereal food with good
milk, followed by eggs or a simple fish dish, or
toast and bacon fat, with cocoa, hot milk, or
milk and coffee to drink. If breakfast is served
very early a glass of milk with a biscuit, oatcake,
or piece of gingerbread might be given in the
middle of the forenoon.
Then for tea - bread and butter \rith syrup or
jam, some plain cake or biscuits, and either
cocoa or warm milk to drink.
The supper taken in the evening must be very
light in character - warm milk with bread and
butter, a well-cooked milk pudding, a dish of
rice, or some milk soup axe all suitable.
THE CHILD'S TOILET
Bath. - Perfect cleanliness is another essential
in the healthy life of the child, as without this
the skin will be unable to discharge its functions.
One cannot use too much water, and the some-
what common fear that more than one bath a
day is weakening is quite wrong ; the error made
is more likely to be oa. the side of too Uttle
washing rather than that of too much.
All children should bo bathed at least once
480
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
daily, and tho habit must be begun from infancy.
Each cliild must bo provided with its own
sponge and flannel or other washing requisites.
For an infant tho tomperaturo of tho water
should bo about 100№ F. for both tho morning and
evening bath, and this may be continued for
the first six months. As it gets a Uttle older
the temperature of tho morning bath may bo
reduced to 80№ or 85№, and after three years old
to 65№ or 70№. With older children tho morning
bath sliould bo given very qmckly with plenty
of friction by rubbing, and they •will also require
a hotter bath in the evening at least twice a
week if it cannot be managed oftener. Or they
may have a warm bath in the evening, and a
quick sponge over with cold or tepid water in
the morning.
A little cliild must always be bathed in a
warm room, and if, when older, he is taken
to a bath-room, care must be taken to guard
against chills.
A bath must never be given directly after a
meal. An hour at least must elapse between the
taking of food and the bath. This is why it is
generally found more convenient to give little
cliildren their supper after their bath, either
sitting at the nursery fire or in bed.
The same would apply to bathing in the sea.
Mothers should see that their children never run
off to bathe directly after a meal. Boys especi-
ally must bo warned, as they are inclined to
jump into tho water at any odd time.
Neither must children be forced to go into
cold water against their will, especially into tho
sea. A bath or bathe under these circumstances
can do no good and often much harm, and there
is generally a gentler way of getting them
ewjcustomed to tho water.
Some children cannot bear cold water, especi-
ally if their circulation is poor or they are
delicate in any way. A mother must use her
own judgment and discretion in this matter, and
both baths and bathing should always be under
her supor\asion or instruction, and be given by
some reliable person.
To Bath an Infant. - The best time for the
morning bath is about 9 or 9.30, and about
one and a half hours after it has had a meal.
By this time the nursery will be thoroughly
warm and there will not bo much danger
of chill. First put in readiness ovorytliing that
is required. Tliero should bo a nice warm
T^irkish bath-towel without fringes and a fine
faCe towel ; tho little garments should be hung
np to warm in front of tho fire, and baby's
basket with all the toilet appliances should bo
at hand. Put a folding-screen round the chair
and fireplewxs so as to shut out all draughts
from door and window, and see that both door
and window are closed for the time being. The
little bath might be put on a stand so as to avoid
unnecessary stooping.
Put in sufficient water to cover the baby's
chest. Care should be taken to put in the
cold before the boiUng water, otherwise if tho
bath is of tin, the foot of it N^all retain tho heat
and baby's skin might bo injured. A largo
apron should be worn when giving tho bath ;
one made of Turkish towolling is tho best.
Castile or other pure soap must bo used, and
nothing of a cheap fancy nature. A soft sponge
or a very soft piece of flannel should bo used for
wasliing. Needless to say, the sponges must be
kept in a very clean and fresh condition.
Wlien the infant is undressed, sponge and soap
tho head first very gently, and being careful
that the soap does not trickle into tho eyes.
Careful attention must be paid to the eyelids,
ears, and nostrils.
Then wash the rest of the body, after which
baby may be lowered gently into the bath.
The left hand and fore-arm must support tho
back and head of the baby while in the bath,
while tho right hand does the sponging ; or ono
of the patent hammock baths might be used -
they have a piece of stout webbing stretched
across the bath from side to side on which the
baby rests, wlxilo both hands of the nurse are
left free. Two or three minutes will bo quite
long enough for the baby to bo in the water;
it should then be lifted into a warm soft towel
fo"r drying.
P"ub gently all over with the towel, using the
fine towel for the face and neck, and then rub
with the hand, as this helps cu-culation. A Uttlo
powder should also bo used to such parts as tho
creases of the thiglis, the armpits, under the
knees and tho throat.
Tho dressing must be performed as expedi-
tiously as possible, and by the time this is finished
the baby will be ready for its meal and a nap.
Clean Habits. - A word might bo said about
the training of the infant in the habit of personal
cleanliness. From infancy the nurse or mother
should make a practice of holding the child over
a vessel every two hours and especially after
sleep. If this is done with regularity the infant
very soon gives warning of its wants, and at
tliree months the napkin ouglit to bo wetted very
rarely during tho day, and at a year old might
bo dispensed with except for night-wear. Of
course there will bo exceptions, and some chil-
dren are more difficult to train than others.
A napkin should bo changed at once when it has
been soiled ; if left on for hours it hinders tho
formation of cleanly habits. Tlie shaped pilch
should be continued for some time after the
napkins have been given up.
Care of the Hair. - During infancy the hair
should bo soaped and washed every day, dried
with a soft towel and brushed with a very soft
brush. When the hair has grown, once or twice
a week will bo sufficient for washing, and care
must be taken that it is thoroughly dry before the
child is put to bed.
Oils and hair- washes are quite unnecessary for
THE CHILD
481
children's hair ; in fact, it will grow better with-
out them, and good and regular brushing with
clean brushes should be relied upon for keeping
it pretty and soft. It is a mistake to let a Uttle
child's hair grow too long, as it just heats the
head unnecessarily. Neither should there be any
tight plaiting or putting up in curls at night
- there is no harm in plaiting it loosely, but the
head must be left perfectly at rest during the
hours of sleep. It is important that each child
should be provided with liis own brush and
comb.
Care of the Mouth and Teeth. - This is very
important, and even the mouth of the tiny
infant must receive attention and be washed
twice a day at least. This may either be done
before or directly after the bath. Twist a piece
of fine lint or gauze round the finger, dip it into
a weak solution of boracic acid and water, and
carefully "nd gently rub the mouth and gums
with this. As soon as the first tooth appears
the use of the tooth brush must be commenced
- a very soft one at first - and this must be
dipped into the boracic acid solution and used
very gently. A good pinch of carbonate of soda
in the water is also a good thing, and it preserves
the teeth against the injurious effects of milk.
Tooth powders and pastes are not necessary for
the first teeth, but a little precipitated chalk or
other simple tooth powder may be used by older
children.
The chronic ill-health and low vitality of some
children can often be traced to their teeth, and
they are never too young to be impressed with
the importance of keeping them clean, not only
for the sake of appearance, but also for the sake
of health. The most important times for clean-
ing are morning and evening, more especially the
latter ; to preserve the teeth and gums it is
particularly essential that the mouth should be
clean before going to bed at night.
It is wise to commence periodical visits to a
good dentist at a very early stage, just to make
sure that all is in order and that the children's
teeth are growing in a proper manner. By pay-
ing attention to the first set of teeth, the second
set have a bettor chance of being somid and
good.
Nails. - The nails of children must not be
neglected. If kept clean and neatly trimmed,
they are likely to remain a pretty shape in after
life. The toe-nails also must not be forgotten,
as when left too long they often cause trouble
in walking.
Sleep.- -Sleep is one of the great essentials
of child life. A very young infant wU sleep
twenty hours out of the twenty -four ; in fact,
attention to its wants will take up all the time it
nee4 be awake, and the more it sleeps the better.
Aft^r a few weeks it begins to require less sleep,
until at between three to sis months it will
likely be awake for six or sev^n hours, whilst in
the/second year twelve hours' sleep at night and
I
two hours in the day wiU generally be suflScient.
A sleep in the middle of the day should be en-
co\iraged as long as possible ; if it is continued
until the sixth or seventh year so much the
better ; it will result in a stronger body and
better nerves. A child who does not get a sleep
in the day often becomes so weary and excited
that it cannot sleep at night.
It is very important, too, that all children
should be in bed at an early hour, and that their
hours should not be upset, except under some
very special circumstances. For the first three
years bed-time should not be later than 6.30 p.1.1.
Children of from three to five should be in bed
by 7 o'clock, and then the time for sitting up
should be increased very slowly until between
the ages of thirteen and fourteen the child is
going to bed between 8.30 and 9 o'clock.
An infant may be allowed to sleep a great deal
out of doors in its pram or bassinette. Be care-
ful that this is placed out of a draught and
sheltered from the sun. The baby must always
be in a lying-down position when sleeping ,
when older and able to sit up, it must on no
account be allowed to sleep in this position or
injury may be caused to the spine and neck.
The baby must be very comfortably wrapped up
and placed on its side. It is a good plan also
to change the side on which it sleeps and not to
lay it repeatedly in the same position.
A child should not be hushed or rocked to
sleep, and an empty india-rubber teat or com-
forter should never be employed to keep it quiet.
Neither should it require some one to sit with it
until it goes to sleep, or be taken up and brought
into a lighted sitting-room because it happens
to waken up and cry. Tliese are all bad habits
which are quite unnecessary, and if once com-
menced are very difficult to break off. It should
not be necessary either to insist upon silence
in the house after the baby has gone to bed ;
the child who has learnt to sleep while talking
and even music is going on in an adjoining
room will soon sleep through any sound, and
not be easily startled.
As the child grows older the question of ac-
customing him to sleep in the dark will also have
to be considered. There will be no difficulty on
this score with healthy normal children who have
been trained from infancy to go to sleep almost
as soon as they are laid in their Uttle cots, but as
the child grows older lois powers of imagination
become an important factor to be reckoned with.
Some children are highly nervous and subject
to night terrors - although patience and firmness
on the part of the mother will help a great deal
towards curing this condition, yet it would be
absolute cruelty to force a child subject to
nervous fears to sleep in the dark. There are
many grown-up people who dread darkness - is
it to be wondered at, therefore, that some chil-
dren manifest the same weakness ? Such fears, it
is true, are often caused by injudicious manage-
2h
482
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ment on the part of parent* and nurses. For
instance, threats such as " I'll ask the bogies to
come and take you," or else stories of naughty
little boys and girls being stolon from home at
night-time, are quite sufficient to fill even the
least nervously-inclined children with fear.
Let a mother see to it, therefore, that her chil-
dren are not frightened in tliis way, and that
their little imaginations are not distorted by
injudicious stories of wicked people, witches and
ghosts, wliich are so often related to them by
well-intentioned but stupid people, who cannot
appreciate the harm they are doing.
All over-excitement of any kind should be
avoided ; the healthier and more childish the
life led by the little ones, the less prone will
they be to over-excitability and nervousness ;
a nervous child requires the greatest care and
management, and it is only the patient and
careful mother who, whilst doing her utmost to
convince her little one that his fears are ground-
less, wiU see that he leads a healthy life in every
way ; who will be able by care and good manage-
ment to counteract a tendency to nervousness,
which will get worse as the child grows older if
no effort is made to check it.
Even an infant may be taught that the night
is to be passed quietly if, when it is necessary
to attend to its wants, everything is done with-
out excitement and with as little light as possible.
Fresh air is the best sedative, and the child
who has been out of doors during the day, who
is well fed and made comfortable in bed, ought
to go off into a quiet and refreshing sleep without
any trouble, unless there is something physically
wrong.
As said before, the covering of the beds must
be warm and light (see p. 475) and regulated
according to the temperatui'e and climate. A
little child must never bo allowed to suffer from
cold, nor lie awake for that reason. In very
cold weather very little children, or children
with poor circulation, should have their beds
warmed with a hot bottle before they are put
into them. The window in the sleeping-room
should always be open. Rather have a fire when
cold than shut the window, as a fire is always a
good ventilator. No gas must be left burning
during the night. If for any reason a light is
required, it is better to have a night-light.
Children are very apt to kick off the bed-
clothes at night, and for this reason flannel
sleeping-suits are better than nightgowns, even
for girls, or tapes may be sewn to the corner of
the top blanket and fastened to the bedstead.
On no account must a child be allowed to sleep
with its head under the clothes.
About 10 o'clock the nurse or mother should
always see that the children are sleeping properly
before she goes to bed, and the little ones ought
to be lifted and their wants attended to until
this is no longer necessary.
Whilst dealing with this subject a word of
warning may well be given to mothers. In
spite of the most careful training, some children
form the habit of wetting their beds at night.
Very often a child afflicted with worms will do
tliis as a result of the irritation that sets in.
Attention must be directed to ridding the child
of the worms before he can bo cured of this
habit. Very often, however, a child will be
liable to this distressing tendency in spite of
every precaution and care and without any
apparent reason or cause. In these circum-
stances it is ntiore often than not that he is
afflicted ^vith some bodily defect. Medical
advice should at once be sought, and punishment
should never be administered for what the child
cannot help. All such cases demand careful
treatment and management.
Fresh Air and Exercise. - The Walk out of
Doors. - If children are to thrive they must be
out in the open air £is much as possible. The
importance of this cannot be too strongly
emphasised. Of course, some judgnnent must be
shown as regards weather and in choosing the
hours for the daily walk. It would be wrong
to send out very young children in snow or rain,
if a very cold wind were blowing, or in very
great heat.
In summer weather even the new-born infant
may be taken out of doors after the first few da3's,
although, of course, in winter more precautions
must be taken, and a time must be chosen when
the sun is shining. The little one might then
be accustomed more gradually to a change of
temperature by wrapping it up and taking it
into a cooler room for a short time.
For the first few walks the tiny infant should
be taken out in its nurse's arms and a ten to
fifteen minutes' airing will be sufficiently long ;
after that the time might be increased gradually.
When the monthly nurse leaves, the baby should
be taken out in a bassinette-perambulator, or
one in which it can lie as comfortably as in its
little cot.
The choice of the first pram is very important.
It must be one on four wheels and well swung, so
that there is no vibration which might injure
the child's spine. It ought also to be fitted with
a mattress and pillow, protected and covered in
the same way as the bed (see p. 470). There
should also bo a hood or canopy, to protect from
the sun or inclemencies of weather. The baby
must be comfortably placed in his pram, a
warm bottle being put in if the weather is cold,
and a light and warm covering. The perambu-
lator must bo wheeled very steadily, and on no
account must it be jolted down steps, even one
or two, while the baby is in it. This bassinette-
perambulator must bo used until the baby has
gained sufficient strength to sit up without
causing any strain on the spine. The same pram
can then be adapted accordingly. A mail-cart
should not be used until the child is between a
year and eighteen months old, and care must
THE CHILD
483
always be taken that the little legs do not
dangle, and also that they are well protected
from the cold.
When a child is being wheeled out of doors it
must always be protected from the hot rays of
the sunshine, from cold wind, or from snow or
rain.
As soon as the child is steady on its legs it
should be encouraged to walk a little out of
doors, as this helps to keep up the circulation -
just a little to begin with and increasing the
distance very gradually. The mail-cart must not
be discarded too early, because although it is
all-important that children should be out of
doors, it is very wrong to drag them along when
the httle legs and bodies are tired. Of course,
when there is a garden or field into which the
little ones can be tiu-ned to play and run about
in fine weather, the life out of doors is very much
simplified - it is the town-bred child who is to be
pitied in this respect.
Other Exercises. - The exercise that an infant
can take is very limited, but still it has its little
movements, and these should not be checked
but rather encouraged, as they help to develop
its muscles. When the child is a little older it
should be put on the floor on a rug and allowed
to kick and roll about, and, later on, to crawl.
Care must always be taken that it is well pro-
tected and not hampered with its clothing. The
habit of tossing a baby up and down is a very
bad one ; it should not be excited, and there is
no occasion to hold it and nurse it all its waking
horn's. Neither should it be hurried into walking
- in fact, there is no occasion to teach walking, as
the baby wiU learn by itself as soon as the little
legs are strong enough and able to bear the
weight of the body. The use of the play-pen is
excellent for this, as the baby will soon drag
itself up the sides and begin cautiously to move
round. Then later on a baby-walker might be
used (see illustration); the baby stands inside
Baby-Walker.
this and pushes it along. It is always better to
let them learn to walk gradually rather than to
press them forward, as some children are natur-
ally more backward than others in this respect.
At about four or five years old some simple
movements in calisthenics or Swedish gymnastics
may be started, but th- y must not be continued
for too long. As soon as possible, too, the child
should be taught to hold itself erect and to
move gracefully. Dancing is very valuable in
this respect, as it develops grace and gives light-
ness of movement.
Swimming is another excellent exercise for
young children, if done in moderation and the
child is strong enough. Then later on the
child should be encouraged to take part in out-
door games, the amount to be always carefully
regulated by the mother, as the tendency in
many cases, especially with girls, is to go beyond
their strength.
CHILDREN'S AILMENTS
Symptoms of Illness. - It should be taken as a
general rule that the less medicine given in the
nursery the better it will be for the httle ones.
A warm bath and a suitable aperient form the
best panacea for most childish disorders. For
the more serious ailments, or when in doubt in
regard to treatment of ordinary disorders, a
doctor should be consulted. Never on any
account administer drugs without medical ad-
vice. The health of many a child has been
ruined by the administration of sleeping draughts
by unscrupulous nurses.
A great deal of the anxiety connected with the
rearing of children lies in the difficulty some-
times experienced in discriminating between
the various symptoms of illness which appear.
When a child appears to be aihng it may happen
that the indisposition is only a sUght and tem-
porary one ; on the other hand, the symptoms
might be the premonition of sickening for bron-
chitis, measles, or some other illness to wloich
children are more or less hable. Every mother
should keep a chnical thermometer in order that
she may be able to take the child's temperature
and so recognise feverishness when it is present.
In taking the temperature of children the ther-
mometer should be placed not in the mouth,
but either in the armpit or groin ; it should be
allowed to remain there ten minutes, and upon
taking it away the temperature will be found
to be accurately noted. The normal temperature
is 98-4№ ; in fever it will rise to 100№ and over.
When a child is feverish the safest plan is to
at once put it to bed, seeing that it is kept
warm to obviate the risk of cliill, which might
be caught if it is exposed to cold or draught
or allowed out in the open air in its feverish
condition, often with fatal results.
In infantine disorders a great deal is often
indicated by the natm-e of an infant's cry - the
low, wailing cry indicating cold is quite distinct
from the sharp impatient cry of hunger and the
moaning of pain, whilst a half -smothered, hoarse
cry is often indicative of bronchitis or other
chest troubles. An infant's breathing is often
a guide to its condition ; for instance, hurried
breathing followed by wheezing denotes bron-
chitis, then there is the sharp fighting for breath
484
THE WOMAlf^'S BOOK
and crowing sound eissociated with crowing
croup.
There are many other signs which indicate
a child's condition of health, too many to be
entered upon fully in a book of this kind.
Suffice it to say that, in addition to tho symptoms
mentioned, when a child's little face has the flush
of fever, when it has tho pinched and wan look of
pain, when its eyes become either vacant or wild
in their expression, it may be taken that it is
suffering from disorder of some kind which might
turn out to be serious if neglected, and the ut-
most precautions should therefore be observed,
and medical advice sought in case of need or
doubt.
Teething. - The first teeth should begin to
appear at six months, the two front teeth or
incisors of the lower jaw coming first, the upper
incisors making their appearance in another
month, and the other teeth by degrees until the
end of the second year. Some children, how-
ever, are very backward in teething. Most
healthy infants cut their teeth without much
trouble, but often the gums become very swollen
and sensitive, and the infant is feverish and fret-
ful. Rubbing the gums with tlio fingers has a
soothing effect, also the child may be given an
india-rubber ring to bite, but care must be taken
to keep this clean. At night-time a warm bath
will often give reUef. The feverishness which is
usually present at the time of teething makes a
baby very susceptible to chill, and this is what
principally causes the many infantine ailments,
such as diarrhoea, &c., generally associated with
the teething period. At this time, therefore,
additional precaution against the danger of
catching cold must be taken. During teething
a quantity of saliva dribbles from tho child's
mouth. This should not be allowed to go
through the clothing or bronchitis may result.
Change the bib frequently - a small piece of
mackintosh placed underneath it will keep the
clothing dry.
DiarrhGea. - This may usually be ascribed to
some fault in tho diet and occurs frequently at
the teething period. If the infant is being
brought up by hand, add a dessert-spoonful of
lime-water to its bottle ; if it is being nursed
by tho mother, give dill-water and lime-water
mixed - a teiv-spoonful of each.
Constipation should never be neglected, as it
may load to convulsions and other ills. This
complaint is most prevalent with infants
brought up by hand. Care must be taken that
the proper proportion of barley water is in the
bottle. Give baby a drink of water first thing
in the morning. Massage of tho abdomen will
do good. An enema may bo given, but only
very occa-sionally. The administration of pur-
gatives is inadvisable as a rule, although a
tea-spoonful of salad oil may sometimes be
given. The child should be trained early in the
forming of regular habits.
Babies of a year old and upwards may be
given with advantage the insides of well-cooked
fruit, such as apples, bananas, &c.
Thrush is an affection of the mouth due to the
formation of a parasitic yeast which forms white
patches on tlio gums, cheeks, and throat. The
condition is most common in hand-fed infants,
being often caused by dirty bottles, dummy
teats, and general bad management. The treat-
ment should bo an improvement in the general
management of the baby, a httle honey and
borax or some glycerine of boric acid should
be applied to the white patches by means of a
camel's-hair brush or a little cotton wool.
Convulsions. - These are due to some irrita-
tion in tho nervous system, often occurring during
teething - and may be caused by indigestible
food, constipation, worms, or even a pin in the
clothing. The treatment is to detect and, if
possible, remove the cause. The child should
at once be stripped and placed in a hot bath of
about 100№ F., the hot water reaching the nape
of the neck. An enema should bo given next,
more especially in the case of worms, and medical
aid should be obtained. If the convulsions are
caused by teething, the gums may be lanced
with advantage. The approach of convulsions
may generally be anticipated when the infant
grinds its teeth in sleep and is subject to severe
facial twitchings.
Crowing or Spasmodic Croup. - This is due to a
spasm in the larynx of nervous origin, and is
most common among rickety children at teething
time. A loud crowing sound is indicative of
the attack, which is most distressing while it
lasts and usually occurs at night. The ch'ld
fights for breath, its fingers are clenched, its face
livid. A flannel or sponge wrung out in hot
water and applied to tho throat will often give
reUef. Make the child sit up and give half to
a tea-spoonful of ipecacuanha wine to induce
vomiting, giving another doso after ten minutes
if this does not act. Medical advice should be
obtained, and great care taken in regard to
general management and diet.
Chills should never bo neglected, as otherwise
bronchitis, pneumonia, or pleurisy may result.
When a child is seen to have a serious chill put
him straight to bed, giving him a warm drink
and an aperient, if needs bo. Take his tempera-
ture, and if it is above normal for twelve hours it
will be advisable to call in medical aid.
Little Ulcers. - When those appear on the
tongue or lips give half a tea-spoonful flower of
sulphur in a little treacle and apply glycerine
and borax.
Weak Legs and Ankles. - These are too often
the result of forcing a child to walk more than
is good for it at too early an age ; the little legs
become " bandy " and scarcely seem to support
the body. See that the child is not too much on
his feet, and bathe the legs and ankles regularly
in salt and water.
THE CHILD
485
Ringworm. - Shave off the hair round tlie
siffected part and paint with iodine. Apply a
coating of iodine daily until the ring-worm dis-
appears. If the case is a bad one, it should be
under medical treatment.
Worms. - Children are often affected with
these ; the best cure is to give an enema of two
pints warm water with two table-spoonfuls
common salt added to it - and a dose of castor-
oil after. If very persistent, feed the child on
rice pudding for a day or two.
Sleep - Walking, or Sonmambulism. - Sleep-
walking generally occiu-s in highly -strung school
children who are over-worked. The treatment
should be in medical hands, and meanwhile
the windows and doors must be guarded and the
child not left to sleep in a room by himself.
Prolapse or descent of the lower bowel so that
it appears externally sometimes occurs with
children. The cause is prolonged straining at
stool from constipation, or other source of bowel
irritation. The prolapsed bowel should be at
once washed and then gently squeezed back bj'
grasping it with a clean piece of old Unen smeared
with vasehne or olive oil. After the replacement
of the bowel has been accompUshed, a diaper
should be folded and passed between the legs ;
this should then be secured in front and beliind
to a waist-belt. In future the child should pass
its motions lying down, all strong aperients must
be avoided, and any prolapse corrected directly
after the motion.
TRAINING AND EDUCATION
Early Training. - With the mother first of all
must rest the responsibility of the early training
of her little ones. It is during the first seven
years of a child's Hfe that the most lasting im-
pression is made on the little mind, and that the
greatest influence is brought to bear for evil or
for good. Great educational authorities assert
that these first years of childhood are of the
utmost importance in education, both mentally
and morally, and if they are wisely ordained
the good influence of early training and teaching
will manifest itself throughout life ; the adverse
influence of bad training having equally lasting
effects.
The most valuable training for a child, there-
fore, is that which begins at his mother's knees.
Let every mother bear this in mind, let her
remember that tho shaping of her child's char-
acter rests in the main with her, and let her not
spare herself in seeing that her responsibility
in tliis respect is faithfully and conscientiously
discharged.
A child should be made to learn early the
lessons of obedience and self-control. This re-
quires the utmost patience on the part of the
mother. She must make it quite clear from the
first that when she eTpresses a wish it must
be obeyed, and never waver from lier attitude
of gentle firimiess. A child very soon learns if
its parent's word is law, or if he can make her
alter her mind by means of a httle coaxing.
It ia very hard at times for a mother to resist
the pretty childish graces which are often put
forward as an inducement for her to waver from
some precept or excuse some fault, but once
she gives way to such blandishments, she may-
give up all idea of ever having her children under
perfect control. The knowledge that when
mother says a thing she means it does more than
anything else to win the respect and confidence
of the Uttle ones. For this reason all promises
must be religiously kept and in the same way all
threats of punishment fulfilled. Broken promises
and empty threats are equally harmful. The
first beget in the children a lack of confidence as
well as a sense of injustice, wliilst the second
cannot possibly have any effect upon the child
who knows perfectly well that they will not be
carried out.
Parents should be careful to set a good example
to their children upon all occasions, both in their
powers of self-control and their courtesy of
demeanour towards each other. Never give way
to temper before a child nor enter into quarrel-
hng or argvunent of any kind. It must be re-
membered that in Httle ones the imitative
faculties are developed to an almost abnormal
extent, and that a child's character will receive
lasting irjpressions from those with whom he
comes into contact in early childhood. Let an
effort be made, therefore, that he shall never
learn anything but good from his surroundings.
A mother should not allow her cliildren to be
too much in the company of servants ; and,
what is very important, she should be particular
to choose a niu'se who speaks the King's English,
correctly, as a bad accent or Cocknej-ism is very
soon acquired by the little ones, and exceedingly
difficult to cure.
The children should be as much as possible
with people of refinement. During the years
which intervene between babyhood and the age
when lessons may begin, it a good plan to engage
a lady to be witli the little ones for a few hours
daily, taking them for then- walks, and making
their deportment and manners her special care.
There are very many ladies having home ties
which prevent them from taking any resident
position who would be only too pleased to obtain
a post of the kind. For the mother who has a
number of social duties which preclude her from
spending as much time with her children as she
would wish, such a plan has much in its favour.
In most families the children join their parents
at luncheon, this being the dinner-hour for the
little ones. This is a verj' good custom, as it
enables them to acquire the manners and de-
portment to be observed at table. A mother
should begin early to train her child in this direc-
tion. Bad manners should always be punished
by banishment from the dining-room, and a soli-
486
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
tary meal in tlie nursery. Properly trained
children can be allowed to sit at the luncheon
table when friends are present without any
qualms of anxiety being felt by the parents as
to how they will behave, whilst ill-mannered
children will be a source not only of shame to
the parents, but annoyance to their guests.
It is not good for children to be banished
altogether to the nursery, but, on the other hand,
it is very bad for them to be too much with
grown-up people. Nowadays it seems to be
the feisliion for mothers to take their children
about with them everywhere. Dressed like little
fashion plates, they are taken to pay calls, to
At Homes, to luncheons and dinners at restaur-
ant.s - they are, in fact, treated as regular little
men and women of the world and encouraged
to show off upon all occasions. The little girls
might be miniature ladies of fasMon by the airs
and graces they are trained to assume. To
every right-feeling mother there can be no more
sorry spectacle than that presented by an over-
dressed precocious child lajnng herself out for
admiration and attention and conducting her-
self with all the savoir faire of a woman of thirty.
The ill-advised mother who is responsible for
this is guilty of little less than cruelty to her
child, whom she has robbed of the best joys of
cliildhood by turning her into a little woman
before her time.
Grown-up people should also be very careful
in regard to their conversation before children.
Many things heard from the elders are stored
up in the small memories, and are apt to come
out upon the most awkward occasions. Never
indulge in scandal or gossip of any kind before
a child. Many parents err most flagrantly in
this respect, heedlesa of the fact that by so doing
they are sowing the seeds of unkindness and ill-
nature in the hearts and minds of the little ones.
The simpler the life led by the children the
happier they will be. Simple meals, regular
hours, and plenty of healthful exercise should be
the keynote of the regime of both nursery and
school-room. How pleasant it is to see the
enjoyment manifested by children so brought
up at the most simple treats and pleasures.
They are real children in every sense of the
^ word, and in later life they will have none but
\ happy recollections of a childhood passed in this
I way.
' Pocket- Money. - A too liberal allowance of
pocket-money should never be made. There
is nothing more conducive to extravagance in
Ipter years than an unlimited supply of pocket-
money during childhood. Tlie exact sum given
mtst of course depend upon circumstances.
For children of from seven to ten years of age
2d. to 3d. per week represents a fairly good
average. At a boarding-school the allowance
of pocket-money should depend upon the pre-
vailing r6gime. A parent should make a point
of obtaining enlightenment in regard to this from
the head master or mistress, regulating the allow-
ance accordingly. Boys or girls at school sliould
neither have more nor less pocket-money than
that received by their companions.
Punishments. - The injudicious administration
of punishments has served to spoil the character
of many an otherwise well-disposed child, often
tiirning a girl or boy of a really affectionate and
phable disposition into a hardened little rebel.
How few parents are there who know how to
punish judiciously and wisely, and, what is of
more importance, to give a punishment in pro-
portion to the offence committed.
The precept that a child is more easily led
than driven should always be well borne in mind.
The parents' rule should, therefore, be a gentle
though a firm one, and the child must be brought
to reaUse the benefits of not transgressing in any
way against that rule, together with the penalty
attendant upon transgression when it occurs.
A child must always reaUse why he is being
ptmished, and be able to appreciate the justice
of the punishment. If he is easily made to
understand the penalties attending certain acts,
he will be more likely to avoid them.
Take, for instance, the tiny toddler of two
years whose powers of inquisitiveness are such
that he develops an uncontrollable desire to
touch and handle everything with which he
comes in contact. Many distressing accidents
have occurred through the mother failing to
teach him that when he touches a certain for-
bidden object there is always a penalty attached
to his disobedience. For instance, there is a
jug of hot water placed within the reach of
master baby. He shows an inclination oo
handle it. The wise mother will not at once
put it out of his reach, but will say warningly,
" Don't touch that - ^very hot - baby will burn
himself," carefully watching him to see that he
comes to no harm. Baby probably makes up
his mind to disobey, but he will touch it tenta-
tively, with the result that he does not burn his
little fingers as he would have done without his
mother's warning, but at the same time experi-
ences a very disagreeable sensation, and so
realises the result of disobedience and will not
offend again.
A child should not bo indiscriminately slapped
for every little fault. Many parents look upon
the most ordinary childish behaviour as naughti-
ness, sternly repressing any tendency to high
spirits. The constant habit of boxing a boy's
ears, or slapping and shaking a little girl upon
the least provocation is most reprehensible.
It tends to foster a sense of injustice in the
minds of the little ones, and will serve to lay the
foundation of a stubborn and dogged disposition.
There is nothing more harmful to the childish
mind than that it should be labouring inces-
santly under a sense of wrong. Children will
rebel against all those by whom they think
they are being treated with injustice, whereas
THE CHILD
487
with judicious management they can be as often
as not most easily led. This explains the
fact that some governesses and tutors have
succeeded where others have failed. The former
have mastered the art of the proper management
of children through not only being just but
through being able to look at things from a
child's point of view ; also being able to dis-
criminate between big and little faults, making
their charges realise the justice of punishment
when deserved. There has been much ai-gument
for and against corporal punishment in the
bringing up of cliildren, but it maj'^ be safely said
the more it can be avoided the better. It is true
that in case of a baby who is too young to under-
stand reasoning, and who, for instance, shows a
tendency to make his mouth the receptacle for
buttons, pennies, or anything else he can find,
one and only one sharp tap will often be effective
in deterring the child from repeating the attempt,
though even in these circumstances prevention
is better than cure, and the mother would do
well to keep all these kinds of things out of the
child's reach.
With the older children, however, the maxim
" Spare the rod and spoil the child " should be
taken in its moral rather than in its literal sense.
No fault should ever be allowed to go unchecked.
It is worse than useless to punish a child for a
fault on one day and allow it to go unreproved
the next. In very special circumstances a
whipping may be necessary, but never give it
unless after due deliberation you have come to
the conclusion that other methods of punishment
will fail. Never punish a cliild in a moment of
anger at one of his offences. There is no more
unedifying sight than that of a parent who has
completely lost her self-control administering
punishment to a child, a punishment which
under the circumstances is likely to be out of
all proportion to the offence. Give the anger
time to cool down so that you will be able to see
the fault in its normal proportions, then summon
the little offender, and after reasoning gently
with him and showing him the error of his ways
and explaining to him why punishment has to
be given, pass sentence. It may be said that
constant whipping has tho effect of spoiling
and hardening many a little nature. A child
can be punished in many other ways. Being
obliged to stay at home while the others go
out with mother, being debarred from some
favourite game, or being sent to bed an hour
earlier than usual, all are punishments which
tell mth children. Never punish a child by its
fears. To lock up a nervous child in a dark room,
for instance, is as cruel as it is inadvisable ; such
an action may be the cause of much harm and
actual illness to the child.
Mothers should always make a rule of
giving punishment themselves to their chil-
dren. Never allow a nursp or other servant to
slap a cliild. The roughness of some nurses
when out with their little charges has often
caused comment on the part of onlookers, and
ladies, total strangers, have been known to
remonstrate with them on their rough usage
of the children in their charge. Such a state of
things would not exist if the mother made it
clear upon engaging a nurse that impromptu
punishments such as slapping and shaking were
altogether forbidden. At the same time the
mother must carefully investigate every cause
for complaint and be careful to uphold nurse in
maintaining disciphne, never neglecting to mete
out punishment when deserved.
For the older children who are in charge of a
governess the same rule miost apply in regard to
the punishment of all the more serious trans-
gressions.
Just as delinquencies on the part of small
offenders must be met with prompt punishment,
so must any special little acts of good conduct
have their reward. A word of encouragement
here and there is of the utmost value in helping
a child to be good. Let not this encoixragement
be withheld, and be ready to reward the Uttle ones
for any special pains taken in overcoming some
fault, or performing some - to them - difficult
task. Discretion must also govern the form
which the reward must take. Parents are too
apt to give money or sweets indiscriminately on
these occasions, encouraging involuntarily a
love of extravagance and even greediness in
their children. Gifts of the kind now and then
will do no harm, but do not let the rewards
always take this form. Such treats as a walk or
a picnic in the country, permission to invite some
little friends to tea will be appreciated by
children who are brought up in a becomingly
simple manner, and who will hail with delight
any little departure from the ordinary routine.
CHILDREN'S LITERATURE
1. Why do we wish our Children to Read ? - This
will depend largely upon our own attitude to
literature. If, next to a hving soul, a book is to
us the most powerful influence in Ufe, if we have
realised it to be " the precious life-blood of a
master spirit," then at least one reason is not far
to seek. It is that books may become to them
what they have been to us in maturer years -
one of the most potent influences in life. Life,
we have to remember, is larger than Uterature,
and if man's business here is " to know for the
sake of living, not to live for the sake of knowing,"
then surely reading, which has been called "a
knowledge of all knowledges," has a large claim
upon his attention.
But this conscious preparation for the future
is second in importance to the present happiness
of the child. That a child should be happy, and
that it should find a large part of its happiness
in its interests, cannot be disputed.
When one thinks of the intense present
488
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
interest a child can find in literature, and of
the powerful influence good books can have in
after life, one is impelled to ask might not more
be done at home to cultivate a taste for a type of
literature much neglected by the present genera-
tion T
Is it not a mistake that as soon as a child
begins to read himself he is little read to
either at school or at home ? The ordinsury
reading lesson of a child of eight is in no way
calculated to arouse liis intellect, or to excite
his imagination, or in any way to whet the
literary appetite. How then is tliis to be done ?
Either we must continue to read aloud to our
children, or we must put within their reach
literature in so simple a form that they can read
it themselves.
2. What do we wish them to Read ? - It will be
interesting to form a child's ideal Ubrary chrono-
logically, the chronology of course having refer-
ence not to the publication of the volumes,
but to the age of the little readers.
The library will consist chiefly of nonsense,
narrative and morals. Yes, morals, for children
exult in them. The sense of moral distinction
is keen. No more pregnant words exist for him
than good and bad, cruel and kind, fair and mean,
true and false. Therefore, morals must be re-
garded as a requirement in children's literature.
We might begin our library by placing ten
books on the lowest shelf of our imaginary book-
case, suitable for children between the ages of
three and seven. The first volume shovild be
a good collection of Nursery Rhymes liberally
illustrated with story-telling pictures. The order
in which we arrange the next six books does not
matter. Not one of them is a continuous story,
and portions from each may be read at pleasure.
But it were wisdom to read these volumes from
beginning to end before adding further to the
library. Three are in prose - a selection from
" .lEsop's Fables " ; a collection of Fairy Tales ;
" Tommy Smith's Animals.^' Three are in
verse - " The Nonsense Songs and Stories of
Edward Lear " ; " The Poems of Jane and Ann
Taylor " ; " Struelpeter."
The interest and value of " .^Esop's Fables,"
wisely selected, cannot be commended too highly,
and one would wish the dissemination of the
truths they contain to be broadcast. The
volume of " Fairy Tales " should contain the
prime favourites of tlio nursery, and be written
as you would tell the tales to a child on your
knee. "In Fairyland," by Louey Chisholm, is a
fevourite collection. " Tommy Smith's Animals"
ib not universally known, but it ought to be. It
seldom fails to arouse interest and evoke en-
thusiasm. The writer is Edmund Selous.
The immortal " Struelpeter," consisting of
stories first told by a child-loving doctor to his
little patients, is well known.
Less well known are " The Nonsense Songs
and Stories of Edward Lear." It is a true
work of imagination. All cliildi-en may not
but many will revel in these tales.
" The Original Poems of Jane and Ann
Taylor," edited by E. V. Lucas, is a treasure-
house.
Seven books now occupy our lowest shelf.
There is still room for three. The two books
which might be placed next on the shelf are
" AUce in Wonderland " and " The Water
Babies," abridged by Amy Steedman. These
are the first continuous tales that our imaginary
child vnll hear. Of " AUce in Wonderland " no-
thing need be said. That it is a prime favourite
with Uttle children admits of no question.
Now to read aloud " Water Babies " in the
original to a six-year-old is an exhausting
process. There axe words for which simple
synonyms must be found and paragraph upon
paragraph which must be omitted. The in-
genuity of the reader and the patience of the
little listener are alike taxed. An abridgment
such as the above may be read more easily than
any other book on the same shelf, and there are
few books that will give such joy.
Only one vacant space is now left. Surely
there is no doubt that before the child is seven
years old we want him to know much of the life
of Jesus and many of the stories that He told.
A suitable book for tliis purpose has been a long-
felt want, but at last there appeared " A Little
Cliild's Life of Jesus," by Amy Steedman, and
for it countless mothers must be thankful.
The above mention of an abridged " Water
Babies " opens the question of the redaction of
the classics generally. One hears it asked, " If
a child reads tales re-told, will he read them lat<^r
in the original ? " One can only hazard a guess
as to the consequence of early familiarity, but
it may be pretty generally expected (1) that
those who in any case would have read the
originals will still do so ; (2) that a number of
those who would not have done so now will, as
a result of having had their appetites whoLted by
a foretaste of what the originals have to offer ;
(3) that those who will not would not have done
so in any case, and that for them it is surely
better to have read the stories in simple form
than never to have heard them at all.
One may, therefore, believe in the abridged
classic, carefully selected and reverently re-
told (1) because there is more opportunity of
reading to children before they reach eleven
years of age than later, and there does not seem
without these redactions a library of literature
sufficient to satisfy the cravings of little boys
and girls ; (2) because when children themselves
begin to read, it is almost impossible to find bookfi
they can read with ease, and we do not want
Uterature to be in any sense a reading lesson.
Although the above book-shelf is designed for
children between the ages of three and seven,
it is not meant that at seven the little library
is to be left behind, but its volumes will represent
THE CHILD
489
old friendships. There axe many children who
would rest content with a shorter catalogue,
and others who would cry that it might be
lengthened, but few boys or girls of six would
be mentally overfed or starved with a book-shelf
equipped according to the above suggestions.
The higher shelves of the imaginary book -case
we shall suppose to be for boys and girls from
seven to eleven years of age. There might be
placed the " Told to the Children Series," of
which the first four volumes in the following
complete list are included among the books
recommended for younger children. This Series,
although enjoyed by many older readers, is
primarily designed for children under eleven.
To guide choice the volumes have been tabulated
according to their simplicity of subject-matter
and manner of telling, and variety has been
studiod for the sake of any who should read the
Series consecutively.
Nursery Rhymes.
.lEsop's Fables.
Nursery Tales.
The Water Babies.
Stories from Grimm.
Tauglewood Tales.
Simple Susan.
Kobin Hood.
Robinson Crusoe.
Pilgrim's Progress.
Arabian Nights.
King Arthur's Knights.
Uncle Tom's Cabin.
Stories from Hans Andersen.
Old Testament Stories.
The Heroes.
Gulliver's Travels.
Guy of Warwick.
The Rose and the Ring.
The Faerie Queen.
Stories of Roland.
Stories from Chaucer.
Stories from the Ballads.
Stories of William Tell.
Stories from Shakespeare.
Stories of Siegfried.
Stories from Wagner.
Little Plays.
The Iliad.
The Odyssey.
Stories of Three Saints.
Stories of Beowulf.
Celtic Tales.
Don Quixote.
Undine.
More Tales from Shake-
speare.
Stories from Dante.
The omitted volume " Stories from the Life of
Christ " might be read after " Jesus, the Car-
penter of Nazareth," by Robert Bird.
The " Children's Heroes Series," edited by
John Lang, is also to be warmly recommended,
and the " Shown to the Cliildren Series " is
notable alike for letterpress and illustration.
A Uttle volume, "Ruskin for Boys and Girls,"
by Mary Macgregor, is so captivating as to
arouse interest in the series to which it belongs.
" Grandmother's Favourites," edited by Amy
Steedman, and " Old-Fashioned Tales " and
" Forgotten Tales of Long Ago," edited by E. V.
Lucas, are what their titles indicate and are all
char/ning.
Oth(>r volumes I have every confidence in
recommending are, " Tlie King of the Golden
River," by Ruskin ; " The Gold Thread," by
Norman Maclood ; " The Princess and the
Goblin," " The Princess and Cur die," and " At
the Back of the North Wind," by George Mac-
donald, and " Black Beauty " by Anna Sewell ;
" In God's Garden," " Knights of Art," and
" Legends of Italy," by Amy Steedman, and
Jacob's " Englisli Fairy Tales." A modern
writer of Fairy Tales who might be introduced
to those to whom she is unknown is Mary de
Morgan. Her volumes, " The Necklace of
Princess Fiorimonde " and " On a Pin-Cushion "
deserve to be far more widely known than
they are.
All histories by H. E. Marshall should find a
place on these shelves. Boys and girls ahke
read them as they read story-books. Room
must also be found for the deUghtful Jungle
Books of Rudyard Kiphng. The " Laughter
of Peterkin," by Fiona IMacleod, will fascinate
the imaginative child. A place must also be
reserved for those delightful Animal Stories by
Ernest Thompson Seton and by William Long.
A good anthology should find a place on every
booksheK. The children's favourite is " The
Golden Staircase " by Louey Chishohn, which is
also published in four parts as " Poetry for the
Fo\ir, Five and Six-Year-Old," &c. Other
excellent collections are " A Treasury' of Veree,"
by M. Edgar, and "A Book of Verses," by
E. V. Lucas.
3. How do we wish our Children to Read? - (1)
We must insist that the child thinks as he reads.
This is more important than to teach him
thoughts. (2) Every book that is worth reading
once is worth reading twice, and this habit can
be formed in the child while he is stiU being read
to. (3) As the child cannot omit judiciously he
must read his books word for word. (4) He
m\ist read with his whole attention. In no way
should he regard a book as a toy. (5) And,
lastly, expressions of appreciation should be
encouraged. He should be urged to give a
book a fair trial. If it does not appeal to him
let Mm put it aside, but never let his attitude
be that the book is not a good one. A gi-eat
deal can be done while the child is little to in-
fluence his attitude towards books by paj^ng
attention to how he reads.
Education. - A child develops early liis powers
of observation ; he begins to take an interest in
his surroundings and to inquire into the why and
wherefore of things, and it is at this time his
real education begins.
Parents very often show a remarkable lack of
foresight by endeavouring to check the natural
bent for inquiry taken by the little people,
treating their questions as troublesome and a
nuisance, and not even attempting to answer
the most simple inquiry. This is a great mis-
take. It must be remembered that facts of
which we seldom think, because they are so
familiar to us that their existence is accepted
as a matter of course, are entirely new to the
child whose observant faculties are beginning to
develop, and the questions asked are usually the
result of a real desire for knowledge. The in-
cessant " wliy " of children is apt to become
tiresome, but a mother should never lose patience.
It would be a clever woman indeed who could
answer all the questions put to her by a child.
490
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
She would have to be a veritable walking en-
cyclopaedia to do so ; but she Bhould do her best
to answer them as far as is in her power. If
she is not quite sure of the right answer
to give, she should not take the course adopted
by some mothers of making up a reply to
keep the child quiet. Instead she should
say, " I couldn't answer that, dear, just now,
but I shall find out for you by and by,"
never failing to keep her promise in this
respect. A good encyclopaedia and a refer-
ence book are almost indispensable on the
family book-shelf; without them many of the
little one's questions will have to go unanswered.
There are some questions asked by claildren, it is
true, to which it is not at all feasible that an
answer should be given. Again, in these circum-
stances do not tell the child untruths, or get
cross and impatient with him, but tell him
gently that you cannot give him the answer
now as he is too little to understand. To
judiciously gratify the natural bent of a child
for inquiry and cultivate his powers of obser-
vation is to give him the best teaching he
can have during his early years. A child
should never be put to book learning too
soon. Reading and writing can be taught well
enough when he is in his sixth or seventh year,
and even then the lessons must be gradual and
such as will not keep him long at his desk.
Never force children to learn lessons too early.
Very sharp children especially will stand in
danger of having their brains overtaxed if they
are too much pushed forward in this respect.
Let the child be out as much as possible in the
open air, enjoying healthy exercise, building up
strength for his little body. All this time he
will be learning - learning to take note of all that
goes on around him, and this is all the education
that matters in very early childhood.
Let the mother who is her child's teacher set
to work in a manner that will make teaching
seem to him as play. It may indeed be play,
but instructive play for all that, and to be able
to teach in this way a mother will need to ac-
quire not a httle knowledge herself. Educational
authorities have now recognised the value of
nature study in the instruction of the j'cjung.
What useful lessons can be given in long country
walks by a mother who can tell her child tlic-
history of the things he sees, showing him the
difference between the various kinds of leaves
and flowers, telling him all about the different
trees, the birds, the various little dwellers in the
ponds and in the fields. What moral tales can
be pointed out also - what better object lesson
can there be than in the industry and providence
of a little colony of ants or of a hive of bees ? -
what better foundation to education can a child
have than a habit of being able to take note of
all these things and understand them ? Such a
training will be to him of more value than all the
spelling lessons and multiplication tables labori-
ously learned and repeated with mechanical
precision. Try to cultivate a child's reasoning
powers before you tax his little memory. In
this way the best results will be achieved.
When the time comes for the child to set to
work in earnest to learn to read and wi'ite,
the same principle of making work as much
like play as possible should bc' observed. Such
methods are embodied in the best kindergarten
system, notably the Froebel System. A mother
may often find it advisable to ssnd the little
ones to a kindergarten school for an hour or two
every day, or else to engage a governess well
versed in the Froebel method if she is not free
to do the teacliing herself. If she does elect
to teach herself and she is acquainted with this
method, so much the better. If not, she may
easily obtain instruction at one of the Froebel
institutes, but generally her own method will
be as effective as any other if she only keeps
before her the one guiding principle not to make
the lessons a series of monotonous repetitions
of words learned by rote, but to make them
as interesting as possible, graduating them in
accordance with the child's powers of compre-
hension, so that he can assimilate them naturally
without any strain upon his memory.
As boys and girls get older the same care must
be maintained in seeing that their brains are
not overtaxed in any way. Remember that a
child's mental development should never be
forced to the detriment of his (or her) physical
well-being. It is a great deal to be deplored
that some parents and teachers are slow to
recognise the fact that a great amount of study
is very bad for some girls and boys. These as .a
rule are only too eager to learn, taking to theii"
books as ducks take to water ; nevertheless,
this avidity for learning must be checked if the
evil results of undue mental strain are to be
avoided. It is more natural for normal healthy
boys and girls to shirk some of their lessons than
to bo eager to have a double dose. Overs Liidy is
responsible for much ill-health amongst young
people. It unfortunately happens that at the
age of foiu'teen to fifteen, just when our children
require most care if they are to grow up well and
strong, they have to enter for some public ex-
amination, in preparation for which a certain
amount of cramming is required. The passing
of such an examination is often looked upon as a
matter of almost life and death by both children
and their parents, with the result that the former
are encouraged to study during all their leisure
hours and often until late at night, forgoing all
healthful exercise and recreation in order that
they may make sure of passing well. This is a
very wrong policy indeed, and to it may bo
ascribed many a nervous breakdown amongst
our girls and boys. Never tax a child with
learning beyond his (or her) powers. When any
special course of study is necessary, see that it is
strictly kept within the limits of working hours.
THE CHILD
491
Sufficient exercise and recreation are essential
for both the mental and physical well-being of
our children, and they must not be forgone
under any circumstances. When children must
enter for examination, let them begin their pre-
parations a long time beforehand in order that
there may be no undue rush at the end. For the
University Locals, for instance, one year's pre-
paration is not one bit too much, yet many
parents expect their children to get ready for
them in three or four months.
If, although given aniple time for prepara-
tion, a child is still unable to limit his studies to
regular houi"S, then it must be taken that the
task is altogether beyond liis (or her) powers,
and it should either be put oS for another year
or else altogether abandoned if needs be.
Parents should strive early to discover any
special aptitude displayed by their children,
in order that they may do their utmost to bring
out their talents in any particular direction.
Their education should be planned first and
foremost from the point of view of utility, special
attention being given to knowledge that will
prove useful to them in later hfe.
For instance, study of the classics should not
be pursued to such an extent as to leave little
time for foreign languages in the case of those
destined for a commercial career. When a
child has reached the ago of thirteen or fourteen,
a parent should see that his studies are directed
towards specialisation for the career of his choice.
The same applies to those girls who will have to
earn their own living as they reach a suitable
age. Too often parents spend all their time and
money upon the education of their boys, where-
as little trouble is expended upon the training of
the gu'ls ; a few years at a boarding-school and
perhaps a year at a " finishing " school too often
represents the sum total of the education of the
average girl, who, thus poorly equipped, is often
expected to go out into the world and earn her
own living in an age when specialisation is
exacted if one has to earn a living wage. Such
treatment is decidedly unfair ; when a girl has to
work for herself she has less odds in her favour
than a boy. Is it not all the more essential,
therefore, that she should go out into the world
fittingly equipped to hold her own in the career
she has chosen ? There are many careers njow
open to women, full details of which are given
in another part of this book, but in connection
with each trade or profession a certain amount
of specialisation is necessary if it is to be followed
with success.
A girl's education, therefore, requires to be
mapped out as carefully as that of her brothers,
more especially if she is required to turn it to
advantage in later life, but, and this is of the
utmost importance, the study of domestic science
should nor be excluded. Needlework, cookery,
and household management should form part of
every girl's curriculum. A mother should make
this training her special care. Too often nowa-
days girls are taught to look down upon house-
work of every kind, with the result that when
called upon to undertake the management of a
home of their own they are totally unfitted for
the task. S\ich mistaken poUcy is much to be
deplored ; a woman should not only be able
to hold her own in all branches of the womanly
art, but she should also take a pride in being
able to do so.
Value of Accomplishments for Girls. - In the
education of girls accomphshments should take
a prominent place, and all talent for music,
singing, painting, &c., should be carefully
brought out. An accomplished lady is not only
an ornament in society, but she serves to contri-
bute in a large measure to the happiness of her
own home. Accomphshments are always useful
to a girl, and should she by any circumstances be
compelled to earn her own livelihood, they can
always be turned to good account.
In selecting a school care should be taken to
ascertain whether there is good instruction in
music, drawing, painting and dancing ; and in
regard to the first three whether the pupils
are prepared for the examinations of the cliief
colleges of music and art. If lessons are taken
at home from private teachers, care should be
taken to ascertain that these are well qualified
in every way. It is a great advantage for Uttle
girls to learn dancing at a very tender age. This
helps to make their little hmbs and bodies supple
and pliable, and their carriage and deportment
graceful. Much of the native gaucherie of
childliood is eliminated by early instruction in
tliis art. As girls get older, fencing is also an
art which is worth cultivation, as its practice
secures an alertness and lightness of movement
which is not so easily acquired in any other way.
G5rmnastics are also essential, not only from the
point of view of health and physique, but also
from that of carriage and deportment. In most
of our towns, girls' classes are held at the largo
gymnasivmis, the fees for the course of instruction
being very moderate indeed. A girl should also
be encouraged to take part in healthy outdoor
games, such as hockey and tennis. She should
never be allowed to stoop when sittmg over table
or desk, as this habit is responsible for those un-
sightly round shoulders which do so luuch to mar
an otherwise good figure.
The doctrine of " self help " should be early
inculcated in the minds of girls and boys aUke,
and in this way they will be prepared for the
responsibilities of later Hfe. Parents should
rerciember that by giving their cliildren a good
mental and moral education they are endowing
them with what will pro^'e to be a most valuable
asset in life, the importance of which cannot be
too highly estimated. Let them see, therefore,
that they do their duty in this direction as far
as is in their power, and they will be happy in
the knowledge that they have left no stone uu-
492
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
turned to send their cliildren out into the world
fittingly equipped for the career of their
choice.
The Governess. - For their early education
children are often placed by parents under the
care of a governess, and many girls receive
their entire education from childhood to young
womanhood in this way. Parents cannot use
too much discrimination in choosing the lady to
whom they are to trust the tuition of their little
ones, but, incomprehensible though such a course
would seem, as a rule they place economy before
all other considerations, and where they would
pay their cook £25 a year without a qualm, they
grudge even £20 a year for the salary of their
governess. This point of view is altogether
wrong. Can parents ever be sufficiently grate-
ful to tlie lady who conscientiously fulfils her
duty towards her charges by givnng them a good
foundation upon which to build their future
education ? Is the v^'elfare of their children a
matter of such indifference to parents that they
grudge even a living wage to her to whom the
children will owe so much, if her task is well done?
The erroneous economy practised in this respect
is responsible for the large number of uneducated
young women who fill the position of " nursery
governess." They are content to do indifferent
work for indifferent wages ; in fact, in many cases
they are not much above the level of the ordinary
domestic servant, being called upon to combine
the duties of governess, nurse, and general help,
with the result that the children are not only
badly taught, but badly cared for as well.
Such a state of things should not be ; it is much
better to let the cliildren remain in the care of a
good nurse, taking their first lessons from their
mother until they are of an age to be put in the
charge of a fully qualified lady. When children
ai^ six or seven years old, if properly trained,
they have been taught to do little things for
themselves, and the care of them does not entail
so much work and worry as that of the very
little ones. There are well-educated ladies fully
equipped for teaching in every way who are
quite willing to take " entire charge " of children
of six years old and upwards, and who would
certainly not wish to be classed as " nursery "
governesses. There would be more room for
the many well-educated girls and women who
find it so hard to get positions, if mothers would
realise the fact that those in charge of the tuition
of even very little children must bo ladies of
izood education if they are to adequately fulfil
ihe important task entrusted to them. There
are also many other considerations by which
parents should be guided in engaging a governes.s.
The day of the harsh, unsympathetic disciplin-
arian is passed, or should be, with parents who
have the welfare of their little ones at heart. A
young bright girl who is fond of children is
infinitely preferable to an elderly spinster whom
age and care will probably have hardened, and
who often has but little sjonpathy with or
understanding of youth.
Employers cannot be too tactful in their
treatment of their governess. It must be re-
membered that a lady so situated fills a rather
anomalous position in a household, being of the
family and yet not of it. Tliey should remember
that she is a lady, and treat her accordingly.
Children and servants should be taught to look
upon her with respect. Some people make a
practice of constantly finding fault with the
governess before the children. Such conduct
is as harmful as it is ill-bred. The authority of
the governess must be upheld in every way by
the parents, who must punish the children for
any serious breach of discipline that is reported
to them.
Having assured themselves o£ the efficiency
and reliability of the lady they have chosen, they
must be content to place their confidence in
her. But they must first take particular care of
assuring themselves of her reliability. A mother
can exercise gentle supervision during the first
week or two of the lessons without in any way
appearing to do so. In this way she will be
able to form a fair judgment in regard to the
character of the governess - whether she is just
and has the power of self-control. If she has
not these qualities, she is unfit to fill the position
she occupies, however great her learning may be.
In most hovises the governess will join in all
the family meals wth the exception of dinner,
wliich she will take by herseK in the school-room
or another sitting-room. She should have her
evenings free as much as possible.
Choice of a School. - When a child is of an a^e
to begin study in real earnest, the question of the
choice of a school should be entered into. The
first point to be considered is whether a boarding-
school or a day-school should be selected. It
may as a rule be said that, in the case of girle
especially, it is better to keep the child at home,
if possible, until the ago of fifteen has passed.
The years between the age of thirteen and fifteen
are usually most critical ones in respect to both
the moral and physical development of boys and
girls. It is during these years that they require
the utmost care, both physically and morally,
and by whom are they likely to be so well guided
in both respects than by their mother. With
boys, however, such a course is not always
possible, more especially if they are to be sent
to some well-known public school situated at
a great distance from homo, or some special
college which hoB an age limit for admission,
such as the Osborne Naval College, where no
student must be over thirteen years of age at
the me of entry.
BOYS' SCHOOLS
Preparatory Schools. - These undertake the
preparation of boys for public schools, eight
THE CHILD
493
being the usual age of admission. The school
selected should preferably be one where day
boarders are received. It is always as well
to be informed as to the conditions ob-
taining at these schools in regard to the eligi-
bility to scholarships for public schools, as in
some cases only those pupils who have been at
least part of the time resident at the preparatory
school are eligible. Special entrance scholar-
ships to the various public schools may be won
at many of these preparatory establishments.
A list of well-known prepai-atory schools may be
found in the Public Schools Year Book (Swan
Sonneschein & Co., 2s. 6d.).
The Public Schools. - In its narrowest sense
the term " Public School " is limited to the great
foundations of Winchester College (founded
1387), Eton College (1440), Rugby School (1587),
and Hnrrow School (1571). But the name is now
popularly t^stended in England to such institu-
tions as are modelled upon one or other of these
historic foundations, and in some cases possess
venerable traditions. They always give a first-
class education, leading on to the great univer-
sities or to " the Services," and are officered by a
staff composed of high university graduates ; and
afford a common life for the pupils and all the
means for the pursuit of athletics, which has
become more and more a passion with the youth
of England. No country in the world has
institutions comparable to the great Public
Schools of Great Britain.
With the exceptions natural to even the best
of human institi^tions, the " pubUc school man "
bears a stamp, moral, i lental and physical, which
is easily recognised.
These schools are usually organised in three
departments : ( 1 ) Classical, preparing for the
universities, certain professions, and higher
branches of the Civil Service ; (2) Modem, pre-
paring for the ai'my, engineering, and the leading
positions in commercial and industrial pursuits ;
and (3) Junior, for the younger boys who have
not yet decided whether to enter the Classical
or the Modern side. The usual age for admission,
except to the Junior School, is twelve, mth
fifteen as the extreme limit ; pupils remain as
a rule till nineteen. Application for admission
has often to be made three or four years or even
longer beforehand. Entrance Scholarships and
Exhibitions are in some cases fairly numerous,
but they are rarely won except by boys who have
attended a preparatory school practically con-
nected with some public school, or who have
worked with a private tutor, whose tuitioix has
been especially directed towards this particular
object.
Grammar Schools. - ^Those with whom means
are an important consideration cannot do
better than send their boys to one of these
schools, where the average fees are much lower
than in the caso of the public schools. In con-
nection with most of these schools there are
numerous entrance scholarships, which cover
the cost of tuition and boolvs, and perhaps part
of the cost of maintenance as well, and not
infrequently there are leaving scholarships to
help the holders to a university or university
college, or to professional education at a
medical school, &c.
Before selecting such a school it is weU worth
inqxiiring what provision there is of leaving
scholarships and exhibitions, and if any parti-
cular career in life is already in view for the
pupil, it should be seen whether the school
makes special provision for such requirements -
whether, for instance, if it is intended to keep
the pupil at school till eighteen or nineteen, the
upper forms of the school are so arranged as to
afford suitable instruction for pupils of that age.
If the top form of a school has an average age
of about sixteen, the school will usually lead
more suitably to ordinary business in the city,
clerkships in banks, or to the lower branches of
the Civil Service - whereas if the average age
of the scholars in the top form is eighteen, the
school will probably give suitable preparation
for the universities and professions, the army,
or the higher branches of the Civil Service.
Private Schools. - Great care and judgment
must be expended upon a selection of a school
of the kind. The qualifications of the head
teacher and staff in the way of university
diplomas, teaching degrees, &c., should be con-
sidered ; it should be seen that the number of
qualified members of the staff is adequate to
the variety of ages and attainments of the
pupils, and that the provision of apparatus, class-
rooms, laboratories, &c., is adequate. Above all,
special inquiry should be made as to the results
of the teacliing when submitted to the test of
public examination.
Of course the scope and aims of private schools
vary widely ; some give an excellent preparation
for the universities ; others for more professional
studies (law, medicine, agricultiu-e, applied
science, &c.) ; others for the Civil Service (first
or second class clerkships, the excise, customs,
post office, &c.) ; the army or the navy, &c., and
these points must be taken into consideration
in selecting such a school.
University Education. - Admission to the uni-
versities cannot be obtained by students under
sixteen years of age. A university training is
of particular use to those who wish to follow
any of the learned professions. It is some-
what costly, however, although, scholarships
and exhibitions are numerous, and form a solu-
tion of the expense difficulty for those who
are fortunate enough to obtain them. But even
though he be the proud winner of a scholarship,
a young man will have to bo of frugal and
economical habits if he hopes to make any head-
way. The great difficulty lies in the fact that
in the leading universities the wealthier classes
predominate, and young men of limited means
494
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
are apt to feel acutely their inability to be " in
the swim." It requires sound common sense,
total absence of pride, an ability to economise,
and, above all, strict attention to work, to make
a university career a success under such con-
ditions.
A fairly well-educated candidate has an
excellent chance of obtaining a scholarship.
Besides university scholarsliips and exhibitions,
most of the public schools have awards at their
disposal to help their pupils to the universities,
whilst public bodies such as the London County
Council are increasingly devoting their funds
to a system of senior scholarships, with a similar
end in view. Tlie city companies also offer
exhibitions to help students at Oxford or
Cambridge.
GIRLS' SCHOOLS
A mother cannot expend too much care upon
the selection of a school for her daughters, both
in regard to the tuition provided and to the
pupils with whom she will have to associate.
This most especially applies to boarding-schools,
for in the case of day-schools a girl remains
under home influence, which is more successful
than anything else in checking the danger to be
derived from unsuitable companions.
Private Schools. - As regards these, what has
been said in the case of boys' schools applies with
even more force to those for girls. Some of
them are excellent, whilst others are unsatis-
factory and even inefficient, and the tests which
have been recommended in connection with the
choosing of private schools for boys should al-
ways be applied. Inquiry should be made to
ascertain that the school is conducted upon
up-to-date methods, and that ample provision
is made for the girls in the way of healthful
exercise, outdoor games, and athletic training.
Also that suitable food is provided. Fees at
private schools vary to a great extent, but it is
by no means the ca.se that the more expensive
schools are superior to the less expensive ones.
It is always better, where possible, to select a
school that has been recommended by friends
who have sent their daughters there, and whose
reliability and good judgment are beyond
dispute.
High Schools. - In most of our towns of any
size there are good high schools for girls which
have been established by public companies, and
are able to offer a good education at a moderate
cost, so that, except in rural districts or the
smaller towns, a parent ought to be able to pro-
cure a good education for girls at a fee of between
ten and twenty guineas per annum, although of
course this figure can bo very easily swelled by
the many " extras " which are so often necessary
in the education of girls. The schools are
"day " schools, but in connectoni with many of
them there are licensed boarding-houses for
boarders. They in most cases provide for girls
an education as thorough as that received by
boys in public schools of the highest class.
Convent Education. - Various Anglican and
Roman Catholic Sisterhoods supply an excellent
education for girls. Mostly there is no question
of creed for admission, nor is religious instruc-
tion given where not desired ; still the religious
atmosphere must have its influence, although
no bias may be intentionally imparted ; on the
other hand, the sisters are mostly ladies, who
devote their lives to the work of education, and
the example of their culture and refinement is
of incalculable value. Education at most of
these establishments is based upon modern
methods, pupils being prepared for the university
locals and other examinations.
Colleges. - There are now colleges for girls
which approach the rank of university institu-
tions. Amongst these may be mentioned
Queen's College, Harley Street, London, W.,
wliich gives a course of instruction to pupils
up to the age of twenty or even higher, with
the intention, not of preparing for particular ex-
aminations, but of fitting pupils for their duties
in society ; the fees are thirty guineas a year
for tuition, with extras ; boarders seventy-five
guineas extra.
The Cheltenham Ladies' College (established
in 1854) gives special preparation for the B.A.
and B.Sc. courses of London University, as well
as for the Cambridge Higher Local and other
advanced examinations, and has highly success-
ful departments in Art, Music, and Gymnastics.
The fees are from twelve to twenty-four guineas
per annum, while there are fourteen boarding-
houses whose fees vary from fifty -four to ninety-
three guineas. Each year there is awarded at
least one scholarship of from £25 to £45 at St.
Hilda's Hall, Oxford, which was originally
founded to receive the elder students of Chelten-
ham College.
University Education. - At Oxford and Cam-
bridge women are examined and classed, but
degrees are not yet granted them. At the other
universities women are admitted to degrees on
the same terms as men almost without excep-
tion : London University led the way in 1878 ;
the Scotch Universities followed suit in 1892 ;
and Durham in 1895. Trinity College, Dublin,
also h£is admitted women on the same terms as
men. The younger universities have through-
out their existence received women ; and the
University of Wales admits them to a share in
the management of the university, exactly as it
does men. In most cases special provision has
been made for the residence of women students,
while usually they have shared the tuition offered
to the men (though sometimes they have their
own lectures, as at Cambridge and Glasgow).
There are fom* halls of residence for women
students at Oxford, i.e. Lady Margaret Hall,
Somerville College, St. Hugh's Hall and St.
THE CHILD
495
Hilda'a Hall. At Cambridge there are two
residential colleges, i.e. Girton and Newnham.
Scholarships and exhibitions are offered each
year in connection with these colleges.
In connection with the London University the
" Schools of the University " for women are
Bedford College, the Royal Holloway College,
and Westfield College.
Coming out of a Daughter. - It is a great event
in the life of a girl when she puts up her hair
for the first time and goes into long frocks ; for
when she does this she has left her childhood for
ever behind her. In most families eighteen is
the accepted age for a girl's introduction into
society - in some cases seventeen years repre-
sents the momentous epoch. The coming out
of a daughter is usually signab'sed by a dance
given by her parents. In higher social circles
it is also marked by her presentation at Court
(see p. 35S).
Very often, however, her debut is made at a
house other than that of her parents, in which
case she should always be under the chaperonage
of her mother or some other relation. The con-
ventional dress for the debutante is nearly always
white, though within the last two years colours
of the lighter and more delicate shades have been
worn upon this occasion. Tradition, however,
dies hard, and white is stiU and ever will be first
favourite in this respect. The dance toilette
with low neck and short sleeves is of course
de rigueur.
Before her daughter's coming out a mother
should be carefril to accustom her to the ways
and manners of society. She should allow her
always to be present at small afternoon parties
and At Homes, and all other functions at which
it is permissible for a girl who is not yet out to
attend. Particular care should be taken to see
that she is quite au fait in the dances of the
season. It must be remembered that a graceful
dancer is an acquisition to any ball-room, whereas
the girl who is gauche in any way will prove
a severe trial to her partner.
The first dance of a debutante will be the fore-
runner of in^'itations to many others. It is
needless to caution a mother that she should
exercise discretion in allowing acceptance of all
of these. In the first place only invitations from
people of whom the parents approve in every
way should be accepted, and in the second place
no girl should be allowed to lavmch at once into
too great a whirligig of parties, balls and dances.
This kind of thing is apt to be overdone during
a girl's first season, and although youth is pro-
verbially energetic, yet there are some girls who
would be unequal to a strain of this kind. The
wise mother will not let her pride in her
daughter's success surmount the important con-
sideration of care for her health, and will
exercise a judicious cutting of the party list
where necessary. (See also Etiquette of Balls
and Dances.)
CHILDREN'S CLOTHING
As compared with the fasluoning of her own
garments, the cutting out and making of chil-
dren's clothes presents a comparatively easy task
for the home worker.
A clever needlewoman can with good patterns
save many a penny spent on her children's cloth-
ing. Material is cheap to buy ; it is the making
that costs so much. Very often, too, larger
garments, provided the material is good and
suitable, can be utilised to make frocks and
coats for the Uttle ones.
Daintiness and simplicity are the chief
qualities which should characterise their cloth-
ing wherever possible. The needlework may be
of the finest, the materials of the best, but any
extreme elaboration in trimming and orna-
mentation should be avoided. Simplicity per-
tains to childhood, and in no respect does this
simplicity shine to greater advantage than in the
matter of dress. The unfortunate befrilled and
beflounced little mites who are continually
dressed up in silks and finery quite unsuitable
for their years and are always " on show," as it
were, miss much of the happiness of childhood.
They are not allowed to romp and play like other
cliildren for fear of spoiling their fine clothes.
Soon they become self-conscious, sometimes even
affected, and as a result develop into miniature
little men and women of the world before they
enter into their teens.
Naturalness and simplicity are the great
charms of childhood, and a mother is a very
poor friend to her child if, however fond and
loving her motives, she gives rein to her maternal
pride by continually decking the Uttle one out
in extravagant clothes, thus installing into the
child's mind an abiiormal sense of the importance
of dress and finery.
Let the Httle one's clothes be always spotlessly
clean, neat and well-fitting, but remember that
the more simply a child is dressed the better
she vfiW look, whilst an over-dressed child will
invariably lay her parents open to the charge
of vulgarity.
Children's clothing must also be of a kind that
will protect them from cold or heat. A wise
mother will see that flannel or wool in some form
or other is worn next the skin. If wooUen com-
binations were worn all the year round there
would be much less chance of the little ones
catching cold. The textiu-e of the garment may
of course be altered to suit the season of the
year, a thinner make of wool being worn in
summer than in winter.
It is also important that the clothing should
be large enough to permit of growth ; there must
be no tightness nor restriction, and at the same
time the garments must not be too large and
bulky. This is sometimes difficult with growing
chilch-en ; they have no sooner been pro\-ided
with a set of clothes than they seem to have
496
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
outgrown them. For this reason it is a mistake
to proNnde large numbers of anything ; rather
give just enough to allow for the necessary
changing and washing, and let the cliild give
them constant wear. This would no doubt
mean frequent renewals, but it will be renewals
in small quantities, and this is much to be pre-
ferred to having to alter garments which have
scarcely been worn, or perhaps discjird them
altogether.
Another mistake made in the dressing of
children is to give them too many different
garments and thus burden their little bodies and
hamper their movements. Rather give a few
and see that the material is of the right warmth,
than pile on a number of unnecessary articles
of clothing.
Three or foiu- complete coverings ought to be
quitљ enough for both girls and boys. With
little boys, for instance, it is a mistake to con-
tinue the petticoat stage, and at eighteen months.
Boy's Tunic.
if they have reached the running-about stage, the
long tunic or smock with the little drawers or
knickers below might well bo started. They
can be made in serge, wincey, delaine, or any
good washing materiaL
Boy's Blouse. - When the little boy is older a
blouse may take the plac^ of the smock. This is
a garment which can very easily be made by
the home worker. Almost any material can be
used for this - serge, cloth, linen, print, drill,
velvet, or silk. Short trousers would complete
the costume, and as a rule these are best made
in the same material as the blouse, except in
tbi case of white silk blouses, which can bo very
well worn with navy blue knickers.
Sleeping Suit. - These should be started with
little boys as soon as good habits have been
formed. In fa^t, they are very often used for
little girla aa well - especially when they are in-
clined to kick off the bed-clothes at m'ght. If
a good pattern is obtained, it is very simple
to make. Viyella, wincey, or fine shirting are the
most suitable materials.
Child's Seaside Overall. - This is one of the
most useful garments designed for the use of the
tiny tots during recent years. It is worn by the
little ones over their dresses when at play, and
forming, as it does, a combination of overdress
and loose knickers, it effectually protects the
Seaside Overall.
frock underneath from all dust and du-t. For
babies who have reached the " crawling about
the floor " stage it is an ideal garment. Galatea,
gingham, and holland are suitable materials for
the making of these overalls.
The Yoke Frock. - Perhaps there is nothing
more serviceable for the little girl of from two
to ten years than the simple yoke frock. Thiu
usually consists of two breadths of material
gathered into a yoke, and as with the exception
of the yoke no fitting is required, a frock of this
kind is an extremely simple one to make.
It is always as well to cut the skirt of the frock
fairly long, in the first instance, maV'ng a
number of hand-sewn tucks above the hem.
This can be let down by degrees as thi child
grows, and a frock of this kind has been known
to last for years. (For Making Tucks, see p. 394. )
Frocks of a more dressy nature for party and
best wear may be made from a simple yoke dress
pattern. If instead of gathering, the skirt is
arranged back and front in a series of vertical
tucks from the yoke to the waist, a pretty little
empire frock can be made. For party wear the
sleeves can be made short and lace insertion
applied in different designs on the yoke and at
the hem, whilst a pretty sash can be tied round
the waist. In fine white cambric or washing
silk a frock of this kind can be made to look
very dainty indeed and fit for any dressy occa-
sion. For a little girl of six, two yards of material
forty-four inches wide will be required.
Embroidery flouncing is much used in the
making of lingerie dresses for the tiny tots.
THE CHILD
497
Yoke frocks made of flouncing should be cut
more in the empire style, that is to say, the entire
artnhole should be cut in the yoke, the flouncing
hanging straight from it without the usual
slightly curved piece under the arm.
The Djibbah. - This is an admirable style of
garment for a little girl, and it is easily cut out
and put together, as the sleeves are made in one
with the rest of the garment and there is only
one seam xinder the arm. It is also very com-
fortable to wear, as it slips over the head and
there is no trouble with buttons or other
fastenings.
It can be made useful for different purposes ;
either it may be worn over a frock as a simple
overall, or, in summer, with a little muslin or
silk top, it will serve as a frock by itself. The
little tops can very often be made from a silk
Djibbah.
or muslin dress which has become too short.
The dress should be cut off at the waist and
fastened on with a draw-string.
Illustration shows a djibbah designed by
Mrs. Drew, 32 Comely Bank, Edinburgh, who
makes a speciality of children's clothing of an
artistic character.
Letting in Insertion. - Open-work insertion is
a favourite ornamentation for the best lingerie
frocks for the little ones ; the insertion should
be added after the frock has been made up, and
evenly laid on as required. To make it open-
work after it has been basted on, take a pair of
scissors and cut the back of the material upon
which the insertion has been laid, being careful
not to cut the latter ; turn back the edges and
hem neatly.
Hem-stitcliing Frocks by Macliine. - Hem-
stitching makes a very dainty finish to little
lingerie frocks, but it is not every mother who
has the time to do this fine work by hand. Very
effective imitation hem-stitching can be done,
however, by machine in this manner : - After
the hem has been turned over, cut it away from
the rest of the skirt about a quarter of an inch
above the place where the stitching of the hem
would come. Then fold up enough blotting-
paper or any other kind of soft paper to the
tliickness of one-eighth of an inch, and insert it
between the edges of the piece cut off and the
lower edge of the skirt from which it has been cut,
which are placed one on the top of the other as in
sewing a seam, and having loosened the tension
of the machine, make a quarter -inch seam,
sewing both through the material and the paper.
When the seam is finished, cut the paper carefully
close to the stitches and pull it out. The upper
edge is folded back, the hem edge folded over,
and the hem is stitched with a row of fine
machine stitching close to the edge. Another
row of fine stitching should be made over the
edge of the upper part.
Shoes and Stockings. - The clotlaing of chil-
dren's feet and legs is a verj' important matter.
Woollen stockings are the best for all ordinary
occasions, and the texture may vary in thick-
ness according to the season of the year. They
must fit well, because if too tight they will cramp
the foot, and if too loose they will be liable to
cause blisters. The practice of putting short
stockings or socks on children is a very risky
one, and the cause of many a dull and serious
illness. It is very necessary to keep the legs
warm, and only in warm weather is it permissible
to leave them bare.
Properly -fitting boots sire also most essential.
It must be remembered that in the child the
bones consist chiefly of gristle, and are easily
put out of shape if under pressure of any kind.
It is always better when it can be managed to
have the boots made to order, but if bought
ready made the greatest care must be taken with
the fitting. They must be neither too large nor
too small, the sole ought to be broad enough for
the expansion of the toes, the heels low and the
toes nicely rounded. Lacing boots are as a rule
bettor than those that button. If the boot is
badly shaped it is not only the foot that suffers,
but the leg and spine as well. Sandals have
been much worn of late years, but those are
only suitable for summer wear.
(For Children's Millinery, see p. 394.)
2i
HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL
Thsre vras a time when English people were content to spend their holidays at home, never stirring
beyond the hmits of their own native town or village. To-day things have changed, and the annual
migration to the country, seaside, or continent is now a typical feature of EngUsh family life. The
progress made in the emancipation of womanhood is also typified by the number of women and
girls who travel alone. It is for the use of those women, and for mothers who have a great deal of
the worry and care attendant upon the organisation of their children's holidays, that the hints given
in this chapter are primarily intended.
THE ANNUAL HOLIDAY
The annual trip to the country or seaside is
the object of much saving and contriving and
endless preparation on the part of both patet
and materfamilias, as weU as much eager
anticipation upon the part of the little ones,
yet how seldom does it turn out to be a complete
success.
To begin with, going away with the children
will not afford materfamilias any appreciable
respite from her daily round of domestic duties ;
very often indeed it will mean added work and
anxiety. Paterfamilias also is apt to be
worried with innumerable little trivialities con-
sequent upon the care and management of a
young family, which takes away a great deal
from the enjoyment to be derived from a respite,
however brief, from the daily business routine.
The conclusion to bo arrived at is obvious.
Since it can never be a complete holiday for
parents to be always with their children, some-
time or other during the year they would do well
to have a short holiday to themselves, away from
their family. If no more than a week can be
managed for this, at any rate let this week be
altogether free from all domestic cares of any
kind. They should never attempt to make a
holiday for themselves out of the children's
holidays, for they will be doomed to disappoint-
ment. Parents may derive pleasure and happi-
ness from the enjoyment of their little ones,
but the very planning of that enjoyroent will
prevent them from having any real rest. They
should make up their minds, therefore, to keep
th ir own holidays entirely distinct from those
of the children if thoy are to derive any real
benefit therefrom. Tlie advisability of the
annual holiday A deixx for parents has been a
groat deal discussed in the columns of our lead-
ing newspapers, many of which have conducted
a lengthy correspondence upon the subject. The
result has always been a concensus of opinion in
its favour. Furthermore, it has also been advo-
cated that pater and materfamilias should spend
a portion of their holidays apart from each other
as well as apart from the children - the wife going
to her friends or relations, the husband spending
it in the pursuit of a favourite pastime, such as
shooting, fishing, golf, &c. There is much to be
said in favour of this arrangement.
When, for instance, a man's ideal holiday con-
sists of either a long cross-country walking tour,
clad in a serviceable suit of tweeds and with no
other luggage than a knapsack on his back - or
else when he thinks nothing is more enjoyable
than to adopt a fisherman's life for the time
being, going out in a saihng boat with a fishing
fleet - in short, when his sole idea of enjoyment
is to " rough " it in every way possible, it stands
to reason that a woman would be out of place
in a holiday of the kind. The sensible mater-
familias will realise this, and will allow her hus-
band to spend at least a week in his own sweet
way. Having done this he will enter with much
more zest into the scheme for the rest of the
holidays.
It heis been suggested that a four weeks' holi-
day should be divided up as follows : -
One week to be spent by husband and wife
separately and apart from their children.
One week to be spent by husband and wife
together.
Two weeks to be spent with the children.
During the fortnight that the parents are
away, the children might be sent to a farm-house
in the country in the charge of a governess or
nurse.
This plan is not, however, always feasible, and
in families where the children go to a boarding-
school the parents will generally find it advisable
to take their holiday during term time.
In other cases people have not the means to
enable them to take separate holidays, the
family vacation of two or three weeks being the
utmost they can af?ord. In these circumstances
HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL
499
more care than ever must be taken in planning
out the holidays that there may be a time of
enjoyment for parents as well as for the children.
If the former make up their minds to spare them-
selves as much worry as possible by careful
organisation and arrangement, and to enter
wholeheartedly into the amusement of their
little ones, much will be done to achieve this
desirable end.
THE CHILDREN'S HOLIDAYS
In planning the hoUdays for the family careful
calculation must be made of the money that can
be spent, allowing ample margin for the hundred
and one little odd expenses that are apt to
crop up when one is away from home. Nothing
mars enjoyment more than the knowledge that
one has miscalculated expenses, and that many
pleasant little excursions have to be denied and
other economies practised as a result.
Great care should be taken in the selection of
both locality and rooms. Where there are chil-
dren, if the seaside is chosen, preference should
be given not to a " show " place, where it seems
to be the sole aim of the visitors to change their
toilettes several times a day and be always on
parade, but to a place where there is a vast
expanse of sandy beach, where the little ones can
dig and build sand castles to their heart's con-
tent. Places on the east coast of England are
generally bracing, whilst south -coast resorts are
warmer and more relaxing, and this fact should
be borne in mind, as very bracing air agrees with
most people, but is too ;trong for some, who are
better in a more relaxing atmosphere.
It is better as a rule to take a good suite of
rooms in preference to a furnished house. In the
latter case the housewife will have more than
the usual worries of house-management, for she
will have the care and worry of looking after
other people's furniture with the responsibiUty
for breakages, a number of which invariably
occur whatever precautions are taken ; and when
the inventory is checked at the expiration of her
tenancy, she may find that she has quite a lot to
pay in this respect.
In some cases, however, the family of little
ones is so largo that it is not always possible to
obtain suitable apartments for their accommo-
dation. In these circumstances it will become
necessary to take a furnished house. Care
should be taken that the latter is as compact as
possible in every way, so that housework is re-
duced to a minimum. It will be necessary in the
case of taking a house to take one's servants
also. It might be possible to allow each of
these, however, a short holiday in turn, if
care is taken in selecting a house that is easily
worked. Sometimes an exchange of houses
may be arranged.
In taking a honse it is as well to avoid one with
very old furniture and fitted carpets, as a house
of this kind will be very difficult to keep clean.
In the case of fitted carpets, it should be insisted
that these are lifted and well beaten and
cleaned, and the floors thoroughly well scrubbed
before taking up the tenancy. (Law in regard to
Furnished Houses, p. 381.)
In selecting rooms it should be ascertained
that they are clean, airy, fight, and well ventilated.
Many people who go to the seaside are apt to
sacrifice one or the other of these important
essentials to health and comfort for the sake of
having their windows looking on to the sea
front. This is a mistake : where large and com-
fortable rooms may be had facing the sea, well
and good, but everything should not be made
subservient to a sea view. Health and comfort
must be considered. Lodging-house keepers as
a general rule trade upon the idiosyncrasy of
holiday-makers to have rooms on the front at
all costs, by asking exorbitant prices for the
smallest apartments which boast so much as a
narrow side-window looking on to the sea.
If better rooms can be found in a road leading
to but not actually on the front, preference
should be given to them. Proximity to the
beach is of course an important consideration
where there are little ones, and if not actually
on the front, the rooms should be chosen as near
to it as possible.
In the better -known and more fashionable
seaside resorts in England £1, Is. a room per week
represents the average charge for August ; in
some places this is the figure for both July and
August, and in others for August and September
in accordance with the months constituting the
" season " at each individual resort.
Boarding-houses are quite unsuitable for
children. In the first place, their presence is
often in a meastire resented by the other guests ;
in the second place, the fare is not always suited
to juvenile needs, and where any exception to
the general rule is made in their favour, the
charges for extras mount up to a remarkable
degree.
When the holidays must of necessity take
place during the busy season, it is essential to
engage the rooms some time beforehand. A
visit of inspection should always be made and
a clear understanding as to terms arrived at.
Be careful to find out what items will fall under
the very elastic term of " extras," which is often
made to apply to a great many other items in
addition to the usual light, &c. It is better,
indeed, to make an arrangement for all charges
to be " inclusive," paying a little more if neces-
sary.
The Country. - A few weeks spent at a farm-
house in some pretty country place forms an
ideal holiday for the children. Here they can
roam about in the fields and woods at will - the
life on a farm is full of interest to them. They
love to help to feed chickens and pigs and other
denizens of the farmyard, and great is the interest
500
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
they take in the daily round of the farmer's work.
Then what pleasant drives may be had through
country lanes in the pony cart or trap, which is
usually to be hired at almost everj- large farm
at a very moderate figure ; and what splendid
picnics may be organised with very little trouble
in the woods and meadows.
Farm-house apartments must be taken before-
hand, as they are very quickly snapped up during
the summer months, ^\^len you have settled
upon one or two likely districts, it is a good
plali to write to the postmaster of the village,
asking him to recommend one or two good farm-
houses where apartments are let. Then upon
the first available day a visit of inspection
should be made. Be careful first of all to see
that the sanitary arrangements are good and up
to date. In many country places, for instance,
it will be foimd that the lavatory is in the
garden. This is an obvious drawback, more
especially in case of illness, and careful inquiry
should be made in regard to this before taking
the rooms. However pretty and picturesque
these may be with their old-time ingle-nooks and
chimney-pieces, if the sanitary arrangements
are not perfect they are best avoided.
There are many advantages wliich a holiday
at a farm-house possesses over one at the seaside.
In the first place, rooms are much cheaper, and
the food is usiially good. Very often no more than
one or two famiUes at most will be taken, and
the farmer's wife will be willing to do the cater-
ing as well as provide lodging at a moderate
inclusive sum per head, consulting always the
tastes of the family and the special needs of the
children. Not having a large number of guests
to cater for as in boarding-houses, the guests are
not restricted to the set menus that form the
order of the day at the latter -named establish-
ments.
Dinner will usually be in the middle of the day
unless a late meal is especially desired, and
the food will be plain, but pure and wholesome
and usually well cooked. Careful inquiries in
regard to the quality of the cooking should be
mskde before hiring the rooms. The reputation
of a bad cook travels fast, and if the post-
master Ls not au fait in regard to the qualifications
of the farmer's wife in this respect, it will be
found that the \-illage shopkeepers will be only
too ready to enlighten the visitors and to recom-
mend some other place, as it is to their interest
v-isitors should make as long a stay as possible
and return again the next year, and this they
certainly will not do if their surroundings are
either uncomfortable or uncongenial. From the
point of view of economy a holiday at a farm-
housefor the children is much to be recommended,
as, apart from the lower charges for board and
lodging, incidental expenses are also very much
less.
General Hints. - The sole secret of making the
children's holiday a success is to see that they
have plenty of occupation. The nature of this
must of course Vary \\-ith the place where the
holiday is spent. The amusements to be had
in the country naturally differ considerably from
those at the seaside. From the point of view
of occupation and amusement, more varied in-
terests as a rule will be found by the sea. Bath-
ing, paddling, boating are all sources of great
delight to the children, and, as a rule, the entire
mornings may be spent on the beach, part of the
time being occupied in bathing or paddling. Iti
regard to the last-named amusement so dear to
the little ones, a mother should be careful to see
that they wear shady hats when paddling and
that their heads are not exposed to the pitilea."
rays of the sun dviring the warmest part of the
daj'. The little legs and feet should also be well
dried with a rough towel when the cliildren
come out of the water. It is a most repre-
hensible habit to allow them to run about with
wet feet and legs to be dried up by the smi for
the mere sake of getting sun -burnt.
The children should be encouraged in following
pet hobbies such as shell and seaweed collect-
ing, photography, &c., and the parents should
show a sympathetic interest in these and be as
helpful as possible in their suggestions. They
may be allowed to have a run on the sands
before breakfast, but bathing should not be
indulged in before the early morning meal.
Tlicy should never be allowed to remain more
than from five to ten minutes in the water.
Dinner should always be in the middle of the
day, and half-an-hour's rest should bo taken after
this midday meal. Then the little ones will be
ready for a walk, a drive, or any little excur-
sion that may have been planned. For wet
afternoons and evenings, good games should be
organised in wliich both grown-ups and little
ones take part.
If the children are kept thoroughly occupied
in this manner during the whole of the vacation,
the time will pass pleasantly and hapi;ily - if
not, the holidays are apt to drag painfully for
both children and parents. It must be remem-
bered also that in this variable climate of ours
wet weather during the holidays is a factor which
has constantly to be reckoned with, hence it
behoves parents to go to the seaside prepared
for eventualities of the kind, planning out a
complete scheme of amusement for the wet as
well as for the fine days.
THE WOMAN WORKER S HOLIDAY
Those who are working all the year round,
whether it be at teaching, in an office, or in any
other of the callings now open to women, will
require to get the utmost out of the short respite
afforded by the holidays from the routine of
their workaday life. The holidays should be
looked upon by them as a real rest and period of
recuperation, during which they can lay in a
HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL
501
fresh store of health and strength for their next
year of work.
One word of warning in this respect. People
who habitually lead sedentary lives must not
rush all at once to the opposite extreme during
vacation time. Walking fifteen to twenty miles
a day, for instance, when one is unaccustomed to
such exercise, can only mean a heavy strain upon
the strength and do more harm than good.
Rushing about from one place to another in the
effort to cram all the sightseeing possible into a
week or two weeks is also harmful. It is wiser
to take things easily at first, taking the first two
days to acclimatise oneself to one's surroundings,
and increasing gradually the measure of exercise
taken as the time goes on. The woman who has
only a week or a fortnight's hoUday will find it
harder to keep to tins rule than the woman who
has from a month to six weeks, but she should
keep to it as far as possible.
When a tour through any part of the country
is arranged it should be done by easy stages,
overtiring of any kind being avoided. Women
nowadays show a tendency to nxsh away to
crowded resorts where prices are high, and
neglect the many beautiful little spots with
which our country abounds, notably in Devon,
Cornwall, and Wales, where it is possible to spend
the vacation in the pleasantest manner with the
minimum amount of outlay. The one thing that
deters people from exploring regions to them
unknown lies in the fact that their ignorance
of the place involves also ignorance of the
nature of accommodation to be found there in
the way of board anc^ lodging, and as both good
housing and wholesome food are indispensable
in ensuring the success of a holiday, they prefer
returning year after year to the same spot than
to embark as it were upon a voyage of discovery.
For those so situated, the booklet " Holiday
Resorts," published by the Teachers' Guild of
Great Britain and Ireland, will be found very
useful. It contains a long Ust of recommended
addresses throughout the United Kingdom and
abroad, wliich has been specially compiled for
the use of teachers on their holidays.
Boarding-Houses. - In England the " pension "
or boarding-house system has greatly developed
during recent years. Boarding-house life is
both suitable and enjoyable if proper caro is
employed in the judicious selection of an estab-
lishment. As a general rule, it is inadvisable to
take rooms in a house that has not been recom-
mended by some friend, although some people
are remarkably quick at forming judgment upon
inspection as to whether a particular place will
suit them or not. It must be remembered that
at most frequented resorts during the busy
season it will be practically impossible to engage
a room at a boarding-house for a day to see if it
will suit ; it will be necessary to take it for a
week at least, ind a week of discomfort will prove
BO much time of the holiday practically wasted
for all the good it will do. Another thing to
bear in mind is - do not go to a fashionable sea-
side resort in August under the impression that
you will get good board and a comfortable room
at 303. a week. Augiist is essentially a month
of inflated prices, when boarding-house keepers
reap their harvest. All accommodation ofltered
under two guineas a week will as a rule turn
out to be poor, the latter sum representing the
minimum charge during the season of all reliable
establishments. Of course, this does not apply
to the less fashionable resorts or places which do
not boast of piers, bands, concerts, and the other
manifold attractions of the up-to-date seaside
towns, but in even the smaller seaside resorts
prices in August are higher than at any other
time.
THE COUNTRY COTTAGE
In several of our country villages pretty little
cottages may be f o\ind in many cases at as low
rentals as £12 a year. With many the country
cottage has formed the solution of the holiday
problem, not only for the summer vacation, but
for week-ends throughout the year. A little
place of the kind is kept up at very little
expense. A woman or a man and wife can
often be found to look after it and keep it
in order in retiirn for ha\'ing the use of it
rent free when the owners are not in occupa-
tion. The furniture reqiiired is of the simplest
and need represent very little outlay. Many
people who have tried the experiment claim
that, in spite of money spent in rent, up-
keep, &c., the possession of a cottage of this
kind enables them to have much longer and more
frequent hohdays and at a lower cost than in
any other circmnstances.
THE HOLIDAY ABROAD
In these days of facilities for cheap and easy
travel and of tourist agents who conduct care-
fully-planned-out tours abroad at a minimum
of expense, the proportion of English people who
spend their annual holiday upon the continent
is decidedly on the increase. The advantages
of such a holiday are manifold. To begin with,
the average English woman who never stirs
beyond the limits of her own native shores is
apt to become too insular and narrow-minded
in her ideas. There is nothing that has a more
educating effect than traveUing in foreign
countries and mixing with people of other
nationahties, nor is there anything more cal-
culated to broaden our outlook upon things.
The continental holiday nowadays is even
within reach of the business woman who earns
no more than 30s. to £2 a week salary. What
more pleasant change can she derive than by
spending a week or a fortnight in Belgium, the
most accessible country for people of limited
means. It will cost her little more than a holi-
602
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
day spent at a seaside resort at home, where
£2, 2s. is tlie minimum season cliarge for board
and lodging, to say notliing of railway fares and
other incidental expenses.
Unfortunately there are many English women
who never sliow to advantage when travelling
in other coimtries. They toil to adapt them-
selves to their surroundings, not being able to
realise the fact that, though many of the customs
of the foreigners are different from ours, yet they
have a perfect right to practise them in their
own covmtry, and that it is the stranger who
must conform with the customs of the country
in wliich she is a visitor. The truth of the saying
" In Rome one must do as Romans do " has yet
to be realised by many an English woman who,
when travelling; has the knack of leaving her
good manners behind her. In this respect she
does not err in so marked a manner as English-
men abroad, whose aggressive personality, loud
voice and manner, and still louder dress were
at one time so much held up to ridicule by the
French caricaturist. It must be admitted, how-
ever, that this type of John Bull has become
greatly modified during recent years, though a
want of adaptability to their surroundings is
still to be noted amongst a large proportion
of English tourists.
The traveller should begin by reconciling her-
self to the fact that it is impossible for her to
have everytliing as she has it at home, and she
must make up her mind to conform for the tinie
being with other tastes and other methods of
living. The cooking at foreign hotels and
pensions, for instance, will seemi strange at first ;
but though it is different from what she has
been used to, it is nearly always very good, and
she should not spoil her pleasure and that of
others by grumbUng at it and wishing for some
English dish not on the menu. A gentlewoman,
it is true, would not be likely to err in this
respect, and a gentlewoman at home will almost
invariably be a gentlewoman abroad, but there
is no denying the fact that many women show
a peculiar aggressiveness and intolerance when
travelling which they rarely display when at
home, ilany women also when out of their own
country seem to develop an eccentricity in dress
as marked as it is unusual, for at home their
toilettes will bo irreproachable on all occasions.
Here, again, ia an anomaly which; however inex-
plicable, is nevertheless existent, there being a
number of sinners in this respect.
A woman should always bear in mind that
a large number of foreigners never have an
opportunity of visiting our mother country,
hence the sole idea they have in regard to the
character and appearance of English people
must necessarily bo gathered from their observa-
tion of the manners and habits of the English
tourists and travellers they occasionally come
across ; and it stands to reason if English tra-
vellers are constantly offending against good
manners and good taste, the impression formed
of the EngUsh in general will be a very erroneous
one. Travellers should always bear this fact
in mind, and by being as circumspect in their
behaviour and - as far as the exigencies of
travelling allow - as careful in their dress as
when at home, they can do much to remove the
bad impression made by the agressive type of
Britisher who so often frequents the continent,
and does his best to earn for English people
generally an unmerited measiu'e of disappro-
bation.
Dress. - The traveller should endeavour to be
neat and well groomed on all occasions. For an
itinerary toiu" her dress will have to be strictly
limited to what is most useful. A neat serge
or tweed coat-and-skirt costume for travelling
is the first essential. With this a becoming
small hat and a trim blouse should be worn.
Boots should be clean and well polished and
gloves neat and tidy. Plenty of lingerie blouses,
an extra pair of boots, a pair of indoor shoes, the
necessary underlinen and a dressing-gown should
be packed away in the suit -case, and for evenings
at the hotel or pension one of those dainty little
crepe de chine or voile princess dresses which
would seem to have been designed mainly with
the needs of the traveller in view, so little room
do they take up. A dress of this kind may be
rolled up tightly without becoming creased in
any way if care is taken first to adjast the folds.
The boots should have good thick soles, as there
is nothing more tiring than constant walking
about in thin shoes. Strong comfortable boots
are especially essential for walking tours, and,
needless to say, short skirts should be worn.
When making a stay at a fashionable resort,
such as Ostend or Trouvillo, one will reqviire to
be smartly dressed, and an ample supply of
frocks for all occasions will be necessary.
It is always advisable when travelling abroad
to be prepared for great differences of tempera-
ture within a comparatively small area. A
change of winter underclothing and a warm coat
are often very welcome even during the sammer
months.
Combined Coupon Tickets. - By means of the
" Rundreise " or combined ticket system, the
tourist may effect a reduction of from 20 to 30
per cent, on her fares. This system prevails in
Belgium, Holland, Germany, Austria, the Balkan
States, Turkey, Switzerland, Denmark, Norway,
Sweden, Franco, Italy, and Sicily, and full
particulars in regard to it may be obtained from
any of Messrs. Cook's offices, or from the offices
of the Belgian State Railways, 53 Gracechurch
Street, London, E.G. These tickets give the
passenger the right to stop not only at the
principal stations on many lines of the countries
through which she is travelling, but at any out-
of-the-way place. In the latter case it is usually
necessary to get the coupon for that section
stamped by the stationmaster immediately
HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL
503
after leaving the train. In Switzerland and
Germany, however, the passenger is allowed to
break the journey at any place without this
formality. She has perfect freedom in planning
out her own itinerary, subject to certain regula-
tions in regard to time and distances. Only
hand luggage is allowed free to travellers using
Rundreise tickets.
Season Tickets available for five and fifteen
days, which enable the holder to travel as often
as she hkes all over Belgium in every direction
on all the Belgian railway lines (2890 miles in
extent) are issued in England at the Belgian Mail
Packet Booking Office, 53 Gracechurch Street,
72 Regent Street, London, and at all Belgian
stations at 11*75 francs (9s. 5d. =$2'35) 3rd class,
20-50 francs (16s. 5d.=$4-10) 2nd class; 30-75
francs (24s. 7d. = $6-15) 1st class, compartment
reserved or saloon cars.
An unmounted photograph of the holder,
measuring one and a half inches square, must
be suppUed to be affixed to the ticket. About
a quarter of an hour's notice should be given
to obtain the season tickets.
Similar season tickets available fifteen days
are issued at double the above prices.
In Switzierland season tickets are issued which
are available over most of the principal railways ;
they do not, however, include all the mountain
railways, although in some cases reductions are
allowed on the latter to holders of these tickets.
They may be obtained in London from the
General Agent of the Swiss Federal Railways,
11b Regent Street, from the L.B. & S.C.
Railway Continontt.' Traffic Manager's Office,
London Bridge, and the Great Eastern Railway
Continental Traffic Manager's Office, Liverpool
Street. The fare for fifteen days is £3, 8s. 1st
class, £2, 8s. 2nd class, and £1, 16s. 3rd class.
The Swiss Federal Railways also give a list of
local diligence rates over the passes, and of
addresses of the best hotels.
Hotels and Pensions. - It is always better to
go to an hotel or pension which has been recom-
mended by friends upon whose judgment you
may rely. Failing this the traveller cannot do
better than expend a shilling upon the little
book " Holiday Resorts," already mentioned.
This contains extensive lists of recommended
addresses of good hotels and pensions with
moderate tariffs in most places abroad, and
should therefore be a great help to the woman
whose expenses must be carefully weighed and
considered.
In the season at fashionable resorts both
hotels and pensions are subject to inflated
prices, the latter being always cheaper than the
former. It is always better to engage rooms
beforehand, and in much frequented places it
is as well to order by wire the daj' before, pre-
paying for a reply as to whether the rooms have
been reserved.
When making a stay of a week or more at an
hotel an arrangement for inclusive " pension "
terms should be made if possible. In most Swiss
hotels " pension " terms can be arranged for
three or four days. When not on " pension
terms," ask for the bill every few days and care-
fully check it. It is always better, if leaving in
the morning, to ask for the bill the eve of your
departure, so that you have time to see if the
charges are correct. Tips, as a general rule,
should not amount to more than 10 per cent, of
the bill for a week's stay at an hotel, being dis-
tributed amongst the chambermaid, concierge,
head waiter, boots, and any one who renders
special service. For a long visit the percentage
would of course be considerably lower. Not
less than one franc to each servant is given for a
short stay.
Tips after long Sea Voyages. - For tips after
long sea voyages, gold for the table steward
and the stewardess is de rigueur. After a
voyage to America or Canada, 10s. at least should
be given to each. For very long voyages, as to
Australia, double the amoxint should be given-
Smaller tips are given to any other of the ser-
vants on board who render special service.
General Hints. - Travellers on the continent
should have at least a sUght practical knowledge
of the language of the country which they visit,
for although Enghsh is spoken and understood
at the chief hotels and pensions and the larger
shops of the principal towns and resorts on the
continenc, porters and cabdrivers show a decided
inclination at times to double their fares for the
benefit of those who show that they are unable
either to understand what is said to them
or make themselves understood. Baedeker's
manual of conversation will be found useful in
assisting the traveller to at least make her wants
known in an intelUgible manner. Failing tliis,
she should have some other handy Uttle guide
to conversation to which she can refer. Tlie
Baedeker Guide Books tc travelhng on the
continent are also of inestimable use to the
traveller who is planning out her own tour.
It is always better, however, when going abroad
for the first time, if totally ignorant of foreign
languages and if unaccompanied by an experi-
enced traveller, to join one of the tours con-
ducted by Cook's or any other tourist agency.
Not only are the whole tours carefully organ-
ised and planned out by experts, the tourist
being saved worry of any kind, but they are con-
ducted at the minimum of expense, the charges
including board and lodging as well as fare.
Particulars of tours can be obtained from any
of Messrs. Cook's offices, and from Dr. Henry
S. Lunn, 5 Endsleigh Gardens, London, N.W.,
Messrs. Dean & Dawson, 17 St. Paul's Church-
yard, London, E.C., and other tourist agents.
(For Luggage Abroad, see p. 505.)
Money. - Tlie traveller abroad should make
herself acquainted witli the coinage of the
country which slie is \-isiting. English money
504
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
can be usually changed by the purser on the
steamer by which she is crossing. It is not
advisable, however, to change too much money,
because in most places English gold is readily
accepted, the change (if any) being given in the
foreign currency. It is only with the small coin
that difficulty will bo experienced. The woman,
for instance, who L'i taking a short trip in France
or Belgium with £10 for expenses will only require
to change £1 of this into small French money
for the needs of the journey, tips to porters,
cab fares, &c. For the rest she can obtain
change as she requires it at either her hotel or
pension or at any shop where she wishes to effect
a purchase. She should be careful to ascertain,
however, that the change is correct. The change
in French money for £1, for instance, would
be 25 and not 20 francs, and sometimes advan-
tage is taken of the ignorant in this respect (see
Foreign Money Rates). For wealthy people
who allow themselves unUmited money during
their holidays, the Circular Note System is of
the utmost convenience (see p. 368).
Foreign Travel as an Educator. - Besides the
general broadening of the rriental horizon,
foreign travel offers a pleasant and rapid method
of acquiring a knowledge of other tongues,
especially if a lengthened stay can be made.
This is now so generally recognised by parents
that many send their children abroad for the
latter years of school life. Within the last few
years large numbers of boys and girls have been
sent to families abroad, their parents in England
receiving in exchange a child to be taught
English. This custom has become so popular
that an agency has been opened in Paris to
negotiate suitable exchanges. All the necessary
information in regard to this may be obtained
from Monsieur Toni Matthieu, Echange Inter-
nationale, 36 Boulevard Majenta, Paris.
In addition to this, travelling scholarships
are offered by various educational bodies which
entitle the holder to a sum of money to be spent
on a visit abroad. The advantages of their
studying a foreign language are obvious. Not
only does this system offer opportunities for
acquiring a good accent and ease of expression,
but the more intimate and personal knowl'-dge
gained by admission into a cultured house open
to the student the doors of acquaintance with
the true spirit of the language and its literature.
Should the parents not be able to take their
children, or should no suitable escort be found,
they may safely be sent alone if notice is given
to one of the societies formed for helping and
pre *yecting young travellers. These societies have
a very complete organisation throughout Europe,
and can arrange for the traveller to be met at the
different points and placed in the right train to
continue her Journey, met at the final destina-
tion, and seen into safe hands. The service is
generally rendered gratuitously, and is absolutely
without distinction of class, creed or nationality.
Among such societies may be mentioned the
pioneer of the movement. Lea Amies de la
Jeune Fille. Similar work is also done by
the Catholic International Association for
tlie Protection of Girls, the " Station Work "
department of the National Vigilance Associa-
tion and Guild of Service for Women, and
the Jewish Association of Protection. All these
work in harmony, and particulars can be obtained
on application to The Secretary, National
Vigilance Association, St. Mary's Chambers,
161a Strand, London.
LUGGAGE
What luggage to take and what not to take
always forms a vexed question with the
holiday-maker. The great maxim to be ob-
served is to take only as much as is absolutely
necessary, but individual needs vary so largely
that this maxim is capable of a somewhat
elastic interpretation. We often read in the
papers of some enterprising American lady who
has travelled round the world with no more
extensive wardrobe than the tweed dress she
was wearing and a small handbag containing
linen and toilet accessories. Though we may
wonder at and even admire her enterprise, few
of us would be tempted to go and do likewise.
An English woman when travelling always likes
to feel fresh and natty, and this cannot be
accomplished unless she has garments with her
suitable for all occasions.
It is in the quality of her luggage more often
than in its quantity that a woman is apt to err.
Many will travel with a trunk so heavy and un-
wieldy as to be a positive nuisance, and not all
the grumbling of porters and cabmen, nor the
damage done to walls in carrying the box up and
down stairs, will make them see the error of their
ways. Then, again, some women are never happy
unless, in addition to their ordinary luggage, they
are encumbered with a number of cardboard
hat-boxes, paper parcels, string bags, and other
paraphernaUa, some portion or other of which
they invariabty manage to lose.
With proper luggage there is no need to put up
with the nuisance of worrying about the safety
of innumerable small packages. Modern luggage
is specially constructed with regard to con-
venience, and the old - fashioned trunk which,
in spite of its unwieldiness, was remarkable for
its lack of efficient accommodation for clothes
and hats, is happily a thing of the past.
The up-to-date trunk is light and compact.
In the better kinds a number of adjustable little
compartments are to be found in the upper tray,
with grooves which enable the packer to make
the divisions larger or smaller as required. Flat
trunks may be obtained which hold dresses full
length, but which are so light that their size
does not form any drawback. These are speci-
ally suitable for long voyages. On the latter
HOLIDAYS AND TRAVEL
505
it should always be remembered to have a flat
cabin trunk containing the clothing and every-
thing needed on board ship. This can easily be
kept in the cabin, whilst all the other luggage
must be stored in the hold. Care must be taken
that the cabin trunk holds everything that is
Ukely to be needed, and the traveller, before
packing; should make a careful list of her require-
ments, seeing that each article on the list is placed
in her trunk. On the whole the flat trunks are
always more convenient than the dome-shaped
boxes for any kind of traveUingj as they can
easily be put out of the way under a bed if need
be when in rooms or hotels.
Neat leather or canvas hat-boxes may now be
obtained fitted with cushions at the top, bottom,
and sides upon which to pin the hats. There
is little fear of millinery becoming spoiled or
crushed when packed in one of these, and the
woman who hkes to have plenty of variety in
her headgear should never travel without one.
For a fortnight's trip a roomy dress-basket and
a hat-box will be aU the luggage needed. Dress-
ing-cases are also very useful in travelling, but it
is not every woman who is fortunate enough to
possess one.
When travelling with a large family of chil-
dren the naaximi " as Uttle luggage as possible "
will not apply. There are so many things neces-
sary for the comfort of the youngsters - special
cooking appliances, occasionally a special bed
or cot, perambulators, mailcarts, and other imi-
portant essentials. As, however, the cliildren's
holiday is rarely a migratory tour, but merely
a certain number of we.ks' sojoiorn at one place,
the amount of luggage necessary should not
form a great drawback. In these days of
cheap " luggage in advance " rates much of the
expenditure upon cabs may be curtailed, or a
family omnibus may be hired from home to the
station at a comparatively small cost, wliilst
at most seaside places outside porters deliver
the luggage from the station to one's rooms at
a small charge per package. In regard to the
children's luggage it is more than ever essential
to draw up a list of all the articles that will be
required, and to take care when paeldng that
nothing is forgotten.
Luggage on the Continent. - In the case of
travelling on the continent, it is a mistake to
carry an amount of hand luggage. This is
always a nuisance. In the fii-st place, it is sub-
ject to rigorous inspection by the Customs upon
arrival, and the contents are apt to be well
tumbled about during the process of inspec-
tion, more especially when, as is usually the case,
there are hundreds of people awaiting their turn
for their baggage to bo examined. The same
applies to landing in England from the continent
- ^too much luggage should certainly be avoided ;
it is best to limit the baggage to one fair-sized
yet very light trunk which oan be registered
through to its destination. There is, indeed, a
great advantage in the continental system of
registration, for once the traveller has taken her
registration receipt she will not need to worrj'
about her baggage beyond claiming it at the
" Customs," being present when it is examined.
It may be further remarked that the Customs
examination in many countries on the continent
is very lenient where registered luggage is con-
cerned. In most cases the mere formality of
opening the box is proceeded with, the traveller
being asked if she has anything to declare - the
box being closed again when she repHes in the
negative.
The dutiable articles in most places on the
continent are tobacco, tea, spirits, soap, new
clothes, confectionery, lace. A passenger's
allowance of very small quantities of dutiable
articles, however, is made in most cases. The
registration of luggage may be effected on most
of the railway systems throughout the different
countries.
The maxim " no hand baggage " cannot be
applied, however, to all circumstances. In
regard to itinerary tours which comprise constant
railway travelling from one place to another
with "Rundreise '' tickets (see p. 502), or in
countries where no free allowance of luggage
is made upon the railwaj'^s, it is wiser to have
only luggage which may be taken in the railway
carriage, as this, of course, is free. This might
consist of a flat suit -case wliich can easily be put
away under the seat and a Ught hat-box. A
heterogeneous collection of small parcels should
always be avoided.
Luggage may be sent in advance from England
to places where it is intended to make a long
stay by means of the Continental Daily Parcels'
Express, who have their offices at 53 Grace-
chiu-ch Street, London, E.C.. 72 Regent Street,
London, W., and at Dover. Tliis company under-
takes the forwarding of passengers' luggage to
any part of the continent by " Grande Vitesse,"
or mail service, at very moderate charges. A
large number of tourists will find it a convenience
to send their heavier luggage in advance in this
way.
Wlien the summer holiday is to be spent in
such pastimes as mountaineering, walking tours,
in countries like Switzerland, the tourist will
have to rely upon the ever -useful knapsack for
immediate requirements, sending on her luggage
in advance to each place at which she is to find
a pied-d-terre. Tlie needs of travellers in this
respect are met in Switzerland by the system
of posting unaccompanied luggage. Not more
than 44 libs, can be sent, and the charge is 7d. per
22 lbs. On the mountain routes the travelling
is made by means of " diligences " (coaches).
In connection with these, 33 lbs. of free luggage
is allowed and 22 lbs. on the passes.
In regard to bicycles a deposit of from five per
cent, and upwards is in many cases levied upon
cycles taken into a country, the deposit being
50G
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
returnable when the passenger leaves. It is
important, therefore, that she keep her receipt
carefully, for she must produce tliis before the
deposit is returned. In France a permit for
three months must bo obtained. Tliis will cost
three francs, but if a longer stay is made the
cycle tax of six francs will have to be paid. On
most railways throughout the continent cycles
are charged as ordinary luggage.
Packing a Trunk. - There is an art in packing
a trunk which comparatively few women have
meistored. This art may be defined as the
ability to pack the largest number of articles
without creasing or spoiling them in any way
within the leeist possible compass. A good
packer will manage to pack away in one trunk
the same quantity of clothing that an indifferent
packer would find it difficult to get into two.
The first important thing to remember is
that all heavy articles, such as boots, shoes,
books, &c., should be placed at the bottom of
the box. They should be packed quite tightly
together, and any empty corners filled up with
stockings and other small woollen articles.
Sponge-bags and toilet accessories should be
also placed in the bottom layer if there is no
separate dressing-bag for these.
When the bottom of the trunk has been packed
quite neatly and tidily, forming as flat a layer as
possible, the underlinen, neatly folded, should be
placed over it to form the next layer. Over
this should be placed coat -and -skirt costumesand
dresses. They should be folded very carefully,
with sheets of tissue paper between the folds, and
rolls of tissue paper should also be inserted
in the sleeves. At the top of the trunk should
be placed the light silk dresses and blouses
and evening gowns. These should be carefully
folded and the sleeves stuffed with tissue paper.
Hats should always be packed in a separate box
if possible. It is impossible to pack millinery
properly in an ordinary trunk, and indeed the
headgear of the present-day faishionable dimen-
sions can rarely be made to repose in safety on
the upper tray of even a fair-sized dress-basket.
One or two small or moderate -sized hats may,
however, be placed on the top of the latter
if needs must, but they should be carefully
pinned with hat-pins to the canvas of the tray,
and any bows or similar trimmings should be
stuffed out with tissue paper to prevent them
becoming crushed.
Hand-niirrors will seldom get smashed if
placed within the folds of woollen garments.
The same applies to any breakable articles.
Bottles containing liquid of any kind should bo
avoided if possible when travelling, but if it is
necessary that these be taken, they should be
well rolled up in cotton wool and afterwards
packed in neat little paper parcels. One or two
extra waterproof sponge-bags into which they
can be placed will also be found useful. These
bottles should not be placed near any of the
better articles of clothing in case of accident,
although, if carefully packed, breakages seldom
occur. Before packing care should be taken to
see that all stoppers are firmly screwed down and
that the bottles axe tightly corked, for should
the cork or stopper come out, a certain amount
of damage to clothing must inevitably result in
spite of all precautions in the way of cotton-
wool wrappings. It is always as well to place
the bottles within the folds of an old dark
dressing-gown, and as near the bottom of the
box as possible.
Veils, gloves, lace scarves, all should come upon
the top tray of the trunk. Neat Uttle satin or
silk sachets with the name of the contents em-
broidered thereon are the handiest receptacles
for these.
When packed, the trunk should be well locked
and strapped. Either hanging or adhesive
labels should be used, and on them the address
should be clearly written. Care should be taken
to pull off all old labels, as when these are
allowed to remain in any numbers they are
liable to caiise confusion, especially when
travelling on the continent. It is a good plan
to have two labels. The porters have enonnous
quantities of luggage to deal with in a given
time, and the labels often suffer from rough
handling.
When packing for a trip on the continent it
will be found necessary to include many small
articles which would not be necessary when
travelling at home. A spirit-lamp and kettle
will be found most useful. In somo pensions
a sufficient supply of hot water may not always
be available for washing purposes, though of
course this does not apply to the large hotels.
Then, again, one often likes to indulge in the "cup
that cheers " either en route on the train
journeys between various places, or in the early
morning. Care must be taken, however, not
to take more than the small quantity allowed
by the Customs Regulations of the different
countries. Soap, candles, matches, tapes, but-
tons, scissors, shoe-laces, ssifcty-pins, needles,
and cotton all should be available - to say
nothing of the ever -useful corkscrew. If one is
accustomed to use special toilet preparations in
the way of face powders, &c., a supply of these
should also be included. It is a mistake, however,
to take a number of articles if you are going to a
place where they can easily be proctired, and at
which you intend to make a more or less pro-
longed stay. It is for the itinerary tour in
particular that strict attention in regard to all
the little accessories that make for comfort is
needed.
HOME PETS
There is scarcely a British home, from the mansion of the rich to the cottage of the poor, wliich
does not boast of some pet, if it be only the humble domestic cat. The care of pets is a problem,
therefore, which must present itself sooner or later to the average housewife. Dumb animals are
often sadly neglected, not always wilUngly it is true, but most often from sheer ignorance of the
best way to treat them both in illness and in health. The following notes upon the characteristics
of our household pets with directions in regard to their diet and general hygiene, together with hints
as to the best methods of treating the common ailments to which they are subject, are intended to
give practical guidance to the housewife in all the most important problems in regard to the care
and mauagement of her pets with which from time to time she may be called upon to deal.
DOGS
The dog is the most companionable as well as
the most faithful of our pets, and, properly
trained, he may also become a most useful
member of the household.
In purchasing a dog it should be remembered
that some breeds are eminently suited for a
hardy outdoor life, and for tliis reason would
not thrive as household dogs in a town ; on the
other hand, others make admirable indoor pets,
provided of course that they have a certain
amount of good daily exercise out of doors.
" Lap dogs " - a design .tion wliich include all
the tiny breeds of dogs which form ladies' pots
- do not require so much exercise, although they
are all the better for it.
Guard Dogs. - Some dogs are especially noted
for their qualities as guardians of their master's
house and property. Chief amongst these are
the Mastiff, Bulldog, Great Dane, Retriever, New-
foundland, and Airedale Terrier. The Mastiff,
Great Dane, and Newfoundland are best kept
out of doors on account of their size, and for
this reason are more suitable for country than
for town life. The Bulldog makes a very good
indoor dog. Of the smaller dogs. Fox Terriers,
Irish Terriers, Skye Terriers, and Bull Terriers
make splendid guard dogs.
Companionable Dogs. - The St. Bernard is a
most faitMul companion and very gentle with
children. By reason of his size this dog should
also be kept out of doors. The Collie is most
companionable and sagacious. To keep in
"health it requires a very large amount of exercise,
.tnd is therefore best kept in the country. The
Newfoundland is also companionable and fond
of children. Deerhounds, Bloodhounds, Setters,
Sheep Dogs are also faitliful companions. They
are best suited to an outdoor life.
Dogs to keep Indoors in Town. - In choosing
a house dog for town it should be remembered
that the small short-haired varieties are best
on account of the less trouble entailed in keeping
them clean. Long-haired dogs bring in mud
from the street on their coats, and will often roll
on the carpets and furniture in their attempt
to get rid of it. Few people will take the trouble
to brush the dog as he comes in from liis walk,
j^et this should always be done if he has been in
muddy or dusty roads.
The most useful dog for indoor town-life is
undoubtedly the Fox Terrier. Sagacious, easily
taught, faithfxil and companionable, he makes
as a rule a good watch-dog, and liis short coat is
easily kept clean. Tlie Irish Terrier is also a
most useful dog for town, although he requires
careful training on account of his fighting
propensities. As has been said before, the Bull-
dog makes a very good indoor dog and guardian
of the house. Skye Terriers and Aberdeen
Terriers make capital Uttle house dogs, only the
coat of a Skyo Terrier is rather a drawback as it
requires very careful attention in regard to brush-
ing, combing, and grooming generally. The
Basset Hounds and Dachshimda are also excel-
lent little indoor doga. Spaniels are generally
all-round useful dogs, and the Poodle is one of
the most sagacious and teachable of our peta.
Pet Dogs. - Pugs, Pekingese, Pomeranians,
Griffins, Yorkshire Terriers, King Charles
Spaniels, Italian Greyhounds, Maltese Terriers
are the principal dogs which rank as ladies' pets.
These as a rule are pampered httle individuals,
accompanying their mistress in her drives and
reclining on silken cushions in her boudoir and
drawing-room, yet when properly trained and
not allowed to become fractious and snappy
(a result as a rule of over-feeding) they make
charming little companions, with the most
ingratiating ways.
Management of Dogs. - It must be remembered
that the good qualities of a dog are enhanced by
careful training and liis faults cured in the same
507
508
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
way. It is always better for this reason to rear
our peta from puppyhood if we would obtain the
most satisfactory results.
Strict cleanliness and judicious feeding are
the two great essentials in the management of
dogs. Dogs kppt in the house should be wsished
once a fortnight if possible in summer, and once a
month in winter. Outdoor dogs do not require
such frequent washing. Plenty of warm water
and good carbolic soap should be used when
bathing a dog ; the animal should be well im-
mersed and the soap well rubbed over his coat,
thoroughly rinsed off, and, last but not least, he
should be well dried. All dogs should be care-
fully groomed daily. This is most essential with
the long-haired varieties, such as Collies, Skye
Terriers, &c. For these a strong broad-toothed
dog-comb should be used as well as a brush.
Dog-Comb.
Dog- Brush.
Regular and careful grooming often docs awaj'
with the necessity of such frequent bathing as
would otherwise be needed.
Vermin. - If cleanliness in the way of washing
and grooming is not strictly attended to, the
anirnal will often be pestered with vermin as a
result. Carbolic soap should be used in washing
dogs which are afflicted in this manner. In very
bad oases the dog should be rubbed all over with
oil a few hours before the tub is given. This
should be allowed to remain on until washed off
in the tub.
The Kennel. - When a dog is kept in a kennel,
he should Ix^ given fresh straw every week, and
this straw should be shaken and turned over
Dog-Eennel.
every day and all soiled straw removed. In
summer a piece of matting can be used instead
of straw. Do not keep him chained up for a
long time at a stretch if it can possibly be avoided.
A dog should always have plenty of exercise ;
besides, the kennel will soon get foul if he is
chained up all day.
Needless to say, the kennel must be kept
clean, being washed out at frequent intervals.
A dog-kennel should always bo as roomy as
possible, and it should never be allowed to rest
right on the ground, on account of the danger
of the dog catching cold from damp. The
door of the kennel should, if possible, be at the
side. Wlien it is in the front the animal cannot
get away fi'om the rain and snow which in storm j'
weather blows through the opening. With the
door at the side he can ciu"l up in the corner
away from the entrance, and so avoid it. For
indoor dogs an old wine-case filled -with straw
makes an excellent bed. The tiny pets should
be provided with little dog -baskets.
Feeding. - Many mistakes in regard to feeding
are made by the average dog-owner ; it is either
a case of " killing with kindness " or semi-
starvation tlirough unsmtable food. The mis-
take first mentioned is the one most often com-
mitted, more especially in regard to the strictly
house pets. Tit -bits of various kinds are given
to them at all hours of the day, to say nothing of
sugar, the excessive eating of which is most
injurious. Pet dogs should never be allowed
in the room at meal -time, particularly when they
are versed in the art of " begging " or other
similar blandishments, which make it ht.rd to
refuse them the tit-bits they covet. A dog
should not be fed between meals. Two good
meals a day are ample for most of our canine pets.
To lap dogs, however, three smaller meals should
bo given daily. These may consist of meat, vege-
tables, and Spratt's dog biscuits, with a regular
supply of bones. The latter are very good for
the dog's teeth. Only large bones should be
given - never bones of poultry or game. These
are apt to injure a dog's stomach, as they are
often swallowed whole. Meat should only be
given at the chief meal. Animals which have
little exercise should not be given large quantities
of meat ; it is a mistake, however, to exclude
it altogether from a dog's diet. The biscuits
can be given dry or soaked. They should
always be broken up. The diet should be
varied as much as possible - meat sc-aps from
the table with vegetables make a good and
suitable meal wliere one or two indoor dogs
are kept, but the amount of meat should be
regulated by the amount of exercise they get.
Never allow food to bo left lying about in
the vessels ; at meal times give only what is
sufficient. Plenty of drinking water must
always be at hand, and the drinking vessel must
be kept scrupulously clean. Drinking-troughs
should not be stood out in the sun in hot
weather ; the water should be kept in as cool
a place as possible.
Above all things be guarded against the
mistake of killing your pet with kindness, as
is so often the case with strictly pet dogs,
such as Pugs, Pomeranians, &c. Tlie poor
little animals have to pay in the long run for
the indiscriminate pampering they receive at
HOME PETS
509
the hands of their mistresses. Their httle
lives axe not only rendered miserable by ever-
recurring disease, but in most oases they are
materially shortened.
Exercise. - Never forget to let your pets have
suflScient exercise. To keep them indoors all
day long falls Uttle short of actual cruelty. If
you would have them keep strong and healthy,
let them be your companions in your daily walks ;
remember that exercise is almost as necessary
to them as food. The dog should be trained
early to follow well out of doors - ^this is all the
more necessary in regard to dogs kept in towns -
for the very real dangers of traffic are always
present, and it is not safe to take a dog out in the
crowded streets if he does not follow well or
answer to his mistress's call.
When qmte young a dog should always be
taken out on a lead. All dogs when out of doors
Collar for Long-haired Dog.
must wesj collars with the name and address
of their owner inscribed thereon. The collars
of long-haired dogs should be rounded in order
to preserve their fur. When sending puppies or
small dogs away long distances by train they
Dog's Travelling-Basket.
should be placed in a basket with plenty of room
for ventilation allowed. Special baskets are sold
for the purpose at moderate prices.
Puppies. - Puppies require very careful tending
[ if that great ill of puppyhood, " distemper,"
If is to bo avoided. A puppy of a few weeks old
i when taken from the care of its mother should
I be fed at least six times a day. The last meal
\ should be given to it late at night ; after a late
, meal he is more likely to rest and refrain from
( disturbing the slumbers of the household by his
;' yelping. Between six and eight weeks of age
is the usual time for weaning puppies.
Milk thickened with meal is the best food
after weaning. Later Spratt's puppy cakes
soaked in milk may be added. The meals
should be decreased as the puppy gets older,
and at five months three meals daily will be
sufficient. When he is teething, bones and a very
little meat should be added to his diet. Puppies
at this time are apt to get destructive, tearing
up whatever they come across. For this reason
it is well to supply them with plenty of bones to
gnaw at, and old boots, shoes, balls, anything
which they can tear up and destroy at their
wiU.
Care of the Mother. - The period of gestation
is between eight and nine weeks, and during this
time the animal should be well fed, and a small
dose of olive oil occasionally administered. When
the time approaches for the puppies to be bom,
a bed should be provided for her in some quiet,
secluded place, which is warm, airy, and free
from draught. Tlie bed should consist of a
roomy box or basket into which plenty of clean
straw has been placed. Beyond the preparation
of the bed, the animal can in most cases be left
quite alone until the puppies are born. It is
as well, however, especially in the case of a
valuable dog, to arrange for the attendance of
a skilled veterinary surgeon in the event of
complications arising. After the puppies are
born, fresh straw should be placed in the bos,
and the mother should be coaxed to take a little
warm beef -tea. Then she should be left luidis-
turbed as much as possible for a few hours. She
should have three good meals a day while nursing,
consisting of easily digestible food and a little
raw meat at first.
Training Dogs. - A puppy should be trained
early in the ways of obedience and cleanliness.
If he contracts bad habits in his early life and
these are left unchecked, it will become increas-
ingly difficult to cure him as he grows older. He
should be kept clean and given frequent baths,
care being always taken to thoroughh' dry him
afterwards. He should be supplied with a nice
warm bed and kept as free as possible from
draughts. Violence and impatience ai'e quite
out of place in the training of puppies. By
patience, firmness, and perseverance on the part
of the owner a puppy will soon get to know who is
master ; only firmness and perseverance on the
part of the master or mistress are essential in
order to achieve the desired result. The Uttle
creature must be first made to understand what
is wanted and then made to do it. A too liberal
use of the whip is inadvisable. A well-known
authority on dogs has said that one good beating,
if thoroughly deserved, will do good, inasmuch
as it will not be forgotten by the little culprit,
but to beat the dog on the smallest pro\'ocation
will spoil his temper and often make him snappy
and then ferocious in time. Such a method of
training can only be productive of harm. UTiilst
some dogs are very fond of going into the water
after stones, &c., others are afraid to do so. In
these circumstances they should never be thrown
in, as this will only increase their fear in this
direction. Very often a dog may be persuaded to
take to the water by seeing other dogs go in,
510
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
more especisdly if these dogs are his daily com-
pjmions ; but be should never be forced to do so.
Ailments. - A dog which is well housed, suitably
fed, and well cared for hygienically should always
keep healthy. There are, however, certain ail-
ments to which our canine pets are subject
which will sometimes make their appearance in
the best -regulated kennels. Unless the ailment
is of a strictly minor order it is always better to
at once call in a quaUfied vet. We owe it to our
faithful companions and pets that they should
have the best attention in sickness. It is as
well, however, to be able to recognise the
symptoms of the various canine ailments, so
that the sufferers may be properly treated in the
way of housing, feeding, warmth, &c. We shall
therefore describe the symptoms of the chief
ailments to which dogs are liable, together with
the particular management and attention re-
quired to effect a speedy cure.
Administering Medicine. - Small dogs can be
taken on the knee of the person who is ad-
ministering the dose ; very large dogs, such as
Mastiffs, usually require a man to handle them.
Sometimes the pills or medicine may be mixed
with food. When giving a pill, see that it is
placed well on the back of the animal's tongue,
closing its mouth quickly until the pill is
swallowed.
Canlcer. - This appears in the form of acute
inflammation of the ear. The dog will be seen
to hold its head on one side as if in pain and to
keep on scratching his ear. He must be pre-
vented from doing this as much as possible, as
the scratching will only increase the inflamma-
tion. The ear should be regularly treated with
a good antiseptic solution. If taken in time,
this treatment will often be sufficient to ward
off a bad attack. Severe cases require special
treatment, and a veterinary surgeon should at
once be consulted. Very often ear inflammation
occurs through accumulation of dust and dirt
inside the ears of the dog, which he endeavours
to dislodge by scratching. Those who have
the welfare of their pets at heart can prevent
this state of affairs by gently wiping the
inside of the ear of the animal with a piece of
soft rag, thus freeing it from all dust and dirt,
whenever it is seen to scratch its ear or to bo
suffering from undue irritation.
Distemper. - Some people think that it is
necessary for all dogs to have distemper. Tliis
is quite a fallacy. If a dog is well housed and
kept free from all source of infection, it will
seldom have it. Distemper is a most infectious
disease and can be contracted from other animals
or infected sources, such as bedding, &c.
Symptoms. - It is some time before the
symptoms make their appearance, all that is
noticeable at first being the fact that the animal
is not well. The symptoms are similar to those
of a cold - the appetite is poor, a watery discharge
comes from nose and eyes, there is a rapid rise
of temperature, the discharge from the eyes
increases to such an extent that the eyelids
often become almost glued together. In all bad
cases of distemper it is best to seek the advice
of an experienced veterinary surgeon, as many
severe complications often ensue.
The patient should at once be isolated and
kept in warm and comfortable surroundings.
Very careful feeding upon light nourishing food
is necessary : the diet should include plenty of
milk and beef-tea. All the dog'c surroundings
should be thoroughly disinfected. Too much
emphasis cannot be laid upon tho necessity for
cleanhness and warmth.
Eczema. - Eczema is often found in over-fed
pets, more especially in older dogs. The skin
eruption appears most often under the thighs and
about the ears and back of the animal. Intense
irritation is set up which is accelerated by the
continual scratching, and painful sores often
result. Careful dieting and regular exercise are
necessary. The sores should be treated with
boracic ointment. The animal should be kept
very clean, and a tonic should be prescribed
by a veterinary surgeon to improve the general
condition of its health.
Fits. - These occur most frequently in puppies,
and may be very slight, consisting merely of
convulsive movements of the muscles, or else
they may take the form of severe convulsions,
with foaming at the mouth, rolling eyeballs, and
all the other usual accompanying severe symp-
toms. Nothing can be done while the attack
lasts. Dogs subject to fits should be kept on
a very light diet, and aperient medicine should
be regularly administered. Sometimes after an
attack a dog will rush away at a tremendous
speed foaming at the mouth, having altogether
the appearance of a mad dog. Ho will hide
himself and not return till the attack has quite
passed over. This after-effect of an epileptic
seizure may easily be mistaken for rabies, so
in order to avoid the disastrous consequences of
such a mistaken impression on the part of a
stranger it is as well to tie him up until he has
altogether recovered.
Hydrophobia. - As has been already pointed
out, foaming at tho mouth must not be taken to
indicate hydrophobia. This dread disetise has
been stamped out in England, and it is very
seldom that a case of hydrophobia is heard of.
The surest indication of the disease is a com-
plete change in the disposition of the animal.
If, for instance, a good-tempered dog becomes
suddenly snappy, ferocious or irritable, and it
seems to frequently rub the sides of his mouth
with his paw as if to dislodge something from it,
it should be looked upon with suspicion, and
kept tied up until it can be ascertained if there
is any danger of its being attacked by this
disease.
Mange is a highly contagious skin disease
caused by an animal parasite. Sometimes the
HOME PETS
511
parasite takes up its abode on the surface of the
skin. In this case a number of small red spots
appear which form into sores, the hair falls off
in quantities, and an unpleasant odour emanates
from the skin. When the disease assumes this
form it is known as sarcoptic mange. In
follicular mange the parasite is to bo found in
the hair folUcle. Though this form of mange
is not so contagious as the sarcoptic form, it is
more difficult to cure. Expert veterinary advice
should at once be sought when either form of
mange makes its appearance. The dog should
be at once isolated. Give it a thorough bath and
then apply the dressing prescribed to the entire
surface of the animal's skin. This is usually
composed of sulphur and slaked lime, or sulphur
and train oil, the proportion of sulphur used
being usually double that of the other ingredient.
Allow the dressing to remain on for a few days,
then wash it off. If necessary, the process
should be repeated. In most cases of sarcoptic
mange the destruction of the parasite will be
effected after two or three applications of the
dressing. The treatment for follicular mange
is much more protracted, and the animal should
always be sent away to the care of a veterinary
surgeon until the cure is effected.
Rheumatism most frequently occurs in old
dogs. It is sometimes brought on by confinement
in damp and draughty kennels or sleeping on
damp bedding, but most often by exposure to
wet and cold. Most often it takes a chronic
form, and is manifested in extreme stiffness of
the joints, the animal having difficulty in
walking. There are intervals of great pain
and considerable stiffness and lameness, whilst
at other times the dog will appear to be quite
well. Sometimes the attacks are exceptionally
severe. The affected parts should be carefully
massaged with some good liniment every day,
the dog should be given a warm and com-
fortable bed, and doses of iodide of potassium
\vith salicylate of soda should be regularly
administered.
St. Vitus' Dance. - This disease takes a some-
what similar form to that which it displays in
human beings, its presence being indicated by
the same twitching of the muscles. Warmth
and careful dieting are essential. The patient
should be prescribed for by a veterinary surgeon,
and medicine regularly administered.
Worms. - A large number of dogs suffer from
these internal parasites, as they often pick vip
the eggs of the various worms with their food
and water Tape -worms are the most frequently
prevalent, although they are also infested with
round -worms in several cases.
Treatment for Tape -Worms. - ^Tho infested
dog should be starved for twenty-four hours,
then a good vermicide should be administered.
^ This treatment should be followed by a dose
[ of castor oil or some other aperient within two
or three hours.
Round-Worms most usually infect puppies,
and fits may often be traced to their presence.
Puppies should be kept without food for three
hours before the vermicide is administered.
No aperient is necessary unless the animal is
an adult.
CATS
The Care of Cats. - Puss is one of the most
common of our domestic pets, and perhaps it
is for this reason that, with the exception of
valuable animals which are bred for show pur-
poses, she is often sadly neglected. Very few
people think of feeding her regularly ; one or
perhaps two saucers of milk will be allowed her
daily, and the rest of her food she is supposed
to make up with mice or anything else she can
forage for herself.
This is quite a wrong way of bringing up our
feline pets : it is simply encouraging them to
thieve whatever dainties they can get hold of.
A cat who is left to hunt for her own food will
not be too particular as to where she finds
a meal, and the larder will suffer in conse-
quence.
Properly trained, a cat will become a most
docile animal, and a respecter of its master's
property, but first of all she must be fed. Milk
is not the sum total of all her requirements ;
she should have at least two good meals daily
in addition to the milk allowance. The scraps
from her master's table, including bits of meat,
gravy, and plenty of green vegetables, will
usually be sufficient ; but the meals must be
given regularly. Bread and milk in the morning,
scraps left from the mid-day meal of the house-
hold, and another meal of scraps at night will be
sufficient, whilst kittens require more frequent
feeding. Cats should always have access to
grass, wliich they eat with relish, as tliis is good
for them medicinally. Drinking water should
also always be within pussy's reach, as milk is
not sufficient to quench her thirst. Cats are
very fond of all kinds of fish, and their fancy in
this direction should be indulged whenever
possible.
The cat, more especially the common short-
haired cat, is really one of the hardiest of our
domestic pets. Persian and other long-haired
cats require more care, and are apt to be more
delicate than the ordinary short-haired \aricties.
A cat can easily be trained in habits of cleanli-
ness, only the training must begin from kitten -
hood. When a cat is kept in a house where
there is no garden, it should always be pro-
vided with a good-sized tin tray covered with
earth ; needless to say, the earth should bo
frequently changed. Cats are said to become
very attached to tlie houses in which tliey are
brought up, and they have often been known
to run away and get lost after a household
removal. An old-fsishioned plan to prevent
512
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
this is still often followed. As soon as pussy
arrives in the new house, butter is rubbed well
over her feet and legs. She will at once begin
to Hck off the butter, and by the time she has
finished this engrossing occupation it is said
that all idea of flight will have been abandoned.
When a cat is expected to have kittens, a
warmly-lined beisket should bo provided for her
in a quiet place. In most cases it will be found
necessary to get rid of some of the kittens, but
one should always be left, as, apart from any
questions of cruelty, it is bad for the mother
to have all the young one^ taken from her.
Different Kinds of Cats. - The most beautiful
of our feline pets are undoubtedly the Persian
and Angora varieties. Of these the blue
Persians are perhaps the handsomest. Then
there are black, white, and tabby Persians all
with the beautiful long soft silky fur which is
the chief characteristic of their breed. Persians
require much more attention than our ordinary
common cat, as they are more deUcate of con-
stitution ; but they are such gentle and beautiful
animals that any extra care expended upon
them is abundantly repaid.
Other varieties of cats are the Manx, the
Siamese, and the Abyssinian. The Manx cat
has no tail, and in the colouring of its coat it
resembles tJie British cat. The Siamese cat has
a light-coloured body and a dark face, tail,
and legs.
The ordinary cat keeps her own coat in good
condition by cleaning it with her tongue. Long-
haired cats, however, should be brushed and
combed daily. During the moulting season this
is more than ever necessary, for when long-
haired cats moult, if they are not strictly attended
to, they will often swallow quantities of hair
which may accumulate in the stomach and kill
them. The danger of this is obviated by regular
and careful grooming.
Common Ailments. - Our ordinary cat is as a
rule very hardy ; nevertheless there are many
ailments with which puss may be overtaken,
and as it is said that some of the diseaises which
attack cats, notably consumption, may be com-
municated to human beings, the reason for the
greatest care is all the more evident.
Colds. - These should not bo neglected, as they
may often develop into more serious ailments.
They are usually indicated by fits of sneezing
and catarrh. Keep the cat thoroughly warm
and out of draughts, and give her warm milk to
drink until the cold has run its course.
Diarrhcea. - Give a tea-spoonful of castor oil,
and keep the patient on a very light diet for a
day or two.
Distemper. - A veterinary surgeon should be
consulted. In addition to administering the
medicine he prescribes, pay great attention to
diet, give plenty of fish and strengthening food.
Isolate the animal, as the disease is infectious.
Pu88 is generally ailing and out of sorts before
the actual symptoms appear. Those usually
manifest themselves in the form of sneezing and
a watery discharge from the eyes and nose.
Fits. - These occur mostfrequentlywith kittens,
especially when teething. Nothing can be done
while the fit lasts, but a dose of castor oil
should bo administered when the convulsions
are over. Be very careful how you lift up a cat
in convulsions, always using a good thick cloth
for the purpose. Place it at onco in its basket
out of harm's way. Get veterinary advice as
to the general health of the little animal.
Other Diseases. - Cats are also liable to con-
sumption, mange, canker of the ear, eczema, and
other diseases. In all cases skilled advice should
at once be sought.
CAGE BIRDS
No more cheery pet can be kept in a house-
hold than a little feathered songster if it is well
tended and its cage kept bright and clean. To
keep a bird and yet be wholly ignorant of the
right method of caring for it is not only folly,
but in manj' cases this ignorance amounts to
actual cruelty. The sum of the requirements
of our pet birds is very small, but they should
be rigidly attended to. Cage birds suffer more
almost than any other pet from the conse-
quences of neglect. Tlieir being kept in con-
finement produces a certain delicacy which is
certainly not one of their characteristics when
enjojang the freedom of their natural state.
Before keeping a canary or any other similar
pet it must be borne in mind that no cage bird
will thrive unless it has a roomy cage, plenty
of good suitable food, and clean fresh water
both for drinking and bathing purposes, and
its cage and surroundings are kept thoroughly
clean. Last but not least, the cage must be
hung in a bright position, where the little songster
may obtain plenty of bright light - not artificial
light be it said ; there is nothing more unhealthy,
for instance, than for a bird to bo placed near
a gas-jet. Care must also be taken that the cage
is well away from all draughts. Gi\on strict
attention to these first essentials and also a
knowledge of the more common ailments to
which our feathered pets are subject, the little
captives will thrive and gladden the household
with their bright song. They will come to
know the hand that tends them, and with a
little patience on the part of their. keeper they
may in time be tamed to almost as great a degree
as any other household pet.
Canaries. - There are many varieties of
canaries, chief amongst which are the Yorkshire,
the Norwich, the Border, the Lizard, the Crest,
the Belgian, and the German. Of the English
birds the Yorkshire Canary is the most graceful,
whilst the best songsters undoubtedly come from
the Harz Mountains in Germany. As a rule, the
latter are inclined to be delicate when brought
HOME PETS
513
over to England : where they are successfully
reared, they undoubtedly make the best songsters.
In regard to singing, amongst the English birds
a mule is often a much better songster than a
pure-bred canary, and m\ile birds are also
usually fairly hardy.
Choosing a Canary. - In choosing a canary,
care should be taken to go to none but a reput-
able bird-dealer. Many bird-dealers will send a
bird to the customer's house on approval for a
day or two in order that she may be able to
judge its singing capacity. A reputable bird-
dealer as n rule will be pleased to help the
purchaser in every way in his power, and will
give much valuable advice. In other cases it
is always better for the purchaser to take some
friend with her who thoroughly imderstands
cage birds and their different points and
qualities.
The prices of canaries vary to a great extent.
As a rule, however, a very good bird may be had
for from 10s. 6d. and upwards, and often 7s. 6d.
will purchase a hardy Uttle songster.
The Cage. - The cage should be as large and
roomy as possible and fiarnished with at least
three perches, one at each side near the food and
water-troughs, and one higher up in the cage.
The bottom of the cage should be fitted with a
sUding tray which can be
tr.ken out, cleaned, and
covered with fresh sand
daily. A little vessel for
water and another one for
food are placed at each
side of the cage ; in most
cages a httle recess is built
out on either side to hold
these vessels with an open-
ing in the cage bars through
which the bird can reach
its food. In others the food
and water vessels are placed
on stands inside the cage.
A cage made of ordinary wood and wire is
very suitable, and can be purchased for from
6s. and upwards. Brass cages are naore
expensive and more ornamental, but they
become dangerous if the bars are not kept
thoroughly dry, on accoimt of the verdigris
which forms upon them. Enamelled cages may
also be had at all prices. In addition to the
food and water vessels, a larger vessel should
also be placed inside the cage in which the bird
can take his daily bath. All vessels must be
kept scrupulously clean and should be washed
out daily. It is always as well to keep two
complete sets of perches, so that wliile one set
is being scrubbed with soap and water, the
other set can be placed in the cage. Perches
should never be returned to the cage before
they are thoroughly dry.
Food and Water. - Canary seed is the chief
food for canEurieii. The seed should be clean
Canary Cage.
and free from grit. The food vessel should
always be cleaned before placing the seed
into it in the morning. A Uttle fresh green
food should also be given daily. Water-cress,
groundsel, lettuce, or chickweed are all appre-
ciated by our pets. In the winter, when green
food is sctu-ce, a small piece of apple should
always be placed between the bars of the cage
for the bird to peck at. By way of a deUcacy
a lump o£ sugar might also be placed between
the ^zc"Z of the cage : this dainty is much
appreciated and .serves to keep the bird's beak
in good condition ; a piece of cuttle bone for the
bird to peck at should also be placed between
the bars.
The bottom of the cage should always be
covered with good rough sand or gravel put in
fresh every morning, to aid the canary in
grinding its food. Fresh water should be given
every morning for drinking and for the bath.
In summer fresh water should be given twice
daily. The water vessels should be kept
scrupulously clean. For the bath an ordinary
saucer or a glass vessel such as is used some-
times for packing potted meat would fulfil all
requirements.
Breeding. - Much interest may be derived
from the home-breeding and rearing of canaries.
Care should be taken to select a hardy pair for
mating, and they should be paired about the
middle of March. It TnM be necessary also to
buy a breeding-cage. This may be procured
BreediDK-Cage.
for a few shillings, and is divided into two com-
partments by a movable wire peirtition. The
cock and the hen are put into separate com-
partments, and £is soon as the cock is seen to
feed the hen through the bars the partition is
withdrawn and the cage thrown into one.
The breeding-cage is fitted with a nest-box,
and nest-building material should be placed
between the bars. As soon as the first egg is
laid it should be taken a\< ay and a little china
egg substituted, and so on with each egg until
three have been laid, when they are returned
to the nest and the hen sits upon them. Hard-
boiled egg mashed up with bread-crumbs should
be given daily during the hatching time, in
addition to the seed, and plenty of good green
food. When the little birds are old enough to
leave the nest they may be placed in a separate
2k
514
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
compartment, where they will be fed by the
cock. In addition to the egg, they may now
have a little crushed seed, wliich they will learn
to pick up for themselves. ^Vhen they can
feed themselves they may be placed in another
cage.
Taming Canaries. - A canary will thrive much
better if it can be so thoroughly tamed that it
can be allowed to fly about the room for a cer-
tain time each day, and may be relied upon to
return to its cage of its own accord. One
person only should undertake the taming of
the little captive in this respect, because it is
necessary that the bird should get to Icnow and
c"u-e for the hand that tends him if any headway
is to be made in the taming process. A great
amount of patience is required to accomplish
this - ^the bird should be taught to perch on its
owner's finger, to feed from her hand. Then
the cage-door can be opened and the bird allowed
its Uberty. At first it will require to be gently
coaxed back to its cage by the display of some
fresh green stuff or other dainty ; but gradually
it will return to it of its own accord. Care, of
course, must be taken that no cats or other pets
liable to harm the little wanderer are allowed
in the room. A cat, if taught very young, may
be trained to become quite friendly with a
canary or any other bird, and to refrain from any
attempt to harm it. Much more antagonistic
pets than cats and canaries have been known
to live together in harmony as a result of careful
early training.
Birds in the Aviary. - Several birds of various
kinds may be kept together in an aviary, and
their rivalling notes will often make a most
Aviary.
delightful harmony. An aN-iaiy must on no
account be overcrowded. If any of the inmates
disagree, it is better to separate the offender
from hia companions and place him in a cage by
himself. Strict cleanliness must, of course, be
the rule.
Other Cage Birds. - Amongst other British
birds which may be kept successfully as pets
are the Bullfinch, Chaffinch, Goldfinch, and
linnet. The Goldfinch is a very fine songster.
and the Bullfinch may be trained to pipe tunes.
The Chaffinch can also be trained as a soiigster,
and the Linnet has a very pleasing note. All
these birds are fed upon the same seeds as
Canaries, and the general treatment is in most
ways the same. The Goldfinch, however, needs
plenty of hemp and maw-seed, and a Bullfinch
needs a more varied diet than the other finches.
In addition to a good seed mixture, he should be
provided regularly with groundsel chickweed, a
little egg occeisionally, and meal-worms and otl"er
insects when they can be procured. Tlie Chaf-
finch also requires insect food now and then.
The Soft Bills. - It is not as a rule advisable
to keep birds which belong to the class known
as " Soft Bills," although as songsters they are
unrivalled. But to enable them to thrive in
captivity they require the utmost experience
and care on the part of those who tend them.
The Nightingale. - The Nightingale takes first
place as a songster. It requires a large and
roomy cage ; the top and back should be of wood
and the bars of osier. Shredded raw meat,
chopped eggs, meal-worms, beetles, ants' eggs
comprise its diet, the principal aim being to
make its food partake as much as possible of the
nature of that which it enjoys in its natural
state.
The Skylark. - The Skylark, if properly tended,
thrives well in captivity. Its cage should be a
roomy one, and should always contain some
green turf. Ants' eggs, meal-worms, meat, and
one of the preparations sold as lark food should
constitute its diet.
The Blackcap is another good songster, and
has to be fed and treated in a very similar manner
to the Nightingale.
The Thrush should have a very large roomy
cage, which should be cleaned every morning.
Its diet should consist of fig-dust moistened
with milk and water to form a paste, shredded
raw meat, worms, and snails. A stone should j
be placed in the cage to enable it to break the t
shells. )
The Blackbird. - The Blackbu-d has a very
soft clear note - the treatment of a blackbird
in captivity is the same as that of a thrush.
Starlings can also be managed in the same 1 1
manner, as can Magpies, Jackdaws, and JayB. t
Largo roomy cages are the first essentials for all/
these birds. It is useless to expect them to'
thrive in an unduly confined spaxje. Strict)
cleanliness and attention to diet is also essential.!
On the whole. Canaries and Finches are the mosti
suitable birds for home pets ; and we would)
advocate that no one undertakes the care ofj
birds of the soft-billed variety without havingj
first served an apprenticeship, as it were, in the
successful rearing of Canaries and Finches.
Parrots. - Of all the foreign birds which are im
ported to our shores parrots are perhaps the most ^
I popular as home pets. These birds possess the
power of imitating human speech and afford
HOME PETS
515
iParrot-Cage.
an abundance of interest and amusement in
this way. When purchebsing a paiTot, care
should be taken that the bird is thoroughly
acclimatised, as there is a great amount of
mortality amongst them. Upon being brought
over here it takes a person of the utmost experi-
ence to tend them and train them in accordance
with the necessary change of diet and conditions.
For this reason never purchase a parrot from any
other but a recognised bird-dealer who can
guarantee that it has spent at least a season in
this country.
The Cage. - A parrot's cage should be large
and roomy. In no case should it be less than
eighteen inches in diameter.
The cage should be furnished
with a swing which must be
of sufficient height for the
bird to be able to staiid
upon the perch without his
head touching the swing.
It is always advantageous
to be able to allow a parrot
to come out of his cage oc-
casionally for exercise if he
is sufficiently tame ; this can
be done with safety if the
flights of one wing are
clipped. Tlie cage should be
placed out of doors on fine simny days, and during
summer it is good for parrots to be put out
occasionally dvu-ing a shower, as many birds
object to bathing themselves. In very dry hot
weather a little water might also be sprayed
upon them once or t\vlce a week, only care
must be taken that they do not catch cold
afterwards. A strong tinned wire cage may be
had for from 12s. 6d.
Feeding. - The chief food for parrots is grain
such as hemp, wheat, oats, Indian corn, sun-
flower seed, and canary seeds, and they also
appreciate dainties such as fruit, green stuf?,
carrot, &c. Banana they are especially fond of.
It is a good plan to give them a small piece of
banana or other similar dainty every day, only
they should not be furnished indiscriminately
with scraps from the table. Parrots are also
very fond of sop food such as bread and
milk, and where, as in some cases, they object
to water the sop will form a good substitute.
Messrs. Spratt sell a very good pai-rot-seed
mixture.
Water. - Parrots require very little water,
but it is a mistake to think that water is harmful
to them. The water-tin should not be left in
the cage all day, but it should be filled with fresh
water and ofl:ered to the bird at least twice daily.
If a water-tin is left all day in the cage of a
parrot who for some mistaken reason has been
deprived of water for any length of time, he will
drink too much of it and so become ill. To this
fact may be ascribed the origin of the idea that
water is harmful to parrots. A bath should be
put ready for the parrot once a week. It should
be taken away, however, if the bird shows no
incUnation to bathe. In warm weather it is a
good plan to stand the cage out in the rain for a
little.
Grit. - Grit of some kind is always necessary.
Spratt's Parrot Grit Mixture is very good. A
piece of cuttlefish bone should also be always
put in the cage.
Feather-Eating.- The objectionable habit of
feather-eating indulged in by some parrots is
caused, according to a well-known authority,
by skin uritation set up by parasites, improper
diet, or want of occupation, more commonly
by the latter. A parrot should be given twigs
to gnaw to keep it well occupied, and it should
not be kept in a lit tie -frequented room, or the
habit will certainly be brought on by ennui, as
the parrot is a sociable bird and hkes plenty of
company. An empty reel of cotton is a favourite
toy with " Polly," and it will sometimes keep
him amused for an hour at a stretch.
Different Kinds of Parrots. - Amongst the chief
varieties of parrots which
are brought to oiu- shores
are the Grey Parrot, the
Rose - breasted Cockatoo,
Blue-fronted Amazon, Ring-
necked Parrakeet, and the
Blue and Yellow Macaw : of
these the Grey Parrot is the
best talker, although the
Blue -fronted Amazon can in
many cases be made to rival
it in this respect. The
Macaws are usually kept
chained, having a parrot-
stand on which to perch, as
they are too big to be kept
in an ordinary cage.
Ailments of Cage Birds. -
If birds are thoroughly well cared for they will
seldom cause much anxiety in regard to health.
If strict attention is paid to their diet, cleanliness,
and general hygiene, and, above all, if they are
kept free from draughts, they will be found as a
rule to keep well and to give very little trouble.
It is as well, however, that every one should
know how to treat the more common ailments
with which our feathered pets are afflicted, and
the following brief notes should be useful in this
connection.
Moulting cannot be exactly classed as an
ailnient, as all birds moult - that is to say, cast
their feathers once a year, generally late in
summer or early in autumn, but it is important
that great care should be taken of oiu- pets
during the moulting season. They should be
well fed and kept warm and free from draughts.
A little maw-seed should be added to the usual
food - a rusty nail or a little saffron placed in
the drinking-water. Either will form an efficient
tonic.
Parrot-Stand.
516
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
NlOk and Beak.- Birds' nails should not be
allowed to grow too long or they may get caught
in the wires of the cage, and oft^n |"3U"f^toJ:^"
toes may bo caused in tliis way. Take the bird
in vour hand and, holding it on its back, hftit up
to the Ught, when you will be able to see the vems
in the claws and thus avoid cutting as far as
these Cut with a sharp pair of scissors. Take
good care to hold the bird firmly, so that it cannot
wriggle whilst the nail-cutting is proceeding
Colds.- Colds are nearly always the result of
draughts. They often bring about loss of voice
for a time. Put the cage in a warmer room
which is at the same time free from draughts,
and add a little hemp to its diet - a few drops
of glycerine and whisky may be added to the
water with advantage.
Asthma. - Where a cold results in asthma, the
condition of the bird is most serious. The com-
plaint is indicated by hea\'y breathing and
wheezing. The bird should be kept in a warm,
moist atmosphere and a cloth placed round its
cage. Egg and bread-crumbs with maw-seed
should form its diet. Asthma is one of the
most fatal diseases that attack our pots - unless
taken in time a cure is hopeless. It should be
avoided by keeping the bird well out of draughts.
Diarrhoea. - This is often caused by unsuit-
able diet or too liberal a supply of green food.
Give a tiny drop of castor oil in the beak. An
egg diet consisting of the yoke of a hard-boiled
egg mashed up with some biscuit is often
effective, or scalded rape seed may be given
instead.
Constipation is often caused through an
insufficient supply of green food. Often drops
of glycerine added to the drinking-water will be
found effective, and the cause should bo removed
by at once increasing the supply of green food.
A little apple should be given where no green
food is available.
Egg-bound. - When a hen bird after sitting for
some days on a nest does not lay, but appears
instead generally out of sorts, she will be found
to be egg-bound. She should be held over a
jug of hot water, and then the vent should he
anointed with a Uttle olive oil. Two drops of
olive or castor oil should also be given internally.
POULTRY-KEEPING
A LARQK amount of interest and pleasure may be had out of poultry-keeping, where there is sufiBcient
space for a good run and the tending of fowls is thoroughly well understood.
Poultry-keeping on a large scale for profit will not here be dealt with. Suffice it to say that it
is a business which should not be too readily undertaken by any one but an expert on account of
the anxiety and great risks entailed. Where, however, a householder, with a certain amount of
spare ground at his command for the erection of a suitable hen-house and run, keeps a few fowls
for the purpose of supplying the table with fresh, new-laid eggs daily, it is a different matter. Poultry
kept in this way wU, if properly tended, more than pay for its keep - in fact, it will show a good
margin of profit if the stock is judiciously kept up and renewed.
The Hen-House. - A suitable house and run
must, of course, be provided. Excellent houses
are supplied by the manufacturers of poultry
appliances at very moderate prices. Cheap
poultry appliances are a mistake, and it is money
thrown away to buy them - the cheap house is
bound to be made of poor quality, unseasoned
timber., which will swell in wet weather so that
the doors and windows will not shut, and
shrink in the summer until there is a creak
letting in draught between every board. The
difference between two apparently similar
houses at a £1 and 40s. is in the wood, as a
rule - and the purchase of the better one will
pay in the long-run. If the timber is good to
start with, atmospheric conditions will have no
effect upon it, and the house can be stood in the
sun with impunity. Furthermore, a coat of
paint now and then will make the house look
like new, and it will fetch a fair price if at any
time it is necessary to sell it. The roof of a
wooden poultry-house should be of weather-
board well painted or creosoted. Felt covering
to the sides and roof is not to be recommended,
as it is generally put on cheap makes to cover
deficiencies in the wood.
A closed-up poviltry-house with the usual
ridge ventilation requires to be not less than
5 feet by 4 feet by 5 feet to be healthy accom-
modation for six fowls. One side of the house
should have as large a window as possible,
covered only with wire netting, as it is essential
that the house should be properly ventilated.
As the dampness of our climate is one of the
worst enemies of our poultry, a house well
raised above the ground is to be preferred to a
low pattern with no floor. The nests should be
placed on a level with the floor. If the house
is of a pattern which comes directly into contact
with the ground, old railway sleepers placed
under the woodwork will help *^o keep it in good
condition.
Cleanliness. - Cleanliness in the poultry-house
and run is essential. All poultry-houses and
their runs should be cleaned out daily. A
sprinkling of sifted ashes, sawdust, or peat-moss
dust should always be thrown under the perches.
The perches should be regularly taken out and
cleaned, and the inside of the house should be
limewashed at least three times a year.
Grit and Lime. - It is absolutely necessary that
grit in some form should be supplied to fowls.
This is indispensable in assisting them to digest
their food. In every run a heap of gravel or
broken stone, crockery or oyster-shell, must be
placed, also some old mortar rubbish or similar
substance. Laying fowls require a considerable
quantity of lime to provide material for the egg
shells, and this may be given in the shape of
oyster -shells broken up, ground bones, or, best
of all, mortar rubbish. The laying of a shell-
less or soft-shelled egg is a sure sign that the
birds are neglected in this respect.
Nest-Boxes. - These are often made too small.
Good nest-boxes for small varieties can be made
out of orange -boxes, which cost only a few pence
each. They are already divided into tliree nests,
are very strong, and need only the addition of
some strips of wood along the openings in the
sides. Tlie advantage of such nests over more
elaborate and costly ones is that they can be
thrown away and replaced with new ones, if
necessary, without compunction. The nests
should be filled with straw, and each should
contain a china egg.
Perches. - All perches should be arranged at a
uniform height, which should not be greater
than 4 feet from the gi'ound. If they are placed
at different heights, all the birds will endeavour
to crowd on the highest perch, and will fight
for possession of it. Perches should be round
and small enough to be comfortably grasped by
the toes of the fowls. They should be easily
removable for cleaning purposes.
517
518
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Site.- With regai-d to a site, wherever possible,
poultry-houses should be so situated that they
get aU the sun in tlie winter, and yet are not
too hot in the summer. A south-east or south-
west aspect will meet the case, the choice to be
decided by the prevailing wind of the district,
away from which the houses should be turned.
Poultry Runs.- In cases where the fowls have
a run out over a paddock, very great care is
needed not to overstock the ground. Twelve
birds to the acre seems to be the greatest
number which can live healthily for an indefinite
period of vears. Ordinary hen runs should be
enclosed vrith wire netting. They can be made
by dri\'ing posts not less than 6 feet high into
the ground at certain distances and attaching
wire netting to them. Good portable hen runs
Indian corn (or maize) are the best grains. For
soft foods those grains are ground into flour.
Wheat ground in this way is known as middlings,
sharps, pollards, or tliirds, different names for
the same thing given in different parts of tlio
country. Oats treated in the same manner
produce ground oats, barley meal, giound
barley. Pea meal and bran are also good soft
foods. .
IMiddlings, bran, and pea meal nuxed with
warm water make an excellent morning meal
of soft food for the cold months of autumn
and winter. A mixture of ground oats and
middUngs is also good. The scraps of meat
food should be given with this meal. The
evening meal should be of grain and oats. For
i laying birds nothing can be better than oats.
Hen-House.
may also bo bought at moderate prices. A run I
10 feet long by 6 feet wide will hold six fowls. |
The suburban poultry-keeper with very little
space at his command will be well advised if he
adds a roof to his run. His object will only be
to produce a regular supply of new-laid eggs,
and there is little doubt that he will attain his
desire with greater certainty if he keeps his
birds dry and well sheltered. Coal ashes should
be spread over the floor of the run to keep it
Food and Feeding. - To ensure the health of
the denizens of the poultry-yard it is essential
that they should have proper and suitable food.
It must bo remembered that a food which may
be very suitable and even necessary in wint may be totally unsuitable in summer, and that
birds penned will not thrive on a diet suitable
for those enjoying a large range. Fowls to bo
fattened for the table must also be fed in a
special manner. In short, the food must be of
the right description to serve the particular
purpose required. Laying hens will eat more
than idle ones, and in winter the fowls will eat
more than in summer.
Various kinds of grain, soft food (ground-up
grain), vegetable and meat foods are necessary.
Grata and Soft Food.- Oats, wheat, barley,
whilst wheat is a good all-the-year-round food. ,
Indian corn (or maize) is the best fattener, but
is not to be recommended for any fowls except
in very cold weather, because birds fed too
exclusively on it are apt to acquire a soft, yellow,
oily fat instead of the desirable firm, wnite
flesh. For growing birds a judicious blending
of oatmeal, Indian corn, wheat, and barley is
desirable. , , j j *
Meat Foods.- Grain and soft foods do not
constitute the sum-total of the foods required
by fowls. Quite as important and by no mea.is
so easily secured in the average poultry-yard
are insect and animal life. Fowls which are at
liberty forage themselves for a great deal of
their meat food. They eat with avidity all
manner of grubs and caterpillars, earth-worms,
shell-snails, and slugs.as well as ants' eggs, beetles,
and flies, and there is no doubt that birds thrive
best when they have the opportunity of search-
ing, stalking, and scratching for these desirable
tit-bits. It is absolutely necessary that fowls
should have a daily supply of animal food in
some form or other. Cereals alone are not
sufficient to fulfil all the necessary functions,
and if the birds are confined they must receive
something in addition, even if it takes the shape
of meat from the butcher. For the smaU
POULTRY-KEEPING
519
poultry-yard the house scraps, in which bits of
meat and bones are always to be found, will be
suflficicnt. " Save the scraps for the cliickens "
must therefore be the mandate to the powers
that be in the kitchen. Cut green bone is very
valuable as a meat food for fowls where meat
and bone scraps from the table prove insuffi-
cient ; also bullock's liver, tripe, or raw scraps
may be had very cheaply from the butchers. A
small allowance of meat food minced finely and
mixed with the soft food should be given daily.
It is better to do this than give a larger quantity
once or twice a week. Meat acts as a stimulant
with fowls, and is especially valuable as an in-
centive to laying. It will be found to work
wonders on backward pullets. If birds do not
lay, it is very probably because they are low
in health through their not having sufficient
meat in their diet. A judicious meat diet will,
in most cases, obviate all necessity of having the
recourse to the spices and strong stimulants
which are so much used for the purpose of
bringing hens on to lay and increasing egg
production.
Table Scraps. - Care must be taken in sorting
the table scraps given to the fowls that they do
not consist too largely of fat and bread-crtists.
These contain very little egg material, and only
serve to fatten without stimulating. Apart from
the meat scraps, potatoes and potato-parings
mix well with the soft food.
Green Food. - Fowls eat quite a lot of grass
if they get the chance, and a daily supply of
green food is as indispensable to birds in con-
finement as is animal lood. The green stviff
may take the form of a few handfuls of grass,
a cabbage or lettuce hung up in the run at a
height where it can be conveniently pecked at,
or, in fact, almost any garden produce. Under
this category we may include potatoes, carrots,
and other roots, none of which come amiss if
boiled till soft and mixed with the meal in small
quantities. The cores of apples with the seeds
(which will be eagerly devoured) and the peel
can be given if everything else fails, but it is
necessary to mention that too free vise of apples
leads to a bad kind of diarrhoea in fowls. Birds
which have free access to the apple heaps in
autumn in the orchards of the West get in sad
plight from this cause.
Number of Meals. - Two meals a day - one
early in the morning, the other in the evening -
are ample for fowls which have a paddock or
other space to roam about in, whilst bii'ds in
confinement should have a third and lighter
meal, mainly of green stuff at noon. The soft
food should be given at the morning meal, mixed
with any scraps, green bone, &c., to constitute
the meat allowance. Tlie evening meal should
consist of grain. For the morning feed just as
much soft food should be given as the fowls will
run after eagerly - this will be about 2 oz. to
3 oz. per bird. For the evening meal 2 oz. of
grain per head for the small breeds, 2| oz. to
3 oz. for the large ones, will be sufficient.
Birds in the fattening pen intended for the
table should have not less than three square
meals daily, and young chickens need feeding
four to six times a day.
Cost of Feeding Fowls. - Tliis depends, of
course, partly upon whether the food is purchased
in an advantageous market, also upon how
much has to be bought. Presuming that all the
food has to be purchased, and that this is done
in the cheapest market, we may estimate as
follows for six laying fowls, weekly : -
6 Hens- 1 Week.
Meal (2i oz. each daily*, say 6 lbs. barley
meal, at Ss. 4d. per bushel of 48 lbs. . about 5d.
Grain (2J oz. each daily), say 7 lbs., at
3s. 9d. per bushel 5Jd.
Meat, 14 oz. greaves at lis. per cwt. . . ,, Id.
lljd.
Green food and grit will have to be added to this
sum, if not available in the form of scraps, and
odds and ends of rubbish.
Water. - All water-vessels should be rinsed out
and refilled with pure water thrice daily. The
water should never be allowed to stand in the
sun, neither should snow water be given.
Hints on Buying Fowls. - When starting a
poultry run it is necessary of course to buy young
birds. It is by no means easy for a notice to
tell the age of a fowl - a fact of which an un-
scrupvdous vendor will take advantage. It may
be said that, broadly speaking, the legs of a
young hen are smooth and dehcate, her comb
and wattles soft, and her feathers close. Old
hens often have hard, hori;y -looking legs with
liard spurs, a stiff bill, and rough comb and
wattles, wWle the feathers may be loose and
inchned to droop behind. Anj' of these indica-
tions may, however, be deceptive, so that the
buyer must, unfortunately, be somewhat de-
pendent on the word of the seller as to the exact
age of his pullets. For this reason it may bo
better to buy in the spring chickens fully fledged,
when their age can be almost esactlj' arrived at,
feed them well, and wait for the eggs.
For Winter Laying. - As very few pullets com-
mence to laj' before they are six months old,
and the majority not until from one or two
months older, to secure a supply of new-laid
eggs in the winter it will be necessary to buy
chickens hatched late in February or early in
March. It is important that the pullets should
have begun to lay before the first real frost sets
in. Once they have commenced to lay, cold
will seldom check them if they are sensibly fed,
but they will often be deterred by cold from
commencing egg production. ^\laen winter eggs
are the chief concern, the majority of tlie pullets
should be killed off after Christmas, aa they get
broody or stop laying, and they will be found
to make excellent roasting birds even though
520
•THE WOMAN'S BOOK:
nettfly or quite a year old. Thoir places should
be taken by chickens hatched from their eggs,
thus ensuring a new generation of birds every
year to provide the household \rith winter eggs.
Hens, i.e. birds in thoir second winter and
onwards, never lay in September, October, or
November, because they are then moulting.
It is known, however, that picked pullets, well
forced from birth and hatched early, will not
moult, but will lay instead.
Varieties of Fowls. - In deciding upon what
fowls to keep it will bo necessary to bear in
mind for what special purpose they will be
required. Certain breeds of fowls make the
best layers, others are better for table pur-
poses, whilst others in varying degrees are
suitable for both. The following are very
good fowls for laying purposes : Anconas,
Andalusians, Slinorcas, Leghorns, and Ham-
burgs. All of these are non-sitters, and lay
white eggs. Aseels, Dorkings, Game, Indian
Game, La Flfeche, Poland, and Sussex are good
table fowls. These are non-sitters, and lay dark-
coloured eggs. Orpingtons, Langhams, Bedcaps,
Wyandottes, and Plymouth Rocks are sitters
and good for both laying and table purposes.
Houdans are non-sitters and good for laying
as well as table purposes. Brahmas and Cochins
are good layers of dark-coloured eggs, but are
such inveterate sitters that they always show a
marked inclination to become broody after having
produced only a small number of eggs. The hens
of both breeds make capital mothers.
Fowls for Small Runs. - Orpingtons, Mnorcas,
Leghorns, Cochins, Faverolles, Plymouth Rocks,
and Wyandottes stand confinement well, and
are therefore particularly suited for a small run
in a kitchen garden or back yard.
Where the space is very limited chicken-
hatching should not be attempted, and it is
better, in these circumstances, to keep a few
hens of the non-sitting breeds, without a cock.
However, even the small poultry-keeper who
keeps hens merely for the eggs they provide for
the table requires to renew his stock every year
if the egg supply is to be good and continuous,
and if the fowl run is not unduly small a brood
can easily be raised once in the year for effecting
this purpose.
Making a Pen. - If the fowls have their liberty,
a dozen hens of the heavier sitting breeds may be
put with one cock. Of the non-sitting breeds,
eight to ten hens is sufficient, if fully fertile
eggs are expected. Eight or six hens respec-
tively will be enough if the birds are confined.
The best results come from running March-
hatched pullets with a cock in his second season,
or from running a cockerel with hens in their
second season. It must be remembered that
the better the stock the better the chickens will
l>e. If none but the strongest and healthiest
birds are selected for stock, the chickens will
inherit the good qualities of the parent birds.
It does not matter how nearly related the latter
are, so long as they are strong and healthy. In-
breeding, in fact, is absolutely necessary in
some cases to fix definite characteristics, and as
long as the strongest and healthiest are selected
for stocks no harm will come from breeding
them together.
Selection of Eggs for Hatching. - Apart from
the selection of eggs from particular hens, it is
important that only eggs of fair average size,
say, not less than 2 oz. in weight, of good shape,
and with clean, smooth shells should be put on
one side for hatching. None of the eggs should
have been laid longer than three weeks at the
outside, and the fresher they are the better.
The Sitting Hen. - Care must be taken in
arranging a suitable nest for the sitting hen.
The nest should always be made, if possible, on
damp ground. To make a good nest, throw
down a heap of mould in a corner of the sitting-
house, place some bricks around it to keep it
together, scoop out the centre slightly and
place therein some soft straw, and the nest is
complete.
If a number of hens are sitting together in the
same house, it may be necessary to separate them
with wire netting in some way, or to cover each
over with a basket. Throe cheap sitting-boxes
can be made out of an orange-box, the nests
being prepared with mould and a little straw as
above suggested.
A heap or box of dry ashes should be within
reach of every sitting hen for her to dust her-
seK in.
Tlie number of eggs to be placed under a hen
varies from ten to fifteen, according to the time
of year and the breed. In cold weather it is
undesirable to give more than can be comfortably
covered. If the outer eggs are merely covered
by the feathers, and the season is inclement, a
good hatch will not be secured.
Suitable eggs for settings may be had for from
5s. and upwards per setting (usually about
fiifteen eggs) from most poultry-rearers. The
price will of course vary in regard to the quality
of the eggs.
The period of incubation is twenty-one days.
A hen should be allowed to get accustomed to
her nest before the eggs are placed under her.
This can be done by placing a couple of nest
eggs in the nest and placing her on it at dusk.
She should then be left for twenty-four hours,
and when it is found she has quite settled down,
the eggs for the sitting can bo placed imder her.
Food for Sitting Hens. - The food given should
be wheat, soft food being unsuitable. It is
sometimes difficult to get a hen - particularly
a broody turkey hen - to eat ; indeed, we have
known one of the latter to die on the nest from
this cause. In such a cewe they must be
crammed daily with soft food, mixed as dry and
crumbly as possible. We alway^ like to see a
hen feed freely, walk about a little, and take
POULTRY-KEEPING
521
a dust-bath before returning to the nest. No
fear need be entertained that harm will come to
the eggs from a thorough cooling. They may be
allowed to get stone cold, and will still hatch
satisfactorily, especially at the commencement of
incubation, and the more air in reason they get
the stronger will the chickens be.
Broken Eggs. - If by chance an egg gets broken
in the nest, all those in contact with it must be
washed in warm water, and the nest renovated
with clean earth and straw. A cracked egg may
be repaired with a small piece of sticking-plaster
or stamp-paper.
Towards the end of the three weeks (twenty -
one days) of incubation, the nest, if very dry,
may with advantage be sprinkled with rain-
water, with a watering-can with rose. Under
natural conditions, the eggs would be more or
less exposed to rain during the temporary
absence of the hen, besides benefiting from wet
which may fall on the ground around them,
and there is no doubt that ample moisture is an
important factor towards a successful hatch.
Testing Eggs. - A simple and efficient instru-
ment for testing the fertility of eggs is made by
cutting a hole, the shape of but sHghtly smaller
than an egg, in the centre of a piece of card-
board. Tlie cardboard must be covered with
black paper, or painted black. At night, if the
egg is placed against the hole in the cardboard
and held up to the light of a good lamp, the con-
tents can be plainly seen on the seventh day.
Infertile or " clear " eggs are almost transparent
and similar to those new laid, and the novice
can compare with a known unincubated egg if
doubtful of the appearance they have. Those
which contain chickens will appear quite dark
and opaque, except at the larger end ; possibly,
if the light is strong enough, small branching
blood-vessels will be seen. Addled eggs look
very dark and cloudy.
Feeding and Rearing Chickens. - Chickens do
not require any food for the first twenty-four
hours of their existence. During this time both
Poultry Coop.
hen and choikens should be left alone. The
first meal for the chicks should consist of a little
baked custard, or hard-boiled eggs chopped fine,
mixed with double the quantity of bread-crumbs
and moistened with milk. The hen should be
given a feed of Indian corn, then both hen and
chicks should be taken to their coop, which should
be placed on a piece of clean short grass. The
coop will have to be placed on a board every
night and imperviously closed if the presence of
Poultry Coop and Run.
rats is suspected. Coops are also sold with little
rims attached. These are very useful when it is
desired to keep the chicken within bounds.
During the last few years a revolution has
taken place in the methods of feeding chickens.
In the past meal messes were considered to fulfil
all requirements. In the present the rage is
all for " di-y feeding," as it is called, and the
loud praises of all poultry-keepers who have
tried it testify to the benefit of the reform.
Now, instead of feeding the chicks on ground
meal, small seeds, such as canary, millet, dari,
and small wheat, are given. These seeds should
be of the best and should be given whole,
not crushed. It will be found that the chicks
can be reared entirely from the beginning on
this natural dietary supplemented with animal
food.
Some authorities strongly recommend that a
httle baked custard be given during the first day
or two, in Meu of the old-fashioned hard-boiled
egg, and it no doubt makes a valuable addition
to the dry food. If the chickens have their
liberty they will find for themselves all the
necessary grit, animal life, and green food. If
confined, these items must be added to their
menu by their owner. Ants' eggs and maggots
will be much appreciated. Chopped nettles
suit them very well, and finely-chopped onions
and leeks have a wonderfully stimulating and
apparently tonic action, and should be given
freely. Chickens require grit just as much as
adult fowls.
The chickens should be fed every two hours
for the first three weeks. Tlie first meal should
be as early in the morning, and the last as late
in the evening as possible. The gi'ain should
be thrown on the ground, the soft food placed
in saucers, which together with the drinking-
vessels should be kept clean.
Many poultry -rearers believe in giving the
chickens Spratt's Chicken Meal as soft food for
the early morning meal, giving the mixture of
the various small seeds at the other meals.
Fattening Fowls for the Table.- Of the pure
breeds, Dorkings, Game, Langshans, Wyandottes,
Orpingtons, Plymoxith Rocks, and Sussex are the
most useful table-fowls for family purposes. Tlie
522
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
birds should bo penned up m a "*\"^' ^f'i'
quiet place for fatt*^ning. Fowls will fatten
very well if confined in any place where they
get no exercise, and are out of sight and hearing
of their comrades. .
Feeding for Fattening Purposes.- Oatmeal is
the best food, nmize having a tendency to pro-
duce a yellow, oily fat. Throe meals dady,
as far apart as possible, should be given, con-
Sting of oatmeal mixed to a crvxmbly state
wih (if possible) milk. "Scraps" from the
house, particularly finely chopped fat trimmings
may bi mixed in with advantage. A supply of
water and some coarse sand or fine gravel should
always stand before the birds. As much a^
the fowls can eat should be given at each nieal,
but no more. Food should never be left standing
in front of them. Care must be taken that the
troughs are kept clean and the food is not
allowed to become sour.
A bird will be at its best after three weeks
penning. K left longer than this it will go
Sff." and the food given be wasted. In view of
this fact, it is important that fowls should be j
penned up so as to be at their best exactly when ,
"^^KiUing.- Dislocation of the neck, if properly
done, is undoubtedly the most humane method
of killing a fowl. The system of " wringing the
neck " is not to be recommended, an easier and
more certain mode being to hold the bird by the
legs and give it a very sharp blow at the back
of the neck with a small but heavy stick. For
the average poultry hand, who does not under-
stand correct dislocation, perhaps the best way
of all to bring about a merciful and instantaneous
death is to pierce the brain with a kmfe. ihe
bird must be hung up by the legs, the mouth
opened, and the blade of a penknife thrust firmly
through the back part of the roof of the mouth.
An incision should be made in the neck, and the
bird should be loft hanging for a short time until
the blood has drained out if great whiteness ot
flesh is desired ; but bleeding is not absolutely
necessary. ."
A fowl plucks much more easily when stiu
warm. , . . ., "
The best time to kill is first thing in the
morning before the early meal, as the intestines
will then be free of food. A fast of not less
than three hours is absolutely necessary, or the
birds will not keep for long, and the flesh will
\euck firmness.
COMMON AILMENTS OF THE FOWL
The majority of the complaints from which
poultry suffer are brought on by lack of cleanli-
^3, cold or damp, or a faulty dietary. In the
well-kept poultry-yard disease should be rare
When a bird appears to be unwell it should
at once be isolated from the others, as most of
the ailments of the fowl are infectious.
The following ere some of the most common
ailments amongst poultry :-
Qranip. Tliis is a frequent complaint with
cliickens,' caused by exposure to cold and wet,
or too close confinement on a boarded floor.
The toes of the little birds become contracted,
and they will often sit down to relieve the feet.
Trealment.-The birds will usually recover
if placed for a few houi-s in a hamper near the
fire. Their legs may be rubbed with turpentine
to hasten the cure.
Diarrhoea.- This may be caused by exposure
to wet and cold, sudden change of food, or un-
suitable food. ■ i "of
Treatment.- A case of simple diarrhoea is best
treated first by starvation, a dose of castor oil
being given if the bird is very bad. A drop or
two of tincture of opium will also cure it. ihe
most suitable food until the ailment is com-
pletely past is boiled rice, and plenty of grit
should be put witliin reach of the invahd. As
diarrhoea in its initial stages is very d.ihcult to
distinguish from the fatal fowl enteritis and
enteric, or inflammation of some portion of the
! intestines, a disease which would cause the
death of the whole stock in a short space of time,
it is advisable that all symptoms of diarrhoea
should be looked upon with the greatest suspicion,
the invalid isolated, and the other fowls removed
to fresh ground if possible. If the bn:d is un-
doubtedly inflicted with inflammation of the
intestines, it should be killed at once, and the
body burnt, as a cure is almost hopeless and
certainly not worth attempting.
Effg-binding.- When a hen is unable to pass
her egg she is said to be egg-bound. A hen who
I is egg bound will be seen to go frequently to the
! nest and come out again without having laid.
her wings and tail ^vill be drooping, and she wUl
' be evidently in pain. This will be caused by
an unusually large egg which she is unable to
Treatment.- Hold the hen over a vessel of hot
water so that the steam can reach the vent, and
apply a little olive oil to the vent ; a dose of
cE oil may also be given with advantage.
The hen should be kept as quiet as Pf "'"^f ;
Gapes.- This causes a great deal of niortality
amongst chickens, and is caused by small worms
thich live in the windpipe. The .ficken gasps
for breath, and needs to be speedily relieved of
the worms, which choke it. Tliis disease never
occurs amongst carefully housed chickens, and
is in part due to neglect. ,
Trealment.-U taken early, a niorsel of
camphor the size of a grain of wheat g\ven daily,
and a little camphor put in the drinking-water,
combined with improvement in diet and housing
may effect a cure. In bad cases it ^B^y b"
nelsary to insert a feather, Btjippod to withm
an inch of the point, and dipped in a weak solu-
W of t^baccoUe'r, quickly into the wmdpi^e
turning it round and drawing it out again
POULTRY-KEEPING
together with some of the parasites. Another
remedy is to put the fowl in a box for a quarter
of an hour at a time, placing a small piece of
sponge soaked in eucalyptus oil in with it, the
process to be repeated constantly throughout one
or more days as found necessary. The breath -
mg of air strongly impregnated witli eucalyptus
will cause the death of the worms.
Leg Weakness.- Cawae.- The body of the bird
IS too hea^^ for the strength of its legs, conse-
quently It constantly subsides into a sitting
position. ў
Treatnient-The constitution of the bird must
be built up on nourishing food and meat. The
food should be little in quantity, but of the best,
to overcome this form of weakness.
Difficulty in Moulting is due entu:ely to
weakness and general debiUty.
Treafmerd.- Birds should be kept in a warm
house and fed Hberally on animal food. As
much saccharated carbonate of iron as will
cover a threepenny piece, given mixed with the
soft food daily to each individual, wiU act as a
tome, and help to build up the constitution.
Roup.- Cause.- A very contagious disease of
the respiratory organs, actually a species of
catarrh symptomised by offensive discharge
from the nostrils, &c., and caused by exposure
to wet and very cold winds.
Treatment.-.The affected bird should be im-
mediately isolated and placed in a warm house.
*eed on oatmeal mixed wth ale or stout, and
give plenty of green food. Some iron tome,
^recommended in the previous paragraph.
^L,, beneficial. The head and eyes must b^
to which a few drops of carbolic acid have been
523
[ added. The disease runs its course very rapidly
I and may spread throughout the entire yard
It m a week the bird is not almost weU. it is
better to kill it and burn the carcase. In aU
cases of contagious diseases the attendant should
be careful that he does not throw food to healthy
fowls with hands unwashed since he handled a
sick bird.
Scaly Legs.--Caw*e.- A very small insect
which burrows under the scales and forms httle
cells, temporarily disfiguring the legs, and
causing considerable irritation.
Treatmeni.~The best cure is to brush the legs
twice daily with a hard tooth or nail brush
dipped m paraffin oil. A fortnight's daily
attention will usually get the legs right. The
appearance of this ailment should suggest the
advisabiHty of a thorough cleaning out, disin-
fection, and lime-wasliing of aU poultry-houses.
Vermin.- Cawse.- Neglect and uncleanUness,
particularly absence of an efficient dust-bath.
Fowls genoraUy have a few fleas in summer, but
with proper attention vermin should not be
sufficiently prevalent to cause annoyance to the
bird.
Treat?nent.~The addition of some flowers of
sulphur to the dust-bath, and the dusting
of the hen with insect powder, will alleviate
these troubles. In very bad cases it may be
necessary to dress the hen on head and beneath
wrings and thighs with paraffin. These attentions
wiU be of little avail, however, miless the
poultry-house is thoroughly cleaned out and
the walls and perches and all crevices lime-
washed. Fleas breed in dust, consequently
none should be allowed to accumulate untouched
for more than a few days at a time.
RECREATIONS
INDOOR GAMES AND ENTERTAINMENT
Every woman should include a knowledge of good indoor games and entertainments amongst
her accomplishments. To be able to play well is almost as essential as to be able to do one's work
thoroughly. The most popular people with children and the younger " grown-ups " are almost
invariably those who are good organisers of games. We have all of us experienced the dullness
of those long evenings that drag for want of something to do or for want of co-operation in amuse-
ment. Let us take a typical case. One member of the family may have an interesting book -
her evening will most probably bo spent to her satisfaction ; another may be engaged in writing
letters. This is an agreeable task for some ; in any case it is a task which prevents time hanging
on one's hands. Well, let us suppose that the one or two remaining members of the family have
nothing to do. They cannot keep up a conversation for fear of disturbing the others. They
literally have to sit gazing in the 6re yawning the time away until bed-time. Now dullness and
want of occupation are especially bad for young people, and the wise head of a family will never
allow such a state of affairs to prevail. She will make a point of seeing that all the evenings of her
young people are spent pleasantly and well by encouraging them to co-operate in their amusements
by having games in which all may join. Other young people may sometimes call in in the evenings,
and the greater the number of players the miore fun there will be. In fact, friends will soon make
a habit of dropping in on various evenings, knowing that they will always be amused. The wise
mother will encoxirage these impromptu visits, as she will realise that the social spirit is as the breath
of life to the young folk, and that if opportunity is afforded to her sons in particular to spend their
evenings pleasantly at home, they will not be anxious to seek their amusement abroad. It may
indeed be said that dull evenings have been the means of breaking up many an otherwise happy
homo circle. The thoughtful house-mistress will therefore take this to heart and keep her young
family together by entering with zest into their amusements and occupations, and making herself
an aidept organiser of all kinds of home fun.
Theatricals. - Amongst the favourite enter-
tainments provided at children's parties thea-
tricals may be said to take a foremost place.
To begin with, the pleasure of preparation almost
equals, if it does not excel, that of the actual
performance. The word " rehearsal " has a
mysterious yet potent charm for the young
people. It is synonymous to them with many
pleasant little gatherings which may be arranged
in turn, at the houses of the various players
and at which they go over their parts, arrange
about the costumes and all the various other
details which have to bo attended to.
For home theatricals to be a success there must
edways be some good organiser to take charge
of the whole proceedings in regard to choice
•jf play, choice of performers, costumes, and
scenery. Without this chaos would inevntably
result. The organiser must also act as stage
manager, allotting to each player his or her
part. In this respect her task will be somewhat
difficult, for very seldom yet has a little com-
pany of players been known to assemble
without five or six of them at least wishing
to play the principal rfile.
524
In this respect the stage manager's word must
be law. Having once made her decision in
regard to the allotting of the parts, she must
be careful never to deviate from it, whatever
pressure may bo brought to bear upon her,
unless there should bo very good reason for
her doing so, such as the utter incompetency
or unsuitability of any particular player con-
cerned. But the careful stage manager will
think well before she gives out the parts, and
thus avoid making mistakes which are often
the moans of hurting the feelings of the person
chiefly concerned, and which might well have
been avoided.
Home theatricals, if properly arranged, involve
very little expense. Fancy costumes can be
made of the cheapest materials, such as art
muslin and sateens, whilst if the piece to be
presented is a modern one the dressing
is even yet more simplified. Friends and
relations will willingly lend articles from their
wardrobes in order to a-ssist in the suoceBS of
the presentation.
The size and shape of the room in which the
theatricals are to be given are most important
RECREATIONS
525
^
R
considerations, A large drawing-room with a
curtained alcove or folding-doors in the centre
is the most suitable for the purpose. The stage
will be on one side of the folding-doors or
curtains, while the members of the audience
are seated on the other side. Rows of chairs
should be neatly arranged in the auditorium,
and in a manner which will allow for as good
a view as possible of the stage to be obtained.
Of coiirse, where there is no raised platform the
people seated in the back rows will not see
so well as those in front, and for this reason
the latter position should as far as posible be
allotted to the tiniest of the juveniles with the
grown-ups who are in charge of them.
On the night of the performance complete
order must reign behind the scenes. The players
should be dressed and in their places at least
ten minutes before the curtain goes up. They
should be letter perfect in their parts but at
the same time " stage fright " is a
factor which must be reckoned with,
and for this reason there should
always be a " prompter " concealed
from the audience who, keeping the
MSS. of the play in front of her, will
follow the dialogue carefully, giving
assistance when necessary in a clear
low voice. The words should never
be whispered nor too loudly spoken :
a happy medium is acquired with
experience.
The stage manager should always
have a list of iny " properties " re-
quired in the piece, such as walking
sticks, flowers, or the inevitable letter
upon which the plot of so many a
play depends. It would be disastrous,
for instance, if the heroine were sup-
posed to discover an all -important
letter upon her writing-table, and
when the time came for her to find it the letter
was not there. Few young amateurs would
have the presence of mind to cope with such
a difficulty. The stage manager should see
therefore that everything is in its place before
the curtain rises, or else appoint some one to
do it for her.
All the players must be well acquainted with
their exits and entrances. It would not do
for any one, for instance, to appear to go through
a blank wall or a window instead of through
the door, but this is a mistake which is very
commonly made, to the amusement of the
onlookers. In the ordinary drawing-room
screens have to play an important part in the
arrangement of the exits. Four screens, two
on each side, can be requisitioned for the wings,
and a small steady table placed in each recess
(see illustration) for moderator lamps - prefer-
ably of the self-extinguishing pattern, in case they
should be upseL by an untoward accident - to
make up for the deficiency of footlights, though
these can be provided by the aid of a little
ingenuity, e.g. candle reading - lamps with
shades and reflectors, begged or borrowed from
accommodating neighbours. Cocoa-tins cut in
half and night-lights will serve the purpose
equally well. Here, again, the inventive genius
of the promoters of the enterprise will have to
be called into play.
By the judicious arrangement of the screens
it will be possible for exits and entrances on
both sides of the stage.
Very little expense need be gone into in the
way of scenery. If it is an indoor scene, as the
room of a house, as long as the furniture on the
stage is suitably arranged no scenery will be
required. Simple outdoor scenes can also be
very easily planned. I remember seeing a most
admirable representation of the fairy scenes
from " The ISIidsummer Night's Dream " given
at a Christmas paxty by some very talented
JLdimp
L&i
>^i^
np
.4^' "^
• L^rmp
Ld^rnp
Audience
Plan showing arrangement of Screens for Exits and Entrances.
children. In this the background to the scene
was hung with green art muslin, to which were
tacked trailing boughs of ivy and other foliage.
Stiff brown paper covered the floor, loose foliage
being scattered here and there in realistic fashion,
whilst green art muslin spread over footstools
and cushions, and artistically decorated here
and there with more leaves, did admirable duty
as the green bank upon which Titania sleeps.
Palms and other plants were judiciously ar-
ranged along the sides of the stage near the
wings.
The dresses, wliich were correct in every
detail, were all fashioned out of art muslin. As
this material is procurable at 2d. a yard it can
be imagined that they were not costly, although
very graceful and pretty. AH these garments
were cut and made at home from copies of the
" Midsummer Night's Dream " pictures. The
most costly item was the expenditure entailed
by the hiring of a mechanical donkey's head at
53. 6d. for the night.
526
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
How to Make a Drop-Curtain. - An essential
piece of stage furniture for amateur theatricals
is the drop-curtain. It can be made from two
equal widths of some serviceable material such
as dark cretonne, supported by brass rings on
a stout bamboo rod, to either end of which are
att€w:hed large steel eyes (A A).
The bamboo rod should be cut to such a
length that when the eyes have been added, the
whole can be fixed to steel hooks screwed into
the picture rail on either side of the room.
Back View of Drop-Curtain.
Should any difficulty be experienced in pro-
curing a rod of sufficient length, the diffi-
culty may be overcome by the use of two
shorter pieces joined at the middle by iron
sockets.
In the case where it is intended to give the
performance in either a schoolroom or a small
hall, a curtain of a much larger size and of
stouter material would be required, and tliis
latter can be supported on a length of strong
gas barrelling held in position by brackets nailed
to the wall at each end.
The arrangement for raising or lowering the
curtain is shown in the diagram, in which A A
is the rod. A number of small brass rings is
then sewn to the back of the curtain, as at A X
and A E. Top rings, much larger, are also
attached to the curtain and passed along the
rod. Ck)rd is next run from X and E respec-
tively through the rings at A, and allowed to
hang loose as at D and B. The bottom of the
curtain should be weighted with shot.
The Choice of Plays. - The choice of plays
will necessarily depend upon the age and talents
of the performers. Simple one act comedies
with three or four persons at most are the beet
to attempt at first. Good dialogues are very
amusing, and their production involves very
little trouble and expense. For children the
plays selected should be as simple and pretty
as possible. For the very tiny tots nothing
will be found more suitable than the simple
fairy tales, such as " Little Red Riding Hood,"
or tales from history, as " King Alfred and the
Cakes." Some very pretty children's plays are
included in the book " Little Plays," by
Lena Dalkeith, which are published at Is. and
Is. 6d., and may be obtained by ordering through
any bookseller.
Very often the " grown-up " organiser of
j\ivenile theatricals will herself have a taste
for dramatic wTiting. She will then be able
to arrange any of the various fairy tales in
accordance with her own idear>. The elder
children will be found to be some-
what more ambitious in regard to their
histrionic efforts. They will &s a rule
wish to emulate the " grown-ups " as
far as possible in their selection of
plays. Some of the simpler comedies
and farces will be found very suitable,
although a certain amount of dis-
cretion must be exercised in their
choice.
Messrs. Samuel French & Co., of
24 Southampton Street, Strand,
London, publish a large selection of
plays for amateurs, and their list
includes the following simple little
pieces : -
"Aiint Jane," by G. H. Pugh, is
a very suitable little play for school-
girls. There are three characters ; the
niiae-en-scine is of the simplest and such as
can be arranged with the utmost ee&e in
any ordinary room. The plot turns upon
the expected arrival of an unknown aunt
to take charge of her little nieces. There is
much conjecture os to what she will be like.
One of the nieces forms the idea of dressing
up as Aunt Jane for the benefit of her
sister, representing her as a very unpleasant
person indeed. Finally the deception is dis-
covered by means of a letter from Aunt Jane
announcing that she is unable to arrive on that
particular day. The tone of her letter indicates
that she is a very nice aunt indeed, and the
curtain goes down on two reaissured and happy
little nieces. The dialogue is brisk and amusing,
whilst it is at the same time simple and easily
memorised.
" Nursery Rhymeia " or " The Party," "' The
Prince and the Pie," by Alfred Paxton (eight
characters), "The Waxworks' Revels," by William
Heighway (eleven characters), are suitable for a
more ambitious performance by a large number
of children at a Christmas party, for instance.
Sometimes the performers will consist only
of boys. In these circumstances preference
should be given to plays in which only male
characters are required, such as in Miss Keating's
•' Plot of Potzcntausend."
One great thing to be borne in mind in regard
to home theatricals is to obviate as far as possible
all danger of fire. Candles should not bo used
as foothghts. It is better to do without foot-
RECREATIONS
527
lights at all than run any risks in this direction.
Where there are electric light pendants con-
veniently placed, nothing will be found easier
than to arrange these in such a manner that
their full hght is reflected on the stage. These,
with the safety-lamps in the wings, should be
all sufficient for lighting purposes in an ordinary
room.
Apart from the necessary wigs and other
paraphernalia, " make up " is not always
necessary when the theatricals take place in a
room of ordinary dimensions where there is no
limelight. In large rooms and halls, however,
make up will be necessary. In his book " Home
Fun," Mr. Cecil H. Bullivant gives very minute
and clear directions in the art of " making up."
He also gives many valuable hints in regard
to the making of home scenery, with the
minimum of outlay. The amateur theatrical
enthusiast cannot do better than purchase a
copy of this book, which will tell her everything
most useful to know in regard to these two very
important essentials in dramatic representation.
The Pastoral Play. - In the svmimer no more
charming entertainment can be devised than
a pastoral play rendered by children. Hostesses
with suitable garden space would do well to
keep this fact in mind. A pastoral play may
also prove a most enjoyable finish to a garden
party. The grounds should be prettily deco-
rated with Japanese lanterns, &c. ; the perfor-
mance should, if possible, be given on a raised
portion of lawn or ground with a slope towards
the audience.
Mention has alread\ been made of the suita-
bility of the fairy scenes from the " Midsummer
Night's Dream " for juvenile performance. These
are also admirably suited for open-air represen-
tation. " Under the Greenwood Tree," by Major
Philip Trevor, is a very pretty little play,
especially suitable for performance out of doors.
The scene is a woodland glade, where a number
I of chOdren are taking part in a " costume "
' picnic, headed by little Molly, Marchioness of
Storr, the child owner of the forest. Molly is
dressed as Berengaria, Queen of Richard I. ; the
others may wear any fancy dresses. In the
course of their revels the children discover Robin
Hood and Maid Marian in the trunk of a tree.
They come to life for a s-pell, and Robin tells
them about the days of King Richard. iMany
bright songs are introduced, and a feature of the
play is a pretty Maypole dance.
Plays for " Grown-Ups."- The choice of plays
for grown - up performei-s is practically un-
limited. Light comedies in one act, such as "Time
is Money " and " Compromising Martha," \vill bo
generally found to bo most suitable for homo
performance.
It should be remembered that when a copy-
right play is to be performed in public for
charity or other pm-pooes, the authorised per-
mission for the performance must be obtained
and a fee (usually one gviinea) paid. Tliis does
not apply, however, to performances given in
private houses where no money is taken for
the seats.
TABLEAUX VIVANTS
For tableaux vivants a good stage manager
is above all essential. Upon her rests the
responsibility of posing the actors and arranging
the setting of the " living picture " in as ei^ec-
tive a manner as possible. The subjects chosen
for the tableaux should be those that can easily
be recognised by the audience, such as charsicters
and scenes from Shakespeare, historical scenes,
favourite fairy tales, representations of famous
pictures or tableaux from famous plays. " Three
Little Maids from School," " Bubbles," " The Sign
of the Cross," " Cinderella," " The Greisha " - all
make pretty pictvires easy of representation. For
the first-named picture three girls in Japanese
costume should be grouped in attitudes typical
of Yum- Yum's " Three Little Maids from School "
song in the " Mikado." For " Bubbles " only one
juvenile actor is necessary. He should have
as far as possible the same cherubic type of
countenance as that of his prototype in Jlillais'
famous picttu-e. Costume and pose should also
be very closely copied. A very simple tableau
is the " Geisha." A girl dressed in a brightly
coloui'ed kimono seated on the ground in oriental
fashion, holding a Japanese sunshade over
her head. " The Sign of the Cross " has long
been a favourite tableau with amateurs. The
poses of Mercia and JIarcus have become
famiUarised to most of us by means of the
many pictures pubUshed of the late Wilson
Barrett's play. One tableau might represent
Mercia holding the cross aloft and Slarcus
bowing down in reverence before it, whilst
another could be illustrative of the well-known
picture, Mercia leading Marcus to the " Light
Beyond." " Cinderella " is anever-popular subject
for tableaux. She might appear in her tattered
dress, seated on the floor gazing into the cinders
with her hands clasped round her knees. There
are many other fairy-tale tableaux dear to the
heart of the little ones, such as *' The Prince
Discovering the Sleeping Beauty," " Dick Whit-
tington resting on his way to London," &c., &c.,
judicious selections from which should present
no difficulty to the stage manager with artistic
ideas and a taste for grouping. When the
pictures are historical, illustrated books on
costume should be studied, such as " British
Costume during Nineteen Centuries," by Sirs.
Charles Ashdown.
The stage manager must before all choose
suitable exponents of the various characters to
be depicted. No tableau should last longer
than three or four minutes at most, and the
various scenes should follow each other aa
quickly as possible. Careful attention should
528
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
be given to the lighting effects, and a drop-
curtain should be arranged as for private
theatricaJs, a person being stationed at either
side for its prompt raising or lowering at a given
signal.
Tlie thoughts of each cheuracter must be
concentrated on the part undertaken and the
onlookers absolutely forgotten. As few as
possible the swjtors should forget that there is
a certain amount of strain in the immovable
poise, otherwise limbs will twitch and the
balance and pose be in peril. With sufficient
practice it will not be difficult to remain in the
attitude fixed upon for the few minutes after
the curtain is Ufted. Impersonators should not
be afraid to breathe regularly, for this prevents
6irtificial rigidity.
CHARADES
One of the most popular indoor enterttdn-
ments for winter evenings, or indoor parties,
both with children and "grown-ups," is to be
found in charades. Not only do they af?ord
amusement to the audience, but the players
themselves obtain a good deal of fun from their
efforts to baffle those who are Ustening to them.
Suppose, for instance, that a " party " is
composed of some twenty people. About five
or six of them are selected to go outside, choose
a word, which can easilj' be split into syllables,
each making a word in itself. When they have
chosen their word they must go in and act
it, gi^'ing a different scene for each syllable, and
finally a scene for the whole word, which latter
the audience are required to guess when the
play is over.
The players must not waste too much time
in planning how best to act the words, or the
audience will show signs of impatience. This
can also be averted by the hostess arranging
for a musical or other little " stop-gap " to fill
up the time which must necessarily elapse
between the moment when the players retire
and their subsf^uent appearance.
Having thought of a little sketch which will
take in all the several parts of the word chosen,
the players arrange impromptu scenery and
start the first act, taking care to bring in the
first syllable, and yet not giving it undue
prominence. Tliis care must be observed all
the way through the charade, as the fun is
much grcattT when the listeners cannot guess
the word too easily.
If the word chosen is " Indignation," it is
split into three syllables - In-dig-nation.
These words having been acted, in the last
scene the complete word is brought in, and as
it is through this act the audirnce will listen
most carefully for a clue, the players, if they
wish to baffle them, should do their best to
bring in a variety of words with the same
number of syllables as those contained in the
word they are acting, in order to mislead the
listeners.
If preferred the various scenes need have no
connection at all with each other, a complete
little play being acted for each syllable and for
the complete word. This often proves the most
enjoyable method, and one that renders the
word much more difficult to giiess.
The more impromptu the organisation of
charades the more enjoyable they will prove.
The players should always " dress up " if
possible, table-cloths, bed-covers, shawls, and
scarves may be requisitioned ; the homelier the
materials to hand the more comical at times
the effect will be. In all cases good fun should
be aimed at, for charades are most successful
when played in a broadly comical spirit. This
applies in the main to impromptu charades,
for when they are prepared for a long time
beforehand as a feature of entertainment for
a party, they should be prepared with as much
care in regard to acting, staging, dress, and
other important details as is entailed in the
rehearsals and preparation of an ordinary play.
A stage manager should always be appointed,
preferably one who is quick to decide upon a
word, and who is adept in the planning out
of suitable scenes. The following words, being
easily subdivided, are suitable for charades, and
may serve as a guide to the selection of others :
Brace-let, care-ful, care-less, can-did, car-pet,
case-ment, dor-mouse, eye-glass, fire-work, grate-
ful, kid-nap, mis-take, night-mare, out-fit, sun-
shine, ac-ci-dent (axe-sea-dent), baron-et-oy
(baron-ate-sea), con -flag-ration, high-way-man,
in-spec-tor, night-in-gale.
Thus from the word " grateful " a very pretty
charade for children could be acted in this way : -
Scene I. - Cinderella is seen dressed in her rags,
gazing into the cinders in the grate. Presently
the shrill voice of one of her sisters is heard
calling " Cinderella, Cinderella ! " The sister
then comes into the room angrily and scolds
Cinderella, asking her why she is wasting her
time gazing into the grate, when she ought to
be helping her to dress for the ball. The sister
should wear a loose dressing wrap, and her
thin wisps of hair should be done up in curl
papers in grotesque fashion. Presently the
other sister comes in, also in grotesque deshabille,
and joins in rating Cinderella. Then the two
step-sisters begin to fight with each other (the
dialogue here can be made very amusing) until,
finally, Cinderella rises in disgust and follows
them into their room to help them dress for the
ball.
Scene II. - Ante-room of the ball-room in the
prince's house. Comical scene between Cinder-
ella's sisters, who have been obliged to sit out
most of the dances, and who cannot even get
into supper because the room is jull. They
discuss the mysterious princess who has arrived
at the ball and har wonderful glass slipper.
EECREATIONS
Suddenly one of the sisters exclaims, " Why,
what is the matter ? there is the princess alone
running away from the palace as fast as her
feet can carry her." The clock strikes twelve.
Scene III. - Cinderella's household once more.
The baron, his wife, Cinderella and her sisters
are all upon the scene. They discuss the pro-
clamation of the prince, declaring he shall marry
the girl whose foot the mysterious glass sUpper
will fit. Quarrelling takes place between the two
sisters as to who has the smaller foot. Baron
and liis wife join in the argument. Baron
declares that neither of them has so small a
foot as Cinderella. The proud sisters and their
mother now turn roimd and abuse both Cinder-
ella and the Baron. Herald's voice outside
proclaiming, "' Oyez, Oyez, make way for his
royal highness the prince." Prince enters
with herald - shoe is tried on first one sister and
then the o+her. They make comical endeavours
to get it to fit, but to no purpose. Then the
prince says, " Have you not another daughter ? "
Sisters reply contemptuously, " Oh, she is
only a little cinder slut ; it would be waste of
time to try it on her." Cinderella advances,
however, and asks for the shoe ; she sits down
whilst the herald tries it on her. It slips on
with the greatest ease. She stands up, throws
off her rags, and appears in the light dress of the
princess. Delight of the prince, who embraces
her, exclaiming, " I shall always be grateftd to
the little glass slipper."
PARLOUR GAMES
The parlour games here described are suitable
either for children's parties, for impromptu Httle
gatherings of young people, or for any quiet
evening in the family circle. It will be found,
as a rule, that amongst a number of young
" grown-ups " the simpler and more cliildish
the game the more the enjoyment to be derived
from it. I have known a game of " hunt the
slipper " keep a gathering of young people of
ages vaiying from sixteen to twenty-three
amused for over an hour. No game has
therefore seemed too simple for inclusion under
Ihe general heading of " Parloiu- Games."
Dumb Crambo. - This game can be made even
more amusing at times than charades, because
ni this case the word must be acted in dumb
'liow, and those who choose the word often
, make a point of choosing one which will call
Uipon all the ingenuity of the actors to repre-
sent it correctly without speaking. HaK of the
ji layers go out of the room whilst the remaining
' ;ilf think of a verb, such as weep, skip, fly, &c.
\Vhen they have chosen their word, one of their
number goes outside to the other players, giving
them a word which rhymes with the word which
they are to act ; thus, if the word chosen was
" drop," she could say it was a word that rhymed
with crop, and so on. With this clue the actors
529
must come in and act in dumb show the word
they think to be the right one. If they are
wrong, their audience hisses and they have to
go out again. If they have guessed right they
are clapped, and at once they take the place of
the others who have to go out and act the word
in their tm-n.
Forfeits. - There are several games which
entail the giving of forfeits, and as these are
always a source of imparalleled dehght for the
young people, the method of crying forfeits,
together with some of the favourite tasks im-
posed, will be described. Anything may be
given by way of forfeit - a handkerchief, ring,
bracelet, tie-pin, &c. The winner of the game,
or the person who has escaped the forfeit penalty,
takes charge of all the forfeits which have been
collected. She then sits down with the players
around her and chooses one of their number to
impose the penalties. The latter has to kneel
down with her face on the Imees of the guardian
of the forfeits, who holds up each article in
turn, saying, "Here's a pretty thing, and a
very pretty thing, and what is the owner of this
pretty thing to do ? "
The person who has to impose the tasks must
exercise her ingenuity in suggesting things which
will promote the most fun. Above all, should
she try to think out " catch " forfeits or tasks
which, through some ingenious turning of words,
will seem almost impossible at first sight to
perform, but which, when correctly interpreted,
will turn out to be quite simple. Some well-
known forfeits are : -
" To stand on one leg in one comer of the
roorn, sing in another, dance in another, and
cry in another."
" To bite two inches from the poker." Tlus is
a well-known " catch," and is done by snapping
your teeth as for a bite two inches away from
the poker. Many a player when set this task
has stood for a long time in bewildered per-
plexity to the hilarious enjoyment of the on-
lookers.
" Put two chairs together, take off your shoes
and jump over them." Another " catch " : to
do this put two chairs together, take off your
shoes and jump over the sfioes, not the chairs.
" Call your sweetheaxt's name up the chim-
ney."
" Place the poker against the floor so that
you cannot jump over it." Also a well-known
" catch " penalty : to do this place the poker
next the wall.
" Recite three verses, each one from a different
poem without stopping."
" Hop upon one foot tliree times round the
room."
" Put yourself out of the room through the
keyhole." Write your name on a slip of paper
and put it througli the keyhole.
" Kiss a book inside and outside without
opening it." Kiss the book first inside the
2h
530
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
room, then take it outside the room and kiss
'' ^^anslata into French a sent^co given by
each member of the company^ J^^Sy "^os^t
productive of great fun, as nov j
nonsensical sentences are given, but also sen
?en^ ^vWch are most difficult of translation,
e^D^allv by the elementary French scholar
eepeciau> u> " ^ -^ " the fire
"Stand upon the tire. vvuvc
nn a Diece of paper and stand upon it.
"' iSi the person you love best in the room.
This may be^ done by kissing your reflection
^"^^rS; of a donkey, a cow, a pig.
* "^wSz^ round the room blindfolded."
" Put out the fire in one minute. Write
" thefii-e " on a piece of paper and put it out
^^^raW forfeits will give indications ^ to
the kind of tasks that may be set Many
ingenious tasks may be thought out in he
home circle. The one chosen to ciy tne
Kts " shovdd always be an adept m calhng
them or else the fun will lag.
Musical Chairs is a very favourite game
f or clulchen's parties ; it is a game also which
s entied upoJ with zest by most jo-g PeoP e
upon any occasion when they ^^f themseKes
gathered together in any ")^"^^f % ,,^* ^^!
!ften been the means of turmng a duU even
ing into an extremely merry one. First of all
some one mvist be able to play the P-"- J^^J
need not be too particular as to the quai ty
of her playing, but the more at ease she is with
the Piano keys the greater will be the enjoyment
of the gamef for slS will rattle along when she
U expected lo stop playing, and Btop when she
:Seoted to pla'y.^o that the d^^gM -^0№-
fusion of the game will be increased to a rema k
able degree, whilst with a slower, besitatmg
Pianist the un would be apt to lag. A row of
E is arranged down the middle of the room
alternate chaL facing di"- ^ ^^han TSe
chairs must be one less in number than Uie
people who are playing. As soon as the music
starts the players must dance round and round
;?e^h^rs,\nd directly the music ceases each
player mu'st seat herself. Of -^--"^"^ ^^7"
is one chair short one of the players will be
left out'and the fun begins with the scrimmage
to obtain seats as soon as the music stops, lor
Lh player who is left out a cha.r is taken away
until there is only one chair l^^t. Of the f^o
people who remain to contest this chair the
?ne wh^ is first seated when the music stops
;"L the game. Sometimes musical chairs ,
played with forfeits, each player having to give
a forfeit as she falls out of the game, the winner
" callinc the forfeits " at the end.
&veo?muchfun' To each player is given a
pencil and a piece of paper, and the game is
played as follows : -
AU players are told to write down an adjective
that can be appUed to a gentleman. Havmg
done this they fold over the paper at the top
to liide what they have written. Then each
player hands her slip to the neighbour on her
left so that each receives a different slip to
write on. On this they nmst now write a
gentleman's name, after which they must pass
on the papers in the same manner as t>eforo
and this must go on until they have finished
all that is to be written. Consequences usually
run in the following order :-
Give an adjective applicable to a man.
Give a man's name.
Give an adjective descriptive of a woman.
Give a woman's name.
Say where they met.
Say what he said to her.
Say what she said to him.
Say what he gave her.
Say what she did with it.
Say what she gave him.
Say what he did with it.
Say what the consequences were.
Say what the world said.
When all these questions have been answered
the papers are opened and ^ead aloud, and it
can be imagined that, owing to their chang ng
hands so frequently and no single one of the
p?ayers^ing\ware what the others have said,
their contents are very funny. ^i"vprl
Literary Consequences.-This game is played
in a similar manner to Consequences, each
player Sg provided with pencil and paper
SnTin^ead of the name of a P-son .^^-^ №*
a book is taken. It is played as follows -
(1) Each player writes down the title ot a
book.
(2) The sub -title.
(3) The author.
(4) His collaborator.
(5) Wliere pubUshed.
(6) What the reviewers said about it.
(7) The consequences.
IS) Wliat the world said.
It can be well imagined that the sequence is
ant to be somewhat funny at times,
^composite Drawlng.-This is a game not
unlike consequences, only drawing must take
the place of writing. Each player is handed
a'iet of paper and pencil. On t^- ^^^^ ^^ ^
tho head of a man. wonrian. ^^^l^'.^'^.^^^^f 'j^^[.
fish Wlien finished, the paper is folded ovei
ctfuny to bide the drawing and^^en handed I
on to the player on the 1^^^, ,Tbf";,,''№S
is drawn, the paper is again ^^^d^^ "^^^^^^^'^
passed on, and the legs and feet are drawn^
VVhen the papers are opened out some very
amusing resSus -->' ''^ ,^7'^" Vle^ of a
head upon the body of a lady with the legs oi a
horse.
RECREATIONS
General Post, - This is a most amusing game
for a number of players. One of the party is
blindfolded and called the postman. Another
of the players directs the game, and is called
the postmaster-general ; the others are seated
round the room. The postmaster gives to each
player the name of a town - needless to say, these
names must be carefully remembered by all.
Then the game begins. The postmaster calls
out the names of various towns to which he
wishes to post a letter. The players who bear
the names of these towns must immediately
exchange seats. For instance, if he says, " I
wish to send a letter from London to Dublin,"
the players who have been named after these
towns must at once get up and change places
whilst the postman tries to take one of the
vacant chairs. If he is successful in this the
player whose seat he has taken must become
postman. When played with "zest this game
soon becomes a most enjoyable romp, which
can be entered into heartily by both young
and old.
Variations of Blind Man's Buff.- There are
many variations of this simple and amusing
game. As is generally known, the game which
earned this name originally is played by blind-
folding one of the players with a handkerchief
or scarf. All the players dance round the blind
man, running away from him when he gets
too near. The blind man must not only catch
one of them, but also be able to identify his
captive. If he can do this the latter must
take his turn at being blind man.
Another way of pla-^ing the game is to give
the blmd man two spoons. With these he must
feel his captive in order to identify him instead
of feeling with his hands. This, of course, makes
the task much more difficult.
In yet another version of the game the blind
man is made to stand in the centre of the room ;
he must have a stick in his hand. The players
form a ring, and dance around him until he
taps the gTound with his stick. Then he points
his stick towards one of the players, who has to
answer any question the blind man asks, and
the latter to guess his identity by his voice.
Needless to say, the players mast disgxiise their
voices as far as possible in order to baffle their
interlocutor. As soon as the latter has guessed
the name of the person whom he has questioned,
he can change places with the latter, who must
be " blind man " in his turn.
Musical Buff is yet another version of this
game. A person is stationed in each corner
of the apartment, then one of the party is
bhndfolded and led into the centre of the room.
The director of the game points to each of the
four in succession, and each says in a separate
clear tone the word " Come." Wlien the word
has been said by each in turn, the blind man
endeavom-s to find his way to.s-ards the person
who spoke last.
531
Proverbs.- One of the party retires while the
rest decide upon a well-known proverb. When
he returns, he stands in the centre of a semi-
cu-cle. Some one taps three times with a stick
and at the third tap each player shouts one
word of the proverb loudly and simultaneously.
This IS repeated three times, and it is amazing
how difficult it is to distinguish even the most
well-known proverb in the uproar.
Should one word give the key to the player
not m the secret, the individual who speaks it
takes his place. For instance, in the proverb
All is not gold that glitters," it may happen
that the word " glitters " provides the keynote,
iherefore, he or she who speaks it takes the
place of the one who guesses.
The proverb must contain as many words as
there are players, and each shouts only the one
word allotted to him.
Another way of playing the game is for the
person who has to guess the proverb to ask each
player m tuz-n a question. Each must introduce
in her answer a word from the proverb
The Game of Shadows.- A white sheet is
stretched against the wall, with a lamp im-
mediately before it. All other lights are ex-
tinguished. One of the company sits on a
chair or stool with eyes fixed on the sheet
Behind him the company files noiselessly, the
while he endeavours to identify them by means
ot the shadows silhouetted on the screen.
Simple disguises are allowable and increase
the fun. For example, a boy may don a girl's
hat, a girl a boy's ; or a skirt or shawl may be
draped over an Eton suit, thus conceaHng the
wearer's identity. The one whose shadow be-
trays her takes the place of the player who
identifies her.
Gardeners.- Two rows, headed by a chosen
captain, face each other. In turn they fire at
each other the names of vegetables, flowers, or
fruit beginning with the letter A, and using in
tiu-n the other letters of the alphabet- asparagus
artichokes, apples, &c. '
The players on each side set their wits to work
to aid their captain when he shows signs of
faltering. They are not allowed to speak aloud,
their promptings being given in whispers, and
this IS where the fun comes in, for, when one
IS excited and eager to give a word, it is very
difficult to remember to whisper, especially when
placed at the tail of the line.
When a gardener and his side pause to re-
member a word the opposite side counts twenty
slowly ; if at the end of that time their opponents
still fail, they forfeit a man. Tlio game goes
on until one captain has secured his adversaries'
followers. Should any one except the leaders
speak aloud, ho or she is obliged to cross to the
other party.
When a captain surrenders he is obliged to go
to the end of the line, and the next man takes
his place and responsibilities.
532
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Tidings. - Each player adopts some trade or
profession. One member reads out the social
gossip from a daily paper. \Vlien he pauses
and points at one of the rest, that one must
reply quickly some sentence regarding liis call-
ing or the stock ho sells, for instance -
Reader. - '-The ball that took place at the
residence of the Hon. iMrs. Mortimer last evening
was distinguished by the presence of His Majesty
the I^ng.
•" A number of d6butantes were present, the
majority of whom were dressed in - " Here the
reader glances at the Cfirpenter, who answers,
" Shavings." ^^
Reader - " Their headgear consisted of
(glances at the fruiterer) -
Fruiterer - " Pine-apples."
Reader - " Their jewels were necklaces "
(glances at the ironmonger) -
Jrontnonger - " Of nails."
Reader - " Tlie dancing took place in - "
Tobacconist - " A cigar box."
Reader - " The walls of which were richly
decorated with - "
Lawyer - " Red tape."
Reader - " The band was composed of forty
instruments all - "
Doctor - " Medicine bottles."
Repder - " His ^Majesty's first partner was - "
Fishmonger - " A whiting."
Reader - " \Vho was most becomingly clad
in - "
Chemist - " Silver scales."
Reader - " Her bouquet was composed of - "
Draper - " Reels of cotton."
Reader - " And her tiny feet were cased in - "
Mason - " Bricks."
Reader - " Her dancing was as light as - "
Plumber - " A gas escape."
Reader - " And her charming smiles showed
to view a perfect set of - "
Bootmaker - " Black heels."
It can be imagined from this example
the merriment and laughter similar answers
evoke.
The Lawyer. - The party is divided into two
rows, through which walks the lawyer. He asks
a number of questions, and the answers may
contain any words except " yes," " no,"
" white," " black."
The person to whom ho puts his query does
not reply, but the one immediately opposite
does.
The lawyer exchanges places with the one
who makes the first mistake.
An Example
Laioyer (pointing to Mary) - " Your hair is
very long ; is it your own ? "
Tom opposite bawls, " False."
To Jessie - " Do these pretty boots pinch
your feet ? "
Jack - " Of course, they are two sizes too
small."
To John - " Did you use your razor this
morning 1 "
Jane - " He hasn't any hair to cut."
To Timothy - " Is your nurse waiting to put
you to bed ? "
Elsie - " Naturally ; he goes to bed at seven."
To Dick - " What would you like on your
next birthday ? "
Ethel - " A rattle."
To James - " Wliat is your favourite pas-
time ? "
jilice - " Putting dolly to bed."
To Freda - " What is the colour of your face ? "
Andrew (afraid to say " white " for fear of
forfeit) - " Green."
The Lover's Coming. - All the members of the
party save one are massed together at the end
of the room. The leader walks close to them,
and throws a light rubber ball towards any
person she likes.
The person must be prepared to catch the
ball. As the leader throws it she accompanies
the action with these words, " My lover comes
thus " - the ball is tossed in a way to illustrate
the manner of the supposed lover. The thrower
terminates her sentence by a letter of the
alphabet. The one to whom the ball is thrown
has to provide an adjective beginning with the
given letter as she catches the ball, thus : -
Leader - " My lover comes g " (throws ball).
Catcher - " Gaily " (tosses ball back).
Leader - " My lover comes h."
Catcher - " Hopping."
Leader - " My lover comes o."
Catcher - " One-eyed."
Leader - " My lover comes s."
Catcher - " Smirking."
Excitement is caused by the difficulty in
producing a word at a moment's notice an"l
being ready to catch the ball at the same time.
Telegrams. - Each player is provided with
paper and pencil, upon which any twelve letters
are written, with sufficient space lelt between
for words.
The leader gives a topic such as a wedding,
accident, invitation, &c. A watch is placed on
the table, and from ten to fifteen minutes given,
during which each player concocts a telegram
from the letters suppUed by his left-hand
neighbour.
At a signal the telegrams are thrust under a
hat and read out in turn by the leader.
Example 1. - Topic : a sensational robbery.
S. B. O. B.
H. M. J. P.
K. I. P. H.
From these letters may bo.devised the following
telegram : - " Serious burglary ; one box hairpins
missing. Jane prostrate ; kindly inform police
- Henry."
RECREATIONS
533
Example 2. - Topio : a catastrophe.
C.
P.
B.
A.
B.
Q.
S.
c.
D.
D.
A.
W.
" Cat ate Sunday dinner. Please bring cheese
and bread ; quite distracted - Wifie."
The funnier the telegram, the greater the
laughter when it is read out.
The Fan Fight. - The players divide into two
lines. A piece of tape is stretched across the
room, and before every two plaj'^ers a feather
is placed. Each player possesses a Japanese fan,
and the object is to lift the feather and waft
it on to a stretch of newspaper, which marks
the opponents' den.
The dens are guarded by goalkeepers, also
armed with fans, and their business is a lively
one.
Feathers must not be blown or pushed with
the hand, as happens sometimes when the
excitement of the game makes one forgetful
of all else but the threatening direction the
feather is taking. Only the fan is to be used.
The feathers should be of different colours.
When one of a side succeeds in driving a feather
into the opposite den, he and his adversary
retire from the game, but naturally they share
the prevailing excitement and watch every
movement of their respective sides, cheering
and encouraging them to win.
When the feathers belonging to one side are
all captured in a den, the other side is con-
queror.
Magic Hieroglyphics. - For this seemingly
mysterious achievement a confederate is required.
He must know that -
A is shown by one tap beca'ose it is the first
vowel.
E is shown by two taps because it is the second
vowel.
I is shown by three taps because it is the third
vowel.
O is shown by four taps because it is the fourth
vowel.
U is shown by five taps because it is the fifth
vowel.
Consonants are revealed by means of sentences,
which the wizard speaks in a natural and un-
ostentatious manner.
The confederate is banished from the room
while the party decide upon the word he shall
be called upon to guess. Monosyllables are
preferable.
When he returns the wizard is armed with
a wand, by means of which he proceeds to make
imaginary pictures on the carpet.
Supposing the word to bo " orange." He begins
with four taps, and the confederate, who is all
attention, knows that Lhe word begins with
the fourth vowel, O.
The wizard, flourishing his wand, remarks with
extreme innocence : -
" Rather fatiguing work, as you perceive."
The confederate says to himself R.
One tap is the next sound for A.
And some sentence such a.s -
" No one can imagine the mental strain,"
suppUes the letter N to his alert companion.
The wizard's query, voiced in a mocking tone -
" Getting near it ? " supplies the letter G.
A few more imaginary pictures, and two taps,
which represent the letter E, and the confede-
rate with an air of profound relief wipes his
brow and declares confidentially that the word
is " orange."
Result. - The company applaud loudly, and
are thoroughly mystified.
The Auction Game. - This is a most fascinating
resource for a wet wintry afternoon, and its
preparations are interesting enough to keep a
whole houseful of young folk occupied and
amused. A large piece of cardboard is cut into
twenty-five squares, and on each is pasted a
pictiu-e of some article taken from advertisements
in old newspapers, magazines, or catalogues.
The pictiu-es are numbered, and on the back a
price in keeping with the article is written.
The more variety there is among the stock
for sale the better. It may contain anything
from a thoroughbred Persian to a set of nine-
pins, and the prices may be copied from tho
catalogues, &c.
Wlien this is done, a mint of paper or card-
board money is manufactured. The range of
coin corresponds to the prices of the articles.
Should the most expensive of these be marked
£100, the paper money must include that
amount. Upon each disc of cardboard is
written its value.
Tlie guests ha\^ng arrived, the capital is
divided among them in equal portions. If there
has been no time to manufacture the coin,
imitation money can be purchased quite cheaply,
and this lends a greater reality to the game.
The first thing is to secure an auctioneer
amongst the party, who possesses a ready flow
of language, and is not troubled by shyness.
An amiable uncle or other grown-up relative
u-ill do capitally.
The auctioneer stands on a chair or stool
and cries out the article before him, treating it
as if it were real.
He is provided with a hammer, and the com-
pany begin an eager bidding for the tiling that
takes their fancy.
Tlie players, as may be expected, are as
anxious as people in a real auction to obtain
what they covet at the lowest price possible.
Should a member offer more than he is able
to pay, and succeed in being the last to name
the highest price, he pays a forfeit of threepence
to each of the other buyers, and the article is
again placed on the auctioneer's table.
534
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The winner is the indi\-idual who has got
tlie best value for lus money, and has the most
capital in hand by the time the twenty-fivo
articles are sold.
It is a good plan to offer prizes- a good one
for the discreet and careful buyer, and a
" booby " for the poor foolish spendthrift, who
has nothing to show at the end of the game.
Excitement and eagerness are increased by
the cry of the auctioneer, " Going, going, gone,"
and the beat of lus hammer.
If he is able to introduce funny narratives
concerning the articles into his harangue, so
much the better.
For instance, a pair of boots, fashioned from
the corpse of the King of Prussia's pet calf,
and the black kid gloves which King Charles
II. wore at the funeral of liis great-aunt ; the
mouse-trap that once held prisoner a rodent
of aristocratic lineage and purple blood; the
ash-tray into which the biu-nt cigar of Peter
the Great is supposed to have fallen - all should
go at a lugh price.
The Whistle, another excellent game, is
played in the following manner : -
One of the company is blindfolded, and a
long ribbon, through which is threaded a whistle,
is pinned to his back, and he is told that he
musi catch the blower and discover the whistle.
Of course he has no idea that it is on his own
person.
He is swung into the centre of the room, and
his playmates make surreptitious dives at the
whistle and raise it to their lips, taking care
not to stretch the ribbon so that he will feel
the tug.
Perfect silence should bo maintained by those
eddying round him ; they move on tip-toe,
with bated breath, but now and then sounds of
stifled laughter are heard.
The " blind " man seeks liigh and low for
the possessor of the whistle, his ears strained
to catch the direction of the sound. He may
succeed in embracing a youth or damsel, but his
search round the neck, waist, or in her fingers
for the missing whistle is futile.
It will be long ere ho guesses the secret, if he
ever does, and the delight of young and old
at his expense is hilarious.
The Poet's Comer. - Tliis is an excellent and
ingenious pastime for young men and women
who have out-grown the old-world games of
" Hunt the Slipper " and " Hide and Sock."
The " poets " are each given a slip of paper
and pencil, at the head of which they write
any question they like. Wlien this is written,
the papers are folded, so that the sentence is
concealed and passed on to the left-hand
neighbour, who, without looking at the question,
writes any word she likes beneath so long as it
is a noim. This is again concealed and passed
to a third party, who must compose a rh>-thm
or stanza, which includes both question and
noim. As these have no relation to each other,
some ingenuity is needed to link the two in a
verse.
For example, suppose the question given is
as follows : -
Qxiestion - " What is the time ? "
Noun - " Chair."
Verse
" What is the time ? " Grandfather asks.
Tliis is one of the pleasant tasks
He sets the cliildren from his chair.
And round eyes at the timepiece stare.
I/ittle Alice reads the time -
The old clock helps her, and chimes out nine.
Or-
Question - " Wliat is your age ? "
ISloun - " Cigar."
Name Divinations.- This is a clever puzzle
game, which seems to the beholder to be steeped
fn magic and mystery. In order to discover
the name or birthplace of a person, the following
table of five columns is necessary : -
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
A
B
D
H
P
C
C
E
I
Q
E
F
F
J
R
G
G
G
K
S
I
J
L
L
T
K
K
M
M
U
M
N
N
N
V
O
O
0
O
w
Q
R
T
X
X
s
S
U
z
Y
u
V
V
Y
Z
w
w
w
Y
z
The manipulator shows the table to t'.a
individual whose name he wishes to discover,
asking him to point out the column ur columns
that contain the initial letter. A glance at the
table will show that if it is in only one colum!.
it must be the top letter. Should it be found
to be in more than one, it is discovered by
adding the first letters of the columns in which
it is stated to be, the sum supplying the alpha-
betical position of the letter. For example,
take the name " Elizabeth."
Elizabeth glancf^s at the table and looks for
the columns in which her initial letter occurs.
It is obvious that she must be careful not to
overlook this repetition. She informs you that
it is to be found in columns I and 3. Now, the
columns mentioned are topped by the letters
A and D, which are the first and fourth letters
of the alphabet. Add those together and you
get 5. E is the fifth letter. In case you forget
it, write it on a slip of paper. The next letter,
Elizabeth informs you, occurs in columns 3 and
4. These are headed by D and H = 4-j-8=12.
RECREATIONS
635
Tlie twelfth letter is L. Columns 1 and 4 contain
I, headed bj' A and H= 1 + 8 = 9. The ninth
letter is I. Z is found in columns 2 and 4 and 5,
headed by B, H and ? = 2 + 8+ 16 = 26. The
twenty-sixth letter is Z. The next letter exists
only in column No. 1, therefore it is A. The
next letter exists only in column No. 1, therefore
it is B. The next letter exists only in columns
1 and 3. The top letters of these, A and D =
1+4=5. The fifth letter is E.
T is found in columns 3 and 5. Top letters
D and P = 4+16 = 20. The twentieth letter is
T.
H occm's in column 4, thei'efore it is the top
letter, H.
Result - Elizabeth.
Wizard Photography. - The wizard, who pos-
sesses a confederate, is banished from the room.
During his absence the latter produces a piece
of paper, and declares his intention of taking a
photograph of any individual among the com-
pany upon it, in such a manner that it shall
be visible to the wizard alone, who, upon
examining it closely, will call out the name of
the original.
Naturally every one considers that this must
be quite an impossible proceeding, and for that
reason every one becomes very curious and
watchful, making up his mind to discover the
trick.
The confederate fixes upon one of the company,
poses her to his satisfaction, tells her not to
look grave, &c., just as professional photographers
do, and when she is quite ready and gazing
at the sheet of paper, which is held out in the
manipulator's left hand, he passes his right over
it, snaps his fingers, and tells her that the wonder
is accomplished.
He hastens to wrap the " plate " in his
handkercliief, and, calling in the wizard, hands
it to him, retiring to a seat where the latter
can observe him without appearing to do so.
The wizard, looking very mysterious and wise,
bids the company maintain an unbroken silence
while he unwraps and examines the " plate."
His confederate meanwhile imitates as nearly
as possible the position of the original of the
photograph.
Should she cross her feet, toss back her hair,
1 ost her chin on her hand, (jr perform anj' other
trivial action, the confederate does the same,
quite naturally so as not to aroiise any sus-
picion or notice. All attention being con-
(lontrated on the wizard, his actions will not be
observed by any one save the manipulator,
who is led by the position he assumes to guess
the individual whose likeness on the " plate "
is supposed to be visible to him alone.
Few would realise until they try the game
the wonder and admiration of the guests for the
wizard who successfully achieves his purpose, and
the means employed an seldom, if ever, dis-
covered.
The Missing Ring. - A plain cwtain ring is
tlireaded through a piece of tape or ribbon,
knotted at the ends. The guests form a circle
round a central figure. The ring is passed
swiftly along through hands gi'ipping the tape,
wliile the master of ceremonies counts one, two.
At three, all fists must be threaded by the
tape and perfectly motionless, and the man in
the centre, who is permitted to observe the
circuit of the ring, is called upon to say which
person h"is possession of it. Should he guess
rightly, he changes places with the individual -
Apples and Nuts. - Slix a number of hazel nuta
and apples together on a table removed from
the wall ; hand a tea-spoon and table knife to
each of the guests. Bid them at a given signal
move to the table, with the knife in the right
hand, the spoon in the left, and scoop up one
apple and one nut. This is no easy matter on
a smooth surface, for the probabihty is that
the fruit and nuts will roll to the floor.
When they are secured, they must be conveyed
to a dish at the other end of the room. He
who performs this feat successfully the most
times wins, and the apples and nuts are awarded
him as a prize.
Amiable Dog. - The party is divided into two
lines. Tlie first player begins by saying, " Our
Httle dog is amiable." The first player on the
opposite side must answer quickly with another
adjective beginning with the same letter thus,
" Our httle dog is artful." Meanwhile, the first
player counts ten. If in that time his opponent
fails to respond, he is obliged to go over to the
opposite rank. Other letters of the alphabet may
be used. The side that gains all the " men "
wins.
Bouts Rim6s. - This is a very amusing writing
game. The players are provided -vnth pencils and
paper and each one is required to wTite down a
line of poetry. After this is done the paper is
folded down, but the last word of the hne is
written under the fold, so that it can be seen
by the next person who has the shp. The
latter must make her line of poetry rhyme with
this word. As can well be imagined, the verses
when complete nearly always make most comical
reading.
Waxworks. - This is a game dearly loved by
the little ones. The leader of the game must
arrange all the others in various positions, giving
them different characters or actions to represent.
Thus one may be told to represent a Chinese
mandarin. She will squat on the floor, her
hands raised above her head. A couple of
players will be placed in position for a waltz,
others may be told off to represent marionettes,
well-known advertisement pictm-es, cat ohtising
a mouse, &c., &o. When the groups are all
arranged, the director of the game goes to the
piano and begins to play a lively air. As soon
as the music starts the waxworks must move
into action - the nodding mandarin begins to
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
53G
nod, the dancers to dance, the marionettes to
act, the oat to chase the mouse, &c., &c. Wlien
the music stops they must at once relapse into
immobiUty. No matter wliat their position at
the time, the more difficult it is to at once
become motionless, and the more ridiculous the
attitudes of the various players when the music
stops, the more fun the game will be. Those
who do not stop at once with the music must
pay a forfeit. Sometimes in playing tliis game
the players are divided into two parties, one
party of players helping to pose the others for
their parts and keeping watch in regard to those
who are subject to forfeits, and helping the
leader in this way. When the players are very
numerous this is decidedly the better method
to adopt.
Coflee-Pot.- One of the players goes out of the
room whilst the remainder choose a word which
has two meanings, such as " can," which can
be used in the sense of " can " the verb and
"• can " the noun. When they have chosen the
word the player comes in and asks each of
the company a nimaber of questions in his
endeavour to guess the word. The word coffee-
pot has to be vised in the answer instead of the
word selected, thus if "can" were the word
selected and the answer were " I cannot do
BO," the player should reply, " I coffee-pot not
do BO."
CHRISTMAS PARTIES
At Christmas parties, at which guests of all
ages are found, it is sometimes a perplexing
riddle to the hostess to know how to entertain
them all. Musical items which may deUght
the older members of the company may only
serve to render younger folk restless and d\jll,
and dancing is not always possible in rooms
of limited size. iMoreover, there are still many
young folk who are unable to set their feet
nimbly to waltz or two-step, and would much
prefer a romp to whirling round in time to a
measure.
Self-consciousness and shyness are usually
very evident when the party enters the drawing-
room, and this coating of ice, if not thawed
quickly, will rapidly freeze into impenetrable
restraint and gloom. At such times a good
game, quickly organised, is invaluable. The
rules B);ould be explained by the hostess in so
simple a manner that the youngest person can
follow them, and everything necessary should
be arranged beforehand to avoid awkward delays
and pauses.
The hostess can make her selection of games
from those detailed in the list of indoor amuse-
ments. Let the revels be of the simplest.
" Musical Chairs " and " Hunt the Slipper "
are great favourites with the children - any
game which entails the crying of forfeits are
also liighly appreciated. A feature should
always bo mswJe of a Christmas tree and the dis-
tribution of toys. This may bo done in many
ways. Either one of the grown-ups could dress
up as Father Christmas in the trsKlitional red
robe, a long wlute wig and beard, and hand the
presents to the little guests, or else the gifts
could be distributed by lottery. For this each
article upon the tree should have a ticket pinned
to it on which a number is written. Duplicates
of these tickets should be placed into a bag,
and each little guest should be asked to draw
a nvunber, receiving the gift to which the ntimber
he or she has drawn corresponds. Plenty of
excitement attends this method of distributing
Christmas presents. Then the presents may be
obtained by means of "lucky dips" in the
bran tub. For this a large tub is half filled
with bran in which the various gifts are hidden,
and each httle guest is allowed a " dip," becoming
the proud possessor of whatever gift he or she
withdraws.
The Christmas Postman. - Another novel man-
ner of distributing Christmas presents is the
following : -
Each gift is tied up in a neat brown-paper
parcel upon which is written the name of the
child to whom it is to be given. One of the
elder children of the hostess is dressed up as
a postman carrying a big sack containing the
gifts over his shoulder. After tea, at the time
arranged for the gift distribution, all the Uttle
guests are assembled together. The child who
is to enact the role of postman is taken outside
and dressed up for the part. Presently there
is a loud rat-tat at the door- a postman s
knock. The hostess goes to answer the door
and comes back saying, " The postman wishes
to see I^Iiss X." The little guest bearmg the
name mentioned is led outside and the door
closed behind her. The postman then hands
her the parcel containing her gift, and she comes
back into the room again all excitement and
curiosity until she reaches her place and other
eager fingers help her to undo the string and
find out what the parcel contains. Then comes
another rat-tat and another little guest is asked
for, and so on until all the presents are dis-
tributed.
Decorating the Christmas Tree is a labour ot
love with the grown-ups. The tree should be
as large a one as possible and firmly planted in
a small wooden tub painted green. The space
immediately round the tree should be kept
clear by an impromptu partition consisting of
four posts connected by a rope or chain. This
will prevent the little ones getting too close to
it when the candles are lighted, and obviate
any risk of accident by fire. All risks in this
direction should be minimised as far as possible.
Many a children's party has ended in disaster
through neglect of this all-important precaution.
No romping of any kind should be allowed whilst
the present distribution is taking place. Indeed
RECREATIONS
537
it is better to make a rule that the little guests
should be seated where they may obtain a good
view of the tree, and forms should be arranged
opposite, but not too near the tree for this
purpose. There should always be a fairy queen
doll in a white and gold or white and silver
spangled dress at the top of the tree. With
the little girls this proves to be the most coveted
present - ^many a little heart beats high in
anticipation of winning so pleasing a gift. The
heavier gifts should not hang from the tree,
but should be arranged neatly along the top of
the tub in which the Christmas tree stands. The
decoration of the tree itself should be as light
and bright as possible. Plenty of golden and
silver balls and other ornaments sold specially
for the purpose should adorn its branches, such as
Father Christmases filled with sweets, bon-bons,
Christmas stockings, flags, &c., &c. Boxes of
Christmas-tree ornaments may be obtained from
most large stores and sweet shops from Is.
each and upwards according to quality. Pieces
of cotton wool resting lightly upon the branches
give a very pretty " snow-flake " effect, but
here again the utmost care must be taken that
they are not placed anywhere near the candles,
as cotton wool is most inflammable. A penny
box of frosting should also be brought into
requisition and sprinkled upon the branches of
the tree. This will give a most pretty shining
effect when the candles are Ughted. A Christmas
tree is by no means an expensive item if the orna-
ments and gifts are chosen with care and dis-
cretion. Little things, however simple, please
little people. It is the excitement of having
gifts distributed in the manner characteristic
of the Christmas season which appeals to them,
and not the value of the gifts themselves.
Some Novel Tea-Parties. - There are a ntunber
of novel and enjoyable little functions that
may be planned by those whose means are
limited, yet who are obliged to make some
return for hospitaUty received. " The Adver-
tisement Tea " is one of the most entertaining
of these, and its preparation does not entail
much trouble. A large number of pictorial
advertisements should be neatly cut from
magazines and other periodicals. All letter-
press of any kind which might serve as a clue
to the name of the jidvortiser should be cut
away from the pictures, wliich should be neatly
pinned to the wall in a way that will not damage
the wall-paper. Each advertisement should be
numbered. After tea the guests should be
taken into the room where the pictures are
displayed, and seats should be arranged for
the players in such a way that each one will
be ablo to have a good view of them. Strict
silence should be enjoined, and to each player
must be handed a slip of paper and a pencil
on which she must mark down the number of
each picture, writing aftjr it the name of the
advertisement which the pictm-e represents.
Two prizes should be given - one for the lady
and one for the gentleman who puts down the
highest number of correct names.
Book Teas. - These are always entertain-
ing functions. Tlaey can be given in a variety
of ways, one of the most amusing and the least
expensive of which is the following method : -
In each letter of invitation it should be
explained that a book tea is to be given under
the following conditions : -
(1) Each guest must illustrate the name of
a book by some accessory or ornament to his
or lier dress.
(2) No accessory must cost more than a
shilling.
(3) Two prizes to be given - one lady's prize
and one gentleman's prize for the most original
idea for illustrating a title.
(4) Each guest must hand to the hostess a
slip of paper upon which is written the name
of the book she is supposed to represent.
When all the guests have arrived, the hostess
gives each a number to pin on the front of her
dress. She then bids them all be seated, and,
after enjoining strict silence, asks them to each
wTite down upon a list the names of the books
represented, after the number of each im-
personator. This must be done in quarter of
an hour, and the papers handed in to the
hostess. After tea the different lists are corai-
pared with the names upon the Ust of the
hostess, and the guest who has made the greatest
number of correct solutions wins the " guessing "
prize, which is awarded at the same time as the
prize for the most original idea.
Upon arrival each guest must be shown
into a dressing-room in order to dress for the
part.
The following are instances of some successful
methods of title illustration adopted at one
of these teas : -
One guest represented " The Lilac Simbonnet,"
by Crockett, by wearing a lilac sunbonnet.
Another came as " Vanity Fair." She carried
in one hand a looking-glass, her cheeks were
rouged, and a powder piaff dangled from a
chain round her neck.
Another came as " The Scarlet Letter," by
N. Hawthorne. An enormous " L " cut out in
scarlet paper was pinned to the front of her
bodice.
Some hostesses make it a stipulation that
only " new books " must be represented. Need-
less to say, a good knowledge of books is one
of the essentials to winning the " guessing "
prize.
Book teas can also be given for children. The
titles should, of course, in this case be illustrative
of children's books.
General Knowledge. - Upon a table in one of
the reception rooms arrange plates containing
a sample of some household commodity, such
as ground rice, starch, arrowroot, flour, &o.
538
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
A ticket beanng a number should be placed upon
each plate.
After t a piece of paix>r, and ask them to write down
the correct name of each art iclo after the number
of the plate whicli contains it. But they must
on xio account taste the article ; they may only
smell it. It is surprising how difficult it is to
guess correctly by smell and touch only, and
the game becomes a very interesting one indeed.
A prize is awarded to the person who guesses
the largest nvunber of the articles correctlj'.
TELLING FORTUNES BY CARDS AND DICE
There is no more amusing diversion for a
frivolous half-hoiu-'s entertainment than that of
fortune-telling by cards. Young or old enjoy
it, and with a ready tongue the combinations
presented may be so varied that quite sur-
prisingly good predictions can be made.
Surround the whole business with as much
mystery as possible. Insist that all shuffling
be done by the subject himself, and that cutting
is always carried out with the left hand.
Learn the meanings of the cards by heart.
This is not difficult, and by doing so one is
enabled to tell a fortune quickly - always a
moie impressive proceeding than telUng it card
by card.
These are the generally accepted meanings
of the cards : -
Clubs. - Ace of Clubs, wealth and prosperity.
King of Clubs, upright, affectionate. Queen of
Clubs, deeply in love. Knave of Clubs, generous
and sincere. Ten of Clubs, o fortune from an
unexpected quarter. Nine of Clubs, obstinacy ;
disputes with friends. Eight of Clubs, a love of
money. Seven of Clubs, fortune and great happi-
ness. Six of Clubs, a lucrative partnership. Five
of Clubs, marriage with a wealthy person. Foixr
of Clubs, inconstancy. Three of Clubs, a second
or third marriage. Two of Clubs, opposition.
Spades. - Ace of Spades, a love affair ; if
reversed, a death. King of Spades, an ambitious
person. Queen of Spades, o treacherous friend.
Knave of Spades, indolent, but well-meaning.
Ten of spades, an unlucky card. Nine of spades,
the worst card in the pack ; sickness, or loss of
fortune. Eight of Spades, opposition from
friends. Seven of Spades, sorrow. Six of
Spades, great fortune. Five of Spades, success ;
a happy marriage. Four of Spades, illness ;
small loss of money. Three of Spades, an un-
fortunate marriage. Two of Spades, a death.
Hearts. - Ace of Hearts, pleasure ; if with
Spades, quarrelling ; if with Diamwids, news of
an absent friend ; if tvith Clubs, merry-making.
King of Hearts, nice, but hasty and passionate.
Queen of hearts, fair, affectionate. Knave of
Hearts, the subjecVs dearest friend. Ten of
Hearts, the antidote of bad cards that lie near
it, but confirming the good. Nine of Hearts,
wealth ; this is also the wish card. Eight of
Hearts, feasting and merry-making. Seven of
Hearts, fickle. Six of Hearts, generous, easily
imposed upon. Five of Hearts, wavcrer ; change-
able. Four of Hearts, marriage late in life.
Three of Hearts, imprudent ; hot-headed action,
which has disastrous consequences. Two of
Hearts, extraordinary success and good fortune.
Diamonds. - Ace of Diamonds, o letter ; the
card next to it will indicate its nature. King
of Diamonds, hot-tempered. Queen of Diamonds,
a coquette. Knave of Diamonds, a selfish person.
Ten of Diamonds, money. Nine of Diamonds,
o roving person. Eight of Diamonds, marriage
late in life. Seven of Diamonds, a gambler.
Six of Diamonds, early marriage. Five of
Diamonds, friendship. Four of Diamonds, tin-
happy marriage. Three of Diamonds, quarrels,
law-suits, and disagreements. Two of Diamonds,
a serious love affair.
There are two effective ways of fortune-
telling.
For the first, ask yovu* subject to shuffle the
cards very thoroughly and to wish all the time.
Then cut them into tlu-ee piles with the left
hand. Should the wish card (the Nine of
Hearts) be one of those cut, it is a lucky
omen.
Notice two other cards and their possible
bearing on the wish. Now, after lifting the
cards and putting them together with the left
hand, proceed to divide them into piles in this
fashion -
Tlie first pile is to yourself. TTie second, to the
house. The third, to your wish. The fourth,
what you do expect. The fifth, what you don't
expect. The sixth, sure to come true. The
seventh foretells the happenings of to-night.
Arrange these piles, as you deal out the cards
one by one, in a semicircle. Then proceed to
read them off by their meanings.
Another and rather more complicated method
is to ask the person whose fortune in being told
wliich Iving he will be (if it is a woman, one
would naturally ask which Queen).
After the wishing has been done as before,
the fortune-teller lays out the cards in rows -
seven in a row.
To read the fortune the teller must start from
the King or Queen chosen, counting seven from
him or her in every case.
The King or Queen of the same suit will always
be the lover or sweetheart of the one whose
fortune is being told, and the Knave being
their thoughts, it is, of course, quite easy to
discover their feelings.
It is rather a good plan to write the meaning
of the cards on an old pack. By using this a
few times a rapid flow of ideas will much more
rcacUly be induced. It might be mentioned that
a too strict adherence to rule is by no means
either necessary or desirable in fortune-telling.
Tell what the combination of cards suggests
RECREATIONS
539
to you - quite irrespective of the exact meaning
of each - and you will be infinitely more amusing
and obtain much greater fame as a v^dzard.
A Throw of the Dice. - Although forecasting
of the future from dice is one of the most ancient
methods of prediction, it is curiously enough
almost unknown in modern days. For tliis
reason it is of special value to the home enter-
tainer, and will prove infinitely simpler than
the cards, the meanings being easier to learn
as well as fewer in number.
First chalk a magic circle on the table, then
obtain a small cup or box to shake the dice in.
Throe dice only should be used.
The person whose future is at stake must
shake and cast the dice in the circle. This,
as in card fortune-telling, should be done with
the left hand.
Three tells you of an approaching accident ;
four, a rise in your position ; five, that you
will make the acquaintance of one who will
be a friend ; six, predicts loss ; seven, a scandal ;
eight, a reproach that is not undeserved ;
nine, a wedding ; ten, a christening ; eleven,
trouble for one you love ; twelve, an important
letter ; thirteen, tears ; fourteen, beware of an
enemy ; fifteen, good luck and happiness ;
sixteen, a journey ; seventeen, a water journey ;
three sixes, or eighteen points, is a very good
sign. It means great profit in business, or
something the person wishes for very much.
FORTUNE-TELLING BY DOMINOES
A fairly unique accomplishment is to reveal
the future by the aid of dominoes, and there is
something sufiiciently fascinating and mysterious
about this mode of revelation to fill the un-
initiated with awe at the powers of the exponent.
Each small oblong has its secret meaning
by which some happening vital to the subject
is illustrated. It is a matter of little difficulty
to commit these to memory ; and in this, as in
other methods of divination, the fundamental
principle is that of comparison and calculation.
The dominoes used range from double-six to
double-blank, and by these are symbolised the
various vicissitudes of fate likely to befall man-
kind. The exponent places his paraphernalia
upon the table, and, having turned them with
their black spots facing the surface, proceeds
to shuffle them. When this is done, the subject
is requested to draw three pieces, one at a time.
Between the choice of each the dominoes are
shuffled.
The first supplies an impression ; should it
be drawn a second time, the impression becomes
a conviction. The third, however, may lessen
or wholly contradict its degree of importance,
and this is where calculation and comparison in
blending the signs are < ssential to a successful
justification and interpretation of these symbols.
Double-six is an emblem of matrimonial
happiness and financial prosperity.
Six- five is almost equally fortunate. Perse-
verance and concentration are rewarded by
ultimate success.
Six-jour implies a comfortable income, and
secures happiness in marriage.
Six-three demonstrates that fate smiles upon
the love and marriage of the subject.
Six-two. - Prudence, hard work, and a certain
amount of good luck, or exposure and shame
for any wrong -doing.
Six-one promises two marriages to the yovmg
subject, the first of which will not be as happy
as the second. Should the subject be of middle
age, this domino foretells the speedy arrival of
good things, and the fact that he or she will
never be loft lonely and uncared for.
Six-blank is, alas, a sign of great trouble -
sickness, death, or heavy money losses.
Double-five presages that all achievements will
be rewarded with a large amount of success,
but inordinate wealth is not prophesied.
Five-four is almost as unfortunate a draw as
six-blank. Should a young girl lift it, it means
that her future husband will be poor and
leave her a widow. Further, he may be
of extravagant disposition, in spite of his
poverty.
Five-three indicates a tranquil and contented
existence. Sufficient money and matrimonial
affection of moderate strength, the couple being
incapable of passionate devotion.
Five-two conveys a warning that love and
marriage are destined to an unhappy termination.
Five-one portends social popularity, but
financial worries and losses.
Five-blank is supposed to demonstrate ego-
tistical and avariciovis characteristics, tendencies
to swindling and intrigues, also a warning to
remain unmarried.
Double-four. - The man who earns his liveli-
hood by manual labovu* may regard this domino
as a sign of future security and prosperity, but
to him whose profession needs mental acliieve-
ment it is rather disastrous. Troubles and
disappointments await liim.
Four-three. - Matrimony and moderate income.
Four-two proclaims an early marriage and
moderate income.
Four-one. - Wealth or many friends.
Four-blank. - A sure warning that single life
will be the best and happiest. It counsels that
any secrets imparted to another will be indis-
creetly revealed.
Double-three. - Enormous riches.
Three-two foretells prosperity in matrimony,
travels, and speculations.
Three-one. - Some danger and unliappiness.
The necessity for acting with extreme caution
in all matters.
Three-blank. - Domestic unhappiness, such as
a quarrel or incompatibility of temperament of
540
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
husband and wife. The absence of harmony
in the home.
Double -tivo promises average happiness and
income.
Two-one. - Two marriages, if the individual
be a woman ; financial failures to a commercial
man.
Two-blank. - The intrigues of unscrupulous
persons will meet with temporary success. It
also denotes poverty, and an indolent hus-
band. The individual will return safely from
all joumej's undertaken.
Double-one. - An existence free from money
worries ; peace and constancy in love and
marriage.
Double-blank seems to favour the deeds of
unprincipled persons, and foretells want of
integrity in lover and husband.
DIVINATIONS BY TAROCS
Tarocs differ from the numeral cards used
for bridge, whist, &c., in several ways. A pack
consists of seventy -eight cards, made up of
twenty-two emblematic pictures and fifty-six
ordinary.
These latter are grouped into four suits of
fourteen cards each : - four coat cards - king,
queen, chevalier, and valet ; and ten fip cards,
numbering from 1 to 10.
The twenty-two emblematic cards are known
as the Major Arcana, and are divided into three
groups of seven, which equal twenty-one cards.
The twenty-second stands for the highest point
successful achievement may reach. The Major
Arcana contaiHS : - -
let Division
1. The Juggler - emblematic of the male in-
quirer.
2. The High Priestess - emblematic of the
woman inquirer.
3. The Empress - emblematic of the action,
initiative.
4. The Emperor - emblematic of the will.
5. The Pope - emblematic of the inspiration.
6. Lovers - emblematic of the love.
7. The Chariot - emblematic of the triumph,
providential protection.
2nd Division
1. Justice - emblematic of justice.
2. The Hermit - emblematic of prudence.
3. The Wheel of Fortune- emblematic of
destiny.
4. Strength - emblematic of fortitude, courage.
5. The Hanged Man - emblematic of trial and
sacrifice.
6. Death- emblematic of bereavement.
7. Temperance - emblematic of temperance.
3rd Division
1. The Devil - emblematic of immense force or
illness.
2. The Struck Tower - emblematic of ruin and
deception.
3. The Stars - emblematic of hope.
4. The Moon - emblematic of hidden dangers,
enemies.
5. The Sun - emblematic of material happiness,
marriage.
6. Judgment - emblematic of change of circum-
stances.
7. The Foolish Man - emblematic of incon-
siderate actions.
The remaining card. No. 22, which belongs
to this division, is
The universe, emblematic of success.
The Minor Arcana, divided into two groups
of four, corresponding to the suits of ordinary
playing cards : -
Sceptres relate to diamonds, interpreted as
enterprise.
Cups relate to hearts, interpreted as love.
Swords relate to spades, interpreted as mis-
fortune.
Pentacles relate to clubs, interpreted as interest,
The four coat cards stand for different con-
ditions of existence : -
King, emblematic of man. Divine world (spiri-
tuality).
Queen, emblematic of woman. Human wo .'Id
(vitality).
Chevalier, emblematic of youth. Material world
(materiality).
Valet, emblematic of childhood. Transition
stage (life in growtli).
The remaining cards of these smts (1 to 10)
are important according to their relation to the
coat cards and their numerical value. These are
(1) 1, 2, 3 of each suit appertain to man -
abstract qualities, creation, and enter-
prise.
(2) 4, 5, 6 of each suit represent woman -
opposition, reflection, and negation.
(3) 7, 8, 9 of each suit represent youth and
materialism.
(4) The four tens of each suit represent the
stage of transition.
In order to toll fortunes by means of tarocs,
the manipulator must be perfectly conversant
with the design, cltiss. and interpretation of
each card.
Process o( Divination. - The complete pack ia
RECREATIONS
541
used. Shuffle and cut into three parts, each
composed of twenty-six cards, thus : -
26 26 26
Take the central pack and place on the right.
The inquirer shuffles the two remaining packs,
which equal fifty-two. These are dealt out in
a similar fashion - ^three groups of seventeen
cards, thus : -
17 17 17
Again remove central pack to the right.
Deal out the remaining packs, which equal
thirty -four, in three groups of eleven, thus : -
11
11
11
It will be seen that seventy-eight cards divide
equally in the first deal.
In the second deal, however, only fifty-one
cards are used, so that there is one over. This
card is shuffled with the third deal.
Two cards are now over, and these are placed
as discards, until the central pack of the last
deal of eleven is put on the riglit, when they are
shuffled with the remaining twenty-two discards.
The cards will now be as follows : -
26
17
11
Discards = twenty-four, making in all seventy-
eight. They are next placed beneath each other
in sequence, thus : -
A. 26 - emblematic of the supernatural,
spiritual.
B. 1 7 - emblematic of the thoughts and calling
of the individual.
C. 11 - emblematic of the physical and
material.
The tarocs of pack A, B, and C are now lifted
separately, and placed on the table from left
to right in rows. Each taroc has its meaning,
and from its relation to its fellows the manipu-
lator is able to present a brief sketch of character,
inclination, and futurity.
Another simple method is to shuffle all the
cards and request the inquirer to cut. The
manipulator then proceeds to draw the first
seventeen tarocs, uncovering only the eighteenth
and last card of the pack. These two cards
create what degree of sympathy is shared
between himself and his client, the keynote
being given by the symbolic meaning attached
to the card. The seventeen cards are now
revealed from left to right, their interpretation
being given separately. In order to reach a
proper signification, they are then compared
as follows : -
The first with the seventeenth.
The second with the sixteenth.
The third with the fifteenth,
and so on, each process increasing or taking
from the first manifestation.
ORGANISING ENTERTAINMENTS FOR
CHARITY
Though the organisation of charity enter-
tainments involves real hard work and a great
deal of anxiety for the organisers, yet it may
well be classed as a pastime owing to the large
amount of pleasure afforded to all who take
part in it when their efforts are successful.
Charity entertainments are many and various,
ranging from the simple penny reading, village
concert or bazaar, to the more ambitious
theatrical entertainment for which a theatre or
hall has to be hired, or the concert or " fancy
fair " given in one of the large town halls. The
larger the scale upon which the entertainment
is planned the greater the amount of work
there will be. For large entertainments it is
always as well to appoint a committee of organi-
sation consisting of at least four members, each
of which will be responsible for some particular
part of preparation, to be allotted to them by
the chief organiser who will superintend the
whole.
Small entertainments for local charities which
do not involve so much preliminary outlay and
for which a certain amount of profit is usually
assured, may be organised by one person, but
even in these circumstances she should be able
to count upon the co-operation of a number
of willing helpers, and she should always avail
herself of their services to the full, and thus by
sparing herself the necessity of worrying over
the hundred and one minor details, will be
able to devote all her energies to the carrjdng
out of the more important part of the work.
In the first place influential patronage must
be secured. Persons of high social standing
should be approached, more especially those
who are interested in the special charity for
which the entertainment is to be given. If the
request is placed before them in a tactful manner
they will in most cases give permission for their
names to be included in the list of patrons.
Then steps must be taken to give publicity
to the event. If the lady or gentleman who
is in charge of tliis important department has
some journalistic associations, and might there-
fore be able to influence press paragraphs, so
much the better. It will be necessary also to
commence advertising the event in the principal
papers a few weeks beforehand, and it is better,
if possible, to insert a small advertisement
daily during the last week. Neatly-worded
paragraphs describing the most striking featvires
of the entertainment should be sent to the
editors of all the papers in which the advertise-
ment appears, together with a polite little note
requesting the favour of a paragraph and point-
ing out that the entertainment is advertised in
his paper. Then, at least twelve days before-
hand, tickets of admission to the entertainment
should be sent to the editors, with printed
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
542
progranune3 and any further particulars to
which attention should bo drawn.
Strict accounts should be kept of each item
of expenditure involved. While nothing should
le grudged which will help to ensure success,
aU Ltrlvagance of outlay should be avoided
How many so-called " charity " entertainments
have been given, for instance, in which, atter
paving all the incidental expenses, not a f artlung
CbL left over for the charity. I" the case
of theatricals each performer should be asked
to provide or hire her own costume, make up, &c. ,
as her contribution to the charity. If this
course is not pursued, then the expenses will
soon mount up. They should all go to the same
costumier, if possible, and in most cases the
latter wiU make a substantial reduction if
mention is made of his name in the programmes.
A reduction will also bo made in the charge foi
hiring scenery for the same consideration, iho
same may be said in regard to the printing,
wliich in the case of small local chanties may
often be obtained free of any charge whatever.
A theatre is often lent for the performance
free, with the exception of the cost of lighting,
orchestra, and attendants' fees, aU of whicn
WiU have to be met. Nearly always the use of
a large hall may also be obtained free for
the purposes of a concert or bazaar, it tactlui
appUcation is made in the proper quarter.
Bazaars should always be planned upon as
original lines as possible to make them a success.
A pretty idea is for all the stall-holders to bo
in the costume of some historical Pf.^od; tor
instance, it might be called an " Elizabethan
Fair," and all the stall-holders would have to
be dresed in Elizabethan costume. In the
stalls themselves the illusion should also be
kept up as far as possible. The refreshment
room should be decorated in Elizabethan style
with simple little tables and settles, and the
waitresses dressed in the simple costume of the
Elizabethan serving-wench. Tlie f ortune-telhng
booth should by no moans be forgotten, as to
have their fortunes told forms an ii-resistible
attraction to the feminine members of the
community at least. Fortunes might be told
cither by palmistry or cards, both are largely
appreciated. Part of the tent might be parti-
tioned of=t for the purpose of teUing fortunes
by the teacup. This would be a novelty, ns
each consultant of the "wizard" would first
bo obUged to partake of the " cup that cheers "
before her future is foretold. The woman who
has not enough articles to equip a stall should
bethink herself of the possibilities of the bran
tub. Presents of all kinds and varieties should
bo hidden away in a tub half full of bran, and
3d., 6d., or Is. charged for a dip, in accordance
with the value of the articles therein. Then,
again, if the sales are not brisk at any particular
stall, the possibilities of the "raffle " must not
be lost sight of. Very often articles will fetch
a muoli higher price when raffled than if sold
in the ordinary way. Tickets bearing different
numbers should be made out in duphcate, one
set being sold and the others placed in a bag or
hat and well shaken up together. From these
a person must be asked to draw a number.
The person possessing the duplicate of the
number drawn has won the prize. Baffling is
looked upon by some people as one of the most
enioyable features of a bazaar, and these will
make a point of expending all the money they
have to spare upon tickets for the various
raffles. There are no end of pretty fancy
articles for sale at bazaars that can be made
by clever fingers.
A RoUer-Skating Carnival always forms an
irresistible attraction, and its successful results
ere even more assured than those of a bazaar
by reason of its novelty. A local skating rink
Bhould be hired and tickets of admission sold
under condition that all the skaters must be
in fancy dress. Prizes should be given for the
best and the most original costumes.
Whist and Bridge Drives, for which tickets
are sold, are often sources of great help to local
charities. There must be a fairly large number
of players, and the tickets should be charged
at 2s. 6d. to 5s., there being &st and sr.ond
prizes for the successful winners poesessmg 5s.
tickets, and first and second prizes ot lower value
for those with 28. 6d. tickets. . - 1
There are, in fact, no end to the enjoyaule
functions which may be organised m the cause
of charity, and in each case it may be said
that much of the success of the function wall
depend upon th- capability for orgamsation
displayed by its promoters.
OUTDOOR GAMES
LAWN TENNIS
Lawn tennis is one of the favourite outdoor
games ^vith young people of both sexes. I
forms the raison d'Hre of many a pleasant
garden party in the summer months ; it is a
game in which both men and women can join,
and from its purely social aspect, if for no other
reason, it is well worth cultivating by the modern
^ Wo"are not all sufficiently fortunate to have
enough lawn spaco at our disi,osal for tlie for-
mation of a tennis court. The wise mother
however, will see that her children are initiated
RECREATIONS
into the mysteries of the game when at school ;
also as they get older she will arrange for them
to join some good lawn tennis club, of which
there are several in nearly every town or suburb.
Moreover, she would do well to show her interest
in the pursuits of her young people by joining
the club with them, and by obtaining in this
way a health -giving respite from the many and
arduous duties which fall to the lot of the
average house-mistress.
The fees of membership vary in different
543
faciUties so offered are not always taken advan-
tage of, for the very good reason that a large
mmiber of people are not aware of their exist-
ence. Before joining a tennis club, therefore,
make inquiries in order to ascertain if there are
any places in your district where tennis courts
and nets are to be hired. If there are, then try
to get a friend or friends who are good tennis
players to go regularly with you until you have
attained that proficiency which can only be
achieved by practice.
78 feel
.21[eei.
J
Plan of Full-sized Tennis Court according to the Regulations of the
Lawn Tennis Association.
localities, although £1, Is. per season would
represent the average. Girls who have to
spend their days teaching or in an office,
or at some other equally sedentary occupa-
tion, cannot do better than become members
of clubs of the kind and spend their summer
evenings in playing tennis. The small sum
expended will prove to be well invested, and
the benefits to be derived from this healthful
deviation from the ordinary routine are well
~ ~ 78 feet
The Court. - The piece of lawn upon which
the court is marked must be thoroughly smooth
and level. It should never be on a slope. The
lawn requires to be kept in good condition, and
requires regular rolling and mowing. The lines
indicating the court are marked in whitening by
means of a " Lawn Tennis Marker." There are
many different kinds of markers to be had,
most of them consisting of a little tank upon
wheels, the tank containing the whitening which
Plan of Single-handed Tenuis Court according to the Regulations of the
Luv/n Tennis Association.
worth some small sacrifice. It often happens,
however, that the members of some clubs are
all "crack'' players, and the begirner would
therefore shrink from exposing herself to adverse
criticism of her play. In these circumstances
she should remember that, in London and many
other large towns, portions of large parks or
pubhc grounds are set apart for the purpose of
lawn tennis - and both tennis court and net may
be hired at from Sd, to Is. an hour. The
by a patent device is conveyed to the " marking
wheel."
In simple language the game of lawn tennis
consists of hitting balls across a net by means
of rackets. As is well kno\vn, lawn tennis may
be played by two, tliree, or four players. For
the single-handed game {i.e. two players) the
court is slightly differently marked than for the
other games. The difference is shown in the
accompanying diagrams.
544
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
For the single-handed game the court must
be 27 ft. in width and 78 ft. in length- for the
three and four-handed games it must be 36 ft.
in width and 78 ft. in length. In both cases
it is divided across the middle by a net, the
ends of which are stretched to the tops of two
posts which stand 3 ft. outside the court on
each side. The height of the net is 3 ft. 6 m.
at the posts, and 3 ft. at the centre. At each
end of the court, parallel with the net, and at a
distance of 39 ft. from it, are drawn the base
lines, the extremities of which are connected
by the "side lines." Halfway with the side
lines and parallel with them is drawn the '' half-
court " line, di\'iding the space on each side of
the net into two equal parts, called the right and
left courts. On each side of the net, at a dis-
tance of 21 ft. from it, are drawn the service
lines. The half-court line need not be drawn
beyond the serAace Une. In the single-handed
game (i.e. two players) the service Unes extend
to the side lines, whilst for the tliree- or four-
handed games, within the side lines at a distance
of 4J ft. from them, and parallel with them, are
drawn the service side lines.
Rules of the Game. - As with every other game,
lawn tennis has its recognised code of rules,
wliich must be followed. The opponent players
stand on opposite sides of the net. The player
who begins the game by serving the ball over
the net is called the "server," the one who
returns the ball the "striker out." Players
take it in turns to servo in alternate games.
In the three-handed game the single player
serves in every alternate game. In the four-
handed game the service of the first game is
given by one of the partners on either side, the
second game by one of the partners on the
opponent side, the third game by the partner
of the one who served in the first game, and
so on until the set is finished. The server must
stand with both feet behind the base line and
within the limits of the imaginary continuation
of the centre service and the side lines. She
must deliver the service from right to left courts
alternately, beginning from the right.
The ball served must drop within the service
line, half court line, and side line of the court,
which is diagonally opposite to that from which
it was served, or upon any such line.
A Fault. - If the service be delivered from the
wrong court, or if the server is not standing
as directed above, or if the ball does not go
over the net, or goes beyond the service line, or
if it drop out of' court or in the wrong service
court, there is what is known as a " fault " m
the service. If the server makes two consecu-
tive faults, a stroke is won by the other side.
A Let.- It is a " let " if the ball served touch
the net provided the service be otherwise good,
or if a service or fault be delivered when the
striker out is not ready, or if a player is ob-
structed by any accident not within her control.
In case of a " let " the service or stroke counts
for nothing and the server may serve again.
The " striker out " must not return the
ball before it touches the ground in her first
return stroke. The server wins a stroke if the
" striker out " volley the service, or fails to
return the service or the ball in play (except
in the case of a let), or return the service or
ball in play so that it drop outside any of the
lines which bound her opponent's court, or
otherwise lose a stroke.
The striker out wins a stroke if the server
serves two consecutive faults or fails to return
the ball in play (except in the case of a let), or
returns the ball in play so that it drops outside
any of the lines which bound her opponent's
court.
Scoring. - On either side winning the first
stroke the winning side scores 15, for the second
stroke 30 is scored, for the third stroke 40.
If both sides win one stroke the score is 15 all,
if both win two strokes the score is 30 all, if
both win three strokes the score is " deuce " ;
the next stroke after " deuce " won by either
players is called advantage for that player. If
the same player wins the next stroke she wins
the game. If she loses the next stroke the
score is again called deuce, and so on till either
player wins the two strokes immediately follow-
ing the score of deuce.
Tennis Racket. - A great deal depends upon
the quality of the racket. It should never be
too heavy - 13 J oz. represents a good average
weight for ladies' vise. It should be made of
good strong gut not too tightly strung. Many
now patents in rackets have lately been intro-
duced. In one the racket has two centre strings
of wire. Balls also should always be of good
quaUty. To fulfil the requirements of the lawn
tennis laws these should not be less than 2i in.
nor more than 2^'^ in. in diameter, and not less j
than 1| oz. nor more than 2 oz. in weight. I
Net and Posts. - Nets should be of the best
quality procurable. An inferior one will not I
last. They sliould be well taken care of, never I
being allowed to remain out in all weathers, }
but removed from the posts and rolled up care- '
fully when the game is over. The posts which ]
possess a winding apparatus by means of which ^
the net can be evenly stretched between them
and fixed in place are the best to use.
CRICKET
Cricket has long been regarded as England's
chief national sport, and it is a game in which ,
most young people like to excel. Though essen- ,
tially a boy's and man's game, girls are by no ,
means debarred from entering into it, and many
a cricket match is arranged and played at oiir
large girls' schools, there being much competi-
tion for membership in the school cricket eleven.
A cricket match is played by two sides of
RECREATIONS
545
eleven players each, each side being under the
direction of its captain. The game consists of
the defence of the wicket by the batsmen of
the one side against the bowlers and fielders of
the other, whose mission it is to endeavour to
knock down the wicket with the ball. Cricket
may be played with double or single wickets,
the former method being the most universally
adopted.
For the double wicket game there must be a
batsman at each side of the wickets. The play
of the defending side is termed their "innings."
When a batsman hits the ball far enough, the
batsmen run across each to the other one's
wicket, and keep on running backwards and
forwards as long as there is no danger of the
batsman being bowled out while away from the
wicket. Each time they run to each other's
wickets is counted a " run." The side which
scores the gioater number of " runs " wins the
game. As each batsman goes out his place is
taken by another batsman, until ten have
played. When the tenth is out the other side
begin their innings.
The wickets are pitched opposite and parallel
to each other at a distance of 22 yds. Each
wicket must be 8 in. in width, and consist of
three stumps with two bails on the top. The
wickets must not be changed during a match
unless the ground between them becomes unfit
for play. The ground at each wicket must be
marked out according to the rules of the game
with bowling crease, return crease, and popping
crease - tlie bowler must keep within the limits
of the bowling and retu.n crease, and the bats-
man witliin those of the popping crease. In
addition to bowlers and batsmen the fielders
play an important part in the game of the
attacking pa^tJ^ They each have their certain
definite positions allotted to them ; it being their
mission to stop the ball and throw it in. Chief
amongst these may be mentioned the wicket-
lieeper, who must stand behind the stumps. He
must be on the alert to stump the batsmen who
miss the ball and are over the crease, and run
them out when the ball is returned from the
fielders, to take " catches," and prevent " byes."
Before the commencement of every match
two umpires must bo appointed, one for each
end. The umpires are the sole judges of fair
or unfair play. They must pitch fair wickets,
arrange boundaries where necessary, and the
allowances to be made for them, and change
ends after each has had one innings. The
batsman is declared " out " -
If the ball is caught by the bowler or a
.^Ider before it touches the ground.
WTien he is " bowled," i.e. if the wicket be
bowled down, even if the ball first touch the
triker's bat or person.
If he is " stumped " out - ^that is to say, if
in playing at the ball, pro\'ided it be not touched
by the bat or hand, the striker is out of his
ground and the wicket is put down by the
wicket-keeper with the ball, or with hand or
arm with ball in hand.
If with any part of his person he stop the
baU.
If he " hit the wicket " with his bat or any
part of his person or dress.
When under pretence of running or otherwise
either of the batsmen wilfully prevent a ball
from being caught.
If the ball bo struck by any part of liis person
or he wilfully strike it again, except it be done
for the purpose of guarding his wicket, which
he may do with liis bat or any part of his
person except his hands.
If he is " run out " - ^if the wicket be knocked
down by his opponents with the ball while he
is making his runs : he is out if he has not
grounded his bat inside the popping crease before
the ball hits the wicket for which he is malcing.
The bowler bowls an " over " or six successive
balls from one end. Then a bowler at the other
end also bowls an " over."
It is " no ball " if the bowler does not have
one foot behind the bowling crease when bowl-
ing, but the batsman is entitled to run just the
same. If the ball is lost, six runs are allowed to
the striker.
HOCKEY
Hockey is a great deal played by girls and
women, usually forming one of the sports taught
at girls' schools. There are also a nvunber of
ladies' hockey clubs throughout the country.
The game is played with hockey sticks and an
ordinary cricket ball painted white. There
are twenty-two players, eleven on each side.
Usually five of these eleven are " forwards," tliree
" half backs," two " backs," and one the goal-
keeper. To score a goal the ball must be driven
between the goal posts. The ground must be
marked in the shape of a rectangle, the long sides
of which are called the " side lines " and the short
sides the " goal lines." In the centre of each goal
line are placed the goals, which consist of two
upright posts placed foiu" yards apart connected
by a cross-bar. Behind the goals at either side
a net is placed. Fifteen yards in front of each
goal a semi-circle is drawn with its sides ter-
minating at the goal line. This is called the
" striking circle," and in order for a goal to be
scored the ball must be struck from a point
witlain this circle.
Tlie game is started by two of the players
(one from each side) striking the ground in
front of the ball three times with their sticks.
This is known as a " bully," and the play must
be restarted by a " bully " each time a gosd
is scored. The side which scores the greater
number of goals wins the game.
The player must not hold, carrj', or send the
ball in any direction except by means of her
hockey stick, but she may stop the ball with
2m
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
546
her foot and catch it with her hand if she drops
it immediately afterwards.
Tlie rules for the game of hockey for women
in England are drawn up by the All England
Woman's Hockey Association, of which JIiss
M. A. JuUus, 7 Onslow Avenue, Richmond, is
the secretary.
Dress- Loose blouses or jerseys and short
serge skirts should be worn. Boots or shoes
should have good, thick, strong soles, and boots
as a rule are preferable to shoes, as they serve
in a measure to protect the ankles from injury
by knocks with the hockey sticks.
ROUNDERS
Rounders is a very popular game for the play-
•^ound, and one in which any number of players
may take part. Tlie game is played in an
imaginary round or circle, on which four bases
are marked by posts placed at equal distances
from each other. In some cases trees are situ-
ated in convenient parts of the ground to do
duty as bases. The players are divided into
two' sides. The members of the side who are
" in " stand in a line at the post marking the
home base and one member of the other side
acts as bowler, the others taking up various
positions on the ground as fielders. Each
member of the " in " side takes it in turn to
strike the baU sent by the bowler, generallj'
with the open hand, though in some forms of
the game a bat is used. When she has struck
it she must at once run to the post or tree
marking the first base, it being the object of the
fielders to get her " out " by hitting her with
the ball wliile she is running between the bases.
No two players may stand together at any base
but the homo oase, so that when a player is
stationed at the first base from home, directly
another player hits the ball and begins to run
she must at once make for the next base. The
great object of the game is to obtain as many
rounders as possible, that is to say, that each
player should endeavour to hit the ball far
enough to enable her to run to all the posts
And home again without stopping. The side
which wins the greater number of rounders wins
the game.
If a ball Is caught before touching the ground
by the bowler or any of the fielders, the side
of the striker is out, and the others must take
their turns as batsmen. Each player as she
roaches homo takes her stand at the end of
the line of players waiting for their turn to
act as batsman, and she bats the ball in her
turn again until she is out. When all the
players on the innings side are out, the next
side comes in.
BASEBALL
This may be called the American Rounders,
and is a very favourite game in America. It
is played by eighteen players, nine to a side.
The field is diamond-shaped, the bases being
stationed at the four corners. llie pitcher
stands opposite to the home base six feet from
it and bowls to the batsmen of the " in " side,
whilst the other members of the " out " side
are stationed as fielders in various positions
over the ground, one taking up his position as
" catcher " behind the home base. The bats-
man when he has hit the ball must run to the
first base. Each round of the four bases makes
a " run," and the side which scores the greater
number of rvins wins the game. Should a bats-
man fail to hit the ball after it has been bowled
to him three consecutive times he is out. When
three of the batsmen have been bowled out the
innings is over. If the batsman is hit by the
fielder with the ball whilst running between the
bases he is out. Each side is allowed nine
innings.
CROQUET
Croquet is played with croquet mallets and
balls on an oblong-shaped lawn upon which a
number of hoops and arches are set in a definite
order. Six hoops are used in the new standard
settings. Each player has a mallet and a ball ;
the balls are of difierent colours in order that
they may be easily distinguished in play, and
the mallets bear corresponding colours. Two
or more players may take part in the game, four
or eight being favourite numbers. The object
of the player is to send her ball tlirough each
hoop until the winning peg is reached, and to
keep her opponent from making progress. This
can be done by means of " Roquet," by which
the player when she has passed through a hoop
strikes with her ball that of her opponent.
When she has done this the player must place
her own ball against the ball which she has
struck, and then hit the former with her mallet,
the force of the stroke serving to move both
balls. There is a great art in this stroke the
knack of which is only gained by experience.
For instance, one kind of stroke will send both
balls in the same direction, whilst another kind
of stroke will send them far apart. Tlie object
of the player should be not only to send her
opponent's ball as far away from its destination
as possible, but also to place it in a position
where it will be useful to her or to one of the
other players on her side. The player is not
now allowed to put her foot on her opponent's
ball to keep it steady when making the stroke.
Many people, however, still play croquet in
the old-fashioned way.
When a player has passed through a hoop,
or taken "Roquet," she is allowed another
turn. If she misses a hoop, sends a ball out
of bounds, or fails to move her opponent's ball
when playing it against her own after " Roquet,
her turn is over. i
The rules of croquet are drawn up by the
RECREATIONS
547
Croquet Association. A copy of the rules, with
diagrams of standard settings, price 4d., may
be obtained from Horace Cos, Bream's Build-
ings, London, E.C.
BOWLS
Bowls is a very popular lawn game. It is
played with bowls which have a bias on one
side, and a small ball called the jack. The
play is begun by one of the players bowhng
the jack across the lawn to give it its position.
Then turns are taken alternately by members
of each side. The object of each player is to
bowl her ball as near as possible to the jack,
and to knock away that of her opponent, if
possible. In bowhng the side with the bieis
should always be held towards the player.
When all have had their turn the score is taken.
The side which has the nearest bowl to the
jack counts points in accordance with the number
of bowls they have nearer the jack than the
opposing side. The number of points that make
the game can be settled beforehand by the
players.
BADMINTON
Badminton is very like tennis, only it is played
with special Badminton bats and shuttlecocks
instead of balls. It has the advantage of being
a game which can be played either in or out
of doors, only in the latter case it cannot be
played in a strong wind. It is mostly played
in covered courts, and in these circumstances
makes an admirable winter game. The shuttle-
cock is sent over the net in the same manner
as in tennis, only the game must necessarily be
a volleyed one. Should a player fail to rettirn
the shuttlecock which is served to her, a point
is scored against her, also against the server
who sends the shuttlecock into the wrong coiurt.
The shuttlecock must not touch the net or
posts or fall out of bounds. The game usually
is fifteen, but when both sides have scored
tliirteen, five extra points may be played for.
A Badminton net stands higher than a tennis
net, being 5 ft. in the middle and 5 ft. 1 in.
at the sides.
GOLF
Golf is becoming a very favourite game for
women, though the golfer is apt to find her
hobby a somewhat expensive one at times.
Besides the initial outlay on golf clubs, balls,
and other accessories, tips to caddies have to
be considered, whilst if the golfer is to have
any chance of pursuing her favourite pastime
she must of necessity belong to a good golfing
club.
The game is played with small balls and clubs
of various shapes on uneven ground. The
coiu-se has at intervals of 150 and 500 yards a
number of smooth greens each with a hole in
it, and the object of each player is to get her
ball into each of these holes in turn and so
round the course with the least number of
strokes. The one who wins at the greater
number of holes wins the round.
For the first stroke the ball is placed on a
small mound called a " tee." Sometimes two
players on each side strike the same ball alter-
nately. The match is then called a " four-
some."
Golf is essentiallj' a game wliich must be
acquired by practice. Little help can be ob-
tained by an amateur from books. Tlie rules
of the game have been drawn up by the Golf
Club of St. Andrews, and the beginner should
obtain a copy of these. There are a number
of ladies' golf clubs in country places, health
resorts, and the suburbs, at which an entrance
fee, which varies from one to three guineas, in
addition to the year's subscription, must bo
paid.
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
No woman, be she princess or peasant. ^Wd cor^ide, h^^^^^^^^
knowledge of nursing, and a though to '^"^^ ^^^'^'^^^^^^^^'^^X by practSal expk'ience. or by
that the necessary know edge m^^^^^^^^ ^hir^; '^ven i^C^t' pa^rt^ of the couLy by trained
attending some of the exceUont ""^^ў^^Xi^^^^^ PerhaDS a knowledge of nursing is needed most
Calmness in a crisis is the result of knowledge.
THE SICK-ROOM
Caioice of Room.- It often happens that a
person is taken ill in a room which is qmte un-
suitable for an invaUd, and he may have to re-
main there cither because there is no other place
available or because he is too Ul to be moved.
In this case the room must be made as hke the
ideal sick-room as possible. If you are able to
choose a sick-room, select one at the back of the
house, as it is quieter, and if it looks out on to a
garden, so much the better. There is something
very soothing in the sounds and scents from a
garden, and most people like to listen to the
Bongs of birds and to the rustling of leaves.
The" room should be largo and lofty, and it is
an advantage to have windows on opposite sides,
so that when there is a strong wind blowing in
one direction, a window on the other side can
be opened. A room with a south-eastern
aspect is best, as it will have plenty of sunshine,
and sunshine, like fresh air, means life to the
patient. The old plan of darkening a sick-room
is a bad one. Unless the eyes are affected,
or there is cerebral trouble, a patient should bo
encouraged to tolerate the Ught. Of course,
a patient's bed Can be moved, or the window
curtain arranged so as to prevent "the sun
getting in his eyes."
Ventilation and Warmth.- Good ventilation is
an absolute necessity in the sick-room, and to
ensure this there should be an inlet for fresh
air and an outlet for what is impure. This can
be arranged by opening the window at the top.
The warm foul air cscajjes at the top, and the
fresh air enters between the sashes. The
windows should be opened wide and not just a
few inches. The idea that night air is injurious
is a false one, as often the air is purer at night
than in the day-time ; there are fewer fires arid
consequently less smoke. If the room is small,
keep the vvindow wide open. If the patient is m
a draught, put up a screen, or if there is not one
available it can be improvised by arranging a
sheet over a clothes-horse. The sick-room thould
always be fresh, even to an outsider commg in
from the open air. It should at the same time
be warm, but not over-heated. A temperature
from 56" to 60№ Fahr. is usually high enough, but
in some cases it may be necessary to hav^ it
as high as 65№ Fahr. A thermometer should be
hung in the room near the patient's bed and the
temperature noted from time to time. There
should also be a fireplace, as a fire in an open
grate is an excellent ventilator. A complete
set of fire-u-ons is not required. A small poker
and tongs are all that are needed. Choose a
time when the patient is awake to make up the
fire, and if it must be made up while he is asleep,
wear old gloves and take up the coal in the hands,
or put a number of pieces of coal in a paper-
bag beforehand and place this on the fire when
necessary. When there is a fire in the room
the grate will, of course, need to be " done up
once a day, but afterwards it can be kept tidy
with a brush or a duster kept for tho
purpose. ^ ^, .
Cleanliness and Arrangement.- Everything in
a sick-room should be kept scrupulously clean.
The floor should either be bare or covered witii
oil-cloth. In this way it can bo kept clea,n by
frequent dusting or wiping over daily with a
648
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
549
damp cloth, and then occasionally washed with
soap and water. Small rugs or mats can be
laid down, and they should be placed so as to
deaden the sound of footsteps. These can
easily be taken out of the room and
shaken.
The walls should be covered with a pretty
light paper.
It is better to avoid drapery as much as
possible, and what there is shoxild be of wasliing
material. There should be no unnecessary
furniture in the room, and it should be of the
kind that is easily kept clean. One or two
easy-chairs are useful, also a sofa, but in the
case of infectious diseases upholstered furniture
should be banished as far as possible.
On a table or chest of drawers place a tray, on
which have a basin of water and a clean tea-cloth
to wash the medicine glass or feeder. The
medicine bottles and glass can be kept on tliis
table, but all lotions, Unaments, or poisons
should be kept on the washstand. Sometimes
a lotion, intended for outward application only,
is given in mistake for medicine. The risk of
doing this is lessened if lotion and medicine
bottles are kept apart. Have a small table
close to the patient's bed. This should be
covered with a dainty white cloth, and on it
might be placed a small bunch of very fresh
flowers in a vase that will not easily fall over ;
also a table-napkin to place under the patient's
cliin wliile he is being fed. It is nice to have
a tiny tray on tliis table on which a clean
spoon can be kept, or the medicine glass or
feeding-cup put down if the patient has to
be raised, or can only take his nourishment
slowly. Later on, during convalescence, a drink
or a little fruit can be placed on the table for
the patient to take as he wishes, and when he
is able to read a book this might also be placed
within reach.
There should be plenty of nice fresh flowers
in the room, but avoid choosing those with a
very strong scent, and never keep stale flowers
in the vases. It is better to remove all plants
and flowers at night.
Bed and Bedding. - The bedstead should be, if
possible, behind the door with the head to the
wall and a space on either side.
The window should be at the side of the bed.
Never, if you can help it, have the head of the
bed against the window, as the patient will bo
sure to complaiia of the cbaught. If it happens
to be in tliis position, and the room is too small
to allow of its being moved, then tm-n the
patient with his head to the foot of tho bed
if possible.
In winter, when the weather is cold and dull,
liave the bedstead as near the fire as you con-
^■cniently can. It is nice when the firo is at tho
.^ido of tho bed, so that the patient can have
a good view oi it. Tliere iij something very
cheering in a bright fire.
A single iron bedstead with a wire spring is
the best, as it will be easy for the nm-so to reach
the patient. The only advantage in a full-
sized bed is that the patient can be moved from
one side to the other while the bed is being made.
There should be a good, thick, soft mattress of
hair or wool - hair for choice. Flock and
feather beds are not good, as they get lumpy
and full of hollows when they cannot be pro-
perly shaken.
The sheets should be large enough to be well
tucked in under the mattress. A draw sheet
is usually needed. This should be a yard wide
and two j'ards long. An ordinary sheet doubled
answers the purpose quite well.
The number of pillows reqtiired by a patient
difiers very much, but a bolster and two soft
pillows or three pillows are usually needed.
When the patient is lying quite flat, the second
pillow may not be required, but it is often tiseful
to put under his shoulders, or to support his
back when lying on his side, or when one pillow
gets very hot it is nice to be able to replace it by
a fresh one.
Have warm soft woollen blankets. Cheap
blankets made of cotton mixture are quite out
of place in the sick-room, as they are heavy and
not warm.
The same applies to heavy cotton quilts ;
they are undesirable on all occasions, and are
impossible for an invalid, as their weight is most
trying and tiring. Very light, tliin bed-spreads
should be used ; small plain ones m ithout frills
are best, as they can be easily washed. A clean
sheet makes a very good bed-spread.
All bed-Unen should be of snowy whiteness.
THE NURSE
The woman who undertakes sick-nursing
must learn to be observant ; slie must also
be very accurate when making statements
about her patients to the doctor and conscien-
tious in cai-rying out his instructions. Often
the nerves may be all " on edge " from tho
strain of nui'sing, especially if the patient is a
very dear relative, and for this reason it is the
duty of the nurse to take care of her own health.
For the patient's sake as well as her own she
should always try to take her meals regularly,
and, if possible, out of the sick-room. Sho
should also get some hours' sleep in another
room.
Dress. - Tlie nurse's dross should be of wasliing
material, and she should always wear an apron.
The dress should be short enough to clear tho
ground, and if the sleeves are short so much the
better, as it is often necessary to wash the hands,
and long sleeves are in tho way, unless they can
easily be turned tip. Silk petticoats and rxistlmg
garments of all kinds are quite out of place,
neither should jingling bracelets nor long
chains be worn, as they are not only noisy but
550
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
daiigorous, being liable to catch on a table-
cloth or quilt and cause an accident. The nurse
should alwaj's wear quiet shoes with india-
rubber heels if possible, or, if nursing at night,
she might wear felt slippers. She should always
walk softly but firmly, and never tip-too about
the room.
If the nurse has had some rest in the day,
and comes on fresh for night duty, she can wear
her day clothes, but if she has been with the
patient all day and has to remain all night
as well, she must undress, or at any rate take
off all tight garments and put on a dressing-
gown so that she can get some rest on a sofa,
or in an easy-chair.
Night-Duty. - If the patient's condition allows
it, it is bettor to have a httle bed in the room
and to go right into it, getting up about every
two hours to give medicine or nourishment, or
do what is necessary. Of course, this cannot
be done in a serious case where a patient is
delirious or requires constant watching. In an
illness of tliis kind it is imperative for the one
who is on charge at night to have some good
sleep during the day in order to be very much
awake and alert, as the patient is often at his
worst at this time, and especially in the early
hours of the morning when his vitality is very
Ipw. Some light and nourishing food must also
be taken during the night, as tliis will tend to
counteract tlie bad effect that overstrain, want
of sleep, and anxiety may have on the body.
Relieving the Nurse. - It sometimes happens
that a number of anxious relatives are desirous
of staying with a person who is very ill in order
to do what they can to help. Now this is a
great mistake : for one reason they use up the
fresh air so greatly needed by the patient, and
for another they all become tired, and thus render
themselves unfit to perform nursing duties
properly. Where there are several friends to
help, they should take it in turn to relieve each
other in the sick-room. Except when help is
needed in lifting the patient, or in rendering him
some special service, it is better that only one
person should bo in attendance at a time. When
the one in charge of a patient leaves another to
take her place - perhaps a friend who has offered
to take night duty - she should leave some
written instructions, such as the time when food
and medicine are to be taken, &c.
Example
Food. Medicine. Stimulant.
Milk, 2 A.M. 11 P.M. 12 A.M.
Bovril or BeeMca, 4 A.M. 3 a.m. 4 A.M.
Millt, C A.M. 7 A.M. 8 A.M,
Eenger'fl, 8 A.M.
I'oultice every four hours. Last poultice put on at 12 a.m.
The friend should be instructed to tick off
the vtu-ious items aa she gives them, and she
in turn should leave a short written report suoh
as the following : -
Example
12.30 A.M. .
Patient restless.
2 A.M.
Slept an hour.
2.30 A.M. .
Patient sick.
3 A.M. .
Complained of pain
4 A.M.
Perspired profusely
6 A.M. .
Slept for two hours.
From the above it is easily seen that patient
had a bad night.
The Professional Nurse. - As a rule the doctor
will say when a trained nurse is needed, but it
is alwaj^s as well to obtain the services of one
in a very serious case where special orders are
given, or where a patient requires attention night
and day. A nurse must be treated with every
consideration. Her meals should be served in
the dining-room, and some one should relieve her
while she takes them. It is the duty of the
people who engage her to see that her food
is regularly and properly served, as otherwise
her health will suffer, and she will be unfit for
her duties. When on night duty she should be
asked what refreshment she would like to have.
As a rule it is tea or coffee and some sandwiches,
or something that she can take easily.
When only one nurse is in attendance, it is
usual for her to do the night duty. Before going
off duty she attends to the patient's toilet and
does what is necessary for him before she leaves.
She is often busy during the greater part of the
morning. If possible, she should go out for a
walk each day. She generally goes to bed soon
after lunch, and should not be disturbed for seven
or eight hours.
Some nurses take their own fees, but more
often these are paid to the association for which
they work. The fees vary from two to three
guineas a week. Laundry and travelling e^.-
pensos have also to bo paid.
Sometimes a visiting nurse can be engaged.
She goes in once or twice a day to attend to the
patient generally, or to carry out any special
order. She will have a tariff of charges, and her
foes vary according to what she does, or the time
she spends at a call. It is sometimes moi-e
convenient to have a visiting nurse where the
sleeping accommodation is limited.
THE DOCTOR
People do not often care to change their
doctor. The family doctor is looked upon as
a true and trusted friend. From him people
expect not only professional attendance, but
all round sympathy and advice, and as a rule
they are not disappointed. Of him Louis
Stevenson says : " He is the flower (such as it
is) of our civilisation."
Wlien it is necessary to choose a doctor, if
possible choose one who lives fairly near, and
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
551
before engaging him ask him what his fees are, so
that there may be no misunderstanding on this
point. Except among the poorer classes the
doctor does not often receive payment at the
time of his visit ; as a rule the bill is sent in
quarterly or half-yearly, and sometimes only
once a year. When the bill is sent in it should
be promptly paid. A doctor has many bad
debts - not among the poor, but among the
upper and middle- classes. There is no more
strenuous life than that of the doctor, and he
should receive every consideration.
Having chosen a doctor in whom you can
place your confidence, be sure that you follow
his instructions, as the treatment is useless
unless carried out.
A trained nurse is never expected to express
an opinion as to diagnosis unasked. Of coiirse,
a doctor would not expect such a strict ob-
servance of etiquette on the part
of relations or friends, but at the
same time it is only polite to defer
to the doctor in all matters con-
cerning the patient. Do not tell
the doctor that you believe the
patient to be suffering from one
thing when he has diagnosed some-
thing quite different. Then do
not worry the doctor by gi\'ing
him the various opinions of your-
self and friends, but instead
report to him faithfully every
symptom or change you have
noticed since Ms previous visit.
Consultations. - In tne case of
serious illness or uncertain diag-
nosis, it is only natural that the
patient or his friends should wish
for further advice, and no doctor
^vill object to a consultation if he
is approached in a right manner.
When it has been decided to have
a second opinion, speak first to the doctor. The
matter should then be arranged without the
slightest friction. The doctor will probably
have a fellow-practitioner with whom he would
like to consult, or he may be willing to meet a
doctor whom you suggest. If the case is very
grave and urgent, and especially when it is a
question of surgical int'jrference, the doctor
himseK will bo the first to suggest sending for a
specialist, and he will probably wish to call in
some one from his own hospital. In this case
the doctor - with the consent of the patient's
friends - arranges the matter, and the specialist
and doctor visit the patient together and consult
as to what is best to be done. The specialist's
fee must be paid at the time of the visit.
It should be placed in an envelope beforehand
and handed to the doctor, who gives it to the
specialist. The amount is arranged between
the two doctors, and usually varies according
to the position of the patient.
CARE OF THE PATIENT
How to Make the Bed. - When a patient is too
ill to be taken out of bed the bed must be made
while he is in it. This can be done quite easily
if one knows the way. If the under-sheet has
to be changed, roll up the fresh one lengthwise to
half its width and place it near the bed readj'
for use. Then remove the bed-spread and top
blanket, and draw out the top sheet from under
the remaining blanket. Untuck all other bed-
clothes. Turn the patient on his side by means
of the draw-sheet. Wswh and rub his back, and
then pull the night-dress down smoothly while
he is in this position. Next roll the draw-sheet
and then the under-sheet as close as possible to
the patient. Put in a fresh under-sheet and
draw-sheet with the rolled parts quite close to the
patient and on a line with the sheets that are to
Changing Sheets from the Side.
be removed. Then gently roll the patient on to
his other side. He will then bo lying on clean
sheets. The soiled sheets are easily removed
on the other side of the bed, and the fresh ones
unrolled and tucked in under the mattress.
When the sheets have to be put in in this fashion,
care should be taken that the rollings are made
as flat as possible so that the patient can be
turned over them without discomfort. The
rollings should always be uppermost, as it is
easier to grasp and unroll the sheets from the
other side of the bed. If a mackintosh is in
use and there is only one, it should be drawn
out carefully, washed and dried if necessary, and
then rolled in with the draw -sheet when the
bod is made. Of course, it is more convenient
to have a second mackintosh. Always make sure
that the under-blanket, under-sheet, mackintosh,
and draw-sheet are quite smooth and free from
wrinkles ; also that the blanket and sheets are
firmly tucked in under the mattress. The
552
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
patient shovild be covered with a blanket while
his bed is being made.
After the under-shoets have been changed,
put the top sheet over the blanket already
covering patient. With one hand hold the
sheet in position, and with the other draw out
the blanket and put it over the sheet. Next
put on the rest of the bed-clothes.
When it is not necessar j' to change the under-
sheet, the bed is quickly and easily made when
the patient is on a mattress. Ho is just rolled
over from side to side and the draw -sheet either
drawn through or changed. If it happens, as it
sometimes does, that the patient is on a flock or
feather bed and has to remain on it, he must be
rolled as far as possible to one side, and the bed
must be gently shaken, and the flocks or feathers
pushed into the hollow in the middle. He is
then rolled to the opposite side of the bed, and
the second side is shaken in the same way. It is
possible for one nurse to make the bed and roll
in the sheets, but it can bo done better and
more quickly by two people, and an amateur
nurse should always have assistance.
Sometimes a patient cannot be turned from
side to side. In this case the clean under-
Changing Sheets from the Top of the Bed.
sheet can bo put in from the head of the bed.
It should be rolled up widthwise. The patient's
head and pillows are raised by one nurse, while
her assistant pushes down the soiled sheets and
rolls in the clean one. The head and pillows
ore then lowered into position, the shoulders
and then the other parts of the body are gently
raised, the soiled sheet is pushed downwards to
the feet, and the clean sheet is gradually un-
rolled until it covers the bed. The draw-sheet
would, of course, bo rolled out with the undor-
sheet, and would have to be put in afterwards.
One nurse would raise the lower part of the body
while the other nurse rolled in the draw-sheet.
If a patient is not very ill, he can often lift
himself enough for his draw-sheet to be put
into place. To raise the lower part of his body
he should be instructed to press his head firmly
on to his pillow and his heels into the bod.
When a patient can only be raised a very little,
the clean draw-sheet can be fastened to the
edge of the soiled one ^^ith safety-pins. One
nvu-se pins the two sheets together and gently
raises patient's body, and a nurse on the other
side of the bed draws the two sheets through
quickly. Both nurses pull on to the shoot to-
gether to ensure its being straight. It is then
tucked firmly under the mattress on both sides
of the bed.
When a patient slips down towards the
foot of the bed, he can be lifted back into
position on the draw-sheet. It must be untucked
and rolled up qviite close to the body on each
side : a nurse on either side of the bed must
grasp the sheet where it is rolled tip and near
its upper and lower margin. In this way there
is a better purchase than if the hands were close
together. Both nurses must lift together, and
the patient must be instructed to lift his head at
the same moment. If he is unable to do this,
a third person must pass her arm
under the pillow and so support
the head, while the othei-s lift.
Of covirse, an injured limb would
need to be supported. A patient
can also be lifted by two persons
- one on each side - joining hands
under his shoulders and buttocks.
Great care should be taken to
arrange the pillows properly. It
is quite easy to see when the
pillows are comfortable. When
a patient is propped in a sitting
position cai-e should be taken that
the back, neck, and head are pro-
perly supported, otherwise there
will be great discomfort. An in-
jtirod limb has always to be
siipported on a pillow. When a
patient has his legs drav^m up, a
pillow should be put under the
knees.
In some illhesses patients have
to be kept between blankets. When this is
the case put a warm soft blanket loosely over
the patient. Put a sheet on the top, and let it
come up a little higher than the blanket, as it
is not pleasant to have the latter against the
face. Bed-clothes should not be folded over the
patient's chest - their weight is exhausting.
The extra lengths can be folded over or tucked
in at tho foot of the bed.
Change of Bed. - An invalid can often be lifted
on to another bed, or on to a sofa while his bed
is made. He should be lifted in the under-sheot,
which must be strong, and if tho patient Ls heavy
the under-blanket must be used as well. Enough
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
553
of the top bed-clothes should be left to keep
the patient warm, and one small pillow can be
placed under the head. The number of bearers
needed in lifting will depend upon the weight of
the patient. The under -sheet should be rolled
up close to the body on both sides. The bearers
grasp the rolled parts of the sheet and hft gently
and together. It is better to have the bed or
sofa on wliich the patient is to be lifted placed at
the side of the bed.
When a patient is well enough to sit up while
his bed is made, a comfortable chair should be
placed near and a large thick blanket spread
over it. Another blanket should be wrapped
round his body and legs as he is helped out of
bed, and when he sits down he should be en-
veloped in the blanket which was spread over
the chair. If the weather is cold, he should
have on a bed-jacket and warm socks before
he steps out of bed.
Water-Cushions and Beds. - In a long illness or
where the patient is very thin or helpless, a water-
cushion is necessary. It should be placed under
the lower part of the body to keep pressure off the
back and hips. A cushion twenty-eight inches
by eighteen inches will usually answer the pur-
pose very well. It should be filled with water at
about 90№ Fahr. or less if the weather is very hot.
The empty ctishion should be rolled under the
patient in the same way as sheets are changed
and then filled. A funnel should be used, and
great care must be taken not to spill the water.
Continue pouring in water until there is sufficient
in it to prevent any nart of the patient's body
I)ressing on the floor of the
cushion ; it must not be
too full or it will be hard.
A ring water-cushion is
often very useful.
Air-cushions are also used,
but they are apt to get
very hot and are not so good
as water ones.
Sometimes a full-sized
water-bed is necessary. In
this case boards have to be
placed across the bedstead
from side to side, to support its weight and to
keep it perfectly straight.
The Patient's Toiiet.- The daily bath is
needed in health and is even more necessary
in a long illness. Before commencing to bath
a patient see that the room is warm, and put
eveiy thing that is likely to be required in readi-
ness, i.e. basin of hot water, a face sponge, a
flannel for washing the body, some good soap,
a can of hot water, a pail for emptying water,
methylated spirits, powder, &c. Have a night-
dress airing at the fire ; there should always be
two in use - one for day and one for night.
A fresh draw-sheet should also bo in readiness
in case it is needed. Tommence by remo\'ing
the bed-spread and drawing out the top sheet ;
Air-Cushion.
then slip a largo bath-towel under the blanket.
If the room is warm only one blanket is needed
over the patient while he is being washed. If
he is at all collapsed or likely to feel cold, put a
hot bottle to his feet before you commence to
wash him. A patient should never be hurried,
but at the same time he should be washed as
quickly and deftly as possible, as otherwise he
will be tired before liis toilet is finished.
First wash and dry the face, then the neck,
hands, and arms. Next wash the lower limbs
under the blanket, tucking a towel close up to
the part that is being washed to avoid wetting
the bed-clothes. Turn the patient towards you
a little way to wash and rub the hip on the
further side. Next draw the bath-towel from
under the blanket, roll patient on his side, lay
the bath-towel up close alongside him and
wash the shoulders and back. The lower part
of the back and the hips must receive special
attention, and should be rubbed with methylated
spirits and powdered after drying.
When washing the feet, turn back the bed-
clothes from the foot of the bed, let the patient
draw up Ms knees, place a mackintosh and towel
under the feet, and put the foot-bath on the
bed. The feet can then be put right into the
bath.
When the washing is complete put on the
patient's night-dress and replace the sheet and
bed-spreaa. The night-dress should always be
quite loose, so that it can be easily put on.
In some cases it is necessary to have it opened
up the back as far as the yoke or collar, which
is just slipped over the head. Only one garment
should be worn in bed, but a warm flannel bed-
jacket should be at hand to put on if the patient
sits up or has his arms out of bed. Long loose
flannel jackets are the most useful, especially
in rheumatic fever and pneumonia cases, where
the slightest movement causes great pain.
They should be qmte plain, the sleeves should
be large and loose, and tied at the wrists with
tapes.
In a serious illness it is sometimes impossible
to wash a patient properly, although the doctor
may order frequent sponging to reduce the
temperature. In this case a loose flannel
jacket would be the most convenient garment to
wear, as the removal of a tight night-sliirt would
be too exhausting for the patient.
Care of the Teeth. - In these days great atten-
tion is being paid to the hygiene'of the mouth,
and it is most important that a patient's teeth
should be kept clean. With a Uttlo help he can
often clean his own teeth, even when not able
to sit up in bed. Place a towel under the chin,
moisten the tooth-brush and dip it in the denti-
frice, and hold the bottom of the soap-dish in
position for rinsing the mouth.
Wlien a patient is too iU to brush liis teeth,
this must be done for him. A soft tooth-brush
is the best tiling to use dipped in warm water
554
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
witli a few drops of liquid dentifrice, a little car-
bonate of soda, or weak Sanitas lotion. Clean
not only the tooth and gums, but the tongue
and roof of the mouth as well. This might
be repeated two or three times a day.
Care of the Hair. - Tliis must also have its
duo share of attention. In a short illness the
doily brushing and combing are generally
suflicient, and it is easy to keep a man's head
clean. A woman's hair should be plaited - one
plait on each side, but if the hair is thin and
short it is sometimes better to brush it up on to
the top of the head. In a long illness the scalp
should be rubbed frequently with some good
and reliable hair-wash to keep it in good condi-
tion. If there is much hair only half of it should
be done at a time. A patient's hair -brush and
comb must be kept scrupulously clean. When
the hair itself has to be washed, spread a mackin-
tosh and large bath -towel over the pillow.
Consideration for the Invalid. - In a very
serious case it is better to keep the patient as
quiet as jiossible, and to allow no \dsitors, unless
it is some one whom the patient particularly
wishes to see. Even then the visitor should be
warned that ho is to talk as little as possible and
told not to speak of subjects Ukely to cause ex-
citement. When the worst is past and during
convalescence it often cheers a patient to see
a few friends, but no visitor should be allowed
to make a long stay, as even in convalescence
a person is often so weak that over-excitement
may mean loss of sleep - " Nature's sweet
restorer " - which is so sorely needed after a
serious illness.
Never allow a visitor to sit on the bed. It
shakes and irritates the patient and causes
great discomfort, if not actual pain, and it
makes the bed look untidy.
Well-moaning people often cause trouble by
calling to inquire after an invalid, and unless
one can bo of real use to the patient or his friends
it is kinder not to call until the worst is over.
There is always extra work whore there is sick-
ness and no one has time to talk to visitors.
In tho case of a serious illness a daily bulletin
might be put on the front door, and tliis will
save not only the extra work entailed in answer-
ing the door to callers, but, what is more im-
portant, it will prevent the patient being dis-
turbed by tho constant ringing of the bell. In
fact, it is always bettor in the case of serious
illness to put up a notice asking visitors not to
ring, but to go round to tho back or side-door,
where soft knocks can easily be heard by the
servant. Of course, many small houses and
flats have no side-door. In a case of this kind
some plan must be thought out by tho friends
to ensure quiet to the patient. Necessary
noises can be borne more easily than unnecessary
ones. Although a person may be very ill he has
not lost all reasoning power, and he is naturally
vexed and irritated if he thinks that people are
not doing all that is possible to give him the
necessary peace. Ringing of bells, banging of
doors, and rattUng of fire-irons, crockery, or
newspapers are unnecessary noises which should
not be allowed. Tlie clicking of knitting-needles
is another sound which might be annojdng to a
patient. It is a rhytlimic sound like the ticking
of a clock, and might even bo soothing in some
instances, but an observant person can easily
see what vexes and what pleases and should act
accordingly.
Then, again, do not read aloud to a patient
unless you are quite sure he wishes it. Some
people like being read to when they are ill ; to
them it is soothing, while to others it is quite
tho reverse. Of course, when a patient is very
ill and tho temperature is high there should be
no reading aloud, as it would cause undue ex-
citement, and even when there is a change for
the better it is important that the patient should
get all the sleep he can to nuake up for past wake-
fulness, and too much reading would serve to
deprive him of a measure of this much-needed
rest. Whispering is a bad habit which should
never be permitted in the sick-room. The
patient will wonder what is being said that he
may not hear, and will probably come to the
conclusion that he has some very serious
symptoms.
An Insensible Patient is like a child and is
dependent on his nurse for everything. She
must see that he is warm, and that his bed is
dry. If hot bottles are necessary, they should
be covered, as serious burns have often been
caused through neglect in this respect.
In a case of this kind the vitality is very lew,
and persons easily get bed-sores unless the
greatest care is taken. These can easily be
prevented, but they are difficult to cure when
once thoy develop. A water -pillow is valuable
to keep the pressure off the back and hips. lu
is also important to examine the patient about
every two hours, and if tho draw-sheet is found
to be wet it should bo changed, the back and hips
washed, well dried, and rubbed with zinc oint-
ment. The position of the patient should be
changed frequently in order to relieve pressure
on any particular spot. If he has been lying on
his back for two hours he might be placed on his
side for the next two hours, a pillow being placed
along the back for support. This change of
position also prevents the lungs from getting
congested. A patient who is allowed to lie
long on his back will often contract serious
chest trouble. The friends at once conclude he
has " caught a cold," and, in consequence, wish
to close the windows, whereas tho trouble is
due to his having been left too long in one
position. An unconscious patient can often
breathe better on his side, so if he can breathe
equally well on either side he can bo turned from
side to sido alternately and need not lie on his
back at all.
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
555
Nourishment must be given very slowly and
carefully with a tea-spoon, very little being given
at a time. The spoon should be kept in the
mouth until the contents are gone, as it encour-
ages the patient to swallow. Be quite sure that
the drink is swallowed before giving more, and
do not go on feeding if you find he cannot
swallow, as what is given will only get into the
air passages, and may cause suffocation. The
head should always be turned a Uttle to one side
for feeding, as the food is less likely to go the
wTong way. It can be kept in position by a
small pillow nicely adjusted, or with the nurse's
arm passed under the pillow.
Nursing an Infectious Case. - The patient must
be isolated. A room at the top of the house
should be prepared, and, if possible, the entire
floor should be kept for the patient and his
attendants. All carpets, drapery, and unneces-
sarj"^ furniture should be taken out of the room
before the patient is taken into it. The furni-
ture which remains should be of the plainest
description, and the few covers or curtains that
are allowed should be of washing materials that
can be well boiled. A sheet kept well saturated
with carbolic (1 in 20) should be hung over the
doorway outside the sick-room. The room must
be kept scrupulously clean, and there must be
good ventilation without draughts. Unless the
weather is very hot there should be a fire. All
crockery used by the patient must he kept for
him, and should be washed in the room or in a
room adjoining. The food should be brought
up and placed CjI a table outside the sick-room,
and any that is left should be burned.
The patient must be washed every day, the
greatest care being taken that he does not get
a chill. It is important that the skin should
act properly and so help to eUminate impurities,
as otherwise too much work will be thrown on
the kidneys. When the patient's linen - either
bed or personal - is changed, the soiled articles
must be put into a bath containing carbolic
(1 in 20) or some Jeyes' fluid. They should
afterwards be boiled for half-an-hour, and then
dried in the open air.
All discharges from the patient must be
received in vessels containing a disinfectant.
Japanese handkerchiefs, or pieces of rag which
can be burnt should be use I in place of ordinary
handkerchiefs.
The person attending the patient should
not mix with the other members of the family.
She should wear a dross of washing material and
be cai'oful to wash her hands frequently. She
should keep her nails short and clean and should
frequently wash her mouth with boracic lotion.
If she goes out she should have a bath and change
her clothes, and she ought not to enter a shop or
any public conveyance.
Before the patient joins the family he should
have a number of hot batlis, and should be
washed all over with carbolic (1 in 20). He
must afterwards put on clean clothes. The
nurse must be very thoroughly disinfected in
the same manner. All her clothing worn in
the sick-room must be boiled or stoved.
The patient's nail-brush, tooth-brush, papers,
&c., should all be burned. All crockery, forks,
spoons, &c., used in the room should be well
washed in strong disinfectant, and, if possible,
boiled afterwards. The bedding and blankets,
and any of the patient's garments that ceinnot be
boiled, must be sent away to be stoved by the
Sanitary Authorities. If carpets and woollen
di-apery have been left in the room, they must
bo treated in the same manner.
The room must then be disinfected. All
articles left in it should be spread out and
well exposed - drawers and cupboards being
left open. This disinfecting can be done by
the Sanitary Authorities, who either fumigate
with sulphur or spray with formalin. The room
must remain shut up for twenty-four hours, and
for a day or two afterwards the windows and door
should be left wide open to allow the air to blow
through. The room and its contents should after-
wards be very thoroughly cleaned. All paint
should be washed with soap and water, the ceiling
white-washed, and the walls re-papered, the old
paper being first stripped off and burned.
To fumigate a room with sulphur the chimneys
and windows must be closed, and all crevices
covered with strips of brown paper. These are
generally pasted on, but this is not necessary
where there is varnish : the paper need only bo
wetted and it will adhere quite well, and is
more easily removed. Put about one pound of
sulphur or more broken into small pieces, accord-
ing to the size of the room, into an iron dish or
pan. Stand this in a bath containing water,
as a precaution against fire. Sprinkle with a
few drops of methylated spirits and set it alight.
Leave the room at once, close the door, and
cover all cracks with strips of brown paper.
Routine of a Day's Work. - Sometimes after
a bad night a patient may sleep for some hours
in the early morning. When he wakes he will
need refreshment. If on soUd food and able
to take ever so light a meal, he should have his
hands and face sponged before being propped
up to take his breakfast. If very ill he will of
coxirse only be able to take liquid diet. The
fireplace should be done up next and a supply
of coals brought in for the day. While the
servant is doing this, the nurse could take the
opportunity of performing any duties that would
take her out of the room. Tlie next thing
should be the patient's toilet. After he has been
washed, &c., the room should be put in order
and made to look as cheerful and bright as
possible. By this time the doctor will probably
be due. Wlien a patient is taking solid food
let him, if possible, have his dinner after the
doctor has been. Tliis visit is generally an
event which causes some excitement to thљ
556
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
patient, and he is almost sure to hurry his dinner
or not take it properly if he is expecting the
doctor, and if the visit is paid in the middle of
dinner the meal ^v^ll probably be spoiled. Tlie
patient should be allowed to rest in the early
afternoon, and at about foiu: he can have a cup
of tea unless this is forbidden. In the early
evening the temperature, &c., should be again
taken, and the patient should have his hands
and face sponged, and, if necessary, his back
should be attended to. If he is allowed, he
might sit up in a chair and have his bed made
in the evening ; he might even be able to sit up
for an hour or two.
It is, of course, quite impossible to lay down
any hard-and-fast rule as to what is to be done
during the day, as so much depends upon a
patient's condition and the special treatment
that is ordered. In some cases one is constantly
ha^^ng to perform special nursing duties for a
patient, and many things may happen to make
it impossible to do things at stated times, but
as far as possible do everything regularly,
whether it is giving nourishment - one of the
most important duties in sickness - taking a
temperature, washing the patient, or doing what-
ever the doctor orders.
. Convalescence. - Convalescence is often the
most trying time for both patient and nurse.
Do not think that when the worst is over there
is no further danger. For some time afterwards
the greatest care is needed if a patient is to re-
gain his lost strength and not fall a victim to
some other disease, such as phthisis, which often
follows pneumonia, measles, typhoid, &c. The
invalid's low condition makes him an easy
victim to disease germs, which, like mean
cowardly people, are always waiting to attack
the weak. The patient will need the same care
in feeding, and it may be necessary to take great
pains to tempt his appetite, as he will require
plenty of nourishment. On first getting up he
should not be dressed, as he will be very weak
and incUned to faint, but put on a warm dressing-
gown and a pair of socks and wrap him well
round in a blanket. At first he should only sit
up for a quarter or half -an -hour, the time being
gradually increased as ho gets stronger. Ho
should always be in a well-ventilated room, and,
if possible, should take rest on a balcony or in a
garden.
Friends must be admitted with caution and
not allowed to stay too long, especially towards
evening. Try to keep your patient cheerful
und free from worry ; this is not always easy,
as frequently he may be inclined to become
irritable and very exacting. Do not, however,
despise him for his capricious way, for his in-
decision of character, but nurse him back to
health with the same patience as was shown
to him during his hours of pain.
He should only be allowed to resume his
ordinary duties gradually, and for a time should
rest a little in the afternoon, take his breakfast
in bed, and retire early.
A change of air, to the sea or country, is
needed after a long acute illness.
FOOD
There is nothing more important in an illness
than diet, and much depends on a patient taking
liis food properly. In this the doctor's orders
must be strictly carried out. Many a person
has died through improper food being given by
foolish friends, as, for instance, solid food given to
any one suffering from gastric trouble or typhoid
fever.
Liquid Diet. - When a patient is very ill ho is
usually kept on a Hquid diet and milk is gener-
ally ordered, as it contains all tho elements
necessary to Ufe, and is easily assimilated.
Sometimes as much as three pints of milk are
ordered to be taken in twenty -four hours or a
teacupful every two hours. It often happens,
however, that a patient is unable to take as
much as this, and when this is the case, it is
better to let him take a smaller quantity and
digest it rather than force him to take a larger
quantity wliich will only cause sickness or in-
digestion. When only a little milk can be taken
at a time, the feeds should be more frequent.
Four or five table spoonfuls might be given
every hour, or even a smaller quantity every
half-hour.
Some people have a great dislike to milk and
often cannot digest it unless diluted. This may
be done by mixing it with soda-water, plain
water, or thin barley-water. It is also well to
vary a milk diet as much as possible. Sometimes
the milk may be given hot, at other times cold,
or it can be flavoured with a Uttle strong co3ee,
cocoa, or else tea can be made with milk. Some-
times for a change a patient may like Horlick's
Malted Milk or The Allenbury Diet, or, again,
the plain milk might be made into junket.
When the digestion is very bad the doctor
may order the milk to be peptonised. This can
be done with Fairchild's peptonising powders,
and the directions are found on the box con-
taining the powders, or Benger's Food, which
is also pre-digested, might be given for a change.
This also must be prepared according to the
directions given on the tin.
When there is difficulty of digestion, the feeds
should bo taken very slowly - merely sipped.
In cases of extreme exhaustion more nourish-
ment may be needed, and then eggs may be
beaten up in the milk, or a little strong beef
essence. Brand's essence or Panopeptin may
bo given between the feeds.
When brandy has been ordered give it in a
little soda-water, plain water, or in a small
quantity of milk. It should never bo put into
a tumbierful of milk, as it will flavour the whole
and may bo objectionable to the patient, aiid
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
557
he would be unable to take such a large quantity.
Brandy should not be poured out long before
being taken, as it loses its stimulating properties
and becomes useless.
It should be remembered that beef-tea is not
so much a food as a stimulant, and should be
given alternately with other food. Milk can be
given alternately with beef -tea, invalid bovril,
veal or chicken broth, or the white of an egg
can be lightly beaten up and given with soda-
water or plain water.
In cases where only a little is taken, give
nourishment in a concentrated form, such as
strong beef -essence, or Panopeptin, &c.
In most cases it is a good thing to give the
patient plenty of water, but it must not be given
instead of nourishment. When there is great
thirst, barley-water flavoured with lemon may
be given
Feeding a Helpless Patient. - In feeding a
helpless patient put a table napkin under his
chin and then place one arm under his pillow
and gently raise liis head. Use a small teacup or
glass for the feeds if possible, as a patient usually
prefers this to a feeder. When the latter has
to be used it must be most carefully washed and
The "Ideal" Feeder.
frequently scalded, as, unless great care is taken,
some particles of food wall be left in the spout.
The " Ideal " feeder is to be recommended, as
it has no spout, which is an advantage.
Regularity in Feeding. - When a patient is on
fluid diet only, his feeds should be given at regular
intervals by night as well as by day. It must
also be remembered that his strength is at its
lowest ebb in the early hours of the morning,
and care should be taken that he has some
nourishment at that time. If he is at all cold,
give a -warm drink, and a stimulant if this has
been prescribed. If a patient is having a good
sleep he may sometimes be allowed to miss a
feed, but if very exhausted he must never bo
left too long without nourishment.
Diet in Convalescence. - From fluids a patient
goes on gradually to light solid foods. At first
it may be that his milk or beef-tea is only
tliickened with a Uttle arrowroot or cornflour,
then he may have bread and milk, a lightly
boiled or poached egg, or some milk jelly or
pudding. After this would follow fish, either
boiled or steamed, then chicken boiled, steamed,
or roasted, and a little later a steamed or grilled
chop. Always try to give the food which is most
nutritious and most easily digested. When the
diet is restricted prepare the foods allowed in
the most varied ways possible.
The most easily digested vegetables are
cauliflower, chicory, spinach, boiled lettuce, sea-
kale, and celery. Most vegetables should not
be given at first.
All fruit given should be fresh, and, as a rule,
it is better stewed than raw. A little fresh
cream may be given with the fruit, as this is
a good way of supplying the invalid with fat.
Stewed apples with cream or stewed prunes and
cream are both very good dishes.
On pp. 558-59 are given a few recipes,
specially suited to invaUds, and many dishes
suitable for the convalescent stage will be found
in the "Guide to Cookery " (p. 116), while those
who wish to study the subject more fully might
consult a special book on invahd cookery,
such as the " Art of Cooking for InvaUds,"
by Florence B. Jack.
As soon as solid food is allowed, the meals
should be given regularly at the ordinary hours.
A patient is sure to take liis food better when
this is done. He will onty be able to take small
meals at first, and must have good nourishing
drinks in between. He must also be fed during
the night. The quantity he needs will vary
according to how much ho takes in the day, and
whether he sleeps or not at night. If a break-
fast-cup of milk, thin arrowroot or Benger's is
given the last thing, and the patient sleeps well,
he may not need feeding again until the early
morning, but if he is wakeful and does not take
food well, ho will need nourishment every two or
three hours. It is most important that a patient
should take his food well in the eeirly stages of
convalescence.
Preparation of the Meal. - Whatever food is
given should be the best of its kind, and never
stale or tainted in any way. It is also im-
portant to have it well cooked, and all utensils
used must be kept scrupulously clean. The
cooking should not be done in the invalid's room,
as the smell of the food would be sure to spoil
his appetite.
Never ask a patient what he would like, but
find out what his tastes are in some other way
and indulge them as fai" as possible, always
providing that they do not incline toward&
prohibited articles of diet.
A bad appetite can often bo stimulated with
a tasty little meal that comes as a surprise.
The meal must also bo daintily served. Always
have a perfectly clean and pretty tray-cloth,
and use nice bright glass, china, silver and
cutlery. If there is a garden from which a fresh
supply of flowers may be had, a small bunch of
558
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
freshly gathered flowers or even a single sweet-
smelling bloom might be placed on the tray.
Take care that a hot meal is really hot, and also
have the plates properly warmed.
Do not give a patient too much at a time ; a
piled-up plateful might set him against the food,
whilst a second helping can easily be given.
\Vlien a meal is to be served, have the patient
comfortably propped up beforehand, and see
that he has on a warm bed-jacket or other wrap.
A jacket is always better than a shawl.
Keeping the Food. - Never keep food in the
sick-room if you can help it, but, if possible, put
it in a cool larder, only taking enough in tho
room for immediate use. At night when it may
not be possible to leave tho room, the nourish-
ments might be placed on a little table outside
the door on the landing and near an open
•window if convenient. Only hght nourishment
is given at night, and jugs of beef-tea or milk
may be kept outside on the window-ledge if the
weather allows. The jugs must then be covered
with clean musKn - a large bead on each corner
will generally serve to keep a piece of muslin
in position, but if the wind is high or there is
danger of dust and smuts, small plates or
saucers will be better.
Beef Juice
Ingredients. - From 4 to 6 oz. lean juicy
beef - salt.
Method. - Clioose a piece of beef from the
rump or upper part of the round and see that
it is freshly cut. Remove all fat, broil the meat
quickly on both sides for one or two minutes
to set the juice free. Tlien cut it in strips and
squeeze out the juice with a lemon-squeezer
or vegetable -presser into a warm cup. Add
salt if necessary, and serve at once, as it does not
keep well.
Beef-Tea
Ingredients -
} lb. lean, juicy Beef. I A pinch of Salt.
I pint Cold Water. I
Melhod. - Wipe the meat with a damp cloth
to make sure of its being quite clean.
Then place on a board, and with a sharp knife
scrape or shred down as finely as possible, keep-
ing back any pieces of fat and skin.
Put it into a ba.sin with the salt and water,
stir it well up, cover tho basin with a plate, and,
if time permits, let it stand for half -an hour.
Then pour all into a clean lined saucepan,
place the pan over rather a slow fire, and, with
two forks placed back to back, whisk it well
until it almost reaches boiling point. Tlien
draw the ]ian to the side of the fire, put on the
lid, and allow the beef-tea to simmer as slowly
as possible from ten to twelve minutes.
Strain and remove the fat from the top with
a piece of paper.
Steamed Fish
Ingredients -
1 filleted Haddock, Whiting,
or Sole.
A pinch of Salt.
A pinch of White Pepper.
A little Butter.
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Method. - Cut the fish into neat pieces and
place them on a greased plate.
Sprinkle with a little salt and white pepper, if
it is allowed, and squeeze over some lemon juioe,
which helps to keep the fish firm and white, and
also aids digestion. Cover the fish with a piece
of greased white paper and then with a lid or
basin. Place this over a pan half full of boiling
water, and cook from twenty to thirty minutes,
until the fish loses its clear, transparent appear-
ance, and looks quite white. If the pieces are
thick it will be better to turn them once dvu-ing
cooking. The liquid that is on the plate when
the fish is cooked is the juice from the fish, and
should be served with it.
This is the lightest and simplest mode of
cooking fish for an invalid.
Sometimes a white sauce is made (see p. 146)
and poured over it. The liquid in this case
should be added to the sauce.
Stewed Fish
Ingredients -
1 filleted Fish- Whiting,
Haddock, Sole, or Plaice.
1 table-sp. Bread-crumbs.
i gill Cold Water.
1 gill Milk.
i oz. Butter.
1 tea-spoonful
Parsley.
White Pepper
Salt.
chopped
Method. - Wipe the fish with a damp cloth,
and cut it into small, neat pieces. Take a clein
lined saucepan, rinse it out with water to prevent
the fish sticking to it, and place the pieces of fish
at the foot. Sprinkle over them a little salt and
white pepper, pour on the milk and water ; put
the lid on the pan, and let the fish cook slowly
by the side of the fire until it is ready, which
will bo from ten to fifteen minutes. Lift out the
pieces of fish on to tho plate on which they have
to bo served, and keep them hot. Add the
bread-crumbs and tho butter to the water and
milk in tho pan ; stir over the fire for a few
minutes until the bread-crumbs swell and thicken
tho sauce. Sprinkle in the parsley, finely
chopped, and then pour tliis sauce over the fish.
Chicken or Veal Panada
Ingredients -
J lb. breast of Chicken, or
J lb. fillet of Veal.
1 tea-spoonful Cold Water.
Method. - Wipe tho meat, and cut it into small
pieces, free from fat and skin. Put it into a cup
or small basin, with a pinch of salt and the cold
water ; tie over it a piece of greased white paper,
and steam slowly from one to one and a half
hours. Then lift out, and put the contents of
1 or 2 table-sp. Cream.
A pinch of Salt.
HOME NURSING Al^D" FIRST AID"
559
the basin into a mortar ; pound well, and rub
through a fine wire sieve. Put the sieved
mixture into a pan, add the cream, and heat
through. This may be served on a piece of
toast, or even cold. If considered too rich, use
a little more water in the cooking, and omit the
cream.
Ingredients-
1 Pigeon.
J oz. Butter.
J pint Stock.
Stewed Pigeon
I tea-spoonful Flour.
Pepper and Salt.
A slice Toast.
Method. - Prepare and truss the pigeon as for
roasting, and coat it over with the flour. Melt
the butter in a small stewpan and, when smoking
hot, put in the pigeon, and brown it on all sides.
Then lift it on to a plate, and pour away all the
grease that is left in the pan. Pour in the stock,
and, wheii warm, return the pigeon.
Put the lid on the pan, and allow the bird to
stew very gently from one to two hours, accord-
ing to age and size. When quite tender lift it
out on to a neat square of toast, and remove the
trussing string from it.
Reduce the gravy in the pan by allowing it to
boil quickly without the lid, until there is just
enough left for serving. Keep it well skimmed,
that it may be quite free from grease, and then
pour it round the pigeon.
Garnish with a sprig of parsley or a little
water-cress.
Raw Beef Sandwiches
Take two ounce of lean, juicy beef. Wipe it
with a cloth, and with a sharp knife shred it
down as finely as you would for beef -tea. Pound
this in a mortar, with any seasoning that may
be allowed, and rub through a fine wire sieve.
Spread between thin slices of bread, with a Uttle
butter on it, if it is allowed, and cut it into neat
strips.
Those sandwiches are generally ordered for
special cases.
A Cup of Arrowroot
Ingredients -
J oz. Arrowroot. I 1 tea-spoonful of Sugar,
i pint of Cold Water. |
Method. - Put the arrowroot into a small basin,
add to it a table-spoonful of the cold water, and
break it with a wooden spoon until qviite smooth.
Then pour on the rest of the water, mix wcl',
and pour into a small lined saucepan. Stir this
over the fire until it boils and thickens, and then
let it boil from seven to ton minutes longer, to
thoroughly cook the arrowroot. Sweeten to
tast", and serve in a cup or small basin.
A little nutmeg may bo grated over the top of
it, and wine or cream added a? wished.
Note. - ^]\Iilk may bo used instead of water.
Tapioca Pudding
Ingredients -
J oz. Tapioca. 1 tea-spoonful Sugar.
J pint Cold Milk. Flavouring (if wished).
lEgg.
Method. - Put the tapioca into a basin, and
pour the milk on to it. Cover the basin, and
let the tapioca soak about an hour. Rinse out
a small hned saucepan, turn the tapioca and milk
into it, and stir over the fire until it comes to the
boil. Then simmer slowly until it turns quite
clear, stirring it every now and then. The time
will vary from twenty to thirty minutes, accord-
ing to the size of the tapioca used. If it becomes
too thick whilst cooking, add a httle more milk.
When ready, remove the pan from the fire, and
sweeten and flavour to taste. After it has cooled
a little, stir in the yolk of egg, and lastly the
white, beaten to a stiff froth. Pour the mixture
into a small greased pie-dish, wiping round the
edges of the dish. Bake in a moderate oven
until nicely browned. Sprinkle with sugar and
serve at once.
Note. - Sago pudding may be made in the
same way.
Ingredients -
2 baked Apples.
J gill of Double Cream.
Apple Cream
A squeeze of Lemon Juice.
Sugar to taste.
Method. - Remove the pulp from two baked
apples, and rub it through a fine wire or hair
sieve, scraping the sieve well underneath. Put
the pulp into a basin, add to it the cream, a
squeeze of lemon juice, and sweeten to taste
with castor sugar. Beat this well for a few
minutes and serve in a small glass dish.
Egg Drink
1 table-sp. Sherry.
1 teacupful of Milk.
Ingredients -
lEgg.
1 tea-spoonful Sugar.
Method. - Break the egg and remove the speck.
Add to it the wine and sugar, and beat together
with a fork, but do not make them too frothy.
Heat the milk in a small saucepan, and, when
almost boiling, pour it on to the egg, &c., stirring
all the time. Serve hot.
Note. - The wine may be omitted. The yolk
of egg only may be used, and soda-water instead
of milk.
Oatmeal Gruel
Ingredients -
1 table- spoonful fine Oat- I J pint Cold Water,
meal. I Salt or Sugar.
Method. - Put the oatmeal into a clean basin
and pour the water over it. Cover the basin
and let it stand for at least half-an-hour, stirring
occasionally. Tlien strain the liquid off into a
small lined saucepan, and press the oatmeal as
560
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
dry as possible. Stu- over the fire until boiling,
and boil from five to seven minutes. The thick-
ness of the gruel is very much a matter of taste ;
if too thick, more water can be added ; or if too
thin, use more oatmeal. Season to taste with
salt or sug6ir. .
A small piece of butter may be added and wine
or brandy if required. Serve very hot. Milk
may be used instead of water.
SPECIAL APPLIANCES
A Bed-Cradle.- When the weight of the bed-
clothes has to be kept off the patient, a " cradle "
is needed. This may be bought for 4s. or 53.,
or, if only for temporary use, one may be easily
improvised. When required
to go over the body, it can
be made from an ordinary
wooden hoop of a con-
venient size. Cut the hoop
in two and place the two
arches thus formed side by
side about half a yard apart.
Join them together at the
top with a piece of wood
across the centre and at the bottom with a piece
•of wood on either side. Or another way is to
make the two halves of the hoop cross each
other, joining them in the middle with a nail.
If the " cradle " is only needed to protect an in-
jured limb, an ordinary kitchen-stool or a strong
bandbox with the lid and bottom removed can
be matle to answer the purpose. Whenever a
♦' cradle " is used, the part it protects must be
covered (under the cradle) with a small Ught
blanket or a piece of flannel.
A Bed-Rest is a contrivance for supporting
a patient's head and back when he is sitting
Bed-Cradle.
a chair on its side with the back towards the
patient. Pillows must, of course, bo placed
between the patient and the bed-rest.
A Bed-Table. - This is convenient to put in
front of a patient when he takes liis meals in
Bed-Eest.
up in bed. Thnre are several different kinds.
Those with an iron frame painted white wth
white canvas laced in are good, as they can bo
easily washed and kept clean. Or a wooden one
with a cane centre is comfortable and easily
adjusted. A bed-rest can also be improvised
if it is only required for a short time by placing
Bed-Table.
bed, and it is also useful for holding a book
or writing materials during convalescence. TTie
simplest kind is made hke a tray on four legs
hollowed out a Uttle in front. Another but moro
expensive table stands on the floor and has a
Table with Revolving Top.
revohang top which can be turned round in
front of the patient when required.
A Pulley is useful in helping a patient to raise
himself. One can be made with a stout piece oi
rope attached to a strong screw in the ceiling.
To the lower end of the rope a bar of wood should
be attached for the patient to grasp when he
wishes to hft himself. A roller towel fastened
to the foot of the bed can also bo made to do
duty as a pulley. .
Hot- water Bottles are frequently needed in
illness. There are several different kiuds. The
stone ones are cheapest, but india-rubber ones
are much more comfortable, while those made
of tin and copper will keep hot tho longest. An
india-rubber bottle is useful in applying heat to
almost any part of the body, and it can even be
used instead of a poultice. If it is put over the
patient, it must not be filled too full, or it will
be too hcavv. When not in use, the india-
rubber bottle' should be filled with air- it is leas
hkely to perish when this is done. Great care
should be taken that screws or corks are quite
Eocuro, and all hot-water bottles should have
flannel covers.
Bed-pans.- These are used for patients who
are unable to get out of bed. Tho most ordinary
shapes are the round and the slipper, and they
may be had either in enamelled tin or stone-
ware. The round one is easily passed under the
patient when the body is slightly raised, men
the slipper is given, the patient's knees should bo
HOME NURSIKG AND "FIKST AID"
561
drawn up, when the tliin end of the slipper can
be gently passed under the back. Care should
be taken to warm the bed-pan before administer-
ing it, either with hot water or before the fire.
If the patient is thin, a little pad of flannel or
cotton wool should be put on the edge to prevent
pressiu^e. In giving a bed-pan a nurse should
pass her free hand under the patient's back to
raise him. If the patient is very heavy and
helpless, two people are needed - one to raise
him and the other to pass the bed-pan. Never
use a bed-pan on which the enamel is worn, nor
one made of ware which is cracked, as both might
cause serious injuries. The india-rubber bed-
pan, which is also an air-cushion, is very viseful
where there is incontinence. It is very com-
fortable, and can be left under patient for any
length of time. It must, of course, be emptied
when necessary, care being taken not to spill
the contents. The receiver part should be lined
with a piece of soft, but strong, paper before it
is put into position, as it is much more easily
emptied when this is done.
Enemata. - An enema is often ordered when
there is constipation, or when it is necessary to
empty the lower bowel. It is usuallj' given
with a Higginson's syringe. This is a tube
with a bulb in the middle
which acts as a pump.
At one end there is a bone
no:5Zile wliich has to be
passed into the rectum ;
at the other end there is
a piece of metal which
acts as a valve. The metal
end is put into the basin
of fluid which is to bo
injected ; the ball in the centre is squeezed,
the water is drawn up and is passed into the
bowel.
Before inserting the nozzle be sure to expel
all air from the syringe. To do this put both
ends of the syringe into the fluid, and squeeze
the bulb a number of times, until there are no
bubbles in the water. If air is injected into the
bowel, it will not only cause pain and discom-
fort, but will probably cause the fluid to bo
returned. When an enema has to be given, the
patient should be placed on his left side with the
knees drawn up. In case oi accidents it is well
to put a mackintosh covered with a towel under
the pelvis. Wliere a patient is in a very feeble
condition, and there is likely to bo difficulty
in retaining the injection, the pillow should be
taken from under the head and placed under the
thighs. Sometimes the patient cannot be turned,
and the enema has to be given as he lies on his
back. In a case of this kind, place the bed-pan
in position before commencing to give the enema.
A patient should always bo told to do his best
to retain the enema while it is being given, and
for a few minutc^s afterwards. Tlio nozzle must
always be smeared with vaseline before use.
Higginson's Syringe,
It is not always easy to pass it into the rectum,
but force should never be used. It should be
passed slowly and gently. The fluid should be
injected very slowly, as it is then much more
likely to be retained. Sometimes there seems
to be a resistance in the bowel, and the fluid
cannot bo passed in ; in this case withdraw the
nozzle, squeeze the bulb, and re-insert the nozzle.
Always keep the metal end of the syringe under
the water in the bowl. For this reason a little
more fluid should be mixed than is required.
If the metal end is uncovered, air will enter
the syringe. If this should happen by accident,
then the nozzle must be withdrawn, both ends
of syringe must be put in the fluid, and the
syringe refilled. The nozzle has again to be
inserted and the remainder of the fluid injected.
Of course, an enema should only be given when
ordered by the doctor, and when an amateur nixrse
is in attendance he would naturally give very
minute instructions and be willing to give all the
information desired.
The most ordinary enema is soap and water.
About a quart is usually given to a grown-up
person ; children are given about one pint, and a
small infant would only be given an ounce.
To make a soap and water enema take a piece of
soft soap about the size of a hazel nut, pour on
boiling water and stir well until the soap has
dissolved. Cold water must be added until
the water is the right heat - 100№ Fahr. The best
plain yellow soap may be used instead of soft
soap.
Turpentine Enema. - This is prepared by
adding from half an ounce to an ounce (one or
two table-spoonfuls) of turpentine to a pint of
soap and water, barley-water, or thin gruel,
according to the doctor's order. Turpentine
mixes best with thin gruel, but whatever is used
great care should be taken that the turpentine is
well mixed.
A Salt Enema is made by adding a table-spoon-
fvil of salt to a pint of thin gruel or water ; the
latter is generally used.
Castor oil Enema. - Mix two table-spoonfuls of
the oil with a pint of soap and water.
Olive oil Enema may be mixed in the same
way, or the oil may be injected first and followed
up with soap and water. It is sometimes a good
plan to inject the olive oil (about eight table-
spoonfuls) at night, and if the patient lies on his
right side it can bo retained without discomfort.
The oil softens the fseccs, and w hen a soap enema
is given in the mornmg there should bo a good
result. Tlio olive oil can be warmed by standing
tho vessel containing it in a larger one of hot
water for a few minutes. It should be about
blood heat. A small sjTingo might be used.
Starch and Opium Enema. - A half to a tea-
spoonful of laudanum is mixed with eight table-
spoonfuls of thin starch. Tliis injection is in-
tended to bo retained, and should be given
cool. Sometimes raw starch is ordered. This
2n
o62
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
is frequently given with a ball syringe. To 611
the ball sjTinge, squeeze the ball in the palm of
the hand, put the point of the nozzle into the
fluid, then gradually loosen tho ball. In this
way the syringe is filled. Tlic nozzle is injected
as far as it will go, and tho ball gradually com-
pressed until it is empty. The ball must remain
compressed until the nozzle has been withdrawn ;
if it is loosened beforehand, some of the fluid
will be drawn back into the s>Tinge.
Glycerine Enema. - Pour from a tea-spoonful
to a table-spoonful of glycerine into a sniall
vessel and stand it in a larger one containing
warm water for two or three minutes to
take off the cliiU. There are special glycerine
syringes, but a small ordinary glass one answers
Glass Syringe.
the purpose quite well. Fill the syringe with
glycerine, and then expel the air by holding tho
syringe with its point uppermost and gently
pushing up the piston until tho glycerine reaches
the point of the syringe. Sometimes a glycerine
suppository is ordered. It is cone-shaped and
, easily given.
Natrient Enemata. - It is necessary in certam
diseases of the stomach, or after an operation,
or when there is vomiting and food cannot be
taken by the mouth, to give nourishment by the
rectum. The fluid given should be about the
consistency of cream, and may be composed of
strong beef -tea, milk, beaten-up eggs, Benger's
Food, Horlick's Malted Milk, or whatever tho
doctor orders. As the food will not pass tlirough
the stomach, it should be artificially digested
before being given, as it is then more easily
absorbed. It can bo peptonisod or artificially
digested with liq. pancreaticus (Benger's) or
with Fairchild's peptonising powders. Failing
these a pinch of salt should be used to each
feed.
For injecting food it is best to use tubing and
. a glass funnel. Have two feet of soft india-
rubber tubing and attach it at one end to a glass
funnel. Tho other end is joined by means of a
small glass tube to a soft india-rubber catheter
Tube with Glass FunneL
- the purpose, but the longer length of tubing is
more convenient. Have the nutriment ready
in a cup or small jug and at a temperature of
about 99№ Falir. Put the funnel, tubing, &0.,
into a basin of warm water and bring all to tho
bedside. Then remove the apf)liance from the
water, smear the catheter with vaseline and
insert slowly and gently into tho rectum about
five inches. Pinch the tubing just below the
funnel and pour in the nutrient, then gradually
drop by drop let it escape into the tube. Not
less than ten minutes should be allowed for
giving the above quantity, and longer if more
is ordered. A trained nurse would be able to
give the enen\ata without assistance, but an
amateur would be glad to have some one to
povu' in the fluid for her. The patient must bo
kept in the same position and quite still for
some time after hav-ing a nutrient enema.
It should be given about every four hours - not
oftener.
When a patient is being fed by the rectum he
should be given a soap and water or plain water
enema every morning. This is necessary to
keep the lower bowel free from debris. The
nutrient injection must not be given until a
good half-hour after the enema. Tubings,
nozzles, catheters, and funnels should always be
boiled for a quarter of an ho\ir after use. A
Higginson's syringe can be cleansed by syringing
hot water through it. A very good one can be
boiled, but an inferior one would probably spoil
in the process. When not in use tho syringe
should be oiled and hung up by a piece of string
attached to the metal end.
Saline Injection. - This is sometimes ordered
in cases of collapse. Allow a tea-spoonful of
salt to a pint of water - temperature 100№ Fahr.
Tliis is best given with the funnel and tubing,
but could bo given with a Higginson's syringe,
when a glass funnel is not procurable. The out-
side of an ordinary glass sj-ringe will answer the
purpose, and the tubing of a
iDabies' feeding-bottle can bo
made to take the place of
catheter and tubing.
Inhalations. - Sometimes a
doctor will order certain drugs
to be inhaled. The inhaler,
which can be piorchased at a
chemist's, is filled with boiUng
water and the drug added. A
jug can also be made to answer
the purpose. A towel should
be wrapped round and made to
cover all the top except the spout from which
the stoam escapes.
Applied Steam.- When it is necessary for the
.vir to bo warm and moist a steam -kettle and tent
may bo ordered. A tent can bo improvised with
a clothes-horse and sheets. Tlie top and three
sides of the bed should be covered in. When a
clothes-horse is not at hand, a long broom-stick
can be fixed to each corner of the bedstead to
make a framework for the tent. Care should
be taken that the air of the room is very fresh.
Inhaler.
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
563
as steam tents are apt to get " stuffy." The
kettle should be placed just outside the tent
and the steam directed towards the patient by
means of a long spout, care being taken that the
steam does not go too near the face. If the fire-
place is conveniently near the tent, the kettle
can be kept boiling on the fire ; if not, a spirit
Steam-Eettle.
or oil-stov"> must be used. Special steam -kettles
can be bought, or a long spout to fix on to an
ordinary kettle can be obtained for fourpence
or sixpence. A long spout can also be im-
provised with brown paper in an emergency,
but this soon softens with the steam, and has
to be frequently renewed.
Spit-Cups. - ^Vhen there is expectoration a
spit-cup is needed. Tliose
with adjustable tops are the
best. Some disinfectant should
always be put into them, as
this prevents the sputum from
getting dry. If there is no
disinfectant at hand or if the
smell is objected to, strong
soda-water can be used. Tlio
cup must be kept scrupulously clean.
Spit-Cup.
THE TEMPERATURE, PULSE, AND
RESPIRATION
In illness it is most important to ascertain the
temperature of the body. This is taken by a
small glass clinical thermometer which is self-
E
1.V.I i.i..t...i ^-A..\...i'u...r
Clinical Thermometer.
registering. The mercury should always be
shaken down before use. It registers quickest
in the mouth and should be put under the
tongue. If a patient is unconscious it can bo
taken in the axilla, which must first be wiped
dry, and the arm should be held close to the
body, as otherwise the thermometer might slip
out of position and fail to register properly.
In children the temperature is best taken in the
axilla or groin. It is lowest at about four in the
morning and highest between six and eight in
the evening. In some cases it is only necessary
to take it twice a day - morning and evening.
In very serious cases it should bo taken every
four hoiu-s, and sometin es oftener. The normal
temperatia-e is 98-4" F., and anything much above
or below that indicates illness. In rheumatic
fever, typhoid fever, and pneiimonia the tempera-
ture will sometimes rise to 105№ F. and 106№ F.,
and unless means are taken to reduce it, it may
go up to 108№ F. or even 110№ F. In cases of
this kind very prompt measures have to be
taken. Always cleanse a thermom.eter -well
after use. It should be washed in (1 to 20)
carbolic if it is being used for more than one
patient. A patient suffering from phthisis
should always have a thermometer kept speci-
ally for him.
The normal pulse rate in an adult is from
70 to 80 per minute. It is much quicker in
cliildren. In illness it is often very quick, and
in some cases goes up to 180. Always use a
watch with a seconds hand when taking a
pulse and count for a full minute. Note if it
is feeble, irregular, or bounding. With a high
temperature there is usually a quick pulse ;
a very qmck pulse with a sub-normal tempera-
ture is a bad symptom ; it means that the
patient is becoming collapsed.
The normal respiration is from 18 to 20 per
nunute. In a long and serious illness it is a
good plan to register the temperature, pulse, and
respiration on a chart.
MEDICINES
Care aud Administration. - The medicines
should be kept on a little tray and always away
from liniment bottles. Keep them well corked.
In giving medicine, shake the bottle and read
the directions carefully, no matter how many
times you have given the medicine. Pour it
out from the side not labelled, as otherwise
some drops maj' run down and make it im-
possible to read the directions. As far as
possible give the doses regularly and at the
tiines stated. Measure in a proper medicine
glass, and when drops are ordered use a minim
glass. If medicine is ordered to be taken after
[-60
5- SO
.♦o
F-so
- ae
=- |0
Medicine Glass.
Minim Glass.
food be sure you give it after, and if before food
then give it before, otherwise it will not have
the desired effect. If for any reason a dose has
to be missed, do not give a double dose on the
next occasion. Wash and dry the medicine
glass after use.
Castor oil can be given in a little hot coffee.
Pour a little coffee in the medicine glass, then
the castor oil, and then a little more coffee. It
can bo given in the same way with orange or
lemon juice or with brandy. If given in milk
564
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
it should be well beaten up. Cod-liver oil can
be taken in the same way. A little salt taken
afterwards will help to get rid of the taste.
Keep a separate glass or cup for giving oils, and
wipe it afterwards with a bit of old linen. Then
wash bv itself in a little very hot water.
Salts', which must always be well mixed, are
given in a small quantity of hot water before
breakfast, one or two table-spoonfuls being the
dose. Pills, if they cannot be swallowed, may
be put inside bread or jam. Pills are generally
given at night. Powders may be mixed with
butter or jam, or put in a little milk. They are
sometimes put inside little cachets of wafer
paper.
VVhen a sleeping draught is ordered, settle
the patient for the night before giving it, and
see that the house is quiet afterwards.
Liquid Measure
1 drop
1 tea-spoonlul
1 dessert-spoonful
1 table-spoonful
2 table-spoonfuls
1 wineglassful
1 teacupful
1 breakfast-cupful
1 Minim.
1 Drachm.
2 Drachms.
4 Drachms or J oz.
1 oz.
About 2 oz.
4 to 5 oz.
About 8 oz.
BATHS
Special baths arc sometimes ordered in cases
of illness, and they must be given with great
exactitude.
The following are the rules as regards tempera-
ture : -
Cold Bath should be 33№ to 65№ F.
Cool Bath " 65' to 80№ F.
Tepid Bath " 80№ to 90№ F.
Warm Bath " 90№ to 100' F.
Hot Bath " 100' to 112№ F.
Before giving a bath see that the room is
warm, and close the window for the time being.
Have ready a bath thermometer, hot blankets,
towels, and hot bottles or bricks. When a bath
is ordered, it is easily given if the patient can
step in with a little assistance ; if he is too ill
to do this, the bath is generally given under the
doctor's special direction or by a skilled nurse,
m the lifting is a very difficult matter for the
amateur. He should be well dried with a hot
towel, and a warm flannel nightgown should bo
slipped on as quickly as possible. He should
then be wrapped in a warm blanket and put back
to bed with hot bottles, placing them over the
blanket which is covering him. Then give a
hot drink. The u.ses of a hot bath are various ;
it is given to relievo pain and to induce per-
spiration. A patient should be carefully watched
while in a hot bath, as he may become faint.
Great care should be taken that he does not get
a chill. Ho should remain in the bath about
twenty minutes.
Mustard Foot-Bath. - Use from one to two
ounces of mustard to a gallon of hot water.
Mix the mustard first in a little cold water and
add it to the bath. Keep the feet in until the
skin has reddened. A hot bottle should be put
to the feet afterwards. This foot-bath can
easilj' bo given in bed. (See " Patient's Toilet.")
Soda Bath. - Dissolve from a quarter to half a
poimd of soda in a full-sized bath.
The Sulphur Bath. - Dissolve four ounces of
sulphurate of potash in thirty gallons of water.
It should be made weaker for children.
Hot Air and Vapour Baths. - A special apparatus
can be bought for giving a hot-air bath, or it can
be given with an Allen's steam-kettle with the
boiier removed. Have a blanket at the bottom
of the bed. Take off the patient's nightgown,
and wrap liim loosely in a small blanket. Put a
mackintosh under him, then place a cradle over
him, and put a mackintosh over the cradk
Remove the ordinary bed-clothes and put hot
blankets over the mackintosh. See that the
patient is entirely covered except his face. The
lamp is next Ughted and placed on a stool at the
foot of the bed. The tube from the lamp is
passed under the cradle, care being taken that it
does not touch the patient, or he may be badly
burned. Tlie blankets must bo tucked in well
all round the bed, and must fit up closely to the
tube so that the hot air does not escape or the
cold au- enter. A thermometer should be hung
up inside the cradle to measure tlie temperature,
which should be from 110№ to ISO"" F. Give hot
drinks, or, if the patient is very thirsty, he may
have a cold drink of lemon water - either hot or
cold drinks may help him to perspire. Tlie
drinks must be given as ho lies in bed - ^he must
not sit up or take his arms out of bed. At the
end of twenty minutes remove the lamp and
slip out the mackintoshes and cradle. Leave
him wrapped in his blanket for about n.i
hour. Then rub him down quickly with hot
towels, remove the blanket in which he has been
wrapped and the others if damp. Wrap him in
a warm flannel gown and put a hot bottle to his
feet. The ordinary bed-clothes can be put back,
but the patient must have blankets next him.
A Vapour Bath can be given in the same way
as above, but in this case use a steam-kettle.
Moist heat cannot bo borne over 100№ F. to 110№ F.
These baths are usually given in cases of neph-
ritis, inflammation of the kidney, and in rheu-
matism. In both cases the patient should always
wear flannel nightgowns and bo kept between
blankets. When a patient can sit up, a hot-air
or vapour bath can be given as ho sits in a cane-
bottomed chair with blankets wrapped round
him, a lamp being placed underneath the chair.
Or a vapour bath can be given by putting a
bucket of hot water under the chair.
Hot Pack. - Tliis is ordered to induce perspira-
tion. Place a small light blanket rolled up
lenethwise in a bath, pour boiling water over it,
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
ObO
and wring out as hot as possible. It is better
for two people to do tho wringing. Have the
patient on liis side, place the rolled part of the
blanket close to his back. Roll him gently over
and envelop him entirely in the blanket with
the exception of the face and head. Cover with
a hot dry blanket, on the outside of which
place hot bottles. Put on more warm blankets
and give warm drinks. At the end of twenty
minutes remove the wet blanket, dry the patient
with warm towels, change any blankets that are
damp, putting in fresh warm ones, and then put
the patient into a warm flannel night-dress. He
should be left for a time rolled in a warm blanket
under the bed-clothes, and fresh hot bottles
should be put in.
Cold Pack. - Proceed as for the hot pack, but
instead of the hot blanket use a sheet wrung out
of iced water. Spread another sheet over the
patient and rub this down with pieces of ice
to keep it cool. Take temperature frequently.
The patient may remain in this about twenty
minutes unless he shows signs of collapse. Ho
should then be dried, and the wet sheets and
mackintosh removed. Then wrap hin\ in a
warm blanket and put a hot bottle to the feet
if they are cold. The gi'eatest care must be
taken, and the treatiuent must always be
stopped if the patient shivers or becomes blue.
The ice may be omitted.
Cold or Tepid Sponging. - This is often ordered
to reduce the temperatiire. Remove the night-
gown and protect the bed with a bath-towel
or blanket. Cover the patient with a blanket.
Take a large sponge and sponge the whole body
and limbs with long steady strokes from the top
downwards. Turn the patient gently on his
side for the back to be sponged. The sponging
which is done under the blanket should be
continued for about twenty minutes, when the
temperature should be taken. If the patient
perspires very freelj' afterwards, care must be
taken to avoid a chill. It is a good plan to put
hot bottles to the feet while sponging. Hot
sponging will often reduce the temperature
equally well, and is more comforting to the
patient.
POULTICES AND FOMENTATIONS, &c.
A Linseed Poultice. - Have ready a piece of
flannel the size required, and a basin and broad
knife for mixing. Put the knife into the basin
and pour over boiling water to heat them.
Empty the water and pour in sufficient boiling
water for the poultice. Add enough linseed to
make the poultice of the right consistency, and
'[ beat until it no longer adheres to the basin. If
too wet it will scald, and if too dry it will not be
sufficiently hot. Turn the mixture on to the
flannel and spread quickly \n-ith the knife to
about three-quarters of sn inch in thickness,
■ cover with musUn, and turn the edges of the
flannel over to make the poultice neat. Cover
with cotton wool and bandage if necessary to
keep it in position. Brown paper or muslin may
be used instead of flannel.
A Jacket Poultice. - This is intended to go
right round the patient's chest and back. For
an adult it is better made in two parts, care
being taken that it meets on both sides. It
can be kept in position by a broad binder, which
should be rolled under the patient as he lies on lus
side. The poultice for the back is put on first
and held in place while the patient is gently rolled
on his back ; the other poultice is put on the
chest. The binder is adjiisted and fastened
with safety-pins. Instead of the binder a
" pneumonia jacket " of brown wool made up
Paeumonia Jacket.
on muslin could be used to keep the poultices in
position. Being left open down one side and
on the shoulder it is easily made to fit closely,
and can be fastened up firmly with safety-pins.
This jacket should be changed for a fresh one
when the poultices are left off. A jacket
poultice for a cliild can be made all in one, and
should be quite hght and thin. Poultices should
be changed about everj-- three or four hours.
Although continuous poulticing is not so common
as it used to be, a doctor often orders a poultice
to be put on for an hour night and morning,
and during the rest of the time the patient is
wrapped in a " pneumonia jacket."
A Linseed and Mustard Poultice. - Add one
part of mustard to seven or eight of linseed.
Mix the mustard first in a little cold or tepid
water, and add to the linseed while mixing with
the boiling water.
A Mustard Poultice. - ^Make with one part of
mustard to two of flour. Mix flour and mustard
together to form into a smooth paste with cold
water ; spread on brown paper or old hnen.
Lay a piece of muslin over poultice and hold to
the fire to warm a little before applying. Some-
times a doctor will order only mustard and
water to be used. A plaster made in tliis way
should only bo kept on for a quarter of an hour
or twenty minutes.
Mustard Leaves, which can be bought from
the chemist, are sometimes ordered. Moisten a
little in tepid water before applying. A mustard
leaf must only be left on for about a quarter of
an hoiu-, and, when used for a child, muslin must
566
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
be laid over it before it is applied. Wlien a
mustard leaf or plaster is applied, turn a corner
of it up very soon afterwards to see that it is
not blistering the skin - it is intended to redden
but not to blister. Always rub off any mustard
that may be left sticking to the skin after
a mustard plaster is removed, and rub on
vaseUne or cold cream. Mustard is often applied
over the heart in cases of collapse.
A Charcoal Poultice. - Make in the same way
as a Unseed poultice, adding one part of charcoal
to five parts of linseed. Spread on old Unen
and cover with thin gauze.
Bread Poultice. - Put some stale bread into a
small clean saucepan with hot water and let it
boil for a minute. Strain off the water and
spread on old linen.
Hot Fomentations. - These are used when it
is necessary to apply moist heat to any part of
the body. Place a strong towel over a large
basin. Take a piece of flannel the required size
(it should be large enough to be applied double),
put it on the towel, and pour boiUng water from
the kettle over it. Grasp the ends of the towel
and wring the flannel as dry as possible. If the
flannel is left too wet it may scald. Give it a
quick shake out and lower it gradually on to the
p"irt as hot as can be borne. Cover with jaco-
nette or brown paper and a layer of cotton wool.
If the fomentation has to be put on the chest
or abdomen it can be kept in position with
a broad binder. Fomentations are generally
changed frequently, and must never remain on
when cold. Cotton wool should always be put
on when the fomentation is discontinued.
Turpentine Fomentations. - Make in the same
way as above, pouring over one or two table-
spoonfuls of turpentine before wringing it.
Sometimes the turpentine is sprinkled over the
flannel after it has been wrung out, but this may
cause blistering, and the other method is safer.
Laudanum Fomentations. - Sprinkle some lau-
danum over the hot flannel after it has been
wrung out and just before applying it.
Blisters. - Sometimes a blistering fluid is
ordered and sometimes a plaster. Wash the
skin well with soap and water, and if fluid is
ordered paint it on with a camel's-hair brush and
on the exact spot indicated by the doctor.
Take care that the fluid does not trickle down,
or other blisters may be formed. Cover with a
piece of lint or old Unen and cotton wool, and, if
necessary, bandage. Sometimes the blister forms
quickly (in two or throe hours), but occasionally
it takes twelve hours. If there is no blistering
at the end of twelve hours apply a fomentation
or poultice. When formed the blister must be
clipped with a clean sharp pair of scissors.
These should be boiled before and after use.
Let the fluid escape into a vessel, or into
cotton wool. Dress with ointment spread on
the smooth side of lint. Change the dressing
night and morning. If more blisters form they
must be treated in the same way. A blistering
plaster is sometimes ordered instead of the fluid.
It must be cut the necessary size and covered
with cotton wool. Should it not adhere to the
skin, keep in place with adliesive plaster or a
bandage.
Ice Applications. - These are ordered to allay
inflammation or to arrest h.aemorrhage. Tlio
easiest way to apply ice is in an ice-bag, which
can be bought from a cheniist, or a bullock's
bladder maj' be washed and made to do duty.
Break the ice into small pieces and half fill the
bag, squeezing out the air before inserting the
cork. Flannel or lint should always be placed
between the skin and an ice application, and the
bag should not be allowed to remain on after the
ice has melted. The bag should be examined
frequently to see that there is no leakage.
Notes on Ice. - Ice should be kept wrapped in a
clean piece of flannel and placed in a cullender
put over a basin, so that the water can drain off
as the ice melts.
To break ice pierce it with an ordinary hat-
pin or fine skewer.
When ice is being given to a patient to suck,
tie a clean piece of muslin over a glass or teacup
and put small pieces of ice on the top. Give
them to the patient in a small silver tea-spoon.
Ice is given to stop sickness and when there is
great thirst.
AFTER DEATH
When all is over remove one pillow and
straighten the hmbs. Gently close the eyes,
and, if necessary, put on little pads of wet
wool or linen, which can be removed later.
Place a small pad under the chin to keep the
jaw from flropping. If this does not answer,
a jaw bandage must be applied and allowed to
remain for several hours until the jaw is fixed.
Half-an-hour or an hoiu- should elapse before the
" last offices " are performed. This time can be
occupied in getting ready what is needed, and in
making the room tidy. The washing should be
done quickly, the body being sponged under the
blanket in the same way as if the patient were
li\'ing. All must be done with gentle reverence.
Put on a clean night-dress and white stockings.
Tie the legs at the ankles and knees and fold
the hands over the chest. Tlie hair should be
arranged neatly and to look as natural as
possible. If there is a flock or feather-bed it
should be removed - the mattress only remaining.
If there is a mackintosh it should be washed
and left under the sheet. Roll in a clean bottom
sheet, and put a clean one over the top. Cover
tlie face with a clean soft handkerchief. Remove
all soiled linen from the room ; the medicine
bottles should also be emptied and removed, and
the patient's sponge, nail-brush, tooth-brusli, &c.,
removed and burned. The room should then bo
dusted, a clean cover put on tho dressing-table.
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
567
and a few fresh flowers brought in. The
window should be left open from the top and
the blind may be drawn. If there are childi-en
in the house it is better to lock the door, in case
they should go into the room. Death is an
alarming sight for little ones, and a sight from
which they should be spared if possible.
It is wise afterwards to get the bedding baked^ .
even when the case has not been infectious, or
to have it remade. It should always be done
after cancer, or where there has been a foul
wound, and, of course, after all forms of tuber-
culosis. The sanitary authorities will ofteo
disinfect bedding, &c., free of cost.
"FIRST AID" IN SICKNESS AND ACCIDENTS
It is certainly highly desirable, if not absolutely a matter of duty, that every woman should"
be prepared to render efficient aid in the event of accident or sudden illness. A httle timely
knowledge will enable her, if not to actually alleviate the pain of the sufierer, at least to-
prevent further harm being done until the doctor comes. This knowledge is all the more
essential owing to the fact that the immediate treatment of an injured person, or of some
one taken suddenly ill, has a very important bearing on the after progress of the case.
The information contained in the following paragraphs is intended to act as a guide in
emergencies when a doctor is not immediately available, or in cases of simple ailments when
his aid is not needed.
" FIRST AID " IN SICKNESS AND TREATMENT
OF COMMON AILMENTS
Acidity. - This is a form of indigestion, which
is due to an excessive formation of acid in the
stomach. The symptoms are heartburn and a
rising of wind and of bitter stomach contents
into the mouth. Relief is obtained by taking
a tea-spoonful of bicarbonate of soda in a tumbler
of hot water or 30 drcns tincture of rhubarb
tliree times a day after food, or ^ to 1 tea-
spoonful of tincture of gentian taken in about
1 table -spoonful of water before meals.
Bed-Sores. - These can be prevented to a
large extent by careful nursing (see p. 554), and
in the niirsing profession they are generally re-
garded as a disgrace. There are, however, a
few cases where bed-sores will develop in spite
of all one's efforts to avoid them, and they are
by no means easy to cure. They ought to be
washed with carbolic lotion about 1 in 40, with
boracic lotion or a fairly strong solution of
Condy's Fluid and water. The wound should
then bo covered with a piece of lint spread
with boracic ointment, and this may either be
fixed on with narrow strapping or siniply laid
on the place. Care must be taken to avoid
pressure on the part by the use of a circular
air-cushion, or by turning the patient on the
other side if possible. Very superficial bed-
sores will often heal when well dusted two or
three times a day with equal parts of starch
and zinc powder. No dressing need be applied,
but clean linen should be next the wound.
Blackheads. - This is the name of a skin dis-
ease which is common in youth. The symptoms
are pimples on the face and back which have
black spots in the centre. Recent research
shows " blackheads " to be due to a microbe ;,
the black spots are not dirt as formerly sup-
posed, but are caused by diffused pigment.
The treatment consists in the free use of hot
water and soap, followed by an application of
the following lotion : Take 1 tea- spoonful each of
precipitate of sulphur, tincture of camphor, and
glycerine, and mix with 4 ounces (8 table-
spoonfuls) rose-water.
A sand soap should be used once a week -
the ordinary " Monkey Brand " is excellent for
the purpose. The general health requires atten-
tion, and a doctor should be consulted.
Bilious Attacic is a popular name for migraine..
Migraine is not really dependent on disorder of
the liver. The symptoms are headache, defec-
tive vision, and vomiting of a few hours' duration,
only. The causes are eye-strain combined with,
excessive mental work and lack of exercise. In"
reality it is a disturbed circulation in the brain-
which causes the headache, defective vision, and
vomiting. The treatment should be to go to
bed in the dark and sip some hot tea, and after
the vomiting is over to sleep. If attacks are
frequent, the eyes should be tested and suitable
spectacles worn if any defect is detected, plentj'^
of fresh air, exercise, and plain diet should be
secured, and reading in a bad light or in a
railway train avoided. Nausea, headache, pale
motions, and high-coloured urine are the chief
symptoms. The treatment is a free purge and
spare diet, followed by more exercise and fresh
air. If of frequent occurrence a doctor should
be consulted.
Boils are abscesses in the skin. They contain
a central core formed of a fragment of dead
skin. The cause is debility combined with
some local cause, such as the chafing of a coUeir..
568
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Ichthyol and resorcin ointment applied at a
very early stage will often check the mischief.
Wlien once developed, a cold-water dressing
made of pink boracic lint will help to relieve
the peiin. They are best treated by lancing
and touching the interior with pure carbolic,
and not by the apphcation of a linseed poultice,
as this is apt to induce a crop of boils in the
surrounding area. Tho general health should
also receive attention, especially in regard to
diet, fresh air, and regularity of the bowels.
Bronchitis may be acute or chronic, and
either an independent aSection or due to some
other disease, especially certain fevers. The
disetise consists of inflammation of tho hning
membrane of the bronchi, which are the tubes
into which tho windpipe opens. The treatment
should be confinement to bed in a room tlie
"dr of which is moistened by a steam-kettle and
kept at an even temperature of 60№ in winter
and 65№ in summer. A few drops of terebene
may be added to the water. Special care is
required between two and four in the morning
not to let the temperature of the room fall.
The diet should be light, and plenty of barley
water and lemon drinks allowed. Counter
irritation over the upper part of the chest is at
times useful. Tliis is effected by the applica-
tion of mustard leaves or of turpentine limment.
Medicine is required to make the skin act and
to check the useless cough in the early stage,
and the best for tliis purpose for an adult is
probably ten grains of Dover's Powder at bed-
time. Except in very mild cases the treatment
should be in medical hands from the onset.
Bunion is caused by the prolonged use of
pointed-toed boots. By such boots the big toe
is thrust towards the centre line of the foot and
the base of the toe exposed to pressure unduly.
The frequent repetition of pressure always ex-
cites the growth of the part pressed on, and
the swelling thus caused is known as a bunion.
Hot fomentations may reheve tho pain or the
joint may be painted with iodine if it is not
inflamed. Relief may also be obtained by
placing a pad of cotton wool between the big
and second toe. This takes tho pressvire off
the joint. In severe cases a surgical operation
may be resorted to.
Cold In the Head. - The symptoms are too
famihar to need description. The prevention
of colds may bo effected with some success by
an open-air life, sleeping with the window open,
cold baths in tho mornings, plain diet, and by
suitable clothing and sound boots ; the stuffy
room is tho place in which the cold is caught.
Tho follo^ving will sometimes check a cold in
the early stages : a hot lemon drink made
with the juico of a large lemon, a pint of boiling
water and sugar to taste - drink as hot as
possible - menthol snuff, and camphor pillules
to suck. An attack may also be treated by
inhaling menthol or eucalyptus.
Chilblain is due to the paralysis, by cold, of
the blood-vessels in the affected part. Tho
fingers, toes, ears and more rarely tho tip of
tho nose are most often attacked, and certain
people with a sluggish circulation are more
prone to chilblains than others ; many cliildren
grow out of them. In the first stage of a chil-
blain the part is white and cold ; in the second
stage, congested, hot, red and itcliing. Tlie
treatment should be preventive ; in cold weather
loose woollen gloves should be worn and tight
boots avoided, exercise encouraged, and the
skin kept clean and dry. When the first
sj^mptoms appear rub tho affected part with
the following mixture : one small cupful brown
vinegar, one small cupful turpentine, one small
cupful methylated spirits, one egg - shake all
these together in a bottle and it will be found
an excellent remedy. It is also good for bruises
and pains in the muscles. An apphcation of
tamus communis or ichthyol ointment is also
very good. Relief from itching can be obtaiiied
by soaking the parts in hot water.
Constipation, or Costiveness, is present when
the bowels are not reheved thoroughly once a
day.
The treatment of constipation may bo summed
up in one word - prevention, whereas tho
popular method is to allow violent purging to
alternate with several days of constipation, or
to produce chronic dilatation of the large bowel
by frequent copious enemata.
To have to resort to a pill is in itself a con-
fession of failvire. First, then, acquire a I'egular
habit of obtaining relief for the bowels at the
same time each day. This should always bo
after a meal, because the taking of a meal is a
natural stimulus. The best time is after break-
fast. Regular exorcise must be taken, and fresh
air must bo obtained as much as possible, to
improve the muscular tone. A cold bath in
the morning and massage of the abdomen are
often useful. The diet should contain sufl!icient
laxative materials, such as honey, prunes, whole-
meal bread, and fruits that contain seeds. In
obstinate constipation, however, to continue the
use of much fruit rich in seeds is a mistake,
as it aggravates tho condition. It is when tho
use of these avoids the necessity for medicine
that they do good. When tho above methods
fail, medicine will be required. This medicine
must be as little irritating as possible ; castor
oil, hquorice powder, senna and Apenta water
are all good. Cascara in tabloid form is a little
more irritating, but is good and widely used.
As soon as the bowels are regular the medicine
can bo discontinued, provided that it is re-
sumed if the bowels do not act regularly
without it. All strong aperients must be '
avoided as much eis possible, and left off when
the need for them no longer exists.
Com is an overgrowth of the horny layer of
the skin caused by repeated pressure, such as
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
that due to a tight boot worn daily. Between
the toes, where perspiration is often copious,
the soft variety develops. Soft corns can be
quickly cured by the following treatment:-
Powder well between the toes and put in a
tiny piece of old soft Knen. Starch and zinc or
starch and talc powders can be used. Powder
and Unen should be renewed night and morning.
When the corn is over a joint a felt plaster
will give great relief, or the corn may be de-
stroyed by painting it night and morning with
a saturated solution of saUcylic acid in collodion,
and by protecting it with the plaster. Many
other remedies have been tried for corns, such
as soaking the feet in hot water and cutting
with razors, the use of a file, and the appHca-
tion of galbanum plaster, but the salicylic col-
lodion is preferable.
Cough is a symptom of irritation which is
generally situated in some part of the respira-
tory tract, such as the throat, bronchi or lung
substance, but may be due to irritation of some
distant organ, e.g. the heart and stomach, or
to disturbance of the brain, as in a hysterical
cough. The folly of attempting to apply a
cough cure for all coughs alike is thus apparent.
In the old and young, suppressing a cough with
some soothing sjTup containing opium is very
easy and very dangerous ; a cough should not
be suppressed, but treated by removal of its
cause, and if there be some tenacious secretion
in the bronclii, the secretion requires thinning
by ipecacuanha wine, sweet spirits of nitre, and
sahnes : the cough will then loosen and reUef
be obtained. Half a tea -.poonful of oxymel of
squills in a little water, or paregoric in small
doses will also give rehef. A hot lemon drink
might also be tried. If, on the other hand, the
soiu-ce of irritation is in the throat, the use
every three hours of astringent gargles, such as
alum of a strength of half an ounce to the pint,
followed by a dose of glycerine and lemon juice,
may give rehef. Unless the cough shows signs
of ceasing within a few days, medical advice is
requisite.
Cramp is a painful spasm of the voluntary
muscles most commonly occurring in the calves.
The condition may result from cold, as in
bathing, or be due to irritation of the stomach
or intestines, as in severe diarrhoea or arsenical
poisoning. Cramp in the hand is generally due
to strain of certain muscles overworked in the
course of the daily work, as in writer's cramp
and other forms of trade cramp. For simple
cramp in the calves the best treatment is to
push forward the heel and draw back the toes,
or brisk friction with the hands or with com-
pound camphor liniment also. Other forms
of cramp require medical aid. So-called
" Swimmer's Cramp " is a spasm of the arteries
by which the circulation is seriously obstructed
Ind heart failure induced. The treatment is
rarmth and stimulants. Colic corresponds to
569
cramp, but attacks the involuntary muscles
instead of the voluntary.
Diarrhoea has many causes. These belong to
one or other of the following groups : (1) irrita-
tion of the bowel by its contents being abnormal ;
(2) irritation of the nervous system ; (3) irrita-
tion of the skin by a chill. Group (1) includes
the causes of most importance to us : they are
errors in diet, intestinal worms, hard faecal
lumps due to previous constipation, and certain
poisons. Group (2) includes fright or other pain-
ful emotion. Group (3) explains itself. In
addition to these, diarrhoea may result from
disease of the bowel, e.g. cancer or tuberculosis
in it, or from some general disease, like typhoid
fever or blood-poisoning.
The first thing to do in the treatment of diarrhcea
is to take the temperature, and if this is either
above or below normal, whatever the age of the
sufferer, a doctor is required at once. Or if blood
be present in the motions a doctor is required
also. In cases of diarrhoea with a normal
temperature, treatment for a few hours can be
safely attempted. First consider the cause. Is
there (I) an irritant to cause it, such as those
given above ; or (2) has there been a fright ;
or (3) a chill very recently ? If the answer is
(1), the removal of the irritant is to be attempted ;
nature is already doing so by diarrhcea; we
must aid nature by a suitable purge. This
must not be of an irritjating character, as there
is some irritation already. The safest is castor
oil. If vomiting is present, the best is grey
powder for a claild, or half -grain doses of calomel
given hourly for four to six hours for an adult.
If there is much griping, in the case of adults
it will be safe to add to the castor oil ten minims
of laudanum. The apphcation of fomentations
to the abdomen will also be grateful. An
enema of half a pint of warm oHve oil may
be tried. Collis Brown's Chlorodyne is also very
good for simple diarrhoea.
In later life the diet should be spare, e.g. soda-
water, toast, arrowroot and jelly. It is wise to
put the patient to bed. If diarrhoea is thought
due to cause (2), if the patient be put to bed he
will soon be well. If, on the other hand, cause
(3) is regarded as responsible, the sufferer should
go to bed with hot bottles, hot fomentations
or bran poultices or turpentine stupes to the
abdomen. He should have a spare diet and
some brandy. If in the course of a few hours
improvement in these cases is not occurring, a
doctor is required. If he is not obtainable,
two to four bismuth lozenges should be given
every three hours, and also a starch enema if
necessary.
Ear-ache may bo due to a wisdom tooth, or
to inflammation of the middle or outer ear.
If examination of the teeth shows nothing
wrong, a little warm glycerine may be dropped
in, or one part carbolic to thirty of glycerine.
An eighth part of laudanum could be used with
570
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
warm glycerine. If relief is not soon obtained,
or if though the pain ceases ear discliarge
begins, medical aid is necessary. Chronic dis-
charge from the ears always requires medical
attention. If from one ear only, it may be
duo to a foreign body in the ear that has been
neglected. Ringing in the ears may bo due to
some medicine wliich is acting on the auditory
nerve, e.g. quinine and salicylates. If no medi-
cine is being taken a doctor should be con-
sulted.
Gum-boll. - An abscess between the gum and
tlie jaw due to a decayed tooth. A hot weak
solution of permanganate of potash can be used.
The boil should bo encouraged to burst internally
by holding hot water in the mouth, and should
be lanced as soon as matter has formed.
Hay Fever is an affection of the nose, due to
the irritation of the pollen of grasses. It attacks
certain people only and runs in famihes. The
sjTnptoms resemble a common cold, and asthma
may be present as a complication. The treat-
ment should be the avoidance of the hay -fields
when the grass is ripe, and the use of tonics
and soothing applications to the nose, such as
Friar's balsam, a drachm to the pint of boiling
water ; inliale the steam : or creosote, ten drops
tp the pint of boiling water ; inhale the steam.
Menthol snuff often gives relief, and the nose
might be rubbed with a menthol cone.
Headache may be due to one of various
causes, some simple, others serious. Tablets
containing phenacetin four grains and caffeine
one grain give relief quickly. Eau de Cologne
dabbed on the forehead, rubbing with a menthol
cone, or a mustard leaf applied to the back of
the neck and kept on until the skin is red, are
all good. The patient should rest in a quiet,
dimly-lighted room, and a cup of tea may be
sipped slowly. If headaches are frequent a
doctor should be consulted, as the trouble is
often due to eye-strain, and spectacles may be
needed.
Heart-burn is a symptom due to acidity in the
stomach and not to anything wrong with the
hesui. itself. The treatment is a tea-spoonful of
bicarbonate of soda in half a tumbler of water.
This usually gives immediate relief for the
time. The diet, however, requires regulating,
new bread, farin£iceous and sweet food being
the commonest causes of this disorder.
Hiccough is caused by spasm of the diaphragm,
due generally to irritation of the stomach.
Sipping cold water and also holding the breath
18 long as possible may relieve it. If these
methods fail, a tea-spoonful of bicarbonate of
soda in a half-tumbler of water should be taken.
Obstinate hiccough in the course of a serious
illness requires medical care.
HoarseDess. - This may arise cither from over-
use of the voice or from exposure to cold. A
cold-water compress on the throat at night
sometimes gives relief. Eucalj-ptus, menthol.
and camphor pastilles are good, or the following
simple remedy may be tried : beat up the
white of an egg, add the juice of a lemon and
about a teacupful of water, and sip slowly.
Indigestion or Dyspepsia is readily induced by
unsuitable food, irregular or hiuried meals, im-
perfect mastication or mental worry, over-eating
or over-drinking. Tlio symptoms vary in different
eases, and include loss of appetite, nausea,
vomiting, a feeling of weight sifter eating, and
pain. Pain is felt in front in the lower part
of the chest, or at the back in the left shoulder
blade, and it is usually increased by food.
There is often flatulence, and the food " repeats,"
causing a bitter taste in the mouth, sore throat,
and cough. Tlie mental effects of chronic dys-
pepsia are even worse : the mind is gloomy
and apt to concentrate attention on the bodily
symptoms, thus aggravating the condition. The
treatment should be mainly preventive. Let the
food be simply cooked and well served, varied
and palatable ; let the meals be eaten slowly
and, if possible, amid pleasant companions.
After the chief meal of the day rest amid
pleasant surroundings is highly beneficial ;
breakfast should be a substantial meal, and eaten
slowly, even though it may be necessary to rise
somewhat earlier ; luncheon for most busy people
should be light. Between meals it is un\\iso
to eat or drink, as the stomach requires rest
like every other organ. The teeth must be seen
to, regular exercise in the open air taken, worry
avoided, the bowels kept regular. Tincture of
gentian taken in doses from ^ to 1 tea-spoonful
in about a table-spoonful of water before meals
is a simple but excellent tonic. The sinking
feeling that some people get at about eleven in
the morning can be remedied by taking a cup
of bovril and a biscuit or piece of toast.
No fixed rules can be laid down in regard to
the kind of food to be eaten. " One man's
meat is another man's poison " ; experience is
the best guide. The articles most commonly
found indigestible are pastry, pork, new potatoes,
new bread, sauces made of melted butter, very
hot or very cold dishes or drinks, and malted
liquors. An occasional attack of indigestion
requires a purge, a spare diet for a few days,
and comparative rest. If the attacks of indiges-
tion are frequent, or if there is abdominal pain,
a doctor should be consulted.
Influenza is an infectious fever due to a germ
- the bacillus influenzce. Infection is conveyed
in the air, and also by direct contact between
the sick and the healthy. The incubation
period is two or three days. Tlio sym-ptoms
begin suddenly with a rise of temperature to
103№ or more, prostration, and pain in the back
and head. After the onset the sjmiptoms differ
in different epidemics. In some the chief
symptoms are bronchitis, with running at the
ej'es and nose, in others vomiting and diarrhoea,
and in yet others severe headache, sleeplessness
HOME NURSING AND "' FIRST AID"
571
and delirium, and sometimes sore tliroat. The
diiration of the attack is short unless complica-
tions occur, of which pneumonia is the most
serious. Owing to the severe prostration, con-
valescence takes longer than in most fevers,
and other diseases are apt to begin at this time,
especially consumption. As to the treatment
required : the patient should be isolated and
put to bed. The diet, which should be nourish-
ing and easily digestible, is best given every
two hours by day and every four hours by
night. Hot milk and bovril are good. If
vomiting is severe, peptonised food may be
necessary. Until the temperatiu-e is normal
the patient should be confined to bed. This
point is of more importance than is popularly
thought, many of the serious after-effects of
influenza being due to neglect of this simple
precaution.
In the early stages i to 1 teasp. of ammoniated
tincture of quinine may be taken in a little
water, or ten drops of Karswood creosote on a
handkercliief and inhaled may prevent or help
to cure influenza. A good seaside holiday before
work is resumed is strongly recommended.
Lice lay eggs or nits, that are attached to the
hairs by a ring of cement, which makes them
very difficult to remove. The affection is by
no means confined to the children of the poor.
The best treatment, short of removal of the
hair, is the application of some lotion, which
dissolves the cement, followed by the thorough
use of a fine-toothed comb. In many hospitals
a lotion of vinegar and methylated spirits in
equal parts is used. The hair is thoroughly
soaked in this lotion, and then rags steeped in
it are placed on the hair, and the whole is
enclosed in a mackintosh bathing-cap for the
night. Carbolic lotion (of a strength of 1 in 20)
is also used in the same way, but though effi-
cacious, it has the drawback that the absorption
of some of the carbolic causes the urine to be
green next morning. This, however, is not
serious, for once or twice, in a child otherwise
healthy. Care should be taken to keep the
lotion out of the eyes. " Izal," which is non-
poisonous, is a good substitute for carbolic. If
the odour can h6 tolerated, thoroughly soaking
the hair in petroleum will destroy the lice and
loosen the nits. Sores in the scalp should be
treated with white precipitate ointment. In
bad cases with numerous crusts, after cutting
off the hair, a linseed poultice smeared with
olive oil should be applied. This will remove
the crusts, and white precipitate ointment may
then be applied. Lice on clothing can be de-
stroyed with sulphur fumes.
Lumbago is an affection characterised by
severe pain in the muscles of the loins. Tlie
pain is of sudden onset, and sufficiently severe
' as a rule to confine the sufferer to bed. It is
I recognised by an increase of pain on stooping.
I The cause is usually chill. It is uncertain
whether it is of rheumatic origin or not. Labour-
ing men suffer most from it. A hot soda bath
is beneficial. An appUcation of Chillie paste
gives relief, also an ointment of wintergreen oil
and menthol. This latter is applied to the
affected part and covered with oil silk. A
broad flannel bandage can be worn.
Neuralgia, Uterally pain in a nerve. The
nerves most commonly attacked are those of
the face, the ribs, the loins, and the back of
the thigh. The pain is of a most intense char-
acter ; it comes and goes, often without ap-
parent cause, affecting only one side at a time,
and is not acconapanied by any rise of tem-
perature.
In facial neuralgia, the ear, the eyesight, the
teeth, and, especially the wisdom tooth, require
careful examination, though many cases have
occurred in which tooth after tooth has been
removed by a dentist without reUef having been
obtained. It is therefore wise to consult a
doctor before submitting to the removal of
sound teeth. Exposure to cold and damp often
determine an attack. Neuralgia is also conmion
in the course of certain diseases.
The treatment should be the improvement of
the general health. Regular habits and a course
of tonics, e.g. iron, arsenic, quinine and hypo-
phosphites, all do good in certain cases. A
country hoUday is still better ; the seaside,
however, is not recommended. Tablets - Phena-
cetin 4 grains and caffeine 1 grain, followed
with a cup of hot bovril, will often give rehef.
A full, nourishing diet is needed. Oil of winter -
green and menthol ointment will also relieve
the pain.
Palpitation of the heart is present when the
beating of the heart makes itself felt. The chief
causes are sudden emotion and indigestion,
especially acidity with flatulence. Tlie symp-
toms are either attaclvs of frequent and irreguleu-
action of the heart with a feeling of fluttering
in the chest, or a more forcible action in which
the whole chest may feel shaken. These symp-
toms are accompanied by giddiness, anxietjv
pain in the chest, and other sj'mptoms. They
are apt to come on at night and awake the
sufferer from his first sleep. The treat^nent
during an attack should be a dose of bicarbonate
of soda, one to two salt-spoonfuls taken in some
hot peppermint water, or a tea -spoonful of sal
volatile in half a tumbler of water. Between
the attacks the causes of indigestion should be
avoided, especially heavy and late suppers, tea,
tobacco, rich and sweet food, constipation, &c.
There is no ground for fearing the lieart is
diseased ; it is the stomach that is out of order.
Piles or Hsemorrhoids are varicose veins at the
lower end of the lower bowel. They form small
tumours projecting into the bowel, and may
gradually pass through the anus and appesir on
the exterior. The more important causes of
these are constipation, congestion of the livefj.
572
THE WOI^IAN'S BOOK
and the abuse of aperient medicines, especially
such as contain aloes. If piles aie extruded,
tliey must be washed and replaced by steady
pressure apphed with the aid of a clean rag
smeau-ed with vasehne on one side. When in-
flammation occurs, it is better to rest in bed
and have a hght diet. A dose of hquorico
powder from ^ to 1 tea -spoonful, or 1 tea-spoonful
of confection of sulphur, should be taken.
Hazelino applied on a soft piece of rag should
give rehef, or an ointment of hazeUne, menthol,
and cocaine. Resinal ointment is also very
good.
The bowels should be encouraged to act leist
tiling at night, as then the irritation caused by
the action will pass off during the night.
Sciatica. - This is neuralgia of the sciatic nerve,
and the same treatment as that indicated for
neuralgia may be adopted. Ointment of winter -
green oil and menthol is an excellent remedy,
also Chilhe paste. Sleissage is also good, and
hot fomentations may be apphed to allay the
pain.
Shivering is due to irritation of the nervous
system by many different causes, some of which
are trivial, others serious.
The duration of shivering varies fcom a few
seionds to a couple of hours, and is often suc-
ceeded by sweating and flushing. The tempera-
ture of the body as a whole is usually rising
during a shivering attack, although the patient
feels cold, and it is falling during the flushed
sweating stage, although the patient then feels
hot. In children the more serious causes, which
produce shivering in the adult, often cause con-
VTilsions. The treatment during the shivering
should be hot blankets, hot bottles, hot drinks,
and during the subsequent hot stage, if the
sweating is excessive, the patient may bo rubbed
down with a soft towel. A rigor or shivering
attack is generally the onset of an illness more
or less serious, and the doctor should be sent
for.
Sleeplessness may arise from many causes
that may be summarised thus : - (1) JPain and
other sources of irritation ; (2) poisons in the
blood which irritate the brain ; (3) mental
disturbance by worry, excitement, or strange
surroundings. The treatment is largely a
matter of the detection and removal of the
cause, though certain aids to sleep may often
be adopted with benefit. Tliere are two chief
varieties of sleeplessness, (a) difficulty in going
to sleep at the beginning of the night's rest,
(?) a habit of waking in the small hours, with
difficulty in dropping off to sleep again.
Sufferers from variety (a) should pay atten-
tion to the following points : The hour of re-
tiring should be the same each night. The
mind and body should both he healthily tired,
without being over -fatigued. Hence those en-
gaged in sedentary occupations often sleep
better for a short evening walk each night.
Study pursued till bedtime or an exciting novel
may cause a sleepless night. Heavy suppers or
strong coffee late at night promote insomnia.
Fruit late at night is also said to be a cause.
Soothing apphcations to the skin are often of
great service, e.g. friction with a flesh-brush
or a warm bath. Warmth to the feet may be
required in the form of extra covering or a hot
bottle. The position of the head should be
high in full-blooded people, in heart disease or
asthma, and low in cliildhood and anaemia.
Monotonous mental impressions promote sleep ;
thus tliinking of a famihar rhyme over and
over again, counting, reading a dull book, or,
still better, having it read to one in a mono-
tonous voice, picturing a flock of sheep coming
through a gap in a wall one by one, are famihar
examples that have their use.
The use of alcohol as a nightcap before
retiring to bed is a habit that cannot be recom-
mended, but a cup of hot milk or bo\Til can
be taken in bed the last tiling.
Sufferers from variety of insomnia (6) who
wake in the small hours should take a little
food, preferably warmed, e.g. milk or beef-tea.
A spirit-lamp or special burner in connection
with the gas of the bedroom should be at hand
for the purpose. Any tendency to flatulence or
constipation should receive appropriate treat-
ment. Drugs used to procure sleep are only
safe when medically proscribed.
Sore Throat, Quinsy, Tonsillitis are terms in
popular use to denote many forms of throat
affection. When the throat becomes sore it
may be a symptom of the onset of some fever,
which is most likely to be the case in childhood
Hence a child with a sore throat shoifld be
isolated in a bedroom at the top of the house.
The throat should be examined in a good light,
and if any white patches can be seen, no time
must be lost in summoning the doctor. If no
white patches are present, it will be less neces-
sary to consult a doctor at once, but the appecir-
ance of a rash next day should be looked for
on the chest, as scarlet fever has to be thought
of. Meantime a light diet and plenty of sooth-
ing drinks should be given, and a mild aperient
at night.
In adults with bad teeth sore throats are
very common. These take the form of either
tonsillitis, known as ulcerated throat, or of
quinsy, that is, an abscess in one tonsil. The
tongue becomes coated, swallowing difficult, the
temperature rises to 102№ F., the limbs and
head ache. The attack lasts about a week ;
if an abscess forms it may bvirst, but time and
suffering is saved by having it lanced. The
possibility of the attack being the onset of a
fever has to be borne in mind. The same mode
of isolation and dieting should be employed as
that given above.
A gargle of permanganate of potash and boraeic
should bo used hot - 1 tea-spoonful of boraeic
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
573
powder to 1 cupful of a fairly strong solution of
permanganate of potash. Formamint lozenges
can be sucked, or the throat may be painted with
glycerine and tannin. Eucalyptus, menthol,
and camphor pastilles are also good.
Clergyman's Sore Throat is a chronic inflam-
mation of the throat due ;to over -use of the
voice. An astringent gargle, sueh as alum, five
drachms to the pint, should be used, the voice
rested, and the general health toned up. A cold
compress will often relieve this form of sore
tlaroat.
Stiff Neck is commonly due to a chill. It
should be treated by rubbing in oil of winter -
green or camphor ointment and by wrapping
up the neck in flannel. Hot fomentations will
also give relief.
A Stye. - This is a small abscess on the eyelid.
Apply warm boracic fomentations - take a piece
of soft linen and wring it out of a solution
made of 1 cupful hot water and | tea-sp. boracic
acid. A little boracic ointment may be put on
the lid at night. When the stye is ready to be
opened, pull out an eyelash from the centre.
Take care the discharge does not get into the
eye. Swab with boracic lotion, use a piece of
clean rag and burn it afterwards.
Toothache should as far as possible be pre-
vented by taking care of the teeth. When
present it may be treated in the following way.
A mild aperient should be taken. Menthol
rubbed on outside will often relieve the pain.
When the teeth are aching and there are no
hollow ones, relief may be obtained by rubbing
tinctvire of pyrethri on the gums. All decayed
teeth should receive attention ; if they are too
bad to be stopped, they should be extracted.
Bad teeth often cause various stomach troubles
and rheumatism, and predispose to phthisis.
Varicose Veins are veins which, having been
unequal to bear the pressure of the blood within
them, have become dilated and tortuous in
consequence. The condition is most common
in the legs, especially of tall people who have
much standing. The symptoms produced are
pain, numbness or stiffness in the affected part.
The nutrition of the skin often suffers, and
swelhng, eczema, or ulcer of the leg are then
likely to develop. The treatment should take
the form of some support ; either an elastic
stocking or a bandage may be worn. Crepe
bandages are excellent - they are light and
easily washed. It is important that the pres-
sure these exert should be greatest at the foot
and least at the knee ; hence the stocking
presents an advantage over the bandage. Cold
applications are also good - they act as a tonic.
Warts are outgrowths from the skin, due to a
cause not yet kno^vn. They occur at all ages.
They may occiir in crops or singly. The treat-
ment should be attendance to cleanliness and to
the general health. Thj warts, unless present
on the face or in large numbers, should be
destroyed by some caustic. Glacial acetic acid
painted on every night till the wart is completely
destroyed is an efficient remedy. The skin
around the wart should first be protected with
vaseline, and the acid should then be applied
on the end of a wooden match. A sore is often
left, which soon heals if it is protected from the
air with a little boracic ointment spread on
linen. A saturated solution of salicylic acid in
collodion painted on every night is also a good
remedy. A strong solution of ordinary washing
soda will often soften and remove warts. What-
ever chemical is used, the treatment must be
thorough, or the wart will only be stimulated to
grow. Warts on the face should not be touched
except by medical orders.
" FIRST AID " IN ACCIDENTS AND
EMERGENCIES
Apoplexy or Stroke is caused by a blood-
vessel in the brain breaking and allowing the
blood to escape into, and to destroy, the siu'-
rounding brain substance. It is most common
in middle-aged men who are gouty or intemper-
ate, and in people who suficr from rheumatism
and kidney disorders.
The symptoms are a sudden loss of conscious-
ness from wliich the patient cannot be roused ;
the breathing is noisy ; the limbs may be con-
vulsed down one side and are usually hmp on
one side and stiff on the other.
The treatment during the attack consists in
loosening the clothing round the neck and placing
a pillow under the head. Hot bottles may be
applied to the feet, but they must be well pro-
tected, as burns easily result. By turning the
patient on his side the noisy breathing is often
improved. A pillow placed along the back will
keep him in position. Apply cold water to the
head, and ensure a plentiful supply of fresh air.
No stimulant must be given.
Bruises. - Moisten or bathe the part with
Pond's Extract or arnica lotion.
Shutting Door or Drawer on a Finger. - This
often causes very severe pain. The first treat-
ment should be cold and pressure. Wrap a
cold-water bandage round the finger and keep it
raised, then later on place the finger in water
as hot as can be borne. In severe cases the
doctor should be sent for.
Bites. - (1) Insect Bites should be treated by
the application of dilute ammonia ; feiiling this,
a strong solution of washing-soda or the blue-
bag should be used.
(2) Dog-bites require cauterising, and a doctor
should be seen at the earliest opportunity.
They can afterwards bo dressed with boracic
ointment.
(3) Snake-bites. - A ligature should be firmly
tied around the limb between the bite and the
heart, and close to the former. Tlie wound may
be sucked, though with some risk, especially if
574
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the lips Bxe creicked ; the saliva must be spat
out at once, and the mouth should then be well
rinsed.
The -wound should then be bathed with dilute
ammonia or a fairly strong solution of perman-
ganate of potash, and a clean handkercliief
wrung out of the solution placed over it.
Give stimulant froelj- - brandy, whisky, or sal
volatile. Tlie sooner a doctor can be prociired
the better, as the wound requires caxiterising.
In England the viper is the only poisonous
snake, £md its bite rarely kills. The faintness
it often causes is frequently due not to poison,
but to fright.
Black Eye is due to rupture of the small blood-
vessels of the eyeUds and to the escape of blood
into the surrounding tissues. The escaped blood
undergoes chemical changes which alter its
colour, and in time it is absorbed. The process
may be hastened by appljang hot fomentations.
For the first few hours cold should be appUed
to check the escape of more blood.
Burns and Scalds. - Only when very slight
should these be treated without a doctor. The
depth to which a bum penetrates is of less im-
portance than the area it involves. (1) Treat-
ment when severe. Wrap the child in a blanket
ahd put it to bed at once without removal of
the burnt clothes. Apply hot bottles, wrapped
in flannel, to the feet, and place one on each side
of the child. Give it brandy and hot water, the
right dose of which is a tea-spoonful of brandy
if under two years of age and half a tea-spoonful
more for each year that the child is over two, until
a dose of three tea-spoonfuls has been reached.
The brandy should be given in two table-spoon-
fuls of hot water or hot milk. Any part of the
burnt surface which is exposed to the air should
be at once protected by clean rag or unstarched
musUn, soaked in olive or carron oil, and, failing
this, put it on dry or wrung out of boracic lotion
made by dissolving about one table-spoonful
boracic crystals or powder in one pint boiUng
water. Nothing further should be attempted
till the doctor comes. Plenty of hot water should
be ready, aa it may bo decided to place the child
in a hot bath in order to combat shock and soak
off the burnt clothing. (2) Treatment when
slight. Cover the part with a piece of clean rag
or boracic lint soaked in carbolic, carron, or salad
oil, and cover again with a bandage.
Next day boracic ointment spread on clean
linen should bo appUed. BUsters should never
bo pricked without a doctor's permission, and
when it is done the scissors or needle must bo
boiled before use.
Treatment of Scalds of the Mouth and
Throat. - This accident results from children
drinking from the kettle. The doctor should be
sent for, and no attempt should be made to treat
the burnt mouth until ho comes, but the child
should bo wrapped in a shawl and nvu"sed by
the fire. Have ready plenty of boiling water.
as a steam-kettle may be needed. A little olive
oil may be given.
Choking. - In the milder forms of choking the
best treatment, if any is required, is a smart
slap between the shoulders. Fish-bones some-
times become fixed in the throat. They are
best dislodged by copious draughts of water or
by eating some bread and butter.
In the more serious cases of choking when a
piece of food presses against the wall of the wind-
pipe and causes siiifocation, medical aid must at
once be summoned, while some one near should
pass the forefinger to the back of the throat and
try to dislodge the obstacle. The finger must be
passed to the side of the throat, as on no account
must the piece of food be forced downwards. A
small child can be held by his feet - head down-
wards and shaken and slapped on the back.
This will sometimes dislodge the obstacle.
Concussion of the Brain. - This is generally the
result of a blow or a fall on the heeA. Wlien
shght the effects will be very transitory - a
feeling of dizziness or a loss of consciousness for
a moment or two. In more severe cases tlie
patient will lie in a completely unconscious state,
similar to a faint. Any tight clothing should b<3
removed or loosened ; the feet should be slightly
raised and cool apphcations should be made to
the head. Perfect rest and quiet must be
assured, and the doctor ought to be summoned.
No stimulants must be given, but some warm
tea as soon as the patient can swallow will do
good. Sometimes a person will recover con-
sciousness quickly, and will walk away appar-
ently quite well, but soon afterwards will become
increasingly drowsy. This is a most serious
symptom and points to cerebral haemorrhage.
The doctor must be sent for at once.
Dislocation is the displacement of one of the
bones that forms a joint. Pain, deformity and
impaired movement result and continue as a
rule until the dislocation is reduced. The joints
most liable to dislocation are the jaw, finger and
shoulder. The jaw is often dislocated in yawn-
ing too widely, when the sufferer finds he cannot
close his mouth. Dislocation generally occurs
on one side only. The treatment, after protect-
ing the operator's thumbs by wrapping them up
well in handkerchiefs, is to press on the back
teeth of each side firmly with the thumbs whilst
the fingers are placed outside the mouth, and
below the jaw, and the chin pressed well upwards
by them. The finger, when dislocated, may bo
treated by a steady pull so made as to tend to
straighten the finger.
N.B. - Dislocation of the thimab, shoulder and
other joints should not be treated beyond placing
the affected limb in as comfortable a position
as possible until the doctor comes. If the pain
is severe, warm fomentations may be applied.
Drowning may cause death after two minutes'
submersion, but life is often saved by perse-
vering treatment of the right kind. The Royal
HOME NURSING AND '" FIRST AID"
575
Humane Society have issued most valuable in-
structions which may be summed up by saying,
first, clear the air passages ; secondly, perform
artificial respiration ; thirdly, restore the warmth
of the body wliilst medical aid, blankets and
dry clothes are sent for.
The air passages are best cleared by placing
the patient on his face with a pad under the chest
and applying pressure to the back over the lower
ribs for three or four seconds. Then turn him
on Ms side and apply pressure again to the ribs,
and repeat these methods alternately until
the water and froth no longer issue from the
mouth.
The patient should then be turned on his back,
a rolled-up coat placed under his shoulders, and
the tongue drawn well forward. The braces
or stays are then loosened and artificial respira-
tion begun. The method usually adopted is
that of Sylvester -
The operator stands at the head of his patient, grasps
both arms just below the elbow and draws them up above
the head, when he pulls on them, as this often stimulates
inspiration. The arms are kept in this position while one,
two are counted. Tlie arms are next grasped just below
the elbow, and then carried down against the sides of the
chest and firmly pressed together. The chest is thus com-
pressed and the air expelled. One, two is again counted
and air then drawn into the lungs, by drawing the arms
up over the head as before.
It may be necessary to continue this method
without interruption for two hoiirs. Meanwhile,
if assistance can be obtained, the circulation
should be stimulated by briskly rubbing the legs.
As soon as natural breathing begins it may be
discontinued, and treatment then directed to
promoting warmth. Hot blankets, dry clothes,
and hot bottles are required ; hot coffee or brandy
are given as soon as the patient can swallow.
Later on injui-ies due to the patient having
struck against piles or rocks may require atten-
tion.
Epilepsy is a disorder characterised by fits in
which the sufferer is unconscious and may also
be convulsed. In minor epilepsy there is a lapse
of consciousness for a few minutes, in which un-
conscious acts may be performed, but in which
the sufferer does not usually fall. In major
epilepsy the unconsciousness is accompanied by
convulsions and by falling, hence the name,
falling-sickness.
A fit may bo divided into the onset, the rigid
stage, the convulsive stage, and the stage of
recovery. At the onset there is in many C8u=ies
a warning sensation, but in other cases the
patient is struck down unconscious without the
least warning.
The treatment during the fit is to prevent the
convulsion injuring the patient. There is no
fear at this stage of his injuring other people.
The clothing should be loosened, the head, arms
and legs pressed firmly against the ground, and
a cork, tooth-brush handle, or other gag placed
between the teeth to guard the tongue. When
the convulsions have ceased, if the patient seems
inclined to sleep let him do so. No attempt
must be made to give anything by the mouth.
Fainting is due to a deficient blood supply to
the brain, usually caused by a temporary weak-
ness of the heart's action. The sjTnptoms are
too well known to need description. The dura-
tion of the attack is usually short, but it may
last longer, and in rare cases ends in death. The
treatment for a faint should be loosening the
clothing, giving fresh air, putting the head down
very low (no pillow) and the feet up, and apply-
ing smelling salts and wet handkerchiefs or eau
de Cologne to the face. Brandy is rarely neces-
sary, but thirty drops of sal volatile in a little
water is a viseful stimulant.
The practice of bending forward the head
between the knees is one that is useful in pre-
venting fainting, but it should not be resorted
to after fainting has taken place.
If the faint is prolonged, medical advice should
at once be sent for ; meantime mustard to the
heart and warmth to the feet should be apphed.
Foreign Body in the Ear. - Should a bead or
other such body be introduced, the head should
be turned on one side with the affected ear down-
wards and a smart tap given to the head on
the opposite side. This treatment may shake it
out, but will probably fail. Syringing should bo
tried next, and if this fails nothing more must be
done till the doctor comes, as any attempt to
remove it by a hair-pin or other instrument will
almost certainly drive it in against the drum and
do much harm. When a seed hke a pea has been
introduced, syringing must not be attempted
because it makes the pea swell and great pain is
thus caused. When an insect has entered the
ear it cannot of course go further in than the
membrane of the drum, but by kicking against
this great pain is caused. As insects breathe air
they are readily drowned, and the ear therefore
should be filled with warm glycerine and lauda-
num, and wool placed in the outlet. An hour
later syringing should be practised to wash the
dead insect out, and if this fails a doctor is
required.
Foreign Body in the Eye. - This is best dealt
with by closing both eyes and rubbing the
normal one ; a flow of tears is thus induced, which
often dislodges the foreign body. If this fails,
the lower lid should be drawn down, and if the
body can be seen, it should bo dislodged with the
tip of a clean handkerchief or clean camel's-hair
brush. Eversion of the upper lid, that is, turning
it up to expose the inner surface, requires practice
and is best not attempted. Splinters of iron,
grit, &c., embedded in the cornea, should not
bo touched till a doctor is obtained, but a drop
of castor oil should bo applied to the inside of
the lower eyelid, and the eye should be bandaged
up to prevent the sufferer doing damage by
rubbing it. Lime in the eyo is best treated by
576
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
dropping in castor oil or weak vinegar and water.
Water alone is bad treatment.
Foreign Body in the Nose.- Blow the nose with
the nostril on the unaffected side firmly closed.
If this fails, sneezing may be induced by tho
application of snuff to the nostril of the un-
affected side. Or, warm water containing a
tea-spoonful of salt to the pint may be injected
from a s>Tinge into tho nostril of the unaffected
side, whilst tho mouth is held open. If this
simple treatment is not successful, the child
should at once be taken to a doctor, as serious
miscliief might arise if not properly attended to.
An instrument must on no account be used.
Fractures may be simple or compound. In
the former the bone only is broken ; in the latter
case the skin is broken as well, so that gerrns
can reach tho broken bone. The first aim in
a simple fracture must be to prevent further
damage from being done by keeping tho part
that is broken in as natural a position as possible
until the doctor comes. If the patient must be
moved an effort should be made to get tho broken
bone into position and then to secure it either
with bandages or with both splints and bandages.
These should be put on over the clothing if
possible, as then no other padding will be required.
Jf it is found necessary to remove the clothing,
this must not be pulled, but rather cut off, if it
cannot be done otherwise without causing pain.
When the fracture is compound the wound must
have the first attention (see Wounds).
A splint may be very quickly improvised in a
case of emergency - a piece of wood, a ruler,
a broom-handle, a golf club, a piece of card-
board, or even folded newspapers or brown paper
will make excellent splints ; in fact, any firm
substance wliich will keep the broken ends of
the bone together in a fixed position. When a
splint is not applied over the clothing it must
always be padded.
A bandage must never be applied over the
fracture itself, unless the skin is broken at this
spot.
Frost-Bite. - Even though tho part appears
lifelc-ss, recovery can often occur provided tho
temperature bo raised very gradually. Tlio
patient must not enter a warm room, and the
affected part should be rubbed, preferably with
snow. Wlien tho part comes to life, inflamma-
tion may bo expected, which may be treated
with fomentations or by wrapping up tho in-
flamed organ in wool. The avoidance of alcohol
or hot drinks in tlie early stage is also important.
A Frozen Person. - There must bo no sudden
application of heat. To bring tlio patient into a
warm room in a benumbed condition or to place
him in a warm bath is to cause death. Place
him in a cold room, remove the clothing, wrap
tho body in a blanket, and with gentle friction
of ice-cold water, snow or tincture of camphor,
endeavour to re-establish circulation. This
ahould bo carried on some time, and some
nourisliment and stimulant, such as cold beef-
tea, milk, ordinary tea, weak wino and water,
given if tho patient can swsJlow. Wlien life
returns put him in a cold bod in a cold room ;
as improvement shows itself heat may be
established very gradually.
Haemorrhage or Loss of Blood may be from
an artery, a vein, or a capillary. In arteries tho
blood escapes from a wound in a bright scarlet
intermittent stream ; in veins it escapes in a
dark continuous stream ; in capillaries as a
steady oozing. Owing to these facts it is widely
taught that arterial haemorrhage should bo
arrested by compression of tho wounded eirtory
at a spot nearer tho heart, whilst venous hae-
morrhage should be treated by pressure over
the vein further from the heart than the woxmd ;
but so many amateur attempts at this method
have ended in failure that it is safer to recom-
mend direct pressure on the wound by the thumb
and subsequently by a pad and bandage. A
firm pad can always be improvised by placing
a smooth pebble or cork in a clean handkerchief
and folding it up. The Umb should always be
raised and all tight clothing loosened. If pres-
sure on the wound itself fails to arrest haemor-
rhage, additional pressure may bo applied -
nearer to the heart than the wound for arterial
haemorrhage, and further from tho heart for
venous haemorrhage.
When the wound is too extensive to apply
pressure to it, and arterial haemorrhage is present,
a tourniquet improvised as follows should be
applied higher up the limb. A pad is placed
over tho main artery and secured in position by
a handkerchief folded into a scarf and fimly
tied. A stick is then inserted beneath the hand-
kerchief on the opposite side to the pad, or it
may be included in the knot of the bandage.
By t\visting the stick round and round the
bandage is steadily tightened until haemorrhajjO
is arrested, when tho stick must be prevented
from unwinding bj' a bandage at each end.
A tourniquet or tight bandage must not bo
kept on longer than is necessary ; the pressure
should be gradually slackened as tho bleeding
ceases.
Slight pressure usually suffices to stop capil-
laring haemorrhage. A pad of lint or clean linen
soaked in hazeline or Friar's balsam can be
applied, or, failing these, ice or a cold-water com-
press. Water as hot as can bo borne will often
check haemorrhage.
If there are symptoms of collapse, keep tho
patient on his back with tho head low - keep
tlie limbs raised, and apply warmth. Give
stimulants in very small quantities.
Bleeding may occur from a site to which
pressure cannot bo applied, e.g. tl^o nose, lungs,
stomach, &c. Tlio treatment for these must bci
considered separately.
Nose Bleeding. - Tho patient should sit in a
cliair with tho arms raised and tho head well
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
577
bent back. The collar should be loosened, and
cold may be applied to the back of the neck
and cold water to the nose. In severe cases a
doctor wnll be required.
Blood-Spitting. - The treatment is complete
rest in bed, talking in a whisper only, a Uttle
ice to suck, and a sponge-bag containing ice may
be placed over the chest. Coughing should be
checked as much as possible. No stimulants
should be given.
Vomiting Blood may be due to blood that has
come from the nose or the lungs and been
swallowed, but if not, it is due to bleeding from the
stomach and may be very severe. The patient
should then be kept lying still, a little ice, but
very little, should be given him to suck, and
no medicine given by the mouth, as anything
which may cause vomiting will increase the
bleeding.
Stomach; Rectum, &c. - In cases of bleeding
from the stomach, rectum, bladder, or womb,
the patient should be kept lying down until the
doctor arrives.
A Fit of Hysterics. - This is a nervous disease
caused by excitement and weakness. It some-
times resembles an attack of epilepsy, but there
is never complete loss of consciousness, and it
generally ends in the patient beginning to laugh
or cry. The case must be dealt with firmly and
gently, but there should be no show of sympathy.
A dash of cold water on the face will generally
put an end to the attack. The general health
should have attention.
Pins are often swallowed owing to the foolish
habit of holding ihem in the mouth. A bowl
of gruel should be taken, and an emetic avoided.
In the vast majority of cases no harm results.
Poisoning. - Poisons are divisible into two main
groups : (1) those in which an emetic is on no
account to be given ; (2) those in wMch an emetic
should be given as soon as possible. Group (1)
includes the corrosive poisons which, from their
caustic action, eat into the stomach wall and
may perforate it. In all other cases of poison-
ing in which the poison has been swallowed
an emetic should be given, unless the patient
is unconscious.
How to Act in a Case of Poisoning. - (1) Send
at once for a doctor. (2) Preserve any poison
bottle, medicine, food or vomit just as it is till
the doctor arrives, otherwiso the most essential
evidence will be destroyed. (3) If the nature
of the poison is known, it is possible to apply
treatment specially adapted to it. (4) If there
is no clue to the nature of the poison, follow
these directions : -
(o) Note if the lips or clothing are burnt.
If they are, the poison is a corrosive one, and an
emetic must not be given. When the poison
is known to be acetic acid, nitric acid, oxalic
acid, or sulphuric acid, half an ovmce of chalk,
whitening, or wall plaster may be given mixed
in half a pint of water. In a great emer-
gency the plaster may be scraped from the
ceiling.
(b) If the patient is unconscious, an emetic
must not be given. The patient should be
aroused either by speaking to him, shaking hino,
or flicking him with a wet towel, but not by
holding smelling salts to his nose, as these may
do harm to the air passages before the patient is
aroused by them. If he is unconscious and the
breathingis weak, artificial respiration (see p. 575)
should be resorted to at once.
(c) Unless a corrosive poison has been taken,
or the patient is unconscious, an emetic should be
administered promptly, even though the exact
nature of the poison is unknown. The best
emetic is a table-spoonful of mustard in a tiunbler
of tepid water, though copious draughts of tepid
water or salt and water (two table-spoonfuls to
half a pint tepid water) may be used if necessary.
The action of the emetic should be aided by the
introduction of the fingers or a feather well down
into the throat.
(d) In all cases of poisoning, if the patient can
swallow, it is good treatment to give milk, or
beaten-up eggs, or strong tea or coffee, salad or
cod-liver oil. This may be done both before
and after an emetic has acted. These remedies
act as antidotes to many common poisons, and
some of them also salve the irritated lining of
the stomach.
(e) Lastly, treat the shock, which many
poisons cause, with warmth and stimulants, and
do not let the patient go to sleep until the doctor
has arrived.
Ribs Broken. - This injury may result from a
direct blow or a crush. Tlie symptoms caused
are shallow breathing, with pain on drawing a
deep breath. Rarely the broken rib punctures
the lung ; bright red frothy blood is then coughed
up. The treatment should be to tighten the
clotliing so as to give the ribs support. This
may be effected in a man by pinning up the back
of the waistcoat. The arm of the affected side
should then be placed in a sling and the patient
sent to the doctor. If he is coughing up blood,
the treatment must be different ; pressure will
then aggravate the injury. Tlie patient should
then he down till the doctor comes, or, if
necessary, be carried to him on a stretcher or
coster's barrow.
Ring, Fixed. - To remove a ring which is firmly
fixed on the finger, the latter must be made
smaller by expelling the blood it contains. Tliis
may be done first by shaking the hand above
the head as high as can be reached, and then
by bandaging the finger as tightly as possible
from the nail downwards. By repeating this
manoeuvre the ring can often be slipped off
with a screw-like motion. If not, some stout
packing tliread should be wound around the
finger from the nail downwards until the ring
is reached ; one end of the thread is then to
be passed under the ring and brought out
2o
678
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
through it. The thread around the 6nger is
now unwound by using the end that is through
the ring ; by tliis action the ring should slip
steadily towards the naU. Or the finger may
be put into cold water and weU soaped. If
these methods fail, the file is the only resort.
Splinters.- If on the surface, they may be
removed with a needle; if embedded m the
skin, apply a hot fomentation for a few hours,
then remoVe the splinter with a needle, if a pair
of splinter forceps are not obtamable.
Sprains are the ill effects presented by tendons
and Ugaments which have undergone a stram.
There is gencraUv severe pain m the part
accompanied by swelhng. The sprained part
should be kept raised, and hot fomentations
should be appUed to reUeve the pain. A bad
sprain is often worse than a broken bone, and
a doctor should always be caUed in, or the after
effects may be serious.
Strangulation.- In all cases of strangulation
from whatever cause death is usually very rapid.
Promptitude of action is the great point. Im-
mediately a person is found hanging he should
be cut down, one hand severing the cord while
the other supports the body and prevents it
being injured by the fall. Then any rope or
handkerchief round the neck must be removed,
' and if the body is warm, steps should be taken to
restore animation. Loosen any articles of dress
and at once go on with Sylvester's method (see
p. 575). Should there be assistance at hand, cold
water may be dashed on the chest and the body
briskly dried.
Suffocation by Gas.- Remove the sufferer at
once from the deadly atmosphere into pure air
and commence artificial respiration (see p. 575).
Friction and warmth to the body should also be
appUed, and all tight clothing removed.
To rescue a person from a room filled with
poisonous gas involves some difficulty, and should
only bo done after taking a deep respiration
and covering the mouth and nose with a cloth
soaked in vinegar and water. A rush should
then be made for the window and a pane broken
and the face put to the aperture, and then
a second window broken if possible to create
a draught. /i\ tt f
Sunstroke exists in two forms: (1) Ђieat
Exhaustion; (2) Thermic Fever. Heat exhaus-
tion may result from exposure to heat of any
kind. The symptoms are collapse, pallor,
sweating, rapid feeble pulse, hurried breathing,
and subnormal temperature. Death may occur
from heart failure, though complete recovery
is the rule. Tlie treaitrwnt should be plenty of
fresh air, and if there is much depression a stimu-
lant may be given sparingly.
Thermic fever rarely occurs except from ex-
posure to the direct rays of the sun. The
symptoms are loss of consciousness, which may
become very deep. This loss of consciousness
may be the first symptom, the victim falling as
though struck down, but usually dizziness and
nausea occur for a short time previously. The
case may soon terminate in death, or recovery
may occur, the onset of which is indicated by a
return of consciousness and a fall of the tempera-
ture. Tlie treatment should be the loosening of
all tight clothing and the apphcation of cold to
the whole body. This may be applied by spong-
ing every few minutes with well water, or
better by the application of ice. A sponge-
bag full of ice should be placed against the
head. A wet pack is sometimes beneficial, or
a mustard leaf applied to the nape of the
Wounds.^-It must be remembered that the
first application to a wound will materially affect
its future progress. The amateur must there-
fore attend to the following rules :-(!) Arrest
bleeding ; (2) cleanse the wound ; (3) bring the
cut edges together when this can be done with
safety ; (4) provide for the escape of discharges ;
(5) keep the injured part at rest.
The first of these rules is discussed under
Haemorrhage (see p. 576). The cleansing men-
tioned in the second rule is necessary, because
germs are the cliief cause of wounds not
healing. ■, , ^
Wash the hands with soap and hot water
before dressing a wound, then use boiled water
cooled, or water to which a little Condy's fluid
or a few borio ci*ystal8 have been added
along with clean linen or boracic lint for
the dressings.
With respect to the third rule, the question
whether to bring the cut edges together or not
is often difficult to answer. When in doubt it
is better to leave the wound open, as in some
wounds closing up is the worst treatment pos-
sible. In clean cuts, however, the edges should
be brought together, preferably by the stitches
of the surgeon, but failing a surgeon, resort
must be made to strapping. A dry dressing
just vnde enough to cover the cut should
bo applied first, and over these strips of
strapping should be applied in pairs, each
pair making a cross, the centre of which is
over the wound. The lowest corner of the
wound should not be covered by strapping,
so as to enable any discharge that may forni to
escape. Over the strapping a pad of wool is
placed, which is secured by a bandage, and the
dressing is then complete.
When it is decided not to bring the edges of
the wound together, a dry dressing should be
applied, unless there is a large raw surface, as in
the case of many burns, when boracic or eucalyp-
tus ointment spread on Unt or clean linen is
preferable. The dry dressing should be im-
pregnated with antiseptics; boric lint or cyanide
gauze are two of the best preparations, but when
these are not obtainable, clean linen rag may be
used and the antiseptic provided by dusting the
wound with boric powder. A pad of stenhsed
HOME NURSING AND "FIRST AID"
579
absorbent wool should be placed over the dry
dressing, and the whole enclosed with a bandage.
Rest must then be secured for the injured part
by the tise of splints, slings, or by confinement
to bed.
The After-Treatment. - Clean cuts should be
left alone after the first dressing until the wound
has healed. Wounds, the edges of wMch have
not been brought together, should be dressed
daily ; the wound should be syringed or bathed
v/ith a mild antiseptic at blood heat, and then
bandaged up as before. The bandage and wool,
if not soiled, may be used again, but the dressing
in contact with the wound should be renewed
daily. The great point to be borne in mind in
the dressing of wounds is the necessity for
absolute cleanliness.
THE fa:viily medicine chest
SUGGESTED CONTENTS
Boracic Powder or Crystals.
Menthol Cone.
Old linen that has been
boiled.
Pink lint and Cotton Wool
(absorbent).
Glycerine.
Tincture of Iodine.
Friar's Balsam.
Sal Volatile.
Boracic Ointment.
Linseed Meal.
Permanganate of Potash
Crystals.
Court Plaster.
Carbonate of Soda.
Essence of Peppermint.
Clinical Thermometer.
Medicine and Minim Glass.
Clean pair of Scissors- kept
wrapped up.
Rubber adhesive Plaster
(1 spool i in. wide).
Jeyes' Fluid or Sanitas.
Carbolic Oil.
PERIODS OF QUARANTINE
The quarantine period is the time dui-ing which one exposed
to infection must be isolated before he can be said to be free of
all risk of having the disease. For convenience of reference we
append a table of these times : -
Chicken-pox .
Diphtheria .
Influenza , .
Measles
German Jleasles
Miimp. . .
Small-pox
Scarlet Fever
Typhoid or Enteric
Fever ....
Whooping Cough .
Age most likely
to catch it.
Childhood
2-15 years
AU ages
Childhood
Youth
ChUdhood
All ages.
5-10 years
Young adults
Childhood
Incubation
Period.
12-19 days
1-7 days, usii-
ally 2
2-6 days
10-14 days
11-18 days
14-23 days
12 days
1-7 days, usu-
ally 3
5-21 days
5-18 days
Quarantine
Period.
20 days
HOME GARDENING
GAKPKKXXO is not only an interesting hobby, but it is also a health-giving occupation which many
women could take up ^"ith ^^^^^^^g^; .^. " • "ardemng, or to have a great deal of spare time in
It is not necessary to undergo a traimng in ff ^^^'"S' ""^^ fairly well-directed effort to grow
order to make a smaU garden attracuve^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^"^,,, but in
plants, and the obviously beneficial ^^^^j^^ №\j;^^"'^№ho make gardening a hobby, are in the liighest
Lpro^-ing the health, spiri^ and ch^^^^^^^ ^, ^ Lburban garden in all its
Ss^Snr^efX consi^^^^^^^^ the culture of flowers ha. been dealt with m a simple
Sa^er wSch should prove useful, especially to the amateur.
A SUBURBAN GARDEN
The most common cause of failure in suburban
gardening is the cramming in of many lands of
pLt.. ^respective of their habit and their
suitabihty for the conditions under which they
have to grow. ,
Another mistake made by those who have only
a smaU garden of, say. from tliree to six square
rods is of trying to grow flowers, fjuit. and
vegetables together. In view of the fact that
constant supplies of vegetables are brought to
the door of suburbanists daily, it is seldom wise
to give up the precious space of a very small
suburban garden to them. There is certain y
great value in vegetables, but they should only
be grown where the conditions are favourable.
So far as fruit is concerned, it is equally open
to doubt whether it is worth the while of subur-
banists %vith a very small garden to attempt it.
The most that should be done is to try a few
cordon trees on the party fence. Larger trees
will take up more room than can bo spared.
On the whole it is better to restrict a sma 1
suburban garden to ornamental plants, with
which may bo included grass.
Vegetables and fruits may, however, be
planted in larger gardens, especially if they arc
big enough to bo divided into two or more
sections. . r i.i,"
Planning the Garden.- Tlicro is room for the
display of a considerable amount of taste and
ingenuity in laying out a small garden. The
beginner should not go along the line of least
resistance, which generally leads to a border
round the sides, a grass plot in the middle, and
nothing more ; in most cases a little more can
Suppose the garden to be a rectangle, a little
longer than it is broad, at the back of a row of
terrace houses with a low waU or fence on both
sides. A piece of painted or creosoted wooden
trellis, about two feet high, might first be
attached to the wall to secure greater height for
creeping plants and also greater privacy. A
foot-deep band of galvanised \vire attached to
the trellis, but not so securely as to be quite firm,
will serve to discourage the invasion of cats.
The trelUs and the wire together will cost very
' A^ walk at one side only of the garden ^U
suffice, and it will of course follow the Une of the
border If six inches of brick-bats and clinkers
are first rammed in and then surfaced with two
inches of gravel, the walk will do admirably.
It should be a little higher in the centre tht-n at
the sides, so that rain will run off. The border
ought to be four feet ^.-ide and the path three
feet, then the width can be completed with a
grass plot and another four feet border. ^
Borders, path, and grass plots need not ^
carried uninterruptedly to the other end of the
garden, but might be stopped a few feet away m
order to form a garden " cosy corner. This
might be screened by a trellis five or six fee o
high, with a narrow border at its foot m winch
to put plants for covering the trellis, ihis
trellis must not go completely across the garden;
an opening the ^ddth of the path must be left
in order to make an entrance, and here an arch
should be set. ,
In one angle of this enclosure a summer-house
might bo set. or a pretty rustic bench with
shrubs, or one or two selected trees such as
Laburnum or Lilac, and this will develop into a
shady and secluded spot, delightful on the even,
ing of hot days. It adds greatly to the attrac-
tion of a suburban home to have some suc^
quiet place as this. A few seeds of Mignonette
and Night-scented Stock should be sprinkled m
patches near the summer-house, as the perfume
\vi\\ be highly agreeable on summer days and
"' If^there is to be a greenhouse it might stand
580
HOME GARDENING
581
at the opposite side of the enclosiu'e to the
summer-house, or a small rockery might be
formed.
If a Rose is particularly wanted for the arch,
the glossy -leaved Dorothy Perkins is to be
recommended. Whether it succeeds or not
depends on the purity of the air. A charming
arch plant that nearly always succeeds is the
small, white -flowered Clematis Montana. Care
should be taken to deepen the soil and to manure
it well for whatever climber is planted. A
thorough drenching of water or liquid manure
twice a week in hot weather will be a great help
to the plant.
As regards shrubs for the summer-house
corner, the Aucuba is one of the most suitable,
as it will grow under conditions that wovdd be
unfavourable to most shrubs.
Grass Plots. - If a grass plot is to be formed,
the simplest way is to get an estimate for laying
turfs from a local florist. The total cost, in-
cluding labour, ought not to exceed £1 per square
rod ; less for a quantity. Or, the grass plot may
be sown from seed. Two things are absolutely
essential to success : first, a level fine bed of soil ;
the second, pure seed of a specially prepared
mixture. The ground should be dug over in
winter and the soil thrown up in lumps and
allowed to remain thus for a few weeks ; then
in favoxirable weather, towards the end of March
or beginning of April, it will crimible down
beautifully into fine particles, and can be raked
perfectly smooth and level. It should be made
firm during the levelling process, or it may sink
in parts later on and give an uneven sward.
The seed should be bought from one of the
large seedsmen, and the soil and district should
be described when the order is given. One
pound of seed per square rod will be sufficient.
Choose a still day in April for sowing, or Sep-
tember is another suitable month. Rake the
soil lightly over after sowing, and finish with
rolhng if possible. The soil should neither be
too dry nor saturated with moisture. Birds
must be thought of and circumvented. Cover-
ing with fish netting, or stringing black threads
a few inches apart on short sticks, will suffice
for protection. Whatever is used can be re-
moved when the grass is an inch high all over.
Then roll the plot. This will crush down the
young grass, but will do no harm, and by
pressing the soil round the roots it will encom-age
the emission of new fibres. When the grass is
from three to four inches high, the tops should be
clipped off, preferably with shears or a scythe,
as this will encourage a further break of grass
from the base. Tlie lawn is now secure, and
regular rolling and mowing will steadily improve
it. Rolling is best done after rain, and is most
effective in the spring, when the ground is com-
paratively soft. Mowing is best done when the
grass is dry or nearly so. In the case of yoimg
grass the cutter should be set rather high, so
that the grass is not sheared off quite low down.
This might bare the roots, and they would suffer
in hot weather. It is not a bad plan to let the
grass fall and he on j'oung lawns ; it causes a
brown appearance as the cut grass dies, but, on
the other hand, the roots are mulched and
shaded.
A neat, straight edge is a nice finish to a grass
plot, and care should be taken to prevent the
encroachment of the grass on the path and
border.
Herbaceous Plants for Suburban Gardens. - The
selection of plants for the borders will give food
for much consideration. In these days hardy
herbaceous plants hold the sway in large gardens,
and there is no reason why suburban amateurs
should not grow a few representatives of this
large, popular, and beautiful class. A border
four feet wide will not, of course, give the scope
for fine colour effects which are procurable by a
judicious use of fine perennials. There is not
room for large groups. But handsome clumps
of some good plants can be grown if the soil is
well dug and manured. Let us summarise a
few of the best. Double and single PjTethrums
tlirive, and there are few plants more beautifixl.
They are suitable for small borders, because
their habit is neat and compact. Tlie foliage
is graceful without being far-spreading. The
flowers are thrown up well on long stems. They
are useful for cutting on this account. On the
whole, we certainly commend Pyrethrums to
suburban amateurs. Columbines are delightful
plants, the habit being neat and the flowers
elegant, as well as charming in colour. Snap-
dragons are admirable in every way. They
grow freely almost anj^where, bloom profusely,
and are brilliant in colour. If the ordinary
kinds are considered too large, recourse may be
had to the smaller sections, which are equally
as beautiful as the larger. Pentstemons are
very graceful, and the flowers are as charming
as those of any hardy plant in existence. These
splendid plants eire growing in favour every
year, and suburbanists should make a point of
becoining acquainted with them. Many of the
IMichaelmas Daisies are too large for small
borders, but others are not. Clirysanthemums
will do yeoman's service. They are compact
in habit, and produce charming flowers.
Montbretias are graceful and free-blooming
plants, with slender spikes of brilliant flowers
rising from a mass of narrow leaves. Tlie
perennials already named, if supplemented by a
few bulbs and clumps of Annuals, would suffice
for the majority of small suburban borders, and
they are but a few of the many splendid plants
available.
Annuals for Suburban Gardens. - Such popular
hardy Annuals as Clarkias, Godetias, Linums
(Flax), Nasturtiums, Sweet Peeis, Nemophilas,
Saponarias, Silenes, Poppies, Candytufts, Con-
volvuluses, Eschscholtzias, Bartonia, Corn-
582
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
flower. Sweet Sultans, Portulacas, Leptosiphons,
Linarias, Love-in-a-mist, Larlcspurs, Mignon-
ette, Phacelia, Virginian Stocks, and Night-
scented Stock ; also snch beautiful half-hardy
kinds as Ast^^rs, Ten-week Stocks, Mangolds,
Phlox Drummondii, Nemesias, Scabiouses, Sal-
piglossis, and Zinnias are excellent for suburban
gardens. (For Hints on Culture, &c., see
P- 584.)
Bulbs for Suburban Gardens.- Bulbs play a
prominent part among spring flowers ; it is
difficult to say what we should do without
Daffodils, Tulips, and Hyacinths. Tliese beau-
tiful bulbs come into a bedding scheme which
consists of two annual plantings- one in autumn,
the other in late spring. Tlie beds are cleared
of the summer flowers in October, and planted
with bulbs, which make way in their turn m
May for a fresh lot of siunmer plants. Amateurs
may put clumps of bulbs in their mixed borders
for the sake of a spring display, which wiU be at
its best when the herbaceous plants are only
just starting to grow. And they may also plant
bulbs in beds, interspersed, if desu-ed, with
Arabises, Aubrietias, and Forget-me-nots, all
of which can be cleared away in May to make
.room for half-hardy Annuals or orthodox bedding
plants, such as Begonias, Carnations, Geramums,
Pansies, &c. For the culture of bulbs, as well
as hints on choice of varieties, see p. 587.
Roses for Suburban Gardens.- Roses cannot be
recommended unreservedly as plants for subur-
ban gardens. Their beauty of form, their
glorious colours, their fragrance render these
magnificent flowers supreme. Unfortunately
the plants do not care for town life. Impure
air has a marked effect upon them. The leaves
get coated with smuts, and the buds refuse to
open. The plants may flower fairly well once
or twice, but they steadily dechno. \Vhether
success can be achieved in suburban gardens or
not depends more on the atmosphere than on
anything else.
Something turns upon culture, however. If
the soil is well prepared, and strong plants of
vigorous sorts are put in, the prospects of success
are brighter than in a poor soil and with weak
varieties. , .
It is wise to make the most of the limited
energies of the plants by restricting them to a
few shoots and flowers. Half-a-dozen branches
will be better than twice that ntimber. The
clusters of flower -buds may bo thinned down to
one in each case, except in certain bunch-flowered
varieties.
Suburbanists who are in doubt as to whether
Roses might be expected to succeed in their
gardens should try a few vigorous varieties first
of all, and if the results are satisfactory they
could increase the collection.
Carnations in Suburban Gardens.- The Carna-
tion is a genuine town crarden plant. Some of
the most famous of Carnation growers have
cultivated their favourites in or near a town.
The fact is the Carnation has none of that
susceptibility to the influences of impure air
wliich makes the Rose so tantalising. Many
amateur gardeners love to take up one particular
flower and concentrate attention upon it. They
find that they get more satisfaction from this
than from spreading their energies over a large
number of kinds. To those of this class who
garden near towns the Carnation may be warmly
recommended. The collection may be grown
either in the garden or under glass, or partly
under both conditions. (For Cultural Hints,
see p. 591.)
Auriculas in Suburban Gardens.- As in the case
of the Carnation, so in that of the Auricula, some
of the most successful growers and exhibitors
have been town or submban gardeners.
It is a tiny plant, retiring and modest. But
it has a charm, a winsomeness, which appeal
powerfully to lovers of refined flowers. It is o
dainty little floral gem, pretty in form, pleasing
in colour, and dehghtful in perfume.
LARGER GARDENS
We have spoken hitherto of quite small sub-
urban gardens at the back of terrace houses.
More may, of course, be done in the larger
gardens belonging to semi-detached and wholly
detached villas further out. When these are
situated in pvirely residential districts, even Roses
can bo grown successfully.
There may be a somewhat more elaborate
plan, and in some cases fruit and vegetables may
be introduced. Flowers, however, should be
given the pride of the place. Vegetables are
excellent in their way, but they do not add one
iota of the pleasure and interest to a home that
flowers are capable of yielding.
Herbaceous Borders in larger Gardens.- One
advantage which the large garden ^vill enjoy
over its smaller neighbour is the capacity for
providing a good border. This will permit of
introducing large clumps of such plants as
Paeonies, Delphiniums, Hollyhocks, Ox-eye
Daisies, Phloxes, and other richly coloured
plants. The border will not only bo beautiful
and interesting as a whole ; it will yield large and
constant suppUes of flowers for carrying into the
house. .
Shrubs.- The subxirbanist with a fair amount
of room can also add to the interest of his garden
by planting more shrubs. He can add flowering
shrubs, as many of the best will thrive in gardens
where the air is fairiy pure. A great deal depends
on the preparation of the soil, which should be
trenched and manured so as to get a depth ol
about two feet. The majority of the flowering
shrubs bloom in Spring, but some excellent
kinds can be got which will blossom at other
seasons ; indeed it is possible to have beauty
almost tlu-oughout the year, as a few actually
HOME GARDENING
583
flower in winter. We must not expect much
bloom in winter, but there are a few kinds which
will flower in that quarter.
One of these is the Glastonbvuy Thorn, which
flowers in late autumn or Christmas - there is
also the Japanese Quince, which flowers generally
in late winter. The winter Jasmine, too, is a
pronounced winter bloomer. Daphine Mezereum
is a deUghtful winter and early spring shrub. It
has small pinkish, very sweet flowers, and does
not take up much room. It does well in Subur-
ban Gardens. Some of the Magnolias are early
bloomers, and among them the beautiful species
SteUata ranks very high.
Forsythia suspensa is a very early bloomer,
and in mild winters is out before the spring
quarter begins. It produces long, slender
flowers and grows almost anywhere. It is one
of the best of early -flowering shrubs.
The flowering Currant is another valuable
plant to the amateur ; it grows freely and
blooms profusely. The Rhododendron is, of
course, the queen of spring flowering shrubs, but
it must have space, suitable surroundings, and
is scarcely suitable for an enclosed garden.
One of the most beautiful of the Spiraeas,
namely, arguta, is an early bloomer, and should
Pruning Shrubs after flowering, removing bloomed wood.
A shows the bloomed wood to be removed ; B, B show
young shoots that must not be cut off.
find a place in all collections of good flowering
slirubs.
The majority of flowering shrubs are at their
best in spring, but there are, too, several good
shrubs that are distinctly summer blooming.
The Spirseas are among the finest of summer
flowering shrubs ; some of the species are true
shrubs. Of such are Douglasii, which has rose-
coloured flowers ; Bullata, which has pink flowers;
Artchisoni with pale yellow flowers.
We do not get much autumn bloom among
the shrubs, but we get abundance of berries,
and they are bright and rheerial. We get them
on the Aucubas, on the Dogwoods, on the Spinder
Tree, on the Pemettya, on the Snowberry and
the Japanese Rose.
Soil for Shrubs. - If any shrub-lover is import-
ing soil in order to improve the natural medium
of his garden, he cannot do better than arrange
that the greater part of it be decayed turi.
Practically everything will grow in it. Some
leaf mould is helpful, but it need not consist of
more than a quarter. In the absence of leaf
mould, road sweepings could be added to the
loam with advantage.
Pruning Shrubs. - Those that flower on the
wood made the previous year should be pruned
after flowering, the wood that has bloomed
Pruning Shrubs in spring lor those that flower on current
year's growths. A, A, A shoots to be cut out ; B, B, B
shoots to be retained ; C, C, C show how to disbud to
avoid undue crowding of young wood.
being cut away to make room for new. But
those which flower on the young wood of the
current year may be pruned in spring.
Trees. - The suburbanist who has a fairly
large garden may perhaps Uke to have a selection
of ornamental trees not too large in growth.
The Almonds are useful because of their early
bloom. Tlie double scarlet Tliorn, the Scotch
Laburnum, various Hollies, the Lilac, the
Mountain Ash with its sprays of bright berries,
and Prunus Pissardii (for its purple leaves) are
all worth considering.
Tliese trees never attain to very large dimen-
sions ; at the same time they have beauty of
flower, berry, or foUage to recommend them, and
are suited to owners of small gardens.
Lovers of the class of trees called Conifers
(because they bear cones) may hke to include
a few, and thoy are certainly very useful.
Some are deciduous, others evergreen. A well-
known example of the former class is the Spruce,
and of the latter the Cypress.
One of the most useful of the Conifers for a
small garden is Cupressas Lawsoniana, a grace-
584
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
fill, hardy, and inexpensive, if somewhat sombre
tree, of which there are many varieties differing
in habit from the tj-pe. The Douglas Fir,
WelUngtonia giganU^a, the Maidenhair Tree and
the Cedeir are a few popular Conifers.
ANNUALS
That large class of plants wliich botanists
distinguish as " Annuals " comprises some of
the most popular of garden flowers. It em-
braces the Sweet Pea, China Aster, the fragrant
Ten-week Stock, the briUiant Poppy, the per-
fumed ilignonette, the dear little blue Corn-
flower, the bright Candytuft, the Chrysanthemvun,
the Convohnilus, the Night-scented Stock, &c.
Annuals may be dealt with in three groups : -
hardy, half-hardy, and tender. A hardy Annual
is one that passes the whole of its career in the
open air ; a half-hardy Annual, one that is
raised under glass and afterwards planted out ;
a tender Annual, one that Uves out its life under
glass.
Hardy and half-hardy Annuals may be used
for bulb beds, mixed borders and banks. Per-
haps they prove the most useful as clumps near
the fronts of mixed borders, but a few selected
Vinds may be utilised to make up beds of them-
selves ; and if the hints on culture which are
given here are followed they wUl probably vie
with any other beds in the garden.
There is another use to which many beautiful
AnnuaLs can be put, and that is to cover porches,
arches, and fences, or to droop from window-
boxes. The Canary Creeper, the half-climbing
forms of Tropaeolum, and the Convolvuluses
are all popular.
Having indicated some of the uses to which
Armuals may be put, we may now pause to
consider a few important cultural points, and
then give selections of the best kinds and
varieties.
Cultural Points. - Dealing first with the soil,
we may say that it presents a very simple
problem. Annuals do not require the deep,
rich soil which Roses and herbaceous plants
demand ; indeed, it is a positive disadvantage
in the case of many, notably Nasturtiums,
because it causes growth so luxuriant that the
plants flower poorly. There are few classes of
garden plants for which we would prefer a light
shallow soil to a heavy, deep one, but the
Annuals certainly constitute one. Wo sec, then,
that as far as Annuals are concerned we may
easily be too' kind. We may waste labour and
manure. Wo may make the plants grow too
well - or, rather, too strongly. There is no need
whatever for digging more than a spado deep,
and the amount of manure used should not
exceed the very modest quantity of one barrow-
load per square rod.
An ounce of bone flour or sulphate of potash
to the square yard, spread on whenever the
ground is dug, but preferably in February or
^larch, will, however, be beneficial, leading to the
production of abundance of flowers and to the
eiu-iclunont of their colours.
It is an excellent plan to rough-dig the ground
in winter, leaving the surface quite lumpy, and
then to spread on some wood ashes and soot.
Towards the end of March, or in the early part
of April, the surface may be raked down, and the
soil will probably fall at once into a fine tilth,
admirably suited for the small seeds.
If the Annuals are to be grown in beds by
themselves, consideration should be devoted to
finisliing the soil off neatly. Have the sides
raised above the surrounding grass and clear of
the verge, so that a neat edge can be kept with
the shears. A border of some dwarf plant, such
as Thrift, or Pinks, or an Annual like the Sweet
Alyssum will be an appropriate finish to the
bed.
Arrangement in Beds. - Coming to the arrange-
ment of the plants in beds, they could either bo
put in lines or clumps. Tlie latter look more
graceful and informal. If, however, the grower
Annuals- Sowing Seeds. A shows how to sow seeds In
drills ; B shows how to sow them in patches or clumps ;
and C shows the seeds scattered thinly on the prepared
soil.
prefers to sow in lines, it will be found con-
venient to get a board about ten inches wide,
and use it for getting straight rows. A drill can
be formed by turning the rake on end, teeth
outward, along the edge of the plank, then the
latter can be simply turned over and another
drill drawn. This is quicker than constantly
resetting a garden line.
With respect to clumps, the grower can do
one of two things - form a shallow saucer b}' a
quick rotary motion with the palm of his hand,
or make a circle by pressing the rim of an
inverted flower-pot into the soil. The clumps
must not be made too close together. The rings
HOME GARDENING
385
or patches should be at the least a foot apart
for small things, and two feet for large ones.
There is room for the exercise of considerable
taste in associating the different plants in a bod
of mixed Annuals. The colours may be con-
trasted, for one thing. Then, diiferent height
and habit may be considered. It is not wise to
put tall tilings in the centre and arrange the
others in regular tiers to the edge, as that may
look stiff. Certainly we would not so far depart
from this - the common - plan as to have short
things in the centre and tall ones at the edges ;
but a tall, loose-growing plant may be used here
and there to impart Ughtness to a group of short,
compact plants.
The seed should be sown very thinly. If
small, it may be covered half an inch deep ; if
large, an inch at least.
Annual? must be regarded as real objects of
interest from the first, and regularly attended to,
and not treated as though they differed from
every other class of plant and required no atten-
tion after sowing. If a period is chosen for
sowing when the weather is mild and genial,
from the end of March to mid-April, and the soil
is moist and crumbly, seedUngs should be visible
in about ten days. If they do not appear witliin
a fortnight, the grower should want to know the
reason why. Sometimes slugs attack the seeds,
so that the plants never show through the ground
at all, and often in such cases suspicion fastens
on the seedsman.
Other Important Points. - If the seed has been
sown thinly, the task r>f thinning the seedhngs
will not be a very irksome one. It may be done
twice - the first time when they are about an inch
liigh, and the second when they begin to crowd
each other after being thinned to a couple of
inches apart. Few people are bold enough in
thinning seedlings. Very few Annuals should be
nearer than nine inches to each other when they
come into flower.
Hoeing among the plants is splendid practice.
It cleans and aerates the soil, and promotes
rapid growth. Staldng will not be required in
the majority of cases. If needed at aU one
bamboo or other stake attached to the main stem
will generally suffice.
If there is one practice which conduces more
than another to continuous flowering, it is the
picking off of faded flowers before they have
time to ripen seed. The logical conclusion from
this, of course, is that if flowers must bo regularly
cut it 's just as well to take them while they arc
fresh.
Watering will also be advantageous in dry
weather. Watering entails considerable time
and labour ; besides being a source of expense,
the necessity of it should be reduced as much as
possible. Hoeing and mulching with a few
inches of cocoa-nut fibre refuse, decayed manure,
or lawn mowings, both tond to reduce the neces-
sity for watering.
The following are a few of the most useful
and valuable of the Annuals : -
Candytufts. - These are particularly useful,
because they come early into bloom, and will
grow almost anywhere. A good strain of
carmine is one of the brightest and most useful
Annuals we have. They grow to about twelve
inches in height and can be had in crimson,
purple, white, &c.
Chrysanthemums. - The varieties of annual
Chrysanthemum called Morning Star and Even-
ing Star, which are different shades of yellow,
are very desirable. The amateur should also
grow Chrysanthemum Burridgeanmn, wluch will
give some darker shades.
Clarkias. - The elegans rosea variety ought to
be included whatever else is left out.
It is a very graceful plant, one of the earUest
to come into bloom, and one of the last to go
out. It grows from eighteen to twenty-four
inches in height and can be had in rose, purple,
&c.
The Eschscholtzias are very bright, and will
grow anywhere. Cahfornica and Mandarin are
orange. Rose Cardinal rose. These plants have
very finely-cut fohage. Height about twelve
inches.
Godetias. - These should be regarded as indis-
pensable. They are not very early bloomers,
but they last a long time. They will stand
drought better than most plants if they £ire
raised sturdily. Height frora twelve to eighteen
inches in crimson, rose, white, &c.
Love-in-a-Mist. - There is a splendid veiriety
of this, called Miss Gertrude Jekyll, wliich ought
to be got. It is worth trouble to procure, being
double the size of the old one, and a lovely shade
of pale blue. The plant blooms incessantlj' for
three or four months, and does not mind dry
soil. Height from twelve to eighteen inches.
The Rose Mallows are splendid plants for dry
soils, blooming profusely and long where most
other plants would fade quickly. Height about
thirty inches - crimson in colour.
Mignonette is a general favourite. There are
various kinds, red, white, and yellow, and it
grows to about nine inches in height.
Nasturtiums. - There is now a large number
of these. The Tom Thumb veirieties, such as
Empress of India, are very vivid. The variegated
leaf variety is interesting and attractive. It
rambles freely, and is well worth growing.
Sunhght is a yellow of medium height, but self-
supporting. The Ivy-leaved Nasturtiums are
also good things.
Night-scented Stock. - This should be sown in
patches near the windows of the house, so that
tho delicious odour wliich it exhales may enter
the windows. It is a somewhat straggly grower,
and the colom- is not bright, but it is very
persistent, lasting quite into the autumn. The
colour is lilac, and it grows to about twelve inches
in height.
586
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Shirley Poppies. - There are beautiful singles
that one can buy in mixture. They are brilliant
but ephemeral, and some of tlie giant doubles,
which can be had in scarlet, wliite, striped, pink,
and otlier colours, should bo grown. They are
splendid plants in bods, for theii* leaves are hand-
some, and when the liiige flowers are thrown up
well above the foliage on tall, strong stems,
there are few garden plants to excel them.
Height twelve to thirty inches.
The Sweet Pea. - The greatest of all Annuals
is the Sweet Pea. It is not surprising that the
plant should enjoy great favour ; it is a vigorous
grower, is hardy, thrives on most soils, remains
long in beauty, has beautiful flowers with a
wide range of colours, exhahng a delicious
perfume. It will yield far more blossoms than
any other plant which can be grown in the open
gardens of this country.
The seeds should be sewn in shallow trenches
or drills. The depth will vary shghtly according
to the texttu-e of the soil - the stronger it is the
shallower the cutting sliould be. In any case
the trenches must not exceed four inches and
never be less than two inches. Another im-
portant point is the distance at which the seed
should be placed. It is exceedingly diflficult
to lay down a hard-and-fast rule, but if the
distance varies from one to two inches it is almost
impossible that the grower can go far astray.
The plants can be grown either in single or
double rows, but the former method is to be
preferred.
It is imperative that the plants be given early
support. Sticks should bo placed to the seedlings
before they attain the height of four inches, and
to these preliminary sticks the young plants
should be carefully attached with bass. Before
the plants reach the top of the twiggy sticks
the permanent ones must be put in position,
or ordinary large meshed, galvanised wire, or a
specially-made wire framework.
If the soil is good it is not likely that the
plants will require any water until they are
showing buds ; in any event it is wise to defer
watering until it becomes imperative. When
watering is done it should be such a soaking
that the ground will be moistened to a depth of
about three feet. This done, the grower should
not make the slightest attempt to water a second
time until the soil is again quite dry. When the
plants are in full bud and bloom, waterings with
liquid manure will be essential.
HALF HARDY AND TENDER ANNUALS
These are raised in a frame or greenhouse in
early spring, and planted in the garden when
the weather is warm enough - say, in May or the
early part of June. If the amateur has no glass
the seedlings must either be bought or sowr;
out of doors, but not before the beginning of
May.
Those to be started under glass are best sown
in boxes, and if a special compost can be prepared
it should consist of equal parts of loam and leaf
mould, with an eightli of coarse sand. It should
be pressed Grmly into boxes three or four inches
deep, which can be bought from a grocer or oil
and colour merchant, as a rule, at a very cheap
rate. Sow in drills about half an inch deep,
with the soil in a moist but not sodden state,
and cover the boxes with squares of glass if
possible, but, with or without glass, with sheets
of newspaper, which may be removed when
germination has taken place.
The remarks as to soil and planting made
about hardy Annuals apply to the half-hardy.
A deep, rich soil is not necessary for the majority.
Soot, wood ashes, bone flour, superphosphate,
and sulphate of potash impart fertility as well as
yard mamu-e. Of course, the ground should
be well worked and pulverised. The other
general remarks made under hardy Annuals
apply.
Among the best half-hardy Annuals are the
following : -
Asters. - These rank very high, and ^e well
worth cultivating. There are several tj'pes, and
all can be bought in mixtures or in assortments
of from six to twelve separate colours. The
Dwarf Bouquet, Pseony flowered. Quilled, Vic-
toria, Comet and Ostrich Plume will be found
particularly valuable for garden decoration,
owing to their graceful habit, and large, fleecy,
richly-coloured flowers.
Marigolds are old favourites, and Nemesia
Strumosa Suttoni a new one.
The Phloxes rival Verbenas, and the Salpi-
glossis lias a grace of habit and a diversity of
coloration of its own. Its large bell-shaped
flowers are quaintly beautiful.
Stocks are quite indispensable. They can be
bought either in mixed colours or in assortments
of several distinct hues. The Dwarf Gerr.an is
shorter than the Giant Perfection, but the latter
produces the finest spikes of bloom.
Zinnias are very brilliant. Tliey like a little
bottom heat to start in. Although slow beginners
without warmth, they grow rapidly when once
in swing, and are splendid garden plants.
Tobacco Flowers. - These are sometimes bien-
nial or perennial in duration, but are generally
grown as Annuals, and the same remarks apply
to Petunias. Both plants should be grown,
the former for perfume and evening bloom,
the latter for their large, richly -coloured
flowers.
The Tender Annuals, which are used for green-
house decoration in pots, are not numerous.
The Balsam, of which the Camellia flowered
is one of the best types, is one of the most
familiar examples. Petunias are much in de-
mand for pot culture. Asters and Mignonette
are both suitable for winter blooming, also
the Rhodanthos and Ten-wook Stock.
HOME GARDENING
587
BULBS
In present-day gardening bulbs hold a position
of their own among the flowers of spring, and if it
were not for their charming colours and sweet
fragrance our gardens would lose much of their
chai'm. Much has been done by cultivation
witliin recent years, and some of the lovely forms
which are now the commonplaces of the garden
were undreamed of fifty years ago.
Very little need be said about the functions of
the bulb and the leaves. In practice the main
things to know or remember are : - (1) That the
green leaves are the food manufactories of the
plant, and that if they are removed before their
work is completed, there will be so much less
food in the storehouse, which is the bulb. There
are bulb-growers who think they may cut off
the leaves directly, or very soon after, the flower
has faded. It may be done once with compara-
tive impunity, the only result being rather
weaker growth the next season and a poorer
flower, but the treatment must not be repeated.
(2) That the bulb is the cupboard of the plant
where the food is kept. After a bulb has been a
certain time out of the ground it will begin to
show signs of growth, and the ends of leaves will
appear from the top. This means that the plant
has had to draw on its food supplies, and, if
the supplies are not replenished, it wiU become
weaker and weaker and ultimately die. This
is the reason it is important to put the bulb in
the ground in good time, so that it can make
roots before it makes a:y top growth.
Another point to be remembered is that light
seems to unduly stimulate the growth of the
leaves ; therefore a bulb when it is potted should
be first of all placed under a covering of ashes
or fibre, or sand outside, or else in a dark, well-
ventilated cellar.
Cultivation. - Like any other plant, the bulb
responds to care and attention, so we can all
do something to improve it. But there wiU be
exceptions, for there are particular varieties
which in practice fail to respond to our efforts,
and we have the sad experience of seeing them
gradually fade and die away. Those which fail
are not the same in every garden. Tlaese likes
and dishkes of certain kinds every one must find
out for herself, just as in matters of food we can
never tell what will agree or what will disagree
with us until we try it.
Bulbs may be utilised in many different ways ;
they may be planted in a border of mixed planta
or in a bed by themselves ; they may be grown in
grass or under trees in an orchard, and also in
window-boxes and pots, or in bowls and glasses
in the house.
Bulbs in Borders and Special Beds. - When bulbs
are planted in clumps in mixed bordei-s, all tliat
can be done is to dig out as large a space as
is possible, to the depth of a foot or eighteen
inches, and mix a little bone meal in the soil below
the bulbs. If the soil is stiff and clayey, some
lighter soil or something that wall help to keep
it porous must be added, as no bulb hkes stag-
nant moisture about its roots. If, however, it
is very hght and the drainage good, a layer of
old cow manure placed at six inches below the
base of the bulb is advantageous, and Rainit in
addition to the bone meal should be added to
the soil.
When the planting is done in special beds
these should be from three to four feet wide
and as long as convenient, and in such a position
that they will be protected from cold winds.
The ground should be " double dug," and lime
and bone meal added. The bulbs in these beds
must be planted in rows about nine or ten inches
apart to allow a hoe to be worked between them
from time to time during their growth. In
January, if the weather is very severe, place a
covering of some kind over the beds. Heather
is good. Do not remove it until the hardest
frosts are past and there is an inch or two of
green leaves above the gi-ound.
Keep the surface of the beds clean and hoe
them frequently. Tlie hoe should be run be-
tween the beds about once a month, and do not
leave oS until the hoe will spoil ihe blooms.
Bulbs in Grass. - ^Tliere are two ways of
planting : -
(1) By flajnng large, irregular patches, and
then loosening and enriching the soil with bone
meal, or, when it is poor, with a very httle super-
phosphate as well, then placing the bulbs in
this prepared ground so that they will hold them-
selves up and not tumble over when the soil is
replaced.
(2) By using such a tool as Barr's Special
Bulb -Planter, which is most effective. First
make a hole with the planter and put a Little
Planting Bulbs in Grass. A, bulbs ; B, opening through
turf. Bulbs six incites apart.
good, light, prepared soil at the bottom of the
hole for the bulb to root in, then place tho bulb
itself on this, and put back the little circular
bit of turf that is released from the cup (of the
planter) when a second hole is made. After the
first shower of rain it ^vill be impossible to tell
that the ground has been disturbed. It is
always better to plant one sort by itself. A
mass of almost any flower is effective. Try to
avoid stiffness in planting. The more irregular
588
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the individual patches are the better, and so
arrange that a few stray bulbs are placed singly
here and there near the outside of the clumps.
They must not bo planted too far apsirt or the
effect \\nll look thin.
Time for Planting. - All bulbs should be planted
before the end of October if the best results are
to be got from them. Of course, they may be
planted in November and even earlyin December,
but they will not be so strong or so large as if
they were put in the ground earlier. Those that
are wanted for forcing and early blooming may
be planted as soon as the montla of August.
Planting in grass should not be attempted until
the ground is softened by autumn rains. Atten-
tion to this detail is very necessary.
Method of Planting. - A safe rule to go by is to
plant large bulbs six inches deep and small ones
four inches, but in hght soil these depths may
be exceeded slightly.
A question which has reference to planting
is the length of time that the bulbs ought to be
Depth at which to Plant different Bulbs. A, Snowdrops,
Crocuses, or Scillas ; B Jonquils, Tulips, Ac. ; C,
Hyacinths ; D, Narcissi, Gladiola, &c. ; E, Liliums.
allowed to remain without lifting. Except in
the case of poor " doers," it is best to leave them
alone for two years without disturbance ; the
blooms are finer and earlier the second season.
Lifting and Storing. - April is the flowering
month, and in May when tho blooms are over
the leaves should be tied up, but do not cut them
off until they turn yellow. As soon as the leaves
assume a yellow hue and begin to lie flat upon
tho ground, the time has come to lift these bulbs
which require remo\'ing from the ground. Too
late lifting must be avoided - far bftt little too soon. After tho bulbs are hftcd they
must be thinly spread out in a cool, airy place,
either in trays or on plates, \mtil they are thor-
oughly dry. If the getting-up season has been
wet they must bo looked at every second or
third day and turned. When quite dry they
may be stored in trays or open bags until they
are wanted to be planted. In the case of valu-
able varieties the bulb is sometimes split up
when it is dried, and the offsets are planted
separately. It is best only to take off those
offsets which come off naturally by themselves,
or wliich can be separated by a very slight out-
ward pressure or pulling away.
Offsets should be planted as soon as possible ;
the smaller they are the greater is the necessity.
Except in the case of expensive bulbs, the grow-
ing of small offsets is scarcely worth the wliile
of any amatetu-. At any rate, offsots should be
planted by themselves in beds in the kitchen
garden or in some vacant space in August.
If by any chance the cultivator is late in taking
up Ills bulb and they have begun to make now
roots, they must be planted at once without
being dried off. In the case of offsets this is
of even more importance than for the parent
bulb. The best adAaee, therefore, with regard to
offsets is to plant early.
Tlie following are a few of the most suitable
bulbs for growing out of doors : -
Crocuses. - ^Very hardy, very cheerful, very
easy to manage is the little Crocus. There are
yellow, purple, wliite and striped Crocuses. Tlie
golden yellow is particularly bright, and it has
comparatively large flowers. They are charm-
ing in Unes to beds and borders, also in grass
and under trees. They aro so cheap that they
can be planted in any quantities.
Daffodils and Narcissi. - These are easily-grown
plants. They will thrive in most soils, but
luxuriate in a deep, cool, substantial medium.
They may be used in beds, borders, woodland
and gi-ass with equal effect. The variety of
these bulbs is so enormous that the task of mak-
ing a selection from mere names is a very difficult
one ; the amateur should consult a good bulb-
dealer before making his choice. Some of the
cheapest are among the best.
Two Uttlc practical details are worth noting.
It must be remembered that all the beautiful
red cups and red edges burn very soon if exposed
to hot sunsliine, and if such varieties are used
they should be put in position where thoy will
have a little shade. Secondly, attention must
be given to the time tho different kinds bloom,
either to ensure a sequence of bloom or to have
a big simultaneous display, as may be desired.
Glory of the Snow. - This ranks with the
smaller bulbs, such as Scillas and Snowdrops.
Tliere are several species and varieties, all blue,
blue and white, or white. The first of these is
the true Glory of tho Snow. It has delightful
blue flowers with a white centre, grows to about
the same height as the Snowdrop, and is in
bloom at the same time. It is a hardy, attrac-
tive, inexpensive, and accommodating little
bulb, and may be represented in gardens where
such little gems are loved.
Hyacinths are loved by everybody. In pots,
in glasses, in tho soil of tho open gardens, the
Hyacinth is equally at home. Any cool, moist
soil will grow Hyacintlis well. Water is the Ufo-
HOME GARDENING
589
blood of these plants ; they must never be
stinted for moisture, whether indoors or out.
It is wasteful to dot odd bulbs about the garden,
because they produce no particular effect.
Clumps should be formed, and if they are thought
to be a little stiff they may be associated with
Chalice Daffodils, which are generally in bloom
at the same time.
Scillas are very modest flowers, but they
have their uses. Sibirica, the blue Squill, is a
pretty and serviceable little plant. It blooms,
together with its white variety, in February.
Bifolia is a charming httle plant which flowers
in March. There are several varieties of it,
including a wliite (alba) and a pink (Pink
Beauty). The wild " Bluebell," or Wood
Hyacinth, is a Scilla, and its specific scientific
name is; variously given as nutans and festalis.
Tliere are pink and white varieties of this also.
It is an April bloomer. The Spanish Squill
{Scilla hispanica), blue, and its varieties bloom
in March. There are several different shades
of blue, likewise red, rose, and white.
Snowflakes. - These are great favourites and
they are easy to grow. The summer Snowflake
grows about eighteen inches high, and has large
wliite flowers. The spiing Snowflake flowers a
few weeks earUer, and also has white flowers
tipped with green. Another variety has yellow
tipped flowers.
Tulips. - ^Hardy, brilliant, easy to grow, the
Tulip is one of otu" most valuable bulbs. It will
give us a \dvid blaze of colour if we grow some
of the bright varieties j'a masses, but it will also
give us many delicate and dainty little pictm-es
if we choose the softer-hued sorts and grow them
in selected positions.
By making a suitable selection we can have
Tulip blooms for fully three months.
We might classify the sections as follows for
outdoor flowering : March blootn. Van Thols ;
April, Early Dutch ; May, Darwin and Cottage.
The Van Thols are pretty enough, and make
nice little patches of colour among SciUas, but
they only grow a few inches high, and have small
flowers. The Darwin and Cottage sections have
flower stems two feet long, surmounted by
immense blooms.
BULBS IN BOWLS AND GLASSES
This form of growing bulbs has become very
popular within recent years. It is very simple
and has proved to be entirely successful. Any
earthenware receptacle that holds water may
be used, and any of the fibrous mixtiu-es sold by
bulb merchants, such as cocoa-nut fibre or moss
fibre, may be employed for the root medium.
Tlie medium does not matter much so long as
the after-treatment is right. A few small pieces
of charcoal should be mixed with the fibre to
keep it sweet.
Pot firmly and just cover the bulb with what-
ever medivmi is used, taking care that it is neither
too wet nor too dry. A good test is the old one
of taking a handful and closing the hand upon
it and then opening it ; if the lump just holds
together, but falls asunder directly it is touched,
then all is well and potting can proceed.
The number of bulbs to bo placed is best left
to the taste of the individual ; but they should
neither be overcrowded nor look meagre. Care
should be taken to avoid filling the vases quite
full of fibre, as if that were done particles would
be constantly falling over and making a mess.
If this is guarded against, vases will be found
perfectly clean.
The next stage is to put them in an airy cellar
or room until the roots are formed and from one
and a half to two inches of top growth is made.
It is desirable that the store be frost-proof, but
the bulbs will endure a Uttle hardship.
Never bring bulbs directly from the cold to a,
warm greenhouse or room - always try to arrange
for an intermediate step. Tlien bring them into
heat or a warm sitting-room as required.
For tliis method to be successful the bulbs
will require constant care to see that they are
neither too dry nor too wet. Always stake or
tie up the leaves of bowl plants in good time.
Thin green sticks and green bast are the most
suitable, or special wire supports may be used for
heavy flowers, such as hyacinths. Care must be
taken not to spoil the natural appearance of the
flowers when fixing the support.
Bulbs may also be grown successfully in bowls
filled with clean pebbles or shell gravel and water.
They must be treated in the same way as
Hyacinths in glasses - that is, put in a dark
cupboard for sis or eight weeks, and then placed
in the window. Narcissi, Tulips, Hyacinths can
all be grown in this way, also the smaller bulbs,
such as Crocus, Snowdrop and Scilla, but these
are not quite so effective. Some of the larger
Lilies, such as the Joss Lily or Sacred Lily, can
be grown very successfully in gravel.
Hyacinths can also be grown in glasses,
although this mode of culture is not so populeur
as it used to be. Care should be taken to choose
smooth, symmetrical bulbs, which will fit the
necks of the receptacles. The water may come
close to the base without touching it. One or
two pieces of charcoal will help to keep it pure ;
sliould it become thick and smelly it will be wise
to pour it away and substitute fresh, but tlus
should be done very carefully, so as to avoid
injuring or drying the roots. The glasses
should be kept in a dark cupboard until the
roots reach the bottom of the receptacle. A
wire support, looped at the base to clasp the
neck of the bottle, will be necessary to keep the
plants from toppling over.
HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS
The old style of flower gardening, with itq
590
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ribbon borders and tender plants put out in
beds lato in May, is supposed to have passed
away for ever. The tendency in flower gar-
dening nowadays is to have an expanse of
well-kept turf, and to surround the grass with
borders filled with chosen hardy flowers.
Forming a Border. - In the first place it is
wise to make borders as wide as possible. When
the different kinds are bunched, none show to
advantage. Their individual beauties are lost.
Secondly, the ground for a herbaceous border
should be thoroughly prepared ; that is to say,
it should be dug to double the depth of a large-
sized spade, and have a hberal dressing of
manure incorporated. It should be dug in
autumn or winter if possible, so that it may
have time to settle down before planting time
comes in JIarch and April. Thirdly, and not
least important, careful consideration should be
devoted to the selection and arrangement of the
plants.
Three cardinal points may be urged on makers
of herbaceous borders: (1) To avoid putting
in any plants without considering the propor-
tions and colours of its neighbours ; (2) to allow
sufficient room for every plant to display its
individual characteristics ; and (3) to arrange
tho plants in groups which are beautiful in
themselves, and Ukewise make a haxmonious
whole.
Forethought is very necessary. It is hard
for the amateur to realise that the Uttie plants
which she puts in in spring will, at the end of
three months, have extended several feet.
The leading idea should not be to cover every
square inch of surface at the earliest possible
moment. That inevitably leads to ultimate
overcrowding. Bare earth in spring and early
summer is not in tho least offensive so long as
it is not weedy. With clear spaces between the
different groups tho hoe can be plied freely and
conveniently when the ground dries after every
shower, to the swift destruction of weeds, and
the immense benefit of the proper occupants of
the border.
Later in the year confusion is often caused
by the falling about of the growths of tall plants
in windy weather. This should be corrected at
once by staking and tying. In this connection
the amateur may be advised to remember that
tight " bunching-up " is undesirable, and that
a tie near the bottom of a plant, and another
near the top, will generally hold it more evenly
and securely than one in the middle. Plants
wit'i flower stems which droop gracefully should
not be held as straight and stiff as soldiers on
parade.
It has been mentioned that spring is a good
time for planting herbaceous borders, but it may
be done in autumn or winter (except when the
ground is hard with frost), if more convenient.
The amateur should not allow herself to bo
tied down by definitions. " Herbaceous plants "
has come to signify perennial plants, but there
is no reason whatever why beautiful annuals
should not be included.
It is sometimes difficult to ensure a fine and
continuous effect in a small border without
making two plantings, but the httle trouble
involved in this is so amply compensated by
the results obtained that it should never be
grudged. As an instance it is not easy to get
spring beauty in border groups without intro-
ducing bulbs, such as Tulips. Now these
brilliant flowers become unsightly when tho
bloom is gone, because of the fading of the
foliage. If they are left in the border, they
mar its beauty ; if they are taken up and the
ground left bare, the gaps are noticeable. The
proper course here is undoubtedly to form a
reserve of good Asters and Stocks, which may
be planted out when the Tulips fade. There is
no need to wait until the latter have lost their
foliage. They can be transplanted to a reserve
bed directly tho bloom is over, which, in tho case
of the late-flowering sections now so popular,
may be the end of May or the early half of June.
The Ivy-leaved Geranium is another plant
which comes in useful as a successional plan,
and the first half of June is an excellent time to
plant it out. A very pretty effect is produced
if low stumps, over which the plants may ramble,
are put in the border.
Even more valuable, because of the ease with
which it can bo raised in quantity from seed in
winter or spring, and its long period of blooming,
is the Snapdragon. It can be planted out at
almost any period of the summer, flourishes in
nearly all soils, and is very brilliant in colour.
One last suggestion for maintaining the beauty
of borders may be made, and that pertains to
the autumn. It is to grow a selection of Chry-
santhemums in a spare plot throughout the
summer, and when some of the larger of the
herbaceous (that is, stem -losing) plants fade
and become unsightly, to cut them down, and
plant tho Chrysanthemums near them. Her-
baceous borders are often ugly and untidy after
August, simply because the summer-flowering
plants are past their best, and there is nothing
to carry on the display. The provision of
autumn-blooming plants, such as Michaelmas
Daisies and Golden Rod, when the border is
first formed, will do something to prevent this,
but the introduction of the Chrysanthemums
can still be effected with advantage.
Anemones. - !Many of the Anemones are dwarf
plants, more suitable for the rockery than the
herbaceous border, but there are two notable
exceptions, the Crown and tho Japanese Ane-
mones. TTio former bloom in spring and
summer, and tho latter in late summer and early
autumn. One can buy roo^s of these, or seeds.
Tliey grow about a foot high, and make tho
most beautiful beds and border clumps imagin-
able. The Japanese Anemone grows about
HOME GARDENING
591
three feet high, and the best varieties have
single white, pink, or rose flowers about two
inches across. It is very graceful and beautiful,
and, as it thrives in most kinds of soil, and
spreads freely, it ought to be specially marked.
Campanulas. - The fact that the Canterbury
Bell is a Campanula can hardly fail to prepossess
amateurs in favour of this genus. When they
have studied it a Uttle they will find that it
contains plants very little less valuable than the
old favourite named. Some are quite dwarf ;
others are of medium height ; while still others
are nearly as tall as Hollyhocks. The Cam-
panuleis are mostly either blue or wliite. Some
are annuals, others biennials, and yet others
perennials. The first are best raised from seed
sown in spring, the second and third from seed
sown in early June.
Canterbury Bells. - The rise of some modern
flowers has not caused old favourites like the
Canterbury Bell to decline, nor is it likely to
do so, considering how powerful its claims are.
Its compact habit, great profusion of bloom,
brilliant colours, duration and cheapness com-
bine to render it indispensable. There are blue,
rose, and white varieties, and there is a duplex-
flowered form which is commonly called the
cup-and-saucer Campanula.
No flower gardener of limited means can afford
to ignore the Canterbury Bell. It will give
striking beauty to the beds at the cost of a few
pence. As fast as the flowers fade they can be
picked off, and fresh buds will form in abundance.
The Carnation. - The Carnation is a prime
favourite with almost every lover of flowers.
We may include the Pink and Picotee with it
in a general sense, and when we do so we widen
its appeal.
It is of attractive form and colour with de-
licious perfume, and there are few gardens
worthy of the name in which the Carnation is
not represented.
The Selfs and Fancies are the two most suit-
able classes for garden culture. The former are
one coloured, the latter are yellow or white
flowers irregularly marked with another colour.
The Picotees have a clearly defined line of
colour round the edges of the petals. Carna-
tions are beautiful both for beds and borders.
Strong plants make very attractive objects with
their tufts of greyish green foliage, large flowers
and brilliant colours.
They can be grown from seed by sowing out
of doors in early summer, but the flowers will
not possess any marked quality. It is better
to get young plants, and put them into the bods
or borders from the end of March to Juno. If
the soil is poor it ought to be dug two spades
deep and manured.
The plants may be put eighteen inches apart
and dressed firmly into the ground. The flower
stems will need support, and special stakes,
which axe not expensive, should be bought.
Pinks are propagated by means of young
shoots pulled out of their sockets.
The Carnation is hardy, but damp often kills
plants out of doors, especially in wet heavy soils.
Pinks are not so particular as to soil as Carna-
tions, and plants, if allowed to remain even
three years in the ground, will flower well each
season. They are very hardy and capable of
resisting the severest weather. They are among
the most desirable plants to grow in any garden.
The Chrysanthemum. - The Clirysanthemum is
the Golden Flower, the national floral emblem,
of Japan. This fact must have its interest
second only to the Rose as a popular flower in
Great Britain.
The fact that this magnificent plant is at its
best at a period when every other great flower
is practically over is one of the utmost im-
portance. That the Chrysanthemum is really
a hardy plant is conclusively proved by the
evidence of thousands of plants wlxich have
lived for years out of doors, passing luiscathed
through severe winters. The truth is that the
Chrysanthemum is hardy or not according to
the conditions under which it is grown. It is
always well worth while to grow a collection in
the garden for late as well as for early blooming.
Severe early frosts sometimes mar the flowers,
but in most years no harm is done. The plant
is easily grown and tractable, and with modifica-
tions in ouv system of culture we can get con-
siderable variation in growth. Tlie initial step
will be the purchase of a few plants from a
nurseryman, and this is likely to become an
annual occurrence, for we shall want to add
more varieties to our collection ; besides, new
ones are always coming out.
It is well to order Chrysanthemums in the
autumn or winter, even if they are not wanted
until the spring, especially if novelties are being
bought. The reason is that certain varieties,
and particularly new ones, are in great demand,
consequently there is a risk of not getting the
sorts that are wanted unless they are ordered
early.
Cuttings cost less than rooted plants, and axe
procurable in autumn ; but those who buy in
November have the care of the plants all through
the winter.
Amatetu's who are in this position will be well
advised to buy plants early for spring deliverj-.
They will be quite safe in the hands of a respect-
able nurseryman. If the plants are received
in March, they will be sturdy little specimens,
established in small pots, and well supphed with
roots.
Chrysanthemums are so beautiful for garden
decoration that we find it difficult to understand
why they are not used more. In part it is doubt-
less due to the fact that they are generally re-
garded as indoor plants, and not hardy.
No small advantage connected with the
plant is that it may be transplanted from one
592
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
place to another even when in bud, so long as
the precaution is taken of well watering the soil
first, and taking the plant up with a good deal
of earth. The work is best done in showery
weatlier. Plants so shifted soon re-establish
themselves, and in a few days are growing freely.
In due season they bloom well. Tlie importance
of this lies in the fact that a succession of flowers
can bo arranged in a border without over-
crowding. Instead of cramming the Chry-
santhemiuns into the border, there to half
smother themselves while they are waiting to
take the place of earlier flowers when the latter
shall have faded, the Chrysanthemums can bo
planted in good soil in some spare plot, with
plenty of room to grow into healthy and \'igorous
specimens. Earlier things can be cut down
when they are over, and the Chrysanthemums
planted near them. This greatly extends the
beauty of a border. Similarly, beds may be
planted with Chrysanthemums after summer
flowers have faded.
Although Chrysanthemums are often allowed
to look after themselves year after year, no
trouble being taken to divide them, or to give
fresh soil, outdoor plants benefit by atten-
tion. The clumps may be spUt up, and when
th^y start growing in spring, planted in fresh,
manured soil. But probably the best plants ere
got by raising a few fresh ones from cuttings
every spring. This does not , involve much
trouble, and it ensures young, vigorous plants
which will produce abundance of large, brilliant
flowers. Soakings of water in dry weather,
and occasional doses of hquid manure will of
course benefit the plants.
The Pompon and Single varieties are the most
generally useful for outdoor cultiire, owing to
their branching yet neat habit and abundance
of bright flowers. They can be cut from freely,
and will prove quite capable of yielding a
great deal of material for room decoration,
as well as making a brilliant display in the
garden.
The Dahlia. - This is a plant of very free
growth. Provided it is raised sturdily and
given free soil, it grows with refreshing vigour,
and soon shows a great array of bright and
cheerful flowers. Tliey show a variety in colour
- brilliant carmine, rich crimson, pure white,
clear yellow, a delicate blush, a bright rose,
maroon. Some are bicolours, and there is a
section with flaked flowers.
There are many different kinds of Dahlias,
but the amateur ^vill get his best effects from the
Cactus, Pompon, Single and Paeony flowered
sections. There are, however, some large
double Dahlias, which are good from the garden
point of view.
It is useless to grow Dahlias in poor shallow
soil - if the best results are expected. One
must have deep, richly cultivated land. Tlio
Dahlia loves plenty of good food, and it loves
moisture. A heavy soil will suit it better than
a light one.
In mild districts Dahlias may be planted
early in May. Plenty of room should be allowed.
Six feet from plant to plant will not be too much.
At the same time as they are put in a support in
the form of a stout stake standing four feet out
Planting Dahlias. How to plant old tubers and
fix stakes before replacing the soil.
of the ground should be inserted. These look
rather obtrusive at first, but cannot well be put
in at a later stage without injuring the roots.
The soil should be slightly basined around the
stem, not mounded.
Dahlias In Autumn. - In a cool, mild, moist
autumn the Dahlias may remain in beauty until
November, but the first sharp frost that catcher*
them %vill blacken the foliage and etop the
growth. When this happens it is useless to
retain them ; the sooner they are cut down the
better, as they will never recover, but will die
quite away. The stem may be severed just
above the ground, and the top growth cleared
away. Some growers let the roots lie in the
ground throughout the winter. No harm will
follow if the soil is warm and friable, but m cold,
damp soils the tubers may decay. It is decidedly
safer to lift them, and after letting them stand
upside down on their stumps for a day or two,
in order to facilitate the escape of moisture, to
store them. Tliey pass the winter best in a dry,
frost-proof place. If increase is not desired
and notliing but garden decoration is thought
of, the stools may be replanted intact in spring,
and with a certain amount of growth-thinning
they will give fairly satisfactory results ; more-
over, they will flower early, if that is considered
an advantage.
Delphiniums. - Plants with stems four or five
feet high, the lower part furnished with broad,
much-cut leaves, and the upper position with
bright blue flowers. Tliey are not difficult to
grow and are beautiful for borders. They
require careful stalking. There are several
HOME GARDENING
593
varieties, and can be had in all shades from
palest lavender to deepest indigo.
Evening Primroses. - These are characterised
by great profusion of bloom, and are bright
border plants. The principal drawback is a
tendency to straggle, but this is not so marked
in one or two of the modern varieties. The
most compact Evening Primroses are the species
Fruticosa and its variety Youngi, both yellow
flowered. The latter is perhaps the most useful
that we can have, as in addition to its closeness
of growth it has the merit of producing a great
mass of brilliant flowers.
Pansies. - Considering that it is a lowly plant,
incapable of yielding those bold masses of colovu",
which the modern flower gardener loves so much,
the pansy remains a decided favourite, especially
in Scotland where the humid cUmate seems to
suit its growth. But it will succeed with very
little coaxiiig in moist, clay soils, even in the
extreme south of England.
The work of the cultivator is easier if he plants
fairly early, say by the end of March. At that
period the nights, if not the days, are always
cool ; moreover, heavy showers may be expected.
A liberal rainfall and cool nights between them
are a great help in getting Pansies well estab-
lished. If planting is not done until May or
June far more attention is needed to get the
plants into free growth. Pansies bloom for a
long time and increase very rapidly. Tlie hardy
kinds will take no harm by being left out of
doors all winter.
Phloxes. - A most beautiful and valuable class
of garden flowers. Th^y bear their flowers in
bunches at the summit of slender stems clothed
with narrow, lance-shaped leaves. The colours
are very beautiful, soft and refined. Some
flower early and others late in summer.
Primroses and Polyanthuses. - These are hardly
herbaceous plants in the ordinary acceptation
of the term, because they are not leafless through-
out the winter. On the contrary, they grow
in mild spells, and are at their best in spring,
when the majority of true herbaceous plants are
just awakening from their winter sleep. Prim-
roses and Polyanthuses may be introduced into
herbaceous borders with great advantage, as
well as into ordinary flower-beds ; they can be
shifted into beds and borders in autumn, when
the herbaceous and annual plants are fading,
and moved out again in the spring, when other
plants are coming on.
Pyre thrums. - These are valuable in more
ways than one. They are among the earliest
of the border plants to bloom, and they
bloom very profusely. Tlie foliage is distinctly
handsome, and the colours are brilliant and
varied. They are easily grown and are very
hardy.
Gladioli. - One of the most beautiful of late
summer flowers. A neat, somewhat close
grower, with sword-shaped leaves and arching
flower stems closely studded with funnel-shaped
flowers.
Irises. - These stand forth as among the
most valuable of border plants. The Flag
section are particularly vigorous in growth,
and have large brilliant flowers. They will grow
almost anywhere. Others require a very moist
situation.
Michaelmas Daisies. - Very useful in borders,
as they bloom when other flowers are beginning
to fade. They have vigour of growth, free
blooming and bright, varied colours.
Ox-eye Daisies. - A species of Chrysanthemums.
There is not much variety about these flowers,
but they are useful in borders. They flower
well and are easily grown.
Paeonles. - These are among the finest of our
hardy plants. The niimber of varieties has
grown rapidly within the last few years, and they
can now be had in many shades of pink and red
as well as white. They require abundance of
room to look well.
Violas. - Sometimes called the tufted pansy,
and the name is not inapt, inasmuch as the
growth is tufty and the plants are at least as
much Pansies as Violas.
The plants are distinguished by dense, com-
pact growth, relatively large flowers, rich and
diversified colours, and great profusion and
persistency in flowering. Violas are admirably
adapted for forming a groundwork for other
plants. They can be utilised for this purpose
in herbaceous borders and in rose-beds. If
planted in autumn along with bulbs, many charm-
ing effects can be made. They can also be used
for forming edgings to beds and borders.
It is desirable to avoid planting in straight
Unes. Wlien Violas are employed for an edging
to wide borders, an irregular hne in the inside
should be followed, so that the occupants of
the border may extend forward amongst the
Violas at different points. If one will have a
ribbon border of Violas, let notliing else be
associated with them, and let the varieties be
most carefully selected for the purpose.
To get the best out of Violas, plants should
be bought in spring, and planted in deeply-dug,
well-manured soil. The earlier this is done the
better, because when planted early they have
a good chance of getting well estabhshed before
the hot weather comes. The plants enjoy depth,
coolness, moisture, and fertilits^ They may be
planted about nine inches apart.
Constant cuttings should be practised through-
out the summer. The flowers will be found
useful in the house, and, apart from that, the
regular picking will prevent seed-pods forming,
and so keep the plants growing.
ROSES
There is a charm about a beautiful Rose garden
which appeals irresistibly to every lover of
2p
594
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
flowers. It is not necessary to win a prize at a
Rose show to enjoy Roses when they axe used
in free, informal, natural ways. People who love
Roses must not allow themselves to be unduly
influenced by what they see and hear at shows.
They must learn about beautiful garden Roses -
what they are, and how to manage them in order
to get lovely garden scenes, together with abund-
ance of flowers for bowls and vases.
Tliere should be notliing stiff, stilted, and
formal about Roses, whether in the growing of
them or the utilisation of them. We should look
upon them as cheerful, delightful, affectionate
companions. To put the trees in stiff rows,
grow them on a level, and prune them back to
mere stumps, Uke a blackthorn hedge, is to rob
them of all chance of showing whether they
possess natiual beauty. Tlie Rose of our love
is not the Rose of the show tent, but of the flower-
bed, arch and pillar. It is the Rose that swings
golden, and pink, and crimson clusters Ughtly
in the summer breezes.
There are many different types of Roses : -
We read of Perpetual Roses, Tea Roses, Hybrid
Tea Roses, Damask Roses, China Roses, Moss
Roses, and Monthly Roses. But even these are
not all, for we find a reference to the Austrian
Brier, the Japanese Rose, the Province Rose, the
Ayrshire Rose, and many more with more or
less forbidding botanical names. The average
flower gardener would be ill-advised to trace the
great classes back to their source ; this is the duty
of the botanist, and those who love Roses for their
garden beauty will rather content themselves
with considering how they can best utiUse the
beautiful material which awaits their attention.
Roses can be used in a variety of ways. They
may be planted in a border with other flowers,
in a special bed by themselves, or in small plots
in the grass. They can also be used for climbing
up walls, or covering arches, pillars and fences.
Ready-made arches, both of rustic timber and
metal, can be purchased at moderate prices,
and these will be admirable in suitable places,
such SIS over divisions of garden walks. Rose
pillars are very beautiful, and they are quite
inexpensive. Let the reader imagine a stiff
ribbon border, with the plants all on a level,
and then imagine a Vjorder of various kinds of
plants, informal and irregular, with Rose
pillars rising here and there. How much more
graceful and pleasing is the latter than the
former.
If possible we must find room for a bed of
Roses. This must not be filled with stiff,
straight standards or with hard-pruned dwarfs,
but with bush Roses of vigorous growth and free-
flowering character. The stronger sorts must
be selected, which will form real bushes without
much cutting and still bear handsome flowers.
There are many good varieties suitable for this.
Whether we grow Roses on or in arches, fences,
, walls (for we must not forget the dwelling-house),
or beds, we must give them abundance of good
food if they are to produce those generous masses
of bloom which we want. Starvation will not
do, half-measures will not do. We must have
strong, healthy plants, growing in rich soil.
The beginner in gardening should buy the
plants and not attempt budding or striking from
cuttings, both of which require experience. The
plants should be procured in the autumn, and
directly the order has been sent cff the groimd
must be prepared. The best time to plant is
about the beginning of November.
Soil and Planting. - Roses hke what is called
" holding " soil, such as strong loam or clay.
Light, sandy, gravelly or chalky land is not so
good.
The ground ought to be treated in this way :
(1) Mark a strip two feet wide right across one
end of the bed ; (2) take out the soil to a foot
deep and wheel it to the other end of the bed ;
(3) spread a coat of manure in the trench and
dig it into the subsoil ; (4) fill up the trench with
the topsoil from another two-feet strip ; (5) so
proceed until the end of the bed is reached ;
and finally (6) fill up the end trench with the
loose soil that came from the first strip. This
greatly enriches and deepens the ground. Road
scrapings are good, and this material is generally
procurable in the suburbs of a town. Allow the
soil a week or two to settle down, and then plant
the Roses, not deeply, but work the soil very
firmly about the roots. Give generous doses
of hquid manixre throughout the summer and
soap-suds at all times when available. Hoeing
the soil among the roses is also good practice.
Any trouble that is taken with the soil will be
amply rewarded.
Pruning. - As regards newly planted dwarf or
standard Roses, it is generally agreed that the
branches are best pruned back to three or four
buds about the end of March : fresh shoots soon
break from the short stumps left. Experts differ
as to whether climbing Roses should be Jut back
in the same way. Some advocate that the long
canes should be cut back to the ground, while
others declare that this is not necessary. If the
Roses are planted in rich, deep soil, shortening
is not so necessary. As regards general pruning
- that is, when the plants are well established -
growers may proceed on the following hues : -
(1) Dwarfs. - Prune varieties which form
summer shoots of about the thickness of lead
pencils, back to within six buds of the base every
spring - but allow varieties which form shoots as
thick as the finger to extend two or three feet -
and merely trim the tips and the weak breast-
wood which forms on the main stems.
(2) Standards. - The great majority of the
Roses which are grown as standards form summer
shoots of about the thickness of a lead-pencil,
and may be cut back to four buds about the end
of March each yoar.
(3) cumbers with long Canes.- Climbers which
HOME GARDE^iTING
595
form long, strong, upright canes, such as Crimson
Rambler and Carmine Pillar, do not need much
pruning. When, however, considerable numbers
of canes have formed, and are getting thick and
tangled, the old ones may be cut right out to
give more room for the young ones which have
pushed from the base.
(4) Climbers with much Side-wood. - There
are several valuable climbing Roses, which throw
many Nagorous young side-canes from their main
rods ; and these are particularly valuable for
walls, because they cover a considerable sm-face
in a short time. They do not need cutting back
when established, but will be the better for an
annual trimming, thinning out tangled shoots.
A golden rule in pruning is to prune strong
growers hghtly and weak growers severely.
Different Kinds of Roses. - In the catalogues
Roses are generally divided into the following
different classes : (1) Hybrid Perpetuals, H.P.,
(2) Tea Roses, T., and (3) Hybrid Tea, H.T.
The H.P.'s form a considerable class and com-
prise the largest flowered and most brilUantly
coloured of aU roses. They have two well-
marked flowering periods, the first being the end
of June or the early part of July, and the second
the first half of September, They are not
continuous bloomers Uke the Teas. There are,
however, one or two varieties, notably the lovely
pink Mrs. John Laing, which bloom over a
much longer period than the majority. The
H.P.'s are of mixed parentage, the Monthly,
Bom-bon, and Damask Roses having all been
used as parents for tl-Dm. They are mostly
green stemmed with five rough leaflets. As a
class they are very strongly scented, although
all are not equally fragrant.
Tea-scented Roses differ very considerably
from the H.P.'s. The young shoots of the Teas
are red or brown, and they are beautiful from the
time they have made their first few inches of
growth. They are more continuous in blooming
than the H.P.'s.
Almost every bit of new wood on a vigorous,
healthy Tea will bloom, and as such wood keeps
coming for several successive months, it follows
that flowering is practically incessant. They
have neat flowers and long stems, and are deUght-
ful button-hole flowers. They possess a piquant,
refreshing, agreeable, but not powerful perfume.
While they differ in degrees of vigour, the
majority are extremely vigorous, and the more
they are cut the hotter they will bloom. The
amateur will be well advised to give the Tea
Roses the lion's share of his ground.
Hybrid Teas. - This is the variety which has
shown the greatest development within recent
years. They are the most valuable of dwarf
trees. As a class the H.T.'s are distinguished
by strong growth with a fair amount of young
spring colour (al+hough not quite so nuicli as
the Teas), profuse blooming, large flowers, and
bright, cleax colours. They are not, as a whole.
quite so neat in the bud as the Tests, nor are the
expanded flowers so full and brilliant as the
H.P.'s, but they have a beauty and character
of their own. Their long flower stems make
them particularly valuable for cutting. Like
tlie Teas, they are continuous growers and
bloomers ; indeed, one or two, notably the rich
and fragrant Griiss an Tephtz, are rarely without
flowers.
Noisettes. - ^This section is not important in
point of numbers, but it includes two or three
chmbing varieties of considerable value. They
bear flowers in clusters.
Climbing Roses other than Noisettes. - There
are several beautiful chmbing Roses which do
not come into the Noisette class, such as the
Sweet Briers, Polyanthas, Singles, and Banksian.
Special Selections. - Tlie following are a few
selections of varieties for various purposes.
These are carefully chosen to unite vigour of
growth with bright colours. Many, too, are
perfumed, but the grower will not find such
fragrance in all the pillar Roses 6is in the old
Cabbage Rose.
Alister Stella Gray, yellow.
Gloire de Dijon, yellow.
Longworth Rambler, crimson.
Madame Alfred Carri^re, white.
Reine Marie Henriette, red.
Wm. Allen Richardson, copper.
SELECT ROSES FOR BEDS
Anna Olivier, white or buff.
Anioine Rivoire, cream.
Caroline Testout, pink.
Frau Karl Druschki, white.
Griiss an Teplitz, crimson.
Gustave Nabonnand, flesh.
La France, peach.
Liberty, crimson.
Madame Abel ChcUenay, rose.
Marie van Houtte, lemon, tinted pink.
Mrs. John Laing, rose.
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, rose pink.
The above lists will meet the requirements of
those who only want a small collection of Roses.
596
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
TENDER BUDDING PLANTS
These are plants which can only be grown out
of doors in the summer, and unless the amateur
is the possessor of a frame or greenliouse they
are not such a useful section, as in most cases
it would mean bujang the special plants each
season. A few of them may, however, be men-
tioned, as thoy are general favourites.
The Geranium. - In the days of the ribbon
border, wliicli consisted of a row of scarlet
geraniums, a row of yellow calceolarias, and a
row of lobelias, tliis was considered the queen of
flowers, and florists vied with each other as to who
would produce the finest specimens. Although
this is now a thing of the past, the geranium
still holds its own ; it is a plant which can never
drop out of our garden ; it is too persistent in
blooming, too bright and varied in colour ever
to go out entirely. It is useful in greenhouses,
in window-boxes, tubs and vases. A few clumps
of, say, a dozen plants might very well be
arranged in mixed borders.
Zonal Geraniums are generally planted in
spring, and at that period they are undeniably
tender, although it takes more than a slight
frost to kill them in autumn, when the stems
have grown thick and woody. The spring
plants have been made tender by being grown
under glass.
There are many varieties of Geranium, some
attractive by reason of their foliage, and others
that are admired for their flowers. In mild
districts they may be planted outside in the
middle of May, but in cold locahties the planting
should be deferred until the end of the month.
Old plants may be preserved through the
winter by lifting them from their beds in autumn
before the frost has touched them. Tlien prune
off both branches and roots, leaving no more
than short stumps, and hang up the plants in a
cellar or attic where they will be safe from frost.
Provided that the plants can be kept sound, the
plan is excellent, as fresh growth starts in spring
and nice plants soon develop.
Geraniums will thrive in almost any kind of
soil. They grow the most rapidly in rich soil,
naturally, but there is such a thing as over-
luxuriance. Very free growth means large,
succulent plants, which do not flower very well,
especially in a wet season. Geraniums with
beautiful foUage rarely have really fine blooms,
but they can bo associated with other plants
which are attractive by reason of their flowers.
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. - Tliis section of the
geranium still enjoys great favour. It is grown
in the garden, in the conservatory, in vases,
and in window-boxes. Its habit is loose and
flowing. It droops flower-laden streamers from
the summit of pillars and from window ledges.
Its flowers are large and abundant, and they
come in a long succession throughout the summer.
The leaves have not the brilliant markings of
the ordinary or Zonal Geranium, but the ivy
shape is attractive. They may be given a some-
what better soil than the Zonals without fear
of their maldng such exuberant growth as to
flower badly. The Ivy -leaved Pelargoniums can
be bought with single or double flowers, but the
latter are much the more largely used. As they
are tender, like the Zonals, they ought not to
be planted before mid-May.
Calceolarias. - The Calceolaria is another com-
ponent of the old-time ribbon border. The
bedding type retains its stems after flowering,
instead of dying down, and is therefore termed
shrubby. It is indeed an evergreen, and
although not quite hardy, it is by no means a
tender plant. There is no great range of colours
among the shrubby garden Calceolarias, al-
though they are not all yellow. There are white,
orange, red, and violet species in addition to the
yellow. The Golden Glory is one of the finest.
It is a splendid plant with large trusses, and the
colour is bright yellow. Clumps of Calceolarias
may be placed in selected positions in beds and
borders, and they may be used in window-
boxes also. They are so bright and cheerful
that they merit attention for these purposes,
and if used with discretion they do not over-
weight the garden.
Young Calceolarias are much more hardy than
young Geraniums, and consequently they may
be planted out a month earlier, without much
risk of injury from frost. If planted early in
good moist soil they have a chance of getting
well rooted before the hot weather comes on.
The plants may be set a foot apart. They will
soon begin to flower, and will retain their beauty
all the summer.
Lantanas. - These charming plants are very
useful to bedders, and any amateur can grow
them with ease. In foliage they resemble
Heliotrope, and the flowers are borne in close
heads. The colours are bi'illiant and varied.
Inasmuch as the plants bloom freely and con-
tinuously and will grow in ordinary "oil, they
are undeniably useful. They have the defect
of a straggly habit of growth, but this can be cor-
rected by pinching in the early stages.
The Lantanas are useful for window-boxes,
tubs, and large vases, as well as for beds.
Lobelias. - The blue Lobelia is a lowly plant,
growing only a few inches high, of dense habit,
and blooming so profusely as to cover itself
with flowers. It is useful for putting round the
edges of beds and for window-boxes. It can bo
sown from seed, but it is better to buy cuttings.
May is a good time for planting. They are best
planted in tufts about two inches thick, the
clumps about three inches apart ; they will then
fill out and make a continuous line of colour.
They wall not spread, however, in a poor, dry
soil. The ground should be moist and fertile.
Given good land, the plants will remain in bloom
until autumn.
HOME GARDENING
597
Begonias. - Nothing in the way of dwarf
plants can well be more beautiful than Tuberovis
Begonias. The foliage is handsome, the flowers
are glorious, the form is beautiful, while the
colours are as lovely as they are varied. Pure,
snow-wliite, lemon and deep yellow, blush,
soft pink and dainty rose, salmon, orange and
brilliant scarlet - all these are present.
If the plants are healthy and growing, they will
keep on flowering tiiroughout the summer,
and as long in autumn as the frost will keep
away.
Amateurs who want to have a thoroughly
successful bed of Tuberous Begonias ought to
procure tubers in early March, bury them in a
box of moist cocoa-nut fibre refuse or leaf -mould,
and put them in a house. The heat and
moisture will start them into growth quickly.
If the material is moist, roots wiU push into it
freely.
If the plants are six to eight inches liigh at
the end of May, with a good mat of fibres, they
will be in perfect condition for planting. The
roots should not be shaken clear of the fibre
when they are removed from the box ; on the
contrary, as much as clings to them must be
allowed to remain.
The plants may be put eighteen inches apart
in heavy, rich, moist soil, but somewhat closer in
lighter, drier ground. They may be settled in
with a good watering, and if the weather should
keep dry after planting it will be well to give
further waterings until they have got nicely into
growth.
Regular hoeing will suffice to maintain steady
progress. Flowers will come, and will keep on
coming - in fact, there will be a steady stream
of lovely blossoms. But the culminating dis-
play will be in the cool days of September, and
(if frost permits) early October. The plants
will be laden with briUiant blossoms, and the
bed will be one of the sights of the garden.
Fading flowers should' be picked off regularly
throughout the season.
The problem of wintering the plants is a
simple one, as they will lose their leaves and
stems by a process of natural decay. The
tubers can be hfted, dried, and stored in any diy
frost-proof place until spring.
Fuchsias. - The hardier of the Fuchsias, such
as CoralUna and Riccartoni, are sometimes in-
troduced into beds and flower borders, but one
can hardly speak of them as bedding plants in
the ordinary sense. When they are used in the
garden they are generally planted permanently,
and cut to the ground every autumn. In cold
districts it is well to cover the root-stocks with
litter in November. This should not bo removed,
nor should the dead branches be cut off until
the Fuchsias begin to grow in the spring. The
garden Fuchsias are particularly graceful plants.
Heliotrope. - There is no reason why lovers
of the fragrant " Cherry Pie " should not inti'o-
duce it into their flower-beds. The richer hues,
such as purphsh blue and violet, wiU be foiind
the most effective in beds.
HeUotropes are tender plants, and ought not
to be put into the garden before the end of May.
While they are not really particular as to soil,
they do not grow to perfection in a close,
retentive medium. On this account the soil
ought to be thoroughly broken up, and if it is
of a stiff, holding character it will be well to
lighten and disintegrate it with biirnt refuse,
leaf -mould, road sweepings, or thoroughly de-
cayed manure. The plants will reqtiire pegging
down as they grow, and to allow room for tliis
they should be planted eighteen inches apart.
WALLS AND FENCES
In small gardens the fence or wall area is very
valuable, and it is most important to make use
of every inch of space. This appUes particularly
to town gardens, and yet where plants are
wanted the most they are often vised the least.
Beautiful flowers can never have a greater
influence than when relieving the desolating
and depressing bareness of terrace houses in
towns and subm-bs ; moreover, the garden
ground is almost invariably limited in such
districts.
Probably the most common cause of house
fronts being bare is that the people who occupy
the dwelUngs have not acquired a love for
gardening and an interest in plants. We must
just hope that as time passes more and more
will come to think of the exterior as well as the
interior of their homes - will want pretty plants
on the outside as well as attractive wall-papers
within, and enjoy the pleasure of throwing open
a bedroom window in the morning to look down
on a pretty and fragrant display of flowers.
Tliere is no good reason why the walls of town
and subiu'ban houses should not be covered.
It is true that some beautiful plants that we
should dearly like to recommend, such as the
magnificent Crimson Rambler Rose, will not
thrive, even vath the most skilful and assiduous
attention. But, as we shall see, there are other
plants which will succeed.
Before considering the best plants for walls,
however, let us take into accomit tho principal
things that make for failure and success.
The first practical point is improvement of
the soil. The soil-area under a wall is often onh'
a few inches wide and deep ; the " soil " itself
is half stones. Deepen the area to at least two
feet, increase it if possible to a square yard for
each plant, put in half-a-dozen good heaped
spadefuls of turfy loam and manure, and tho
whole prospect is changed. With the increased
body of soil there will at once be more moisture
and more food available, but it will be ad\'isable
to give occasional soakings of water (and they
should be real soaldngs, not driblets) in summer.
598
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
together vrith weekly applications of liquid
manure.
Our next important point is the period of
planting. Failures often follow because the
plants are put out in lato spring, when the sun
has become powerful.
Those who want to succeed with climbers and
creepers should be encouraged to begin their
Planting Roses against a Wall. A, centre of plant kept
open ; B, the roots spread out in a wide shallovv basin
> before covering in.
operations earlier. The plants ought to be put
in by the end of March (except in the case of
tender annuals) ; then they will be nicely rooted
by the time the hot weather comes, and will not
merely be able to stand the heat, but will grow
the better for it.
A third point is pruning.
Broadly speaking, an amateur can never do
harm by cutting back a newly-planted climber,
but may see the plants do badly if this is not
practised. Cutting down is not generally done,
because a person objects to buying a plant and
then throwing away seven-eighths of it ; he thinks
it wasteful. It is the reverse. If a plant is
cut back to within a few buds of the ground,
the vigour of the roots will be concentrated on
those buds, and strong shoots will result ; more-
over, shoots will come freely from the under-
ground buds.
Given deep, fertile, moist (but not sodden)
soil, early planting, and bold cutting back, wall
plants will thrive in most plax"s.
Among the many plants which can be used
for this purpose, the following few might be
mentioned : -
Roses. - For special varieties for growing on
walls, see p. 595.
Clematises are very beautiful. There are
different types of this flower, and some require
more drastic treatment than others in respect
of pruning. The Jackmanii, deep blue, the
Madame Edouard Andr^, red, and snow-white
Jackmanii are three of the most useful, and they
never do so well as when they are hard pruned
every yetur. The flowering shoots of one year
may be cut close back to their base in the spring
of the following season, soon after they have
started growing ; and the plants will then push
strong new shoots, which will produce far
better flowers tlian would be borne on the weak
shoots that would spring from the old flowering
growths. With Fair Rosamond, Miss Bateman,
and The Queen hard pruning must be avoided ;
all that is needed is thinning and trimming when
the plants get crowded and tangled. The white
Montana is also a useful, though small, Clematis.
Jasmine. - The yellow, winter- blooming Jas-
mine, nudiflorum, is a thorough subiu-ban plant,
and it is really attractive. It bears its small
yellow flowers during mild spells throughout the
whole winter, blooming in advance of the leaves.
It is quite suitable for training against a low
fence.
There is also a large form of the common,
white, summer-flowering Jasmine, and there is
a variety with golden leaves.
Honeysuckles. - Perhaps the best of these is
the variegated Japanese, which has prettily
veined leaves. Flexuosa is one of the best of
the Honeysuckles that are grown principally for
their flowers, and is very sweet. Then there is
the winter-flowering Honeysuckle, which pro-
duces its sweet white flowers in February or
jMarch.
Dutchman's Pipe. - This quaint flower always
interests people.
Ceanothus is a very attractive wall shrub.
There are several species and varieties, mostly
with pale blue or lavender -coloured flowers.
They bloom profusely in summer, and may ue
grown successfully on south and west walls.
The variety Gloire de Versailles is one of the best.
The Japanese Quince. - This will thrive in the
suburbs and is one of the most valuable of wall
shrubs. It blooms abundantly in winter and
early spring. The typical species is bright red,
but there are several varieties.
Veitch's Virginian Creeper. - This is too vigorous
for the dividing wall, but may be planted to
cover the walls of the house. It is of neat habit
and will cling naturally to brick or stone walls
by means of its own suckers, clothes the walls in
a pleasing mantle of green in summer,and changes
to warm red in autumn.
Variegated Ivy. - This is very suitable for the
higher part of the party wall, and the kind
called Hedera Helix rhombea is to be recom-
mended. It is more vigorous in growth than
most of the variegated sorts, and the leaves are
prettily margined. To get the utmost vigour
in Ivy, one must get the Irish, but that is green-
leaved.
Kerrya Japonica. - The double variety of this
plant must not be overlooked when the claims
of comparatively dwarf plants are being con-
sidered, as they will be for certain positions.
This is the plant which bears double yellow i
HOME GARDENING
599
flowers nearly as large as Gardenias. It is very
bright and cheerful, and it is easily grown-
Annual Ramblers. - Much can be done to
beautify walls and fences in summer with annual
flowers, notably Convolvuluses, Everlasting
Peas, and Tropseolums (including Nasturtiums),
and of those best raised under glass and planted
out in May may be named Canary Creeper,
Ornamental Gourds, and Maurandya.
Other handsome wall plants are procurable.
Some amateurs may like to try the old Wistaria
sinensis, the large-leaved Vines, or the Passion
Flower, which, although not quite hardy, may be
tised.
WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS
The cultivation of beautiful flowers in windows
and rooms is one of those delightful pursuits
which appeal to all classes.
Success in the cultivation of room plants turns
partly on the choice of material and partly upon
care in ventilating and watering. A great many
plants wiU remain in health for months and even
years in a light, airy room, but would become
unhealthy in a week in a dark, stuffy one. There
are one or two plants, notably the Aspidistra,
which will stand almost anything, but the
majority will not. Most plants do badly in
rooms lit by open gas-burners if the window
is not kept open at night. Ventilation is good
for plants as well as for human beings.
It is not wise to choose very tender plants,
because rooms, however warm during the day,
are often cold at night. It is not prudent to
rely on ferns, unless they be grown in a case,
because the air is likely to be too dry for them.
If a tender plant is grown it should be removed
from the neighbourhood of the window when
the family retires to rest, and in cold weather
covered with several thicknesses of newspaper.
Should it happen to get touched by frost, it
should not be stood near the fire, but placed in a
cool shady place and sprinkled with cold water.
This wiU save it if anything will.
The following are a few of the plants which
will thrive in rooms with proper care and
attention : -
Foliage Plants. - Palms. - These may be main-
tained in health for years in living rooms, even
if gas is burned, with ordinary care and attention.
They should be kept in or near the window in
order that they may get plenty of light, being
turned occasionally to bring a different side near
the light. A compost of three parts fibrous
loam, one part each of leaf mould and decayed
maniire, and a tenth of coarse washed sand will
suit them. They should be watered when the
pot rings hollow under the knuckles and at no
other time. During mild showers they miglit
be stood out of doors for an hour or two, as the
rain will cleanse and freshen them. An occa-
sional sponging with soft, tepid water will also
do them good. This attention to the foliage is
of great benefit to palms. Re -potting once a
year will be ample, and this may be done in
spring. When they have got to the largest
convenient size of pot, top dressing may be
substituted. The plant may be turned out of
the pot, the outer casing of soil crumbled away,
the drainage re-arranged, and the plant replaced
in the pot, fresh earth being rammed down the
sides and packed on the top. The pot should
not be filled quite full ; an inch of space must be
left for water - two inches in the case of a large
pot. It is also essential that the pots should
be stood in saucers of water, in order to prevent
the mess that would be made by water escap-
ing through the drainage at every watering, but
the water should not be allowed to rest in the
saucers all day, except in summer ; and even
then periodical emptyings will have to be re-
sorted to, so as to avoid an overflow.
An ounce of superphosphate to the gallon of
water, applied once a week or so, or a pinch of
one of the advertised fertilisers spread on the
surface and watered in, will do good.
Ferns. - ^Every grower of room plants likes to
have a few ferns.
The Crested Ribbon Fern and the Maidenhair
are two that will thrive with care. The Maiden-
hair is not an easy plant to manage in a room,
as it does not like changes of temperatvire ; at
the same 'ame it has been known to remain
in excellent condition for several j'ears. Great
care in watering is necessary, and the plants
must not be allowed to get frozen. The Ribbon
Fern does very well with care. It is charming
in a small state for the table. The Sea Spleen-
wort, the Lady Fern, the Male Fern, the Sliield
Fern, and the Hart's Tongue may also be tried.
The best time for repotting ferns is the spring,
when the new fronds are seen to be moving. The
compost recommended for palms may be altered
to the extent of reducing the quantity of loam
by one half and substituting peat.
If a Maidenhair should fall into ill-health it
is advisable to cut it hard back, and let it break
again.
The Aspidistra. - The Parlour Palm, as it is
often called, is not a true palm. It is one of
the most valuable of house plants, because it
•wiW thrive under most conditions and does not
succumb quickly to unfavourable circumstances.
Most people prefer the variegated Aspidistra
to the plain green, and are generally disconsolate
when a variegated plant loses its silvery patclics.
They should learn that this is generally due to
providing too rich a soil. The more luxuriant
the growth the greater the likelihood of a pre-
ponderance of green. Plain loam and sand will
suffice ; manure and leaf-mould should both be
avoided.
The transference to the open air during
showers, the sponging of the leaves, and careful
watering are all beneficial.
600
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The India-rubber Plant. - This is not quite so
successful in a room, as draughts and changes
of temperature cause the lower leaves to fall.
But with care success is possible. It should
have the same treatment as palms.
The Parlour Fig. - This plant has broad,
deeply-cut fohage, \vith very tliick loaf-stalks.
It will keep healthy in a room for a long time
if carefully watered. It will not endure draughts
like an Aspidistra.
Berried Plants. - There are two berry -bearing
plants admirably adapted for room decoration,
namely, Ardisia crenata and the Winter Cherry.
The former, although little kno^vn, is the better
of the two, so far as endurance is concerned at
all events. Its berries are much smaller than
those of the Winter Cherry, and are darker in
colour. They hang on the plants for many
raontlis, and a plant %rill retain its beauty in a
room for more than half a year if it is properly
watered and the room ventilated. The Ardisia
will tlorive in the palm compost.
Flowering Plants. - The number of flowering
plants available for rooms turns on whether
there is a gleiss-house or not. The owner of a
greenhouse will be constantly bringing nice
plants that are just beginning to bloom into the
looms. They may bo plants that would not
thrive in a dwelling-house all the year round, but
are quite suitable for embcUishing it for a few
weel^.
Bulbs will be valuable in the winter. They
may be grown in water, in pots of earth, or in
vases of peat-moss litter, as directed on p. 689.
White Roman Hyacinths must be particularly
borne in mind, because they are so beautiful
both for the dinner-table and the window.
The beautiful white Arum Lily, too, must not
be overlooked. If it is kept in a pot throughout
the year care should be taken to give it abundance
of water, £is it is a semi-aquatic plant, and soon
suffers from drought. There is no need to keep
it in the house all the summer through. It may
be stood out of doors when it ceases flowering.
That it is a grand room plant is proved by the
sight of splendid old plants which bloom freely
every year. The Godfrey is a splendid variety.
Early Tulips, and Daffodils of the Trumpet
and Chalice sections, sire very useful for rooms.
The Due Van Thol Tulips will give very early
flowers ; and of the Narcissi, obvallaris (Tenby
Daffodil), Golden Spur, and Henry Irving will
be among the first in flower.
The Zonal Geranium is one of the most suc-
c ssful of window plants. It is so gay and so
accommodating and a profuse bloomer. There
are many beautiful varieties. There are also
the ivy-leaved and scented-leaved Geraniums,
which are both pretty and sweet. They are
quite summer plants.
Marguerites are stock favourites for windows,
both inside and out. Tlieir strong points are
their free and persistent blooming and their
attractive foliage. They are easy to keep
healthy so long as the leaf -mining maggot can bo
kept at bay.
WINDOW-BOXES
For those wlio have very small gardens or
perhaps no garden at all, flowers in window-
boxes form a special attraction, and if well
attended to they certainly help to make the
outside of a house bright and attractive.
An effort should be made to keep the boxes
filled with suitable flowers all the year round, and
even in the winter the flowering plants can be
replaced by pretty evergreens, such as the Golden
Privet, Winter Cherry, and Dwarf Holly Bushes,
&c.
If boxes are used they must be made to fit
the sill, but there is no objection to their over-
hanging a little in front, provided that there
is no fear of over-balancing. There must be a
strip at each end, thickened in front, to keep the
box clear of the sill, and level. A number of
holes should be bored or burnt in the bottom of
the box to permit of water escaping. These
holes may be covered with pieces of broken
flower-pot.
The boxes can then be filled up with good soil.
Some people prefer to have plants in pots on
their %vindow-sills, because of the facility for
making changes. There is no real objection to
tliis, but the grower must remember two things :
the first, that blocks or a strip of wood must be
placed along sloping sills to raise the front of
the pots and bring them level, otherwise the
plants cannot be properly watered ; the second,
that a support will be required to prevent their
being blown off. A framework to fit the window
can easily be made, and if it is faced with virgin
cork the pots will be hidden.
For spring decoration of window-boxes there
is nothing prettier than bulbs (see p. 687), and
those can very well be buried between the plants
already there. Hyacinths, Tulips, Snowdrops,
Crocuses, or Daffodils will all give pleasure.
Wiien bulbs are used in window-boxes it is a
good plan to associate coloured Primroses with
them, as the latter bloom later than most bulbs,
and maintain the display. They are beautiful
flowers, and will be at their best from the middle
of April to the middle of May.
All the popular, free-flowering plants, such
as Geraniums and Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums,
Fuchsias, Marguerites, Begonieis, China Asters,
Chrysanthemums, Campanula isophylla, and
Creeping Jenny will be available for summer
and autumn bloom.
It is a mistake to crowd too many different
kinds of plants into the boxes ; they only spoil
each other ; the groat point is to choose what will
bloom best in the particular aspect, and to try
to got a nice succession of flowera.
Another important point in window gajdening
HOME GARDENING
601
is to keep the plants well watered and never to
allow the soil to become too dry. Even although
rain may fall, it very often happens that the
boxes do not get much natural watering. The
watering ought to be thorough ; a mere stu'face
watering of the soil does more harm than good,
as it only attracts the roots upwards. A Uttle
liquid manure or a sprinkling of Clay's fertihser
from time to time will help to improve the soil
and keep the plants flourishing.
INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES
The best of plant cultivators are troubled by
insect enemies, although perhaps less severely
than the worst Careful cultivation combined
with tidiness and cleanliness are great pre-
ventives. There should be no heaps of rubbish
near the flower-bed, such as an accumulation of
weeds, heaps of stones, prunings of plants, &c.,
as these will just be hot -beds for insects to
breed. Insect-eating birds, such as starlings,
blackbirds, and tits, should be encouraged, and,
finally, when insects do appear prompt action
should be taken in all cases.
The following are some of the preparations
used for the destruction of insects, slugs, &c.
Lime. - This can be applied either dry or in a
liquid state. It is perhaps best appUed in the
form of dry freshly-slaked quick-lime. Lime-
water may be made by putting a lump of Ume
of the size of a cocoa-nut in a pail of water in
the morning, and straining off the Uquid when it
is clear.
Paraffin Oil and Soap Emulsion. - Boil one
pint of soft soap in two pints of water, and
stir in, after removal from the fire and while
still boiling hot, half a pint of parafl6ba oil ; the
working in of the oil when the soap is boiling
will go far to ensure amalgamation. Dilute
with five gallons of water. The mixture must be
thoroughly worked up by filling a syringe from,
and emptying it into, the vessel repeatedly. It
is best sprayed hghtly on the plants towards
evening with a fine syringe.
Soap-suds. - Make in the same way as above,
omitting the paraffin. Lifebuoy soap may be
used in some cases instead of soft soap.
Quassia Water. - Take half a pound of quassia
chips and soak them in half a gallon of cold
water for two or three hours. Then boil slowly
eight or ton hours. Strain and add water to
make five gallons. Melted soap is sometimes
added as well.
Tobacco Water. - Steep one ounce of strong
shag tobacco in one quart of water and strain
when the water is well coloured. Some soft soap
may be added. Tobacco is also used in the form
•, of snuff dusted on infested plants.
I Sulpliur. - ^This may be used in the form of the
^ yellow powder known as flnwei-s of sulphur, or
as sulphide of potassium. The latter is very
cheap and may be applied conveniently in solu-
tion. Dissolve one ounce of the chemical and
two ounces of soft soap in five gallons of water,
and spray the mixture on the plants in as fine a
state as possible.
Special Preparations. - In recent years the
most common means of keeping insects down
is by vaporising preparations of nicotine, which
is the poisonous principle of tobacco. l"he
substance, and a small appHance for vaporising
and distributing it, are sold together in handy
packets, varying in size according to the number
of plants to be treated. The packets can be
bought from all seedsmen and florists, and they
are not expensive. One that is extremely well
known is the " XL ALL." Another is West's.
These preparations must always be used strictly
in accordance with the instruction given.
The following are some of the most common
garden pests with simple remedies for their
destruction.
Greenfly. - This attacks all kinds of plants
and will work more havoc on a weak specimen
than on a strong one. It increases at a tre-
mendous rate. Syringe the plants well with
soap-suds or paraffin oil and soap emulsion.
Tobacco water and quassia water are also good.
When the points of shoots are affected they
should be dipped into quassia water. Flowers
in pots may be dusted with Keating's powder.
Red Spider. - This is a tiny mite which forms
colonies on the under leaves of many plants
and spins webs. Sulphur solution syringed on
the plants will sometimes check it. FaiHng this
try tobacco water or soap and paraffin emulsion.
Tlie leaves must be sprayed on the under as well
as the upper side. The red spider is almost
invisible to the naked eye, but the effect of its
operations is only too plain in the loss of sub-
stance and green in the leaves, and in the appear-
ance of red or bronze patches or the foUage
tin-ning yeUow. Another excellent remedy is to
spray the plants with common salt diluted in
water at the strength of one ounce of salt to
two gallons of water. If this is done in the cool
of the evening once a week, and the plants
syringed next day with clean water, it will have
the effect of keeping them clean.
Thrips. - Tliese little black insects do con-
siderable damage to the tips of flower stems,
young foliage and flower buds, very often
rendering the first opening flowers useless.
Treat in the same way as greenfly.
Earwigs attack and eat young fohage, but are
more destructive to flowers, conceaHng them-
selves at the base of the petals vipon which they
feed. An excellent trap consists of a hollow
bamboo thi'ust into the soil beside the plant;
the earwigs will secrete themselves in this at
night, where they can be captured and killed
by means of a wire pushed down the hollow of
the bamboo. Tlie old-fashioned flower-pot trap,
filled with dry hay or moss, is also a simple and
good way of catcliing them.
602
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Fungoid Enemies. - ^There are several fungi
wliich attack plants, but mildew is the most
conunon. This coats the leaves of indoor plants
with a grey powder, and they lose their substance
and fall. These fungi, and particularly mildew,
are commonly the result of faulty ventilation
and if the plants are in a draught. They also
come when the air is close and heavy. A spray-
ing of sulphur is the best remedy. It is best to
carry the plants outside for the purpose, as the
solution will stain paint. The fimgoid disease
of chrysanthemums, known as " rust," may be
attacked by the same means.
Caterpillars. - Syringe the plants or bushes
with soap-suds or with parafiSn and soap emul-
sion.
Slugs. - Lime is a valuable deterrent and slugs
detest it in all forms. It is best appUed at
night when the slugs are Ukely to be feeding.
Two applications should be made at intervals
of about twenty minutes, because the slug can
slough his skin and so get rid of one dose of
the hot powder ; but the second catches him at
a hopeless disadvantage and finishes him off.
Lime and water poured on the beds after
dark will thin the slugs down. Soot spread
thickly on the soil round the plants and then
worked in is also good. It must not be used in
a fresh state or it will destroy as many plants
as slugs.
Worms in Pots. - Lime-water will generally
bring them to the surface, when they can bo
removed.
Mice. - In gardens where mice are numerous
all seeds should be thoroughly coated with red
lead prior to sowing, as the mice do not like this.
Several traps ought also to be set in and near
their haunts.
Leaf-mining Grubs. - These are hatched from
eggs deposited by flies between the upper and
lower skins of the leaf. Cinerarias and Mar-
guerites are specially prone to their attack.
Spray the plants with tobacco water or a special
insecticide.
Mealy-Bug. - This is a very offensive insect, as
it clothes the stems and foliage of plants with a
filthy white mass, making them disagreeable to
handle as well as unhealthy. It does not spread
as fast as greenfly, but it is more difficult to
destroy. Treat in the same way as greenfly.
Wire worm is one of the most dreaded of
pests. Wliile some soils are quite free, others
are badly infested with it, and until they are re-
moved no plant is safe. The ordinary remedies
do little good, but trapping may bo tried.
Slices of carrot, turnip, or potato should be
buried about an inch below the surface and left
over-night. If a small wooden skewer is put
in each they will easily bo found and examined
the next morning. When the ground is very
much infested it should bo treated with gas-
lime. When the soil is worked in the autumn
the gas-lime may be sprinkled on it after digging
in the proportion of at least half a pound to a
square yard. The winter rains will wash it in
and kill wireworm and other larvae. As this is
injurious to plant life, notlaing must be planted
for nine months after the application.
GARDEN TOOLS
Tlie amateur gardener will require little
beyond the following : -
Hoe. - One from six to seven inches wide
will be the most suitable for general purposes.
Price about 2s.
Rake, Fork, Hoe and Spade.
Rake. - Choose one about twelve inches wide.
Price 2s. 6d.
Spade. - ^No. 3 is a very convenient size for
general use. Price 3s. to 5s.
Fork. - A large fork will be required for turning
the soil of borders. Price about 3s. - also a
small one for weeding, Is.
Shears, Trowel, Weeding Fork and Pruning Enlfe
TroweL - For planting purposes - Is. to Is. 6d.
Shears. - For cutting edges and trimming
hedges - 3s. to 4s.
Watering- Can. - One of galvanised sheet iron
with a movable rose will be the most useful -
2s. 6d.
Knife. - For pruning - 28.
Hammer and Nails. - For nailing plants to
wall. Hammer Is. 6d., and nails 3d. per lb.
A pair of strong gloves and pair of scissors.
If there is a lawn to keep in order a mowing-
machine will also be required. They may be
HOME GARDENING
603
pxirchased from 25s. upwards, but an effort
should be made to buy one of first-rate quality
as it will give much more satisfaction.
A basket for holding the smaller tools, one or
Garden Basket.
two open baskets for carrying purposes, a reel
of wire, a syringe, a foot-rule, and a broom will
also be foond useful.
Garden tools should always have a place for
themselves where they can be kept in a dry and
clean condition. Many of them can be hung
up, and they will require little space.
Water-cans should be tvirned upside down
when not in use ; and if any tools are not likely
to be used for a while, they should be rubbed
with grease to prevent them rusting.
To Send Flowers by Post. - When cutting
flowers for travelling one must be guided some-
what by weather conditions, but, generally
speaking, they should be cut and placed in
water five or six hours before being packed.
If they are cut in the evening it must be before
the dew begins to fall. Place the flowers in
water and stand them in a dry place. If the
weather is wet, place them in vases or jars in
the house where there is just a trifle of heat.
They will be foimd to dry quickly if treated in
this manner. The packing must be done care-
fully. A flat hamper is the best for the purpose,
as it is light, and moisture does not accvunidate
as it does in boxes. Failing this, a hght wooden
or strong cardboard box can be used. If the
weather is very hot and dry, line the basket
with waxed paper, as this prevents too much
evaporation. If the weather is very damp,
then use very soft tissue paper, and this will
absorb a fair amount of moisture. Do not pack
the blooms too tightly ; on the other hand, if
the basket is not full, it must be padded with
tissue paper to prevent the flowers shaking.
Never use damp cotton wool in packing. The
packet must be marked, " Flowers with care."
Immediately on arrival the flowers should be
unpacked and placed in tepid water slightly
salted.
HOUSEHOLD REPAIRS AND UPHOLSTERY
It is a sovirce of great economy in a household when one of its members shows an aptitude for execut-
ing simple home repairs, and can also t\im her hand to upholstery work and carpentry. Not only
can the money, which would otherwise have to be expended in hiring workmen to do the various
odd jobs, be saved, but the home upholsterer can add to the beauty of her surroundings by making
pretty curtains and hangings, and fashioning dainty little articles of furniture at a comparatively
small cost. !Many useful hints in regard to home upholstery and repairs are given in this article,
and the various methods of painting, papering, and distempering walls are fully described.
The Household Tool Chest. - It is always
useful to have a certain number of simple tools
ready at hand for doing the various odd jobs
which are required from time to time in every
home. Although small chests ready fitted with
tools can be bought, this is not a plan to be
recommended unless one is prepared to pay a
High price, and even then it will be found that
many of the tools supplied are never required.
feiUlUJlJiVK'n
dr>cc^^
1. Claw nammiT.
2. Upholstery Uammer.
3. Screw -driver.
4. Brog or Bradawl.
6. Glue-pot.
6. Gimlet.
7. rile.
8. Pincers.
9. Foot-rule.
10. Chisel.
11. Tack-lifter.
12. Saw.
It is much better to buy the few necessary tools
of a first-class quality, and with care they will
last for years.
The following will in most ca-ses bo found
useful : -
2 Hammers - one strong and heavy and the
other small and light for upholstery or light
carpentry.
1 Screw-driver. 1 Gimlet.
1 Saw. 1 Bradawl or Brog.
1 Pair pincers. 1 Glue-pot.
1 Tack-lifter. 1 File.
1 Foot-rule. A strong knife.
] Chisel.
Also an assortment of tacks, nails, screws,
hooks, &c., suitable for the purpose in hand,
which can be bought as occasion arises, A
nail-box should have different divisions in which
the various kinds of nails can be kept separately.
Tools must be kept carefully or they will bj
unfit for good work. They must be protected
from rust, and if they are not likely to be used
for some time they should be rubbed over with
a little grease.
To Prepare Glue. - Break some glue into
small pieces and put it into the inner part of
the glue-pot x^nth cold water to cover it. Allow
this to soak some time and then pour of? any
superfluous water. Then half fill the outer
vessel \i'ith water, place the double pot at the
side of the fire, and allow the glue to melt gradu-
ally, stirring occasionally with a stick. The
glue must be appUod with a brush or with a
small pad made by tying a piece of flannel on
to the end of a stick.
TO PAPER A ROOM
This is not a very difficult matter unless the
room is a very lofty one. Like all other work
it requires practice before it can be done very skil-
fully, and the amateur would bo wise to try her
'prentice hand on an attic or small room before
she attempts to paper one of more importance.
Now wall-paper must never be put on the top
of old, as this is most unhygienic. So the first
step to take is to strip the wall of its old covering.
Take a pail of hot water and a largo white-wash
HOUSEHOLD REPAIRS AND UPHOLSTERY
605
brush and go over the wall with this, soaking the
paper well. Allow the damp to soak in, and then
scrape the paper off with an old knife or a piece
of slate. If there are any holes in the plaster,
fill these up with plaster of Paris made into
a paste with water or size, or paste a piece
of white paper over them. Next wash the
wall over with a coating of weak size, and
when this is dry the wall will be ready for
papering.
Size is a jelly-like substance (8d. per lb.),
generally used in the proportion of one pound
to one gallon of water. This must be melted
slowly over the fire and kept warm while
in use.
Wall-papers are usually twenty-one inches
wide, and are sold in lengths of twelve yards, so
it will not be difficult to calculate the quantity
required. If a patterned paper is chosen, an
extra allowance must be made for matching
the pattern on the vai'ious strips, but the amateur
should choose either a plain or a striped paper
in order to avoid this extra trouble of match-
ing the pieces. Cheap wall-papers can be bought
from 6d. to Is. per piece, and, of course, there are
many at a much higher price.
In addition to the paper, the following will be
required : a pair of large scissors, a pail for
paste, a paste brush, one or two soft dusters, or
another diy brush for smoothing on the paper,
and some good paste.
To make the paste : -
Take one pound of flour and mix it to a smooth
paste with cold wat'^>' ; then add more water
until the mixture is of a creamy consistency.
Boil this over the fire in a saucepan and add
a little size or glue which will make the paste
more tenacious. It is a good plan also to add a
little alum (one and a half ounces), as this will
prevent the paste from turning sour. The
paste should be of the consistency of gruel when
ready.
The paper must be cut in lengths according
to the different parts of the room it has to cover,
making it two inches longer than the actual
measurements in every case. Then trim off the
margins close to the pattern on one side and
leave half aii inch on the other. The pasting
must either be done on a kitchen-table, or on
newspapers spread on the floor. Paste one piece
at a time, putting weights on one end of the
paper if it is inclined to roll up. Be careful to
paste all smoothly, and pay particular attention
to the edges. Thin paper may bo hung at once ;
a thicker make should lie for two or three minutes
to soften it, as it will then be less Ukely to tear
in the lifting. When carrying the paper to the
wall loop up the lower end of the paper with the
two pasted sides together to prevent it from
catching on anything. Then place one end
to the top of the moulding or ceiling, and the
left-hand edge to the corner line, cutting of? any
unevenness if necessary. When these two edges
are well in position press the surface to the wall
in every part with a duster or clean dry brush,
first down the middle and then outwards to the
sides. Avoid any rubbing which might spoil the
colour of the paper. Unfold the lower part of
the paper, and continue it right down to the top
of the skirting-board length, where any surplus
must be cut off. A few wrinkles and bhsters
may appear at first, but these will disappear
when the paper dries and contracts. Place the
next strip of paper so that its trimmed edge
covers the margin of the first strip. It is always
best to make two cut edges meet at the corners.
Short pieces above doors and windows must be
neatly fitted, and if there are any irregular parts
to be covered use plenty of paste, as this will
soften the paper and enable it to be moulded
into any shape.
DISTEMPERING
This is painting with whitening and size mixed
to a paste with water, and some coloiu-ing matter
added. It is generally applied to plaster.
When used in a natural wliite colour it is called
white -washi ng.
To Prepare White- wash. - Take six pounds of
whitening (cost about 3d.), put it into a clean
pail, cover it with water ; let it stand twenty-
four hours and pour the water off. This may be
repeated several times if the wash is desired very
white, but for ordinary purposes once is suffi-
cient. Then add half a pound size dissolved in
half a gallon of hot water and mix all to a creamy
consistency. Add also one table-spoonful of
powdered alum and enough washing blue to
make it a natural white colour. Strain the wash
and use when cold : it should be almost hke a
jelly and sUghtly sticky. It must be kept well
mixed when in use. The above quantities will
be sufficient to white-wash a small room or a
good-sized ceiling.
Coloured Distemper is made by adding some
colouring pigment to the above white-wash, such
as yellow ochre for a cream tint, yellow oclire
and black for stone colour, vermihon or Venetian
red for pink, indigo for blue, and so on. These
colours can be bought at any colour shop, and
must be mixed smoothly with a little water
before adding them to the wash. Add a very
small quantity at a time, and then test the colour
on a piece of paper. It must bo remembered
that the colour will look very much deeper in
the pail than it will when dry on the wall.
Patent preparations can now be bought which
will save the amateur the trouble of mixing the
distemper, and these are quite inexpensive and
easy to use. Full directions aie given with
each.
If the distemper is not to be used at once, a
little Water should be poured on tlie top to
prevent a skin forming. It must always be well
stirred up before use.
606
THE WOMAls^'S BOOK
To Distemper a Wall. - ^The dust miist first be
brushed ofE and the wall then washed over with
clean warm water and a briish. The water
must be changed as soon as it becomes dirty.
Then give the walls a coating of tliin size and
let them dry. If there are any cracks or holes,
they must be filled up with plaster of Paris and
whitening made into a paste with water and
size, using one part pleister of Paris to three
parts wliitoning.
For applying the wash use a good distemper
brush, which will cost about 63. Commence at
the top of the wall and work downwards with
even strokes backwards and forwards. Too
much wash must not be taken up at one time or
there will be splashing, and the work must be
done as quickly and expeditiously as possible.
The brush ought only to be put into the dis-
temper half-way up its bristles, and then the
svuplus should be pressed out before applying
Distemper Brush.
the brush to the wall. Doors and windows
should be kept shut while this work is being
done to prevent the wash drying too quickly
and looking patchy. When finished, a ciirrent
of air may be allowed to pass through the room.
To White-wash a Celling. - This can only be
done after considerable practice, and unless the
ceiling is small and low the work should scaxcely
be attempted by a woman, as it means too much
climbing about on steps and stretching of the
arms and body. The ceihng must be prepared
first, in the same way as a wall, by washing and
then applying a coat of thin size. The white-
wash should be put on in very even strokes along
the length of the ceiling, the brush being worked
evenly backwards and forwards. White-wash
dries so quickly that unless it is applied quickly
the work will have a patchy appearance.
PAINTING AND ENAMELLING WOOD
This work is very much simplified nowadays,
as all colours can bo bought ready prepared,
and it is much better for the amateur not to
attempt mixing the colours herself. Oil and
colour men will supply any colour from about
6d. per pound, and sometimes they will lend a
brush as well, only if painting is done to any
great extent it is much better to possess one's
own brushes. Brushes are expensive articles,
but good work cannot be done without them,
and there is no economy in buying cheap ones.
Fibre brushes, for instance, are sold at a much
lower price than those made of bristles, but
after they have been used a few times the fibres
begin to drop out.
In order to obtain satisfactory results in
painting, the article to be painted must be
thoroughly clean and the surface smooth.
Remove all dust, and wash the surface thor-
oughly with soap and water ; then allow the
wood to dry, and fill up any holes with putty or
cement. If there is any roughness this should
be smoothed down with sand-paper. The
professional painter will very often remove an
old coating of paint before putting on another,
especially if the former is blistered or broken in
any way. This is done by the application of
heat or some stripping fluid. It is Mork that
can scarcely be undertaken by the homo worker,
and in many cases it is not necessary. When
painting new wood a first coat of weak size will
be necessary to prevent the paint soaking into
the wood. The paint must be well stirred with
a piece of stick before commencing and then
appUed with a brush with smooth, steady
strokes. It must not be laid on too thickly,
but well brushed in with the grain of the wood
until no brush mark is visible. Two brushes
are usually required, a small one for the intricate
parts and a larger one for the wider surfaces.
These brushes are called sash tools. The tips
of the brushes only should be put into the paint.
If two coats of paint are required the first must
be allowed to become quite dry before the second
is appHed. New wood requires at least two
coats, and sometimes a coat of varnish is put on
the top.
Enamel Paints which are prepared with varnish
are much used nowadays. They have a very
smooth and glossy appearance when dry. They
are used in the same way as other paints, and are
especially useful in renovating plain wood furni-
ture, water-cans, light wooden articles, &,c.
When paint is not in use it should have a little
water poiu'ed over the surface. This will keep
it liquid and in good condition for future use.
CARE OF PAINT AND VARNISH BRUSHES
Before using a new brush it should be soaked
in water for some hours. This swells the bristles
and renders them less likely to fall out. Paint
brushes that are in constant use should bo kept
in a tin with water or sufficient turpentine to
cover the bristles. When they are finished with
squeeze the paint well out on the edge of the
paint pot, wipe the brushes -with a rag, clean in
turpentine, and then wash with plain soap and
water and put aside to dry. Varnish brushes
should be kept in the varnish while in use and
then cleaned in the same way as paint brushes.
Old paint brushes can be cleaned by soaking
HOUSEHOLD REPAIRS AND UPHOLSTERY
607
them over-night in strong soda-water and then
washing them out thoroughly. The bridles of
the brushes, whether of cord or metal, should not
be allowed to soak in the water.
TO STAIN FLOORS
If it is a border round a room that requires
staining, measure the distance from the wall
all round and make a mark with chalk or a
large-coloured pencil, always remembering to
allow for an inch or two of staining to come
under the carpet on all sides. Then knock
down any nail heads with a hammer and fill
up holes and crevices with a little putty, making
the floor quite even. Sweep the floor over just
before putting on the first coating of stain.
For a simple stain take two ounces of per-
mangaixate of potash in crystals and dissolve
it in one pint of boiling water. Apply this with
a soft pad on the end of a stick, putting it on
the way of the grain. Be careful not to soil the
hands. Allow the first coating to dry, and then
apply a second in the same way until the floor
is dark enough. A floor that is stained for the
first time will require more stain than one that
is just being renewed. Leave the floor to dry,
and then rub over with a flannel dipped in Unseed
oil. Leave again for a day and polish with bees' -
wax and turpentine (see p. 65).
The above is a very simple and inexpensive
staining, but it wiU be found satisfactory.
Ready-prepared stains of various kinds can
also be bought from any colour merchants.
They can be had in difierent shades, but walnut
stain is perhaps the most suitable for a sitting-
room. Some of these stains contain varnish,
others reqmre a coat of varnish put on the top.
The former are on the whole the best to use.
When putting on the stain apply it to one or
two boards only at a time, as it dries very
quickly and is apt to have a marked appearance,
unless each small piece is finished before another
is started. Be careful not to splash the skirting-
board, and if an accident should occur wipe off
the stain at once and wash the board. It is
always better to use two brushes when appljdng
the stain, a small one for painting near the
skirting-board and a larger one for the other
parts. After the staining is finished the floor
should not be walked on for a day or two, and it
should be kept as free from dust as possible.
A plank supported on two footstools may be
placed across the doorway.
TO ENAMEL A BATH
First thoroughly wash the bath with hot
water, soap, and soda to get rid of all grease,
and let it become quite dry. If there are any
rough surfaces, rub them down with fine sand
or glass-paper and brush away any dust this
may make. Then take some good bath enamel
and give the bath its first coating. White,
cream, eau-de-nil, or flesh-coloured enamel may
be used. Allow the enamel to become quite dry,
and smooth it over again with the sand-paper
if necessary. A second coating of the enamel
must then be apphed and allowed to dry as
before. Two coatings are generally sufficient,
but in some cases three may be necessary. It
is very important to let one coating dry before
putting on another, or the work will not be
successful. Some enamel may take one or two
days to dry. When finished fill the bath with
cold water and allow it to remain two days.
This will harden the paint and take away the
smell.
TO MEND CHINA
Broken cliina that is to be used for liquids
or to be frequently washed requires to be
mended with rivets, and this can only be done
by an expert. The rivets will cost 2d. each.
In the case of ornaments the pieces may often
be united with cement, and with care will hold
together for years. The cement may either be
bought ready prepared or can be made at home.
The following are two different methods of
making it : -
(1) Take a little plaster of Paris and mix it to
a creamy paste with beaten white of egg just
before use.
(2) Take half an ounce gima acacia, dissolve
it in water and strain. Add enough plaster of
Paris to make a creamy paste just before use.
Both these cements must only be mixed in
very small quantities as required.
China should be mended as soon as possible
after it is broken ; if allowed to lie about the
fine points or edges get rubbed or broken, and
in consequence the joining will not be so close
and will show more. Wash the broken pieces
very carefully and then make them thoroughly
dry and as warm as the hand can hear by
putting them in the oven or near the fire. Use
as, little cement tis possible - just enough to coat
the two surfaces to be joined, and apply it with a
match or fine piece of stick. Any surplus cement
must be squeezed out and rubbed off at once.
After pressing the two pieces together try to
place the china in such a position that the weight
of the pieces will tend to keep them together.
If it is a plate, for instance, it might be propped
up between two piles of books. Sometimes a
binder is necessary, and an india-rubber band can
be used with good effect. One piece must always
be allowed to dry on before joining another, so
if there axe a number of fragments they might
be joined in pairs one day and the next day
two pairs put together, and so on until all is in
shape.
BURST PIPES OR BOILER
Accidents of tliis kind usually occur sifter
a frost if the water in the pipes heis been
608
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
allowed to freeza Tlio expanding of the water
in freezing breaks the pipe, but it is only when
the thaw comes that the water runs out.
When a leak occurs anj'where the stop-cock
should at once be shut off so as to prevent more
water from k^a\-ing the cistern. It is important,
therefore, to know where the stop-cock is and
also to see that it is kept in a turnable condition.
Every second that is wasted may mean serious
damsige, and on no account must this special
tap become so stiff that it cannot be moved.
Another plan is to flatten the pipe just at the
break and thus check the flow of water. To do
this shp a piece of wood or other resisting sub-
stance between the pipe and the wall and hammer
the pipe sharply on to it. By tliis means the
plaster of the wall need not be injured.
The accident of a burst pipe can generally be
avoided by keeping the house warm enough.
Wliere pipes are exposed to a very cold atmos-
phere it is a good plan to keep a gas jet or a
small lamp burning on frosty nights.
An empty house, where there are no fires,
is the one most Hkely to suffer. In tlus case it
is safer to turn off the water-supply at the main
and to empty the water out of the pipes if
frosty weather is feared.
' A more serious accident still is the bursting
of a kitchen boiler. This is due to the boiler
having run dry and the fire being kept on. If,
on account of frost or any other reason, the hot
water ceases to run, the kitchen fire should at
once be put out.
GAS ESCAPES
An escape of gas may be caused by a break
in the pipe - perhaps the result of a nail having
been driven into it - by a badly-made joint
having broken or given way, or because a screw-
joint has become loose. The usual method of
applying a lighted match or taper in order to
find out the place of escape is a very risky one,
and it is safer to avoid it altogether unless the
escape is a very small one. If it is a big escape
the safest plan is to turn off the gas at the
meter and to allow a good current of air to pass
through the room where the smell occurs. Then
turn on the gas again for a few minutxjs, and you
will no doubt be able to trace the hole quite
readily by the smell or perhaps hear where it
filters through the pipe.
A small hole can always bo mended tempo-
rarily by patching it up \\'ith a good layer of
soap or lard. Another way of stopping the
escape is to flatten the pipe close to the faulty
spot, but this may have the disadvantage of
shutting off the gas from other parts of the
house. If a pipe breaks in any part it may be
temporarily mended by slipping in a piece of
india-rubber tubing over the two ends and
fastening it on with string.
The above are only temporary makeshifts.
and the damaged pipe should be properly
attended to at the earliest possible opportunity.
TO RE-MAKE A WOOL MATTRESS
When a wool mattress becomes slumpy it
should be re-made ; in fact, from a hygienic
point of view this should be done every year.
Take the mattress into an unused room (one
without a carpet is best) and spread it on a sheet
on the floor. Take off the rounds of leather on
the mattress, open one end and empty the wool
on to the sheet. Then have the cover washed,
starched and ironed. Pick the wool apart with
the fingers or with a machine for the purpose.
It is rather a tedious business to do it with the
fingers, and sometimes it is possible to hire
a machine from an upholsterer. The French
housewife generally does this piece of work in
her garden. When ready replace the wool in
the case, keeping the mattress very even, and
sew up as before. For sewing on the rounds
of leather a long needle tlxreaded with twine will
be required.
TO RE-MAKE FEATHER PILLOWS
This should be done periodically when the
covers become soiled. The simplest and tidiest
method is to prepare the new or clean tick first
by rubbing the inside over with bees' -wax or
yellow soap, as this will prevent the points of
the feathers from working through. Then make
an opening in the old pillow the same size as
that in the now tick and sew both openings
together. Shake the feathers from one to the
other, pin the seam before undoing the stitches,
and the old case can be removed and the seam
sewn up without any feathers flying about the
room. Some people turn the feathers into a
bath and wash and dry them before re-
making the pillow, but this is rather a laborious
and unpleasant operation. If the feathers re-
quire special cleaning it is better to send the
pillows to a bedding manufacturer to have them
properly re-made.
TO MAKE BLINDS
The simple blind on a roller is very easily
made by the homo worker. For material there
is considerable choice in self-coloured or printed
linens and hollands. If the blinds are being
made for the front of the house, it is better
to have them all alike, while for back or side-
windows this is not so necessary.
When taking measurements take the length
of the blind and six inches over to allow for
a hem and a piece to go round the roller at tho
top. For the width measure the size of the roller
less half an inch, so that tho blind will be quarter
of an inch narrower than the roller on both
sides. Very often it is possible to buy the
HOUSEHOLD REPAIRS AND UPHOLSTERY
material the exact width required, as the rollers
are generally made in regulation sizes, but, if not,
allowance must be made for a one and three-
quarter inch hem on each side.
It is very important to have a blind cut evenly ;
if badly cut it will pull up and down badly.
Both top and bottom must be cut by the thread,
and all hems must be measured exactly with a
foot-rule or inch-tape, and a small pencil or chalk
mark made where the hem has to come. The
side hems must only be turned over once and
then tacked down ■with herring-bone stitch
(see p. 397). For the bottom hem mark a half-
inch turning and a one and three-quarter inch
hem. The latter will be wide enough to allow
of a lath being slipped in, into winch one end
of the cord is fixed by making a hole through
material and wood.
To fix the blind to the roller put a tack at
each end on the raw edge of the material, turn
the roller round until it is covered with the
material, and then sew on with a needle and
strong cotton. By tliis means the roller is quite
covered and there is little danger of the blind
teaming away.
It is not often that a blind is left perfectly
plain as above ; it is more usual to trim the edge
with a piece of fringe or with some strong
applique lace. When ornamentation of this
kind is added, the blind itself must be cut shorter
to allow for the width of the trimming. Some-
times a piece of lace insertion is let in as well
just above the lath, or fancy-shaped medallions
of the appUqu^ lace.
A MANTELPIECE DRAPERY
Perhaps the simplest way of hiding an ugly
mantelpiece is the somewhat old-fasliioned one
of covering it with a cloth drapery of some sort.
A plain board must first be made to fit on the
top of the mantel-shelf, and this should extend
Drapery for Sitting-room Mantelpiece.
an inch or two beyond the edges all round.
Underneath this shelf should run a thin iron
rod fitted into eyes, and on this rod, curtains are
609
run by means of rings. There is very consider-
able choice of materials for covering, such as serge,
tapestry, silk, or velvet, but care must bo taken
to have it in keeping with the colour scheme of
the room. A border of the material must first
be made wide enough to cover the shelf and to
hang down about a foot on the front and ends.
If the material is light in texture it should be
lined with sateen of the same colour to enable
it to hang properly. A pretty fringe or gimp
will be required to finish oQ the edge. It is
always best to have this border separate from
the board, as it can then be taken off and shaken
when the room is cleaned. If made wide enough
to tuck in between the shelf and the mantelpiece,
there will be no danger of its slipping off. Under-
neath this border should hang curtains made of
the same material and lined if necessary. These
also should be edged with the same gimp or
frmge along the foot and up the front edges.
The curtains must be made vdde enough to cover
the entire fireplace, and if they are fixed to the
rod by means of small rings they can be drawn
backwards and forwards at pleasure. A more
handsome effect can be produced by having the
top border and edges of the curtains prettily
embroidered.
Another Method of Draping a Mantelpiece.-
A board must first be made as above with a
one-inch strip of wood fastened underneath the
front and sides. Cover this tightly with serge,
sateen, or cloth of a colour to match the drapery
and tack it underneath. The covering must be
laid on very smoothly, the straight of the
material running straight across the board.
Commence tacking at the centre and work
graduaUy towards the ends. If any wrinkles
should appear they can generally be removed
by damping the place and pressing with a hot
iron. A valance is put on beneath this and
fixed to the under-strip of wood. This can be
of an ornamental character ; a piece of pretty
silk or wool tapestry, or some hand embroidery
is the most suitable. A piece of buckram
stiffening should first be put on ; take the
measurements carefully and make it two inches
less in depth than the outer valance. Cover
the buckram on both sides with tliin sateen
and tack it on to the strip of wood beneath the
mantel-board. The top valance must also be
hned with silk or sateen and finished along the
edge with cord or fringe ; fasten this on the top
of the buckram background, and finish all neatly
with an edging of gimp and studs or fancv nails.
If curtains are required they can be fitted up
in the same way as for the other mantelpiece
border (see above).
When a bedroom mantelpiece requires cover-
ing, it is a good plan to make the drapery of
some cotton material wliich can easily be washed,
such as printed linen or cotton. The board'
might be tightly covered as above with a
dark-coloured sateen and a buckram stiffening
2q
610
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
for the valance of the eamo colour below.
The valance might then consLst of a box-
pleated flounce of the material about twelve
inches in depth, and then curtains, if they are
Mantelpiece Drapery for a Bedroom-board covered with
dark satin ; drapery made of chintz or printed linen
with box-pleated valance ; cm-tains edged with a narrow
gimp.
required, should be simply hemmed or finished
with a narrow gimp which can be easily washed.
HOW TO LAY LINOLEUM
Except in the case of a large room it is not
a very difficult matter to lay a floor with
linoleum. If the room is very large and the
linoleum thick, it will be better to have the
work done by expert workmen ; in fact, m most
cases when the linoleum is bought new the
laving will be done free of charge. StiU a few
liints for the Ughter pieces of work may be
found useful.
First place the linole\im on the floor close to
one of the skirting -boards. If it does not fit
perfectly close any unevenness mtist be trimmed
off with a knife. A very sharp hook-knife is
the best for the purpose, as it will not shp out
of position so easily as an ordinary knife. Fasten
the linoleum in position with a few half-inch
brads. If more than one width of material is
required for covering, another strip must be
joined to the first one, and if a patterned
linoleum is being used care must be taken to
match the pattern before cutting. When the
edges are not exactly even, overlap one a little
and trim off the surplus material with a knife. If
the knife is held with the blade slanting towards
the edge of the linoleum, this will give a sUghtly
rounded edge which will fit all the more closely.
Unless the edges of the joins are made to meet
very exactly, water will soak tlirough when
washing is being done and cause the Unoleum
to shrink and rot. At the same time the two
edges of a join must not bo so tight that they
require forcing down, as this would cause blisters.
Fix the edcee of the join with brads, driving
them in as close to the edge as possible without
tearing the linoleum, and put them in pair.s, one
facing the other. If there is any likelihood of
the floor being damp, tarred paper should be
laid beneath the linoleum.
A BOOT CUPBOARD
A very neat and easily -made boot cupboard
can be manufactured out of an empty orange-
box, which can generally be procured from a
grocer without any trouble. By setting the case
on end the division in it will form the shelves.
First tighten all the joins by driving in a few
small nails or strong tacks, and cover over the
heads of these with a little putty. Then take
a very hard brush and brush the wood well in
order to remove all sawdust and splinters. Line
the inside with some stout wall-paper, leather
paper, or ordinary brown paper fixed on with
strong paste or glue. Allow this to dry, and
then cover the outside with some pretty chintz
or self-coloured sateen, fixing it in position with
small tacks or brads. Or, the wood on the out-
side may be smoothed over with glass paper
and painted with two coats of Aspinal's enamel.
A ciu-tain must then be made to cover the
front. This may either be of chintz to match
the outside or a self-coloured serge to match
the paint or sateen with which the outside is
covered. About a yard of material 50 inches
wide will be required, and 2^ yards of baU
fringe or other edging. Make a deep hem at
the foot and sew the trimming all round with
the exception of the top. Turn in the top to
the required length, and fix it to the top of the
cupboard with smaU brass-headed nails, arrang-
ing the material in box-pleats. Or, make a
casing, draw up the curtain to the correct width
with strong string or cord, and then fix it in
position.
THE MAKING OF CURTAINS
The question of material for curtains in the
various rooms has already been discussed under
House Furnishing, the first section of this book,
but a few hints for making may be useful for
the novice who would Uke to make her own
draperies.
Serge or Tapestry Curtains.- When measuring
for a pair of curtains take the length from the
curtain pole to the floor of the room plus six
inches to allow for turnings, top heading, and a
small amount for resting on the floor or looping
up When measuring for the fringe or other
trimming take the length round the curtain
with the exception of the top, plus half a yard
to allow for turnings and easing on when sewing.
Select material of from one and a half to two
yards wide so as to avoid having a seam down
the length of the curtains. , , ,^ t
Commence by cutting the top and bottom ot
HOUSEHOLD REPAIRS AND UPHOLSTERY
611
the material perfectly even, because unless this
is done the curtains will not hang well. Then
lay a half-inch turning on the right side and
along the bottom and two sides of the curtains.
Tack or baste the fringe on to this turning,
easing it on very slightly to prevent any dragging
of the material, and stitch on with the machine.
Two rows of stitching will likely be required to
make the heading of the fringe lie flat, one
along the outer and another along the inner
edge. Some fringes have a double heading, be-
tween which the edges of the curtain can be
slipped. In this case a turning on the material
would not be required. If a fancy border or
braiding is used instead of fringe this would be
put on in the same way, easing it on very sHghtly
Via. 1.- Serge or Tapestry Curtains- with fancy border
stitched on, two rows of drawings at top with small
heading, hoolied on to curtain pole.
and then stitching it along the two edges. The
trimming should be put an inch from the edge
at the sides and from two to three inches from
the edge at the foot, the turning on the material
being made the necessary width. Care must be
taken to turn ths corners very neatly. Tack-
ing before sewing is very important. When eco-
nomy has to be studied one side only of the
curtains need be trimmed, the side next the
wall being left plain with its selvedge edge.
To finish the top of the curtains, turn over
two inches of the material on the wrong side
and make two rows of Hrawlugs a Uttle way
from the top and about half an inch apart.
Run a cord or piece of strong string through
this and draw up the curtain to the width
required. Tack a piece of upholstery tape over
the drawings, arranging the fulness evenly,
and then stitch along both edges with the
machine. Finish off neatly with a needle
and cotton and be careful to secure the ends
of the drawing string. The upholstery tape
should be the same colour as the curtains if
possible, also the sewing cotton with which it
is stitched.
Iron those parts of the curtain which require
pressing, such as the edges and heading, and
then sew curtain hooks on to the upholstery
tape at intervals of about three inches apart or
according to the number of rings on the curtain
poles (fig. 1).
Curtains are sometimes hned if the material
of which they are made is very thin or a specially
heavy ciirtain is required. SeK-coloured sateen
to match the curtains or a special hriing cash-
mere is very good for the purpose. The lining
should be tacked on all round, leaving it a Uttle
full to prevent dragging, and then stitched in
position at the same time as the fringe.
Linen or Cotton Curtains. - These are suitable
for a bedroom, as they can so easily be washed.
They can be made in a variety of ways. The
simplest is to finish them off with a hem all
round, a three or four -inch hem at the foot,
and a one or one and a half inch hem at the
sides. Or they may be trimmed with a cotton
fringe or fancy edging in the same way as serge
curtains.
If a fancy cretonne or printed linen is being
used, a nice finish is a border or plain sateen
in a pretty contrasting colour, or if the curtains
are hned with sateen this might be brought
FlO. 2.- Plain Curtain with top tunuHl over.
over to the right side to form a border. This
would require to be carefully arranged and well
tacked before any stitching is done.
612
The top of cotton curtains may bo finished in
the same way as those made of serge, or when
thev are light in weight, rings which can be
slipped over a narrow brass rod might be used
instead of hooks. If the curtains are made of
some Ught-coloured material which reqmres
frequent washing, they should be finished at
the top in the same way as muslin or lace cur-
tains, as they will iron more easily if the drawmgs
can be undone. . j. c -^u +;,"
A valance is sometimes used to finish the
curtains at the top. The simplest way of
making this is to allow an extra twelve inches
when cutting the length of the curtains and to
turn this piece over at the top before putting
in the runnings. A fancy border stitched along
this a few inches from the edge wiU make an
appropriate finish (fig. 2). Another method of
putting on the valance is to cut a separate piece
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
with ball fringe and a pretty gimp or other
trimming to match the curtains.
Very careful measurements must be taken
when cutting the buckram shape in order to
get a straight edge, as any unovenness would bo
very noticeable. Instead of the straight pelmet,
a shaped piece, as shown in fig. 4, might be made.
no. 3._Chintz Curtains-edged all round with hall fringe
Drawn valance stretching across window, also edgea
with ball fringe.
and to arrange it right across the window (fig. 3).
This may either be drawn or box-pleated. If
drawn, allow half as much again as the width
of the window for the length of the valance ; it
box-pleated, twice the width of the window will
be required. A valance is usually made from
twelve to fourteen inches deep and is fimshed
along the foot with a ball fringe or trunming
to match the curtain. .
Instead of a valance a stiffly-shaped piece,
called a pelmet, is sometimes used to cover the
top of the curtains. This is a little more diffi-
cult to make, but still, unless the wnndow is a
very large one, it is within the scope of the
home worker. A piece of stiff buckram, from
eight to ten inches deep and the length of the
width of the vdndow, must first be cut, then
covered very smoothly with a piece of the cur-
tain material and lined at the back with self-
coloured sateen. The edge may be fimshed
Fio. 4.- Top of Curtains covered with a shaped Pelmet.
but this is a Httle more troublesome to make
and should only be attempted by an experienced
worker. z? • i, j
Lace and Muslin Curtains should be fimshed
on the top by turning them down about two
and a half inches and stitching a broad tape
along the line. A narrow tape should then be
run through this casing and secured at one
end. This can then be di-awn up to the width
required, and will be easily undone when the cur-
tains require washing. Safety-pins with h joks
attached should be used for fixing the curtains
to the rings on the curtain pole.
Madras or plain muslin curtains should be
made very full, as they will hang more grace-
fully. They must also be cut consideraoiy
longer than stuff curtains to allow for shrinkage
in the washing. The edge can be finished with
baU fringe, or sometimes a frill of the material
is preferred. It is possible to buy the friUed
material by the yard, or the frill can be made
and sewn on to the curtain musUn. When
cutting the frill allow double the length of the
curtain to be trimmed for length and niake the
strips from four to five inches wide. Join the
required number of strips together and make a
narrow hem along one side. Turn down the
other edge, draw it up with a strong cotton
and sew it to the edge of the curtain, arranging
the fulness evenly.
Casement Curtains.- In many of the modern
houses ca.sement curtains take the place of blinds.
They should be made very simply of one of the
special cloths sold for the purpose. Casement
cloth is to be had in cotton, hnen. silk, and
woollen materials, and in a variety of colours
and patterns. Cream colour is perhaps the most
suitable. They may either be gathered into i^
HOUSEHOLD REPAIRS AND UPHOLSTERY
613
heading and rings attached for running on a
brass rod, or the rod may be passed through a
casing at the top and the rings cUspensed vrith.
The former method is, however, better if the
curtains are to be drawn backwards and for-
wards. These casement curtains are arranged
in different ways and made different lengths
according to the style of window under treat-
ment. When the window is divided with a
cross frame two pairs of curtains are used, one
to cover the upper and the other the lower sash
of the window. Or, again, they can be made the
full length of the window, two or three pairs
perhaps being required for a casement-shaped
window. Some windows, again, have long case-
ment curtains at the side and short ones as well
to cover the windows. If the window-sill is
broad the curtains should just touch it, but if
narrow they might be brought a few inches
below. The curtains can either be finished
round the edges with a plain one and a half inch
hem or with a hem-stitched border. They should
always hang straight and never be looped up.
The woman who is clever with her needle can
also make them look more artistic with some
pretty embroiderj'-, an open-work embroidery
being particularly suitable for art-linen cur-
tains. A Httle work of this kind will add very
much to the charm of the curtains. Another
pretty method of decorating casement curtains
is by means of a stencil design. Tliis
is particularly suitable for Utile tussore or
shantung silk curtains which are so much in
fashion at present. I* must be borne in mind,
however, that stencil work will not wash well, and
that it wiU mean dry cleaning each time the
curtains require renewing, if the colours are to be
preserved.
Stencil plates can be bought made of thin
iron or zinc, and these can, of course, be used over
Small Casement Curtain with Stencil Design.
and over again, or a suitable design can first
be drawn and then cut out of thin card-board
or stiff manilla or wax paper. Various transfer
designs can be used for the purpose : a con-
ventional pattern generally looks best. Spread
a sheet of clean blotting-paper on a drawing-
board, place the silk over this and the paper
design on the top, and fix all very evenly in
position with drawing-pins. Care must be
taken to fix the stencil qmte firmly. Stencil
paint is then applied with a small brush,
the choice of colours being a matter of taste.
Allow the paint to dry, and then carefully remove
the design. The pattern is sometimes outlined
with a fine embroidery stitch to give it a more
finished appearance. Stencil paints or dyes are
sold in small tubes and must be diluted with
water ; the ordinary paints are not suitable for
the work.
TO RE-UPHOLSTER A CHAIR
Small chairs sire not very difficult to re-
upholster, and an amateur might quite weU
attempt one that is simple in form.
Verj' often the cover of a chair becomes dirty
or worn, and it has to be hidden out of sight
for this reason and because it means consider-
able expense to have it sent away to be re-made.
Loose covers are not much used nowadays, and,
at the best, they soon get out of order and
become shabby looking. JIany pretty materials
can, however, be bought for covering the seats
of chairs. An oddment of good tapestry can
often be picked up very cheaply at a sale, and
notliing wears better or, what is better still,
some very good art linen or serge worked with
a pretty design can be used. The clever em-
broiderer will very soon transform an ugly set
of chairs - chairs in a bedroom, for instance -
and make them match the colour scheme of
the room and look quite artistic.
The old cover must first be taken off the cheiir
that is to be covered, as it is never a good plan
to put a cover over anything that is dirty, a
pair of pincers or a small tack-lifter being used
to take out the small nails that fasten the
cover. At the same time attention should be
paid to the manner in wliich the covering has
been fixed, as this will be a guide for attaching
the fresh one. The old cover can then be used
as a pattern for cutting out the fresh material.
Wlien using a patterned material be careful to
centre the pattern when cutting the cover,
otherwise it will look one-sided. If the stuffing
of the chair has become flattened tlirough long
use, remove the under cover, which is generally
made of linen or cotton, tease out the hair, and
put a layer of fresh hair on the top in order
to raise any hollow places. A layer of sheet
wadding might also bo put over the hair ; it will
make the top of the seat fuller and softer.
Then cover this with a piece of fresh linen or
caUco. Next place the new cover on the top,
centre the back and front, and fix them tempo-
rarily with small tacks. Do the same at the
sides, and then tighten gradually all the way
614
round, fixing the material in position with very
small headless tacks. Always work from the
centre of each side towards the corners. Trim
off any superfluo\as material, and then cover the
edges with a narrow gimp fastened on with
brass-headed nails or coloured studs.
When the webbing supports of a chair give
way, it will be necessary to take out the entire
seat and to fix new webbing. This must be
bought from an upholsterer's, and the best and
strongest quality obtained. First remove the
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
old webbing, fix on one end of the new on
the old marks with small clout nails or strong
tacks, then stretch well and nail down tho
second end before cutting. Nail on the other
pieces in the same way, and when putting in
the cross-way pieces, interlace them, as tins will
crive greater strength and elasticity. A piece of
new Hessian sacking should come next to cover
the webbing, and then the hair for the seat
should be teased out and replaced and the
covers fixed on as above.
CAREERS FOR WOMEN
In olden times the careers open to women were few ; nowadays the professions which have not
opened their gates to the woman worker are fewer still. The natural result of this extension of the
field of work for women is that in all careers in which a woman may take part a high standard of
proficiency is exacted. There is no room for the untrained worker. This is only just, for if women
are to work side by side with men in fields of labour which at one time were open to men only, it
stands to reason that they should be as fully equipped as the men workers.
This is essentially an age of specialisation, and sensible parents are beginning to realise the fact
that girls nowadays as well as boys require to have their capabilities tested at the age when they
begin to show in what direction their taleiits he, and to have their careers marked out for them, for
whether a girl marries or not it is highly desirable that she should be able to take her place in the
ranks of women workers should there ever arise the need for her to do so.
In the following articles an attempt has been made to put before parents, in as clear and concise
a manner as possible, the many vocations for which, by careful training, a girl may be fitted, together
with details in regard to cost of training, necessary qualifications, and, last but not least, the prospects
offered in each career.
THE TEACHING PROFESSION
With the rapid strides made in education
within recent years a much higher degree of
efficiency is exacted from those who adopt the
teaching profession. Nowadays there is no
room for the inefficient and the ill-equipped
teacher ; indeed, in many cases the supply of
trained and experienced teachers exceeds the
demand, and there are many branches of the
profession that are perilously near to being over-
crowded. The fact remains, however, that
there is always room for really gifted teachers.
There are many women who, in spit" of all their
knowledge, lack the power of being able to im-
part this knowledge to others. It should be
remembered that there are a number of attri-
butes beyond mere learning which ai'e essential
to a successful teacher. Tlie gift of imparting
knowledge, the ability to win the sympathy and
respect of pupils, the power of maintaining
discipline, and, last but not least, a strict sense
of justice - all are necessary for the teacher who
would follow her profession with success, what-
ever branch of teaching she may choose to adopt.
PUBLIC SCHOOL TEACHING
Tliis, as applied to women teachers, may be
divided into two branches : -
(1) Teaching in the Elementary and Secondary
Schools under Local Authorities.
(2) Teaching in the High Schools.
Elementary School Teaching. - For women
elementary school teaching offers good prospects.
and has this particular advantage that the
training is very cheap, and under the new regula-
tions is such that will fit students for many
pursuits other than teaching if they find this
unsuitable or distasteful to them. In all cases
special training, generally extending over two
years, must be taken at a recognised training
college, but before entering a college the Pre-
liminary Examination of the Board of Education,
or its equivalent, must be passed. It will thus
be seen that a certain amount of preliminary
training is necessary. This may be taken in
several ways. A girl whose parents are in good
circumstances may follow her education in the
ordinary way at a school or college where she
may be prepared for the examination. The
daughter of parents of limited means, however,
will be wise to avail herself of the manj^ facilities
for cheap training put within her reach by the
Board of Education.
For the girl so situated, the first step to be
taken after attaining the age of sixteen is to get
an appointment as bursar, or an engagement as
pupil teacher, or recognition as student teacher.
The candidate in each of these cases must be
suitable in respect of character, health, and
freedom from personal defects, such as lameness
or deafness.
Bursars. - A bursar is a girl attending full time
at an efficient training school who intends to
become a teacher in an elementary school, and
who receives from the School Authority, aided
by the Board of Education, such financial help
615
616
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
as will enable her to continue her education for
a year, aftor reacliing the age of sixteen or
seventeen, at the same school where slie lias been
receiving continuous instriiction for the three
years immediately before her application for a
bursarship. The buisar must receive continu-
ous and suitable instruction throughout the year
of her bursarship, and within two years of her
appointment as bursar must enter for the
" Preliminary Examination for the Certificate."
The bursar must subsequently either enter a
training college or serve for a year as student
teacher in a pubUc elementary school.
Pupil Teachers receive training in teaching
as pupil teachers in elementary schools, together
with instruct ion approved by the Board. Except
in rural districts, no girl may be a pupil teacher
before the age of sixteen, and as a rule must serve
two years. In rural districts girls may, with the
consent of the Board of Education, be engaged
for three years from the age of fifteen. To
enable girls who wish to qualify for elemen-
tary school teaching to become pupil teachers,
provision heis been made for their education and
partial maintenance by most of the Education
Committees of our large towns. The scholar-
ships they offer give free education for two years
either in special classes, or, more often, in secon-
dary schools, and a maintenance grant of from
£10 to £20.
Candidates must be suitable in respect of
character, health, and freedom from personal
defects. Tliose candidates who hold one of the
certificates above mentioned, or feel thej' could
pass the special and perhaps easier examination
of the Board, should send in their names to the
authorities of the elementary school in which
they wish to serve early in June, as the usual
date for admission is August, and the names of
candidates must be submitted not later than
July 1st. Those who hold training scholarships
will have all the necessary arrangements made
for thom.
Student Teachers. - A student teacher is one
who is employed in a public elementary school
during not more than eight meetings in any one
week for the purpose of gaining practical ex-
perience in the art of teaching, together with such
further general education which may be avail-
able. To obtain recognition as a student teacher
on the staff of a school the candidate must,
immediately before her application for such
recognition, have been a bursar, or have been
in attendance for not less than three years at an
efficient secondary school. If she has not been a
bursar, she must be over seventeen years of age
and have passed the Preliminary Examination
for the certificate, or some other examination
accepted by the Board of Education as a qualifi-
cation for admission to a training college.
The above-mentioned methods of preparatory
training for elementary teachers before they take
the preliminary examination which renders them
eligible to enter a training college will commend
themselves especially to those of Umited income,
as grants are made by the Board of Education
in respect of each recognised pupil teacher to
the elementary school at whicli they are trained.
Pupil teachers also receive small salaries varying
in accordance with the arrangements made by
the different authorities. Tlie pupils, however,
whose parents are in better circumstances and
who have prepared for the Prchminary Examina-
tion as ordinary scholars at an ordinary school,
will find it a great advantage to engage in ele-
mentary school teaching for a few months before
taking up their training at a college, as valuable
experience is always gained in this way.
Preliminary Examination. - This examination
is open to pupil teachers and bursars who have
completed their apprenticeship or entered on the
last year, and to all others who have not taken
preliminary training as pupil teachers or bursars
who are over eighteen years of age. Candidates
who pass this examination are now eligible to
enter a training college where they will be pre-
pared for the final teachers' examination ; or if
they do not intend to work for the teacher's
certificate, they will be eligible for employment
in elementary schools as uncertificated teachers.
Training Colleges are of two kinds - Residential
and Day. Tliere are thirty-four Residential
Colleges for women in England and Wales, and
twelve Day Training Colleges. There are also
fifteen Day Colleges where both men and women
may receive their training. The course in a
training college usually extends over two years,
but those who wish to work for a degree must
take a three years' course. A student who holds
a degree or who has passed some other examina-
tion recognised by the Board of Education may
enter a students' training college for one year.
At those day colleges, which are closely attached
to a university, the course lasts three years, and
is so arranged that at the end of it students
may become graduates of the university. This,
however, entails very heavy work, as the student
has not only to prepare for her degree, but
must at the same time receive her professional
training.
Fees. - The fees paid at training colleges are
small, the fee at a residential college for a two
years' course being as a rule £20 to £30. This
covers both tuition, board, lodging, washing, and
medical attendance. Books cost £5 or £6, and
there are usually small charges made for sports,
papers, magazines, &c. In Roman Catholic
colleges the fees are lower. At a day college
the usual tuition fee is £10 a year. Day students
receive a maintenance grant from the Govern-
ment of £20 a year. A course of training for
day students is also provided at many of the
University Colleges, £10 a year being the average
fee.
A graduate in arts or science of any university
in the British Empire may be recognised as a
CAREERS FOR WOMEN
617
certificated teacher, provided she holds a certifi-
cate of proficiency in the theory and practice of
teaching.
Prospects. - Students who have obtained their
certificates at the end of their training are
quaUfied teachers, and are eligible for posts in
elementary schools, training colleges, and pupil
teacher centres. Salaries vary considerably
with the locality. One of the highest scales
of salary in the country is as follows : -
Trained Assistant IMistress
Untrained but Certificated
Head IMistress ....
£85 to £125
75 to 125
120 to 265
Head Assistants get fron £10 to £15 more than
ordinary assistants. The salary of the Head
Mistress depends upon her length of service and
the size of the school.
Secondary Schools. - In order to qualify a.s
teacher in a secondary school, a candidate
must have a degree or its equivalent, and after
graduation must go tlu-ough a course of special
professional training in accordance with the
regulations of the Board. The special training
must extend over a j'ear at least.
The following qualifications are accepted as
equivalent to a degree : A Tripos Certificate of
the University of Cambridge, provided that the
examination is the one that would, if taken by
a man, entitle him to a degree under the usual
conditions without further conditions, or an
Oxford diploma, which is one, if taken by a man,
that would entitlp him to a degree ; also a certifi-
cate showing that she had passed the second Pubhc
Examination of the University of Oxford, or
that she has obtained in the Examination in
Modern Languages an honours certificate of the
Oxford or Cambridge Higher Locals, provided
they include the subjects required by the Board.
Diplomas or certificates in the theory and
practice of teaching in secondary schools are
now granted by the following Universities :
Oxford, Cambridge, London, Durham, Liverpool,
Leeds, Wales, Edinburgh, St. Andrews, Aberdeen,
Glasgow, Dublin, and by the College of Pre-
ceptors and the National Froebel Union.
Training. - Grants of £100 are now made by
the Board of Education under certain conditions
to training colleges in rcsuect of every group
of five recognised students who have completed
a course of training during each year ending
31st of July. Courses of training for the teachers
of secondary schools are provided at many
universities or institutions, including the follow-
ing : University of Oxford, Cambridge Training
College for Women, at the Universities of
Birmingham, Dui'ham, Manchester, Liverpool,
Leeds ; at the University Colleges of Bangor,
Cardiff, Aberystwyth ; at the following in-
stitutions in London : Bedford College, Baker
Street ; Maria Gray College, Brondesbury ;
Mary Datchelor College, Camberwell ; Catholic
Training College, Cavendish Square ; London
Day Training College ; Clapham High School ;
Froebel Institution; Cheltenham College, Chelten-
ham, and also at St. George's Training College,
Edinburgh.
Prospects. - The commencing salary of a
teacher in a secondary school in London is
usually £120, rising in some cases to £250 ;
head mistresses receive from £300 to £600.
Salaries vary according to locaUty and size of
school. Lower salaries are as a rule given in
the provinces.
High School Teaching. - The branch of pubhc
school teaching which doubtless appeals the
most to gentlewomen is that of teaching in the
high schools. The candidate for a post of the
kind should remember that a high standard
of proficiency is exacted. A certain specified
course of training must be followed which is
necessarily expensive, and even then, unless she
has great ability as a teacher, competition for
a high school post is so keen that, however high
her attainments, she will be superseded by others
who excel in the actual art of teaching.
The intending high school teacher will find
that skill in sports and outdoor games will be
counted not the least among her acquirements.
Games are nowadays a typical feature of the
curriculum of all our girls' schools, and in the
choice of the younger form mistresses especially,
preference -s often given to the candidate who is
a good organiser, or an expert player of the most
popular games in which girls may participate.
Not the least pleasant side of the life of the
high schosl teacher is to be found in the friend-
ships which she will form among her pupils and
their parents. Although the scholars will be
drawn from many social grades, they will be
mostly of a class with which a gentlewoman may
mix socially, and for this reason the life of a
high school teacher will have a greater appeal
for the woman of refinement than the hfe of a
teacher in a pubhc elementary or secondtiry
school.
Prospects. - Tlie initial salary for assistant
mistresses varies in manj' locaUties. The
average commencing salary is £100, in London
£120, rising at the rate of £10 to £220 and
sometimes to £250. The salaries of head
mistresses of the larger schools range from £180
to £300 and upwards in accordance with the
locaUty and the size of the school.
Training. - Tliis will extend over at least four
years, as a high school mistress must have a
degree or its equivalent ; three of the four years
will be taken up in preparation for the degree.
^Vllen this has been obtained she must take a
year's training in the art of teaching and work
for her teacher's diploma. The cost of training
will average about £100 a year for a resident
student. If the student hves near one of the
training colleges, however, the cost will be
materially reduced, and only the tuition and
examination fees vsill have to be peud. Then
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
618
will follow the coat of tlio year's training for tho
teacher's diploma. Tliis may be taken at the
colleges already mentioned in connection with
secondary schools. The cost of training for an
out student will average from £20 to £25 a year.
Teachers in Scotland- In Scotland the training
of elementary and secondary school teachers
is directed by the Provincial Committees of
Edinburgh. Glasgow, Aberdeen, and St. Andrews,
and there are good training colleges in all these
towns. The regulations are very sunilar to
those in force in England and Wales, and will
be found in the " Regulations for the PreUmi-
nary Education, Training and Certification
of Teachers," issued by the Scotch Education
Department. Candidates for elementary school
teacherships must not be under sixteen or over
eighteen years of age when they are juiiior
students. At eighteen the Preliminary Examina-
tion for the Teacher's Certificate must be passed.
For those who intend to become secondary
school teachers the training necessary for pre-
paration for a degree is less costly than in
England. Those with degrees must take one
year's special training in teaching in order to
become secondary teachers. Bursaries m pre-
paration for elementary school teacherships
are granted at the discretion of the traimng
authorities. Salaries are on a lower scale than
in England- £83 for an assistant mistress, and
£100 for a head mistress being considered a
fair rate of pay. In a few of the high schools
salaries are paid at a higher rate, some of them
averaging the scale prevaUing in English schoo^.
Kindergarten and Lower Form Teaching.- At
one time it was a general idea that any girl or
woman with a smattering of education, however
superficial, was competent to teach young
children. Happily nowadays tho fallacy of this
idea is recognised. The kindergarten system of
teaching has become perfected, and is gener-
ally adopted as the best method of teaching
little ones.
A very thorough training must be undergone
by the would-be kindergarten teacher before
she becomes eligible for a post. This traimng
must have a good general education as a primary
foundation. A candidate should also have passed
some pubUc examination such aa the Oxford or
Cambridge Senior or Higher Local, or the London
Matriculation. The course of training m kinder-
garten work as a preparation for tho certificates
%i the National Froebel Union must next be
taken. There are two certificates, the elementary
and the higher. Both are recognised by the
Board of Education, and one of them must
be taken before a post as kindergarten or lower
form mistress can bo obtained. All those who
wish to obtain the better posts in kindergarten
work, such as the management of a kindergarten,
should study for the higher certificate. The
elementary certificate is sufficient for assistant
kindergarten mistresses. There are several train-
ing colleges in the United Kingdom where
students are prepared for the Froebel exami-
nations. Tlie full course of training extends over
two years and a term, the first year being taken
up in preparation for the elementary certificate.
All information in regard to the Froebel exami-
nations, names of training colleges, &c., may
bo had on application to the Secretary, the
National Froebel Union, Norwich House, South-
ampton Street, Bloomsbury, London, W.C.
Prospects. - There are numerous posts obtain-
able in kindergartens connected with high
schools, kindergartens, private schools, and
the lower forms of secondary schools, ele-
mentary schools, &c. The commencing sala^^
for an assistant mistress averages from £60
to £70.
Teachers ol Foreign Languages.- There are
good prospects for the teacher who has thoroughly
mastered some foreign language. This should
have been acquired in the first instance by a
term of residence in the country, as fluency ot
conversation, with purity of accent, are aa in-
dispensable as the mere learning.
Holiday courses in France for English teachers
are arranged every August, and particulars of
them can be obtained by applying for the
" Table of Holiday Courses on the Continent,
prepared by the special inquiries office of the
Board of Education, Whitehall, S.W.
If desirous of teaching in schools, the language
which the teacher is to make her speciality
should be included in the syllabus of her ex-
aminations for her degree. A diploma gained
at an examination taken in the country itseit
is more than valuable. The prospects for the
teacher of languages are very good, but a high
degree of proficiency is exacted. Posts may be
obtained on the staffs of high schools, colleges,
and private schools, and it is also possible ^-j
establish a connection as visiting teacher m
schools and private families.
Teaching the Deaf.- This opens up a promising
field for women and should especially appea
to those with large sympathies as being a real
philanthropic work, the results of which are such
a boon to those who are so sadly afflicted. The
deaf are taught either by the "oral" or the
" silent " system. Children who have been deal
from infancy are also dumb for the reason that
they have never heard others speak, and there-
fore cannot imitate their speech as in the case ot
children who can hear. By the oral system they
are actually taught speech by watehing the lips
of others as they speak. This training naturally
takes a Uttle time, but when the pupils have
thoroughly mastered the language of the hps
they can be educated in the same way as children
who can hear. •, j v.
By the silent method the deaf and dumb are
taught to communicate with others by means of
signs and the finger alphabet.
Needless to say, a girl must have very special
CAREERS FOR WOMEN
619
qualities if she has to undertake tliis difficult
branch of teaching with success. She must also
be endowed with an abundant fund of patience
and sympathy, both of which quaUties are
necessary in teaching normal pupils, but how
much more so in the case of those who are so
sadly afilicted. She should have had a thor-
oughly good education and a training that woiild
have enabled her to teach in ordinary schools
before speciaUsing in this particular work. The
special training, which should extend over a year
at least, should be taken at one of the training
colleges where the students are prepared for the
certificate of the Joint Board Examination for
Teachers of the Deaf. Training may be had at
the Training College for Teachers of the Deaf,
11 Fitzroy Square, London, W., and at Eaton
Rise, Ealing. The London County Council
awards scholarships tenable at the special train-
ing colleges for those who intend to become
teachers in the County Council special schools.
Many posts are to be had in Institutions for the
Deaf and Dumb in England and abroad, and
also in the schools under Coimty Coimcils. To
obtain a post in the latter, the student must
have obtained her elementary teacher's certifi-
cate. For this purpose she can train at a train-
ing college for the elementary certificate in the
ordinary way and afterwards may take a third
year of training specially designed to prepare
for the work of teaching the deaf at a training
college or other institution approved by the
Board of Education, or she may be admitted in
the first instance to a two years' coiirse which
is specially designed on its professional side to
prepare for teaching in a school for the deaf.
She must take the Board's Final Examination
with certain modifications, taking, instead of
certain other subjects, the syllabus adapted to
her special course of training.
The same rules apply to those who wish to
quaUfy as teachers of the blind or the mentally
defective. Teachers of the blind may be trained
at the Smith Training College, Upper Norwood,
for a fee of £65.
Women as Lecturers. - Tliis is another branch
of the teaching profession which is open to
women who have taken their degrees. The
posts in connection with lecturing are many and
varied. Perhaps the most coveted are those
obtainable in universities and the principal
ladies' colleges, whilst in high schools and other
public schools good posts are also to be had.
The lecturer must be first and foremost a
specialist in her particular subject, be it in
Science, Classics, History, or Modem Languages.
In regard to the first named, she will have to
be a demonstrator as well. To obtain a post
in a university or a college connected with a
university the would-be lectiu-er should have
graduated with honours Tins would involve
four years' training at a university. For an
arts lecturesliip the B.A.,and for a science lecture-
ship the B.Sc, degree should be taken. In con-
nection with university extension lecturing there
are also many posts available to women. This
work is most varied and interesting and has a
somewhat wider aspect than college lectxiring,
although from the very nature of the work it is
more Ukely to be irregular and intermittent.
The salaries paid to lecturers in colleges are
good, varying, of course, with the standing of the
college. £200 a year is a fair average figure.
The earnings of the university extension lecturer
will depend upon the work with which she
is entrusted. Some lectixrers may hold two or
tliree courses in different districts in a term,
whilst others may only be called upon to give
one course, consisting of a lecture once every
week. The fees are good, amounting in many
instances to £25 for a course of ten lectures.
PRIVATE TEACHING
Private Schools. - Nowadays a high standard
of proficiency on the part of teachers is exacted
in the best private schools, and although there
are some schools which still pursue old-fashioned
methods, employing unqualified teachers at
sometimes nominal salaries ; yet, thanks to the
progress made in education within recent years,
these are now decidedly in the minority. A good
many of the larger private schools are modelled
upon the principles of the great pubHc schools for
girls, and in these establishments the teachers
must necessarily be highly efficient, degrees and
diplomas being always a sine qud non now of
their engagement.
Training. - The same training as that taken
for teacherships in public schools wiU be neces-
sary for those seeking employment in the best
private schools. For lower form teachers an
Oxford or Cambridge Senior or Higher Local
Certificate will be sufficient. In some of the
lower grade schools these certificates will be
deemed sufficient for the higher form mistresses.
By degrees, however, most of the best private
schools are recognising the fact that it is highly
desirable that teachers should have a certain
definite training in teaching in addition to the
usual university certificates. As a rule, how-
ever, those who have gone through their full
course of training as teachers will prefer a post
in a pubhc school to one in a private establish-
ment, as, with the exception of a few cases, the
salaries and prospects are so much better in the
former than in the latter.
The salaries in large private schools vary to
a great extent. In some of the best establish-
ments they reach the standard of salaries paid
in large public schools, but in the majority of
cases they are considerably lower.
The Governess. - At one time every girl who
wished to earn her hvang would seek a post as a
governess, for although salaries wore very often
small, yet the standard of proficiency exacted
620
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
by parents was correspondingly low. As long
as the governess had a fair amount of general
knowledge, was acquainted superficially with
one foreign language, covdd teach elementary
music, and dabble in painting or drawing as
a mere beginner, she was deemed competent
to undertake the education of children. Small
wonder, therefore, that the ranks of governesses
were swelled by the uneducated and the inefficient,
whilst salaries depreciated to an almost negligible
quantity.
It must be confessed, however, that in many
cases parents went to the other extreme, ex-
pecting their governesses to be able to teach
their children almost everything in the way of
languages and accomplishments in addition to
the ordinary routine of lessons. Sensible parents
realise the fact that a good teacher must be
thoroughly proficient in the subjects which she
teaches, and that it is impossible to specialise
in every branch of education and in all accom-
plishments as well. Yet in spite of this, one often
sees even now in the papers advertisements for
such a prodigy at a salary of £20 a year !
With the present-day progress of education,
the majority of parents recognise that a governess
to be a good teacher should have had a definite
training upon lines wliich will fit her for the
work in view. They also appreciate the fact
that well-qualified women are entitled to at
least a living wage, and that it is impossible for
any woman to have a thorough knowledge of
the whole gamut of arts, languages, and sciences.
In the best famiUes a governess is employed
for ordinary subjects, with the addition of
perhaps one or two accomplishments, wliilst
visiting masters or mistresses are engaged to
teach other accomplishments.
There are many qualities beyond the mere
abiUty to teach whicb it is essential that a
governess should possess if she is to be happy
in the position she occupies. Chief amongst
these must be classed tact and common-sense.
Very often a girl who has been brought up in
refined and cultured surroundings will imagine
that she is being subjected to all sorts of
slights and snubs ; she will resent the fact, for
instance, that she is not asked downstairs to
dinner at night, but is expected to take her
meal in the schoolroom. Surely this is un-
reasonable. She should remember that she is
not one of the family, and that her employers
are entitled to spend at least a certain portion of
the day in privacy and free from the presence of
a stranger. The sensible girl or woman, instead
of being ashamed of her position, should take
pride in the work with which she is entrusted,
and should endeavour to wn the affection as
well as the respect of her employers. Tact
should be exercised upon all occasions. She
should know when to be at hand and when to
make herself scarce. Her position is one of
dependence, it is true, but by her own common-
sense she will be able to lessan many of its
disadvantages. In refined families every con-
sideration is shown to the feelings of a de-
pendent. In the houses of unrefined people,
however, the life of even the most tactful girl
can be made unliappy by the want of considera-
tion and tact displayed by her employers. The
timid gentlo-natured girl should never take a
position of this kind. It may be said that girla
of excessively timid dispositions seldom make
good teachers. They are not disciplinarians as
a rule, and are seldom able to hold their own.
Gentleness is indeed a very necessary quality on
the part of the governess in dealing with her
charges, but the gentleness must be coupled with
firmness and never allowed to sink to vacillation
or timidity if any sort of discipline is to be
maintained.
Training. - One or two accomplishments and
conversational knowledge of at least one lan-
guage will prove a most valuable part of the
equipment of a governess. In the case of the
younger cliildren a knowledge of Swedish drill
will also be useful. The girl who wishes to be
trained as a teacher of the younger children
cannot do better than take a course of training
in the Froebel method (see p. 618). She should
also have the Oxford or Cambridge Senior Local
Certificate. For these examinations she can be
prepared at almost any good school, as prepara-
tion for the University Locals generally forms
part of the curriculum of most of our best schools
nowadays.
Tlie governess who will have entire charge
of little children should be well acquainted with
the care and hygiene of little ones, symptoms of
ailments, &c. She should also be able to give
her Uttle pupils a thorough grounding in drawing
and music.
For teaching girls of twelve and upwards a
Higher Local Certificate is very desirable, al-
though an Oxford or Cambridge Senior Local
will often be sufficient. If possible, a training
in the actual work of teaching should also be
taken. There are some colleges where a
speciality is made of training girls as governesses
in private families. At the Cheltenham Ladies'
College a full course of training is given to those
who wish to be governesses to either young or
older children. For the latter the training
extends over two years and a term ; for the
former there is a one year covirse. Full particu-
lars may be had upon application to the college.
Prospects. - It might bo said that these in
many cases will depend upon the governess her-
self. So long as there are highly educated girls
who are so ill-advised as to take merely nominal
salaries, so long will salaries in many cases be
maintained at a low level. A girl should re-
member that the expensive education which shf)
has had to take to qualify herself for teaching
demands something more than a mere nominal
fee. Governesses who have taken a special
CAREERS FOR WOMEN
621
course of training and possess certificates of
efficiency may always command good salaries,
and, as a rtile, it will be found that these will not
be grudged. Salaries vary to a great extent.
Sometimes £200 a year is paid to resident
finishing governesses, but such salaries are
usually paid by members of the higher classes to
ladies who are required to train their daughters
to take their proper place in society. A gover-
ness of this class must be au fait in all the usages
of society - should be able to instruct her charges
in the art of conversation, whilst the teaching
of accomplishments would form an important
feature of her regime.
The certificated governess for elder cliildren
in an ordinary family should at least earn £40
a year, whilst the well-trained governess for
younger children who has taken her Froebel
Certificate should receive a salary of £30.
Owing to the various standards taken by
different families, salaries are bound to fluctuate
to a certain extent, but all who take up this pro-
fession should see to it that a certain definite
minimum salary is secured.
TEACHERS OF GYMNASTICS, DRILL
AND GAMES
For girls with good constitutions and the
necessary training and capabilities, the teach-
ing of gymnastics, driU and games proves an
eminently suitable and remunerative profession.
It is healthy in as much as teachers of gymnas-
tics, from the nature of their occupation, have
abundant health-giving exercise, and so escape
from that sedentary life which teaching as a rule
involves. The work has the additional charm
of variety, and a thoroughly efficient gymnastic
and drill mistress may command very good fees.
A most careful and comprehensive training is
required before a girl can fit herself for the posi-
tion of gymnastic teacher ; in addition, the girl
who wishes to take up physical training in order
to put it to practical use should be one who
is likely to be a good teacher when the training
is completed. That cheerful yet respect-com-
pelling personality, which is so powerful in in-
fluencing pupils for good when possessed by the
ordinary teacher, is more than ever valuable in
the case of the gymnastic and games mistress.
Training. - The course of study to be followed
by a girl who wishes to become a teacher of
gymnastics covers a wide field of knowledge both
theoretical and practical ; it includes : -
Physical exercises and drill with and without
dumb-bells, Indian clubs, &c., including
Swedish and German drill, breathing exercises,
military drill and sword drill ; gymnastics
proper - ^that is to say, exercises on gymnastic
apparatus, such as parallel bars, horizontal
bars, trapeze, vaulting hor??, ladders, giant's
stride, &c.
Medical gymnastics, i.e. gymnastics with
remedial apparatus for correcting and curing
physical weakness and deformities - ^massage,
fencing, swimming, out-door games, dancing,
voice production.
The theory of gymnastics has also to be
studied, the course comprising anatomy,
physiology, hygiene, and in some cases niirsing
and ambulance work.
The best age for a girl to begin her training is
seventeen. She should not begin younger than
this, but the sooner she begins after the age of
seventeen has been reached the more successful
as a rule will her training be. A woman should
not go in for training as a gymnastic teacher
after the age of twenty-eight, when she has lost
some of the suppleness of her first youth. A good
constitution is of course essential, and a medical
man should be consulted before a girl decides to
take up gymnastics and physical culture as a
career.
The best all-round training can be had at those
colleges at which both the German and Swedish
systems of gymnastics are taught. To thor-
oughly qualify herself for the position of teacher
the student should go in for the examinations of
one of the following bodies who grant certificates
of membership to successful candidates : -
The British College of Physical Education
(Mem. Brit. Coll. Phys. Ed.) ; Gymnastic
Teachers' Institute (M.G.T.I.) ; National Society
of Physical Education (N.S.P.E.).
Most of the Physical Training Colleges prepare
their students for these examinations. When
successful students are enabled to write the
magic letters of membership of one or other of
these institutions after their names, they may be
said to be fairly equipped for their teaching
careers.
There are many good Physical Training
Colleges in England and Scotland at wliich a
student can go through the necessary course
to qualify as a teacher of gymnastics. The
Liverpool Gymnasium Training College, 171
Bedford Street, South, Liverpool, is particularly
notable for the success achieved by pupils, a
number of whom have secui-ed posts as gym-
nastic teachers in County Council and Board
Schools, also public appointments as inspectors
or trainers of physical education. The college
is residential, but a few day students are received.
The course of training is two years. The
subjects included are : -
Anatomy, Physiology, Pathology, Orthopedics,
Massage, Ambulance, Sick Nursing, Hygiene,
Tlieory of Gymnastics, Theory of Games, Edu-
cational Gymnastics (Swedish and Anglo-
German systems). Remedial Gjnnnastics (Swedish
system), Fencing (French), Dancing, Swimming,
Rowing, Hockey, Cricket, Tennis, Lacrosse,
Rounders, Vigoro. Badminton, Net-ball, Basket-
ball, Children's Games, Elocution, Needlework
and Cutting-out.
The fees for resident students per term is
622
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
twenty-five guinetis, for non-resident twelve
guineas.
Good training may also bo had at Madame
Bergman Osterberg's Physical Training College,
Dartford Heath, Kent ; the Southport Physical
Training College, Southport ; St. Bride's Physi-
cal Training College, Bride Lane, London, E.C. ;
Physical Training College for Women, South
Western Polytcclinic, Chelsea, London, S.W. ;
Manchester Physical Training College, Husholme,
Manchester.
Prospects. - ^The openings are good for the
fully-trained teacher who can be personally
recommended. The growing importance at-
tached to physical culture as a factor in pre-
serving health has created a demand for well-
qualified teachers. Every year more schools
engage a resident gymnastic and games mistress.
Only ladies who will make good teachers and
disciplinarians should enter for the gymnastic
teaching profession, which reqtiires much tact,
good common-sense, and good authority. So
many people take up this profession who are
quite unsuitable for it, that it would appear
on the surface to be becoming overcrowded ; it
is these incompetents who will in time swell
the ranks of the unemployed. There are not
too many really capable teachers, and these
will always find their value.
The salaries vary, the minimum being £40
for a resident instructress, or £90 for a non-
resident instructress, but some salaries run into
hundreds a year. A visiting teacher in schools
can also make a very good income if she succeeds
in establishing a good connection, and a thor-
oughly well-trained teacher with good business
ability and organising powers may found a
school of her own in a town where one is needed.
Note. - For Teachers of Domestic Subjects,
Art, Music, &c., see under separate sections.
LITERARY AND SECRETARIAL WORK
JOURNALISM
The profession of journalism has an irresistible
fascination for most women who are at all pro-
ficient with the pen ; it is a profession, however,
which is not so easily accessible as other caUings.
Tliere is an element of uncertainty about it also
which should be well considered before deciding
to adopt journalism as a career. In the news-
paper world this uncertainty is particularly
evident. Papers change hands, new proprietors
bring in new editors, new editors engage new
staffs, and the members of the old staff,
however efficient and conscientious they may
be in their work, are thrown out of employ-
ment.
The reallyclever journalistand wTiter,however,
can always find a demand for her work ; but
in all professions the mediocre worker of only
average ability preponderates. It is to the
mediocre worker that this warning is given. If
she manages by good fortune or influence to
acquire a position in a newspaper office she
may jog along comfortably enough until one
day a staff upheaval comes, in the way of a
change of editorship or some other similar
contingency. Once she is thrown out of em-
ployment in this manner she wiU find it difficult
to get another position of a similar nature, and
a journalist somehow always finds it very
difficult to settle down to less interesting work,
so strong is the fascination of " Fleet Street "
for those who have once been witliin its precincts.
Many women journalists, however, have
followed this profession with brilliant success.
Tliey have set the stamp of individuality upon
their work. They have specialised upon certain
subjects and become known as authorities upon
those subjects. For the v.ork of these women
there is always a demand, and the large income
made by those favoured few is enough to hold
out dazzling prospects to the beginner who is
anxious t> follow in their footsteps.
There are many things to consider before
finally deciding to adopt journalism as a career.
First and foremost it is important to realise
the fact that a good writer does not necessarily
make a good journalist. Other things are re-
quired in journalism besides fluency with tho
pen. The joui'nalist must possess what is
rightlj'^ known as the 'journalistic instinct"
if she is to pursue her career with any measure
of success. She must have a keen sense of
" news " and " news " subjects. For instance,
she must have the power of realising the news
value of the different subjects dealt with in her
morning paper, with the faculty of being able
in her mind to quickly summarise and analyse
their comparative possibilities from the point
of view of public interest. The efficient journa-
Ust can tell to a nicety what news is worth
" following up," what subjects the public would
Hke to hear more about. She appreciates the
fact that good news stories and subjects for
interesting articles lurk in most unexpected
corners - a chance sentence in the speech of a
well-known pubUc man, a remark uttered by
a weU-known judge, a declaration by a well-
known scientist, all may be rich in news possi-
bilities, and to miss them might be to miss the
opportunity of a good article or a good news
story.
A journalist must keep in touch with current
events. She should also keep watch on future
happenings. The " Futiu-e Arrangements "
column, describing important public engage-
ments for the near future, winch appears every
week in most of o^xc daily papers, should be
carefully studied, and the contents cut out and
pasted in a diary for reference. A woman
journaHst should be well informed upon all tho
principal subjects of the day. She should know
also how to store up information for future
reference. It has been said with truth that the
scissors and the past"-pot are almost as formid-
able weapons in the armoury of a journalist £is
the pen ; well, tliis is how the woman who wishes
to become a journaUst should make use of them
in order to derive the utmost value from her
reading. Every day as she goes over her
morning paper she should carefully mark in
pencil aU the subjects of special interest therein.
During the day she should cut out all tho para-
graplis she has marked, writing upon them the
name of the paper from which they are taken
and the date of their appearance. Tlie very
small cuttings sliould be pasted upon pieces of
white paper, with tho date carefully inscribed
on the paper. All these cuttings should be
carefully filed alphabetically so that they can
be referred to at any moment, and a list of the
cuttings should be kept in an alphabetical index-
book. A very simple way to file cuttings is 6^
follows : - Procure from a law stationer's a
623
624
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
number of foolscap envelopes with the flap
ooening across their entire length instead of at
the top. Those sold by general stationers
usually have half of the pocket portion un-
cummed, so that they require pasting down
bSore using. On the left-hand corner of each
envelope ^^-rite distinctly the subject of the
^ttin^ to be inserted. Thus an envelope
mirked" Aeronautics" would include cuttings
on baUoon, airship, and aeroplane flights and
records. These envelopes with theu- contents
should be filed by placing them upright in
the drawer or drawers of a desk, arranging
them alphabetically. The ..-riting on the left
hand of the envelopes can be easily seen at a
glance when opening the drawer.
FaiUng a desk, they could be stored upright
in an ordinary box of a size into which they
would just fit, neither too large nor too small,
or an ordinary ABC concertina file might be
made to answer the purpose. Proper fihng
cabinets may be had at very moderate prices,
but, faiUng everything else, the cuttings may be
filed in an ordinary- cardboard box as akeady
described. .
No woman who has not tried to keep a cutting
> file in this way can realise what an enormous
aid it proves to her work. H she cuts her
papers judiciously and weU- it requires the
journaUstic instinct to do this, be it said- it
is surprising what a largo amount of valuable
information on important subjects she will have
ready to hand for purposes of reference. Most
successful journaUsts have proved the value ot a
systematically kept up " cutting file." In it they
have found material and suggestions for articles
which have helped to bring " grist to the xnill.
The woman who wishes to be a journaUst, there-
fore, cannot do better than begin to practise the
systematic fiUng of all sorts of Uterary matters
which are hkely to prove of future use. It wi
benefit her in more ways than one, for it will
serve to give her an insight into the kind ot
news and Uterary fare the public wants. She
wiU recognise the varying style of articles prmted
in the different papers and periodicals, and it it
is her aim to be an outside contributor she will
not waste her time in sending editors articles
wholly unsuitable for their pubhcations.
A woman journalist should therefore be well
informed in regard to current events and topics
of interest. She should not only know how to
read but also how to turn her reading to the
best 'advantage. In addition to her "cutting
file " she should have as many reference books
at hand as possible. '" Whitaker's Almanack,"
" Wlio's Who," " Hazell's Annual," Jack's
" Reference Book," and a good Encyclopsedia
should, if possible, find a place on her book -shelf.
She should bo well acquainted with the names of
famous authorities on various scientific subjects
and the leading questions of the day. In a
word, she should not only be well informed,
but she should also be an adept at putting her
knowledge to good account.
Journalistic Positions lor Women.- There are
many positions upon the staflis of newspapers
or periodicals wliich may be filled by women.
A woman may be either on the indoor or the
outdoor staff of a paper or on both. On the
indoor staff such positions as editor of the
ladies' column or page, exchange editor,
assistant to the editor, news editor, or literary
editor may be filled.
On the outdoor staff a lady may be engaged
solely in attending fashionable social functions,
or she may be a lady reporter. Without being
on the staff of a paper a woman may make a
name for herself as a writer on " Special Subjects."
There is always a market for the articles of the
woman speciaUst, whether her subject be Dress,
Household Pets, Sport, or Woman's Suffrage. ^
Editing a Woman's Page.- A good all rouna
knowledge of special subjects of interest to
women, such as "Dress," "The Home
" Society," is essential, a facile pen, and the
abiUty to sub-edit, arrange, and " make up a
page." The woman's page of a paper is usually
of the utmost value on account of the advertis-
ing revenue it brings. For this reason there
is scarcely a daily paper nowadays that does
not possess its woman's page or column. It
will be seen, therefore, that the editress of
a woman's page should not only be able
to write fluently on subjects of interest to
women, but she must also possess a keen eye
towards the advertising interest. Whilst avoid-
ing the crudeness of what is known journal-
istically as the " pufE paragraph," she should
be able to give graceful and interesting de-
scriptions of even the most uninteresting of
advertisers' specialities, which caU for editorial
notice. In addition to being a good journalist,
she should also be a good business woman.
The combined qualities will make her invaluable
both to the advertisement as well as to the
editorial department, and to secme the co-
operation of the latter in addition to that of
the former is to make her position doubly sure.
Salaries for this particular work vary in
accordance with the position of the paper. On
the smaU provincial journals £2 a week would
be considered a fair rate of pay, whilst on the
large London daihes the editor of the "Woman s
page may earn an income of from £5 to £10 a
week and upwards.
There are very seldom vacancies to be touna
on the principal ladies' weekly papers, all of
which have well-known women writers on their
staffs, but on the smaller weeklies and on the
staffs of magazines openings may often be
found In these instances, however, the scale
of pay is considerably less than in the case
of the daiUes and larger periodicals.
Training.- The best training for this kind ot
work is that received by practical experience
LITERARY AND SECRETARIAL WORK
625
as secretary and assistant to a fashion editress.
Girls have risen to the position of editress in this
way, but they have always been girls with
brains who knew how to make the most of their
opportunities.
Society Editor and Social Reporting. - A certain
acquaintance with the manners and usages of
good society is necessary for this particular
work, with a good memory for faces, quickness
of observation, and a facile graphic pen. The
journalist who deals with society functions is
sometimes known as the " Society Editor." She
should dress well, and cultivate a pleasing,
tactfvd manner. Self-possession and savoir jaire
axe very important attributes in work of this
kind, where a woman will have to mix at times
in the highest social circles. A good social
connection will be a great recommendation in
obtaining a post as " Society Editor." The
position is a very well-paid one, particularly in
London with its unending round of social
functions, but the expenses in the way of dress,
&c., are very great. During the season the
work of reporting also is apt to become most
arduotis. The very special quahties reqiiired
for the suitable filling of the post of society
editor are possessed by comparatively few
women, and for this reason this branch of
journalism is not so overcrowded as others. A
woman who possesses all these quahties is a
most valuable member of a newspaper staff.
Exchange Editor. - The position of " Exchange
Editor " on a daily paper may be successfully
filled by a woman. It is a position, however,
which is as a rule only obtainable by a girl
who has gained a certain amount of experience
of the inside of a newspaper office. The in-
teUigent girl who has filled the post of secretarial
assistant to the editor or the news editor is the
one most Ukely to be promoted to a position of
this kind, as it is essentially one which can only
be filled by a woman with a certain amount of
joui'nalistic training. First and foremost it is
essential that the exchange editor should have
the " news instinct." She must be able to
tell to a nicety what news is worth following
up, and also be able to make suggestions for
good articles and new stories.
Every day she has to carefully read all the
chief morning and evening papers published in
Great Britain and Ireland, together with certain
of the foreign papers, if these are not dealt with
in the foreign editor's department - also the chief
technical i apers and other weekUes on the duys
on which they are issued. On these papers
she must mark for cutting all news that has to
be followed up, all paragraphs which might
suggest a news story of any Icind, and in some
cases write down her suggestions for the benefit
of the news editor or any other editor whom
they may concern.
She will also have to out out all references
to and dates of future engagements for the
use of the news editor. The responsibility of
the position lies in the fact that the " Exchange
Editor " must not miss either a subject which
requires following up, or a subject which holds
out any possible suggestion.
The exact routine of the work varies in dif-
ferent offices, but its principles remain the same.
In some newspaper offices there will be two
exchange editors. One will be on duty in the
early morning until about 3 P.M., and the other
from 3 P.M. and during the evening ; the work
in this way wiU be well divided. In many offices
the foreign papers are dealt with in the foreign
editor's room, and the exchange work for the
news editor is done by one of the news editor's
assistants. Everything wiU depend of course
upon the size of the staff. Salary for work of
this kind varies to a great extent ; and as the
post is one which depends a great deal upon
promotion in the office, no set figure can be
given. As it is a position of some responsibihty
£4 a week should be the minimum figure,
rising to £6 or more. A woman will have
to show remarkable sharpness and aptitude
before she is entrusted with this work, and, as
has been said before, it is a post that can only
be obtained by a woman with experience of
the inner side of the newspaper office.
Secretary to Editor. - This is a position of
some importance and trust. A girl may be
secretary to the editor-in-chief or to any of his
subordinate editors - the news editor, literary
editor, &c., &c. The scope of an editorial
secretary's duties are very large. When she is
secretary to the editor-in-chief her work will
not only consist in deahng with his correspond-
ence ; often she will have to do " Exchange
Work " on his behalf, read and give her opinion
upon articles submitted, arrange the editor's
appointments, interview people for him ; in fact,
there is no limit to the extent and variety of her
duties. If she is secretary to the news editor
she may also, besides dealing with liis corres-
pondence, have to watch the newspapers and
the news tape machines on his behalf, drawing
his attention to any news of importance coming
over the machines. In her charge will be all
invitations and tickets of admission to social
functions. These she will have to acknowledge
or refuse as the case may be, keeping the invita-
tions ready to hand filed under their respective
dates.
The extent of responsible work with which
an editorial secretary is entrusted will depend
to a great extent upon the capability she displays.
She may never rise beyond the level of a short-
hand typist, but if she is tactful, clever, and
makes the most of her opportunities, she will
become invaluable to her chief and be in all
probability promoted to the position of editor's
or news editor's assistant, where the scope of
lier duties will be considerably enlarged.
Two pounds a week is a good commencing
2r
626
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
ealarj^ for an editor's secretary. Tins may be
incr?ased to as much as £4 and upwards whore
promotion to the duties of "" assistant. s obtained^
Habits of system and order and a knowledge of
the various'filing systems are invaluable in a post
of tlS kind, vdie^e so max.y manuscripts have
to be deeJt with. , , , j.
Women Reporters.-Reporting holds out
many prospects for women m the world of
Surnalism, but at the same tmie a woman
reporter to succeed must have special talents
and capabilities. Some women never rise above
the level of junior reporters, earning from
£1 10s to £2, 2s. a week. Tliese show no special
talent in their work beyond taking a good
shorthand note if needs be, and being able to
take an accurate report of lectures and meetings ;
but the really clever woman reporter is mvaluable
upon a newspaper staff. _ - ^ ir +
The successful woman reporter is mteUigent,
energetic, and tactful, with abundant powers of
description and a facile pen. She is prepared to
Uve a strenuous existence, and her day is one
of endless activity. Her work is of a nature
which cannot be Umited to regular set hours.
The successful woman reporter has ideas ; she
can suggest a good news story and follow it
out to its conclusion, wliilst her enthusiasm
in her work is miflagging, and in tins way she
often compares to advantage with a man. tier
powers of intuition and her tact are so much
CTcater than that found in the average man
reporter that she is at times entrusted with
very special duties, success in the achievement
of which have often brought her into prominence
and served to secure her a much liighcr position.
As an interviewer in particular does a woman s
tact stand her in good stead. A good woman
reporter must be able to report upon anything
and everything from a Royal wedding to a
riotous suffrage demonstration. She m^ist be
ready to work at all hours should she be caUed
upon to do so. She must be prepared to endure
discomforts and even rebuffs at times. A woman
reporter should have no false pride. She must
know her way about and be well informed
generally. The very special qualities necessary
to make women good reporters are not often
found, but women possessing them have achieved
brilliant success in this calling.
In London the rate of pay for a woman re-
porter varies from £4 to £6, 63. a week. This
rate is sometimes exceeded, the salary varying
to a large extent according to the capabihties
of the worker. As an instance, one very clever
lady reporter, who is only twenty-five years of
age, is to my knowledge earning £8, 8s a week
on the staff of one of our large London daihes.
Good salaries may also be earned on the
leading newspapers in Edinburgh, Glasgow, and
Birmingham. On the smaller provincial dailies
the rate of pay is very much less. Broadly
speaking, there are comparatively few opemngs
in the pro\nnces at present. London is essenti-
ally the Mecca of the Woman Journalist.
Outside Contributions.- The incursions of many
women into journalism are limited to what are
termed in journalistic circles " outside contri-
butions " ; that is to say, they submit articles,
short stories, &c., to editors for their approval.
The great thing in work of this kind is to watch
carefully the style of articles pubUshed by the
different papers and only submit articles of a
similar style. A woman who makes a point ot
studying her papers and magazines thoroughly
will soon get an idea of the kind of matter used
by the various pubUcations. She should re-
member that brightly written articles waih a
certain topical interest stand a much better
chance of acceptance than articles upon general
subjects with no particular bearing upon
questions of the moment. One guinea per thou-
sand words is an average rate of payment for the
work of an unknown writer, the scale of payment
rising to £3, 3s. a thousand, whilst £5 a thousand
represents a fair payment for very special work.
A woman T^Triter should always endeavour to take
up a special subject and write upon it until
she becomes gradually kno^^-n to editors as an
authority on this particular subject. If she
achieves this result she will have no difficulty
in finding a market for her Kterary wares
Short Stories represent a promising held tor
the would-be journaUst who has a gift in this
direction. At the present day the popularity
of the " short story " for magazines is on the
increase, and editors are always wilhng to
pubhsh really good work. The art of short
story-writing is, however, only possessed by few.
Those fortunate ones who are able to write a
really readable short story should make a study
of the literary fare which appeals to the pubho
taste if they wish to see their MSS accepted,
for in journalism it must be remembered tuat
it is not what the wTiter likes but what the
pubhc likes that finds a ready market.
Sending MSS. for Consideration.- All MSS.
sent up for editorial consideration should be
written on one side of the paper. It should be
typed if possible; some editors announce that
they wiU only read typed manuscripts. Whether
this rule prevails or not the chances are that
all neatly typed MSS. will be examined first.
If it is impossible to have it t>^)e^^Tltten,
then let the writing be as clear and as le^ble
as possible. All pages should be numbered in
their proper sequence, and the name and address
of the author should be inscribed on the top
left-hand corner of the first page, or at the end
of the MSS. A stamped and addressed envelope
should always be enclosed ^^ ^^^^f ^"^." №J ''^^
MSS. is desired. Do not make the nustake of
writing long verbose letters to the editor dis-
cussing the merits of your contribution or your
ambitions towards a literary career. Hundreds
of young girls make the mistake of imagimng
LITERARY AND SECRETARIAL WORK
627
that effusions of the kind may induce the editor
to look more favourably upon their contribution.
Never was there a greater mistake. An editor
is a man of business, not a man of sentiment.
It is his business to supply the public with the
hterature they require, and not to go out of his
way to give enterprising young lady journalists
their first chance.
Sub-editing. - Posts as sub-editors on magazines
or other periodicals may be successfully fiUed
by women. A good knowledge of grammar and
composition is essential together with an apti-
tude for extracting the essence of copy which
has to be cut down to facts only, owing to the
exigency of space. Aptitude for this work comes
with practice only. No amount of teaching
can impart the skill which is the result of
experience. A sub-editor should be able to
work quickly in times of stress. There is always
a certain " rush " of work incidental to getting
a pubMcation ready for press ; through this she
must keep a cool head, or many vexing mistakes
may result from her not being able to do so.
The sub-editor must know how to prepare copy
for the printers and to read and correct proofs.
She should also be acquainted with printers'
technical terms, the styles and sizes of type,
paper. &c. She must know how to measure
drawings for illustration blocks, and also know
how to make up not only pages, but the entire
publication if required.
A sub-editor should also understand the laws
of libel, and so be able to recognise any statement
which might be const ued into libel and cost
her paper a great deal in damages if allowed to
appear. Sub-editorships on the larger periodi-
cals or on daily papers are seldom filled by
women. On the smaller weeklies, woman's
magazines, on general magazines, and the smaller
periodicals such positions may be obtained,
but chiefly by the intelligent girl or woman
who is first engaged to fill the position of secre-
tary to the editor and afterwards drifts in to
the more responsible position. Let it be said,
however, that it is only the girls and women
with brains and initiative who can got on in
this way. The girl upon whcm the editor can
rely to act for him in his absence, settling im-
portant and unforeseen dotails on his behalf,
renders herself invaluable to liim, and her pro-
gress is assured ; whilst the woman who is
merely content to do what she is told, displaying
no power of initiative when occasion for its use
arises, will just as surely remain where she is,
never rising cut of the rut of her own particular
routine work.
The rate of salary varies according to the
paper. As compared with the responsibility of
their work, women sub-editors are not as a rule
well paid. On some periodicals with limited
circulation, ladi.'-s have filled the post of sub-
editor for as small a salary as £1 weekly. As a
rule, however, work at this rate of payment has
been undertaken only with a view to the valuable
experience afforded, the worker seizing the first
opportunity to obtain a more remunerative
post. £2 to £4 a week may be taken as average
salaries to be earned by a woman sub-editor,
except in exceptional cases. £3 to £4 a week
would be considered a fair rate of payment
in London.
The " Special Writer " and " The Free Lance."
- By far the most lucrative journalistic employ-
ment for the woman who is not actually a
member of the staff of any newspaper or periodi-
cal is that of writing upon " special subjects."
To do this, it is of course necessary to have an
expert knowledge of the subject in question, so
much so as to be looked upon as an authority
upon it. A woman special writer may be a
" free lance " or she may receive a retaining
fee from as many as half-a-dozen papers for a
weekly, fortnightly, or even a monthly contribu-
tion, and she can conunand £2, 2s. to £3, 3s. per
column for her work.
The term '* free lance " is used to indicate a
journalist who is not attached to any particular
paper, but is a fairly regvilar contributor to
many. A great deal of hard work and perse-
verance is necessary before a woman can achieve
any success as a " free lance." First she must
make her work known to the different editors.
She should try and think out some really good
ideas for an article or series of articles in the
first instance. When she has her plan well
thought out she should write the first article
of the series and call upon the editor to make her
suggestion. Good ideas are always considered,
and the writer stands a far better chance of
having her work accepted if she can put forward
some good well-thought-out scheme suitable
for the paper to wloich she takes it. She should
be careful, of course, to take her idea or scheme
to the right person. Amongst amateur journa-
hsts, as a rule, there is a very vague idea of the
personnel of a daily newspaper staff. Many
women think that the editorial department of
our large dailies is run by an editor, a sub-
editor, and one or two reporters. It would be
difficult indeed to get a newspaper published
at all with such a small staff. The average
editorial staff' of a London daily is made up
as follows : -
Editor-in-Cliief.
News Editor.
Literary Editor.
Foreign Editor.
Sports Editor.
Night Editor.
Chief Sub-Editor.
Editor of Ladies' Page.
" Leader " Writers and " Special "
Writers.
Dramatic Critic.
Musical Critic.
Reporters and Sub-Editors.
628
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
It will be seen, therefore, that whilst most ideas
should bo taken to the editor-in-chief, news
items should be submitted to the news editor,
litersu-y items to the literary editor, feishion
items to the fasliion editress, and so on.
News contributions £ire paid by Uneage,
three-halfpence a line being the average price
for ordinary news, and threepence a line for
special and exclusive news.
Training for Journalism. - Although many
quaUfications are necessary to make a journalist,
a facile pen and good powers of description are
indispensable, and it is useless for a woman
who has not the gift of writing to embark upon
this career. JournaUsm is the profession of all
others for which proper training can only be
obtained bj' practical experience.
There are several schools of journaUsm at
which valuable knowledge may be gained, but
no amount of training will ever be equal to one
yeeir's experience of the inside of a newspaper
office.
The very best training for the girl who wishes
to take up newspaper work would be for her
to obtain a position as typist or secretary in the
editorial department of a newspaper office. A
clever girl will make the most of her opportunities
by careful observation of what goes on around
her. She will seize eagerly upon any chance
of filling reporting engagements in times of
great stress when help is needed. If she does
her work well and is tactful and obliging her
chance will come one day. Many a girl from
humble beginnings has risen to quite an im-
portant position in this way. But it is only
the girls who do their work conscientiously and
well, who are always tactful and obliging, to
whom the chances come. Many a clover and
even brilliant worker has been passed by in
promotion owing to her disobliging disposition
and want of tact. Journalism is a profession
of ups and downs, quick promotions and rapid
changes. It is a profession which presents
brilliant prospects and heart-breaking disap-
pointments, and it is only the woman with
real capability, who is not afraid of hard work,
who can count upon any measure of success.
ADVERTISEMENT WRITING
Tlie art of advertising has made great strides
within recent years, and with this progress has
come an increased demand for really good
advertisement writers. It is not often that a
woman turns her attention to advertisement
writing as a means of income - a woman who
can use her pen with any small measure of
success has literary aspirations, as a rule. Well,
she need not altogether give up those literary
aspirations, but while she is hankering after
the unattainable, the money to " keep the
pot boiling " is slow to come, and one must Uve.
If she would turn some of her literary talent
to account by quahfying as an advertisement
writer, she would find plenty wherewith to keep
the " pot boiUng " if she only set about her
work in the right way.
Writing advertisements is not such an easy
matter as one would imagine. It requires a
peculiar knack of constructing forcible and
sales-compelling phrases. It requires the
faculty for concentrating upon the essence
of an argument and giving only the details
that tell. An advertisement writer should be
an adept at writing good headhnes, and at the
display and arrangement of type. She should
have a thorough technical knowledge in addition
to her Uterary aptitude, and also understand the
relative values of display and illustration, being
able to adapt her copy to suit the class of readers
to whom it is intended to appeal.
Little has yet been written or said in regard
to the prospects for women in the field of
advertisement writing. Too many are apt to
confuse advertisement writing with advertise-
ment canvassing, with the result that few give
a second thought to the possibilities held out
for the good advertisement writer. The business
of the advertisement canvasser is to get adver-
tisement orders for the paper she represents,
and although the ability to suggest a good
advertising idea to a client will stand her in
good stead, inasmuch as it increases the scope
of her usefulness to her employers, it is not
indispensable, the essential qualification being of
course the ability to obtain orders.
Advertisement canvassing does not enter at
all into the curriculum of the woman who takes
up the career of an advertisement writer and
specialist pure and simple. It is true that if
she obtains a position as special advertisement
writer on a newspaper the style of her copy
will most certainly tend to affect advertisement
orders, as an unwilling advertiser is often brought
to book by a really good advertising suggestion,
but here her responsibiUty ends.
The truth is being rapidly brought home to
large advertisers that certain phases of adver-
tising are better dealt with by women. Many
costumiers, milliners, and di-apers have their
advertisements designed by women, because they
have realised the fact that it requires a woman
writer to bring out the best selling points in
advertising all those things so dear to the heart
of womanliind in general. Who indeed is more
capable of expounding to advantage upon the
special qualities of furs, silks, hats, gowns, and
woman's wear in general than one of the feminine
sex who has an intimate knowledge of the
subject and understands just the kind of argu-
ments which will most likely appeal to women
like herself ? To the gradual recognition of the
qualification of a clever woman writer for work
of this kind is duo the fact that a good deal
of the booklet and special catalogue designing,
as well as the advertisement writing, for large
LITERARY AND SECRETARIAL WORK
629
drapery and millinery firms ia gradually being
entrusted to women.
A woman may be either a " free lance " in
advertising or she may obtain a good staff
appointment ; several large firms employ lady
advertisement writers on their staffs. The
advertisement writing for many of our chief
publishing companies is also in the charge of
ladies, whilst many newspapers, magazines, and
periodicals employ lady advertisement writers.
The salaries for those filling staff appointments
vary from 30s. to £4 or £5 a week, the first-
named salary being essentially that of a be-
ginner, £3 to £4 being the most usual figure
for the tried and trusted worker. Of course,
these figures admit of a great deal of expansion
in certain exceptional cases. The advertising
genius who, besides supplying the matter for
advertisements, is capable of planning out an
entire advertising campaign, from the ordinary
form letters to full -page advertisements in
the leading dailies, being able to handle facts,
figiu'es, and the business as well as the literary
side of the campaign, bringing the whole to
a successful conclusion, can practically demand
her own terms, but such advertising geniuses are
rare amongst women, who as a rule are apt
to under -value rather than over -value their
capabilities, and through over-conscientiousness
in this matter are loth to undertake large re-
sponsibilities. It may be said that it is this
lack of initiative which debars most women,
in whatever profession of business they are
engaged, from rising to the heights which they
might otherwise have attained.
A woman who wishes to take up advertisement
writing as a career must possess some power
of initiative from the very beginning. Take
the " free lance," for instance. Commissions
from advertisers will not come to those who sit
down quietly waiting for the " plums " to fall
into their lap. An advertisement inserted in
the " Want " columns of a suitable paper
might sometimes be productive and result in
perhaps one or two single commissions, but a
living is not to be made by chance work of tliis
kind. When a lady is thoroughly well qualified
as an advertisement writer, possessing a certi-
ficate or other similar proof of efficiency from
the institution at which she pursued her studies,
she should set about getting work by watching
carefully the advertising of the large firms in
her nei(?hbourhood - not only their paper and
magazine advertising, but also their booklets,
catalogues, or other printed matter. She should
study well the various kinds and degrees of
their merchandise, and think out good ideas
for a striking advertisement, a good booklet
or other literary matter. Tlie ideas must, of
course, be novel ones. Then she should write to
the firm in question enclosing her suggestions,
and asking them for an appointment. She
should do this in the case of several of the chief
firms of her neighbourhood, and if she receives
only two replies from firms who wish to adopt
her suggestions her trouble will be amply repaid.
Booklet designing and writing is very re-
munerative work. One guinea, as a rule, is the
price paid to a beginner, whilst a more experi-
enced writer could command a fee of £5, 5s. for
designing and supplying copy for one Uttle
booklet. A woman who wishes to estabUsh a
connection must be unfailing in her energy and
a hard worker. She must never be discoxiraged,
but keep on plodding until her end is obtained.
Then she wiU be able to lead a Ufe of com-
parative ease, for the expert advertisement
writer can turn out copy with very little trouble,
added to which the work of advertisement
writing is full of interest and variety. New
ideas are constantly suggesting themselves, and
there is a certain fascination in working them
out to their conclusion.
As has been said before, the number of staff
appointments as " advertisement writers " for
women is increasing daily, and for those who
prefer steady and regular work at a fixed salary,
however small, a position on the staff of some
firm or newspaper is preferable. Such posi-
tions are mostly obtained by recommendation,
although a staff appointment may often result
from introductions received while '" free lancing."
The Daily News is the best advertising medium
for a position of the kind.
Training. - It has been seen that to succeed
as an advertisement writer a woman requires
the qualities of energy, initiative, patience, and
perseverance, besides the necessary technical
training in her work. The girl or woman who
requires to be guided in every step she takes
had better give up the idea of embarking upon
a career of the kind, for her time will be wasted.
A certain technical training is necessary also.
The Americans have long ago realised the truth
of this, and they have innumerable institutes
and schools devoted solely to training in adver-
tisement writing and business methods. In
London a thorough training in advertising may
be had at the " Dixon Institute," 193 New
Oxford Street. This is a Correspondence School,
so that the training is accessible to any one
residing in the United Kingdom or abroad. The
course is a most comprehensive one, covering
the entire ground from the A.B.C. of advertise-
ment writing to the planning and carrying out
of an advertising campaign. The beginner is
instructed in the technicalities regarding the
various styles and sizes of types and display
types, proof correcting, different kinds of borders,
blocks for illustrations, and the various illus-
trating processes. Step by step the students
are taken through every phase of advertising.
The lessons are very carefully graduated, and
the tuition may be said to be in every sense
personal to each pupil, every effort being made
to study their individual idiosyncrasies, and
630
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
direct tlieir training in the most profitable
manner. The fee for the whole Advertising
Course is £6, 6s. ; wliilst £9, 93. is the fee for a
combined course on advertising and business
methods.
It is ad\'i6able to take a course of this kind
before embarking upon the career of an adver-
tisement TUTiter and specialist. Of course, some
girls and women Eire so fortunately placed as
to be brought up in the atmosphere of adver-
tisement writing, as it were ; the secreteiry to
an advertisement manager, for instance, if she
is intelligent and observant, can pick up many
liints and go through a training of actual
experience. Now and then she may suggest
an idea for an advertisement which will prove
so good and effective that her capabihties in
that direction will become recognised ; gradually
more and more copy will be entrusted to her,
until she imperceptibly sHps into the place of
" special advertisement writer," her- duties being
restricted to writing advertisements. But these
are only special cases ; the average woman is not
so fortunate, and for her a thorough coiirse of
study is essential if she is to make any headway.
Natural talent is valuable, but where it is
combined with the knowledge which a thorough
training alone can impart, its value is increased
by almost cent, per cent.
SECRETARIAL WORK
The post of " private secretary " is one
particularly suited to a clever, tactful girl or
woman, and there is always a certain demand
for competent secretaries, which the stress and
bustle of present-day life tends steadily to
increase. All the leading professional men, such
aa consulting physicians, speeiaUsts, dentists,
barristers, authors, and dramatists - also our
great philanthropists and merchant princes
employ secretswies, sometimes one, sometimes
more, and they rely a great deal upon the
intelligence and capability of the persons they
employ in this capacity. These posts are in
many cases filled by women.
The growth of women's institutions, clubs,
political societies, &c., has also created an in-
creasing demand for the lady secretary.
Secretarial posts in charitable and philanthropic
institutions are also fiUed by women. There are
great opportunities in secretarial work for really
competent workers, but for competent workers
only. The army of incompetents who do more
than anything else to lower the standard of
women's earnings will find that in the domain
of the private secretary at leetst they cannot
encroach. There are some instances, perhaps,
when a good secretarial position has been
obtained by influence - and the long-suffering
chief has put up with the delinquencies of his
factotum through goodness of heart or dislike
of change - but such instances are rare. A
secretarial position entfiils too much responsi-
bility for it to be placed in inexperienced or
inefficient hands.
Qualifications and Training. - First of all the
girl who aspires to a secretarial jDost must have
had a thoroughly good general education, supple-
mented by the special training which is required
to adequately equip her for her career. This
latter should include a thorough and practical
knowledge of shorthand and typewriting. No
mere smattering of shorthand will answer the
purpose. It is not sufficient to be able to take
down a quick shorthand note if one cannot
read one's notes afterwards. The competent
secretary should also have a good knowledge of
precis-writing and research work ; she should
be conversant with at least two languages, and
know how to keep accounts. Book and docu-
ment indexing should also be included in her
secretarial training ; she should also know how
to read and correct proofs if she is to make an
efficient secretary for a literary man. System
and order are invaluable quaUties for a private
secretary. She should know where to lay hands
at once upon any document required, and for
this purpose should be acquainted with one or
two of the best filing systems and be able to
put them to practical use.
The time taken in special training will depend
a great deal upon individual circumstances. A
brilliantly clever girl, for instance, would learn
her work mucli more quickly than a girl of only
average capability. A year at least should be
given to the study of shorthand. In this
constant and daily practice is required. Orce
the elements of shorthand are mastered, the
student should make a point of attending speed
classes every day. At Pitman's MetropoUtan
School, Southampton Row, London, a feature
is made of these speed classes. In these classes
the student has to take down from dictation
at certain fixed speeds, the speed of dictation
varying from the ordinary speed of writing from
dictation in longhand to the highest speeds
attainable in shorthand, and, what is of the
utmost importance, students are required to
carefully transcribe their notes. At Pitman's
school a regular secretarial course may be taken,
the fees varying in accordance with the amount
of subjects included in the course. A very good
training may also be had at the Woman's
Institute, 92 Victoria Street, London, S.W.
This includes all the subjects with which either
a private or an organising secretary should be
acquainted, the fee being £35 for a course of
three terms. This course will in most cases
prove sufficient training for an intelligent girl,
who should, however, supplement it with regu-
lar shorthand speed practice. At the end of
her course the student will receive a certificate of
efficiency in all the subjects of general secre-
tarial work.
The Society of Arts and London Chambers
LITERARY AND SECRETARIAL WORK
631
of Commerce also hold examinations for which
the chief commercial and secretarial schools
prepare their pupils. Certificates from either
of these examining bodies will prove most useful
in obtaining a post. The cost of training in
secretarial work averages from £25 to £50, and
more if very special and thorough training is
undergone. Principals of Colleges as a rule do
all in their power to secvire posts for well-
quaUfied pupils. In addition to Pitman's School
and the Woman's Institute, good secretarial
training may be had at Clark's College, Chancery
Lane, London, and Kensington College, Ken-
sington, London, W.
Salaries. - An efficient private secretary may
command a salary of from £100 to £200 per
annum ; the salary of a residential secretary
would range from £50 to £150, or even more in
special circumstances ; good organising secre-
taries of societies are also well paid. Needless
to say, these salaries can only be obtained by
thoroughly efficient workers.
LIBRARY WORK AND INDEXING
The field for women Ubrarians is at present
somewhat restricted, though there is every
indication of future development in this direc-
tion. Library work is work for which well-read
and well-educated women should be particularly
well fitted. It is work, however, which requires
very special training. The Ubrarian should pos-
sess a good men-.ory for facts and figures ; she
should have had a thoroughly good education,
and must, in addition, be well versed in bibUo-
graphy, cataloguing, classification, and indexing.
A thorough training is indispensable ; there are
no openings for untrained workers. In regard
to pubUc libraries, women chiefly at present
occupy positions as assistant Ubrarians, though
in some instances the post of head librarian is
filled by a woman. The librarians of all the
women's colleges are women, former students
being usually selected to fill the post. In the
Board of Education library there are assistant
lady librarians. A lady is at the head of the
Times Book Club Library, with a number of
women assistants under her control. Most of
the large newspaper offices employ lady Ubrarians
and assistant librarians, and posts of this kind
are usually very well paid.
The Ubrary work of a newspaper office in-
volves special work in the filing and indexing
of newspaper cuttings. Experience of this
work is best gained by obtaining a position as
assistant in a newspaper library when the
ordinary training as Ubrarian has been con-
cluded. To fill a position as head librarian in
a newspaper office, or indeed in any kind of
Ubrary, a woman requires great powers of
initiative and organisation in addition to a
thorough knowledge of her work.
Training. - There are not many institutions at
present where good training in Ubrary work may
be had. Classes in general Ubrsiry work are
held at the London School of Economics, Clare
Market, W.C. Students are prepared for the
examinations of the " Library Association."
The full certificate of the Library Association,
however, can only be gained by those who have
had practical experience in a Ubrary, although
the classes of the school are open to all. The
fees amount to £10, 10s. a session for admission
to all the classes. Any of the subjects may,
however, be taken separately at separate fees.
The University of London grants a yearly
studentship of £25 for girls who have matricu-
lated or hold the certificate of the Joint Board
tenable for three years at the Library of the
School of Economics.
A good way of training is to give one's services
as assistant in some library for little or no
remuneration, thus serving an apprenticeship,
and at the same time quaUfying for the examina-
tion of the Library Association and fulfilUng
the condition in regard to actual experience
of Ubrary work.
Tlie salaries for Ubrarians range from £50 a
year for an assistant to £150 a year for a head
Ubrarian. In one or two large London news-
paper offices the figiu-e of £200 to £250 is reached
by head librarians, whilst assistants begin at
from £65 ; £78 to £156 in some cases being paid
to an experienced assistant. Tliese posts, how-
ever, are not as a rule easily accessible, prefer-
ence in fiUing vacancies being usuaUy accorded
to members of the staff.
Indexing. - Indexing, wliich should be thor-
oughly understood by the competent private
secretary and Ubrarian, may also be taken up as
a separate profession. Only women endowed
with an abundance of patience and perseverance
should take up work of this kind, which from
its nature is apt to become monotonous and
brain -fagging to those of a highly strung ner-
vous or impatient temperament. Accuracy and
power of concentration are essential attributes
for the indexer. A good technical training in
the actual work is necessary. A woman re-
quires to be an expert at the work if she is to
make a living as an indexer.
Indexing is fairly remunerative work. It is
not, however, always easy to obtain, but if a
woman has once obtained a staS position or
established a connection as a " piecework "
indexer, she will in all probability keep it, for
the essential qualities of accuracy and precision
so necessary in indexing work are compara-
tively rare ; so much so that an employer
will be loth to part with a really good reUable
worker in any circumstances. Perhaps tliis
forms one of the resisons for the comparatively
small number of vacancies to be found. A year's
training in indexing is usually necessary, although
in some few cases six months will prove suffi-
cient. For technical and complicated indexing
632
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
eighteen months to two years training wovild
be required.
For indexing alone the openings are not very
numerous at present, and the opportunities for
good training are comparatively limited. In
London a thorough training may be had from
Miss Petherbridge, 52b Conduit Street, W., for
an inclusive fee of £25 for a year's course.
The indexing of all our Parliamentary papers
is in charge of a lady, and some of the Govern-
ment offices and County Councils employ lady
indexers. Lady indexers are also employed
in connection with the Ubraries of newspaper
offices. At present indexing is most useful
when allied with secretarial or library work ;
but though the openings for indexing employ-
ment alone are not numerous at the moment,
they are likely to increase, and with the increased
demand the facilities for training will doubtless
become more numerous. £52 to £104 a year
is an average rate to pay for the indexer who
holds a staff appointment. Indexing, however,
is most commonly paid for as " piecework."
Two sliillings a printed page is paid for the index-
ing of Government Blue Books. In books and
other general pubUcations the rates of payment
vary. To make " piecework " indexing re-
munerative, a woman would require to establish
a large connection. A reputation for accuracy
and neat work will help her best to do this.
MEDICINE AND NURSING
At one time it seemed that the difficulties which baired the progress of women who wished to qualify
as medical practitioners were insurmountable, but gradually one by one these obstacles have been
overcome, and nowadays the path of the woman who wishes to quaUfy for the medical profession is
a comparatively clear one.
Women are now admitted to the medical examinations of all the Universities of Great Britain
with the exception of Oxford and Cambridge ; also to the examinations of the Royal College of
Physicians, London, and the Royal College of Surgeons, England, the Society of Apothecaries of
London, and the Conjoint Colleges of Scotland and Ireland. This article gives full information in
regard to time and cost of training for the professions of medicine and nursing, as well as a careful
survey of the prospects afforded to women in both careers.
Some Important Considerations. - Before a girl
decides to train for the medical profession, there
are several things which she must carefully
consider. In the first place five years is the
minimum time which can be spent upon train-
ing, six years as a rule being required. During
this time she must be sure of £130 a year at
the least to cover her medical training, board,
and clothing expenses, including examination
fees, books, instrvmients, &c. £130 a year would
indeed leave very littl^ margin, and the girl
who is not an adept at making small economies
would find it somewhat difficult to make ends
meet even on that sum. £150 to £200 would
really be a more satisfactory allowance ; but
£130 represents the minimum. Of course, if a
girl is living at home she will only need the
necessary sum for college fees, examination fees,
books and instrunaents. Also if she succeeds
in gaining one of the scholarships attached to
nearly every medical school, the cost of her
training will be materially reduced. The train-
ing for the medical profession is longer and
more expensive than that requijed in preparing
for any other career, and the time at which a
start may be made in putting it to a practical
use upon an income-earning basis is therefore
considerably deferred. Again, the girl who
wishes to make a success of the career of medicine
must possess certain indispensable qualities. In
the first place she must have a thoroughly
healthy constitution to enable her to stand the
stress of both training and " practice," when
the training has been completed. In addition,
she must have a thoroughly healthy and well-
balanced mind, and be free from that tendency
to nerves and hysteria which characterise so
many members of her sex. A good education
is, of course, indispensable, as a preliminary
examination in general subjects must be passed
before a girl can even enter upon her career as
a medical student. And last, but not least,
she must be endowed with an abundant fund
of good common -sense.
Savoir faire and a knowledge of social life will
also stand the medical woman in good stead ;
for this reai^on it is as well for a girl not to
take up her medical studies directly she leaves
school, but to spend a year going out into society,
travelling, and altogether enlarging her social
aspect. She should do her best to gain an
insight into character and to study the idiosyn-
crasies of the men and women with whom she
comes into contact. When she has started
practice much of her success will depend upon
her tact in dealing with the fads and foibles of
her patients ; in these circumstances keenness of
perception in diagnosing the character of the
patient will be as useful as keenness in diagnosing
the disease from which he or she is suffering.
It must be remembered that during her five
years of studentship her time will be occupied
by hard work and study ; she will not be able
to gq to too many social gatherings if her work
has not to be interfered with in any way, so
that she must make the most of her opportunities,
in the year allowed between the interval of
leaving school and taking up her studies, to
glean what knowledge she can gain of social
life in its different phases.
Choice of a Qualification. - Before a woman
can practise as a doctor her name must be
placed on the Medical Register of the General
Medical Council, and no one can be placed
thereon who has not one or more degrees or
diploma of one of the examining bodies already
mentioned after having completed the five
years' course of study required by the General
Medical Council. University degrees, more
especially those of the London University, are
633
634
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
held in the highest repute, and a student should
work for these wherever possible. If, however,
she has any doubts as to her powers in this
direction, she should content herself x^-ith working
for a diploma of one of the other bodies, as it
is considered that the attainment of a diploma
is of greater certainty than that of a degree,
so it is as well to make certain of the former,
especially as the latter can always be tried tor
afterwards. . . .
As the regulations of the various examimng
bodies differ to a great extent, it will be necessary
for a student to decide before beginmng her
course of study wliich degree or diploma she
wishes to obtain. , . v i j
Regulations- Every medical student should
be registered at the office of the General Medical
Council, 299 Oxford Street, London, W., withm
fifteen days after the commencement ot her
professional studies. In accordance with the
requirements of the General Medical Council
a preUminary examination in general subjects
must be passed previous to registration.
The following examinations are accepted by
the General Medical Council when the certifi-
cates include the required subjects -.-Oxford
and Cambridge Junior and Semor Locals.
Higher Local Examinations, Responsions, Mode-
rations, Previous and General Examinations,
Matriculation Examinations of the British and
most of the foreign and colonial Umversities ;
the College of Preceptors. First-Class Certificate
(the required subjects to be passed at not more
than two examinations) the College of Pre-
ceptors' Preliminary Examinations for Medical
Students- the required subjects to be passed
at one time. . ...
Any of these preliminary examinations will
fulfil the requirements of all the examimng
bodies with the exception of the Umversities.
In order to prepare for the degree of the London
University it will be necessary to pass the
Matriculation Examination of the University of
London, or any examination accepted by the
University in lieu of Matriculation. In enter-
ing for the degree of the Irish University the
student must pass the Matriculation Examina-
tion of the University of Ireland. The University
of Durham allows any registered medical student
to take the first and second professional examina-
tions, but before entering for the final exaniina-
tion a further examination in arts is required,
unless the student has already passed the
Entrance Examination of some University.
Chief Medical Degrees Open to Women
~ University of London- M.B., B.S., M.D., M.S.
University of Durham- M.B., B.S.
University of Ireland-M.B., C.H., M.D M^S.
Scottish University Degrees- M.B., Ch.B.,
M.D.
Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons-
L.R.C.P., M.R.C.S.
Society of Apothecaries - L.S.A.
Conjoint Colleges of Scotland - L.R.C.P.
The following quaUfications are also open
to women : -
M.A.O. and B.A.O.- Master and Bachelor of
Obstetrics (R.U.I.)
University of Cambridge- Diploma of PubUc
Health- D.P.H.
Royal College of Physicians, Diploma of
Membersliip, London - ^M.R.C.P.
Royal College of Surgeons, England- Diploma
of Fellowsliip- F.R.C.S.
Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons
Ireland- F.R.C.P.S.
Training. - The course of study for the London
University degrees of M.B., B.S. extends over
five and a half years. Three different examina-
tions have to be passed. The first examination
after one year's study, the second eighteen
months later, and the third three years later.
Courses for the Scotch University degrees,
M.B. and Ch.B., the Irish and Durham degree,
the Diplomas of the Royal Colleges of England,
the Triple Qualification of the Conjoint Colleges
of Scotland, and the QuaUfication of the Society
of Apothecaries, London, extend over five
years.
Chief amongst the medical colleges for women
are those at London, Edinburgh, and Glasgow,
which are exclusively for women students.
There are several other medical schools in the
provinces connected with provincial universi-
ties, but none for women only, the women
being admitted as follow students with the
men. ,
Women are admitted to the medical class-JS
on the same terms as men at the following
Universities : - .
Universities of Dublin, Manchester, University
College of South Wales and Monmouthshire,
Cardiff (University of Wales), Leeds School of
Medicine (%vith the exception of the Infirmary,
which is not open to Women), University ot
Birmingham, College of Medicine, Newcastle-
on-Tyne, and the Universities of Bristol, Shet-
field, Liverpool, Aberdeen, St. Andrews, Dundee,
Dublin, Belfast, Cork, and Galway.
M D. Degrees.- The London M.D. Examina-
tion'is only open to students who have passed
the M.B., B.S. of the University of L.on^on,
two years previous to entering for the M.D.
Examination.
There are no special courses arranged tor tue
M D Examination in London, as candidates have
generally spent most of the interval in obtaining
experience in Medicine, and in reading up the
special subject for which they intend to enter
for the examination.
The London M.S. (Master of Surgery) may
MEDICINE AND NURSING
635
also be taken in no less than two years after
the London M.B., B.S. Examination. Ex-
perience in the practice of surgery is the chief
training required for the examination. The
M.B., B.S. degrees of the University of London
are the qualifications in both Medicine and
Surgery.
Candidates for the Scotch M.D. degree must
have passed the M.B._. Ch.B. Examinations of
one of the Scotch Universities, and be of the
age of twenty -four or upwards. They must
pass an examination subsequent to one year
after receiving the degrees of Bachelor of Surgery,
and must have been engaged at least one year
in attendance in the medical wards of a hospital,
or in scientific work bearing directly on her
profession, and at least two years' practice.
Each candidate must submit for approval of
the Faculty of Medicine a thesis on any branch
of knowledge comprised in the second, third,
or fourth examination for the degrees of
Bachelor of Medicine and of Surgery which he
may have made a subject of study after having
received these degrees.
London. - " The London (Royal Free Hospital)
School of Medicine for Women " is the great
medical training centre for London, and was
the first women's medical school in the king-
dom. It is under the presidency of Mrs. Garret
Anderson, M.D., and the opportunities for
practical experience afiEorded to students, both
at the Royal Free Hospital, the practice of
which is reserved Tor the students of the school,
and at the New Hospital for Women, are un-
rivalled. The whole course of medical study
for the University of London, the Royal College
of Physicians and Surgeons, the Society of
Apothecaries, London, and the Conjoint Colleges
of Scotland and of Ireland can be completed at
this school. The greater part of the course for
the Durham University and the University of
Glasgow can also be taken. The Universities
of Calcutta, Madras, and the Punjab also accept
the certificates of the School as qualifying for
their examinations.
Cost of Training. - The fees for the entire
course for the M.B., B.S. degrees of the University
of London, including Laboratory and Library
fees, come to about £170 if paid down, and
about £10 more if paid in annual instalments.
To this must be added the cost of books and
instruments, which comes to about £30. Then
a two months' course of Practical Midwifery
must be taken in the External Department of
the Royal Free Hospital. Students must reside
during the two months required for the course
at the special house in connection with tlie
hospital maintained for the purpose. The
charge for Board and Residence is 25s. a week.
Students are also required to attend the practice
of one of the Fever Hospitals of the Metropolitan
Asylums Board, for which a separate fee must
be paid, and they must also receive special
instruction in Lunacy at the Bethlehem Royal
Hospital.
The entire cost of training would therefore
amount to about £250 for the whole course,
inclusive of extras.
There are many scholarships oSered for com-
petition which serve to give material help to
the winners in defraying the cost of training.
Chief amongst these are The School Scholarship,
value £50, which is ofiered annually, and is open
to candidates who have passed the London
Matriculation Examination or a Preliminary
Examination in arts recognised by the General
Medical Cotmcil and axe not holding any other
scholarship.
St. Dunstan's Medical Exhibition. - The
Governors of the St. Dunstan's Educational
Foundation offer annually an Exhibition of £60
a year for three years, extendable for a further
period of two years. Candidates must not be
more than twenty years of age and mvist
have passed the London Matriculation Exa-
mination.
The Bostock Scholarship for Women, value
£60 a year, awarded by the Reid Trustees every
fourth year, tenable in the first instance for two
years, subject to extension for a further period of
two years.
The John Bryan Bursary, value £20 a year.
The Faniy Butler Scholarship, value £40 -
£10 a year for four years, open only to candidates
willing to practise in connection with the Church
of England Zenana Missionary Society, 27
Chancery Lane, W.C.
The Helen Prideaux Prize of £40.
The Mabel Wehb Research Scholarship in
Pathology, Physiology, or Chemistry, value £30
for one year, and extendable for two or three
years.
Several other minor prizes are awarded.
Several of the chief Missionary Societies are
also willing to make grants towai-ds the medical
education of ladies who wish to take up medical
missionary work when qualified. (See tmder
Medical ]\Iissionaries.)
A reduction in fees is made for students enter-
ing the school with grants in aid of training from
Missionary Societies.
Edinburgh. - The Edinburgh School of Medi-
cine for Women, Surgeons' Hall, Edinburgh,
prepares students for the Edinburgh University
degrees, M.B., Ch.B., and also for the examina-
tions wliich are held conjointly by the Royal
College of Physicians and Surgeons, Edinburgh,
and by the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons,
Glasgow. Tliese examinations admit to the
Scottish " Triple QuaUfication." Tlie classes are
also recognised by other universities and
colleges.
Tlie minimum cost of education and exa-
minations for the Edinburgh University degrees
(M.B., Ch.B.) is about £150; for the Triple
Qualification, £115. Tliere are several bvirsariea
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
636
available to students, and the Carnegie Trust
Fund is also open to them as well as to students
of the other universities of Scotland.
Tlie students receive their Clinical Instruction
in the wards set apart for the purpose in the
Roval Infirmary, also in the Royal Hospital
for'Sick Children, the City Hospital for Infectious
Diseases, and at Bangour Asylum for the Insane.
Training in Glasgow.- The Queen Margaret
College is the Women's Department of the
University of Glasgow. Here women may
prepare for the degrees in art, science, and
medicine. For the medical degrees of M.B. and
Ch.B. not less than five years' study is reqmred.
Students entering on a course of medical study
must have pre%'iou8ly passed the necessary
prehminary examinations, and be registered in
the books of the General Medical Council as
medical students.
Students are prepared for the M.B., Ch.ts.
degrees of Glasgow University, the Scottish
" Triple Qualification," and the London and Irish
University degrees. The fees for the five years
amount to about £125, exclusive of examination
fees, books and instruments, and in addition
a matriculation fee of £1, is. must be paid every
year. The benefits of the Carnegie Trust Fund
and a number of bursaries and scholarships are
available to students.
Prospects.- The prospects for the quahfied
woman practitioner are becoming gradually ex-
tended now that a great deal of the old-fashioned
prejudice against the " woman doctor " has been
removed. In the first place, there is none of
that " under-cutting of fees " which has to be
adopted by women in most other professions.
The Medical Council has decreed that emolu-
ments for women doctors must be on the same
basis as those for men, and this rule is always
kept. The great object of the newly qualified
woman doctor should be to get experience.
This can be obtained nowhere better than in
hospital work, and before setting up in practice
for herself a woman would do well to take a
staff appointment in a hospital for at least a
year. A number of hospitals have opened their
'oors to resident women physicians. The
sa.. nes vary from £30 to £150 a year, and board
and lodging is given.
The New Hospital for Women, 144 Euston
Road, W., has a complete staff of women
physicians and surgeons. There are also posts
for medical women in London at the Clapham
Maternity Hospital and School of Midwifery, the
Chelsea Hospital for Women, St. John's Hos-
pital for Diseases of the Skin, the Bolgravia
Children's Hospital.
In Edinburgh women physicians and surgeons
are on the staff of the Hospital for Women and
Children, Whitehouso Loan, Bruntsfield, and
Dispensary for Women and Children ; in
Glasgow women medical officers are employed
at the Victoria Infirmary Dispensary and the
Samaritan Hospital for Women. Posts are also
held by medical women at hospitals in Birming-
ham, Brighton, Bristol, Hull, Leeds, Liverpool,
Manchester, Nottingham, Reading, and in many
other places throughout the country. Various
sanatoria and asylums have also recognised the
claims of the woman doctor, and appointments
in these are as a rule well paid. Private institu-
tions are also appointing women doctors, and
there are posts in connection with the Post
Office, Factories, Girls' Schools, &c. ; these ap-
pointments are as a rule remunerative, and many
women prefer to take permanent posts of the
kind to setting up in practice for themselves,
more especially those who do not possess the
necessary capital to tide them over the period
of waiting which starting in practice always
involves.
Private Practice. - ^No woman who has not
sufficient capital to tide her over two or three
years should tliink of starting in practice for
herself. To start a practice means a period of
waiting for the man practitioner ; this period is
more hkely to be prolonged than decreased in
the case of a woman. But a woman can do a
great deal towards forming a clientele besides
putting up a brass plate on her door and waiting
quietly for the arrival of her first patient.
To begin with, she should not start in a neigh-
bourhood without having first received some
very good introductions to some of the most influ-
ential people in the place. Then she must take
the trouble to make herself known socially : she
should dress well, go about everywhere ; in fact,
make as many friends as she can. It is doubtful
whether in these circumstances the woman with
an abundant fund of tact and savoir faire, who
creates for herself a social status, has not the
advantage over the average young man starting
in practice for himself, who is usually remp-x-
ably lacking in the necessary " push," and takes
little trouble to cultivate the acquaintance of
men and women unless they come aa patients to
his door.
There are several women doctors who nave
settled in practice for themselves with great
success and are now making incomes of from
£800 to £1000 a year, but these are only now
reaping the reward of years of waiting and hard
work. As a rule, when a woman has managed
to estabUsh herself as a practitioner, she may
count upon making £150 a year as a beginning,
once the inevitable waiting period has passed.
The extent to which the initial income will
increase will depend chiefly upon herself and
upon the wisdom she has employed in the selec-
tion of a suitable neighbourhood for her purpose.
In London and the larger provincial towns lady
doctors have done well, and there are still good
openings for well-qualified women physicians.
In the smaller provincial towns the prospects
are not so good, as there is still an overwhelm-
ing amount of prejudice to overcome. In the
MEDICINE AND NUKSING
637
larger towns in Scotland the prospects for women
doctors are also good. Perhaps the best open-
ings to be found at present ai'e in the Colonies,
South Africa, Canada, New Zealand and
Australia presenting an especially promising
field.
Assistant Doctors. - Medical practitioners with
very large practices often employ assistant
doctors, and in this particular field there are
abundant prospects for the qualified medical
woman. Women assistants are employed by
medical men as well as by medical women ; the
fees are good, varying with the quality and
extent of the practice, and an abundance of
experience is to be had in this way. To begin
as an assistant doctor is a good preparation in
all ways to starting in practice for oneself.
Medical Missionaries. - There are also good
openings for women in India, China, the East,
as medical missionaries in connection with the
various missionary societies. The commencing
salary as a rule averages about £120 a year.
The Society for Promoting Christian Know-
ledge is prepared to give assistance, at a rate not
exceeding £75 a year, for a period not exceeding
four years, for a complete course of Medical and
Surgical Training to ladies who are communicant
members of the Church of England, offering
themselves for work as Medical Missionaries in
connection with some Missionary Society of the
Church, or under the direction of a Bishop of the
Church, among Heathen or Mohammedan Races.
For further information address the Secretaries,
S.P.C.K., Northumber!-'nd Avenue, London,
W.C.
The London Missionary Society occasionally
has vacancies for ladies possessing medical
qualifications for work in India and China.
Apply to the Rev. A. N. Johnson, 16 New Bridge
Street, E.C.
The Zenana Bible and Medical Mission, King's
Chambers, Portugal Street, Kingsway, W.C,
assists ladies who wish to go to India as Mis-
sionaries.
The Church of England Zenana Missionary
Society desires to obtain the ser\n[ces of ladies
possessing medical qualifications for work in
India and China. Apply to the Secretary of the
Candidates' Committee, C.E.Z.M.S., 27 Chancery
Lane, W.C.
The Church Missionary Society is prepared to
help towards the cost of training ladies for Mis-
sionary work on special conditions. Apply to the
Rev.R.ElUot,M.A.,L.R.C.S.I.,Secretary,Medical
Committee, C.M.S., Salisbury Square, E.C.
The Society for the Propagation of the Gospel
sends out qualified medical women for medical
work among the women of India, China, and
Borneo. Women are accepted as medical pro-
bationers previous to their training. Applica-
tion should be made to the Candidates' Secretary,
S.P.G. House, Tufton Street, Westminster, S.W.
Women doctors are also appointed in con-
nection with the Lady Dufierin Fund. A small,
but at the same time a comfortable, income
may be derived from posts of the kind, and
the work, though hard, is varied and full of
interest.
Medical School Inspectors. - Under the Educa-
tion Act of 1907 the local education authorities
are obhged to provide for the medical inspection
of children before or as soon as possible after
their admission to a pubUc elementary school,
and on such other occasions as the Board of
Education may direct. These appointments
present good openings for the medical woman.
The salary begins at from £200-£250, rising to
£300 or more a year. The Diploma in Public
Health will qualify a woman for a position of
this kind, and will render her eligible also for
the post of Assistant Medical Officer of Health
or an Inspector of Midwives under the Midwives
Act (see p. 654).
Quarantine Officers. - Women are now being
appointed as quarantine officers at Suez.
HEALTH VISITORS AND SANITARY
INSPECTORS
Many Local Authorities have in recent years
appointed women as Health Visitors. Tho
special duty of a Health Visitor is to visit the
houses in the poorer districts, and there to give
adNdce upon the feeding and care of children,
and to assist in improving sanitary conditions
generally. The checking of the unnecessarily
large amount of infant mortality among the
poorer classes may be said to be the chief
raison d'Bre for the appointments of the health
visitor. Her mission is essentially that of an
adviser, and therefore to be successful in her
work she requires an abundance of tact, good
judgment, discrimination, and perseverance, for,
unlike the Sanitary Inspector, she has no power
to enforce the observance of the health laws.
Training. - The Council of the Royal Sanitary
Institute have established an examination for
Health Visitors. The syllabus includes general
structure of the body, personal hj'giene, air,
water, food, clothing, the dwelling, elements of
home-nursing, care of infants and young children,
prevention of communicable disease, first aid,
treatment of injuries, ailments and accidents. Tlie
fee for the examination is £2, 2s. A course of
lectures to prepare students for the examination
is given at the Institute. Training may also bo
had at the National Health Society, 52 Berners
Street, Oxford Street, London, W., and in Edin-
burgh and Glasgow at the Nurses' Training
Colleges.
The training is not a costly one, seldom in-
volving an expenditure of more than ten guineas.
The commencing salary is usually about £50,
rising to £100 or £150 in certain cases. Those
who wish to qualify £is Health Visitors would do
well to write for information to the Secretfiry
638
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
of the National Health Society, 63 Berners
Street, London, W., and to the Secretary of the
Royal Sanitary Institute, Parkes Museum,
Slargarot Street, London.
Women Sanitary Inspectors are also appointed
by local authorities, and although their number
is at present comparatively small, yet there is
no doubt that the openings in tliis direction will
be gradually extended. There is no doubt that
workshops and factories where girls and women
are employed are much better inspected by
women, and the recognition of this fact is due
to the admission of women into the ranks of
sanitary inspectors. The sanitary inspector is
under the authority of the Jledical Officer of
Health. The details of her work will vary in
accordance with the methods of the Medical
Officer under whose direction she may be, but
it is her chief duty to see that the provisions
of the Public Health and the Factory and
Workshops Acts are carried out. She will be
required to inspect all the factories and work-
shops, laundries, &c., where female and cliild
labour is employed, seeing that the provisions
of the Acts in regard to cleanUness, ventilation,
drainage, overtime, &c., are complied yith.
She must see that there is proper sanitary
accommodation and that there is no overcrowd-
ing. The inspection of tenement houses will
also in many cases fall within the scope of her
duties.
The work is of a most responsible nature,
involving as it does the enforcing of compliance
with the law, and the woman who iindertakes
it must count tact as one of her quaUfications.
Her general education must have been good and
supplemented by the special training necessary.
She will require to have the certificate of the
Sanitary Inspectors' Examination Board of
London in England and of the Sanitary Associa-
tion of Scotland.
The candidate must also bo able to produce
evidence of training by either having previously
held office as sanitary inspector or Certificate
of Instruction from an institution recognised
by the Board.
The examination for the certificate of the
Sanitary Association in London consists of two
parts. Preliminary and Technical. The Pre-
liminary Examination, which is both writing and
oral, is upon the follo'W'ing subjects : -
English (including writing, spelling, com-
position and dictation) and arithmetic.
The technical examination is upon the follow-
ing subjects : -
1. Elementary Physics and Chemistry m rela-
tion to Water, Soil, Air and Ventilation.
2. Elementary Statistical Methods.
3. Municipal Hygiene or Hygiene of Com-
munities, including Prevention and Abatement
of Nuisances, Sanitary Defects in and about
Buildings and their Remedies, Water Supplies,
Sanitary Appliances, Drainage, Refuse Removal
and Disposal, Offensive Trades, Disinfection,
Food Inspection.
4. Statutes, and the Orders, Memoranda, and
Iklodel By-Laws of the Local Government Board,
and the By-Laws in force in the Administrative
County of London.
Every candidate must forward to the Secretary
of the Board, not later than fourteen days before
the commencement of the Examination, notice of
her intention to present herself for examination,
and half the appointed fee. The remaining half
of the fee must be paid not later than seven days
before the date of the examination.
Candidates for the technical examination
must pass the preliminary examination, unless
they shall have passed an examination recog-
nised by the Board in substitution for it ; and
must forward to the Secretary of the Board not
later than fourteen days before the commence-
ment of the examination : -
Evidence of having attained the age of twenty-
one years, a recent testimonial as to personal
character ; if possible, from a Clergyman,
Jledical Officer of Health, or other person holding
an official position. Evidence of haying passed
a recognised alternative examination, in the
case of candidates who claim exemption from
the preliminary examination.
The examinations are held twice a year, the
fee for the preliminary examination is £1, Is.,
and for the technical examination £2, 2s.
The necessary training may be had at the
Royal Sanitary Institute, Parkes Museum, 90
Buckingham Palace Road, London, S.W. ; the
National Health Society, 53 Berners Street,
Oxford Street, London, W. ; the Bedford College
for Women, Baker Street, London, W. ; the
Heriot Watt College, Edinburgh; the Univer-
sity College of South Wales and Monmouthshire,
Cardiff; the Alexandra College, Dublin, an"^
many other provincial centres, a Ust of which
may be had from the Secretary of the Royal
Sanitary Institute upon application.
The work, though arduous at times, is not
excessive, the hours averaging about eight daily,
with the exception of Saturdays, which are half
holidays, Sundays, the usual bank holidays,
and the summer vacation (about a fortnight
to three weeks). The commencing salary is £80
per annum, rising in some cases to £185. Those
who wish to train as sanitary inspectors cannot
do better than write to the Secretary of the
Public Health Society, London, the Sanitary
Institute, London, or any other of the bodies
mentioned for detailed particulars.
SURGEONS
It requires very special qualities to make a
successful surgeon, and the number of women
surgeons is very limited. The prospects for
women in this branch of the medical profession
are necessarily restricted, and the woman surgeon
MEDICINE AND NURSING
639
will have to work hard for a number of years
before she can look for any return. The practice
of surgery entails a large measure of responsi-
bility, and pubUc opinion is slow to acknowledge
a woman's capability to undertake work in the
execution of which so much nerve, coolness,
and skill are necessary. If a woman elects to
practise as a surgeon at home, therefore, pre-
judice will prove one of the most formidable
opponents she will have to encounter.
The outlook abroad, however, is much more
favourable, especially in regard to those coun-
tries in which the women may only receive
medical or surgical aid from members of their
own sex. In India women are in charge of
the surgical work in some of the chief hospitals,
but the competition for these posts is necessarily
keen.
Training. - After completing her general medi-
cal education, which will take not less than five
years (see article on medical training), the stu-
dent must prepare for one of the examinations
for a degree or Fellowsliip in surgery. It will
require at least two years to prepare for this.
It will be advantageous to obtain a post as
assistant svirgeon in a hospital, as valuable
experience may be obtained in tliis way. Quali-
fied women doctors may enter for the higher
examinations in surgery of the English and
Scotch Universities at which they have gradu-
ated. Women may also enter for the Fellowship
of the College of Surgeons, Glasgow, and for
the Fellowship of the Royal College of Surgeons,
Ireland.
The training is on the whole a costly one,
seldom averaging less than £250. Unless a
woman has good private means, it will be
almost useless for her to set up in practice for
herself, as it will be a nvmiber of years before
she can even hope to earn sufficient professionally
to pay her way.
PHARMACY AND DISPENSING
Pharmacy is rapidly developing as a field for
the woman worker ; but it is a profession which
demands very special qualifications if it is to
be taken up with any measure of success.
Needless to say, a good all round general
education is an important preliminary to the
special training necessary This should bo
supplemented by the indispensable qualities of
thoroughness and perseverance, to say nothing
of a high standard of intelligence, a special
taste for the subjects bearing upon pharmacy,
and a love of and enthusiasm for the work.
In the study of pharmacy thoroughness above
all is essential; no mere superficial knowledge
will carry a girl through her qualifying examina-
tions, and those who show an incapacity for
going to the root of things had better pause and
think before they take up the work for wliich
a thoroughly practical training is above all
essential.
Training - The period of special training
must extend over at least three years. During
three years the law exacts that the student
must be apprenticed to a quaUfied chemist.
In England and Scotland both training and
quahfications are identical, as students must
prepare for the examinations of the Pharma-
ceutical Society. In Ireland the training extends
over four years, and the certificate of the
Pharmaceutical Society of Ireland must be
obtained. There is, however, very Uttle scope
for the lady chemist in Ireland. Prejudice is
still somewhat deeply rooted there, and many
Irish girls make a point of coming to London
to take the English quaUfication, and embark
upon their careers either in England or in
Scotland.
A preliminary examination in general subjects
must be passed before or during the appren-
ticesliip. Many qualified women chemists take
pupils and apprentices, and a list of these ladies,
together with a copy of the regulations for
training and examinations, may be obtained
upon application to the Secretary of the Phar-
maceutical Society, Bloomsbury Square, London.
W.C.
After her tlxree years' apprenticeship has
been ^ completed, the student may enter for
the " Minor " or qualifying examination of the
Pharmaceutical Society. She should prepare
herself for this by taking a course in laboratory
practice and various other special subjects at
a good College of Pharmacy at the end of the
third year of her apprenticeship. If she
passes this examination, she will be entitled to
describe herself as " Chemist and Druggist,"
and will be licensed to dispense and sell poisons.
The title of " Pharmaceutical Chemist " is
obtained by passing the " Major " examination
of the Pharmaceutical Society, wliich can be
taken after a further six months' preparation.
The cost of the training will amount to about
£100, and this, of course, is exclusive of board
and lodging if the student has to leave home in
order to pursue her studies. In addition, in
most cases there must necessarilj^ ensue a period
of waiting before the lady chemist is able to
make use of her talents upon a money-making
basis. It will be seen, therefore, that a girl must
possess a certain amount of capital to enable her
to embark upon this profession. Every lady
pharmacist should belong to the Women Phar-
macists' Association, pai-ticulars of the member-
ship of which may be obtained from Jiliss
Margaret Buchanan, Pharmaceutical Chemist,
Gordon Hall, Gordon Square, W.C. In con-
nection with this association, a very efficient
employment and information bureau" has been
established, where useful ad^^ce upon all subjects
bearing upon this profession may be obtained,
and through the medium of wliich employers
are put into touch with emploj-ees. Regular
meetings are held at wliich lectures by well-
640
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
known pharmacists aro given. Everything is
done by the society to encourage co-operation
amongst its members, and, by arrangement with
one of our best-known insurance compames,
insurance in respect of annuities upon super-
annuation is obtainable by members upon the
most favourable terms.
Prospects.- By far the greater number of lady
pharmacists are employed as dispensers m
hospitals, infirmaries, or other institutions. Some
have started a business for themselves, taking
pupils and apprentices, or are employed as
assistants by chemists. A certain number are
employed as dispensers to medical men or
women, whilst some large wholesale houses now
employ qualified lady chemists.
In certain cases a good business with medical
women may be secured. £118 per annum (out-
door), £70 per annum (indoor) would represent
the average salary obtainable in hospitals and
other institutions, where only one lady pharma-
cist is employed, for eight or nine hours' work per
day. In many cases the dispenser only works
five days a week. Where two or more dispensers
are employed the head one would probably
receive from £10 to £20 more, and the others
from £10 to £20 less. An annual holiday of two
or tliree weeks is allowed. Hospital hours are
usually from 9.30 a.m. to 5 or 6 p.m.
The salary of assistants to chemists averages
from £50 to £80 a year. The position of dis-
penser to a medical man does not, as a rule, offer
very many opportunities for the qualified lady
chemist, for the reason that the qualification of
the " Society of Apothecaries " is often deemed
sufficient for a post of the kind. This is obtained
by passing what is known as the "assistants
examination " of the above-named society. The
examination fee is £5, 5s., and at least six months'
training in chemistry and dispensing is necessary.
Needless to say, women with this lesser quali-
fication can only command very small salaries,
the sphere of work being necessarily limited.
Parents very often decide upon their daughters
taking this examination upon account of the
small expenditure involved ; but it is a wholly
mistaken policy, for if pharmacy is to be taken
up at all, it should be taken up thoroughly.
TTiere are so many women now qualified and
legally registered as pharmacists that it is becom-
ing daily more difficult for women only partially
equipped to earn a living wage.
DENTISTRY
Comparatively few women have as yet taken
up this profession. There is no doubt that the
woman dentist ia as yet something of a novelty,
and, as in the case of surgery, there is a certain
amount of prejudice to be overcome before
dentistry takes a firm place as a recognised
profession for women.
At present no woman should start practice
as a dentist unless she has a fair amount of
capital to tide her over those years of uncer-
tainty which must elapse before she establishes
a good connection. The training also is costly
and somewhat lengthy.
Women are admitted to the Examination in
Dentistry of the Board of the Royal College of
Physicians and Surgeons, the London Society of
Apothecaries, and of the Royal College of
Surgeons of Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Ireland.
Dental students must register their names at
one of the offices of the General Medical Council
in the same way as medical students. A
preliminary examination must be passed.
After registration a dental student must pass
at least four years in the acquirement of pro-
fessional knowledge, but it is usual for students
to spend five or six years in preparation for their
last examination instead of the regular four.
Not only dental surgery, but mechanical den-
tistry must be studied.
Training is taken at a Dental Hospital and
may be had at the National Dental Hospital,
London, and at the Dental Schools of Edinburgh
and Glasgow. Tlie average cost of training in
both the mechanical and surgical branches
amounts to about £210, exclusive of books and
instruments.
The woman who wishes to take up dentistry
as a profession should apply to one of the Royal
Colleges of Surgeons for a copy of their Regula-
tions for the Licence in Dentistry.
NURSING
Amongst what are known as the essentially
womanly professions, that of nursing must needs
take the foremost place. Many girls, however,
decide to embark upon a career of the kind from
purely sentimental reasons, losing sight alto-
gether of practical facts. They have read of che
deeds of Florence Nightingale and others, and
are fired with the desire of following the example
of their heroines in their own humble way.
This desire is very laudable and much to be
commended, and where a girl has a special aptj-
tude for nursing such high and generous motives
cannot fail to make her career in every way a
success- but she must have that special aptitude.
No girl should dream of embarking upon the
niu'sing profassion without it, and she must, in
addition, have a thoroughly sound constitution
and a healthy, cheerful mind. She must be
tactful, energetic and persevering, not afraid of
work, and always ready to accord that sympathy
to her patients which is looked upon by them as
one of a nurse's greatest attributes. It must be
remembered that the training involves much
hard work, whilst the income which may be
commanded by a fully qualified nurse is com-
paratively small in proportion to the amount of
responsibility entailed.
On the other hand, it is a profession fuU of
MEDICINE AND NURSING
641
interest and variety, and the possibilities of doing
good by ministering to the sick and alleviating
and helping them to bear their suffering are
practically unlimited.
To a girl who has had no experience of what
discipline and hard work means, her first year as
a probationer will prove a most trying ordeal.
She should endeavour, therefore, to prepare her-
self for life as a probationer by accustoming
herself while at home to a useful daily routine,
spent in the performance of such domestic
duties as she may be afterwards called upon to
undertake. A thorough practical knowledge of
domestic science is invaluable to the probationer.
If upon entering the hospital she is well versed
in the art of bed-making, cleaning out rooms,
cooking, &c., &c., she will not be at a loss when
called upon to perform duties of the kind, more
especially if she has been sensible enough to put
herself into thorough training in this respect by
going through the practice of the regular and
systematic performance of these duties in her
own home as a preparation for her career in the
hospital.
Probationers are seldom admitted into a
hospital under the age of twenty-three, so that
between the time of leaAdng school and entering
into hospital training, a girl has ample oppor-
tunities for preparing herself in this way. The
value of a good general education cannot be too
highly emphasised, in addition to which hygiene,
anatomy, and other branches of knowledge
bearing upon her future profession should be
most carefully studied. Habits of method and
good organisation should be cultivated, as these
will be found invaluable. Above all, the girl
who wishes to become a nurse should take care
of her general health, rising early, taking regular
and sufficient exercise, and accustoming herseK,
in fact, to a certain daily system of routine,
which will do as much as anything else to pre-
pare her for those habits of punctuality, method,
and discipline which form the chief characteristics
of hospital life.
There are several branches of the nursing
profession wliich a woman may take up - hos-
pital nursing, including nursing in the military
and naval serAaces, private nursing, district
muring, midwifery, mental nursing, and massage.
Many gentlewomen are no^ also training as
children's nurses, and there are also very good
appointments as nurses to be had in the Ele-
mentary Schools.
HOSPITAL NURSING
Training. - To obtain tliis, application must be
made for admission as probationer to a hospital.
The rules for the admission of probationers into
these institutions vary to a considerable dogi-ee,
and it is as well therefore co make inquiries as
to the conditions of admission prevailing at
several hospitals before selecting the one at
which to make the application.
In several hospitals a preliminary course of
training has to be undergone in a training school
in connection with the hospital before the
probationers are admitted into the hospital
itself. This course extends over a short period
of a few weeks, after which an examination is
held, and those who pass this examination are
admitted as probationers into the hospital itself.
The usual age limit for admission of probationers
is from twenty-three to thirty-five years.
Tlie training, with the addition of service
exacted by most hospitals, extends over a period
of from three to four years. During the first
year the probationer will be engaged in the
heavier routine work of seeing to the cleanliness
of the wards, sweeping, dusting, poUshing, bed-
making, &c. In most hospitals from the first a
small yearly salary of about £8 is given, and this
is often raised to £20 during the third year. Most
hospitals bind their probationers down to a term
of three or four years' service. Some girls, how-
ever, who do not wish to bind themselves in
any way until they have found out if the pro-
fession is likely to suit them, enter hospitals as
pajang probationers ; that is to say, they pay a
weekly fee for the pri\'ilege of being admitted into
the hospital for a certain short period, at the end
of which they can leave if they wish or enter as
probationers in the ordinary way.
Application for Admission as Probationer. -
When a girl has selected a hospital which she is
desu-oiis of entering as probationer, it will be
necessary for her to send in an application for
the pvu-pose to the matron of the institution.
She will receive in return an application form
on which are printed several questions which she
will be required to answer. Tliis form will have
to be fiUed in, and a doctor's certificate as to the
soimdness of the applicant's health ; also her
birth certificate will require to be sent with the
application form. In many cases a medical
examination ^vill have to be tmdergone laefore
admission into the hospital.
If it is decided to receive the applicant as a
probationer she will be required as a rule to
enter at first for a short period " on trial."
After this period has elapsed and she has proved
herself fitted for the work, she has to sign an
agreement with the hospital for two or three -
sometimes four years - according to the method
of training prevailing at the different institutions.
Much of the scientific side of the training is to
be had during the first year. The probationer
must attend and take note of the lectures given
by physicians and surgeons of the hospital -
and by the sisters and teachers. At several
hospitals an examination is held at the end of
each course of loctm-es. With each succeeding
year of her probation she will be given more
responsible work, and wlien the probationary
period is over and she has been granted her
2s
-642
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
cerUficate, she wiU bo quaUfied to remain in the
hospital L a staff nurse. Her commencing
^^y would be about £25, over and above her
Wd and lodging, rising to £40 when she is
p^otad to the position of staff nurse or ward
"^hHalaries of matrons of hospitals average
from £180 to £250 in accordance with the position
which the hospital holds In some of the larger
hospitals the salary reaches the figure of £300.
Needless to say, before the position of matron
is attained a large amount of experience and
capacity for organisation is exacted (lor
Hospital Almoner, see under Social Work )
General Hints.-A large hospital should always
be selected for training, at any rate a hospital
with over one hundred beds, as the best and
Tost varied experience is to be had at the larger
institutions. In many cases it wiU be found
that there are no vacancies at the first hospital
appUed to. Tliis should not deter a girl from
trxdng at other institutions until she finds one
to which she may be admitted as probationer
The chief hospitals in the large provincial
centres offer training as good in every way as
that which is to be had in London. A girl
should always be careful to study the regaatums
of the hospitals to wliich she apphes. Hohdays
time off duty, and attention to the comfort of
the nurses in the way of housing, separ^^e bed-
rooms, are all unportant matters, and it will be
found that it is at the largest and most important
institutions generally that a nurse wi^ receive
the most consideration m this respect. There is
no room in a work of this kind to give a lengthy
list of hospital training schools with Pf ticulars
as to regulations, &c. ; we have merely dealt with
a few of the larger and better-known institutions
If more detailed information is needed, the
would-be hospital nurse ^^•ill And it m a httle
book edited by Sir Henry Burdett, K.C B.,
K C.V.O., entitled " How to Become a Nurse
and pubUshed at 23. by the Scientific Press, Ltd.,
London, wliich is one of the most handy gmdes
to the nursing profession wliich may be obtainea
The following is a list of some of the cmei
London hospitals, with particulars m regard to
age of admission, time of training, and number
of bods : - , ^ A V
The London Hospital, Whitechapel Road, E.,
contains over 900 bods, and the nursing start,
including private nurses, numbers over 7UU.
Candidates desirous of becoming probationers
must receive a preliminary course of training
for seven weeks at Tredegar House, 29 Bow
Road, E. ,
The full terra of training is two years, and
two years of service are required after two years
of training, the engagement with the hospit^al
thus extending over four years, dating from the
day a probationer enters the hospital.
Ordinary probationers must not be under
iwentythree or over thirty-three years of age.
\ number of paymg probationers are admitted
for training if they are not under twenty -two
nor over forty years of age. Probationers
receive a salary of £12 the first year, and £20
the second year. Staff nurses receive salaries
of from £24 to £27 per annum, sisters £30 to £40
per annum, private nurses £30 to £45.
Guy's Hospital, London.- Over 600 beds.
Time of training tlirce years, after six weeks
instruction at the Hospital's Preliminary Nursing
School (fee £6, Gs.). Salary £8 for the first year,
£12 for the second year, £18 for the third year.
A staff nurse receives a salary of £25 for tho
fourth year, £28 for the fifth year, and £30 for
for the sixth and subsequent years.
St. Bartholomew's Hospital.- Number of beds
680 Time of training four years (three years
training and one year's service), after a pre-
Uminary trial of a month. Apphcants must be
between twenty -three and thirty -five years of
age. A preUminary examination must be passed.
At the end of the first year they have to pass
another examination, and if they do this satis-
factorily they are admitted as staff proba-
tioners" for the rest of the term. Salary £8
the first year, £12 the second year, £20 the
tliird year, and £30 the fourth year Staff
nurses, £35-£50. Paying probationers between
twenty-one and forty years of age are taken^
Great Northern Central Hospital, HoUoway
Road, N.- Over 160 beds. Time of training,
three years after two months' trial. Age ot
admission, twenty-three to thirty-five years.
Salary first year £8, second year £12, third
year £18, fourth year £28. , ^ ^ , ...
King's CoUege Hospital, Portugal Street,
London.-Over 200 beds. Time of training
tliree years ; age of admission, twenty-three to
tliirty. Salary first year none second year
£15, tliird year £20, increasing to £30 in the
sixth year. Sisters' salaries rise to £50.
The above are only a few of the many institu-
tions offering excellent training to probationers.
There are also Children's Hospitals in connection
with which probationers may enter into trainmg
much younger than in the case of the ordinr.ry
hospitals. This is also the case with many of
tho general and other hospitals in the provinces
In Scotland, also, there are a number of good
hospitals at which training may be had. At
he^E^nburgh Royal Infirmary there are nea^ y
900 beds. The training ^f ^'^^^^"! J^.
years, and probationers must be fr^ twenty^
three to thirty-five years of age. bisters
Sng at the a'ge of fifty-five receive a pension
At the Glasgow Royal ^^^'"^'^ '^;ilZ\7ai
500 beds ; the training extends over three years
after the preliminary course. Candidates n^ust
be between twenty-one and thirty Y^^- "//f;;
At the Stobhill Hospital, Glasgow ^^^h^^^.J^^
nearly 2000 beds. Course of training, three
years Age limit, twenty-two to thirty-two.
There are many considerations by which the
MEDICINE AND NUKSING
would-be probationer should be guided in her
choice of a hospital. For instance, if she wishes
to speciaUse in the nursing of any particular
disease she must train at a place devoted to
the treatment of the disease before or after
taking a course of general training. Niorsing
of infectious diseases must be learned at one of
the Fever Hospitals. At the Greenwich Hospital
probationers may specialise in foreign diseases.
Other hospitals devote special attention to
midwifery, whilst Children's Hospitals are best
for the training of those who wish to specialise
in children's illnesses.
Poor Law Infirmaries.- There are now very
good posts to be obtained as nurses in the Poor
Law Infirmaries. Thorough training may be had
at the large infirmaries in London and the larger
provincial towns, which will fit a nurse not only
for tliis special work but for any other branch
of nursing. The age limit for admission of
probationers is usually twenty-one to tliirty-
two years. As in general hospitals, an agreement
of service for from three to four years must
be signed if the probationer has satisfactorily
executed her duties during her two or three
months' trial. Pensions under the Poor Law
Superannuation Act are granted in several cases.
Army and Navy.- A nurse who has completed
her full course of training at a recognised
hospital is eligible for an appointment in either
the miHtary or the naval nursing services.
Candidates for a nursing appointment in Queen
Alexandra's Imperial MiUtary Nursing Service
must be nurses possessing certificates of not less
than three years' training and service in medical
and sm-gical nursing in a civil hospital havin<^
not less than 100 beds. They must be between
twenty-five and thirty-five years of age, of
British parentage, or naturalised British subjects.
The matron-in-chief wiU be required to satisfy
the Nursing Board that, as regards education,
character, and social status, the candidate is a
ht person to be admitted to Queen Alexandra's
Imperial IMilitary Nursing Service. The candi-
date will bo required to fill in the form of
appUcation wliich will be forwarded to her,
and to produce her certificate of registration of
birth ; or, if this is not obtainable, a declaration
made before a magistrate by c-ne of her parents
or former guardians, giving the date 'of her
birth, certificates of training (in the original),
medical certificate, and dental certificate.
Good powers of organisation and administra-
tion are called for on the part of the army
nurse. Tlie system of organisation and the
regulations are quite different from those in
lorce at an ordinary hospital.
AU army nurses must give a period of service
abroad, tliis period varj-ing from three to five
years, according to the climatic conditions.
Women who wish to be rrmy nurses should
apply to the matron -in -chief, Q.A I M N S
Wai Office, Whitehall, S.W. ' ' "'
643
I The rates of pay of Queen Alexandra's Imperial
Nursing Service are as follows :
Staff Nurse.- MO per annum, rising by annual
increments of £2, 10s. to £45.
Sister.- £50, rising by annual increments of
£5 to £65.
Matron.- £75, rising by annual increments of
£.10 to £150.
Principal Matron.- £175, rising by annual
increments of £10 to £205.
Matron-in-Ckief.- £305, rising by annual in-
crements of £15 to £350.
Allowances are also made in respect of board,
washing, uniform, lodging.
The allowances made in respect of board,
washing, uniform, lodging (when quarters are
not provided), and fuel and light are as
follows : -
Board and Washing Allowance. - £39 per
annum at home and £54, 12s. abroad for all
members.
Lodging Allowance.- £il. Is. 3d. for staff
nurses, sisters and matrons ; £54, 15s. for prin-
cipal matrons ; and £73 for matron-in-chief
Fuel and Light.- £11, 3s. for staff nurees
sisters and matrons ; £16, 4s. 3d. for principal
matron ; and £22, 5s. lOd., for matron-in-cliief.
An allowance for uniform of £8 per annum at
home and £9 per annum abroad is made to all
members excepting the matron -in -chief. An
outfit allowance of £8, 8s. is made when pro-
ceeding on active service. Where the necessary
estabUshment of servants is not provided, a
servant allowance is also made.
Charge pay is granted to a matron or sister
at the rate of £30 per annum when in charge of
300 beds or over, £25 per annum when in charge
of 200 to 299 beds, £15 per annum when in
chai-ge of 100 to 199 beds.
Queen Alexandra's Imperial Military Nursing
Service Reserve.- Posts may also be obtained
in Queen Alexandra's Imperial IMilitary Nursing
Service Reserve, which has been organised for
the purpose of keeping a reserve of nurses for
the Imperial IMilitary Nursing Ser\-ice in case
of war. Candidates must be certificated nurses
between twenty-six and forty -five years of age,
having trained for not less than three years "^in
a hospital. They receive the small retaining
fee of £2 per annum, and must be prepared when
called upon to enter service either at home or
abroad, and when on active service work under
the same conditions that govern the Military
Nursing Ser\ice.
Territorial Force Nursing Service.- Certified
nm-ses may also become enrolled as members
of the Territorial Force Nursing Ser^^ce, pro-
vided that if engaged in a hospital they obtain
the consent of the matron. Candidates must
not be under twenty -three years of age. Un-
hke the Army Reserve Nurses, they will not be
called upon to serve abroad, but will be required
to serve in the territorial hospitals in the event
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
644
of the calling out of the Torritorial Force. Tlie
commencing rate of pay upon mobiUsation
would bo £40 per annum for a nurse, £50 for a
sister, and £75 for a matron. Allowances are
made for board, lodging, washing, Hght, and
uniform.
Queen Alexandra's Royal Naval Nursing Service.
Candidates for appointment as nursing sisters
must produce certificates of training for at least
three years at a large cival hospital in the United
Kingdom, in which adult male patients are
recetved for medical and surgical treatment,
such hospital being also provided with a matron
and staff of nursing sisters. Candidates must
be of British parentage or natiu-aUsed British
subjects. The limits of age for appointment
are not under twenty-five and not over thirty-
five. .
Head sisters will, as a rule, be appomted by
selection from the list of nursing sisters. All
nursing sisters will be required to undergo twelve
months' probation before they are confirmed in
their appointments. Head sisters and nursing
sisters are eligible for pension.
The salaries and allowances will be as follows: -
Head Sisters.- At Haslar, Plj-roouth and
Chatham, £125 to £160 by annual increments
of £5. At JIalta, Gibraltar and Hong Kong,
none borne, but an allowance of £10 a year
will be made to the sister acting as head sister
for the time being.
Nursing Sisters.- £^1, 10s to £50, by armual
increments of £2, 10s. Each head sister and
nursing sister will be allowed in addition, in lieu
of board, &c., at home from 15s. to 19s. a week,
and abroad from 21s. to 35s. a week.
Furnished apartments, fuel and lights will be
provided for the staff.
Each head sister and nursing sister will be
pro\'ided with uniform.
A head sister may bo granted leave for forty-
two days in the year, and a nursing sister for
thirty-five days.
Those who wish to become nurses in the Naval
Service should write for full information to the
Director-General, Medical Department of the
Navy, Admiralty, 18 Victoria Street, S.W.
Mental Nursing. - For mental nursing very
special qualifications of character are necessary.
She whose vocation it is to " minister to the
mind diseased " must be able to control her
temper upon all occasions, however sorely it
may be tried ; she must be a good disciplinarian,
firm yet gentle, cheerful and svmpathetic. By
the brightness of her own disposition she should
endeavour to dispel as far as possible the gloom
that settles over many of the clouded minds
with which in the course of her work she must
daily come into contact. No small measure
of responsibility falls to the share of the mental
nurse, and she'^must have sufficient presence of
mind to be able to successfully cope with any
emergency that may arise. In addition she
must have a good sound constitution and a fair
amount of physical strength.
The training of a mental nurse extends gener-
ally over three years. As a rule three months'
preliminary trial is exacted. Examinations are
held at the end of the training period. Where
a mental nurse has already undergone training
in a general hospital, she Avill not bo required
to undergo the full three years' training, and
qualified nurses are often admitted at once as
sisters in the mental hospitals. The age limit
varies with the different institutions. Training
is not to be had at all the asyhuns, although the
system described is almost universally adopted.
Before applying for admission, therefore, the
would-be mental nurse should be careful to
select an institution at which the full terna of
training, concluding with the necessary examina-
tions, may be had.
The rate of pajTnent of probationers is from
£17 to £18 for the first year, increasing to £28 to
£30. Pensions are granted in most cases.
MIDWIFERY
This branch of nursing presents openings for
many women, and has this advantage that the
training can be taken up later in Mfe than in the
case with the training of the ordinary nrn'se
probationer. Midwifery therefore constitutes a
good opening for women of middle age who are
debarred from entering a hospital in the ordinary
way on account of the age hmit. Amongst the
poorer classes midwives attend cases of child-
birth independently of the doctor. Midwives
employed among the higher classes take mater-
nity cases as " monthly nurses " under the
superintendence of a medical man.
It is not advisable for a girl to take up mid-
wifery too young. Twenty-five is a good ac^
at which to enter for the examination, and no
student under the age of twenty -one it accepted
for registration. AH the qualities so necessary
for a nurse are even more necessary for the
midwife. Her work is highly responsible. It
will bo her lot to act in many emergencies, there-
fore she must have plenty of nerve and presence
of mind. Good health is also essential, as the
work is apt to be most arduous, often entailing
long night vigils, when but little sleep can be
taken. .
Training. - The proper training of midwives
has become compulsory since the passing of the
Midwives Act, which came into force in April
1910. Much preventable mortality had occurred
in former times owing to the ignorance of the
women who were deemed competent to take
charge of maternity cases. Happily this state
of things has how been altered, and the com-
pulsory training and registration of those who
take up the work of midwifery has conferred
an inappreciable boon upon the community at
large. The training extends for from three to
MEDICINE AND NURSING
six months, and the cost seldom averages more
than from £10 to £28 or £30. The regulations
for training are di'awn up by the Central Mid-
wives Board, Caxton House, Westminster,
London, S.W., from whom all particulars may
be obtained. It is better, as a rule, to give six
months to the training. Actual attendance at a
number of lying-in cases is necessary. The
training may be taken at a lying-in hospital or
traimng institution recognised by the Board, or
from a certificated midwife. Examinations are
held by the Central Midwives Board every few
montlis at London and some of the provincial
centres. There are a number of training
schools for midwives at which training mav
be had. ^ ^
The following are some of the lying-in hosnitals
at which pupils are taken for midwifery and
monthly nursing : -
City of London Lying-in Hospital, City Koad,
ii..C. The course for midwives is four months,
and for monthly nurses two months. The fee
for midwifery training (including board) for
those who wish to become registered midwives
IS £29, 8s.
Clapliam Maternity Hospital (36 beds). Fees
eleven guineas for three months' traimng, and
less for trained nurses.
General Lying-in Hospital, Lambeth, S.E.
i^ees, twenty-five guineas for a three months'
course.
Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital, Jlaryb-
bone Road, KW. Fees, £35 for five montlis'
traimng. For monthly nurses the fees are £24
for sixteen weeks.
Edinburgh Royal Maternity Hospital, Edin-
burgh. A tliree months' course for the monthly
nursing certificate may be had for £13, 13s. (in-
cluding board, &c.). For the midwifery certi-
ficate there is a six months' course at a fee
of about £22, and a shorter course for trained
nurses for fifteen guineas.
Glasgow Maternity and Women's Hospital.-
Courses of throe, four, or six months may be
taken. Fees, £13, 13s., £15, 15s., and £21
National Lying-in Hospital, Dublin.- Training
SIX months. Fees, £18, 18s. There is a shorter
course for certificated nurses.
At the Midwives' Institute. 12 Buckingham
Street, Strand, London, W.C, classes are hold
to prepare pupils for the examinations. There
are certain societies which offer free training or
traimng at reduced terms for those who wish to
work amongst the poor. Such societies are the
Rural Midwives' Association, the Midwives'
Institute, 12 Buckingham Street, Strand, and
the Association for Promoting the Training and
Supply of Jlidwives.
Prospects. - ^Jlidwives practising in rural dis-
tricts independently of a doctor receive from
5s. to 20s. for each case. Good salaried appoint-
ments may also be had under the Poor Law and
m connection with many of the district nursing
645
associations. The midwife working under the
Queen Victoria Jubilee Nurses' Association will
receive a salary of from £70 to £100 a year.
There are also good openings as teachers of mid-
wifery m several training schools for midx^-ives
hospitals and institutions. The woman who
wishes to practise as a monthly nurse amongst
the middle and liigher classes must have a good
connection amongst medical men. Salaries are
very good, ranging in most cases from £8, 8s. for
the month, and the nurse is often asked to re-
main m attendance on a case longer than this
unless, of course, she has another case to attend.
If she is asked to take up her residence in the
house of her patient before she is actually re-
qmred, it is usual to give her half fees.
Tlie Jlid^-ives Act is also responsible for
another appointment for wliich trained mid-
wives are eligible, i.e. Inspectors of Midwives
under local authorities. The salaries of midwife
inspectors are good, ranging from £100 to £300.
PRIVATE NURSING
Private nursing may be undertaken either
m connection with a private nursing institution
or hospital, in co-operation with other nurses,
or by a nurse alone.
In institution work the nm-se joins the insti-
tution for a cf>rtain period, and she is sent out
to attend private cases by the superintendent or
matron, who receives the fees for her services
granting her a yearly salary of about £30. In
private nursing in connection with a hospital,
the nurse is retained on the staff of the hospital
being sent out to attend private cases. Her
board, lodging, and uniform are pro\-ided, in
addition to salary. They are not always pro-
vided m the case of a private nursing home,
bhe may also join a Nurses' Co-operation, in which
case she wiU be able to draw her own earnings,
less a percentage of 7* per cent, to be paid to the
superintendent. It requires a great amount cf
energy and hard work to succeed as a private
nm-se - apart from any nursing institution. A
niu-se must have a very good connection amongst
medical men with large practices.
Although tliis work is remunerative there are
several disadvantages to be faced when nursing
IS undertaken by a woman single-handed. Tliere
may, for instance, be seasons wlien little or no
mu-sing is to be had, followed by a period of
exceptional acti\dty. The nurse mil have to
fall back upon her savings (if she have any)
during the fii-st period, and, however willing and
energetic she may be, she will be unable to attend
every case for which her ser\-ices mav be sought
in the second period. The nm-sing problem is,
therefore, apart from cases of regular patients
amongst chronic invalids, a very difficult one to
tackle alone, and for tliis reason it is always
better in the long run to join a good nvirsing
home or Nurses' Co-operation.
THE W03>IAN'S BOOK
646
District Nursing.- Perhaps tliis constitutes one
of the most laudable branches of the nursing
profession, as the district nurse undertakes the
nursing of the poor in their own homes. The
best work is obtainable in connection with the
societies founded for the organisation of district
nursing, cliief amongst wliich is the Queen
Victoria JubUee Institute for Nurses, 58 Victoria
Street, London, S.W. There is also a branch in
Edinburgh at 29 Castle Terrace. Three years
training in a general hospital is necessary, with
sis montlis' extra training in district ^ork.
After tliis an examination must be passed, and
the successful candidate is appointed at a com-
mencing salary of £70 a year, or £30 a year with
board and lodging and uniform, in towns where
there are several nurses working and a house is
pro\-ided for them. In these circumstances the
nurses are under the direction of a superintendent,
who has a higher salary than the ordinary nurses.
There are many other district nursing societies,
including the Ranyard Nurses (see also under
London Biblewomen and Nurses' Mission) and
those of the Church Army. Salaries vary
according to the different associations.
Village Nurses.- Tliis may be called a branch
of district nursing, as it also comprises the nursing
of the poor in their own homes. Village nurses
are employed in the more remote %-iUage dis-
tricts. Only a short course of training in general
nursing and midwifery is necessary.
Educated women would do well to go m for
" district " in preference to " \-illage " nursing, as
the ranks of the village nurses are largely filled
by women of the cottage class who have taken
a course of training and work in connection with
an institution, such as the Ockley Nursing
Association, which has been organised for the
nursing of the poor in their own homes by
members of their own class.
Massage and Electricity.- Women may spccial-
iso with advantage in this branch of nursing.
To married women or widows, or those who
through some reason are debarred from com-
pleting a full course of hospital training, it should
especially appeal as a means of livelihood, as
the cost of training is small, averaging from
£10, 10s. and upwards, the course usually extend-
ing over three months.
Those who wish to take up massage must have
that special aptitude for the work which char-
acterises the successful masseuse. They must
also possess good health, as the constant practice
of massage means a certain tax upon the strength.
The most successful masseuses are mostly
those who have trained as nurses and specialised
in massage at the completion of their training.
In any case a good knowledge of nursing is a
great help. I^Iassage may be learned at one of
the many physical training colleges, from medical
men, or from trained masseuses. Much valuable
experience may be gained in a hospital for
paralysis and nervous diseases where massage
and electric treatment are largely practised.
Examinations in massage are held and certifi-
cates awarded to successful candidates by the
Incorporated Society of Trained Masseuses,
12 Buckingham Street, Strand, London, from
whom all particulars may be received.
The masseuse who sets up in practice for her-
self will need to have a good comiection amongst
medical men, for nowadays few people wiJ
employ a masseuse who has not been recom-
mended by their doctor. (For Face Massage,
see p. 450.) • u *.>
Nurses in the Colonies.- Those who wish to
obtain work as nurses in the colonies should
apply to the Secretary-, Colonial Nursing Associa-
tion, Imperial Institute, London, S.W., tor a
form of application. There are good prospects
in the colonies for trained nurses who have also
taken the midwifery certificate. Salaries range
in most cases from £60 per annum, incluomg
board and lodging.
WOMEN IN HORTICULTURE AND IN AGRICULTURE
Not? the least striking f eatiire of the general progress made by women in employments which were at
one time deemed man's sole prerogative is to be seen in the realms of horticulture and agriculture.
Women now take up with success all branches of farming and gardening. Special colleges are
devoted to the training of women in these outdoor pursuits, and it is a significant fact that the
horticultural college at Swanley, which was first accessible to both men and women students, now
opens its doors to women only.
The vvoman who is fond of an outdoor life need not now be debarred from following the bent
of her inchnation by pursuing a remunerative and congenial outdoor occupation. Everything is
at hand to facilitate her progress. Training is within easy reach. Old-time tradition has been set at
naught by the success of many women pioneers, and the reaction which has set in during the last
few years in favour of healthy outdoor sports and the benefits of an athletic training for women and
girls in general, has resulted in an universal recognition of the fact that women may engage in most
horticultural and agricultural pursuits without incurring that stigma of " unwomanliness " so often
hurled in former times at the unfortunate woman who had an idea beyond her needlework, her
cooking, and the management of her household.
LADY GARDENERS
Amongst the many outdoor occupations avail-
able to the woman worker, that of gardening
must take a prominent place. There is at
present a great demand for really capable
gardeners and garden designers, a demand which
is no doubt due to the general revival of the art
of gardening, or rather should it be said of " art
in gardening," which has taken place aU over
the country within recent years. Public gardens
are planned and laid out with care and taste,
large private gardens are designed with the
utmost attention to beauty and artistic arrange-
ment ; even the little suburban garden is con-
spicuous by its perfectly kept piece of green
lawn and the tasteful arrangement of the borders
and shrubberies. Schools of gardening are being
opened in aU parts of the couiitry for training
gardeners, and, what is most important from
the point of view of the voman worker, the
demand for good women gardeners in particular
is steadily growing, difficulty being found to
fill a number of the posts available.
Needless to say, a woman must be well
trained if she wishes to succeed as a gardener.
Gardening is not to be learned in a year. For
ordinary purposes at least two years' training in
a good gardening college should be taken, and
this should be followed up by a year's practi-
cal experience as assistant to a head gardener
or market gardener. If possible, three years
should be given to the training. By the
third year a woman should have formed some
"lefinite idea as to the particular branch of
gardening she wishes to take up, so that during
the last year of training her studj^ can be cen-
tralised upon the particular branch selected.
A well-trained woman may succeed either
as a garden designer, an expert adviser upoa
gardening, a head gardener, a jobbing gardener,
a market gardener, or a practical teacher of
gardening. She must, of course, be guided in
her selection according to her individual circum-
stances.
Schools of Horticulture. - There are many good
horticultural colleges and schools all over the
country at which women may be trained £is
gardeners. At Swanley Horticultural College,
Kent, training may be had in everj^ branch of
horticulture. The college, which was formerly
open to both men and women, is now restricted
to women students only. Tlie full course ex-
tends over tliree yeajs, and instruction in the
practical as well as in the scientific side of garden-
ing is given. The fees, including board and lodg-
ing, are from £80 a year. Students are prepart d
for the examinations of the Royal Horticultural
Society and of the Board of Education.
At Studley Castle, Warwickshire, a complete
training may be had in every branch of horti-
culture and agriculture. Tlie college is situated
about 2J miles from Studley station, Midland
Railway, on a branch line between Birmingham
and Evesham. It is the aim of this institution
(1) To provide a training for girls in practical
market gardening, including buj'ing, growing, .
packing, and selling, so that they may be able
to conduct a business of their own on sound
financial lines.
647
648
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
(2) To train women who will bo landowners
to take a practical and intelligent interest in
their estate and gardens.
(3) To train women to tako posts both as
forewomen and head gardeners.
Instruction is given in every branch of
practical gardening, inclucUng French gardemng,
dairy work, poultry and bee-keeping, fruit
bottling and preserving, cai-pentering, and a
special course is also given in domestic economy.
Pupils are prepared for the Royal Horti-
<:ultural Society's examinations, the National
Dairy Diploma, and the examinations of the
British Dairy Farmers' Association.
Pees. - Full training with board and residence
at the college : -
Horticulture.
Dairy Work and
Poultry.
Domestic Economy.
1 Cubicle, £60 to £S0 a year.
I Study Bedroom, £100, £120,
j and £150 a year.
Bee-keeping is optional and may be combined with
either of the above courses, at an additional charge of
£5, 5s. a year.
I Cubicle from £20
[ Study Bedroom, £30 to £40
f Cubicle from £12
I Study Bedroom, £18 to £24
Short Courses of Ten Weeks i ,
Short Courses of Six Weeks/ ,
Fruit Bottling and Preserving :-
Two weeks' Course, including Board and
Lodgings £5 5 0
To Resident Students 0 10 6
Carpentering :-
£3, 3s. a year or £1, 10s. a term.
Use of Microscopes 5s. a year.
" Gardening Tools 5s. a year.
" Carpentering Tools . . . • 5s. a year.
Laundry (exclusive of Silk and Muslin Blouses and Skirts),
£2, 23. a term.
Glynde School of Gardening. - A thorough
training in practical gardening may be had at
the Hon. Frances Wolsey's School for Lady
Gswdeners at Glynde, near Lowes, Sussex. For
the woman who means to take up gardening
as a Uvolihood no bettor or more complete
training could bo desired than that to be had
at this school, which possesses the additional
advantage of a minimum of expense in fees.
These amount to £10 per annum for practical
instruction, with £2 extra for attendance at
lectures. Elementary science courses and pre-
paration for the Royal Horticultural Examina-
tion may be arranged for slightly higher expenses.
Lodgings conveniently near the Gardens, whore
several studonts board together, can be secured
at 1 7s. a week for board and residence.
The chief characteristic of the school is the
feature made of practical teaching. It is
worked on the basis of a private garden, and not
a school. Attention is given to the routine of
garden work, including the care of grans, paths,
and beds; mowing, sweeping, and general
tidiness ; digging, trenching, and other ground
operations ; raising plants from seeds and
cuttings, their subsequent treatment ; the
cultm-e of herbaceous alpine plants and roses,
forcing violets, Dutch bulbs, &c. ; watering,
ventilation, and other points of glass-house
management. Students are also taught fruit-
growing and how to pack flowers and vegetables
for market. Only a small number of students
are taken, and these are required to furnish the
highest references before obtaining admission to
the school.
Royal Botanic Society's School. - At the
Royal Botanic Society's School of Gardening,
Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, instruction is
given in every branch of gaxden work. Tlie
cotirse, which lasts three years, includes both
the practical and the scientific side of horticul-
ture. The Royal Botanical Society's diploma
is awarded to students who successfully pass
their examination. The course extends over
three years. The fees for the first year are
£20 ; for the second year £15 ; and for the third
year £10.
Edinburgh School of Gardening, Corstoi-phine,
Edinburgh. - At this school, which is situated
about two miles from Edinburgh, instruction is
given in all the branches of practical and theo-
retical gardening. Students are prepared for
the Royal Horticultvxral Society's Examination.
Students are non-resident. They can, however,
obtain rooms in the village at very moderate
charges, or go backwards and forwards from
Edinburgh every day. The fees arc £15 a year.
Courses in horticulture, botany, chemistry
are 5s. extra per term. Students take part in
every detail of practical work - hoeing, digging,
and preparing the ground, planting out, pruning,
potting, care of glass houses, &c., &c. The
course extends over two years.
The Head Gardener.- At a meeting on the
subject of " Women in Horticulture) " held in
connection with the " Women's Congress " at
the Japanese Exhibition, Shepheru's Bush, i.i
July 1910, Miss Jessie Smith, a well-known
authority upon horticulture, laid stress upon
the fact that to succeed in gardening a woman
nmst rise above the level of the labouring
gardener. There is not a living to be made in
mere manual gardening only. A woman will
never be able to earn enough by manual gardening
to keep herself in any comfort. Her only chance
is to be a head gardener with working men under
her, or to specialise in one of the other branches
already enumerated. To achieve this end a
power of organisation and initiative must form
part of her qualifications, and her training must
bo a thoroughly practical one. When she has
completed her college training she should have
at least a year's practical experience, even if
she has to pay fees to a head gardener or a
market gardener for the privilege of obtaining
tliis experience by practical work under his or
WOMEN IN HORTICULTURE AND IN AGRICULTURE
649
her direction, or if she has to make an arrange-
ment to give hor work " on mutual terms."
The head gardener mu^ possess the power
of controlling the men (or women) under her,
making them work well and willingly for her.
Above all, she must be familiar with every
branch of the work, and know how it is to be
done, before she can take it upon herself to direct
others. The importance of a period of practical
work after completing her college training
cannot be too gi'eatly emphasised. Six months
or more spent in travelhng in order to study the
gardening methods of other countries will also
be found of the utmost value. The commencing
salary of a head gardener (resident) averages
£30 a 5'ear, increasing to £100. The head
gardener on a large estate is usually given a
cottage, rent free, and a right to a portion of
the garden jjroduce.
Garden Designing or Landscape Gardening. -
Garden designing, or, as it is sometimes called,
" landscape gardening," may be said to be one
of the highest branches of the art of gardening.
It is a branch, however, which requires very
thorough training and an amount of patience,
perseverance, and hard work on the part of
the woman who wishes to qualify as a garden
designer. She must be prepared also for her
training to be extended over a longer period than
that necessary for other branches of gardening.
To thoroughly quaUfy herself she should first
take a course of at least two years at a good
horticultural col^^ge, during which time she
should acquire a good knowledge of land survey-
ing. After this course she should devote at least
two years to the study of architectural design and
building construction. It must be remembered
that the garden designer has to deal with vast
stretches of ground, not with miniature little
plots. Large public gardens, and the gardens
belonging to the large private lando'mier, have
all to be designed and planned in keeping with
a certain architectural system ; the grounds of
a house have to be in keeping with the archi-
tecture of the house they surround. Summer
houses and other structures have to bo built.
More than a passing knowledge of ai'cliitecture
is therefore of considerable importance. Six
montlis of a year spent in travelling upon the
Continent, studying the various styles of gardens
in the different countries, will form a beneficial
finish to the training of the garden designer.
Prospects. - No woman should attempt to go
in for garden designing, or, as it is often called,
" landscape gardening," unless she has a certain
amount of capital to tide her over the inevitable
period of waiting involved before hor work
becomes known. Women landscape gardeners
are employed by many of the municipal autho-
rities, and once a woman has obtained a post
of the kind she .rill probably keep it, and for
this reason there are not many openings in this
direction. Wlien starting on her own account
a woman should advertise for work in the
gardening and other papers. Sometimes it will
be a long time before her first order comes, but
when it does come it will be in most cases the
forerunner of others.
It is, of course, much easier for a woman with
a large social connection and influential friends
to get on in tliis direction ; apart from the
chances of work from municipal authorities,
which are few, the unknown woman with few
friends will find it a very hard struggle. No
woman similarly situated should begin -nith
landscape gardening alone. She should start
nurseries, or if she have sufficient capital, a
market garden, and gradually develop the
garden designing in connection with her other
business. WTien once a garden designer has
established a connection the work is remunera-
tive. Fees from £1 to 4 or 5 guineas are given
at consultation, and a lump sum when the work
has been carried out, varying ^ extent of the garden scheme. Garden designing
brings bigger fees than any other branch of
gardening, and where the work is regular a
good income may be made. Work of the kind
is apt to be uncertain, however, excepting in
the case of municipal and other large appoint-
ments, and some initial capital is absolutely
necessary. A woman's prospects will depend
entirely upon her capabilities. The field of
labour is Umited, but up to the present there
has been very little competition, and therefore
a clever woman should be able to make a good
income if she is prepared to spend at least four
or five years upon training.
The training, if it extends over foiu* to five
years, will be faii-ly costly. £80 to £100 a year
represents the average charge for board, lodging,
and training at the big horticultural colleges ;
to this wiU have to be added fees for special
architectural courses. Needless to say, a woman
should not train as a garden designer unless
she has that sense of the artistic and taste for
art generally which must characterise tliis as
well as any other form of designing.
Miss Lorrie G Dunnington, of Belgra\-ia
Cliambers, 72 Victoria Street, S.W., an expert
garden designer, takes a limited number of pupils
for training. It is essential that the pupils
should have had a prc%-iou6 training in prac-
tical horticulture. The course, wliich extends
over tliree years, includes garden design,
plan drawing, surveying, architectural design,
building construction, and general office routine.
The fees are £80 per annum, for no less than
three years, or £100 for one year's training.
Two years at a good horticultural college, and
three years' training under an expert designer
like Miss Dunnington, who can give the neces-
sary instruction on surveying, architectm-al
design, building construction, should constitute
an admirable training for the woman garden
designer.
650
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The Expert Adviser.- There are many people
who cannot afford to employ a garden architect,
but who are at the same time glad to have
expert ad\-ice on various problems which may
crop up in regard to their garden- where to
plant new shubberies, plan out artistic borders,
lay down a now lawn, make provision for a
tennis court, and how to make certain necessary
alterations without interfering with the general
garden scheme. In these circiunstances they
are glad to be able to consult an expert, and
a woman who establishes a good connection
as such will find the employment a lucrative
one. She must be able both to advise on matters
upon which she is consulted, and, if her advice is
adopted, to see that the work is properly carried
out in accordance with her ideas. A good
connection socially is an advantage for women
who %^-ish to make a livelihood in this way.
Jobbing Gardening. - This is the branch of the
gajdoning profession which pro\'ides most scope
for the good all round woman worker whatever
her social status. It is, in fact, the branch
which is most accessible to all. It is particularly
suitable for the girl or woman whose circum-
stances require that she should live at home, going
out by the day to do the work. The best scope
for the jobbing gardener is to be found in the
suburbs in the neighbourhood of large towns.
She should begin by sending carefully worded
personal letters to the owners of houses with
gardens, offering her services ; also she should
insert an advertisement in the local paper. She
can begin by herself charging 5s. a day for her
work. As her clientele increases she will be
able to employ a boy for the rougher work,
and she can gradually raise her charges to
7s. 6d. and then 10s. 6d. a day. As her work
increases she will require to employ men or
women gardeners; the latter coiild in many
ceises be pupils, sending them to different houses
under her supervision when her employers
become too numerous for her to give each one
her personal attendance every day. Quite a
reasonable income may be made in this way.
A good business woman and a good organiser
will soon find that she has as much work as she
can do with. She will be entrusted with the
buying of plants on her employer's behalf, and
in many cases will bo able to start a small nursery
garden in connection with the business. On
the whole jobbing gardening presents the most
satisfactory branch of gardening work open
to the average woman, and it has this advan-
tage that the initial outlay upon the business is
small, and work may soon bo had by those who
set about getting it in the right way. A girl
will require at least two years' training at a good
gardening school and a further year's practical
experience with a head gardener before she
should undertake work of this kind. It is work
in the course of which she will be constantly
learning something new, and aa her connection
grows it will be work which will require organ-
ising power before everytlung else, and will
give her experience which will stand her in
good stead in any other higher branch of garden-
ing which she may afterwards undertake. The
outlay on training will not be great. Her
training is best taken at gardening schools like
Glynde College, Sussex, where a feature is made
of practical work, and the fees do not amount
to more than £10 in the year.
Market Gardening. - Unless a woman has
capital it will be practically useless for her to
start as a market gardener, as this is a business
which requires a large amount of initial out-
lay before any returns can be expected. The
capital to be expended should be supplemented
also by a small income upon which a woman
can live until her business gets beyond the
" making expenses stage." She should have
enough to keep herself for at least four years,
or else it will be quite useless for her to hope to
earn her hvelihood in this way. Only a woman
who is prepared to work early and late, at all
hours and in all weathers, with little inter-
mission in the way of holidays, and who has
had a thorough training at a good horticultural
college and at least two years' experience of
practical work under a market gardener, can
hope to make market gardening a success. In
addition to this she must have good business
ability, a knowledge of the best markets for
her goods, and an abundance of patience and
perseverance, without which her enterprise must
needs spell failure.
An analysis of the initial outlay she will have
to make will cause many a woman to think
before she makes up her mind to embark upon
this career. To begin with, land is dear. She
will require at least two acres. Then she will
require sheds for packing and potting ; also
houses will have to be built and equipped with
heating apparatus ; money will have to be
expended upon stock. Anything from £800 to
£1000 will represent the sum to be expended.
The woman who has a small sum to invest
and who possesses a thorough knowledge of her
work, combined with business abiUty, will be able
to make not a fortune, but quite a satisfactory
income out of market gardening. She miist, of
course, be guided by several important considera-
tions in the selection of locality. Her market
garden must be properly situated in a thriving
locality close to a railway station to decrease
costs and facilitate transit, and near a good
market for her goods. None but a good business
woman can hope to make market gardening pay
and the woman who has not received a thorough
training in gardening, and who does not possess
good business ability, cannot hope to succeed,
and she should give up any idea of entering
upon a business which requires the utmost skiU
and care in management before it can be brought
to a profit-earning basis.
WOMEN IN HORTICULTURE AND IN AGRICULTURE
651
French Gardening. - This is a branch of garden-
ing which has come into prominence of late,
though in England as yet the art is practically
in its infancy. Once the system in this country
is well developed, it promises to become the
most paying form of market gardening, and a
few women have already taken it up with
success.
It must be remembered, however, that if
capital is necessary for the ordinary market
gardening, it is doubly so for French gardening,
wliich involves a much greater initial outlay
upon glass, straw, matting, manure, &c., &c.
Hard unceasing work will also be involved,
and the cost of laboiir will have to be reckoned
with. A woman wishing to start a business of
the kind should begin in a very small way, and
extend her business as opportunity offers. No
more thaii a quarter of an acre of glass should
be attempted in the first instance, and she will
require the help of at least two men.
The position of the garden is of the utmost
importance. If the venture is to be a successful
one, the commercial aspect of the case, such as
proximity to favourable markets and to the
railway station, must not be lost sight of. A
good water-supply is all -essential, to say nothing
of an abundance of manure.
In conclusion let it be said that, apart from all
question of capital, the woman who has not had
a thorough training in this branch of horti-
culture, and who has not sound business capa-
bilities, shoxild not embark upon an enterprise
of the kind.
Training may be had at most of the horti-
cultural colleges, a special feature being made
of it at Studley Castle, Warwickshire, and at the
Royal Botanic Society's School of Gardening,
Regent's Park.
Teachers of Gardening and Nature Study. - A
rapidly growing field for the woman horticul-
turist may be found in the realms of teaching.
A great reaction has taken place in favoiir of the
teaching of nature study in our schools. It has
been realised that to make a child take an
interest in the animal, bird, and plant Ufe
around her, inculcating at the same time in the
little mind a love of nature, nature study is
of all forms of teaching the most suitable for the
little ones, and the most likely to be productive
of good results. With the reahsation of this
fact has come a corresponding demand for
teachers of gardening and of nature study,
and it ib a demand which at present exceeds
the supply. So great is the demand for nature
study teaching that ordinary teachers now
often find it necessary to take a course of
instruction in nature study in order that they
may impart at least the elements of it to their
pupils. There is also a steady increasing
demand in secondary schools for " Gardening
Mistresses," who, in addition to practical outdoor
work, are competent to impart a knowledge
of the scientific side of gardening. The woman
who has taken her fuU horticultural cotirso at
one of the best horticultural colleges is most likely
to obtain a post as teacher of geirdening and
nature study, as when vacancies occur applica-
tions for teachers to fill them are usually sent
to the chief colleges. For school teachers who
wish to extend their knowledge of nature study
for the purpose of tuition, the Swanley Horti-
cultural College, Kent, have instituted a special
nature study course. The lessons are given out
of doors in the months of July and August, and
students are taken on occasions into the country
so that they may study birds, pond life, insects,
wild fiowers, trees and grasses in their different
environment. The fee for a fortnight's course is
£5, 5s., inclusive of tuition, bo£ird and lodging,
and expenses of excursions.
In addition to employing gardening and nature
study teachers, several large schools are gi\'ing
over their gardens to the care of women gardeners.
For a resident woman head gardener in a school
£30 or £35 a year is considered a good initial
salary.
FLORISTS
A florist's business is one admirably suitable
for women of taste and refinement, but at the
same time it is by no means the simple under-
taking usually imagined. It is essentially what
is known as a " season " business ; that is to
say, there is every year a period of very great
activity, and during this time the florist has
to toil from early in the morning until late at
night ; there is no restricting the work to a
set period of hours per day. No woman should
embark upon this business, therefore, who is
not prepared for hard and strenuous work. To
make a successful florist a woman must not
only possess the art of arranging flowers to the
best advantage ; she must also be proficient in
all the mechanical parts of the work. A thorough
training is absolutely necessary, and this can
be obtained in no better way than by practical
work at a florist's, where all the details, such
as wiring, making up, packing, can be learned.
A thorough knowledge of bujdng, keeping
accounts, drawing out estimates is essential, and
business abihty is not the least attribute of a
woman who wants to start for herself in this
trade. She should be able to keep a keen eye
upon costs, reducing them to a minimum,
thereby increasing her profits. She must also
show great discrimination in the choice of a
locality for her business, seeing that there is no
undue competition in her immediate neighbour-
hood.
As a general rule, a woman should only train
to become a florist if she wishes to set up in
business for herself. The earnings of florists'
employees are uncertain, as often they are only
employed during the busy season, and then their
652
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
pay seldom averages more than 35s. to £2 a
week.
A florist's business can bo made to include
many profitable side issues. For instance, a
florist may undertake the care of the conserva-
tories, window -boxes, and even the small gardens
of the locality. For this, of course, a practical
horticultural training is necessary in addition
to the training in ordinary florist's work.
Training. - Training may be had at the
Women's London Gardening Association, 62
Lower Sloane Street, S.W., where the instruction
is practical in every way. The fees are £25
for the full course. Many florists will take
lady pupils upon payment of a satisfactory
premium - £20 to £30 is a very usual sum.
WOMEN AS FARMERS
By K. M. Courtauld, Principal of Colne Engaine
Farm, Earls Colne, Essex
In writing about farming as an occupation
for women, I am faced with a difficultj^ at the
outset. I have myself been farming for over
twenty-one years, and I have found the free,open-
air life so enjoyable and the work so intensely
interesting, each day and each season bringing
an endless variety of occupations, that I should
Uke to recommend the life to every woman
who is fond of the country.
But, on the other hand, I have known of so
many failures ! Not only of women, but also of
men who have taken small farms with high hopes
which have been doomed to disappointment.
I have seen debts and difficulties accumulating,
the land deteriorating, the place getting more
and more out at elbows, the tenant more and
more depressed and embarrassed, and at last
the struggle is given up and he leaves the farm
thorouglily out of heart and having lost liis
money.
In the face of such examples I feel the responsi-
bility of advising any woman to take up farming
without serious consideration.
It seems to me there are three essentials
without which it is hopeless to think of farming
successfully : -
First. - A thorough practical knowledge and
experience of the business.
Second. - Sufficient capital.
Third. - The capacity for hard and persevering
work and country tastes.
I believe that, given these qualifications, a
woman is more fitted to take a large farm than
a small one. I am not, of course, speaking of
small holdings worked as market gardens,
poultry or fruit farms, but of ordinaiy farming ;
these are busine.sses in themselves. The only
persons likely to make a small farm pay are men
who have begun life as a^i cultural labourers,
who have worked on the land since they left
school. I know several such men who have
got together a little money and taken a small
farm. They work harder and longer hours than
they did when they were working for wages,
and they are probably no better off, if as well.
Their standard of hving is that of the labourers
in the district, but they like to feel that they
are their own masters, and they struggle on,
working ten or twelve hours a day in summer
and as long as it is light in winter, living on
twelve or foui-teen shillings a week. And if a
stroke of bad luck comes to thorn, they have no
reserve fund to draw upon ; so unless they take
the hat round amongst their neighbours for
help, they are reduced to great straits.
Now this is not a Mfe I could recommend to
any woman, or, indeed, to any man, who had
not been used to field work from cliildhood.
I can see no reason why a woman should not
manage a large farm - where brains are more
important than muscles, whore the actual manual
laboiu- is done by farm hands, and where her
province is to direct and overlook others, to
plan out the cropping and working of the land,
to see that the stock are properlj' cai'ed for, to
buy and sell to the best advantage, in short,
to do the work of a yeoman or gentleman farmer.
In this she would find plenty of scope for all
her energies. Much depends on attention to
detailj on strict economy both of money and
labom*.
There is an old saying that " the foot of the
master is the best fertilise)- for the land " -
certainly the more personal supervision the
master can give the greater will be the chances
of success.
I have said that one of the first essentials to
success in farming is a thorough practical
knowledge of the business, and I shall bo pro-
bably asked how this is to be obtained. Now
I am quite a believer in scientific fanning, but
science will not take the place of practice,!
experience, although it will bo most useful in
supplementing it. I have heard of students
who have learnt all about the manuring of roots
and who could tell you the exact proportions of
the various artificial manures which gave the
best results, and yet who did not know a swede
from a marigold. That sort of knowledge is
useless. At least two years spent on a farm
would be required to get an idea of the general
routine of farm work. You want to learn by
experience when a field has been properly
ploughed, when it is in a fit condition to sow,
and, if it is too rough or too foul, what to do
to bring it round. You want to know what is
amiss when a crop is not gi-owing as it should
do ; is it suffering because the soil is poor or
wants draining, or because the field has not
been properly ploughed and harrowed before-
hand, or has the corn been attacked by \Tireworm
or some such pest ?
You want to make yourself a judge of stock
- go to market week after week, and as each
animal comes into the ring, make a guess what
WOMEN IN HORTICULTURE AND IN AGRICULTURE
653
it will fetch, and see how near you are to the
price at which the auctioneer knocks it down.
Go to the Corn Exchange and see the various
samples offered for sale and hear what the buyer
has to say. Notice how one sample is not
clean, i.e. has weed seeds and inferior grains
and rubbish mixed with the good corn ; another
is slightly " clung " or damp ; another is too
soft or a little fusty in smell ; or, in the case of
barley, how it has been spoilt by the grains
being cracked by bad thrashing.
By all means attend classes on farming
subjects, read books and agricultural papers.
I think a course of veterinary instruction would
be most valuable, and pick up as much informa-
tion as you can, but do not leave out the practical
work, which is the most important.
If you can learn how to do the work yourself
so much the better. If you can plough or milk
yourseK, you are in a better position to find
fault with your man if he does Ms work badly,
in the same way that a lady who can cook is
better able to tell her cook where she has made
a mistake.
It always appears to me that the girls who
would be most likely to succeed as farmers,
and for whom it would be easiest to obtain
the necessary experience, are the daughters of
farmers or squires, or landowners living on their
own property. These girls are already used
to a coiintry Ufe ; they must have picked up a
good deal of knowledge of farming subjects, and
they might even be able to start in a compara-
tively small way wliile dtiU living at home under
the guidance of their fathers or brothers.
Perhaps I may say a few words as to how I
started farming. I remember when I was still
at school telling my father I would like to be
a farmer, and he took the suggestion about as
seriously as if I had said I sho\ald like to go
into the army. However, some years later
he had the farm where I am now living thrown
upon his hands through the tenant leaving, and
he engaged a neighbouring farmer whom we
had all .known well for many years to act as his
bailiff. As my father bad no time to give to
farming, he agreed that I should go over to the
farm frequentl}' and see how things were prosper-
ing, and this I used to do two or three times a
week for some years. This is how 1 first got
an insight into the business of farming. Some
time later when I was able to leave home he
handed Ihe property over to me, rent free, and
made me a present of the stock to make what
I could of it, and I have been living there and
farming the land ever since.
For the first three or four years I still had
some help from our old bailiff, who was managing
other land for mj' father ; later on I engaged a
working bailiff on my own account. I cannot
say that I have made money out of farming,
but I have found that it has provided me not
only with congenial work and interest, but with
many advantages. For instance, I have my
house and garden rent free ; I get com and hay
for my horses, milk, butter, eggs, poultry, fruit,
and vegetables at cost price. Then there are
excellent opportunities for sport : I have the
shooting over the land and plenty of room for
summering hunters. I have also done much to
improve the property. Amongst other things
I have planted a great deal of fruit which bids
fair to be the most paying crop I grow.
The question of capital is an important one.
A very fair allowance is £10 per acre, and this
should be allowed for the farm alone. No
woman shoiild start farming unless she has
enough to live on economically for a year or
two, and that in addition to the amount in-
vested in the farm, as there is nothing more
disadvantageous to successful farming than
being cramped for money. To be unable to
engage extra labour when it is particularly
needed, to be obliged to seU produce at a poor
price because one cannot afford to hold it, is
courting failure.
I have said that one essential to success is
a capacity for work and country tastes. I
think many women who have lived a great
part of their lives in town, and who think with
delight of beautiful summer days spent in the
country, imagine that they would enjoy life on
a farm witliout reaUy grtisping what it means.
Ail of us enjoy going out into the fields on a
beautiful spring or summer morning, but it is
a different thing to spend daj' after day working
in sodden yards trjdng to make your stock as
warm and comfortable as possible, or walking
over the heavy fields with several pounds of
clay on each boot, coming in wet through
perhaps twice in one day. It is no use for a
woman who does not like getting up early, who
cannot stand the sun without a sunshade, and
who will not wear thick boots, taking to farming ;
and at the best one must be prepared for many
reverses and discouragements. Depending as
he does upon the weather, the farmer too often
sees his most carefully laid plans brought to
nought. If you cannot get on with the work
you most want to do, you must look out for
some other job. If the weather prevents your
sowing one sort of crop, you must have patience
and hope to get in something else later on.
Tliere is no business that requires greater fore-
sight, adaptability.and patient care than farming,
and yet it often seems as if every outsider
thinks he can teach the farmer his business, if
you judge from the extraordinary suggestions
and criticisms you sometimes read in the papers.
One verj' amusing reference to women as farmers
in England was made in the newspai>ers not
long ago. Tlie writer had been speaking of
Miss Binnie-Clark's farm in Canada, and goes
on to say, " Women of education at any rate
cannot compete with men agriculturalists in.
England, because they cannot (according to
654
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
convention) go and pinch fat botists at markets
and bargain for them over pints of beer in
smoky inn tap -rooms. But in Canada there is
no necessity for them to do business in that
way."
Well, I can assure the writer that there is
certainly no more necessity in England than in
Canada. Wliether tliis was the way English
farmers did their business fifty or sixty years
ago I cannot say, but it would now be quite as
true to say that the country gentleman of the
present day dines at four o'clock and then sits
and drinks port wine until he falls imder
the table !
Tlie idea that a woman cannot attend market
or go to sales and buy on her own account is
quite erroneous. I may say that I have done
so for many years and have never met with
anything but the greatest courtesy and con-
sideration from my brother farmers, and if I
have asked for help or advice it has never been
refused me.
Another objection that has been raised to
women farming is that they will not be able to
manage farm labourers. This also is quite
untrue. You would probably find that the
same woman who would make a good mistress
to her indoor servants would bo equally able
to manage farm men. Be careful to be abso-
lutely fair and just to all alike ; never show
favouritism. If you have to find fault speak
out strongly, the more forcibly the better, but
do not nag or worry about trifles. Agricultural
labourers have some odd prejudices and super-
stitions, and are generally reserved with strangers.
Every one outside their own coimty is a " fvir-
riner," and at first is looked at with a certain
amount of suspicion, but after hving amongst
them for a time you get to understand them.
With regard to wages, hours of work, &c., it
is best to follow the custom of the neighbourhood,
as the men are apt to resent innovations, even
when they appear to you to be to their advantage.
In conclusion I should hke to advise any
woman who intends to start farming to make
up her mind beforehand exactly what branch
she would prefer. Perhaps the most paying at
the present time is a dairy farm having a good
milk round ; it is more profitable and far less
troublesome to soil milk direct than to make
cheese or butter, although sometimes the surplus
milk in summer may be profitably turned into
cheese or butter.
Some farms are particularly suitable for
fattening bullocks or rearing young stock ;
others are noted as good sheep farms. I myself
think an arable farm, where all kinds of com
can be grown and a few stock of all sorts kept,
is the most interesting. Where one is not
dependent on one special branch there is the
chance that if one thing does badly another
may do well. If wheat is down, hay may be
-dear, and if mutton is cheap, beef or pork may
be selling well, or it is " Up horn, down corn,"
as the old adage says.
DAIRY WORK
Dairy work is not much taken up by educated
women apart from its connection with general
farming. There is one sphere, however, in
which tliis work offers fair opportunities, and
that is in regaxd to teacliing. County Councils
pay women teachers and travelling lecturers
a fair rate of salary ranging from £80 to £150
a yesj. Posts as dairymaids may also be
taken by gentlewomen in model dairies on large
country estates. These posts are, as a rule,
fairly well paid, salaries ranging from £30 a
year with lodging, fuel, and dairy produce.
Tliere are also good prospects in the colonies
for women well versed in dairy work, more
particularly when they have also had a good
training in domestic science generally.
Training. - Six months to one year's training
should be taken at a good college, where the
pupils are prepared for the examinations of the
Royal Agricultural Society, the British Dairy
Farmers' Association, the British Dairy Insti-
tute, and other recognised bodies. The cost of
training will not amount to more than £36 for
a year, and haU that sum for six months. Ex-
cellent training is given at the Midland Agri-
cultural and Dairy College, Nottinghamshire,
and at the British Dairy Institute, Reading.
BEE-KEEPING
By Bertha La Mothe
Bee-keeping is an occupation which may be
taken up by women of all classes and all ages.
It is also an occupation partictilarly suitable f^r
those women who, from force of circumstances,
are debarred from going out into tho world to
earn their hving, and yet must bring their share
of grist, however small, to the family mill. It
has all the advantages of healthy outdoor work
without any of its disadvantages. No heavy
work such as forms a feature of most agricultural
occupation is entailed ; neither is work out of
doors in bad weather involved, for in winter
bees may bo left quite to themselves.
Besides being a profitable occupation, bee-
keeping forms a most interesting hobby, but
many people are debarred from embarking upon
it owing to the fact that bees have stings. This
is a disadvantage which is a great deal magnified.
It is true that inexperienced people should not
handle hives unless under the guidance of an
ox-pert, but when once a woman has learned
to manipulate a hive of bees the danger of stings
is very small. Tlic beginner should always wear
a veil and gloves at first. She %rill very soon
discard the latter, but it is better always to wear
a veil, as bees sometimes get caught in the hair
WOMEN IN HORTICULTURE AND IN AGRICULTURE
and axe liable to sting if they cannot disentangle
themselves.
At certain seasons bees are easier to mani-
pulate than at others ; in spring, when they
have few stores to guard, this is especially the
case, but towards autumn, when their honey
has been taken away from them, they are not
so good-tempered. For about five months in
the year during the winter the bee-keeper has
no need to worry at all with her hives. During
this time, therefore, some other occupation may
be taken up.
To make a success of bee-keeping a woman
must necessarily have some business capacity.
April is the best month to start an apiary. Care
should be taken in selecting a good district
where there are plenty of orchards and such
crops as clover and sainfoin. Lime-trees are
also very good. In districts with few orchards
and unsiiitable crops the returns are not so
good. In suitable locaUties profits should be
made at the rate of from £1 to £1, 10s. per hive.
No very large outlay is necessary. A new hive
and stock of bees can be bought for from £2
to £3, and a second-hand hive for much less.
Profits are not only made by selling the honey
itself, but also by selling queens and swarms,
stock en frames, &c. A ready market is found
for honey in most localities at prices ranging
from 8d. to Is. per lb.
Training and Prospects. - Training may be had
at Studley Horticultural College, Warwickshire,
and many lady boe experts receive pupils. A
short course on " Bee-. seeping " may also bo
had at Swanley Horticulttu-al College, Kent,
for £3, 3s., non-resident. Certificates are awarded
by the British Bee-keepers' Association. A first-
class certificate-holder is quaUfied to take pupils,
and this forms another remunerative branch of
the bee-keeper's occupation. County Covmcils'
Schools often employ lecturers on bee-keeping
as part of their winter courses in Nature Study.
For these fees of from 10s. to £2, 2s. per head
may be had. The bee expert who can secure
some lectming in winter and can obtain pupils
to share her practical work in summer stands
to show a very fair rate of profit for the year.
She mxost, of course, be prepared for hard work
during the season, as there are periods of intense
activity, but it is work amply rewarded by the
interest it brings apart from all questions of
monetary return.
POULTRY-KEEPING
By N. Edwards,
President of the Ladies' Poultry Clvb
After having seen something of poultry-keeping
in the United States, Canada, France, Belgium,
Holland, Switzerland, and Germany, I have found
that in the United Kingdom we Iiave the greatest
advantages in regard to our cUmate and soil.
Tn parts of North America fowls have to be
655
kept imder cover from three to six montlis of
the year, when snow is deep upon the ground,
and in summer the great heat is very trying
to growing chicks. It is impossible for certain
insects to hve in the sandy soil found in parts
of France, Germany, and Belgium, which in
England form a large part of the nutritive food
of the fowls. However, if accommodation be
provided suitable to the climate fowls may be
kept in a healthy condition in almost every part
of the world ; where snow Ues deep for many
months good houses and large scratching sheds
must be provided ; where the heat is intense, as
in India, large well-ventilated houses painted
white are necessary. On sandy soils meat must
be given to supply the want of insect life, and
so on ; whatever is lacking naturally must be
supplied artificially.
For egg production all the year round we
should be able to compete weU with any countrj',
as we suffer from no great extremes of climatic
change ; but in spite of our huge advantages we
imported in 1909 eggs worth nearly seven and a
quarter millions of money, the value of which
came in the following order : the greatest from
Russia, then Denmark, Austria-Hungary, France,
Italy, Germany, and Canada. The value of
table poultry imported in the same year was
about £920,000. The National Poultry Organisa-
tion Society has done a great work in starting
egg-coUecting dep6ts, which no doubt will in
time be established in every county. With
greater co-operation in and between our villages
and diminished railway rates, we should have
a most flourisliing industry which would gain
for us the position we hold in regEird to liigh-
class birds for stock and exhibition for which
we stand pre-eminent.
Improvements are going on all over the world
in the quality of pure-bred birds, and the simis
paid aimually to British fanciers and stock
breeders reach very high figures. The demand
comes from every quarter of the globe to this
country, where we have the finest types and
best-grown birds and a climate well suited to
rearing.
By slow degrees the daughters of farmers in
the United Kingdom are becoming more alive
to the fact of their great advantages. With
plenty of land on wliich to work, and no rent
to pay for the keeping of poultry upon that
land, with food at lower rates than others can
obtain, tlioy stand out as haxnng the widest and
best opportunities of all tlio different classes of
women poultry -keepers. Many ladies who have
a small piece of ground are able to supply the
home table profitably with eggs, and where suffi-
cient land is available enough chickens for the
year's supply can be raised if a little time daily
is given to the birds. It is a curious fact that
almost every country house of any size has a
garden kept so well that there is always a good
supply of fruit and vegetables for the home
C56
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
tabic, wliile the poultry and eggs have all to bo
bought. By a little good management on the
part of the lady of the house tliis need not be,
and the table would be as well supphod by the
products of the poultry yard as it is by the
garden produce.
Poultry-keeping as a business for men and
women is sometimes regarded from a very
curious point of view ; magical results without
labour, time, or capital are expected. A girl
once ordered a brooding hen and sitting of ducks'
eggs which she was sending to a cottager for the
work of hatching and rearing to be done, and
on the proceeds she expected to take a trip to
Switzerland. The magic hen was to convert
an outlay of about ten shillings into at least
ten guineas.
Fifteen years ago I started in a very small
way, with only twenty fowls and half an acre
of land, intending to make a biisiness of one of
the many branches of poultry-keeping, and as
the best returns appeared to be obtained from
pure-bred fowls, the sale was taken up of
sittings and eggs, newly-hatched chicks, and
birds for stock, exhibition, and export. My
capital was very limited ; however, before this
was exhausted the poultry had begun to pay,
and each season the plant was enlarged from
profits, and now twenty-eight acres of land
are in use and thousands of chicks and eggs,
and about one thousand stock birds are sold
annually. The work at first, single-handed, was
very hard, but a determination to succeed
overcame all difficulties, and I have never
regretted the day I embaxked in poultry-
keeping.
Whatever is required in starting any other
commercial concern is indispensable in this, and
for the girl who expects to make a large business
of poultry-keeping a thorough training is neces-
sary. She should liave a certain amount of
bvisiness capability and plenty of enterprisow I
have found amongst workers that women excel
in that part where extra care in detail isnecessary;
and in the running of incubators containing over
three thousand eggs at work throughout the
hatching season, also in rearing one thousand
chicks annually, women have done better work
on my farm than men, i.e. in rearing and
management of incubators. It is becoming
much more general to have women for the
management of poultry than it was formerly,
as they are found particularly well adapted to
the lighter part of the work, and on exhibition
farms do extremely well. Many are successful
as lecturers at homo and in our colonies, several
are noted fanciers who have won challenge cups
at our largest shows, and each year the cata-
logues show a great increase in the number of
women exhibitors.
It will now bo readily seen that poultry-
keeping offers opportunities to women of all
classes, and when properly managed gives greater
profits than from any other stock kept upon a
farm.
Prospects, - The opportunities for women in
poultry breeding are : -
(1) It is the work for the woman at home.
(2) It offers openings in both public and
private appointments.
(3) It affords advantages as a business in
table poultry and egg production to the daughters
of farmers and of clergymen, or others who
have land at their disposal.
(4) It can be made a successful financial
business for those who take it up solely for the
work of fancy and utility breeding.
In regard to poultry -keeping for profit the
daughters of farmers have the greatest advan-
tages ; with plenty of land on wliich to work
and no rent to pay for the keeping of poultry
upon that land, with food at lower rates than
others can obtain, they stand out as having the
widest and best opportunities of all the different
classes of women poultry -keepers. Apart from
starting a poultry farm, there are openings for
women poultry-keepers as instructors in Agri-
cultural Schools, County Council Lecturers,
private tuition, &c., &c.
It is best in poultry-keeping to start in a
small way. Those who are taking up poultry
breeding on a scale which requires a substantial
capital to cover expenses of rent of house, land,
stock, &c., will require to aim higher than at
merely providing the market with fresh eggs,
chickens, and ducks for the table. They should
go in for breeding of utihty and fancy poultry,
selling them for stock and exhibition purposes,
and when the scope of the business is sufficiently
large they will be able to inaugurate a good
export trade. Good profits may be made from
the sale of newly -hatched chicks and sittings
of eggs. After the close of the hatching season
fresh eggs can be sold when prices are high, and
when low perserved in water glass and sold
in ^^anter at a good profit, but, of course, at lower
rates than fresh eggs.
The initial capital required is from £50 to £500
in accordance with the scale upon which the
business is started ; the quantity of land
from two to twelve acres. A capable business
woman will often succeed in paying expenses
in the second year of her enterprise, and from
thence onwards carry on the business at a
profit.
Training. - The woman who wishes to make
money out of poultry-keeping mush necessarilj'
have a good training, otherwise her chances of
success are very remote indeed. Most of the
Agricultural Colleges include poultry-keeping in
their cvuriculum, but this should always be
supplemented by practical work on a poultry
farm. Most lady poultry farmers take pupils
for varying fees. At Coaley Poultry Farm,
Gloucestershire, courses of instruction in prac-
tical poultry-keeping varjing in lengths from
WOMEN IN HOETIOULTURE AND IN AGRICULTURE
three to twelve weeks may be had.
including board, are : -
Fees,
For the three weeks' course
For the twelve weeks' course
£10 10 0
£31 10 0
This course may be divided into three different
seasons of the year.
An examination is held at the end of a twelve
weeks' course, and certiBcates are now awarded.
The examiner for the utility, practical, and
theoretical work is the agricultural expert for
the counties of Monmouthshire and Gloucester-
shire.
Practical Dally Work (according to the seasons).
- Preparing food, feeding adult stock, hatching
with incubators, hatching with hens, testing eggs,
657
preserving eggs for eating, rearing chickens in
brooders, rearing chickens with hens, fatten-
ing fowls, kiUing fowls, plucking fowls, shaping
fowls, dressing fowls, trussing fowls, cramming
fowls, preparing birds for exhibition, packing
sittings of eggs, packing newly -hatched chickens,
varieties studied with club standards.
Pupils learn how to start poultry-keeping on
the most modern and practical lines, with the
best and latest appliances. Each person has
an incubator to work, chickens to rear in a
brooder, fowls to kiU, truss, and dress.
Excellent advice upon poultry-keeping may
also be obtained from the Secretary of the
National Poultry Organisation Society, 12
Hanover Square, London, W.
2t
DOMESTIC SCIENCE
Within the last few years educational experts have awakened to the value of domestic science in
the training of girls, whether it is to qualify thom for one of the many posts which a thorough
knowledge of the domestic arts will place witliin their reach, or whether it is to fit them to
undertake the duties of housewives when they are called upon to rule over homes of their own.
Special training schools in domestic subjects are now to be found in almost every large town in the
United Kingdom, where girls may receive a thorough training to prepare them to earn a livelihood
in any of the branches of domestic science, or where they may take short courses in order to
put their learning to practical use in their own homes. It is also significant of the trend of
opinion in regard to this important branch of a girl's education that a special course in domestic
science has been included in the Women's Department of King's College, London University.
Domestic science subjects include cookery, sewing, home dressmaking and millinery, laundry
work and housewifery. There are good posts to be had for women who have had a thorough
training, and also for those who have specialised in any one of the chief domestic arts. Needless
to say, before taking up the study of domestic science a girl should have had a good secondary
education, more especially if she wishes to qualify as a teacher.
HIGHER EDUCATION OF WOMEN IN
HOME SCIENCE
The special domestic science course now in-
cluded in the Women's Department of Iving's
College, London University, is well worthy
of special notice, more especially in regard to
those who wish to earn their Hvelihoods in the
higher posts, such as head teachers, Government
inspectors, &c. The training is one that assures
a high standard of merit in all who have taken
the King's College Course, and in the annual
report of the college for 1909 it is said : -
" Outside the strict undergraduate course the
most noticeable addition is that of the students
in the new Home Science Department. These,
as so often with pioneer students, are an interest-
ing and varied group of thoughtful women.
After a year's trial it is possible to say that the
movement is proving its value and importance
as a new development in the higher education of
women. A distinct advance can bo observed in
the attention given to it by leading educational
authorities, and in the interest shown by those
concerned in the education of girls, as, for
instance, head mistrrsses. There is already a
demand for women trained in this way to teach
in schools greater than the College has been able
to meet. From the College point of \'iew the
introduction of this course has strengthened
the staff and furnished an appeal to the interest
of a new set of students."
The syllabus for the Higher Education of
Women in Home Science and Economics com-
prises two courses : -
(1) A one year's course for students of
graduate standing.
(2) A three years' course for students whose
general education has reached the standard
requisite for entry on university courses of the
usual undergraduate typo.
The fees for the first is thirty guineas, and for
the second course thirty guineas p"r annum.
There are one or two scholarships in connection
with the coiirse, full particulars of which may
bo had upon application to the Vice-Principal
of King's College (Women's Department). A
reduction is made in favour of teachers. A
diploma is awarded by the College to students
who take a complete course and pass an ex-
amination to the satisfaction of the council.
The tuition includes instruction in applied
chemistry, the practical domestic arts, sanitary
science and applied hygiene, economics, &c.
The main object of these courses is to provide
a thoroughly scientific education in the principles
underlying the whole organisation of home life,
the conduct of institutions, and other spheres of
civic and social work in wliich these principles
are applicable.
Either course will bo useful for women who
wish to qualify as teachers or lecturers in domestic
subjects, or who wish to fit themselves for the
post of matron in a largo institution, or who
658
DOMESTIC SCIENCE
659
are anxioiis to find work in the colonies. There
is a special course for inspectorships or other
Government appointments.
TEACHERS OF DOMESTIC SUBJECTS
Training and Prospects. - There are many
posts available for teachers of domestic subjects,
more especially in cookery, laundry work and
housewifery in elementary and secondary
schools, technical institutes and evening
schools. Teachers of domestic subjects in
elementary schools must have first-class teach-
ing diplomas in housewifery, cookery, and
laundry work or dressmaking, gained at a
training school recognised by the Board of
Education, and this is essential even if they are
only required to teach one subject. The train-
ing extends over two years, and the fees are
usually about £50 for the entire course. The
charges of the National Society's Training
School for Teachers of Domestic Subjects,
Hampstead, represent the average, and are as
follows : -
Cookery, £30 - course of forty-two weeks ;
Laimdry work, £10, 10s. - course of twenty-six
weeks ; Housewifery, £8, 8s. - course of thirteen
weeks.
Those who wish to enter a special training
college to be trained as teachers of domestic
subjects must not be less than eighteen years of
age. They must have had a good English
education and have a,n aptitude for teacliing.
They are usually required to take an examination
in general knowledge imless they possess a
certificate from a public examining body. In
colleges especially devoted to the training of
teachers for public elementary schools, the
Board of Education require each student to
make a declaration that she enters the train-
ing college with the intention of eventually
becoming a teacher of domestic subjects,
either in a pubHc elementary school or in
some other school approved by the Board for
the purpose.
The training in needlework, dressmaking, and
millinery is less expensive.
These subjects are largely taught in secondary
schools, and good posts in this connection may
be had. Needlework forms a part of the ciirri-
culum in almost every girls' school, whether
public or private ; dressmaking is now also
largely taught in private as well as in pubhc
schools, so that in tliis respect there are many
openings for teachers of needlework and dress-
making. Classes for needlework, cutting-out,
and dressmaking can also be formed, and, if
properly managed, will prove remunerative.
There are many ways in which a thorough
practical knowledge of needlework may be
turned to advantage on a money-making basis.
The training in plain needlework, dressmaking,
and millinery is very moderate. At the National
Training School for Teachers the fees are as
follows : -
Plain Needlework, £7, 7s. - course of twenty
weeks ; Dressmaking, £7, 7s. - course of twenty
weeks ; Advanced Dressmaking, £8, 8s. - course
of twenty weeks.
Posts as teachers are also available in day
schools for domestic economy. In these the
pupils have mostly won scholarships granted by
the local education authorities and have entered
the school to train for domestic service. Cookery,
laimdry work, needlework, and dressmaking are
the principal subjects taught. Domestic science
teachers and lecturers are also employed at
evening technical classes under local authori-
ties, especially in covmtry districts.
In order to obtain the higher posts in domestic
work, such as teachers and head teachers in
training colleges, a three years' training in as
many subjects as possible should be taken.
There are Government inspectorships of domestic
science schools that can also be filled, but these
positions are necessarily few, as the number of
appointments is hmited. As is the case with
most other Government inspectorships, two years'
probation must be imdergone before a definite
appointment is secured.
Salaries vary to a great extent in accordance
with the locaUty and the school. £70 a year
would represent a fair average figure for ordi-
nary teachers' posts in elementary or secondary
schools.
Salaries of teachers in day schools for domestic
economy average from £90 to £140. Those of
lecturers and teachers in technical classes vary
according to the particular districts.
Head mistresses of schools of domestic
economy receive salaries of from £100 a year
and upwards, whilst the salary of a Government
inspector in domestic science averages £200 a
year.
Cookery. - Though to obtain a post as teacher
of cookery in an elementary school under a
local authority it is necessary to take training
in housewifery and laundry work as well as in
cookery, there are posts available for the
student who has taken her first -class cookery
diploma alone. In many large institutions
there are posts to be had as head cook and
head of the Idtchen staff which can only be
filled by one well versed in organisation as
well as in the culinary art, and posts of this kind
are largely filled by women. In coimection
with many schools of domestic science, as well
as with private schools, posts as cookery
teachers, lecturers, and demonstrators may be
obtained. The principal gas and electric light
companies also employ lady demonstrators of
cooking in connection with their various exhibi-
tions and show-rooms.
Private cookery classes have also been
organised with success in a few cases, but as
a rule it is inadvisable to start upon a private
660
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
vcuturc, as cookery lectures and demonstrations
organised under the auspices of the County
Councils aio now held in almost every populous
district, and the charges artj so low tlmt it
would bo impossible for any pri\-ate enterprise
to compete with them in tliis respect. In some
country districts, however, cookery classes have
been successfully organised by a committee of
ladies, but in these cases a certain minimum
attendance has been guaranteed.
Private cookery schools can also be started
with advantage if a suitable locality is selected.
Preference should bo given to a loigh-class
residential district where there is no competition
in the shape of other schools to be encountered.
In these circumstances a good connection may
be formed amongst married ladies who wish to
add to their knowledge of cookery, or to learn
new dishes to teach their cooks. Special classes
could be given for cooks to teach them some
new or special dish. For this reason the princi-
pals of the school should make a point of being
ail fait in every innovation, being careful to keep
their cookery up-to-date. Their advertising
literature and catalogue should be well designed.
They might, for instance, advertise various
courses of lessons, i.e. lessons for housewives,
lessons for cooks, lessons for prospective
brides, &c.
In the afternoons demonstrations of cookery
might be held, when Is. to Is. 6d. admission
could be charged. Novelty should be the key-
note of these demonstrations. The teacher
should alwaj's endeavour to display some novel
dish - some novel method of cooking or novel
and useful cooking apphanccs. A very re-
munerative side-hno may be eflected in the sale
of cooking appliances, and in this connection
a good addition to the income may bo made
by using the appliances of firms who are anxious
to place their wares before the public, and who
are willing to pay well for an advertisement of
the kind. Only really useful and really efficient
utensils, however, should bo used - appliances
that can bo safely recommended.
Dress of Cookery Teachers. - This must always
be plain, neat, and clean. No more fitting
costume could bo had than a short skirt and
bodice (or Vjlouso) of washing material. Over
this a plain white linen apron long enough to
cover the dress, with a " bib " fa.stoned by
means of straps crossing over the shoulders
should bo worn. A very dainty effect is also
achieved by means of clean white hnen over
sleeves. A regulation cap is usually worn.
The cookery teacher sliould be very particular
in regard to the care she bestows upon her hands.
Her hair should also be kept particularly neat
and tidy.
Domestic science training may bo had at tho
following colleges in addition to tho National
Society's Training College, alreatly mentioned : -
In London. - The National Training School
of Cookery, 72 to 78 Buckingham Palaco Road,
S.W. Tlie Polytechnic, Battersea, S.W.
Edinburgh. - Edinburgh School of Cookery and
Domestic Economy, 3 to G AthoU Crescent.
Glasgow. - Glasgow and West of Scotland
College of Domestic Science, 86 Bath Street,
Glasgow.
Dublin. - Irish Training School of Domestic
Economy, St. Kevin's Park, Kilmacud, Still-
organ.
Leeds. - ^Training School of Cookery and
Domestic Economy.
Liverpool. - Training School of Cookery, 23
Colquitt Street.
Manchester. - ^Municipal School of Domestic
Economy.
Newcastle-on-Tyne. - ^Northern Counties Train-
ing School of Cookery and Household Economy.
A full Hst of training colleges and schools of
domestic science is published in the English-
woman's Year Book.
HOUSEWIFERY
Training in housewifery may bo had at all
tho above-mentioned institutions and also at
other estabhshments which differ from those
above-mentioned, inasmuch as their main object
is to train students for the ordinary domestic
duties of home hfe. The work of the cook,
housemaid, parlourmaid, and housekeeper aro
all taught by actual practice, so that a woman
so trained, when worried with the servant
question, need never be very much put about,
as she can set to and do the work herself. The
training, moreover, will enable a mistress to
manage her servants well and superintend their
woTk in a proper manner. Women who wish
to earn their Uving as lady servants may obtain
all the training necessary at estabhshments A
this kind.
Such training may be obtained at the Fegeme
School of Household Management, Temple
Ewell, near Dover. Here all the work of the
establishment is done by pupils. Fees aro 258.
a week, including board and lodging.
St. [Martha's College of Housecraft, 4 Chi-
chester Street, St. George's Square, London,
S.W., is a homo school run upon the same lines,
and has been established to help Catholic
gentlewoman and others who require a short
practical and inexpensive training in domestic
work as a profession, or for use in their own
homes. The course of training is six months,
and tho inclusive fee for board, residence, and
tuiti^jn is thirty guineas.
The Guild of Dames of the Household, Chelten-
ham, is an association wliich affords good training
for lady servants. Fees, fifteen shillings weekly,
including board.
Lady Servants. - Tliero is no doubt that
domestic service as a livelihood is declining in
popularity amongst all classes of workers ; it is
DOMESTIC SCIENCE
661
not to be wondered at, therefore, that educated
ladies do not take to it too readily as a career,
yet under favourable circumstances it should
appeal to many gentlewomen who are versed
in practical domestic science, for it presents
many opportunities for the capable and willing
worker. The servant question nowadays is
one of great difficulty. Girls and women of the
original servant class are now filling our factories
and our shops. Service to them is synonymous
with bondage. They prefer to have their even-
ings free, and are content to work under much
less favourable conditions than they wovdd if in
service, so long as their work is limited to
certain set hours.
It may be said that the long working hours
form in every case the disadvantage of domestic
service. Life has often to be spent in a base-
ment. Some i-pistresses are none too thoughtful
for their servants' comfort, and even the one
evening out a week is given grudgingly as a great
concession. The best class of mistress, however,
is always distinguished by her consideration for
those working vmder her, and it is with this
class of mistress that work can be done under the
most favourable conditions. As a rule, where
lady servants are concerned, employers are only
too willing to afford them consideration, realising
that they are qualified ladies who have under-
gone a thorough course of training and are
therefore highly efficient. They are therefore
only too anxious to keep them and study their
comfort in every way. The success or non-
success of the lady servai t will depend to a
great extent upon her powers of adaptability to
her work. The woman who considers domestic
service beneath her and does her work with
an injiared air, having always an " I am as
good as you " expression upon her face when
addressed by her mistress, will never attain
:: access. Her life will seem to her one long
hardship, and she will always be labouring
under an undefined sense of grievance. On the
other hand, a menial position in a household
is unsuited to a woman, unless, as in the case of
a head cook or housekeeper in a large establish-
ment, she is at the head of all the other servants,
having her own sitting-room in which to take
her meals, or unless if she is an ordinary servant,
her fellow-workers are ladies also. Finally, a
great deal will depend upon the disposition of
the worker. If she is one who is always willing
to make the best of tilings and is able to adapt
herself with a good will to varying circumstances,
she will find happiness and independence in
whatever domestic position she may take up.
The present unsatisfactory state of the
servant question has created a demand for
lady cooks in many instances. More especially
is thJs the case in very large private houses,
ladies' clubs and colleges. In these circum-
stances the position of the lady cook is at
its best ; she usually has her own suite of
rooms in which she can take her meals and
spend her spare time by herself. To satis-
factorily fill a position of this kind, besides
being an expert cook, a woman must also be
a good organiser. She will have control of all
the kitchen staff ; often she will require to do
some of the housekeeping as well. Such posts
at present are few and far between ; but there
is no reason why the openings in this direction
should not be increased, and why the lady chef
should not take the place of a man chef in
many cases. She should be able to earn an
income of from £40 to £80 and sometimes
£100 a year.
In small households lady cooks are sometimes
employed, but as in this case the kitchen
hfe will be that of ordinary servants in most
middle-class homes, a position of this kind
is only suitable where other lady servants
are employed. Wages are paid on the scale
of ordinary servants' wages.
Amongst givers of dinner-parties there is also
a demand for the visiting cook, who will take
upon herself the responsibility of preparing a
whole dinner, with the help of a kitchen-maid
to do the rough work. In the first instance she
will be asked to draw up a menu with list of
cooking requirements for approval. Tlien when
the menu has been approved or various altera-
tions have been suggested, she must superintend
the whole cooking of the dinner, seeing that each
cush is served promptly in its tuin, and remain-
ing until the entire meal has been served. Good
fees may be commanded by the experienced
cook. These average from 15s. to £1, Is. per
dinner, the latter fee being given to those with the
highest qualifications and credentials.
To cook a dinner and see that it is served
without a hitch is no mean achievement. It re-
qviires great experience and powers of organisa-
tion to do this properly, and it should never be
attempted by the girl fresh from her training
school until she has had good practice in cooldng
dinners of many com-ses. She must cultivate
calmness of temperament, presence of mind in
emergencies, power of maintaining discipline
amongst those who work under her, and, above
all, order, method, and punctuality, without
which qualities any scheme of organisation must
necessarily fail.
Children's Nurse. - Tliis career opens out many
opportunities for ladies. Parents are beginning
to realise the urgent need of havnng persons of
refinement to care for their children, and, in
addition, persons who have had a certain
definite training and are therefore competent
for the work. Tliere is necessity for specialisa-
tion in this as well as in other careers. The
would-be nurse must go to a recognised school or
training home, and gain her certificate of merit ;
it is useless for the untrained worker to expect
to gain her livelihood in this profession.
The girl who would become a nurse must in
662
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the first instance be fond of cliildrcn. She must
possess an abundant fund of patience and perse-
verance, and, in fact, have a vocation for tho
work. Before undertaking it a girl should well
realise what it means. She will have to take
entire charge of the little ones, make most of
their clothes, do all the mending, and care for
them in sickness ; she should be able to recog-
nise and treat the various childish ailments,
and should have a thorough knowledge of child
hygiene. In some cases she will have to give
the little ones their first lessons, and in these
circumstances a knowledge of kindergarten
methods will be most useful. There are colleges
over the kingdom where training may be had.
This generally takes one year, although in some
colleges there is a six months' covu-se. The cost
of training averages from £60 to £80 a year.
Tlie training is not only useful for those who
wish to become cluldren's niirses, but it is also
valuable for girls who are to marry, and who in
all probability will have cloildren of their own
to care for. The course of instruction usually
includes the care and feeding of babies from a
few days old and upwards ; the management
and routine of a nursery, mu^ery cookerj', the
cutting-out and making of children's garments,
mending, ntirsery laundry work, nursery hygiene,
and kindergarten methods of teaching.
The following are some of the best-known
institutions where training may be had : -
Tho Norland Institute, 10 Pembridge Square,
London, W. (The course includes three months'
training in a children's hospital.) Sesame House,
Acacia Road, St. John's Wood, London ; The
Hampstead Niu-sery College, Hampstead,
London, W. (Roman Catholic) - Principal, !Mrs.
Bernard Mole ; Princess Christian College for
Training Ladies as Niu-ses, 19 Wilmslow Road,
Willington, ^Manchester. Full particulars as to
terms, course of training, &c., may bo had upon
application to any of these institutions.
Prospects. - The commencing salary of a lady
nurse should not bo less than £25 a year. An
experienced head nurse can earn from £40 to £70
in many cases.
Hoasekeepers and Matrons. - A good training
in housewifery and domestic science is necessary
for the housekeeper of the present day. A short
course of cookery should also be taken. There
are very few positions available nowadays in
the ordinary middle-class household ; but in
houses where a largo staff of servants is kept
tho housekeeper still holds sway. Experience
and a thorough knowledge of the domestic arts,
as well as good organising capacities, are always
necessary to successfully fill a position of this
kind. The same may be said of housekeepers
and matrons in large schools and public insti-
tutions. Tlie housekeeper is usually required
to superintend the cooking and catering and
keep the accounts in regard to both. She will
also have charge of the plate and linen, seeing
to tho necessary mending of the latter, or, if
there is a sewing-maid, seeing that the mending
is promptly and efficiently executed. In short,
it will be realised that no inefficient untrained
person can fill a post of tliis kind. Those who
have had experience in the management of
their own households must not tliink that the
knowledge so gained is sufficient to enable them
to take an important post. Though the practi-
cal experience they have gained is very useful,
they should supplement this by short courses
in housewifery and cookery at one of tho
domestic science schools.
LAUNDRY MANAGERESS
The best way to obtain a post of this kind is
to take a course of practical training for tliree
months in a laiindry. Most large laundries
take pupils for three months' training at an
average fee of £10, 10s. ; to this must be added
the cost of board and lodging during the training
period. Tlie success of the student will depend a
great deal upon how she uses her powers of ob-
servation, and whether she makes the most of all
the facilities afforded her and studies the work
to the most minute detail. When a student
shows decided aptitude for the work, she will
often be allowed to stay on after she has com-
pleted her course of instruction, and if the
proprietor desires to retain her services, he
will pay her a small salary and give her in all
probability the charge of a department. It is
always advisable to stay a year at the laundry
after tho training has been completed in order
to get experience. After this a woman will
be able to take a post as assistant manageress
in a laundry or institution, and then aim at
the post of manageress in due course. Training
should always be taken at a largo laundry, for
in these the most varied experience may be
had.
The following laundries take pupils, and are
typical of the kind of institution at which
training should be taken : -
The Wimbledon Laundry Co., Cranbrook
Road, Wimbledon, London; The Anglo-America'i
Laundry, Tooting, London ; The Craigmillar
Laundry, Edinburgh.
There are many qualities necessary to assure
the success of a laundry manageress ; of these
business oapacity and good powers of organisa-
tion are essential. Each department must be
run with regularity of clockwork, books must
be kept in order, and expenses checked. Tact
in dealing with the complaints of difficult cus-
tomers is also very necessary, and, above all,
the power of maintaining discipline and gaining
the respect of the large number of workers
employed.
The salary of a laundry manageress usually
commences at £2, 10s. a week, rising to £5. It
is work, therefore, which is well paid, and in this
DOMESTIC SCIENCE
663
respect compaxes very favourably with all other
branches of biisiness open to women. The hours
of work in a laundry are long, usually from ten
to twelve hours daily, but the work is fuU of
interest and there are many compensations.
Good posts may also be obtained in various
institutions where they pay fair salaries -
usually £50 a year with board and lodging.
In ladies' colleges also there are posts available,
where the rate of pay is on much the same
scale.
Another recommendation which a post of
this kind should have to the woman worker is
the fact that the working years are more than
in the csise with most other employments for
women. In fact, in selecting a manageress
preference is in many cases given to the middle-
aged woman who is experienced at the work.
A girl should not take up laundry work too
young - twenty-one years of age should be
the limit - and she should have had a good
general education and a knowledge of book-
keeping and commercial arithmetic.
WOMEN'S WORK IN THE COLONIES
There are many openings in the colonies for
educated women, more especially in Canada
and South Africa. Emigration, however, is a
serious step to take, and no woman should
decide upon it before taking the advice of one
of the best emigration associations. From these
full information as to the kind of work which is
best for the colonies, together with particulars
as to the best way of getting employment, &c.,
may be had. Many societies advance passage
money to girls, or make a grant towards it.
Intending emigrants to Canada should apply
for information to the British Women's Emigra-
tion Society, Imperial Institute, London, S.W.,
and those who wish to go to South Africa should
write for particulars to the South African
Colonisation Society, IIS Victoria Street,
London, S.W.
The best openings for women workers in our
colonies undoubtedly present themselves to those
who are well skilled in domestic science. In
many of the country districts of Canada ser-
vants are scarce, so that the .services of women
helps are generally at a premium. The woman
help in Canada will be required to know every
branch of domestic work, including cooking,
laundry work, mending, dressmaking, &c. Her
position is infinitely better than that of th.e
" lady help " at homo, for she is always treated
as one of the family, sharing in the pleasure as
well as the work of her employers. Canadian
life is homely and free in every sense, and little
store is set upon social distinction of class ;
educated women workers £ire always treated as
equals.
Some horticultural and agricultural know-
ledge on the part of the emigrant to Canada
will stand her in good stead. Work in the
gardens as in the fields may well become her
province. In fact, there is scarcely a thing ta
which she should not be able to put her hand.
Apart from the favourable prospects for home
workers, capable girls very soon get married in
our colonies and thus have hoiises of their own
to direct. Tliere are many establishments that
give training to girls who intend to emigrate.
At the Horticultural College, Swanley, intend-
ing colonists may have a very good training
in both indoor and outdoor work. Fees, £70 a
year ; shorter courses may be taken.
The Stoke Prior Colonial Training College,
Bromsgrove, also oSers training in all domestic
subjects, including dairy work and poultry
rearing. The training lasts from three to six
months according to the course chosen, and the
fees for board and tuition are from 17s. 6d. for
a single room, and from 12s. 6d. if the room is
shared, per week.
Then there is the Arlesley Training College..
near Hitcliin, Herts, which oSers a very thorough
training to ladies in all branches of Colonial
housework. It is under the patronage of Lady
Francis Balfour and Lady Buxton and other
ladies who are much interested in the scheme.
Besides the ordinary domestic subjects, the
management of a garden, farm, or poultry -yard,
bee-keeping, pig rearing, riding, dri\-ing, car-
pentry, a knowledge of ambulance and home
nursing, &c., are all taught. The age Hmit for
entrance in the college is from eighteen to thirty.
The fees are £50 for a six months' course, or £80
for a year's coiu^e, including residence. A full
course lasts two years. For fuller particulars
apply to the Principal of the College.
Ordinary domestic training may be had at any
school of domestic science, but training in
poultry-keeping, dairy work, gardening, &c.,
are all essential in many cases for the " home
help." If a girl takes good training in all these
branches she is almost certain of obtaining pro-
fitable appointments. Girls who go out to the
colonies to be married should also have some
sort of training of the kind, as tliis will be
necessary for the proper management of homes
of their own.
Domestic helps earn good salaries, according
to their capabiUties ; the thoroughly trained girl
would earn as much as between £52 to £60 a
year ; the less experienced worker beginning at
from £24 to £30. First-class head cooks in large
town establishments, hotels, &c., earn very high
wages, ranging from £60 per annimi, and often
rising to £120 in the case of hotels and
restaurants.
School teachers and governesses are well paid
in both Canada and South Africa, there being
more openings in the former than m the latter
co\intry. A thorough teacher's training mxist
be taken and the necessary certificates g"iiiied
to obtain a post of the Idnd. (See Teaching
664
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Profession.) Many posts are to bo had in tho
state schools of Canada and in tho high schools
of Cape Colony axid Natal. Assistant mistresses
in elementary schools receive salaries of from
£144 to £170 a year, and head mistresses from
£200 to £300. It must be remembered, however,
that the cost of Uving is higher than it is in the
mother country. In South Africa salai-ies are
lower, and the cost of hving very much greater
than in Caneida ; teachers therefore should take
none but resident posts, for in these circvun-
stances they will not have to pay for board and
lodging, wliich are always exceedingly high items
of expenditure. In many cases the passages
of teachers from England to South Africa are
paid by the schools. Posts as governesses
and nursery governesses are well paid in both
colonies.
\Vlien a girl goes out to Canada or one of the
other colonies and has no fixed place to go to,
she ought to arrange, if possible, to board at one
of the branches of the G.F.S. or Y.W.C.A., as
many of the cheaper hotels and boarding-houses
are not desirable. Particulars of the different
^hostels in the colonies can be obtained by apply-
ing to llrs. H. R. Slill, Honorary Secretary,
Y.W.C.A. Emigration Department, The Hollies,
Mill Hill, London, or to the Honorary Secretary,
ilrs. Joyce, G.F.S. Emigration Department, St.
John's Croft, Winchester.
Women have started and are running farms
in Canada with success, but to do this requires
very exceptional qualifications and a thorough
agricultural training. In regard to clerical and
other oflSco posts these offer few prospects for
the English girl, as the colonics themselves pro-
vide a sufficient number of this class of worker.
The restaurant and hotel businesses pay well,
and the woman with capital might turn her
attention to an enterprise of the kind. Smart
milliners and dressmakers are also in request,
and girls who are versed in either dressmaking
or millinery may obtain very good positions with
large firms in tho principal towiis, or, if they
have capital combined with skill and business
abiUty, they can start a business of their own
with good prospects of success. This, how-
ever, should not be done until one has a good
knowledge of the country and especially of the
local requirements.
Hints on a Colonial Outfit. - When choosing
an outfit for abroad the kind of climate one
is going to must be taken into consideration
and also the life one expects to lead. In most
cases it is a mistake to buy a great many clothes,
unless one is quite sure of what is required and
also the special rates of transit, as the expense
of carriage is as a rule very heavy, and especially
so if tho journey happens to He across country.
In most places, too, it is possible to buy what is
wanted and of a kind best suited to the needs of
that special locaUty.
The woman who goes out to tho colonies
should provide herself with a reasonable amount
of plain sensible clothing.
A good supply of underclothing is always
advisable, and six of everything should be tho
smallest number provided. Woollen garments
are indispensable, and these ought to be very
warm if a winter in Canada is anticipated,
while a specially thin make will bo required for
summer wear and for warm climates. All under-
clothing ought to be plain and neat rather than
of a flimsy character, as the trouble of wasliing
must be taken into consideration, and the
woman colonist must, as a rule, be prepared
either to do her own or else be able to afford a
big washing bill.
Two neat costumes should form part of the
outfit - one of which might be made of navy
blue serge of rather a Ught make for spring and
autumn wear, and the other might be made of
some warm grey material or a tweed mixture for
colder weather. Both of these would be found
useful when travelling.
A good supply of neat weU-fitting shirts or
blouses should be provided for wearing with
these costumes.
Two good traveUing coats will also be necessary
- one light in weight, which will serve as a pro-
tection from d'ost or a Hght shower of rain, and
the other a warm storm coat, which will be a
\vrap in the coldest weather; a Islanket coat
would be veiy suitable for the purpose, as it is
both light and warm.
A girl who is going to do domestic work will
also require some strong working dresses made
either of cotton or linen, wliich can easily be
washed. A supply of large working aprons or
overalls should also be taken.
The amount of finer clothes taken will depend
entirely upon the life that is about to be led.
If this is uncertain it is wiser just to take one
simple evening dress, and perhaps a thin cloth
dress along with two or three dressy blouses, and
perhaps one or two lengtlis of pretty material
which can be made up when necessary. A
tussore silk dress ia always useful ; it is easily
washed and looks fresh and new every time.
Suitable hats can generally bo bought on the
spot, and as they are difficult to carry, a large
number should not be thought of. One or two
hats and a close-fitting travelling-cap will be
all that are required. Sun-hats can generally
bo bought locally for a few shillings.
There should also bo a fair supply of boots,
shoes and house slippers of a comfortable make
and not too thin.
Such etceteras as gloves, stockings, riblDons,
ties, handkerchiefs, belts, collars should be
provided pretty Uberally, but flimsy finery of all
kinds should be avoided ; it is quite spoilt after
being packed up for some time, and in a simple
Colonial life is out of plfice.
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
Years ago the woman in biisiness was an unknown, quantity ; to-day she is an accepted
fact. There is scarcely a business career nowadays which cannot be entered by a clever woman
and from the typist at £1 a week to the manageress or the proprietress of large commercial
enterprises we find women working side by side with men, in many cases with equal advantages.
There is still, however, a deplorable tendency to make women work longer and at lesser salaries
than men in the mere clerical positions. For this many girls have themselves been responsible,
a nimiber of them working for pocket-money only. Happily women are beginning to realise the
evils of undercutting in salaries, and it only needs a co-operation among all women workers to
assure their being paid at least a living wage. In tliis article some of the principal branches of
business open to women are considered.
LADY CLERKS
Shorthand Typist. - The gii-1 who wishes to
become a shorthand typist should first of all
have had a good general education. Then she
must have spent a year or two years in special
training for her work. Too much stress cannot
be laid upon the fact that a thorough education
is essential in all cases as a basis upon wliich
to build up the special work which is to follow.
There seems to be a kin.l of idea that a girl
can take a post as shorthand typist after very
little training, and a post in an oCace is often
thought to be the one refuge for the half -edu-
cated girl. Never was there a greater fallacy.
It has been said that the ranks of typists have
become overcrowded, and salaries have been
correspondingly lowered. This is only in re-
gard to the inefficient workers. There are a
number of girls who can perhaps take down a
letter correctly if not dictated at a high speed,
and transcribe it without serious mistake, but
beyond this they have not an idea. If they
were asked to compose a letter on their own
account or had to show initiative in any way,
they would be hopelessly at a loss. Workers of
this kind can never hope to earn good salaries,
for the very reason that there are hundreds of
others who would be ablo to step into their
shoes at a minute's notice.
This is not the case with the intelligent worker
who has thoroughly mastered her work in all
its branches, who is not only an expert short-
hand note -taker and transcriber, but who can
save her employer a great deal of his time by
being able to compose good business letters
from a few words of instruction. A girl of this
kind will always ha"e some power of initiative -
she will not have to be told again and again what
to do, and slie may bo trusted to deal tactfully
665
with any emergency that may arise. She will
always be business-hke, neat in her work, and
conscientious in carrying out her instructions.
Typists who show capabilities of this kind,
and whose work is valuable in every way, can
always command a good salary, wliilst those
who are content to be mere machines will always
be badly paid.
Training should be taken at one of the many
business colleges with which all oiir large cities
abound. Shorthand is now taught at many
schools as an extra subject, but it is seldom
that one can get speed practice to the same
extent as in a business school. Proficiency in
stenography can seldom be acquired in less than
a year at least, but even to learn it in this time
constant speed practice is necessary. Intelli-
gent students have been known to teach them-
selves shorthand, but the process is necessarily
a slow and a difficult one. Every opportunity
should be taken to read shorthand, and it is a
good plan also when reading newspapers and
magazines to trace the outlines of the words in
shorthand under the printed lines as j-ou go on.
All opportvmities for practice, such as taking
down sermons, lectures, and speeches, should bo
taken when they present themselves. In the
business training course at a college the student
will learn how to write business letters, &c., &c.
She ■n^ll, in short, be given just that training
which will be most useful to her in an office.
Besides shorthand and typewriting, training
should also bo taken in book-keeping, and the
principal methods of filing should be learned.
Tliorough knowledge of commercial French or
German will prove an invaluable asset, for a
much liigher salary will be received by the girl
who can correspond in a foreign language.
A typist's duties will consist of taking down
letters in shorthand and transcribing them on
666
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
the typewriter. Often she wiU be required to
write short letters herself from a brief word of
instruction. She will have to file letters syste-
maticaUy, being able to produce them at once
when required. She ^^-ill also be expected to
answer toleplione calls for her employer in most
cases, and this is a fact worth remembering by
those who are not accustomed to the use of the
telephone. Often she will be required to keep
note of her employer's appointments, and some-
times some of the book-keeping will fall to her
share. The duties will vary in different offices.
In large offices the stamping of letters, posting
up of letter-book, &c., are performed by boys
or junior clerks, whereas in the smaller offices
some of these duties would fall upon the typist.
Prospects. - An expert shorthand typist who
can correspond in a foreign language can nearly
always earn £2 a week and upwards; 30s.
to 35s. a week is the usual salary of the thor-
oughly efficient shorthand typist who is not
proficient in languages. For a girl with ordi-
nary quaUfications, £1 to £1, 5s. per week would
represent the average salary, a junior typist
receiving about 15s. weekly. A girl's salary will
increase according to how useful she makes
herself to her employers. In many cases a
typist's salary has been known to reach £4 a
week, but the recipient has always had excep-
tional quaUfications and been entrusted with
responsible work.
Book-keepers.- The same principles laid down
for the observance of shorthand typists must be
taken to heart by the girl who wishes to become
a book-keeper. Book-keeping by itself, how-
ever, does not present such a wide scope as when
it is allied with shorthand and typewriting.
Needless to say, the girl who wishes to be a
book-keeper must be strictly accurate and have
a special talent for figures. She should also be
a very neat writer, as all entries in the books
must be neat and legible. Training in book-
keeping can be had at any commercial school,
or at evening classes at technical institutes.
Thirty shillings a week is considered a good
salary for a woman book-keeper, but the be-
ginner would necessarily get less.
Some Hints In regard to answering Advertise-
ments and Business Interviews.- The applicant
for a post should remember that employers can
often form a judgment as to the quaUfications
of a clerk by her letter of application. Great
care should be taken, therefore, to pen a neat,
legible, and weU-worded letter, confining it
strictly to the business point at issue. An
employer does not want to know how difficult
you find it to get work, or if you are an orphan,
or if your mother is an invalid. He does want
to kno%v, however, what business experience you
have had, what is your speed in shorthand and
typewriting - if you can keep books and are used
to any particular filing system, and if you can
correspond in French or any other language.
Make your letter brief, business-like, and to tho
point. Detail carefuUy aU your qualifications,
mention how long you were with your last
employer, give references if desired, and ask for
the favour of a personal interview. If a business
interview is arranged, be at tho office punctuaUy
at the appointed time ; take great care to present
a neat, weU-groomed appearance, for this wiU
count a great deal in your favour. If you aro
asked to take down notes in shorthand and
transcribe them as a test, do so quietly and
without flurry. Make up your mind to do your
very best undeterred by the nervousness which
is invariably felt upon these occasions. Let the
answers to any questions you may be asked be
always courteous and to the point. Employers
are quick to appreciateabusiness-Ukedemeanour,
and this fact should always be borne in mind by
appUcants for a business post.
ACCOUNTANTS
Accountancy is another profession to which
educated women might well turn their atten-
tion, only its practice necessitates the possession
of several qualities which are not inherent in
the average woman. The accountant requires
a clear, deductive mind and great taste for
mathematics, sound business capabilities, and
a thorough training. She should have had a
thoroughly good general education, foUoWed by
at least three years' special study of accountancy
work. , , . t
Women are admitted to the membership oi
the London Association of Accountants and can
obtain the quaUfying distinctions of F.L.A.A.
or A.L.A.A. given by this Association. The
member's certificates of this Association are
recognised by the Board of Trade.
To prepare for the examination the student
should become articled for a period of fr^m
three to five years to a certified accountant who
is a member of tho Association. The premium
will probably amount to 25 guineas.
Women can also prepare for a provincial
Bachelor of Commerce degree at the Victoria
University, Manchester, and the Universities of
Birmingham, Leeds, and Liverpool. The study,
if day classes are taken, will last three years, or
five years if evening classes only are taken.
The fees will probably amount to about £20 for
each year. ,
For the girl of slender means preparation for
the Accountancy Certificate of the London
Chamber of Commerce may be had by attending
the classes of the London County Councils
Evening Commercial Centres. The cost for
these classes is practically nil, seldom amount-
ing to more than 2s. 6d. for the session.
BANK MANAGERESS, CASHIER
Within tho last year a new profession has
opened its gates to women, the profession of
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
667
bank manageress. On March 14, 1910, IHr.
Thomas Farrow founded the first bank for
women in the United Kingdom at 29 New
Bridge Street, Ludgate Circus, London, and in
this bank the staff and advisory committee are
composed wholly of women, and only women
customers are accepted. It may be taken that
this may lead to other similar ventures, so that
the woman who has had a good commercial
training may put it to account in this way. A
bank manageress must necessarily be a woman
of great capabilities and tact, and with sound
business knowledge and training.
In a bank managed only by women it will be
seen that not only the post of manageress, but
also those of clerks and cashiers, are available.
The woman's banking movement is well worth
watching by capable women workers ; if it de-
velops to any great extent we may see women's
banks tliroughout the kingdom, and further
openings for women workers will thus present
themselves.
The payment to the staff employed in the
first bank for women has been fixed on a Uberal
scale.
HOUSE AGENT
The Jiouse agency business is eminently suit-
able for women, yet few have so far taken it
up, owing no doubt to the long and thorough
training involved.
It is absolutely useless for any girl to enter
the ranks of house agents if she is not in the
first place a good busim^s woman and has not
a thorough knowledge of every branch of her
work. In addition a knowledge of the law is
very essential for the house agent, for witho\it
it she might often land her cUents into serious
difficulties. A knowledge of survejdng and
valuation is also necessary.
Tliere is a good future in the house agency
business for clever women with the requisite
training. A girl who wishes to start as a house
agent must be in earnest and not do things by
halves. She must have plenty of tact. The
woman house agent, in fact, should be a lady
in every sense of the word, with a good educa-
tion and good manners ; she should also be able
to mix in good social circles. It is much easier
for a lady of good social connections to start
upon work of this kind, for friends will entrust
their business to her, and her work will increase
as her success in dealing with the business
becomes known. Mrs. Arthur Holland, the well-
known lady house agent, once remarked, " Very
often I have talked over and secured an im-
portant contract in a drawing-room over the
tea-cups with much more ease than I could
have done in the office.'" Another argument in
favour of the lady house agent is the fact that
it is the lady of the family who takes or lets a
house - the husband seldom bothers with these
matters. Is it not fitting, therefore, that busi-
ness should be discussed with another lady ?
Indeed, more often than not a lady has the
advantage over a man in this respect, for she
has considerable grasp of detail, and she may
often obtain in this way concessions for her
client which a man might well overlook.
The girl who is to be a house agent should
also take instruction in house decoration, struc-
tural alterations and costs, for with this know-
ledge any one can gauge the possibilities of a
house, and can advise the owner that at such
and such an outlay a house can be made more
attractive and command in many instances
higher rent. Besides advising owners how to
deal with their property, tlie girl who knows
something of decoration and alterations can
suggest improvements to the intending tenant.
A house agent should have a thorough train-
ing in every branch of her business, from the
taking of an inventory to the drawing out of a
lease. In England there are as yet difficulties
in the way of training. Tlae best way to train,
however, is to become an articled pupil for
three years to a house agent. Tliis will cost, as
a rule, 100 guineas. In addition, careful coach-
ing should be taken in all points of law bearing
upon the business.
It is essential to have some capital before
starting a house agency business, but no capital
will be of any use unless you have the reqmsite
training and sound business capacity. Apart
from women starting in business as house agents
right away, it will soon be recognised that there
is a great deal of work connected with house
and estate agency for which they are eminently
adapted. Take the checking of inventories, for
instance ; this can be quite weU done by ladies,
and already a nvmiber of house agents employ
ladies to do this particular work.
Prospects. - House agency is a business which
should open up very good prospects for clever
women, for the reason that it is not overcrowded
by women workers. It presents no sort of
opening, however, for those with mediocre
talents, but only for those with a thorough
training and first-class capabilities.
HOUSE DECORATION
Women with the artistic sense cannot do
better than tiuTi their attention to house decora-
tion as a means of livelihood, either with the
view of obtaining a post with a firm of house
decorators, or starting a business of the kind
for themselves. Tlaere are certain qualifications
which exe, however, indispensable. In the first
place a keen sense of form and colour and an
eye for detail and arrangement are absolutely
necessary. The house decorator must be able
to originate effective schemes of decoration for
clients, and to carry out schemes de\ised by
them. In addition she must have a thorough
Icnowledge of the business side of her work, the
668
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
comparative cost of various decorative schemes,
different styles of furiiiture, fittings, "&c. She
must bo able to draw up estimates and keep
accounts, also to direct and supervise the
work of workmen. The house decorator must
have a knowledge of the typical furniture of
VEmous periods, and what style of decoration
will go best with each. She must recognise
the various kinds of clotlis and brocades, the
difference between the many varieties of carpets,
and the properties of each in regard to dura-
bility, &c. Slie must also have a knowledge of
antiques, both in regard to furniture and orna-
ments.
Training. - It will be seen that tliis knowledge
cannot possibly be acquired without the neces-
sary training. The only way of obtaining this
is by serving an apprenticesliip with a good
firm of decorators, preferably with a lady de-
corator. Mrs. Keighley, the well-known lady
decorator of Cliurch Street, Kensington, London,
takes pupils at a fee of 300 guineas for a three
years' course of training. A shorter course of
twelve months may also be taken, and the charge
for this is 50 guineas. Students may do much
in the way of acquiring knowledge by visiting
the various museums, such as the South Kensing-
ton, and the Victoria and Albert, to study
specimens of old furniture. A knowledge of
architecture and design will be especially xiseful.
Prospects. - To start a biisiness, capital will
be necessary and also a certain social connection.
As in the case of the house agency business, the
lady who belongs to a good social circle and has
a number of friends will stand the best chance.
If a girl has no capital or good social connection
she should strive to obtain first a position in a
firm of decorators and gradually work her way
up until she is able to set out for herself as an
" adviser," or, if she can raise the capital, in a
business of her own. She would probably begin
at a salary of £1, 10s. a week, rising to £2 a week
as her experience increases.
The woman who starts in business for herself
must, of course, have that business aptitude
which is so indispensable for the successful con-
ducting of any kind of trade,
DRESSMAKING
This is a profession in which women always
stand a good chanco of success. A clever dress-
maker is practically certain of a good clientele.
Smart clothes are a necessity for the feminine
world, and the demand for them always exists,
so that no business can be started under more
favourable auspices than that of dressmaking.
Wliether a woman wishes merely to be an
assistant in a dressmaking firm, or wishes to
start a business of her own, her training should
be a thoroughly prawjtical one - she must learn
the work from the beginning. She may take a
course of lessons at a dressmaking school, but
she should always supplement tliis by going
into the workroom of a good dressmaking firm
in order to get the necessary experience.
The conditions of apprenticeship vary. To
enter many firms of high standing premiums of
£50 to £100 must be paid. With ordinary ap-
prenticeships, however, no fees are taken, and
after six months a small weekly sum is paid to
the apprentice. Every branch of the business
is taught - from sewing on buttons to fitting a
dress.
For the girl who wishes to be an assistant the
post of fitter should be aimed at if her talent
Ues in this direction. Fitting is the most im-
portant branch of the business, an experienced
fitter being able to earn £5 a week and upwards,
whilst the salaries of first bodice and skirt
hands seldom rise above £150 a year, though in
some cases £200 a year is earned.
The woman who wishes to start in business
for herseK should be naturally gifted for the
work. She should have a keen sense of beautiful
lines in fitting and of the art of drapery ; she
should also recognise the principles which govern
a good cut. Tliis knowledge is absolutely neces-
sary if she has to direct fitters and workers.
Prospects. - Many women commence by
making frocks for their friends. If they are
really good workers their clientele increases, and
after some time they are able to secure trained
assistance. Cash payments should be made a
rule, and certain modifications in regard to
price may be held out as an inducement to
customers, for expenses are lessened when money
comes in regularly.
By degi-ecs the dressmaker beginning on these
lines will find her business grow until she has
quite a large connection. To start a West End
business a faii'ly large capital is necessary -
members of the wealthier classes are notoriouslv
neglectful in regard to the prompt settlement
of accounts, and, as a rule, a certain period of
credit must be allowed. Business ability is a
necessity for the dressmaker, who must also
be alive to the possibilities of good advertising
and other matters bearing upon her trade. No
woman should enter the dressmaking business
unless she is prepared for very hard work. The
beginner with few assistants will often be obliged
to sit up far into the night in order to finish
the work entrusted to her, as it is fatal for the
beginner to break promises made to her customer.
A clever woman, by beginning in a small way and
extending her busmess as opportunity presents
itself, will by degrees build up quite a prosperous
business yielding her a good annvial income.
MILLINERY
As with dressmaking so with millinery - ap-
prenticeship is the surest way of learning the
business. To be apprenticed to a good milUner
a girl would have to pay a premium of about
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
669
twenty guineas or less, but rarely more than
tliis sum. The period of training is not so
lengthy as that required for dressmaking, a
millinery apprenticeship lasting, as a rule, for
from six to nine months. It is always wise
after the apprenticeship is over to stay on a
little longer in the shop in order to gain ex-
perience ; during this time the worker would
earn a small salary, beginning at 10s. a week
and rising to 30s. a week. If she does not wish
to open a business of her own she could try
and obtain a post as head milliner in either a
millinery shop or a large drapery establishment
with a millinery department. In this position
she will be required to direct the work of the
millinery workers and apprentices, supervising
the whole working department. Head milliners
often receive a salary of £3 a week.
The woman who wishes to start a business of
her own must have business capacity in addi-
tion to her knowledge of the actual work. It
is business capacity that counts the most in all
businesses - the power of organisation, of direct-
ing others, and checking expenditure and pre-
venting waste. Tlie good business woman
knows that it requires more than mere know-
ledge of millinery to obtain success as a miUiner,
that there are many details, such as choice of
locaUty, &c., which determine the fate of such
a business enterprise, and it is generally to the
neglect of one of these important questions that
the unsuccessful milliner may ascribe her failure.
BEAUTY SPECIALISTS
This is a business wliich promises the most
interesting developments, and is full of interest
and variety. There are now many women who
are drawing large incomes from businesses of
the kind, and who, by their enterprise, have en-
couraged many others to follow in their wake.
A business of tliis kind is only successful in
large towns where the wealtliier classes are well
represented. In smaller towns the clientele
would not be extensive enough to make it pay.
It is necessary also to start in a fashionable
district where house rent and other expenses
would be high, therefore a capital of at least
£500 would in most cases be necessary.
Those who go in for this business must neces-
sarily be women of refinement, A dainty, lady-
like appearance, well-kept hands, a soft, gentle
voice are invaluable assets for she who would
obtain a post as assistant in a business of the
kind. Beauty culture appeals especiall3' to
women of the leisured classes. An air of ex-
clusiveness and refinement must necessarily
pervade the establishment of the beauty spe-
cialist if she wishes to appeal to these classes
especially.
The chief treatments applied at these estab-
lishments are face and neck massage and com-
nlcxion treatment generally, including removal
of blackheads, electrolysis, manicure, and some-
times hair and scalp treatment. A thorough
knowledge of aU these branches is necessary for
the girl who wishes to qualify as an assistant.
There are some girls who will never make good
masseuses, as they lack that light and dehcate
touch which is so necessary, and no beauty
specialist wiU accept a girl as a pupil who does
not promise to be an adept at the work.
Training. - Training can only be obtained at
the estabhshment of a beauty specialist. Terms
of training vary ; sometimes they are very mode-
rate indeed, as girls of refinement with the neces-
sary qualifications are difiicult to find. It is
the rule also with most establisliments that no
pupils are accepted unless they bind themselves
to become assistants of the firm for a certain
period, generally three years. In these cir-
cumstances the terms are usually very favour-
able, one firm ha%ang been known to take an
especially promising pupil for a small fee of
£5, and give her a salary after three months'
training. From three to six months is generally
the period of pupilage, after which a salary is
given. Students must also sign an agreement
to the effect that when they leave the estab-
hshment they will not start a business of their
own witliin a given distance of the place where
they have trained.
Salaries are very good, commencing as a rule at
£1, Is. to £1, 10s. per week and rising as the use-
fulness of the assistant increases. Head assistants
and manageresses receive higher salaries ; the
amount varies in the different establishments.
The girl who wishes to become a pupil cannot
dobetterthan write to a firm of beauty specialists,
such as Mme. Pomeroy in Bond Street, London,
asking if there is a vacancy for a pupil and
upon what terms training may be had.
HAIRDRESSING
More women might turn their attention to
the business of hairdressing with advantage. It
is essentially feminine work, yet work which has
for a long time been to a certain extent mono-
polised by men. Within recent years, however,
ladies have set up as hair specialists with success.
They have studied not only the art of hair-
dressing, but also the hygiene of the head, and
the value of various preparations in curing scalp
troubles. With hairdressing nowadays are also
often associated the various methods of com-
plexion treatment and massage, manicure and
chiropody.
To make a good hairdresser a girl must in
the first place have an innate gift for hair
arrangement and the facility to distinguish the
styles best suited to the various tj7)os of faces.
The best way of learning the business is to take
a course of instruction at a hairdresser's. The
terms vary with the different estabUshments.
In some the apprenticeships last a yeax, in
670
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
others longer, whilst short courses, varying from
three to sis months in duration, may be taken.
The last named are useful for ladies who wish
to set up a private connection by beginning to
do hairdressing for their friends, and also for
those who wish to be ladies' maids. The fees
for a two years' course would probably amount
to from £25 to £30, shorter courses being natur-
ally much cheaper. The pupil is instructed in
every branch of the work, from brushing and
combing, cutting, chpping, and shampooing the
hair to the carrjing out of the fashionable
coifTure ; making and dressing of wigs, and all
kinds of false hair work. The study of the
hygiene of the head and the properties of the
various hair washes and hair dyes must by no
means be neglected by the woman who wishes
to start a hairdressing business of her own.
Prospects. - The posts of assistants are not
highlj' paid, the pay rarely exceeding £2 a week,
whilst 10s. to 15s. a week represents a com-
mencing salary. Besides posts in ordinary
establishments, there are hairdressing depart-
ments in most of our large drapery and
general stores, which are often managed by
ladies. A woman may also form a good private
xasiting connection for hairdressing at fees of 5s.
a visit. There are no end of ways in which the
art can be put to practical accoiint by the good
business woman.
OPENING A TEA-ROOM
Many ladies who have opened tea-rooms are
carrying on quite a profitable business, whilst
others have lost all their little capital in the
endeavour to start an enterprise of the kind. The
reason is that ladies of limited means who
could cook a Uttle and make sweets and cakes
have rushed headlong into the business, fondly
imagining that the little knowledge they pos-
sessed was sufficient for success. Never was
there a greater fallacy. The first thing neces-
sary to make a tea-room pay is sound business
capacity. Servants can bo engaged to do the
cooking and see to the other details, and the
success or failure of a tea-room will depend not
only upon the cooking, though this is of course
important, but chiefly upon the way it is
managed. Choice of locality is an important
consideration - choice should bo made of a spot
where there is little competition from neigh-
bouring establishments, and where a certain
proportion of customers may bo assured. City
tea and luncheon rooms, for instance, should
not be opened in a main street, but in a side
thoroughfare which is well frequented, near im-
portant business houses from which it is easily
accessible.
The outlay on furniture need not be great,
and every inch of space should be utilised to the
best advantage. A long seat can be made to
run the length of the wall, consisting of a large
plank of wood fitted up by a carpenter and
daintily covered with dark green art serge or
cretonne of a pretty pattern. Tables can bo
of the cheapest, as dainty cloths can always be
kept over them to hide their surface. They
should be of various sizes to hold two, four, &c.
The cliief thing in starting a business of the
kind is to establish a distinctive note about the
place which will answer well for the purpose of
advertisement. It is a good plan, for instance,
to call the rooms after the name of a flower
and to carry out the scheme of decoration in
accordance with the floral idea. Thus in
" Daffodil " Tea-rooms the decorative scheme
would be one of green and yellow. Should
there be a shop frontage to the rooms a few
dainty boxes of sweets, or ornaments if sweets
are not sold, should be tastefully displayed upon
billows of yellow art mushn. Vases containing
daffodils might be arranged hero and there -
in the spring the natvual flowers and at other
seasons artificial ones could be used. At the
back the window cordd be partitioned off from
the interior by dainty little yellow curtains
hanging from brass rods. Inside the room wall-
paper and tables should be green, and a bunch
of daffodils in a green vase might be placed
upon each table.
In regard to the cooking a feature should be
made of home-made rolls and cakes, and the
service should be characterised by daintiness
and refinement.
This is only a rough idea of what could be
done by a woman with taste for arrangement.
Menu cards might also have a daffodil painted
upon the cover. Neat little cards enclosing a
typical tariff might be sent round to the various
residents, or offices (if in the city). Tea-rooms
at pleasure resorts should be advertised in the
local paper, and the advertisement should b<*
well and carefully drawn up.
All these details require organisation, manage-
ment, and careful covmting of costs. Book-
keeping will have to be most carefully done, and
the duplicate check -system should be adopted
for the making out of bills. In a tea-room
managed by ladies, ladies are usually engaged
as assistants. No assistants will be necessary
where three or four sisters or friends are en-
gaged in the business. If the cooking is not
done by one of their number, a cook will have to
be engaged, and in any case a servant for the
rough work. Lady assistants in tea-rooms re-
ceive salaries of from about 15s. to £1 a week.
The amount of capital required will depend
to a great extent upon the business capabilities
of the organiser. £200 should be sufficient for
most purposes, and clever women have been
known to found a successful business with half
tliat sum. In most tea-rooms some sort of
lunches, if even only of cold meats, should be
provided. In the city lunch is a necessity, and
hot dishes must always figure on the menu.
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
671
The principal business of city tea-rooms is done
in luncheons - but these need not be expen-
sive. One joint and two made dishes should
figure daily on the menu. This will be iisually
found sufficient with the choice of two sweets,
cakes, &c. In the strawberry season straw-
berries and cream might be provided.
A woman with sound business instinct wiU
rarely make a failure of a venture of this kind,
because before starting out she will have counted
the various ways and means, and will not rush
rashly into any enterprise unless it can be
started imder the most favourable auspices.
SWEET-MAKING
This makes a very pleasant and profitable
home occupation for the woman who is well
acquainted with the method of turning out
dainty and toothsome confectionery, and who
has had a good business traim'ng enabUng her
to cut down expenses to a minimimi, and be
able to calculate to a nicety the sweets that can
be sold at a profit and those which would not
pay for the making.
It is a well-known fact that the ingredients
used in sweet-making come very expensive when
only small quantities are made, and in many
cases the ready-made sweets can be bought for
a lower price than that represented by the cost
of making them. The object of the sweet-
maker mvist therefore be to obtain a large
clientele. This of conrse she will not be able to do
at first, as the quahty of h^v wares must become
known before there can be any large demand for
them ; so she must feel her way gently, com-
mencing with the less expensive sweets, such as
toffees, candies, &c., which do not cost much to
make, and can always be sold at a profit.
And now comes a question of utmost im-
portance, and upon which a great measure of the
success of the business will depend - ^the packing
of the sweets. Few women realise how tasteful
packing of confectionery appeals to almost all
classes of shoppers. For a long time English
sweet-sellers lagged behind in this direction, until
the firm of Fullers gave them an object lesson
in the best way of appealing to the public taste.
Every one is now familiar with the style of
packing which has proved in itself one of the
most successful advertising appeals of the firm
to the public - plain fancy white boxes, stamped
with the logend " Fuller " in neat lettering,
carefully wrapped in white paper stamped with
the same legend, and finally tied round with
ribbon of a tasteful shade, the whole giving an
air of taste and refinement which proves irresis-
tible. It may be hazarded that many a box of
sweets intended as a present has been sold by
yirt,ue of the tasteful ribbon bow by wloich
it was decked. L^-t the womaa sweet-maker
therefore take these principles to heart. Her
b'^xes need not cost much. She can get them
wholesale from a box manufactiirer (a list of
names can be found in a directory). The
plainer and simpler they are the better, but
let them at any rate be distinctive in style.
Perfectly plain white boxes with nairow gold or
silver rims are always effective. In these the
better kinds of sweets should be packed in neat
little frilled paper sweet-cases, whilst candies
and tablets should be neatly done up in wax-
paper. The result of this arrangement will be
twofold, for it will not only add to the dainty
appearance of the sweets, but it will make for
economy, inasmuch that less sweets will be
required to fill each box.
The sweet-maker must have some small
capital with which to lay in a supply of sweet
moulds, cases, boxes, and other necessary im-
plements. For a large business she will have to
lay out at least £10 on these, but one must look
before one leaps, and when beginning in a small
way the following will usually be found sufficient,
as they can be added to as the business increases.
A good sugar thermometer is one of the first
things to be bought, and this will cost from
4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. Success in sweet -making
depends very largely upon boiling the sugar to
the right degree, and it is only with the ther-
mometer that this can be determined with exact-
ness and little trouble. The amatevu- method of
testing the boiling sugar by dropping small
portions into cold water may succeed ; but very
often it does not, and waste of good material
is very often the result. A small marble or
slate slab is another very useful accessory ; but
sometimes the top of a marble washstand can
be utihsed until funds will allow of the correct
article being invested in. One or two strong
enamelled saucepans, a wooden spatula, weights
and scales or a small balance, a wire fork and
ring for Hfting the sweets, some grease-jwoof and
wax-paper, along with the necessary boxes and
paper cases, will complete the prehminary outfit.
Then by degrees special moulds, cutters and other
apparatus may be added to suit the requirements
of the special recipes that may be learnt.
It is, of course, necessary for the sweet-maker
to be thoroughly well vereed in this particular
branch of the culinary art. The woman who
has a decided gift in this direction will learn all
that is necessary by taking a sweet-making
course at a good training school. The fees for
tuition vary in different schools, but as a rxile
they average about 10s. 6d. per lesson, two or
tlu'ee recipes being learned at each. Careful
and constant practice of the recipes is very
important. Cake-making usually forms part
of the coiu^e, and the business might also be
extended to comprise this branch of confectionery
if feasible.
Once she is thoroughly proficient in the art,
the sweet-maker must set about making her
wares known. She can begin by selling to
friends and acquaintances, as already advised ;
672
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
but it will bo necessary for her to secure a wider
public if the business is to bo made to pay. A
neatly-worded advertisement distinguished by
some characteristic illustration or design should
appeeir once or twice a week in the principal
local paper. All the advertising literature should
bo characterised by refinement as well as good
selling arguments. Neat little price lists should
be prepared giving full particulars of the wares
sold, and on the cover of this should also appear
the same pretty design that is used in the
advertisement.
Prospects. - ^There are good prospects of
success principallj' for the good business woman
who is gifted with taste and has good social
connections. Quite recently in a large theatre
under the management of a lady, the whole of
the sweets sold in the theatre were made by a
lady sweet-maker li\'ing in a country vicarage.
Such an order, it will be seen, forms almost a
livelihood in itself, and the lady sweet-maker
should always aim at obtaining orders of the
kind which will enable her to cater for large
communities. Above all she must make good
sweets of many different varieties.
Some Sweet Recipes. - The following recipes
will be found \iseful by those who wish to take
up tlus business, and might serve as a basis upon
wliich to build up a more extensive list which
will become necessary as the clientele increases.
American Candy
Ingredients -
1 lb. Loaf Sugar. 3 oz. Butter.
1 gill Water. Flavouring.
J lb. Glucose.
Metliod. - Put the sugar, water, and glucose
into a saucepan, and melt them slowly over the
fire. Then boil with the thermometer to 290№
Fahr. Add the butter broken in pieces, and boil
again to 305№. Pour the mixture out on a
greased slab ; add flavouring to taste. Fold over
and over with a wooden spoon or spatula, and
when sufficiently cooled work well with the hands,
and pull out into a long roll until it begins to
stiffen. Then cut in pieces with a pair of scissors
and wrap in waxed paper.
Note. - A little colouring may bo added to the
candy if desired.
Aprlcotines
Ingredients. - Equul quantities of apricot pulp
and castor sugar ; and some crystallised sugar.
Method. - Take some good tinned apricots,
lift thorn from the syrup and drain them on a
sieve for half-an-hour. Then rub thom through
a hair sieve and weigh tho pulp. Put this pulp
into a lined saucepan with an equal quantity of
castor sugar. Bring to the boil, and boil until
fairly thick, when tho mixture will begin to draw
away from the sides of tho saucepan. It must
be stirred all tho time, and must not cook too
quickly. Drop small pieces about tho size of a
half -penny on a wetted tin, and sprinkle with
crystallised sugar before they harden. When
firm put two together, the flat sides agEunst
each other ; roll in sugar, and put them in little
crimped paper sweetmeat cases. Small sweet
mioulds may be used for shaping the sweets ;
these should be wet with cold water and sprinkled
inside with granulated sugar before the fruit
pulp is poured into them.
Note. - Other fruit pulp can bo used in tho
same way, but it must be one with a substance,
such as apples, plums, peaches, &c. Currants,
strawberries, and the like are too juicy.
Quince pulp lends itself very well to this pur-
pose, and makes a delicious sweet. The fruit
must be stewed to a pulp with as little water
as possible.
Caramel Walnuts
Ingredients -
J lb. shelled Walnuts. 1 lb. Loaf Sugar.
} lb. ground Almonds. 1 gill of Water.
i lb. Castor Sugar. Lemon Juice.
1 Egg or two yolks. Small Paper Cases.
Flavouring. ColouriDg.
Method. - Put the walnuts on a tin, and toast
them in the oven for about ten minutes. Then
make some almond paste. Sieve the sugar, and
put it into a basin with the ground almonds, a
squeeze of lemon juice, and one egg or two yolks.
Work all into a smooth paste with the hands,
and turn out on a sugared board. Add a few
drops of vanilla or any other flavouring that is
preferred and work again until well mixed. Then
divide this paste into small pieces the size of a
hazel nut, and roll them into balls. Put a half
walnut on each side of these balls, and press them
well in. Proceed thus until all are finished.
Various Colours. - A nice variety is made by
dividing the almond paste into three portions
before the flavouring is added and mrking them
up in different colours ; keep one portion its
natural colour and flavour with vanilla, colour
a second portion pink by adding a few drops of
carmine or cochineal, and flavour with essence
of strawberry, and make tho third green by using
a little spinach green, and flavour with essence of
almonds or ratafia.
The colouring and flavouring must be worked
well into each separate portion. Tho flavouring
may, of course, be varied according to teiste. A
few drops of liqueur may be used instead of a
flavouring essence.
To Make the Caramel. - Put tho loaf sugar,
lemon juice, and water into an iron saucepan or
sugar boiler, and boil quickly without stirring
until a golden brown colour. Then remove the
saucepan quickly from tho fire, and dip the
bottom of it into cold water, to prevent the
caramel burning. Dip the walnuts into this
one at a time ; lift them out with two forks or
with a wire fork or ring, and place them on an
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
673
oiled slab or dish. This must be done very
quickly, as the caramel soon hardens. It is
better if two people can be engaged with it -
one to drop the walnuts into the caramel, and
one to lift them out. Everything must be ready
too before beginning. When all are done,
remove the walnuts from the dish, break off any
superfluous caramel, and place the sweets in
small paper cases.
Caramel Dates and French Plums
These may be prepared in the same way as
caramel walnuts, and make a nice variety. Very
good soft fruit must be chosen, because, if dry,
the caramels will be hard and tasteless. Remove
the stonesfrom the dates or plums without cutting
the fruit in two or breaking it in any way. Then
fill the centres with an almond-shaped piece of
almond paste, and roll slightly with the hands to
form a neat shape. Allow these to dry for a few
hours, and then coat with caramel and finish as
above. A green or pink filMng looks particu-
larly pretty with this kind of sweet.
Chocolate Caramels
Ingredients -
1 lb. Loaf Sugar. J lb. Chocolate,
1 gill Water or Milk. 6 oz. Glucose.
1 gill Cream. Vanilla.
} lb. Butter.
Method. - Put the sugar, milk and glucose into
a saucepan, melt slowly and then boil to 245№ F.
Cut the chocolate into small pieces, and melt it
in another saucepan without any water. TTiis
is best done in an earthenware saucepan in the
oven, or by placing the saucepan inside another
containing hot water. Add the butter to the
chocolate, and when quite melted add these to
the sugar, &c., and boil aU together to 245№ or
250№. The mixture must not be stirred after
the chocolate is added, but must be boiled very
carefully to prevent it burning. Flavour with
vanilla and pour out in a shallow oiled tin. Mark
in squares with the back of a knife or with a
ceiramel cutter, and when nearly cold cut the
mixture right through. Wrap the caramels in
wax-paper.
Coffee Caramels
Make in the same way as chocolate cai'amels,
using sufficient essence of coffee to flavour
instead of the chocolate, and three ounces of
butter instead of a quarter of a pound. The
coffee and butter must not be added until the
syrup has boiled to 245№, and after that the
mixture must not be stirred.
Ingredients -
1 lb. Loaf Sugar.
i lb. Glucose.
Cocoa-nut Drops
1 gill of Water.
6 oz. Dessicated Cocoa-nut.
Method. - Put the sugar, water and glucose
into a lined saucepan, bring to the boil and
skim. Put the lid on the pan and boil rapidly
for five minutes. Then remove the bd and boil
to 240№ F. Take the saucepan off the fire, and
add the cocoa-nut and a little flavouring if
wished. Arrange in small rocky heaps on a
papered tray and leave them to dry.
Note. - If Hked, the mixture may be divided in
two portions and one part coloured pink.
Method. - Soak the gelatine in the water for
half-an-hour, then put it into a saucepan with
the sugar, bring to the boil, and boil for twenty
minutes, stirring all the time. Divide into two
portions, and colour and flavour according to
taste. For instance, coloiir one half pink with
a little carmine or cocliineal and flavour with
raspberry or strawberry essence, and coloiu: the
other half a pale yellow and flavour with lemon,
or colour green and flavour with peppermint.
Turn each portion into a wetted soup plate or
pie-dish, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and
leave until the next day. Then turn out, cut
in neat square or oblong-shaped pieces, and
roll them in granulated sugar. Leave spread
out until dry and crisp on the outside.
Ingredients-
2 lbs. Demerara Sugar.
2 gills Cold Water.
Guiger Tablet
1 oz. Ground Ginger.
Method. - Put the sugar and water into a lined
or copper saucepan and stir till they come to the
boil. Remove any scum, and then boil till a
little dropped in water will form a " soft ball,"
about 245№ F. Take the saucepan off the fixe,
add the ginger, and keep stirring until the
mixture begins to turn thick. Have a flat oven
tin lined with greased paper, pour the mixture
into this and let it remain until cold. Cut or
saw into neat pieces of equal size. A better
way of shaping the tablet is to lay four iron rods,
which are sold for the purpose, on a marble or
stone slab so as to form a square and to pour
the tablet in the centre of this. By tlus means
the edges will be kept even and the pieces will
be more regular in shape.
Note. - Lemon and rose tablet can be made in
the same way, substituting wliite loaf for brown
sugar, and essence for the ground seasoning.
Fruit Marzipan
Ingredients -
1 lb. Loaf Sugar. h lb. Ground Almonds.
1 table-spoonful Fruit Pulp. A pinch of Cream of Tartar.
i gill Water. Glacd Icing.
Method.^-Pwt the sugar, cream of tarteir and
water into a saucepan and boil to 250№. Then
add the almonds and the fruit pulp. This
2u
674
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
latter must bo sicvcni and of a very thick con-
sistency- apricot pulp is very suitable for the
purpose. Tlion stir over a slow fire until the
mixture is thick and draws away from the sides
of the pan. Turn out on a slab, and when cool
roll out to quarter of an inch in tluckness. The
mixture may be coloured if wished and flavovu--
ing may be added. Coat the top with some thin
glac6 icing (see p. 225), sprinkle with finely
chopped pistachio nuts, and cut into fancy shapes
with a very sharp knife.
Method. - Prepare some almond paste the
same as for caramel walnuts or for fruit mar2dpan,
and flavour it with orange-flower water or any
other flavouring preferred. Remove any hard
sugar from the cherries by placing them in hot
water for a minute ; then form the paste into
shapes resembling very small new potatoes, and
place a cherry in the centre of each. They
must not be too large. Roll them in finely
powdered chocolate and mark a few eyes in each.
Small pieces of other preserved fruits may bo
used instead of the cherries, but there must, of
course, be no stone in the fniit, and it must not
bo hard nor too much crystalUsed.
Opera Creams
Ingredients -
1 lb. Loaf Sugar. Cream.
1 gUl Water. Icinj,' .Sugar.
2 oz. Glucose. Flavouring.
Method. - Put tho sugar, water and glucose
into a saucepan and melt slowly over the fire,
Btirrring all the time until tho sugar is melted.
Skim well and wash any scum off the sides
of tho saucepan with a small brush. Then boil
with tho thermometer to 245№. Pour on a slab
and work until white, first with a wooden
spoon or spatula and then with the hands.
Then put this fondant back into tho saucepan,
add a little cream and enough icing sugar to
bring it back to tho right consistency for shaping.
Flavour to taste and put out again on tho slab.
Form into a square, using a little icing sugar to
prevent it sticking to tho hands. Then roll out
to one inch in thickness, making tho mixture as
smooth and oven as possible. Leave until cold
and set, and then cut in squares with a very
sharp knife.
These creams aro great favourites, and they
may bo mado in a variety of colours and flavours.
Ingredifnts -
1 lb. Icing Sugar.
1 A\'hite of Egg.
Peppermint Creams
Oil of ■Peppermint.
1 table-spoonful Water.
and moisten with tho white of egg and water.
Work with tho hands into a smooth, soft paste,
flavouring with a few drops of oil of peppermint.
When the paste is pUable and free from cracks,
roU it out to one-eighth of an inch in thickness
on a board that has been sprinkled with sieved
icing sugar. Cut out into rounds with a small
cutter and place aside on a sheet of white paper
sprinkled with castor sugar, and let them remain
until dry. The cutter should be dipped into
castor sugar to prevent it sticking to the paste.
The scraps ought to be pressed together and
rolled out again until all are used.
A few drops Oil of Pepper-
mint.
Another Method
Ingredients -
1 lb. Icing Sugar.
J tea-sp. Cream of Tartar
2 or 3 table-sp. of Cream. I
Method. - Sieve the sugar into a basin, add
the cream of tartar, and when thoroughly mixed
add enough cream to form a stiff paste. Turn
out on a sugared board and knead with the hand
until smooth and pliable, working in the pepper-
mint flavouring. Tlien cover the paste over and
let it rest for an hour. Finish off as above.
Chocolate Peppermints
Make some peppermint creams as above,
then dissolve a quarter of a pound sweet choco-
late in an earthenware saucepan. This must
be done very slowly and stirred all the time ; no
water is required, and it must not be allowed to
become too hot. Dip the peppermint creams
into this, and hf t them out with a wire fork and
place them on paper to drain. This must bo
done as quickly as possible.
Method. - Sieve the icing sugar into a basin
I ngredicnts-
1 lb. Loaf Sugar.
1 gill of Water.
Peppermint Cushions
Essence of Peppermint.
A pinch of Cream of Tartar.
Method. - Put tho sugar, water and cream of
tartar into a lined saucepan and boil to 270№ F.,
removing any scum that may rise. Pour this
out on a marblo slab and sprinkle over it a few
drops of peppermint. Great care must be taken
not to flavour too strongly.
Fold over and over with a wooden spatula,
and when cool enough pull out with the hands
until quito white and firm and in the shape of
a long roll. Cut in pieces with a strong pair of
scissors.
Russian Toffee
Ingredients -
1 lb. Brown Sugar.
} lb. WTiitc Sugar.
I lb. Butter.
1 gill Cream.
1 table-sp. Golden Syrup.
Vanilla flavouring.
Method. - First dissolve the butter in a lined
saucepan or sugar boiler, then a(ld the other
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
675
2 oz. Shelled and Chopped
Walnuts.
1 oz. Butter.
ingredients and flavour nicely with vanilla.
Boil all together until the toffee feels crisp when
tested in a little cold water. It must be stirred
all the time, and when ready it wiU draw away
from the sides of the pan. Pour the toffee into
a well-greased shallow tin. Mark it across in
squares, and when nearly cold cut in pieces with
a very sharp knife. Wrap the pieces in waxed
paper.
Walnut Molasses
Ingredients -
1 lb. Brown Sugar.
1 gill Water.
A pinch of Cream of Tartar,
Method. - Toast the walnuts in the oven for
a few minutes and then chop them somewhat
roughly.
Put the wat"r, sugar and cream of tartar into
a lined saucepan and boil with the thermometer
to 280№ F., adding the butter just before it
reaches this point. Pour out on a marble slab
into a long shape, sprinkle with the walnuts, and
fold over with a wooden spoon or spatula. When
slightly cool roll with the hands and pull out
vmtil about the tliickness of a thin walking-
stick. Then cut quickly in pieces with a pair
of strong scissors, allow the pieces to cool, and
twist them into small pieces of waxed paper.
If this sweetmeat is left exposed to the air,
especially in damp weather, it becomes sticky.
Note. - Chopped hazel nuts may be used
instead of walnuts.
OPENING A TYPEWRITING OFFICE
There are many typewriting offices in London
and other large towns which are doing very good
business, whilst others have proved unmistak-
able failiu-es.
It is true that, as comparedwith the conditions
prevailing some seven or eight years ago, there
is a great deal of competition in this particular
business, and as is the case with every other
calling, it is the pioneers who have reaped the
most benefit from it ; but there is no reason
why a new typewriting office should not be
estabhshed successfully by the woman who has
had a thorough training in typewriting, short-
hand, and general business methods, and who
has good experience of all kinds of copying work.
Training. - To leam the ins and outs of every
branch of the business it is always better to
spend a few months in a first-class typewrit-
ing office after the regular business training has
been completed. Be careful, however, to select
a really good office doing brisk business with
an extensive and varied clientele. There are
usually vacancies to be found in most copying
offices for those who are willing to work at a
moderate salary - or to give their services in
return for the experience affcrded.
The learner should take special pains to get
pr-.ctice in reading badly-written MSS. Cali-
graphy of all kinds has to be deciphered in a
typewriting office, and it would go ill with the
office where such writing could not be copied
from without serious mistake. Training in all
the various kinds of copying work is also
necessary ; specifications, scientific work, legal
work, verse, authors' MSS., plays, parts of the
characters in plays - all have to be copied in a
distinctive style, whilst special paper has to be
used and special ruling made in many cases.
Then the various processes of stencil duplicating
win have to be mastered. Speed, accuracy, and
neat work are the great objects to be aimed
at. Good work always proves the best adver-
tisement in this as well as in every other line
of business. A good practical knowledge of
languages is also necessary, for translation is
another important branch of a typewriting
business. Those who are able to add research
work and indexing to the ordinary typewriting
office routine work will find that these are two
useful and remimerative additions to the
business.
Prospects. - It is always better for two friends,
or sisters, to start a business of the kind, be-
ginning in a small way, for this will save the cost
of paid assistance. They should have enough
capital to ensure at least the first year's rent
and working expenses, light, telephone, &c., in
addition to paj ing for the furniture and fittings.
The amount of the capital necessary will
depend upon the locality selected, as rents are
much higher in some places than in others. It
will be necessary to start in a central district,
and upon the district chosen will depend to
a large extent the kind of work taken to the
offices. In some places, such as in the neigh-
bourhood of the Strand and near Bedford Street
and its environs, theatrical work wiU predomi-
nate. In busy city districts business typing
and letters will be the cliief work ; in legal and
parliamentary environs law work will predomi-
nate. An office should always be chosen in
some such centre of activity where, to begin
with at any rate, some crumbs of work may fall
to the share of the new typewriting office, even
if the whole loaf or at least a good half of it
cannot be had at first. It is worse than useless
to start an office far from any centre of activity.
Those who start vmder the most favourable
auspices are womc^n who have managed to es-
tablish a small connection for type-copying work
pt home before launching out into business.
At first all the work can be undertaken by the
principals. Then as the business increases it
will become necessary to add to the staff. A
very remunerative branch of the work consists
of taking in and training pupils - but a word of
warning^ in this respect. Never entrust respon-
sible work to a mere beginner, even in times of
stress. The work sent out by some typewriting
offices is notoriously bad, because to save ex-
pense it is nearly all entrusted to young girls
676
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
who are learning the business. This is a very
false method of economy - a method which will
do more than anything else to bring the business
into disrepute, and which has been the cause
of the failure of many offices which might have
been flourishing to-day if more honourable
business methods had been adopted. It does
not follow, however, that pupils should not be
made to prove themselves useful - especially as
the best method of learning from their point of
view is by practical experience - but let their
capabilities be well tested before they are en-
trusted with important work.
All the work should be vmder the personal
supervision of the principal, who should see that
nothing but good work leaves the office. In tliis
way alone can success be attained.
It is always better to have a ground floor or a
firstfloor for offices,at anyrate until one is known,
but this will depend a great deal upon circum-
stances and according to where the offices are
situated. It is advisable to begin with two
rooms at least.
Neat little price-lists should be made out for
the use of chents, and should be distributed
amongst business firms and other possible
clients. It is a good idea to print on the back
of these price-lists any testimonials received in
regard to efficiency and accuracy of work.
Terms should be strictly cash.
The following is a guide to the prices charged
for various kinds of typewriting : -
Legal and general copying, per folio
(72 words)
Verse and scientific copying, per folio
Authors' MSS. under 3000 words, per
1000
Authors' MSS., in quantities of 3000
words and over, per 1000 words .
Authors' MSS., if over 10,000 words,
per 1000
Plays, per Act of 18 pp. (4to. typed)
Plays, after 18 pp., per page . .
Actors' parts, per page (size of page,
half foolscap)
Typing from French, German, Span-
ish, Itahan, per foUo . . .
Typing plays from above languages,
per Act, 18 pages ....
Addreasing envelopes, per 1000 .
Each Carbon Copy half price.
Dictation
n
1 3
1 0
10
5 0
n
2i
8 0
7 6
3 C
Typing from dictation, per hour . .
(Carbon copies half price.)
Hire of typewriter and operator, per
hour 3 6
Hire of typewriter and operator, per
day irom 12 0
Hire of typewriter and operator, per
week by arrangement.
Stencil Duplicating
Letters, Circulars, Specifications, Balance
Sheets, Abstracts of Titles, Drafts, d;c.
£ a. d.
Per 25 pages. Quarto size ... 26
" 50 ,. " " . . . 3 6
., 100 " " " . . . 4 6
" 500 " "" ... 18 0
" 25 pages. Foolscap size ... 30
" 50 " " " . . . 4 6
" 100 " " " . . . 6 0
" 500 ., " ,,...110
,, 25 pages. Draft size .... 40
" 50 " "".... 69
" 100 " "".... 86
,, 25 pages. Brief size .... 50
" 50 " "".... 69
" 100 " "".... 86
Shorthand
Attendance for letters, &c., per hour . 3 6
Transcribing notes, per folio ... 2
Translations
French, German, Spanish, ItaUan
into English, per folio ....
EngUsh into French, German, Spanish,
ItaUan, per folio
1 0
1 6
A weU-managed office opened in a suitable
locality should be miade to pay expenses by the
end of the first year. A type-copying business is
essentially one where periods of great activity,
followed by intervals of slackness of work, occiu".
The proprietor of the office should regulate her
expenditure accordingly, and make provision
for those periods when work is scarce.
CANVASSERS
Women canvassers are largely employed by
firms who wish to introduce their work to the
public, also by advertisement managers and
agents and by publishers.
The calling is not one which wiU appeal to
the majority of educated women, although the
clover canva.sser can make a very good income
indeed. Tact and persuasive power are the two
most important assets of the canvtisser. She
must have a good amount of the quality called
" push," being slow to take a rebioJS ; above all
she must not be sensitive. The unduly sensi-
tive woman is totally unfit for a position of the
kind.
Canvassers may be required to travel - their
travelling expenses being paid, of course - or to
work in their own town. They are paid in two
ways. Most often they are paid by commi&sion
only ; in this case the commission being a large
one, from 20 to 25 per cent. In other cafiea
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
677
they receive a small salary of from £1, 10s. to
£2 a week, with a small commission ranging
from 6 to 10 per cent.
The experienced canvasser prefers the large
commission and no salary basis, as this repre-
sents to her a greater income, and although
business is often dull for even the best of can-
vassers, she can save out of her earnings when
business is brisk to tide her over the dull
times. Many women, however, prefer a sure
and steady income, however small, and the
woman canvasser who has not had much ex-
perience would do well to try and obtain work
on the salary and small commission basis.
Boarding-House Proprietress. - A boarding-
house may turn out a very profitable investment
for the business woman who manages to get
together a good connection. Sufficient capital
to pay the first year's expenses wiU be necessary,
the amount depending a great deal upon locaHty,
size of the house, and rental. The most paying
investment is to be found in the large boarding-
house where things are done on a generous
scale. It is a mistake to fiirnish a house poorly,
and give indifferent food with a low tariff.
These methods will never attract the right sort
of people. Everything in a boarding-house
should be well done, the rooms shoiild be taste-
fully furnished, the cooking good, and the service
above reproach. The tariff also should be kept
at a figure that wiU allow for good catering. In
London the terms should never be less than
two guineas a week for full board, and £1, 10s.
a week for partial board. At the seaside two and
a half guineas a week should be the minimum
charge dvu-ing the season, a charge of £1, 10s.
being made during the slack time at places
where visitors are only attracted in large
numbers dtu-ing one or tWo months of the year.
Extra is always charged for meals served in bed-
rooms, and also for fires in bedrooms.
The best advertisement for a boarding-house
is essentially that obtained by good cooking and
strict attention to the comfort of the guests.
It is important also that meals should be served
with strict punctuality. In the dining-room
should be a number of little tables, as the different
family parties, as a rule, will prefer to have a
table to themselves. Table linen should be
fresh and clean, and silver brightly polished.
Some flowers should be arranged in vases on
each little table. For dinner one or two menu
cards should be placed on each table. The
waiting should be quickly and quietly done, and
there should be at least three maids waiting
where there are thirty guests.
Good wages should be paid to the servants.
As a rule, servants prefer Ufe in a boarding-house,
owing to the addition to their wages in the way
of gratuities, and they will got through an
amount of hard work quite cheerfuUy in these
circumstances. A considerate mistress, there-
fore, should be able to keep her servants with
httle difficulty, for nothing tends to upset the
ordinary routine than constant changes in the
staff.
It is essential that a boarding-house keeper
be a good housewife. She should herself attend
to all the ordering of provisions. Special terms
are granted to boarding-house keepers as far
as these are concerned. Care must be taken,
however, to see that all the provisions are of the
best, and custom should be at once withdrawn
when satisfaction is not given in this respect.
At the seaside and other pleasure resorts the
boarding-house keeper should also be able to
organise amusements for her guests. One or
two dances might be given during the season, for
which a small subscription of from 7s. 6d. to
10s. each from aU who wish to be present should
be asked. Picnics to places of interest in the
neighbourhood should also be arranged. The
seaside boarding-house keeper should be able
to count on the return year after year of some
of her visitors, at least, and by strict attention
in every way to their amusement as well as to
their comfort she can count upon keeping
together a regular clientele.
Several quahties besides mere business ability
will be foimd to contribvite to the success of the
proprietress of a boarding establishment. The
lady of accomphshments and refinement, who
has an abundance of tact to enable her to deal
successfully with the many different types of
character with whicli she must necessarily m
such a business come into contact, vnll prove
more successful than the hard-working common-
place woman who does all the cooking herself,
and is notliing more than a mere domestic
drudge.
CIVIL SERVICE AND PUBLIC WORK
There are openings for women in many departments of the Civil Service, the Post OflSce in particular
affording good opportunities, and giving employment to many thousands of girls and women tlirough-
out the kingdom. The principal appointments in the Post Office are open to public competition,
whilst appointments in other branches of pubhc work are subject to nomination or are open to limited
competition only. This is a fact to be borne in mind by women who aim at an Inspectorship
or some other similarly liigh Government post. In this article the various branches of Civil Service
and pubhc work are described and full information given in regard to the prospects ofiered in each
individual branch.
THE POST OFFICE
As a career for girls and women the Post
Office presents many advantages - chief amongst
which are regular employment and a pension
after a long period of service. Girls and women
in the employ of the Post Office may be either : -
Clerks
Telegraphists
Counter Clerks and Telegraphists
Sorters
Telephonists
Postmistresses
Learners.
There is a great deal of misunderstanding in
regard to the scope and character of the employ-
ment offered by the Post Office to women, and
for this reason a largo number of girls are
deterred from entering upon a career which has
the double advantage of security with a pension
to come at the end of a long term of service.
The prevaihng notion is that to be in the service
of the Post Office entails seUing stamps or
taking telegrams behind the counter of any
branch office. This is quite a fallacy. Learners
and counter-women have to do this, it is true,
but the Post Office employees falling under the
general designation of the word " clerk " never
come into contact with the public at all. They
are employed in the Accountant-General's De-
partment, the Money Order Department, the
Savings Bank Department, or the Telephone
Exchange.
Post Office clerks are much better off in every
way than clerks in business houses. The hours
are short, not numbering more than seven daily
- a yearly hoUday of one month is allowed,
also all the public holidays. Not only are
pensions granted to those who retire after a
long term of service, but all female clerks who
have been in the bervicљ of the Post Office for a
678
term of six years receive a dowry when they
resign their positions upon marriage.
The training of girls for clerkships in the
Civil Service should begin quite early, as they
are not eligible for any of the entrance examina-
tions after the age of twenty. No girl under
sixteen or over eighteen is ehgible for the
examination for " girl clerkships," and no girl
under eighteen or over twenty is eligible for the
examinations for women clerkships, whilst candi-
dates for learnersliips and sorterships must be
between the age of fifteen and eighteen years.
Competitive examinations for these positions are
held every six months or every year. There are
certain conditions relative to the employment
of women in the Civil Service which must be
complied with. All clerks and other Post Office
employees are required to pass a medical exe'^^-
nation, and to be re-vaccinated if it is thought
necessary. They must have good references as
to character, and reside with their parents or
guardians or with any relatives or friends ap-
proved of by their parents or guardians. They
must also be natural born or naturalised British
subjects and at least five feet in height. Post
Office female employees must also be single, and
with the exception of post-mistresses are re-
quired to resign their appointments upon
marriage.
Women Clerkships. - There are abundant
prospects in the Civil Service for tlie clever
girl who is a good worker and who has made up
her mind to get on. Women clerkships are
divided into two classes. In the second class
the salary is £65, rising at the rate of £5 a year
to £110. In the first cIeiss the salaries begin at
£115 and rise to £140. But the chances of pro-
motion do not end here. A first-class clerk
may be promoted to the position of principal
clerk, with a salary of £150, rising by annual
increments of £10 to £200. Then she may rise
CIVIL SERVICE AND PUBLIC WORK
679
to be an assistant superintendent, with a salary
of £210 to £260. Deputy superintendents re-
ceive salaries of from £270 to £330, and super-
intendents, £280 to £500. There are not so many
vacancies in the higher positions, and as the
competition for them is very keen, only women
of great intelligence and ability will succeed in
working their way up to posts of this kind.
Girl Clerks. - Girl clerks must be between
sixteen and eighteen years of age. The com-
mencing salary is £42, rising at the rate of £3
per annum to £48. At the end of the two years
competent girl clerks are promoted to women
clerkships as soon as the necessary vacancies
occur - or if they are not deemed sufficiently
competent for the promotion they may be
transferred to the class of " sorters."
Examinations for Girl and Women Clerkships.
- Those who enter for the CivU Service examina-
tions for girl clerkships must be between the
ages of sixteen and eighteen, and those who enter
for the exaniinations for women clerkships be-
tween the ages of eighteen and twenty. Candi-
dates must send in their names to the examiners
as wishing to enter for the examination within
the time specified by the CivU Service Commis-
sioners. Examinations are, as a rule, held every
six months, and the exanaination fee is 10s.
Candidates for both clerkships will require to
satisfy tlie examiners in the following subjects : -
Enghsh Composition.
Arithmetic (general).
Geography (general).
-p , I Only two of these subjects may
f~. I be taken.
German J
•"* lu i.- I Only two of these subjects
Mathematics V , . ,
Shorthand J ^^y be taken.
Girl and women Post Office clerks are not
employed in the provinces. Clerkships are only
to be had at the large central offices in London,
Dublin, and Edinburgh.
Other Advantages of Post Office Clerkships. -
Girl and women clerks at the General Post
Office are treated with the utmost considera-
tion. To begin with the hours are short and
regular, every provision is made for their com-
fort, and as employees are not allowed out in
office hours meals are supplied upon the pre-
mises at the most moderate charges, a good
luncheon being obtainable for a few pence.
Though the authorities are very strict in regard
to the vulos for the medical examination upon
entry, insisting upon a perfect bill of health, if
by chance an employee should fall ill every
consideration is shown to her. In the case of
a long illness full pay is granted up to six months,
if there is a reasonable chance of the patient's
recovery to good health.
In most occup"tions open to both men and
women there is a certain element of uncer-
tainty- changes constantly occm- in the manage-
ment of offices, which entail changes in the staff,
so that an employee, except in rare instances,
cannot feel absolutely safe. In regeird to the
Post Office, the position of a girl or woman of
average capabihty who does her work well is
secure, whilst the chances of promotion are
many. Should a woman wish to retire after
ten years' service, she is eligible for a pension ;
and the marriage dowry after six years' service,
consisting of one month's salary for each year
she has served, are gifts not by any means to
be despised.
Taking all things into consideration, there are
few careers for women which present better all-
round prospects than that offered by the Post
Office.
Sorters. - ^Though the commencing salary of
a girl sorter is small, a good chance of pro-
motion to a clerkship is to be had, inasmuch as
candidates who are successful in the sorters'
examination secure an extension of the age-
limit of entry for the woman clerkship examina-
tions to twenty-five. The duties of female
sorters consist principally in sorting and
arranging official papers relating to Savings
Bank, Money or Postal Order business, and
they are mostly employed in the Sa\'ings Bank
Department and in the Money Order Depart-
ment. The age limits are fifteen to eighteen.
The hours of attendance are eight daily between
6 A.M. and 6 p.m. The salary commences at 14s.
a week rising to 22s., and an annual holiday of
three weeks is given. Candidates require to
satisfy the examiners in -
Reading and copying MS
Handwriting
Spelling
Aritlimetic (first four rules simple and
compound)
Geography of the United Kingdom.
Female Learners, Telegraphists, and Counter
Clerks. - These positions involve coming into
contact ^vith the pubUc at any Post Office.
Candidates for learnerships must be between
fifteen and eighteen years of age, and pass an
examination in Enghsh composition, arithmetic,
and geography. The examination fee is 4s.
The commencing salary for learners is 7s. on
entry, 10s. 6d. a week when proficiency in instru-
ment duty is reached, and 14s. a week after one
year's service at 10s. 6d. if still under the age
of eighteen. In the provinces 5s. a week is the
initial salary, rising to 13s. 6d. Tlie proba-
tionary period of learnership is usually about a
year, at the end of which competent learners
are given appointments as telegraphists, or
counter clerks and telegrapliists, as soon as the
requisite vacancies occur. In London, tele-
graphists and counter clerks receive a com-
mencing salary of 16s. a week, rising to 30s.
and 40s. In the provinces the rate of pay is
from 12s. or 13s. to 36s. The working hours
680
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
are eight daily. Employees 8tre paid for over-
time work.
Typists in the Civil Service. - Appointments
in the Civil Service as female typists are not
open to public competition. Candidates must
be nominated by the head љf the office in which
they are to serve ; they must not be younger
than eighteen yefirs of age or older than thirty,
and are required to pass an examination in
writing, spelling, composition, copying, firith-
metic, typewriting, and shorthand, if required.
A limited competition may in some cases be
held. The salary of a woman typist in the
Civil Service begins at £1 a week, rising at the
rate of 2s. a week yearly to £1, 6s. a week.
Superintendents receive salaries of 35s. to £2
a week. Typists retiring upon superannuation
are eligible for a pension, and a dowry is granted
upon marriage after six years' service. Female
typists are employed in the Post Office, the
offices of the Board of Education, the Scottish
Education Department, the Colonial Office, the
Board of Agriculture and Fisheries, Customs,
Foreign Office, Local Government Board, the
War Office, the Public Works Office, and in all
the principal Government offices.
Training. - Emphasis has already been laid
upon the necessity of beginning to train early
for the Civil Service examinations. The ordi-
nary school training is not sufficient ; a special
course of study is necessary, varying in extent
from six months to one year, and sometimes
longer, in accordance with the capabilities of the
pupil. In some exceptional cases three months'
preparation have been found sufficient, but
successful students in these circumstances
possessed talents greatly above the average.
As a rule, it will be found advisable to extend
the training over the year, though ra&ny suc-
cesses have been achieved after six months'
special study.
Whatever the extent of the training may
be, too much stress cannot be laid upon the
importance that it should be a special one for
the Civil Service, and taken under the guidance
of some person or persons who make preparation
for the Civil Service examinations a special
feature of their curriculum. Private coaching
may be taken, or a course undergone at one of
the business and Civil Service training colleges,
such as Clark's College, London. The cost of
training for girl and women clerks averages
£7, 16s. for six months, and £14 for one year.
For evening classes only, £3 for six months and
£5, 10s. for a year's training.
PUBLIC WORK
Women now occupy salaried positions in
many departments of public work. The nximber
of these appointments, however, is necessarily
limited, although there is every indication that
the opportunities in this direction will bo ex-
tended. The chief Government appointments
are mostly filled by nomination, and to obtain
them some influence is therefore necessary.
Factory Inspectors under the Home Office. -
There are now seventeen women factory in-
spectors under the Home Office, and in London,
Glasgow, Manchester, Birmingham, and Belfast
a senior woman inspector is stationed at the
head of an office and staff. Candidates for
these inspectorships must be nominated by the
Secretary of State before they can enter for the
examination to the Civil Service Commissioners
which they are required to pass. All the neces-
sary information may be obtained from the
Secretary of State, the Home Office, S.W.
Tlie work of these inspectors is of the utmost
importance in securing the weKare of the many
thousands of girl and women factory workers.
The work includes the inspection of the places
where dangerous macliinery or dangerous pro-
cesses of manufacture are used, caring for the
health of the workers and seeing to the general
sanitary conditions, investigating accidents, en-
forcing the education of children employed in
factories and workshops, and supervising hours
of employment, conducting prosecutions where
necessary, &c. The inspectors work under the
general supervision of the chief lady inspector
at the Home Office.
After passing the preliminary examination
two years' probation must be undergone, at the
end of which a final qualifjdng examination
has to be passed in the law relating to factories
and workshops and sanitary science as applied
to factories and workshops. The age hmit is
twenty-five to forty.
The conunencing salary is £200 a year ; senior
inspectors earn from £300 to £400, whilst the
salary of the cliief inspector at the Home Office
begins at £400, rising to £550.
Poor Law Inspectors (under the Local Govern-
ment Board). This is quite a new fie'd for the
woman worker, there being now only six in-
spectors under the direction of the lady super-
intendent, and three of these (all trained nurses)
were appointed as recently as 1910. There is
every prospect, however, that as the usefulness
of the work of these ladies is demonstrated the
nvunber of appointments will be increased.
An amount of evidence collected by the
Woman's Local Government Society from
Boards of Guardians throughout the country,
bearing upon the necessity of appointing women
inspectors, has been put before the Royal Com-
mission on the Poor Laws, and it is to be trusted
that this may result in the appointment of a
large number of inspectors.
The work includes the inspection of work-
houses, especially in regard to women and chil-
dren, infirmaries, schools and certified homes,
lying-in wards, the inspection of boarded-nut
children, &c. There is as yet no complete
organisation of the work, nor any definite rules
CIVIL SERVICE AND PUBLIC WORK
681
for appointment. Candidates, however, should
be trained hospital nurses, and have had some
experience in administrative posts. The com-
mencing salary is £200 a year. All the necessary
information in regard to these appointments
may be obtained from the Secretary, Local
Government Board, Whitehall, London, S.W.
School Inspectors. - Women school inspectors
are appointed by the Board of Education. The
appointments are by nomination, and there are
no set rules in regard to qualifications, although
itispectors should be women of good education
and show the necessary aptitude for the work.
The inspector of schools should have a good
knowledge and understanding of educational
work, be a good critic of teaching, and able to
recognise the methods most fitting for the end
in view, and, above all, they should have experi-
ence in the actual educational work of schools
wliich are to come under their notice.
Women inspectors are appointed to inspect
elementary, secondary, and training schools,
technical schools including schools of domestic
science under the Board, and training colleges
for preliminary and secondary teachers. There
is also a needlework directress and an assistant
directress of needlework.
Prospects. - The salaries of women inspectors
are at the rate of from £200 to £400 per annum,
the chief woman inspector receiving from £400
to £500 a year. The needlework directress
receives a salary of £300, and the assistant
directress a salary of from £80 to £150 per
annum.
School Attendance Officers. - There are also
openings for women school attendance officers
under a number of County Councils. A pre-
liminary examination must be passed, and
successful candidates must undergo a medical
examination before they are finally approved.
The work consists in seeing that all the children
in the district attend the pubHc elementary
schools unless their education is being well cared
for in another way. The attendance officer
has to report all cases of absence from school,
and if these are not due to illness or other
sufficient cause it is her duty to prosecute the
parents at the police court where necessary.
The school attendance officer should have
an intimate knowledge of the prevailing local
conditions of the district in which she works,
and she should have a good fund of tact to
enable her to deal satisfactorily with the people
with whom she must come into contact.
Prospects. - Salaries vary according to the
different local authorities. In London the
salaries range from £80 to £156 per annum. The
age limit is from twenty-five to thirty -five.
Other Salaried Public Appointments. - There
are several other paid pubUc appointments
available to women which, though at present
limited in number, promise to increase in the
future. In connection with the Labour Ex-
changes Act women officials are appointed upon
the various labour exchanges at salaries com-
mencing at £130 a year. There are also women
registrars in England, Ireland, and Scotland.
Medical officers and sanitary inspectors are also
appointed by local authorities (see under Medi-
cine). At present there are six women relieving
officers in London and eleven in the provinces.
In London the salary commences at £80 per
anniun. (See also Sanitary Inspectors and
Health Visitors.)
ARTS AND CRAFTS
In this article the various branches of art and music which ofEer opportunities to talented women
are carefully considered, together with those minor arts and crafts which ofler a fair means of liveli-
hood to the painstaking worker.
Emphasis must be laid upon the fact that in the higher ranks of the artistic professions only
those who have great talents, combined with an abundance of energy and capacity for hard work,
can hope to attain success.
MUSICAL PROFESSION
Performers. - ^Exceptional talents and capa-
bilities are required by the girl who wishes to
take up any branch of the musical profession as
performer with any measure of success, and the
girl of average capabilities had better pause
before she embarks upon a career in which even
genius has a hard struggle before it attains
recognition. Many girls rush headlong into the
profession, either as pianists, violinists, or voca-
hsts, only to find that there is no room for those
with mediocre gifts, and that the vast army of
moderately capable artists who have by some
means obtained a footing find it exceedingly
difficult to earn a bare subsistence. The clever
girl with talent must be prepared to throw her
whole heart and soul into study for her pro-
fession. Tliis study must necessarily begin very
early ; the fingers of the pianist must have
acquired suppleness from childhood onwards.
The earlier a violinist acquires the rudiments of
her art the more skilled musician will she make.
A child should be made to practise her piano
and her violin at least one hour every day. As
she gets older two hours should be given to
practice, and when she is completing her studies,
at least four hours' practice daily should be
taken. This is necessary in order to obtain
good technique. The singer, on the other hand,
must not strain her voico in childhood, but her
training, when it does begin, must be pains-
taking and thorough. No girl, however clever,
should attempt to earn a living by music alone,
unless she has some small income which will
help her to tide over the time when she is
struggling to make a position for herself. For
the pianist and the instrumentalist especially
are these difficulties in the way. There must
be something distinctive about the perform-
ance, something characteristic about the per-
sonality of an unknown artist for her to be able
to attract public notice. Without this she may
spend large sums of money in giving concerts
without avail. By the influence of her concert
agent perhaps she may be successful in procur-
ing one or two minor engagements, but of what
avail will these be as a means of livelihood -
she will discover too late that she would have
done better to devote the time spent on music
to training for a more money -making career.
Even the girl with talents above the average
shoiild not rely upon making a sufficient
income as a performer at first ; she should in
all cases combine her work with that of teaching
until she has become sufficiently well known
to command a large number of regular engage-
ments. The vocalist has perhaps more scope
than the instrumentalist in many directions.
In addition to the concert platform there are
openings in comic opera and musical comedy
for the well-trained singer, and if her voice
be above the average then in grand opera she
may find her goal. For the last, needless to
say, she must have a voice of great power and
wide compass, and she must undergo a train-
ing which will be necessarily long and ex-
pensive, usually finishing with a term of study
abroad. She will require to have a good know-
ledge of French, Italian, and German, for she
may bo called upon to sing in opera in any of
these languages. When her training is complete
she will often require to have years of experience
in both singing and acting before she succeeds
in attracting any measure of notice.
In regard to comic opera there is loss difficulty,
although talent for acting, a good appearance,
and charm of personality are necessary. The
great difficulty in this branch of the profession
is to get a fair start. If a girl begins through
the medium of the chorus, and has all the
qualities mentioned, she will rise to a higher
position in time, but the chances are that years
will elapse before she obtains recognition, and
in the meantime her voico will probably have
deteriorated in quality by reason of the severe
ARTS AND CRAFTS
683
strain to which it has been subjected by chorus
work.
For the girl who is not ambitious and is con-
tent with earning a moderate income, there are
many minor branches of the profession in which
opportunities are to be had. She may form a
connection for " At Home " engagements,
dinner concerts at hotels and restaurants, or
she may join one of the ladies' orchestras which
play at " At Homes," tea-rooms, restaurants,
and also at bazaars and other similar functions.
In good and well-established orchestras fair
salaries are to be had, but in many cases the
work is intermittent.
The Accompanist. - One of the most promising
fields for the pianist of average talents is that
of the accompanist, but curiously enough it is
the one branch of the musical profession that
few are anxious to enter. The accompanist has
no scope for individual display ; her perform-
ance must be subservient to that of the singer -
and yet it is an art to be a good accompanist,
an art in which very few excel. The accompanist
must have had a good musical training, for she
must be able to read at sight, and even to
transpose if needs be. She must be able to
adapt herself to the methods of each different
singer, always keeping time with, and slurring
over any mistakes made by the vocalist. It is
not such an easy matter as one would imagine for
an accompanist to accompany singers whom she
has never seen before, and of whose methods
she is entirely igncvant, but this she is often
called upon to do. When once an accompanist
has proved her capabilities, engagements are
not slow to follow. Singers remember the names
of those who accompany well - ^very often they
will always retain the services of one accom-
panist whose value they have proved. It is
better for a beginner who has no friends or
influence in the concert world to register her
name at a good concert agent as soon as she
is ready to accept engagements. A small per-
centage will be deducted from her fees for
commission in this way, but this is well worth
while if good engagements result. Fees paid to
accompanists at concerts average from one to
two guineas for the evening.
Teachers of Music. - This presents the most
favoiu'able means to the well-trained musician
of earning a regular income. A thorough train-
ing concluding with success at examinations for
the A.R.C.M. or the L.R.A.M. or some other re-
cognised quaHfication is necessary. There are
good posts in schools for teachers of piano, viohn,
and singing. Higher posts are to be had in
schools and colleges of music. Good connec-
tions as visiting teachers may also be formed.
Salaries in schools vary to a great extent, but
an advanced music mistress may earn as much
as £120 a year from one sc'iool ulone, and aug-
ment her income considerably by private lessons.
F->r the higher posts as teachers in colleges and
Schools of Music the highest musical honours
and also a certain amount of experience are
necessary. For teacliing, an A.R.A.M. or an
A.R.C.M. degree, or a degree of music awarded
by one of the universities will be found most
useful. A teacher's diploma is very desirable
now that such a high standard of efficiency in
teaching is exacted.
There is a great opening for teachers of singing
under the tonic sol-fa system in the schools
under local authorities. Candidates for posts of
the kind should prepare for the School Teacher's
Certificate of the Tonic Sol-fa CoUege. The
London County Council also recognises the tonic
sol-fa music certificate as a quaUfication for
teachers of singing and music in secondary
schools and pupil teacher centres. Salaries
in some cases amount to £200 a year. Full
information in regard to training may be ob-
tained from the Secretary, Tonic Sol-fa CoUege,
Finsbury Square, London, E.C.
Training. - ^A great deal of the expense of
training may be saved by gaining one of the many
scholarships which are awarded in the musical
profession by the various music academies and
colleges. The best centres for training are un-
doubtedly in London and other large towns.
In aU of these are special hostels where music
students can get board and lodging at moderate
fees. The following are the chief institutions
where training may be obtained : -
TheRoyal Academy of Music,Tenterden Street,
London. Entrance fee, £5, 5s. - £1, Is. payable
for entrance examination and £4, 4s. on becoming
a pupil. There is a very full course of study
wliich must extend over three terms, including
instruction in theory, harmony, and counter-
point. Fees for ordinary course are £11, lis.
per term ; for special studies, in accordance with
the subjects taken. Examinations are also
held twice a year for music students trained
independently of the Academy, and successful
candidates are entitled to use the initials L.R.A.M.
Successful students trained at the college are
entitled to the distinction A.R.A.M., and those
who distinguish themselves after quitting the
institution may be elected by the Directors
Fellows of the Royal Academy of Music and are
entitled to use the letters F.R.A.M.
There are sixty scholarships in connection with
the Academy, full particulars of which niay be
obtained upon application to the lady super-
intendent. They are usually tenable for three
years, and pro^^de for free instruction during
that period.
At the Royal College of Music, South Ken-
sington, London, W., at least a year's course
must be taken. The entrance foe for examina-
tion is £2, 2s., and fees for ordinary course are
£12, 123. a term. Tliere is also a department for
students under sixteen at which the fees are
exactly halved. A nmnber of scholarships are
awarded, in connection with some of wlxich, in
684
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
addition to free musicsal education, special grants
towards maintenance are made. Many prizes,
consisting of musical instruments or medals,
are given annually. A student desiring to
join the College should write for an appHcation
form, and when this Has been filled up, the
entrance fee and one term's fees should be paid.
Among the subjects taught are the piano, solo
singing, viola, cello, double hass, organ, harp,
wind instruments, theory, languages, elocu-
tion, &c. One principal and one secondary
subject is generally chosen, and an entrance
examination is held in order to ascertain the
degree of proficiency in each subject. A second
principal subject may be taken by paying an
extra fee. Such subjects as dancing, deport-
ment, and dramatic action are extras. Fre-
quent lectures are given, fully illustrated by
voices or instriunents. In order to be able to
write the letters A.R.C.M. after her name, a
student must, on the completion of her training,
pass a final examination, the fee for which is
£5, 5s.
Alexandra House, Kensington Gore, is a well-
known place of residence for lady students at
the college. The number of music students re-
ceived, however, must not exceed fifty. Each
student has her own bedroom and shares a
sitting-room with another student, and has also
the use of the drawing-room, library, and
concert-room. The terms for board are sixty
guineas a year, with £1 extra per term for wash-
ing. Full particulars may be obtained upon
application to the college.
Associated Board of the Royal Academy
and Royal College of Music. - Local Centre
Examinations and School Examinations in
music are held by the Associated Board of the
Royal Academy and Royal College of Music.
These examinations, which include both theo-
retical and practical music, are held through-
out the United Kingdom and in the Colonies.
The subjects include primary theory, rudiments
of music, harmony and grammar of music,
counterpoint, pianoforte, organ, vioUn, viola,
cello, double beiss, harp, wind instruments and
singing.
Six exhibitions are offered by the Board
tenable for three years at the Royal Academy
or the Royal College of Music.
At the Guildhall School of Music, Victoria
Embankment, London, a very good training
may be had in every branch of music. The
entrance and deposit fees are each Ss. There
is a term fee of 2s. 6d., and fees for singing and
music range from £1, lis. Gd. to £0, 6s. a term.
There are a number of scholarships in connec-
tion with the school, and examinations are held
for the Associateship of the school and for
teachers' certificates.
Special teachers' diplomas are granted by the
London College of Music, Great Marlborough
Street, W., Trinity College, London, and the
Royal Manchester College of Music. There are
a number of other colleges and schools of music
throughout the country where fees are moderate
and students are prepared for the L.R.A.M. of
the Royal Academy. This degree is most use-
ful for teachers, and the would-be teacher should
strive to prepare for it or for one of the special
teachers' diplomas awarded by other colleges.
Examinations are held by Trinity College at a
number of local centres, for wliich any student
may enter. Full particulars of these may be
obtained upon application to the Secretary,
Trinity College of Music, Mandeville Place,
Manchester Square, London, W. Women can
also take the degree of Bachelor of Music and
Doctor of Music at the Universities of London,
Edinburgh, Manchester, D'orham, Dubhn, and
Wales. They are not allowed to take the
Oxford and Cambridge degrees. They can
enter for the examinations, however, and suc-
cessful candidates receive certificates.
THE STAGE
Most girls are apt to be "stage struck" at
some period of their lives ; that is to say, they
develop a desire to go upon the stage, and no
matter how little histrionic capability they may
have, their determination to enter the dramatic
profession cannot be shaken. Not all the advice
of their parents or friends can turn them from
their purpose, with the result that valuable time,
which might have been spent to advantage in
the pursuit of some other calling, is irretrievably
wasted, until by dint of rebuffs and disappoint-
ments the crestfallen aspirant is brought to
realise that it is only talent supplemented by
thorough training and hard work that can open
the doors of the dramatic profession to any new-
comer. The best training for the stage is that
of actual experience : - most of our noted actors
and actresses have been acting almost since
childhood ; they have had to rough it in " fit
up " companies at small provincial towns - often
they have found themselves stranded far away
from homo, the finances of the management
having suddenly collapsed. Many and various
are the stories related of heirdships endured and
\acissitudes encountered - stories which should be
enough to deter any budding aspirant after stage
fame who has an idea that the dramatic pro-
fession is syTionymous with a life of ease and
comfort.
Where dramatic talent is present, however,
the stage should be its natural outlet. It is
very seldom that a person who has the decided
dramatic temperament will make a success in
any other calling. But she must not have the
idea that she has merely to step forward and
grasp without any effort the laurels which others
often much more talented than she is have
worked so hard to attain. She must take into
account also the present overcrowded state of
ARTS AND CRAFTS
685
the profession, and remember that as far as
newcomers are concerned preference is nearly
always accorded to the young members of old
theatrical famiUes who have Uved in a stage
atmosphere almost since birth, who have gone
through a thorough course of trairang under their
parents' giiidance, and who, in addition,can boast
of names which their parents have made famous.
There are therefore many disappointments
which the young beginner will have to face ;
but there is an old saying that " talent will out,"
and if she is really gifted, and is prepared for
years of hard work, there is no doubt that one
day, sooner or later, her chance will come.
Training. - A thorough training is absolutely
necessary. The earlier tliis training begins the
better, for the sooner will the novice's dramatic
apprenticeship be served. A girl should begin
training before her twenty-first year if possible.
Carriage and deportment must necessarily take
an important part in an actress's education. A
beginner will find it difficult even to walk grace-
fully across the stage - how much more so then
if her acting has to include a fall or a faint. We
all admire the suppleness and litheness of a
Bernhardt, for instance, but suppleness of the
kind must be acquired early, before the bones
are set, otherwise this part of the training will
be exceedingly difficult to other than a natvirally
graceful girl with a supple figure. Sixteen is a
very good age to begin training. If before this
a girl has made some preliminary study of elo-
cution and dancing so much the better.
There are several good Iramatic schools over
the country at which thorough training may be
had. In some cases pupils are given actual
stage experience in the course of their training.
This is the case with pupils of IVIr. E. F. Benson,
whose provincial Shakespearian companies are
well known. They are rehearsed with the
professionals by Mr. Benson and are allowed to
appear in stage crowds, choruses, &c., at the
different theatres visited. This gives them valu-
able practice in stage deportment.
There are other advantages which may be
derived from training at a thoroughly good school.
Introductions to managers may be obtained, and
on many occasions engagements are procured
which in other circimistances would be very
difficult to obtain.
The chief dramatic schools are : -
The Academy of Dramatic Art, 62 Gower
Street, London, W.C.
This school was founded by Sir Herbert
Beerbohm Tree in 1904, and many of the students
there have found their way into this well-known
actor-manager's companies, thus embarking upon
their theatrical careers under the most favourable
auspices. Each student is required to pass an
entrance examination, which usually consists
of a short recitation which thf student may
choose for herself. The fee for this examination
is £1, Is. Eighteen months represents the
average course necessary, but this must neces-
sarily depend upon individual capabilities, some
students taking longer than others to complete
their training. The year is divided into three
terms, and the fees for tuition are £12, I2s. per
term. Instruction is given in every branch of
stage work, including voice production, elocution,
deportment and dancing, fencing and acting in
general.
The Ben Greet Academy of Acting, 3 Bedford
Street, is another successful theatrical school.
There is no entrance examination necessary.
Fees for full com-se of forty-eight lessons,
£10, 10s. to £15, 15s.
At the Neville Dramatic Studio, 624 Oxford
Street, Marble Arch, six private lessons of ono
hour each are given for £4, 4s.
The young girl who has completed a course
of training at one of the recognised theatrical
schools, and who has succeeded in winning the
approbation of her tutors, must not make the
great mistake of tliinking that she will at once
step into a big part in a production at one of the
London theatres. She must recognise that with
the completion of her studies her apprentice-
ship is only just beginning. Years of hard work
in the pro\'inces may be before her before she
finally reaches that Mecca of every young actress,
the London stage. There are one or two excep-
tions to this ri'le, but these exceptions can only
be ascribed to chance which favours the few at
the expense of the many. The young stage
aspirant must therefore be prepared for a great
deal of h£ird and plodding work, and for many
heart-breaking disappointments and disillusions
before her turn comes ; but tliis period of hard
work will give her that experience which is
necessary before everything else - if she is to
make a success of the career of her choice.
A small income independent of her earnings is
almost a necessity for the girl who wishes to
enter the dramatic profession. Engagements at
first are difficult to procure ; very often she will
only be worldng four or five months out of the
twelve, and how can she live during the other
months if she has not a Uttle money of her
own to fall back upon. It may, indeed, be said
that lack of means has been responsible for half
the failures of girls who seemed to have had most
promising stage careers before them at the out-
set. On the other hand, I do not wish to suggest
that girls with comfortable incomes, who have
no need whatever to earn their U%nng, should go
upon the stage. Such a course of action is
manifestly unfair to those other women to whom
the dramatic profession represents their solo
means of livehhood. Nevertheless, a girl should
tliink twice before she embarks upon a career
wliich has probably more " ups and downs "
than any other calling, unless she has some small
sum put by which will help to tide her over those
months of the year during which she is out of
an engagement. Without this she will find
686
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
many diflficultics in her way. As in any other
profession, appearances count for a great deed,
and the chances of the girl who is forced to go
about shabbily dressed are materially lessened
when it comes to the question of seeking an
engagement. There is also the danger of her
health gi^■ing way if life resolves itself into a
mere hand-to-mouth struggle for existence, and
with the loss of health she must needs say good-
bye to her last chance of success, for in the pursuit
of this profession, even more than in that of
any other, good health and a soimd constitu-
tion ase indispensable if any headway is to
bo made.
ART
It is only those who are endowed with the rare
and wonderful genius of the artist who can ever
hope to make a li\^ng by painting pictures - and
even genius has at times to forsake the higher
walks of art for by-ways that are more remuner-
ative. Successful artists have devoted their
lives to their work, and often success has only
come to them after years of endeavour to obtain
just that touch of originality which serves to
raise them above their fellows.
There are many of the lesser branches of art,
however, at which a clever and talented girl can
earn a very good living if she possesses the
essential qualities of perseverance and keen
aptitude for catering to the taste of the pubUc.
In poster and advertisement designing, cata-
logue illustrating and fashion-drawing there are
many prospects for the girl who has had a
thorough training and can use her pencil with
skill.
Training. - There are a number of schools and
institutions at which a good training may be
had, and at which all branches of painting and
colouring should bo studied before specialising
for any particular art career. The following
are some of the principal art schools : -
The Royal Academy Schools, Burlington
House ; the Royal College of Art, South Ken-
sington, \V. ; the Slade School of Drawing,
Painting and Sculpture ; The Byam Shaw and
Vicat CJole School of Art; University College,
Gower Street, S.W. ; The School of Art, Edin-
burgh.
Royal Academy Schools. - Tuition is free, but
before admission students must submit certain
specified works as a test of their ability. Such
specimens, however, need not be submitted by
those who can show certificates of proficiency
from the Royal College of Art and certain other
institutions. Successful candidates are ad-
mitted for threo years.
Royal College of Art (see p. 688).
The Byam Shaw and Vicat Cole School of
Art, Camden Street, Campden Hill, Kensington.
The purpose of the school is to provide a thorough
art training for students of both sexes. The
building has been expressly erected as an art
schooL It contains three studios about thirty
two feet square. It is Ut by electricity, wanm( I
by hot-water radiators, and well ventilatnl
The school is situated on the top of Campden
Hill - five minutes' walk from Netting Hill Gate
Stations (Metropolitan Railway and Centrn!
London Tube).
Work is carried on for forty-four weeks in
the year, the school only being closed for a
week at Cliristmas and Easter and six weeks
in the svunmer. Students are not bound by
fixed terms, but may enter the school at any
time. Students who join before the summer
holidays continue their term when the school
re-opens. The work is strictly progressive.
Students must pass in antique drawing and
elementary painting before attending the ad-
vanced classes. New students submit work
to qualify for the Life class. Beginners as
well as advanced students are invited to join.
Students are prepared for the Royal Academy
Schools.
The working day is from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
with intervals for lunch and tea. The schools
close at 4 p.m. on Saturdays. Supplementary
classes are held in the evening for students who
are unable to join in the day-time. No entrance
fee is charged. Students must provide their
own easels. These and other materials can
be purchased in the school at the usual discount
prices. A Scholarship (value £23) is offered
yearly for competition. The school is always
under the supervision of one or both the
principals. During the absence of either of
them liis place is taken by one oi the
augmentary staff. The curator attends daily
during working hours. Students must conform
to the rules of the school and to the ruling of
the curator, who is responsible for their obser-
vance.
Fees. - By the year (10 a.m. to 6 p.m., ten
months' tuition), from date of joining to the
same date in the following year . . £19 19 0
Six months (10 a.m. to 6 p.m.> 14 14 0
Three months " " 8 8 >)
One month " " 4 4 0
Three months " " (3
days per week) .... 550
Sketch class (4. 30 to 6 p.m.) (free
to day students) 2 months 3 3 0
These fees are reduced by 20 per cent, for
the sons and daughters of professional artists
and students engaged in teaching. All fees
are payable in advance. No fees will be re-
turned. Time lost through illness (only), if
exceeding one week and certified by a doctor,
may lie made up.
The Heatherley School of Art, Newman
Street, is one of the oldest art schools in
London. The course is suitable for beginners
as well as for more axlvanced pupils, and pupils
are encouraged to work from the living model.
Special instruction is given to those students
ARTS AND CRAFTS
687
who intend to become illustrators. There are
both day and evening classes, and a ticket ad-
mitting to all the classes costs 25 gviineas, or
for the day classes only, 3 guineas per month.
Special classes can also be taken, and private
lessons are given. Fuller particulars can be
obtained by writing to Mx. Massey, the principal
of the school.
After their general training has been completed,
people of limited means will find abundant faci-
lities for special training by attending evening
classes at one of the technical schools and schools
of handicrafts under local authorities.
If the training can be completed by spending
a year or two in a Paris studio, it will be very
much to the advantage of the art student.
Instruction in Paris does not cost much, and
by studying economy in Uving, £100 a year can
be made to cover expenses, while with an
extra £50 this hfe can be quite comfortable.
All information regarding art schools and
studios may be obtained by applying to the
Secretary of the Franco-English Guild, 6 Rue
de la Sorbonne, while board on very reasonable
terms can be had at one of the houses run in
connection with the Y.W.C.A., or several
students may club together and take a small
appartement, and by doing their catering the
cost of living may be still further reduced.
As a rule, three lessons a day wiU be given in
the large studios, one from 8 a.m. to midday,
a second from 1 p.m. until 5 p.m., and a tliird
in the evening, but it h not usual to attend more
than one or two of these. The pupils work in
class under the direction of a professor. Private
lessons can also be obtained from many of the
well-known Paris artists, but, as a rule, a student
prefers the life of the larger studios where there
is more opportunity for criticism.
Poster and Advertisement Designing. - ^For the
girl with original ideas and a keen eye for effects
there are many opportunities in this direction.
It has been abundantly proved that talent
utilised in commerce brings in the best returns,
and the successful poster and advertisement
designer can count upon making a very fair
income. The woman who makes her name in
this direction and becomes known for her skilful
treatment of advertising ideas c.i,n always com-
mand a good price for her work. Some instinct
for advertising, for bringing out the most striking
points of a proposition is necessary. In poster
designing especially a girl must strive to strike
out upon oiiginal lines in addition to executing
work of artistic merit.
Designing advertisements for reproduction in
papers and magazines, designing show-cards
and covers and illustrations for trade catalogues
are all remunerative branches of the designer's
art. Striking ideas which will serve to advertise
their wares are alwuys welcomed by business
firms who are willing to pay well for really good
work,
The woman who wishes to become a successful
designer must have had a thorough training at
a good art school. This should take at least
four years and should be supplemented by a
study of the business side of the question, in-
cluding the various methods of reproduction and
the different costs entailed. A short course at
a good college of advertising will also be most
useful. Experience in the business side of art
is best obtained by either paying a premium for
the opportunity of learning the work with a
firm of illustrators and designers, or a position
may often be obtained in a studio of the kind at
a small commencing salary. Here the student
will get experience in all kinds of black and
white work, line-drawings and wash-drawings,
also colour work, and will soon be initiated into
the mysteries of the technical and business part
of her calling. It may happen also that she wiU
find her opportunity in the studio at which she
takes this part of her training, for designers eire
always willing to keep willing and capable artists
who have made themselves really useful to the
firm.
At the New Art School, 3 Logan Place, Earl's
Court Road, London, S.W., especially good
training is given in poster designing and work
for the press generally. The student has also
the advantage of tuition under Mr. John Hassall,
the most succesriul poster artist of the day.
Book and Magazine Illustration.- Black and
white work and colour work for book and
magazine illustration is also very profitable
once an artist has estabUshed a good con-
nection. To do this she must have the capa-
bilities and push of a good business woman.
She should keep a selection of drawings in her
best style to submit to the various editors of
magazines and periodicals ; she will also have
to have something of the instinct of a joiu-naUst
to make this branch of her calhng a success.
She will have to become famiUar with the style
of illustration adopted by individual publica-
tions and adapt her works to suit this style.
Clever suggestions are always welcomed by
editors, and she must lose no opportunity of
making these. Very often she will bo given
an article or a story to illustrate. Generally
the various passages to be illustrated will bo
pointed out to her. She may be given an idea
of what is required, or she may be asked to do
the work according to her own ideas. In regard
to black and wliito work for magazines and
papers, promptitude in delivering the drawings
is essential; and very often the artist v"-ill
have very little time in which to put her ideas
into form. This is a feature of the work
which must not be lost sight of. Tlio girl who
is quick at her work and can keep her promise
in regard to time of delivery will make much
more headway than the girl wlio, however
talented, cannot get a drawing ready to time or
who never fulfils her promise in this respect.
688
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Lady artists in colour illustration are em-
ployed a great deal by pubUslung firms who
make a speciality of colour work.
Fashion Drawing. - The clever ftisluon artist,
once she obtains a footing, has every prospect of
success before her. There is scarcely a day or
an evening newspaper nowadays which has not
its fashion page, wliilst ladies' fashion papers vie
with each other in being up to date in their
dress designs. It is true that most papers have
their own fashion artists upon their staffs, but
there is always room for good ideas and good
work. Besides, vacancies will occur, and then
who is more likely to step into them than the
girl or woman who has made her work known
and who is ever watchful for her opportunity.
The fashion artist should first of all be au fait
with the fasliions and their various possibilities.
She should be essentially a woman with ideas
in regard to dress. She should make herself
acquainted with the personaUties of leaders of
fashion and take every opportunity of sketching
the toilettes of leaders of society upon interesting
social functions. She should regularly submit
work to the fashion editress of the principal
ladies' journals and also to those of the ladies'
pages of daily or weekly papers. If she can
begin by becoming assistant to a fashion artist,
her path will be made all the easier for her.
A fasliion artist may either obtain work as a
free lance with various papers, or she may obtain
a post on the staff of a paper. In the latter case
she will be given a salary. A capable and ex-
perienced artist employed by a paper of standing
will often earn as much as from £300 to £500 a
year, and a really capable artist may calculate
upon earning £250 a year when she first obtains
a salaried post, for none but efficient workers are
employed on first-class pubhcations, and these
always can obtain their price.
The free-lance must necessajily be paid by
piece-work, and prices obtainable average from
33. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per single figure. When an
artist is given a number of drawings to do at
once, as, for instance, several small illustrations
for a fashion book, she would be asked to do
them at an inclusive charge, which would work
out at a lower sum per figiire. Tlio artist
who is employed on the staff of a paper has as
strenuous a life as a journalist in every sense of
the word. She is, in fact, a journalist of the pencil.
Her working days are long - often she has to go
f8ir afield for the subjects of her sketches, and
very often the time allowed in which to work
them out for press is all too short. But there
are many compensations ; the work, besides being
remunerative, is full of fascination and interest.
Teaching. - There are many openings for
teachers of art in art schools and technical in-
stitutions under local authorities, also in private
schools for those who have had a thorough art
training. Teachers must obtain the art teacher's
certificate of the Board of Education. Full
training may be had at the Royal College of
Art, South Kensington, London, wliich was
first established for the training of art masters
and mistresses as a college in which recognised
art students could take their training, and it
can be entered free by means of scholarships.
Valuable training scholarships are offered gi\nng
free tuition and a maintenance grant from
12s. 6d. to 43s. 6d. a week, and also a number
of free studentships. The fees charged to the
general public range from 5s. to £5 a term,
according to the course taken. A prospectus
of the college may be obtained post free 4d. ; in
this full information in regard to scholarsliips,
conditions of admission, &c., will be found.
The art teacher's certificate is almost a neces-
sity to those who wish to teach in any of the
municipal schools or classes, or in the best
secondary schools which are under the Board of
Education, but those who have received their
art instruction in any of the famous schools of
the country would have many posts open to
them.
MINOR ARTS AND CRAFTS
Photography. - Photography affords escellcnt
opportunities for the woman with artistic tastes
combined with good business capacity and the
requisite amount of capital with which to start
a business of her own. The minor posts in
photography, such as retouching, &c., are very
poorly paid, and a woman is ill-advised to train
with only a post of this kind in view. Tlie best
salaries are paid to those who are termed
receptionists. Their duties are to be in the
studio, to receive cUents, make appointments,
and to keep the books. They may also be
required to do some retouching, photograph
tinting, &c. A receptionist will get a salary of
from £1, 10s. to £2, 10s. a week, whilst the salary
of a retoucher seldom averages more than from
10s. to 153. weekly.
Training. - A professional course of photo-
graphy may be taken at the Polytechnic, Regent
Street, London, for £52, 10s. The course com-
prises the scientific as well as the operative part
of photography. Another way of traim'ng is to
become a paying student in a high -class studio.
Opportunities of practice are of first importance,
and if the student can fit up a studio in her own
homo, practising her art with her friends as
sitters, this will give her a great experience of
the practical part of the work as well as of its
artistic side.
Artistic photography should be the aim <>t
every photographer who sets up in the business
for herself. She should aim at making studirs
of her pictures. Women photographers, a.s a
rule, are experts in tlie art of pose, and all women
who have followed this profession with ai;iy
success are renowned for their artistic pho i,o-
graphs.
ARTS AND GRAFTS
689
The principal of one of the most fashionable
studios in London is a lady who has made her
name for artistic work. Her clientele consists
mainly of the upper classes and her income is
a large one. It is a good plan to specialise in
children's photography where possible, for this is
a very paying branch of the profession.
Little capital is necessary to start a studio in
a coimtry district. In London and other large
towns from £200 to £300 woidd be required, and
in order to set up in a fashionable district any
sum of from £500 to £1000 would be necessary.
The girl who wishes to carry on photography
as a home occupation for profit may try her
hand at writing articles for magazines and
periodicals and illustrating them with her photo-
graphs.
Dancing Mistress. - This is a career well suited
to girls of refinement who are also graceful in
their movements and lithe and supple of figure.
The dancing mistress must begin her training
very early if she is to attain not only grace of
movement and proficiency in her art, but also
efficiency in teaching. The best method of
training is to serve an apprenticeship of at least
two years in a first-class dancing academy.
For this a premium of £50 and upwards will
have to be paid ; even more in some of the most
select schools of dancing. In this time every
branch of ball-room dancing and the chief
fancy dances will be learnt, also Swedish or
other simple physical exercises. After the ap-
prenticeship has expired it is better to remain
on with the same dancing teacher as assistant
in order to gain experience. The assistant will
receive a small salary of 10s. a week at first,
but this will rise in proportion as her usefulness
increases, and at the end of the first year, if her
services are retained, she will probably receive
a salary of from £1, 10s. to £2 a week. Very
often, however, the dancing mistress has to
take an enforced holiday during the summer, as
few classes are held in this season, and this is
a point to be remembered.
Given a thorough training and good experi-
ence as assistant, a woman can quite easily
open a class of her own. She might aim first
at getting a good appointment as visiting
dancing mistress in a girls' school, and gradually
extend her connection until she is able to hire
a hall in which to hold her classes.
HANDICRAFTS FOR HOME WORKERS
There are a number of arts and crafts in
which the woman worker can engage at home,
and by the pm-suit of which she can add
materially to her income. Needless to say, a
thorough training in each particular handicraft
is necessary before it can be utiUsed for monetary
consideration.
Metal Work and Enamelling. - This proves a
most fascinating occupation for the woman who
has artistic perception and skill of design-
Beautiful work can be executed in the produc-
tion of brooches, chains, clasps, and other
jewellery, ornamental buttons, hair -combs, also
fire-screens, frames, lamps, and all other articles
to which this art may be appHed. The girl
who wishes to take up the study of metal work
and enamelling with a view to profit should
have some idea of drawing and design, and also
good business capacity, for she will have to
estimate the costs of materials and put upon
her work a sufficient price for it to yield a profit.
The home worker should also remember that
the smaller articles, such as jewellery, hair-
combs, &c., are most often easier to sell than
the larger ones.
The metal and enamel worker must neces-
sarily have an outfit of the tools and an enamel-
ling stove. The latter cannot be had under £5,
but this is the most expensive item. The
enamels cost about 4d. per ounce ; a brush and
a pestle and mortar are also necessary. Extra
tools will be required for chsising work. A girl
should therefore have a httle money not only
for the purchase of the outfit, but for materials
such as gold, silver, &c.
Training. - Lessons in metal work and enamel-
ling may be had at most of the art schools and
polytechnics. Excellent training may be had
at Alexander Fisher's Studios, 17 Warwick
Gardens, Konsin_gton, London. At the Bir-
mingham School of Art a particularly good
training is given. At the art schools and poly-
technics the training is exceptionally cheap,
amounting to only a few shillings a session, but
then only one or two lessons per week are given.
Another way of training is to become appren-
ticed to a metal worker for six months to a
year. For tliis premiums vary, some firms de-
manding more than others. Tliis second method
of training, though more expensive, is certainly
more effective, as the student in this way gains
practical experience of every branch of the
work, and a keen insight into costs, proper
scales of prices, &c., &c. An expert designer
will be able to complete her training in the
course of a few lessons.
Prospects. - When the training is ended the
best way to attract general notice to one's work
is to send exliibits to the cxliibitions organised
by the various arts and crafts societies. These
exhibitions are held in almost every large town.
In London the Arts and Crafts Exhibition
Society holds a yearly exhibition of all handi-
crafts. Exhibits can also be sent to the British
Industrial League and United Gentlewomen's
Handicraft and Homo Industrial Exhibition
(address - Tlie Hon. Secretary, 42 Vardens Road,
London, S.W.).
Apart from home work posts may be had
as designers and workers with firms of metal
workers, a good designer earning from £75 to
£80 a year. Teachers' posts in county council
"2 2
690
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
art schools are also to bo had by those with
exceptional qualifications.
Leather Work and Wood Carving can also
be turned into a profitable home occupation if
the worker adopts the methods detailed above
to make her work known. Both are taught
at most art schools and polytechnics. At the
School of Art Wood Carxdng, Thurloe Place,
South Kensington, a good training in wood
caa-ving may be hsui at a cost of £5 a quarter.
The time training will take must necessarily
depend upon the aptitude of the pupil ; the
fuU course extends over three years. A month's
training will cost £2 and a year's training £14,
reduction being made for each successive year
of training.
Bookbinding. - Bookbinding is a most inter-
esting occupation for women, and can prove
most remunerative to the woman with a good
connection if she can open her own workshop.
Apart from this there are not many prospects
in regard to paid positions in workshops, for
the generaUty of these are filled by men,
and in any case the weekly remuneration is
small.
The bookbinder, to do really tasteful and
artistic work, should have a knowledge of design.
The training, which is an expensive one, costing
usually about £70, takes one year, and after
this it requires constant practice to become
really proficient in the art. The necessary train-
ing can be obtained at the estabhshment of Miss
Woolrich, 5 Bloomsbury Square, W.C. Lessons
in bookbinding may also be taken at London
County Council Central School of Arts and
Crafts, Southampton Row, W.C. On the
whole, as a career bookbinding does not offer
many opportunities for women. The woman,
however, who has managed to get a good con-
nection together by means of private work,
and who has a fair amount of capital, backed up
by skill and business ability, should be able to
start a business of her own with fair prospects
of success.
Lace-making, Spinning, and Weaving. - There
has lately been a revival of the ancient arts of
lace-making, spinning and weaving, and some
prospects in this direction have been opened
out to educated women as well as to the poorer
classes. Posts as teachers in county council
classes, especially in those villages where the
lace industry haa been revived to any great
extent, may be obtained by the efficient worker.
Fine laco-mending and repairing may help to
add to her income to a certain extent. The
lace worker must be able to turn out work of
the first quaUty and have a certain gift for
design. In regard to spinning and weaving it
is anticipated that these arts wiU soon be de-
veloped as a field of employment. Full par-
ticulars in regard to training may be had from
the British and Irish Weaving and Spinning
and Lace School, 28 Davies Street, Berkeley
Square, London, W.
Needlework. - In needlework itself as a pro-
fession there are not many prospects, although
good needlewomen may dispose of their work
by entrusting it to a society organised for the
sale of the work of gentlewomen. Women who
are anxious to dispose of their work should
communicate with the " Gentlewomen's Work
Society," which has been specially founded to
help gentlewomen in reduced circumstances who
are anxious to add to their incomes by the aid
of the needle. This society receives orders for
all kinds of fine needlework, including trousseaux
and layettes, also for fancy work of all descrip-
tions, lace mending, cleaning, &c. Full parti-
culars may be had upon application to the secre-
tary, 114 Church Road, Norwood, London, E.
The Girls' Friendly Society, Victoria Street,
London, S.W., also undertakes to a&sist in the
sale of needlework by members. In Edinbvugh
the Society for the Sale of Gentlewomen's Work
and the Princess Helena Society have been
founded with the same object, and also the
Work Depot for Irish Distressed Ladies,
20 Dawson Street, Dublin. In fact, in almost
every large town there are societies with this
laudable end in view. Women with a httle
capital of their own cannot do better than start
a fine needlework shop where every kirnl of
work is undertaken and where work materials,
&c., are sold. They should select a suitable
neighboiu-hood, and church work might well
be made a speciality.
There are schools of plain needlework, fancy
work, and embroidery all over the country, at
which the work can bo learned. At the Royal
School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, les-
sons in all kinds of embroidery and fancy work
may bo taken. For terms apply to the secretary.
SOCIAL AND PHILANTHROPIC WORK
This article deals with a phase of work for women which is at present little understood and even
less appreciated by a large number of women workers. The openings for social and philanthropic
workers are, however, steadily increasing, and the paid posts are becoming more and more numerous.
Tlais article gives details in regard to the various branches of social and philanthropic workp and the
prospects which they offer to educated women workers.
For the woman of leisure and means, as well
as for the woman who has to toil for her daily
bread, philanthropic work of all kinds should
have an absorbing interest. In the many
responsible unpaid posts the former may find
full scope for ameliorating the lot of those less
fortunate than themselves ; and the latter,
whilst engaged in the task of earning their
livelihood, are happy in the knowledge that they
are doing good and useful work by following
one of the noblest careers open to women.
A great fund of sympathy and understanding
of human nature aie necessary for the woman
who would take up pliiianthropic work with
success. She should be patient and intuitively
thoughtfvil for the feelings of others, and refine-
ment will not prove her least valuable asset.
Added to this, a regular course of training should
be undergone to fit her for that particular branch
of philanthropy which she wishes to take up.
Training. - Those who wish to be efficient
workers should take a course of training at one
of the recognised training institutions. This
course should extend over two years in regard
to the more important work. There are many
facilities for training nowadays, which some
years ago did not exist. At the following
institutions instruction in the various branches
of the work may be had : -
The London School of Sociology and Social
Economics, Denison House, Vauxhall Bridge
Road. Fees, twelve guineas the session ; the
complete cou'"se is two years, but shorter courses
may be taken.
The Women's University Settlement, 44 and
45 Nelson Square, Blackfriars Road, London,
S.E. Fees also twelve guineas per session.
The ordinary course lasts one year, and con-
stitutes a training in social work generally, but
students who wish to specialise in any particular
branch should remain a secc.id year. Resident
students pay £60 a year for board and lodging.
Lady Margaret Hall Settlement, Kennington
Road, Lambeth. Fees, resident students £48
a year.
Training may also be had at many of the other
settlements and at the London School of Econo-
mics, Clare Market, W.C. Girls may obtain
an insight into practical social work at various
branches of the Charitable Organisation Society.
The chief openings for women social workers
are as almoners in hospitals, settlement workers,
welfare managers, secretaries to philanthropic
societies, clubs, &c., rent collectors, relieving
officers. Poor Law inspectors (see p. 680), mana-
gers of milk depots, &c.
Hospital Aimoner. - Tliis is a comparatively
new career for women. A few years ago there
were no women almoners ; and, though their
number is not gi'eat at present, in all probability
it will be added to considerably in the future.
Posts as assistants to almoners may be had, in
wliich a very full knowledge of the work may be
gained, so that the assistant will in time be
qualified to take the post of almoner herself.
Tlie duties of an almoner are many and varied,
but they may be classified in one sentence-
the supervision of the out-patients' department
of a hospital. The work has two different
aspects, each of which is of the utmost import-
ance. First, it is the duty of the almoner to
check abuse of the charity of the hospital, seeing
that only those who are eligible receive free
treatment, and so preventing a waste of hospital
funds ; for often the benefits of the hospital are
extended free to those who can afford to paj' for
medical and nursing aid,a factwhich is manifestly
unfair to the hospital, the other patients, and
to medical practitioners. The almoners' duty
it is, therefore, to make inquiries in regard to
the circumstances of out-patients, to receive
recommendations from medical men in regard
to deserving cases, and to advise those applicants
who are in work to make provision for times
of illness by subscription to Provident Dispen-
saries. Then it is her duty to provide eligible
691
692
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
patients with all the help in her power, seeing
that they carry out religiously the treatment
prescribed, visiting their homes if necessary, or
getting into communication with the district
visitor of that particular locaUty, and gaining
her co-operation, asking her to report upon any
case in her district. She should also be m
toucli with the various charitable organisations,
enlisting their help where necessary on the
behalf of deserving cases.
It will bo seen, therefore, that the work of a
hospital almoner is no sinecure. Every moment
of her day is practically mapped out for her.
On the other hand, her work is full of variety and
interest, and her scope for doing good among
poor patients is practically unlimited.
Training. - The hospital almoner should first of
all have had a thorough general education. She
should have, in addition, a good knowledge of
book-keeping,managementof money andb\isiness
methods generally. She should also possess that
tact so necessary for dealing with the different
classes of people with whom she will have to
come in contact. The girl who wishes to become
an almoner should write to the secretary of the
Almoners' Training Committee, Denison House,
Vauxhall Bridge Road, for full information in
regard to training, prospects, &c. The princi-
pal part of the training is usually to be had
from hospital almoners, who train pupils m the
actual work of the out-patients' department,
usually free of charge. In all cases £5 covers
the cost of both theoretical and practical tram-
ing. Candidates for training must be under
thirty -five years of age.
Prospects.- The openings at present are few,
but there is every prospect that they will in-
crease. There is nothing to prevent every
hospital appointing an almoner in time, when
the usefulness of their work is fully appreciated.
Salaries vary according to circumstances ; they
are rarely less than £100 a year, whilst in many
cases much higher salaries are paid.
The Social Secretary.- The duties of a secretary
to a philanthropic institution or society represent
a very large sphere of social work. Most of the
social secretaryships are now paid posts, although
a great number of these secretarial posts are
filled by voluntary workers. The scope of the
work is wide and varied, as the many charitable
associations deal with so many different phases
of charitable work. Thus wo have societies
dealing with holidays for invalid workers and
children, others engaged in rescue works ; then
wo have the girls' and boys' clubs and societies
for improvingthe conditionsof the poorgenerally,
&c., &c. In each case the secretary must have
a thorough knowledge of her duties, have had a
good general education, supplemented by special
secretarial training as well as training in the
particular branch of social work which she takes
up. She must be a good organiser and have
plenty of self-reliance and power of initiative.
No mere routine worker, who can only do as
she is told and not be able to think or act for
herself, can successfully take up a post of the
kind.
An Honorary Secretary does a great deal of
work for no pay, and if capable, conscientious,
and enthusiastic, is one of the most useful
members of society. She is generally elected
to the office on the groimd of special fitness,
owing either to her interest in the particular
work of the association, her social influence
which can enlist subscribers and desirable
members, or her enthusiasm and persuasive
advocacy, a qualification which has much to
do with the prosperity of a public cause. The
combination of these three recommendations
makes an ideal secretary, whether honorary
or paid.
One of the first duties of the secretary will
be the drafting and issuing of appeals. Now
considerable skill is required for this. Then
she will have special duties in connection with
the organisation and arrangement of com-
mittee meetings and public meetings, seeing to
all the preliminaries in connection with each.
It will also be her duty to inform the local
press of the place, day, and hour of public
meetings, sending cards of invitation for the
occasion so that the proceedings can be weU
reported. She must be careful to show all
courtesy to the reporters who go to her for
information and give them all the assistance
they require.
The duties of a secretary to a philanthropic
institution or association cover a very wide
field of activity for the voluntary as well as
for the paid worker. It will be realised, there-
fore, that a thorough training and some amount
of experience of the work are necessary for
the women who wish to fill a position of the
kind with success.
Training. - Good training may be had at the
different schools of sociology and at a number
of the women's settlements. Excellent training
is also given by the Charity Organisation
Society. The cost of training varies at the
different institutions, and the intending social
worker should write to the settlement or society
of her choice asking full particulars as to terms,
varying courses of training, &c.
Prospects. - ^Vcry good secretarial posts may
be had with rich philanthropists who make good
works their hobby- such posts, as a rule, are the
most highly paid. Salaries to be had from
charitable institutions are not, as a rule, high,
though they vary to a great extent, £80 to £100
or £150 being the average ; whilst the salaries
paid by private philanthropists often reach the
sum of £250 a year. .
Welfare Work.- Tliis is a very important
branch of social work, and one which is of com-
parative recent growth. Many of our largest
and wealthiest of manufacturers have reahsed
SOCIAL AND PHILANTHROPIC WORK
693
the importance of improving the social and
general conditions of their employees, realising
that pleasant, happy, and conifortable sur-
roundings form the best incentive to good and
conscientious work on the part of the workers ;
and it has been abundantly proved that the
employer who takes an interest in the well-
being of his employees is paid many times over
by the willingness and appreciation displayed by
the workers, who are always grateful for any
kindness exercised on their behalf.
It is the duty of the welfare manager (or
social secretary, as she is often called) to see that
the best is done in promoting the welfare of the
employees in every conceivable way. She must
see that they work under the best conditions in
regard to sanitation and comfort, and that good
meals are provided at a nominal cost. Also that
these meals are taken in pleasant and cheerful
siuToundirigs, so that the dining-hour is one of
the most cheerful hours of the day for the
workers.
She organises entertainments, encouraging the
workers to form entertainment clubs and com-
mittees. It is her duty to receive and deal with
all complaints in regard to their food or surround-
ings. Another important part of her work is to
promote thrift amongst the employees. Some
large manufacturers have founded savings banks
for their employees, giving a fair rate of interest,
and the welfare manager encourages the girls
to save in this way. The health of the em-
ployees is also under her supervision. She sees
that a girl who is taken ill receives proper atten-
tion, and visits her home to make inquiries as to
her progress and to afford any little help that
miay be necessary. In most factories where
welfare workers are employed, there are play-
grounds and gardens for the employees. The
welfare manager must see to the organising of
outdoor sports. Usually she will organise a
games club, of which she will encourage all
employees to become members. Very often a
reading library will be under her direction, and
she will be required to organise instructive
lectures for educational purposes.
Tliere is practically no limit to the scope
afforded to a welfare manager for doing good,
provided she has those persorial qualities which
are so necessary to win the respect and affection
of the workers. Tact and sjnupathy, combined
with firmness and a sense of strictly impartial
justice, are the qualities which will stand her in
best stead. The woman who is suited to the
work will find it full of interest and variety,
and will leave no stone unturned to promote
the welfare of those under her charge.
Training should be taken preferably at a
settlement. Good advice upon the best method
of training may bo received from the Hon.
Secretary, The British Institute of Social
Service, 4 Tavistock Street, W.C, or from any of
the Social Settlements.
Prospects. - ^The posts are weU paid - £150 c
year representing a fair average.
Settlement Workers. - Settlement workers are
engaged in carrying out social and educational
work amongst the poor - religious work also
being undertaken in this connection. In regard
to social work, many of the duties are similar
to those of the welfare manager, only they are
applied to a more varied community, for the
work is amongst the poor generally. The
organisation of clubs, tlirift societies, the pro-
viding of entertainmenta, and organisation of
play centres for children, the conducting of
educational work in the form of lectures and
classes, district visiting, and last, but not least,
religioios work, all come within the scope of the
charitable work directed by the various settle-
ments. Another important branch of settle-
ment work is the training of all kinds of social
workers. Each settlement is under the direction
of a warden, who receives a salary of from £50
a year and upwards. Some of the chief settle-
ments for the education of workers have been
mentioned in the first part of this article.
Amongst other settlements which do a large
amount of work amongst the poor are the
following : -
The Canning Town Woman's Settlement,
East London.
Passmore Edwards Settlement, Tavistock
Place, W.C. (No resident women workers.)
The Bemaondsey Settlement, 187 Bermondsey
Street, London, S.E.,f or the benefit of the fewitory
girls of Bermondsey.
The work of the following societies are especi-
ally deserving of mention in regard to religious
as well as philanthropic work among the poor.
The Greyladles. - This is a society of ladies
which devotes itself to rehgious and philan-
thropic work, whose headquarters are the
Greylands College, near Blackheath. The
members of the society can either be resident or
non-resident, and tliree months' probation is
generally required before one can be formally
enrolled as a member. The fees for resident
members are £50 per annum, to be paid in
quarterly instalments. The college, which is
most comfortably fitted up, is under the super-
intendence of ^liss Wordsworth, and there is
notliing ascetic about the life.
The Greyladies do district visiting, hold
meetings and classes, give lectiures and addresses,
organise clubs and excursions - in fact, all kinds
of parish work, with the exception of nursing. Tlie
Bishop of Southwark is president of the college,
and the work is carried on under the incvmibenta
of the diocese, each member of the society being
given the work which seems best suited to her
capabilities.
The aim of the society is to bring together
ladies who wish to devote themselves to Clmrch
work, and enable them to carry it out on some
definite plan and on community lines.
694
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
The Bible women and Nurses' Mission. - The
headquarters of this society are at Ranyaxd
House, 25 Russell Square, so called from the
founder, Mrs. Reuiyard. The aim of the mission is
to send workers into the homes of the poor and
give them religious teacliing and nursing when
required. The Biblewomen are trained mission
visitors who live in different districts of London,
and generally work in connection with some
church or chapel. They try to introduce the
Bible into the homes they visit, and encourage
the poor to buy it on an instalment plan. Can-
didates for the post of Biblewomen should be
between the ages of twenty-five and thirty-five,
and a short training and probation is given in the
hostel, Ranyard House, under trained workers,
the time varying according to the needs of the
worker. A salary is afterwards given according
to the kind of work that is undertaken.
The Ranyard nurses must be fully trained,
and they have generally a few weeks' probation
before being formally accepted. The nxirses
also receive a salary, varj'ing according to their
capabilities, and work under the direction of a
superintending sister.
Both nurses and Biblewomen meet at the
headquarters for devotional services and to give
in reports of the work. Needless to say, only
women who are prepared to live a very simple
life, and who can manage their own hovisekeeping
if necessary, besides having a special love for
the work in hand, should think of taking a post
of the kind. Further particulars can be had
by applying to the secretary of the mission.
House Management, or, as it is most commonly
known, " rent collecting," also affords good
scope for the trained social worker ; and since
the first organisation of this particular work by
Miss Octavia Hill, a number of women have
taken it up with success. The work consists of
transacting all kinds of btosiness in connection
with house property of the poorer classes, and
the house manager will require a good knowledge
and experience of the people among whom she
will have to work. The houses under her
direction will bo almost exclusively those let at
weekly rentals, and in connection with these she
will have to see to the arranging of improvements
and repairs when necessary - reporting upon any
defects in sanitation or other matters reqmring
attention. This is all in addition to the actual
work of rent collecting, which of course also
falls to her share.
The house manager should have a good know-
ledge of the law of landlord and tenant as
applied to weekly tenancies ; she should also
have some knowledge of sanitation, sufficient for
her to advise upon defective sanitary conditions
and suggest improvements where necessary.
A knowledge of book-keeping and business
methods is also essential, as various accounts
in connection with the property have often to be
kept by the house manager.
Training. - A good course of social training,
supplemented by training in business methods
and sanitation will be necessary. It is always
best to train in a settlement, and to supplement
the training by a few months' actual experience
with a house manager. The student should also
take a short coiurse at the Sanitary Institute or
the National Health Society (see Sanitary
Inspectors).
Prospects. - Salaries vary - £40 per annum
being, as a rule, the minimum figure. The
Ecclesiastical Commissioners and many other
large companies owning houses for the poorer
classes employ lady house managers, as do also
other property owners. As a field of work for
women, house management promises further
development in the future.
Relieving Officers. - This branch of social work
for women is as yet in its infancy, as there are
only one or two unions which have appointed
women relieving officers. A number of unions
have, however, appointed women as assistant
relieving officers, and there are therefore much
better prospects to be found in this minor
position. The duties of the women relieving
officers are principally among women. They
have to visit those who are receiving relief and
to arrange for the reception of those women who
wish to enter the maternity wards. A good
knowledge of social work is necessary for the
relieving officer to be able to deal efficiently
with all the applications coming under her
notice. Salaries range from about £100 for
assistant relieving officers, and from £120 for
relieving officers.
Manager of Municipal Milk Depots. - ^Municipal
milk depots have now been inaugurated in
varioxis towns throughout England for the
supply of pure milk to the poorer classes. So
much good has been done by these institution'
that there is every prospect that their ntimber
will bo increased. Women managers are em-
ployed in the milk depots at fairly good salaries,
though these vary in different localities. Train-
ing may best be had by actual experience under
a nianageress.
Children's Care Committees. - The new Acts
in regard to the medical inspection and feeding
of school children are responsible for the evolu-
tion of another field of activity for the social
worker - that of the supervision of Children's
Care Committees.
These committees deal with the work of pro-
viding meals for necessitous school children.
They are required to see, however, that dis-
crimination is exercised in this respect by only
administering the charity where real need for
it exists. They also watch over the health
of the children. They employ health visitors
to visit their homes and give advice to their
parents in regard to health and hygiene. The
London County Council has appointed two
organisers and twelve lady assistant organiaera
SOCIAL AND PHILANTHROPIC WORK
695
to supervise this work. The work of health
visiting under the conunittees is apportioned out
amongst its members, each being responsible
for a certain district.
Posts as school niirses or health visitors and
sanitary inspectors are to be had in London
under the London County Council, in addition
to those to be had in connection with these
committees (see p. 637).
Women in Local Government. - By the Quali-
fication of Women (County and Borough Councils
Act), 1907, women are now eligible for service
on borough and covin ty councils. As is well
known, all administrative work in local govern-
ment is unpaid, but such work ofiers unlimited
opportunities for many well-educated women
who are not obliged to work for their livelihood,
and enjoy incomes of their own. (For paid
official appointments under local authorities,
see Civil Service and Public Work.)
WOMEN IN POLITICS
In this article a comprehensive survey is taken of the part played by women in politics at the present
day. The various ways in which women may help their part at election time are detailed, and
hints are given in regard to the special training needed to become a successful canvasser, platform
speaker, or an efficient worker in committee rooms.
The information in regard to the actual progress of the Women's Suffrage movement, which is
included in this article, will be welcomed by those who have not hitherto studied the question, as it
gives them the knowledge they lack in a simple and easily intelUgible form.
THE WOMAN CANVASSER
In the ranks of all political parties nowadays
the woman electioneer plays a prominent part,
- a more prominent part, in fact, than at any
previous period of our political history, al-
though women have always exerted a certain
influence in politics, an influence which has gone
a long way towards deciding the fate of many
an election.
In former times the weapons employed by the
gentler sex to secure votes for their favourite
candidate were those of fascination and charm,
and many a recalcitrant voter was brought to a
sense of his duty as an elector by the persuasive
smile of some noble dame who often knew little
of the political principles which she had pledged
herself to advocate.
With the canvasser of to-day methods have
changed ; the woman canvasser is a trained
worker, and not only an ardent disciple of her
cause, but also one who is entirely conversant
with the principles which that cause embodies.
She can argue like an expert upon tariff refomi,
free trade, sociaUsm, or any vital point at issue,
and knows to a nicety the kind of argument
which will have most force with the particular
voter she wLshes to capture. Her arguments,
what is more, are based upon a thorough know-
ledge not only of the cause she has espoused,
but also of the claims put forward by the
opposing party ; and with all the tact of a trained
pohtician she points out the flaws in the political
programme of her opponents. Tact, that
greatest of feminine attributes, is absolutely
necessary to convert opponent or " doubtful "
voters to one's own political opinions. Tact,
therefore, is not the least effective weapon in
the armoury of the woman canvasser.
The importance of the role played by suc-
cessful women canvassers at elections has re-
ceived widespread recognition, and the estab-
lishment of classes for canvassers conducted
by political organisations, in which women can
learn the principles and practice of electioneer-
ing, is now one of the outstanding features of
the preparation for elections. In these classes
inexperienced women are initiated into the art
of canvassing and all the principles governing
election procedure.
THE WOMAN SPEAKER
There are speakers' classes, too, for women
who wish to aid their cause by speaking at
political meetings, and the ntunber of these
classes is more than ever typical of the im-
portant part played by woman in poUtics, and
the still more important part which she may in
the future be called upon to play. Not only
is the student initiated into the mysteries '.f
intonation and correct deUvery, but she is
also made to realise the importanco of that
simple, direct, yet forcible style of speaking
which carries conviction, and does more than
anything else to obtain the sympathy of an
audience and hold its attention and interest.
The woman who is a naturally gifted speaker
will do well to attend these classes; by doing
so she will acquire a self-confidence and a finish
which will stand her in good stead. Attendance
at a speakers' class is doubly necessary for the
woman who is not naturally gifted for platform
oratory, but whose duties, nevertheless, will
call upon her at times to speak in public ; for
though she nnay never become a brilliant
speaker, at least by taking instruction at
classes she will learn to say what she has to
say audibly, clearly, and as convincingly as
possible.
Some knowledge of the procedure at public
meetings is also essential. It often falls to
the lot of a woman to take the chair at some
political meeting, and much of its success will
WOMEN IN POLITICS
697
depend upon the manner in which her duties
as president are fulfilled.
WOMEN ORGANISERS
But there are many other important parts
played by women in helping the success of their
cause beyond that of speaking and actual can-
vassing. Nowadays, careful organisation is the
most characteristic feature of our elections,
and often the faihure of a particular candidate
at the polls is largely ascribed to some defect
in the electioneering machinery. Women now-
adays enter largely into the actual organisation
of the campaign of their party. Thus in many
women's committee rooms we find capable
women in authority, carrying on work for the
election agent, attending to important details
in regard to statistics in connection with
voters, &c., and directing a large number of
voluntary women workers who see to all im-
portant detail work in regard to correspondence,
filing of records, making appointments, &c.
The work of these women is of the utmost
value, and cannot but be productive of the
best results.
The woman who embarks upon any of the
branches of election work above described,
and who does her work earnestly and con-
scientiously, may rest satisfied that she is acting
up to her poKtical principles by helping in the
smooth rtmning of the organisation of the
campaign of her par*y ; in fact, that she is doing
her best to help it in every way, whatever may
be the ultimate results of the contest in which
the parties are engaged.
WOMEN'S SUFFRAGE MOVEMENT
The question of women's rights is one of the
most passionate questions of social reform of
ovir day. The character of the women who are
leading the movement, the determined way in
which the arguments are being fought out, the
great impression produced in Parliament, and
the deep and almost unexpected response wliich
the cry of revolt has produced tliroughout the
masses of women of the country, all go to prove
that this is a question that must be seriously
faced and dealt with.
Women, like men, have the desire to expand
their realm of intelligence, to take part in the
affairs of the world, wliich bear upon their lives,
and the restraint and force of mere tradition,
prejudice, or caste, have become intolerable to
them. Women want freer lives because they
want freer development ; they want more cap-
able minds and increased capacities for grappling
with the increasing difficulties of modern civi-
lisation.
The agitation for women's riglits is no new
thing; in many respects it has the air of the
recovery of privileges once enjoyed. In feudal
days women who possessed lands held them on
the same terms as men, and exercised the right
of taking part in the election of members of the
House of Commons. Even as far back as 1739
it was proved that women who held the freehold
of a landed property should vote for Parliament.
In that year, however, the Court decided against
the claims of women. Even as late as 1867 the
law was still uncertain in regard to a nmnber
of these questions, and in that year 230 women
were on the List of the Voters of Manchester,
and the matter was re-argued before it was
definitely decided that they should not exercise
the vote.
There have been many champions of women's
rights long before those with whose names we
are familiar at the present day. Mary Astell,
for example, was one of the great pioneers of
the movement, and her " Serious Proposals to
Ladies " is overflowing with wit and wisdom.
Another, still later and better known, is Mary
Wollstonecraft, and her "Vindication of the
Rights of Women " affords admirable reading.
The next great name is that of John Stuart Mill.
His famous book, " The Subjection of Women,"
made a stir in its time, and brought the question
of Women's Rights within the range of practical
politics, but his movement was defeated.
Following John Stuart Mill we find Benjamin
Disraeli in 1873 advocating Women's Rights in
a letter to a friend.
Of late years the movement has been steadily
gi-owing. Petition after petition, signed by
thousands of women, has been presented in
Parliament, many societies have been founded
throughout the country, and several members
of Parliament have made themselves conspicuous
in advocating the cause. The movement is
organised ; it is becoming consolidate, efficient,
and very powerful. Amongst the multitude of
helpers may be mentioned such influential
bodies as : -
The National Union of Women's Suffrage
Societies, comprising over 200 societies - which
is the parent of all- U Great Smith Street,
London. President: Mrs. Henry Fawcett.
LL.D.
National Women's Social and Political Union.
- Founder and Hon. Sec. : Mrs. Pankhurst,
4 Clement's Inn, London.
Conservative and Unionist Women's Franchise
Association, 48 Dover Street, London, W.-
President : Countess of Selbome.
London Society for Women's Suffrage, 58
Victoria Street, S.W. - President : Lady
Frances Balfour.
The New Constitutional Society, 8 Park
Mansions Arcade, Knightsliridge. - President :
Mrs. C. Chapman.
The Actresses' Franchise League, 2 Robert
Street, Strand. - President; Mrs. Forbes
Robertson.
The Church League for Women's Suffrage,
698
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Irish Women's Franchise League, Free Church
League for Women's SufErage, Men's Political
Union for Women's Enfranchisement, and many
others.
AU these movements have been conducted
on " constitutional " principles, except that
of the Social and Political Union, over 300
of whose members have suffered varying terms
of imprisonment. How far the daring but
self-sacrificing efforts of these ladies have " kept
back the cause for twenty years," or given
it a reality, a vim, an impetus, and a hope-
fulness, it must be left to each reader to form
her own judgment.
In 1910 all the Suffrage Societies imited in
support of a Bill (introduced by Mr. Shackleton,
M.P.) to extend the vote to those women who
now vote municipally. This Conciliation Bill
was carried on its second reading on July 12,
1910, by a majority of 110, and was sent to a
general committee of the whole House, but was
" shelved." Sir George Kemp will submit a new
Bill of a slightly amended form for its second
reading on 3Iay 5.
The text of this new BiU, which is known as
the Conciliation BiU, 1911, is the following : -
1. Every woman possessed of a household
qualification within the meaning of the Repre-
sentation of the People Act (1884) shall bo
entitled to be registered as a voter, and when
registered to vote for the county or borough in
which the qualifying premises are situate.
2. For the purposes of this Act, a woman
shall not be disqualified by marriage for being
registered as a voter, provided that a husband
and wife shall not both be registered as voters
in the same Parliamentary Borough or coimty
division.
The militant suffragists, as well as the con-
stitutional suffragists, are absolutely at one in
their intention of giving all possible support
to this Bill.
What have women to expect as a result
of their enfranchisement ? Certainly not the
'* Golden Age," nor a sovereign remedy for all
ills, but rather a lever to help them slowly so
that in time many of the laws which affect them
may be improved. Tlius by the exercise of the
vote working women expect gradually to im-
prove their conditions of work and wages as
men have done by their enfranchisement. The
present restricted range of women's labour is
another they hope to see removed in time, and
no matter what the character of their work may
be, to have it judged by its true market value
and not by the sex of the worker.
There are various other matters which closely
affect women, such as the housing of the poor,
prison reform, relief of the poor and needy, &c.,
all of which ought to come somewhat within
their jurisdiction.
There are also certain existing laws which
they would have altered, more especially the
divorce laws, which, as they stand, axe a crying
injustice to women.
To remove the stigma now placed upon all
women by including them in such categories
as lunatics, criminals, paupers, aliens, and
minors, and in this way to raise the status of
woman, is another of the aims of the suffragist.
This is a stigma which every self-respecting and
thoughtful woman must resent, and so must any
man who is forced to swear before the altar that
he will " honour " liis wife.
Granting the franchise to women will also re-
move that anomaly of taxation without represen-
tation, which we declare in the case of men to be
tyranny, and it will increase the honesty of our
claim to be a free nation.
It is not only to elevate the position of all
women and to aid the wage-earner and the poor
that the suffragists desire a particular share in
the legislation of the country. By introducing
a new and practical interest into the narrow
lives of that large section of women whose ideas
at present do not extend beyond their attire,
their household, and their domestic or love
affairs, or those of their acquaintances, they hope
gradually to do away with the pettiness, the
narrowness wliich generations of such limited
interests have engendered.
One notable and most desirable effect of this
demand for the elevation of women which is
already perceptible, is the drawing together of
women of all classes of society and poUtics in
one common bond. In the suffragist pro-
cessions are to be seen walking together tho
peeress and the laundry girl, the university
woman and the factory hand, the mistress and
the maid. There is nothing of condescension
or servility on either side, and this condition i^
characteristic of the whole movement.
It will be seen then that the granting of tho
suffrage to women would produce no great
political or social revolution. The demands are
all moderate, just and elevating, for man and
woman alike. Women desire to forward the
progress of humanity towards a higher and
purer civilisation which will include the whole
race. Thus the modern woman having shaken
off much of her dangerous ignorance, her help-
lessness, her weak sentimentality and artifi-
ciality, will become an ennobling and straighten-s
ing influence in national as well as domestic life. \
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
WOMEN'S SOCIETIES AND INSTITUTIONS
POLITICAL ASSOCIATIONS
The Women's Liberal Federation, 72 Victoria
Street, London, S.W., and nearly 700 branches.
Women's Amalgamated Unionist and Tariff
Reform Association, 13a George Street, Hanover
Square, and many branches.
Women's National Liberal Association, 138
Palace Chambers, London, S.W.
Scottish Women's Liberal Federation, 7 West
George Street, Glasgow.
The Primrose League, 64 Victoria Street,
London, S.W.
LOCAL GOVERNMENT
Women's Local Government Society for the
United Kingdom, 17 Tothill Street, Westminster.
Women Guardians and Local Government
Association, 8 Kinnaird Road, Withington.
Yorkshire Ladies' Council of Education, 7 Cook-
ridge Street, Leeds.
Appointment of Women to Public Boards, 83
Bath Street, Glasgow.
Irish Women's Local Government Association,
125 Lunster Road, Rathmines, Dublin.
WOMEN'S NON-POLITICAL ASSOCIATIONS
The International Council of Women, with
which national councils in all j^arts of the world
are affiliated. This Association provides a
means of communication between women's
societies in all countries. The British Branch
is known as : -
The National Council of Women of Great
Britain and Ireland. - Parliament Mansions, West-
minster, London. There are also many branches.
Women's Industrial Council, 7 John Street,
Adelphi, London, W.C. Its aim is to improve
the industrial conditions of women.
Scottish Council for Women's Trades, 58 Ren-
field Street, Glasgow.
Women's Co-operative Guild, 66 Rosslyn Hill,
London, N.W.
Women's Institute, 92 Victoria Street, London,
S.W., for women and others engaged or interested
in professional, educational, and other work,
lectures, conferences, &c.
Victoria League, 2 Millbank House, London,
S.W. An association of British men and
women formed with the object of promoting a
close understanding between British subjects all
over the world.
Society of Women Journalists, 1 Clifford's Inn,
London, E.G.
National Union of Teachers, 67 and 71 Russell
Square, London, W.C.
Teachers' Guild of Great Britain and Ireland,
74 Gower Street, London, W.C.
Association of Head Mistresses, 92 Victoria
Street, London, S.W.
Joint Agency of Women Teachers, 74 Gower
Street, London, W.C.
Association of Assistant Mistresses in Secondary
Schools, 23 Berners Street, London.
Women's Agricultural and Horticultural Union,
64 Sloane Street, London, S.W.
Association of Women Pharmacists, Gordon
Hall, Gordon Square, London, W.C.
Association of Registered Medical Women,
New Hospital for Women, Euston Road, London.
Scottish Association for Medical Education of
Women, Edinburgh.
Women's Sanitary Inspectors' Association, to
protect the interest of sanitary in"; tors and
health visitors. Honorary Secretary, Miss M.
Portlock, 42 Lordship Park, London,' N.
PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETIES
Women's Imperial Health Association, the
object of which is to teach women and girls the
importance of personal and domestic hygiene.
Caravan tours are conducted tlu-ough rural
districts for this purpose.
London Bible women and Nurses' Mission, 25
Russell Square, W.C.
Society for the Relief of Distressed Widows,
32 Sack\nlle Street, London, W.
Associated Societies for the Protection of
700
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Women and Children, 60 Haymarket, London,
S.W.
Governesses' Benevolent Institution and Regis-
tration Offices, 47 Harley Street, London, W.
Society for the Relief of Widows and Orphans
of Medical Men, 11 Chandos Street, Cavendisii
Square, London, \V.
Little Sisters of the Poor, St. Joseph's House,
Portobello Road, Notting Hill, London, W. A
Roman Catholic order which undertakes the
care of tlie aged poor.
Heartsease Society, 17 Moore Street, Cadogan
Square, London.
Gentlewomen's Work Society, 55 Church Road,
Norwood, S.E. For gentlewomen of limited
means.
TEMPERANCE ASSOCIATIONS
British Women's Temperance Association, 47
Victoria Street, London, S.W. President, the
Countess of Carlisle.
Women's Total Abstinence Union, 4 Luc^ate
Hill, London, E.G.
World's Women's Christian Temperance Union.
- President, the Countess of Carlisle.
United Kingdom Band of Hope Union, 60 Old
Bailey, London, E.C.
Young Abstainers' Union, 33 Henrietta Street,
Strand, London, W.C.
FOR CHILDREN AND YOUNG GIRLS
National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Children, Leicester Square, London, W.C.
Children's Country HoUdays' Fxmd, 18 Bucking-
ham Street, Strand, London, W.C. It was
founded with the view of affording country
hohdays to children attending pubUc elementary
schools when needed.
Children's Protection League, 8 More's Gardens,
Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, London, S.W. The aim
of the society is to help in the carrying out of
existing legislation in regard to child life and
to promote further legislation towards rescuing
children from dangerous surroundings.
Girls' Friendly Society, 39 Victoria Street,
Westminster, London, S.W. A society for girls
and young women to encourage mutual help and
good citizenship ; has homes and employment
bureaux for girl workers.
National Society of Day Nurseries, 1 Sydney
Street, Fulham, London, S.W. Organised to
promote the efficiency of creches throughout the
kingdom.
Guild of the Brave Poor Things, University
Settlement, Farncombe Street, S.E., to help
crippled men, women and children.
National Vigilance Association and Interna-
tional Bureau for the Suppression of the White
Slave Traffic, 161a Strand, London, W.C. This
Society has national committees all over Europe
actively engaged in furthering its objects. A
feature of the work is the sending by the Society
of ladies to the chief rjuiway stations and ports
in England to meet girls travelling alone to or
from this country and give them any assistance
they may require. Inquiries are also made by
the Society on behalf of girls about to take
situations abroad, in regard to the character
of their employers.
Ragged School Union and Shaftesbury Society,
32 Jolin Street, Tlieobalds Row, London, is
engaged in all kinds of charitable work for
children.
Santa Claus Society, Choknely Park, Highgate,
London, N., provides gifts for sick people in
the hospitals and toys for the children.
Girl Guides. - ^Honorary Secretary Miss Baden-
Powell, 116 Victoria Street, London, S.W. The
aims of the organisation correspond with those
of General Baden-Powell's Boy Scouts, namely,
to teach girls the duties of good citiziensMp and
practical self-help.
Travellers' Aid Society, 3 Baker Street, London,
W. A society for the protection of young
women and girls travelling alone. These may be
met by arrangement at railway stations and
ports by ladies employed by the society, who will
see them to their destination and engage rooms
for them, if necessary%
Young Women's Christian Association, 25 and
26 George Street, Hanover Square, London,
with branch offices all over the Idngdom and also
abroad.
LONDON RESIDENTIAL HOMES AND
CLUBS
Alexandra House, Kensington.
Boarding-House for Governesses, &c., 223 Elgin
Avenue.
Brabazon House, IMoreton Street, S.W. Single
rooms from 7s. 6d., double rooms IBs. 6d.,
cubicles 5s. to 7s. Full board 10s. Rd. a week.
Breakfast and dinner only with full board on
Sundays, 8s. 6d. a week.
Hall of Residents for Students and Professional
Gentlewomen, 33 Cheniston Gardens, Kensington,
S.W.
Hopkinson House, 88 Vauxhall Bridge Road.
Under same management as Brabazon House.
Rudyard House, 52 Longridge Road, Earl's
Court. Nine single rooms with board from £1, Is.
weekly. Cubicles from 18s. 6d.
Connaught Club, 134 to 136 Elgin Avenue.
Entrance fee 5s. Rooms, furnished and un-
furnished, 4s. 6d. to 12s. Board 9s. 6d. /
St. George's Hostel for Ladies, 77 and 79/
Gloucester Street, Warwick Square, S.W'
Board and lodging (cubicles) from 14s.
Rooms (single) 19s. to 21s. Bed-sitting-rr
from £1, 2s. 6d.
St. Monica's Hostel, 19 Brooke Street, Holbc
Cubicles with board 12s. 6d., rooms from 14s.
Residential Home and Club. - ^Miss Lena As ^
\
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
well's scheme to provide a home for women con-
nected with the diamaticj, musical and artistic
professions bids fair to be fulfilled. A large
house has been taken in Marylebone Road, and
it is anticipated that it will be ready in September.
It will provide accommodation for a hundred
ladies. The residential rates will be from 15s.
to 25s., including cubicle or bedroom, breakfast
and dinner.
20th Century Club, 24 and 29 Stanley Gardens,
Netting Hill Gate. Terms moderate.
St. Andrew's House Club, 31a Mortimer Street.
For nurses and ladies engaged in the medical
profession.
French Home for Governesses, 18 Lancaster
Gate, London, W.
Roman Catholic Home of Residence for Gover-
nesses, Brompton Square, London.
Y.W.C.A., Kent House, 89 to 91 Great Portland
Street ; Y.W.C.A. Home, 8 Kemplay Road,
Hampstead, and many others.
FLATS AND RESIDENTIAL CHAMBERS
IN LONDON
Chenies Street Chambers, Bloomsbury, W.C.
York Street Chambers, Bryanston Square, W.
Waterlow Court, Hampstead Garden Suburb.
Rents of flats from £1, 14s. a month.
St. Saviour's Hospital for Ladies of Limited
Means, Osnaburgh Street, London, N.W. For
terms, &c., apply to the Honorary Secretary.
Hospital for Invalid Gentlewomen, 19 Lisson
Grove, London, W.
Hospital for Invalid Gentlewomen, 90 Harley
Street, London, 25s. to 60s.
CONVALESCENT HOMES FOR GENTLEWOMEN
AND MEDICAL AID SOCIETIES
The Buckmaster Memorial Home for Gentle-
women, Broadstairs.
St. Mary's, Dean Park, Bournemouth.
Lady Smyth's Home, Long Ashton, Bristol.
Home of Rest for Necessitous Gentlewomen,
FeUxstowe.
Teachers' Home of Rest, Hastings.
Governesses' Convalescent Home, Southport.
Medical Aid Society for Necessitous Gentle-
women, 7 St. Catherine's Precincts, Gloucester
Gate, London, N.W., provides medical and
surgical aid for gentlewomen of limited means
and women workers.
LOAN FUNDS FOR WOMEN
These funds help women who are desirous of
training in any special subject and have not
sufficient means to do so. The loan was to be
repaid in instalments when a post has been
obtained.
The following societies have instituted Loan
Funds : -
(1) The Society for Promoting the Employ-
ment of Women, 23 Bemers Street, Oxford
Street, London.
(2) The Central Bureau for the Employment of
Women, 5 Princes Street, CavencUsh Square,
London.
(3) The Women's Institute, 92 Victoria Street,
London, W.
(4) The Manchester Employment Association,
1 Ridgefieid, Iving Street, Manchester.
(5) Scottish Central Bureau, 25 Queen Street,
Edinburgh.
(6) Irish Central Bureau, 30 Molesworth Street,
DubUn.
(7) Gentlewomen's Emergency Fund, Leeds.
(8) Guild of Service and Good Fellowship, La
BoUe Savage, Ludgate Hill, London.
(9) Educated Women Workers' Loan Training
Fund, St. Stephen's Chambers, Telegraph Street,
London.
Note. - ^There are many other training funds
in connection with training schools and em-
ployment bureaus throughout the country.
Seep. 361.
LADIES' CLUBS
PLACES OF INTEREST IN LONDON
ART GALLERIES, &c.
Academy, Royal, BurUngton House, Piccadilly,
A&V- Open from 1st Monday in May to 1st
the ^nday in August, from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Ad-
f ission Is. Evenings last week, 6d.
fif Dor6 Gallery, 35 >^ew Bond Street, W. Private
orallery.
I Dulwieh Gallery, Dulwich College, S.E. Free.
Open every day from 10 .\.m. to dusk. Sundays,
July to September, from 2 to 5 p.m.
French Gallery, 120 Pall Mall, S.W. Private
Gallcrj'.
Grafton Gallery, Grafton Street, Bond Street,
W. Private Gallery.
Guildhall Art Gallery, the Guildliall, King
702
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Street, Cheapside, E.G. Free. Open daily from
10 A.M. to dusk.
Hanover Gallery, 47 New Bond Street, W.
Private Gallorj'.
Lelghton House, 2 Holland Park Road, Ken-
sington, W. Tuesdays and Saturdays free ;
other days Is. by ticket. Open 10.30 a.m. to
5.30 P.M.
National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, W.C.
Thursdays and Fridays, 6d., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. ;
other days free from 10 a.m. to 4, 5 or 6 p.m.
Simdays from 2 to 4, 5 or 6 p.m.
National Gallery of British Art (Tate Gallery),
Grosvenor Road, ^lillbank, S.W. Tuesdays and
Wednesdays, 6d., from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. ; other
days free from 10 a.m. to 4, 5 or 6 p.m. Sundays
from 2 to 4, 5, or 6 p.m.
National Portrait Gallery, St. Martin's Place,
W.C. Thursdays and Fridays, 6d., from 10 a.m.
to 4 or 5 P.M. ; other days free from 10 a.m. to
4, 5 or 6 P.M. Sundays from 2.30 to 5.30 p.m.,
or until dusk in winter.
New Gallery, 121 Regent Street, W. Ad-
mission Is.
Royal Institute of Oil Painters, 195 Piccadilly.
Admission Is.
Royal Institute of Painters in Water Colours,
195 Piccadilly, W.
Royal Society of Painters in Water Colours,
5a Pall Mall East, S.W.
Royal Society of British Artists, Suffolk Street,
Pall I\Iall East, S.W. Admission Is.
Wallace Collection, Hertford House, Man-
chester Square, W. Tuesdays and Fridays, 6d. ;
other days free. Open from 10 a.m. (excepting
Monday 12 noon) to 4, 5 or 6 p.m. Open Sundays
from 2 P.M.
CATHEDRALS, CHURCHES, &c.
Brompton Oratory, Brompton Road, South
Kensingixsn, W. This well-known Roman
Catholic Church is a fine example of the Itahan
Renaissance style of architecture, and is noted
for the beautiful musical services held there.
Chapel Royal, Color Court, St. James's Palace,
S.W.
Chapel Royal, Savoy, W.C.
City Temple, Holbom Viaduct, E.C. Wa,s
built for the late Dr. Joseph Parker. The present
minister is the Rev. R. J. Campbell. A service
is held every Thursday at 12 noon in addition
to the Sunday services.
Great Synagogue, St. James's Place, Aldgate,
E.C. Chif>f Rabbi : Rev. Hermann Adlcr, D.D.
St. Bartholomew Church, Smithficld, E.C.
The oldest and one of the most interesting
churches in London. Open daily from 9 a.m.
to 5 P.M.
St. George's Cathedral, St. George's Road,
Southwark, S.E. Roman Cathohc.
St. Paul's Cathedral. The main entrance
looks down Ludgate Hill, E.C. This magnificent
and colossal edifice took thirty-five years to
build, and was completed in 1710. It contains
the remains of some of our most famous naval
and military heroes and other eminent men.
The nave and transepts are open free. Admis-
sion to view the Wliispering Gallery, Stone
Gallery, Clock, and Librarj-, 6d. ; Crypt, 6d. ;
Golden Gallery, Is. ; Ball, Is.
St. Peter's (Italian Church), Clerkenwell Road,
E.C. Roman Catholic.
Southwark Cathedral, lately St. Saviom-'s,
Southwark.
Temple (The) Church, situated in The Temple,
off Fleet Street, celebrated for its musical
services. Orders for service on Sunday at
11 A.M. may be obtained by writing to the
Master of the Temple. Afternoon service
at 3 P.M. without orders. Master, Rev. H. G.
Woods, D.D.
Westminster Abbey, Old Palace Yard, West-
minster, S.W. A magnificent ecclesiastical edi-
fice, founded in the seventh centiiry. From
the reign of Edward the Confessor to the present
day, without a break, the Sovereigns of England
have been crowned in the Abbey ; and here also
are the tombs and montunents of many of
England's monarchs and of numbers of the
leading men in English liistory. Open daily.
Ambulatory and Royal Chapels, admission 6d.,
except Mondays and Tuesdays, which are free
days. From November to February the Abbey
is closed after the afternoon service.
Westminster Cathedral, Ashley Gardens, S.W.
Roman Catholic. Wlien completed, this superb
cathedral will be one of the finest of its class
in existence. The foundation stone was laid in
1895.
Tabernacle, Metropolitan, Newington Butts
(close to liilephant and Castle). In the original
building enormous congregations were attract^I
by the preaching of the late Rev. C. H. Spurgeon.
Burnt down in 1898 and rebuilt in 1900.
MEMORIALS, MONUMENTS, &c.
Albert Memorial, facing the Albert Hall,
Kensington Road, W. A handsome monument,
vdih gilt bronze statue of Prince Albert and over
150 figiu"es in marble. Erected by Queen
Victoria and the people of England in memory
of tlio Prince Consort, at a cost of £120,000.
Cleopatra's Needle, Victoria Embankment, S.W.
This famous obelisk, which originally stood
before the Temple of Heliopohs, is 68 feet high.
It was presented to the nation by Mehemet Ali
in 1819, and conveyed to this country by Dr.
Erasmus Wilson.
Duke of Wellington's Statue, opposite Apsley
House, Hydo Park Corner.
Duke of York's Column, St. James's Park, S.W.
A column 120 feet high, surmounted by a statue
in bronze of the Duke of York, second son of
George HI.
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
703
Marble Arch. This sculptured arch, with its
handsome bronze gates, forms the north-east
entrance to Hyde Park, and cost over £80,000.
It was designed by George IV. as a porte-cochere
to Buckingham Palace, but was re-erected in its
present position in 1851.
Monument, at the northern approach to
London Bridge. A fluted column of Portland
stone, 202 feet high, and ascended by a spiral
staircase of 345 steps. It was erected to com-
memorate the Great Fire of London of 1666,
which started at this spot. Admission 3d.
Nelson Column, Trafalgar Square, W.C. A
granite Corinthian column 150 feet high, sur-
mounted by a statue of the hero of Trafalgar,
erected by the nation to commemorate Nelson's
great victory.
Queen Victoria Memorial, in front of Bucking-
ham Palace. Unveiled May 1911.
MUSEUMS
Bethnal Green (Branch of the Victoria and
Albert Museimi), Cambridge Road, E. Free.
Open Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from
10 A.M. to 10 P.M. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and
Fridays, from 10 A.M. to 4, 5 or 6 p.m., according
to the time of year. Simdays from 2 p.m. to
dusk.
British, Great Russell Street, Bloomsbiary, W.C.
Free. Open week-days from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sundays, 2 p.m. to 4, 5, or 6 p.m., according to
the time of year.
Carlyle's House, Che5me Row, Chelsea, S.W.
Open daily from 10 a.m. to stmset. Admission
Is.
Homiman, London Road, Forest Hill, S.E.
Free. Open daily ; week-days, 11 a.m. to 6 or
8 P.M. Sundays, 3 to 9 p.m.
Imperial Institute, South Kensington, W.
Opened by Queen Victoria in 1893. Contains
interesting collections representing the industries
of the British Colonies. Open daily, except
Sundays, from 10 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. Admission
free. The main portion of the building is
occupied as the headquarters of the London
University.
Indian Museum (part of Victoria and Albert
Museum), Exhibition Road, South Kensington,
S.W. Free. Open daily. Hours same as
Victoria and Albert.
NaturalHistory(Branch of the British Museum),
Cromwell Road, South Kensington, S.W. Free.
Open week-days from 10 a.m., and on Svmdays
from 2.30 p.m. Time of closing varies from 4 to
8 p.m.
Practical Geology, Jermyn Street, Piccadilly,
S.W. Free. Open week-days 10 a.m. to 4 or
5 P.M. Mondays and Saturdays to 10 p.m.
Sundays from 2 p.m. till dusk.
Royal United Service Association, Whitehall,
S.W. Adrnission 6d. (Sailors, Soldiers, and
Policemen in imiform free). Open from 11 a.m.
to 4 P.M. in winter and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. in
summer.
Science Museum. - Exhibition Road and Im-
perial Institute Road, South Kensington. Free.
For times when open refer to Victoria and
Albert.
Sir John Soane's, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields. Free.
Open daily, excepting Mondays and Saturdays,
from 10.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. from March to August
inclusive.
Victoria and Albert, South Kensington, S.W.
Open Mondays, Tliursdays, and Saturdays from
10 A.M. to 10 p.m. free. On Tuesdays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 4, 5 or 6 p.m.,
according to the time of year. Admission 6d.
Sundays free from 2 p.m. to dusk.
PRINCIPAL THEATRES
Adelphi, 410 Strand, W.C.
Aldwych, Aldwych, Strand, W.C.
Apollo, Shaftesbury Avenue, W.
Comedy, Panton Street, S.W.
Court, Sloane Square, S.W.
Covent Garden, Bow Street, W.C.
Criterion, Piccadilly Circus, W.
Daly's, Leicester Square, W.
Drury Lane, Catherine Street, W.C.
Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane, W.C.
Gaiety, 345 Strand, W.C.
Garrick, 2 Charing Cross Road, W.C.
Globe, Shaftesbury Avenue, W.
Haymarket, 7 Hajonarket, S.W.
His Majesty's, Haymarket, S.W.
Imperial, Tothill Street, S.W. (closed).
Kings way, Great Queen Street.
Little Theatre, John Street, Adelphi.
Lyceum, Wellington Street, Strand.
Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W.
New, St. Martin's Lane, W.C.
New Royalty (Theatre Frangais), 73 Dean
Street, Soho, W.
Playhouse, The, Northumberland Avenue, S.W.
Prince of Wales's, Coventry Street, W.
Princess's, 152 Oxford Street, W. (closed).
Queen's Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W.
St James's, Iving Street, S.W.
Savoy, Strand and Embankment.
Scala, Charlotte St., Fitzroy Square, W.
Shaftesbury, Shaftesbury Avenue, W.
Terry's, 105 Strand, W.C. (now a " Picture
Palace ").
Vaudeville, 404 Strand, W.C.
Whitney, Aldwj^ch, E., Strand, W.C.
Wyndham's, Charing Cross Road, W.C.
CHIEF VARIETY THEATRES
Coliseum, St. IMartin's Lane, W.C.
London Hippodrome, Cranboume Street, W.C.
Palace, Shaftesbury' Avenue, W.C,
Palladium, Oxford Circus, W.
704
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
OTHER PLACES OF ENTERTAINMENT
Agricultural HaU, Royal, Upper Street, Isling-
ton N Trade and other exliibitions and shows
are'lieid here. Cattle Show, Dairy Show, and
Horse Shows. ,-,-•. owt
Albert HaU, Royal, South Kensington, S.W.
ConcertB and large ]SIeetings. The haU holds
from 8000 to 10,000 people and contains one ot
the largest organs in the world.
Alexandra Palace, Muswell HiU, N. Exhibi-
tions and various Entertainments. Tlie palace
stands in delightful grounds.
Crystal Palace, Sydenham, S.E. Exhibitions,
Concerts, &c. Beautiful grounds of 200 acres
First-class Cricket and Football grounds and
-Vthletic tracks. The final tie for the Association
FootbaU Cup is held hero. Headquarters of the
London County Cricket Club, which is managed
by Dr. W. G. Grace.
Earl's Court, W. Summer Exhibitions.
Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, S.W.
Exhibitions and Shows held here.
Olympia, Addison Road, Kensington, W.
Large Spectacular Exhibitions, including Mih-
tary Tournament. "t /-i
Queen's HaU, Langham Place, W. Concert
Steinway HaU, Lower Seymour Street, W.
Concert Hall. ttt it
St. George's HaU, Langham Place, W. Mas-
kelyne's Home of Mystery.
White City, Shepherd's Bush. Annual 3i.x-
hibitions held here. , ^ , -kt tut t-
Zoological Gardens, Regent s Park, N.W. tux-
tensive and interesting collection o£ animals,
birds, reptiles, &c.
OFFICIAL BUILDINGS
Bank of England, Threadneedle Street, E.G.
The premises are guarded every night by the
military. .
Central Criminal Court.- It is built on the site
of Newgate prison, and takes the place of " The
Old Bailey."
Custom House, Lower Thames Street, E.C.
General Post Office, St. Martin's le Grand and
King Edward Street, E.C. Here are situated,
in a group of lofty and extensive buildings,
the headquarters of the enormous postal and
telegraphic businoss of this country.
Greenwich Hospital (now known as the Royal
Naval College). The Painted Hall contains a
coUection of naval reUcs and pictures. May be
viewed free daily.
Greenwich Observatory.- This famous obser-
vatory is not open to the pubhc, and cannot
be viewed except by special permission of the
Astronomer Royal.
Government Offices.
Admiralty, Tlie . .
Board of Trade Offices
Colonial Office
Foreign Office .... Whit^haU
Home Office . ■ ■ • . \ and
Horse Guards .... g^ James's Park.
India Office . .
Privy Council Office
The Treasury . .
War Office ...... . , x^ /^ xt * i
GulldhaU, Iving's Street, Cheapside, E.C. Noted
for its great civic functions and receptions to
foreign potentates and distinguished persons.
On the 9th November each year the Lord Mayor a
Banquet is held in this liistoric and interest-
ing building. An excellent Museum and Art
Gallery and Free Library are contained in the
Guildlmll, and are open to the pubhc free daily.
Houses of Parliament, Westminster, b.W.
Visitors are admitted to view these beautiful
and stately buildings on Saturdays from 10 to
4, except when ParUament is assembled. Ad-
mission to the Strangers' Gallery of the House
of Commons, when sitting, can be obtained by
an order from a Member of ParUament.
Lambeth Palace, Lambeth Palace Road, close
to Lambeth Bri.lge. The town residence of the
Archbishops of Canterbury. May be -viewed by
permission of the Archbishop's Chaplain.
Law Courts, Strand, W.C. A magmficent
block of buildings, opened by Queen Victoria
in 1872. Visitors are admitted to the public
galleries when the Courts are sitting, or may view
the Central Hall dming the vacation upon appli-
cation to the Superintendent.
Mansion House, Queen Victoria Street, Ђ^.^.
Tliis historic building, which dates back to the
year 1739, is used as the Official Residence of the
Lord Mayor of London. _
Mint, Tower HiU, E.C. Upon application, by
letter, to the Deputy -Master of the Mint, admis-
sion may be obtained to inspect this establish-
ment, where the gold and silver coinage of tho
realm is produced by wonderful machinery.
Record Office, Chancery Lane, W.C. A
splendid block of fire-proof buildings of Tudor
architecture, contairung priceless nationa records
and State papers, including the celebrated
Domesday Book. The public are admitted free
Royal Exchange, Threadneedle Street and
Comhill, E.C. May be viewed by any one vnsh-
ing to do so, except during business hours- .i.^u
to 4 30. Part of the building is occupied by
" Lloyd's," known the world over in connection
with underwriting and ship insiu-ance.
Royal Hospital, Chelsea, for old and disabled
soldiers. Founded 1682. , ". , . xp_
Somerset House, Strand and Victoria l.m-
bankment, W.C, contains numerous Govom-
ment offices, including Probate Registry Office,
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
705
Inland Revenue Office, Audit Office, Office of
the Registrar General of Births, Deaths and
Marriages, &c. It is a remarkably fine building
and one of the largest in London. It cost about
£1,000,000 to build.
Stock Exchange, Capel Covu-t, Bartholomew
Lane, E.G. The money market for buying and
selling Stocks, Shares and Securities. Not open
to the public.
Tower of London. - Tower Hill, E.G. This
ancient fortress has a most interesting history
dating from the time of WiUiam the Gonqueror.
Open daily (Sundays excepted). Mondays and
Saturdays free. Admission to view the Ar-
mouries, 6d., and the Crown Jewels, 6d.
Westminster Hall. - The entrance to the
Houses of Parliament. Originally built by
WiUiam Rufus, it is one of the oldest and grandest
architectural c+ructiu-es in the Metropolis.
Woolwich Arsenal. - Open for inspection by
British subjects on Tuesdays and Thiirsdays by
card, to be obtained at the War Office, Pall Mall.
ROYAL PALACES
Buckingham Palace, St. James's Park, S.W.
Built by George IV. The London Residence of
their Majesties the Bang and Queen. Not open
to the public, but permits to inspect the Royal
Stables may be obtained from the Master of the
Horse.
Hampton Court Palace, Hampton, Middlesex.
This imposing mansion, erected by Cardinal
Wolsey, with its beautiful grounds and park, is
situate on the Thames, 15 miles from London.
The State Apartments, with a choice collection
of pictures, are open to the pubhc free of charge
daily (except Fridays), Sundays from 2 p.m.
Kensington Palace, Kensington Gardens, W.
Tliis Palace is of particular interest as the birth-
place of Queen Victoria. The State Rooms are
open to the public free daily (except Wednesdays,
Christmas Day and Good Friday). Sundays
2 to 6 P.M.
Marlborough House, Pall Mall, S.W. The
town residence of Queen Alexandra. It was
built in 1708.
St. James's Palace, St. James's Street, S.W.
Built by Henry VIII. The official town residence
of the Court since the fire at Whitehall in 1698.
The Park of the same name was originally the
grounds of the Palace, but was opened for the
public in 1829.
Windsor Castle, Windsor, Berks. Has been a
residence of the British sovereigns since the time
of the Conqueror, who began the first building.
Many monarclis have added to and altered the
original building. When the King is not in
residence, the State Apartments are open to the
public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thiirsdays
from 11 A.M. to 3 or 4 p.m. The Stables daily
from 1 to 2.30 p.m. St. George's Chapel daily,
excepting Wednesdays, from 12.30 to 3 or 4 p.m.
THE ROYAL FAMILY
His Most Excellent Majesty George the Fifth,
by the Grace of God of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, and of the British
Dominions beyond the Seas, King, Defender of
the Faith, Emperor of India ; second son of
lais late Majesty Edward VII. and Queen
Alexandra, born 186.5, married 1893 the Prin-
cess Victoria Mary of Teck, only daughter of
the Princess Mary Adelaide (of Cambridge) by
her marriage with Francis, Duke of Teck, suc-
ceeded to the throne May '-j, 1910, and has
issue : -
(1) H.R.H. Edward Albert Christian George
Andrew Patrick David, Prince of Wales -
born -JSrd Juno, 1804.
(2) H.R.H. Albert Frederick Arthur George -
born 1895.
(3) H.R.H. Victoria Alexandra Alice Mary -
born 1897.
(4) H.R.H. Henry William Frederick Albert
-born 1900.
(5) H.R.H. George Edward Alexander Ed-
mund- born 1902.
(6) H.R.H. John Charles Francis- born 1905.
DESCENDANTS OF QUEEN VICTORIA
(1) H.I.M. Victoria, Empress Frederick of
Germany - born 1840, married 1858 Crown
Prince, afterwards Emperor of Germany, and left
issue of whom the eldest is William II., Emperor
of Germany, born 1859, married 1881 to Princess
Augusta Victoria of Schleswig Holstein.
(2) The late King Edward the Seventh.
(3) H.R.H. Alice Maud Mary- born 1843,
married 1862 to H.R.H. Louis IV., Grand Duke
of Hesse, died 1878 and left issue. Alice
Victoria, the youngest, born 1872, married 1894
H.I.M. the Czar of Russia. They have four
daughters and one son.
(4) H.R.H. Alfred Ernest Albert, Duke of
Edinburgh, and Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha -
born 1844, married 1874 the Grand Duchess
Marie Alexandro\Tia of Russia, died 1900, and
left issue one son and four daughters. The
eldest daughter, Marie, married Ferdinand, the
Crown Prince of Roumania.
(5) H.R.H. Helena Augusta Victoria - born
1846, married 1866 to Prince Frederick
2y
706
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
Christian, C.A. of Schleswig-Holatein, and has
issue.
(6) H.R.H. Louise Carolina Alberta - born
1848, married 1871 the Marquis of Lome, now
Duke of Argyll.
(7) H.R.H. Arthur William Patrick Albert,
Duke of Connaught^ - born 1850, married 1879
Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia, and has
issue. The eldest daughter, Margaret, married
1905 the Crown Prince of Sweden.
(8) H.R.H. Leopold George Duncan Albert,
Duke of Albany - born 1853, married Princess
Helen, daughter of the late Prince George of
Waldeck, died 1884 and left issue - Leopold,
Duke of Albany and Duke of Saxe-Coburg, and
Princess Alice Iklary (Princess Alexander of
Teck).
(9) H.R.H. Beatrice Mary Victoria Feodora -
born 1857, married 1885 to Prince Henry
Maurice of Battenberg, who died 1896, and left
issue. The only daughter, Victoria Eugenie,
married 1906 H.M. King Alphonso of Spain,
and has issue two sons and one daughter.
DESCENDANTS OF EDWARD VII.-
ALEXANDRA OF DENMARK
(1) H.R.H. Albert Victor Christian Edward
of Wales, Duke of Clarence and Avondale -
born 8th January, 1864, died 14th January, 1892.
(2) H.M. King George V.
(3) H.R.H. Louise Victoria Alexandra Dag-
mar, Princess Royal, Duchess of Fife - born
1867, married 1889 to the Duke of Fife. They
have two daughters - H.H. Princess Alexandra,
born 1891, and H.H. Princess Maud, bom
1893.
(4) H.R.H. Victoria Alexandra Olga Mary -
born 1868.
(5) H.R.H. Maud Charlotte Mary Victoria -
born 1869, married 1896 to Haakon, King of
Norway. They have one son, Alexander
Edward Christian Frederick (Olaf), bom
1903.
(6) H.R.H. Alexander John Charles Albert,,
bom 6th April, died 7th April 1871.
THE CONSTITUTION AND ADMINISTRATIVE GOVERNMENT
OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE
The country is governed by a Sovereign
Parliament consisting of three interdependent
parts - the Crown, the Lords, and the Commons.
From a legal point of view it should be re-
niembered that Parliament includes the King
as well as the two Houses.
The Crown. - The King has certain rights,
powers, and prerogatives which enable him to
do certain things without the concurrence of
the Lords and Commons. He has the right of
making treaties with foreign sovereigns and
states, although in practice the King never
makes any treaty except on the advice of his
Ministers. The King has also the prerogative
right of making war on foreign states, although
he does not exercise this right except through
the instrumentality of his Ministers. The
creation of Peers, conferring of the order of
knighthood and various other orders and titles,
together with the regulation of the order of
precedence, also form part of the royal pre-
rogative, although in practice appointments are
made and honours conferred by the King after
consultation with his Ministers.
When the owners of land die intestate and
without heirs, the Crown succeeds to the pro-
perty. The Crown has also a prerogative right
to gold, silver, or other treasure found in the
soil in cases where the true owner is unknown.
The Crown has also the right of pardoning
persons convicted of crimes - a right, however,
which is only exercised upon the advice of the
Home Secretary. It is also a constitutional
precept that " The King can do no Wrong,"
consequently it is impossible to take any pro-
ceedings against the King for any crime or
tort. If, therefore, property has come invO the
possession of the Crown which rightly belongs
to a subject, the latter can only proceed by
way of petition, which is drawn up and left at
the Home Office for His Majesty's fiat (pwr-
mission to proceed). When the fiat is granted
the petition is heard in the High Court of
Justice and judgment given upon it in the same
manner as in the case of actions between sub-
ject and subject.
House of Lords. - The House of Lords or the
Upper House of Parliament consists of the Lords
Spiritual and Temporal. The number of Peers
who sit in the House of Lords is not fixed.
Peers are members of the House of Lords by
hereditary right. Hereditary peerages are con-
tinually becoming extinct through the death
without heirs of the holders, but this con-
tinual and gradual decrease in their numbers is
more than made up again by the creation of
new Peers. The House of Lords has the power
of amending or rejecting a Bill passed by the
House of Commons. They cannot, however,
amend a " Money Bill," and their legal right to
reject this is practically obsolete. The refusal
of the House of Lords in 1909 to pass the
Budget until a General Election had taken place
upon it raised the great constitutional question
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
707
whether the House of Lords had the right to
reject the Budget. In 1910 a conference of the
Government and the Opposition met to consider
the question so raised, but they failed to arrive
at an agreement, and the reform of the House
of Lords is a matter now under consideration.
The House of Commons. - The House of
Commons consists of 670 members who are
elected to represent their constituencies. At
the opening of ParUament the Commons are
called to the bar of the Upper House and directed
to elect a Speaker, and the first duty of members
after the election of their Speaker is to take the
oath of allegiance. The House arranges its own
sittings and can always alter the arrangements.
Of the three portions of our Sovereign Parlia-
ment the so-called Lower House is undoubtedly
constitutionally the most important. The
Commons are an elected body, and since the
electors are drawn from practically every class
of the conununity, the political opinions of the
House of Commons fairly represent, as a rule,
the opinions of the majority of the nation. In
fact, it may be said that the House of Commons
rule the country subject to the power of the
Crown and the House of Lords to check party
and ill-considered action.
Party Government. - It has always been the
practice of the various individuals who con-
stitute the two Houses of ParUament to organise
themselves into parties for the purpose of
securing legislation according to their opinions,
as opinions are only pass'^d into law when
backed by strong majorities. From the larger
of the two leading parties in the House the
executive Government is formed, the duty of
criticising their policy and administrating Acts
failing to the smaller party known as the
" Opposition."
Cabinet and Premier. - The Cabinet is a body
composed of the heads of the chief executive
department who are jointly responsible for the
government of the country. The chief of the
Cabinet and the head of the Parliamentary
executive is called the Prime Minister.
The Ministry. - His Majesty's Ministers are
now always appointed on the advice of the
Premier, and consist of some forty or more
persons, rather less than half of whom fom* the
Cabinet. The Ministry is drawn from the
predominant party in Parliament, the majority
being chosen from the House of Commons. If
the Secretary uf State for any of the great de-
partments is a member of the House of Lords,
it is usual for the department to be represented
in the House of Commons by the corresponding
Under-Secretary, whose duty it is to answer
questions respecting the policy of the depart-
ment.
COLONIAL GOVERNMENT
Difierent colonies are governed in different
ways ; all are under the Crown, but they are not
all subject to the control of the British ParUa-
ment.
Sir William Anson in his " Law and Custom of
the Constitution " groups the systems of govern-
ment for different colonies into four great
classes : -
(1) Colonies with no legislature. For these
the Crown legislates by means of Orders in
Council, usually counter-signed by the
Secretary of State, the executive powers
being vested in a governor appointed by the
Crown on the advice of the Ministry. Gib-
raltar is perhaps the best-known instance of
this class of colony.
(2) Colonies with a nominated legislature.
In each of these there is a governor and exe-
cutive and legislative councils, all the members
of which are nominated either by the Crown
or by the governor. The best-known Instance
of this class are the Straits Settlements of
Singapore, Penang, and Malacca.
(3) Colonies with an elected legislature and a
nominated^ executive. Even in these colonies,
of which the Bahamas are an instance, a
portion of the legislature is nominated by the
Cx'own.
(4) Colonies with responsible government. In
these the Crown is represented by a governor,
who is assisted by two chambers, generally
called the Legislative Council and the
Legislative Assembly. The assembly is
wholly elected by the colonists, whilst the
members of the legislative council are in
some colonies elected, and in others appointed
by the governor on the advice of the executive
council, a body nominated not by the Crown
but by himself. To this class of colonies
belong Canada, Newfoimdland, Australia,
New Zealand, and United South Africa.
Tlie Home control of the colonies is exercised
on behalf of His Slajesty by the Colonial Office,
through its Secretary of State, and this right of
control is exercised over all the British pos-
sessions except the Isle of Man, the Channel
Islands, and the Indian Empire. Indian affairs
are under the control of the Secretary of State
of the India Office. Tlie Secretary of State is
assisted in advising the Crown by a council of
twelve members, none of whom may sit or vote
in Parliament. The major part of the council
is chosen from persons who have spent at least
ten years in India.
708
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
PRINCIPAL COLONIES AND THEIR GOVERNORS
Component Parts.
British India-
Ceylon
BRiTisn America-
Canada
Newfoundland .
British Honduras
British Guiana .
British Australasia-
New South Wales
Victoria
Queensland
South Australia
Western Australia
Tasmania .
British New Guinea
New Zealand
BRITISH Africa-
(1) South Africa.
Cape of Good Hope .
Natal
Forming the Australian
Commonwealth, a feder-
ation of self -governed
states.
Administered by the Com-
monwealth Government.
I Self -governed.
Forming the Union of
South Africa, a feder-
ation of self-governed
provinces.
Crown Colony.
Administered by Chartered
Company.
Protectorate.
GOVKRNMBNT REPRESENTATIVE.
Lord Hardinge, G.M.S.I., G.M.I.B., Viceroy and
Governor General.
Col. Sir H. E. McCallum, K.E., G.C.M.G., Governor.
Earl Grey, C.M.G., Governor General.
Sir R. C. Williams, K.C.M.G.. Governor.
Col. Sir Eric .Tohn Eagles Swayne, K.C.M.G.
Governor. "
Sir F. Mitchell Hodgson, K.C.M.G., Governor.
>Earl of Dudley, G.C.M.G., Governor General.
Lord Islington, K.C.JI.G., Governor.
Viscount Gladstone, G.C.M.G., Governor General.
Of the smaller possessions the West Indies,
including Bahamas, Jamaica, Windward Islands
Leeward Islands, Barbadoes, Trinidad, and
Tobago, are Crown Colonies. In West Africa,
Gambia, Sierra Leone, the Gold Coast are Crown
Colonies. Northern Nigeria is a Protectorate,
and Southern Nigeria a Crown colony and Pro-
tectorate. In East Africa we have the East
Africa Protectorate, Uganda, Zanzibar, Nyassa-
land Protectorate, and SomaU Coast Protec-
torate. Gibraltar, the Maltese Islands, and
Cyprus in the Mediterranean are Crown Colonies.
In the Atlantic Ocean, the Bermuda Islands
have a representative government. St. Helena,
Tristan da Cunha, Falkland Islands, and South
Georgia are Crown Colonics. Ascension Island
is governed by the Board of Admiralty. Our
possessions in the Indian Ocean include Aden,
the Straits Settlements, the Federated Malay
States, and several groups of islands. In the
Pacific Ocean the British possessions include
British Borneo, Hong-Kong, and several island
groups.
The self-governed colonies possess legislative
assemblies, the members of which are elected by
the colonists. The Governor is appointed by
the Crown, and is the only official coatroUed
by the Home Government. Crown Colonies are
under the direct control of the Imperial Govern-
ment, and the administration is carried on by
governors and officials appointed by the Home
authorities. Dependencies are subject to the
Government of the colony to which they are
subordinate, and are administered by officials
appointed by such Government. Protectorates
retain a considerable measiu-e of internal inHe-
pcndonce, under the general influence and
direction of British officers, but in their extei-nal
relations they are completely under British
control.
EMPIRE DAY- 24th MAY
On the 24th of May, 1904, a meeting was held
in St. James's Hall, London, to establish an
Empire Day Festival. Previous to this an
Empire Day had been observed as a legal
holiday in the Dominion of Canada. Under the
name of " Victoria Day " it had been legaHsod
in Natal, Barbadoes, Jamaica, and the Straits
Settlements; under the name of "Empress
Day " in India, and under the name of " Empire
Day " in New Zealand and Newfoundland, but
the first Imperial Celebration was held in May
1904. The day chosen is the birthday of oiir
late Queen Victoria, and its aim and object is
to develop those bonds of friendly feeling and
imperial sentiment which could never be em-
bodied in any treaty or commercial agreement,
and to train the rising generation m patriotism
and their responsibility towards others.
The great supporter of the movement in
Great Britain is the Earl of Meath, who has taken
considerable pains to explain the proposal, and
to enlist the support of the Home Government
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
709
and that of the British colonies. The " League
of the Empire " has done much to forward the
estabhshment of an Empire Day Festival in all
the schools of Great Britain by promoting co-
operation between the different colonies in
educational affairs. The movement has spread
with wonderful rapidity, and the 24th of JMay
is now looked upon throughout the Empire as
the birthday of the Empire, and is celebrated as
such.
HINTS TO AUTHORS
PREPARATION OF MSS.
The printer's charges for Author's corrections
are frequently the cause of great annoyance
and dispute, but if the following rules are cari'ied
out in preparing the MSS., a considerable amount,
if not all, of this annoyance may be prevented.
Use large post quarto or foolscap quarto, as
this is the most convenient size of paper for the
printer to work from.
Have the paper ruled with lines wide apart
to allow of alterations being made distinctly ;
or a good plan is to have the Unes rather close
together, and write on every other line.
Have a 'nade margin on left-hand side for in-
structions to printer, &c.
When making alterations, strike out the part
to be altered and re-write above it. If a long
piece is to be altered, it is well to strike out tlio
old part and say, " See (A)," and re-write on a
separate sheet, marking the new part "To go
at (A), sheet. ..."
Number the sheets as you go along.
Write on one side of the paper only.
Do not crowd a number of lines at foot of a
sheet after the last ruled Jne. Start a fresh
sheet if only for two or three hnes.
Write as plainly as possible, giving special
attention to proper names,foreign words, &c.,and
all words that the compositor may easily mistake.
Typewritten copy is the most easily read.
Give full instructions to the printer as to type
to be used, and the marks you use for liis guidance
{e.g. sot in minion, words underlined to be in
italics, those doubly underlined in clarendon).
Tlus should be put on the first sheet of every
portion of copy sent. It is best to write all
instructions in red ink.
Put extracts quoted from other works in the
next size smaller type.
Remember that the compositor will follow
your punctuation, use of capitals, spelling (of
words that are spelt in two different ways, as
almanack, &c.), unless you instruct him other-
wise.
Fasten the sheets together, being careful that
they are all there and in order.
Mark distinctly on the MS., or " copy," what
it is for and by whom sent. Also give instruc-
tions where the proofs are to be sent when ready.
PRINTERS' TECHNICAL TERMS
Broadside. - A sheet of paper not folded, but
pri'.ted as one page the whole size of the sheet.
Composing. - Setting up the type ready for
printing. The mechanic who does this is called
a Compositor.
Distributing. - Breaking up the type after the
printing is done and returning each type to its
proper box. Tliis takes about half as long to
do as the composing.
Folio. - The nimiber of a page. The size of a
sheet of paper folded once, making two leaves or
four pages.
Forme. - When the make-up is complete, a
number of pages (generally sixteen or some
multiple of sixteen) are brought together and
locked up into one complete, rigid piece, ready
to place on the machine. This is known as a
Forme, and from this the actual printing is done.
Fount. - ^A batch of type of the same size with
the proper proportions of the different letters,
&c. {i.e. so many a's, so many b's, &c.).
Headline. - The top Kne of a page, usually con-
taining the title of the book or chapter, and the
folio.
Imposing. - ^Arranging the pages on the
machine so that when printed and the sheet is
folded the pages will come in proper sequence.
Imprint. - The name of the printer or pubUsher,
or both, at the end of the publication and on the
title page.
Inset. - Pages that are sometimes printed as
alterations or additions, after a publication has
been printed, and inserted during the binding
operations.
Make-up. - Wlien the whole of the matter for
a publication has been set up into tj'pe, it has
to be arranged into pages. Tliis is called the
make-up, and is done by the author and sent to
the printer.
Octavo (8vo). - Denotes a sheet of paper folded
three times, making eight leaves or sixteen
pages.
Proof. - When the author's copy has been set
up into type, a proof is printed from the type
and sent to the author. This proof is corrected
by the author and returned to the printer, who
makes the corrections and sends a revised proof
to the author. If necessary, this pi-ooess is gone
through again (there rnay be second and tlurd
revised proofs), but when the author is finally
satisfied with the proof he marks it press, anil
this is the press proof from which the publication
is printed.
Quarto (4to). - Denotes a sheet of paper folded
twice, making four leaves or eight pages.
Register. - The printer has to put the type for
the different pages on the machine in the exact
710
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
position that they should print on the sheet, and
in such a way that the pages on the opposite
sides of the slieet should exactly back one
another. This is called the Register.
Set off. - Sheets that are just printed some-
times come in contact with other sheets, and the
wet ink makes an impression on these other
sheets. This is called a set off.
Signature. - A sign (usually a letter or figure)
iin the first page of each sheet to show the binder
tlio sequence of the sheets.
Stet. - ^If any part of a manuscript or proof is
struck out by mistake, the word stet placed
against it shows that the part struck out should
stand.
SIZES OP TYPE
The size of a type is the depth of the type and
gives the number of lines that can be got on a
page. Each size, however, is made with what
is known as a different " face," i.e. the letters
are of different widths, and therefore one style
of any size of typo will give more words to a line
than another style of the same size.
The examples given in the opposite column
are all of the same " face."
The name of a type is its size, and each size
has at least three different styles ; these are
" Roman," " Clarendon," and " Italics," and
each of these three has its Large Capitals and
Small Capitals. The " Roman " is the ordinary
typo, the others being used to emphasise any
words or sentences.
Excepting the last four, the examples given
in the following column are *' Roman," the first
letter " T " being a Large Capital. The last
three examples show the Roman Small Capitals,
Clarendon, and Italics of Minion type.
There are various stylos for headings and titles,
but it is better to arrange these with the printer
from what he has in stock or can obtain.
The Typewriting Typo is an imitation of type-
writing copy and is used for Circular Letters, &c.
Printers measure the length of a line by the
number of ems that the line \\nll take. Although
the typos vary in width it may bo taken that
4J ems of Groat Primer . . . . = 1 inch.
5i
6
7
H
^
12
17i
English
Pica . .
Small Pica .
Long Primer
Brevier
Nonpareil
Diamond
It can also be reckoned that
One line of Double Pica = 2 lines of Small Pica.
" Great Primer = " Bourgeois.
" English = " Minion.
" Pica = " Nonpareil.
" Long Primer = " Pearl.
" Bourgeois = " Diamond.
Diamond.
Pearl.
nie sixe of a typo gives the number
o( lines that iviii lie got on :i page.
Nonpareil.
The size of a type tcivcs the number
of lines tliat can be got on a page.
Minion.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
Brevier.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
BOXTROEOIS.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
Long Primer.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
Small Pica.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
Pica.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
English.
The size of a type gives the
number of lines that can be
Great Primer.
The size of a type gives
the number of lines that
Double Pica.
The size of a type
gives the number of
TrpEWBiTiNa Type.
size of a type gives
of lines that
The
the number
MmioN Small Caps.
The size of a type give.s the number
ok lines that can be got on a page.
MiNioN Clarendon.
The size of a type gives the number
of lines that can be got on a page.
Minion Italics.
The nize of (ttype gives the number
of lines thatran i>e got on a page.
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES 711
HOW TO BIARB A PROOF FOB CORRECTION.
C) 1. OATMEAL is to ^o- many people indigestible, verv/though ndtirishlag "jfe
2. if it can be digested
t^/r^u/i Cuft4 3. OATMEAL water is made by placing a han'pful of Oatmeal In & I 6) _
jjr: ^ 4. muslin bag ancyaliowin;; it *n soalj^n a gallon of wat"r^and then boiling / y^y- ^z-jt, 'n Mcc "-J^'.^^ ^№^ twenty minutes. Th^upper^portion^is/then/ pouredAjff^gently. * -CC/
y ^ - ' o- OBESlTY^iiterally^on account of eating "^is t) / /) /. 7. an undue accumulation of fat in the body, thefeauses of obesity vary; A^ ^ CXco^
V ;i:l ^- heredity is respor^ble/ in some cases, butunsuitahlej -^c^^^V <7?v
^/ 9. 'diet in most cases. The anjl^mie shop-girl "!■ drnper'a aiFiotanK who^e^ ^
"^ Ua\0. mid-day meal is Cja and bu/is instead of/ meat, is often fat. Many / j^ p >y,
d 11. Qother examples will occur to the reader. //oPH TH A LMIA'^. In- ^-7? O ' '^^-^^^^
€/ 12. flammation of the inner surfac^of the eyelids. (See Eye.) ^tittf.^^
■^ilC' l^. OPIUM is the dried t*ti">" of the white poppy. iTTontains resin, and
THE ABOVE PROOF AFTER CORRECTION.
OAT.MEAL IS to many people indigestible, though very nourishing if
it can be digested.
OAT.MEAL WATER is made by placing a handful of oatmeal in a muslin
bng and allowing it to soik in a g.allon of water for an hour and thea
boiling for twenty minutes. The upper portion is then poured off gently.
OBESITY, literally " on account of eating "-is the term u.sed to denote
an undue accumulation of fat in the body. The causes of obesity vary;
heredity is responsible in some cases, but unsuitable diet in most cases.
The ansemic shop-girl, who.se mid-day meal is tea and buns instead of
meat, is often fat. Many other examples will occur to the reader.
OPHTHALMIA. Inflammation of the inner surface of the eyelids.
(See Evi.)
OPIUM is t..e dried juice of the white poppy. It contains morphine.
'codeine, resin, and other bodies.
Inj:opy. InMar|n. E..p,a,iation. j:,, Lines
/
7 ^^elctPoromit the words or letters. Ac, struck out , , 18 9 10
:^?H-x^ ^"> Put words underlined in small capit^xl letters * * 'q '
=^^ Divide the words
capital letters 3
X i^ Equalize the spaces shown \ ', '. \ 5
/y Insert the words or letters, &c., .shown in the nwrgin .* .* 4, 6 12
^ "V Insert invertcd-comnns or asterisk, &c., where shown '&'
/ A Take out bad letter and replace with good one ... . 7
^^ <^o>"rcct word pi' letter, A-c, as shown in margin ........ \ \ 6,9
< Q The full-stop 13 shown in a circle II
;^^ '^31^ Close up ._
'/ ^ Wrong fount, i.e. a wong-eized type is used and must be altered 10
'- CZT C Bring the word or letter, &c., to where showa , n
- /~* ^y Transpose , ' * .
: - <7^ Reverse letter .'.., •••
/ t5.o. I>ower case, i.e., use small letters, not capitals 5
/ .■^<.^a.cfc"'^'^e if there is too much (or too little) space between these lines 6.0,10,11
- "Cof^v Letter underlined should be a capital '7'
, C^^x/ty Put words underlined in clarendon type- 7
c:f? •to^^v- ctW Continue in the same lino ^ gg
II Tt^.P. This word should start a new paragraph 11
;^ Jt:vCic^ Put words underlined in italics .№ '.'.'.'.', 1"
V"" 'O'CvC^ ^№ "№*' №'"'* the parts struck out j.t
When the ends of the linos are uneven, draw Ilr.cs .as shown on right hand mf.xyihx,
U th|^ is not room opposite the line, in the margin, a correction can be p-t
• anywhere, but & liae must Uc drawn from the error to the correction . . 13
712
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
MEANING OF GIRLS' CHRISTIAN NAMES
H = Hebrew. G = Greek
father's delight,
Abigail (H.),
exultation.
Ada or Adah (H.), ornament,
happiness.
Adelaide (H.), noble maiden.
Agatha (G.), good.
Agnes (L.), a lamb, pure, chaste.
Aileen or Eileen (G.), hght.
Alice (T.), noble.
Alexandra (G.), a helper of men.
Amelia (T.), industrious, ener-
getic.
Amy (L.), beloved.
Angelina (G.), angehc.
Anna, Anne, Annie (B..), grace,
mercy.
Augusta (L.), majestic.
Aurora (L.), dawn.
Barbara (G.), foreign, strange.
Beatrice (L.), making happy.
Bella (L.), beautiful.
Belinda (L.), charming, a serpent.
Bertha (T.), bright.
Blanche (F.), white, fair.
Bessie, from " beth" in Elizabeth.
Caroline, Carlotta, Charlotte, fem.
of Carolus (L.), for Charles,
noble spirited.
Catherine (G.), pure.
Charity (G.), love.
Christabel (G.), following Christ.
Christine, Christiana, fem. of
Christian.
Clara (L.), clear, bright.
Clarissa (L.), most bright.
Claudia (L.), lame.
Constance, fem. of Constantine.
Cora (G.), a maiden.
Cordelia (K.), a sea-jewel.
Cornelia (L.), horn.
Daphne (G.), a laurel tree.
Deborah (H.), a bee.
Denise (G.), a reveller.
Diana (L.), a goddess ; the
moon.
Dinah (H.), judged.
L = Latin. K = Keltic. T = Teutonic.
Laura (L.), bay, laurel.
Lilian (L.), a Uly.
Lucy (L.), bright, shining.
Madeline, form of Magdalen.
Magdalen (H.), of ]Magdala.
Margaret, Margery (G.), a pearl.
Martha (H.), a lady.
Mary, Maria, Marian (H.), a fori
of Miriam, that is, bitterness.
Mildred (T.), mild in counsel.
Miranda (L.), one to be admirec
Nancy, form of Annie.
Naomi (H.), pleasant.
Octavia (L.), eighth.
Olive, Olivia (L.), ohve, peace.
Paulina, Pauline, httle.
Phoebe (G.), hght.
Phyllis (G.), fohage, a dish
herbs.
Priscilla (L.), ancient.
Psyche (G.), the soul.
Rachel (H.), a ewe-lamb.
Rhoda (G.), arose.
Rosa, Rosalie (L.), a rose.
Rosabella (L.), a lovely rose.
Ruth (H.), a friend.
Sara, Sarah (H.), a princess.
Selina (G.), the moon.
Septima (L.), seventh.
Sibylla (G.), a prophetess.
Sophia (G.), wisdom.
Stella (L.), a star.
Susan, Susannah (H.), a hly.
Theodora (G.), gift of God.
Theresa, a gleaner.
Una (L.), one.
Ursula (L.), a httle bear.
Vera (L.), true.
Victoria (L.), victory, success.
Viola, Violet (L.), a violet.
Virginia (L.), maidenly, chaste.
Wilhelmina (T.), a defender.
Winifred (T.), winning, peace.
Zoe (G.), life or lively.
Dora (G.), a gift.
Dorcas (G.), a gazelle.
Dorothea, Dorothy (G.), the gift
of God.
EUzabeth, oath (solemn promise)
of God.
Ellen, a form of Helen.
Emily, a form of Ajnelia.
Eric (T.), kingly.
Estelle, star.
Esther (H.), a star.
Ethel (T.), noble.
Euphemia (G.), well spoken of.
Eva, Eve (H.), hfe.
Evangeline, a bearer of good news.
Eveline, short form of Evangeline.
Felicia, happy.
Flora (L.), flower.
Florence (L.), flourishing, bloom-
ing.
Frances (T.), free woman.
Frederica (T.), peaceable.
Georgina (G.), a rustic.
Geraldhie, skilful with the spear.
Gladys (K.), a fair maiden.
Grace (L.), favour.
Gwendolen, Gwendaline,
white bow, new moon.
Hannah (H.), grace.
Harriet, ruler of the homo.
Helen, Helena (G.), torch,
brand.
Henrietta (T.), home ruler.
Hilda (T. ), warrior maiden.
Hortensia (L.), fond of gardening.
Irene (G.), peace.
Isabella, fair Eliza.
Jane, from Genoa.
Janet, Janette, httle Jane.
Jemima (H.), a dove.
Joan, Joanna, Johanna, the Lord
graciously gave.
Josephine, may Ho add.
Kate, Katharine, Kathleen (G.),
pure.
I Laetitia (L.), joy, gladness.
(K.),
fire-
MEANING OF BOYS' CHRISTIAN
H= Hebrew. G = Greek. L= Latin. K= Keltic.
Aaron (H.), lofty, inspired.
Abijah (H.), one to whom God is
a father.
Abraham (H.), great father.
Absalom (H.), father of peace.
Adolphus (T.), noble wolf.
Alan or Allan (K.), harmony.
Alexander (G.), a helper of men.
Alfred (T.), all peace.
Algernon, with a beard.
Ambrose (G.), immortal.
Amos (H.), one who bears i
burden.
Andrew (G.), a man.
NAMES
T = Teutonic.
Anthony (L.), worthy of praise.
Archibald (T.), brave and bold.
Arnold (T.), strong and swift.
Arthur (K.), of high birth.
Athelstan (T.), stone of honour.
Augusttn, Austin, Augustus (L.),
majestic, imperial.
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
713
MEANING OF BOYS' CHRISTIAN JiAfllES- Continued.
Baldwin (T.), bold in battle.
Barnabas (H.)> son of a prophet.
Bartholomew (H.), a friend.
Basil (G.), royal, kingly.
Bede (T.), a prayer.
Benedict (L.), blessed.
Benjamin (H.), son of the right
hand.
Bertram (T.), fair, illustrious.
Boniface (L.), a benefactor.
Caesar (L.), with much hair,
blue-eyed.
Caleb (H.), a dog.
Cecil (L.), with dim sight.
Charles (T.), a man, noble spirit.
Christian (L.), a follower of
Christ. ,
Christopher (G.), bearing Christ.
Clarence (L.), illustrious.
Claude, Claudius (L.), lame.
Clement (L.), mild, gentle.
Conrad (T.), resolute, bold in
counsel.
Constant, Constantine (L.), firm,
steady.
Cornelia (L.), horn.
Cuthbert, known to fame.
Cyril (G.), lordly.
Daniel (H.), God is judge.
David (H.), beloved.
Denis (from Dionysius), the God
of wine.
Donald (K.), proud chief.
Douglas (K.), dark, grey.
Duncan (K.), a dark-com-
plexioned chief.
Ebonezer (H.), stone of help.
Edgar, happy in honour.
Edmund, rich protection.
Edward, defender of property.
Edwin, a winner of possessions,
rich.
Egbert (T.), bright eye.
Eldred, fierce in battle.
Eleazar (H.), helped by God.
Erasmus (G.), worthy of love.
Eric (T.), kingly.
Ernest (G.), earnest.
Eugene (G.), well born.
Eustace (G.), strong, healthy.
Evan, Welsh for John.
Everard (T.), brave, strong as a
boar.
Felix (L.), happy.
Ferdinand (T.), brave, valiant.
Francis, Frank (T. ), free.
Frederic, Frederick (T.), peaceful
ruler.
Gabriel (H.), hero of God.
George (G.), a farmer, a rustic.
Gerald (T.), skilful with the spear,
Geoffrey, same as Godfrey.
Gilbert (T.), bright as gold.
Godfrey (T.), God's peace.
Godwin (T.), good in battle.
Godwin, fortunate in war.
Gregory (G.), watchful.
Griffith, ruddy.
Guy (G.), good sense, a leader.
Harold, leader of men.
Harry (T.), ruler of the house.
Hector, brave defender.
Henry (T.), see Harry.
Herbert (T.), a bright warrior.
Honor (L.), honour.
Horace, Horatio (L.), worthy
behold.
Hubert (T.), bright in spirit.
Hugh (T.), high, lofty.
Humphrey, support of peace.
Ivan, Russian for John.
Jacob (H.), a supplanter.
James, Jacques, see Jacob.
John (H.), the Lord graciously
gave.
Jonathan (H.), the Lord hath
given.
Joseph (H.), may He add.
Joshua (H.), a Saviour.
Justin (L.), just.
Kenneth (K.), a leader.
Lambert, endowed with land.
Lancelot, little warrior.
Laurence, Lawrence (L.), crowned
with laurels.
Leonard (T.), brave as a lion.
Lewis, Louis (T.), brave in battle.
Lionel (L.), a Httle lion.
Llewellyn (K.), lightning.
Lucius, Luke (L.), bright, shining.
Marcus, Mark (L.), a hammer.
Martin (L.), martial.
Matthew (H.), gift of the Lord.
Maurice, dark in colour, Moorish.
Michael (H.), who is like God.
Nathan (H.), He hath given.
Nathaniel (H.), God hath given.
Nicolas (G.), victorious.
Noel, relating to Christmas.
Norman (T.), a northman, or
from Normandy.
Octavus (L.), eighth.
Oliver (L.), olive, peace.
Patrick (L.), of noble birth.
Paul (L.), Httle.
Peter (G.), a rock.
Philip (G.), a lover of horses.
Ralph, Rodolph (T.), hero of
renown, or wolf.
Reginald (T.), powerful ruler.
Richard (T.), stern king.
Robert (T.), famous in counsel.
Roger (T.), powerful, able in
counsel.
Roland, Rowland (T.), famous.
Rupert, same as Robert.
Samson (H.), sunny.
Samuel (H.), asked of God.
Saul (H.), asked for.
Sebastian (G.), to be reverenced.
Septimus (L.), seventh.
Sidney, a conqueror.
Silas, short for Silvanus (L.),
sylvan.
Simon, Simeon (H.), famous.
Solomon (H.), peaceful.
Stephen (G.), a crowm.
Theodore (G.), gift of God.
Theophilus (G.), a lover of God.
Thomas (H.), a twin.
Timothy (G.), one who fears God.
Tristram (L.), grave, sad.
Uriah (H.), the Lord is light.
Valentine (L.), strong, healthy.
Valeria (L.), a sort of eagle.
Victor (L.), a conqueror.
Vincent (L.), conquering.
Walter (T.), a leader.
Wilfred, strong and peaceful.
William (T.), a defender.
714
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
RELATIVE HEIGHT (1) OF MEN, (2) OF WOMEN
A glanoe at the table below will give a fair idea of what people's weight should be in proportion
to their height. The average man or woman grows stouter with advancing years, and slimness is
becoming to the young, but to be well-proportioned the fully -developed man or woman should con-
form to the following standard : -
MEN
Five feet two inches
Five feet three inches
Five feet four inches
Five feet five inches
Five feet six inches
Five feet seven inches
Five feet eight inches
Five feet nine inches
Five feet ten inches
Five feet eleven inches
Six feet ....
WOMEN
stones.
Pour
Five feet
about 7
5
Five feet one inch . .
" 7
10
Five feet two inches
" 8
0
Five feet three inches .
.. 8
7
Five feet four inches
.. 9
0
Five feet five inches
" 9
7
Five feet six inches
" 9
13
Five feot seven inches .
. " 10
6
Five feet eight inches .
. ,. 10
12
Five feet nine inches .
" 11
2
Stones.
Pounds
about 9
0
" 9
7
" 9
13
" 10
2
" 10
5
" 10
8
" 11
1
" 11
7
" 12
1
" 12
6
" 12
10
POSTAL INFORMATION
INLAND RATES OF POSTAGE
{United Kingdom, Channel Islands, Orkney,
Shetland, and Scilly Isles)
LETTERS
Not exceeding 4 oz. in weight. Id. ; for every
additional 2 oz., ^d.
Double postage will bo charged on delivery for
letters posted unpaid, and double the deficiency
for letters not sufficiently paid.
Letters may not exceed two feet in length or
one foot in width or depth, excepting those to
or from a Government Office.
LATE FEE LETTERS
To catch the night mails, inland letters for
the country and abroad must be posted in
London before 6 o'clock, and in suburban places
from half-an-hour to an hour and a half earlier.
If, however, an extra ^d. be affixed to the letter,
it will be forwarded by the night mails when
posted after that hour. The late fee posting
time is 7 p.m. at most town branch offices ; 7.30
at General Post Office, and 7.45 at Mount
Pleasant. Letters bearing an extra id. stamp
may also be posted in the letter-boxes affixed
to all mail trains to which sorting carriages are
attached.
RE-DIRECTION OF LETTERS, &c.
No charge is made for the re-direction of letters,
halfpenny packets, post-cards and newspapers,
provided they are re-posted not later than the
day after delivery (Sundays and public holidays
not counted), and that they do not appear to
have been opened or tampered with.
Re-directed registered letters must not be
dropped into a letter-box, but must be taken
to a post-office to be dealt with as registered.
No additional postage or registering fee will
be charged, provided they are presented for re-
registration not later than the day after delivery.
Re-diroctod parcels are liable to additional
postage at the prepaid rate for each re-direc-
tion, except in those cases where the original
corrected addresses are both within a delivery
from the same post-office.
Letters, &c., will not be officially re-directe^J
for a person leaving home temporarily, unless the
house be left uninhabited, nor will they bo re-
directed when addressed to Clubs, Hotels,
Boarding-houses, or Lodgings.
NOTICE OF REMOVAL
Notices of removal and applications for letters,
(fee., to be re-directcd by the Post Office authori-
ties must be duly signed by the persons to whom
the letters are addressed. Printed forms can
be obtained from the post offices, and when filled
up and signed should bo given to the postmaster
or to the postman. Separate notices must be
filled up for parcels and telegrams. The Post
Office will continue to redirect letters, &c., for
a period of one year, but the time may be ex-
tended, if desired, on payment of Is.
POSTE RESTANTE
Letters, "&c., addressed to a Poste Restanto,
to be called for, are retained for one month. If
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
715
not called for by the end of that time they are
sent to the Returned Letter Office to be disposed
of. If, however, a letter be addressed to a post
office at a seaport town for a person on board a
ship bound for that port, it is kept two months.
The Poste Restante is only intended for the
accommodation of strangers or travellers who
have no permanent abode in the town.
Persons applying for Poste Restante letters
or parcels should be able to produce some proof
of identity. Foreigners should produce their
passports.
REGISTRATION OF LETTERS AND PARCELS
The ordinary registration fee for each inland
letter, parcel, or other postal packet is 2d., in
addition to the postage. The payment of this
fee secures compensation in the event of loss or
damage up to £5. Compensation up to a limit of
£400 may be obtained on the following scale :
Fee of 2d., compensation £5 ; 3d., £20 ; and
after tliis every additional penny on the fee adds
£20 to the amount of compensation, up to the
limit of £400.
Registered letters must be handed to an agent
of the Post O^co, and a receipt obtained. They
miist not be posted in a letter-box.
Letters containing money must be posted in
an envelope supplied for registered letters by
the Post Office.
EXPRESS DELIVERY OF LETTERS AND
PARCELS
There are three systems for the special delivery
of letters and parcels : -
1. By special messenger the entire distance, for
which the charge is 3d. per mile, or part of a
mile (ordinary postage is not charged). Special
charges are made where the packet is hea\'y or
bulky, and for long distances whero no ordinary
public conveyance is available. Thi^ is the
quickest service, and letters, &c., for Express
Delivery are accepted at all the more important
post offices. They must bear the word " Ex-
press " in the top left-hand corner of the cover.
2. By special messenger after transmission by
post. By this system letters and parcels are
forwarded in the regular course of post, and on
arrival at the office of delivery are sent out by
Express Messenger. The charge is 3d. per mile,
or part of a mile, from the office of delivery, in
addition to the ordinary postage. There are
special charges as in system No. I.
3. By special delivery in advance of the ordinary
delivery. Any persons wishing to receive their
letters, &c., in advance of the ordinary delivery
may have -fhem delivered by special messenger
on payment of 3d. per mile for one packet, and
a further charge of Id. for every ten, or less,
additional packets.
HALFPENNY PACKETS
Printed or written matter not in the nature of
a letter may be transmitted by the halfpenny
packet post. Tho packet must not exceed 2 oz.
in weight, and the regulation size is the same
as that of letters.
Rules Concerning Halfpenny Packets. - A half-
penny packet must be posted without a cover,
or in an unfastened envelope, or cover which can
be easily removed to allow of examination. It
may be tied ■with string for security. It must not
contain any communication in the nature of a
letter. Should any of these regulations not be
complied with, the packet will be treated as a
letter. If posted unpaid, double postage will be
charged.
NEWSPAPERS
The postage is id. for every registered daily or
weekly newspaper, whether posted singly or with
others in a packet. The newspaper must be
posted without a cover, or in a cover open at
both ends, and must be folded in such a way as
to show the title. Nothing in the natm-e of a
letter must be enclosed, but the name and address
of the sender may be written on the wrapper, a
request for return in case of non-delivery, and a
reference to any page in the newspaper to which
the sender wishes to call attention.
PARCEL POST
Not over 1 lb.
. 3d.
Not over 8 lbs. .
. 8d
" " 2 lbs.
. 4d.
" " 9 lbs. .
. 9d
" " 3 lbs.
. 5d.
" " 10 lbs. .
. lOd
,, " 5 lbs.
. 6d.
" " nibs. .
. lid
,. " 7 lbs.
. . 7d.
Regulations. - No parcel may exceed 11 lbs.
in weight, 3 feet 6 inches in length, or 6 feet in
length and girth combined. Parcels must not
be posted in a letter-box, but must be handed
over the counter of a post office, or given to a
rural postman, and the postage must be prepaid
by postage stamps affixed by the sender. The
words " Parcel Post " should be -wTitten in the
left-hand corner above the address. The sender's
name should be on the cover or inside the parcel.
A certificate of the posting of a parcel may be
obtained at the time, if so desired.
FOREIGN AND COLONIAL
POSTAGE RATES
LETTERS
From the United Kingdom (1) to British
Possessions generally and to Eygpt, the United
States of America, and tho places in Jlorocco
where there are British Post Office Agencies the
rate of postage is Id. per ounce ; and (2) to
all other countries it is 2Jd. for the first oimce.
716
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
and 1^ for ectch succeeding ovince or fraction
thereof.
REPLY COUPONS
Coupons exchangeable for stamps of the
value of 25 centimes (2M.) each in any country
participating in the arrangement can be pur-
chased at any Money Order Office in this country
at the price of 3d. each for the purpose of pre-
paying replies to letters. The coupons can be
exchanged by the addressees of such letters at
the post office of the place of destination for
local postage stamps.
Coupons received from other countries may
be exchanged for postage stamps at any Money
Order Office in the United Kingdom.
POST-CARDS
Official post-cards are transmissible to all parts
of the world. Id. single, 2d. reply. Inland post-
cards may also be used, provided the additional
postage is supplied by means of postage stamps.
Private post-cai'ds may be sent abroad if they
are of the same size and substance as the official
cards and have the words " Post Card " printed
or written on the address side. Plain cards
without any inscription cannot be sent abroad
86 post-cards.
A post-card from a place abroad, if unpaid,
is chargeable with a postage of 2d. ; and if parti-
ally paid, with double the deficient postage.
PRINTED PAPERS AND SAMPLES
Printed Papers comprise newspapers, books
(stitched or bound), periodical works, pamphlets,
sheets of music, proofs of printing, plans, maps,
engravings, photographs, &c. Printers' proofs,
corrected or not, and the corresponding manu-
scripts when included in the same package, are
admitted as " printed papers," but not the
products of the copying press and typewriter.
The rate of postage on printed papers for all
places abroad is ^d. per 2 oz., and on commercial
papers is 2Jd. for the first 10 oz., and ^d. per
2 oz. thereafter.
Packets must be posted without a cover, or
in an ordinary envelope left entirely unfastened,
or in a cover wholly open at both ends. To
ensure the safety of the contents, however, the
ends of the packet may be tied with string, but
it must be easy to unfasten.
Packets must be prepaid ; if wholly unpaid
the packets will be stopped ; if not fully prepaid,
double the deficiency will bo charged on delivery.
Canadian Magazine Post. - The postage rate
on British Newspapers, Magazines, and Trade
Journals intended for Canada is Id. per lb. ; on
packets not exceeding 2 oz. it is Jd. Such
packets must be posted in covers open at both
ends and easily removable.
Sample Post. - The rate of postage for all
places abroad is Id. for the first 4 oz. and id.
per 2 oz, thereafter. Packets containing goods
for sale, or articles sent by one private individual
to another, cannot be f orM'arded by Sample Post.
Samples must be sent in such a manner as to
be easy of examination and, when practicable,
must be sent in covers open at the end. In
order to secure the return of packets which
cannot be delivered, the names and addresses
of the senders should be printed or written
outside.
FOREIGN AND COLONIAL PARCEL POST
The rules and regulations for foreign and
colonial parcels are similar to the rules for inland
parcels, but the sender of each parcel must make
a declaration as to its contents for Customs
purposes. This declaration must be made on a
form provided by the Post Office for the purpose.
The sender can prepay all charges to certain
countries and places by paying a fee of 6d., sign-
ing an undertaking to pay on demand the amount
due, and making a ^deposit of Is. for each 10s.
and fraction of 10s. of the value of the parcel
(to Canada and U.S.A. Is. for each 4s. with a
minimum deposit of 5s.), otherwise the Customs
and other charges must be paid by the addi'essee.
The size hmit to some places abroad diSers from
that for inland parcels. All parcels must have
the fastenings and knots on string carefully
sealed.
The rates for postage and also for insurance
can be obtained at any post office.
CASH ON DELIVERY
Arrangements have now been made whereby
the senders of postal packets exchanged be
tween the United Kingdom and certain British
Possessions and Egypt can have the value of
the contents collected from the recipients and
remitted to them by money order or postal
order. '
MONEY ORDERS
INLAND
At every Money Order Office Money Orders
can be obtained between the hours of 8 a.m. and
8 P.M. The poundage for these orders is : -
For sums not exceeding
£1 £3 £10 £20 £30 £40
2d. 3d. 4d. Gd. 8d. lOd.
No order may contain a fractional part of a
penny.
No single Money Order can be issued for more
than £40.
A Money Order may be crossed like a cheque
for payment through a bank.
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
717
TELEGRAPH MONEY ORDERS, INLAND
Money may be transmitted by Telegraph
Money Order from any Money Order Office in the
United Kingdom, whicli is ako a despatching
office for telegrams, and may be made payable
at any Money Order Office which is also an office
for the delivery of telegrams.
The charges for Telegraph Money Orders are
a Money Order poundage at the ordinary rate for
inland Money Orders, with an additional fee of
2d. for each Order and the cost of the official
telegram of advice.
POSTAL ORDERS
Postal Orders are issued and paid at all Money
Order Offices in the United Kingdom during the
ordinary hours of business on week-days, and
in certain British Colonies and places at which
British Postal Agencies are maintained.
Orders may be had for every 6d. up to 19s. 6d. ;
and for 20s. and 21s. Those for 6d. up to 2s. 6d.
cost ^d. each ; after that, up to 15s. the charge
is Id. ; after that, to 21s. the charge is l|d.
By affixing stamps (perforated ones not
allowed), not exceeding 5d. in value nor three in
number, to the face of any one Postal Order, odd
amounts may be made up, but not fractions of
a penny. An Order not cashed within three
months from the last day of the month of issue
will be charged a fresh commission.
FOREIGN AND COLONIAL MONEY ORDERS
For sums not exceeding -
£1 £2 £4 £6 £8 £10
3d. 6d. 9d. Is. Is. 3d. Is. 6d.
and for countries on which Orders may be issued
fop a larger sum than £10 the charge is 3d. for
every additional £2 or portion of £2.
TELEGRAPH MONEY ORDERS
Foreign and Colonial
Telegraph Money Orders may be sent to or
from certain places. The charges for those
issued in tho United Kingdom are the ordinary
foreign and colonial Money Order poundage,
with the addition of a feo of 6d. and cost of
official telegram of advice.
TELEGRAMS
Inland
For the first twelve words, 6d. ; for every
additional word, Jd. Figures are counted at
the rate of five to a word.
Stamps in payment must be affixed by the
sender. The address of the receiver is charged
for, but not that of the sender, if written on tho
back of the tolegi'aph form.
The charge includes delivery, provided the
address be within the Towr Postal limits, or
within three miles of a head office. When the
address is beyond the free delivery limit, a
charge of 3d. for each mile is made, reckoned
from the office door. This charge to be prepaid
by the sender. RepHes not exceeding forty-
eight words in length may be prepaid by the
sender.
Telegraph forms are of two kinds, the A form
(given gratis) wth no stamp ; and the Al form
embossed with a stamp, which may be purchased
singlj', or in a book of twenty, price 10s. 2d.
Any one may register an abbreviated address
on payment of a fee of 21s. per year.
Telegrams re -directed by wire to a second
address are liable to an additional charge.
The usual hours of attendance at Telegraph
Offices on week-days are from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
The usual Sunday attendance in England is from
8 A.M. to 10 A.M. ; in Scotland from 9 a.m. to
10 A.M., and in Ireland from 8.25 a.m. to 10.25
a.m.
A few special offices are always open.
CANCELLING TELEGRAMS
The sender may have liis telegram cancelled,
and if it be cancelled before the commencement
of transmission the sum paid will be returned at
the time, less a fee of 2d. for cancelKng it ; but
if transmission has commenced, the sum will not
be returned. If transmission has been com-
pleted, an official telegram, prepaid by the
sender, will be sent to the Postmaster at the
Terminal Office. If the official telegram should
arrive too late, the sender will be informed that
the attempt to cancel his telegram has ftiiled,
but the sums paid will not be refunded.
FOREIGN AND COLONIAL TELEGRAMS
The following are a few of the charges for the
transmission of telegrams abroad.
[Where more than one price is given, the charge
varies according to the route, or to the part of
the country to which the telegram is sent.]
Rate
per word
s. d.
Aden 2 0
Algeria 0 2.
Argentine Republic
3s. 3d. and 3 7
Australia 2s. 9d. and 3 0
Austria 0 2.
Belgium .... 0 2
Brazil . . , Ss. to 6 5
British Central Africa 2 11
British East Africa
2s. 6d. and 2 9
Canada ... Is. to 3 2
Cape Colony ... 2 6
Ceylon . Is. lid. and 2
China . . 4s. 2d. to 4
Costa Rica .... 4
Denmark .... 0
Egypt . . . Is. to 1
France 0
Germany .... 0
Gibraltar .... 0
Holland .... 0
Hungary .... 0
India . Is. lOtl. to 2
Orange River Colony 2
Portugal .... 0
Rhodesia 2s. 8d. and 2 11
Roumania .... 0 3
Russia 0 4i
Spain . . 3d. and 0 .'>
Sweden ..... 0 3
Switzerland ... 0 Z
Transvaal .... 2 6
Turkey 0 6
United States . Is. to 2 9
1 0
6
4
4
6
0
0
2i
6
3
Special forms are provided for Foreign and Colonial
Telegrams.
718
THE WOMAN'S BOOK
TELEPHONES
The Telephone Trunk Lines which connect the
various Telephone-Exchange areas tliroughout
the country are the property of the Postmeister-
General, and are worked by his officers. The
Trunk lines can be used by callers at Post Offices
wliich are connected with the Trunk Telephone
system as well as by subscribers and callers xising
Telephone Exchanges.
The fees for the use of the Trunk lines are as
follows : -
For 25 miles or under . . . Threepence.
" 60 " " . . . Sixpence.
" 75 " " . . . Ninepence.
" 100 " " . . . One Shilling.
" Every additional 40 miles
or fraction thereof . . Sixpence.
The period of conversation is three minutes
from the time when the caller has been informed
that the connection is completed ; but any
person, by prepaying a double fee, may secure
either the tminterrupted use of a Trunk line for
six minutes, or the option of continuing it at
the end of three minutes. In the latter case the
fee for the second period is refunded when the
call is completed in three minutes. No person is
entitled to use a Trunk line continuously for
more than six minutes.
The charge for a six minutes' conversation
between 7 p.m. and 7 a.m. is the same as for a
conversation of tliree minutes' duration in the
day-time. All sums payable for the use of a
Trunk line must be prepaid. Callers are re-
quired to pay the Call Office fee in addition to the
Trunk fee.
RADIOTELEGRAPHIC SERVICE
Radiotelegrams are accepted at any Telegraph
Office for transmission to ships equipped with
wireless telegraph apparatus through different
coast stations in the United Kingdom or abroad.
The usual charge for a radiotelegram sent
through a British Coast Station is lOJd. a word.
Further particulars can be had at any Telegraph
Office.
TELEPHONE EXCHANGES
The Postmeater-General has Telephone Ex-
changes in London and at a large number of
provincial towns. The rates of subscription in
London for the Ordinary Mesaagc-rate Service
(including one telephone at the subscriber's
premises) are as follows : -
(a) For connection with any Exchange in the
County of London witliin two miles of the sub-
scriber's premises, annual subscription £5.
Message Fees : (1) One penny for each call to
a subscriber on any Exchange in the County
of London. (2) Twopence for each call to a
subscriber on any Exchange outside the County
of London.
(6) For connection with any Exchange miiside
the County of London within two miles of the
subscriber's premises, annual subscription £4.
Message Fees : (1) One penny for each call to
a subscriber on the same Exchange. (2) Two-
pence for each call to a subscriber on any other
Exchange.
N.B. - The minimum yearly amount payable
by each subscriber for Message Fees is 30s.
Any person can use a Call Office in London for
a fee of twopence.
TELEPHONIC DELIVERY OF LETTERS
IN LONDON ON SUNDAYS
A message posted in the provinces or in
London in time to ensure arrival at the General
Post Office, London, on Sunday, can be de-
livered by telephone to a subscriber in the
London Exchange area. For the special con-
ditions inquire at any Telegraph Office.
SENDING TELEGRAMS AND EXPRESS
LETTERS BY TELEPHONE
Any subscriber to a Telephone Exchange may
telephone messages (except those for trans-
mission at Press rate) to many post offices
which can be reached through the local Ex-
change System, or by means of the Post Office
Trunk wires, in order that the message may be
written down and dealt with as telegrams or
express letters or ordinary letters. For special
regulations inquire at any Telegraph Office.
TELEPHONE COMMUNICATION WITH
FRANCE AND BELGIUM
London and certain provincial towns in Eng-
land can communicate by telephone wath Paris,
Brussels, and certain provincial towns in France
and Belgium. The fee is from 8s. to 10s. for a
conversation of tliree minutes, the same condi-
tions and regulations in this case as in that of
ordinary Trunk line conversations.
PROVINCIAL SYSTEM
The Postmaster-General has Telephone Ex-
changes at a large number of provincial towns.
The terms for Telephone Exchange circuits, and
for circuits to post offices for use in connection
with the Telephone Trunk lines, may be ascer-
tained on application to the local post office or
to the Secretary, General Post Office.
MISCELLANEOUS FACTS AND FIGURES
719
GENERAL INFORMATION
THERMOMETER FOREIGN AND COLONIAL MONEY
To convert Centigrade into Fahrenheit, multi-
ply by 9, divide by 5, and add 32 ; Reaumur into
Fahrenheit, multiply by 9, divide by 4, and add
32 ; Fahrenheit into Centigrade, deduct 32,
multiply by 5, and divide by 9 ; Fahrenheit into
R6aum\ir, deduct 32, multiply by 4, and divide
by 9.
Spring commences March 21st and lasts 92
days 21 hours {Vernal Equinox).
Summer commences June 22nd and lasts 93
days 14 hours {Summer Solstice).
Autumn commences September 23rd and lasts
89 days 17| hours {AtUumn Equinox).
Winter commences December 22nd and lasts
89 days 1 hour (Winter Solstice).
The longest day is the 21st of June. The
shortest day is the 21st of December. Two
days in the year are equall}' divided into day and
night, viz., the 21st of March and the 23rd of
September.
Countries.
Argentina . .
Austria-Hungary
Belgium .
Brazil . .
B. Honduras
Bulgaria .
Canada . .
Ceylon . .
Chile . .
China . .
Cuba . .
Denmark .
Egypt . .
Finland
France . ,
Germany .
Greece . .
Holland .
India . .
Italy . .
Japan . .
Mauritius .
Mexico , .
Newfoundland
Norway
Peru
Portugal
Roumania
Russia .
Servia =
Spain .
Straits Settlmnts
Sweden
Switzerland
Turkey . .
United States
Uruguay . .
Chief Coins.
Peso tpaper)*=100centisimos
" Cgold) ,
Krone or Crown = 100 heller
Franc - 100 centimes . .
Milreis (paper) " = 1000 reis
Dollar (gold) =100 cents .
leva = franc = 100 stotinkis
Dollar (gold) = 100 cents .
Rupee = 16 annas . . .
Peso (paper) * = 100 centavos
" (gold) ....
100 candareens=10 mace =
tael of silver (a weight)
Dollar (gold) = 100 cents .
Krone = 100 ore ....
Egyptian £ = lOO piastres
Markka = 100 penni . .
Franc = 100 centimes . .
Mark = ]00 pfennige . .
Drachmfe (paper) *= 100 lepta
Florin or Gulden =100 cents
Rupee = 16 annas . . .
Lira= franc =100 centesimi
Yen = 100 sens ....
Rupee = 16 annas . . .
Dollar (gold) = 100 centavos
Dollar (gold) =100 cents.
Krone = 100 ore ....
Sol = 100 centismos . .
Milreis = 1000 reis . . .
ley = franc=100 banis .
Rouble = 100 copeks . .
Dinar = franc = 100 paras .
Peseta = franc =100 centimes
Dollar (silver) ....
Krone = 100 ore ....
Franc = 100 centimes . .
Turkish £ = 100 piastres .
Dollar (gold) = 100 cents .
Peso (gold) =100 centimes
Approxi-
mate
value in
British
money.
s. d.
1 9
4 0
0 10
0 9i
1 3J
4 1
0 9i
4 1
1 4
0 10
1 6
2 4J
4 1
1 U
20 6J
0 9i
0 9J
0 11}
0 9
1 8
1 4
0 9^
2 OJ
1 4
2 0
4 1
1 li
2 0
3 10}
0 9J
2 li
0 9i
0 8i
2 4
1 IJ
0 9i
18 0
4 1
4 2
* The exchange value of paper money fluctuates consider-
ably in countries where it is not readily convertible, at its
face value, into gold
STANDARD TIME
In Great Britain Greenwich Time is adopted as the Standard Time all over the country. The
same is also adopted over Belgium, Holland, and Spain. In Franco, Paris time (now the same as
Greenwich) is the standard. In countries of great ejrtent it is impossible to adopt one Standard Time
and meridians 15№ apart have been chosen, and each place within 7J№ of these meridians have the
same Standard Time. Thus, Mid Europe (Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy,
and Ser^^a), 1 houi- fast of Greenwich ; East Em-ope (Roumania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Egypt), 2 hours
fast of Gretmwich ; Cape Colony, li hours fae^t ot Greenwich ; Natal, 2 hours fast of Greenwich ;
India, 5^ hours fast of Greenwich ; Burma, Ql hours fast of Greenwich ; Japali, 9 houre fast of Green-
wich ; West Australia, 8 hours fast of Greenwich ; South Australia, 9i hours fast of Greenwich ; New
South Wales, Queensland, Victoria, and Tasmania, 10 hours fast of Greenwich ; New Zealand,
Hi hours fast of Greenwich ; America - Newfoundland 4 hours. Eastern 6 hours, Central 6 hours.
Mountain 7 hours, and Pacific 8 hours slow of Greenwich,
Balls, county, 341 ; etiquette of, 340 ; invita-
tions to, 332 ; pubhc, 341
Bandeaux, 433
Bank of England, the, 369
Bank manageress, how to become, 666 ; notes,
366 ; rate, 369 ; Savings (Post Office), 369
" Bank Return," the, 369
Banking account, how to open, 366 ; hints on,
366-370
Bankruptcy, law of, 370
Barracoat, the, 473
Baseball, game of, 546
Bassinette, baby's, 469 ; cost of, 469 ; how to
trim a, 469
Basting of garments, 388
Bath, baby's, 480 ; child's, 479 ; hip and sponge,
teas, etiquette of, 339
British Empire, administrative government of,
706 ; constitution of, 706
Bronchitis, 568
Bronze, cleaning of, 73
Brooches, how to clean gold, 312
Broth, how to make, 119 ; various kinds of, 120,
121
Bruises, 573
Brushes, care of, 78 ; care of paint, 606 ; hair,
466 ; how to wash, 457
Bugs, extermination of, 79
Building society, 2
Bulbs, cultivation of, 587 ; for garden, 582
Bunion, 568
Buns, how to make, 216 ; rice, 218
Burns, cure of, 574
Business, women in, 665-677
Butler, the, 54
Butter, treatment of, 100
Button-holes, 400
Buttons, how to sew on, 400
Cabbage, cooking of, 150
Cabinet and premier, the, 707
Cages, care of bird, 512
Clothes, care of, 313 ; care of men's, 315 ; clean-
ing of, 316 ; dyeing of, 316 ; horse and puUy,
273 ; ropes, pins and poles, 273 ; storing
away of, 314 ; children's, 495 ; choice of, 451 ;
coloiu" of, 451
Clubs, ladies', 701
Coal gas, 9
Coal, various kinds of, 98
Coats and wraps, 306 ; motoring, 306
Cocoa-nut dropo, how to make, 673 ; slices, 217
Codicils to wills, 375
Coffee caramels, how to make, 673 ; how to
serve, 250 ; pot, 530
Coiffure, the, 458, 460
Coke, use of, 98
Cold in the head, 568
Collars, how to wash, 295 ; of dress, 311
Colleges for girls, 494 ; of cookery, 660
Colonial government, 707 ; outfit, hints on, 664
Colonies and their governors, 708 ; work in the,
663
Combinations, how to iron pair of, 286
Combs, how to wash, 458
Commission agents, 383
Compensation Act, Workmen's, 370
Complexion and skin, the, 448 ; general hints,
451 ; influence of health on, 449 ; " making
up " of, 465 ; use of powder for, 463
Composite drawing, 530
Concussion of brain, 574
Condy's fluid, 464
Consequences, game of, 530
Constipation, 468, 568 ; in children, 484
Construction of house, 3
Consultations, 551
Continent, hohdays on the, 502 ; hotels on, 503 ;
pensions on, 503
Convalescence, 556
Convalescent homes for gentlewomen, 701
Convent education, 494
Conversation, the art of, 352 ; topics for, 352
Convtilsions, treatment for, 484
Cook, the, 48 ; duties of, 49, 50
Cookers, electric, kinds of, 97
Cookery classes, 659 ; guide to, 11 6-235 ;
206
" Customs," inspection by, 506
Cutlery for table, 236
Dadoes, 15
DaffodUs, 588
DahUa, the, 592
Dairy work for women, 664
Damp, cause of , 4
Dances, etiquette of, 340 ; fashionable, 341 ;
invitations to, 332 ; various kinds, 342
Dancing mistress, 689 ; value of art of, 491
Darning, the art of, 408, 410, 412
Deaf, teaching of, 618
Death, 566
Deaths, registration of, 376
Debt, actions for, 370 ; recovery of, 370
D6but of daughter, 495
Decoration of church, 360 ; of houses, 667 ; of
Etiquette, general hints on, 328 ; guide to, 325-
361 ; for visitor, 333 ; in olden times, 326 ;
of eating, 327 ; of introductions, 328 ; of the
table, 327 ; of to-day, 327 ; of visiting, 335 ;
of visiting cards, 329 ; out of doors, 327 ;
wedding, 345 ; when dri\nng, 327
Examinations for teachers, 616
Exchange editor, 625
Excise licences, 384, 385
Exercise, value of, 454
Exercises, chart of, 455 ; physical, 454-456
Executors of will, 375
Eye, cure of black, 574 ; foreign body in, 575
Eyes, care of the, 462
Eyebrows as aids to beauty, 463
Eye-cup, use of the, 463
Eyelashes as aids to beauty, 463
Eyelet holes, 402
Face, the steam bath, 451 ; how to wash the,
449 ; massage of, 450 ; use of powder for,
465
Factory inspectorships, 680
Fainting, 575
Fan fight, the game of, 533
Farmers, women as, 652
Fashion and dress, 301 ; drawing, 688
Fastenings, 400
Feather stitching, 397
Feathers, how to wash, 318 ; sewing on of,
439
" Feeding charts," 477
Feet, care of the, 464
FeUing of garments, 390
Ferns, 599
Fever, hay, 570
Finger, crushed, 573
Fire, conduct on outbreak of, 85
Fire-guard, the, 474
Fireplaces, cleaning of, 64, 65
Fires, how to light, 65
" First Aid," 548-579
Fish cakes, 133 ; calendar of same in season. 111,
112 ; cream, 133 ; curry, 134 ; custard
puddings, 134 ; cutlets, 134 ; how to boil, 130 ;
how to broil, 131 ; how to choose, HI ; how
to clean, 130 ; how to fry, 130 ; how to serve,
248 ; how to skin and fillet, 131 ; how to steam,
130 ; omelet, 134 ; pie (Russian), 139 ; pies,
136 ; puddings, 135 ; rules for cooking, 130 ;
scalloped, 136 ; smoked, 136 ; steamed for
invalids, 558 ; treatment of, 100 ; various
kinds, 131-140
Fixtures, landlord's and tenant's, 380
Flageolets, how to cook, 15'J!
Flannel seams, 393
Flannels, how to wash, 287 ; prevention of
shrinking, 288
Fleas, extermination of, 79
Flies, fcxt-ermination of, 80
Flooring, 18
Floor-cloth, cleaning of, 66, 67 ; coverings, 18
Floors, polished, care of, 66 ; scrubbing of, 66 ;
staining of, 607 ; tiled, care of, 67
Florists, women as, 651
Flowering plants, 600
Flowers for decoration, 253 ; sewing on hats of,
440
Fomentation, laudanum, 566 ; turpentine, 566
Food and health, 452 ; and the kitchen, 87-115 ;
Benger's, 556 ; patients', 556 ; treatment of,
100
Footman, the, 64
Forks, care of, 76
Foreign languages, teaching of, 618
Forfeits, 529
Fortune telling by cards, 538 ; by dominoes, 639
Foundations, 3
Fowl, curried, 177 ; fric"i8s6e of, 176 ; how to
roast a, 175 ; how to serve, 247 ; how to steam
a, 176
Fowls, keeping of, 517-523
Fractures, 576
" Free Lance," the, 627
Fritters, various kinds of, 195
Frock for baby, 473 ; the yoke, 496
Frost-bite, 576
Fruit and the complexion, 453 ; bottling of, 228,
Girls, accomplishments for, 491 ; Christian names,
meaning of, 712
Glass for table, 237, 238 ; washing of, 75
Glaze, how to make, 119
Gloves, 309, 310 ; baby's, 473 ; how to keep clean,
305 ; how to mend, 417 ; how to wash, 295
728
INDEX
Glycerine enema, 5fi2
Goffering of linen, 284
Golf, 547
Goloshes, 310
Goose, how to serve, 247 ; roast, 177
Governess, the, 492, 619
Gowns, evening, 305 ; for balls, 304
Grafting in repairing garments, 410
Grass plota, 581
Green-fly, destruction of, 601
Groceries, ordering of, 106 ; storing of, 104
Grubs, destruction of, 602
Gruel, oatmeal, 559
Guest, etiquette of, 335
Gum-boil, 570
Gymnastics, teaohing of, 621 ; value of, 491
HAEMORRHOIDS, 571
Hair brushes, choice of, 456
Hair, care of patient's, 554 ; care of the, 456 ;
dyeing the, 458 ; how to comb the, 456 ; how
to dreae the, 459 : how to strengthen growth,
458 ; how to wash the, 457 ; lotions, 458 ;
use of false, 458 ; waving and curling of the,
459
Hands, care of the, 461 ; how to dry the, 461 ;
how to keep clean, 461
Hare, jugged, 179
Hares, how to choose, 113
Hat, a river or country, 440 ; baby boy's, 445 ;
for little girl, 445
Hats, 308 ; care of, 314 ; care of men's, 316 ;
how to clean felt, 318 ; straw, 318, 442, 443 ;
straw, how to cover brim, 443 ; straw,
trimming of, 443
Headache, 670
Head-hnings, 432
Health and cleanliness, 447 ; and diet, 452 ;
and exercise, 449 ; and food, 452 ; how to
retain, 447 ; importance of good, 447 ; in-
fluence on appearance, 447 ; visitors, 637
Heartburn, 468, 670
Height of men and women, relative, 714
Hemming of garments, 389
Hem-stitching, 399
Hen-house, the, 517
Hens, keeping of, 617
Herbs, storage of, 102
Herring-boning, 397
Hiccough, 570
Hieroglyphics, game of, 533
Hire-purchase system, the, 383
Hoarseness, 570
Hockey, rules for game, 545
Holiday abroad, the, 501 ; the annual, 498 ; the
woman worker's, 500 ; dress for, 502 ; in the
country, 501 ; on the continent, 502 ; the
children's, 499 ; the question of, 498, 500
Holland, how to wash, 294
Home nursing, 548-579
Home workers, handicrafts for, 689
Honeysuckles, 598
Hooks, how to fasten, 401
Horticulture, schools of, 047 ; women in, 647-
657
Hospital nursing, 641
Hospitals, dental, 640 ; for gentlewomen, 701 ;
list of chief London, 642 ; hst of lying-in,
646
Hostess, etiquette of, 336
Hotch-potch, 121
Hotels, continental, 503
Hot-water pipes, 12 ; supply, 7
House, the, 1
House-agent's commission, 383 ; women as, 667
House, aspect of, 5 ; decoration, 12, 13, 14, 667 ;
duty, 382 ; furnished, 381 ; general condition
of, 12 ; heating of, 10 ; lease of, 1 ; locality
for, 2 ; on shutting up a, 85 ; purchase of, 1 ;
site, 3
Lace, cleaning of, 317 ; how to wash, 290 ; quills.
Lace-making, 690
Lady ccoks, 661 ; salaries of, 661 ; servants,
660
Lady's maid, the, 54
Lamb cutlets, 172
Lamb, how to choose, 107 ; how to serve, 246 ;
use of different joints, 110
Lamb's fry, 172
Lamps, care of, 77 ; gas, 10 ; oil, 10
Land tax, 383
Landings, furnishing of, 25, 26
Landlord and tenant, law of, 378
Landscape gardening, 649
Languages, teaching of foreign, 618
Larder, the, 99 ; economy in, 101
Laundry -maid, the, 55
Laundry manageress, 662 ; utensils, 272-275 ;
price list of, 276 ; work, guide to, 271-300 •
teaching of, 659 ; training in, 662 '
Lavatory, cleaning of, 61
Lawn tennis, 542
Layette, the, 470 ; on making the, 471
Leather work, 690
Leases, 379
Lecturers, women as, 619
Ledger, the, 364
Leeks, how to cook, 153
Legal guide, 362-386 ; notes, 374
Lentils, how to cook, 154
Letter-writirg, the art of, 353
Letters, business, 353 ; of condolence, 351 : of
introduction, 329
Letting a fximished house, 40
" Lever embossing press," 354
Liabihty, husband's, 374
Marriage by banns, 345; by ordinary Ucence,
346 ; by registrar, 346 ; by special hcenoe,
346 ; expenses, 347 ; fees, 346 ; forms of,
345 ; settlement, 374 ; in Scotland, 346
Marzipan potatoes, how to make, 674
Massage, 450, 451 ; for scalp, 457 ; in nurse's
work, 646
Matrons, 662
Matting, Indian, cleaning of, 67
Mattresses, care of, 68 ; covers, 268 ; how to
remake wool, 608
Mayors, how to address, 355
Meat, boiling of, 166 ; braising of, 166 ; broil-
ing or griUing, 167 ; calendar, 108 ; dishes,
165-183; frozen. 111; frying of, 166; how
to bake or roast, 165 ; how to choose, 107 ;
how to glaze, 119 ; scallops, 180 ; steaming of,
166 ; stewing of, 167 ; treatment of, 100 ;
use of different joints, 108; \vith pastrv.
181-183 ''
Medical aid societies, 701 ; degrees open to
women, 634 ; missionaries, 637 ; school in-
spectors, 637
Medicine as a profession, 633-646 ; chest, 679 ;
glasses, 563
730
INDEX
Medicines, 863, 064
Mending and sewing (plain), 387-418 ; the art
of, 407
Mental nursing, 644
Menu, drawing up a, 243
Metal goods, cleaning of, 75
Metal work, 689 ; and enamelling, training for,
periods of, 351
Mouth, care of child's, 481
Muffs, 443 ; black satin and fur, 444 ; fashions
in, 443
Mushrooms, 154
Music, Royal Academy of, 683 ; Royal College
of, 683 ; teachers of, 683 ; training in, 683
Musical chairs, game of, 530
Musical profession, the, 682
Muslin, how to mend, 418 ; how to wash, 289
Mutton cutlets, 171
Mutton, how to choose, 107 ; how to serve, 246 ;
roast shoulder, 170; scrambled, 180; use of
difierent joints, 110
Naits, care of child's, 481 ; care of finger, 461 ;
how to manicure the, 462
Name divinations, game of, 534
Napkins, 472
Narcissi, 588
Nasturtiums, 685
Nature study, teewjhers of, 651
Navy, how to address officers of, 355 ; nurses in
the, 643
Neck, cure of stiff, 573 ; how to whiten, 450 ;
massage of, 450
Needlework, 690
Net, how to wash, 291
Neuralgia, 871
Night-dress, how to iron a. 287
Nobihty, how to address, 354
Non-political associations, women's, 699
Nose bleeding, 576 ; foreign body in, 576
Note-paper, choice of, 354 ; how to stamp, 354
Notice, on giving, 381
Nurse, the, 475, 476, 549 ; and night duty, 650 ;
children's, 661 ; choice and qualifications,
476 ; co-operation, 645 ; day's work, 555 ;
dress of, 549 ; duties of, 476 ; in army, 643 ;
in colonies, 646 ; in infirmaries, 643 ; in
navy, 643 ; monthly, 473 ; professional, 650 ;
training of hospital, 641 ; village, 646
Nursery, the, 474, 475
Nursery College, Hampstead, 477
Nursery cupboard, 474
Nursery, fiumiture of, 474 ; recipes, 478 ; rusk,
479 ; the night, 476
Nursing as a profession, 633-646 ; district, 646 ;
Peltry, genoise, 217 ; flaky, 163 ; how to make,
162; puff, 1(53 ; rovigh -puff, 164 ; short crust,
164 ; suet, 164 ; to make patty cases, 166
Patches, various kinds of, 413, 414
Patching, method of, 412
Patient, care of the, 551 ; food for, 556 ; how to
feed helpless, 557 ; treatment for insensible,
554 ; hau-, care of, 554 ; teeth, care of, 553 ;
toilet, the, 653
INDEX
731
Patterns for dressmaking, 419, 426 ; illustrations
of, 426, 427
Patties, sweetbread, 183
Paying-in book, the, 367
Peas, green, how to cook, 153 ; sweet, 688
Pease pudding, 155
Pelargoniums, 596
Pen, play, 474
Pensions, continental, 603
Peppermint creams, how to make, 674 ; cushions,
how to make, 674
Persons of rank, how to address, 354
Pests, extermination of, 78
Pets, home, 607-576
Petticoats, 307 ; how to wash cotton, 294 ; the
mince, 198
Pigeon for invalids, 659
Pigeons, how to choose, 112
Pilches, 472
Piles, 671
Pillow shams, 269 ; slips, 258 ; how to remake
feather, 608
Pinafores, washing of, 298
Pipes, burst, 607
Piping, method of, 394
Plackets, 424
Plants for decoration, 253 ; for rooms, 699 ; for
suburban garden, 681 ; for windows, 599
Play, the pastoral, 627
Play-pen, 474
Plays, choice of, 626 ; for " grown-ups," 527
Pleating, method of, 404 ; various kinds of, 404,
405
Pneumatic gas switch, 9
Poisoning, cases of, 677
Poisons, kinds of, 577
Political associations, 699
Politics, women in, 696
Poor Law inspectors, 680
Poppies, 586
Pork cutlets, 172
Pork, how to choose, 107 ; bow to serve, 247 ;
use of different joints. 111
Postage, inland rates of, 714 ; foreign and
colonial, 715
Postal information, 714 ; orders, 717
Poster designing, 687
Post-office clerks, 678 ; employment in, 678 ;
savings bank, 369
Potato chips, 166 ; fritter, 156 ; pie (sweet), 168
Potatoes, now to steam, 155 ; mashed, 156 ;
mustard, 565
Poultices, 666, 666
Poultry, breeding of, 620 ; calendar of same in
season, 113 ; common ailments, 622, 623 ;
cooking of, 100 ; fattening of, 521 ; food,
618, 519; how to buy, 519; how to carve,
247; how to choose, 112; how to feed, 518,
619 ; how to kill, 622 ; keeping, 517-523 ;
keeping for women, 656 ; runs for, 618 ;
varieties of, 520
Sick-room, the, 548, 549 ; ventilation of, 648
Sickness, morning, 468
Silk, how to mend, 417 ; how to wash, 292
Silver, care of, 74, 75 ; for table, 236
Sinks, cleaning of kitchen, 94
Sitting-room, cleaning of, 59
Size, how to make, 605
Skating carnival, roller, 542
Skin and complexion, the, 448
Skin food, use of, 450
Skirts, how to make, 422, 423
Slang, avoidance of, 352
Sleep, for children, 481 ; need of, 453 ; periods
of, 453
Sleeplessness, 468, 572
Sleep-walking, 485
Slops, emptying of, 68
Slugs, destruction of, 602
Smocks, washing of, 299
Snowshoes, 310
Soap for laundry work, 275
Soap-jeUy, how to make, 287
Social guide, 325-361 ; reporting, 625 ; work,
691 ; training for, 691
Societies and institutions, women's, 699
Society editor, 625
Socks, washing of, 288
Soda for washing, 275
Soil for shrubs, 583
Soils, 3
Stitches, fancy, 397 ; hints on simple, 388
Stitching, 390
Stock, how to make, 117
Stock-pou, the, 118
Stocking web tissue, 410
Stockings, 311 ; children's, 497 ; the mending
of, 408 ; washing of, 288
Stocks, 586
Stones, symbolism of precious, 312
" Stoppeur," the, 417
Store indicator, 103
Store-room, arrangements of, 102
Stoting, the use of, 416
Stove, how to black-lead, 92
Stoves, 11 ; care of, 77 ; cooking with oil, 97 ;
Tickets, combined coupon, 502 ; season, 503
Tidings, game of, 532
Tie, how to wash gentleman's, 292
Time, standard, 719
Tips after sea voyages, 503 ; subject of, 336, 337
Toe nails, care of, 464
Tof?ee, how to make Russian, 674
Toilet, the, 447-465 ; child's, 479 ; patient's, 653
Toilet covers, 260
Tomatoes, how to cook, 158
Tongue, boiled, 170
Tonsilitis, 572
Tools for garden, 602, 603 ; for house, 604
Toothache, 468, 573
Tooth powder, 464
Toques, flower, 441 ; fur, 442
Tourists, advice to, 501
Tours, general hints on, 303
Towels, 260, 264 ; kitchen, 264
Travel, 498-506 ; foreign, as an educator, 504 ;
general hints on, 503 ; luggage in, 504
Trays, Japanese, cleaning of, 72
Trees for garden, 583
Trimmings, 426 ; sewing of, 439
Tripe with tomatoes, 170
Trouser press, 315
Trousseau, the bridal, 321 ; estimates of coat of,
322
Trunk, how to pack a, 506
Tubs, washing, 272
Tucking, method of, 393
Tulips, 589
Tunic, boy's, 496
" Turban " coiffure, the, 460
Turkey, how to choose, 112 ; how to serve, 247 ;
roivst, ITS
Turnips, how to cook, 159
734
INDEX
Turpentine for laundry work, 276
Tweed cloth, bow to mend, 416
Type, sizes of, 711
Typewriting ofifioe, opening a, 675 ; price list in,
676 ; prospects in, 675 ; training in, 675
Typist, the shorthand, 666 ; in civU service, 680
Ulcbrs, how to cure child's, 484
Umbrellas, care of, 314
Underdo tiling, 306
Underskirts, 307
University education, 493, 494
Upholstery, 604-614
Vaccikation, 376
Valet, the, 65
Varicose veins, 573
Vases, for table decoration, 284
Veal and ham cutlets, 174 ; cream, 173 ; for
invaUds, 558 ; galatine of, 175 ; how to
choose, 108 ; how to serve, 247 ; jellied, 173 ;
kidney, 174 ; oUves, 173 ; steamed, 173 ; use
of different joints, 109
Vegetable " cookers," 148 ; marrow, 159
Vegetables and salads, 147-162 ; calendar of
same in season, 115 ; cooking of, 148 ;
curried, 151 ; how to choose, 114 ; preparation
of, 148 ; storage of, 101
Vegetarianism, 148
Veils, 309, 446 ; various kinds, 446
Veins, varicose, 468, 573
Velvet, how to raise the pile, 318 ; use of,
434
Velveteen, how to wash, 289
Venison, how to choose, 108 ; use of different
349
Whipping of garments, 396
Whist drives, 542
Whitewash, how to make, 605
Wife as husband's agent, 376
Will, how to make a, 376 ; in Scotland, 375
Window-boxes, 600
Windows, cleaning of, 69
Wines, care of, 104, 105 ; how to serve, 248
Wiring (in millinery), 437
Wizard photography, 535
Women, legal position of married, 375
Wood, aa fuel, 99 ; carving, 690
Wool mattress, how to remake, 608
Woollen articles, how to wash, 287 ; clothing,
461
Work-basket, the, 387
Workmen's Compensation Act, 370
Worms, cure for, 485 ; in pots, destruction of,
602
Worry, 468
Wounds, 578
Wraps, evening, 305
Wringer, the, 272
Wrinkles, cause of, 448
Writer, the special, 627
YoKM frock, tho, 496
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